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Bring the world to your table Bring the world to your table

food • travel • wellbeing

Great explorations DISCOVER THE HOT FOODIE DESTINATIONS OF 2026

Roast chicken with a South American twist

WINTER EDIT 2026

SWEET THING

food • travel • wellbeing

ELEGANT ENTERTAINING DISHES WITH A TOUCH OF SPICE

GOOD NIGHTS

HOW MUCH SLEEP DO YOU ACTUALLY NEED?

COOL CAKES AND BAKES WITH MATCHA, PISTACHIO, MISO AND MORE £8.99

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Editor’s letter

W

elcome and happy new year from all the team at olive. I’m not a big keeper of resolutions but I do love making predictions for the year ahead and 2026 is looking pretty exciting. Our own trends expert Gurd has been investigating where the discerning food lover will be travelling this year (p85), with some surprising entries. And, as well as sharing a delicious tiger milk ceviche in his column (p28), he’s also highlighting a few hot flavour trends to try this year. We’ve been using global flavours as a jump-off point for many of the recipes in this issue – from using vibrant green matcha in bakes to a gorgeous spice-led entertaining feature from Nisha Parmar and an introduction to some classic Burmese dishes from The Rangoon Sisters. Our travel pages are also highlighting some cool, lesserknow foodie destinations, from the stunning landscapes of Peru (p76) to the beautiful Alpine region of Slovenia and the quiet beauty of Vienna. And if you want to set one wellbeing resolution this year, then looking at your sleep patterns could be a game changer – sleep is being hailed as a natural cure-all and on p134 a sleep expert advises what to do when your nighttime routine isn’t as good as you’d like, and recommends some easy fixes.

HOW TO CONTACT US General enquiries oliveweb@immediate.co.uk

Janine Ratcliffe, deputy magazines editor @olivemagazine @missj9

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COOK THE COVER EDITORIAL TEAM OF THE YEAR olive magazine and Good Food

Try this warming spiced Peruvian-style roast chicken with a punchy herby green sauce – find the recipe on page 21. COVER PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN. PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS TERRY

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7

food 7

What to cook now

18

Tales of the unexpected

28

Gurd Loyal’s hot takes

31

Help yourself Nisha Parmar’s vibrant sharing dishes.

39

Shelf love Give storecupboard

47

50

57

Restorative recipes that celebrate the season’s best produce. Give familiar dishes a fresh twist with these inventive recipes.

Our trends expert shares a viral recipe for a zesty ceviche bowl.

ingredients some TLC and make the most of vivid green matcha.

Edd Kimber’s modern baking Jam doughnuts get a grown-up makeover with a spiced filling.

Signature dishes Flavour-

64

66

73

Barhopper Date-night bars in

76

Slow travel Journey through Peru’s highlands and lakes by train.

Use añejo tequila to make these next-level cocktails.

85

Travel trends The hottest foodie

Aperitif hour We pick out the best bottles and barware.

92

Off-grid luxury Switch off at one of

98

Why I love the Julian Alps Dive into the cuisine of this mountainous region.

Wine 101 Explore under-the-

radar Bulgarian wine, plus a sommelier’s top tips.

One bottle: three serves

packed Burmese dishes from Emily and Amy Chung.

71

Table for two Treat someone to

143 Recipe index

one of these elevated suppers.

145 Verna eats Finland Our new

columnist shares a salmon soup inspired by her travels.

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73

travel

Hackney, Bath and Montreal.

destinations of 2026.

these destination hotels rooted in nature.

106 Cook like a local Explore the quiet

grandeur and beautiful bakes of Vienna.


Contents WINTER EDIT

128 wellbeing

128 Easy seasonal nourishment

Vibrant, nutrient-rich recipes that go big on flavour.

112 Spotlight on Kent Taste your way through this south coast county.

120 Culinary cities Sample the cuisine of these UNESCO Cities of Gastronomy.

125 My London Clerkenwell Boy’s Clerkenwell highlights.

134 Is sleep overrated? We speak to

three short sleepers to learn how they get by, and ask for a sleep expert’s view.

136 Food as medicine for menopause How changes to your everyday diet can reduce menopausal symptoms, by a nutritionist.

&

don’t miss 16

84

Subscription offer Treat yourself or a loved one to a six-month olive subscription for just £20. Reader offer Taste your way around Bologna and Modena.

124 Reader offer Stay in one of

Rick Stein’s luxury shepherd’s huts near Padstow in Cornwall.

144 Coming next issue

Find out what’s in store in your next issue of olive.

126 Weekender Where to eat and drink in the Andalucian city of Málaga.

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THE BUFFS ARE BACK IN TOWN Try our delicious addition to the Clarence Court family.

With a rich, creamy flavour and plump, sunshine yellow yolk, the Burford Buff has been specially selected to make your everyday extraordinary.


Make the most of the season’s best produce with these restorative recipes Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

WHAT TO COOK NOW

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Thai stir-fry venison with fried egg This is based on the classic Thai dish pad kra pow – the original can be quite fiery so adjust the chillies according to your taste. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 3-6 red bird’s-eye chillies, roughly chopped sunflower or rapeseed oil, for frying 400g venison mince 1 tbsp fish sauce 2 tbsp oyster sauce 2 tbsp light soy sauce 1½ tsp caster sugar handful of green beans, cut into small pieces small bunch of holy basil or thai basil leaves 4 eggs TO SERVE cooked jasmine rice sliced cucumber tossed with rice vinegar and sprinkled with black sesame seeds Pound the garlic and chillies with a pestle and mortar to make a paste (alternatively you can chop the chillies as fine as possible and crush the garlic). Heat a wok or large frying pan over a medium-high heat and add 2 tbsp of oil. Stir-fry the garlic paste for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add in the venison and cook until opaque and taking on some colour. Add the beans and cook for 2 mins, then pour in the fish sauce, oyster sauce, soy, sugar and a splash of water, and toss. Toss through the basil, then turn off the heat.

PER SERVING 318 kcals • fat 18G • saturates 4G carbs 6G • sugars 4G • fibre 2G • protein 32G • salt 3G

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SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY

Fry the eggs in oil in a separate pan. Serve with cooked rice, topped with a crispy fried egg and cucumber on the side.


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Purple sprouting broccoli, chorizo and barley one-pot This rich barley stew makes a lovely spicy base for whatever seasonal greens you want to add. Purple sprouting broccoli, kale and chard all work well. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 45 MINS | EASY olive oil 225g chorizo ring, membrane removed, cut into small chunks 2 leeks, washed and finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp hot smoked paprika 1 tbsp tomato purée 1.5 litres chicken stock 200g pearl barley 200g purple sprouting broccoli, cut into bite-sized pieces parmesan, grated, to serve Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a large pan. Cook the chorizo for 4-5 mins until it starts to release its fat. Add the leeks and cook for 5-6 mins until softened. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 min, then add the paprika and tomato purée, and cook, stirring, for 1 min. Stir in the stock and bring to a simmer. Add the barley and cook for 25-30 mins until just tender, then add the broccoli and cook for 5-7 mins until tender. Ladle into bowls and serve topped with parmesan. PER SERVING 521 kcals • fat 23G • saturates 8G carbs 45G • sugars 4G • fibre 6G • protein 29G • salt 4.1G

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Halibut in a ginger and herb broth A restorative recipe for the colder months – add cooked rice to the bowls for a heartier meal. SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 20 MINS PLUS INFUSING | EASY 600ml light chicken stock large chunk of ginger 2 garlic cloves, bashed 1 chilli, halved, plus extra sliced to serve 1 lemongrass stalk, roughly chopped small bunch of coriander, stalks and leaves separated baby pak choi, halved 2 skinless halibut fillets sesame oil cooked rice, to serve (optional) Put the stock, ginger, garlic, chilli, lemongrass and coriander stalks in a pan, bring to a simmer, and cook for 10 mins. Turn off the heat and leave to infuse for 10 mins. Strain the broth and discard the bits. Bring the broth to a simmer, then add the pak choi and cook for 3 mins or until just tender. Lightly brush the halibut with some sesame oil and season. Grill for 4-5 mins or until just cooked. Divide the rice between bowls, if using. Spoon over the pak choi and top with the fish. Ladle over the broth then finish with some chilli slices and the coriander leaves. PER SERVING 209 kcals • fat 5G • saturates 1G carbs 5G • sugars 3G • fibre 4G • protein 35G • salt 2G

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Rhubarb and pistachio galette SERVES 8-10 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 50 MINS | EASY 300g rhubarb, cut into short lengths 130g caster sugar 300-500g block of shortcrust pastry 100g pistachio kernels 65g ground almonds 125g unsalted butter, softened 3 eggs (2 for the frangipane, 1 to glaze) 1 tsp almond extract 6 tbsp plain flour, plus extra for dusting slivered pistachios, to decorate crème fraîche or ice cream, to serve Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Lay the rhubarb pieces in a snug baking dish in one layer, scatter over 30g of the sugar and cover tightly with foil. Bake for 10 mins or until the rhubarb is just tender but not mushy when poked with a knife – err on the side of firm. Leave to cool. Grind the pistachios in a small food processor with the remaining sugar and whizz until finely ground. Tip into a large bowl with the ground almonds and butter, and beat with electric beaters until uniform. Beat in two of the eggs, then the almond extract and a pinch of salt. Stir in the flour. Roll out the pastry to a 34cm circle. Put on a double sheet of baking paper. Add dollops of the frangipane then spread out evenly, leaving a 3-4cm border. Arrange the rhubarb over the top of the frangipane. Fold up the border of the pastry over the edges of the filling to roughly seal it in. Chill for 2 hrs. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and put a baking sheet on a high shelf. Beat the remaining egg and use it to brush the galette, then lift it on its paper onto the heated baking sheet and bake for 35-40 mins or until the pastry and frangipane are golden and crisp. Serve hot, warm or cold, with the slivered pistachios and crème fraîche or ice cream. PER SERVING (10) 456 kcals • fat 30G • saturates 11G carbs 35G • sugars 14G • fibre 3G • protein 9G • salt 0.3G

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Bold design and beautiful photography on luxury paper Show-off dishes and effortless entertaining Fresh new voices, including rising food star Verna Gao, as well as star columnists Edd Kimber and Gurd Loyal More recipes, cocktails and wine guides to elevate every occasion Travel deeper with breathtaking features on extraordinary destinations Your insider’s guide to the hottest UK food and drink spots Modern wellbeing – expert advice and first-hand insights into today’s health trends


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Give familiar dishes a fresh twist with these inventive recipes Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs ANT DUNCAN

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AVOCADO SALAD 2 avocados sliced 2 little gem lettuces, leaves separated 8 radishes, sliced ½ cucumber, sliced handful of coriander leaves 4 spring onions, chopped 2 limes, juiced 2 tbsp olive oil Put the marinade ingredients in a blender and whizz until smooth. Put the chicken thighs in a large food bag and add the marinade. Leave for at least 4 hrs or overnight if possible.

Peruvian-style roast chicken with herby green sauce Roast chicken is a universal joy. Our Slow Travel feature in this issue visits Peru (page 76) and inspired us to recreate this dish.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS MARINATING | COOK 1 HR | EASY 8-12 whole chicken thighs MARINADE 2cm piece of ginger, finely grated 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 2 limes, juiced 75ml dark beer (such as stout or porter) 2 tsp paprika 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder GREEN SAUCE small bunch of coriander 4 spring onions, roughly chopped 2 jalapeños, chopped 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped 1 lime, juiced 100g mayonnaise HERBY CHIPS 4 large baking potatoes cold-pressed rapeseed oil sea salt flakes dried oregano CORN SALAD 2 x 340g tins of sweetcorn 2 shallots, finely chopped 1 green pepper, diced 12 green olives, chopped 2 tbsp mayonnaise 2 limes, juiced handful of coriander leaves handful of mint leaves 100g feta, crumbled

To make the chips, cut the potatoes into chunky chips (leave the skins on), then soak in cold water for 30 mins. Drain and pat completely dry with kitchen paper. When you are ready to cook, heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put a wire rack over a large baking tray lined with foil. Take the chicken out of the marinade and sit on the rack. Pour the marinade into a small pan, then boil for 5 mins to reduce. Put 3 tbsp of rapeseed oil in a tray the chips will fit into in one layer and heat for 5 mins. Add the potatoes, some sea salt flakes and dried oregano, then toss through. Put the chips on the top oven shelf and the chicken below. Cook for 45 mins until the chips are golden and the chicken is crispy and cooked through – brush some extra marinade on the chicken as it cooks and turn the chips a couple of times. The chips might need a little longer so take the chicken out to rest when it’s done. To make the green sauce, put everything in a blender and blitz until smooth. To make the corn salad, put the sweetcorn, shallots, pepper and olives in a bowl, and toss. Combine the mayo and lime juice, and season well. Add to the bowl and toss everything together. Chop most of the herbs and toss through the salad, then serve with the remaining leaves and feta scattered on top. Toss together all of the avocado salad ingredients, then serve the chicken with chips, salad and the sauce for drizzling over. PER SERVING 992 kcals • fat 67G • saturates 11G carbs 43G • sugars 9G • fibre 11G • protein 48G • salt 1.8G

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Halloumi schnitzel with harissa honey drizzle and crispy apple slaw You can schnitz anything – chicken or pork are classics and veggies like celeriac also work really well. This halloumi version is a textural delight with the bouncy cheese in a crisp golden shell served with a spicy honey and a cool crunchy slaw. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 1-2 tbsp plain flour, seasoned 1 large egg, beaten 150g panko breadcrumbs 2 blocks of halloumi, each cut into 4 slices along the wider side oil, for frying 1 tbsp rose harissa 2 tbsp honey 1 tbsp cider vinegar rocket, to serve lemon wedges, to serve APPLE SLAW ½ small white cabbage, shredded ½ red onion, halved and finely sliced 2 crisp eating apples, peeled and shredded or cut into matchsticks 2 jalapeños, finely chopped 1 lime, juiced 1-2 tbsp mayonnaise To make the slaw, toss the cabbage, onion, apples, jalapeños, lime juice and a good pinch of sea salt in a bowl. Leave for 5 mins, then add the mayo and toss again. To make the halloumi, put the flour, egg and breadcrumbs in separate bowls. Dip each piece of halloumi in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs until coated. Heat a shallow pool of oil in a non-stick pan, then fry the breaded halloumi pieces on each side until golden. Whisk together the harissa, honey and vinegar. Serve the halloumi with the slaw and a drizzle of the harissa honey, plus rocket and lemon wedges to squeeze over. PER SERVING 674 kcals • fat 35G • saturates 20G carbs 51G • sugars 21G • fibre 5G • protein 35G • salt 4.2G

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French onion beef stew with a cheesy croûte top Think of this as a mash-up between a French onion soup and a rich beef stew – the crispy gruyère-loaded croûtes take it to the next level. Serve in individual mini casseroles with some mash and greens on the side, if you like. SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 4 HRS | EASY olive oil, for frying 1kg beef shin, trimmed and cut into small chunks 1kg large brown onions 50g salted butter 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tbsp plain flour 250ml dry white wine few thyme sprigs 500ml beef stock CHEESY CROÛTE 8-12 slices sourdough baguette 1 garlic clove, halved dijon mustard 100g gruyère, grated

Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a large, non-stick frying pan and brown the beef in batches over a high heat, adding more oil if needed. Season the meat as you go. Scoop out each batch into a casserole once done. Halve and peel the onions, then remove the first layer (freeze to keep for stock, if you like) – this first layer can sometimes be quite tough and will stop your onions becoming meltingly soft. Melt the butter in the same frying pan, then cook the onions with 1 tsp of sea salt over a low-medium heat for 45 mins, stirring now and again, until very soft and golden brown – you can cover the pan to help the process along. The onions should be reduced quite a lot and you should be able to break them by squeezing between your fingers. Once done, season with 1 tsp of ground black pepper. Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Scoop out a third of the onions and keep aside. Stir the garlic into remaining onions and cook for 3-4 mins, then add the flour and stir until it has been absorbed. Turn up the heat, still stirring, and gradually add the wine, followed by the thyme and stock. Keep stirring until the liquid just comes to the boil, then carefully tip into the casserole with the beef. Put on a lid and bake for 2 hrs 30 mins or until the beef and onions are meltingly tender, and the sauce has thickened – stir in the reserved onions for the final 30 mins of cooking. To serve, ladle the stew into 4-6 small individual casseroles or large bowls. Toast the baguette slices on both sides and rub one side with a cut clove of garlic. Spread with mustard and pile up with the gruyère, then put on top of the casseroles, if using – slide under a hot grill until the cheese is bubbling. Alternatively you can grill a big tray of the croûtes then serve on top of the stew once plated. PER SERVING 671 kcals • fat 25G • saturates 12G carbs 54G • sugars 13G • fibre 6G • protein 47G • salt 3.1G

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Dark chocolate, olive oil and sea salt focaccia Sweet focaccia might seem strange but it’s having a moment. In this recipe, peppery olive oil and dark chocolate pair really well – throw some sea salt in the mix for a sweet/salty edge and you have baking heaven. SERVES 8 | PREP 35 MINS PLUS PROVING AND COOLING COOK 35 MINS | EASY 750g strong bread flour 4 tsp fast-action dried yeast 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 2 tbsp caster sugar 100g dark chocolate, chopped 1-2 tbsp demerara sugar sea salt flakes Mix together the flour, yeast and 2 tsp of fine sea salt in a bowl. Mix 3 tbsp of the oil and the caster sugar into 600ml of warm water. Pour the liquid into the flour and mix until it comes together into a soft, sticky dough. Knead the dough in the bowl by lifting up the edges and folding it back over itself, turning the bowl as you do this. After 5 mins the dough will become slightly less sticky and more uniform but still quite soft. Cover the bowl and leave for 2 hrs in a warm place to rise. Gently punch down the dough then repeat the kneading process for 2 mins. While you are lifting and folding, add half the chocolate. Cover and leave again for another 45 mins. Oil a 33cm x 24cm baking tin with 1 tbsp of oil, then tip in the dough. Fold in the two sides, then flip so the seams are on the bottom. Cover and leave to prove for 1 hr. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Drizzle over another 1 tbsp of oil, then dimple the focaccia all over using your fingers and pushing out to the sides if needed. Scatter over the rest of the chocolate, pushing it down a little in places. Scatter over the demerara sugar. Bake for 5 mins, then turn down the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Cook for 30 mins until risen and golden. Drizzle with a little more oil, cover loosely with foil and cool for 20 mins before scattering over sea salt flakes to finish. PER SERVING 516 kcals • fat 13G • saturates 4G carbs 83G • sugars 11G • fibre 4G • protein 14G • salt 1.2G

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PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

Gurd

HOT

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Loyal’s

T TAKES


In this series our trends expert Gurd Loyal shares a recipe that is having a moment online and in the restaurant world – this issue a zesty Peruvian marinade for seafood, served with black rice for drama

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eche de tigre (‘tiger’s milk’ ) is a citrus-based marinade from Peru most often used to cure seafood and pickle vegetables for ceviche dishes. Lime juice and ginger are its key components, bringing zesty juice and zingy fire to the milky white elixir. Other additions often include soy or ponzu, garlic, spices and chilli, coconut and sometimes other sharp fruits like passion fruit, pineapple or tamarillo (tree tomato). Thanks to its high acidity the marinade effectively cooks the proteins in the fish leaving it tender and very flavourful. It’s also great as a salad dressing – some places even serve up shots of invigorating tiger’s milk as a hangover cure. At the stylish Tigermilk restaurant in London – specialising in seasonal South American cooking – pollock ceviche is served in creamy coconut leche de tigre with mango, pomegranate, red onions and coriander. At Crudo Cevicheria in Covent Garden the menu features leche de tigre seabass with sweet potato, choclo and cancha corn. Over in New York, Peruvian fine dining restaurant Nuyores (from chef Oscar Lorenzzi) offers tuna ají amarillo leche de tigre with crispy seaweed sweet onion. And, in Paris, Selva (from chef Felipe Camargo) has a veggie take with candied celeriac, spinach tiger leche, cashews, parsley oil, crunchy quinoa, plantain chips and achiote. Black rice – as loved by restaurants like Dimes Deli in New York – is a delicious and unexpected base for tiger’s milk ceviche. It has a rich, nutty, slightly sweet flavour and almost chewy texture, with the antioxidant anthocyanin creating its black colour. Black rice is also higher in protein than other rice, and rich in fibre.

Tiger milk ceviche black rice bowl with coconut SERVES 2-3 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS MARINATING | COOK 40 MINS | EASY 225g black rice 1 lime, zested to make 1 tsp, juiced to make 5 tbsp 2 tsp finely grated ginger 5 tbsp coconut milk 2 tbsp ponzu or light soy sauce 2 tsp white miso 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 4 tsp caster sugar 1 tsp celery salt 300g cod or other white fish 1 /2 red onion, finely sliced 4 tbsp edamame, cooked TO GARNISH coconut chips jalapeños Thoroughly wash the rice in a sieve until the water runs clear. Put in a pan with enough hot water to cover, plus 2cm. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 40-45 mins (topping up with water if it’s drying out) until al dente, then drain. Meanwhile, whizz together the lime zest and juice, ginger, coconut milk, ponzu, miso, oil, sugar and celery salt in a small blender until it forms a smooth white liquor. Taste for seasoning – it should be zingy but balanced, so add more lime, sugar or celery salt if needed. Cut the cod into 1cm cubes, then scatter into a shallow dish. Pour over the tiger’s milk so it completely submerges the fish. Cover and set aside to marinate for 1 hr. Divide the rice between bowls and top with the onion, edamame, coconut chips, cured cod, jalapeños and a drizzle of the tiger’s milk. PER SERVING (3) 469 kcals • fat 9G • saturates 5G carbs 67G • sugars 11G • fibre 5G • protein 27G • salt 2.4G

Three more trending flavours to look out for in 2026... POMELO is a large, thick-rinded citrus fruit with flesh that’s similar to grapefruit. Pomelo is widely used in Southeast Asian cuisines, particularly Vietnamese and Thai – such as for yam som o, a classic Thai pomelo salad. Michelin-recommended pan-Asian London restaurant Nanyang Blossom has a pomelo salad with mint, coriander, peanuts and kerabu dressing on its menu, while at Speedboat Bar one of the top desserts is mango pudding with red pomelo.

KOKUM is a sour fruit that tastes like a fruity tropical tamarind but is in fact closer to a dried mangosteen. It’s used as a souring agent in South Indian and Sri Lankan cuisines. Kokum in East Dulwich celebrates the ingredient with dishes like kokum fish fry and Malabar prawn nadan curry with kokum, while Dishoom’s Goan monkfish curry is simmered in coconut and kokum.

HOJICHA is roasted Japanese green tea. It has a toasted, nutty flavour that’s perfect for baking. Food writer Emiko Davies’ latest cookbook The Japanese Pantry features a recipe for hojicha cream sponge roll which infuses the flavour into sweet whipped cream along with kuromame sweet black soy beans. Kova Patisserie has a hojicha chestnut shortcake on its menu, while at Happy Sky Bakery there are hojicha lattes and hojicha pastries and cookies. 29


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SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

Help yourself

Nisha Parmar’s elegant menu mixes comfort with a hint of spice in these vibrant sharing dishes Recipes NISHA PARMAR Photographs ANT DUNCAN 31


Menu Curry leaf tomatoes on yogurt with bombay mix Hariyali (green masala) prawn and saffron pulao Chocolate, miso and sesame self-saucing pudding

Curry leaf tomatoes on yogurt with bombay mix When I’m hosting I want dishes that can be made ahead of time, so I’m doing the bare minimum and enjoying time with my guests. This can be served as a starter with drinks or together with the main. It’s the best way to make hosting calm and enjoyable for the host and your guests. SERVES 6 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY 3 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds 12 fresh curry leaves 1 tbsp minced ginger 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 small green chilli, finely chopped 500g vine baby plum tomatoes, three-quarters halved ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp kashmiri red chilli powder 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin handful of bombay mix 5 tbsp greek yogurt puffy pittas or flatbreads, to serve

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Heat the oil in a large frying pan, then cook the mustard and cumin seeds for 1-2 mins until they sizzle. Add the curry leaves and stir for a few seconds, then add the ginger, garlic and green chilli, and fry for a couple of minutes. Add the halved tomatoes and a couple of the tomato vines to intensify the flavour, if you have them, and stir to incorporate with the aromatics. Add the ground spices, ½ tsp sea salt and 50ml of water. Cook for 5 mins until the tomatoes start to break up, then add the whole tomatoes. Stir in a few handfuls of bombay mix, cook for a few minutes until the gram flour noodles from the mix start to soften and thicken the sauce. Remove the tomato vines, if using. Serve over a few spoonfuls of yogurt, topped with more bombay mix for crunch, and a pitta or flatbread on the side. The tomatoes can be served warm or cold. PER SERVING 169 kcals • fat 13G • saturates 4G carbs 8G • sugars 4G • fibre 2G • protein 5G • salt 0.7G


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Hariyali (green masala) prawn and saffron pulao A one-pot rice dish made elegant and dinner party worthy with the addition of emerald herbs, majestic saffron and plump pink prawns. It shares the same characteristics as a biryani but simplified for easy entertaining in one pot, which saves on washing-up. SERVES 6 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS SOAKING | COOK 16 MINS | EASY 250g basmati rice 500g raw deveined king prawns GREEN MASALA PASTE 75g coriander, plus extra to serve 15g mint leaves 8 garlic cloves, peeled thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 3 green finger chillies ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp garam masala 1 small onion, quartered 1 lemon, juiced TEMPERING 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp ghee or butter 6 cloves 10 black peppercorns 5 green cardamon pods 2 bay leaves 1 cinnamon stick a few saffron strands TO SERVE pickled pink onions lemon wedges cucumber raita tomato, cucumber and red onion salad

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Put the rice in a bowl and cover with water for 30 mins. Meanwhile, blitz all the green masala paste ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Drain the rice, then wash 3-4 times until the water runs clear. For the tempering, heat the oil and ghee in a large lidded pan, then add the cloves, peppercorns, cardamom pods, bay leaves and cinnamon stick for 30 seconds to infuse the oil with flavour. Add the drained rice and stir to coat in the oil mixture. Stir in the saffron, then add the masala paste, stir well, then pour over 525ml of just-boiled water and add 1½ tsp salt. Bring to a simmer, then stir in the prawns. Tightly shut the lid and let the rice cook over a low heat for 13-15 mins. Once the water has been absorbed, turn off the heat and fluff the rice with a fork – this can be made a few hours in advance and reheated gently over a low heat. Serve in the pot or tip out onto a platter finished with pink pickled onions and coriander. Serve the lemon wedges, raita and salad on the side. PER SERVING 267 kcals • fat 11G • saturates 4G carbs 27G • sugars 1G • fibre 3G • protein 14G • salt 1.8G


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Chocolate, miso and sesame self-saucing pudding A warm pudding perfect for chilly nights in. Made with storecupboard ingredients, it’s ideal for when you want to emulate a molten fondant without the faff. Serve with vanilla ice cream or crème fraîche for that hot and cold contrast. The sprinkle of sesame seeds complements the savoury miso notes. SERVES 6 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS COOLING | COOK 45 MINS | EASY oil, for the dish 125g plain flour 2 tsp baking powder 100g caster sugar 30g cocoa powder 125ml milk 50g butter, melted 1 egg 1 tsp vanilla extract 1½ tsp white miso paste ice cream or crème fraîche, to serve TOPPING 180g soft dark brown sugar 30g cocoa powder 25g mixed sesame seeds (optional)

Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and oil a 23cm round dish or 20cm x 30cm rectangular dish. In a medium mixing bowl combine the flour, baking powder, caster sugar and cocoa. Whisk together the milk, butter, egg, vanilla and 1/2 tsp miso in a small bowl until combined. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and gently fold together until combined – try not to overmix. Pour the batter into the baking dish and smooth over the top. Mix together the brown sugar, cocoa and sesame seeds in a bowl, then sprinkle over the batter. Stir 1 tsp of miso paste into a jug of 300ml just-boiled water until melted. Pour the mixture across the back of a spoon over the chocolate pudding – the spoon will stop the water disturbing the sugar topping. Carefully put the tray into the oven and bake for 35-40 mins or until bubbling at the edges and the sponge springs back when pressed. Leave to cool for 5-10 mins before serving spooned into bowls with plenty of sauce and ice cream or crème fraîche on top, if you like. PER SERVING 390 kcals • fat 11G • saturates 6G carbs 65G • sugars 47G • fibre 3G • protein 6G • salt 0.8G

Nisha Parmar is a chef and author of Share: Asian-Inspired Dinner Party Dishes, centred on her speciality of cooking for crowds. She was a semi-finalist in BBC’s MasterChef series in 2018 when she left her career in banking to pursue her love of food. @nishascookingagain

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PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID LOFTUS

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Parmigiano Reggiano PDO breaded aubergines

Pure flavour

Discover what makes Parmigiano Reggiano PDO one of Europe’s most popular cheeses

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hile Parmigiano Reggiano PDO is undoubtedly great for cooking, did you know it tastes just as delicious on its own? This is largely due to its quality and production techniques, as it’s been made in the same way for almost 1,000 years, making it one of the oldest cheeses in the world. It’s also a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product, meaning it must be produced in specific provinces, using traditional methods, to be considered true Parmigiano Reggiano. So, if you spot the PDO logo on the packaging, you can be sure of its authenticity.

Perfect for pairing

The best flavour pairings for Parmigiano Reggiano PDO depend on its maturation time. Wheels aged between 12 and 19 months have a delicate taste that’s perfect with a sparkling aperitif or simple salad. Meanwhile, an ageing period of 45 months or longer brings out more intense, nutty notes that work wonderfully on a cheeseboard with sweet fruits and honey. Alternatively, if you want to sample the balanced richness of 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, why not try making these crispy veggie canapés from brand ambassador Gennaro Contaldo?

MAKES 8 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS MARINATING COOK 25 MINS | EASY plain flour 4 eggs, beaten 100g panko breadcrumbs 80g 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, finely grated, plus extra shavings to serve 2 medium aubergines, thickly sliced lengthways olive oil MARINATED TOMATOES 400g cherry tomatoes, finely chopped 1 small garlic clove, finely chopped pinch of dried oregano handful of basil leaves, finely chopped 10 kalamata olives, pitted and roughly chopped 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Tip some flour onto a plate, add the eggs to a large bowl with some salt and pepper, and combine the breadcrumbs and Parmigiano Reggiano PDO on another plate. Dip each aubergine slice in the flour, shaking off any excess, then the egg and finally the breadcrumbs. Place the coated slices on a large, lined baking tray and drizzle with oil. Bake for 15 mins, then flip and continue baking for another 10 mins until golden. Meanwhile, drain the tomatoes in a colander, then add to a bowl with the garlic, oregano, basil, olives and oil. Season to taste and leave to marinate for at least 5 mins. To serve, arrange the aubergine slices on a plate and top each one with some tomatoes and Parmigiano Reggiano PDO shavings.

For more information and Parmigiano Reggiano PDO recipe inspiration, visit tasteurope.eu

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FUNDED BY THE EUROPEAN UNION. VIEWS AND OPINIONS EXPRESSED ARE HOWEVER THOSE OF THE AUTHOR(S) ONLY AND DO NOT NECESSARILY REFLECT THOSE OF THE EUROPEAN UNION OR OF THE GRANTING AUTHORITY. NEITHER THE EUROPEAN UNION NOR THE GRANTING AUTHORITY CAN BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THEM.


SHELF LOVE Use storecupboard ingredients to create these clever recipes – this month, vivid green matcha

Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

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Matcha, white chocolate and marcona almond cookies Matcha, white chocolate and macadamia nuts are a classic combination in cookies but we’ve switched things up by using marcona almonds for their buttery flavour and creamy texture. These cookies need to chill for a couple of hours, so do take that into account before you start.

Put the butter and both sugars in a large bowl, and beat with an electric whisk for 4-5 mins until whipped, fluffy and aerated. Beat in the egg, egg yolk and vanilla to combine.

MAKES 12 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 15 MINS | EASY

Line two large baking sheets with baking paper. Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Scoop the dough into 12 balls, keeping them a bit craggy, as they look better this way once baked. Arrange over the baking sheets, keeping them well spaced apart, and bake for 15-16 mins. Once baked, you can use a round cutter to gently re-shape them on the tray if they’re not perfectly round. Cool completely on the tray. PER SERVING 390 kcals • fat 23G • saturates 12G carbs 38G • sugars 23G • fibre 2G • protein 6G • salt 0.4G

Tips Matcha is a Japanese green tea powder. It has deep cultural significance in Japan and is traditionally celebrated in tea ceremonies. It’s also now widely enjoyed in many forms around the world – these recipes highlight its earthy, grassy flavour and vivid colour.

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SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY

220g salted butter, softened 120g caster sugar 100g soft light brown sugar 1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 1 tbsp matcha powder (see tip, below) 220g plain flour ½ tsp baking powder 100g toasted marcona almonds, roughly chopped 100g white chocolate, roughly chopped

Sift over the matcha, flour, baking powder and a pinch of salt, then use a spatula to bring the dough together. Fold in the almonds and chocolate, then chill for 2-3 hrs or overnight.


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Matchagato This is a speedy dessert to finish off a dinner party. Serve with shortbreads for scooping. SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY 10g matcha powder 2 large scoops of vanilla ice cream shortbreads, to serve (optional) Whisk the matcha powder with 75ml of hot water for 2-3 mins until foamy and bright green. If you have a bamboo matcha whisk and bowl, you can use these – if not, a milk frother works well, too. Scoop the ice cream into two small dessert glasses or coffee cups. Pour half the matcha over each, then serve with shortbreads for scooping, if you like. PER SERVING 115 kcals • fat 5G • saturates 3G carbs 15G • sugars 13G • fibre 0.1G • protein 3G • salt 0.1G

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Matcha and ube swirl cheesecake Ube is a purple yam that features heavily in Filipino desserts and sweets, such as halo-halo – a mixture of sweetened fruits, beans, ice cream, jelly and ube halaya, which is a creamy ube spread. It has a subtle vanilla-like flavour and pairs well with the earthiness of the matcha. This cheesecake is inspired by Konveni Matcha Café in London, which makes a fantastic ube and matcha soft serve ice cream. SERVES 8-10 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS CHILLING | EASY 90g salted butter, melted, plus extra for the tin 175g digestive biscuits 500g soft cheese 175g caster sugar 300ml double cream 1 tbsp matcha powder 1 /2 tbsp ube extract (we used McCormick Ube Extract) Butter the base of a 20cm springform tin and line with baking paper. Blitz the digestives to a fine crumb using a food processor. Tip into a medium bowl, then stir in the melted butter until the mixture has the consistency of wet sand. Press into the tin using a spoon, making sure it is well packed down into an even layer, then chill while you make the filling.

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Put the cheese, sugar and cream in a large bowl, and whisk using an electric whisk for 3-4 mins until aerated and smooth. Divide the mixture evenly between two medium bowls. Sift the matcha over one of the bowls and whisk using an electric whisk until evenly green and smooth. Pour the ube extract into the second bowl and mix using a spatula until evenly purple and smooth. Alternately dollop the matcha and ube fillings into the tin, trying not to mix them too much. Once all the filling has been added, give the tin a firm tap on a worksurface to help level it out, then gently smooth the surface using the back of a spoon or palette knife, creating little swirls on top. Do this gently – you want a marbled effect but don’t want to combine the colours too much or it can become muddy looking. Chill for at least 3 hrs or overnight. When you’re ready to serve, slice into thick wedges. PER SERVING (10) 498 kcals • fat 39G • saturates 24G carbs 31G • sugars 23G • fibre 1G • protein 4G • salt 0.8G


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Edd Kimber’s

MODERN BAKING Give jam doughnuts a grown-up makeover with a richer, spiced filling Words and recipes EDD KIMBER Photographs ANT DUNCAN

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

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ho doesn’t love a jam doughnut? It is joyous in its simplicity and delicious in all of its nostalgia. Maybe you’d argue there is no point messing around with something so simple and pure. But why not? Sometimes taking a classic like that and having a play around can create something new and exciting, and delicious in a completely different way. In this recipe I wanted to take something that we all know and love, and give it a modern spin, adding an interesting flavour combo that makes these simple brioche doughnuts into something new. That flavour combo? Coffee, cardamom and milk chocolate. This trio of flavours works in absolute harmony together and all bounce off of one another to make a deliciously flavoured treat. I first had cardamom and coffee together when visiting an Arabic coffee roaster where the coffee was roasted alongside cardamom and ground together to make an incredibly punchy mug of coffee. Milk chocolate and coffee are long-time partners but with the addition of cardamom it’s absolute heaven. As there are multiple elements to this recipe you can make life easier and make this over two days. On day one, make the coffee pastry cream, cardamom sugar and brioche dough. Once the dough is kneaded, form it into a ball and put it into a lightly oiled bowl and cover. Leave at room temperature for 20 minutes before transferring to the fridge to prove slowly overnight (it can also be left in the fridge for up to three days). When you shape the doughnuts the dough will be cold so it can take up to twice as long to prove.

Edd Kimber is a baker, food writer and the author of seven cookbooks, including his latest, Small Batch Cookies. Find him on Substack and Instagram @theboywhobakes.

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Meanwhile, whisk together the remaining sugar and cornflour in a large bowl. Add the egg yolks and whole egg, and whisk until smooth. Pour the infused milk through a fine mesh sieve into the egg mixture, whisking to combine. Press onto the back of the coffee grounds to extract as much milk as possible, then discard the grounds. Pour the mixture back into the pan over a medium heat. Cook, whisking constantly, until the custard is bubbling and has thickened considerably. Scrape into a bowl and whisk in the butter and a pinch of fine sea salt. Cover and chill for at least 2 hrs. For the brioche dough, put the flour, sugar, salt and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer, and stir to combine. With the dough hook attached, add the eggs and milk, and mix on medium speed until combined. Continue kneading for 10 mins or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Add the butter and continue kneading for up to 10 mins until the butter has fully absorbed. Remove the dough and form into a neat ball. Put it into a lightly oiled bowl, seam-side down, cover and set aside for 1 hr or until doubled in size. Punch down the dough and divide into 10 even pieces. Form each into a neat ball and put onto a square of baking paper. Lightly cover with a slightly damp tea towel and leave for 3545 mins or until risen and puffy.

Cardamom, coffee and milk chocolate doughnuts MAKES 10 | PREP 50 MINS PLUS INFUSING, CHILLING AND PROVING COOK 45 MINS | MORE EFFORT vegetable oil, for deep-frying COFFEE CUSTARD 300ml whole milk 20g coarsely ground coffee 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 100g caster sugar 25g cornflour 2 egg yolks 1 egg 30g unsalted butter BRIOCHE DOUGH 335g strong white bread flour 30g caster sugar 1 tsp fine sea salt 7g fast-action dried yeast 2 eggs 135ml whole milk 100g unsalted butter, diced and at room temperature MILK CHOCOLATE FILLING 150g milk chocolate, finely chopped 125ml double cream CARDAMOM SUGAR 150g granulated sugar 11/2 tsp ground cardamom To make the custard, put the milk, coffee, vanilla and half the sugar in a large pan over a medium heat, and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and cover with a lid. Set aside to infuse for 1 hr.

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Meanwhile, make the chocolate filling. Melt the chocolate using either a bain marie or in short bursts in a microwave. Heat the cream in a small pan until just at a simmer. Remove and pour the cream over the chocolate in three additions, stirring well between each. Don’t worry if the ganache looks grainy, once all of the cream has been added it will be smooth and silky. Set aside at room temperature until thickened. Fill a large pan two-thirds full with vegetable oil and heat to 170-180C, or use a deep-fat fryer if you have one. Turn down the temperature slightly so that it doesn’t climb any higher – the key to properly cooked doughnuts is controlling the temperature. Using the paper as a sling, carefully lower the doughnuts, two at a time, into the oil. Once in the oil use tongs to remove the paper, it should slip off easily. Fry the doughnuts for 3 mins, flipping halfway through, or until they are golden brown on both sides. Check by lifting them from the fryer with a slotted spoon – if they feel heavy they’re likely to be undercooked and need longer. Transfer the doughnuts to a tray lined with kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil. In a shallow bowl, whisk together the cardamom and sugar and, while the doughnuts are still hot, toss in the sugar to coat. Beat the coffee custard until smooth. Scrape both the coffee custard and the milk chocolate filling into separate piping bags fitted with round piping tips. Pierce the doughnut with a paring knife, then pipe in each of the fillings. The doughnuts are best served straightaway but will keep for up to a day. PER SERVING 647 kcals • fat 37G • saturates 16G carbs 66G • sugars 39G • fibre 1G • protein 11G • salt 0.9G


Coffee, cardamom and milk chocolate – this trio of flavours wok in absolute harmony together

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sd

ignature ishes

Recipes EMILY and AMY CHUNG Photographs ANT DUNCAN

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SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

Our favourite creators share dishes that showcase their unique style of cooking – this month, Emily and Amy Chung, AKA The Rangoon Sisters


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Burmese meatball curry

Sour vegetable soup

This is one of our late grandma’s weeknight staples, warming and comforting, with a luscious curry sauce. Coconut isn’t commonly used in Burmese curries but she would always add her own spin to things and it adds a lovely richness. You can substitute the beef mince with pork (or a mixture) and we’ve also used turkey thigh mince before too.

Every Burmese spread will be accompanied by a light broth in a small bowl. This helps to hydrate alongside a meal, cleanse the palate between dishes or even to loosen a curry sauce. You can easily serve this alongside the meatball curry, or add some blanched rice vermicelli noodles to make it a light meal on its own.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | EASY

SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS SOAKING | COOK 20 MINS | EASY

30g ginger 6 garlic cloves 500g 15-20% fat beef mince 2 tsp sweet paprika 11/2 tsp ground turmeric 3 tbsp neutral oil 3 onions, diced ½ tsp hot chilli powder 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp fish sauce 50g creamed coconut TO SERVE jasmine rice, steamed pak choi, steamed long-stemmed broccoli, steamed pickled mustard greens (optional)

1 large carrot 250g mooli 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 medium tomato, diced ½ tsp ground turmeric 50g tamarind pulp 150g spinach, washed splash of fish sauce (optional) 1 red bird’s-eye chilli, thinly sliced (seeds removed if you want to avoid too much heat), to serve 1 lime, quartered, to serve

Crush the ginger and garlic with a pinch of salt using a pestle and mortar to form a coarse paste. Alternatively, blitz together in a food processor. Put half the paste in a bowl with the beef, 1 tsp of paprika, ½ tsp of turmeric and ½ tsp of salt. Mix well and form into 20 balls, using your palms to press them together to make sure they’re well formed and won’t fall apart in the pan.

Pour 1 litre of water into a large span. Slice the carrot and mooli into 1cm rounds and add to the pan along with the garlic, onion, tomato, turmeric and ½ tsp of salt. Put on the heat and bring to a simmer, and leave to cook uncovered for 20 mins until the vegetables are tender. Meanwhile, soak the tamarind pulp in 100ml of hot water for 5 mins – this will loosen the pulp and enable you to separate the flesh from the seeds, releasing a tamarind extract. Strain the pulp and liquid over a bowl.

Put a large frying pan or casserole over a medium heat and add 1 tbsp of oil. Once hot, tilt the pan to evenly distribute the oil and carefully add the meatballs. Turn them over after 2-3 mins to brown them all over – they don’t need to be fully cooked at this point, so just a gentle browning is fine.

Add the tamarind extract to the soup bit by bit, adding more or less to suit your taste – it should be quite sour (we would probably add all of it). Season with a twist of black pepper then add the spinach to the pan until wilted. Finish with a splash of fish sauce, if you like.

Remove the meatballs to a plate. Add the remaining 2 tbsp of oil to the pan and allow to come up to heat for a minute, then add the onions. Turn the heat to low-medium and fry slowly, stirring every few minutes, for 15 mins or until golden and soft.

Decant into bowls, top with a few slices of chilli and serve with a lime wedge for squeezing over. PER SERVING 79 kcals • fat 1G • saturates 0.1G carbs 15G • sugars 14G • fibre 2G • protein 3G • salt 0.7G

Add the remaining paste to the pan and mix well, then add the remaining 1 tsp of paprika, 1 tsp of turmeric and chilli powder with the tomato purée, fish sauce, coconut and 250ml of water. Stir well so the coconut melts into the sauce, then put the meatballs back in the pan, cover with a lid and simmer on a low heat for 10-15 mins. Serve the curry with plenty of steamed rice and veg, and some pickled mustard greens, if you like. PER SERVING 435 kcals • fat 31G • saturates 14G carbs 11G • sugars 8G • fibre 4G • protein 26G • salt 1.6G

Tips We prefer using tamarind pulp to make our own tamarind extract, as the percentage of tamarind in concentrates varies quite a lot and often has sugar and/or salt added. However, if you have difficulty finding the pulp you can of course use a concentrate – we would start off by adding 2-3 tsp to your taste.

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Shredded chicken noodle salad Burmese salads are a mainstay for us at home as they can be an easy and delicious way to use up any left-over carbs or protein once you have all the other condiments to hand such as the garlic oil and toasted gram flour. Here we have combined spiced chicken with sour, salty and spicy elements alongside crunchy chicken skin for added texture.

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Remove the skins from the chicken and set aside, then toss the thighs in the turmeric, chilli, paprika, 1/4 tsp of salt and vegetable oil, and leave to marinate while the oven heats up.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 45 MINS | EASY

Spread out the skins as thinly as possible on another baking tray and sprinkle with salt. Bake alongside the chicken for 10-15 mins or until brown and crisp. Remove to a plate lined with kitchen paper to soak up any excess oil.

4 chicken thighs ½ tsp ground turmeric ¼ tsp hot chilli powder ½ tsp paprika 1 tbsp vegetable oil 2 heaped tbsp gram flour 200g wholewheat noodles 4 tsp fish sauce 4 limes, juiced GARLIC OIL 100ml vegetable oil ½ garlic bulb, peeled and finely chopped TO GARNISH chilli flakes handful of coriander, roughly chopped 4 round shallots, peeled and finely sliced

Put the chicken on a baking tray and bake for 30-35 mins until cooked through – the juices should run clear when pierced with a knife.

Meanwhile, make the garlic oil by putting the oil and garlic in a small pan over a low-medium heat. Stir intermittently and cook for 4-5 mins until the garlic is just about becoming golden and crispy. Remove from the heat to prevent the garlic from burning. Toast the gram flour in a small frying pan over a low-medium heat until it becomes slightly darker and produces a nutty aroma – stir frequently to toast the flour evenly, then decant into a small bowl. Leave the chicken to rest for a few minutes, then shred with forks while still in the baking tray, combining with any juices. Roughly crumble up the skin with your hands and set aside. Cook the noodles following pack instructions, then put them in a large bowl with the chicken, fish sauce, lime juice, gram flour and 2 tbsp of the garlic oil, and give everything a good mix. Check for seasoning and add more fish sauce or garlic oil depending on your taste. To assemble, divide up the noodles between four plates, then garnish with the chilli flakes, coriander, shallots and crispy chicken skin. PER SERVING 542 kcals • fat 26G • saturates 5G carbs 40G • sugars 3G • fibre 6G • protein 35G • salt 2.2G

Tips

Emily and Amy Chung, otherwise known as The Rangoon Sisters, have been hosting Burmese supper clubs since 2013, alongside their careers as NHS doctors. Their debut cookbook, The Rangoon Sisters Cookbook, was published in 2020 and is full of their vibrant Burmese family recipes. Follow them on Instagram @rangoonsisters.

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PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPH: NIC CRILLY HARGRAVE

The recipe makes more garlic oil than you’ll need but any remaining can be stored in an airtight jar in the fridge for up to three months for more salads, to drizzle on pasta or anything really. You can also substitute the chicken thighs with leftover roast chicken or other protein.


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UNPROCESSED Cookbook

breakfast & brunch

BANGING BREAKFASTS BRUNCHES

&

Swap store-bought breakfast options for these delicious, UPF-free recipes. Be sure to use vanilla extract, not essence, and check the label on oats, passata, canned tomatoes and soft cheese to avoid any hidden UPFs

Avocado & black bean eggs Homemade granola SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

2 tsp cold-pressed rapeseed oil 1 red chilli, deseeded and thinly sliced 1 large garlic clove, sliced 2 eggs 400g can black beans ½ x 400g can cherry tomatoes ¼ tsp cumin seeds 1 small avocado, sliced handful of coriander, chopped 1 lime, cut into wedges

1 Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan. Add the chilli and garlic and cook until softened and starting to colour. Break in the eggs on either side of the pan. Once they start to set, spoon the beans (with their juice) and the tomatoes around the pan and sprinkle over the cumin seeds. You’re aiming to warm the beans and tomatoes rather than cook them. 2 Remove the pan from the heat and scatter over the avocado and coriander. Squeeze over half of the lime wedges. Serve with the remaining wedges on the side for squeezing over.

MAKES 15 servings PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

2 tbsp cold-pressed rapeseed oil 125ml maple syrup 2 tbsp honey 1 tsp vanilla extract 300g rolled oats 50g sunflower seeds 4 tbsp sesame seeds 50g pumpkin seeds 100g flaked almonds 100g dried berries 50g coconut flakes or desiccated coconut

1 Heat the oven to 150C/130C fan/ gas 2. Mix the oil, maple syrup, honey and vanilla extract in a large bowl. Add the remaining ingredients, except the dried berries and coconut, and mix well. 2 Spread the granola out on two baking sheets. Bake for 15 mins, then mix in the dried berries and coconut and bake for 10-15 mins more. Remove and scrape onto a flat tray to cool. Will keep in an airtight container for up to a month.

GOOD TO KNOW gluten free

PER SERVING 259 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 3g •

PER SERVING 356 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 4g • carbs 18g • sugars 5g • fibre 11g • protein 20g • salt 0.8g

carbs 28g • sugars 13g • fibre 3g • protein 6g • salt 0.02g

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Delicious ideas to get your day off to the best start family dinners

Fab family fillers Family dinners made simple – this section is filled with UPF-free recipes that kids will love and parents can feel good about serving. Be sure to check the labels on ricotta, porridge oats, passata, canned tomatoes, mascarpone, stock and chipotle paste for any additives

Quick & easy fish stew SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20-25 mins EASY

Chipotle sweet potato & black bean stew with cheddar dumplings SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 50 mins EASY V

Cold-pressed rapeseed oil, for frying 1 large red onion, finely sliced 250g bag diced butternut squash and sweet potato 400g can chopped tomatoes 2 x 400g cans chilli black beans or chilli kidney beans 3 tbsp chipotle chilli paste 125g self-raising flour 60g unsalted butter, cubed 70g mature cheddar, grated 1 large green jalapeño, finely sliced (optional)

1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp fennel seeds 2 carrots, chopped 2 celery sticks, chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 leeks, thinly sliced 400g can chopped tomatoes 500ml fresh chicken stock, heated to a simmer 2 skinless pollock fillets (about 200g), thawed if frozen, and cut into chunks 85g raw shelled king prawns

1 Heat the oil in a large pan. Add the fennel seeds, carrots, celery and garlic, and cook for 5 mins, until starting to soften. Tip in the leeks, tomatoes and stock, season and bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 15-20 mins until the vegetables are tender and the sauce has thickened and reduced slightly. 2 Add the pollock, scatter over the prawns and cook for 2 mins more, until just cooked through. Ladle into bowls to serve. PER SERVING 323 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 2g • carbs 19g • sugars 17g • fibre 11g • protein 35g • salt 0.57g

1 Heat a glug of oil in a large flameproof casserole dish over a medium heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook for 7 mins, until softened. Tip in the squash and sweet potato and fry for a few minutes, before adding the tomatoes, beans and 250ml water. Stir through the chipotle paste and season. Cover the dish with a lid and gently simmer over a medium-low heat for 25 mins, or until reduced and the sweet potato is soft. 2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Mix the flour with 1/2 tsp salt. Add the butter and rub together with your fingers until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the grated cheddar, then quickly mix in 4 tbsp cold water. Roll the mixture into eight balls. Put the dumplings on top of the stew and place in the oven, uncovered, for 15-20 mins, or until puffed up and just goldenbrown. Serve the stew with the sliced jalapeño scattered on top, if you like. PER SERVING 547 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 12g • carbs 60g • sugars 12g • fibre 15g • protein 18g • salt 1.5g

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Dinners for the family you can feel good about serving cakes & bakes

Pumpkin muffins SERVES 12 PREP 15 mins plus cooling COOK 35 mins EASY V

750g pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cubed 225g plain flour 2 tsp baking powder 1 tbsp ground cinnamon (or 2 tsp pumpkin spice) 100g caster sugar 50g light brown soft sugar 2 large eggs 125g slightly salted butter, melted

Brilliant bakes & cakes

Enjoy healthy recipes without ultra-processed ingredients – from banging breakfasts and lunches to winning family dinners

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1 Put the pumpkin or squash in a steamer or colander set over a pan of simmering water and cook for 10 mins. Test with a knife and cook for 5 mins more if not cooked through. Mash and leave to cool. 2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Line a 12-hole muffin tin with muffin cases. Mix the flour, baking powder, cinnamon and both sugars together in a large bowl. Break up any lumps of brown sugar by rubbing them between your fingers. 3 Whisk 200g of the pumpkin purée and the eggs together in a jug, then add to the dry ingredients along with the melted butter. Whisk for 1-2 mins with an electric hand whisk until just combined. 4 Bake for 15 mins, until golden, risen and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Leave on a wire rack to cool completely. Will keep for up to three days in an airtight container. PER SERVING 219 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 6g • carbs 28g • sugars 13g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0g

Bake it better with these treats made with only simple, wholesome ingredients. Make sure you buy vanilla extract, not essence, and check the ingredients labels on peanut butter, soft cheese, cocoa powder and desiccated coconut to ensure there are no hidden additives 86 goodfood.com

goodfood.com 87

UPF-free desserts, bakes and puddings

Available in all supermarkets or order online at magsdirect.co.uk


SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: . FOOD STYLIST:

Edd Kimber’s

Table for two

Whether it’s Friday night dinner or a cosy sofa supper, make one of these elevated dishes, designed to impress Recipes TIM WILSON and REBECCA SEAL Photographs SAM A HARRIS

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Aubergines stuffed with miso pork Miso, with its incredible salty savouriness, is a miracle ingredient and completely transforms both aubergine and pork. SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 2 long thin aubergines 4 tbsp vegetable oil 4 tbsp miso paste 2 tbsp honey or maple syrup 1 tsp white wine vinegar 2 tsp toasted sesame oil, plus extra to serve 300g minced pork (not lean) 3 spring onions, white and green parts separated, whites finely chopped, greens sliced on an angle 2cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated 2 nests of folded rice noodles toasted sesame seeds, to serve Trim the stem ends of the aubergines, then halve them lengthwise. Score the cut sides with a criss-cross pattern using a sharp knife, being careful not to cut through the skin. Set a wide ovenproof frying pan over a medium-high heat and add 3 tbsp of the vegetable oil. Once hot, place the aubergines, cut-sides down, in the pan. Cook for 6 mins or until the flesh is dark golden brown, then turn and cook the skin sides for 3-4 mins. Meanwhile, stir together the miso, honey or maple syrup, vinegar, sesame oil and 2 tbsp of hot water until smooth. In a separate bowl, mix together the pork, spring onion whites and ginger. Heat the grill to high. Remove the aubergines from the pan. Tip 1 tbsp of vegetable oil into the pan and turn down the heat to medium. Cook the pork mixture, stirring often, for 3-4 mins until just cooked through. Add 1 tbsp of the miso mixture and cook for a minute or so. Reserving 2 tsp, spoon the remaining miso mixture over the aubergines. Push the pork to one side and return the aubergines, cut-sides up, to the pan. Spoon the pork over the aubergines. Mix the remaining miso mixture with just enough water to make it pourable, then drizzle over the pork. Put under the grill for 6-8 mins until the pork is browning in places – keep a close watch as miso burns quickly. Pour boiling water over the noodles and set aside for 3 mins to soften, or cook following pack instructions. Serve the aubergines on top of the noodles, sprinkled with the spring onion greens and a pinch of toasted sesame seeds. Drizzle a little sesame oil over everything to serve.

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Duck breasts with mushrooms and blackberries Restaurant-level eating but with only six ingredents. Duck breast, unlike some poultry, can and should be eaten while still pink. SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY 2 skin-on duck breasts 2 knobs of butter 300g chestnut mushrooms, roughly chopped 20 sage leaves 4 tbsp port 75g blackberries (frozen are fine to use) Put the breasts on a board, skin-side up. Use a very sharp knife to lightly score the skin all over in a criss-cross pattern, being careful not to cut all the way through to the meat. Liberally salt the skins. Put the breasts, skin-side down, into a cold frying pan and only then turn the heat on to low. Sear the skin gently for 12 mins or until deep golden and very crisp – you should be able to hear the fat sizzling but it shouldn’t be frying noisily or spluttering. Turn over the meat and increase the heat to medium-high, then cook for 4 mins. Meanwhile, warm a plate for the duck to rest on. Remove the meat from the pan to the warmed plate to rest. If you want to check the internal temperature, a meat thermometer should read about 52C. Pour the hot fat out of the pan (save it for roasting potatoes) and wipe away any burned bits with kitchen paper. Add a knob of butter to the pan and put it back over a high heat, then cook the mushrooms for 5 mins, tossing and stirring, until no longer wet and deep golden brown all over. Push the mushrooms to one side of the pan and add another knob of butter and the sage leaves. Cook the leaves in the foaming butter until crisp but still fairly green, then remove from the heat. Scoop the mushrooms into a bowl and rest the sage leaves on top. Return the pan to a high heat and add the port. When bubbling, add the blackberries and a spoonful of water. Cook for 3-4 mins until the blackberries collapse and the sauce reduces. Serve the breasts with the mushrooms and crispy sage alongside, and a little of the sauce spooned over the meat.


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One-pan beef stroganoff We use beef fillet tail in the stroganoff we serve in our shops. The tail is a little more slender than the rest of the fillet. SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 250g beef fillet tail, in one piece oil, for frying 175g closed-cup chestnut mushrooms, roughly chopped 1 onion, finely sliced knob of butter 2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped or crushed 400ml chicken stock, hot 1 tbsp dijon mustard 2 tsp paprika 1 tsp worcestershire sauce, or to taste 200g fresh egg tagliatelle 5 heaped tbsp soured cream handful of parsley leaves, finely chopped Put a wide, heavy-based, lidded pan over a high heat until really hot. Season the beef all over just before cooking. Add a splash of oil to the pan and swirl it around to cover the base. Sear the beef for 3-4 mins per side so that it remains rare to medium-rare and develops a nice deep brown crust all over.

Remove the beef and let it rest on a plate. Add the mushrooms to the hot pan in a single layer with the heat still high. Don’t move the mushrooms for the first couple of minutes of cooking, so that they caramelise properly, then move them around the pan until they are browned all over. Remove the mushrooms and set them aside with the beef. Turn down the heat to low, then add the onion and a knob of butter to the pan. Gently soften the onion for 8-10 mins, then add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 min. Add the stock, mustard, paprika, worcestershire sauce and a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Turn up the heat to medium and bring to a simmer, then add the pasta and stir well. Put on the lid and cook for 3 mins. Meanwhile, slice the steak into thin strips, cutting across the grain of the meat. Turn down the heat to low and add the steak, mushrooms and any juices to the pan, and stir well. Cook for 1 min, just to heat through. Turn off the heat and add the soured cream and enough hot water to loosen the sauce (around 100ml), which should be plentiful and almost soupy rather than thick. Season thoroughly and stir through a little of the parsley. Taste the sauce and decide whether it needs any more worcestershire sauce, paprika or even mustard. Serve in warmed wide bowls with more of the parsley sprinkled on top.

Recipes extracted from Ginger Pig One Pot by Tim Wilson and Rebecca Seal (£30, Mitchell Beazley). Photographs: Sam A Harris. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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A fresh start

Whether you want to increase your protein intake or add more fibre to your diet, discover five ways M&S Food can help you hit your health goals in 2026

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BOOST YOUR NUTRIENTS

The new M&S Nutrient Dense range was created by in-house nutritionists and chefs, using nutrition guidelines developed in consultation with the British Nutrition Foundation. From speedy meals and salads to snacks and drinks, these products are made with whole foods and perfectly portioned to offer high amounts of nutrients – such as fibre, vitamins and minerals – per calorie. “Fibre takes centre stage in Nutrient

Every product in the Nutrient Dense range has the M&S Eat Well health seal of approval

Dense, as 96% of UK adults aren’t getting the recommended 30g per day*,” says M&S Senior Nutritionist Louisa Brunt. “We're making it easier to increase your intake with delicious options across the range.” Discover just a few you can choose from in the box below.

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SIP A SHOT

If you try one new thing this January, make it the M&S Nutrient Dense H5O Shot. After the sea moss trend amassed more than

Nutrient Dense Super Seeded Oaty Bread ➭ This sliced oat bread is made with a mix of linseeds, sunflower seeds and pumpkin seeds. Each slice contains 6g fibre and 6g protein. Nutrient Dense Romesco Chicken ➭ With 8g fibre and 35g protein, this flavour-packed meal for one consists of chicken in a smoky sundried tomato and red pepper romesco sauce, with spinach and a quinoa and cauliflower grain mix. Nutrient Dense Berry Bliss Bowl ➭ A natural yogurt bowl with three berry purées and chia, pomegranate and sunflower seeds, containing 10g fibre and 9g protein. Nutrient Dense Roasted Butternut & Almond Grains Salad ➭ A nourishing blend of cannellini beans, mixed grains, veg and almonds with a red pepper and miso dressing. One pot offers 13g protein and more than a third of your daily fibre.

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1.3 billion TikTok views, M&S Food sourced high-quality red algae from the cold waters of the Irish Atlantic to create this refreshing shot. Made with coconut water and vegetable fibre, each shot contains 4g fibre, 22 calories and a unique combination of five botanicals – ginger, ginseng, Japanese honeysuckle, yellow passionfruit and green cardamom – verified by researchers at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Coconut water is a source of naturally occurring electrolytes, while sea moss is high in iodine, which many people lack in their diets.

3

GO WITH YOUR GUT

The bestselling M&S Good Gut range now includes drinks, yogurts and shots made with an exclusive new M&S TriMarks™ blend of fibre, live cultures and Plenibiotic™. For instance, the Good Gut Honey & Ginger Kefir Drink is a source of calcium and protein with billions of live cultures. There are also various fibre-rich cereals, including the Good Gut Mango & Apple Granola, which feature plant foods, such as oats, barley and seeds. M&S Senior Nutritionist Sophia Thistlethwaite highlights why gut health


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is so important: "Our gut microbiome – the balance of good and bad bacteria in our digestive system – impacts our overall health in so many ways, including our mood, metabolism and immune system.”

Best enjoyed as part of a healthy, balanced lifestyle. Iodine contributes to normal energyyielding metabolism, calcium contributes to the normal function of digestive enzymes.

4

PACK IN PROTEIN

Protein contributes to the growth and maintenance of muscle mass, so Sophia recommends choosing a protein-rich meal after exercising, such as a stir-fry or salmon traybake. The M&S High Protein range has plenty of tempting options, whether you want a hearty dinner or a quick post-gym bite. You can find some of the latest products and flavours below.

5

SWITCH UP YOUR SNACKING

Of course, M&S Food has a whole host of other snacks and shots to fit every mood, diet or occasion as well. Below are three top picks for January from the High Protein and Good Gut ranges.

High Protein Strawberry Matcha Overnight Oats Pot

High Protein Sweet Chilli Popped Red Lentil Tortillas ➭ These tangy popped lentil tortillas are a source of fibre, with 6g protein per serving. Good Gut Mango & Passionfruit & Strawberry Kefir Yogurts ➭ Featuring the M&S TriMarks™ blend and billions of live cultures, these kefir yogurts are a source of calcium and protein. High Protein Shot ➭ This chocolate-flavoured milk shot contains 10g protein and no added sugar. Plus, it's a source of magnesium.

High Protein Chicken Arrabbiata ➭ Succulent British chicken in a spicy tomato sauce with pasta, roasted vegetables and spinach. This meal for one contains 44g of protein per serving and has the M&S Eat Well health seal of approval. High Protein Strawberry Matcha Overnight Oats Pot ➭ These matcha overnight oats are topped with a high protein strawberry yogurt for a total of 20g protein per pot. High Protein Green Goddess Chicken Egg Wrap ➭ With 26g protein, this egg wrap is packed with British chicken, pickled slaw and a tangy, fragrant green goddess dressing.

High Protein Chicken Arrabbiata

Discover more delicious inspiration at marksandspencer.com/health *OHID. (2025). National Diet and Nutrition Survey 2019 to 2023: report. London: UK Government

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Wine 101 with Kate Hawkings

Bulgaria This Eastern European country is an under-theradar wine region that is well worth exploring

B

ulgaria has one of the oldest wine-making heritages, going back more than 5,000 years when it was part of the Thracian civilisation, and was once the fourth largest wine producer in the world, yet it remains under the radar for many wine drinkers today. Wine is woven into the culture here – most families still grow grapes and make wine for their own consumption, and wine is at the heart of many local festivals and celebrations. Behind the Iron Curtain for more than 40 years,

when they made huge quantities of cheap, low-quality wine for their Soviet overlords, Bulgaria now has a new generation of winemakers who are turning their back on this history and producing some really great contemporary wines where the focus is very much on quality and a reflection of the wide diversity of terroirs found here. Five main wine regions include warm valleys, cool mountains and the coastal region around the Black Sea, each with its own climate, soils and grape varieties.

Main grapes M

B Bulgaria was once best known for its full-bodied, heavily oaked reds mainly made from cabernet sauvignon and merlot. While international varieties still dominate, there is a growing appreciation of indigenous grapes. Reds include punchy, spicy mavrud, earthy and herbaceous broad leaf melnik, or the more delicate, pinot noir-esque gamza, while whites such as crisp, fresh dimyat, or aromatic varieties like tamyanka and misket have their own distinctive charms. None are particularly widely available in the UK but all are well worth hunting down – they generally give excellent value for money.

Something surprising

Pét-Nat Extra Brut Riesling, Tsarev Brod Winery 2023 (£21.50, shop.oxfordwine.co.uk) From the Danube Plain near the Black Sea, this is Bulgaria’s first pétillant naturel, a style beloved by natural wine fans that gets a gentle fizz from its fermentation that finishes in the bottle. Made by Nikolay Krastev, one of Bulgaria’s leading winemakers, this has layers of apples, pears and sherbet lemons with a lovely creamy texture. Very refreshing and very delicious.

Kate Hawkings is a writer and wine consultant. Her latest book, The Little Book of Aperitifs: 50 Classic Cocktails and Delightful Drinks, is out now (£10, Quadrille). Follow her on Instagram @kate_hawkings.

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Perfect pairings

Bulgarian food is as diverse as its wines. Hearty Balkan-influenced stews, soups and grilled meats, often involving paprika, sit well with their robust red wines, while lighter, Mediterranean-accented fish and vegetable dishes work better with more delicate whites. Try the aromatic varieties with sushi or Thai-style food.


t

Bottles to try

M&S Found Dimyat (£8, ocado.com) Dimyat is Bulgaria’s mostly widely planted white grape, thought to have been brought there by the Crusaders in the Middle Ages. Aromatic and seductive with apricots and jasmine flowers on the nose but beautifully crisp and refreshing with a zippy, saline finish. Terrific value.

Where to stay

Blow o

With its sandy beaches, dramatic mountains, ski resorts, mineral-rich spas, rich culture, great food and, of course, the wine, Bulgaria has a huge amount to offer tourists but is relatively undiscovered. Zornitza is a quietly luxurious, farm-to-table family estate, close to the border with Greece and near the tiny medieval city of Melnik, is set in its own vineyard and makes a great base to explore the Struma Valley wine region. zornitzaestate.com

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Georgiev-Milkov Brestovitsa Rubin 2023 (£28.50, highburyvintners.co.uk) Petar Georgiev and Radostin Milkov made wine all around the world before starting their own project in the Thracian Valley. Rubin is a local variety, a cross between syrah and nebbiolo, and this comes from a single vineyard of 40-year-old vines. Naturally fermented and gently aged in oak, it has power but also a modern elegance that makes it very moreish.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, CAROL YEPES/MOMENT/GETTY

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ge d u

Ask a som sommelier mmelier Your easy guide to getting the most out of your wine glass

Yvonne Ho, H Milk Beach Yvonne was head sommelier at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Vancouver before moving to London and working at the likes of Leroy and People’s Wine. As head of wine at Antipodean-inspired Milk Beach, she champions classic Australian wines and smaller growers. milkbeach.com I’m stuck in a white wine rut and always order sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio – what else can I try? Sémillon is one of those ones that a lot of people don’t know. Australia produces a lot of single-varietal sémillon and makes it really well – it ranges from light, refreshing and crisp to really aged with incredible depth. One of my favourite things is telling people what to say to the waiter when they go to a restaurant. Say, ‘I normally like a pinot grigio, I like a crisp one, but I always go for this so what’s something different in the same price point that I should try?’ Because if you just state ‘I like pinot grigio’, sometimes the sommelier will bring you something that’s £30 over what you normally spend. Is there a wine trend that you’d like to see disappear? The idea that sparkling wine is only for the holidays or celebrations. People wildly underestimate how versatile it is, especially with food. Same with rosé. People just think of it as a summer patio, smashable type of thing – I love rosé any time of year. I think rosé and sparkling are probably the most versatile food wines out there.

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ONN BOTTLE ONE THREE H SERVES Ageing agave spirits gives them a totally different character – welcome to the world of añejo tequila Recipes HANNAH GUINNESS Photographs ANT DUNCAN

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WHERE TO BUY Tapatio Añejo Tequila (£37.25/500ml, masterofmalt.com) Ageing for 18 months in oak gives this tequila a rich and almost creamy character, with subtle spice and caramel notes that complement a delicate herbaceousness. Enemigo 00 Extra Añejo Tequila (£185/700ml, The Whisky Exchange) An award-winning spirit, matured for three years, this is a deeply complex liquid replete with dried fruit and baking spice notes. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

W

e’re all familiar with blanco tequila, a clear, unaged agave spirit that we typically enjoy either knocked back as a shot or in popular cocktails like the margarita or paloma. Ageing tequila, however, turns it into a totally different sipping spirit that you can really savour. Aged tequila comes in two styles. Reposado, which is aged for a minimum of two months in oak casks, and añejo, which is aged for at least one year in oak casks. There is also a newer category called extra añejo, which sees tequila aged for at least three years. This latter category is a premium one that can command accordingly high prices. While blanco tequila is known for its pure, bright notes of herbs, grass, agave, citrus and pepper, barrel-ageing tequila imparts a whole new dimension to the spirit thanks to all that time spent in contact with wood: think rich, complex notes of vanilla, caramel, oak, baking spice and dried fruits, aromas and flavours that make it seem more similar to other barrel-aged spirits like whisky, rum and cognac. This similarity is echoed in the appearance of añejo tequila, transforming from a colourless spirit into an amber-hued liquid. All of the above makes añejo tequila a great swap in classic cocktails that use dark spirits, like an old fashioned or manhattan, or it’s delicious simply sipped neat or on the rocks.


AÑEJO MULE

We’ve taken a classic moscow mule and replaced the vodka with aged tequila, which adds a lovely complexity to this easy highball.

SERVES 1 | 5 MINS | EASY 40-50ml añejo tequila 1 tbsp lime juice 1 tbsp agave syrup ginger beer, to top up mint sprig and lime wheel, to garnish

Half fill a copper mug or highball glass with ice. Add the tequila, lime juice and agave syrup, then gently stir. Add more ice to the glass and top up with the ginger beer. Garnish with a mint sprig and lime wheel.

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AÑEJO

AMARETTO ALEXANDER

Tequila and cream sounds like a rogue combination but using aged añejo tequila works really well in this nutty pudding cocktail.

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SERVES 1 | 5 MINS | EASY 50ml añejo tequila 10ml amaretto 30ml white crème de cacao 30ml single cream grated nutmeg and ground cinnamon, to garnish

Put all the ingredients except the garnishes in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake well, strain into a chilled coupe glass and sprinkle over the nutmeg and cinnamon.


,

AÑEJO

OLD FASHIONED

While an old fashioned is traditionally made with whisky it also works beautifully with any barrel-aged spirit – try doing the same with dark rum or cognac.

SERVES 1 | 5 MINS | EASY 2-3 tsp agave syrup dash of Angostura bitters dash of orange bitters 50ml añejo tequila orange peel, to garnish maraschino cherry, to garnish

Put the agave syrup and the bitters in an old fashioned glass, and stir until combined. Fill the glass with ice, pour over the tequila and stir. Garnish with the orange peel and a maraschino cherry.

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The experts in your pocket The Good Food app is my go-to source for inspiration, recipes and menu planning Claire

Try exclusive recipes from the best chefs and writers of the moment, including Sabrina Ghayour, Brin Pirathapan and Chetna Makan, all on the Good Food app

Download today and access over 17,000 recipes, meal plans and exclusive celebrity chef content, all in one trusted app


Garnish Icon stainless steel tongs £22, anthropologie.com

East London Threads: Blended Whisky £42/700ml, eastlondonliquorcompany.com

Aperitif hour

The first launch from ELLC in three years, this collab with Compass Box founder John Glaser is a blend of the brand’s own whiskies with Scottish single malts. The end result is enjoyably smashable, fruity with a wisp of smoke.

Beautiful bottles and barware to take your cocktails to the next level

Using tongs to carefully place ice into your drinks will help them look visually appealing.

Kazimo cocktail mixers £14/8 x 150ml cans, kazimomixers.com

Hambledon Classic Cuvée Rosé £37.50/750ml, waitrosecellar.com

These punchy mixers just need to be paired with a spirit to make an easy cocktail – flavours include passion fruit, yuzu and, our favourites, tangy rhubarb (try with tequila in a paloma) and spicy watermelon for margs.

Beautiful pink English fizz from Hampshire, this is crammed full of red fruits with a savoury, saline edge.

Impossibrew Triple-Hopped IPA £34/10 x 440ml cans, impossibrew.co.uk

Ceylon Arrack £35.95/700ml, masterofmalt.com

Botivo Sparkling Botanical Aperitivo £3.50/250ml, Waitrose

Sri Lankan arrack is made from the flower sap of the coconut palm. Aged in native halmilla wood, this is a delicate spirit with gentle floral, nutty and woody notes. It would make a rather nice daiquiri or drink long with ginger beer.

Botivo has mixed its tangy, citrussy, herbal non-alcoholic aperitivo with soda and orange zest in this chic ready-to-drink, bursting with refreshing bittersweet flavour.

This alcohol-free beer contains natural adaptogens and nootropics such as L-theanine and ashwagandha to promote relaxation. It has a full-bodied character with stone fruit and tropical tones.

HKliving 70s ceramics tapas bowls £36.80/set of four, folkinteriors.co.uk Pretty bowls perfect for serving bar snacks and pre-dinner nibbles.

Nude Cheers digestif set £26.35, nudeglass.com Ideal for postprandial sipping, this set is made up of crystal whisky, cognac and grappa glasses designed to enhance the aromas and flavours of what you’re drinking.

Words HANNAH GUINNESS

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YOUR ULTIMATE DINNER INSPIRATION Two flavour experts have joined forces to serve up feel-good dishes from £3.20 a meal.* Choose from over 175 recipes every week, with everything you need delivered to your door.

Get 50% OFF your first box at gousto.co.uk/goodfood Order now for next day delivery New customers only. * Excludes delivery and surcharge items. Offer ends 31.12.26. Skip or cancel anytime for free. T&Cs apply. Next day delivery when you order before 12pm Friday-Tuesday. Subject to availability and geographical restrictions. Visit gousto.co.uk/ndd.


EL PEQUEÑO BAR, MONTREAL, CANADA

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At just 150 square feet, El Pequeño lives up to its moniker – a teeny yet elegant slice of 1920s Havana nostalgia, with marble counters and an ornate glass chandelier set in the cobbled, 19th-century surrounds of Old Montreal. And, when we say it’s small, we really mean it: there’s capacity for just nine people. Bag a spot at the bar (where you’ll find the only seats in the house) and delve into the roster of rum cocktails, enjoyed alongside Cubano sandwiches. elpequenobar.com

What to order The menu is pleasingly pithy, featuring a short roster of Cuban classics like the mojito or daiquiri, slushies (make ours a cherry daiquiri) and a few original creations – try the Mango No 5 with Plantation dark rum, pineau des charentes, mango, cinnamon, lime and milk punch. The bar also has a collection of high-end rums for sipping neat, if that’s your preference.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JEANNE PROVOST, MARCIA HUM PHOTOGRAPHY

EQUAL PARTS, HACKNEY, LONDON Michael Sager’s Italian aperitivo bar is located in a green tile fronted corner spot, a few doors down from the original Sager + Wilde wine bar. It’s an elegant yet unfussy space, with plenty of wood panelling, flickering candles and vinyl twirling on the decks. Perch at the window ledge to watch trendy passersby, or bag a spot at the bar to see the team shake and stir signature cocktails in front of an impressive line-up of amaros, aperitivo and bitters. equalpartslondon.com

What to order The Flor cocktail combines fino sherry and olive oil vodka with Matteo’s elevated clarification of fresh tomato, basil, chilli and a tiny touch of garlic for a bright, fresh finish – à la liquid bruschetta – that evokes the Sardinian coast.

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THE HIDEOUT, BATH Secreted within the pristinely preserved Georgian environs of Bath, this whisky-lined drinking den is located in historic Lilliput Court, just two minutes’ walk from the Roman baths. According to local legend the place was bricked up and forgotten about for years, becoming a meeting place for thieves and other disreputable characters. Today, however, it’s a stylishly moody, speakeasy-style spot with a specialism in whisky – enjoy a dram from the 300-strong collection, including single-cask options exclusive to the bar, plus changing seasonal cocktails and a core list of signature serves. hideoutbath.co.uk

What to order The house old fashioned features a blend of Evan Williams and WhistlePig whiskies, plus maple and bitters.

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Your ticket includes free entry to

NEC, BIRMINGHAM

)⊃ O J∅ G flavour

starts here Fresh ideas, simple swaps and inspiration for your summer kitchen

This summer, we’re shining a spotlight on delicious ways to feel your best with Let’s Talk Good Health, brand new themed sessions designed to help you bring healthier choices into your cooking without sacrificing on flavour. Join expert Dr Chintal Patel and more, as they share easy tips, clever swaps and everyday inspiration you can use long after the show. Plus, don’t miss out on your free seat in the Big Kitchen, included in your Early Bird deal, where you can catch top culinary stars including Si King, James Martin, John Torode and Lisa Faulkner and more live in the theatre serving up mouthwatering summer recipes.

(DUO\ %LUGV JHW WKH EHVW VD⊆ QJ Book your Early Bird tickets and save 25%* on admission plus get a free Silver seat in selected Big Kitchen sessions* when you use code OLIVE25 WITH THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS: Headline sponsor

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*Subscriber 30% and 25% offer valid on adult/standard entry tickets offer ends 23:59pm 2 February 2026, free Big Kitchen on selected sessions only. All offers exclude Saturday, VIP tickets, 2-day tickets, added extras, not valid with any other offer. £3.95 transaction fee per e-ticket per order, not all celebrities appear on all days and the line-up in subject to change. Details correct at time of print. Organised and presented by Immediate Live, the trading name of River Street Events Ltd. Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT. Company number 02708675.


S L O W

T R A V E L

A natural high in Peru Heather Steele winds through the country’s highlands and lakes aboard a luxury sleeper train

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, HUGH SITTON/STONE/GETTY

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he colourful Peruvian city of Cusco is best known as the gateway to Machu Picchu. It’s also the starting point to a slower adventure, one that ascends over 2,000 metres above even the Lost City of the Incas. Along one of the world’s highest train routes, the Andean Explorer, A Belmond Train takes three days to travel fewer than 200 miles, winding its way through the Peruvian highlands and expanses of the Andes that would otherwise be inaccessible. The ‘explorer’ part of the train’s name is key. This isn’t just a mode of transport, it’s an experience that immerses travellers in the landscapes and Andean way of life, from the moment your eyes first fall on a herd of wild llamas roaming the grasslands to the final pisco sour in the Piano Bar.

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Think luxury train travel and you probably picture the Agatha Christie era Orient Express snaking its way splendidly through Europe. This is exactly the elegance that Belmond wanted for its Andean Explorer, which arrived in 2017 as the first luxe sleeper train in South America. The lengths to which they were prepared to go to get that elegance were remarkable: all 20 midnight-blue carriages came from Australia via a three-month voyage across the Pacific. In situ, that blue hue pops against the earthy oranges of the Peruvian plains, perfectly mimicking the night sky above. Interior design details were inspired by the texture of Peru’s traditional hand-woven fabrics, the soft tones of alpaca wool and the slate greys of the Andes. Best of all, though, the 35 private cabins – there are double suites, twins or bunk beds – come with large windows to gaze out of. On one joyful morning I saw hares, chinchillas and alpacas in the space of just five minutes. The days begin early in the Andes and on both mornings we were up at 5.15am for sunrise. Clouds over Lake Titicaca conspired against us on day one but the team went out of its way to make the punchy wake-up call worthwhile, building fires, handing out blankets and pouring coffee. At Saracocha on day two, where we’d been able to count constellations with our guide William the night before, we were rewarded with far-reaching views across Lake Lagunillas as the daylight spread around the mountains beyond.

PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD JAMES TAYLOR/BELMOND, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

These guided activities are highlights of the Peruvian Highlands itinerary. There are archaeological wonders to be seen at the Inca complex of Raqch’i. A full day is dedicated to Lake Titicaca. After a half-hour boat ride from the shore we stepped onto one of its man-made islands. Known for their distinctive cat-shaped boats, the Uros have lived on the lake for centuries, on islands created with layers upon layers of totora reeds. We were shown around by island president Caesar, watching on as girls in colourful dresses cooked up a pot of ducks they’d caught that morning.

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Another boat ride away was the bay of Collata, the world’s highest beach, on Taquile Island. The water was warm enough to swim in – just the way to work up an appetite for lunch at La Receta, a family-run restaurant that showcases the heritage of the local Huillanopampa people: think choclo corn and cachangas (fried bread) with chilli salsa, followed by grilled trout and rice. Back on board, there’s something fun about rattling along as you eat, martini glass pleasantly vibrating against the table. And, like most things on the Andean Explorer, every ingredient on your plate has a story. There are over 3,000 varieties of potato in Peru. We tried them many ways in the dining carriage, most memorably one lunchtime in a beautiful curried soup with seaweed. Another meal brought a chance to try the Arequipa delicacy of queso helado, a cheese ice cream, here served with cinnamon meringue and lucuma. Breakfasts could kick off with quinoa porridge. And then there was trout. Introduced to Lake Titicaca from Massachusetts in the 1960s, they’ve now overtaken the native catfish, so fishing for trout is the locals’ way of protecting the indigenous fish. As ceviche for lunch, smoked and delicately shaped into a flower as a starter, or simply grilled with yuca purée, I was happy to do my bit.

Any altitude upsets are also likely to diminih in the face of the scale and wonder of these surroundings. I actually squealed with joy when I spotted my first pack of alpacas

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PHOTOGRAPHS: BELMOND, HEATHER STEELE, MARK NEWMAN/THE IMAGE BANK, GERAINT ROWLAND PHOTOGRAPHY/MOMENT OPEN/GETTY

Andean flowers and herbs are important enough to life here that each of the train’s carriages is named after one. As we hiked into the belly of a canyon we were given homemade hibiscus water to refresh ourselves. Back at the top there was a concoction of watermelon juice and lemongrass waiting for us on the train. During an evening stop at La Raya Pass, trays of hot sweetened almond milk circulated as we gazed up at snow-capped Chimboya mountain, which looms large as the trip’s highest peak at 5,489 metres. Herbs are also prized for their medicinal qualities. In the Picaflor spa car an altitude-acclimatising massage featured a bowl of infused, locally gathered herbs to inhale. Muña (an Andean mint) and coca tea are always available to settle any unease from the elevation. Though if you ask the bar staff they might also tell you that cocktails are the best medicine and hand you a Selva Alta of gin, cacao, black tea, highaltitude citrus and pineapple. Any altitude upsets are also likely to diminish in the face of the scale and wonder of these surroundings. I actually squealed with joy when I spotted my first pack of alpacas, and we soon learned the difference between the different camelids (llamas are the biggest, then alpacas, then vicuñas). A hike to the Sumbay Caves in the Salinas y Aguada Blanca National Reserve was awesome in the deepest sense of that word. We saw more than 500 ancient cave paintings, mainly of camelids, made by the region’s first human inhabitants more than 8,000 years ago. Look closely and you can spot one person and one puma among them.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: NICOLAS QUINIOU/BELMOND

As the train rumbled along we relaxed into a rhythm and learnt to sway with the carriages. The place to be was often the outdoor observation deck at the very back of the train. With a coffee, an Inca Kola or a pisco sour, I read a book as we rolled past peaks and canyons. I loved leaning over the railings, watching the train snaking before me through the changing panoramas. It felt as bittersweet as coca tea when William pointed out the three volcanos – the largest of them, magnificent Misti, capped in snow – that signal the end of the journey in Arequipa. I was a solo traveller but by the end of the three days I’d befriended two sets of honeymooning newlyweds from the USA. As is often the case we came together over the dinner table, breaking into each meal’s sculptural bread, trading tasting notes on watermelon ceviche, sharing bottles of Peruvian sauvignon blanc and drinking martinis in anoraks. As we disembarked, the entire train crew lined up and applauded as we walked past. But, of course, it’s they who really deserve the plaudits, for showing off the very best of their magical country.

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I loved leaning over the railings, watching the train snaking before me through the changing panoramas

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READER OFFER

Taste your way around beautiful Bologna and Modena Sample the best food the Emilia-Romagna region has to offer, plus learn to cook like a local with a fun cooking lesson From

DATES: 16-21 MAY AND 2-7 OCTOBER 2026

£1,719 Known as La Grassa – ‘the fat one’ – per person*

Bologna is Italy’s gastronomic capital and renowned for its hearty homemade pastas, meaty ragus and myrtle-spiced mortadella sausage. This six-day gourmet adventure includes a mouthwatering foodie tour of Bologna, a visit to a local parmesan factory, a balsamic vineyard and a family-run parma ham producer, plus a very special cooking lesson with a welcoming local host in Modena, who will show you how to make the most of the flavoursome local produce to recreate fantastic Italian dishes back at home. REASONS TO BOOK: Learn to cook like a local In Modena you’ll get the chance to join welcoming local hosts to learn how to cook delicious Italian dishes in the most authentic ways. Plenty of tastings Discover the flavours of the wider Emilia-Romagna region with tours to local producers of parma ham, balsamic vinegar and parmesan cheese. Beautiful Bologna You’ll discover how Bologna gets its reputation as Italy’s best foodie city on a guided tour, plus have time to see the historic centre. WHAT’S INCLUDED: • • • • • • • • • •

Three nights’ hotel accommodation in Bologna Two nights’ hotel accommodation in Modena Breakfast each day at your hotel Two lunches Bologna food walking tour Parmesan, parma ham and balsamic vinegar tour and tasting Cooking lesson with a local chef Services of a bilingual guide Return flights from the UK All transfers and airport pick-up and drop-off

To BOOK call 03308 087 864 and quote ‘olive Bologna’ or, for more information, visit olive.tripsmiths.com/bologna TERMS AND CONDITIONS *From price is per person, based on two sharing, subject to availability. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Single supplement applies. Deposit 30%. Local charges such as tourist tax may apply. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. This holiday may be sold through other selected brands. Images used may not reflect your actual tour experience. Tours are operated by and subject to the booking conditions of TS Travel Ltd (ATOL bonded).

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PHOTOGRAPH: JEAN-PHILIPPE TOURNUT/MOMENT/GETTY

TRAVEL TRENDS The hottest destinations of 2026

Looking to book a food-focussed holiday? Put one of these places on your must-visit list now Words GURDEEP LOYAL

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Aix-en-Provence, France The sun-soaked city of Aix, just 30 minutes from Marseille, has long attracted food adventurers looking for an authentic taste of Provence. In recent years it’s seen a new wave of culinary creatives bringing their unique flair to the town. The bustling open-air Marché d’Aix is a great place to start exploring, where stalls overflow with local goat’s cheeses, lavender honey, fragrant herbes de Provence and calissons (marzipanlike iced confectionery made from almonds). Pick up a buttery croissant at Farinoman Fou – one of the best bakeries in town – then wander through Cours Mirabeau taking in the calm vibes of the café-lined streets. For lunch, head to modern bistro Le Ramus for contemporary takes on traditional dishes such as panisse with curry aïoli, seared octopus tartare and homemade tarte tatin. Don’t miss Château La Coste, a beautiful vineyard that hosts contemporary art exhibitions with five restaurants dotted around the estate. End your day at Les Galinas, a rustic Provençal restaurant with a focus on seasonality and simplicity. Try dishes like confit lamb with nutmeg, mackerel in white wine, devilled ‘mimosa’ eggs and flambéed crêpes suzette to finish.

Above, from left: a dish at Les Galinas; a square in Aix-enProvence’s old town; downtown Chicago, Villa Mandarine in Rabat

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PHOTOGRAPHS: BÉLA TÖRÖK/500PX, JONATHAN D GOFORTH/MOMENT OPEN/GETTY

Rabat, Morocco A relaxed city with its own unique culinary culture, Rabat is being hailed as the new Marrakesh. After taking in the 12th-century mosque and historic hilltop kasbah, the vibrant Souk el Kebir (‘big market’) is the best place to begin your foodie immersion. Its atmospheric alleyways are filled with traders selling preserved lemons, honey, spices and traditional Moroccan tagines cooked in wood-fired ovens – and the market really comes to life with entertainment in the evening. Rabat has a vibrant street food scene with stalls all over the city selling Moroccan specialities like rziza (coiled stringy bread), pastillas (sweet-savoury flaky pie with almonds and cinnamon) and habricha (a local sandwich filled with ground meat or fish, olives, spices and sauces). For lunch head to Le Dhow, a converted wooden boat moored on the Bou Regreg river, serving Moroccan cuisine with live music. Alternatively, Villa Mandarine is a refined spot set in an orange grove. Try dinner at Le Ziryab, a classic Rabati restaurant combining traditional cuisine and Andalusian music, where it’s worth trying rfissa – slow-cooked chicken and lentils over shredded msemen flatbreads with saffron and fenugreek.

Chicago, USA Chicago is a city filled with gourmet neighbourhoods that light up the city like a big culinary mosaic. The West Loop Fulton Market District is the sleekest and trendiest place to start – home to Time Out Market Chicago which packs in more than 15 eateries including Bar Goa (a coastal Indian offering), Bill Kim Ramen Bar and Lil Amaru for Latin street food. Head south to Pilsen, Chicago’s hub of Mexican cuisine and heritage, where family-run taquerias like Don Pedro Carnitas are a must-try. There is an area for everything: dim sum parlours in Chinatown, classic Italian-American restaurants in Little Italy on Taylor Street, and a taste of Swedish roots in Andersonville in the north. Kasama, a Filipino restaurant and bakery in the East Ukrainian Village, was made famous thanks to The Bear and has diners queuing around the block for the pork adobo and ube basque cheesecake. Loba Pastry in North Center on an unassuming corner produces some of the best baked goods in the city. It specialises in unusual pastries and seasonal fruits, like pineapple sourdough muffins, curry white chocolate scones and laminated black sesame buns. Finally, Sifr in River North is a stylish Middle Eastern restaurant serving up wood-fired baharat angus beef kebabs and seasonal meze.

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From left: a beach at Porto Giunco in Sardinia, Registan Square in Samarkand, Quinta do Quetzal winery in Alentejo

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

The Italian island of Sardinia is a haven for food lovers, where flavours of the land and sea meet wih rugged Medierranean sensibiliy


Samarkand, Uzbekistan The cultural capital of Uzbekistan, Samarkand is a city rich in history – a crossroads along the silk roads where Persian, Turkic, Russian and Chinese culinary influences all converge. It’s celebrated for its striking Islamic architecture, beautiful mosaics and unique cuisine. Siyob Bozori (or Siab Bazaar) is a great place to start, where you’ll find countless stalls selling local delights like dried apricots, pistachio halvas, spices and fragrant Uzbek pastries like samsa – triangle pastries stuffed with meat or pumpkin, onion and spices. Plov, Uzbekistan’s national dish is a must-try – a one-pot pilaf rice dish with additions like lamb, carrots, cumin, coriander and whole heads of garlic. Samarqand Osh Markazi is a popular communal restaurant famous for its cauldrons of plov rice garnished with lamb, raisins, barberries, red chilli, quail’s egg and chickpeas. For the city’s best kebabs head to Ikrom Shashlik, which serves coal-charred skewers with fresh tomato and onion salads, and tangy strained yogurt dip. Other local dishes to try are manti (Uzbek steamed dumplings) filled with lamb and herbs served on smetana soured cream, and laghman, a hand-pulled Uyghur noodle dish in fragrant broth, beef and vegetables, both of which you can try at the atmospheric Old City Restaurant.

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Sardinia, Italy

Alentejo, Portugal

From the mountains of Barbagia to the coastlines of Alghero and Cagliari, the Italian island of Sardinia is a haven for food lovers, where flavours of the land and sea meet with rugged Mediterranean sensibility. Fresh tuna, sardines, lamb and pork are the mainstays of the island, cooked up into an aromatic, fruity and richly robust cuisine that reflects the island’s unique environment. Porceddu is a signature dish not to miss – a suckling pig slow-roasted over myrtle branches and stuffed with aromatics like rosemary and fennel, until the skin is crackling and the meat tender. Try it at S’Apposentu in the beautiful village of Siddi, where chef Roberto Petza is reimagining Sardinian pastoral cooking with Michelin-starred finesse. For lunch, head to Trattoria Sa Bell’e Crabasa which specialises in local seafood like bottarga pâté with seasonal artichokes, grilled local mullet and clams, and comunedda – stewed eels with pecorino. The stylish Da Renzo in Siamaggiore is known for its pasta dishes like lemon ricotta ravioli with tomato and basil, spaghetti with lobster, and malloreddus with wild boar. While on the island make sure to enjoy a glass of bold cannonau – the signature red wine with a rich, full-bodied flavour. Head to Sarduzzo Enoteca, a wine shop specialising in vintages from Sardinian and Abruzzo territories, that serves up many of its wines by the glass alongside a menu of arrosticini skewers.

The unspoilt Alentejo region of Portugal sits in between Lisbon to its north and the Algarve to its south. It’s known for being the wine heartland of Portugal, producing rich, jammy, powerfully spiced reds. It has a rustic, hearty cuisine, with serene markets in cities like Evora and even an ancient fortress – the city of Elvas. Overlooking the bay of Porto Covo, Lamelas is a family-run restaurant whose mission is to celebrate new Alentejo cuisine using seasonal ingredients and sustainable principles. The menu includes highlights like hake with clams in molho verde, Alentejo-style pork ribs and white beans with seaweed and kale. The atmospheric Tasca do Celso in Vila Nova de Milfontes is famous for its cataplana de peixe (fish stew) and exceptional wine list that shows off the best vineyards of the region. Nestled on the sun-drenched slopes of Vidigueira in the heart of the region is Quinta do Quetzal, a stunning sustainable winery and restaurant where the legacy of ancient vines meets the innovation of contemporary cuisine. Its ‘rich red’ wine is made with alicante bouschet grapes picked at their ripest and is best served chilled, while the restaurant from chef João Mourato reimagines the region’s traditional dishes with a modern twist. Think confit cod with roast garlic and pickled mushrooms, game ravioli, and grape ice cream with olive oil.

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Folegandros, Greece The small rugged island of Folegandros in the Cyclades offers up a unique taste of Greece away from the busy crowds. Chora, the island’s vehiclefree clifftop capital, is the best place to begin. Built around three interconnected squares, it’s dotted with whitewashed tavernas that serve matsáta, a local pasta with a rabbit-tomato sauce and sourotó, the island’s goat’s cheese, drizzled with thyme honey. To Goupi is one of the most charming tavernas, offering authentic island meze like fava bean fritters, and seafood dishes like octopus with black-eyed beans. In Ano Meria on the western edge of the island, head to Folegandros Bakery, which is famous for its homemade pies including karpouzenia – a unique watermelon pie with honey, sesame and cinnamon. Karavostasi is the main port area where Faros tou Panteli is known for its stunning views and lobster spaghetti. End your day at Agali beach with papoutsaki (stuffed aubergine), baked pastitsio and chilled Greek wines at O Psaromiligkas, a family-run restaurant known for its refined farm-totable cooking that celebrates the freshest seasonal produce of the island.

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Mexico City, Mexico Mexico City blends ancient folkloric tradition and modern creativity with a fresh vibrancy. Every neighbourhood offers something different. The Centro Histórico is a good place to begin, particularly the stalls close to Mercado de San Juan where you’ll find must-try street foods like sizzling tacos al pastor and tamales oaxaqueños. The neighbourhoods of Roma and Condesa – the city’s culinary heartbeat – are the best place to explore the contemporary side, where hip chefs are reinventing Mexican cuisine with a global outlook. The stylish Madre Café serves up dishes like enmoladas – stuffed tortillas dipped in homemade mole poblano – or cochinita pork, refried bean and avocado sandwiches. Another popular spot in the area is Contramar, famous for its crispy tostadas with toppings like shrimp, chipotle mayonnaise, salsa macha and sweet potato. In the luxurious Polanco, Quintonil is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant renowned for its modern seasonal Mexican cuisine with dishes like duck pibil tamal and smoky avocado tartare paired with escamoles (edible ant larvae). Mercado de la Merced is a wonderful spot to try out regional specialities like barbacoa and aguas frescas. Finally, the charming area of Coyoacán is great for fresh churros and mariachi music. Try the chocolate a la mexicana at Churrería El Moro Coyoacán, whose origins date back to 1935.

PHOTOGRAPHS: FRANCESCO RICCARDO LACOMINO, FERNANDO VAZQUEZ MIRAS, MANUEL BREVA COLMEIRO/MOMENT OPEN/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

From left: Mexican tamales wrapped in corn husk; the hilly landscape of Folegandros; Raohe Night Market in Taipei; one of the many beautiful beaches in Mauritius


Taipei, Taiwan

Mauritius

Taipei, the capital of Taiwan, is one of the most exciting food cities in Asia, a paradise for adventurous eaters that spans everything from street food night markets through to Michelin fine dining. Ningxia Night Market is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the city’s culinary scene, where you can try signature dishes like barbecue Taiwanese sausages, sizzling oyster omelettes, rou jia mo pork belly buns and fried stinky tofu. For breakfast head to Chia Te Bakery, which serves up awardwinning classic Taiwanese pastries, like its original buttery pineapple egg yolk pastry, candied watermelon ‘wife’ cakes and savoury onion-nougat cracker cookies. Fine dining vegetarian restaurant Clavius has a creative mixture of Taiwanese plantbased plates with delicate Asian flavours, including marshmallow aubergine tomato soup, stir-fried brussels with fermented tofu, and chickpea corn crisps with red miso dip. A classic no-frills institution in the Da’an district not to miss is Yongkang Beef Noodles. Its signature braised beef noodle in spicy broth is rich, complex and flecked with chunks of beef flank. Finally, for all-day snacks head to local favourite Fu Hang Dou Jiang, famous for its salty-milk soup, flaky sesame shaobing stuffed with egg and crispy youtiao fried dough sticker.

The tropical island of Mauritius is a melting pot of Indian, African, Chinese and French influences that all come together in a fresh, spicy and exhilaratingly flavourful cuisine. Classic street food dishes like dal puri served up at institutions like Chez Bye Dhollpurri Roti in Rose Hill and Chef Vor at Bagatelle Mall are a must-try – thin pancake rotis filled with a spicy yellow pea filling, griddled until fluffy and served with chutneys and curry. La Rougaille Créole on Sunset Boulevard is a family-run restaurant where you can savour traditional Mauritian seafood rougaille – a tomato-based stew rich in onions, garlic, ginger, thyme and chilli, and Creole dishes like octopus aubergine curry. The stylish fine dining restaurant Domaine Anna on the west coast offers up a Chinese-leaning take on Mauritian food with dishes like sautéed calamari with shallots and ginger, and sizzling beef with onions. Quatre Bornes Market and Rose Hill Market are the best places to head for deep-fried Mauritian fritters called gâteaux piments, made with split peas, spices and herbs. Finally, set among the historic Balaclava ruins, Le Capitaine is an iconic seafood restaurant that serves up the freshest local produce into dishes like grilled fish with Creole rice, scampi curry and octopus salad with lime vinaigrette.

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Switch off at one of these destination hotels rooted in nature – from Alpine Austria to coastal Calabria and rural Wales 92


WIESERGUT, SAALBACH-HINTERGLEMM, AUSTRIA In a nutshell Set at 1,000 metres above sea level, Wiesergut is a family-run boutique hideaway with just 17 manor suites, surrounded by snow-dusted peaks and tucked into the quiet valley of Hinterglemm. What’s the vibe? Style leans towards minimalist Alpine chic – warm timber, sweeping floorto-ceiling windows, private gardens, in-room fireplaces and steaming outdoor hot tubs – yet the atmosphere remains warm and easy-going. Families, couples and solo travellers are all made to feel at home. The heated outdoor pool with hot tub jets and mountain views is the focal point of the hotel, with outdoor fire pits lit in the evenings for a magical end to the day. Food and drink Wiesergut began as an Alpine hut offering home-produced snacks and refuge to travellers, and farm-to-fork eating still sits at the heart of life here. The menu includes herbs and vegetables from the hotel’s garden, matured cheeses from neighbouring farms, and breads baked in-house. Every evening you’ll find a changing tasting menu centred around seasonal ingredients and comforting Austrian classics such as beef goulash with pickles, soured cream and chives, or veal schnitzel with lingonberries. Which room to book There are 24 rooms including the Manor, Garden and Hideaway suites, plus a separate mountain villa including a loft that sleeps up to six. Garden suites offer bright, spacious rooms with high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a private sun terrace with hot tub. The open living area with wood-burning stove and locally crafted furnishings is the perfect place to watch the sunset behind the mountains. The bathroom sits on a separate level with modern wood-and-marble finishes, plus there’s a freestanding bath in the bedroom for ultimate opulence. What’s for breakfast? Breakfasts are an event in themselves. Guests can choose from an abundance of cheeses, freshly baked breads, fruits and freshly squeezed juices served from an à la carte trolley, or enjoy freshly laid eggs cooked to order.

WORDS: LILY BARCLAY, AILSA BURT, KATIE HOPKINS. PHOTOGRAPHS: KLAUS PETERLIN, HARI PULKO, PATRICK DUNST

Anything else? The hotel sits directly at the foot of the Zwölferkogel lift station, offering effortless access to the slopes above, yet the village remains relatively quiet and peaceful. wiesergut.com

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VILLA PAOLA, TROPEA, ITALY In a nutshell Rustic luxury in a pink-hued former 16th-century convent, set among the cliffs and hills of Calabria at the southern tip of Italy. What’s the vibe? From crisp white linen bedding to cool marble bathrooms, a secluded infinity pool and serene courtyards, Villa Paola is perfect for some R&R. Terraces look out to the Costa Degli Dei (coast of the gods) and over the farmland below, where the restaurant grows a lot of its produce. Meander down through the tiered gardens to the hotel’s own hives, and spot Tropea’s famous red onions. Food and drink Enjoy an aperitivo overlooking the sea after spending time on the beach or wandering around Tropea. There’s a bistro-style menu during the day with dishes such as sourdough pizzas, red onion salads and club sandwiches. De’ Minimi restaurant offers more refined tasting menus, meticulously designed with seasonality at the forefront and an emphasis on local produce and zero waste. There are various menus but think charcoal-grilled spaghettone with artichoke, fresh sea trout with beetroot and hay, and, to finish, a dessert of goat’s curd ice cream and local honey. Which room to book Superior rooms overlook the hills of Tropea and Parghelia, just off the main courtyard, with bird song to gently wake you and white wooden shutters to throw open in the morning. While deluxe rooms offer more sweeping panoramas of the towns, the executive room has a private terrace with views straight out to sea, and the Eremita suite has its own Turkish bath as well as a veranda. What’s for breakfast? A three-tiered stand of daily-changing treats arrives to the table for enjoying with your morning cappuccino. There’s also a continental buffet of fruit, pastries and cakes, with à la carte options including omelettes and local honey, which is the star of the show here – make sure to load your yogurt with a generous drizzle. Neighbourhood gems Climb up into Tropea, built into the cliffs, and pick up some treats at Enogastronomia Lorenzo, including ’nduja to take back home. Livasi Food & Store is a good place to stop for a snack, including charcuterie boards with onions three ways: pickled, made into a pâté and slow-cooked. Villa Paola offers rooms from £285 per night, based on two people sharing a double room on a B&B basis. villapaolatropea.it

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GROVE, NARBERTH, PEMBROKESHIRE In a nutshell Quiet, carefully considered luxury in a beautifully restored 15th-century house in the Narberth Hills, Grove is warm, calm and a place to completely switch off and relax. What’s the vibe? Warm, friendly staff and a labyrinth of cosy lounges make the space feel more like a home than a hotel. Hunker down in an armchair by an open fire or wander the wooded grounds to soak in views of the Preseli Hills. There are thoughtful touches everywhere – umbrellas by the front door to account for Welsh weather, complimentary digital newspapers and magazines (including olive) to read, toiletries provided by Good Wash Company, and drinking water from the hotel’s own spring. Food and drink The two restaurants, Artisan Rooms and Fernery, are headed by executive chef Douglas Balish. The former is a more casual brasserie, while the latter offers an unmissable five- or seven-course tasting menu. Changing each season, it tells a story of local producers from west and south Wales, featuring ingredients from Grove’s kitchen garden. Each course is a creative balance of flavours and textures, championing ingredients like seaweed, venison and native oysters, which have been reintroduced to the Welsh coast through a triumphant restoration project. What makes it a truly exceptional experience is the infectious enthusiasm with which sommelier Cathryn Bell and the team lead guests through the menu, telling personal stories and highlighting the importance of everyone involved in making each dish come to life. Which room to book? There are just 13 rooms in the main house, each adorned with warm, natural tones. Elegant individual quirks include freestanding lamps, four-poster beds with wraparound curtains, and exposed beams for those nestled into the eaves. For an extra treat, suites in the Herb Cottages outbuildings offer a little more space to relax, along with log burner and private garden. Most rooms come with freestanding bath, robes and slippers for the ultimate off-grid getaway. What’s for breakfast? Maintaining the focus on local produce, the two-course breakfast menu starts with lighter options such as yogurt and granola, charcuterie or fruit, followed by cooked dishes including a full Welsh breakfast, eggs benedict or french toast. Anything else? Add-on experiences include foraging and wild swimming for the adventurous, or a nearby vineyard tour for tastings of Welsh wines.

PHOTOGRAPHS: PHIL BOORMAN, THOMAS BOWN

Rooms start from £192 per night. grovenarberth.co.uk

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Why I love

the Julian Alps David Žefran, head chef of twoMichelin-starred Milka in Slovenia, shares what makes the cuisine of his mountainous home region so special

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PHOTOGRAPH: JOŠT GANTAR/SLOVENIA.INFO

By DAVID ŽEFRAN


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Walnuts are everywhere

Austro-Hungarian influence

Agrarian culture

The beautiful thing about culture and cuisine is it can’t be contained. Slovenian produce and traditions are intertwined with those from neighbouring countries across the region – Italian snails and Austrian strawberry farms, for example, might be the closest to us to source.

The Austro-Hungarian empire left its mark on Slovenian cuisine – think Hungarian goulash with polenta, fluffy shredded kaiserschmarrn and potato dumplings, or knödels, filled with apricot or plum. Family-run gostilnas still serve this style of food, preserving the heritage.

We are lucky to have walnut trees all over the region and we use the crop in everything from liqueurs to breads and sweet treats. They are rolled with buckwheat dough and soured cream into štruklji dumplings or baked into sweet dough to create potica for special occasions.

The region is rooted in agricultural practices so we have many hearty mountain dishes to sustain through the winter – kranjska klobasa sausages with fermented cabbage, ričet barley stew and jota, a sauerkraut and bean stew.

Freshwater fish Otoman legacy

The Ottomans brought with them a love of grilled meats and fried breads. A popular dish still on many menus in the area is čevapčiči – small Bosnian-style shish kebabs in a grilled lepinja bread pocket topped with kaymak cheese that slowly melts into the bread, often served with roasted peppers.

Our lakes and rivers are abundant with freshwater seafood, from the Drava’s crayfish to the Soča river’s trout and Lake Bohinj’s char. We often eat this fresh and grilled with seasonal vegetables and salads.

Wild game

We have a responsibility to adapt to our environment, for example during venison hunting season we enjoy everything from venison stew with mash and lingonberry jam to deer heart ragu. I also use game meat in elevated dishes such as wild boar ’nduja and beetroot with bear fat sauce.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, JOŠT GANTAR/SLOVENIA.INFO, MICHELLE WESTMORLAND/CORBIS DOCUMENTARY/GETTY, YATING KUO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Cross-alpine culture


Forest floor foraging

Foraging is part of life here. We forage frequently from the forest floor and mountain ridges. Yields include an eclectic variety of wild herbs, spruce tips, pine cones and ramsons, often dried into Julian Alps tea. Families forage blueberries to create their own unique desserts, for example traditional sweet omelette, pohorska omleta, filled with fresh berries and wild blueberry jam.

Eco-conscious culture

Slovenia is a green country with sustainability deeply embedded into its customs. Many of us have gardens where we grow mostly organic produce, harvesting only what we need. There is something special about picking something fresh and cooking it immediately.

Wine harvest celebrations

Slovenia has a rich wine culture and Martinovanje, or St Martin’s Day, is one of our most joyful traditions. After the grapes are pressed and fermentation begins we celebrate with roast duck or goat with red cabbage and mlinci – crispy flatbread softened by pouring beef broth over the top.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: JORDAN GUGLIELMI, CLAUDIO PARADA NUNEZ

“Foraging is part of life here. We forag fequently fom the forest floor and montain ridgs. Yields include an eclectic variety of wild herbs, spruc tips, pine cones and ramsons”

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WHERE TO STAY This striking eco retreat stands majestically above Slovenia’s largest lake, its larch wood structure designed to imitate the mountainous backdrop. There’s a distinct alpine feel, complete with roaring fireplace, animal hides and traditional ski equipment in the lobby, while the expansive lake-view lawn is scattered with blanket-covered chairs for huddling around firepits well into the night. Floor-to-ceiling windows fill the all-day restaurant with light, or opt for a spot on the terrace with dramatic views in all directions. Contemporary twists on local fare take centre stage – buckwheat flour dumplings with sweet pumpkin purée, Bohinj trout with cauliflower, and upstream flander with pea purée – while pungent local mohant cheese is whipped into the must-order tangy cheesecake. Wines by the glass include Slovenia’s renowned sparkling istenič prestige, the Istrian peninsula’s malvazija and a fruity red from the Vipava Valley. Rooms are simple larch-lined cocoons with pops of alpine chic to add character – craggy peak-shaped lights carved into headboards, the hotel’s mountain hiker motif embossed into cushions and fur throws on bucket seats from which you can gaze out over the lake. Each night includes two hours in the spa, complete with saunas, salt room and outdoor whirlpool to soak up mountain views. Walnuts, dried fruits and regional herbal teas are strategically placed at the end of a ‘natural floor’ corridor, over which guests are encouraged to walk barefoot for grounding. The buffet breakfast is a selection of cold cuts, cheeses and yogurts from local cooperatives as well as seasonal fruits, homemade smoothies and eggs any-style on freshly baked toast. hotelbohinj.si

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Boutique Hotel Milka, Kranjska Gora

Perched on the edge of Lake Jasna in the heart of the Julian Alps, this elegantly restored restaurant with rooms was built in the 1960s as a trattoria for passersby. The dramatic landscape is reflected in the building’s Slovene limestone, burnt larch wood façade and even plates made from the lake’s stone. Slovenian chef David Žefran is at the helm of the two-Michelin-starred restaurant, foraging forest ingredients to create a tasting menu featuring the likes of fermented potato dumplings filled with deer heart ragu and creamy spelt, Tolminc mountain cheese and unctuous snails glazed in fermented ramson gremolata. Nightcaps on the lakeside terrace are crafted from homemade liqueurs – blackberry, quince, spruce and even chanterelle – and local spirits including Karakter gin distilled with handpicked mountain botanicals. Spacious rooms offer minimalist alpine furnishings, baths with views of the forest and clever window contraptions that turn into sun-filled balconies. Small details make your stay extra special – eco Kaaita slippers to take home, Julian Alps herbal tea to sip in specially designed cups, and toiletries made by Slovenian sisters from mint, tea tree and lemon balm. Breakfast is an intricately presented selection of cold cuts (deer and bear salami, pork bresaola), seasonal fruit in Batak pepper and cherry blossom dressing, kohlrabi salad dressed with jalapeño, and ricotta cake with PX raisin compote. Slices of walnut-studded buckwheat bread are coated in mountain honey, apricot jam or zaseka pork spread to set you up for a day exploring the mountains. hotelmilka.si

PHOTOGRAPHS: ŽIGA INTIHAR, ALEX CROSSLEY

Hotel Bohinj, Bohinj


WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Pino Alpino

Spilling out onto a paved square in the shadows of Kranjska Gora’s peachy church, this restaurant and wine bar specialises in regional dishes. Think dry-aged trout in ponzu, ravioli with tepka pear, aged cow’s cheese, warming long pepper and candied walnuts, and handmade plum dumplings with a scattering of crumble for dessert. A handy illustrated map highlights where the selection of wines come from. pinoalpino.com

Majer’ca

It’s all about the mountain backdrop at this elegant restaurant with rooms in Bohinj. Whether cocooned in an armchair inside or huddled under a blanket on the terrace, it’s a great spot for contemporary alpine feels. Elevated mountain cuisine is served as part of a three-, four- or five-course menu with the likes of pressed potatoes topped with herb-flecked cottage cheese followed by Bohinj trout, black olives and lemon, and seasonal rice pudding made with cream from local cows. majerca.si

Sirarna Pr’ Prangarčk

Cycle through the hamlet of Brod and stop by Angela’s familyowned dairy – young calves stay cosy in the stables on site while the herd of Swiss brown cattle are free to roam up in the mountains. The pint-sized shop sells parfaits, creamy yogurts with blueberry compote and a range of cheeses from fresh to aged and spiced varieties. Plus, beef salami, kohlrabi and homemade apple juice for a Slovenianstyle picnic. bohinj.si

Lačni Kekec

Nestled at the foot of Kranjska Gora ski lift (Slovenia’s first), this sprawling restaurant of alpine huts and terraces is a popular winter destination. The extensive menu of hearty dishes covers appetisers such as dolma with tzatziki and cottage cheese štruklji, pork knuckle and veal simmering with potatoes in traditional sac ovens and grilled čevapčiči sausages stuffed into flatbread pockets with melting kajmak cheese, best paired with roasted peppers and homemade ajvar. Comforting desserts include homemade strudel, walnut štruklji and pancakes with jam. lacni-kekec.si Head to olivemagazine.com for our full guide to the Slovenian capital Ljubljana.

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ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: NARVIKK/ISTOCK UNRELEASED, ALEXANDER SPATARI/MOMENT/GETTY


Cook like a local

VIENNA

Explore the quiet grandeur of a city where baking has been turned into an art form Words and recipes BERNADETTE WÖRNDL Photographs MELINA KUTELAS

V

ienna is a city that moves at the pace of good cooking: slowly, deliberately, with the quiet confidence that things improve when you give them time. Early in the morning, soft light settles on the façades and the trams begin their gentle hum, and you can feel the city easing into the day rather than rushing towards it. Between grand old buildings and tucked-away courtyards, cafés, bakeries and wine shops open like small invitations – to sit, to taste, to linger. Vienna reveals itself the way a dough rises: gently, and only if you pay attention. Its food culture is rooted in care – simple ingredients treated thoughtfully, flavours that whisper instead of shout. When I think of Vienna, I think of the bitter warmth of freshly brewed coffee, the soft sweetness of melting chocolate, and how both scents anchor a kitchen before anything has even begun. And then there is the 16th district – Ottakring – where the air itself tells a story. On certain days the city smells unmistakably of beer and chocolate, a strange and perfect pairing drifting from

the Ottakringer Brewery and the Manner factory. To me, that scent – unexpected, comforting, completely unpretentious – is Vienna. And always, the wind: that steady Viennese breeze that moves through the streets and over the rooftops, tugging gently at your coat and your mood. It carries a trace of melancholy – the good kind, the kind that makes you look up and breathe a little deeper. Everyday baking is part of the city’s soul: the crisp semmel, still warm when you split it open; the mürbes kipferl, simple yet deeply nostalgic; the bright pink punschkrapferl; and krapfen, soft and powdered, appearing each winter as a small promise of joy. Seasonality here is instinctual. Apricots become dumplings eaten for dinner. Plums turn into zwetschkenfleck for long afternoons. Apfelstrudel dough is stretched thin enough to read through – proof that patience is Vienna’s quiet superpower. In the cafés, time stretches; at the markets, the city beats louder. Tradition is a well-worn apron – comforting, practical, open to change. To cook like a local is to follow Vienna’s rhythm: slow down, trust your senses and let the city unfold its warmth bite by bite.

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Sachertorte The original sachertorte recipe is still a secret today. But there are lots of recipes based on the original, including this one. SERVES 8-10 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | MORE EFFORT CAKE MIX 140g butter, softened, plus extra for the tin 140g dark chocolate 40g icing sugar 7 eggs, room temperature 160g caster sugar 140g plain flour 20g cocoa powder TO ASSEMBLE 200g apricot jam, strained 200g caster sugar 150g dark chocolate whipped cream, to serve

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Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 4. Lightly butter a 24cm springform tin and line the bottom and sides with baking paper. Roughly chop the chocolate and melt it in a metal bowl over a pan of hot water. Leave to cool slightly. Meanwhile, cream the butter and icing sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer for 8 mins until light and fluffy. Separate the eggs and stir the yolks into the butter mixture, one after the other. Gradually mix in the melted dark chocolate and stir. You should have a very light and airy mixture. Whisk the egg whites, caster sugar and a pinch of salt in a scrupulously clean bowl until holding soft (but not stiff ) peaks. Carefully fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture in three stages. Sift the flour and cocoa powder into a bowl, then fold these in too. Transfer the mixture to the prepared tin and bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 50 mins or until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. Remove the cake from the oven and leave to cool for 20 mins in the tin. Release from the tin, remove the baking paper, turn the cake over and leave to cool completely on a wire rack. Once cool, slice in half horizontally. To assemble, spread a generous layer of jam over the cut surface of the bottom cake layer. Put the second layer on top, cut-surface down. Cover the top and sides of the cake with jam. Chill for at least 1 hr.


Put the caster sugar and 125g of water in a pan, and boil vigorously for 5 mins, then leave to cool briefly. Roughly chop the chocolate, gradually add to the warm sugar syrup and stir everything together to make a thick glaze. Pour the entire lukewarm glaze over the cake and quickly spread it over the top and sides with an angled palette knife. Leave to set for 1-2 hrs, then serve with softly whipped cream.

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Kaiserschmarren Like many other legends, we will probably never know the true story of how kaiserschmarren (emperor’s shredded pancakes) got their name. Some say it was because Kaiser Franz Joseph I was served a similar rustic dish with particularly fine ingredients, others say the recipe was originally created for his wife, Elisabeth (Sisi), and that the kaiser had them named after himself because he found them so delicious. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS SOAKING | COOK 15 MINS | EASY PANCAKE BATTER 40g raisins 1 tsp dark rum 4 eggs, room temperature 120g plain flour 250g milk 1 tbsp vanilla sugar 80g caster sugar 50g butter TO SERVE icing sugar, for dusting

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Soak the raisins in the rum, ideally overnight, or for at least 2 hrs. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Separate the eggs. Use a balloon whisk to combine the flour, milk, vanilla sugar and a pinch of salt in a bowl until smooth. Add the egg yolks and whisk again until smooth. Whisk the egg whites with 50g of the caster sugar in a scrupulously clean bowl until you have creamy stiff peaks, then gently fold into the batter. Drain the raisins and squeeze out some of the liquid if necessary. Heat the butter in a large, ovenproof pan or flat roasting dish, pour in the batter and sprinkle with the ruminfused raisins. Bake on the lowest oven shelf for 8-10 mins. Use a spatula to split the pancake into four, then turn each quarter over and continue cooking in the oven for 3 mins or until done. Using two forks, tear the pancakes into uneven pieces, sprinkle with the remaining 30g of caster sugar, then caramelise in the oven or on the stove. Arrange the shredded pancakes on plates and dust with icing sugar to serve.


Marmorgugelhupf This renowned marble bundt cake is an indispensable accompaniment for afternoon coffee in Vienna. Kaiser Franz Joseph I would have heartily agreed. He was a huge fan of bundt cakes and even had this exquisite cake served for breakfast. SERVES 8-10 | PREP 25 MINS | COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | EASY CAKE MIXTURE 200g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the tin 230g plain flour, plus extra for the tin 200g icing sugar, plus extra for dusting 8 eggs, room temperature 200g caster sugar 20g cocoa powder 35g milk ½ orange, zested Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 4. Butter a 25cm bundt tin generously with butter and dust with flour. Cream the butter and icing sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer for 5 mins. Separate the eggs. Gradually stir the yolks into the butter and sugar mixture. Whisk the egg whites with the caster sugar and a pinch of salt in a scrupulously clean bowl until holding soft peaks. Sift the flour twice into a bowl, then fold it into the butter and egg yolk mixture. Carefully fold in the egg whites. Weigh half of the mixture (about 500g) into a separate bowl. Stir together the cocoa and milk in a small bowl until smooth, then fold this mixture along with the orange zest into one half of the cake mixture. Scoop alternating spoonfuls of the two cake mixtures into the bundt tin. Then draw a wooden skewer through the mixture in circular movements to create the typical marbled effect. Bake on the lowest oven shelf for 1 hr-1 hr 10 mins until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. If the cake starts to brown too much, cover the surface with foil until done. Let the cake cool in the tin for 30 mins, then remove from the tin to cool completely. Dust the bundt cake with icing sugar to serve.

Recipes extracted from Viennese Bakery: Classic Cakes and Bakes from Vienna’s Café Culture by Bernadette Wörndl, out 26 February (£20, DK). Photographs: Melina Kutelas. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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SPOTLIGHT ON

KENT

Taste your way through this south-eastern county where farm-fresh produce meets coastal flavours

PHOTOGRAPHS: ASH BRITTEN, JAKE EASTHAM, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, SALTWICK

Words ROSIE BIRKETT

Clockwise from top left: exterior of The Pig at Bridge Place; views across the white cliffs of Dover; fine dining at Tallow; Molly Henshaw at Gilda Bakery

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ANGELA’S, MARGATE Few restaurants in the UK are as focused on respecting the planet and supply chain as this small seafood restaurant with rooms on the Kent coast, sister to Dory’s, a raw bar and wine shop overlooking the beach. Working with local fishermen, producers and its own cooperative farm for fruit and veg, this place is doing its darndest to remove plastic from its business, while providing a sumptuous, seafood-centric dining experience. Upstairs you can book a beautiful room to spend the night, enjoying all the same eco-conscious design displayed in the restaurant with its recycled plastic furniture, and downstairs feast on such fishy delights as poached oysters with trout roe, and monkfish with fennel and bisque. angelasofmargate.com

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PHOTOGRAPHS: SALTWICK, JAKE EASTHAM

Working wih local fishermen, proucers and is own farm for fruit and veg, Angela’s is doing is darndest to remove plastic from is business

TALLOW, SOUTHBOROUGH Bold, comforting flavours and classical cookery with a generous grating of creativity is the MO at Tallow, a sleek, family-run restaurant near Tunbridge Wells. With previous experience at the much-loved Compasses Inn in Crundale, married owners Robert and Donna Taylor know hospitality, and, whether you’re sitting upstairs at the intimate eight-seat chef ’s table watching Rob at work or downstairs in the main dining room, Donna and her team will make you feel very well looked after. Swoon over indulgent, seasonal dishes like lobster arancini with pickled cucumber, or roast loin of venison with preserved cherries and celeriac. tallowrestaurant.co.uk


THE PIG AT BRIDGE PLACE, BRIDGE In verdant countryside just outside of the village of Bridge (less than an hour from London) is The Pig group’s Kentish outpost: a historic, stately red brick house with a debaucherous past as a rock venue that hosted bands including Led Zeppelin and The Kinks. Its colourful history plays into its present-day charm – a quirky, labyrinthine hotel with plushly decorated bedrooms, beautifully restored period features and quirky nooks. An impressive kitchen garden forms the backbone of the restaurant’s 25-mile menu, with delights including kitchen garden fritters with herb mayo, or tamworth pork collar with ‘0 mile’ mushrooms and mustard sauce, plus wood-fired pizzas from the outdoor kitchen. thepighotel.com

THE COOK’S TALE, CANTERBURY Endorsed by legendary Indian chef Cyrus Todiwala, who’s previously collaborated with its award-winning chef Dev Biswal, this restaurant close to the cathedral offers guests a fascinating journey into the cuisine of Odisha in eastern India. Drawing on Dev’s heritage, the menu presents delicious modern interpretations of his home region’s staples (think fish cooked in banana leaf, delicately spiced lentil and rice dishes, a fondness for yogurt) alongside more familiar dishes. Opting for one of his famous thalis is a good start: I love the mackerel curry and soft shell crab. Cookery classes and immersive food trips to Odisha are another part of Dev’s drive to share his love of his culinary heritage from this corner of Kent. thecookstale.co.uk

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The Goods Shed has a distinctive menu drawing on the top tier produce of the farmer’s market, butchery and fishmonger

THE BLUE PELICAN, DEAL This Japanese small plates restaurant from the visionary couple behind Deal’s lauded food-led boutique hotel The Rose occupies a Georgian townhouse overlooking the sea, and its jewel box, chequerboard-floored dining room is one of the best places to eat in Deal. Chef Luke Green, who manned the stove at The Rose before opening this, cooked in Japan for years and his unique, utterly mesmerising menu nods to Japanese izakaya and robata traditions: think umami-rich broths crowned by rustling tempura mushrooms, juicy pork katsu with bitter leaves and sesame dressing, or seared squid with Tokyo turnips and pomelo. thebluepelican.co.uk

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THE GOODS SHED, CANTERBURY It’s impossible to visit this local food haven without leaving with an enviable haul of some of Kent’s finest local, seasonal and artisanal produce. And while this historic railway freight storage shed is more than a restaurant, with a distinctive menu drawing on the top tier produce of the farmer’s market, butchery, fishmonger, and cheese and charcuterie producers under its vaulted roof, this place is a favourite haunt for a delicious lunch or twinkly dinner. Imagine plates of venison scrumpets with pickled walnut, Wigmore cheese with celery, apple and lovage, and roast pork shoulder with celeriac, purple sprouting broccoli and anchoïde. Also hit Wild Goose for hedgerow-inspired cocktails and tasty small plates, beautifully imagined by talented local chef Lucy Varley. thegoodsshed.co.uk


FORDWICH ARMS, FORDWICH This Michelin-starred restaurant, set in a rambling old pub in Fordwich – Britain’s smallest town – ranks among the county’s most consistent and exciting culinary players. Married owners chef Daniel Smith and pastry chef Natasha, who between them have worked at The Clove Club and Chapter One, craft menus that balance comfort with creativity. Expect chicken liver parfait with local ice cider and warm doughnuts, or south coast turbot with swede, monk’s beard and vin jaune sauce. Choose from tasting or à la carte menus (from £85), then linger on the sunny, wisteria-draped terrace overlooking the River Stour. fordwicharms.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS: SETH CARNILL, JOHN BLACKWELL, PETER CLARK, SALLY GURTEEN

Pristine Kent produce defines the five- and eight-corse tasting menus where classical flavor pairings are energised wih modern twists HIDE AND FOX, SALTWOOD Head to Hide and Fox in Saltwood, Hythe – Kent’s only two Michelin starred restaurant – for gastronomic tasting menus of precisely cooked, inventively crafted dishes. Chef-owner Allister Barsby has returned to his Kentish roots after many illustrious years cheffing all around and, together with sommelier wife Alice Bussi, the couple are creating something special in a charming former village shop. Pristine Kent produce defines the five- and eight-course tasting menus where classical flavour pairings are energised with modern twists in dishes like Longland duck with plum tart, cabbage and szechuan pepper, and native lobster with veal sweetbreads, salted lemon and lemon verbena. hideandfox.co.uk

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THE SPORTSMAN, SEASALTER Having opened in 1999 and won a Michelin star for his cooking nine years later, Stephen Harris’s legendary pub on the Seasalter seawall is renowned for retaining the spirit of a no-nonsense inn while serving up gourmet tasting menus that make you weak at the knees. He and partner Emma Read conjure a very special atmosphere in the dining room, overlooking the wild, surrounding marshland, and the kitchen’s remit celebrates the Kentish terroir, Stephen going as far as to use foraged seaweed and sea salt for his famous slip sole in seaweed butter. The food is pure pleasure and with a midweek tasting menu on offer for £55 you’d be hard-pressed to find a more memorable or bettervalue lunch option in Kent. thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk

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Yo can watch the bakers chatting and crafting laminated pastries and oganic sourdoughs GILDA BAKERY, BISHOPSBOURNE So named after founder Jon Warren’s love for the sensationally simple Spanish pintxo of anchovy, pickled pepper and green olive, Gilda is an excellent artisan bakery similarly dedicated to the transformation of humble ingredients into something mesmerising. Set in the countryside of Bishopsbourne, near Bridge, you can watch the bakers chatting and crafting laminated pastries and organic sourdoughs as you queue for your bread and cinnamon rolls. gildabakery.com


PHOTOGRAPH: WILLIAM BUNCE

Squint and it’s giving moe Sicily than Thanet vibes

SARGASSO, MARGATE Sargasso has become one of the most sought-after places to nab a table in Margate’s increasingly exciting food scene, preferably outside and overlooking the harbour at sunset. With a glass of lively natural wine from the extensive list, and a plate of salt cod fritters and aïoli, squint and it’s giving more Sicily than Thanet vibes. That’s down to the laserfocussed sourcing of owners Ed Wilson and Josie Stead, known for their lauded restaurant Brawn in east London, where interesting low-intervention wines and plates of impeccably procured ingredients sing. Here chef William Gleave (previously of Bright and P Franco) executes a menu that hones in on fish and seafood, with plates like slip sole and seaweed butter, and the iconic squid sandwich in brioche. sargasso.bar

BOTTEGA CARUSO, MARGATE This homely Italian restaurant and deli in Margate’s old town began as a stall slinging handmade pasta at The Goods Shed and is now hailed for serving some of the most authentic Italian food in Kent, if not the UK. We first tipped it in 2017 and we stand by it as a must-visit. Run by chef Simona, from Foglianise near Naples, and her husband Harry Ryder, it’s usually fully booked, so reserve – and arrive hungry. Start at the wine bar next door before indulging in polpette di pane al sugo, spaghetti con cozze e zucchine and other shareable plates, then stock up on mozzarella and pasta from the deli. bottegacaruso.com

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Culinary cities

Sample some of the world’s best dishes in these UNESCOdesignated Cities of Gastronomy

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Florianópolis takes up most of Brazil’s lush Santa Catarina island, and its food scene has been shaped by everyone from the Carijó indigenous people to the Azoreans who arrived here before reinventing much-loved dishes using local ingredients such as cassava. It’s another destination famous for the diversity of its ingredients, whether it’s honey produced by the island’s stingless bees or oysters plucked from the Atlantic Ocean (hence the city’s moniker, Brazil’s Oyster Capital). Unsurprisingly, seafood appears on almost every menu. As for the dish all visitors should try? Daniela Damasceno, head chef at Ponta dos Ganchos, a contemporary Florianópolis restaurant, suggests caldeirada. “It’s a seafood stew which perfectly sums up the city’s gastronomy, and features crucial elements of local cuisine – shrimp, squid, octopus, shellfish and oysters.” When it comes to hotels, consider checking in at the sleek LK Design Hotel – the star of the show is Osli, its fine dining seafood restaurant, and the most popular dish is the grilled octopus with smoked almonds.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, CHRISTINE BAGLOW, ENDRE KNUDSEN/VISIT NORWAY, VISIT BERGEN, IDA SKEIE/CORNELIUS RESTAURANT

FLORIANÓPOLIS, BRAZIL


BERGEN, NORWAY Bergen’s reputation for gastronomic greatness dates back thousands of years. A city surrounded by the sea, fjords and mountains dotted with fertile pastures, food was never in short supply here. UNESCO was particularly impressed by the passion for championing techniques which have been around since the Viking age – smoking and curing fish as a method of preservation is a great example. Mussels, scallops, crabs and prawns are in abundance, and one of the city’s oldest (and most popular) dishes is persetorsk – a delicacy of cod cured using salt and sugar. A reminder of the diversity of Bergen’s cuisine is its three Michelin-starred restaurants – Lysverket, Gaptrast and Omakase by Sergey Pak, which specialise in Norwegian, seasonal and Japanese cuisine respectively. Planning a visit? September is when the brilliant Bergen Matfestival food festival takes place.

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Heraklion is the largest city on Crete – an island famous for cuisine steeped in history and rooted in simplicity, and both of these aspects were key to its UNESCO City of Gastronomy designation. This is a place with 30 million olive trees and where fruits grown in its fertile soils include bananas, oranges, figs and pomegranates. So which dishes should be on visitors’ radars? Topping the list is Cretan graviera, a bright yellow cheese with a spicy flavour, followed by antikristo, meat cooked over an open fire. When it comes to the city’s best restaurants, Peskesi is famous for its dolmadakia (grape leaves stuffed with minced meat) and olive oil (including an olive oil tasting experience), while Kafeneio O Tempelis serves up wallet-friendly tapas made with seasonal ingredients. Don’t skip the city’s gorgeous cafés, either. The coffee at Koudoumas is legendary, and owner and coffee connoisseur Konstantinos Kostas Koudoumas is on hand to help visitors find their perfect roast.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: MUNICIPALITY OF HERAKLION, ANGELO CAVALLI/ROBERT HARDING, KISZON PASCAL/MOMENT, OLEH SLOBODENIUK/E+/GETTY

HERAKLION, GREECE


PHUKET, THAILAND The island of Phuket in southern Thailand is known for its fusion of Chinese, Thai, Muslim and Indian cuisines. In 2019, the Michelin Guide included Phuket for the first time, and several fine dining restaurants have opened here in the past few years. The UNESCO City of Gastronomy designation came in 2015, awarded not only for Phuket’s gastronomic diversity but the training opportunities for young local chefs (there are plans to open an Institute of Phuket Gastronomy) and the passion for sustainability. Restaurants to know include Pru, helmed by Dutch chef Jimmy Ophorst and famous for its tasting menu packed with seasonal, local ingredients. Recently, a number of cooking schools have sprung up. One of the best is at Blue Elephant, a fine dining restaurant and cookery school inside a heritage mansion. Alternatively, consider a food-themed exploration of the city to learn more – book with Secret Food Tours and you’ll sample 10 dishes over three hours. Highlights include the slow-cooked pork belly and the crab curry.

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READER OFFER

Stay in one of Rick Stein’s luxury shepherd’s huts near Padstow Book yourself a cosy stay near the Cornish coast and enjoy a tranquil escape with curated food options From

Surrounded by woodland and nestled on the peaceful grounds of Rick Stein’s pub near Padstow, The Cornish Arms, are six per person for wooden shepherd’s huts, perfect for a cosy 2-night stay couple of nights by the sea. The huts offer a tranquil countryside escape, especially out of season, within easy reach of some of Cornwall’s best restaurants, beaches and coastal walks. Each shepherd’s hut has a bright living and dining area, an en-suite shower room, a kitchenette and a private patio. With underfloor heating and a cosy double bed with beautifully crisp linen, you can be certain of a snug night’s sleep. As you’d expect from a Rick Stein getaway, food will be at the heart of your stay – this offer includes breakfast both mornings and a complimentary bottle of Rick Stein wine. You’ll also be treated to a three-course dinner at The Cornish Arms, where you can enjoy British pub classics like fish and chips, curries and burgers. You’ll also be just five minutes from some of the county’s best beaches, like Harlyn and Constantine, for a sunrise swim or to watch the surfers.

£274.50

WHAT’S INCLUDED • Two-night stay in a luxury shepherd’s hut for two • A three-course meal for two on one night at The Cornish Arms (one-minute walk from the huts) • A signed copy of Rick Stein’s Food Stories book STAYS FROM 5 FEBRUARY-2 APRIL 2026 FROM £274.50 • Breakfast one morning at The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow and one morning a Shepherd’s Hut breakfast box • Cod and chips from Stein’s Fish and Chips • A bottle of Rick Stein’s white wine on arrival STAYS FROM 3 APRIL-31 OCTOBER 2026 FROM £292.50 • Breakfast both mornings in The Cornish Arms • A bottle of Rick Stein Château Bauduc rosé wine on arrival • A Stein’s Deli beach picnic, including olives, prawns, charcuterie, salad and more, to enjoy on the beach

To book call 03301 624 924 and quote ‘olive’ or, for more information, visit olive.tripsmiths.com/stein TERMS AND CONDITIONS *From price is per person, based on two people sharing a hut for a two-night stay, subject to availability. Blackout dates may apply. Single occupancy is available at a reduction of £21 per night. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Full payment is taken 21 days prior to arrival. 14 days’ notice prior to arrival is required in the event of a date amendment or cancellation. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used may not reflect your actual experience. Offer is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of Seafood Trading Ltd.

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BOUCHON RACINE Henry Harris reopened Bouchon Racine in Clerkenwell in 2022. The menu changes daily but always celebrates Lyon – a city I’ve wandered through many times, and regarded as France’s gastronomy capital. Cosy, buzzing and authentically French, I can’t resist the duck confit or slow-cooked rabbit with mustard sauce and lardons. Save room for crème caramel with armagnac-soaked prune. bouchonracine.com BRUTTO Founded by my late friend Russell Norman, Brutto represents the ultimate Florentine trattoria – candlelit tables, red and white checkered cloths, £5 negronis and a welcoming bar where everyone feels at home. Start with the ‘cuddles’ (deep-fried dough balls with stracchino and prosciutto), penne vodka or a colossal sharing steak. Don’t skip the tiramisu, and grab a bottle of chianti for the table. msha.ke/brutto

{MY LONDON}

Clerkenwell Boy’s

PHOTOGRAPHS: CLERKENWELL BOY

CLERKENWELL favourites

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ucked between some of London’s busiest postcodes, Clerkenwell is one of the city’s most quietly magical neighbourhoods, effortlessly cool without ever trying. Its winding streets and handsome industrial buildings still whisper stories of monks, makers and metalworkers, even as old workshops now house contemporary galleries, Michelin-starred restaurants and a truly multicultural food scene.

EXMOUTH MARKET Alive with global street food, boutiques, cafés, bars and pubs, you’ll stumble upon little treasures all along the street. Moro and Morito bring bold North African and southern Spanish flavours, Mikkeller Brewpub pours inventive craft beer, Café Kick is perfect for sports fans and The Exmouth Arms or The Wilmington offer traditional pints. If you’re looking for a special gift, EC One makes bespoke jewellery with ethically sourced materials, hand-crafted in London. exmouth.london THE QUALITY CHOP HOUSE A Victorian gem on Farringdon Road since 1869, this is my go-to for sharing steaks and a solid glass of red. Don’t miss the confit potatoes – layers of potato compressed overnight, then fried to perfection – or seasonal specials. Next door, Quality Wines offers a daily-changing menu in a relaxed wine bar. thequalitychophouse.com SADLER’S WELLS Perfect for a date night – dinner nearby, then a show. The theatre began as a mineral spa and music hall in 1683, and became the base of the Royal Ballet in 1931. There are plenty of restaurants, bars and pubs nearby for a pre-show pint to treat yourself before the curtain rises. sadlerswells.com SESSIONS ARTS CLUB Housed in the former 1779 Middlesex Sessions House, this space is buzzing. The restaurant is in the old judges’ dining room – soaring ceilings and ever-changing art on the walls – thanks to the vision of founder Jonny Gent. Seasonal British dishes are beautifully plated, cocktails brilliant and the wine list thoughtfully curated. Entering feels like crashing an eccentric aristocrat’s house party – a mixture of elegance, humour and warmth. sessionsartsclub.com ST JOHN A London institution near Smithfield Market, St John has championed nose-to-tail dining since 1994 and been Michelin-starred since 2009. Missed a table? The walk-in bar and bakery shine at lunch – try welsh rarebit on sourdough, washed down with a pint of stout. stjohnrestaurant.com

One of the most influential figures in the restaurant industry, Clerkenwell Boy is a restaurant, bar and travel consultant, content creator, entrepreneur and philanthropist. He’s published several books, donating proceeds to charity, and co-founded charity campaigns #CookForSyria, #CookForUkraine and #CookForPalestine.

TERRONI OF CLERKENWELL The capital’s oldest deli (it opened in 1878), this family-run shop serves a huge array of cheese, cured meats and fresh pizza. My essentials: taleggio, burrata, gorgonzola, guanciale and mortadella with pistachio. Join the locals for freshly baked pizza alongside an Aperol spritz or glass of sangiovese. terroni.co.uk 125


WEEKENDER

M a Málaga Málaga insider Milli Taylor shares her favourite local spots

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if you know where to go it’s still brilliant. You cannot eat fresher fish than here. You’ll need to try gambas rojas and razor clams, or any clams really that take your fancy. Málaga is home to the concha fina: a big, juicy clam that is eaten alive with lemon juice. My favourite place for seafood is standing at the bar in the hustle and bustle at Marisqueria El Yerno. Solo diners must try Mesón Mariano I like watching the food come out of the kitchen and the jamón being cut. This place is famous for its artichokes so if they’re in season you must try them. I also love the huevos rotos here. For fancy yet informal, I love Mesón Ibérico This place is really popular with locals so I get there just before the doors open to secure a spot. Service is so swift and friendly, and it’s a beautiful bar to sit in. As soon as you sit down you’re given a few slices of salchichón de bellota while you look at the menu. My top tip would be to order the bacalao al pil pil. If you order the fabada asturiana, they’ll tell you it comes from a tin, but it’s exceptional – after just one day in Málaga you’ll be embracing all food from tins.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, ANA ROCIO GARCIA FRANCO/MOMENT/GETTY, ALEX CROSSLEY

Eat breakfast at Churrería de Malagueña I like to get into the city early for coffee and churros. Everyone will tell you to go to Casa Aranda and – don’t get me wrong – both places do great churros (also called porras or tejeringos) but I prefer the chewy texture at Malagueña, and the chocolate is far superior. While Casa Aranda is fun and fast-paced, it’s very touristy, and I find Malagueña a more chilled-out local spot, perched up on the bar watching the waiters move around each other like dancers. Sample local wine at Antigua Casa de Guardia It’s the oldest wine bar in Málaga, and really feels like not much has changed there since it opened in 1840. I wouldn’t order food, other than a couple of banderillas to whet the appetite, but standing at the bar tasting sweet Màlaga wines from the barrel for a couple of euros a pop really roots you in a good time and place. In the summer this place is heaving but the service is quick and the glasses small, so it’s worth waiting for your spot. When you’re done they chalk up your bill on the counter and you’ll feel ready to head out and eat.

After lunch, try ice cream at Casa Mira – an institution There are a couple of spots: go to the one on Calle Larios for all the slamming lids and drama, or the smaller one by the cathedral if you want to sit outside in a quieter spot. The local ice cream is almond and pedro ximénez soaked raisins – it really does taste like Málaga in a mouthful. No trip to Málaga is complete without eating espetos on the beach These sardines are skewered on a cane and slow-roasted over wood fires right in the sand. It’s a tradition that goes back more than a century, originally created by fishermen cooking their catch on the shore. Today you’ll find the little boats-turnedfirepits lined up along the coastline. You can smell them before you see them: olivewood smoke, charred skin and sea salt. My favourite dessert is from a restaurant called La Cosmo It’s the corn flan with corn praline that is so iconic they cannot take it off the menu. If you ask nicely and they’re not busy they’ll let you in just to eat dessert.

Head to Atarazanas Market for seafood The market is a joy for the senses and to walk around. It’s divided into fresh produce, meat and fish. It’s become a little touristy but

Milli Taylor is a cook and writer who opened her own cafés before running a catering company for 10 years and later serving as head of food at Ottolenghi. She shares recipes and travel guides on her Substack, When in Rome, and hosts food retreats from her family home in Málaga. ranchoretreat.co.uk 127


EASY SEASONAL NOURISHMENT

Vibrant, nutrient-rich recipes that go big on flavour Recipes JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

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Traybake mushroom udon, p130

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Traybake mushroom udon

Sweet and salty date power balls

SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY

MAKES 16-18 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 2 MINS | EASY

1 tbsp olive oil 200g chantenay carrots, quartered lengthways 500g mixed mushrooms, roughly torn (we used a combination of button, chestnut, oyster, shiitake, enoki and brown beech) bunch of spring onions, whites and greens separated 120g baby spinach 300g straight-to-wok udon noodles SAUCE 1 tbsp white miso paste 2 tbsp peanut butter 2 tsp soy sauce 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp rice vinegar 1 large garlic clove, grated 1 tsp crispy chilli oil, plus more to serve (optional)

12 medjool dates, pitted 120g crunchy peanut butter 125g vanilla protein powder 80g chia seeds 125g porridge oats 75g salted crunchy corn, roughly chopped 50g 85% cocoa dark chocolate, chopped into small pieces

Cut the whites of the spring onions into 3-4cm pieces and thinly slice the tops. Add the whites to the tray with the carrots and mushrooms, and give everything a good mix. Cook for 5 mins. Meanwhile, combine the sauce ingredients with 250ml of boiling water. Add the spinach and noodles to the tray, and pour over the sauce. Return to the oven for 5 mins until the spinach has wilted and the noodles are warmed through. Give everything a good mix, then divide between two bowls. Spoon over any remaining liquid from the tray and sprinkle over the spring onion tops. Serve with more chilli oil, if you like. PER SERVING 477 kcals • fat 15G • saturates 3G carbs 58G • sugars 18G • fibre 10G • protein 22G • salt 2.5G

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Blitz the dates in a food processor along with the peanut butter, protein powder and chia seeds until combined, adding the reserved soaking liquid 1 tbsp at a time to help with the blending – you may not need all the water, you’re aiming for a mixture that sticks together when pressed. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir in the oats and most of the salted corn. Mix until evenly distributed, then squeeze and scrunch with your hands. You may need a little more water to help it come together. Wet your hands and portion the mixture into 16-18 balls – keeping your hands wet will make handling the sticky mixture much easier. Put the balls on a lined baking sheet and chill in the fridge while you melt the chocolate. Once melted, drizzle evenly over the balls and sprinkle with the remaining chopped salted corn. Set in the fridge for 5-10 mins, then transfer to an airtight container lined with some baking paper and kitchen paper – this helps to absorb excess moisture and keeps the corn crisper for longer. Will keep in the fridge for up to 10 days. PER SERVING (18) 165 kcals • fat 6G • saturates 2G carbs 17G • sugars 8G • fibre 3G • protein 8G • salt 0.2G

Tips

Tips

Try serving the noodles with a jammy boiled egg for an extra hit of protein.

After a few days the corn will soften and become chewier rather than crisp but they still taste amazing. Be sure to use a plant-based protein powder if you want to make these power balls vegan.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: JESSICA MARIGLIANO-BARRY

Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Combine the oil with the carrots and mushrooms, and spread across a large, lined baking tray that’s at least 3cm deep. Season with a pinch of sea salt flakes and cook for 15 mins.

Put the dates in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to soak for 5 mins. Reserve and set aside 2-3 tbsp of the soaking liquid, then drain the dates.


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Tahini tofu veg bowl with sesame lime dressing SERVES 3 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 500g sweet potatoes, cut into 2cm chunks 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp baharat 290g silken tofu (drained weight) 2 tbsp tahini 1 large garlic clove, grated 1 tsp soy sauce 1 lime, zested and juiced 2 tbsp sesame oil 1 tsp honey or maple syrup 60g kale, large stalks removed and leaves roughly torn 250g cooked beetroot, cut into wedges 150g carrots, coarsely grated 3 tbsp toasted black sesame seeds Heat the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9. Combine the sweet potatoes with the oil and baharat, and season. Spread in an even layer on a lined baking tray and roast for 25-30 mins, turning halfway. In a small blender, blitz together the tofu, tahini, garlic, soy and lime zest until smooth. Combine the sesame oil, honey and 2 tsp of lime juice in a small jar with a pinch or salt. Shake to combine. Put the kale leaves in a bowl and sprinkle over a pinch of sea salt flakes. Massage the kale, squeezing and scrunching the leaves for a couple of minutes to tenderise. When the sweet potato is tender and starting to char you can assemble the lunch bowls. Divide the whipped tofu between three bowls or lunch boxes, spreading in an even layer. Top each with a third of the sweet potato, kale, beetroot and carrot. When you’re ready to eat, drizzle over the lime dressing and scatter over the sesame seeds. PER SERVING 493 kcals • fat 23G • saturates 3G carbs 52G • sugars 24G • fibre 11G • protein 14G • salt 0.7G

Tips Toast the sesame seeds yourself while the oven is on for the sweet potatoes. They should only take around 10 minutes until crisp and fragrant.

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Is sleep overrated? Whether due to work, parenthood or preference, many people sleep far less than the norm. We interviewed three short sleepers to learn how they get by while the rest of the world slumbers Words PETE WISE

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PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

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magine sleeping for just four hours per night. Humans usually require seven to nine hours for optimal health and cognitive function, but this isn’t a blanket rule – some groups are better served by different durations, like those recovering from illness (who need to sleep more than they normally would) and younger children (toddlers should be having 11-14 hours). Most people in the UK say they sleep for seven hours per night, and the equivalent figure rises to eight in the US. While this means most of us are getting at least the minimum amount of sleep, it also highlights that millions are sleeping less. In fact, about 4% of us in the UK and 8% in the US claim to sleep for fewer than five hours per night. What leads to sleeping so little and how does this affect health and happiness? We spoke to three people with different reasons for sleeping just four hours a night, and asked sleep expert Dave Gibson, a registered osteopath, hypnotherapist, stress management coach and founder of The Sleep Site, for his advice.


Short-sleeping by choice: “Four hours per night is a rhythm that works for my life and work.” Hailey Rodaer, a marketing director in Reno, Nevada, US, thinks four hours is just right. “It may be strange to say I choose to sleep four hours a night, as it’s seen as unhealthy. But it’s a rhythm that works for my life and work. I naturally wake up around 3.30am – these early, silent periods are my most productive. I’m at my sharpest and complete strategic work before the world wakes up. It started with a difficult product release, when I reduced sleep to meet deadlines, but my body adjusted. I still pay close attention to my health, visit the doctor regularly and engage in a daily workout. My energy levels are consistent but I pay close attention to signs of exhaustion. The largest trade-off is that I need short breaks in the afternoon to reset mentally but the upside is a long period of uninterrupted concentration each morning. It gives me time to reflect and be creative before my team starts work.” THE SLEEP EXPERT’S VIEW: “Given that she wakes up refreshed and is alert throughout the day, Hailey might be someone with a genetic ability to feel fully rested after four to six hours of sleep. Certain genes have been discovered that appear to allow this (these include DEC2, ADRB1 and SIK3). The DEC2 gene is associated with a need for around six hours, while SIK3 can be even less in some. Those with these genes will have always been short sleepers and have family with similar traits. The key is that you wake up refreshed and remain so through the day. If you wake up tired and groggy, you probably aren’t genetically a short sleeper and need more sleep (usually seven to nine hours).”

Too busy to sleep: A “ lot of broken sleep that made up a low number of hours.” Charlotte Dodds, 35, is the founder of two small businesses and the mother of two young children in Gateshead. “When the kids were little there wasn’t much routine. I can’t say exactly when I was going to bed each night because timing depended on the babies – a lot of broken sleep made up a low number of hours. I started my first business around the same time, when I was also in full-time work and earning a qualification. I made the most of the hours I was awake – being busy took focus away from how tired I felt. My sleep pattern is more regular now that my children are older. But one is still a bad sleeper so, while I aim to have a regular bedtime, it’s never a full, uninterrupted night’s sleep. I’ve also started my second business and often work late – I might not go to bed until one or two in the morning before getting up in time for the school run. My body has become used to it. When I was in my twenties I worked in hospitality and could have a nap when I was tired. Now I wouldn’t be able to nod off because I’m accustomed to running on so little sleep. My advice to new parents: surround yourself with a community that understands your situation. It was difficult with my second because we were in lockdown but mother and baby groups helped. There’s always someone on the WhatsApp group, even at 3am.” THE SLEEP EXPERT’S VIEW: “It’s great that Charlotte has found support among parents facing a similar challenge. I hope she has nighttime filters on her mobile to prevent its blue light from keeping her awake. Blue light delays the production of melatonin, our sleep hormone. It’s also important that she doesn’t go on social media, doom scroll or watch TV during these times as this stimulates the brain and can delay sleep. For those with

babies and broken sleep I’d recommend that parents try to catch up on sleep when baby takes a nap. For those who expect broken sleep with older children, a nap between 2-5pm, when we feel naturally tired, would be good to add to their routine.”

The shift worker: “It’d be 3am and I’d think, oh no, here we go again.” Michael Oddie, 31, from Manchester, is a former IT night-shift worker. “My last job in technical support demanded 12-hour shifts. I’d work from 7am-7pm, or the reverse, and had a 30-minute walk to work. So I’d wake up at around 5.30am and leave the house at 6.15am. After getting home I’d try to cook a meal, then end up feeling like I had no time to relax, so I’d sacrifice sleep instead – in theory, about three hours. But when I’d look at my clock it’d be 3am and I’d think, oh no, here we go again. My lifestyle was all go. I was tired at the end of shift but attributed it to the work, not the lack of sleep. Coffee got me through and, on days off, I’d have a big sleep binge. I moved to working nine to five when I started running my own business and it’s a much less arduous schedule. But when I first made the switch I still wanted to sleep for just four hours – I had to train myself out of it as I was going to bed at 4am for no reason. Now I make more time for sleep and get six or seven hours per night. I feel healthier. That’s probably related to diet and exercise but improving those aspects is easier when you’ve had better sleep. I don’t feel like I need more than six hours – if I have eight, I feel drowsy.” THE SLEEP EXPERT’S VIEW: “For those doing night shifts, changing the body clock is very hard as the natural rhythm is designed for us to go to bed and wake up at the same time each day. It can adjust by an hour maximum (such as when the clocks change) but will struggle with longer. On a night shift you’re in a similar pattern to someone travelling long haul, creating a jet lag effect. Try to plan ahead and move your body clock towards the bedtime you want in smaller steps – get to bed later before the start of a night shift and earlier towards the end of it (ideally over a few days) to help the body clock adjust. Getting a nap before the start of the first night shift would be good, too, as it puts some sleep in the bank. Caffeine is okay early in your shift but avoid it later as it will keep you awake once you get home.”

Is four hours of sleep ever really enough?

“Sleep is personal and these interviews have demonstrated how individuals respond differently to short sleeping – and live with it. This doesn’t detract from the fact that most people will experience impaired cognition and health impacts when they don’t sleep enough. While under-sleeping on occasion leads to short-term cognitive loss and increased anxiety, sleeping for less than six hours habitually is linked to cardiovascular disease and stroke, type-2 diabetes and obesity,” says Dave. “If you’re regularly sleeping less than six hours per night you should visit your doctor. Above that six-hour threshold (or below it, for a minority of people), sleep quality is all about finding the routine that works for you. When you sleep in line with your sleep preference you get both an increased quantity and quality of sleep,” Dave advises. “You’ll know that you’re getting enough sleep when you wake up feeling fully refreshed without needing to use an alarm. At this point your body is waking you up with the optimum level of rest.”

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food as

medicine for menopause Lemon chicken tagine, p138

Nutritionist Karen Newby explains how important your everyday diet can be to help reduce menopausal symptoms Words and recipes KAREN NEWBY Photographs LAURA EDWARDS

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hat we eat is the biggest lever we have to pull when it comes to reducing menopausal symptoms. A higher intake of ultra-processed foods has been shown to be associated with higher menopausal symptom severity, and hot flushes, which can affect up to 70% of us, have been shown to be inversely related to a more Mediterranean-style diet, whereas diets containing more fat and sugar are associated with higher instances of flushing. What we eat can also help support our longer-term health and vitality, and reduce the risk of disease, from obesity to cardiovascular disease to Alzheimer’s. One of the reasons research was carried out in the 1950s into the dietary habits of people in Crete, Greece, was their low instances of heart attacks, leading to recognition of the benefits of a Mediterranean diet. And a large longitudinal study published in 2023 in the British Medical Journal showed that a nutrient-dense diet was the biggest factor for Alzheimer’s risk prevention.

There are certain regions around the world known as ‘blue zones’ that are home to unusually high populations of centenarians. Here are some of the similarities in what they eat and how:

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPH: MELANIE MAYA/E+/GETTY

• Their diets have a plant-based slant • Legumes are a big part of their diets, including lentils as well as fava (broad), black and soya beans • Meat is eaten on average around five times a month (and in small portions) • They all take time to eat • They instinctively follow the 80% rule: eating until they are 80% full • They follow the path of the sun when it comes to portion sizes, eating a big breakfast and a lighter evening meal, not too late in the day, and then they don’t eat for the rest of the day

The menopausal transition is now classified as an inflammatory event in a woman’s life. We may suffer from more aches and pains, plus our cardiovascular risk factors, such as blood pressure, can increase. But the influence of diet when it comes to lowering these risks is extremely well documented. An interest in the Mediterranean diet first arose thanks to low instances of heart disease in the region. This is due to key anti-inflammatory components: a high intake of pulses, wholegrains, oily fish, fruit and vegetables, and olive oil; a low to moderate intake of dairy; and a low intake of saturated fats, meat and sugar. It also includes higher levels of antioxidants, which support the cardiovascular system – examples being the polyphenols found in fruit and veg, including flavonoids such as quercetin. There is a greater need for more anti-inflammatory foods to help future-proof our long-term health, which is why many of my recipes include turmeric, ginger, tomatoes, beetroot, green leafy vegetables, garlic, onions, berries, cherries, pomegranates, peppers, kale, cabbage, olive oil, nuts, seeds, linseed/flaxseed oil and omega 3 rich oily fish such as sardines, mackerel, salmon and trout. During menopause it becomes very important to work those levers that we do have control over, and one big one is our food choices, especially all the therapeutic ingredients that make up my menopause larder.

» TURN OVER TO TRY SOME NOURISHING RECIPES

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Lemon chicken tagine

Anchovy and artichoke niçoise

A warming and comforting one-pot tagine with chicken, rich with glycine and B vitamin to calm our nervous system, along with serotonin-supporting saffron.

Cooling potatoes down before serving increases resistant starch, a prebiotic that helps support beneficial bacteria growth. Another prebiotic food is the artichoke, due to its inulin content. This tasty dish also includes eggs for choline, which forms part of the memory neurochemical acetylcholine, plus anchovies rich in omega 3. Great for supper, and any leftovers are perfect for lunch the next day.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS MARINATING | COOK 1 HR 30 MINS | EASY 8 chicken thighs or legs (or a mixture) 4 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp saffron strands, gently crushed 300ml chicken stock, warmed 3 onions, roughly chopped 3cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated 3 garlic cloves, crushed 4-5 small preserved lemons, drained, quartered, pips discarded, skin and flesh roughly chopped 1 cinnamon stick 2 tbsp lemon juice 120g stoned green olives 10g coriander, roughly chopped PARSLEY GREMOLATA (OPTIONAL) 30g flaked almonds, lightly toasted (roughly chopped, if you prefer) 15g parsley, roughly chopped 1 tsp lemon zest 1 tbsp olive oil Put the chicken in a large bowl with 1 tbsp of the oil, the ground cinnamon, 1 tsp of the cumin, 1/2 tsp of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Mix well to combine and then put in the fridge, covered, for 1 hr (or overnight). Add the saffron to the stock and set aside to infuse.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY SALAD 250g baby new potatoes, halved 150g green beans or asparagus, trimmed and blanched 4 eggs 80g sliced artichoke hearts from a jar (drained weight) 16 cherry tomatoes, halved 16 stoned kalamata or black olives 1 /3 cucumber, sliced 4 radishes, finely sliced ½ red onion, sliced into half moons 4 tbsp capers, drained 50g tin of anchovies in olive oil, drained small handful of basil leaves, to finish DRESSING 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1 small shallot, finely chopped 4 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp dijon mustard ½ lemon, juiced Whisk all the dressing ingredients together in a jug.

Put 1 tbsp of oil in a large lidded pan over a medium-high heat. Sear the chicken, skin-side down, for 4-5 mins, turning halfway so that both sides are golden brown. Transfer to a plate. Add the remaining oil to the pan and reduce the heat to medium. Cook the onions for 10 mins, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pan. Add the ginger, garlic, preserved lemons, cinnamon stick, remaining cumin, 1 tsp of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Stir to combine and then cook for another couple of minutes. Return the chicken to the pan, stir to coat with the onions and spices, then pour over the stock and the lemon juice. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, then cover and cook for 1 hr, stirring once or twice, until the chicken is falling apart. Meanwhile, mix together all the ingredients for the gremolata, if using, along with a pinch of salt. Add the olives to the pan and cook for 15 mins, uncovered, so that the liquid reduces and thickens. Stir in the coriander and serve with the gremolata sprinkled on top.

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For the salad, cover the potatoes with water in a medium pan. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 15 mins or until the potatoes can be pierced with a fork but don’t fall apart. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to a platter, reserving the cooking water. While they’re still warm, drizzle over 2-3 tbsp of dressing. Simmer the beans or asparagus in the cooking water for 1-2 mins or until the beans turn bright green, then drain. Meanwhile, simmer the eggs in a small pan of simmering water for 6 mins 30 seconds to make jammy eggs. Cool under cold running water, then peel the eggs and cut each into two. Arrange the remaining salad ingredients on top of the potatoes and finish with a sprinkling of basil. Serve with the remaining dressing alongside so that everyone can help themselves.


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Roasted squash and feta with almond pesto Calcium-rich yogurt, feta, spinach and almonds make this a soothing dish to eat in the evening, encouraging restful sleep. Squash is a very good source of magnesium too – 100g will deliver approximately 34mg, which is over 10% of your recommended daily amount. Spinach and almonds are also great sources. If you suffer with restless legs that wake you up or prevent you from falling asleep, then more magnesium will be helpful. Serve this as a starter or as a side to Lebaneseor Persian-style dishes.

Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Spread out the almonds for the pesto on a baking tray and roast for 15 mins, shaking the tray halfway through. Remove from the oven and, once cool, chop them, then set aside 10g to serve. Increase the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Line a large baking tray with baking paper. Put the squash wedges, olive oil and cinnamon in a large bowl, along with 1 tsp of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Mix well, then spread out on the baking tray, peel-side down. Roast for 35-40 mins until a knife inserted into the squash goes through easily and the edges are starting to caramelise. Remove from the oven to cool.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR SIDE | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 55 MINS | EASY 1 large butternut squash (no need to peel), halved lengthways, seeds scooped out and then cut into wedges 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 1 tsp ground cinnamon 150g natural yogurt 120g feta ½ tsp aleppo chilli flakes (optional) ALMOND AND BASIL PESTO 100g whole skin-on almonds 120g baby or regular spinach 80g basil leaves 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp lemon zest 1 tbsp lemon juice 100ml olive, linseed or flaxseed oil 50g parmesan or pecorino, finely grated (optional)

While the squash is roasting, make the pesto. Put the spinach, basil, the remaining roasted almonds, the garlic, lemon zest and juice, and 60ml of the oil in a food processor, along with 3/4 tsp of salt. Blitz to combine and then stir through the cheese (if using) and the remaining oil. Scrape into a bowl, cover and put in the fridge until ready to use. Put the yogurt and 100g of the feta in a bowl. Mix well to combine, trying to break down the feta as much as possible, then spoon onto a serving platter (or separate plates). Arrange the squash on top and then dollop over some pesto. Finish with the reserved chopped almonds, the remaining crumbled feta, the aleppo chilli flakes (if using) and a final drizzle of olive oil.

Tip You’ll make more pesto than you need but it keeps in a sealed jar (cover the surface with extra olive oil first) in the fridge for four days.

Recipes extracted from The Natural Menopause Method Cookbook by Karen Newby (£22, Pavilion Books). Photographs: Laura Edwards. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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Our recipes work olive recipes are tested by our team so you know they’ll work every time. Please note: book extract recipes are supplied by the publisher and not tested by us. Sustainability It’s at the heart of everything we do. We try to help you cut down on food waste by suggesting ideas for using up any leftovers, and by celebrating and keeping you informed about green initiatives. Balanced eating Our recipes are analysed by a BANT-registered nutritionist, so you can be informed on exactly what you are eating. For more health advice and recipes, see olivemagazine.com. Ethical In our test kitchen, where possible, we use humanely reared meat, eggs and chicken, sustainably caught fish, unrefined sugar and fairly traded ingredients. International savvy British produce is great but we also like to cook dishes inspired by travel: some ingredients only grow in tropical conditions and can’t be had without air/sea miles – it’s your choice whether to use them. Reviews We carry out our taste tests, product and gadget reviews fairly and rigorously. Our writers are food experts, so when we make a restaurant recommendation or review a destination or product, you can trust our opinion. olive is brought to you by the same team as Good Food, Britain’s leading food media brand. We’re committed to improving diversity and inclusivity, and work with a wide range of contributors to drive authentic change. There’s so much more to explore beyond the pages of your magazine, including recipes, award-winning podcasts and videos showcasing cooking skills and techniques at olivemagazine.com.

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EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN Tom Bureau CEO Sean Cornwell COO & CFO Dan Constanda 142


RECIPE INDEX

40 22

Starters and snacks

32 Curry leaf tomatoes on yogurt with bombay mix V 140 Roasted squash and feta with almond pesto V 130 Sweet and salty date power balls VE

Mains and sides

138 Anchovy and artichoke niçoise 58 Aubergines stuffed with miso pork 52 Burmese meatball curry 58 Duck breasts with mushrooms and blackberries 145 Finnish salmon soup (lohikeitto) 24 French onion beef stew with a cheesy croûte top 12 Halibut in a ginger and herb broth 22 Halloumi schnitzel with harissa honey drizzle and crispy apple slaw V 34 Hariyali (green masala) prawn and saffron pulao GF

138 Lemon chicken tagine 60 One-pan beef stroganoff 21 Peruvian-style roast chicken with herby green sauce 10 Purple sprouting broccoli, chorizo and barley one-pot 54 Shredded chicken noodle salad 52 Sour vegetable soup V GF 132 Tahini tofu veg bowl with sesame lime dressing VE 8 Thai stir-fry venison with fried egg 29 Tiger milk ceviche black rice bowl with coconut 130 Traybake mushroom udon V

Desserts and bakes

48 Cardamom, coffee and milk chocolate doughnuts V 36 Chocolate, miso and sesame self-saucing pudding V

BRINGING YOU THE BEST

14

26 Dark chocolate, olive oil and sea salt focaccia V 110 Kaiserschmarren V 111 Marmorgugelhupf V 44 Matcha and ube swirl cheesecake V 40 Matcha, white chocolate and marcona almond cookies V 42 Matchagato V 14 Rhubarb and pistachio galette V 108 Sachertorte V

Drinks

68 Añejo amaretto alexander 67 Añejo mule 69 Añejo old fashioned GF

Gluten-free VE Vegan

V

Vegetarian

VIDEO EXTRA

SCAN TO FIND MORE GREAT CONTENT ON INSTAGRAM INCLUDING TRAVEL, WELLBEING AND RECIPE INSPO

Verna Gao

The Rangoon Sisters

Nisha Parmar

Our columnist shares a recipe from her travels. This month, salmon soup from Finland (p145).

Explore Burmese cuisine through Emily and Amy Chung’s fragrant dishes (p50).

Serve up Nisha’s menu at your next dinner party, featuring a sweetsavoury pudding (p31).

143


Coming next issue

RECIPE IMAGE FROM CHOCOLATE BAKING BY EDD KIMBER (£28, QUADRILLE). PHOTOGRAPH: © MATTHEW HAGUE

Chocolate heaven

Edd Kimber’s indulgent puddings and bakes 144

Easy entertaining menus for the long weekend

Discover the vibrant food scene of Cape Town

No-nonsense ways to boost your nutrition


Verna eats

FINLAND

Each month our new columnist shares a recipe inspired by her travels, plus tips for making your own version at home Recipe VERNA GAO Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Finnish salmon soup (lohikeitto) This is my new favourite soup since coming back from Finland – I’m honestly obsessed. It’s so fresh and creamy. The salmon stays tender as it poaches gently in the broth, and the dill and lemon bring everything to life. An absolute must-try this soup season. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 1 tbsp butter 1 leek, thinly sliced 1 litre of fish or vegetable stock 3 medium potatoes, diced 2 large carrots, sliced into thin rounds 200ml single cream or milk 400g salmon fillet, skinned and cut into chunks large handful of dill, chopped ½ lemon, juiced, plus extra wedges to serve rye bread, sliced, to serve

Melt the butter in a large pot over a medium heat and cook the leek for 5 mins until soft and fragrant but don’t let it brown. Pour in the stock, toss in the potatoes and carrots, and bring to a simmer. Cook for 10-12 mins until the potatoes are just tender. Pour in the cream, then tip in the salmon and poach for 5-6 mins over a low heat until just cooked through and flaking. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed, then add the dill. Squeeze over the lemon, then serve with extra lemon wedges and a side of rye bread for the ultimate Finnish experience. PER SERVING 515 kcals • fat 30G • saturates 12G carbs 28G • sugars 6G • fibre 6G • protein 29G • salt 0.5G

Verna Gao is a Shanghai-born chef, presenter, creator and author. She uses cooking as a means of staying connected to her Chinese heritage and loves travelling to learn about cultures through eating, as well as for recipe inspiration. Her book, Have You Eaten?, is out now. Follow her on Instagram @vernahungrybanana.

145


Verna eats

FINLAND

TRY MY RECIPE ON PAGE 145

»

SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

In this lohikeitto (Finnish salmon soup), the salmon stays tender as it poaches gently in the broth, and the dill and lemon bring everything to life

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