BUDGET VS BLOWOUT

Buy the best, whatever your budget

this month, chef’s knives

MIYABI

5000 Mc D67

An ergonomic, black ash handle and Damascus-patterned blade make this attractive knife a real treat to behold. The blade is nimble and ultra-sharp, and it is lightweight and comfortable to use. Zwilling (£479)

Just opened THE ABBEY INN, NORTH YORKSHIRE

Tommy Banks and his team have just opened a refurbished 19th century inn minutes away from The Black Swan. Produce comes from the Oldstead plot down the road and is used in smoked baby beetroot with ewe’s curd, Dexter chuck brisket and short rib Byland burger, and carrot and chicory tiramisu. Relax by the fire or in the garden. abbeyinnbyland.co.uk

Revisiting CHALK, WEST SUSSEX

Tom Kemble has taken the helm at Wiston Estate’s sustainable restaurant, bringing with him experience from Bonhams, Hedone and Fäviken in Sweden. He uses ingredients from the walled garden in braised lamb with juniper smoked potatoes and asparagus with smoked cod’s roe. Pair with the estate’s wines in the converted 18th century threshing barn or on the terrace. wistonestate.com

Coming soon

LITTLE KUDU, PECKHAM

Husband and wife team Patrick Williams and Amy Corbin will launch their third restaurant later this month in a Queen’s Road railway arch. Signature cocktails and South African wines will accompany a menu of tapas-style plates inspired by Patrick’s South African roots. Think Little Kudu loaf with Cape Malay butter and ham hock terrine with biltong scratchings. kuducollective.com

Ploussard’s lamb and anchovy crumpet

SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS

COOK 5 HRS 10 MINS | EASY

4 crumpets

1 heaped tbsp of capers, finely chopped handful of chives, finely chopped

LAMB

800g bone-in half lamb shoulder

1 tbsp vegetable oil

250ml white wine

1 onion, halved

4 rosemary sprigs

ANCHOVY EMULSION

50g tinned anchovies, drained

1 garlic clove, finely grated

½ tsp red wine vinegar

30ml vegetable oil

PUFFED BARLEY

25g pearl barley, rinsed

40ml vegetable oil

1 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3 and season the lamb well. Heat the oil in a large, deep, ovenproof pan over a medium-high heat and brown the lamb on all sides. Pour in the wine and bring to the boil, then add the onion and three of the rosemary sprigs.

2 Cover the pan with a sheet of baking paper followed by a sheet of foil, then transfer to the oven and bake for 2 hrs-2 hrs 30 mins or until the meat falls off the bone. Cool, then remove the lamb from the pan, setting aside the stock. Pick the meat off the bone and season again, then finely chop the remaining rosemary sprig and stir it through the lamb. Shape the meat into patties that are about the same width as the crumpets. Chill until needed.

3 For the emulsion, put the anchovies, garlic, vinegar and 1 tsp of water in a food processor, and blitz until smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil until everything is incorporated and emulsified – it should be the consistency of mayonnaise.

4 Heat the oven to 110C/90C fan/gas 1/2. Tip the pearl barley into a pan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until very soft – it should be overcooked. Drain, rinse under cold running water, drain again, then spread out over a baking tray lined with baking paper. Bake for 2 hrs-2 hrs 30 mins, stirring occasionally, until dried out. Heat the oil in a pan over a mediumhigh heat and fry the pearl barley in batches until puffed up (this will take a few seconds). Remove to kitchen paper to drain using a slotted spoon.

5 Put the lamb patties on a baking tray with a small ladle of the reserved stock, and cook at 210C/190C fan/gas 7 for 10 mins. Toast the crumpets, cool slightly, then spread over the anchovy emulsion and top with the lamb, puffed barley, capers and chives.

PER SERVING 707 kcals | fat 47.6G saturates 13.5G | carbs 27.2G | sugars 5.2G fibre 2.3G | protein 31.5G | salt 2.6G