Olive_November2025 by Immediate Media Company London Ltd.

O NOVEMBER 2025

FOOD | TRAVEL | WELLBEING NOVEMBER 2025

Comforting all-day bakes

CARIBBEAN FLAVOUR

Discover the vibrant culture of Puerto Rico

RISE AND SHINE

Healthy habits to reclaim your mornings

GBP £6.25

Crunchy nut and milk chocolate tart

FOOD | TRAVEL | WELLBEING

+ EDD KIMBER’S BROWN BUTTER MISO TREACLE TART + VENISON PASTITSIO STICKY DATE PUDDING + FRAGRANT DUMPLING AND NOODLE BROTH

CAN $15 AUS $15.50

KEEMA CHAAT SMASH TACOS, COCONUT FLAN, MAURITIAN CHILLI CAKES, ITALIAN BREAKFAST CAKE, TERIYAKI SWEDE BOWLS

SEASONAL TREATS

Sweet dreams

Welcome

COOK THE COVER Find the recipe on page 16

This rich indulgent tart uses a clever cheat for a crunchy, nutty crust.

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRIS TERRY, GETTY IMAGES

hings I love about November: chilly autumnal walks, a pub with an open fire, cosy nights in and the official beginning of pie season. With full-on winter just around the corner, this issue we are embracing those recipes that feel like a warm hug after a long day. From Helen Goh’s beautiful sweet and savoury bakes to our indulgent chocolate cover star, these are the dishes that will bring joy. Out of season travel has always appealed to me (no crowds or fighting for a table in your favourite restaurant) and places like Spain and Greece take on a whole new character in the cooler months. Check out our recs on p74. If the darker mornings find you struggling, why not try adopting some habits to help you have a better start to the day so you feel grounded, energised and ready to take on whatever lies ahead – find our expert guide on p50.

Janine Ratcliffe, deputy magazines editor @Omagazine @missj9

HOW TO CONTACT US EDITORIAL TEAM OF THE YEAR O magazine and Good Food

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NOVEMBER contents

inspiration

The hot list Trends expert Gurdeep’s latest foodie hotspot, a twist on a smash taco plus homewares and cookbooks for your wishlist.

Kitchen shelf Our pick of this month’s must-try new food and drink products.

discover

All-day comfort Helen Goh’s inventive

Signature dishes British-Mauritian chef Shelina Permalloo’s vibrant recipes.

3 ways with walnuts Add a depth of flavour with this versatile nut.

Cook like a local Try out the communal Easy wins A fragrant dumpling and noodle broth using frozen gyoza as a clever shortcut.

Bolthole breaks Boost your wellbeing The O guide to Perthshire The best of this fast growing Scottish foodie scene.

Cook in season Dishes to celebrate pears, apples, venison, swede and mushrooms. sweet and savoury bakes.

Head chef Martin Louzao shares food and culture highlights from his island home.

and book into a relaxing retreat this winter.

with a crunchy, nutty crust.

Wellbeing Ten pre-work habits to set you up for a more productive day.

10 things I love about Puerto Rico

sharing dishes of Northern Thailand.

cook On the cover Try this rich indulgent tart

childhood favourite with an umami boost.

Modern baking Edd Kimber elevates a

& don’t miss 14

Subscription offer Treat yourself or a loved one to a six-month O magazine subscription for just £20!

Reader offer Dine and stay at Michelin-

4 great getaways Discover a quieter side to Europe’s popular destinations in autumn.

starred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.

Pro vs punter Our critic and a reader try a historic pub turned Italian restaurant.

Reader offer Save on beautiful festive holly trees for your Christmas doorway.

The measure Try a rum manhattan and discover the best listening bars to visit.

Wine 101 Expert Kate Hawkings delves into ancient Lebanese viticulture and the fine wines of the Bekaa Valley.

Coming next month Find out what’s in store for your bumper new-look Christmas issue of O.

RECIPE INDEX

Starters, sides and drinks

Vegetables

36 Chilli cakes (gato pima) with tomato chilli chutney 47 Cumin-roasted carrots and bulgur salad with sticky spiced walnuts and feta 78 Spiced rum manhattan

34 Mauritian butter bean curry (cari gros pois) 38 Mauritian magic bowl (bol devire) 22 Peppery wild mushroom pappardelle 88 Pumpkin curry (gaeng fak thong) 20 Teriyaki swede bowls

Mains

Breakfast, bakes and puddings

Meat 92 Crying tiger beef salad (yum nua seua rong hai) 9 Keema chaat smash tacos 90 Larb muang 18 Venison pastitsio

Birds 98 Fragrant dumpling and noodle broth

Fish and seafood 42 Walnut, anchovy, chard and goat’s cheese pasta

24 Autumn fruit salad with pomegranate dressing 56 Beans on toast 48 Brown butter miso treacle tart 44 Brown butter, walnut and caramelised white chocolate cookies 40 Coconut flan 16 Crunchy nut and milk chocolate tart 28 Dutch baby pancake with mortadella and rocket 26 Italian breakfast cake with olive oil and polenta 30 Pear, pepper and parmesan cake 55 Sardines on toast 52 Spinach omelette 32 Sticky date pudding with miso butterscotch 53 Sweet and sour lentil shakshuka

bringing you the best Shelina Permalloo

Experience the diversity of Mauritian home cooking (p34).

Helen Goh

Creative sweet and savoury bakes to bring joy whatever the time of day (p26).

Chariya Khattiyot

Discover the flavours of Northern Thailand with dishes made for sharing (p88).

VIDEO EXTRA

SCAN TO FIND MORE GREAT CONTENT ON INSTAGRAM INCLUDING TRAVEL, WELLBEING AND RECIPE INSPO

THE HOT LIST with Gurdeep Loyal

From a French food haven to global takes on a taco and an encyclopaedic Vietnamese cookbook, discover our trend expert’s top picks this month

PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

SPOTLIGHT

Keema chaat smash tacos Smash burgers, smashed potatoes, smashed courgettes. Smashed food is one of the most inescapable – and playfully delicious – trends of the moment. Smash tacos are its tastiest manifestation and one that can be taken in countless culturecrossing directions. The method is simple: first you take either a fresh corn or wheat tortilla, then you smash a flavour-loaded mince patty onto its surface – this can be beef, pork, lamb or even prawn. This is cooked directly on a hot griddle or skillet until crispy and charred on both sides. Then you load it up with your choice of lettuce, pickles and sauces, grasp with both hands, curl upwards to hold everything in and devour from one side to the other. You can keep things traditionally Mexican with chipotle-spiced beef, jalapeños and tomato salsa, or go in a Turkish direction with lahmacun-inspired cumin-spiced lamb topped with hot pepper paste and yogurt, or try Korean flavours with gochujang-spiced pork, pickled daikon radishes and spring onions. This Indian twist has a garam masala spiced lamb patty, a quick tangy tamarind sauce, crunchy chaat toppings and an obligatory pinch of tangy dried mango powder to finish.

Keema chaat smash tacos SERVES 5 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 500g lamb mince 1 medium red onion, very finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 tsp cumin seeds, crushed 1 tbsp garam masala 2 tsp amchoor (mango powder), plus extra to serve 1 tbsp tamarind paste 2 tbsp mint sauce 4 tbsp tomato ketchup 2 tbsp lime juice, plus lime wedges to serve 10 small corn or wheat tortillas (12-14cm diameter) neutral oil or ghee, for frying 10g coriander, chopped natural yogurt and bombay mix, to serve

1 Put the lamb, onion, garlic, cumin, garam masala, amchoor and 11/2 tsp of fine salt into a large bowl. Mix together thoroughly using your hands, cover and chill in the fridge for 30 mins to let the flavours develop. 2 Meanwhile, make the sauce by whisking together the tamarind, mint sauce, ketchup and lime juice in a small bowl. 3 Roll the mince into 10 balls. Press one into the middle of a tortilla, then use your fingers to flatten it out over the surface of the tortilla, right to the edge in a thin even layer (the meat will shrink as it cooks). Repeat with the remaining tortillas and patties. 4 Heat a little ghee or oil in a non-stick pan or griddle. Press a taco onto the pan, meat-side down, and cook for 2 mins, pressing into the pan with a spatula. Flip over and cook for 1 min, then flip over again and finish cooking for a final minute until the meat is charred and cooked through. Put on a platter and repeat with the other tacos. 5 Top the tacos with chopped coriander, a drizzle of the tamarind sauce and yogurt, and scatter over some bombay mix. Finish with a pinch of amchoor powder, if you like. PER SERVING 465 kcals | fat 20G | saturates 9G carbs 44G | sugars 11G | fibre 3G | protein 25G | salt 2.5G

Homeware

The Splash chopping board by Gareth Neal Gareth Neal is an award-winning London-based craft maker whose work unites traditional and digital techniques to create unique pieces for the home. The Splash chopping board is crafted from natural beech, with geometric circular grooves carved into it to create a stylish textured surface. It’s both functional and chic, making it useful as either a chopping or serving board. Available from &Halt in Brighton and online.

Foodie destination Chinon, France

Vietnam: The Cookbook by Anaïs Ca Dao van Manen This collection of 445 recipes is steeped in culinary history spanning Vietnam’s diverse landscape – from Hanoi’s bustling streets to the Mekong Delta’s vibrant markets. The flavour-packed recipes reflect Vietnam’s communities including Khmer, Chăm and Red Dao – with chapters on everything from hotpots and noodles, to bánh mì sandwiches and cakes. Standout dishes include braised pork ribs with pineapple, mango and dried fish salad, Nha Trang style grilled pork patties and chicken hotpot with lemon basil. There’s a brilliantly compiled ‘pantry staples’ section with recipes for a shrimp, chilli and lemongrass oil, aromatic dipping sauces, tangy pickles and textural additions like fried shallots. The stunning photography takes you into the heart of Vietnamese kitchens and markets, and the beautiful prose immerses you in Vietnamese home cooking traditions. Out 22 October from Phaidon Press.

GOING UP Buckwheat and chocolate Toasted buckwheat has a smoky, crunchy quality that pairs perfectly with chocolate. Try Ocelot’s buckwheat bar made with rare Amelonado cocoa beans.

GOING DOWN

Flat butter boards While the trend for loaded butter is here to stay, horizontal boards are on the way out. Opt for a moulded butter candle, butter duck or butter bunny instead.

GURDEEP LOYAL IS A FOOD AND DRINK TRENDS SPECIALIST WHO BUILT HIS CAREER AT HARRODS FOOD HALLS, INNOCENT DRINKS AND M&S FOOD. HE IS ALSO A FOOD, RECIPE AND TRAVEL WRITER. FIND MORE RECIPES IN GURD’S BOOKS FLAVOUR HEROES AND MOTHER TONGUE. @GURD_LOYAL

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Cookbook of the month

Set in the Loire region, Chinon is a historic UNESCO World Heritage site with a host of culinary highlights that make it well worth a visit. Nemrod (nemrod-chinon.com) is a charmingly relaxed restaurant on a cobbled street showcasing the best producers of the region, with dishes like smoked duck with potato mousseline and oyster mushrooms, and sardine rillettes with aubergine caviar and basil. La Dilettante (@ladilettantechinon) is a beautiful natural wine bar with wines from Domaine Breton and tasting experiences that guide you through wine and cheese pairings from the region. Hôtel Diderot (hoteldiderot.com) is famous for selling its homemade jams and jellies made using seasonal fruits, citruses and botanicals like angelica and geranium. And L’Océanic (loceanic-chinon.com) is a Michelinrecommended restaurant that showcases seafood, with inventive dishes like French shrimp tagine, mackerel tartare and Grenoble-style roast turbot.

.. this festive season with damn tasty chocolate gifts!

KITCHEN SHELF Our pick of the month’s best new food and drink products

FRANCO MANCA HALLOUMI & HOT HONEY PIZZA

CIRIO PASSATA RUSTICA

Get a taste of the popular restaurant at home – we love the combination of salty halloumi and chilli-spiked hot honey. £5.75/485g, Tesco and ocado.com

Made from finely chopped sun-ripened tomatoes and infused with basil, oregano and onion, this sauce is rich and creamy – a great shortcut for homemade pizzas. £1.50/680g, widely available

NIMI NOSH CRACKING CURRY JERK

UNEARTHED MORTADELLA WITH PISTACHIO

Founded by Jamaican-born Londoner Nicole Michael (‘Nimi’) and inspired by her mother’s sauces – we love this spicy, complex curry jerk sauce/marinade. £3.30/250ml, Tesco

DABBADROP

This zero-waste takeaway delivers veg curries in reusable tiffin boxes, which are then collected after use. The weekly rotating menu includes regular collabs with restaurants like The Tamil Prince. From £30 for two, dabbadrop.co.uk

YEO VALLEY TRAY BAKED GRANOLA

Organic British oats baked in small batches with a generous helping of cashews, seeds, dates, quinoa and flax for a crunchy, satisfying bite. £4.50, Waitrose & Partners and Asda

VADASZ SMACKED CUCUMBERS

Traditionally slow-cooked and studded with pistachios, this mortadella is a great addition to charcuterie boards, or pile up in a deli sandwich. £3.50, Waitrose & Partners

Cold-brined for freshness and crunch (and to preserve gut-friendly live cultures) these pickles are a balance of spicy chilli and garlic with sweet, crunchy cucumbers. £4.50/400g, ocado.com

ENGLISH SPIRIT DAMSON LIQUEUR

FATSO DRUNK’N MONKEY CHOCOLATE

This seasonal liqueur is packed with tart damsons for a fruity hit. Sip on its own, top with fizz or use to add a berry-rich edge to autumnal cocktails. £26/50cl, englishspirit.uk

Crisp, crunchy banana chips, a glug of dark rum and sprinkling of salted crackers are wrapped in single-origin dark Colombian chocolate. £7.25/150g, sofatso.com

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cook Cosy up with inventive sweet and savoury bakes, comforting Mauritian sharing dishes and a heavenly treacle tart, plus expert tips on how to boost your gut health

PHOTOGRAPH: LAURA EDWARDS

ON THE COVER This rich indulgent tart uses a clever cheat for a crunchy, nutty crust Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MOWIE KAY

Crunchy nut and milk chocolate tart SERVES 12 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS CHILLING | EASY

A retro no-cook tart that is easy to pull together. It’s very rich so serve in thin slices – great for feeding a crowd.

4 tbsp dark roast peanut butter 3 tbsp salted caramel spread 100ml double cream 200g milk chocolate (about 45% cocoa solids), chopped TART BASE 75g milk chocolate (about 45% cocoa solids) 75g dark chocolate (about 70% cocoa solids) 50g salted butter 150g crunchy nut cornflakes 30g roasted unsalted peanuts, finely chopped

1 To make the base, melt the chocolates and butter together in a bowl in 10-second blasts in the microwave. Add the cornflakes and peanuts, and mix well, scrunching them up a bit as you mix – this will make it easier to form the tart shell. Double line a 23cm shallow tart tin then spoon in the mixture, pushing it up the sides with a teaspoon. Chill for 1 hr or until solid. 2 Spread the peanut butter over the base, then top with the caramel and spread out – don’t worry if it mixes together a bit. Chill again while you make the ganache filling. 3 Heat the cream in a pan until just simmering then pour over the milk chocolate in a bowl and stir until smooth. Leave to cool a little then spoon into the tart case. Chill for 2-3 hrs until solid, then serve in thin slices. PER SERVING 345 kcals | fat 23G | saturates 12G | carbs 27G sugars 21G | fibre 2G | protein 5G | salt 0.4G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

COOK IN SEASON Make the most of venison, swede, mushrooms, apples and pears this month Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs MOWIE KAY

Venison pastitsio

1 tbsp olive oil 300g venison mince 1 onion, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 bay leaves 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground allspice 175ml red wine 2 x 400g tins of cherry tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 beef stock cube or stock pot 50g unsalted butter 50g plain flour 500ml milk 100g feta, grated 1 egg, beaten grating of nutmeg 350g thin tubular pasta (such as pastitisio, bucatini or long macaroni) green salad, to serve

Though not strictly authentic, this is inspired by the comforting Greek layered pasta dish. Venison has a rich flavour that can stand up to the warming spices found in the sauce. 1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and cook the venison with some seasoning until browned. Add the onion and cook for 10 mins until softened, then add the garlic and cook for 2 mins. Add the bay and spices, and cook for 3-4 mins more. Pour in the wine and simmer for 3 mins, then add the tomatoes, tomato purée and a cupful of water, and return to a simmer. Add the stock and season. Cook for 45 mins until the sauce has thickened. 2 Meanwhile, melt the butter in a pan over a low heat, then stir in the flour to make a paste. Cook for a few minutes, stirring, then gradually add the milk, mixing after each addition until you have a smooth sauce. Stir in the feta, then remove from the heat. Stir in the egg and season with salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. 3 Cook the pasta in a pan of boiling salted water until al dente, then drain. Mix into the sauce, then tip into a deep 30cm x 23cm baking dish. Spoon over the béchamel and bake for 35-40 mins until the top is puffed up and golden, and the pastitsio is piping hot. Rest for 15 mins before serving in wedges with a green salad. PER SERVING 549 kcals | fat 19G | saturates 10G carbs 59G | sugars 13G | fibre 4G | protein 28G | salt 1.2G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLING: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS RESTING | COOK 2 HRS | EASY

Teriyaki swede bowls SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 40 MINS | EASY | V 700-800g swede, peeled and cut into small chunks oil, for roasting ½ cucumber, sliced 2 tbsp pickled red onions 1 tbsp pickled ginger, chopped, plus 1 tsp of the pickling brine 200g edamame beans 500g cooked jasmine rice, to serve 1 tsp black sesame seeds TERIYAKI SAUCE 3 tbsp light soy sauce 3 tbsp mirin 3 tbsp sake 1 tbsp caster sugar

Swede is a great carrier for strong flavours – the slightly sweet edge it takes on when roasted pairs well with teriyaki sauce. 1 Whisk together the sauce ingredients in a pan, then bring to a simmer over a low heat and cook for 5 mins until glossy. 2 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Put the swede on a roasting tray and toss with a little oil. Roast for 15-20 mins until just tender, then add the sauce. Toss and continue to roast until glazed and sticky. 3 Toss together the cucumber, onions and ginger in a bowl with the brine. Warm through the edamame following pack instructions. 4 To serve, divide the rice between bowls. Top with the swede, cucumber and edamame, and sprinkle over the sesame seeds. PER SERVING 385 kcals | fat 7G | saturates 1G | carbs 63G sugars 20G | fibre 7G | protein 11G | salt 1.9G

Peppery wild mushroom pappardelle SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 20 MINS | EASY 1 tsp whole black peppercorns unsalted butter, for frying 300g mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and sliced, or torn into bite-sized pieces 1 garlic clove, crushed 150ml white wine 200ml vegetable or chicken stock few thyme sprigs, leaves picked 150ml double cream 50g parmesan or grana padano, finely grated 125g pappardelle small handful of chopped parsley

Freshly ground pepper gives this creamy, cheesy pasta a nice kick of heat. 1 Toast the peppercorns in a small, dry frying pan over a low heat for a few minutes, then cool and roughly grind using a pestle and mortar, keeping some texture. 2 Melt a large knob of butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat and fry the mushrooms with a pinch of salt, tossing until they start to take on some colour and become pale golden – some liquid will be released first, so keep frying until most of the liquid has gone. Add another knob of butter, the garlic and peppercorns, and cook for 2-3 mins until fragrant. Remove a couple of spoonfuls of the mushrooms to a bowl and reserve for garnishing later. 3 Tip in the wine and simmer until it has almost evaporated. Add the stock and thyme, and simmer until reduced by half. Add the cream and cook for 3-4 mins, then stir in the cheese. 4 Cook the pasta following pack instructions, then drain, reserving a little of the cooking water. Add the pappardelle to the sauce and toss, using a splash of the cooking water if needed – you want the sauce to be glossy and slippery. Serve in warmed bowls, topped with the reserved mushrooms and a sprinkle of parsley. 5 PER SERVING 880 kcals | fat 57G | saturates 35G carbs 53G | sugars 7G | fibre 9G | protein 24G | salt 1.3G

Autumn fruit salad with pomegranate dressing SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | EASY | V 1 pink grapefruit 1 orange 1 pomegranate, halved 1 tbsp honey or maple syrup 1 pear, cut into thin wedges 1 red apple, cut into thin wedges handful of red grapes 1 tbsp flaked almonds, toasted greek yogurt, to serve nut and seed granola, to serve

Serve this salad as part of a weekend brunch alongside some thick greek yogurt and nutty, seedy granola for crunch. 1 Peel, then segment the grapefruit and orange by slicing between the membrane. Put the segments in a bowl, then squeeze the left-over peels into a second bowl to extract any juice. Spoon half the pomegranate seeds into the bowl with the fruit, then squeeze the juice from the other pomegranate half into the bowl with the citrus juice. Combine the fruit juices with the honey or syrup. 2 Toss the citrus segments and pomegranate seeds with the pears, apples and grapes, then tip onto a serving platter. Pour over the fruit juice mixture, then scatter over the almonds and serve with yogurt and granola, if you like. PER SERVING 167 kcals | fat 3G | saturates 0.3G carbs 29G | sugars 25G | fibre 5G | protein 3G | salt 0G

ALL-DAY COMFORT Inventive sweet and savoury bakes from Helen Goh to take you through from breakfast till evening Recipes HELEN GOH Photographs LAURA EDWARDS

Italian breakfast cake with olive oil and polenta SERVES 8 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS COOLING | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 10g butter, softened, for brushing 200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 100g polenta 1½ tsp baking powder 200g caster sugar 1 large orange, zested ½ vanilla bean, seeds scraped out 3 eggs, plus 2 egg whites 100ml light olive oil 250ml double cream marmalade and yogurt, to serve

This cake is inspired by one we ate each morning when we stayed at an agriturismo in Umbria one summer. Marmalade and yogurt were also on the table – we weren’t sure if they were for the cake but we found they paired exceptionally well with it. Sitting outside with a rolling vineyard only a few feet away, the smell of rosemary in the air and cicadas chirping around us, we fortified ourselves plentifully for the day ahead. Eating cake at breakfast is one of those holiday things that doesn’t really translate to home but this is a great cake for brunch or afternoon tea and can be warmed lightly and served as a lovely pudding for dessert. 1 Brush the inside of a 23cm bundt tin with the butter, then sprinkle over a little flour and rotate to coat the whole inner surface. Turn the tin upside down over the sink or bin and tap to remove the excess flour, then put in the fridge until ready to bake. Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. 2 Sift the flour, polenta, baking powder and 1/2 tsp of fine sea salt into a bowl. 3 Put the sugar, orange zest and vanilla seeds in the bowl of a stand mixer, and rub together firmly between your thumb and fingers – after a couple of minutes the sugar will be very fragrant and tinged orange. Add the eggs and egg whites, and beat using the whisk attachment on mediumhigh speed for 3-4 mins until light and frothy. Gradually add the oil, then the cream, and mix until well combined. Reduce the speed to low and add the dry ingredients in a few batches, mixing until just combined. 4 Scrape the batter into the prepared tin and bake for 50 mins or until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. Cool for 20 mins before turning out onto a plate. If not eating for several hours, invert the cake but leave the tin on top to keep it from drying out. Slice and serve with marmalade and yogurt. PER SERVING 498 kcals | fat 31G | saturates 13G carbs 47G | sugars 26G | fibre 1G | protein 7G | salt 0.9G

Dutch baby pancake with mortadella and rocket SERVES 4-6 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 25 MINS | EASY 150g plain flour 20g parmesan, grated, plus extra, shaved to serve 4 eggs 250ml whole milk 20g unsalted butter 1 tbsp olive oil 4 thin slices of edam 4 large slices of mortadella 60g rocket leaves, lightly dressed in olive oil and lemon juice

What I love about brunch is the sense that anything goes: sweet, savoury and everything in between. From bloody marys and banana smoothies, quiche and crêpes, to bacon and blueberries, mimosas and mocktails, it’s all go. I love the mix and match vibe of this in-between, convivial meal. Dutch babies are my secret weapons for brunch and these dramatic, oven-baked pancakes are ridiculously easy to make. Golden brown and crisp at the edges, soft and custardy in the centre, they are texturally delightful to eat. They arrive out of the oven magnificently puffed up, then subside into a bowl shape that will carry any topping you fancy. Don’t feel restricted by the toppings I’ve given here – make this your own by substituting with your favourites. Just be careful not to overload the tender pancakes. 1 Whisk together the flour and parmesan with 1/2 tsp of fine sea salt and 1/4 tsp of freshly cracked black pepper in a medium bowl, and make a well in the centre. Crack the eggs into the well, whisk to break them up, then add the milk. Continue to whisk, gradually drawing in the flour until the mixture is smooth. Chill for up to two days until ready to bake. 2 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and put a 25cm x 28cm x 5cm ovenproof pan inside to heat up for 5 mins. 3 Remove the pan from the oven, add the butter and oil, and swirl the pan until the butter has melted. Return to the oven for 1 min. Leaving the pan in the oven, pull it out just slightly and carefully pour the batter in all at once. Push the pan back into the oven and bake for 25 mins until golden brown and puffed up. 4 When the pancake is cooked, lift it out of the pan using a spatula and slide it onto a large plate. Drape the slices of cheese on the base of the pancake, followed by the slices of mortadella. Top with the dressed rocket leaves and shave extra parmesan cheese all over. Serve immediately. PER SERVING (6) 492 kcals | fat 39G | saturates 20G carbs 20G | sugars 1G | fibre 1G | protein 14G | salt 1.1G

Pear, pepper and parmesan cake SERVES 8-10 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS COOLING | COOK 40 MINS | EASY 1 firm ripe pear 125g self-raising flour ½ tsp baking powder 80g parmesan, finely grated 60g fine semolina 3 eggs, separated 90g unsalted butter, melted and cooled 175ml whole milk 40g honey 30g hazelnuts, roasted and roughly chopped few thyme sprigs

Playing with the idea for a savoury cake I remembered a much-loved recipe from Sophie’s Table by Sophie Grigson. I retested it and found myself craving just a little sweetness – something that would not submerge the parmesan flavour but heighten it. I had the idea of adding pear to the cake and swapping the parmesan for pecorino. One step forward, one step back: the pear worked beautifully but the pecorino added a little too much tang and I missed the complex, nutty flavours of the parmesan. So out went the pecorino, back came the parmesan, in went some pepper and the addition of a little honey with thyme and hazelnuts on top completed the transformation of this bake into a savoury, slightly sweet, somewhat surprising and very tasty cake. Make the cake a day ahead if possible – the texture seems to settle over time and the flavours somehow meld. This is great for a picnic or thinly sliced with a glass of vin santo. 1 Line the base and sides of a 20cm round springform cake tin with baking paper. 2 Slice the pear lengthways into four equal pieces. Cut away the core, then slice each quarter lengthways into five, so you have 20 thin spears. 3 Sift the flour, baking powder and 1/2 tsp of fine sea salt into a medium bowl, then stir in the parmesan, semolina and 1 tsp of freshly cracked black pepper. 4 Whisk together the egg yolks, butter and milk in a small bowl, then add the mixture to the dry ingredients, folding to combine into a thick batter. 5 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk to soft peaks – this is a relatively small amount of egg whites so use an electric whisk if that feels easier. Fold a third of the egg whites into the batter, mix to loosen slightly, then fold in the remaining egg whites. Be gentle but thorough – there should be no streaks of egg white visible when you’re finished but be careful not to over-mix as this deflates the egg whites and can lead to a heavy or dense cake. 6 Scrape the batter into the prepared tin, then arrange the slices of pear on top (you may not use them all). Bake for 40 mins or until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack to cool in the tin for a few minutes then turn out onto the wire rack to cool completely. 7 To serve, warm the honey gently, either in a small pan or for a few seconds in the microwave. Once the honey is warm and runny, use a pastry brush to dab it evenly all over the pears on top of the cake. Scatter the hazelnuts on top and garnish with a few thyme sprigs. PER SERVING (10) 240 kcals | fat 14G | saturates 7G carbs 20G | sugars 6G | fibre 1G | protein 8G | salt 0.6G

Sticky date pudding with miso butterscotch SERVES 6-8 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS FREEZING, MACERATING, COOLING AND SOAKING COOK 45 MINS | EASY VEGAN VANILLA ICE CREAM 150g plant-based condensed milk (such as coconut) 1 tsp vanilla bean paste ½ tsp sea salt flakes 250ml plant-based double cream, cold APPLES 3 Pink Lady apples 35g light or dark brown soft sugar 45ml apple cider vinegar 20g vegan butter SPONGE PUDDING 100g vegan butter, softened, plus 10g for the dish 200g pitted dates, roughly chopped 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 130g light or dark brown soft sugar 200g plain flour 1¾ tsp baking powder MISO CARAMEL SAUCE 500ml plant-based double cream 85g light or dark brown soft sugar 1½ tbsp date molasses 50g shiro (white) miso

Recipes extracted from Baking & the Meaning of Life by Helen Goh (£26, Murdoch Books). Photographs: © Laura Edwards. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

Sticky toffee pudding, or sticky date pudding as it’s called in Australia, is a crowd-pleaser and perennial favourite, and for good reason. The combination of moist date sponge and luscious butterscotch sauce is deeply appealing. Recipes proliferate and I didn’t think we needed another one – unless it was a completely plant-based, sensational version accompanied by an easy and delicious vegan ice cream. You can use any kind of dates, whole or chopped – they will all work. For the best result, however, I recommend the lush Medjool variety, rightly known as the king of dates for its deep, caramel-like flavour and soft, moist texture. I have included apples, lightly caramelised in cider vinegar, to add fresh and fruity pops to the date sponge. The salty miso in the sauce brings a further dimension, creating wonderful complexity. 1 Prepare the ice cream at least 8 hrs or a day ahead. Put all the ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip on medium-high speed to firm peaks. Pour into a 20cm x 10cm loaf tin, cover with baking paper and freeze for 8 hrs or overnight. 2 To prepare the apples, peel, core and cut them into 1.5cm dice. Combine the sugar, vinegar and a pinch of fine sea salt in a medium bowl, and stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the apples, toss to coat and set aside to macerate for 10 mins. Once macerated, melt the butter in a medium frying pan over medium-high heat and cook the apples, stirring occasionally for 5 mins until nearly all the liquid has evaporated and the apples are lightly caramelised. 3 To make the sponge pudding heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Butter the base and sides of a 28cm ovenproof dish using 10g of butter. Combine the dates and 350ml of water in a medium pan, and bring to a simmer, then cook for 3-4 mins until the dates are soft. Remove from the heat and stir in the bicarb. Cool slightly. 4 Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter and sugar for 2-3 mins until light and fluffy. Beat in the date mixture until combined, then sift the flour and baking powder into the bowl. Fold in using a spatula until just combined, then fold in the apples. Pour into the prepared dish and bake for 35 mins until the pudding is just firm to the touch and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. 5 While the pudding is cooking, make the miso caramel sauce. Put all the ingredients in a medium pan set over a medium heat. Whisk occasionally until combined, then simmer for 10-15 mins until the colour deepens slightly. Remove the pan from the heat. 6 When the sponge comes out of the oven, prick it all over using a skewer, then pour over half the miso caramel sauce. Leave to soak into the pudding for 10 mins. 7 Remove the ice cream from the freezer 5 mins before serving to soften slightly. Serve the pudding warm with ice cream and drizzle the remaining miso caramel on top. PER SERVING (8) 682 kcals | fat 33G | saturates 21G carbs 87G | sugars 64G | fibre 3G | protein 8G | salt 2.2G

SIGNATURE DISHES with Shelina Permalloo

We ask our favourite creators to share recipes that showcase their unique style of cooking Recipes SHELINA PERMALLOO Photographs MOWIE KAY

British-Mauritian chef Shelina swapped her office job for a career in food when she won MasterChef in 2012. Between opening a restaurant and writing cookbooks she has contributed to national publications, TV and radio. Her cookbook, Sunshine on a Plate, is a tribute to the vibrant food she grew up with.

Mauritian butter bean curry (cari gros pois) SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 30 MINS | EASY | 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, grated 15g ginger, grated 1 green chilli, finely chopped (optional) 2 tbsp medium curry powder (I use my Mauritian curry powder but you could also use Caribbean curry or a mild masala) 200g tin of chopped tomatoes 400g tin of butter beans, drained and rinsed 400ml tin of full-fat coconut milk 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder small bunch of coriander, chopped, plus extra to serve ½ lime, juiced to serve cooked rice, roti, tomato and cucumber salad and chutney, to serve

This butter bean curry is one of my ultimate comfort dishes: warm, rich and full of nostalgic flavour. Growing up in a Mauritian household, pulses like butter beans were a staple. They were affordable, filling and could stretch to feed a big family without sacrificing taste. My mum would often cook this on quiet weeknights when money was tight but hearts were full. The smell of onions, garlic, curry powder and thyme gently simmering would fill the house, and bring everyone to the kitchen. It was humble food but made with so much love and care that it felt special every time. This is everyday Mauritian cooking at its best – simple ingredients, bold flavour and made to nourish. 1 Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat. Cook the onion, garlic, ginger and chilli (if using) for a few minutes, stirring often. 2 Add the curry powder, stir to coat the mixture in the spices and cook for another minute. 3 Pour in the tomatoes and simmer gently for 5-10 mins until the tomatoes start to break down and the sauce thickens. 4 Add the beans, coconut milk and bouillon, season with salt and simmer, uncovered, for 15-20 mins until the sauce has reduced and thickened. 5 Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Stir in the coriander and a squeeze of lime juice just before serving. Enjoy with rice, roti, tomato and cucumber salad, and some chutney, if you like. PER SERVING 333 kcals | fat 23G | saturates 15G carbs 20G | sugars 8G | fibre 7G | protein 7G | salt 0.4G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

Chilli cakes (gato pima) with tomato chilli chutney MAKES 20-30 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING GF COOK 20 MINS | EASY | 300g yellow split peas, soaked overnight and drained, reserving the soaking liquid 1-2 red chillies, finely chopped (to taste) 1 spring onion, finely chopped 1 /4 white onion, finely chopped 1 tsp baking powder vegetable or sunflower oil, for shallow frying TOMATO CHILLI CHUTNEY 200g ripe tomatoes, finely chopped 1-2 red chillies 1 garlic clove 15g coriander leaves, chopped 10ml white wine vinegar 1 tsp sugar

Gato pima is, without a doubt, my favourite gajak — Mauritian street food snack. I grew up eating these spicy little fritters at every family gathering, festival or after school. They’re crunchy on the outside, soft and lightly spiced on the inside, and packed with bold flavours. What I love most is how simple they are to make – just soaked yellow split peas and a few aromatics. They’re naturally vegan and gluten-free, which means I can serve them to pretty much anyone. And once you start eating them it’s impossible to stop at just one. In my family there was always a batch frying in the background while the adults chatted and the kids ran around. They aren’t just food, they’re memory, culture and connection all wrapped up in a golden, crispy bite. 1 Thoroughly drain the split peas, then blitz in a food processor to create a coarse batter like cornmeal – if it’s too thick add in a few teaspoons of the soaking water. 2 Put into a bowl and stir in the chillies, onions, baking powder and 1 tsp of salt. 3 Heat a shallow layer of oil in a small frying pan to 170C or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. 4 Meanwhile, using a spoon or your hands, shape small patties (25g each) and gently slide them into the hot oil. Fry for 3-4 mins on each side, until deep golden and crisp. Turn carefully to avoid them breaking. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain the excess oil. 5 To make the chutney, pulse all the ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Serve the gato pima warm with the chutney to dip into. PER CAKE (30) 62 kcals | fat 3G | saturates 0.2G

Mauritian magic bowl (bol devire) SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 30 MINS | EASY vegetable oil, for frying 1 medium carrot, cut into matchsticks 100g chestnut mushrooms, sliced 250g pak choi, sliced 4 spring onions, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, minced 3-4cm ginger, minced 4 tbsp light soy sauce 3 tbsp oyster sauce white pepper 1 tbsp cornflour mixed with 200ml water 4 eggs 500g cooked basmati rice

This is a recipe of Chinese-Mauritian origin and the magic lies in its theatrical upside-down reveal at the table. Originally a street food staple in Mauritius, it’s made for sharing and celebration. I loved serving it in my restaurant, where my diners would always smile as the bowl is flipped to unveil a perfectly fried egg perched on top of a mound of rice and glistening veggies. 1 Heat 3 tbsp of the oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Stir-fry the carrot, mushrooms, pak choi and spring onions for 2 mins until they begin to soften. Add the garlic, ginger, soy, oyster sauce, white pepper and 30ml of water, and stir briefly. 2 Tip in the cornflour mixture, stir and cook until the vegetables are al dente and coated in a glossy gravy. 3 In a separate frying pan, heat a little oil and fry each egg until the edges are crisp and the yolks semi-soft. Baste the whites with oil to help them set. 4 For each serving, put one fried egg yolk-side down in a bowl. Spoon in the vegetable stir-fry. Top with a quarter of the rice, pressing down firmly. 5 Bring the bowl to the table, put a plate on top and quickly invert to reveal the egg on top of the rice and veg. Or, if you prefer, you can put the fried egg on top after unmoulding. PER SERVING 406 kcals | fat 19G | saturates 3G carbs 43G | sugars 5G | fibre 3G | protein 15G | salt 4.2G

Coconut flan SERVES 8 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 1 HR EASY | GF 150g light brown or white granulated sugar 397g tin of sweetened condensed milk 400ml tin of coconut milk 5 eggs desiccated coconut or fresh coconut shavings, to serve

Growing up, flan was a constant on the table at every Mauritian gathering. It didn’t matter if it was a birthday, family Sunday lunch or just a regular dinner, there would always be a flan cooling in someone’s fridge, ready to be turned out with that beautiful golden caramel top. For me this coconut flan is more than just a dessert, it’s a nostalgic reminder of home, family and tradition. My mum used to make it all the time using simple storecupboard ingredients and, no matter what else was served, it was always the flan everyone looked forward to. This one combines the creamy richness of coconut milk with the sweet depth of caramel, making it comforting, elegant and surprisingly easy to make. Whether you’re hosting or just want a taste of the island, this recipe will transport you straight to Mauritius. 1 To make the caramel, combine the sugar and 60ml of water in a pan over a medium-low heat. Let it bubble without stirring, instead swirling the pan until it turns a rich amber. 2 Immediately and carefully pour into a 23cm flan mould (or loaf tin), swirling to coat the bottom evenly. Leave to set. 3 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the milks, eggs and a pinch of salt until smooth and well combined. Pour the custard over the set caramel in the mould. 4 Put the mould in a larger baking dish, pouring boiling water around it so the water reaches halfway up the sides. Bake for 45 mins-1 hr until the edges are set and centre gently jiggles. Remove from the oven and leave to cool to room temperature, then chill for at least 4 hrs, preferably overnight. 5 Run a thin knife around the edge, briefly dip the mould base in warm water to loosen, then invert onto a serving plate. Sprinkle the coconut over the top to serve. PER SERVING 365 kcals | fat 16G | saturates 11G carbs 46G | sugars 45G | fibre 0.2G | protein 9G | salt 0.3G

3 WAYS WITH WALNUTS From sharing salads to moreish bakes, walnuts add warm depth of flavour Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ Photographs MOWIE KAY

Walnut, anchovy, chard and goat’s cheese pasta

SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 25 MINS | EASY 75g walnuts 2 tbsp olive oil 200g spaghetti 1 shallot, finely sliced 200g swiss chard, stems finely chopped, leaves roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 3 anchovy fillets 1 tsp dried chilli flakes 80g soft goat’s cheese 1 lemon, zested and juiced

Using goat’s cheese to create the creamy sauce brings a lovely tang to this pasta dish. If you’re not a fan you could substitute in finely grated parmesan instead. 1 Heat a large deep frying pan over medium heat and, once hot, toast the walnuts for 4-5 mins until golden. Tip into a heatproof bowl and cool slightly before roughly chopping. 2 Cook the spaghetti in a pan of boiling salted water following pack instructions, reserving some of the cooking water. Meanwhile, heat the oil in the frying pan. Once the oil is shimmering, cook the shallot and chard stalks with a pinch of salt and some black pepper for 5-6 mins until starting to soften. 3 Stir in the garlic and anchovies, and cook for 1-2 mins until the garlic has softened and is fragrant, and the anchovies have melted. Stir in the chilli flakes and chard leaves. 4 Continue to cook for a minute or so to wilt the leaves, then turn down the heat to low and toss in the pasta, cheese and 2-3 ladlefuls of the pasta cooking water. Stir the pasta well to emulsify the cheese to create a creamy sauce. 5 Stir through the lemon zest and juice, and most of the chopped walnuts. Divide the pasta between two bowls, then top with the remaining walnuts and a twist of black pepper. PER SERVING 906 kcals | fat 49G | saturates 12G carbs 81G | sugars 5G | fibre 7G | protein 31G | salt 1.8G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

Brown butter, walnut and caramelised white chocolate cookies

SERVES 12-15 | PREP 1 HR PLUS OVERNIGHT CHILLING COOK 20 MINS | EASY 250g salted butter, cubed 125g walnuts 100g golden caster sugar 175g soft light brown sugar 2 eggs 2 tsp vanilla extract 300g plain flour 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 125g caramelised white chocolate, roughly chopped into chunks sea salt flakes, for sprinkling

This technique of toasting the nuts in the butter is borrowed from American chef Sohla El-Waylly – it creates a fantastic toasted nut flavour that you can taste through the whole cookie. The dough needs to rest overnight before baking, so plan accordingly. These cookies freeze well – once formed into balls, put in a freezer bag or airtight container and freeze for up to three months. 1 Set a metal sieve over a medium heatproof bowl and fill a second large bowl with iced water. Melt the butter in a large pan over a medium-high heat and toast the walnuts for 7-8 mins, stirring continuously, until the butter has browned and smells nutty, and the walnuts have darkened slightly. Tip into the sieve so the butter drains into the bowl below. Spread out the nuts over a large chopping board and leave to cool before roughly chopping into a mixture of sizes. 2 Put the bowl of butter into the bowl of iced water and stir continuously for a few minutes until the butter starts to thicken. Once it is the consistency of buttercream, remove it from the ice bath and stir in both sugars. Whip using an electric whisk for 3-4 mins until the mixture is pale and voluminous. 3 Add the eggs and vanilla, and continue to whisk for 4-5 mins. Fold in the flour, bicarb and 1 tsp of salt until combined, then fold in the chocolate and chopped walnuts. Chill for at least 6 hrs or overnight. 4 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Scoop the dough into 15 balls using a cookie scoop and arrange over two large baking sheets lined with baking paper. 5 Bake for 12-15 mins until lightly golden. When they come out of the oven, give the tray a whack on the worksurface – this will help create a crispy edge. While the cookies are still warm, sprinkle lightly with sea salt. Cool on the tray for a few minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. PER COOKIE (15) 389 kcals | fat 24G | saturates 12G carbs 37G | sugars 22G | fibre 1G | protein 5G | salt 1G

Cumin-roasted carrots and bulgur salad with sticky spiced walnuts and feta

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS COOK 40 MINS | EASY | V 450g carrots, cut into chunky slices on the diagonal 2 shallots, peeled and sliced into thick half-moons 2 garlic cloves, unpeeled, bashed but left whole 2 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp ground turmeric 2½ tbsp olive oil 150g bulgur wheat STICKY WALNUTS 100g walnuts 2 tbsp maple syrup 2 tsp sumac 1 tsp aleppo pepper DRESSING 3 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 orange, zested and juiced ½ tbsp maple syrup 20g mint, leaves picked 10g dill, roughly chopped 10g parsley, roughly chopped 50g feta, crumbled

This is a lovely salad to serve alongside some grilled lamb or fish but is also excellent for meal prep if you want to get ahead. 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Scatter the carrots, shallots and garlic over a large baking tray lined with baking paper. Toss with the cumin seeds, turmeric and oil, and season well. Roast for 30 mins until the veg is softened, caramelised and a little charred at the edges. 2 Meanwhile, cook the bulgur in a pan of boiling salted water following pack instructions. Leave to cool slightly. 3 For the sticky walnuts, put the nuts in a small roasting tin lined with baking paper. Drizzle over the maple syrup, sumac, aleppo pepper and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Bake for 6-7 mins until sticky and golden. Cool slightly before roughly chopping. 4 For the dressing, remove the garlic cloves from their skins and break them down to a paste using a fork. Combine the garlic, oil, vinegar, orange zest and juice, and the maple syrup in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Stir through the cooled bulgur, then most of the roasted carrots and shallots, then toss through the herbs. Spoon onto a large platter or divide between four bowls. Top with the remaining carrots, the sticky walnuts and feta. PER SERVING 545 kcals | fat 37G | saturates 6G carbs 38G | sugars 18G | fibre 9G | protein 11G | salt 0.6G

MODERN BAKING with Edd Kimber

Transform a childhood favourite into a grown-up dessert with the umami flavours of brown butter and miso Recipe EDD KIMBER Photograph MOWIE KAY

Brown butter miso treacle tart

s a child, a treacle tart appealed mainly because of its sweet and sticky texture. As an adult, that intense sweetness can be a little overwhelming – a bit saccharine. In this version I wanted to keep the charm of the original but give it the balance and depth I was craving. To achieve this I deployed a couple of my favourite tweaks: adding miso and brown butter for depth, and a hint of something savoury, salt to balance the sweetness and a touch of lemon zest to provide brightness. The resulting tart is absolute heaven. When making this sort of dessert most people reach for basic white bread for the breadcrumbs, but you can – and should – play around with the type of bread. If you have wholemeal sourdough on hand it will give the tart an even more pronounced flavour.

SERVES 12 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS CHILLING AND COOLING COOK 1 HR 5 MINS | MORE EFFORT SWEET PASTRY 225g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 50g caster sugar 150g unsalted butter, diced 1 egg, lightly beaten FILLING 75g unsalted butter, diced 350g golden syrup 50g black treacle 2 tbsp white miso 1 /2 lemon, zested 150ml double cream, cold 2 eggs 175g fresh breadcrumbs TO SERVE cream or crème fraîche

1 Combine the flour, sugar and a pinch of sea salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and toss to coat in the flour mixture. Rub the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Drizzle in the beaten egg, then use a knife to mix it in. Once the dough starts to clump together, tip it out onto a worksurface and bring together into a dough. Press into a disc and chill for 1 hr. 2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured worksurface to about 2-3mm thick. Drape into a 23cm-wide, 3.5cm-deep, loose-bottomed tart tin, pushing it into the edges. Trim away any excess, prick the base all over with a fork, then put in the freezer for 15 mins to chill. 3 Line the tart case with a large, scrunched sheet of baking paper and uncooked rice or baking beans. Bake for 20-25 mins until the top edge of the pastry is starting to brown. Remove the beans and paper, then bake for 5-8 mins until the base of the tart case is starting to brown. 4 Remove from the oven and reduce the oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 3. 5 For the filing, melt the butter in a large pan over a medium heat and cook until browned. The butter will first splutter loudly as the water is cooked off but once it settles and starts to foam look for brown flecks – at this point, remove the pan from the heat. Pour in the golden syrup, treacle, miso and lemon zest, whisking until smooth. Pour in the cream and whisk to combine. Add the eggs, one at a time, whisking until fully combined before adding the next. Tip in the breadcrumbs and stir to combine. 6 Put the tart case back in the oven and carefully pour in the filling, ensuring it goes right to the rim of the pastry – if the pastry shrank during the initial bake you may end up with a little left-over filling. Bake for 35 mins or until the edges are set and the centre has a gentle wobble. Cool to room temperature, then chill for a couple of hours. Best served within a couple of days, alongside some cream or crème fraîche. PER SERVING 447 kcals | fat 24G | saturates 14G carbs 50G | sugars 30G | fibre 1G | protein 6G | salt 0.8G

EDD KIMBER IS A BAKER, FOOD WRITER AND THE AUTHOR OF SEVEN COOKBOOKS, INCLUDING HIS LATEST, SMALL BATCH COOKIES. FIND HIM ON SUBSTACK AND INSTAGRAM @THEBOYWHOBAKES.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

10 PRE-WORK HABITS TO SET YOU UP FOR A PRODUCTIVE DAY Looking for a routine reset as winter arrives? Try these easy habits before work to help you reclaim your mornings Words HELEN SALTER

s the days get shorter and the pace of life gently shifts, winter offers the perfect invitation to reset. Now’s the time to embrace a steadier rhythm — replacing unstructured weeks of juggling holidays, work and wellbeing with a sense of calm, focus and renewal. A thoughtful start to your day can make all the difference, helping you feel grounded, energised and ready to take on whatever lies ahead. That’s why we’ve curated advice from the experts for easy pre-work habits designed to help you reclaim your mornings. Each ritual is simple to adopt with a focus on nourishing your body, moving your muscles and supporting your wellbeing. Whether you’re heading into the office, logging on from home or simply looking for a refresh, these practical tips will help you feel your best as the season changes.

a stress response, affecting your mood for the rest of the day. Instead focus on your own needs and rituals first. 5. TAKE A MOMENT FOR QUIET Carve out a few minutes for yourself before the demands of the day begin. This could be as simple as making your bed or enjoying your breakfast mindfully. Spend a moment planning your day – write a to-do list, check your calendar or lay out your clothes and lunch. A little preparation helps reduce stress and can make the transition from home to work smoother. 6. MOVE YOUR BODY GENTLY Ease into movement with a gentle stretch, a few light yoga poses or a brisk walk outside. Morning movement increases circulation, helps shake off any sluggishness and sets a positive tone for the rest of the day. If you have time, a walk outdoors combines movement with fresh air and daylight for a double boost. Just 10 minutes can make a real difference to your mood.

10 HABITS TO ADD TO YOUR MORNING

7. PREPARE A NOURISHING BREAKFAST Winter calls for a return to comforting, sustaining breakfasts. Swap out sugary cereals or pastries for something balanced such as overnight oats with seasonal fruit, or eggs. A filling breakfast will help you concentrate through the morning.

1. WAKE UP AT THE SAME TIME EACH DAY Try to get up at the same time every morning (even on weekends) to help stabilise your internal clock. Open your curtains or blinds wide and let the morning light in as soon as you can. Exposure to natural light signals to your brain that it’s time to start the day and will help boost energy and mood. This gentle consistency supports better sleep and helps you feel more alert.

8. SWAP YOUR SWEET BREAKFAST FOR SAVOURY Replace your sweet breakfast with a savoury choice that’s rich in protein and healthy fats. These will digest slowly, providing you with a steady source of energy without sharp fluctuations in blood sugar levels, ultimately leaving you satisfied for longer. Turn over the page for some recipe inspiration.

2. HYDRATE BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE Begin your morning with a large glass of water before reaching for tea or coffee. Hydration after a night’s sleep is essential for waking up your body as it replaces the fluid you can lose overnight, helps transport nutrients, supports circulation, improves skin health and regulates body temperature. Keeping a glass of water by your bed can make this habit effortless.

9. ENJOY YOUR MORNING BREW MINDFULLY Make your morning tea or coffee a ritual. Brew your favourite blend, savour the aroma and enjoy it slowly. Some experts suggest that delaying drinking caffeine until 90 minutes after you wake up can help ward off that afternoon crash and support more stable energy levels.

3. SET A SIMPLE INTENTION FOR THE DAY Take a moment to set an intention or jot down a priority for the day ahead. This could be as simple as ‘take a proper lunch break’. Setting an intention gives your day a sense of purpose and can help you stay the course.

10. PREPARE YOUR WORKSPACE Take a few minutes to organise your workspace – clear away clutter, set out your essentials and perhaps add something uplifting such as a plant or favourite mug. A tidy space can help you feel calm and ready to focus.

4. DELAY CHECKING YOUR PHONE Resist the urge to check emails or social media as soon as you wake up. Research shows that exposure to stressful content upon waking can trigger

Eggs are a great protein-rich breakfast option

Spinach omelette This healthy omelette is a satisfying vegetarian breakfast, topped with creamed spinach and juicy tomatoes – we’ve lowered the fat by replacing cream with light soft cheese and milk. SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 15 MINS EASY | V

150g vine cherry tomatoes, still on the vine 1 tsp olive oil 30g light soft cheese with garlic and herbs 200g frozen chopped spinach, defrosted, drained and any excess liquid squeezed out 1 tbsp whole milk

pinch of dried chilli flakes pinch of grated nutmeg 1 tsp grated parmesan (or vegetarian alternative) 3 eggs, lightly beaten

1 Heat the grill to high. Toss the tomatoes with ½ tsp of oil on a small tray and season. Grill, turning occasionally, for 5 mins until the tomatoes are charred, blistered and just softened. Transfer to a plate and keep warm. 2 Meanwhile put a 20cm non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Melt the cheese, then add the spinach and milk, stirring to combine. Add the chilli, nutmeg and parmesan, and stir again to combine. Season to taste then transfer to a bowl and cover to keep warm.

3 Wipe the frying pan and add the remaining oil. Put over a medium heat. Lightly season the eggs then pour into the pan, gently rotating it to allow the eggs to swirl and evenly coat the bottom. Let it set for 30 seconds then, using a rubber spatula, gently bring in the edges of the omelette, allowing any runny egg to run to the sides. Do this a couple of times until it has only just set – the surface should still be a little wet. 4 Add the creamed spinach to one side of the omelette. Carefully fold over the other side so the spinach is covered. Slide the omelette onto a plate and serve with the tomatoes. PER SERVING 417 kcals | fat 25.8G saturates 8.7G | carbs 9.3G | sugars 8.9G fibre 8G | protein 33G | salt 1.2G

Sweet and sour lentil shakshuka Jazz up your weekend brunch and make this veggie shakshuka with lentils and punchy spice. This simple egg recipe is not only easy to make but it’s low in calories too.

Fibre in lentils helps to keep you feeling full

SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 1 HR 35 MINS | EASY | V

300g black or green lentils 1 tbsp sunflower or rapeseed oil 2 onions, diced 2 red peppers, diced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 400g tin of chopped tomatoes or 300g passata 2 tbsp tamarind paste 2 tsp soft light brown sugar 100g full-fat natural yogurt, plus 150g to serve ½ lemon, juiced 4 eggs 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds handful of coriander, chopped warmed naan or chapatis, to serve

1 Put the lentils in a large pan and cover with double the amount of cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 mins. Tip into a sieve and drain really well. 2 Put the oil into the same pan and cook the onions, peppers and garlic with some seasoning until the onion is soft. Add the ground cumin and ground coriander, and fry for 2 mins, then stir in the lentils, tomatoes, tamarind and sugar. Add 300ml of water, cover with a lid and cook gently for 45 mins. Add the yogurt and cook – uncovered if it’s looking a little watery – for 15 mins until creamy. Stir in the lemon juice and season. 3 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and transfer the lentils to a 30cm-wide ovenproof pan or baking dish. Make four hollows with the back of a spoon and crack an egg into each. Season the eggs, put on a lid or cover with foil and bake for 10-12 mins until the eggs are cooked to your liking. 4 Meanwhile fry the cumin and coriander seeds for 1 min in a frying pan until popping. Loosen the remaining yogurt with enough water so it can be drizzled. 5 When the eggs are done, drizzle them and the lentils with the yogurt, then scatter with the toasted seeds and chopped coriander. Serve with warm breads. PER SERVING 449 kcals | fat 10.2G saturates 2G | carbs 54.4G | sugars 17.2G fibre 14.1G | protein 28G | salt 0.3G

Omega-3 fatty acids can support mental health

Sardines on toast Sweet shallots, plump raisins and sharp capers go perfectly with sardines in this nourishing Sicilian-style dish – pile the lot on toasted bread for a speedy, fuss-free meal for two. SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY 50g raisins 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 20g pine nuts 1 tbsp olive oil 1 long shallot, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 x 120ml tins of sardines in olive oil, drained ½ tbsp capers, rinsed 4 slices of wholemeal sourdough bread 2 tbsp finely chopped parsley 90g salad leaves, to serve

1 Put the raisins in a small bowl, cover with the vinegar and set aside for 10 mins. Meanwhile, put a frying pan over a medium-low heat and cook the pine nuts for 1 min until lightly golden, then immediately transfer to a plate. 2 Put the pan back over the heat and add the oil. Reduce the heat and cook the shallot and garlic for 5 mins until the shallots are softened and translucent. Add the raisins with the vinegar to the pan along with the pine nuts, sardines and capers. Gently stir together, trying to not to break up the fish, heating through for 5 mins. 3 Meanwhile, toast the bread. Stir the parsley into the sardine mixture and divide between the toasts. Season lightly to taste. Serve with the salad leaves alongside. PER SERVING 578 kcals | fat 30.4G | saturates 5G | carbs 43.2G sugars 19.7G | fibre 5G | protein 30.8G | salt 1.7G

Beans and pulses can give your gut health a boost

Beans on toast Ezme is a condiment flavour bomb – juicy tomatoes, sweet peppers, chilli heat and tangy pomegranate molasses, with the freshness of herbs, too. Perfect dolloped into dips, added to salads or, in this case, stirred into pulses for baked beans with a twist. SERVES 4 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 10 MINS EASY | V

400g tin of chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato purée 40g ezme (we used Belazu Ezme Mezze) ½ tsp ground cumin 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp honey 1 tsp worcestershire sauce (or vegetarian alternative) 2 tins of butter beans, drained 1 lemon, zested 4 slices of wholemeal sourdough toast 4 tbsp greek yogurt parsley, to serve

1 Combine the tomatoes, tomato purée, ezme, cumin, paprika, honey and worcestershire sauce in a large pan. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 mins until thickened and reduced. 2 Add the beans and cook, stirring, for 5 mins until heated through. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest. Season to taste. 3 Serve the beans with the toast and a dollop of yogurt, garnishing with the parsley. PER SERVING 374 kcals | fat 9.9G saturates 3.8G | carbs 47.5G | sugars 11.3G fibre 12.9G | protein 17.4G | salt 0.9G

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O READER OFFER

Dine and stay at Raymond Blanc’s Michelinstarred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons Enjoy an exceptional seven-course tasting menu in this exquisite Oxfordshire manor From

£685

Enjoy a very special stay at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, A Belmond Hotel and celebrate one of the country’s original garden-to-table destinations that continues to win critical acclaim. This hotel is the two-Michelin-starred vision of French chef, Raymond Blanc, so inside you’ll find French flourishes, especially in the exceptional food. The 32 individually designed guestrooms reflect the finest influences from around the world in their décor and furnishings, each inspired by Raymond’s extensive travels. Chef patron, Raymond Blanc, has created an exceptional culinary experience at Le Manoir. As each season arrives the chefs create menus which showcase the finest ingredients harvested from the gardens. Enjoy this unique gourmet experience for yourself with a seven-course dinner. You’ll also have a guided tour of the gardens and orchards with a senior gardener, giving you an insight into the exquisite produce grown here.

per person for one night*

HIGHLIGHTS • Michelin-starred tasting menu • Prepare your taste buds for a journey through the flavours of the season with an incredible seven-course tasting menu – the exceptional chefs will craft exquisite dishes showcasing the finest ingredients • The vegetable and herb gardens at Le Manoir provide the kitchen, and the acclaimed Raymond Blanc Cookery School, with fresh, organic produce – you’ll get to tour these gardens and learn more about their sustainable growing practices • Each of the manor house’s bedrooms has been decorated with influences from Raymond’s travels – maybe you’ll find toile de Jouy wallpaper or Chase Erwin fabrics in yours WHAT’S INCLUDED: • A welcome glass of champagne on arrival • One-night stay in a deluxe room, or you can upgrade to a suite • Seven-course seasonal dinner with coffee and petits-fours • Breakfast in L’Orangerie or in your guestroom • A guided tour of the 11 gardens and orchards with a senior gardener • A limited-edition Bon Voyage bag

To book call 03308 187 857 and quote ‘O Manoir’ or, for more information, visit O.tripsmiths.com/lemanoir TERMS AND CONDITIONS *From price is per person, based on two people sharing a deluxe room for a one-night stay. Offer subject to availability and valid for Sunday to Wednesday night stays until 30 November 2025 and blackout dates may apply. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Deposit required. Supplements available for extra nights and upgraded rooms. Local charges such as tourist tax may apply. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used may not reflect your actual tour experience. This holiday may be sold through other selected brands. Tour is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of Belmond.

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PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Bring the flavours of northern Thailand to your home, get the insider lowdown on Puerto Rico’s food culture and book a winter wellness break for the ultimate recharge

BOLTHOLE BREAKS Winter wellness Book into these relaxing retreats for a restful reset complete with five-star hospitality, smart restaurants and spa packages

Saltmoore, Whitby, North Yorkshire In a nutshell An Insta-ready wellness retreat with strong food credentials on the characterful North Yorkshire coast. What’s the vibe? This sprawling coastal chic hotel is owned by Love Island alumnus Montana Brown, with food overseen by local chef Tommy Banks of the Michelin-starred The Black Swan at Oldstead. The décor is true to the surrounding landscape – airy, seabreezy spaces and coastal blues, plus botanical notes and earthy, floral colours in ode to the nearby North York Moors, all served up with subtle flamboyance. Food and drink The smart Brasserie has a Banks-approved selection of modern European bistro dishes and plenty of local fish. In the more casual, family-friendly Beach House the pizzeria has a solid, minimalist menu with Yorkshire charcuterie toppings and signature Saltmoore tiramisu for after. The spa’s Wellness Café serves nourishing salads and colourful smoothies. Which room to book? Rooms are decadently furnished – in The Beach House suites include a rolltop bath in the main room, waterfall shower and opulent king-size bed. In the larger rooms there’s space for additional beds to accommodate families, and pets are welcome in lots of the spaces. What’s for breakfast? Breakfast is a combination of helpyourself patisserie, smoothies, cereal and toast, with an additional hot menu from the kitchen featuring pancakes, chorizo shakshuka, eggs served many ways and a full English. Wellbeing experiences The serene spa has a pool, cryochamber and Himalayan salt thermal room, with Wildsmith holistic treatments on offer.

WORDS; NATALIE HARDWICK, EMILY MARTEN

Rooms from £300 at Saltmoore House and £200 at The Beach House, saltmoore.co.uk.

Botanic Sanctuary, Antwerp, Belgium In a nutshell A city centre haven with four restaurants and a botanical health spa. What’s the vibe? Set across five historic buildings within landscaped botanical gardens, Botanic Sanctuary brings the outdoors in while seamlessly blending modern and traditional. Larger-than-life flower sculptures and statuesque palm trees stand proud in the main entrance. Décor is pared back with warm, earthy tones, exposed beam ceilings and stone walls. A selection of contemporary art from French playwright Jean Cocteau adds pops of monochrome chic, not to detract from views of the manicured gardens. Which room to book? Rooms are dotted around the five heritage buildings, some in the converted monasterium. Certain suites contain a fireplace for keeping snug, with the bathroom featuring a free-standing bath, double sink and rainfall shower. All rooms are stocked with Saint Charles toiletries from the on-site apothecary.

What’s for breakfast? There’s an elaborate continental buffet of smoked fish, cured meats, Belgian cheeses, crisp pastries and sliced sourdough, with fresh smoothies, a bloody mary station and champagne to quench your thirst. Cooked-to-order hot dishes include Fine Fleur’s pickled salmon with herby soft cheese on crisp brioche and Belgian waffle of the season. Wellbeing experiences Drift away at the Botanic Health Spa with a soothing full body massage, followed by a freshly pressed beetroot smoothie. The cooler of the two temperature-controlled saunas features an entire wall of pink Himalayan rock salt, and sunlight streams into the architectural greenhouse-style swimming pool with symmetry perfect enough to make Wes Anderson proud. Prices start at £350 per night for a classic room, botanicantwerp.be.

PHOTOGRAPHS: HUGO THOMASSEN PHOTOGRAPHY, JURGEN LIJCOPS

Food and drink Two Michelin-starred restaurants within the grounds guarantee a gastronomic stay, while Henry’s Bistro and Bar Bulot provide a more informal experience that is nevertheless a delight for the senses. Enjoy delicate cod fillet, dover sole or tenderloin with paprika straw potatoes at Henry’s Bistro, then retire to the lamp-adorned garden with homemade botanical tea and a cosy blanket. With classic brasserie dishes Bar Bulot combines crisp whites, navy tiles and plush velvet chairs. Crêpes suzette are flambéed at the table, while cocktails feature fresh garden herbs and homemade limoncello. One Michelinstarred Fine Fleur champions local produce with global culinary influences, while Hertog Jan, boasting two stars, is an immersive, Japanese-style omakase menu.

Britannia, Trondheim, Norway In a nutshell An elegantly renovated heritage hotel set in the centre of Trondheim and its striking surrounding fjords. What’s the vibe? Every corner of this luxuriously renovated building is coated in opulence – chandeliers suspended from high ceilings, gold-adorned columns rising from polished floors and an iconic mirror-lined marble staircase. Which room to book? The rooms ooze character, with original cornicing, high ceilings and large windows modernised with chic grey upholstered furniture and carrara marble bathrooms. The Hästens beds even have special mattresses made for enhancing sleep. If you’re celebrating a special occasion, the lavish penthouse Tower Suite built into the dome of the building includes a private wine cellar, grand piano and gold bathtub. Food and drink Michelin-starred Speilsalen curates a tasting menu that showcases Norwegian produce in dishes such as grouse with forest mushrooms and lingonberries or mountain char with white asparagus, enhanced with wine or juice pairings. Stylish Vinbaren specialises in small plates, including monkfish with cloudberries, and local cheeses with rye bread and apple purée, while Jonathan Grill offers an interactive, Japanese-style grill-at-the-table experience. What’s for breakfast? Taken in historic 1918 dining hall Palmehaven, the breakfast buffet groans with delicacies, all homemade or curated from Trøndersk producers. Think warm cinnamon buns, local cured meats and cheeses, honey from hives on the hotel’s roof, house-cured salmon and cold-pressed apple juice from Braattan Gaard farm. Cooked-to-order dishes include seasonal chia pudding, house-cured ham and Norvegia cheese on frisée salad, and fluffy Norwegian pancakes topped with brown cheese, cream and caramelised hazelnuts. Wellness experiences Pad down to the luxurious spa to rotate between gentle laps in the heated pool, dips in the mineral waters and sessions in the three Nordic saunas, steam room and infrared cabin. Prices start at £200, britannia.no.

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SUBSCRIBING IS EASY SCAN THE QR CODE and subscribe right away ORDER ONLINE at goodfood.com/in-mag CALL US ON 808 502 1510* This offer is only open to new UK customers subscribing to Good Food magazine by recurring payment methods. For Direct Debit and Continuous Credit Card offers you are free to cancel at any time. The closing date for this offer is 30 November 2025. The Cooks Professional 3.5 Litre Digital Slow Cooker is subject to availability. We reserve the right to fulfil all subsequent orders with a product of equal value. Please allow up to six weeks for delivery but we will endeavour to fulfil orders at the earliest opportunity. You will pay £49.99 every 12 months, saving 38% on the usual shop price. We reserve the right to reject or cancel subscriptions at any point if the customer has previously cancelled their subscription during the trial period for that magazine. The Good Food app is included with your print + digital subscription. Prices are discounted from the full UK subscription price and include P&P: UK £81; Europe and Republic of Ireland €88; USA and Canada US$115; Australia and New Zealand A$128; rest of the world US$107. *Our customer service team is available Monday-Friday, 9am-5pm (UK time). UK calls will cost the same as other standard fixed line numbers (starting 01 or 02) and are included as part of any inclusive or free allowances (if offered by your phone tariff). Outside of free call packages call charges from mobile phones will cost between 3 and 65p per minute. For US/Canada phone 855-551-0205.

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Save now on beautiful festive holly trees Create a stunning Christmas display framing doorways and entrances with this pair of berry-laden, lollipop-shaped holly trees Save £50

Standard holly trees with ‘Pinecone’ planters

(RRP £99.96) plus p&p*

• Add a touch of festive magic to the garden with a pair of holly tree standards. These real living trees produce iconic holly berries, perfect for holiday decorations • Place these garden plants on either side of a door, porch or gate for a warm and inviting entrance. Plus the supplied gold-effect planters add a touch of elegance to any space • These evergreen trees are very hardy and require minimal maintenance. They can produce berries each winter so are perfect additions to any garden during the festive season • Supplied as a pair of standard form trees, 80-100cm tall, plus a pair of 34cm decorative ‘Pinecone’ planters. These outdoor trees are ready to be planted in the garden or on the patio. The bonus plant pots provide a finishing touch to the overall look • These holly tree standards make a thoughtful gift for friends, family or neighbours

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To order, call 0844 502 0050** quoting O132 or visit yougarden.com/O132 TERMS AND CONDITIONS Orders dispatched in five to seven working days. Offer subject to availability and in the event that this offer is oversubscribed, we reserve the right to send suitable substitute varieties of the same or a higher value. Postage costs £6.99 per order. Free postage on compost orders only. Offer closes on 31 November 2025 or while stocks last. Delivery to UK only and a £3 surcharge may apply to some postcodes. Images show mature plants. Full product details and T&Cs at yougarden.com.

PHOTOGRAPH: STEVEN ROBINSON PICTURES/MOMENT/GETTY STYLING:XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXX.FOOD STYLING:XXXXXX XXXXXXXX. WORDS XXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX

the O guide to

Perthshire

Perthshire, the gateway to the Highlands, has a fast-growing food scene that has earned its reputation of being one of Scotland’s most upand-coming food destinations Words JULIA BRYCE

FINE ARTISANAL BAKED GOODS Aran Bakery Drawing regular queues to its snug 200-year-old home, this bakery in Dunkeld by former Great British Bake Off semi-finalist Flora Shedden is a local phenomenon. Laminated layers of croissants shine, buttery sausage rolls (pork, apple and sage is a go-to) and focaccia sandwiches sell out at speed, and the brownies and sweet and savoury danishes can’t be missed. A roster of seasonal bakes keeps regulars guessing but Flora’s cardamom buns remain the favourite. Grab a windowsill perch and watch the world go by, or order a takeaway to enjoy by the river. aran-bakery.com

FOR THOSE SEEKING LUXURY Gleneagles

SCOTTISH PRODUCE AT ITS HEART North Port In Perth’s cultural heart North Port champions Scottish produce with modern flair. Menus are short, seasonal and grounded in relationships with small growers, foragers and producers. Arbroath smokies pair neatly with Fife-grown beetroot, while Ayrshire potatoes arrive dressed in delicate herbs and a Black Isle rib-eye lands coated with chef-owner Andrew Moss’s mouth-watering house garlic butter. If it’s available the homemade haggis is a must-order. thenorthport.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS: FRASER BAND, ALEXANDER BAXTER

This stately escape for food lovers has six distinct dining rooms across its grand estate. At The Strathearn’s Gatsby-inspired dining room the sharing beef wellington is the headline act on the set menu, followed by tableside theatre in the famous flambéed crêpes suzette. Take a night cap at art deco The American Bar but don’t go overboard as an indulgent morning awaits. Gleneagles’ extravagant breakfast room features pancake stations, juice and caprese salad bars, and Scottish staples including haggis and smoked salmon. gleneagles.com

INDIE WINE BAR WITH TIES TO NAPA VALLEY Redwood Wines There may be more than 5,000 miles between Dunkeld and Napa Valley but this small restaurant and wine bar brings a flavour of California to Scotland. Morgwn Preston-Jones and his wife Roseanna make the most of family ties to wineries, pouring exclusive bottlings to accompany lunch or dinner. To eat, expect handmade pastas, peak-season vegetables and Scotland’s best Aberdeen Angus roast beef sandwich. Despite having few tables the communal wooden dining bench in the centre fills up with locals and travellers. It’s the kind of place where a quick glass becomes dinner. redwoodwines.co.uk

THE WORLD’S BEST CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier Grandtully’s award-winning chocolate shop and café is a pilgrimage that any sweet-toothed traveller should embrace. Watch the chocolatiers at work and book an audio-guided tasting, including signature velvet chocolate truffles, then get cosy in the lounge with a thick, luxurious and glossy hot chocolate made for slow sipping. Shelves are lined with pralines, seasonal boxes and gifts to take home. highlandchocolatier.com

WINE SAFARIS TO FARM TOURS Monachyle Mhor Set on a working farm, this lochside hotel in Balquhidder is surrounded by wilderness. There’s a huge emphasis on foraging, preserving and growing produce, with daily changing dishes served in the informal dining room for lunch or dinner. Of the outdoor activities on offer a favourite is the wine safari. Starting with breakfast and a glass of bubbles at sister venue Mhor 84, guests experience a hillside food demonstration with drinks, lochside wine tasting, plus a fire-lit feast paired with outstanding bottlings. It’s the perfect day out. Pay the bakery Mhor Bread in Callander a visit, too. monachylemhor.net

JULIA BRYCE IS AN AWARD-WINNING SCOTTISH JOURNALIST FROM ABERDEEN, REGULARLY TRAVELLING THROUGH REGIONAL SCOTLAND TO EXPLORE ITS FOOD AND DRINK SCENE. SHE WAS NAMED SCOTTISH FOOD AND DRINK INFLUENCER OF THE YEAR IN 2024 BY THE SCOTSMAN’S SCRAN AWARDS, APPEARED ON NETFLIX FOOD AND TRAVEL SHOW SOMEBODY FEED PHIL AND HAS HER OWN RADIO SHOW ON ORIGINAL 106 ON SUNDAYS FROM 1-5PM.

EXCEPTIONAL DINING Restaurant Andrew Fairlie

PHOTOGRAPHS: KIMBERLEY GRANT, CLAIRE WADDELL

Tucked within Gleneagles, Restaurant Andrew Fairlie offers an intimate dining experience where service is precise and intentional. Retaining two Michelin star recognition since 2006, the kitchen leans on classical French techniques and seasonal fare, featuring produce harvested from the secret kitchen garden. Highlights include herb-crusted lamb loin, hand-dived scallops and homegrown cep mushrooms, plus Andrew’s signature smoked lobster. Those ordering the seven-course tasting menu are treated to exclusive dishes including roe deer and caviar. andrewfairlie.co.uk

MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE The Grandtully Hotel by Ballintaggart A contemporary village retreat, The Grandtully Hotel by Ballintaggart lets local seasonal ingredients shine. When the sun breaks, the terrace is the spot for small plates and cocktails, and inside the dining room keeps things relaxed yet elevated. Nearby sister venue Ballintaggart Farm runs cookery classes and spirited feast nights through the seasons celebrating Easter, Bonfire Night, Christmas and Hogmanay, always drawing a loyal, hungry crowd. Before you leave browse the on-site shop shelves for homemade goods including the excellent granola. ballintaggart.com/ grandtully-hotel

RIVERSIDE ELEGANCE The Taybank Set on the banks of the River Tay, this independent hotel, bar and restaurant showcases seasonal produce from the walled garden in dishes including the Tokyo turnip salad, Perthshire venison haunch and Gigha halibut. Scottish trad sessions with artists such as fiddler Liam Manion take place regularly on Thursdays in the cosy bar but, for an extra special experience, book a long table event by the riverside. Tables are brimming with flowers and candles, and it’s a convivial experience to meet locals. There’s also a sauna with breathtaking views, so you can dine and relax in style. thetaybank.co.uk

INDULGE IN JAPANESE KAISEKI Killiecrankie House At Killiecrankie House on the outskirts of Pitlochry, dinner unfolds in a multi-course journey that nods to Japanese kaiseki while showcasing Scotland’s larder. Expect playful plates of beef tartare with caviar, mackerel with yuzu and beetroot with gochujang, plus signature dripping fried porridge, a nod to Scots tradition. The drinks list features sakes and Chinese wines alongside Scottish spirits. The chef’s table is undoubtedly the best seat, and the bedrooms upstairs make it easy to turn an excellent fine-dining meal into a short escape. killiecrankiehouse.com

CRIEFF: TOP 5

PHOTOGRAPHS: KIMBERLEY GRANT, ALEXANDER BAXTER, MARC MILLAR PHOTOGRAPHY, TINA LEAH

This charming Highland Perthshire town may have once been a fashionable Victorian getaway spot but Crieff’s quietly bubbling food scene has reinvented it as a must-visit haven. Home to the country’s most in-demand restaurant, executive chef Mark Donald and his team have manoeuvred The Glenturret Lalique (theglenturretrestaurant.com) to two Michelin star recognition. Attached to Scotland’s oldest working distillery, the restaurant is a high-end gastronomic experience which blends tradition with art. Artisan bakeries are having their moment. Ems and Co (emspastryshop.co.uk) pastry shop has a daily changing menu of 12 different cakes, twisted buns and eclairs, while Damsel Bakery (@ damselbakery) around the corner is committed to bringing the best sourdough to the area. Expect croissants, iced finger rolls, savoury buns and more. A 10-minute drive from Crieff, you’ll find the whimsical Gorse Café (comriecroft.com), a woodland café nestled in nature at Comrie Croft, home to jaw-dropping sandwiches (open April-October). For a sensational Sunday lunch five minutes’ drive from Crief, historic spot Coorie Inn (coorie-inn. com) is the perfect relaxing getaway with a side of local fare. Try the North Sea crab and Perthshire pork belly or, if you want a Sunday lunch centrepiece, pre-book the corn-fed whole roast chicken. A standard king room is from £195, book direct for the best rates.

Escapes to embrace autumn Skip the heatwaves and the crowds, and discover a whole new side to some of Europe’s most popular summer destinations by visiting in the autumn instead

Lake Como, Italy Northern Italy’s lakes are a better bet in autumn. It’s still warm, the scenery transforms to reddish-gold hues and, if it rains, the lakes take on a wonderfully misty atmosphere. Once the summer crowds have left, towns like Varenna and Bellagio are quieter and calmer, and wandering the streets or eating dinner on the waterfront is more joy than jostle. Sights such as Villa del Balbianello, known for its striking gardens and architecture, are free of queues – it’s no wonder this spectacular spot has hosted so many celebrity weddings and film shoots.

Sitting in Italy’s northern Lombardy region, seasonal produce during autumn includes local fish, mushrooms and chestnuts. As the evenings cool it’s a great time of year to tuck into dishes such as polenta with wild mushrooms, cinghiale (braised wild boar) or pumpkin ravioli with sage. After an aperitivo on Bellagio’s lake front, head up into the hills to Ristorante La Madonnina di Barni – its mountain view sets a cosy spot to enjoy venison stew or porcini mushroom risotto. October is also chestnut season – ask locals about the nearest castagnata, a chestnut festival.

WORDS: MEERA DATTANI. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIRKO COSTANTINI/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, ANADOLU, ARIS OIKONOMOU/AFP, JOHN KEEBLE/GETTY

4 G R E AT G E TAWAY S

Málaga, Spain This compact coastal city is one of Spain’s most underrated, packed with cobbled streets, family-run restaurants, cosy tapas bars and both a fine and street art scene – not to mention its proximity to the beach and cooler inland mountain towns like Mijas and Ronda. Without the summer crowds and heat it’s infinitely more pleasant to walk along the pier Muelle Uno, cycle to the coast or enjoy the views from Gibralfaro Castle and Málaga’s many rooftop terraces and bars. The city is home to Hammam Al Ándalus, an impressive Moroccanstyle hammam with baths and treatments. In October the aroma of roasted chestnuts will surround you as you explore the city, as street-side vendors smoke this seasonal highlight. Autumn is also a fruit fest with custard apples, persimmons and fresh figs available. Try torta de higos – fig cake with a slice of Spanish cheese. Head to Atarazanas market for the freshest autumnal produce from stalls, kiosks, bars and restaurants. Just steps away is Palodú restaurant – sit at the counter to watch the chefs prepare seasonal tasting menus.

Athens, Greece Autumn is a chance to beat the Greek capital’s high temperatures and tourist numbers. November can be heavenly here and queues for popular sights such as the Acropolis and Parthenon are a lot more manageable, while walking through the neighbourhoods of Plaka, below the Acropolis, and Anafiotika, on the slopes of the Acropolis, feels like less of a tourist route. While Greek food favourites are available year-round – such as slow-cooked lamb kleftiko or flaky spinach and cheese spanakopita – autumn is an opportunity to try seasonal dishes like fasolada (white bean soup) and spetzofai (sausage and pepper stew). The Central Municipal Market is a top spot for food gifts, or stop for an ouzo and mezedes (snacks) at Karayiannis in the fish market section. The courtyards in Exarchia and Petralona are ideal for a spontaneous drink, or try Pangrati and Kolonaki for street-side dining. A long-standing favourite is Dexameni with its leafy setting in Kolonaki: great prices and simple food done well, like halloumi with fig marmalade or beef patties with basil and almonds.

The Turkish Riviera This 600-mile coastline in southwestern Turkey (across the provinces of Antalya, Muğla and Aydın), also known as the Turquoise Coast, stretches along the Aegean and Mediterranean seas. A drop in temperature as autumn rolls in is great for walkers, who can hike through pine forest along parts of the Lycian Way (a 320-mile trail between Antalya and Fethiye). On the beaches it’s still warm and calm enough to go waterskiing, paragliding and bodyboarding. Book a gulet (traditional schooner) cruise for a serene day at sea. Kaş is a dream to explore with its boutiques and cafés, or head to UNESCO World Heritage site Pamukkale’s natural spa. Mushrooms and chestnuts are a regular autumnal feature but pumpkin is Turkey’s seasonal highlight, from pumpkin soup to pumpkin desserts served with tahini drizzle or a sprinkling of walnuts. Another is pomegranate – not just the fruit but molasses and seeds too. Try kısır, a bulgur wheat salad topped with one or both. A popular spot with locals is 7 Mehmet, one of Antalya’s oldest restaurants. Located inland, its third-generation chef-owner serves family recipes unchanged since 1937, and others with a twist, like rice pilaf with pineapple and bergamot.

MEERA DATTANI IS A FREELANCE TRAVEL AND CULTURE JOURNALIST, AND EXECUTIVE EDITOR AT AWARD-WINNING TRAVEL PUBLICATION ADVENTURE.COM. HER SPECIALITIES INCLUDE SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL AND HERITAGE TOURISM, AND SHE IS A MEMBER OF THE BRITISH GUILD OF TRAVEL WRITERS. @NOFIXEDPLANS 75

PRO VS PUNTER

ELEPHANT

Critic KS Tong and an O reader compare notes on this historic pub turned Italian restaurant in east London

he décor isn’t the only thing that’s been refreshed in this Victorian Hackney pub that’s brimming with period features – there’s also the arrival of Elephant, the latest venture by serial restaurateur Stevie Thomas (co-founder of The Rum Kitchen) and the talented Francesco Sarvonio (Manteca, Oranj, Naughty Piglets). Elephant blends a bold hospitality experience with contemporary Italian flair and aims to bring a fresh focus on southern Italian food – a region that’s very personal to chef Francesco – to east London. Add a serious drinks offering, including a global wine list and inventive cocktails, and richly layered design that pays tribute to east London’s cinematic past, it’s little surprise that Elephant has already made a big impression, proving popular with locals. elephanthackney.com

Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the City by day but spends his free time exploring and eating wherever his palate takes him. From street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, nothing is off the table, and he shares it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here.

Our pro says From the first bite of ox cheek beef croquette served with umami-rich anchovy butter I knew I was going to like this one. Francesco Sarvonio comes with a reputation, having honed his craft most recently at Manteca in Shoreditch. But with Elephant he aims to bring a homely, rustic feel to the menu, with a touch of nostalgia. Dishes like the ziti genovese ragu is, as he puts it, “just like nonna used to make it”, served at the table from a porcelain dish. You can’t help but be transported to his memories of his home. But, surprisingly, it’s the neapolitan pizza that takes centre stage, and they take it seriously, using traditional low yeast and slow-proofed dough but with reimagined takes on classic flavours. This is epitomised by the Elephant marinara, loaded with rich tomato passata, caper leaves, confit garlic and anchovies – a pizza worthy of signature status and a victory for the dairy intolerant. Finish with a decadent house tiramisu to share and tour the extensive cocktail list (I recommend the Climpson & Sons espresso martini, for which the coffee is brewed using a La Marzocco Linea PB machine) while you marvel at the 25-year-old skylight – salvaged from a former East End cinema – that dominates the dining room, which is filled with prints by David Shrigley, vintage Italian film posters and a nostalgic Disney Dumbo piece. Elephant is what a local watering hole should be: warm and inviting, with an accessible menu that has just enough variety to ensure each visit is fresh. Founder Stevie says he wanted to create something “fun, where you spend an affordable amount and leave feeling full”. He’s definitely achieved that. TOTAL BILL FOR TWO £91.13, including service ATMOSPHERE 9/10 SERVICE 8/10 FOOD 9/10

Chiara Pinto is a psychotherapist from London. Her favourite cuisine is French and her most memorable meal was the tasting menu at Gauthier, where she made the rookie mistake of eating too much delicious bread.

Our punter says It would be easy to walk straight past Elephant’s unassuming frontage but to do so would be a tragedy. Inside is a Victorian pub with a beautiful vaulted glass skylight. From the elegant candles to the elephants embroidered on the napkins, you can tell love and care has gone into every detail. Even on a rainy evening Elephant was buzzing and everyone was welcomed with attentive service. There are cocktails (£8) but it’s worth enquiring about the off-menu options. Elephant has a low-waste ethos and on the night we were there tomato water was being repurposed into dirty martinis – I think everyone can get on board with sustainability when it involves drinking martinis! The bar manager also said they were experimenting with fat-washing: burrata-infused vodka sounds delicious. The Italian menu is short, divided into small plates, larger sharing plates and pizzas. We started with ox cheek croquettes with anchovy mayonnaise. Anchovy can be divisive but here it added a deeply savoury hum to the melting softness of the ox cheek. For mains we went for rib-eye steak – the meat was well marbled and blushing, accompanied by potatoes usually cooked in brown butter and rosemary (my guest has a dairy intolerance so the chef agreed to do ours with garlic and olive oil instead). Savoury is definitely the kitchen’s strength – the tiramisu wasn’t great as it was topped with a salty, bitter crumb. Get another plate of croquettes instead! Overall this is great value for such a level of warmth and creativity. TOTAL BILL FOR TWO £88.31, including service ATMOSPHERE 9/10 SERVICE 9/10 FOOD 9/10

KEEP AN EYE ON @Omagazine ON INSTAGRAM FOR A VIDEO TOUR OF ELEPHANT

THE MEASURE Try a rum manhattan, next-level cocktail glasses and listening bars this month Words HANNAH GUINNESS

INGREDIENT COCKTAIL Spiced rum manhattan

Put 60ml of spiced rum, 30ml of sweet red vermouth and a couple of dashes of orange bitters into a cocktail shaker filled with ice, and stir well. Strain into a coupe glass and garnish with an orange twist.

COCKTAIL GLASSES TO TRY Anton Studio Designs Rio striped coupe cocktail glasses (£37.50/set of two, John Lewis) Every cocktail lover needs some decent coupe glasses and these playful handmade ones are just the ticket – we also like that they have a larger 300ml capacity, perfect for bigger cocktails.

Olive martini glasses (£29.50/set of two, Oliver Bonas)

The Conran Shop Nova glasses (£40/set of four, Selfridges) Pretty highball glasses are a must-have in your glassware collection, good for soft drinks and long cocktails alike. The jolly scarlet stripe design in this set makes them extra covetable.

While we are never without our beloved nick & noras, we also appreciate a chunkier martini glass, and these ones come with chic glass olive picks.

COCKTAIL PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: TAMSIN WESTON. FOOD STYLIST: JESSICA MCINTOSH. ADDITIONAL WORDS: EMILY MARTEN. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: DANIEL GAHR, TOM MARTIN

Using spiced rum instead of whisky in a manhattan adds a warming richness and smoothness to this classic cocktail. We prefer using a drier variety like Black Tears Dry Spiced Rum but if you don’t have this you could use a 50/50 mixture of traditional spiced rum and aged dark rum.

Mad Cats Shoreditch, London A Shoreditch listening bar with a compact cocktail selection that chooses quality over quantity. Chopsticks rest on handpainted model cats, DJs spin vinyl only and an abundance of high-fidelity speakers keep audiophiles content. Don’t miss a trip to the bathroom through the blue velvet curtain where The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy is played on a speaker directly in your cubicle. madcats.uk What to order Try drinks like the Lebanese-inspired Zaza cocktail, a spin on a classic tequila martini with infused za’atar oil.

BAR HOPPER Listening bars

Drinking spots tailored for audiophiles, with high-end sound systems and meticulously curated music selections

Holding Patterns Leeds This community-minded, bar-café hybrid – fittingly located in what was once a radio station – is a haven for music, coffee and book nerds alike. Opened in late 2024, it has a 60-person capacity main space as well as a cosier, book-lined nook in the back. Expect DJ sets and artist performances every Friday and Saturday night, while daytimes are for reading and chilling out, all to a perfect soundtrack, of course. holdingpatternslds.co.uk What to order Drinks offerings include coffee from Yorkshire’s Casa Espresso, Top Cuvée curated natty wines and a roster of classic cocktails – make ours a rum old fashioned, please.

Bar Shiru Oakland, California Bar Shiru bills itself as the Bay Area’s first hi-fi vinyl listening bar, playing mostly jazz, soul and international tunes. Inspired by Tokyo’s jazz kissa cafés, it’s an immersive spot for music lovers – the space is designed to prioritise acoustics, albums are played in their entirety and there’s a weekly programme of events, including listening parties. barshiru.com What to order Explore the Japanese whisky heavy spirits list, craft cocktails (including plenty of Japanese-inspired highballs) and roster of sake and local beers and wines.

Christmas Sides that will complete your big day spread

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We’ve got the festive season covered with 100 recipes for edible gifts, starters, mains, desserts and more

Buffet ideas for feeding bigger crowds

Available in shops from 10 October

WINE

101

LEBANESE WINE

with Kate Hawkings Discover ancient Lebanese viticulture with wines from the Bekaa Valley to sip alongside a Middle Eastern spread

What’s special about Lebanese wine? More than 5,000 years ago the sea-faring Phoenicians were based in modern-day Lebanon and began trading their wine with settlements all around the Mediterranean. They also took vines and viticultural know-how, which established the wine industries in many of those countries that survive to this day. This ancient wine culture was revived in the 19th century by French clergymen who planted vines in the Bekaa Valley, where most Lebanese wine is still made. The Bekaa is a high-altitude plateau 1,200 metres above sea level – cool summer nights maintain grape freshness while cold winters kill off diseases.

PHOTOGRAPH: KAVEH KAZEMI/GETTY IMAGES NEWS. ILLUSTRATION: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE

THE FINER DETAILS

Lebanon’s modern history has been plagued by political instability, financial crisis, occupation and war. But the Lebanese are brave and resilient people, and for decades their wineries have continued to produce their distinctive wines in the face of adversity. Most grapes planted are familiar French varietals that suit the climate well but some ancient indigenous grapes are also

Main grapes

White Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier, obeideh, merwah Red Cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cinsault, carignan, merlot, meksassi, mourad, soubbagh

Perfect pairings Lebanese wines are generally robust and have bags of flavour, so think of food along the same lines. A Middle Eastern meze spread would be ideal, the whites and rosés going particularly well with hummus strewn with pomegranate seeds, tabbouleh and cheese pastries, while the reds are brilliant with olives, spiced meat kebabs, grilled lamb chops and anything using aubergines or tomatoes.

grown. Domaine des Tourelles particularly champions old vines, including some that grow wild on the slopes of Mount Lebanon and are more than 150 years old – its fabulous orange wine called Skin is made from these.

Travelling g to Lebanon At the time of writing the UK government advises against all but essential travel to Lebanon, which is all the more reason to support this beleaguered country by buying its wonderful wines. But do bookmark it for

the future when hopefully stability returns. It’s a really beautiful country and its vibrant capital, Beirut, is full of fantastic food, wine, music and the indefatigable joie de vivre of the Lebanese people.

3 PRODUCERS TO TRY Château Musar Jeune Rosé (£15.50, londonendwines.com) Founded in 1930, Château Musar was the first to bring Lebanese wine to the attention of the UK wine trade in 1976. Its Bordeaux-inspired reds are particularly sought after but this mourvèdre/cinsault blend rosé has plenty of Lebanese character too. Like a fruit salad of raspberries, watermelon, nectarines and orange blossom with a whisper of citrus and nutmeg. Ksara Blanc de Blancs (£18.87, strictlywine.co.uk) Château Ksara was established by Jesuit monks in 1857 who planted vines for sacramental wine. Ancient Roman cellars were discovered on the same site in 1898 and are still used by Ksara to store its wines. This is a blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon with some barrel-fermented chardonnay – opulent, tropical fruit but with plenty of freshness and a slight nuttiness. Domaine des Tourelles Cuvée Pierre Brun (£14, majestic.co.uk) François-Eugène Brun recognised the Bekaa’s wine potential and built Lebanon’s oldest commercial winery in 1868. Faouzi Issa now brings modern elan to these historic wines, like this cabernet, syrah, cinsault and carignan, aged in concrete vats for two years – dark fruits layered with cloves, cedar wood and a hint of rosemary.

• Become a wine expert at Omagazine.com, with tips on must-try grapes and bottles, and the best vineyards to visit KATE HAWKINGS IS A WRITER AND WINE CONSULTANT. HER LATEST BOOK, THE LITTLE BOOK OF APERITIFS: 50 CLASSIC COCKTAILS AND DELIGHTFUL DRINKS, IS OUT NOW (£10, QUADRILLE). FOLLOW HER ON INSTAGRAM @KATE_HAWKINGS. 81

10 Puerto Rico

THINGS I LOVE ABOUT

Martin Louzao, head chef of Cocina Abierta, shares the highlights of Puerto Rican cuisine and culture from his island home

Tropical fruits Over 1,000 exotic fruits grow here, guava is the most popular currently. Everything is guava flavoured, from cocktails to energy drinks. You can also find it in a paste for eating with cheese and crackers or even adding to toasted sandwiches. It is also reported to be a fantastic hangover cure!

Alcapurria de jueyes Alcapurria are a filled fritter with dough made from plantain and taro. They’re usually filled with ground pork but the crab ones are delicious, with a rich sauce and chunky pieces of crab. I love alcapurria de jueyes because it connects me to the past, to a pre-industrial time when people cooked with local ingredients.

Traditional Christmas food Christmas is a hugely important time in Puerto Rico. We make pasteles, which are similar to a tamale but made with green plantain and cassava. We fill them with roasted pork and sofrito, a flavour base for our cooking made of onions, sweet peppers, garlic, tomatoes and coriander, though every family has their own version.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JHEINIMANN, STEVE BLY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Fresh fish In Puerto Rico commercial fishing is artisanal and regulated. There are around 170 species in our underwater ecosystems, from mahi-mahi to snook and yellowfin tuna. They can be prepared in all manner of ways, such as bacalao (salted), ceviche or carpaccio. At Cocina Abierta we roast snook in our wood-fired oven and serve with a coconut beurre blanc – it is one of our favourites.

Coffee Coffee has been grown in the mountains of Puerto Rico since the 18th century and at the time was Puerto Rico’s biggest export to Europe. Some haciendas still produce coffee today, commonly growing Arabica beans. A popular serve is término medio, which essentially means ‘half and half’ – a perfect blend of milk and coffee. The waterfalls in El Yunque Puerto Rico has diverse landscapes – of course we are famous for our beautiful beaches but we also have mountains and a rainforest called El Yunque. It has almost 29,000 acres of lush greenery and three large waterfalls. There is nothing better than standing underneath a waterfall on some of our hottest days.

Piña coladas The piña colada originated in Puerto Rico, although there is still debate as to where. The mixture of rum, coconut and pineapple juice is a refreshing drink to sip on as the sun sets. Rincón, a surf town on the west coast, has some of the best in the world. Mangrove forests in Piñones The biggest network of natural mangroves in Puerto Rico – it really is an ecological paradise. Follow a trail near the reefs where you can spot wildlife such as sea turtles, crabs and all varieties of birds. Pack a cooler full of alcapurrias and oysters to enjoy at the end.

Attending a Bomba event Bomba is the traditional dance of Puerto Rico, blending the three cultural heritages: African, Spanish and Taíno (indigenous people). The dance is a lively call and response style between a drummer and a dancer. Events are full of joy and celebration as well as delicious food. You can sample delicacies such as lechón asado (slow-roasted pork marinated in mojo sauce) and pasteles.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTIN WHEELER, RUSSELL KORD, LISA TOP, NEWSCOM/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Caribbean lobster Sometimes called spiny lobster, this is a species with a firmer textured meat than Atlantic lobsters. We serve them with a chilli crisp, which is a winning combination.

Turn the page for O’s tips on where to eat and stay in Puerto Rico

ARGENTINIAN-BORN MARTIN LOUZAO TAUGHT HIMSELF TO COOK FROM COOKBOOKS AS A CHILD. HE WENT TO CULINARY SCHOOL AS SOON AS HE COULD, BEFORE SETTLING IN PUERTO RICO’S SAN JUAN AND CO-FOUNDING THE CINCOSENTIDOS CULINARY GROUP, RESPONSIBLE FOR RESTAURANTS, A COOKING SCHOOL AND A VIRTUAL PRODUCE MARKET ALL CHAMPIONING SUSTAINABLE PRACTISES. @MARTINLOUZAO

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Cocina Abierta Chef Martin’s restaurant is a masterclass in Puerto Rican flavour, and the duck mofongo is a must-try. This was one of the first restaurants to re-open after hurricane Maria, when they rallied together and fed the local community. cocinaabierta.net La Faena Head chef Kevin García centres on local, seasonal ingredients. The restaurant collaborates with farmers all over the island, resulting in a fresh, exciting menu in a relaxed atmosphere. instagram.com/lafaena.pr Frutos del Guacabo This is a small but mighty farm focussing on hydroponics and sustainable farming. Take a guided tour and sample all the things the

farm has to offer, including milking a goat. It grows everything from mangos to chillies, pomegranates, lime leaves and microherbs to supply local restaurants and communities. frutosdelguacabo.com Flavors Food Tours An in-depth cultural insight away from the classic tourist spots of San Juan, peppered with samples such as ceviche, Puerto Rican coffee and pure fruit ice lollies, as well as snippets of social and cultural history. sanjuanfoodtours.com Hacienda Tres Angeles Up in the mountains of Puerto Rico this idyllic family-run coffee farm offers incredible views and warm hospitality. Seeing the bean to cup experience really makes you appreciate the coffee we rely on every day. haciendatresangeles.com

WHERE TO STAY Aïre de O:live A stone’s throw from some of the most stunning beaches, Aire de O:live has a luxury, laid-back, bohemian vibe. The 80-room hotel gives a more personal feel and you’re very much encouraged to view it as a home away from home. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, furnished with sustainable materials such as wood, rattan and cotton, and use low-energy light bulbs, many with a sea view. There are two great spots to eat – the rooftop Japanese restaurant KUMO offers relaxed fare such as burrata and wagyu sliders, while AWWA, the raw bar, has dishes such as sashimi with passion fruit, and offers an omakase with Puerto Rican touches. There is a rooftop pool for relaxing with a cocktail, or walk the 30 seconds to the beach for a dip in the sea. airedeolive.com

COOK LIKE A LOCAL

Northern Thailand This region’s food culture is a masterclass in gathering communities around the table for dishes infused with flavours from the landscape Words and recipes CHARIYA KHATTIYOT Photographs CLARE WINFIELD

t’s no surprise that Northern Thailand’s cuisine is as layered and vibrant as the region itself – a misty, mountainous landscape bordering Burma and Laos, shaped by forested hills, cool air and centuries of Lanna tradition. Here food is built around earthy, herbal and fermented flavours. Meals begin with warm sticky rice, the region’s staple, rolled by hand and dipped into bold chilli relishes. One of the most beloved is nam prik ong, a fragrant pork and tomato relish, served with crisp vegetables and crunchy pork crackling – a contrast of textures that defines the northern table. Curry here is slower, deeper. Gaeng hung lay is a rich pork belly stew spiced with tamarind, ginger and garlic – mellow, warming and influenced by Burmese cooking. Grilled meat plays a big role too. Northern-style pork barbecue, marinated in herbs and grilled over charcoal, is eaten with sticky rice, green papaya and dipping sauce. The colours are earthy – turmeric golds, banana leaf greens and chilli reds. Ingredients like lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves and fermented soybeans appear in everything from soups to sausages. Eating in Northern Thailand is communal. In villages, meals are served on low circular trays called khantoke, with dishes placed in the middle for everyone to share. Food is often cooked over wood or charcoal fires, and the air is filled with the scent of herbs, smoke and spice. The cuisine is humble yet refined, shaped by nature, memory and instinct – a living tradition that brings people together, whether in a street market, a temple fair or a quiet family home.

Pumpkin curry (gaeng fak thong) This always takes me back to the days when we had pumpkin plants growing in the backyard. The leaves were so big, I remember thinking they were larger than my head. The pumpkins were green on the outside but bright orange on the inside. Now, living away from home, I tweak the recipe to use butternut squash, which is easier to find but still tastes just as good. My mum told me this was my grandma’s favourite dish. I was too young to remember her since she passed away when I was little but every time I cook it I imagine sharing it with her, hoping she would have loved it as much as I do. SERVES 3-4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY

1 First, prepare the chilli paste, if using. Using a blender or pestle and mortar, combine the chillies, garlic, shallots and shrimp paste. Blend or pound to a smooth paste. 2 Heat a large pan over a medium heat, then fry the chilli paste for 3-5 mins until fragrant. 3 Pour in the stock and bring to a gentle boil. Add the squash and simmer for 15-20 mins. 4 Stir in the beans, corn, onions and courgette. Simmer for 10-12 mins or until all the vegetables are tender. 5 Season the curry with fish sauce and stir in the chopped dill. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more fish sauce or ground black pepper if needed. 6 Serve the curry garnished with extra dill and jasmine rice. PER SERVING (4) 159 kcals | fat 1G | saturates 0.1G carbs 26G | sugars 16G | fibre 9G | protein 7G | salt 4.8G

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: ENVIROMANTIC/E+/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

1 litre vegetable stock 500-600g butternut squash, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces 100g fine green beans, cut into bite-sized pieces 100g baby corn, cut into bite-sized pieces 2 onions, cut into bite-sized pieces 1 courgette, sliced 4 tbsp fish sauce small handful of dill, roughly chopped, plus extra to garnish steamed jasmine rice, to serve CHILLI PASTE 2 large hot red chillies, chopped 2 large green chillies 4 garlic cloves, chopped 2 small shallots, chopped 2 tsp shrimp paste

Larb muang This was the dish my family loved to cook every Sunday, our special gathering day. It reminds me of how families here come together for Sunday lunch. We’d prepare this dish, serving half of it raw for the adults and the other half cooked for the children. I always stuck with the cooked version, I never dared to try the raw one. After lunch the whole family would gather around our small TV watching boxing matches. It wasn’t just about the food, it was about spending time with family and sharing simple joys.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, HADYNYAH/E+/GETTY, PICTURES FROM HISTORY/UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP/GETTY

SERVES 2-3 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 300g pork mince handful of coriander leaves, chopped 2-3 spring onions, chopped 2 tbsp fish sauce 1 pork stock cube steamed sticky rice, jasmine rice or lettuce leaves, to serve CHILLI MIX 2 tbsp vegetable oil 10 medium dried red chillies 2 large dried red chillies 4 garlic cloves, chopped 2 small shallots, halved 1 tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp szechuan peppercorns 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 /2 thumb-sized piece of galangal, sliced 1 lemongrass stalk, sliced CRISPY SHALLOTS AND GARLIC 500ml vegetable oil 3 shallots, thinly sliced 1 tbsp cornflour 5 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced

1 First prepare the chilli mix. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the chillies, garlic, shallots, cumin and coriander seeds, peppercorns, cinnamon, galangal and lemongrass for 3-5 mins until fragrant. Remove from the heat, transfer to a blender or use a pestle and mortar to blend or pound to a coarse paste. 2 To prepare the crispy shallots and garlic, heat the oil in a small pan over a medium heat. Toss the shallots in the cornflour until lightly coated then fry for 3-4 mins until golden and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil. 3 Using the same oil, fry the garlic for 2-3 mins until golden and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper, reserving 3 tbsp of the garlic frying oil. 4 In a large pan or wok, heat the reserved garlic frying oil over a medium heat. Fry the chilli mix for 2-3 mins until fragrant. Add the pork and fry until browned and fully cooked, breaking up any clumps with a wooden spoon. Stir in the coriander, spring onions, fish sauce and crumbled stock cube. Mix well and cook for 2 mins. 5 Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the crispy shallots and garlic. Serve while hot with steamed sticky rice, jasmine rice or lettuce leaves. PER SERVING (3) 603 kcals | fat 43G | saturates 7G carbs 20G | sugars 6G | fibre 13G | protein 27G | salt 3.4G

Crying tiger beef salad (yum nua seua rong hai) Crying tiger beef salad is a dish as intriguing as its name. It is beloved for celebrations and special occasions, partly because steak is considered a luxury in Thailand, making it a rare and meaningful treat. The tender grilled beef paired with bold, spicy and tangy flavours turns every bite into something extraordinary. Its rarity makes it even more special and it’s a dish everyone loves to share when marking life’s big moments. SERVES 1-2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY | GF 200-300g sirloin steak 3 tbsp vegetable oil 200g Little Gem lettuce, to serve DRESSING 2 tbsp dried chilli flakes 3 tbsp lime juice 3 tbsp fish sauce 1 tsp brown sugar 1 red onion, sliced 1 large hot red chilli, thinly sliced 100g cherry tomatoes, halved handful of coriander, stalks and leaves chopped, plus extra to garnish 3 spring onions, thinly sliced

1 Season the steak with a pinch of salt and black pepper on both sides. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Once hot, sear the steak for 2-3 mins on each side for medium-rare or adjust to your preference. Remove the steak from the pan to rest for 5 mins before slicing into thin strips. 2 Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl, combine the chilli flakes, lime juice, fish sauce and sugar, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Add the onion, chilli, tomatoes, coriander and spring onions, then toss gently to combine. 3 Arrange the lettuce leaves on a serving platter, lay the steak on top, then spoon the dressing over the top and garnish with some coriander.

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Recipes extracted from Lanna by Chariya Khattiyot (£22, Ryland Peters & Small). Photographs: Clare Winfield. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

CONTENT

GROUP MAGAZINES EDITOR Keith Kendrick DEPUTY MAGAZINES EDITOR Janine Ratcliffe HEAD OF DIGITAL DELIVERY

Natalie Hardwick

DIGITAL GROWTH LEAD Alex Crossley HEALTH EDITOR Emma Hartfield DEPUTY HEALTH EDITOR Isabella Keeling CONTENT EDITOR Lucy Roxburgh PROJECTS & AI EDITOR Anya Gilbert E-COMMERCE & REVIEWS EDITOR

Lydia Anderson

PREMIUM CONTENT EDITOR Katie Meston DIGITAL WRITER Helen Salter DIGITAL CONTENT PRODUCER Emily Burg DIGITAL ASSISTANT Emily Marten

DESIGN

FOOD TEAM

GROUP MANAGING EDITOR Lulu Grimes HEAD OF FOOD Cassie Best SKILLS & SHOWS EDITOR Barney Desmazery FOOD DIRECTOR Anna Glover SENIOR FOOD EDITOR & PODCAST EDITOR

Dominic Martin, Sarah Nittinger

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Rachel Bayly (Good Food)

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Samuel Goldsmith

MULTIMEDIA DESIGNER

FOOD EDITOR & TEST KITCHEN MANAGER

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Jordan Edmonds-Moore THANKS TO Edmond Ash, Owen Connolly, Sarah Snelling

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SUBS

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FOOD CONTENT PRODUCER ADMIN & FOOD VIDEO MANAGER TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT

GROUP CONTENT & PRODUCTION MANAGER

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EASY WINS

FRAGRANT DUMPLING AND NOODLE BROTH Frozen gyoza and a handful of fresh and storecupboard ingredients make up this easy, restorative dinner Recipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photograph MOWIE KAY

SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS COOK 10 MINS | EASY 700ml chicken stock 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 1 tbsp miso paste 12 frozen dumplings (we used Itsu chicken gyoza) 2 small carrots, shredded ½ bunch of spring onions, white parts sliced, green parts finely chopped 50g baby spinach 50g edamame beans (defrosted if frozen) 275g cooked fresh egg noodles chilli oil, sesame oil and black and white sesame seeds, to serve

1 Put the stock, ginger and miso in a pan, and bring to a simmer. Cook for 2 mins then add the dumplings, carrots and green parts of the spring onions, and gently cook for 4 mins until the dumplings are piping hot. 2 Stir in the white parts of the spring onions, the spinach and edamame, and cook for a further minute. 3 Divide the noodles between bowls. Spoon over the hot broth, dumplings and vegetables. Serve topped with a drizzle each of chilli oil and sesame oil, and a sprinkle of sesame seeds. PER SERVING 530 kcals | fat 9G saturates 1G | carbs 78G | sugars 10G fibre 9G | protein 30G | salt 4.1G SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: JESSICA MCINTOSH

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