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TRAVEL AWARDS EDIT 2026

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NEW! THE OLIVE TRAVEL & TASTE AWARDS. WE REVEAL THE MUST-VISIT FOODIE DESTINATIONS OF 2026

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Creamy Basque cheesecake with dark caramel sauce TRAVEL AWARDS EDIT 2026

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Editor’s letter

’m especially excited about this issue as it marks the launch of our very first Travel & Taste Awards. Over the past few months we’ve worked closely with our expert judging panel to uncover the hotels, destinations and experiences that truly represent the very best of foodie travel. You’ll find all the finalists on page 75, with more details on our winners at olivemagazine.com. Whether you’re planning a weekend escape or a once in a lifetime trip, we hope you’ll discover somewhere to add to your wish list. That spirit of exploration continues through our recipes, which have been inspired by some of those destinations. From Edd Kimber’s New York-inspired maple latte tart to Gurd Loyal’s gorgeously crisp Belgian croquettes and Verna Gao’s Chiang Mai-style noodles, these dishes will bring a little bit of escapism to your own kitchen. We’ve also taken a closer look at some of our award winners in the travel pages. Wander the vibrant streets and food markets of Penang’s George Town on page 80, discover the rich culture and exciting new wave of restaurants shaping Estonia’s culinary scene on page 94, or find out why the Douro Valley is one of the best places for a wine tour on page 66. Happy travels!

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR. PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS TERRY

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Head to @olivemagazine on Instagram to see our creators and chefs bring recipes, restaurants and destinations to life. 3

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What to cook now

Inspiring ideas that make the most of seasonal produce.

Passport to flavour

Apéro hour

Gurd Loyal’s hot takes

Visit destinations around the world from your kitchen table. Relaxed gatherings are effortless with Alexina Anatole’s menu.

Shelf love

Edd Kimber’s modern baking

Signature dishes

New ideas for using mustard. Our expert baker makes a custard tart inspired by NY iced coffee. Santiago Lastra’s easy, authentic Mexican flavours.

Autumn gold

Comforting entertaining dishes from Barney Desmazery.

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Wine 101

Why Porto and the Douro Valley is a must-visit for wine lovers.

Globetrotters

Aperitif hour

Some of the world’s best cocktails. The best bottles and barware.

143 Recipe index 145 Verna eats Chiang Mai

Our columnist recreates khao soi.

travel

Our trends expert shares a recipe for Belgian-style croquettes.

Travel & Taste Awards

Our inaugural awards cover 2026’s best hotels, destinations and experiences.

Slow travel

Chic boltholes

Why I love Estonia

Explore the street food of George Town in Penang, Malaysia. Three boutique stays for unwinding. Chef Oliver Saaremäel shares the cuisine of his homeland.

102 Cook like a local

Dive into the cuisine of the ancient land of Egypt.

Contents TRAVEL AWARDS EDIT

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124 Easy seasonal nourishment

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108 Spotlight on the Highlands

Head to Scotland for rugged landscapes and unforgettable food.

116 Sundowner cities

Plan a bar crawl at destinations with top-notch drinking spots and cocktails.

121 My neighbourhood

Our top foodie picks in Bloomsbury.

130 Nutrients for glowing skin

Give your skin some TLC with must-eat ingredients that can help elevate your complexion.

134 Is preserved food good for you?

Our health editor investigates produce that’s been transformed into jams, pickles and more.

Find out what’s in store in your Christmas edition of olive. Give the perfect gift this year with a subscription to olive. Explore the glorious British Isles on a Fred. Olsen cruise.

120 Reader offer

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122 City break

Must-visit stops in romantic Verona.

SCAN TO SHOP THE JASON’S RECIPE BOOK

WHAT TO COOK NOW Make the most of the season’s best produce

Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

Creamy lobster linguine SERVES 2 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 45 MINS | EASY 1 whole cooked lobster or 2 cooked lobster tails 300ml light chicken stock 1 garlic clove, unpeeled small bunch of tarragon, leaves picked and stalks reserved 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp whole black peppercorns 2 shallots, 1 halved, 1 finely chopped knob of butter 6 tbsp double cream 175g linguine 1 tbsp finely chopped chives, plus extra to serve 25g parmesan, finely grated pinch of aleppo pepper lemon wedges, to serve Extract the meat from the lobster and keep chilled (if you have a whole lobster, crack the claws and carefully remove the meat from them too). Put the stock in a pan with the garlic, tarragon stalks, fennel seeds, peppercorns, lobster shell and halved shallot. Cover and simmer for 20 mins, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse. Chop 1 tbsp of the tarragon leaves. Melt the butter in a pan over a medium-low heat and cook the chopped shallot for 10 mins until softened. Measure out 200ml of the stock and pour this into the pan. Simmer for 5-10 mins until the stock has reduced by half. Add the cream, then simmer for 2 mins. Meanwhile, cook the linguine following pack instructions. Drain, reserving a cup of the cooking water. Cut the lobster meat into bite-sized pieces then stir into the sauce until just heated through. Add the linguine and toss, then add the chives and parmesan, and toss again to combine, adding a splash of cooking water if needed – it should be loose and slippery. Serve in warm bowls topped with extra chives, aleppo pepper and lemon wedges.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: FREDDIE STEWART. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

PER SERVING 964 kcals • fat 61G • saturates 36G carbs 58G • sugars 7G • fibre 6G • protein 42G • salt 2G

Crab and samphire salad Fresh crab has a mild sweet taste that pairs really well with crisp, salty samphire. Here the samphire and potatoes get a punchy, mustardy dressing, and the crab is simply tossed with a little lemon juice and herbs to allow those fresh flavours to really shine. Samphire should be readily available during high and late summer when it’s at its best – but bear in mind that it’s naturally high in salt so you probably won’t need extra salt to season the dish. SERVES 2 AS A MAIN OR 4 AS A LIGHT STARTER | PREP 10 MINS PLUS COOLING | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 150g samphire 400g baby potatoes 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tsp dijon mustard 3 tbsp olive oil 100g white crabmeat 1 /2 large lemon, juiced 3 tbsp chopped soft herbs (such as dill, parsley or chives), plus extra to serve Cook the samphire in a pan of boiling water for 1 min, then scoop out into a bowl of iced water using a slotted spoon. Cool completely, then drain well. Cook the potatoes in the pan of boiling water for 8-10 mins until just tender. Drain and cool until just warm, then halve. Whisk together the vinegar and mustard in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil and season with black pepper. Toss the crabmeat with the lemon juice and herbs. To serve, arrange the potatoes and samphire on a platter, and drizzle over the dressing. Top with the crabmeat and scatter over a few extra herbs, if you like. PER SERVING 342 kcals • fat 18G • saturates 3G carbs 29G • sugars 3G • fibre 4G • protein 15G • salt 2.9G

Tomato tartare with olive oil toast When tomatoes are at their best, serve them simply, as we have in this veggie riff on steak tartare. Skinning the tomatoes is a bit of a faff but worth the effort for that refined finish – though this will still be lovely if you want to skip that step. Try to cut everything into a neat dice as it looks beautiful on the plate. SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 4 large ripe tomatoes 1 long shallot, finely chopped 4 cornichons, finely diced 2 tsp baby capers, chopped 2 tsp finely chopped parsley 1 tbsp Kewpie mayonnaise 1 tsp dijon mustard splash of hot sauce, such as Tabasco burrata or mozzarella, to serve chives, to serve OLIVE OIL TOASTS baguette olive oil sea salt flakes Bring a pan of water to the boil and carefully lower in the tomatoes. Remove from the heat and let them stand for 1 min, then plunge the tomatoes into a bowl of iced water to cool. Peel off the skins, then quarter each and remove the seeded middles. Carefully cut the tomatoes into a small dice, then tip into a sieve set over a bowl. Toss with a pinch of salt and stand for 10 mins. To make the toasts, cut the baguette at an angle into long thin slices. Grill on both sides until golden, then drizzle over some oil and season with salt. Put the shallots, cornichons, capers, parsley, mayo, mustard and hot sauce in a bowl, and stir together to combine. Add the tomatoes and gently fold through. Divide the tartare between four plates (you can use a ring mould, if you like) and decorate with the whole chives. Drizzle over a little more oil, then serve with the toasts. PER SERVING 408 kcals • fat 10G • saturates 2G carbs 64G • sugars 8G • fibre 6G • protein 12G • salt 1.7G

Roasted figs with labneh and spiced candied walnuts Figs have a beautiful floral aroma when in season and only require gentle roasting to intensify their flavour. Buy labneh or make your own by putting yogurt in a sieve lined with muslin cloth and leaving to drain overnight. Or use a rich thick greek yogurt. SERVES 2 AS A STARTER | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 12 MINS | EASY 10 figs, halved 1 orange, zested then halved 1 /2 tsp ground cinnamon small knob of butter 2 tsp honey, plus extra for drizzling 200g labneh or very thick greek yogurt SPICED CANDIED WALNUTS 100g walnut halves 15g caster sugar

25g honey 1 tbsp butter, melted Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. For the walnuts, mix together all the ingredients, then spread out over a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Cook for 10 mins, stirring halfway through. Leave to cool completely. Put the figs in a roasting dish and squeeze over one of the orange halves. Sprinkle over the cinnamon, dot over the butter and drizzle over some honey. Bake for 10-15 mins. Meanwhile, put the labneh, orange zest and honey in a bowl, squeeze over the other orange half and beat to combine. Spread the labneh mixture over individual plates or one large serving platter. Top with the warm figs and their roasting juices, as well as the candied walnuts. PER SERVING 651 kcals • fat 29G • saturates 8G carbs 78G • sugars 77G • fibre 14G • protein 12G • salt 0.5G For hundreds of seasonal solutions, head to olivemagazine.com and type in the ingredient you want to use.

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Passport to f lavour Take a trip around some of our favourite destinations with recipes inspired by the techniques and flavours of Spain, USA, Sri Lanka and Japan Words and recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Sri Lankan black pepper prawns with coconut sambal SERVES 4-6 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 50 MINS | EASY 450g extra-large sustainably sourced king prawns, peeled ½ tsp ground turmeric 2 tbsp coconut oil or rapeseed oil 1 tsp fennel seeds, roughly crushed 10-15 curry leaves, plus a few extra to finish 2 onions, finely chopped 1 tbsp finely grated garlic 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 1 tbsp unroasted Sri Lankan curry powder 1 tsp black peppercorns, crushed 400g tin of light coconut milk 1 lime, juiced COCONUT SAMBAL 150g coconut, grated 1 small long shallot, finely chopped ½ bird’s-eye chilli, finely chopped 1 lime, juiced 1 tbsp finely chopped coriander TO SERVE basmati rice, cooked roti Butterfly the prawns and remove any black veins. Toss the prawns with 1/2 tsp salt and the turmeric. Heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat and sizzle the fennel seeds for 1 min, then add the curry leaves for 30 seconds. Add the onions and cook over a low heat for 25-30 mins until really soft and golden. Stir in the garlic and ginger, and cook for 2 mins, then add the curry powder and peppercorns, and cook for 1 min. Stir in the coconut milk and simmer for 10-15 mins until thickened. Add the prawns and a few more curry leaves, and cook until just pink. Stir in the lime juice. To make the sambal, toss everything together in a bowl. Serve the curry with rice, sambal and roti on the side.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

PER SERVING (6) 270 kcals • fat 19G • saturates 15G carbs 7G • sugars 5G • fibre 5G • protein 16G • salt 0.9G

Chicago tavern-style pizza two ways Chicago is famous for its deep-dish style but this giant sharing bar pizza is also a firm favourite in the city. The crust is very thin and crisp, and toppings extend all the way out to the edge of the crust. It’s quite easy to replicate in a domestic oven too. The pizza is usually ‘party cut’ into bite-sized squares for easy snacking with a beer. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS RISING | COOK 25 MINS | EASY 350g strong white bread flour 1 tsp caster sugar 1 tsp dried fast-action yeast TOPPINGS 4-6 tbsp pasta sauce (we used Mutti tomato pasta sauce with chilli) 50g parmesan, finely grated 90g pepperoni 100g Italian-style sausage or any herby garlicky sausage, skins removed ½ tsp fennel seeds, crushed pinch of chilli flakes (optional) 4 tbsp giardiniera (pickled vegetables), drained and chopped 250g block of mozzarella, sliced Mix the flour, sugar, yeast and 1 tsp of salt in a bowl. Add 250ml of water and mix to a rough dough, then knead briefly until it forms a fairly smooth dough. Cover the bowl with a tea towel and leave for 2 hrs until doubled in size (or leave to slow rise in the fridge overnight).

The pizza is usually ‘party cut’ into bite-sized squares for easy snacking with a beer

Divide the dough in half, knead briefly, then roll each into a ball. Use a rolling pin to stretch each into a large circle on a large piece of baking paper until 1cm thick. Chill the bases for 1 hr, uncovered, or until you are ready to cook. Heat a large baking sheet in a 240C/220C fan/gas 7 oven for 15 mins. Take the bases out of the fridge and invert each onto a new sheet of baking paper so the dried out base is now on the bottom. Spread a thin layer of tomato sauce over the bases, going all the way to the edges. Sprinkle over half the parmesan then top one pizza with the pepperoni and the other with little pieces of sausage. Sprinkle the sausage pizza with the fennel seeds and a pinch of chilli flakes, if you like. Divide the giardiniera between the bases then top with the mozzarella and the remaining parmesan. Slide one pizza on its paper onto the hot baking sheet. Cook for 10-12 mins or until the base is crisp and the top is bubbling and golden. Slide onto a board and cut into squares. Repeat with the second pizza. PER SERVING 734 kcals • fat 32G • saturates 16G carbs 71G • sugars 3G • fibre 4G • protein 37G • salt 4.6G

Gyoza dumpling salad with pickled red cabbage Dumpling salads are easy to throw together and look so impressive. Look for gyoza in the freezer cabinet – most supermarkets have a good selection now so choose whatever filling is your favourite. We’ve made a topping of bright pink sesame pickled cabbage for a zingy flavour and colour contrast. It will make more cabbage than you need but will keep for a week or so in the fridge. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY 175g Chinese leaf, finely shredded 2 carrots, peeled and shredded ½ cucumber, deseeded and shredded 4 spring onions, chopped (keep greens and whites separate) handful of coriander 1 red chilli, finely chopped (optional) 16-20 gyoza dumplings black and white sesame seeds DRESSING 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 tsp sesame oil 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tbsp finely grated ginger PICKLED RED CABBAGE 400g red cabbage, finely shredded 100ml rice vinegar 2 tbsp caster sugar 2 tsp sesame oil To make the pickled cabbage, put the cabbage in a plastic lidded container. Put the vinegar, sugar, ½ tsp of salt and 5 tbsp of water in a pan, and bring to a simmer. Take off the heat and cool a little, then pour over the cabbage. Leave for 1 hr, shaking occasionally, then stir in the oil. Keep in the fridge until needed (any leftovers will keep for a week). To make the dressing, whisk all the ingredients together with 2 tbsp of cold water. Put the Chinese leaf, carrots, cucumber, spring onion whites, coriander and chilli, if using, in a large bowl. Season with a little salt then toss together. Cook the dumplings following pack instructions. Toss the veg with half the dressing and pile up on a platter with the warm dumplings. Drizzle over the rest of the dressing then top with some of the pickled cabbage, spring onion greens and sesame seeds. PER SERVING 228 kcals • fat 8G • saturates 1G carbs 26G • sugars 14G • fibre 9G • protein 8G • salt 2.2G

Creamy Basque cheesecake with dark caramel sauce This recipe takes the caramel sauce to a deep, almost burnt flavour so the bitterness contrasts with the sweet creamy cheesecake. You’ll need to start this the day before as the overnight chill will give you the perfect set. At a pinch you could make in the morning then chill all day. SERVES 10-12 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 45 MINS | EASY 800g full-fat soft cheese 250g light muscovado sugar 4 eggs 200g soured cream 1 tbsp cornflour 2 tsp vanilla extract or paste BURNT CARAMEL SAUCE 200g caster sugar 200ml double cream Heat the oven to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Beat the cheese in a bowl with electric beaters to loosen. Add the muscovado and beat again for 2-3 mins until fully incorporated. Add the eggs one by one, beating until each is fully combined. Beat in the soured cream then the cornflour, vanilla and a good pinch of salt. Tear off two large pieces of baking paper that are long enough to line a deep 20cm springform tin and come up over the edges. Arrange the baking paper in a cross then lift into the tin and push down. Use your hands to mould into the shape of the tin, making sure you push down into the edges.

This recipe takes the caramel sauce to a deep, almost burnt flavour so the bitterness contrasts wih the sweet creamy cheesecake

Give the mixture a brief whisk then pour into the lined tin. Bake for 40-45 mins until the cheesecake has risen and is a deep golden brown on top – it should be set around the edges but still wobbly in the middle. Leave to cool then chill in the fridge overnight (or for at least 6 hrs). To make the sauce, put the sugar in a large, deep stainless steel pan (this will help you see the colour change). Heat, without stirring, until the sugar starts to melt. Keep moving the pan around to help melt the remaining sugar. Once it has turned a deep golden brown, remove from the heat and slowly add 100ml of water – it will splutter a little so be careful. Put back on the heat and cook gently until any lumps of caramel have melted back into the liquid, and everything is uniform. Stir in the cream and a pinch of sea salt flakes, and let it bubble for 2 mins. Set aside to cool. Slice the cheesecake and serve with a drizzle of the caramel sauce on top. PER SERVING (12) 468 kcals • fat 30G • saturates 19G carbs 41G • sugars 40G • fibre none • protein 7G • salt 0.7G

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SHOOT DIRECTOR: LAURIE NEWMAN. STYLIST: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLIST: AMY STEPHENSON

Apéro hour

Serve up Alexina Anatole’s make-ahead dishes for a relaxed drinks gathering with friends Recipes ALEXINA ANATOLE Photographs ANDREW BURTON 29

Menu Vermouth spritz Provençal bread dipping oil Watermelon, lime and feta checkerboard salad Salty peach cheesecake

rance has a hosting secret and it’s all about creating maximum joy with minimum fuss. I’m sure you already know about l’heure de l’apéro – that golden hour before dinner with a glass of rosé and a few snacks: radishes with salted French butter, tapenade on little toasts… but did you know that apéro hour can quietly become dinner? In France, this is called apéro dînatoire and it stretches the apéro hour approach. Think chilled drinks, a selection of small plates (often shop-bought) and a handful of beautiful things on the table. No three courses, no elaborate table settings, no hard deadlines. Having grown up in Paris, I’m convinced this is one of the most underrated ways to have people over, and these effortless recipes are built for exactly that.

Vermouth spritz A spritz made with dry vermouth rather than Aperol is a more grown-up proposition: fresher, less sweet and far more food-friendly. The orange bitters do quiet but important work here – a few dashes is all it takes to tie everything together. SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY 25ml dry vermouth 75ml prosecco 25ml soda water 4 dashes of orange bitters lemon twist, to garnish Fill a glass with ice. Pour over the vermouth, prosecco and soda water. Stir 10 times, then add the orange bitters and garnish with a lemon twist.

Provençal bread dipping oil This is inspired by the tapenade-adjacent things you’ll find on tables in the south of France – a little dish of something intensely flavoured to eat with bread while you wait. Dried figs bring a subtle sweetness that balances the brininess of the olives and capers, and raspberry vinegar cuts through the richness of the oil. It comes together in minutes and improves as it sits. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY 200ml extra-virgin olive oil 4 tbsp Provençal black olives, finely chopped 2-3 dried figs, chopped 1 lemon, zested 1 garlic clove, grated 2 tbsp finely chopped parsley 2 tsp non-pareil capers 4 tsp raspberry vinegar or 3 tsp balsamic vinegar sea salt flakes crusty bread, to serve Combine all the ingredients except the bread in a bowl or lipped plate, seasoning with some sea salt flakes. Serve with crusty bread for dunking. PER SERVING (6) 310 kcals • fat 32G • saturates 5G carbs 5G • sugars 4G • fibre 2G • protein 0.4G • salt 0.3G

Watermelon, lime and feta checkerboard salad Watermelon loves to marinate so do give it at least a couple of hours to do so – or you could even complete this step up to a week in advance, it will be all the better for it. The checkerboard presentation is optional but genuinely worth the extra few minutes: it makes an already beautiful salad feel particularly special. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS MARINATING | EASY 1 extra-small watermelon 4 limes, zested and juiced 120ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 200g block of feta basil and mint leaves, to garnish Remove the rind from the watermelon and chop the flesh into even cubes – save any offcuts or irregular pieces and chill for a hydrating snack for later. Put the lime zest and juice into a large container, pour in the oil, then add the watermelon cubes. Toss thoroughly, cover and then transfer to the fridge to marinate for at least 2 hrs, though anywhere between 2-5 days is even better. Cut the feta into batons that match the width of the watermelon cubes, then slice each baton into 3mm-thick pieces – the feta pieces should sit flush against the watermelon cubes in a checkerboard pattern but overall there will be more watermelon than feta as this ensures a more balanced flavour. To assemble the checkerboard, arrange alternating pieces of watermelon and feta on a board, then carefully transfer to a lipped serving plate using a palette knife – this keeps the plate clean and the pattern intact. Alternatively, simply arrange everything together in a more casual style, it's just as delicious. Spoon the marinating juices around the salad, along with an extra drizzle of oil. Finish with sea salt flakes and a scattering of basil and mint leaves. PER SERVING (6) 360 kcals • fat 24G • saturates 7G carbs 27G • sugars 24G • fibre 2G • protein 8G • salt 0.8G

Salty peach cheesecake This is a deconstructed cheesecake: all the components layered loosely in a glass, making it more forgiving and quicker to pull together. Cloves and peaches share flavour compounds, which means the spice doesn't overpower so much as amplify the fruit – the peaches end up tasting more peachy. White miso adds depth and ensures it isn’t too sweet. SERVES 6 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 30 MINS | EASY Biscoff biscuits, to serve PEACH COMPÔTE 6 peaches, halved and pitted 100g caster sugar 12 cloves 1 lemon, juiced to make 2-3 tbsp MISO-CHEESECAKE CREAM 330g soft cheese 100g honey 2 tbsp white miso 200g mascarpone 200ml double cream, whipped to soft peaks To make the compôte, chop each peach half into four pieces, then put in a small heavy-bottomed pan along with the sugar, cloves, lemon juice and a couple pinches of salt. Cook over a medium-high heat for 25-30 mins, stirring occasionally, until soft, jammy and deeply fragrant. Remove the cloves, then set aside to cool. For the cheesecake cream, whisk together the soft cheese, honey and miso until smooth, then whisk in the mascarpone. Fold in the whipped cream until just combined. To assemble, roughly layer crushed biscuits with the cheesecake cream and peach compôte in serving glasses or bowls, repeating the layers and finishing with a final flourish of biscuit crumbs. PER SERVING 599 kcals • fat 46G • saturates 30G carbs 38G • sugars 38G • fibre 2G • protein 6G • salt 1.2G

Alexina Anatole is a writer, cook, presenter and regular supper club host, based in London. She was born in Brighton but grew up in Paris and London. Her debut cookbook, Bitter, was released in 2023, followed by Sweet in 2025. Her new weekly video series for olive, One Good Thing, aims to elevate your entertaining in one simple step, bringing to life an easy recipe for you to recreate at home.

Gurd

HOT

Loyal’s

T TAKES

Trends expert Gurd Loyal shares a recipe that’s having a moment online and in the restaurant world – this month, a Belgian-style beer snack

PHOTOGRAPH: JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH. SHOOT DIRECTOR: FREDDIE STEWART. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

nlike other European croquettes, many of which tend to be potato-based, Belgian croquettes are unique in that they’re filled with thick, creamy béchamel. They also tend to have a slightly more robust golden breadcrumb coating, which conceals their velvety, melting interiors – when deep-fried, the filling oozes out of these crunchy crusts. Garnaalkroketten are the most popular – filled with tiny North Sea grey shrimp – but gooey, cheese-filled croquettes loaded with gruyère, emmental or gouda are just as well loved across the Belgian regions. In Brussels, the open-air seafood counter Noordzee, located in the atmospheric Place Sainte-Catherine, cooks the most prized croquettes in the city. Its ultra-fresh shrimp are saline, savoury, rich and sweet, which gives the croquettes an intense depth of flavour that’s amplified by a shatteringly crisp crumb, lemon wedges and generous dollops of tartar on the side. In Antwerp, dedicated artisan croquette bars have popped up everywhere, all devoted to perfecting this iconic Belgian delicacy. In the city centre is Croquettenbar Smaeck, which elevates its offerings to gourmet standards. The oude kaas features a deeply savoury mature cheese filling that pairs deliciously with the housemade dipping sauce. Meanwhile, its quintessential shrimp croquette is packed with grey shrimp, and its less conventional rendang croquette is filled with slow-cooked, fragrant Indonesian-spiced pulled beef. It also offers a croquette tasting platter for those who can’t decide what to order. Another famed Antwerp establishment is Croquettes Coquettes, which offers a seafood croquette filled with lime pearls that pop in your mouth, plus a classic North Sea shrimp croquette served in a brioche bun and a Greekinspired feta and tomato croquette. Tucked away on Armeduivelstraat, the cosy De Arme Duivel pub serves up traditional, scratch-made, ultra-creamy croquettes loaded with grey shrimp, plus parmesan shavings and fried parsley to garnish. Lastly, check out Fish A’ Gogo, a seafood shack by Antwerp’s cathedral – its famous croquettes are extra creamy with a touch of spice, crisp panko crust and good-quality shrimp. There’s also an extra-indulgent lobster croquette available seasonally. My recipe brings together the best of all these options – buttery béchamel, a generous amount of fresh shrimp, gruyère for extra richness, a touch of cayenne for heat and parsley for freshness. They’re double-breadcrumbed so the centre stays intact as they fry, but you can stick with a single layer if you prefer a lighter croquette. Serve with a crisp Belgian beer – in Antwerp, it would be an amber ale brewed at the historic De Koninck brewery.

Belgian-style béchamel and shrimp croquettes SERVES 4-6 (MAKES AROUND 20) | PREP 15 MINS PLUS CHILLING AND FREEZING | COOK 5 MINS | EASY 85g butter, diced 1 medium onion, finely diced 95g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tbsp cornflour 350ml whole milk 80g gruyère or comte, grated 3 /4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1 /2 tsp cayenne pepper 250g peeled and cooked prawns 1 lemon, zested then halved 15g parsley, finely chopped 200g golden breadcrumbs 3 medium eggs, beaten sunflower or rapeseed oil, for frying tartar sauce, to serve Melt 20g of the butter in a large pan over a medium heat and cook the onions with a pinch of sea salt for 6-7 mins until translucent. Add the remaining butter and allow it to melt (but not brown), then tip in the flours. Whisk to bring everything together into a thick roux, then cook for 2-3 mins, whisking until no raw flour remains. Pour in half of the milk, then whisk well over a gentle heat until smooth. Add the remaining milk and whisk again until you have a smooth, thick béchamel. Add the cheese, nutmeg, cayenne, 1/2 tsp each of black pepper and sea salt, the prawns, lemon zest and parsley. Cook for 1 min, whisking continuously, then taste and add more spices or salt, if needed. Cook over a low heat for 1 min until thickened, adding 1 tsp of cornflour if it’s still too runny. Pour the mixture into a deep roasting tin, then chill for at least 2 hrs until firm. Remove from the fridge and, using two large spoons, scoop out cylindrical croquettes, about 4cm long and 2cm thick. If it’s a little soft, form into loose cylinders, then put on a baking sheet lined with baking paper and freeze for 1 hr until firm. Tip some plain flour into a shallow bowl, then tip the breadcrumbs into a second and the beaten egg into a third. Roll the croquettes into the flour to coat, then the egg and finally the breadcrumbs. Arrange on a baking tray lined with baking paper, then freeze for 30 mins. If you like, coat the croquettes again as you did before – the coating ensures they are airtight and creates a satisfyingly thick crust. Fill a heavy-based pan no more than a third full with oil and heat to 170C. Fry 3-4 croquettes at a time (don’t overcrowd the pan) for 4-5 mins until golden brown. Remove to kitchen paper to drain using a slotted spoon, then squeeze over the lemon halves. Eat straight away with tartar sauce and a Belgian beer. PER SERVING (6) 608 kcals • fat 38G • saturates 14G carbs 44G • sugars 6G • fibre 2G • protein 21G • salt 2.1G

SHELF LOVE Give storecupboard ingredients a little TLC – this month, three ways to use punchy mustard Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs ANDREW BURTON

Creamy mustard chicken Braising chicken thighs in a creamy, mustardspiked sauce makes a simple but elegant dish that’s perfect for entertaining. The sauce is rich so just serve with a dressed green salad or simple vegetables like long-stemmed broccoli or swiss chard. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 45 MINS | EASY oil, for frying 8 whole chicken thighs 2 medium leeks, finely sliced 1 garlic clove, crushed glass of white wine 200ml chicken stock few thyme sprigs 2 tbsp grainy mustard 2-3 tbsp double cream long-stemmed broccoli, swiss chard or other greens, to serve Heat a little oil in a large shallow pan. Season the thighs all over then put in the pan skin-side down and cook over a mediumhigh heat until the skins are crisp and golden brown. Use tongs to remove from the pan, then add the leeks and garlic, and cook gently for 5 mins. Add the wine and bubble up until it has almost evaporated. Add the stock and thyme, and bring to a simmer. Stir in the mustard. Put the chicken back, skin-side up, then transfer to a 180C/ 160C fan/gas 4 oven and cook for 20 mins. Check the chicken is cooked through, then stir in the cream, letting it bubble up on the hob. Scatter with more thyme before serving.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: LAURIE NEWMAN. STYLIST: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLIST: AMY STEPHENSON

PER SERVING 517 kcals • fat 37G • saturates 12G carbs 4G • sugars 3G • fibre 3G • protein 36G • salt 1G

Mustardy paneer curry Mustard oil and mustard seeds are ingredients often used in curries, bringing a subtle flavour as well as heat. Here we use wholegrain mustard to bump up the flavours. Soaking paneer after frying gives a much better texture to the finished dish. SERVES 2-3 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY cold-pressed rapeseed oil or other flavourless oil, for frying block of paneer, cubed 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 green chilli, sliced ½ tsp black mustard seeds ½ tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 5 tbsp thick greek yogurt (10% fat is best) basmati rice, cooked to serve naan, to serve coriander, to serve Heat 1-2 tbsp of oil in a large frying pan, then fry the paneer until golden all over. Scoop out, then drop into a bowl of warm water while you make the sauce. Cook the ginger, garlic and chilli in the same pan, stirring for 2-3 mins until fragrant. Add the mustard seeds, turmeric, chilli powder and cumin, then cook for 1 min. Add back the paneer and stir to coat in the spices. Add 100ml of water and the mustard, bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 5 mins. Stir in the yogurt a little at a time and gently heat through. Add another splash of water if needed to loosen, then serve with rice, bread and coriander sprinkled over. PER SERVING (3) 409 kcals • fat 33G • saturates 16G carbs 6G • sugars 4G • fibre 1G • protein 23G • salt 0.5G

Honey mustard gammon with buttery lemon vegetables Get all of those glazed gammon flavours without the faff of baking a whole one. This uses a simple mixture of dijon mustard, honey and cider for a sticky sweet glaze. Use smoked or unsmoked gammon steaks depending on what you prefer – the glaze will work with both. SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 400g new potatoes 200g fine beans 1 tbsp dijon mustard 1 tbsp honey splash of cider or apple juice 2 thick gammon steaks cold-pressed rapeseed oil or other flavourless oil ½ lemon, juiced butter Boil the potatoes in salted water for 10-15 mins, adding the beans for the final 2-3 mins of cooking time. Meanwhile, whisk the mustard and honey with a splash of cider or apple juice (or just use water) to loosen. Brush the steaks with oil, then fry in a hot pan for 1 min on each side to get some colour. Remove the steaks and add the honey-mustard mixture. Let it bubble and reduce a little, then return the gammon and keep cooking and turning until glazed and sticky. Drain the vegetables and toss with the lemon juice, a good knob of butter and some seasoning. Serve the sticky gammon with the potatoes and beans. PER SERVING 698 kcals • fat 32G • saturates 12G carbs 45G • sugars 14G • fibre 7G • protein 53G • salt 7G

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Edd Kimber’s

MODERN BAKING A next-level custard tart inspired by a cult NYC iced coffee Words and recipe EDD KIMBER Photographs ANT DUNCAN

ravel has always been my main source of inspiration and, to be honest, one of my biggest sources of joy. When I come home from a trip I spend the next few months slowly recreating dishes I enjoyed, making new ones inspired by the flavours and combinations that sparked something in my imagination. Mostly these things are based on a baked good but sometimes that inspiration comes from a different source and this time it came from a cup of coffee. I was in NYC a couple months back, on my book tour, and I did a pop-up at one of the city’s hottest bakeries, Hani’s. While I was there I sampled much of what they had on offer and, while it was all incredibly good (it should be at the top of your to-visit list), this recipe isn’t inspired by one of its cakes or immaculate cinnamon buns. Instead, inspiration came from the salted maple iced latte that I became, frankly, a little obsessed with. I have taken those flavours and used it to make one very special custard tart, featuring a coffee custard topped with a salted maple cream and finished with a light sprinkle of cinnamon.

Edd Kimber is a baker, food writer and the author of seven cookbooks, including his latest, Small Batch Cookies. Find him on Substack and Instagram @theboywhobakes.

Salted maple latte tart SERVES 10 | PREP 55 MINS PLUS CHILLING AND COOLING COOK 1 HR 40 MINS | MORE EFFORT SWEET PASTRY 200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 40g icing sugar 20g ground almonds 125g unsalted butter, chilled and diced 1 large egg yolk COFFEE CUSTARD 300ml double cream 150ml whole milk 150ml very strong black coffee (preferably espresso) 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 125g caster sugar 3 large egg yolks 3 eggs SALTED MAPLE CREAM 300ml double cream 4 tbsp maple syrup 1 /4 tsp sea salt flakes TO SERVE ground cinnamon

When ready to bake, roll the pastry on a lightly floured worksurface until 3mm thick and a few centimetres wider than a 23cm-wide, 3.5cm-deep, loose-bottomed tart tin. Gently roll the pastry onto the rolling pin and drape into the tin. Roll the rolling pin over the edge of the tin to cut off the excess pastry. Dock the pastry with a fork and chill for at least 30 mins. Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Put the tin onto a baking tray. Line the tin with a piece of crumpled baking paper and fill with baking beans or rice, then bake for 25 mins. Remove the paper and beans, and bake for 5 mins or until the base is golden brown. For the custard, pour the cream, milk, coffee and vanilla into a large pan, and stir in half of the caster sugar. Put the pan over a medium heat and bring just to a boil. Meanwhile, put the remaining caster sugar, the yolks and whole eggs into a large bowl, and whisk until smooth and pale. Pour the hot cream over the eggs, whisking as you pour to prevent the eggs from scrambling. Carefully transfer the custard to a large jug.

Put the tray with the tin back into the oven and very carefully pour in the custard – it should completely fill the pastry. Bake for 55 mins-1 hr or until the edges of the custard are set and the centre is still a little wobbly. Remove from the oven and allow to cool at room temperature for 30 mins before transferring to the fridge for at least 3 hrs to cool completely. When ready to serve, whisk together the maple cream ingredients in a large bowl until it holds soft peaks. Dollop onto the tart and spread to cover most of the custard. Finish with a light sprinkling of cinnamon. The tart is best served on the day but can be chilled for a couple days if needed. PER SERVING 619 kcals • fat 48G • saturates 28G carbs 39G • sugars 23G • fibre 1G • protein 7G • salt 0.3G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

To make the pastry, put the flour, icing sugar, almonds and a pinch of salt into the bowl of a food processor, and pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the yolk and ½ tbsp of ice-cold water, and pulse until the mixture starts to hold together in small clumps but has not yet formed a dough. Tip out onto a worksurface and use your hands to bring together into a dough. Form into a disc, wrap and chill for 1 hr until firm.

Inspiration comes from a salted maple iced latte that I became a little obsessed wih

ignature ishes Our favourite creators share dishes that showcase their unique style of cooking – this issue, Santiago Lastra uses local ingredients to recreate authentic Mexican flavours

Recipes SANTIAGO LASTRA Photographs REBECCA DICKSON

Buñuelos, p54

Buñuelos

Trout tostadas

Some people call buñuelos the ugly cousins of churros as they’re unevenly shaped and full of bubbles. Sold warm on the streets of Mexico and at fairs and markets, the form, toppings and process used to make them varies from region to region but they are usually dressed in sugar or fruit syrup. In central Mexico they are large and round, about the size of a dinner plate or even bigger, and are very crunchy and usually eaten with piloncillo and guava syrup. For the sake of accessibility, the syrup in this recipe is made from oranges.

Seafood tostadas have become a staple of Mexican food and most Mexican restaurants in the world will have a tuna tostada on the menu. The crispy texture and alkaline flavour of the dried, baked or fried corn tortillas pairs brilliantly with the lean, clean flavour of a fatty fish like tuna or trout. All that’s needed is something to add spice and sourness to finish the dish. I have used poppadoms to make these tostadas as they have just the right texture and delicate flavour but you could also use pitta or corn tostadas, of course. You can make the pistachio guacamole and xnipec ahead of time – they will both keep in the fridge for two days.

MAKES 12 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS RESTING | COOK 45 MINS | EASY 500g plain flour 1 tbsp baking powder 30g caster sugar 25g unsalted butter, softened 1 egg, beaten 1 tsp vanilla extract vegetable oil, for deep-frying spray oil, for greasing 50g cornflour or plain flour SPICED SUGAR 60g caster sugar 3 tbsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp cayenne pepper ORANGE SYRUP 180g brown sugar 4 tsp elderflower cordial 1 orange, zested 50ml Cointreau or other triple sec Put the flour, baking powder, sugar and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Add the butter, egg, vanilla and 220ml of warm water, and mix with your hands until fully incorporated. Cover with a damp dish cloth and leave to rest at room temperature for 15 mins. Meanwhile, combine the spiced sugar ingredients in a bowl. For the orange syrup, combine the sugar, cordial, zest and 150ml of water in a pan, and boil for 5 mins until reduced and syrupy, then add the Cointreau and remove from the heat. Half fill a 25cm pan with oil and heat to 190C. Cut out 12 squares of baking paper, each 24cm in diameter, and spray with oil. Portion the dough into 12 balls. Dust a worksurface with the cornflour (not too much or the dough will dry out) then lay a paper square over each dough ball before rolling out into thin 22-24cm discs. Fry the buñuelos one by one in the hot oil for 4 mins on each side until golden, spooning some oil onto the top as they cook and then flipping them over halfway through. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and place on a tray lined with kitchen paper to drain the excess oil. Leave to cool slightly, then dredge them with the spiced sugar, making sure they are well covered. Serve the buñuelos warm with the orange syrup on the side.

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS RESTING | COOK 25 MINS | MORE EFFORT 8 uncooked poppadoms, corn tostadas or pittas 350g skinless trout fillet, thickly sliced vegetable oil, for deep-frying PISTACHIO GUACAMOLE 75g cherry tomatoes 5g green bird’s-eye chillies 30g spring onions 11/2 garlic cloves 50g green gooseberries or green tomatillos 100g skinless pistachios 25g coriander XNIPEC 21/2 limes, juiced 1 /2 orange, juiced 1 /4 red onion, sliced 1 /4 habanero, thinly sliced pinch of dried oregano To make the guacamole, heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the tomatoes and chillies onto a baking sheet, and roast for 10-15 mins. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. Reduce the oven to 210C/190C fan/gas 61/2. Put the spring onions, garlic and gooseberries onto a baking sheet, drizzle with a little oil, and roast for 10 mins until slightly charred. Remove from the oven and transfer to a blender with the tomatoes and chillies, pistachios, coriander and a little oil, and blitz until smooth, adding a little water if needed to loosen. To make the xnipec, combine the juices and onion in a bowl, and set aside for 30 mins. Then add the habanero, oregano and a pinch of salt, and mix. Half fill a pan with oil and heat to 200C, then deep-fry the poppadoms for 15-30 seconds until crisp and puffed up (be careful not to burn them). Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. To build the tostadas, spread some of the guacamole on the poppadoms as a base, then put an even layer of trout on top and finish with the xnipec and a pinch of salt. Serve at room temperature.

Butternut squash aguachile The sliced fish, clams or scallop usually used to make aguachile is replaced here with cooked butternut squash. It has an al dente texture and sweet finish, and is still refreshing, sour and spicy like a classic aguachile should be. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 300g butternut squash, sliced into 3cm pieces vegetable oil, for drizzling 1 tbsp pumpkin seeds 2 limes, juiced 1 orange, juiced AGUACHILE DRESSING 300g butternut squash, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes 80g caster sugar 80ml cider vinegar 2 dried bird’s-eye chillies 2 tbsp honey 50ml vegetable oil TO SERVE 20g red onion, thinly sliced 20g butternut squash, peeled and julienned 1 tsp thyme leaves 2 tsp olive oil poppadoms Heat the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9. Put the squash onto a baking sheet, drizzle with oil and season with salt, then roast for 15 mins. Meanwhile, combine all the dressing ingredients in a pan, cover with water and boil for 5 mins or until the squash is tender. Strain the mixture, then transfer the solids and 80ml of the cooking liquid to a food processor. Blitz until smooth, then pass through a sieve and chill until ready to serve. Remove the squash from the oven and reduce to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and toast for 10 mins until golden. Put the diced squash on a serving platter or separate plates, drizzle over the dressing, lime juice and orange juice, and finish with the pumpkin seeds, onion, julienned squash, thyme and olive oil. Serve at room temperature with the poppadoms on the side.

Santiago Lastra is a London-based Mexican-born chef and owner of KOL and Fonda, known for redefining modern Mexican cuisine through a global and sustainable approach. His philosophy is rooted in the belief that authentic Mexican flavours can be created anywhere using local ingredients.

Recipes extracted from Mexican Soul by Santiago Lastra (£30, Quadrille). Photographs © Rebecca Dickson. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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Autumn

gold Millionaire chocolate tart, p60

Comforting, luxurious entertaining dishes that can be made ahead for ease Recipes BARNEY DESMAZERY Photographs SAM FOLAN 59

Millionaire chocolate tart

Slow-cooked short rib chilli

Once baked, this tart has a very different character depending on the temperature it’s served at. At room temperature you have a light, mousse-like chocolate filling but chilled you have a much firmer, chocolate truffle-like centre. The layer of salted caramel is optional – actually, it isn’t, as the combination of short pastry, caramel and chocolate is like a better version of a very well known corner shop chocolate bar and I really wouldn't want you to miss out on that sensation.

Short ribs are a gorgeous cut of beef to use but they can give off a lot of fat. So to combat this, and for the best flavour, braise them a day or two before you want to eat them, then chill them – the fat will solidify on the top of the chilli and can just be lifted off. Once cooked you have two options: for a fancy dinner, serve each person with their own short rib, or you can shred the meat off the bone and stir it through the sauce. When buying ribs, get the size that the supermarkets sell, not the ones from butchers, which are way too big. If you can’t find short rib, large chunks of beef shin work just as well.

SERVES 10-12 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 1 HR 5 MINS | EASY 500g sweet shortcrust pastry plain flour, for dusting FILLING 100g unsalted butter, plus extra for the tin 100g dark chocolate (70% cocoa), broken into pieces 3 eggs 75g golden caster sugar 100g toasted hazelnuts, finely ground 150g dulce de leche or caramel spread (not sauce) sea salt flakes, for sprinkling Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface until big enough to line a 23cm fluted tart tin with some overhang. Hang the pastry around your rolling pin, then unravel it to drape over the tin. Lift and tuck the pastry into the tin and use a piece of pastry offcut to press it neatly into the edges. Sit the tin on a baking sheet, prick the base of the pastry with a fork, line with baking paper and cover with baking beans. Bake for 20 mins, remove the paper and beans, then return to the oven for 10 mins until golden. Trim the overhanging pastry while still warm. Meanwhile, melt the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of just-simmering water, or in short bursts in the microwave, stirring occasionally until smooth. Take off the heat and leave to cool slightly. Whisk the eggs with the sugar in a mixing bowl until pale and fluffy, then stir in the chocolate followed by the hazelnuts. Reduce the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Spoon the dulce de leche or caramel spread into the tart case and spread over the base to cover evenly. Sprinkle with salt, then spread over the chocolate filling and gently smooth the top. Bake for 30-35 mins until puffed and just set with a slight wobble in the centre – the filling will firm up as it cools. Leave to cool completely in the tin. MAKE AHEAD The tart can be baked the day before and kept in the tin at room temperature. Once completely cool, cover loosely with a clean dish towel. Leftovers will keep at room temperature for three days.

SERVES 6 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 3 HRS | EASY 2 tbsp sunflower oil 6 bone-in short ribs (about 2kg) 2 onions, finely chopped 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 small cinnamon stick 1 tsp dried oregano 1 bay leaf 2 garlic cloves, grated 2 tbsp ancho or chipotle paste 2 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp smooth peanut butter 1 tbsp dark brown sugar 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 400g tin of chopped tomatoes 750ml beef stock Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Heat the oil in a large casserole dish over a medium-high heat. Season the ribs with salt and pepper, and brown them in batches until well coloured on all sides. Transfer to a plate. Turn down the hob slightly and cook the onion for 8-10 mins until soft and catching on the bottom, then stir through the spices and herbs, and toast for 1 min. Then stir in the garlic, ancho or chipotle paste, tomato purée, peanut butter and sugar, and cook everything until thick and starting to stick to the pan. Add the vinegar, scraping the pan to deglaze, then stir in the tomatoes and stock. Bring to a gentle simmer, then nestle the ribs back into the sauce, cover with a lid and cook in the oven for 2-3 hrs, turning once or twice, until the meat is falling off the bone. At this point, everything can be cooled and chilled, which will mean the fat can be lifted off – otherwise try to ladle off as much fat from the surface as possible. Lift the ribs onto a plate and simmer the sauce for 10 mins to reduce a little. Taste and adjust the seasoning – you want it smoky, rich and just a little sweet. MAKE AHEAD This can be made up to three days ahead and only gets better as it sits, which also means you can easily remove the fat from it. Chill completely, then cover and refrigerate, or freeze for up to three months. Defrost fully before reheating gently until piping hot.

Wild mushroom and prosciutto lasagne In its true form as vincisgrassi this is the absolute epitome of luxury as it’s made with fresh ceps but luckily they are also available dried at a fraction of the price, making this dish a whole lot cheaper. SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 1 HR | EASY 30g dried porcini mushrooms 350ml chicken stock 2 tbsp olive oil 50g butter, plus extra for the baking dish 200g portobello mushrooms, halved and thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 12 slices of prosciutto, torn into small pieces 50g plain flour 300ml whole milk 100ml double cream small handful of parsley, roughly chopped 12 sheets of fresh lasagne 75g parmesan, grated Tip the porcini into a heatproof bowl. Bring the stock to a boil in a pan and pour it over the mushrooms, leaving to soak for 15 mins until rehydrated. Set a sieve over a bowl and strain the mushrooms into it, saving the stock. Squeeze the mushrooms gently to extract all their juices, then roughly chop them. Heat the oil and two-thirds of the butter in a wide shallow pan. Stir in the porcini and let them sizzle for a minute or two, then raise the heat and add the portobellos and garlic. Season well and cook until soft. Stir through the prosciutto and cook for another minute or two until it starts to curl slightly. Scatter in the flour and stir well to coat everything to make a thick paste. Gradually pour in the mushroom stock, letting it bubble and thicken. Stir constantly, then gradually pour in the milk, stirring until it forms a silky sauce. Simmer gently for 10 mins, stirring now and then to stop it catching. Off the heat, stir in the cream and parsley. Let the sauce cool slightly while you prep the dish. Heat the oven to 210C/190C fan/gas 7. Grease a 20cm x 20cm baking dish with the remaining butter. Lay in some lasagne sheets to cover the base, then spoon over a third of the mushroom mixture and a little sauce. Scatter with parmesan and repeat the layers twice more, saving some sauce for the top. Add a final sheet of pasta, spread over the remaining sauce (keep it mostly mushroom-free if you can) and top with the remaining parmesan. Bake for 25-30 mins until bubbling at the sides and golden on top. Crank up the heat for the last 5 mins if it needs more colour. Let the lasagne rest for a few minutes before slicing. MAKE AHEAD The lasagne can be assembled and chilled for up to two days before baking – just add an extra 5-10 mins to the cooking time if it's going straight from the fridge. It also freezes well, cooked or uncooked. Leftovers will keep for up to three days and can be reheated until bubbling.

Dorset grated apple cake Put away your pitchforks, I may not be from Dorset but I can turn my hand to a decent apple cake and the only liberty I’ve taken here is grating the apple rather than chunking it, so it blends into the cake more and keeps it moist, playing a similar role to the one a carrot plays in a carrot cake. This cake works with all apples but I think it's particularly nice with sharp Bramleys and gives you something else to do with them other than crumbles, compotes and sauces. SERVES 10-12 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS COOLING | COOK 1 HR | EASY 250g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the tin 550g apples 250g light brown sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 nutmeg 3 eggs 200g self-raising flour 1 tsp ground cinnamon 50g ground almonds 100g raisins 2 tbsp demerara sugar Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and butter and line the base of a 20cm springform cake tin. Peel the apples, then coarsely grate them down to the core into a bowl – don't worry if they brown a little. Beat together the butter and light brown sugar in a large bowl for a few minutes until fluffy. Add the vanilla and some freshly grated nutmeg, then beat in the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl if needed. Fold through the flour, cinnamon and a pinch of salt with the almonds, then the apples and raisins (if using) until combined. Spoon the mixture into the tin and level the top. Evenly scatter the demerara sugar over the surface. Bake for 50 mins-1 hr until golden and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool in the cake tin for 15 mins before transferring to a wire rack. Serve just warm or at room temperature with a spoon of clotted cream, thick yogurt or custard. MAKE AHEAD The tart can be baked the day before and kept in the tin at room temperature. Once completely cool, cover loosely with a clean dish towel. Leftovers will keep at room temperature for three days.

Recipes extracted from One Dish Four Ways by Barney Desmazery (£22. Quadrille). Photographs: Sam Folan. Food styling: Rosie Reynolds. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

Port and the Douro Valley

orto and the Douro Valley makes a brilliant two-stop trip for wine aficionados. Porto is a wellestablished destination now and most visitors never leave the city – and why would they when there is so much it has to offer? A thriving dining and drinking scene along with churches, galleries, festivals and markets, and a really lively, youthful buzz. Across the mighty Infante Dom Henrique bridge is Vila Nova de Gaia, where the informative WOW museum complex can be found, and famous port houses run tours and tastings in their historic warehouses. However, those who venture up to the Douro Valley, a couple of hours away, will be rewarded with further riches. Narrow terraces of vines, some built hundreds of years ago and still maintained in the traditional way, follow the contours of the valley’s steep slopes that weave into the rugged, breathtakingly beautiful landscape. The region is most famous for port but is increasingly making table wines made from all manner of native grapes and deeply rooted in the unique terroir. Take a day trip from Porto to visit wineries or stay a few nights at any of the quirky B&Bs, vineyard stays, historic hotels and spa resorts that dot the area. Rent a car and explore on your own terms or take the train from Porto to the pretty towns of Peso da Régua and Pinhão where you can take wine-based river boat trips.

Were t stay Tivoli Kopke Hotel, Porto Gaia In a prime spot in Gaia with fabulous views across the river to Porto, this gorgeous five-star hotel has chic rooms, a spa, one of the few outdoor pools in the area, a rooftop bar for sundowners and a glamorous jazz club for late night revelry. Choose Michelinrecommended food in the smart 1638 restaurant or go for more low-key dining at the Boa Vista Terrace – don’t miss the iconic rooster rice dish there. tivolihotels.com Quinta do Vallado Wine Hotel, Régua Just two miles from Peso da Régua, this is one of the oldest wineries in the region and is now in the hands of the sixth generation. Choose from rooms in the original manor house surrounded by gorgeous gardens, more minimalist rooms in its sleek Modern Wing, each with a private balcony, or luxurious suites in Casa da Eira nearby. There’s a pool, spa and restaurant using produce from the garden, and a variety of tours and tastings. quintadovallado.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, MARTIN THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO, @COURTESY OF CASA DO RIO, VASCO CELLO

From luxury historic estates to modern wine bars, this region is a wonderland for wine lovers

Were t eat

Libatio, Régua Despite being in this historic town where narrow streets wind up the hill from the river, Libatio wouldn’t look out of place in Hackney. A wine bar focusing on international and regional table wines rather than port, it’s where the young and switched-on winemakers hang out. Cool wines, cool music, cool vibe. libatio.pt DOC, Folgosa On the south bank of the river halfway between Régua and Pinhão, this is high-end, destination dining in a wonderful location. Great cocktails, inventive cooking, faultless service and an incredible 700+ bottle wine list – there’s even a cigar menu for postprandial puffing. docrestaurante.pt

Were t visit Quinta do Bomfim, Pinhão Conveniently located right on the river in Pinhão, Quinta do Bomfim is part of the Symington Family Estates stable and has been producing Dow’s ports from the adjacent vineyards since 1896. Its fascinating tours and tastings have won global tourism awards, as has its Bomfim 1896 restaurant with a wood-burning oven at its heart. symington.com Real Companhia Velha, Vila Nova de Gaia Founded in 1756, this is the oldest wine company in Portugal and runs various tours and tastings in its cellars, and its fascinating museum which covers the history and culture of the region. Eat afterwards at the lovely Enoteca 17.56 restaurant with panoramic views across the river and very good food. realcompanhiavelha.pt Quinta da Pedra Alta, Alijó Under new ownership since 2018, this remote estate, run by a young and innovative team making excellent modern table wines, as well as ports, is well worth a detour. Visit the winery and cellars, take an off-road vineyard tour, then enjoy a picnic at the highest point of the property with stunning views across the region. qpa.pt

Toca da Raposa, Ervedosa do Douro There’s no website for this hidden gem, family-run restaurant that’s beloved by locals for its traditional food and excellent wine list. Kid goat is its most famous dish but there’s plenty of other choice, too. Be sure to phone and book ahead, especially at weekends. +351 969 951 191

GLOBETROTTERS

From a New Orleans classic to Greek-inspired serves, take a trip around the world via your drinks cabinet Recipes HANNAH GUINNESS Photographs ANT DUNCAN

NO-SHAKE RAMOS GIN FIZZ SERVES 1 | PREP 10 MINS | MORE EFFORT 60ml London dry gin 15ml lime juice 15ml lemon juice, plus a lemon wheel or strip of peel to garnish 20ml simple syrup 5 dashes of orange blossom water 1 egg white 25ml single cream soda water, chilled

Put all of the ingredients, except the soda water, in a blender with 3-5 small ice cubes and blend until everything is well incorporated and you can no longer hear the ice in the blender. Pour 50ml of the soda water into a chilled highball glass, then slowly pour in the mixture from the blender until it reaches the rim. Put the glass in the freezer for 5 mins – this will help the cocktail settle and the head to thicken up. If you have any cocktail mixture remaining in the blender, mix it with a little soda water. Use a straw to poke a hole into the centre of the cocktail, then carefully pour in the liquid from the blender. This should cause the head of the cocktail to rise an inch or two above the rim of the glass so that it looks like a marshmallow. Garnish with a lemon wheel or twist, if you like.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

The ramos gin fizz is a classic New Orleans cocktail and it’s absolutely delicious: zesty, fluffy and creamy, it tastes like liquid lemon meringue pie. It is, however, notoriously labour-intensive, requiring lots of vigorous shaking. This method uses a blender as a shortcut but the result is just as good.

MASTIHA

SOUR

Mastiha is an ancient Greek digestif made from mastic, a resin produced from trees found on the island of Chios in the Aegean. It has gorgeous pine and minty notes that work so well in this simple sour cocktail.

SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY 60ml mastiha liqueur 30ml lemon juice, plus a strip of peel to garnish 10ml sugar syrup few dashes of orange bitters 1 egg white rosemary sprig, to garnish

Put all of the ingredients, except the garnishes, in a cocktail shaker with ice and shake hard for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled chunky tumbler, then garnish with the lemon peel twist and rosemary.

CARAJILLO

The carajillo has its roots in 19th-century Spain but is now popular across Latin America, particularly in Mexico City. A mixture of chilled espresso coffee and a vanilla-forward Spanish liqueur, Licor 43, if you’re a fan of espresso martinis then you’ll love this.

Here we’ve add mezcal and chocolate bitters for extra smoky, cocoa flavour. SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY 30ml Licor 43 30ml reposado or añejo tequila 45ml freshly brewed espresso, chilled

few dashes of chocolate bitters (optional) orange peel twist, to garnish Put the Licor 43, tequila, espresso and bitters, if using, in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake well for 30 seconds before straining into a chilled coupe or snifter glass and garnishing with an orange peel twist.

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Cointreau Spicy £26.50/700ml, Sainsbury’s Cointreau has created a chilli-infused version of its iconic orange liqueur and the results are delicious: fruity and well balanced with a kick of proper poky heat. A natural partner for a spicy marg.

Jörg Geiger Rosenzauber alcohol-free sparkling wine £6.50/200ml, charliesdrinksstore.co.uk A very drinkable 0% German perry flavoured with apple, mint and rose – it makes a very convincing non-alcoholic swap for rosé wine.

Hydes Cyder £48/12 x 330ml cans, hydescyder.com This wild-fermented cider from Hampshire is ideal as an early autumn aperitif – welcomingly gluggable but with tannic, bittersweet flavour.

Maegen Atina tumbler glass £16, anthropologie.com

Aperitif hour

Stripes are perennially chic and these tumblers will make a statement on your kitchen shelves.

Beautiful bottles and barware to take your cocktails to the next level Words HANNAH GUINNESS

Bottle opener £14.50, Oliver Bonas

Unapologetic whiskey sour £24/six 100ml cans, unapologeticcocktails.com Smooth and tart with a boozy whiskey kick, this is a well executed no-nonsense canned cocktail that really hits the spot.

A bottle opener is a home bar essential and this playful number is just the ticket.

Gold tone freestanding wine rack £49.50, Oliver Bonas This scalloped eight-bottle rack is pretty enough to make your wine collection a focal point.

Mezcal Reina espadín £69.50/700ml, mezcalreina.com

Cotswolds Wild Spritz £25/700ml, cotswoldsdistillery.com

A female-founded brand offering Oaxacan mezcal made using artisanal techniques by fourth- and fifth-generation mezcaleros. This is a lovely, accessible espadín mezcal – bright and fresh, with green herbal and fruity notes, plus delicate smoke.

This elegant English aperitivo is brimming with floral notes of lavender, orange and lemon balm, plus gentle bitterness from gentian – it’s designed to be drunk in a spritz but we found it makes a rather nice negroni, too. 73

2026 winners We reveal the winners and runners-up of olive’s inaugural awards, celebrating exceptional food-first travel destinations, hotels and experiences

Food destination WINNER SPAIN HIGHLY COMMENDED Japan

SHORTLISTED Slovenia Greece

Sustainable food destination GUEST JUDGE: MEERA DATTANI

JOINT WINNERS

THE JULIAN ALPS, SLOVENIA and PLACENCIA, BELIZE

SHORTLISTED

Alentejo, Portugal Stockholm Archipelago, Sweden

Gourmet island escape GUEST JUDGE: HEATHER STEELE

HIGHLY COMMENDED

Luxury food destination

SHORTLISTED

WINNER SRI LANKA

WINNER SICILY, ITALY Menorca, Spain Isle of Skye, UK Tinos, Greece

HIGHLY COMMENDED Switzerland

SHORTLISTED

Alto Adige/ South Tyrol, Italy Tanzania and Zanzibar

Cocktail culture city

GUEST JUDGE: MILLIE MILLIKEN

WINNER

ATHENS, GREECE

HIGHLY COMMENDED

Mexico City, Mexico

SHORTLISTED

New York City, USA Paris, France 76

Coolcation destination

GUEST JUDGE: MEERA DATTANI

WINNER FINLAND HIGHLY COMMENDED

Nova Scotia, Canada

SHORTLISTED

Quito, Ecuador Vilnius, Lithuania

Wine destination GUEST JUDGE: KATE HAWKINGS

WINNER THE DOURO VALLEY, PORTUGAL HIGHLY COMMENDED

Margaret River, Australia

SHORTLISTED

Mendoza, Argentina Jerez, Spain

European city break

GUEST JUDGE: GURDEEP LOYAL

WINNER ANTWERP, BELGIUM

HIGHLY COMMENDED Cork, Ireland

SHORTLISTED

Gothenburg, Sweden Verona, Italy

Culinary cruise route GUEST JUDGE: JAMES LITSTON

Culinary experience destination GUEST JUDGE: VERNA GAO

WINNER OAXACA, MEXICO HIGHLY COMMENDED Istanbul, Türkiye

SHORTLISTED

WINNER HX EXPEDITIONS:

IN DARWIN’S FOOTSTEPS, GALÁPAGOS, ECUADOR

HIGHLY COMMENDED

Oceania Cruises: Belfast to Lisbon Culinary Luminaries Cruise

SHORTLISTED

Havila Voyages: Coastal Journey, Norway Hebridean Island Cruises: Flavours of the Hebrides, Scotland

Austin, Texas, USA Chiang Mai, Thailand

Emergng food destination GUEST JUDGE: GURDEEP LOYAL

WINNER ESTONIA HIGHLY COMMENDED

George Town, Penang, Malaysia

SHORTLISTED

Chicago, USA Newcastle-upon-Tyne, England

Luxury train journey GUEST JUDGE: JOANNA YEE

WINNER BELMOND ANDEAN EXPLORER, PERU

HIGHLY COMMENDED

Train Suite Shiki-shima, Japan

SHORTLISTED

Northern Belle, UK The Golden Eagle Danube Express, Istanbul to Budapest via Romania 77

London gourmet escape

All-inclusive escape

GUEST JUDGE: GINA JACKSON

GUEST JUDGE: JAMES LITSTON

WINNER THE CONNAUGHT,

WINNER WILDERNESS,

MAYFAIR

ACROSS AFRICA

HIGHLY COMMENDED

HIGHLY COMMENDED Daios Cove, Greece

Raffles London at The OWO, Whitehall

Lujo, Türkiye Jade Mountain, Saint Lucia

The Newman, Fitzrovia Rosewood London, Holborn

SHORTLISTED

UK vineyard stay GUEST JUDGE: KATE HAWKINGS

JOINT WINNERS SANDRIDGE

BARTON, DEVON and TILLINGHAM, EAST SUSSEX

SHORTLISTED

Oastbrook Vineyard, East Sussex Wraxall Vineyard, Somerset

UK spa retreat GUEST JUDGE: GINA JACKSON

WINNER HECKFIELD PLACE, HAMPSHIRE

HIGHLY COMMENDED

Middleton Lodge, Yorkshire

SHORTLISTED

Gilpin, Lake District The Newt, Somerset

European rural retreat GUEST JUDGE: MILLY KENNY-RYDER

UK restaurant with rooms

WINNER LE DOYENNÉ, FRANCE

JOINT WINNERS OSIP, SOMERSET

eriro, Austria

GUEST JUDGE: MILLY KENNY-RYDER

and MÝSE, YORKSHIRE

SHORTLISTED

Updown Farmhouse, Kent Gurnard’s Head, Cornwall 78

HIGHLY COMMENDED SHORTLISTED

Castiglion del Bosco, Italy São Lourenço do Barrocal, Portugal Find out more about how we chose the winners, plus deep-dives into the destinations at olivemagazine.com/travel-and-taste

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S L O W

T R A V E L

City of sizzle, smoke and spice Street food is deeply woven into the fabric of multicultural George Town in Penang Words SUSAN LOW

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, JORDAN LYE/MOMENT/GETTY

he day starts early in George Town. It’s not just the relative cool that entices people from their beds at first light: it’s the food. Eating out – frequently, inexpensively and well – is something the city’s 800,000 inhabitants take to heart. For many, morning starts with a hunger-sating trip to Chowrasta Market, one of many local pasaran (markets). It’s a microcosm of George Town life and there’s no better place to get a taste for the Malaysian, Indian, Chinese and Straits Malay dishes that define the food culture.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: JORDAN LYE/MOMENT, INTI ST CLAIR/TETRA IMAGES

Penang, like its sister Straits Settlements of Singapore and Malacca, was built on the lucrative spice trade. Long before it became an entrepôt of Britain’s East India Company in 1786 (Penang gained independence from British control in 1957), the island was part of the Maritime Silk Road linking Asia, East Africa, the Arabian Peninsula and Europe. The spices traded along those routes underpin the local cuisine. To discover it, settle yourself on a plastic chair and pick from the scores of vendors steaming, frying and roasting all around you amid clouds of scented steam. English is widely spoken in Penang so there’s no problem ordering. A favourite breakfast dish is chee cheong fun, or ‘pig intestine noodles’ – so called because these steamed, rolled, sliced rice flour noodles resemble offal. They’re soft, slippery and chewy, and this Malay version is typically served with a trio of sauces: chilli, sweet soy and prawn paste. George Town’s historic centre is a pleasure to walk around and just a few minutes south of Chowrasta is Roti Bakar Hutton Lane. It’s not fancy – an open-air spot with shared tables – but it serves some of the best roti bakar in town. To call roti bakar mere ‘toast’ doesn’t do justice to this much-loved Malaysian comfort food. Here it’s grilled over charcoal and served in no fewer than 10 ways. The classic roti butter kaya – fluffy white bread charred, then spread with sweet coconut jam – is a good place to start. Like many Asian cities, George Town has a noodle fixation. Malaysian char kway teow – flat rice noodles, prawns, cockles, eggs and beansprouts

As dusk falls, an ordinary thoroughfare bcomes a divine chaos for hungry crowds. The air at Kimbrley Street Food Night Market is scented with sweet smoke from satay grills and sizzling woks cooked in a blazing-hot wok – is tinged with the defining smoky wok hei aroma. And, of course, there’s laksa. The stock for Penang asam (sour) laksa is made from oily fish such as mackerel with the sour tang of tamarind and pineapple, topped with fermented prawn paste. Every Penangite has their favourite vendor but Michelin-approved café Penang Road Famous Laksa draws the biggest crowds for its intensely flavoured stock with just the right smack of heat and tang. A few blocks away at Tok Tok Mee Bamboo Noodle you can watch as the noodle maker ‘rides’ a gigantic bamboo pole like it’s a carousel pony, gently pressing the dough instead of rolling it out. The dough is fed through a cutting machine, emerging in perfect fine threads in a process that blends the ancient and the machine age. The noodles are exquisitely springy and light in their prawn and pork broth. To cool off, head to Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul, a street stall selling chendul (or cendol), a multi-coloured iced concoction of red beans, green pandan noodles and cubes of grass jelly swimming in coconut milk sweetened with palm sugar. Spooning up a bowlful under the brightly painted street mural, having a bowl of cendol is the ultimate George Town way to chill on a hot afternoon. As dusk falls, an ordinary thoroughfare becomes a divine chaos for hungry crowds. The air at Kimberley Street Food Night Market is scented with sweet smoke from satay grills and sizzling woks, and excited queues form for the most popular purveyors. Some vendors display their Michelin Bib Gourmand awards, as does Super Star Koay Teow Soup for its speciality, a broth of chicken, pork, fish balls and pork liver. This pasar malam (night market) goes on until almost midnight – the city is one of the safest in Asia for strolling. Then, like some food-themed Brigadoon, the whole thing disappears.

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY, SUSAN LOWE, VU PHAM VAN/MOMENT, GARY SANDY WALES/ISTOCK, ANDERS BLOMQVIST/THE IMAGE BANK/GETTY

Street food is woven into the fabric of everyday George Town life but cocktails are done well here too – perhaps surprising as Malaysia is predominantly Muslim. Although alcohol is strictly regulated (and Muslims are forbidden from drinking), the attitude in culturally diverse Penang is relaxed. If you do drink alcohol, the bar skills here are second to none. A three-minute walk from the night market is Cocktails & Shots, a secret bar hidden behind a bookshelf in an otherwise unremarkable shopfront. One good shove and you’ll find yourself, Narnia-style, in a low-lit speakeasy with a drinks list described as “an enticing introduction to Peranakan mixology”. A Baba old-fashioned flavoured with pandan is a nightcap you’ll find nowhere else. In a cobbled courtyard in the heart of George Town stands a grand old mansion painted an appetising hue the colour of pistachio gelato. Push through the carved gilt doors and, like a kink in the trajectory of time, you’re in a different era. The Pinang Peranakan Mansion, built in the late 19th century, is a monument to a people who’ve shaped the region’s culture and cuisine. The Peranakan (or Baba-Nyonya) are descendants of early settlers from China’s Fujian region who, over centuries, adopted and absorbed the ways of the local Malays and, later, the colonial British, developing a distinctive language and unique cooking style. This opulent family house shows the important role that food played. A table is set for an elaborate meal with polished glasses and cutlery – in the kitchen, alongside enamel teapots, woks and clay pots for daily use, is a collection of intricately carved wooden moulds. These would be used to make kueh (kuih or koay), bite-size snacks usually based on glutinous rice flour.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER POKROVSKY/500PX PRIME/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Making kueh is a craft that you can witness and taste just a short walk away. Part factory and part tea house, Moh Teng Pheow Nyonya Koay was established in 1933. Watch in awe as brightly coloured kueh are prepared with precision and skill, focused squarely on beauty and delight. The first sweet taste of kueh lapis, a colourful multi-layered steamed coconut and rice flour sweet, is revelatory. A stroll around Lebuh Muntri will take you past rows of old shop houses. Some have peeling facades in stately decay, while others have been restored. George Town was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, kickstarting a wave of regeneration. Seven Terraces hotel is run by heritage-minded hotelier Christopher Ong, who transformed seven traditional houses into an elegant hotel and restaurant. At Kebaya Dining Room, ceiling fans whir in a glamorous velvet-draped room and, on the menu, Peranakan cooking gets a contemporary twist. Rich confit beef with chilli jam and refreshing crunchy green mango salad are as exquisite as the antique porcelain. Only two decades ago, Penang’s Peranakan cuisine was hard to track down in restaurants, but a new generation of chefs have revived it and made it one of the island’s main draws. You’ll recognise Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery by the selfie-taking queue outside. Chef Gaik Lean, then 69, caused a stir in 2022 when her restaurant was awarded a star in Michelin’s inaugural Malaysia guide. Her buzzy restaurant has ridden the wave of fame since then. Family-run Ceki serves heirloom recipes such as ayam buah keluak, chicken cooked with nuts from the pangium tree. The dark sauce has an earthy black olive taste. We used tiny spoons to scoop out every last bit of the flesh, slowly savouring this defining flavour of Peranakan cuisine.

blissful

boltholes

Book a relaxing weekend away at these boutique stays with fantastic food, stylish interiors and top service 88

THE RESTAURANT WITH ROOMS MÝSE, YORKSHIRE In a nutshell Pronounced ‘meeze’ and named after the Anglo-Saxon word for eating at the table, this Michelinstarred rural gem is a harmonious blend of heritage and modern. Food and drink Chef Josh Overington claims to make “elevated granny food” which, frankly, does a disservice to his intelligent, technique-heavy approach. The tasting menu is served dinner party style in a bright, minimalist dining room with botanical finishes. There are 16 covers in the main dining room and dishes are brought to tables in unison by the calm, methodical kitchen team. There’s an emphasis on pickles, preserves and ferments, as well as traditional methods and a razor-sharp focus on provenance. There are memorable talking-point dishes at every turn, including scallop in sea urchin butter and creamy curd tart. This is cerebral, exacting, original cooking, demonstrating such ingenuity as jerusalem artichoke ice cream with crispy skins and birch syrup tapped from local trees – presented in a birchwood bowl hand-carved by the chef. The attention to detail is mirrored in the wine pairings, curated by sommelier Victoria Overington in collaboration with Keeling Andrew & Co. One of the pairings is a cider pressed nearby into only 48 bottles. The team is warm, knowledgeable and personable, without being overly formal. What are the rooms like? After enjoying 15 remarkable dishes, guests can drift a short distance to rooms above the restaurant, or through the village to the newly refurbished Mýse cottage. The accommodation is airy but cosy and full of natural materials – sensitively modernised old Yorkshire.

WORDS: NATALIE HARDWICK, ALEX CROSSLEY, FIONA FORMAN. PHOTOGRAPHS: ESME MAI PHOTOGRAPHY, TIM GREEN PHOTOGRAPHY

What’s for breakfast? The breakfast is a masterstroke. It’s presented elegantly on the table in delicate elements – pâté and potted fish, home-cured charcuterie, barley porridge and a Burford Brown egg boiled to serve. There’s a touch of magic about Mýse and, true to Josh’s mission, this is food you won’t find anywhere else. restaurantmyse.co.uk

THE LONDON STAYCATION THE NEWMAN HOTEL, FITZROVIA In a nutshell A wellness-focused zen hotel in buzzy Fitzrovia. What’s the vibe? Blissfully relaxed. Staff are warm and welcoming, and the interiors are stunning – art deco glamour meets Scandi chic with soothing brown and caramel tones, locally inspired artworks and beautiful marble finishes. Food and drink Head to the hotel’s restaurant, Brasserie Angelica, for all-day dining in a bright space with a sunny terrace. Standout dishes include a wood-fired rare-breed pork chop with smoked garlic mash and a melt in the mouth hake tail with brown butter. Desserts are fun: delight your inner child and go for the cinnamon doughnut with chocolate sauce. The wine list is a corker, with European, English sparkling and orange wines. Downstairs in the fun, dimly lit Gambit bar, a DJ spins tunes while you sip a menu of classic cocktails with a twist (it’s a great spot for teetotallers as all cocktails have an alcohol-free version). Which room to book? Whether you splurge on the penthouse – complete with rooftop terrace, sauna and cold plunge pool – or book a standard room you’re guaranteed luxurious interiors and a blissful night’s sleep. Choose a pillow from the menu, enjoy a soak in the roll-top bath and relax with a mushroom coffee, and guided yoga and meditation sessions on your TV. Thoughtful local touches include London apothecary Anatome toiletries, Canton Tea sourced from small farms, organic Cru Kafe coffee and books on London. What’s for breakfast? Choose from pastries, sweet options – don’t miss the ricotta hotcakes – eggs and house-made granola with yogurt and fruit.

PHOTOGRAPHS: HELEN CATHCART, CHARLIE MCKAY

Anything else? In the basement spa you’ll feel a million miles away from central London. Join a pilates class or soothing sound bath, or simply relax in the hydrotherapy pool, sauna, salt room, steam room and ice lounge. There’s an extensive treatment menu, including CBD oil massages and a well-equipped gym if you fancy a workout. thenewman.com.

THE SPA RETREAT HECKFIELD PLACE, HAMPSHIRE In a nutshell A self-sustaining manor in the heart of a working biodynamic estate. What’s the vibe? Though swathed in grandeur – marble fireplaces, stucco ceilings, chandeliers – there’s a relaxed intimacy at this Georgian manor house. Slip between reception rooms at leisure, from teatime lemon curd and poppy seed cake to sunset aperitifs overlooking the lake. Wildlife thrives in the arboretum of majestic trees, blooming walled gardens, biodynamic market garden and farm, home to saddleback pigs and Guernsey cows. Food and drink Skye Gyngell’s legacy lives on in the self-sustaining ethos, where what is grown defines the cooking. There are two restaurants: Hearth gives the estate’s bounty open-fire treatment in grilled red mullet bruschetta and wood-roasted wild garlic chicken, while Marle offers sweeping views and the likes of trout with samphire and fig leaves. Come Sunday, the finery makes way for a buffet-style family feast. Chefs tell provenance stories as they top up plates with courgette ribbons, Somerset mozzarella and more. At Moon Bar, zero-waste cocktails are chalked on the board. Which room to book? Even the snuggest options are kitted out with private collection artwork, cosy sitting areas and garden views. Master rooms boast parlour-style dining areas and terraces with parasol-dappled loungers, plus enormous marble showers and bathtubs for soaking in Wildsmith mineral salts. What’s for breakfast? Multi-course breakfasts include freshly baked sweet treats before the likes of cardamom yogurt with poached apricots and cooked-to-order options such as grezzina courgette fritters.

PHOTOGRAPHS: DERWOOD PHOTOGRAPHY

What’s the spa like? The Bothy by Wildsmith is a no-phone zone to encourage grounding. Botanical treatments follow circadian rhythms, from vitality mornings to calm evenings. Stay on for gentle rotations of the freshwater pool, sauna and steam room, and to watch pheasants potter beneath majestic oak trees from the outdoor hydropool. Nourishing dishes include seeded rye with cultured butter and pickles, parsley oil flecked ginger broth and asparagus spears with goat’s curd. heckfieldplace.com

Estonia

PHOTOGRAPH: KARL HENDON/MOMENT/GETTY

Why I love

Oliver Saaremäel, head chef at Restaurant SOO, shares what makes the cuisine of his homeland so special

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New Nordic cuisine

Estonia’s close ties to the Nordic countries have helped shape a modern food culture centred around seasonality, local producers and wild ingredients. At the same time the country’s forests, coastline, islands and bogs give its cuisine a distinctive identity that sets it apart from its Nordic neighbours. It’s a cuisine that is increasingly attracting the attention of food lovers from around the world.

Seasonality and terroir

Estonia’s cuisine is deeply connected to nature. Around half of the country is covered by forests, while its wetlands and bogs also shape the landscape, providing seasonal wild ingredients like mushrooms, berries (such as blueberries, lingonberries and cranberries) and game meat. As a kid I loved spending time at our summer house surrounded by forests and fields, snacking on wood sorrel straight from the forest floor on the way to the beach or a friend’s house.

Cross-cultural impact

Since Estonia has been influenced by many different cultures throughout history, our traditional cuisine reflects German, Scandinavian and Russian influences. This is demonstrated in dishes such as black bread, pickled herring and rosolje (beetroot and herring salad).

Mulgikapsad

Seafood

Kiluvõileib (sprat sandwiches)

Thanks to almost 2,500 miles of Baltic Sea coastline and 2,200 lakes, Estonia’s seafood shines – herring, sprat, perch and salmon have traditionally been an important part of our cuisine.

This is a centuries-old Estonian dish of slow-cooked sauerkraut, barley and pork, often regarded as one of the country’s national dishes. It reflects the hearty, rustic flavours that have shaped Estonian cuisine for generations.

Sprat is abundant along our coastline. Usually served on black rye bread with butter, boiled egg and raw onion, this national dish is especially popular on Estonia’s Independence

Day on 24 February. While it reflects Nordic food traditions, it’s also deeply connected to the country’s own terroir and farming heritage.

Rye

Rye grows exceptionally well in Estonia’s cool climate and has long been our staple grain. We use it to make our famous black bread, as well as in crispbreads, porridges and even desserts.

Kama

Kama is a unique flour mixture made from roasted barley, rye, oats and peas, developed from ancient agricultural traditions. Today it’s often used in desserts such as fluffy kama mousse, sweetened with berries. It can also simply be mixed with buttermilk and fresh berries, which is how I enjoyed it most as a child.

Craft cider

Personally I enjoy Estonian craft ciders made from local apples, especially Jaanihanso, which is produced using the traditional method used for champagne. For me it’s the perfect drink on a warm summer day or as a welcome drink at a special event.

Kohuke

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

A chocolate-covered curd cheese snack that comes in many different flavours and fillings, Kohuke is one of Estonia’s most loved everyday sweets and something almost every child grows up eating.

Oliver Saaremäel is head chef at Restaurant SOO in rural Estonia, where he grew up. Working as a chef since the age of 17, his career has taken him to Michelin-starred kitchens in Denmark and Belgium but he’s always found himself drawn back to smaller farm-to-table restaurants.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, R TSUBIN/MOMENT/GETTY

Estonia’s foests, coastline, islands and bogs give its cuisine a distinctive identity that sets it apart from its Nodic neighbours

» READ ON FOR OLIVE’S RECOMMENDATIONS OF W H E R E T O S TAY, E AT A N D D R I N K I N E S T O N I A

WHERE TO STAY Perched in the wetlands only 45 minutes from Tallinn, this intimate nature resort encourages guests to switch off and soak up the serenity of untouched nature. There are just three villas, each distinct in design and accessible by long board walks. Complete with thatched roof, POKU is designed in the vein of its namesake Estonian fairytale characters, with its own sauna and outdoor plunge pool, while glass and ash structure KÄBI boasts a birch-fringed hot tub, and award-winning KASEKE’s roof doubles up as a multilayered terrace, built into the landscape to ensure not a single birch tree had to be cut down to accommodate. All offer plush furnishings: king-size beds, wood burners and handwoven Estonian throws to keep cosy. At the resort’s heart is an enchanting 16th-century manor, home to SOO Restaurant. With only five tables per evening, plus a few more on the terrace during summer, every dinner feels deeply personal. Eight-course tasting menus follow the seasons’ natural cycles to showcase ingredients in unexpected combinations: think smoked eel and green strawberries, grilled fallow deer and truffle, fermented redcurrants and chanterelles. Off-cuts provide inspiration for homemade infusions, combined with craft Estonian spirits to create cocktails such as juniper shrub and apple sours. For those wanting to enjoy the privacy of the villa, attentive ‘house fairies’ bring three-course dinners prepared by SOO head chef Oliver Saaremäel. This might be beef carpaccio

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followed by pan-finished fish cakes, and fresh fruit and meringue for dessert. Order your breakfast in advance (sundried tomato and fresh herb omelette, coconut oatmeal porridge or wild berry pancakes) and enjoy accompanied with an array of freshly baked breads, local cheeses, cured fish, seasonal fruit and a smoothie of the day. maidlaresort.com

Nunne Boutique

Offering a true sense of place, this 74-room boutique hotel is built around one of Tallinn’s ancient limestone walls. Rooms are therefore quirky in shape, with ‘historical’ rooms showcasing original brickwork and medieval features alongside finishing touches made by Estonian artisans. On-site restaurant Âme is a cosy cocoon of elegant Nordic design, using Estonia’s bounty of ingredients to create contemporary French-inspired dishes such as goat’s cheese and redcurrant mille-feuille, venison tartare and pikeperch with pickled fennel. A breakfast buffet showcasing local specialities is also served here, with everything from potato röstis, sprats and rye bread to apple cake, pancakes and raspberry cayenne booster shots. The basement spa boasts Finnish, aroma and steam saunas, massage pool and a relaxation area for a moment of calm between restaurant hopping. nunne.ee

PHOTOGRAPHS: TÕNU TUNNEL, IVARI PETRAUSKAS, LAURI LAAN, ÜLLE JUKK, NELE LILLEMÄE

Maidla Resort

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Fotografiska, Tallinn

Perched atop Tallinn’s contemporary photography museum, this warehouse-style space is home to plant-forward Estonian cooking. The menu includes a map of where the team is proud to source from to create the likes of pikeperch with tomato gazpacho and tomato XO sauce, roasted carrots dressed with Estonian ’nduja, and swiss roll with rooftop honey ice cream. The rooftop is home to a bar as well as a kitchen garden, from which ingredients are plucked to create the likes of pear and sage pisco sours and smooth Estonian rye gin negronis. tallinn.fotografiska.com

Valgejõe Veinivilla winery, Harju County

Run by mother and son duo Tiina and Gregor, this boutique winery in the lush Lahemaa forest turns Estonian berries, fruits and grapes into unique rhubarb sparkling wine. Book a forest tasting, take a tour or learn how to smoke fish and duck on a cooking evening for a feel of traditional rural Estonia. veinivilla.ee

Hiis, Harju County

A refined 15-course tasting experience awaits at this eco-conscious rural restaurant. Ingredients are foraged from the surrounding forests, meadows and coastline, and showcased in the menu simply presented as tomato/ramson, eel/juniper, nettle/buckwheat etc, to ensure the element of surprise is maintained throughout the evening. Retire for the night into your own villa in the Dome Meadow, kitted out with all the luxuries of a boutique hotel. hiisrestaurant.com

Pulla Bakery, Tallinn

Whether you’re in the mood for savoury focaccia slices or sweet, fluffy sourdough buns pulled straight from the oven, this cosy café makes a great sightseeing pitstop. Pair your treats with locally roasted coffee, laced if you fancy with spiced rum-based Estonian liqueur, Vana Tallinn. instagram.com/pullabakery

Moon, Tallinn

Slavic cuisine takes the spotlight at this sleek contemporary restaurant in Tallinn’s creative Telliskivi district. Try buckwheat blinis with caviar, salt-cured pork salo and handmade Siberian dumplings in wild mushroom sauce before signature chicken kyiv paired with homemade chilli adjika. Estonian drink options are plentiful, from craft raspberry wine to dry apple cider, Mohn Island poppy gin and caraway liqueur. restoranmoon.ee

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Cook like a local

EGYPT

Celebrate the cuisine of this ancient land where food is always at the centre

Words and recipes RAWAH BADRAWI and SUZANNE ZEIDY Photographs JONATHAN GREGSON

gypt is an ancient land blessed with the Nile river, two seas, the Sinai mountains and deserts in between. Regional foods reflect their terroir and histories – countless civilisations, trade routes and cultures have passed through here. The Mediterranean grand dame cities of Alexandria and Port Said have dishes with European and Levantine influences, the western coastal town of Marsa Matruh and the Saharan oasis Siwa mimic the foods and flavours of the Maghreb, while Cairo – the mother city – presents a cosmopolitan cuisine centred around its Ottoman past. Nile river farmers cook rustic food from the fields – leafy greens like jute mallow, purslane and chard are on the menu daily. The silt around the river is exquisitely fertile – no wonder Egypt was dubbed ‘the bread basket of the Roman Empire’ in antiquity. Birds are a national dish, particularly stuffed pigeons,

roast ducks and grilled quails – the latter fly over the Egyptian coastline every autumn where Bedouin trappers await them. In the Nile Delta region, rice is cooked in clay pots with cream, butter and milk, while laminated pies are drizzled with molasses. Dishes may differ from region to region but certain flavours unite the country: tasha (garlicky coriander drizzle), tasbeeka (slow cooked, lightly spiced tomato sauce) and tahina. Egyptians of all backgrounds love ful (fava beans), aish (bread) and ta’amiya (falafel): all three make up a classic breakfast served with a cup of dark sweet tea. Food is at the centre of Egyptian life, rather than a by-product of it, and people like to take their time to cook – there is always laughter and love in the kitchen. Once it’s time to sit down and eat, families and communities gather around tables of abundance, food is passed down from person to person, and the storytelling begins.

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Ful iskandarani Alexandrian fava mash

Egypt’s national dish, ful, may have existed as far back as pharaonic times but archaeobotanist Dr Mennat-Allah El Dorry explains that its first official appearance was recorded in the Greco-Roman period, among the communities of the Mediterranean coast. The centuries-old technique of simmering the beans overnight (known as ful medames) in qidras (wide-bottomed copper cooking pots) still goes on today. Alexandria’s version of ful packs tons of flavour from the generous use of fresh vegetables, herbs and spices. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tomatoes, diced 500g tin of fava beans 1 tsp ground cumin hot pitta or baladi bread, to serve

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TOPPING 1 green pepper, deseeded and diced 1 red chilli pepper, deseeded and chopped 1 red onion, diced 3 tbsp chopped parsley 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 2 small lemons, juiced, plus extra to serve Heat the oil in a medium pan over a medium heat. Cook the onion and garlic until soft and translucent. Add the tomatoes and cook for 3-5 mins. Tip in the beans with their liquid and cook for 5 mins, then add the cumin and season to taste. Press down on the beans with the back of a fork to mash them, then remove from the heat. To make the topping, put the pepper, chilli, onion, parsley, oil and lemon juice in a small bowl, and mix well to combine. Transfer the beans to a deep plate and make a dip in the middle. Pour the topping onto the dip and top with a glug of oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve with hot bread for dipping.

Sandawiche gibnasayha Rumi cheese toastie

Melted cheese sandwiches are a sentimental affair for Egyptians. They can be a breakfast staple or a midnight post-party hangover cure. Rumi is a traditional hard cheese made from cow or buffalo milk. It is Egypt’s most famous aged cheese sold in large discs with a sharp flavour like pecorino. Commonly flavoured with black peppercorns, rumi slices are sold by weight at grocery stores all over the country. The saltiness of the rumi cheese is tempered by juicy tomatoes, while the dukka adds earthy spice to this classic and indulgent Egyptian toastie. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 4 baladi breads or pittas 400g sliced rumi cheese or pecorino 2 small tomatoes, sliced handful of rocket, to serve

DUKKA 50g sesame seeds 25g coriander seeds 20g cumin seeds 10g fennel seeds 50g hazelnuts To make the dukka, toast the seeds in a dry frying pan over a medium-high heat, stirring for a few minutes until they turn golden brown. Remove the seeds to a bowl, then toast the hazelnuts until they start to brown, then remove to a bowl. Put the seeds and hazelnuts in a spice grinder with a teaspoon each of salt and pepper, and blitz until coarse. Store in an airtight container. Slice the baladi or pitta into quarters and fill each with slices of cheese. Top the cheese with a pinch of dukka in each sandwich and two slices of tomato. Place the quarters on a baking sheet and grill on medium for 5 mins. Turn over the sandwiches and cook for a further 5 mins. Serve with a side of rocket leaves.

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Basbousa Semolina cake

Basbousa, an Egyptian national dessert, whose name is derived from the Arabic words ‘just a kiss’, is a delightful semolina cake sweetened with fragrant syrup, infused with rosewater and embossed with almonds. Egyptians are not bashful about their love for sugar, heaping spoonfuls into their teas and drenching desserts in extra syrup. SERVES 8-10 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 45 MINS | EASY 150ml whole milk 200g sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 500g fine semolina flour 150g butter or ghee, melted, plus extra for the tin 100g blanched almonds ROSEWATER SIMPLE SYRUP 500g sugar ½ small lemon, juiced 1 tsp rosewater (optional) To make the syrup, bring the sugar and 400ml of water to a boil in a medium pan over a medium heat. Cook for 5 mins, then add the lemon juice and cook for 2 mins. Set aside 80ml of the syrup to use in the cake, then add the rosewater, if using, to the rest. Set aside to cool. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Butter a shallow 30cm cake tin. Whisk together the milk, sugar and the 80ml of reserved simple syrup in a pan over a medium heat for a few minutes until the sugar is dissolved. Add the vanilla then take off the heat. Put the semolina in a bowl and add the melted butter. Mix well until it resembles wet sand. Pour in the warm milk and stir to combine. Pour the batter into the tin, spreading it evenly, then put in the fridge for 20 mins. Take the tin out of the fridge and arrange the almonds on the top of the basbousa. Bake for 30 mins or until browned on top. Remove from the oven and immediately pour over some of the syrup. Leave to cool for at least 1 hr before serving.

Recipes extracted from Egypt: Recipes and Stories From an Ancient Land by Rawah Badrawi and Suzanne Zeidy (£30, Nourish). Photographs: Jonathan Gregson. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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The Highlands

SPOTLIGHT ON PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, GORDIE BROON PHOTOGRAPHY/MOMENT/GETTY, LAURIE NEWMAN

The Scottish Highlands offers rolling hills, rugged coastal paths and plenty of unforgettable food to keep you fuelled Words LUCY GILLMORE

Lucy Gillmore is a freelance travel writer and previous deputy travel editor of The Independent. She lives in the Scottish Highlands and has a particular interest in sustainable travel and meeting artisan producers from each place she visits. @lucygillmore

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BLACK ISLE BREWERY BAR, INVERNESS Downstairs, a sprawling bar scattered with huge farmhouse tables, upstairs, a roof garden strung with fairy lights and garden shed booths, this is the earthy eatery from Scotland’s first organic microbrewery over the bridge on the Black Isle. The wooden brewery on a working organic farm is a grain-to-glass story, with the barley grown in its fields. It also rears Hebridean sheep and grows produce in the ‘no dig’ garden to top the artisan wood-fired pizzas in the bar. Think venison salami with organic smoked cheddar and mushrooms, or black pudding and goat’s cheese with sage and honey – all washed down with an organic beer flight. blackislebrewery.com

“Bad girls make good cakes” is the catchphrase behind Jeni Iannetta’s coourful café stocked with devilishly indulgent bakes

PHOTOGRAPHS: CLAIR IRWIN, ALEX MACLEOD

BAD GIRL BAKERY, MUIR OF ORD Fans once made a beeline here for its gin and tonic cupcakes. “Bad girls make good cakes” is the tongue-in-cheek catchphrase behind Jeni Iannetta’s colourful café stocked with devilishly indulgent bakes, including banoffee sticky bun croissants, lemon and torched meringue cheesecake, and gooey slabs of neapolitan loaf: layers of vanilla sponge, roasted strawberry buttercream and dark chocolate frosting. She’s penned a cookbook, runs cookery classes and now has a second spot in the revamped Victorian Market in Inverness – opposite virtuous sister business the Good Girl Greengrocer. badgirlbakery.co.uk

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FISH SHOP, BALLATER Run by Ayrshire-born chef Marcus Sherry and, front-of-house, his Australian wife Jasmine, interiors are fishing themed – a shoal of willow fish suspended from the ceiling, portraits of Aberdeenshire fishermen and photos of women sorting the catch. Sustainably sourced Scottish seafood is centre stage, all handdived, creel- and line-caught. The signature snack is a moreishly sweet Macduff crab crumpet, with mains including roast Shetland halibut and lobster tagliarini. fishshopballater.co.uk

NEWHALL MAINS, BLACK ISLE One of the Highlands’ fanciest farmstays, this honey-hued 18th-century steading, on a peninsula between the Cromarty Firth and the Moray Firth, has been converted into a gourmet hotel. The restaurant, Spruce, is headed up by chef Matt Heeley, who did a stint at The Newt in Somerset. You’ll find hand-dived Orkney scallops in a shellfish bisque, linguine with Cromarty Firth lobster, Peterhead cod, Scottish asparagus and squid. Every Sunday afternoon guests can tuck into a wood-fired Sunday roast, with classic cuts from the farm slow-cooked over the Argentinian asado grill. newhall-mains.com

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Dunkeld FOODIE TOWN SPOTLIGHT

GLEN LYON COFFEE ROASTERY AND CAFÉ, ABERFELDY This rustic roastery and café has a whiff of a Wild West saloon on the covered wooden porch peppered with comfy sofas, while inside there’s a wood burner to huddle round while you enjoy single-origin espressos, pour-overs or flat whites. Fiona and Jamie Grant started roasting coffee in a shed beside their house down one of the most beautiful glens in Scotland. Today, it’s B Corp certified, with a coffee academy and trips to meet growers on the menu. Cakes and croissants are supplied by three local artisan suppliers: the Glenlyon Tea Room, Ballintaggart and the Wild Hearth Bakery. glenlyoncoffee.co.uk

Dubbed the gateway to the Highlands, Perthshire’s prettiest village with its ruined Gothic and Norman cathedral on the banks of the River Tay and jumble of restored 17th- and 18th-century cottages is also its undisputed foodie capital. The high street is a medley of butchers, bakers, smoked salmon makers, cafés, delis and wine merchants jostling for space with galleries and vintage stores. One of the stars is The Great British Bake Off semi-finalist Flora Shedden’s bijou pitstop, Aran Bakery, that’s all white tongue and groove, house sourdough, rosemary, sea salt and garlic focaccia, doorstop sandwiches and speciality pastries.

This rustic café has a whiff of Wild West salon on the covered woden porch WILD GORSE KITCHEN, BELLADRUM At Belladrum, a Highland estate near the Beauly Firth, the ancient stone steading is now home to a vibrant creative community including Julia Kirk’s Wild Gorse Flower Studio; Circa Botanica, her botanical lifestyle emporium; and, in the old potato shed, the Wild Gorse Kitchen. The menus are plant-based with breakfast specials including French toast with balsamic strawberries, black pepper, whipped cream and basil. Weekly changing topped sourdough specials have featured cherry balsamic jam, melted brie, roasted beetroot and toasted almonds, or for a vegan option, curried hummus, pomegranate, roasted cauliflower, pickled apricots, dukkah and orange zest. wild-gorse.co.uk/kitchen

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Just around the corner is Dunkeld Whisky Box, a bottle shop and tasting space for lesser-known malts. Go to Shannon’s eclectic food store for artisan rubs and spices, and a side order of “love and chat”, then to Livvi’s Little Lunchbox to pick up whisky barrel chip smoked Dunkeld salmon. Stay at The Taybank overlooking the river, once owned by Dougie MacLean, who penned Scottish folk anthem Caledonia, now a pub with Scandi-style rooms, buzzy restaurant and sprawling beer garden with firepit and outdoor cinema screen.

THE LOVAT, FORT AUGUSTUS At the western end of Loch Ness in the village of Fort Augustus, The Lovat’s fine dining restaurant, Station Road (a nod to the fact this was once an old railway hotel), is chef-owner Sean Kelly’s stage. Many of the ingredients for the exquisite seasonal tasting menus are grown in the hotel’s kitchen garden or foraged in the hills or on the banks of the loch. The bread course is the star – the signature beremeal and treacle bannock made with an ancient Orkney barley (bere) served hot from the skillet with a sea-salted butter and cod roe mousse. It comes complete with the recipe to take home on paper laced with wildflower seeds for planting. thelovat.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMES GRANT, CHRIS CLOSE PHOTOGRAPHY/PHOTODISC/GETTY

Many of the ingredients are grown in the hotel’s kitchen garden or foragd in the hills THE WALRUS & CORKSCREW, INVERNESS A peppering of pavement tables and, inside, sheepskin-strewn pews, Inverness’s first wine bar takes its job seriously. There are more than 250 wines on an eclectically curated list, with flights and tastings. The food is no afterthought either: sharing platters of local charcuterie or cheese including dry-cured venison fillet and salami from Great Glen Charcuterie and East Coast Cured in Edinburgh. Cheeses are sourced from organic family-run Connage Highland Dairy, which produces Clava brie and crowdie, and Highland Fine Cheeses with oatcakes and chutney. Owners Sarah and Rob Steadman also have a gourmet deli up the road. thewalrusandcorkscrew.co.uk

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DUN ALUINN, ABERFELDY Architect and interior designer Susie Whyte and her husband John Burke who, handily, owns an award-winning construction firm, transformed this grand old house into a design-led exclusive stay – now relaunched as a gourmet hotel. Chef John Christie grew up on a farm and provenance is key here. With a house party vibe, dinner at the long communal dining table displays their passion for local and seasonal produce, such as West Coast brown crab with fermented daikon, garden radish and dill, or salt-baked beetroot, goat’s curd and pomegranate molasses with candied pecans. dunaluinn.com

Wih a house party vibe, dinner at the communal dining table displays their passion for local produce THE DIPPING LUGGER, ULLAPOOL A popular pitstop on the NC500 roadtrip, Ullapool on the west coast, once the hub of a thriving herring industry, is home to this destination restaurant-withrooms. In an 18th-century manse named after a traditional fishing vessel, The Dipping Lugger hosts chef David Smith’s tasting menu showcasing scallops plucked from Loch Broom’s salty waters alongside dishes such as pan-fried cod with baked lemon, handrolled pasta and tiny shrimp. Owners Robert Hicks and Helen Chalmers also have a micro-distillery. Their signature Seven Crofts gin is named after Ullapool’s seven original homesteads, while Fisherman’s Strength has notes of ripe blaeberries and cracked black pepper. thedippinglugger.co.uk

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THE OLD BRIDGE INN, AVIEMORE On the edge of the Cairngorms’ outdoor capital, Aviemore, beside the River Spey, this popular gastropub and bunkhouse is famous for its live music, and prides itself on its locally sourced and reared produce. Highland lamb koftas with a bulgur wheat salad and mint yogurt dressing, and Edinvale Farm grassfed Scotch beef fillet, rosemary-scented mushrooms, roast vine tomatoes and twicecooked hand-cut chips have all graced the menu. There’s lot of local ales on tap and, naturally, a great selection of malt whiskies. oldbridgeinn.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS: WILL SCOTT PHOTOGRAPHY, ALEXANDER BAXTER, CATRIONA PARMENTER PHOTOGRAPHY

At night the space morphs into a craft cocktail bar wih espresso martinis and mini doughnuts

PERK COFFEE + DOUGHNUTS, INVERNESS During the day this is a popular pitstop for a flat white and artisan doughnut. The dough is proved for 24 hours and the glazes, fillings and toppings are all made in-house, too. Choose the signature Old Faithful dipped in cinnamon sugar or go for one of the specials that makes the most of seasonal fruit or recreates classic desserts. At night the space morphs into a craft cocktail bar with espresso martinis and mini doughnuts on the menu. perkcafe.co.uk

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SUNDOWNER CITIESS

ATHENS, GREECE

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Explore these must-visit destinations for next-level bars, stellar cocktails and homegrown spirits Words MILLIE MILLIKEN

PHOTOGRAPHS: GEORGE PACHANTOURIS/MOMENT, TORRESIGNER/ISTOCK UNRELEASED/GETTY, WILL SALKELD, DIMITRIS VLAIKOS

With 4,000 years of wine prowess behind them, the Greeks know the importance of homegrown drinks. From a glass of assyrtiko, malagousia or xinomavro to a sip of its piney tree resin liqueur, mastika, and its aniseed digestif ouzo (which I enjoy best in an ouzito – a Grecian riff on a mojito) you don’t have to look far to drink well. Its capital Athens has recently drawn the attention of cocktail lovers who make pilgrimages to its ‘cocktail triangle’ on the outskirts of the Acropolis. With access to some of the most vibrant ingredients in the Mediterranean – tomatoes, olives, figs, peaches, oregano – bartenders are translating local flavours into innovative cocktails. Your first stop should be sprawling The Clumsies, which serves up the likes of Greek salad-inspired gimlets and vivid blue Aegean negronis. Nearby is The Bar in Front of the Bar where daily menus work around a zero-waste ethos and are supped outside in true Athenian style. Once the sun goes down I like to end my evening at Baba Au Rum where you have your pick of 400 rums – and a 3am closing time. Be sure to also swing by Line for house-made wines made from fruit and veg, and classic-leaning cocktails showcasing by-products and ingredients made in the on-site lab. Set in a former art gallery, it nails industrial cool too. While staying in the city allows for late-night imbibing, try the Four Seasons Astir Palace on the chic Athens Riviera if you like the sound of lapping water as you recover from a night on the town. Its open, airy bar Avra, which celebrates ingredients grown in the grounds – mint, rosewood, grass – is worth a trip alone.

MEXICO CITY, MEXICO Mexico is having a well-deserved gastronomic moment – anyone who has had the simple joy of trying a street-side birria taco and tejuino (a sweet and sour fermented corn drink) will know why. But while its cuisine is being celebrated in high-end restaurants at home and around the world, its national spirits and lively style of hospitality are drawing tourists to its high-altitude capital to experience the dizzying heights of Mexico City’s burgeoning cocktail scene. With an ancient drinks history dating back to Aztec times, Mexico has an embarrassment of liquid riches to pull from behind the bar. Agave spirits like tequila, mezcal, raicilla and more are naturally high on the list of local drinks to try. If you really want to level up your knowledge, book yourself into a tasting experience at Salón de Agave run by agave specialist Megs Miller and her team. When it comes to cocktails, the Roma Norte and La Condesa neighbourhoods are where it’s at. Stay at the nearby Casona Roma Norte, set in a restored rose-pink 1920s mansion, and you’ll have your pick of nearby drinkeries. Dark and other-worldly, Tlecan is one of the best agave bars I’ve visited in recent years (don’t sleep on the Pulque Colada), while Licorería Limantour is vibey and turns out Mexican cocktails alongside classics with a twist: the Margarita Pastor with taco mix is a personal favourite. The garnish game at Rayo is unrivalled – and it has gorgeous views to boot – and don’t leave without a visit to Bar Mauro where you’ll be transported to 1970s Milan via aperitivo with a Mexican nod.

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NEW ORLEANS, USA

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, STEVENS FREMONT, THE IMAGE BANK, TWENTY47STUDIO/MOMENT/GETTY, ALYSSA FORBES PHOTOGRAPHY

There might not be a city in the USA more soaked in boozy history than New Orleans. As well as being famous for jazz, Louisiana voodoo and sugary beignets, it is also home to some of the most loved cocktails in the world, from the sazerac and ramos gin fizz to the grasshopper, hurricane and vieux carré. These days, while these historic cocktails are still rightly celebrated in bars across the city, there is also a more modern cocktail movement to enjoy right alongside it. Jewel of the South from bartending legend Chris Hannah serves contemporary New Orleans fare alongside its famous brandy crustas, while Uptown’s Cure is the spot for more classic cocktails and simple snacks. Be sure to check out some of the classics too: an absinthe frappé at the historic Absinthe House is a great cool-down stop in the French Quarter, as is a frozen Irish coffee at the divey Erin Rose with a po’boy to boot. A turn on the moving bar and vieux carré at The Carousel Bar & Lounge is a must, and be sure to swing by The Roosevelt Hotel for a sazerac or ramos gin fizz (or both) at the Sazerac bar too. You’ll never be more grateful for air con.

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TAIPEI, TAIWAN When you think of Taiwanese drinking culture, the first thing that might spring to mind is tea. From producing world-class oolong teas to being the birthplace of the now global phenomenon bubble tea, this East Asian island is home to tea houses, tea museums and tea markets where locals and tourists alike can enjoy a brew. Its local beer, as well as gaoliang (a fermented sorghum spirit), are well worth a try but its capital city’s cocktail bar scene is a burgeoning one and the young Taiwanese crowd can be guaranteed to provide a lively night out in Taipei too. A pioneer of the contemporary cocktail movement, Aki Wang and his bar Indulge Experimental Bistro is where you can discover how tea works in mixed drinks as he uses native varieties in liqueurs behind the bar. Tei by Obond also embraces Taiwan’s tea heritage with a teahouse showcasing teas fermented, carbonated or distilled, as well as a bar where wine is the inspiration and local ingredients are brought to life in cocktail form. Cool cocktails on tap can be found at Draft Land, while the tongue-in-cheek To Infinity and Beyond is where you’ll find beverages replete with liquid nitrogen, air and foams. If you’re staying at Capella Taipei, don’t miss its bar, The Glasshouse, which actually isn’t in the hotel at all but features three distinct cocktail drinking experiences that are well worth the 150-metre trip from the front door.

For our full list of the best cities for cocktails, head to olivemagazine.com. 119

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This tour is a wonderful blend of some of the finest sights in northern Italy. Firstly Lake Garda, where waves lap gently on the shingle shoreline, with the snow-capped Dolomite mountains in the background; then Venice, a unique city full of cultural delights such as the Doge’s Palace, St Mark’s Basilica and the Grand Canal; and lastly Verona, one of the most romantic cities you will ever find and so appropriate as the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet.

A spectacularly beautiful tour taking in the villages and islands of Maggiore, Italy’s most sophisticated lake, visits to Lakes Como and Orta, plus breathtaking Alpine scenery, the chic Swiss resort of Zermatt and the iconic Matterhorn.

TOUR INCLUDES • Return flights from a selection of regional airports with hotel transfers • Seven nights in a choice of four-star to four-star superior accommodation inclusive of all local taxes • Stays at Hotel Kristal and Savoy Palace are offered on a half board basis. The Portici, Antico Borgo and Astoria Park are on breakfast-only basis. The Europa is half board for 2026 and will be breakfast only in 2027 • The services of our experienced and insightful tour manager EXPERIENCES • Guided tours of Venice and Verona • Visits include a selection of villages on Lake Garda, the Dolomites and a tour of a local vineyard with a tasting

TOUR INCLUDES • Return flights from a selection of regional airports with hotel transfers, plus porterage of one item of luggage • Seven nights’ accommodation in a four-star hotel, inclusive of local taxes • Daily breakfast and three dinners in local restaurants (five dinners in local restaurants for 2027 tours) • The services of our experienced and insightful tour manager EXPERIENCES • Guided tour of Isola Bella’s baroque villa • Six visits including Lake Como, Cannobio, the gardens at Villa Taranto, Isola dei Pescatori, Lake Orta and Zermatt • Cruise to the enchanting Borromean Islands • A visit to Villa Carlotta’s beautiful gardens, with included entrance to view its magnificent private art collection (2027 only)

To request a brochure, call 01283 742398 quoting ‘olive’ or, to book, visit rivieratravel.co.uk/OLM TERMS AND CONDITIONS Prices are per person based on two sharing a room. Additional entrance costs may apply. All holidays subject to availability. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. Operated by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Tours Ltd, ABTA V4744, ATOL 3430, IATA 9127440. Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton-on-Trent DE14 1SP. Prices correct at time of print.

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{MY NEIGHBOURHOOD}

Heather Steele’s

guide to BLOOMSBURY

am drawn to Bloomsbury more than anywhere else in London because it has everything I love: museums, excellent bookshops and some of the capital’s greatest restaurants. Despite all those assets, it also feels quieter than the rest of central London thanks to its green squares and rows of Dickensian townhouses. Here are some of my favourite places to eat, drink and explore in this historic part of town.

NOBLE ROT Launched by the team behind the indie wine mag of the same name, the drinks choice is expansive and exciting. The food leans Franglais (think comte tart or lemon sole with seaweed butter) and its £24 set menu is one of the best-value lunches in town. In the evening its cosy bar is just the place for a glass or two, alongside plates of cheese and charcuterie, and an end of night scoop of chartreuse ice cream. noblerot.co.uk CAFÉ DECO Chic and unfussy, this restaurant, bar and wine shop is all about low-key dining. Run by the 40 Maltby Street team, it serves up dishes including roast chicken with caesar salad, and brown butter tart with strawberries. Californian chef Augusta Hood now adds a retro Americana feel to the menu too. cafe-deco.co.uk CIAO BELLA Open since 1983, Ciao Bella serves huge portions of classic Italian dishes and is a local favourite for the full chequered tablecloth and limoncello shots at the end of the meal experience. The food might not be the best Italian food you’ve tried in London but the amatriciana is excellent, and a live pianist makes this a memorable experience. ciaobellarestaurant.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS: PATRICIA NIVEN, HEATHER STEELE

ST JOHN x LONDON REVIEW BOOKSHOP St John has taken over the much-missed Cake Shop inside the London Review Bookshop. As well as its doughnuts (order the vanilla custard), the famous made-to-order madeleines are available in the afternoons, with drinks and snacks on the menu until 7pm. londonreviewbookshop.co.uk ZETTER BLOOMSBURY In a series of striking Georgian townhouses, Zetter’s newest hotel has a web of bold bars and lounges to enjoy a cocktail, sink into a fireside sofa and eye up the antique artworks. Many bedrooms have rolltop baths at the foot of the beds – just the place to read a book in London’s literary hub. thezetter.com

THE BRUNSWICK CENTRE For fans of brutalist architecture, the Brunswick Centre is fun to explore, and home to Skoob Books and the original 1970s Curzon cinema, with one screen dedicated entirely to documentaries. Later this year Ravinder Bhogal of Jikoni is launching Karam’s, a South Asian vegetarian restaurant serving thalis and craft breads. brunswick.co.uk THE LAMB One of London’s oldest pubs (it’s been pouring pints for 300 years and has served everyone from Sylvia Plath to Charles Dickens), The Lamb is a pictureperfect proper boozer – think antique snob screens and wood panelling. Just the place for a homemade scotch egg or a Sunday roast. thelamblondon.com LA FROMAGERIE After a ski holiday in France, Patricia Michelson’s returned to London with a 35kg wheel of beaufort in her car boot, which she sold from her garden shed. Now she has a cheese empire in London. Her Bloomsbury shop is the perfect place for picking up picnic bits to enjoy on Coram’s Fields. lafromagerie.co.uk HONEY & CO Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich moved their much loved Middle Eastern restaurant from Warren Street to Lamb’s Conduit Street a couple of years ago – and it’s as good as ever. As well as serving the kitchen’s classic meze and signature feta and honey cheesecake, this Bloomsbury site is big on breakfast. My go-to? The sabich: fried aubergine marinated in chilli and garlic dressing served with pitta, tahini and a fried egg. honeyandco.co.uk MASTER WEI Headed up by Guirong Wei, co-owner of Islington hotspot Xi’an Impression, Master Wei serves classic Shaanxi dishes. Try its signature thick biangbiang noodles, available in both beef and veggie varieties. master-wei.com

Heather Steele is a writer covering food, travel, books and trends. She was SheerLuxe’s first ever lifestyle director and is now a contributing editor. Find her on Instagram @steeleheatherrr or subscribe to her newsletter, Crisp Packet, on Substack.

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CITY BREAK

VERONA

Insider Gurdeep Loyal shares his favourite spots to eat and drink in this romantic Italian city

visited Verona for the first time 10 years ago and I fell in love with its ancient splendour, atmospheric alleyways and dynamic gastronomic scene. I’ve been back many times and the city always surprises me with how it upholds its heritage yet is also very contemporary. It’s had a culinary revolution in recent years and now tops nearby Venice and Padua with its gourmet credentials.

Clockwise from above: a view of Verona’s Ponte Pietra bridge and the Adige River; a beef dish at Michelinstarred Il Desco; Pizzeria da Vincenzo; interiors at Il Desco; a seafood meal overlooking Piazza delle Erbe

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THE MORNING CLUB

This legendary Verona gem serves up some of the best artisanal pizza in Italy. Vincenzo mills his own blend of spelt and wheat flours to create a signature airy crust. Don’t miss the ’nduja, friarielli (Italian turnip greens) and gorgonzola, or the classic tonno e cipolla with chunks of tuna and thinly sliced onions. pizzeria-da-vincenzo.jimdosite.com

TRATTORIA AL POMPIERE

This industrially hip coffee shop rotates its speciality beans multiple times a month – partnering with artisanal roasteries across Europe. The menu always has three different filter coffees and three different espressos – or all six at the Sunday coffee cupping tastings. The plant-based kitchen serves up a very good hummus toast and heavenly bakes like the cinnamon apple cake. amzcaffe.com

TRATTORIA FLUVIALE VECIO MULIN

This family-run restaurant in a 15th-century palazzo cooks up Michelin-starred Veronese gastronomy. The kitchen champions a minimalist, seasonal philosophy with dishes like sea bass with morel mushrooms and suckling pork shoulder with juniper and glazed pears. The deconstructed tiramisù rivisitato is as marvellous to eat as it is to photograph. ristoranteildesco.it

There’s something comfortingly nostalgic about the checkered tablecloths and walls of vintage photographs that greet you in Trattoria al Pompiere. The menu showcases traditional slow-cooked dishes from the region, like guancia di manzo, tender braised beef cheek and risotto all’amarone cooked in local wine. It also has over 35 cured meats and 100 regional cheeses. alpompiere.com

This romantic Verona institution, located along the banks of the Adige, has some of the most cinematic views in the city. A menu of Veronese comfort dishes has a focus on fresh seafood. Don’t miss the squid ink linguine with black garlic and shrimp, or the baked sardines with sweet onions, pine nuts and sultanas. veciomulin.com

ABAZIA VINI

This vibrant natural wine bar is situated in a picturesque square opposite the Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore, away from the crowds. Its outdoor seating is the perfect spot to try low-intervention wines and plant-forward cooking, including crispy farinata, cannellini bean meatballs and schiacciate breads loaded with seasonal toppings. @abaziavini PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, NICOLA PERANTONI

PIZZERIA DA VINCENZO

The sleek polished wood and marble aesthetic of The Morning Club, in the heart of historic Verona, echoes its masterful viennoiserie. Try fragrant cinnamon rolls, the photogenically layered pain au chocolat or the puff pastry nodino knots with coconut mousse and raspberries. The single-origin pour-over coffees are outstanding, as are the iced dirty matcha lattes. @themorningclubverona

PASTICCERIA FLEGO

No visit to Verona is complete without a trip to Pasticceria Flego, whose glass counters showcase finely crafted French-Italian patisserie. It is famous for its Seven Veils chocolate cake, which combines seven layers of flavour and texture, as well as its Russian cake, and almond and hazelnut Romeo and Juliet kisses. pasticceriaflego.net

AMMAZZA CAFFÉ

RISTORANTE IL DESCO

INKA

Peruvian chef Gabriel Zevallos’ restaurant fuses Latin American ingredients with Japanese and Chinese influences in dishes like nigiri nikkei – seared scallops with sweet and savoury aji amarillo and ponzu. The star dessert is King Kong: a salted shortcrust pastry with dulce de leche mousse, sweet potato cream and pineapple sorbet. inkarestaurant.it

TRE MARCHETTI TRATTORIA

This trattoria has been serving its rustic cuisine since 1909. Its wood-panelled dining room features murano glass chandeliers and hand-painted murals, a theatrical setting for dishes like Veronese hunter-style duck sauce pasta and armagnac flambéed prawns with black truffle. tremarchetti.com

Gurdeep Loyal is a food and drink trends specialist who has worked at Harrods Food Halls, Innocent Drinks and M&S Food. His latest cookery book, Flavour Heroes, is out now. Follow him on Instagram @gurd_loyal.

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EASY SEASONAL NOURISHMENT Speedy recipes to give your gut health a boost Recipes KATY GREENWOOD Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

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Amaranth porridge with blackberry and ginger compote, p126

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Amaranth porridge with blackberry and ginger compote Amaranth is an ancient grain with some major health benefits: it is naturally gluten-free and high in protein, fibre and antioxidants. It also has prebiotic properties which promote gut health. This porridge is easy to make and has a little more bite than regular oat porridge, though I’ve added oat milk as it gives a lovely creamy flavour but any milk or milk drink will work. The compote can be made ahead of time and will thicken as it cools. SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY 100g amaranth 100ml oat milk COMPOTE 300g blackberries 50g golden caster sugar ½ lemon, juiced 25g ginger, peeled and finely grated Put the amaranth and 300ml of water in a pan and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat to low, cover with a lid and simmer for 20 mins, stirring occasionally – keep an eye on it for the last 5 mins as it may absorb all the water. Add the oat milk and cook, stirring, for another 5 mins. Meanwhile, put the compote ingredients in a pan over a low heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to a simmer, stirring every so often, for 10 mins or until the blackberries are soft and it's very syrupy. Divide the amaranth between two bowls and top with the compote. Any left-over compote will keep in the fridge for up to two weeks. PER SERVING 370 kcals • fat 5G • saturates 1G carbs 66G • sugars 35G • fibre 10G • protein 9G • salt 0.1G

Crispy five-grain Thai-style salad This zingy salad makes a simple midweek dinner. I like the beans with some bite to them but if you prefer them to be more cooked then blanch in boiling water for 2-3 minutes. The mixture of high-fibre grains promotes digestion and helps you to feel full. Ginger and turmeric in the dressing help to reduce inflammation, speed up digestion and feed beneficial gut bacteria. SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 250g pouch of mixed cooked grains (we used Merchant Gourmet 5 Glorious Grains) 1 tbsp sesame oil 225g firm tofu, torn into chunks 100g fine green beans, sliced diagonally into short lengths 8 cherry tomatoes, halved 1 shallot, halved and finely sliced handful of mint leaves handful of coriander leaves DRESSING small garlic clove, finely grated 20g ginger, peeled and finely grated 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 tbsp fish sauce 1 lime, juiced 1 tbsp soft brown sugar Heat the grains following pack instructions and set aside to cool slightly. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7, line a large baking tray with baking paper and spread out the grains to cover two-thirds of the tray. Drizzle over half the oil, then toss the tofu with the remaining oil and arrange on the empty third of the tray. Bake for 15 mins, turning the grains and tofu halfway through. Meanwhile, put the beans in a heatproof bowl, pour over boiling water and set aside. Stir together all the dressing ingredients in a small bowl until the sugar has dissolved.

PER SERVING 544 kcals • fat 21G • saturates 4G carbs 56G • sugars 16G • fibre 10G • protein 28G • salt 4.1G

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SHOOT DIRECTOR: FREDDIE STEWART. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

To serve, drain the beans and put in a large serving bowl with the remaining ingredients, the grains and tofu. Pour over the dressing and toss together.

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Buckwheat oat cookies Soft on the inside with a crispy exterior, these sweet and salty cookies are perfect for those who don’t have a sweet tooth but want a little pick-me-up with a cuppa or a quick fix at breakfast. Buckwheat flour is naturally gluten-free and a great prebiotic, and oats and dried apricots both aid digestion They also contain walnuts, which help feed those good gut bacteria. MAKES 12 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 125g unsalted plant-based butter 100g golden caster sugar 1 egg 150g buckwheat flour 150g jumbo rolled oats 100g soft dried apricots, chopped 50g walnuts, chopped 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda Heat the oven to 180C /160C fan/gas 4 and line one large or two small baking trays with baking paper. In a large bowl, beat together the butter and sugar until creamy, then beat in the egg. Stir through the remaining ingredients plus 1/2 tsp of salt and, with dampened hands, roll into 12 balls. Squash them down into thick discs on the prepared baking tray and bake for 20 mins until just turning golden. Leave to cool a little and they will firm up more. PER SERVING 255 kcals • fat 13G • saturates 6G carbs 29G • sugars 12G • fibre 2G • protein 5G • salt 0.7G

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5 nutrients for

glowing skin Nutritionist and ex-model Erica Rodriguez on the must-eat ingredients for a complexion boost

PHOTOGRAPHS: CURLY PHOTO/MOMENT, NABIHA DAHHAN/WESTEND61/GETTY

Words ERICA RODRIGUEZ

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aving worked as a model for many years, looking after my skin was always a priority – it came with the territory. In my mid-twenties, however, I went through periods of inflamed skin and recurring breakouts that prompted me to dig deeper into the underlying factors affecting my skin. Those experiences sparked my interest in skin health and holistic healing, eventually leading me to train as a nutritionist. I became increasingly fascinated by the relationship between the foods we eat and the way we look and feel, from energy and digestion to hormone balance and skin health. These days I look after my skin by approaching it from a food-first perspective. While I enjoy a good skincare routine, I see topical products as an addition to how I support my skin from within, not the other way around. After all, healthy skin is built from the nutrients we eat every day. When it comes to nutrition, I focus on three key areas. Firstly, antioxidants, which help protect the skin from environmental damage and oxidative stress that can accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin. Secondly, skin barrier support, with plenty of healthy fats to nourish cell membranes, reduce water loss and keep skin hydrated. And finally, structure and repair. Skin is built from protein, so ensuring adequate intake of protein and collagen-supporting nutrients provides the building blocks needed to maintain firmness, elasticity and healthy skin renewal. With those three pillars in mind, here are some key nutrients I prioritise for healthy, glowing skin.

its bright orange colour is masked by chlorophyll. Beta-carotene is fat-soluble, meaning it is best absorbed when consumed with a source of healthy fat. A drizzle of olive oil over roasted squash, a handful of nuts and seeds in a salad, or greek yogurt served with mango and papaya can all help enhance absorption. Because beta-carotene can be stored in body tissues and gradually deposited in the skin, regular consumption of foods rich in beta-carotene help build up the skin’s antioxidant defences over time.

NUTRIENT: LYCOPENE

WHAT IT DOES FOR YOUR SKIN This powerful antioxidant helps protect the skin against UV-induced damage and is sometimes referred to as an ‘internal sunscreen’ because it can enhance the skin’s natural defences against the effects of sun exposure. Regular consumption of lycopene-rich foods has been shown to reduce the severity of sun-induced redness and support the skin’s resilience to UV damage. While it should never replace sunscreen, it can provide an additional layer of protection from within and may help slow the processes involved in photoaging.

Vitamin C i one of the most important nutrients for healthy, youthfullooking skin

NUTRIENT: BETA-CAROTENE

WHAT IT DOES FOR YOUR SKIN A potent antioxidant and precursor to vitamin A, beta-carotene helps to strengthen the skin’s natural defences against sun-induced damage. Once consumed it accumulates in the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin), where it helps neutralise free radicals generated by UV exposure and other environmental stressors. Beta-carotene may also help protect collagen by reducing the activity of enzymes responsible for its breakdown, helping to maintain skin structure and elasticity. YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT Beta-carotene is responsible for the vibrant yellow and orange pigments found in many fruits and vegetables. Excellent sources include carrots, sweet potatoes, butternut squash, mangoes, papaya, apricots and cantaloupe melons. It is also abundant in dark green leafy vegetables such as spinach, kale and chard, where

YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT Tomatoes are one of the richest dietary sources of lycopene and, interestingly, cooking increases its bioavailability. As lycopene is a fat-soluble nutrient, pairing tomatoes with a source of healthy fat, such as olive oil, can further enhance absorption. Some of the best sources include tomato purée, passata, even a good-quality ketchup – but sun-dried tomatoes top the list. Other lycopene-rich foods include watermelon, pink grapefruit and guava.

NUTRIENT: OMEGA-3

WHAT IT DOES FOR YOUR SKIN Omega-3 is my go-to nutrient for dry skin. These essential fats are known for their anti-inflammatory properties and their role in maintaining healthy skin. One of their most important functions is supporting the skin barrier, helping to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and keep skin hydrated. Low omega-3 intake has been associated with a compromised skin barrier, which can contribute to dryness, flakiness and irritation. For this reason foods rich in omega-3 are often one of the first things I look at when someone presents with dry, scaly skin.

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YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT Omega-3 fatty acids are essential nutrients, meaning the body cannot produce them and they must be obtained through diet. The three main types are EPA, DHA and ALA. EPA and DHA are the most biologically active forms and are found primarily in oily fish. To remember the best sources, think SMASH: salmon, mackerel, anchovies, sardines and herring. Good plant food sources include ground flaxseed, chia seeds, walnuts, hemp seeds and algae-based foods and supplements. To maximise your intake, add ground flaxseed or chia seeds to porridge, yogurt or smoothies, and aim to include oily fish in your diet at least once or twice per week.

NUTRIENT: VITAMIN C

WHAT IT DOES FOR YOUR SKIN Vitamin C is one of the most important nutrients for healthy, youthful-looking skin. Fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen, depend on vitamin C to synthesise and maintain this structural protein, which helps support skin firmness and elasticity. Vitamin C is also a potent antioxidant, helping to neutralise free radicals generated by UV exposure, pollution and other environmental stressors. In addition, it plays a role in reducing pigmentation by helping to regulate the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production. YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT Some of the richest food sources of vitamin C include kiwis, strawberries, cherries, red peppers, watercress, broccoli, spinach, citrus fruits and guava. Vitamin C is quite an unstable compound that begins to decline once foods are picked, cut or exposed to air. Because it is also sensitive to heat and light, prolonged cooking can significantly reduce its content. To maximise your intake, enjoy foods rich in vitamin C raw where possible or lightly steam vegetables rather than boiling them.

NUTRIENT: PROTEIN

WHAT IT DOES FOR YOUR SKIN Protein is a macronutrient and is essential for skin repair and maintaining the scaffolding of the skin. Amino acids, the building blocks of protein, are required to make collagen and elastin: the proteins responsible for keeping skin firm, strong and resilient. Key amino acids involved in collagen production include glycine, proline and hydroxyproline. Inadequate protein intake can impair skin repair, slow wound healing and compromise the skin’s ability to regenerate and maintain its structure. Put simply, if you’re not consuming enough protein, your body lacks the raw materials needed to build and maintain healthy skin and muscle.

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Add ground flaxseed or chia seeds to porridge, yogurt or smoothies YOUR SECRET INGREDIENT Aim to include a quality source of protein at every meal. Excellent sources include eggs, fish, poultry, lean meat, greek yogurt, cottage cheese and dairy products, as well as plantbased options such as tofu, tempeh, edamame beans, lentils, chickpeas and beans. Pairing protein-rich foods with fruits and vegetables rich in vitamin C can further support collagen production, making combinations such as greek yogurt and berries, lentil salad with red peppers, or salmon served with broccoli and watercress particularly skin-friendly choices.

Erica Rodriguez is a London-based registered nutritionist specialising in skin, gut and hormonal health, and the author of Nourished Kitchen, her debut cookbook. She is the founder of Naturally Nourished, a wellness platform where she shares her love for wholefood cooking (naturallynourished.co.uk). Follow Erica on Instagram @naturallynourishedlondon.

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goodfood.com 133

IS PRESERVED FOOD GOOD FOR YOU?

The autumn harvest is when we traditionally use up gluts of fruit and veg to make jams and pickles, or stock up the freezer. But what happens to the nutrients in our produce when it’s preserved? Words EMMA HARTFIELD 134

ost of us now know that frozen is typically just as healthy as fresh, and that tinned food also counts towards all your five-a-day and 30-a-week goals. But what about other methods of food preservation? Do your pickles, chutneys, jams and ferments also help to keep you healthy, or is fresh the best when it comes to getting your vitamins? There’s one interesting benefit to all preserved food, which will be of particular interest to irritable bowel syndrome sufferers. Gastrointestinal physiologist Jordan Haworth, aka Mr Gut Health, explains: “Preserved foods are easier to digest. For example, FODMAPs are fermentable compounds found in foods like cabbage, onions and beans. When bacteria ferment these they produce gas. This is fine for most people, unless you have a sensitive gut, such as in IBS. The good news is canning beans, pickling onions and fermenting cabbage (such as sauerkraut) reduces the FODMAP content naturally, unlocking more nutrition and causing less of the bloat.”

CAN JAM BE HEALTHY?

Whether it’s a chutney, a jelly, a marmalade or a compote, you need to check the ingredients label. The amounts of sugar and preservatives vary greatly in these types of products but they tend to be one of the less healthy ways to eat fruit and vegetables. Nick Vadasz, fermenting expert and founder of pickles and ferments company Vadasz, says, “Fruits such as berries tend to lose much of their vitamin C when turned into jam, and the addition of large amounts of sugar further reduces their nutritional appeal.” Nutritionist Summra Nasir agrees: “These are the least nutritious of preserving methods because of added sugar and greater vitamin losses, though a jam still provides some fibre and plant compounds.”

ARE PICKLED FOODS GOOD FOR YOU?

Fermented foods have had a lot of good press over the past few years but can pickles provide the same health benefits? The secret is in the method. Cold-brined pickles (which will likely be most of the jarred pickles you see) use vinegar to preserve the produce. But fermented pickles create their own acid (lactic acid bacteria) through the fermentation reaction of the vegetables within the water and salt. “It’s the lactic acid bacteria in fermented pickles, kimchi and sauerkraut that – as well as helping to preserve them – also fills every mouthful with a healthy dose of gut-loving bacteria, which in turn helps promote good gut health by creating a more favourable gut microbiome – an environment which can aid both physical and mental wellbeing, like boosting immunity, reducing anxiety and stress, and lowering blood pressure,” explains

Nick. “Pickled vegetables count towards your five-a-day and your weekly plant diversity target, and retain fibre and many beneficial plant chemicals. But because many are high in salt it’s best to enjoy them as part of a varied diet rather than relying on them as your main source of vegetables.”

ARE FERMENTED FOODS REALLY THE HOLY GRAIL?

“Fermentation is interesting because it doesn’t simply preserve food, it changes it,” says Summra. “Some vitamins decrease, while others increase.” Several of the different types of bacteria found in fermented foods can produce B vitamins, folate and vitamin K2, while fermentation also works to increase the bioavailability of iron and zinc, produce bioactive peptides and reduce phytates, increasing mineral absorption. As well as being probiotic foods, ferments also come with the added benefit of postbiotics, Jordan explains. “Postbiotics are beneficial compounds produced by microbes during fermentation, such as vitamins, enzymes and short-chain fatty acids. Research is showing they may even remain after cooking, so a kim-cheese toastie is still on the cards.”

WHICH IS THE HEALTHIEST METHOD OF PRESERVED FOOD?

“If foods are frozen shortly after harvest, freezing generally preserves nutrients better than almost any other household preservation method,” says Summra. “Vitamins are largely retained, although some vitamin C is lost during blanching (required for many vegetables) but frozen produce is often more nutritious than fresh produce that has spent a week in transport and storage.” Tinned foods hold on to most of their minerals, fibre and macronutrients but can lose heat-sensitive vitamins (like vitamin C and folate). However, there may be a different way to look at this, especially as we know only a third of UK adults reach their five-a-day target. “The best preservation method is often the one that helps you eat more nutrient-rich foods consistently throughout the year,” says Summra. “The reality is that the answer isn’t black and white. A substantial body of evidence compares different preservation techniques but there is no single best method because each one affects food in different ways, preserving some nutrients while reducing others, and often introducing its own unique benefits. Ultimately the healthiest choice depends on the food itself and what you want to get out of it nutritionally.”

» TURN OVER TO TRY SOME FERMENTED RECIPES

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Fermented hot sauce Make your own fermented hot sauce packed with punchy flavour. Once jarred, the sauce will last up to three weeks. MAKES 250ML | PREP 20 MINS PLUS FERMENTING | EASY 25g sea salt flakes 1 tbsp golden caster sugar, plus extra to blend 5 red scotch bonnet chillies 15 mild red chillies 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar Dissolve the salt and sugar in 100ml of boiling water then top up to 600ml with cold water. Trim the stalks from the chillies but leave the green caps. Halve and deseed, then roughly chop. Put the chillies in a sterilised preserving jar (see tip below), ideally one with a clip-top lid. Pack them in and pour the brine over the top to cover. Close the lid and leave in a cool place for two weeks. Give the jar a shake twice a day and, after two days, open the jar once a day to release the fermenting gas that will form. The liquid will be cloudy, the peppers will be soft and they should have a tangy, sour but not unpleasant flavour. Strain the chillies and keep the brine. Blitz the chillies in a blender until smooth, adding the vinegar and enough brine until you have a sauce consistency you like. Add another 2-3 tsp of sugar depending on how much of a sweet edge you want. Decant into sterilised bottles and keep in the fridge. HOW TO STERILISE A PRESERVING JAR Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1. Wash the jar in hot soapy water, then rinse well. Put the jar on a baking sheet and into the oven for 10 mins or until completely dry. If using a jar with a rubber seal, boil the seal as the dry heat will damage it.

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Kombucha Tangy, funky and fizzy, kombucha is a fermented, sweetened tea with a sour yet refreshing flavour. You will need to buy a scoby (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast) online first. MAKES 1 LITRE | PREP 5 MINS PLUS FERMENTING | COOK 10 MINS PLUS COOLING | EASY 60g caster sugar 3 earl grey tea bags 2 breakfast tea bags 1 scoby, plus 100ml kombucha liquid Put the sugar and 1 litre of boiling water into a pan and heat, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved. Add the tea bags and leave to infuse for 5 mins. Remove the tea bags and leave the tea to cool completely. Once cool, pour into a large sterilised preserving jar (see tip below) with the scoby and kombucha liquid, cover the top with kitchen paper or muslin and seal in place with an elastic band or string. Leave in a cool, dark place for one to two weeks, tasting daily after the first week – it should be funky and acidic but not overly sour. Remove the scoby and 100ml of the liquid when you’re happy with the final result and keep chilled – you can reuse these to make more kombucha. Drink within two days. HOW TO STERILISE A PRESERVING JAR Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1. Wash the jar in hot soapy water, then rinse well. Put the jar on a baking sheet and into the oven for 10 mins or until completely dry. If using a jar with a rubber seal, boil the seal as the dry heat will damage it.

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Homemade kimchi Time and patience is what you need to make kimchi, a Korean staple of fermented vegetables. It’s a great weekend project. MAKES 1KG | PREP 5 MINS PLUS SALTING AND FERMENTING COOK 25 MINS | EASY 1 chinese leaf cabbage sea salt flakes 1 tbsp rice flour 1 onion, chopped 4 garlic cloves thumb-sized piece of ginger 60g gochugaru 50ml fish sauce (or use tamari for a vegan kimchi) ½ mooli, peeled and cut into matchsticks 1 medium carrot, cut into matchsticks 3 spring onions, cut into 3cm pieces

Use a fermentation weight or wrap a piece of cardboard in foil and use a tin of beans on top to keep the cabbage underneath the liquid. Close the lid or cover with a piece of kitchen paper secured with an elastic band. Leave at room temperature for 1-2 days in a cool, dark place, tasting twice a day until it is beginning to sour and become a little funky. Transfer to a plastic tub with a good seal on the lid to keep the smell in and store in the fridge, where it will keep for a month. HOW TO STERILISE A PRESERVING JAR Heat the oven to 140C/120C fan/gas 1. Wash the jar in hot soapy water, then rinse well. Put the jar on a baking sheet and into the oven for 10 mins or until completely dry. If using a jar with a rubber seal, boil the seal as the dry heat will damage it.

Cut the cabbage into four long wedges, then chop into 8cm pieces and tip into a bowl. Sprinkle over 1 tbsp of sea salt flakes and toss well. Turn the cabbage every 30 mins for 2-3 hrs until it has softened. Rinse lightly under cold running water, then drain well. Put the rice flour in a small pan with 100ml of water and cook over a medium heat, stirring, until a thick paste forms. In a blender, blitz the onion, garlic and ginger until completely smooth (add a few teaspoons of water to loosen if needed), then tip into a bowl with the rice flour paste, gochugaru and fish sauce. Use threequarters of this paste to massage into the cabbage – you should notice some liquid forming in the bowl. Add the mooli, carrot and spring onions, and the remaining marinade, and mix everything really well. Pack everything tightly into a sterilised 1-litre preserving jar (see tip below), pressing to remove any air pockets, then pour over any liquid from the bowl. When you press the mixture down there should be liquid that rises up to keep everything submerged. If not, dissolve 1 tsp of salt into 100ml of boiling water, then pour this over the top to cover.

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RECIPE INDEX

34 42 126

Starters and snacks

39 Belgian béchamel and shrimp croquettes 56 Butternut squash aguachile 136 Fermented hot sauce 139 Homemade kimchi 32 Provençal bread dipping oil V GF 14 Roasted figs with labneh and spiced candied walnuts V GF 12 Tomato tartare with olive oil toast V 54 Trout tostadas 34 Watermelon, lime and feta checkerboard salad V GF

Mains and sides

126 Amaranth porridge with blackberry and ginger compote VE 22 Chicago tavern-style pizza two ways 10 Crab and samphire salad GF 8 Creamy lobster linguine 42 Creamy mustard chicken

126 Crispy five-grain Thai-style salad 145 Easy khao soi 104 Ful iskandarani (Alexandrian fava mash) 24 Gyoza dumpling salad with pickled red cabbage V 46 Honey mustard gammon with buttery lemon vegetables GF 44 Mustardy paneer curry GF 105 Sandawiche gibnasayha (rumi cheese toastie) 60 Slow-cooked short rib chilli 20 Sri Lankan black pepper prawns with coconut sambal 62 Wild mushroom and prosciutto lasagne

64 Dorset grated apple cake 60 Millionaire chocolate tart 50 Salted maple latte tart V 36 Salty peach cheesecake V

Drinks

71 Carajillo 138 Kombucha 70 Mastiha sour 68 No-shake ramos gin fizz 30 Vermouth spritz GF

Gluten-free VE Vegan

Vegetarian

Desserts and bakes

106 Basbousa (semolina cake) 128 Buckwheat oat cookies V 54 Buñuelos 26 Creamy Basque cheesecake with dark caramel sauce V

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Verna eats

CHIANG MAI

Each month our columnist shares a recipe inspired by her travels, plus tips for making your own version at home Recipe VERNA GAO Photographs ANDREW BURTON

Easy khao soi Nestled among the mountains of northern Thailand, Chiang Mai is renowned for its relaxed pace of life, vibrant markets and distinctive regional cuisine. One dish that shouldn’t be missed on any visit is khao soi – a comforting curry noodle soup found everywhere from humble street stalls to family-run restaurants. Rich, creamy and fragrant, it’s topped with crispy fried noodles and served with tangy garnishes. But if a trip to Chiang Mai isn’t on the cards just yet, try this recipe. It may not replace wandering the streets of Thailand but it’s a way to experience a taste of the region from home. SHOOT DIRECTOR: LAURIE NEWMAN. STYLIST: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLIST: AMY STEPHENSON

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 45 MINS | EASY 3-4 tbsp thai red curry paste 1 tsp ground turmeric tin of full-fat coconut milk 1kg chicken drumsticks 2-3 tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp brown sugar 4 nests of egg noodles (preferably wide) chopped coriander, chopped mustard greens (optional) and lime wedges, to serve

Heat the curry paste and turmeric in a large pan over a medium heat, stirring for 1-2 mins until fragrant, and the oils separate. Pour in the coconut milk and stir until fully incorporated. Add 400-500ml water and bring the broth to a gentle simmer. Add the drumsticks, ensuring they’re mostly submerged. Cover with a lid and simmer gently for 35-40 mins or until the chicken is tender and cooked through. Remove a few chicken legs from the pan and shred to remove the meat. Return the shredded chicken back into the soup. Season the broth with the fish sauce and sugar, stirring well – taste and adjust as needed. Meanwhile, cook the noodles following pack instructions. Drain well and divide between four serving bowls. If you like, fry some of the noodles on the side to make a crispy noodle topping. Ladle the hot broth and shredded chicken over the boiled noodles. Top with chopped coriander, mustard greens, if using, and the crispy fried egg noodles for extra crunch. Serve with lime wedges on the side for squeezing over. PER SERVING 639 kcals • fat 41G • saturates 20G carbs 27G • sugars 9G • fibre 3G • protein 38G • salt 2.8G

Verna Gao is a Shanghai-born chef, presenter, creator and author. She uses cooking as a means of staying connected to her Chinese heritage and loves travelling to learn about cultures through eating, as well as for recipe inspiration. Her book, Have You Eaten?, is out now. Follow her on Instagram @vernahungrybanana.

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Verna eats

CHIANG MAI To see Verna making this recipe, head to olive’s Instagram page @olivemagazine. TRY MY RECIPE ON PAGE 145

Rich, creamy and fragrant, it’s topped with cripy fried noodles and served with tangy garnihes 146

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