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O OCTOBER 2025

FOOD | TRAVEL | WELLBEING OCTOBER 2025

WARM AND COSY

Comforting dishes for cooler days

ESCAPE TO THE COUNTRY

Discover our luxe rural retreats

HEALTHY BALANCE Eat your way to a better menopause

GBP £6.25

FOOD | TRAVEL | WELLBEING

CAN $15 AUS $15.50

CHICKEN TAGINE, MARMALADE UPSIDE DOWN CAKE, PANEER AND BROCCOLI DHAL BOWL, SPICED BAKED QUINCE WITH WALNUT CRUMBLE, HALLOUMI WITH HONEY ROASTED GRAPES AND THYME

Melting moments

Cheesy hasselback tartiflette with pickle salad

+ EDD KIMBER’S CARAMEL APPLE CHEESECAKE BARS + SMOKY MASALA HALIBUT ROAST DUCK AND POMEGRANATE SALAD + STICKY CHILLI MARMALADE RIBS

Welcome

COOK THE COVER Find the recipe on page 16

A creamy, cheese bake with all the flavours of a classic tartiflette, served with a zingy pickle salad to cut through the richness.

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRIS TERRY, GETTY IMAGES

ith autumn in full swing I’m feeling the pull towards more spicy, comforting food and we have some real winners in this issue, from a smoky masala fish curry to meltingly tender sticky chilli pork ribs. There are also some gorgeous entertaining dishes from the queen of clever spicing, Sabrina Ghayour, including a stunning roast duck and pomegranate salad. If you’re looking for travel inspo there’s plenty to be found, from a look at one of the foodiest neighbourhoods in Kuala Lumpur to some luxe rural retreats for a relaxing escape, including a Catalonian vineyard and a chic French countryside bolthole. Menopause and mid-life health has never been more on the agenda, and this month campaigner and author Mariella Frostrup is sharing her sage practical advice for using diet and lifestyle changes to improve our experience, as well as some delicious recipes to try from chef Belles Berry.

Janine Ratcliffe, deputy magazines editor @Omagazine @missj9

HOW TO CONTACT US EDITORIAL TEAM OF THE YEAR O magazine and Good Food

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OCTOBER contents

inspiration

The hot list Exciting foodie finds in Hastings, a tool for the perfect smashburger and a crispy rice paper pancake recipe.

Kitchen shelf Our pick of this month’s

On the cover Make a comforting Cook in season Dishes to celebrate

Middle Eastern promise Sabrina Ghayour’s Persian-inspired recipes.

3 ways with marmalade This bittersweet spread is a true multitasker in the kitchen.

10 things I love about Tuscany Chef Masha Rener shares the food and culture that make this region so special.

Cook like a local Try the flavours of Azerbaijan from the comfort of your home.

Bolthole breaks Rural retreats in O guide to Sheffield The best places to eat and drink in the lively food scene of this South Yorkshire city.

Wine 101 Our expert delves into the high quality wines of Switzerland.

Île-de-France, Catalonia and Devon.

Signature dishes Learn about Moroccan cooking with Nargisse Benkabbou.

Easy wins Use ready-made dhal as a base for this satisfying paneer and broccoli dish.

discover

grapes, halibut, swede and quince.

Wellbeing Advice on what to eat to tackle

The measure Celebrate Irish whiskies and new-wave wine bars.

symptoms of the menopause.

hasselback tartiflette with pickle salad.

bars elevated with autumnal spices.

new must-try food and drink products.

cook

Modern baking Edd Kimber’s cheesecake

& don’t miss 14

Subscription offer Treat yourself or a loved one to an O magazine subscription and get your first five issues for just £5.

Neighbourhood spotlight Discover Petaling Street, the historic Chinatown of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Reader offer Ring in the New Year or

Pro vs punter Our critic and a reader try Italian-Japanese fusion fare at a new east London restaurant.

Reader offer Discover southern Europe.

Coming next month What’s in store for

celebrate Christmas on a Rhine cruise.

your November issue.

RECIPE INDEX

Starters, sides and drinks 78 Amaretto old fashioned 88 Azeri tomato salad 22 Cumin spiced swede and gouda pasties 91 Dovga Azeri (warm yogurt soup) 9 Gochujang prawn toast rice paper pancakes 28 Mercimek köftesi

Mains Meat 16 Hasselback tartiflette with pickle salad 34 Slow-roasted lamb shoulder 30 Spiced beef and tomato polow 44 Sticky chilli marmalade ribs

Birds 36 Chicken tagine with olives and preserved lemon 26 Duck and pomegranate salad with honey pomegranate sauce

Vegetables 18 Halloumi with honey roasted grapes and thyme 55 Harmonious cannellini bean one-pot 40 Moroccan couscous 98 Paneer and broccoli dhal bowl 52 Ras el hanout rice salad with orange and cumin dressing 93 Spinach chigirtma (Azeri spinach and eggs) 53 Sweet-and-sour slaw with fig and tamarind sauce

Breakfast, bakes and puddings 32 Bokaj 48 Caramelised apple and brown butter cheesecake bars 56 Lemon cheesecake with macadamia nut crust 46 Marmalade and ginger fool 42 Marmalade upside down cake 24 Spiced baked quince with walnut crumble

Fish and seafood

bringing you the best Anna Ansari Explore the varied flavours of Azeri cuisine at home (p88).

Sabrina Ghayour

A Persian-inspired menu perfect for entertaining (p26).

Nargisse Benkabbou

Quintessential Moroccan dishes to add to your repertoire (p34).

38 Batata mchermla with prawns (potatoes, greens and prawn stew) 20 Halibut with smoky masala sauce

VIDEO EXTRA

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Do something special today and leave a gift in your Will Patients like Ezra at Great Ormond Street Hospital are looking for someone special to help give them the best chance and the best childhood possible.

A gift in your Will could be the special gift that helps give seriously ill children the chance to live their life to the fullest

Ezra, aged eight.

Request your free Gifts In Wills Guide

Call 020 3841 3131

Alternatively, go to gosh.org/freewill or scan the QR code Great Ormond Street Hospital Children’s Charity. Registered charity no. 1160024.

THE HOT LIST with Gurdeep Loyal

Our trends expert shares his foodie finds in Hastings and St Leonards, a continent-spanning cookbook and a clever way to cook with rice paper

PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY

SPOTLIGHT

Gochujang prawn toast rice paper pancakes Rice paper sheets are paper-thin transparent wraps traditionally made from rice, tapioca and water. What’s unique about them is that they can be both supple and chewy, or shatteringly crispy depending on how you use them. For Thuy Diem Pham (@chef_thuy_pham) – chef and author of The Little Viet Kitchen and Vietnamese Made Easy – they are a staple of her cooking. “As a Vietnamese, rice paper isn’t just something I use often, it’s something I adore,” she tells me. “It’s incredibly versatile: a light, stretchy sheet that transforms into goi cuon (summer rolls), bánh cuon (steamed rice rolls), cha giò (fried spring rolls), dumplings or even crispy Vietnamese pizza on the BBQ!” When using it for rolls, Thuy has an expert trick: “Don’t use warm water to wet the paper as it softens too fast and you lose control. Use cold water instead. The key is to understand rice paper so you can control it, know when it’s soft, when it’s still firm and when it’s perfectly elastic. When it’s hydrated just right it’s much stronger than you’d expect. When rolling, keep it snug and airtight, and push out the air so the fillings don’t slide out mid-bite.” This recipe takes rice paper in the other textural direction, crisped up into a pancake with a spicy sesame prawn filling. You could also turn this recipe into crispy rolls if you like by blooming the rice paper in water, rolling up the prawn filling into mini cigars and then deep-frying.

Gochujang prawn toast rice paper pancakes SERVES 4-6 | PREP 5 MINS COOK 10 MINS | EASY 480g raw prawns 1 tbsp gochujang, plus extra to serve 2 tsp rice vinegar 2 tsp toasted sesame oil 2 large spring onions, chopped, plus extra to garnish 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tsp ginger, grated 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp fish sauce 1 tbsp cornflour vegetable oil, for frying 6 sheets of 22cm rice paper circles 4 tbsp toasted sesame seeds soy sauce, tamarind ketchup or dipping sauce, to serve

1 Put the prawns, gochujang, vinegar, sesame oil, spring onions, garlic, ginger, soy, fish sauce and cornflour in a food processor, along with a good pinch of sugar and a pinch of salt. Blitz on medium speed for 1-2 mins until it forms a smooth paste, scraping down the sides halfway through. It should be thick and spreadable – add another 1-2 tbsp cornflour if it’s too thin. 2 Heat 1cm depth of vegetable oil in a frying pan big enough to fit one rice paper circle. Take one sheet of rice paper, then spread on an even 1/2cm layer of the prawn mixture all over the surface. Put another sheet of rice paper on top and press down so you have a compacted sandwich with the filling spreading out right to the edges. 3 Shallow fry the pancake for 2-3 mins on each side, flipping over regularly so it doesn’t burn. When crispy on both sides and cooked through in the middle, put on a board then sprinkle over sesame seeds, chopped spring onions and a drizzle of extra gochujang if you like. Repeat with the rest of the prawn mixture and rice paper sheets. 4 Use a knife to slice into squares and eat immediately while still crispy. Dip into either soy sauce, tamarind ketchup or a simple dipping sauce made by mixing soy sauce, gochujang and rice vinegar. If they are sitting around for a while they can go soggy so revive them in an air fryer or oven for a few minutes to crisp them up again. PER SERVING (6) 189 kcals | fat 11G | saturates 1G carbs 13G | sugars 2G | fibre 1G | protein 10G | salt 1.6G

Homeware The Chef’s Press

Designed by San Francisco chef Bruce Hill, The Chef’s Press is available in 8oz, 13oz or 19oz weights and is the perfect tool for giving your food contact with a hot surface. It’s vented to allow steam to escape and has a raised handle for easy pressing and lifting. It can be used to smash down burgers or press down steaks, to submerge ingredients into a marinade or to make perfect grilled cheese sandwiches. It also works wonders with vegetables like aubergines, courgettes and cauliflower steaks. Available from boroughkitchen.com and souschef.co.uk.

Foodie destination

Cookbook of the month Silk Roads by Anna Ansari Iranian-American food writer Anna Ansari’s debut cookbook is an evocative personal odyssey along the world’s most celebrated trade routes connecting East Asia with Western Europe. It’s filled with poignant essays (including one on eating yogurt to live to 100!), dreamy food photography and rich history exploring the connections between food, trade and travel. There are 90 unique recipes including a punchy Da Pan Ji Uyghur big plate chicken with sichuan peppercorns, dill-infused noodles from western Uzbekistan, no-waste Iranian beetroot borani, Georgian BBQ pork with pomegranate and tarragon, and spiced walnut blondies. A unique culinary insight into the people, traditions and ingredients that have travelled through history from Baku to Beijing. On sale 9 October from DK. @thisplacetastesdelicious Turn to p88 to try out some of Anna’s recipes.

GOING UP YoYo Laos Sauce These small-batch chilli sauces celebrate the diverse cuisine of Laos. The all-natural Ginger Chilli Sauce is balanced with ginger, lime and coconut sugar, while the Luang Prabang Red Hot Sauce packs a serious punch. Available at Booths and Selfridges.

GOING DOWN

Prosecco Overly sweet, very fizzy proseccos are being increasingly snubbed for complex, traditionally made cavas and crémant. Try the Llopart Brut at Parrillan in Borough Yards, or the range of French sparkling wines at Soho’s Parisianinspired bar Marjorie’s.

The seaside town of Hastings and nearby St Leonards are quickly building a reputation for their many vintage stores, vibrant art scenes and culinary openings. Modern European restaurant Coquina (coquinarestaurant.co.uk) at the Hastings Contemporary gallery overlooks the sea, showcasing the very best produce the south coast has to offer. The menu includes porcini mushroom and tarragon croquetas, and a salami plate with cornichons using cured meats from biodynamic-organic Haye Farm in Devon. Goat Ledge (goatledge.com) is a vibrant seafood shack serving up fresh baps filled with fried local plaice, pickled onions and aïoli. The indoor street food market Heist (heistmarket.com) has a range of traders like Bangkok Delivery Boy Thai Food, Cutie Pies Detroit Style Pizza and The Clam which serves up delicious cod tacos. And The Royal (theroyalstleonards.co.uk) is a Bib Gourmand awarded gastro pub known for its Sunday roasts and inventive dishes like pork belly, congee, spring onion, cabbage and coriander.

GURDEEP LOYAL IS A FOOD AND DRINK TRENDS SPECIALIST WHO BUILT HIS CAREER AT HARRODS FOOD HALLS, INNOCENT DRINKS AND M&S FOOD. HE IS ALSO A FOOD, RECIPE AND TRAVEL WRITER. FIND MORE RECIPES IN GURD’S BOOKS FLAVOUR HEROES AND MOTHER TONGUE. @GURD_LOYAL

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Hastings and St Leonards

Why settle for ordinary when you can have extraordinary? Maldon Salt - creating Perfect Pyramid ﬂakes since 1882

Can you ﬁnd the Perfect Pyramid? Scan the QR code to ﬁnd out more. #PerfectPyramid

KITCHEN SHELF Our pick of the month’s best new food and drink products

BUTTER BIKE RUGGED PEANUT BUTTER

THE BEEFY BOYS SMALL DIY BOX

With a deep, complex flavour and satisfying crunch this peanut butter was deservedly upgraded to three stars in the 2025 Great Taste Awards. The rich taste is balanced by Cornish sea salt. £5.75/285g, butterbike.co.uk

These creamy buttons are perfect for sharing (or not!). £3.50/120g, montezumas.co.uk

BELAZU NOCELLARA OLIVES

JACK’S CREEK AUSTRALIAN WAGYU

This unpasteurised fresh olive range includes Nocellara del Belice, a bright green early harvest olive; a Mediterranean olive mixed with peppers, garlic and chilli; and an antipasti mixed with cheese, basil and sun-dried tomatoes. £4, Tesco and ocado.com

PADDY & SCOTT’S COFFEE

Paddy & Scott’s makes a positive impact on coffee-growing communities by working directly with farmers. Its Mount Kenya blend is light and bright, with notes of dark chocolate and honey. £8.99/250g, paddyandscotts.shop

MONTEZUMA’S 35% GIANT MILK CHOCOLATE BUTTONS

Australia is the world’s largest exporter of luxurious, intensely marbled wagyu beef. Prime steaks are now available in the UK so you can try the melt-in-the-mouth tenderness for yourself. From £17/200g rump steak to £29/200g fillet steak, ocado.com

CASTLE DAIRIES SALTED BUTTER

A rich, creamy Welsh butter from award-winning Caerphilly butter maker Castle Dairies – it’s made with pure Halen Môn sea salt, handharvested from the waters around the Isle of Anglesey. £3.25/250g, Waitrose & Partners

The restaurant has released kits so you can recreate its cult burgers at home using the same seasonings, sauces, cheese, buns and patties, plus step-by-step instructions for the best build. £32.99/four burgers, thebeefyboys.com

LUMBERJAXE MOONSHINE MANGO SAUCE Sweet mango meets spicy chilli, blending tanginess with just the right amount of heat. Great on eggs, chicken, pork, seafood and more. £5/250g, lumberjaxefoodcompany.co.uk

STINKING BISHOP MINI

Stinking by name, not by nature, this gift-sized version of the famous cheese (named for the Stinking Bishop pear) is mellow and complex, with umami meatiness. Delicious alongside perry. £7.50/250g, pongcheese.co.uk

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cook Usher in autumn with an eyecatching marmalade upside-down cake, simple yet impressive Persian and Moroccan sharing dishes, and our guide to eating for a better menopause PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY

ON THE COVER An indulgent, comforting sharing dish perfect for an early autumn get-together Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph ANT DUNCAN

Hasselback tartiflette with pickle salad SERVES 2-3 | PREP 20 MINS COOK 1 HR | EASY | GF 1kg small/medium waxy potatoes (such as Charlotte) olive oil 300ml double cream 2 garlic cloves, peeled and halved 75g smoked pancetta lardons 200g taleggio, rind trimmed and cut into small chunks PICKLE SALAD 1 tsp dijon mustard 4 tbsp diced cornichons or gherkins 2 tbsp sliced pink pickled onions baby leaves parsley leaves chives

A creamy, cheesy bake with all the flavours of a classic tartiflette. The zingy pickle salad cuts through the richness. 1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. To hasselback the potatoes put each one between the handles of two wooden spoons then cut down at intervals – the handles will stop the knife cutting all the way through. 2 Put the potatoes in a baking dish big enough that they will fit snugly. Brush all over with oil and season. Cook for 35-40 mins or until just tender. 3 Put the cream in a small pan with the garlic and some seasoning. Bring to a simmer, cook for 5 mins, then turn off the heat and leave to infuse. 4 Cook the pancetta in a non-stick frying pan until crisp. Stir into the cream. 5 Take the potatoes out of the oven and pour over the cream, discarding the garlic cloves. 6 Scatter over the cheese then put back in the oven for 20-25 mins or until bubbling and lightly golden. 7 To make the salad whisk together the mustard, 1 tbsp of olive oil and 1 tbsp of pickle juice, and season. Put the cornichons, onions, leaves and chives in a bowl then drizzle over the dressing and toss together. Serve with the tartiflette. PER SERVING (3) 1106 kcals | fat 83G | saturates 48G | carbs 60G sugars 9G | fibre 8G | protein 26G | salt 2.8G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY

COOK IN SEASON Make the most of grapes, halibut, swede and quince this month Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs MOWIE KAY

Halloumi with honey roasted grapes and thyme SERVES 2-3 | PREP 5 MINS COOK 15 MINS | EASY | V 200g black or red grapes (or a mixture) 2 tsp sherry vinegar 2 tsp olive oil 1 tbsp honey pinch of chilli flakes 2 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 250g halloumi, sliced 2 handfuls of rocket flatbreads, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the grapes in a small baking dish and drizzle with the vinegar, oil and honey. Sprinkle over the chilli flakes and thyme, and toss everything together. 2 Roast for 15-20 mins until the grapes just start to burst. Meanwhile, fry the halloumi slices in a dry non-stick pan until golden on both sides. 3 Arrange the rocket on a small platter, top with the halloumi and spoon over the grapes and any juices from the dish. Serve with flatbreads. PER SERVING (3) 324 kcals | fat 20G | saturates 13G carbs 17G | sugars 17G | fibre 1G | protein 19G | salt 2.3G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLING: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

Halibut with smoky masala sauce SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 50 MINS | EASY

This sauce freezes really well so make a double batch if you like then keep the rest for another time. It’s also great with chicken, prawns and paneer.

4 chunky skinless halibut fillets SMOKY MASALA SAUCE 2 tbsp rapeseed or groundnut oil 3 cardamom pods, crushed 3 cloves 2 onions, chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp ginger, finely grated 1 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder ½ tsp smoked paprika ¼-½ tsp smoked sea salt 4 ripe tomatoes, chopped 1 tbsp tomato purée TO SERVE natural yogurt handful of coriander ½ small red onion, sliced ½ red chilli, sliced cooked rice or bread

1 To make the sauce, heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat and cook the cardamom pods and cloves for 2 mins, then add the onions and cook gently for 20 mins until softened. Add the garlic and ginger, and cook for a few minutes until fragrant. Stir in the spices and cook for 1 min until fragrant. 2 Tip in the tomatoes and tomato purée, and cook, stirring, until the tomatoes have broken down and thickened. 3 Add 200ml of water, put on a lid and simmer for 20 mins. Use a stick blender to blitz the sauce – you can make it really smooth or leave some texture. Taste and season with the smoked salt. Nestle in the fish and spoon over the sauce then cook gently, covered, for 7-8 mins until just flaking. Drizzle with a little yogurt, then scatter with coriander, red onion and chilli. Serve with rice or bread. 4 PER SERVING 288 kcals | fat 13G | saturates 3G carbs 12G | sugars 9G | fibre 4G | protein 29G | salt 0.7G

Cumin spiced swede and gouda pasties MAKES 4 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 30 MINS EASY | V

Swede makes a great filling for a hearty veggie pasty, while cumin seeds add a lovely warmth and fragrance.

150g swede, peeled 100g potatoes, peeled 1 sheet of all-butter shortcrust pastry ½ onion, finely chopped ½ tsp cumin seeds, plus extra for the top pinch of chilli flakes (optional) 75g gouda, grated, plus extra for the top 1 egg, beaten, to glaze

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cut the swede and potatoes into 2cm cubes. Cut the pastry into quarters. Toss together the veg, onion, cumin, chilli (if using), some salt and lots of black pepper, then toss through the cheese. 2 Divide the mixture between the four pastry squares, making a mound slightly off centre on each square. Brush the edges with egg then fold over the pastry to seal in the fillings and crimp. Glaze all over with egg then chill for 10 mins. Glaze again then poke a hole in the pastry and sprinkle with a bit more cheese and a few cumin seeds. 3 Put on a lined baking sheet and bake for 15 mins then turn down the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and bake for 10-15 mins until deep golden. Serve warm. PER SERVING 499 kcals | fat 32G | saturates 14G carbs 38G | sugars 3G | fibre 5G | protein 12G | salt 1G

Spiced baked quince with walnut crumble SERVES 6 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 2 HRS 30 MINS | EASY 3 quinces /2 lemon 100g honey 100g brown sugar 2 star anise 3 cloves ½ cinnamon stick greek yogurt, to serve CRUMBLE 150g plain flour 75g salted butter, chilled and diced 50g brown sugar 50g walnuts, chopped

Quince benefits from long, slow cooking to reach perfect tenderness and sweetness.

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Scrub the quinces then quarter each one. Rub the flesh with the lemon to stop them discolouring. 2 Put the honey, sugar, spices and 400ml of water in a pan. Stir to combine then heat gently until simmering. Simmer for 5 mins. 3 Put the quince flesh-side down in a baking dish that will fit the quarters snugly. Pour over the syrup and cover with foil. Bake for 1 hr 30 mins-1 hr 45 mins until the fruit is pink and tender. 4 Meanwhile, make the crumble by tipping the flour and butter into a bowl. Use your fingertips to rub together until they form a rough crumble. Stir in the sugar, walnuts and a pinch of salt. Tip onto a baking tray lined with baking paper. 5 Remove the foil from the quinces, flip them over so they are flesh-side up, spoon some syrup over them and put back in the oven at 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Put the crumble mixture on a separate oven shelf. Cook for 30 mins until the quince has coloured a little and the crumble is golden. 6 To serve, put some pieces of quince on a plate. Spoon over some yogurt, sprinkle with crumble and spoon over any extra syrup. PER SERVING 419 kcals | fat 16G | saturates 7G carbs 62G | sugars 37G | fibre 2G | protein 4G | salt 0.3G

MIDDLE EASTERN PROMISE Try one of Sabrina Ghayour’s flavour-packed, Persian-inspired entertaining recipes Recipes SABRINA GHAYOUR Photographs KRIS KIRKHAM

Duck and pomegranate salad with honey pomegranate sauce SERVES 2-4 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | EASY | GF 2 duck legs 3 spring onions 100g mixed salad leaves 100g pack of pomegranate seeds, juice from the pack reserved for the dressing handful of mint leaves, rolled up tightly and thinly sliced into ribbons sea salt flakes DRESSING 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses 2 tsp honey 2 tbsp olive oil

During the early 2000s in London you’d be hard pushed to find a trendy restaurant that didn’t have a version of this salad on its menu. Duck legs are still relatively affordable, even if for a special occasion, and the amount of duck you get from two legs is just perfect for this recipe. The ‘quackling’ (as Nigella once called it), or crispy duck skin, is an essential and rather sensational addition. 1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Line a small baking tray with baking paper and line a plate with a double layer of kitchen paper. 2 Put the duck legs on the lined tray, season the skins with salt and pepper, then roast for 1 hr. 3 Meanwhile, cut the white parts of the spring onions into small batons, then slice very thinly into matchsticks. Put in cold water. Thinly slice the remaining green parts. 4 Remove the duck legs from the tray, leaving them on the baking paper. Increase the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9. Line the baking tray with fresh baking paper. 5 Carefully remove the skin from the duck without breaking it (use a knife to help you release it from the underside), put on the lined tray and roast for 10 mins until extra crispy. Remove the duck skin and transfer to the paper-lined plate to drain. 6 Mix the dressing ingredients in a small bowl along with the juice from the pomegranates, then season. Shred the duck meat using your fingers or two forks. 7 To serve, arrange the salad leaves on a large platter, scatter over some of the pomegranate seeds and the green and white parts of the spring onions. Arrange the duck meat on top and season, then add the remaining pomegranate seeds and the mint. Use a spoon to drizzle over the dressing. Finally, break up the duck skin into bite-sized pieces, add on top of the salad, then serve. PER SERVING (4) 403 kcals | fat 31G | saturates 8G | carbs 14G sugars 13G | fibre 2G | protein 15G | salt 0.5G

Mercimek köftesi MAKES 20 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 25 MINS EASY | 100g bulgur wheat 100g uncooked red lentils olive oil, for frying 1 small onion, finely chopped, plus extra to serve 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 heaped tsp paprika 1 heaped tsp pul biber chilli flakes 1 tsp ground cumin 2 heaped tbsp tomato purée 2 spring onions, thinly sliced 15g parsley, finely chopped, plus extra to serve sea salt flakes TO SERVE Little Gem lettuce leaves, separated lemon wedges

These Turkish lentil and bulgur wheat koftas are very different to what we think of as koftas in the West. But if you keep in mind that the word kofta (and all variations of it) is a Persian word that means to pummel, beat or pound then this dish makes a lot more sense, and moreover it’s really delicious and very popular with Turkish people. I love serving them in lettuce leaves for an added fresh crunch but you can serve them on their own or however you like. The authentic recipe uses fine bulgur wheat but I’ve purposely used regular bulgur as it’s more readily available. 1 Cook the bulgur and lentils separately following pack instructions, then drain both and leave to sit in a sieve without rinsing. 2 Heat a small frying pan over a medium heat, drizzle in some oil and fry the onion until translucent. Add the garlic, spices and tomato purée, stir, and cook for 5 mins until the oil turns bright red and separates. Remove from the heat. 3 Put the bulgur and lentils into a mixing bowl, add the hot onion and garlic mixture, season generously and mix well. Add the spring onions and parsley, and combine. Chill the mixture for 1 hr to firm up, which will make shaping the koftas easier. 4 Remove from the fridge and roll the mixture into 20 balls. Enclose each one in turn in your fist and carefully squeeze, then put on lettuce leaves or a plate – this squeezed shape complete with indentations is the signature form but you can shape into balls or roll into small sausage shapes. Serve sprinkled with chopped raw onion and parsley, and a good squeeze of lemon juice. PER KOFTA 40 kcals | fat 1G | saturates 0G | carbs 6G sugars 1G | fibre 1G | protein 2G | salt 0G

Spiced beef and tomato polow SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS COOK 1 HR 30 MINS | EASY | GF 500g basmati rice olive oil, for frying 1 large onion, minced in a food processor or very finely chopped 4-5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 500g beef mince 1 heaped tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground cinnamon 140g tomato purée 50g butter, cut into small pieces 400g potatoes, peeled and cut into 1cm-thick slices 2 tbsp ghee or vegetable oil pinch of saffron threads, ground to a powder using a pestle and mortar, then steeped in 3 tbsp of boiling water 3 tbsp greek yogurt sea salt flakes

While this is not a traditional recipe the flavours are pretty classic of Persian home cooking. Tomato purée and turmeric or saffron with onions is a standard treatment for meat for us and this dish makes for a delicious family meal. Serve with yogurt if you want to be really Persian! 1 Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Add the rice and stir to avoid the grains sticking together, then parboil for 6-7 mins until they turn from a dullish off-white colour to a more opaque brilliant white. Drain and rinse thoroughly in a sieve under cold water until cooled and well rinsed of starch. Drain thoroughly by shaking the sieve, then leave for 10 mins to allow any remaining water to drain. Shake off any excess water before use. Rinse and dry the pan. 2 Heat a large frying pan over a medium-high heat, drizzle in some olive oil and fry the onion and garlic until translucent, and turning brown around the edges. Add the beef with the spices, tomato purée and a generous amount of salt and pepper, and fry, breaking it up to prevent it cooking in clumps, until cooked through. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the butter until it melts and check the seasoning (remember you need to add enough seasoning for the whole dish here). Mix in the potato slices. 3 Put the cleaned rice pan over a low heat and add the ghee or the vegetable oil. Add the saffron solution and yogurt with a little salt, and stir, then scatter in just enough rice to coat the base. Gently fold the remaining rice into the beef and potato mixture, taking care not to break the rice grains, then add to the rice pan and spread out to the sides. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, poke 6-8 holes right down to the pan base. Wrap the pan lid with a clean towel so that it fits snugly on the pan. If using a gas hob, cook on the lowest flame for 1 hr; if using an electric/ induction hob, cook over a gentle medium heat for 1 hr 15 mins – you will know when the rice is cooked as steam will push its way out of the closed lid. Once cooked, put a large serving plate over the pan and flip the polow on to the plate to reveal the crunchy tahdig base, then serve. PER SERVING 713 kcals | fat 31G | saturates 15G | carbs 78G sugars 7G | fibre 5G | protein 27G | salt 0.4G

Bokaj MAKES 18 | PREP 20 MINS COOK 45 MINS | EASY 300g raw cashew nuts 50g caster sugar 225g unsalted butter, melted 7-9 sheets of filo pastry (480mm x 250mm) SYRUP 200g caster sugar

This is by far my favourite variety of baklava, and the best contain cashews. While not a Persian baklava, these delicious Arabic treats have always been the sort I enjoy the most. Bokaj is actually a cloth used to carry clothes and belongings in so, in this context, the bokaj is the pastry that carries the cashew filling. 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Spread the cashews on a baking tray and toast for 9 mins, shaking the tray halfway through, until nicely browned. Leave to cool completely, then chop the nuts quite finely – you want a coarse, even texture but not sand. I prefer to chop them by hand using a large knife but you can pulse them in a mini chopper or food processor, just avoid blitzing into a powder. Mix with the sugar and 75g of the melted butter in a bowl until evenly combined, then set the mixture aside to firm up while you get on with the syrup. 2 To make the syrup, put the sugar and 400ml of cold water into a pan over a medium-high heat, and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Continue to cook, without stirring, until the volume reduces by half and becomes a pourable syrup. 3 Line a large roasting dish with baking paper and brush it with a little of the melted butter. Lay a filo pastry sheet on a worksurface and brush with melted butter. Repeat layering and buttering all the pastry sheets. Using a sharp knife, cut the pastry layers in half, then cut each half into 9 squares – you should end up with 18 squares. Spoon the cashew mixture in the middle of each of the pastry squares. 4 Take the four corners of each pastry square and bring them together to form a pyramid. Press the four sides firmly together to enclose the nut filling and to form a flat, square base. When the bokaj are tightly sealed and holding their shape, put them in the buttered dish so they sit together snugly – if there is any space in the dish, scrunch up some foil and use it to fill the gap. Before baking, pinch together any pastry tops that have splayed open. Bake for 25 mins until deeply golden brown. 5 Reheat the syrup, then pour it all over the hot bokaj as soon as they come out of the oven. Leave to cool completely in the tin, then serve with tea or as a post-meal sweet treat. PER BOKAJ 291 kcals | fat 19G | saturates 8G | carbs 25G sugars 15G | fibre 1G | protein 5G | salt 0.1G

Recipes extracted from Persiana Easy by Sabrina Ghayour (£28, Mitchell Beazley). Photographs: Kris Kirkham. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

SIGNATURE DISHES with Nargisse Benkabbou We ask our favourite creators to share recipes that represent their unique style of cooking Recipes NARGISSE BENKABBOU Photographs MOWIE KAY

Nargisse Benkabbou was raised in Brussels in a Moroccan family. Her approach to food is a love letter to the traditions, flavours and techniques of Morocco. After working as executive chef at L’Mida in Marrakech she wrote her cookbook Casablanca: My Moroccan Food. @mymoroccanfood

Slow-roasted lamb shoulder SERVES 6 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 3 HRS 20 MINS | EASY | GF 1.25kg bone-in lamb shoulder 30g preserved lemon, flesh and rind finely chopped 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 3 tbsp olive oil 5 garlic cloves, minced or pressed 2 large onions, sliced into 1cm-thick rounds small handful of parsley, chopped, to serve flatbreads, couscous or roasted potatoes, to serve

This is inspired by tangia, a traditional dish from Marrakech that’s slow-cooked in clay urns buried in hot embers. It was historically prepared by men and taken to the local hammam to cook gently over hours, ready for Friday lunch. The result is always fall-apart meat infused with bold spices, garlic and preserved lemon. I wanted to bring the essence of tangia without the urn or the embers. This captures the same richness and tenderness, with a marinade that seeps into every corner of the lamb as it roasts low and slow. The onions beneath soften, caramelise and absorb all the flavour from the meat and spices. It’s the kind of dish that feels festive but requires very little effort, just time and trust in the oven. 1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. In a small bowl, mix together the lemon, ginger, coriander, cumin, oil, garlic and 1 tsp of fine sea salt to form a paste. 2 Use a small sharp knife to make deep slits all over the lamb, especially around the thicker parts. Rub the marinade all over, working it into the slits and across the surface. 3 Arrange the onion slices in an even layer in the base of a roasting tin. Put the lamb on top, fat-side up. 4 Cover the dish tightly with foil and roast for 2 hrs 50 mins until the meat falls apart when pressed with a fork. 5 Remove the foil and return the lamb to the oven. Roast uncovered for 30 mins until the top is golden and crisp, and the meat is very tender. 6 Remove from the oven and cover the lamb loosely with foil to rest for 20 mins to allow the juices to settle. 7 Use forks to pull the lamb apart, then transfer the meat to a large serving dish along with the softened onions. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately with your choice of flatbreads, couscous or roasted potatoes. PER SERVING 457 kcals | fat 34G | saturates 14G | carbs 8G sugars 5G | fibre 2G | protein 29G | salt 1.1G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLING: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

Chicken tagine with olives and preserved lemon SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS MARINATING | COOK 1 HR 30 MINS EASY MARINADE 2 tbsp olive oil 1 lemon, juiced 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground ginger TAGINE 4 chicken legs 4 tbsp olive oil 4 large onions, sliced 20g coriander, leaves and tender stems finely chopped, plus extra to serve 4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground ginger small pinch of saffron threads (optional) 150ml chicken stock 2 small preserved lemons, flesh and rind finely chopped 120g red pitted olives, such as Kalamata crusty bread or couscous, to serve

This chicken tagine is one of the most iconic dishes in Moroccan cuisine. It’s known for its bright, fragrant sauce and the balance of rich, mellow onions with subtle notes of preserved lemon and briny olives. For me it captures the essence of the traditional Moroccan kitchen and it’s the dish my mother would prepare for me whenever I visited from London. It’s often made for family lunches and gatherings but it’s actually simple enough to make on a weeknight for dinner. The marinade, made with lemon juice, turmeric and ginger, infuses the chicken with warmth and depth, while slowcooked onions create a sweet, silky base. Serve it with crusty bread to mop up the sauce or a side of couscous. 1 Mix together the marinade ingredients with ½ tsp of salt in a large bowl. Add the chicken and use your hands or a spatula to coat them thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hrs or overnight. 2 In a large pot or pan heat the oil over a medium-low heat. Add the onions, cover and cook for 10 mins until they start to soften. 3 Add the coriander, garlic, turmeric, ginger, ½ tsp of salt, ¼ tsp of ground black pepper and the saffron (if using), and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 5 mins. Add the chicken, pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for 45 mins-1 hr until the chicken is fully cooked. 4 Use tongs to carefully remove the chicken to a plate and cover. Stir the lemons and olives into the sauce, and cook uncovered over a medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 30-45 mins until the liquid has evaporated and the oil separates from the onions. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. 5 Return the chicken to the pan and warm through in the sauce for 5 mins. Serve with crusty bread or couscous. PER SERVING 583 kcals | fat 42G | saturates 8G | carbs 20G sugars 13G | fibre 5G | protein 28G | salt 2.8G

Batata mchermla with prawns (potatoes, greens and prawn stew) SERVES 4-6 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 30 MINS | EASY 3 tbsp olive oil 20g coriander, leaves and tender stems finely chopped, plus extra to serve 3 garlic cloves, minced or pressed 2 tbsp lemon juice 2 tsp sweet paprika 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp honey 2 tbsp tomato purée 500g potatoes, peeled and cut into 2.5cm pieces 200ml vegetable stock ½ small preserved lemon, finely chopped 200g chard, cut into 1cm strips 350g raw prawns, shelled and deveined greek yogurt and bread, to serve

This warming, lightly spiced stew is inspired by batata mchermla, a potato-based dish found in many Moroccan homes which translates to ‘potatoes in chermoula’. It’s very popular in Morocco. Here I give it a coastal twist with prawns and leafy greens for a lighter, more vibrant version that still delivers on comfort. The potatoes soak up the paprika and cumin infused chermoula-style broth, while preserved lemon adds brightness, and chard brings just the right amount of texture. It’s quick enough for a weeknight dinner but also layered with complex flavour to impress your guests. 1 Heat the oil in a large pot over a medium-low heat. Add the coriander, garlic, lemon juice, paprika, cumin, honey and 11/4 tsp of fine sea salt. Stir to combine and cook for 2-3 mins until fragrant. Add the tomato purée and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 mins until it darkens slightly. 2 Add the potatoes, mix to coat with the spices, pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and let it simmer for 15 mins until the potatoes are nearly cooked – they should feel soft on the surface but still slightly firm in the middle when pierced with a fork. Stir the pan halfway through to ensure even cooking. 3 Add the prawns, chard and lemon, increase the heat to medium, cover and cook for 3-5 mins until the prawns and the potatoes are cooked and the chard is wilted. The potatoes should now feel tender when pressed with a fork. 4 Sprinkle with coriander and serve with yogurt and bread on the side to soak up all the juices. PER SERVING (6) 166 kcals | fat 4G | saturates 1G | carbs 23G sugars 3G | fibre 2G | protein 9G | salt 1.4G

Moroccan couscous SERVES 6-8 | PREP 30 MINS COOK 1 HR 15 MINS | EASY | V 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp ghee or unsalted butter 1 large onion, diced 2 tomatoes, grated or finely chopped 1¼ tsp ground turmeric 1¼ tsp ground ginger small pinch saffron (optional) bunch of coriander, tied with kitchen twine 1 litre of vegetable stock 1 small cabbage, cut through the base into 8cm wedges 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 6cm wedges 2 large carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 7cm pieces 2 turnips, peeled and cut into 3cm pieces, or parsnips, peeled and cut into 5cm pieces 2 courgettes, cut into 2.5cm rounds 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed 500g couscous 2 tbsp unsalted butter

This is a classic meal on Fridays, when families usually gather after Jumu’ah, the weekly congregational prayer. It’s often shared around a large dish and I always look forward to it when I visit my parents. It has a fragrant base of onion, tomato and warm spices, infused with coriander and saffron. As the broth simmers, layer upon layer of vegetables are gently added, each one lending its sweetness and texture to the pot. The dish is served over fluffy couscous, with plenty of broth spooned on top or on the side. Although preparing it might seem elaborate, this is more about rhythm than technique. 1 Heat the oil and ghee in a large pot over a medium-low heat. Cook the onion, tomatoes, turmeric, ginger, saffron (if using), 1½ tsp of salt and ¼ tsp of ground black pepper, stirring frequently, for 5-8 mins until the onions start to soften. 2 Add the coriander bouquet, pour in the stock and bring to a boil over a high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer gently for 30 mins. 3 Discard the coriander bouquet, add the cabbage and bring to a boil over a high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pan and simmer for 10 mins. 4 If the cabbage wasn’t fully immersed, use tongs to flip it, then add the sweet potatoes, carrots and turnips (or parsnips) and give the pan a gentle stir to distribute the vegetables evenly. There should be enough liquid in the pot to just cover the vegetables but not submerge them completely, so add more stock if needed. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to mediumlow, cover the pan and simmer for 10 mins. 5 Add the courgettes and chickpeas, stir gently to distribute the vegetables evenly, bring to the boil over a high heat, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the pan and simmer for 7-10 mins until all the vegetables are tender and cooked. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt if necessary. 6 Meanwhile, prepare the couscous following pack instructions, then transfer to a bowl and mix in 2 tbsp of butter and ¾ tsp of salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt if necessary. 7 To serve, put the couscous onto a large sharing platter, top with the vegetables, chickpeas and some of the broth. Serve the remaining broth on the side as a soup or to moisten the couscous further. PER SERVING (8) 518 kcals | fat 13G | saturates 5G | carbs 78G sugars 13G | fibre 12G | protein 16G | salt 1.8G

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

3 WAYS WITH MARMALADE Don’t just save it for toast – this bittersweet spread is a multitasker in the kitchen Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Marmalade upside down cake

SERVES 6-8 | PREP 20 MINS COOK 1 HR | EASY 3 medium oranges, 2 zested 250g salted butter, softened, plus a little for the tin 4 tbsp La Vieja Fábrica Seville Marmalade 225g golden caster sugar 3 eggs, beaten 100g natural yogurt 2 tbsp olive oil 200g plain flour 2 tsp baking powder crème fraîche or single cream, to serve

1 Put the orange zest aside, then slice the top and bottom of the pith from each orange. Using a small serrated knife, slice them into thin, round slices. Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. 2 Butter and line a 23cm springform tin with baking paper. Using a pastry brush, spread 25g of the butter on top of the baking paper and around the sides of the tin. Spread 2 tbsp of the marmalade on top of the butter, making sure it is well coated. 3 Lay the orange slices decoratively on the bottom of the tin, gently overlapping them so there are as few gaps as possible. 4 Put the remaining butter, sugar and orange zest in the bowl of a standmixer, or in a large bowl if you want to use an electric hand whisk. Beat on medium speed for 5-6 mins or until light and fluffy. 5 Meanwhile, whisk together the eggs, yogurt and oil until combined. Whisk together the flour, baking powder and ½ tsp of salt in a separate bowl. Once the butter and sugar are light and fluffy, pour in a third of the wet ingredients, mix until just combined, then add a third of the dry ingredients. Alternate between the two until the mixture is smooth and velvety. 6 Pour the mixture over the oranges and smooth it out to the edges of the tin. Bake for 50 mins-1 hr or until golden, risen and smelling citrussy. Leave to cool in the tin for 20 mins before turning out, flipping to reveal the beautiful oranges. 7 Glaze with the remaining 2 tbsp of marmalade and serve with crème fraîche or single cream. PER SERVING (8) 539 kcals | fat 31G | saturates 17G carbs 58G | sugars 38G | fibre 2G | protein 6G | salt 1G

La Vieja Fábrica takes pride in crafting authentic marmalade in the heart of Seville. Its marmalade is prepared using traditional methods, slowly cooked at low temperatures to preserve the vibrant flavour and natural richness of Seville oranges. La Vieja Fábrica uses a high fruit content to deliver the deepest, richest taste. The team, based in Seville, brings years of expertise to guarantee each jar captures the delicious, authentic taste of traditional marmalade. And its versatility goes far beyond breakfast – stir it into cakes, use it to glaze roasted meats or add a citrus twist to your favourite cocktail. The possibilities are endless.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY

Sticky chilli marmalade ribs

SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS MARINADING | COOK 3 HRS 30 MINS | MORE EFFORT

The marmalade in this glaze makes them sticky and bittersweet – have plenty of napkins at the ready!

800g rack of pork baby back ribs, membrane removed (ask your butcher to do this for you) MARINADE 500ml orange juice 3 spring onions, whites left whole, greens finely sliced 3 garlic cloves, bashed and unpeeled 1 red chilli, sliced 30g ginger, unpeeled and sliced into thick pieces 1 tbsp light soy sauce 1 tbsp szechuan peppercorns, lightly crushed 20g coriander stalks, roughly chopped (optional) 2 tbsp La Vieja Fábrica Seville Marmalade 250ml chicken stock DRY RUB ½ tbsp smoked paprika 2 tbsp soft light brown sugar ½ tbsp garlic granules ½ tbsp chilli powder GLAZE 2 tbsp tomato ketchup 3 tbsp La Vieja Fábrica Seville Marmalade 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tsp chilli powder TO SERVE 5g coriander, leaves picked 1 red chilli, sliced (optional) steamed jasmine rice

1 Season the ribs with salt, massaging it in with your hands. Put into a large food-safe bag or container. Pour over the orange juice, spring onion whites, garlic, chilli, ginger, soy sauce, szechuan peppercorns, coriander stalks and marmalade. Cover and marinade for 3-5 hrs in the fridge. 2 Mix together the dry rub ingredients in a small bowl with a pinch of salt and plenty of black pepper. 3 Remove the ribs from the marinade and heat the oven to 160C/ 140C fan/gas 4. Pat the ribs dry and put them onto a wire rack set over a deep roasting tin. Sprinkle over the dry rub, patting it well into the ribs. Pour the marinade into the deep roasting tin, then pour in the stock. Wrap well with foil and bake for 3 hrs until tender. 4 Meanwhile, make the glaze by putting all the ingredients in a small pan with some salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 3-4 mins or until thickened slightly. 5 Once the ribs are tender, remove the foil and brush on half the glaze. Turn up the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Roast for 20-25 mins, glazing every so often. The ribs should be sticky and glistening with a few charred edges. 6 To serve, chop into ribs and sprinkle with the spring onion greens, coriander and chilli. Serve with rice and plenty of the cooking liquor. PER SERVING 411 kcals | fat 14G | saturates 5G carbs 39G | sugars 37G | fibre 2G | protein 32G | salt 1.6G

Marmalade and ginger fool

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | EASY 200g double cream 1 large orange, zested and juiced 10g ginger, peeled and finely grated 4 tbsp icing sugar 200g greek yogurt 3-4 tbsp La Vieja Fábrica Seville Marmalade 100g gingernut biscuits, crushed to a fine crumb 1 orange, peeled and segmented

This is a delicious, speedy dessert that is zesty and zingy. Serve with more ginger biscuits for scooping, if you like. 1 Pour the cream into a large bowl then scatter in the orange zest, juice, ginger and sugar. Whisk to soft peaks, then fold through the yogurt. Fold through 2 tbsp of the marmalade. 2 Spoon 1 tbsp of the biscuits into the bottom of four serving glasses. Spoon 1 tsp of marmalade on top and a piece of orange, then pour on some of the yogurt mixture. Repeat with all the remaining yogurt, biscuits and orange pieces. Save a piece of orange to decorate and drizzle over a few dots of marmalade. 3 Serve immediately or leave in the fridge until ready to serve. PER SERVING 547 kcals | fat 36G | saturates 22G carbs 50G | sugars 39G | fibre 1G | protein 5G | salt 0.4G

MODERN BAKING with Edd Kimber

Reintroduce autumnal spiced flavours in a new way with these treat bars inspired by comforting apple crumble Recipe EDD KIMBER Photograph ANT DUNCAN

Caramelised apple and brown butter cheesecake bars

s summer comes to an end, my preference for gently spiced baking slowly increases, with ginger and cinnamon making more frequent appearances, giving everything I bake a toasty warm vibe. These spices, when paired with apple, immediately conjure the idea of a classic apple crumble – but in this recipe it morphs into a delicious bar with a brown butter crumble and thick cheesecake layer. I like using Granny Smiths because they are tart and have a quintessential green apple flavour. They can also be caramelised without becoming mushy or overly sweet.

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Lightly butter a 33cm x 23cm brownie pan and line with a single strip of baking paper that overhangs the long sides, securing it in place with a couple of metal binder clips. 2 For the crumble, brown the butter in a large pan over a medium heat. The butter will bubble up and foam, then you will see brown flecks appearing. Remove from the heat and pour in 40ml of boiling water. In a large bowl, mix the flour, sugar, oats and 1/4 tsp of fine sea salt. Add the browned butter and stir until it forms a crumbly dough. 3 Scrape two-thirds of the mixture into the prepared pan and gently spread out so the base is evenly covered. Use the base of a flat glass to compress the layer evenly. Prick the base with a fork and chill for 15 mins. Chill the remaining crumble until needed. 4 Meanwhile, make the caramelised apples. Peel and core the apples, dicing them into roughly 2cm chunks. Put the apples into a bowl and drizzle over the lemon juice, tossing to coat evenly. Melt the butter in a medium pan over a medium heat until starting to bubble. Add the sugars, spices, a large pinch of salt and the apple mixture, stirring to evenly coat the apples. Cook for 10 mins or until the apples are soft and the liquid has reduced to a thick caramel. Tip back into the bowl. 5 Bake the chilled base for 20 mins, until starting to brown around the edges, then remove. 6 Put the cheesecake ingredients in a large bowl and, using an electric mixer, beat until smooth. Pour the batter over the base and spread into an even layer. Scatter over the caramelised apples and any juices in the bowl. Scatter the remaining crumble over the apple. 7 Bake for 30-35 mins or until it is set around the edges with a slight wobble in the centre. Remove and cool to room temperature before refrigerating for at least 4 hrs or preferably overnight. Cut into bars to serve. Will keep chilled for up to four days.

MAKES 16 | PREP 30 MINS COOK 1 HR 45 MINS MORE EFFORT BROWN BUTTER CRUMBLE 225g unsalted butter, diced, plus extra for the pan 350g plain flour 200g caster sugar 4 tbsp rolled oats CARAMELISED APPLES 500g Granny Smith apples 1 /2 lemon, juiced 30g unsalted butter, diced 30g caster sugar 30g soft light brown sugar 1 /2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 /2 tsp ground ginger CHEESECAKE 560g full-fat soft cheese, room temperature 120ml soured cream 200g caster sugar 2 tbsp cornflour 2 tsp vanilla bean paste 1 lemon, zested 2 eggs

EDD KIMBER IS A BAKER, FOOD WRITER AND THE AUTHOR OF SEVEN COOKBOOKS, INCLUDING HIS LATEST, SMALL BATCH COOKIES. FIND HIM ON SUBSTACK AND INSTAGRAM @THEBOYWHOBAKES.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY

THE MENOLICIOUS METHOD: EATING FOR BETTER HEALTH Follow these easy steps and delicious recipes for a diet that will tackle the symptoms of menopause and mid-life, from Mariella Frostrup and chef Belles Berry Words MARIELLA FROSTRUP Recipes BELLES BERRY Photographs DAN JONES

FOCUS ON NUTRIENT-DENSE FOODS For bone health, include dairy products, fortified foods, leafy greens and fatty fish. Support muscle mass with lean meats, beans, lentils, nuts and tofu. Choose unsaturated fats and oils. Omega-3 fatty acids (found in fish, walnuts and flaxseeds) may help reduce inflammation and mood swings. Aim for two portions of oily fish a week.

Key nutrients to include in your diet

BALANCE BLOOD SUGAR Significantly increase your intake of fresh fruit and vegetables – half of your plate should be made up of vegetables or salad. Avoid refined carbs and sugary snacks and drinks. Instead choose fibre-rich foods, such as wholegrains (brown rice, oats, bulgur wheat), lentils, seeds, fruits and vegetables.

INCLUDE PHYTOESTROGENS Incorporate soy, flaxseeds and legumes into your diet, as these ingredients have mild oestrogen-like effects in the body, potentially easing symptoms like hot flushes.

4 5

HYDRATION Drink plenty of water to combat dryness and bloating.

CALCIUM AND VITAMIN D As our bone density decreases with age, the calcium and vitamin D found in dairy products (and fortified plant-based alternatives) are important for maintaining bone health and reducing the risk of osteoporosis. MAGNESIUM Playing a critical role in bone health, muscle and nervous system function, it’s important to keep up your magnesium intake to reduce bone loss, mood fluctuations and sleep disturbances. Eat plenty of nuts, seeds, dried fruit and dark green leafy veg. PROTEIN Muscle mass can decline during menopause and protein helps preserve it. It’s also needed for mood, energy and bone strength, so eat lean meats, fish, eggs, legumes and tofu.

LIMIT TRIGGERS Reduce your intake of salt, caffeine, alcohol and spicy foods, which can exacerbate hot flushes and sleep disturbances. Ensure you are having some alcohol-free days, too.

PRE- AND PROBIOTICS Gut health is closely linked to mood regulation and cognitive function, which may help manage menopause-related mood swings. Probiotics can also support your immune system, which is important during hormonal changes. Prebiotic foods include garlic, bananas, asparagus, onions, leeks and flaxseeds, while fermented foods like yogurt, sauerkraut, tempeh and miso contain probiotics.

REGULAR EXERCISE Ensure you get daily exercise, like a walk, swim or run. Strength-based exercises twice a week also help maintain bone density and muscle mass. Yoga or pilates will keep you flexible and balanced.

6 PHOTOGRAPH: JUPITER IMAGES/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY

COLLAGEN When we’re approaching menopause our bodies produce less collagen (a protein essential to the health of our joints, skin, hair and more). Skin-on chicken and wild salmon, bone broth and beef are good sources, while zinc and vitamin C can help stimulate the body’s natural collagen production.

This is an edited extract from Menolicious: Eat Your Way to a Better Menopause by Mariella Frostrup and Belles Berry. Published by DK RED, £22. Out now. Photographs: Dan Jones.

PHYTOESTROGENS These plant compounds have a mild oestrogen-like effect in the body when consumed regularly over two to three months and may ease symptoms like hot flushes. They’re found in soy (opt for whole sources like tofu, tempeh or edamame, rather than processed products), flaxseeds and legumes.

MARIELLA FROSTRUP IS A BROADCASTER, JOURNALIST AND MENOPAUSE ACTIVIST WHO HAS COLLABORATED WITH CHEF AND THE GREAT TASTE COMPANY FOUNDER BELLES BERRY ON MENOLICIOUS TO HELP WOMEN EASE SYMPTOMS OF THE MENOPAUSE THROUGH FOOD. FOLLOW MARIELLA ON INSTAGRAM @MARIELLA_FROSTRUP AND BELLES @BELLESBERRYCOOKS. 51

Ras el hanout rice salad with orange and cumin dressing Red rice is rich in antioxidants, fibre and essential minerals, supporting heart health, digestion and blood sugar control. Mariella’s favourite salad – and well worth the extra prep time – this is a wonderful Moroccan-spiced rice dish, which is great for a crowd. It is perfect on its own, or goes really well with a butterflied leg of lamb cooked on the barbecue. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY | V 50g flaked almonds 2 tbsp ras el hanout 1 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, halved, then sliced 1 tbsp honey 75g dried apricots, roughly chopped 250g pouch of cooked red rice, or 100g red rice, cooked 2 large carrots, grated 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed 100g feta handful of chopped parsley pinch of cumin seeds mint leaves, to garnish DRESSING 1 large orange, zested and juiced 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp grainy mustard 2 tsp honey ½ tsp sea salt flakes 4 tbsp olive oil

1 Heat a large dry frying pan and cook the almonds until golden. Transfer to a small bowl. 2 Add the ras el hanout to the hot pan and cook for 1 min then add the oil and onion, and fry for a few minutes. Add the honey and apricots and let them caramelise for 5 mins, stirring occasionally, then remove from the heat and scrape the mixture into a large bowl. 3 Next, make the dressing in a food processor or by hand using a bowl and whisk. Mix together all the dressing ingredients, except the oil, then pour in the oil in a thin stream until it has reached a good consistency. Season with black pepper to taste. 4 Add the dressing to the onion mixture, along with the rice, carrots and chickpeas, and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 5 Transfer to a large, shallow bowl and sprinkle with the feta, parsley, cumin seeds and toasted almonds, then garnish with some mint leaves.

Sweet and sour slaw with fig and tamarind sauce Figs provide essential vitamins and minerals, and contain phytoestrogens – plant-based compounds that can help mimic the effects of oestrogen in the body and ease some menopausal symptoms such as hot flushes. A summer staple, the perfect accompaniment to a barbecue but it’s just as tasty eaten indoors. The sauce is heated, then cooled, so make it before you prepare the slaw.

SERVES 6 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 5 MINS EASY | V 300g white cabbage, thinly sliced 300g red cabbage, thinly sliced 2 red peppers, pith removed, cut into strips 8 spring onions, thinly sliced diagonally 1 large red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 2 tbsp roughly chopped coriander 2 limes, zested and juiced FIG AND TAMARIND SAUCE 100g dried figs, tops removed, finely chopped

100g tamarind paste 4 tbsp honey ½ tsp sea salt flakes

1 Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small non-stick pan with 3½ tbsp of water and cook over a medium heat for 5 mins. Pour into a small heatproof bowl and put in the fridge to cool. 2 In a large bowl, combine the cabbages, peppers, spring onions, chilli, coriander and lime juice. Mix well, then add the cooled sauce and toss well. Transfer to a bowl and scatter the lime zest on top before serving.

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Harmonious cannellini bean one-pot Cannellini beans can support metabolic function, improve cardiovascular health, reduce fatigue, support muscle growth, strengthen bones and boost memory. A delicious, fragrant one-pot for all the family, inspired by the time Belles spent working in kitchens in India and Sri Lanka learning about spices and finding the perfect curry recipe. This is our delicious cannellini bean version. These beans are one of the highest protein legumes and are packed with fibre, too. This freezes well for up to eight weeks. SERVES 4 AS A MAIN OR 6 AS A SIDE PREP 10 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY | 20g coconut flakes 3 tbsp olive or coconut oil

1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds 10 curry leaves (fresh if possible) 1 brown onion, chopped 15g ginger, peeled and thinly sliced 4 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 red chilli, deseeded and thinly sliced 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground coriander 200ml coconut milk 2 x 400g tins of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 12 cherry tomatoes, halved 1 tsp mango chutney handful of coriander, plus extra to garnish 1 lime, juiced greek or coconut yogurt, to serve (optional) brown and wild rice and/or flatbreads, to serve

1 Heat a large lidded non-stick pan and toast the coconut flakes until golden.

2 Heat the oil in the same pan over a medium heat, then cook the fennel and mustard seeds for 30 seconds until they begin to crackle and pop. Add the curry leaves, onion, ginger, garlic, chilli, turmeric and ground coriander, and cook for 8-10 mins, stirring occasionally, until golden. 3 Reduce the heat, add the coconut milk, beans and tomatoes, and simmer gently with the lid on, stirring occasionally, for 5 mins. 4 Remove from the heat and stir in the chutney and coriander. Season with salt to taste, then squeeze in the lime juice. Serve with a dollop of yogurt (if you like), topped with the toasted coconut and a few coriander leaves, with brown and wild rice, and/ or flatbreads.

Lemon cheesecake with a macadamia nut crust Macadamia nuts support menopause health by providing healthy monounsaturated fats that promote heart health and reduce inflammation. This should come with a warning, as it’s impossible not to have seconds. It’s a reboot of one of our favourite desserts: a delicious, zingy, creamy cheesecake with a firm, crunchy and healthy nut base. Such an irresistible combination of flavours. SERVES 6-8 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS CHILLING | EASY 100g salted butter 100g lightly roasted macadamia nuts or hazelnuts 200g oat biscuits 175g lemon curd 250g mascarpone 250ml double cream 125g soft cheese 3 lemons, zested, 2 juiced

1 Gently melt the butter in a medium non-stick pan. Meanwhile, put the nuts and biscuits in a food processor and blitz (or put in a sealed bag and bash with a rolling pin) until crumbly. 2 Add the nut mixture to the melted butter and mix well, then tip into a 23cm round, fluted, loose-bottomed tart tin, pressing it evenly into the base and pressing up the sides with a spoon. Spoon the curd on top and put in the fridge to firm up. 3 In a large bowl, combine the mascarpone, cream, cheese, two-thirds of the lemon zest and all the lemon juice. Whisk well, then spoon the mixture on top of the biscuit base and chill in the fridge for 1 hr until set. 4 Decorate with the remaining lemon zest and serve.

Recipes extracted from Menolicious: Eat Your Way to a Better Menopause by Mariella Frostrup and Belles Berry (£22, DK RED). Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us. 56

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Cruise the scenic Rhine Gorge to Rüdesheim, exploring its charming Christmas markets. Enjoy guided tours of Koblenz and Bonn, with time to browse festive stalls. End in Cologne with free time to discover its seven magical Christmas markets. A festive journey through Germany’s historic and picturesque holiday towns.

EXPERIENCES AND/OR EXTENSIONS • Four guided tours including romantic Rüdesheim, dynamic Frankfurt, charming Koblenz and magnificent Cologne • Cruise through the spectacular Rhine Gorge • On-board classical music concert • On-board folklore show • New Year’s Eve gala dinner, midnight drinks and canapés, plus a New Year’s Day brunch

EXPERIENCES AND/OR EXTENSIONS • Three guided tours including romantic Rüdesheim, charming Koblenz and historic Bonn • Visit to magnificent Cologne • Four Christmas market visits in Rüdesheim, Koblenz, Bonn and Cologne

TOURS INCLUDE • Return flights or Eurostar from London St Pancras (supplement may apply), plus transfers • Your choice of spacious cabins with window or French balcony on a five-star ship • Delicious full-board dining, plus Chef’s Dinner • Free drinks package** • Complimentary on-board tea, coffee and Wi-Fi (connection speeds may vary) • Expert Riviera Cruise Director & Concierge • All port charges and airport taxes • 20kg+ checked luggage

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To request a brochure call 01283 901160 quoting ‘O’ or, to book, visit rivieratravel.co.uk/olm TERMS AND CONDITIONS *Prices are based on two people sharing and are correct at time of print. **Some exclusions may apply. Single supplements may apply. †Offer is available on upper deck cabins on select festive river cruises in 2025. €100 onboard credit is applied per cabin. This offer is not combinable with any other promotion. Holidays are operated by and subject to booking conditions of Riviera Travel, ABTA V4744/ATOL 3430 protected. Subject to availability. Additional entrance costs may apply. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. For further information please write to Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP.

discover A deep dive into the culinary highlights of Tuscany, Kuala Lumpur and Sheffield, serene autumnal hideaways to book now, plus Azeri cuisine to try at home

BOLTHOLE BREAKS Rural retreats Celebrate harvest season at these serene hideaways, from farm stays in Devon to Catalonian vineyards and French countryside chic

Le Doyenné, Île-de-France, France In a nutshell A small working farm and restaurant with a handful of charming bedrooms just 40 minutes south of Paris. What’s the vibe? The expansive dining room is very much at the heart of the estate, surrounded by gardens which supply the kitchen. The allure of Le Doyenné is its remoteness. This magical countryside escape is best enjoyed as a bolt-on to a Parisian weekend away. Which room to book? The 11 bedrooms are a considered mixture of traditional French farmhouse details (think terracotta tiles and antique furniture) and modern luxury finishes (plush beds and roll-top baths). Room 108 is the biggest – with two floors it easily sleeps a family of four. High ceilings and huge windows create an elegant penthouse feel with verdant green views. It’s the perfect place to sit for an evening aperitif.

What’s for breakfast? Breakfast is a tempting array of viennoiserie, yogurt, granola and cold meats. The hot menu might feature Turkish eggs or anchovy tartines with salad. Anything else? Peek in the Le Doyenné shop, filled with homemade breads, books and pottery. Rooms from €265 per night, ledoyennerestaurant.com.

WORDS; MILLY KENNY-RYDER, KATIE MESTON, ANYA GILBERT. PHOTOGRAPHS: MILLY KENNY-RYDER

Food and drink Despite the prestige of the restaurant, the atmosphere is incredibly laid back. A daily set menu showcases the best local produce, and dishes are refined but not fussy – emphasis is put on flavour. The crudités du jardin is a highlight, each raw vegetable or flower accented with a clever sauce or seasoning. The rotating main course may be local duck cooked over coal or chicken with new-season asparagus and girolles.

Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno, Catalonia, Spain In a nutshell In the vine-laced hills of Catalonia’s Priorat region, Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno is a bold reimagining of the traditional Spanish manor house. What’s the vibe? Once a 12th-century estate, this Relais & Châteaux property now houses 24 suites that strike a harmonious balance between monastic calm and contemporary elegance. Think arched stone walls, custommade furniture, cool marble interiors, local ceramics and an infinity pool in the silhouette of a wine bottle. It’s rural Catalonia recast through a minimalist, high-design lens, with deliberate softness. Food and drink At Vinum, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant in the main building, chef Josep Queralt elevates local ingredients with quiet precision. The Sent Soví tasting menu is inspired by a medieval recipe book from 1324 and one of the earliest records of Catalan gastronomy. Standout dishes include candied leeks with Bellmunt del Priorat cottage cheese and confit egg yolk, and poultry broth enriched with roasted Reus hazelnuts. Poolside Tarraco is a more relaxed space serving the likes of watermelon and tomato gazpacho, citrus-cured sea bass ceviche and creamy rice layered with ibérico pork loin and Piquillo peppers. At Bruno’s Bar bespoke cocktails and robust Priorat reds are served beside sculptural fireplaces and a terrace that spills into the landscape. Which room to book Book Bruno’s Suite for its vaulted ceilings, panoramic vineyard views, freestanding bath and olive oil based local amenities. The in-room bar (yes, a full bar, no mini here) is stocked with bold regional wines and snacks sourced from nearby artisans. What’s breakfast like? Breakfast is a lavish yet unfussy affair: cooked-to-order eggs, flaky ensaïmadas, cheeses from Montsant farms and house-made compotes. Anything else? The cellar-level spa is an atmospheric sanctuary offering grape seed treatments, while cycling enthusiasts can borrow the hotel’s electric bikes, making Priorat’s undulating hills a little more forgiving. Neighbourhood gems Visit nearby Clos Figueras for organic wines and lunch in its garden restaurant, and browse Agrobotiga Falset for local oils and vermouth.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHELLE CHAPLOW

Rooms from €350 per night, masdenbruno.com.

Fowlescombe Farm, Devon, England In a nutshell Tucked in the foothills of Dartmoor, Fowlescombe Farm is a quietly luxurious rural retreat where regenerative organic farming and contemporary comfort meet with a fork-to-table food ethos. What’s the vibe? Dating back to 1537, the estate’s original Victorian farmhouse and timeworn stone barns have been thoughtfully restored by director Caitlin Owens and her team. The result is an intimate and relaxed atmosphere, with just 10 suites spread across four distinct buildings. Service is familial – expect to be welcomed as a friend, perhaps even by Basil, the head gardener’s gentle labrador. Food and drink Daily menus are shaped by the land and seasons. The Refectory’s kitchen table seats 10 with a view of the chef at work. Expect dishes such as silky courgette and apple velouté, sirloin of shorthorn beef with tomato confit and a flavour-packed strawberry parfait with elderflower. Garden-to-glass gin and cocktail pairings add to the sense of place here. Which room to book The Meadow Suite is a standout, offering uninterrupted views over wildflower fields and woodland from its private living room and vast bathroom. What’s for breakfast? Graze on the elegant buffet of granola parfaits, pastries, smoked salmon and charcuterie before ordering a Full Fowlescombe: hash browns, sausages, black pudding, homemade smoky beans and eggs to your liking, alongside green juice of the day and excellent coffee.

Neighbourhood gems You’ll want for nothing while at the farm but, if you’re out and about, don’t miss a pint of prawns at The Winking Prawn in Salcombe’s North Sands or a boat to The Millbrook Inn, reached by tidal causeway. Rooms from £375 per night, fowlescombe.com.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JON TONKS, MATTHEW HAGUE

Anything else? A weekly calendar of activities can be dipped into, with bespoke experiences on request. Guided yoga in the garden and sea swimming with a post-dip croissant and flask of tea left us grounded. Cookery courses, guided farm tours and animal feeding deepen the connection to land and food.

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Enjoy rest and relaxation on the shores of the Adriatic and take in the often overlooked delights of Italy’s sun-kissed southern ‘high heel’. Enjoy a delightful holiday in Puglia, exploring Ostuni, Alberobello’s trulli houses and Matera’s caves. Optional excursions include Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, Castellana’s caves, Locorotondo and Martina Franca. A highlight is Lecce, the Baroque Florence of the South. This Adriatic-based trip reveals southern Italy’s charm and history.

Discover the treasures beside the blue Adriatic – Roman glories, stunning scenery and one of Europe’s most beautiful lakes. Spend a relaxing week in elegant Lovran, once a Habsburg retreat. Stay in a stylish shore-side hotel and enjoy included excursions to the stunning Istrian Riviera, Slovenia’s picturesque Lake Bled and Croatia’s breathtaking Plitvice National Park – three unforgettable highlights in this premier Croatian holiday haven. HIGHLIGHTS AND INCLUSIONS: • Seven nights’ half-board accommodation at the four-star Hotel Excelsior, Lovran • Witness the waterfalls and breathtaking scenery in Plitvice National Park • Visit the exquisite, emerald-green Lake Bled, Slovenia’s most charming attraction • Visits to Pula, Rovinj and Lim Fjord on a tour of the Istrian Peninsula • Return flights to Pula or Venice • Comfortable, air-conditioned coach travel and transfers throughout • Fully escorted by a friendly, experienced tour manager

HIGHLIGHTS AND INCLUSIONS: • Seven nights’ half-board accommodation at the four-star Hotel del Levante, Torre Canne • Take in Alberobello’s traditional conical trulli houses • Explore Lecce’s Baroque buildings and Roman ruins • Discover the UNESCO-listed wonders of Matera’s Sassi cave dwellings • A tour of Apulia, Cisternino, Ostuni and Alberobello • Coach travel and transfers throughout • Return flights to Bari • Fully escorted by a friendly, experienced tour manager

To book call 0333 344 1461 and quote ‘OLV’ or, for more information, visit newmarketholidays.co.uk/olv TERMS AND CONDITIONS These holidays are organised and operated by Newmarket Holidays Ltd. ABTOT 5509/ATOL protected 2325/ABTA V7812. Standard phone charges apply. Prices correct at time of going to press. Single supplements apply. Newmarket Holidays reserves the right to cancel, change or amend any tour.

PHOTOGRAPH: GARY YEOWELL/DIGITAL VISION/GETTY STYLING:XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXX.FOOD STYLING:XXXXXX XXXXXXXX. WORDS XXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX PHOTOGRAPH: EYE35 STOCK / ALAMY STOCK

the O guide to

Sheffield

This South Yorkshire city prides itself on its independent spirit, as does its lively food scene. Whether spending the weekend hitting gigs and galleries or walking in the Peak District, work up an appetite and dive in Words TONY NAYLOR

FOODIES LOVE Orange Bird Modish Hillsborough restaurant, much-liked for its friendly vibe and the creative vim of chef Matt Duggan-Jones. Sharing dishes draw on Matt’s South African heritage and cleverly utilise global flavours in creations such as his caramelised aubergine with masala butter, cherry molasses, curry leaves and coconut labneh, or a braai-barbecued pork rib chop, seasoned with an hibiscus-tweaked braai spice mixture and served with plum, green tomato and black cardamom jam. theorangebird.co.uk

SETTING THE BAR Pearl at Park Hill Located amid the famous brutalist 1960s estate that rises behind Sheffield station, Pearl is the Bench team’s new wave ‘local’ for this recently regenerated neighbourhood. Primarily a bar (good beer, cocktails, natty wine and large sun terrace, too), Pearl’s plates menu is a colourful carte of, for example, spanakopita, merguez-stuffed onions or grilled artichokes with saffron aïoli. Neighbouring sister venue, Bench La Cave, is a daytime bakery, led by Dan Ward, and, at night, a wine bar serving Parisian-style grazing plates. pearlatparkhill.co.uk

HOT SEAT Bench Owners, chef Tom Aronica and drinks expert Jack Wakelin, are a dynamic duo. Their Nether Edge HQ , Bench, is the kind of cool and casual neighbourhood restaurant where on-point cocktails and interesting natural wines are served with unusually good, creative small plates. Think ember-roasted beetroot, blood orange and chimichurri, or cured trout, salted kohlrabi, roe and grapefruit. benchsheffield.co.uk

PIZZA PERFECTION Napoli Centro This cute, compact 16-seater pays homage to Naples in myriad colourful artefacts (from football scarves to vintage drinks ads) and memorable Neapolitan-style pizzas. Delicious to the last bite of their billowing cornicione rims, Napoli Centro’s 48-hour proved bases are topped with vibrant combinations such as fior di latte, capers, olive and anchovies or fennel sausage, friarelli, chilli flakes and smoked provola cheese. napolicentro.co.uk

STREET FOOD PARTY Peddler Market The once industrial area of Kelham Island and Neepsend is, these days, equally busy with bars, food venues, apartments and office space. Peddler Market is a monthly indoor-outdoor warehouse street food party with DJs, live music, artist-maker stalls and discerning booze options. In December, Peddler will host its 100th Sheffield event. peddler.market

PHOTOGRAPH: ELLIE GRACE PHOTOGRAPHY, INDIA HOBSON

TOAST OF THE TOWN Depot Bakery A neighbour of Peddler Market (where you will find Depot on coffee-and-cake duty), this industrial unit bakery-café is much loved for its sourdoughs and sweet bakes: from cinnamon brioche knots to an epic salted caramel brownie. Its diverting brunch dishes include, for example, brioche french toast with bacon, maple syrup and fried eggs, or eggs florentine. Depot has a second café venue in Hillsborough Park. thedepotbakery.co.uk

BASED IN MANCHESTER, TONY NAYLOR HAS SPENT OVER A DECADE WRITING ABOUT FOOD AND DRINK FOR A VARIETY OF NATIONAL OUTLETS INCLUDING OBSERVER FOOD MONTHLY, THE GUARDIAN AND RESTAURANT MAGAZINE. @NAYLOR_TONY

LOCAL LEGEND Ashoka

ARTISAN ACTION Leah’s Yard

HEADLINE FOOD HALL Cambridge Street Collective

Grade II-listed Leah’s Yard is now an attractive hub of modern independent endeavour, with food and drink a feature at Barks Wine Shop; beer shop slash micropub Hop Hideout and deli-café Mesters Market – showcase of local produce, Mesters Market includes the Marco @ Milano counter, where chef Marco Giove serves Italian sandwiches, pastas, risottos and more. Bean-to-bar chocolate maker, Bullion (which runs tours at its Kelham Island production facility) also has its Chocolate Bar café here. leahsyard.com

After impressing at Neepsend’s Cutlery Works, food hall creator, Blend, last year launched this three-storey, 1,200-seat, city centre extravaganza. 20 kitchens offer a smorgasbord of food options, from Ethiopia and Eritrean dishes (House of Habesha) to Greek pitta wraps (Gyros Express). Further entertainment runs from DJs and an augmentedreality darts zone, to kids’ crafting sessions and cooking classes at the Blend Culinary Foundation. cambridgestreetcollective.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: ELLIE GRACE PHOTOGRAPHY

Established in 1967, this distinctive Indian restaurant is, today, a spry, modern space. One that serves an innovative puri dish, seasoned with Sheffield’s beloved condiment, Henderson’s Relish, but which keeps it traditional where it matters. For example, using a charcoal-fired tandoor to cook its grilled meats. Expect dhals of soul-stirring depth and mains, from Persian-style lentils to a ‘railway’ curry of lamb and potatoes, which make deft, layered use of whole and freshly ground spices. ashoka1967.com

GOURMET ALL-DAY Elm By day this handsome space (raw plaster walls, stylish 20th-century furniture) serves great coffee, elevated grilled cheese sandwiches and tinned fish with sourdough toast and citrus-herb butters. At night (Wed-Sat), talented chef, Nathan Wall, offers a four- or seven-course menu of fascinating dishes. These have ranged from kombu-cured trout with roasted sesame, citrus ponzu, broccoli purée and radish, to a cheese scone with Sheffield honey and Baron Bigod cheese. elmsheffield.co.uk

FOODIE EXPERIENCES 1. JÖRO Luke French is that rare chef who, in tasting menu dishes of scallop with kampot pepper, aged beef fat, spruce and finger lime, or trout with kinome leaf and a sea buckthorn and yuzu kosho beurre blanc, can elicit excited double takes at his innovative deployment of flavours. Previously in the city centre, Jöro now has a semi-rural home at Oughtibridge Mill. This new site includes guest apartments, a bar (serving snacks) and an outdoor BBQ kitchen. jororestaurant.co.uk

2. Sheffield Beer Week

3. Public

Sheffield is one of Britain’s great beer cities, home to many charismatic pubs (three personal faves being Shakespeare’s, Rutland Arms and The Fat Cat) and acclaimed breweries ranging from evergreen cask beer ace Abbeydale to Saint Mars of the Desert, adventurers at beer’s creative outer reaches. Annually, in March, this abundance of great ale is celebrated in a week of tours, talks, tastings and food events. sheffieldbeerweek.co.uk

A former public toilet by the town hall, this small, subterranean space is now one of Britain’s best cocktail bars. Laid-back and coolly retromodern in its design, Public offers a very Sheffield take on cocktail culture. No bling, no gimmicks, no VIPs. Crisply executed drinks wow on quality and creative brainwaves such as drawing mango notes from raw butternut squash infusions, or adding savoury depth by washing bourbon with prosciutto fat. publicpublic.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPH: TIM GREEN PHOTOGRAPHY, ROB NICHOLSON PEDALO PHOTOGRAPHY, ELLIE GRACE PHOTOGRAPHY

FOODIE NEIGHBOURHOOD Sharrow Vale On and around Sharrow Vale Road, this inner suburb offers a concentrated cluster of indie shopping, green space (Endcliffe Park) and great food, from hip bakery, café and grocer Tonco, to legendary chip shop Two Steps, which dates to the 19th century. Foodies can fill their totes at Porter Brook Deli, discerning wine, spirit and beer store Starmore Boss, or coffee roaster and speciality tea retailer Pollards, on Ecclesall Road. Look out for Sharrow Vale Market (next on 30 November), too. Refuel as you go with a flat white (Corner Store or Porter Coffee), exceptional doughnuts at bakery-café Eve Kitchen, a glass of wine at The Harritt or pints in the charming The Beer House or fellow micropub, Loxley Brewery’s No 3 Sharrow. At fishmonger JH Mann you can buy fresh fish and eat lunch (Tue-Sat, 11am-3pm). Choose your seafood and have it cooked and served with sides of, for example, salt cod mash, lobster sauce, dhal or seasonal vegetables. Looking for brunch? Local fave, Made by Jonty, has you covered. Later, head to Porter Pizza (for stellar Neapolitan-style pizza) or Six and a Half, a hot 2025 opening where live-fire cooking creates dishes such as harissa venison with mint yogurt and crispy spiced onions.

NEIGHBOURHOOD SPOTLIGHT Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia The preserved shophouses and bustling alleys of historic Chinatown are filled with vibrant street food vendors, cafés and bars Words RANIE SAIDI

NEIGHBOURHOOD CIRCUIT

Mee Tarik

KafeiDian – Jalan Panggong

I love watching fresh, hand-pulled noodles being made at this restaurant. There are more than 20 types of noodle dishes available, from cold noodles to classic soups. Sit outside on low plastic chairs and take in the everyday scenes. While waiting, snack on dumplings, shredded cold potato or seaweed green bean salad. A cup of chilled chrysanthemum tea cuts through it all, floral and subtle. This is one of the best halal spots around, with a separate broth just for vegetarians. Follow on Instagram @meetarikjalansultan.

This kopitiam, housed in a restored heritage building, was a post office until 1911. Back then people queued for long-awaited letters from overseas. The queue’s still here but now it’s for breakfast. Step inside and it still feels like pre-colonial Malaya. Try kaya toast on charcoal-grilled bread, self-timed half-boiled eggs, Kuala Lumpur coffee tarik (coffee with condensed milk) or the butter peanut bun toast (crunchy salted peanut brittles with half-melted sugar and butter). Follow on Instagram @kafeidian_petalingstreet.

Kim Soya Bean

Chocha Foodstore

The Attic Bar

The main attraction of Petaling Street is its bustling market. From local fruits to everyday goods it’s where locals pause, whether on their way home or seeking shelter from a sudden downpour. One must-try is Kim Soya Bean’s tau foo fah – a silky, chilled soy bean pudding with gula melaka syrup. Interaction here is minimal but genuine, exchanged in nods and quick smiles, as the rhythm of daily life hums beneath the market’s lively buzz.

The food here? Sexy. Local kampung ingredients turned into something special. The cincalok fried chicken is a must – cincalok, a fermented shrimp condiment from Malacca, brings a punch of saltiness that pairs beautifully with the crisp batter. Then there’s the soft and nostalgic bahulu, Malaysia’s answer to madeleines. The menu shifts with the seasons, always keeping things fresh. chochafoodstore.com

This speakeasy rooftop bar is one of Petaling Street’s best kept secrets for sunset views. From first-class vistas of Malaysia’s tallest buildings to some of Kuala Lumpur’s best vantage points, it’s the perfect spot to catch up with friends and unwind with live music. Tuak – a traditional fermented rice wine, sweet and slightly tangy – is a distinctive part of Malaysia’s drinks culture thanks to its unique flavour and heritage. It’s a rare find so ordering it is a must. atticbarkl.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: OH CHIN ENG, ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, RANIE SAIDI

3 DISHES TO TRY IN KUALA LUMPUR Nasi lemak

Briyani johor

Cendol

People queue day and night at Nasi Lemak Wanjo to try crispy Malay fried chicken and fiery sambal prawns, as well as Malaysia’s national dish, nasi lemak. Traditionally it was a humble farmer’s meal made with coconut rice, sambal, crispy anchovies, toasted peanuts and boiled egg to provide energy for a long day’s work. Over time it became a culinary icon representing the heart of Malay heritage. facebook.com/ nasilemakwanjoofficial

Malay cooking is diverse, shaped over centuries by global influences. One dish that carries this legacy is briyani johor, from the southern tip of Peninsular Malaysia. At Briyani Gam An-Nur, rice and spiced meat are cooked in one pot, sealed using a ‘gam’ technique (flour and water acting like glue to trap steam, letting the flavours absorb into the rice). It’s served with dhal curry and acar buah (spiced fruit pickles). Pair with local iced tea or rose syrup. wasep.me/annur-briyani-muorkampung-baru

Cendol, an iced dessert, is made with pandanflavoured rice jelly, red beans, sweetcorn, palm sugar syrup and slightly salty coconut milk, and it gets an extra boost when paired with durian. The cool cendol combined with durian’s bold flavour creates a contrast that’s surprisingly addictive (to some). Try it at Cendol Durian Kambung Baru – it’s something you’ll try once out of curiosity and remember for a lifetime. Follow on Instagram @cendol_durian_ kampung_baru.

RANIE SAIDI IS A LONDON-BASED RECIPE DEVELOPER AND FOUNDER OF THE MALAY COOK SUPPERCLUB, CELEBRATING HIS MALAYSIAN MALAY HERITAGE AND THE EVERYDAY MALAY DISHES HIS GRANDMOTHER, A WEDDING CATERING COOK, MADE WHILE HE WAS GROWING UP. @RANIESAIDI

PRO VS PUNTER

OSTERIA ANGELINA Critic KS Tong and an O reader compare notes on this new east London restaurant with a unique Italian-Japanese menu

steria Angelina sees founders Joshua Owens-Baigler, Amar Takhar and Laura Horta (the team behind the much-loved Angelina in Dalston) bring their take on Itameshi (Italian food made with Japanese ingredients and influences) to the heart of the City of London. Set in a converted warehouse on the border of Spitalfields and Shoreditch, expect a menu that embraces the traditional osteria style of northern Italy, with a lively à la carte menu that focusses on fresh pastas with a Japanese twist, as well as Italian- and Japanese-inspired big-cut binchōtan grill dishes. Alongside this is a comprehensive wine list featuring more than 300 bottles from across Italy’s diverse landscape, plus a carefully curated sake menu and creative cocktail list. angelina.london/osteria

Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the City by day but spends his free time exploring and eating wherever his palate takes him. From street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, nothing is off the table, and he shares it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here.

Our pro says Step into this industrial chic renovated Victorian warehouse and it immediately hits you: this place is lively. The dining room can fit 75 but it doesn’t take much to create a cosy atmosphere. But add to this the sizzling big cuts hitting the binchōtan-fired grills in the open kitchen, clang of metal hitting wood in the fresh pasta room and clinking of glassware as the waiter navigates through the 21-page Italian-centric wine list, and you’ve boarded a one-way train to sensory overload. Sequels aren’t easy but at Osteria Angelina the talented trio of Josh, Amar and Laura have managed to nail it, taking all the strengths of their successful kaiseki menu at Angelina in Dalston and turning it up a notch. Here they’ve created a more relaxed à la carte offering centred around pastas and charcoal-grilled sharing plates with big energy and bold flavours, while still retaining their Italian-Japanese identity. And there’s no better way to start this journey than with the nori focaccia and/or Hokkaido milk bread with kumquat and burnt honey butter – all baked in-house daily and truly a sign of things to come. A brief detour through the crudo section – where the delicate hamachi sashimi, truffle soy and furikake is a touch of class – we arrive at the fresh pasta course, which is a key offering of the restaurant. Guests are invited to watch the chefs at work making pasta in a dedicated, glass-partitioned section of the dining room. The offering will change regularly but if you happen upon the truffle and kombu tortelloni, I thoroughly recommend it. The other focal point of the restaurant is the big plate offering from the binchōtan-fired grills, where the Blythburgh pork chop brushed with tare (Japanese dipping sauces often used in grilling) went down a treat alongside a riesling from the Piedmont region. If you make it to the dolci, get the brûlée black sesame cheesecake with house-made milk gelato – you won’t be disappointed. TOTAL BILL FOR TWO £154.13, including 12.5% service ATMOSPHERE 8/10 SERVICE 8/10 FOOD 9/10 76

Jasmine Doyle is an attractions contractor from Harrow. Her favourite cuisine is Japanese and her most memorable meal was a first date at Chotto Matte.

Our punter says There’s something quietly cool about Osteria Angelina, blending warehouse chic with soft intimacy. A monochrome palette, exposed brick and industrial finishes are softened by low lighting, elegant touches and a glowing open kitchen. The atmosphere buzzes without being loud or overbearing, and watching fresh pasta being made in the glass-walled pasta lab is a real bonus. The menu is a bold, playful fusion of Italian and Japanese influences. It reads intriguingly and delivers on its promises. We started with the Hokkaido milk bread, warm and pillowy with apricot and burnt honey butter – its subtle spicy kick made it vanish fast. Courgette trifolati with ricotta and shiso was a surprise standout, being light and quietly moreish. The cod cheek karaage with wasabi tobiko had great crunch and clean wasabi heat. The fazzoletti with duck ragù and lotus was silky, and had brightness from the lotus. Agnolotti filled with crab and sausage was rich but well balanced, while the Church Hill chicken was tender with a great char, and was paired with Namayasai greens that provided zesty contrast. Dessert was a black sesame brûlée cheesecake with matcha gelato – the bold flavours might not be for everyone but we found it smoky, slightly bitter and unexpectedly harmonious. Staff were warm and knowledgeable, and happy to guide us through the more adventurous dishes. For cooking this refined and creative, it feels like excellent value. Osteria Angelina doesn’t just fuse cuisines, it finds real synergy between them. TOTAL BILL FOR TWO £123.06, including 12.5% service ATMOSPHERE 9/10 SERVICE 9/10 FOOD 9/10

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THE MEASURE Dive into autumn with amaretto cocktails, Irish whiskies and our favourite on-trend wine bars Words HANNAH GUINNESS

INGREDIENT COCKTAIL Amaretto old fashioned

Put 1 tbsp of amaretto and a couple of dashes of Angostura bitters into an old fashioned glass and stir. Fill the glass with ice and pour over 50-60ml of bourbon. Stir well. Garnish with Luxardo maraschino cherries and serve.

IRISH WHISKIES TO TRY That Boutique-y Whiskey Company Irish Whiskey 21 Year Old (£99.95/70cl, masterofmalt.com)

Two Stacks Whiskey Fruit Drops Apricot Brandy Cask Finish (£37.50/70cl, The Whisky Exchange)

Saints & Sinners & Rebels & Rogues 21 Year Old Irish Whiskey (£89.95/ 70cl, masterofmalt.com)

Matured for more than two decades in ex-oloroso and bourbon casks, this is a mellow, well-balanced whiskey with a heady character, brimming with fruits, vanilla, butterscotch and baking spice.

A fresh, modern blended Irish whiskey finished in apricot brandy casks. This lends the spirit intense flavours and aromas: bright, juicy apricot alongside almond, marzipan and danish pastry notes.

A blended whiskey matured in madeira casks, this is a very drinkable spirit with a nose full of baked orchard fruits and rich, opulent flavours including sultanas, orange peel and spice.

COCKTAIL PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: JESSICA MCINTOSH. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: WE THE FOOD SNOBS, JOANA FREITAS

Amaretto is a sweet, almond-flavoured Italian liqueur that is most famously used in an amaretto sour but also pairs really well with dark spirits like whisky. Here we’ve used it in an old fashioned to add a lush, nutty tinge to the drink that makes it perfect for sipping after dinner.

La Compagnie Neal’s Yard Covent Garden, London A stylish little wine bar hidden away in Neal’s Yard, La Compagnie has been a fixture on London’s new-wave wine bar scene since 2014 and is set across two floors and a terrace, the latter a lovely spot for drinking in warmer weather. compagniewinebar.com What to order The focus is very much on smaller producers and hard-to-find bottles, with friendly staff on hand to make suggestions. There’s a hefty slab of a menu to investigate but there’s also an impressively lengthy list of wines by the glass – perfect for trying lots of different things, from a Macedonian xinomavro red to Jura chardonnay. Don’t miss out on European small plates including buttery drunken scallops and torched mackerel with endive.

BAR HOPPER

New-wave wine bars Choice spots for sipping a glass of something delicious

Cave Bristol On Bristol’s Gloucester Road, Cave’s bright blue frontage hosts both wine shop and a relaxed bar and bistro. Our wine writer, Kate Hawkings, says it’s her favourite wine bar in the city, with “really good wines from interesting producers, lovely and very knowledgeable staff, and fantastic food”. cavebristol.co.uk What to order Cave specialises in carefully sourced yet affordably priced organic, low-intervention and biodynamic wines. The list of what’s on offer is ever changing, with plenty by the glass, plus chef Charlie Hearn’s simple, seasonal, Gallic-inspired fare.

Prado Wine Bar Lisbon Head to the city’s Baixa district for this chic little wine bar, just around the corner from light and bright sister restaurant Prado. Inside it’s got beautiful tiled floors, counter and communal seating, with sage walls and shelves temptingly lined with bottles. pradowinebar.com What to order It’s an all-Portuguese offering with a spotlight on organic and natural bottles. Wines by the glass are chalked up on a blackboard and if you like anything you can buy a bottle to take home with you. The bar, like its sister restaurant, also champions the country’s best food producers – highlights include Portuguese cold cuts and cheeses, tinned fish and fresh oysters with chilli.

The experts in your pocket Try exclusive recipes from the best chefs and writers of the moment, including Sabrina Ghayour, Brin Pirathapan and Chetna Makan on the Good Food app

The Good Food app is my go-to source for inspiration, recipes and menu planning Claire

Download today and access over 17,000 recipes, meal plans and exclusive celebrity chef content, all within one trusted app. 80

WINE

101

SWISS WINE

with Kate Hawkings Wines from Switzerland are well worth seeking out for their rare indigenous grapes and distinctive sense of terroir

What’s special about Swiss wine? The majority of Switzerland’s wine is made in the French-speaking part of the country. The Rhône rises high in the Alps and transverses Valais, the largest wine region, before it flows into France. Immediately to the west is Vaux, hugging beautiful Lake Geneva and home to the steep UNESCOlisted Lavaux vineyards where all the work has to be done by hand. The emphasis across the country is very much on quality not quantity, and prices reflect this. The best value for introductory wines are to be found from co-operatives, which make wines with grapes bought from many growers and so can achieve economies of scale.

THE FINER DETAILS

The distinctive Swiss way of winemaking is to allow most of its whites to go through malolactic fermentation (MLF), when the tart-tasting malic acid is converted into lactic acid after the alcoholic fermentation is complete, reducing the wine’s acidity and giving a creaminess to its texture. Switzerland is a country of small growers, respectful of their heritage and often using organic or biodynamic practices. Although it is still a male-dominated country

Main grapes

White chasselas, petite arvine, amigne, doral, heida (savagnin), chardonnay, sauvignon blanc Red gamaret, garanoir, cornalin, galotta, pinot noir, gamay, merlot, syrah

Perfect pairings Chasselas, accounting for nearly 30% of total plantings, has naturally low acidity and usually goes through full malolactic fermentation so is best suited to earthy or creamy food. Reds tend to be quite elegant with plenty of fruit and bright acidity, which makes them very versatile and food-friendly, as good with a tomato pasta sauce as they are with game dishes or a robust veggie bake.

(women only gained full voting rights in 1990), there is now an impressive roster of female winemakers, many who’ve taken over their family’s estates. With a total vineyard area about half the size of Burgundy, Swiss wines are thin on the ground, and only 2% of the production is exported. They can be hard to find in the UK so look to specialist importers for the best choices – try Alpine Wines (alpinewines.co.uk) and the Swiss Wine Company (swisswinecompany.co.uk).

ILLUSTRATION: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE

Where to stayy Domaine de la Crausaz Domaine de la Crausaz was founded in 1515 and is set among the stunning, steep vineyards in the pretty vintners’ village of Grandvaux. It has six stylish and well-appointed apartments, and a gorgeous terrace with fabulous views across Lake

Geneva and the mountains, where you can taste local wines and enjoy excellent food from a short menu that includes traditional fondue. Don’t miss the wonderful Sunday brunch. Grandvaux is just 10 minutes by train from Lausanne, a lovely city to visit in its own right. lacrausaz.ch

3 PRODUCERS TO TRY Cave de la Côte Doral Expression (£31.75, alpinewines.co.uk) Cave de la Côte uses grapes from more than 300 growers in Vaud to make its wide range of wines, including this rare doral, a new, eco-friendly cross between chardonnay and chasselas. It is very aromatic with lychee and dried mango, and a bit of spice – but it has no MLF so it retains a bright, crystalline freshness.

Domaines Rouvinez Black Nose (£22, yorkshirevintners.co.uk) From a family-owned producer going back four generations, this is named after the sheep that graze between the vines to keep weeds at bay and provide natural fertiliser. A blend of merlot, gamaret and syrah, with lots of pure elderberry fruit, a slight smokiness and a refreshingly tart snap. Very distinctive and very delicious.

Treize Étoiles Fendant (£18, yorkshirevintners.co.uk) From Caves Orsat, the biggest co-operative in Valais, working with more than 1,000 growers and making some very good, well-priced wines. Fendant is the local name for Chasselas and here goes through full malolactic fermentation giving texture and balance to its attractive floral fruitiness and pleasingly salty finish.

• Become a wine expert at Omagazine.com, with tips on must-try grapes and bottles, and the best vineyards to visit KATE HAWKINGS IS A WRITER AND WINE CONSULTANT. HER LATEST BOOK, THE LITTLE BOOK OF APERITIFS: 50 CLASSIC COCKTAILS AND DELIGHTFUL DRINKS, IS OUT NOW (£10, QUADRILLE). FOLLOW HER ON INSTAGRAM @KATEHAWKINGS. 81

THINGS I LOVE ABOUT

Tuscany

Masha Rener, executive chef of Lina Stores, shares what makes the cuisine of this Italian region so special – plus, discover where to eat and stay while you’re there

Tortello maremmano Tortello maremmano is a typical Tuscan pasta course. Large squares of pasta are pinched together with a filling of fresh ricotta and swiss chard or borage. The extra-large size means you get two to three per serving and the creamy filling is the star, usually served with sage butter or wild boar ragu.

Pici all’aglione Pici is a popular pasta shape in Tuscany, made simply with water and flour (no eggs) and rolled into long noodles by hand for a hearty, chewy texture. In Val di Chiana, in the southern part of Tuscany, a typical way to serve pici is in pici all’aglione. Local Aglione garlic is sliced and cooked slowly in a light tomato sauce and finished with pecorino.

Salami Tuscany has a huge culture around pork and cured meats, particularly salami. Bread is traditionally unsalted, so the salamis and prosciutto are often saltier than in other regions in Italy. Finocchiona is a signature of the region made using the flowers from wild fennel, which have a more intense anise flavour than fennel seeds.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, VLAD NANAU/500PX/GETTY

Beans A variety of beans (such as chickpeas and cannellini beans) are the backbone of Tuscan cuisine, used to bulk out stews, soups and salads. Fagioli al fiasco is one of my favourite ways of serving cannellini beans, where the dried beans are cooked slowly over a low heat in a glass bottle with sage, olive oil and water, and then served direct from the glass spout.

Coastal cuisine The important harbours of the Tuscan coast have diverse food influences from the different cultures that have arrived there over the centuries. Baccalà alla livornese, from Livorno, uses cubes of fried salt cod (with origins from Norway) cooked in tomato sauce, while cacciucco alla livornese is a rich tomato fish soup designed to use up left-over fish from the markets.

Chianina beef Chianina is the type of cow that produces the famous bistecca alla Fiorentina – the impressive grilled T-bone steak you’ll find on many restaurant menus in Florence and across Tuscany. Tuscans are extremely proud of the Chianina cow: a festival in Siena even opens with four cows parading through the city to signal their key cultural role.

Brigidini Brigidini have been around in Tuscany since the 16th century, first made by nuns at the Santa Brigida convent in Pistoia. You’ll find these delicate biscuits almost everywhere at fairs and festivals. A bit like an ice cream wafer, brigidini are made with sugar, 00 flour and eggs – but the secret ingredient is aniseed which gives the biscuits their distinct flavour.

After-dinner treats After dinner, while the conversation is still flowing, Tuscans traditionally serve almond-based cantucci, perfect for dipping in small glasses of sweet dessert wine such as vin santo.

Panzanella In the Tuscan method, soaked bread is mixed with dressing and vegetables. The dressing should use good white vinegar (not balsamic), olive oil and salt but the rest of the salad can use up whatever vegetables you have – tomatoes, cucumber, celery, even carrots.

Chianti Rolling hills of vineyards are part of the definitive image of Tuscany, which produces some of Italy’s best wines. Chianti is the signature of the region, grown in the mountainous regions around Florence, Siena and Abruzzo.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Turn the page for O’s tips on where to eat and stay in Tuscany

BORN AND RAISED IN A REMOTE VALLEY ON THE BORDER BETWEEN TUSCANY AND UMBRIA, MASHA RENER GREW UP ON HER PARENTS’ ORGANIC FARM, RESTAURANT AND HOTEL. SHE WENT ON TO OPEN THE FIRST LINA STORES RESTAURANT WITH THE ICONIC SOHO ITALIAN DELI AND IS NOW EXECUTIVE CHEF FOR THE BRAND. @MASHA_RENER

Amorini Panini E Vino, Florence A must visit in Florence – it has the best sandwiches with a huge range of flavours to choose from, in either panini or focaccia form. @amorinipaninievino

Gilda, Forte dei Marmi Check out the beach clubs of chic seaside town Forte dei Marmi, then pause for lunch at this restaurant on the beach for fresh daily caught seafood. gildafortedeimarmi.com

Vini e Vecchi Sapori, Florence Locals and tourists alike congregate at this quirky Florentine osteria for hearty home-cooked dishes such as duck ragu, saffron-flecked paccheri pasta and beef stewed in red wine and black pepper. Don’t miss the raspberry tiramisu for dessert. @vini_e_vecchi_sapori

Hotel La Guardia, Isola del Giglio Located on the Isola del Giglio (one of the most beautiful islands off the coast of Tuscany), enjoy aperitivo or a candle-lit dinner on the terrace with views of the sea and the old village. laguardiahotel.it

PHOTOGRAPHS: FANI KURTI

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

WHERE TO STAY Villa La Massa Just 15 minutes from Florence’s bustling centre, this riverside 16thcentury estate welcomes guests with the heady scent of jasmine, lemon trees and roses. Despite its grandeur, Villa La Massa is laid back, calm and homely with artisan touches throughout, from hand-knotted rugs crafted by an 80-year-old local tapestry master to traditional key charms instead of modern keycards. The property has 54 unique rooms across six buildings, from the main Noble Villa mansion to a riverside suite and a beautifully converted farmhouse. Il Verrocchio restaurant offers traditional Tuscan dishes with a contemporary twist such as Florentine T-bone steak, duck ravioli and tagliolini with roasted tomatoes, while L’Oliveto Bistrot focusses on more casual dining featuring the likes of fresh salads, carpaccio and pizzas. Don’t miss rosemary-studded focaccia or pici pasta, a handrolled speciality. Breakfast unfolds as a celebration of regional delicacies such as focaccia, coconut and cinnamon paradise cake, freshly squeezed orange juice and tables positioned to capture the morning sun dancing across the river’s surface. villalamassa.com

Il Borro Il Borro is a true working 1,100-hectare estate in Valdarno valley – a wilder, more rustic corner of Tuscany. The hotel itself is set in the remains of a medieval village in the centre of the estate. Stay in one of the hotel suites nestled in the ancient buildings or, for more of a countryside experience, there are stand-alone villas and farmhouses that come with infinity pools, vine-covered terraces and dining rooms where you can whip up your own meals. There is a true farm-to-table philosophy here – olive groves provide oil, vineyards ensure the cellars are well stocked with own-label wine and fields of buckwheat are a playground for honeybees, plus organic tomato vines, courgettes, pumpkins, green beans and melons provide the hotel’s three restaurants with the ultimate kitchen garden. The buffet breakfast is also exceptional – so abundant that sweet and savoury options are housed in separate rooms. Guests visiting in autumn can take part in unique activities including grape and olive harvesting, and vineyard feasts. ilborro.it

COOK LIKE A LOCAL

Azerbaijan

Azeri cuisine is all about filling the table with different dishes, including a celebratory yogurt soup and pomegranate-infused tomato salad Words and recipes ANNA ANSARI Photographs LAURA EDWARDS

ou could forgive a first-time visitor to Azerbaijan, fresh off the plane in Baku (psst – it’s an easy five-hour direct flight from London), for mistakenly thinking they’d stumbled into a celebration when they sit down for their first in-country meal. Whether at a local’s home or in a restaurant, meals in Azerbaijan are no paltry affairs. You’re likely to find, even for a simple afternoon tea break, tables heavy with multiple plates. For breakfast or brunch this will likely mean pomidor yumurta (eggs with tomato), spinach chigirtma and/or narnumru (eggs and pomegranate), a platter of cheeses, a dish heaped with raw herbs, cucumber and tomatoes, a few bowls of yogurt, possibly a tomato salad (that’s my family’s move), probably honey and some jams, perhaps some olives – and definitely some freshfrom-the-tendir flatbread. And tea, of course. Always. Lunch and dinner are similarly, if not far more, bountiful than the Azeri morning repast. Alongside the omnipresent herbs, tomato and cucumber platter, yogurt and cheeses, and fresh flatbread, you’re bound to find at least one wrapped or stuffed offering (I’m a particular fan of the diminutive pip dolma – morsels of spiced minced lamb wrapped in laurel leaves), a rice or noodle dish (or two), a raw tomato or grilled aubergine salad (or three), pickles, a few plates of fresh, seasonally appropriate fruit (don’t sleep on Azerbaijan’s wild spring strawberries) and at least one each of soup, fish and meat. When it comes to soups, I’m partial to dovga, a yogurty, herby version served in spring, summer and at wedding celebrations, as well as piti, a chestnut and lamb stew from the northern town of Sheki. I also love fish or chicken lavangi, a preparation native to the country’s southern Lankaran region that involves a rich and flavourful pomegranate and walnut stuffing, as well as minced beef or lamb lula kebab, and a chicken and egg combo known as chicken chigirtma. Luckily Baku’s best restaurants (and homes) feature not only the capital city’s specialities (Baku’s take on dumplings, gurza, are delicately braided beauties that shouldn’t be missed) but also regional delights, which is a boon if your only stop in the Land of Eternal Fire is the Paris of the East. You’re likely going to be eating these feasts overlooking the glittering Caspian Sea and boulevards lined with intricate Italianate mansions built by 20th-century oil magnates, or in restored Silk Roads trading caravanserai. A magical, extraordinary cuisine in a magical, extraordinary country – or now, happily, in your kitchen.

Azeri tomato salad Azeris love walnuts. And I love this salad which has walnuts in it. The sweet juices of the tomatoes mix with pomegranate juice, walnuts, flat-leaf parsley, red onion and nothing else. No oil. No vinegar. A salad of pure alchemy, pure harmony. A surprise. A revelation.

½ red onion, peeled 7g flat-leaf parsley, plus extra to serve 75ml pomegranate juice ½ tbsp pomegranate molasses 500g whole walnuts, plus extra to serve 750g mixed ripe tomatoes (large ones cut into full circles or chunky wedges, smaller ones quartered or halved) handful of pomegranate seeds, to serve sea salt flakes

1 Combine the onion, parsley (stems included), pomegranate juice and molasses in a food processor. 2 Blend on a high speed until everything is well mixed, then add the walnuts. Pulse 6-10 times or until the nuts have broken down into small gravel-sized pieces – you want them to have a bit of a bite so try not to blend them into a paste. 3 Put the tomatoes in a large bowl and pour the blended walnut mixture over them. Mix well and, if you can, let the salad sit for an hour or two so that the tomatoes release more of their juices. 4 Toss the salad once more, before garnishing with additional parsley and walnuts, as well as the pomegranate seeds and a sprinkling of sea salt flakes to taste. PER SERVING (6) 627 kcals | fat 57G | saturates 6G carbs 10G | sugars 9G | fibre 5G | protein 15G | salt 0.1G

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: ANNA ANSARI, SANTIAGO URQUIJO, AYHAN ALTUN/MOMENT/GETTY, ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE | PREP 15 MINS PLUS SITTING EASY | V GF

Dovga Azeri (warm yogurt soup) This Azeri yogurt soup also happens to be a wedding soup. How’s that for refined and special? And, while it can be and sometimes is eaten cold, dovga’s default temperature is warm. You read that correctly. This is a warm yogurt soup. And it’s weird and wonderful, and kind of a game-changer. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY | V

750g full-fat plain yogurt 1 egg, beaten 1 tbsp chickpea flour or plain flour (use chickpea flour to make this gluten-free) 70-100g risotto rice 80g spinach, chopped 75g fresh mixed herbs, chopped (such as dill, parsley, chives, coriander, tarragon and mint – if using the final two, discard their stems), plus extra to serve 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed dried chilli flakes, to serve (optional)

1 In a medium heavy-based pan, whisk together the yogurt, egg, flour and rice. Put the pan over a medium heat and gradually add 950ml of water. Stir constantly (otherwise the yogurt will curdle and split) for 10-15 mins until the mixture comes to a gentle boil. 2 Once the mixture is bubbling, reduce the heat to low and add the spinach, herbs and chickpeas. Let the soup simmer for 15 mins, stirring frequently, or until the rice is cooked through. 3 Don’t add salt or pepper to the soup until you’re about to eat it, as the salt could cause the yogurt to curdle. Enjoy warm or cold, topped with salt and pepper to taste, some more fresh herbs and chilli flakes. PER SERVING (6) 219 kcals | fat 6G | saturates 3G carbs 26G | sugars 10G | fibre 3G | protein 13G | salt 0.4G

Spinach chigirtma (Azeri spinach and eggs) While scholarship has stumbled over the precise date and means of spinach’s transmission from West to East, it is generally accepted that the so-called “chieftain of leafy greens” (as spinach was dubbed by the 12th-century Arab-Andalusian agriculturalist Ibn al-’Awwãm) arrived in China, in seed form, from Iran via Nepal in the middle of the 7th century CE. Special and rare enough to be sent as tribute from the Nepalese king to the Tang Court in Chang’an, spinach is now a mainstay on tables across the world. SERVES 2-4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY | V

4 eggs 300g frozen chopped spinach 4 tbsp ghee or 60g unsalted butter 1 onion, finely diced flaky sea salt flakes aleppo chilli flakes or dried chilli flakes bread and cheese, to serve (optional)

1 Crack the eggs into a small bowl. Add ½ tsp each of salt and pepper, and use a fork to lightly whisk the eggs. 2 Fill a medium pan with water and bring it to the boil over a high heat. Cook the spinach for 3 mins then drain in a fine mesh sieve. Press down on the spinach with the back of a wooden spoon to get as much moisture out as possible. 3 Melt the ghee or butter in a medium lidded non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onion along with ¼ tsp each of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-7 mins or just long enough for the onion to turn golden brown. 4 Meanwhile, press down further on the spinach to get some more liquid out – use your hands if it’s cool enough. 5 Reduce the heat to low and add the spinach to the onions, along with ¼ tsp of salt. Mix together the spinach and onions well, and cook for 2 mins, stirring frequently, before flattening out the mixture across the centre of the pan. 6 Add the eggs, spreading them out evenly across and through the spinach in the centre. Cover the pan and cook for 6-7 mins or until the eggs are set. 7 Transfer to a serving plate and top with sea salt flakes and chilli flakes to taste. Serve with bread and cheese, or enjoy as part of a brunch spread. PER SERVING (4) 236 kcals | fat 20G | saturates 10G carbs 3G | sugars 2G | fibre 3G | protein 9G | salt 1.5G

Recipes extracted from Silk Roads: A Flavour Odyssey with Recipes from Baku to Beijing by Anna Ansari, out 9 October (£27, DK RED). Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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PANEER AND BROCCOLI DHAL BOWL Make a big batch of dhal to freeze or stash a couple of ready-made pouches in the cupboard, then whip up this easy topping Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph ANT DUNCAN

SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS COOK 10 MINS | EASY | V 225g block of paneer ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp ground cumin 200g long-stemmed broccoli groundnut or rapeseed oil ½ tsp cumin seeds ½ tsp mustard seeds ½ tsp dried chilli flakes 250g pouch of dhal (we used Leon golden dhal) red chilli, sliced (optional)

1 Toss the paneer with the ground spices and season with salt and pepper. Cook the broccoli in boiling salted water or in the microwave until just tender but still bright green. 2 Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a pan and cook the paneer on all sides until golden. Scoop out of the pan then add the whole spices with another 1 tbsp of oil. Sizzle for 2-3 mins then tip in the broccoli and cook for 2-3 mins. 3 Heat the dhal then divide between two bowls. Top with the paneer and broccoli, and red chilli, if you like. PER SERVING 570 kcals | fat 38G | saturates 20G carbs 15G | sugars 4G | fibre 7G | protein 37G | salt 0.8G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY