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Bring the world to your table Bring the world to your table

golden

food • travel • wellbeing

hour

HOLIDAY SPECIAL 2026

MAKE THE MOST OF LONG, LAZY SUMMER DAYS

Indian summer lamb traybake

LAID-BACK ENTERTAINING EFFORTLESS DISHES, BBQ WINNERS AND SUNSET SPRITZES

food • travel • wellbeing

HOW TO KEEP THAT HOLIDAY FEELING ALL YEAR ROUND

CHASE THE SUN

ISLAND ESCAPES, APERITIVO CULTURE AND VIBRANT CITY BREAKS HOLIDAY SPECIAL 2026

£8.99

HEALTHY GLOW-UP

Editor’s letter

ne of my favourite times of the day in summer is that magical hour just before sunset, when the light turns soft and honeyed, the sun is sinking and everything takes on a slow, dreamy quality. It’s the perfect moment for gathering friends around the table, pouring something chilled and serving up an effortless spread. That’s the inspo behind this issue, in which we’re celebrating golden hour with a collection of laid-back recipes and dishes you can throw together easily, make ahead or just leave to do their thing in the oven, like our Indian lamb cover star on page 22. We’ve also got exclusive new barbecue ideas from the queen of the grill, Helen Graves, who knows how to make simple ingredients shine – her entertaining spread on page 29 will have you firing up the coals this weekend. And don’t miss Hannah Guinness’s ode to the summer drink that keeps on giving, the spritz (p70). I’ve tried all three and the raspberry and hibiscus option is a keeper. Elsewhere we’re hopping between sun-soaked European islands, taking a tour through Provence and discovering why Vancouver Island has become a cool destination for food lovers. And if you want to keep that summer feeling going, read our wellbeing guide on page 130 for simple tricks to harness the benefits year round.

COVER PHOTOGRAPH: ANT DUNCAN. SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR. PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS TERRY

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Head to @olivemagazine on Instagram to see our creators and chefs bring recipes, restaurants and destinations to life. 3

food 7

What to cook now

Laid-back summer

Flame and flavour

Gurd Loyal’s hot takes

Inspiring ideas that make the most of seasonal produce. Minimal effort dishes to enjoy alfresco in the sunshine. Elevate your grilling game with Helen Graves’ barbecue menu.

Shelf love

New ways to use beans, including a creamy dip and a caesar salad.

Edd Kimber’s modern baking Our expert baker whips up a classic fruit-topped Danish bake.

Signature dishes

Max Halley shares recipes that will level up your summer snacking.

Smoke and spice

Get inspired with Bengali flavours from Kishwar Chowdhury.

travel

Our trends expert shares a recipe for a Malay-inspired burger.

77 66

Wine 101

Learn about the underrated wine scene in Washington State, USA.

Slow travel

Boutique retreats

Why I love Provence

Aperitif hour

The best bottles and barware.

143 Recipe index 145 Verna eats Bangkok

Our columnist recreates Thai-style chicken satay skewers at home.

The best breweries to enjoy a pint.

Sunset sips

Make the most of golden hour with these fruity summer spritzes.

Barhopper

Visit a remote Canadian town for great food, hikes, beaches and wildlife. Three escapes to enjoy sunset dips, lunches and cocktails. Explore the cuisine and the prettiest villages of this special corner of France.

102 Cook like a local

Dive into the uniquely diverse food scene of South Africa.

Contents HOLIDAY SPECIAL

124 wellbeing

124 Easy seasonal nourishment

108 Spotlight on Dorset

Head to the south coast for excellent produce and scenery.

116 Lean into shoulder season

Plan an autumn escape at these typically summer destinations.

121 My neighbourhood

Our top foodie picks in Herne Hill.

don’t miss 15

Coming next issue

Subscription offer

Reader offer

Healthy fresh recipes for summer.

130 How to make that summer feeling last

An expert explains why summer is so good for us and how to make those health benefits last.

134 15 fibre favourites

High-fibre ingredients to add to your diet, plus three recipes to try.

Find out what’s in store in your next edition of olive. Treat yourself or a loved one to a six-month olive subscription for just £20. Book a foodie escape in Bath at Emberwood.

120 Reader offer

Enjoy a reader discount for a trip to the Iberian Peninsula.

122 City break

Must-visit stops in Milan.

y e h t n e h W t u b , m k said s e l i m t n mea y for the beauty Be read ummer s h is it r B f o

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WHAT TO COOK NOW Make the most of the season’s best produce with summer in full swing Recipes KATY GREENWOOD Photographs ANDREW BURTON

Sardines with Japanese-style slaw and furikake The recipe makes more furikake than you need but it will keep, stored in a jar, for ages and is great sprinkled on plain rice, chips, eggs or anything else that needs a touch of seasoning. I love to serve this dish with a side of fluffy Japanese rice but it would also work with new potatoes or chips. SERVES 2-4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 2 tbsp plain flour 8 large or 16 small sardines, filleted vegetable oil, to shallow fry cooked rice, to serve SLAW 200g carrots 200g daikon 200g white cabbage, shredded thinly pack of chives, snipped 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 2 tsp soy sauce 2 tsp mirin 2 tsp white miso paste 1 tbsp sesame oil 2 tsp finely grated ginger FURIKAKE 5g pack crispy seaweed thins 2 tbsp flaky sea salt 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds To make the slaw, peel the carrots and daikon, and cut into 5cm lengths. Slice thinly, then julienne. Toss with the cabbage and the chives, then mix together the remaining ingredients and dress the slaw just before serving.

Heat a thin layer of oil in a frying pan and cook the sardines, in batches, for 1-2 mins on each side, depending on how thick they are. Serve with the slaw and rice sprinkled with furikake. PER SERVING (4) 265 kcals • fat 13G • saturates 2G carbs 18G • sugars 9G • fibre 4G • protein 16G • salt 3G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: KATY GREENWOOD

To make the furikake, whizz the seaweed in a small blender until fairly fine, then combine with the salt and sesame seeds. Mix 1 tbsp of the furikake with the flour on a plate and use to dust the sardines.

Sumac spiced chicken and new potato traybake Elevate a simple traybake with some Middle Eastern flavours. Sumac is a dark red spice with a citrussy sourness that works really well with fish and chicken. All of the elements are cooked in stages in one dish so this couldn’t be easier to throw together. SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS MARINATING COOK 55 MINS | EASY 600g new potatoes, halved 6 large chicken thighs 2 red onions, cut into wedges through the root 1 tsp olive oil 200g long-stemmed broccoli, woody ends trimmed MARINADE 2 lemons 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp sumac 2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tsp nigella seeds 2 tsp caraway seeds 1 tsp ground cumin To make the marinade, zest and juice 11/2 lemons and put in a large bowl. Slice the remaining 1/2 lemon. Add the remaining marinade ingredients and season to taste. Put the chicken and potatoes in the marinade and leave for 1 hr in the fridge, if you have time. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Remove the potatoes from the marinade and roast in the oven for 15 mins. After this, add the chicken to the tray and toss the onion wedges in the marinade left in the bowl. Add the onions and any remaining marinade to the baking tray, and return to the oven for 30 mins. Toss the broccoli with the oil and add to the tray and roast for another 10 mins. PER SERVING 576 kcals • fat 30G • saturates 7G carbs 31G • sugars 7G • fibre 8G • protein 42G • salt 0.5G

Nectarine upside-down cake The combination of brown sugar and nectarines is always a winner, and this cake doesn’t disappoint. It could also be made in a 20cm round deep cake tin but I prefer a square cake as it gives you more of those gorgeous crispy edges. SERVES 12 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY crème fraîche or thick cream, to serve TOPPING 2 nectarines 50g unsalted butter 100g soft light brown sugar CAKE 125g unsalted butter 125g soft light brown sugar 2 medium eggs 2 tbsp milk 1 tsp vanilla extract 125g self-raising flour 1 tsp ground ginger Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Stone the nectarines and cut each into 18-20 slices. Line a 20cm square cake tin with baking paper and put 50g of butter in. Put the tin in the warming oven for a couple of minutes to melt the butter. Sprinkle the sugar in an even layer over the melted butter, then arrange over the nectarine slices. To make the cake, beat together the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time with the milk and vanilla, then add the flour with a pinch of salt and the ginger. Beat to bring together, then dollop the batter over the nectarines and spread to cover. Bake for 30 mins until risen and golden, and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 mins before turning out onto a serving plate. This is lovely eaten warm with crème fraîche or thick cream. PER SERVING 245 kcals • fat 13G • saturates 8G carbs 28G • sugars 21G • fibre 1G • protein 3G • salt 0.1G

Melon carpaccio with chilli honey dressing This is such an impressive looking dish with very little effort. Arrange paper-thin slices of sweet melon on your prettiest platter then drizzle with a sweetspicy dressing. Crisp parma ham and soft creamy goat’s cheese provide a lovely texture contrast. A great starter for two or works well as part of a meze spread. SERVES 2 AS A STARTER | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 12 MINS | EASY 4 slices of parma ham half a cantaloupe melon, peeled 75g soft goat's cheese handful of basil leaves (optional) DRESSING 50g honey ½ tsp sriracha ½ tsp red wine vinegar Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Bake the ham on a lined baking sheet for 10-12 mins until wrinkled and the fat is golden – they will crisp up as they cool. Mix together the dressing ingredients. Taste and add a pinch of salt, if you like. Use a veg peeler or mandoline to cut strips from the melon and arrange on a serving plate. Crumble over the crispy ham and dot over the cheese. Drizzle with the dressing and top with the basil leaves (if using), and a twist of black pepper. PER SERVING 320 kcals • fat 14G • saturates 8G carbs 29G • sugars 29G • fibre 1G • protein 18G • salt 2.4G For hundreds of seasonal solutions, head to olivemagazine.com and type in the ingredient you want to use.

PPHOTOGRAPH: JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH. SHOOT DIRECTOR: FREDDIE STEWART. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

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Laidback summer Minimal effort, hands-off recipes to enjoy with the last of the sun’s rays Words and recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Pulled buffalo chicken burgers with creamy slaw These burgers are a gorgeous mixture of buttery spiced chicken, crunchy slaw and sweet pickled cucumbers. The chicken is simply roasted then tossed with the sauce – you can get ahead on all the elements then let your guests assemble their own burgers. MAKES 6-8 BURGERS | PREP 15 MINS PLUS RESTING AND PICKLING COOK 45 MINS | EASY 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp garlic granules 4 whole chicken legs 30g unsalted butter 5 tbsp hot sauce (we used Frank’s RedHot Buffalo Wings Sauce) HERBY SLAW 300-400g sweetheart cabbage, finely shredded 1 /2 red onion, finely sliced 2 tbsp mayonnaise 2 tbsp soured cream 2 tbsp chopped chives 2 tbsp chopped dill PICKLED CUCUMBERS 1 tbsp white wine vinegar or rice vinegar 2 tsp caster sugar 3 baby cucumbers, finely sliced pinch of aleppo pepper or other mild red chilli flakes TO SERVE 8 buns (brioche or milk buns work well), toasted cooked french fries To make the slaw, put the cabbage in a colander, sprinkle over 1 tsp of sea salt and massage it in. Leave for 30 mins, then squeeze to remove any excess water. Transfer to a bowl, then mix with the onion, mayo, soured cream and herbs. Season and chill until ready to serve.

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Combine the paprika and garlic granules, then rub all over the chicken legs. Transfer to a roasting tray and roast for 45 mins until cooked through, then rest for 10 mins. Pour off any excess fat, then pull the meat into chunks, discarding the skin, bones and any fat or sinew. Melt the butter and hot sauce in a pan over a low heat, then toss the mixture with the chicken to coat. Pile the shredded buffalo chicken into toasted buns with the slaw and pickled cucumbers. Serve with fries and ice-cold beers. PER SERVING (8) 514 kcals • fat 25G • saturates 8G carbs 41G • sugars 8G • fibre 5G • protein 28G • salt 2.2G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

For the cucumbers, combine the vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt in a non-metallic bowl until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Add the cucumbers, toss and leave to pickle until needed. Sprinkle over the chilli flakes just before serving.

Indian summer lamb traybake A one-tray roast with warming spices – the potatoes soak up all of the juices from the lamb as it cooks. If you can, marinate the lamb overnight so all of those flavours have time to absorb fully. Serve with a simple tomato and cucumber salad, naan, yogurt and chutneys for an effortless summer spread. SERVES 6-8 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS OVERNIGHT MARINATING AND RESTING COOK 3 HRS | EASY 4 tbsp cold-pressed rapeseed oil 2.2-2.5kg lamb leg 1.5kg potatoes, quartered 2 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 lemon, halved natural yogurt, to serve mango chutney, to serve coriander leaves, to serve 2 red chillies, sliced, to serve naans or roti, to serve tomato and cucumber salad, to serve SPICE RUB 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp garlic granules 1 /2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 /2 tsp kashmiri chilli powder or mild chilli powder MINT CORIANDER CHUTNEY small bunch of mint, leaves picked small bunch of coriander 1 garlic clove 1 green chilli, chopped

If you can, marinate the lamb overnight so all o those flavours have time to absorb fully

Combine all the spice rub ingredients with 1 tsp of sea salt flakes and 2 tbsp of the oil in a bowl. Slash across the lamb neatly at 2-3cm intervals on both sides using a large sharp knife. Brush the spice rub all over the lamb and into the cuts, then cover and chill overnight. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the potatoes in the bottom of a roasting tin with the remaining 2 tbsp of oil, the cumin and fennel seeds, and 1 tsp of sea salt. Toss to combine. Sit the lamb on top then cook for 30 mins. Remove from the oven then turn it down to 170C/150C fan/gas 3. Cover the lamb with a double sheet of foil, then cook for 2 hrs. Remove the foil, stir the potatoes, turn up the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and cook for 30 mins. Transfer the lamb to a board to rest. If you prefer crispier potatoes, turn them over and cook for a few more minutes until golden and crisp. To make the chutney, put all the ingredients in a small blender and whizz until smooth. Season with salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. Swirl together some mango chutney with some yogurt, then serve the lamb alongside the potatoes, chutney yogurt, naans or roti, and tomato and cucumber salad, topped with some coriander leaves and sliced chillies. PER SERVING (8) 683 kcals • fat 33G • saturates 12G carbs 36G • sugars 2G • fibre 5G • protein 58G • salt 1.6G

Pineapple, ginger and chilli salad This was inspired by the salad served at Tamila in Soho, London – a gorgeous mixture of sweet, salty, hot and sour flavours. SERVES 6-8 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS RESTING | EASY 1 pineapple, peeled, cored and sliced 1 large mango, peeled, stoned and sliced 1 /2 red onion, finely chopped 1-2 red chillies, deseeded and finely sliced coriander and mint leaves toasted peanuts, to serve (optional) DRESSING 2 limes, juiced 1 tsp sugar 2cm piece of ginger, finely grated Combine the dressing ingredients in a large bowl and season with salt, then stand for 10 mins. Add the pineapple, mango and onion to the dressing, and toss well. Arrange on a serving platter or shallow bowl, then scatter over the chillies, herb leaves and peanuts, if using. PER SERVING (8) 103 kcals • fat 0.4G • saturates none carbs 22G • sugars 20G • fibre 4G • protein 1G • salt 0G

Peach melba sundae platter This is so impressive looking for what is essentially a last-minute assembly job. Use a freezerproof platter so you can scoop the ice cream into balls ahead of time, then just pile everything else on top. SERVES 6-8 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 2 MINS | EASY 1 tub of vanilla ice cream (you’ll need 2 scoops per person) 4-6 ripe peaches 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 tbsp icing sugar 300ml double cream 6 meringues, broken into large chunks 1 punnet of raspberries brandy snaps, smashed into pieces, to decorate RASPBERRY SAUCE 150g raspberries 2 tbsp icing sugar Use an ice cream scoop or large spoon to scoop 16 balls of ice cream. Arrange on a freezerproof platter, then freeze until ready to serve. Drop the peaches into a large pan of boiling water and simmer for 2 mins. Scoop out using a slotted spoon, then leave to cool completely. Halve, then peel away the skins and remove the stones. Halve each half again, so you have 16-24 quarters. Put the peaches in a bowl, then scatter over 1/2 tsp of vanilla extract and 1 tbsp of icing sugar. Mix to combine, then chill.

Use a freezerproof platter so you can scoop the ice cream into balls ahead of time, then just pile everything else on top

To make the sauce, put the raspberries and sugar in a blender with a splash of water, and blend until smooth. Push through a sieve set over a bowl, discarding any pips. To assemble, whip the cream with the remaining vanilla and sugar to soft peaks. Take out the platter of ice cream and dollop over some of the whipped cream. Layer the meringues, peaches, raspberries and remaining cream on top, then finish with the raspberry sauce and brandy snap pieces. PER SERVING (8) 494 kcals • fat 30G • saturates 19G carbs 48G • sugars 48G • fibre 3G • protein 6G • salt 0.3G

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SHOOT DIRECTOR: LAURIE NEWMAN. STYLIST: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

Flame and f lavour

Elevate your grilling game with these elegant barbecue recipes from food writer Helen Graves Recipes HELEN GRAVES Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH 29

Blackened courgette smash Cooking courgettes whole like this may seem unusual but their soft insides intensify in flavour while their skins char and blacken, providing a pleasantly bitter contrast to the sweet flesh. I love to smush them up – including the skins – and spoon the warm pulp over a cool garlic and tahini flavoured soured cream for maximum contrast. Serve with warm flatbreads for scooping. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 1

/2 lemon, thinly sliced, then the slices quartered and any seeds removed, plus 1 tbsp of juice 2 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste 4 large courgettes 1 tbsp mixed seeds 1 /2 tsp sumac 1 /2 tsp dried mint 1 /2 tsp pul biber olive oil, for frying 200g soured cream 100g tahini small handful of mint leaves TO SERVE extra-virgin olive oil and flatbreads Combine the lemon juice and garlic in a small bowl. Light the barbecue and allow the flames to die down so you have hot glowing coals. Put the courgettes on the grill directly over the coals and cook for 15-20 mins, turning occasionally, until soft and blackened. Toast the mixed seeds in a dry frying pan, stirring often. Remove from the heat, tip into a bowl and combine with the sumac, dried mint, pul biber and a pinch of salt. Heat 2 tbsp of oil in the same frying pan and cook the lemon pieces for a few minutes until golden brown. Whisk the garlic and lemon mixture with the cream, tahini and a pinch of salt until you have a smooth sauce. Spread over a serving platter. Once the courgettes are ready, remove them to a large plate or bowl and mash into large chunks using a fork. Tip the them over the sauce, including any juices. Scatter over the fried lemon pieces, seed mixture and mint leaves, then top with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Serve with warmed flatbreads for scooping. PER SERVING (6) 256 kcals • fat 22G • saturates 6G carbs 5G • sugars 4G • fibre 4G • protein 8G • salt 0.1G

Lamb chops with smokysweet chilli sauce Lamb chops are perfect for a barbecue as they cook quickly and can be piled up on a platter for everyone to share. They also work well with a bold dressing – this spicy, nutty sauce is like the love child of sweet chilli and salsa macha, with smoky heat from the chipotle plus complex sweetness from maple syrup. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY 100ml vegetable oil, plus extra for cooking 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 30g peanuts, finely chopped 1 tbsp chipotle paste 3 tbsp maple syrup 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds 12 lamb chops or cutlets Set up the barbecue with the coals banked to one side so you have a hot area and a cooler area. Light the barbecue and wait until the flames have died down and the coals are hot. Heat the oil in a small pan over a medium-high heat and, once hot, fry the garlic until just turning golden. Remove the garlic using a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Fry the peanuts in the same oil until golden, then remove using a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Combine the chipotle, maple syrup, soy, vinegar and sesame seeds with 3 tbsp of the hot oil and some salt. Add the garlic and peanuts, and mix again. Cook the chops on the hot side of the barbecue for a few minutes (or until cooked to your liking), moving them to the cooler side of the grill if the fire starts to flare up too much or you’d like them to cook through without charring. Drizzle some of the sauce over the lamb and serve with any extra sauce on the side for dipping. PER SERVING (6) 493 kcals • fat 39G • saturates 15G carbs 8G • sugars 7G • fibre 1G • protein 27G • salt 0.7G

Buttered corn and smacked radish salad This vibrant salad is made with radishes, which are smacked to give them lots of craggy edges for the dressing to cling on to. Combined with sweetcorn and crisp sugar snaps, they’re delicious with a cool garlic yogurt and minted brown butter dressing. Any leftover pickled onions will keep chilled for a week. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS PICKLING AND DRAINING COOK 5 MINS | EASY 250g radishes 300g thick natural yogurt 2 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste 100g sugar snaps, halved lengthways 198g tin of sweetcorn, drained 50g butter handful of mint leaves, finely sliced QUICK PICKLED ONIONS 11/2 tbsp caster sugar 50ml rice vinegar 1 red onion, finely sliced For the onions, combine the sugar, vinegar, 1 tbsp of sea salt and 100ml of hot water in a non-metallic bowl until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Add the onion and set aside for at least 1 hr. Smack the radishes using a rolling pin until they start to break apart. Tip into a bowl and sprinkle over 1 tsp of sea salt, mixing well. Transfer to a sieve set over the bowl and set aside to drain for 45 mins. Mix the yogurt with the garlic and a pinch of salt, then chill until needed. Rinse the salt from the radishes and pat dry using kitchen paper. Combine with the sugar snaps and sweetcorn. Spread the garlic yogurt over a serving platter and top with the vegetables. Melt the butter in a small pan over a medium heat – it will start to splutter as the water cooks off. When this stops, continue to cook, swirling the pan until the butter smells nutty and you can see brown specks in the bottom. Add the mint leaves, then pour the butter over the salad just before serving. Top with the pickled onions. PER SERVING (6) 185 kcals • fat 13G • saturates 8G carbs 12G • sugars 9G • fibre 2G • protein 5G • salt 1.6G

Grape and sumac coleslaw This is zingy, fresh and full of contrasts – a great complement to rich, meaty grills. Crisp cabbage, fennel and onion are combined with a zippy sumac dressing and quick pickled red grapes for pops of sweet-tart flavour. Left-over grapes will keep chilled for a week and are lovely in chicken salads. SERVES 4-6 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS PICKLING | EASY QUICK PICKLED GRAPES 50ml sherry vinegar 3 tbsp maple syrup 250g seedless red grapes, halved DRESSING 1 tbsp honey 2 tbsp lemon juice 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 tbsp sumac SLAW 1 /2 white cabbage, finely shredded 1 fennel bulb, cored, finely sliced 1 red onion, finely sliced 6 medjool dates, pitted and finely chopped bunch of dill, fronds picked For the grapes, combine the vinegar, maple syrup and 1 tbsp of sea salt flakes with 100ml of hot water, and stir until the salt has dissolved. Add the grapes and set aside for at least 1 hr. Combine all the dressing ingredients in a clean lidded jar or bowl with a generous pinch of salt. Shake or whisk to mix. For the slaw, combine the cabbage, fennel, onion and dates in a large bowl. Add the grapes, dressing and dill, and toss to combine. PER SERVING (6) 209 kcals • fat 6G • saturates 1G carbs 34G • sugars 33G • fibre 6G • protein 2G • salt 1.7G

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PHOTOGRAPH: JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH. SHOOT DIRECTOR: LAURIE NEWMAN. STYLIST: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

Gurd

HOT

Loyal’s

T TAKES

Trends expert Gurd Loyal shares a recipe that’s having a moment online and in the restaurant world – this month, a Malay-influenced burger with a punchy sambal

alaysian food is a vibrant cross-cultural mixture of Malay, Chinese and Nonya (Peranakan) cuisines, with significant influences from Indian, Thai and Indonesian cultures. This intercultural complexity is most deliciously found in its street food, from satay and laksa through to roti canai and Malaysian spiced burgers. Mandy Yin of Sambal Shiok is famous for her satay burger – a spiced chicken thigh patty with nutty peanuttamarind sauce, fiery chilli sambal and pickles, served on a brioche bun. In Kuala Lumpur, one of the most famous burgers you’ll encounter is the Ramly burger – a curry powder and soy spiced patty wrapped in a very thin egg omelette (like a parcel) and smothered in Maggi Seasoning and chilli sauce, with shredded lettuce, onions and mayo. The key to creating that signature Malaysian flavour at home is first in the spicing of your patty. In Ranie Saidi’s The Malay Cook, he highlights “the four siblings” – star anise, clove, cinnamon and cardamom – as the core spices to turn to. As a quick hack you can use chinese five-spice powder and an extra pinch of ground cardamom, which I’ve used in this recipe, combined with curry powder in homage to the original Ramly burger. Along with spices it’s important to properly balance any sweet, salty, umami and spicy aromatics that you add – ensuring ingredients like zingy lemongrass and salty soy are countered with things like savoury fish sauce and a little sugar. Always add something fresh, like chopped spring onions or coriander, to the patties for essential herby brightness. You can add a grating of galangal and ginger for an extra warming note, or even some chilli flakes for a more intense, burning heat. A punchy sambal is also key – made from a base of blitzed chillies and oil – and you can liven it up with tomatoes or mango for a fruity note, tamarind or lime for tang or even anchovies for a little funk. The combination of tamarind and tomato in this sambal is a delicious addition to any barbecue, as it can amplify the flavour of charred burgers, hot dogs, flame-grilled chicken thighs or fish. One of the best Malaysian burgers out there is at the Duda Diner in Nunhead, London. The Duda burger has a spiced beef patty that’s slathered in Sarawak peppercorn chilli sauce and the all-important addition of a fried egg. The layering of all those flavours is what makes it so very special to eat and so wonderfully Malaysian.

Malaysian spiced burgers with tomato-tamarind sambal MAKES 4 LARGE BURGERS | PREP 20 MINS PLUS CHILLING COOK 25 MINS | EASY 500g chicken mince (about 5-6% fat) 6 large garlic cloves, minced to a paste 1 tbsp lemongrass paste 1 tbsp medium curry powder 11/2 tsp chinese five-spice powder 1 tbsp onion granules 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp fish sauce 2 spring onions, finely chopped 2 tsp soft light brown sugar 15g coriander, finely chopped 4 brioche burger buns, split and toasted SAMBAL 195g red chillies, stalks removed 4 large garlic cloves 100ml vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing 2 tbsp tomato ketchup 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 tbsp tamarind paste 1 tbsp soft light brown sugar TO SERVE sliced red onion, pickles, coriander leaves and/or fried eggs Put the chicken, garlic, lemongrass, curry powder, five-spice, onion granules, soy, fish sauce, spring onions, sugar and coriander in a large bowl and, using your hands (wearing disposable gloves) or a large spoon, mix everything together until all the ingredients are evenly distributed. Cover and chill for 1 hr. Meanwhile, to make the sambal, blitz the chillies, garlic and oil in a blender until smooth, then pour into a deep non-stick frying pan with 100ml of water and gently fry for 12 mins, stirring continuously, until much of the liquid has evaporated. Add the ketchup, tomato purée, tamarind, sugar and 21/2 tsp of salt, and continue to cook for 3-4 mins until thickened, adding a splash of water if it seems too thick. Taste for seasoning, adding more sugar, salt or tamarind, if needed. Remove from the heat. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Remove the spiced chicken from the fridge and shape into four large patties that are just a little wider than the buns – it will be quite a loose mixture but that’s okay. Brush lightly with oil, then put on a wire rack set over a baking tray lined with foil. Cook in the oven for 24-26 mins, turning halfway through, until the burgers are cooked through but still juicy. Finish off over the embers of a barbecue, if you like, for an extra-smoky burger. Serve on the buns topped with generous dollops of the sambal and whatever extra toppings you like, such as red onion, pickles, coriander leaves and a fried egg. PER SERVING 621 kcals • fat 34G • saturates 5G carbs 46G • sugars 20G • fibre 3G • protein 31G • salt 5.2G

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SHELF LOVE Give storecupboard ingredients a little TLC – this month, three brilliant ways with beans Recipes HELENA BUSIAKIEWICZ Photographs JAMIE ORLANDO-SMITH

Cavolo nero, anchovy and roasted butter bean caesar This isn’t strictly a caesar salad but it has some very strong similarities. I like my dressing quite punchy with anchovies, garlic and mustard but feel free to add each a little at a time to tailor it to your tastes. The one thing I do encourage is dressing the salad with clean hands – it ensures every bite is perfectly coated in dressing. SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY

Put the beans onto another lined baking sheet, drizzle with the remaining oil and a little salt and pepper. Toss well to coat, then roast both the sourdough and beans for 25 mins, taking the sourdough out after 15 mins or when golden and crisp. Remove the beans from the oven and leave to cool slightly. Meanwhile, make the quick pickled onions. Put the onion into a small bowl, pour over the vinegar, then sprinkle over the sugar and a pinch of salt. Scrunch to combine. To make the dressing, mash the anchovies in a large bowl with the garlic, then mix through the mayo, mustard, parmesan, yogurt, worcestershire sauce, vinegar and plenty of black pepper. Massage the cavolo nero leaves in a large bowl with a drizzle of oil and a pinch of salt until darkened slightly. Add most of the beans and croutons, then pour over most of the dressing, using your hands to coat everything well. Serve the salad on a large platter. Top with the reserved beans and croutons, then layer over the dill and pickled onions. Serve with any remaining dressing. PER SERVING 501 kcals • fat 32G • saturates 6G carbs 33G • sugars 6G • fibre 8G • protein 17G • salt 1.4G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: LAURIE NEWMAN. STYLIST: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

150g sourdough, cubed 4 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle 540g jar of butter beans, drained and patted dry 200g cavolo nero, leaves stripped and roughly chopped 15g dill, leaves picked QUICK PICKLED ONIONS 1 small red onion, thinly sliced on a mandoline 2 tbsp red wine vinegar ½ tsp caster sugar CAESAR DRESSING 3-4 jarred anchovies in oil 2 garlic cloves, grated 70g mayonnaise 1 tsp dijon mustard 50g parmesan, finely grated 50g greek yogurt splash of worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp red wine vinegar

Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the sourdough cubes on a large lined baking tray, spacing them out. Drizzle with 2 tbsp of the oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss to coat.

Green tahini, chickpea and roasted aubergine platter with charred dried apricots This makes a generous amount of dressing. If you have any left over, use as a dip with crudités or to dress another salad. It will keep for three days in the fridge. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | EASY 2 aubergines, cut into chunky half moons 5 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp ground coriander 1 garlic clove, grated 1 tsp cumin seeds 250g microwave pouch of mixed grains 540g jar of chickpeas, drained GREEN TAHINI SAUCE 100g tahini 70g greek yogurt 20g parsley, roughly chopped 20g dill, roughly chopped, plus extra to garnish 20g coriander, roughly chopped, plus extra to garnish 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 lemon, zested and juiced CHARRED APRICOTS 50g soft dried apricots, halved 1 tsp olive oil

Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the aubergines on a large lined roasting tray. In a small bowl, mix the oil, ground coriander, garlic and cumin seeds with a generous amount of salt and pepper. Mix to combine, then pour over the aubergines and toss well to coat. Roast for 35 mins, turning up the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 for the final 10-15 mins, until tender and golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly. Meanwhile, put all the green tahini sauce ingredients into the jug of a high-powered blender. Blitz to a smooth sauce, adding a splash of water to loosen if needed. Lightly season with salt. For the charred apricots, put a small frying pan over a medium heat. Put the chopped apricots in a small bowl, drizzle with the oil and toss to coat. Once the pan is hot, tip in the apricots, cooking for 30 seconds to 1 min until charred in some spots. Remove from the pan. To serve, microwave the grains following pack instructions, then spread across a large platter. Mix the chickpeas through some of the dressing and spoon onto the grains. Top with the aubergines, apricots, dill and coriander, and a few spoonfuls more of dressing. Put the left-over dressing into a bowl for people to spoon over their portions. PER SERVING 627 kcals • fat 38G • saturates 6G carbs 43G • sugars 10G • fibre 18G • protein 20G • salt 0.1G

Roasted red pepper and cannellini bean dip with smoky pepper and almond topping This is a dip that I think has muhammara energy – muhammara is a Middle Eastern roasted red pepper and walnut dip. This version uses cannellini beans for creaminess and has a smoky almond and pepper topping for some crunch. This is a great one to whip up for big gatherings – simply serve with crackers and crudités, and allow everyone to dive in. SERVES 6 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY 3 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, grated 2 tsp smoked sweet paprika 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp hot chilli powder 540g jar of cannellini beans 480g jar of roasted red peppers, drained and roughly chopped (275g drained weight) 2 tsp red wine vinegar 8g chives, finely chopped, to garnish crackers and crudités, to serve TOPPING 2 tbsp olive oil 75g flaked almonds 1 tsp chipotle chilli flakes 1 tsp smoked paprika 2 tbsp honey

Put a large deep frying pan over a medium heat. Drizzle in the oil and, once shimmering, scatter in the onion. Cook for 10-12 mins until softened, golden and gently charred at the edges. Stir in the garlic, paprika, cumin and chilli, and cook for 2 mins, stirring often and being careful that it doesn’t burn. Stir in the beans and their liquid, with 175g of the peppers. Stir to combine and simmer gently for 5 mins, then stir in the vinegar and leave to cool. Blitz in a high-powered blender until totally smooth. Taste for seasoning and adjust if you need to. For the topping, heat the oil in a small frying pan, then cook the almonds for 5-6 mins, stirring often, until golden. Add the remaining 100g of peppers, chilli and paprika. Season with salt and pepper, then drizzle with the honey. Stir to coat, allow to bubble for a minute or so, then spoon straight on top of the dip. Sprinkle with the chives and serve with crackers and crudités for dunking. PER SERVING 276 kcals • fat 17G • saturates 2G carbs 18G • sugars 10G • fibre 6G • protein 9G • salt 0.9G

Edd Kimber’s

MODERN BAKING

This classic Danish bake is a cross between focaccia and brioche, with a fruity butterscotch topping Words and recipe EDD KIMBER Photographs ANT DUNCAN

t’s no secret that the Danes have a particular skill when it comes to baked goods and, while this dish might not be the country’s most well-known export, it may just become your new favourite bake. Brunsviger is, at first glance, rather similar to a focaccia, a dough that’s dimpled all over before being baked. But on closer inspection it’s much more brioche-like. Enriched with butter and eggs, and flavoured with cardamom, it’s also referred to as a yeasted cake. Once the dough is dimpled, a butterscotch-style topping is poured over before baking. As the dough bakes, this brown sugar and butter mixture becomes crispy and chewy at the edges but remains gooey in the middle, making it an addictive sweet treat. For my version I like to flavour the dough with lemon zest and add blueberries along with the butterscotch. It’s the perfect pairing to a strong mug of black coffee.

Edd Kimber is a baker, food writer and the author of seven cookbooks, including his latest, Small Batch Cookies. Find him on Substack and Instagram @theboywhobakes.

Blueberry and lemon brunsviger SERVES 10-12 | PREP 35 MINS PLUS RISING | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 1 lemon, zested 30g caster sugar 500g strong white bread flour 1 tsp ground cardamom 10g fine sea salt 7g sachet of fast-action dried yeast 2 eggs 250ml whole milk 100g unsalted butter, diced and softened, plus extra for the bowl and tin TOPPING 150g unsalted butter, diced 200g soft light brown sugar 200g blueberries Put the zest and caster sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer, and mix using your fingertips until the oils have released from the zest and the sugar is damp and fragrant. Add the flour, cardamom, salt, yeast, eggs and milk, and mix using the dough hook attachment to form a shaggy dough. With the mixer on low-medium speed, knead for 10 mins or until the dough is smooth and elastic, and forms a ball that clings to the hook and comes away from the sides of the bowl. With the mixer still running, add the butter, a couple of pieces at a time. Continue kneading for another 10 mins until all of the butter has been incorporated and the dough is smooth and elastic again, and no longer sticking to the sides of the bowl. Tip out the dough onto a worksurface and shape into a neat ball. Transfer, seam-side down, to a lightly buttered bowl. Cover and leave for 1 hr to rise until doubled in size. Lightly butter a 33cm x 22cm baking tin and line with baking paper. Tip the dough into the tin and gently press flat so that it fills the entire base of the tin. Lightly cover for an hour or so until the dough has doubled in size.

Just before baking, dimple the dough all over using your fingertips, as if making a focaccia. Scatter over the blueberries before drizzling over the butterscotch, coating the dough as evenly as you can. Bake for 20-25 mins or until the topping is bubbling and the cake is golden. It is best served on the day, preferably still warm. It can also be gently reheated up to three days after baking. PER SERVING (12) 419 kcals • fat 19G • saturates 12G carbs 52G • sugars 21G • fibre 2G • protein 8G • salt 1G

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. For the topping, put the butter, brown sugar and a large pinch of sea salt flakes in a pan over a medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until melted and the mixture is bubbling, then take off the heat.

I like to flavour the dough with lemon zest and add blueberries along with the butterscotch

ignature ishes Our favourite creators share dishes that showcase their unique style of cooking – here sandwich king Max Halley offers fun, inventive takes on summer snacking

Recipes MAX HALLEY Photographs ELLIS PARRINDER

Sausage and prawn toasts, p54

Sausage and prawn toasts

Reuben(esque) hot dogs

My dear friend Lorcan Spiteri is a brilliant cook and fantastic fryer of things. He single-handedly made prawn toast cool again by serving it as a starter at his old restaurant Caravel in London. This is his recipe, with sausagemeat blitzed in with the prawns, which adds a slightly denser, chewier and wonderful feel to the thing, and surely elevates it to the realms of Greatest Unexpected Breakfast Dishes of All Time.

I own a brilliant sandwich shop but Katz’s Deli in New York is surely everyone’s desert island sandwich destination. This hot dog is a little piece of heaven, eaten at my house quite often, as we sit around reminiscing about Katz’s extraordinary sarnies. Your local Polish shop is a great place to get less industrial (sometimes even raw/cold-smoked) hot dog appropriate sausages – much better than you might get in the supermarket.

SERVES 6 AS A STARTER | PREP 15 MINS PLUS CHILLING COOK 15 MINS | EASY 400g peeled raw king prawns 200g sausagemeat or sausages of your choice, skins removed, at room temperature 2 tsp light or Japanese soy sauce 2 tsp fish sauce 2 tsp rice, malt or white wine vinegar 3 large garlic cloves, grated or finely chopped 20g piece of ginger, grated or finely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and pith removed, finely chopped 3 tbsp finely chopped coriander 5 tbsp black sesame seeds 5 tbsp white sesame seeds 6 extra-thick slices of soft white bread (Hovis or Warburtons Toastie is perfect – too thin and the bread will go soggy) 400-500ml rapeseed or vegetable oil condiments of your choice, to serve (try Lao Gan Ma chilli crisp or chilli jam) ice-cold lager, to serve Put the prawns between a few sheets of kitchen paper and gently press down to completely dry them. Be thorough – they need to be really dry. Put the sausagemeat in a food processor with half the prawns, the soy, fish sauce, vinegar, garlic and ginger, and blitz until completely smooth. Chop the remaining prawns into small chunks and add to the paste mixture with the chilli and coriander. Stir until completely combined. Combine the black and white sesame seeds on a large plate. Use a spatula to firmly slather the prawn and pork paste onto the bread, edge to edge in an even layer, really pressing it on. Then, press the slices, paste-side down, firmly into the sesame seeds so they completely cover everything and are really stuck on. Chill the slices in a stack, seeded-side up, with a small sheet of baking paper between each one, for 1-2 hrs to firm up. Heat the oven to 70C/50C fan/gas 1/4, or its lowest setting, and cover a baking sheet with kitchen paper. Heat the oil in your biggest frying pan to 180C – check with a probe thermometer, or a small cube of bread should bubble and turn golden in 20 seconds. Fry in batches, seeded-side down, for 2 mins 30 seconds, then carefully flip over and give them the same again. Put the slices on the baking sheet in the warm oven while you fry the rest. Serve cut in half diagonally with your chosen condiment and an ice-cold beer.

MAKES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 2 thumb-thick smoked sausages (such as kielbasa myśliwska) or frankfurters 2 hot dog buns, split open lengthways pinch of caraway seeds small pinch of fine sea salt 60g sauerkraut (drained weight – if yours has lots of liquid, let it drain in a colander for 30 mins first) 2 tbsp finely chopped onion PANGRATTATO 4 tbsp olive oil 20g fresh sourdough breadcrumbs RUSSIAN DRESSING 1 tbsp tomato ketchup 2 tbsp mayonnaise 1 heaped tbsp coarsely grated or finely chopped gherkins or sweet dill pickles 1 /4 tsp worcestershire sauce 1 /2 tsp white wine vinegar 3 good schploofs of Tabasco First, make the pangrattato. Heat the oil in a small pan over a medium heat and fry the breadcrumbs for 5 mins until deep golden brown, then drain on some kitchen paper. Mix together all the Russian dressing ingredients in a bowl. Taste and adjust as you see fit. Bring a 2.5cm depth of water to the boil in a pan that is at least as wide as the sausages are long. Throw in the sausages and boil for 5 mins. If you have a metal colander, sieve or vegetable steamer basket, pop it on top of the hot dog pan while they’re boiling, throw in the buns and steam them briefly until soft. Skip this if you can’t be bothered but I regret it when I don’t. Grind the caraway seeds and salt to a powder with a pestle and mortar. Lay a sausage in each bun’s crevice and cover it in dressing. Roll the sausages over in the crevice, then add a little more sauce. Cover in kraut, sprinkle on the raw onion, then some caraway powder and lastly the pangrattato. Bloody good, isn’t it?

Nargisi kofte scotch eggs with lime pickle and mango chutney yogurt Made from spiced minced lamb wrapped around a boiled egg and simmered in sauce, the nargisi kofte was very popular in the Mughal court. It gets its name from its visual similarity to a nargis/ narcissus/daffodil flower when cut in half. All I’ve done here is breadcrumbed the thing instead of simmering it in sauce and used sausagemeat, of course, because it’s not a scotch egg otherwise, is it? SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | MORE EFFORT 1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for deep-frying 100g onion, finely chopped 3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped 25g piece of ginger, finely chopped 1 /2 tsp fine sea salt 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 /2 tsp chilli powder 1 tbsp garam masala 7 eggs, at room temperature 400g lamb sausages, skins removed 100g plain flour 200g panko or dried breadcrumbs LIME PICKLE AND MANGO CHUTNEY YOGURT 1 heaped tbsp lime pickle 1 heaped tbsp mango chutney 200g full-fat greek yogurt Heat the oil in a pan over a medium-low heat and fry the onion, garlic and ginger with the salt for 20 mins until really soft and lightly golden. Add the spices, combine thoroughly and cook for a few minutes more, being careful not to burn them. Empty into a large bowl and set aside to cool completely. Meanwhile, make the lime pickle and mango chutney yogurt. Put the ingredients into a jug and blend with a hand blender until smooth. Scrape into a bowl and store in the fridge.

Recipes extracted from Cooking with Sausages by Max Halley (£16.99, DK). Photographs © Ellis Parrinder. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

I don’t like runny eggs in a scotch egg, so the yolks here will be set and just a little fudgy. Bring a small pan of water to the boil over a high heat and cook four of the eggs for 7 mins, then put the pan under cold running water for a few minutes until the eggs are cold enough to handle and have stopped cooking. Peel them. Add the sausagemeat to the cooled onions and combine thoroughly with your hands, kneading it in the bowl for a minute or so as you might a dough to get it nice and sticky. Roll the mixture into four equal balls. Put the balls, one at a time, between two sheets of baking paper and squidge them with your hand until flat, thin, round(ish) and big enough to wrap around an egg. Wrap the meat around the eggs, pinching it together to seal up the joins and rolling the balls between your hands to make them as smooth and even as possible. Beat the remaining three eggs in a shallow bowl, put the flour in another bowl and the breadcrumbs in a third. One at a time, roll the balls in the flour, then in the egg (rolling them about to totally cover them), then in the breadcrumbs, rolling them about again and making sure there are no gaps. Return each breadcrumbed egg for a second dip in the beaten egg and then give them a final go in the breadcrumbs. This last time, pick the scotch eggs up and press them gently between your palms to press the breadcrumbs into them a bit. Wash your hands between each egg. Half-fill a pan large enough to comfortably hold two eggs at a time with oil and heat to 180C. If you don’t have a probe thermometer, a small cube of bread should bubble and turn golden in 20 seconds. Carefully lower half the scotch eggs into the hot oil using a slotted spoon and fry for 5 mins, rolling them about regularly until golden brown. Remove using the slotted spoon and repeat with the other eggs. Let them all relax together on a wire rack for 10 mins before halving and eating, dunked in the yogurt.

Max Halley is the owner of cult north London spot Max’s Sandwich Shop, and a sandwich and condiment expert. He regularly appears on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch and is the author of four books, including his latest, Cooking with Sausages. Find him on Instagram @lunchluncheon.

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Smoke and spice Beef Manchurian, p60

Spiced roast side of salmon with capers, p58

Give your table a touch of Bengali flavour with these rich, vibrant recipes Recipes KISHWAR CHOWDHURY Photographs ARMELLE HABIB 59

Beef Manchurian

Prawn malaicurry

Manchurian-style dishes are a hallmark of BanglaChinese cuisine. They are traditionally made with chicken, fish, prawns, paneer and even vegetables, but in Bangladesh, where beef is a favoured protein, this version has gained popularity. The dish itself was likely created in Kolkata by Chinese settlers experimenting with Indian spices. Unlike traditional Chinese stir-fried beef dishes, the Bangla-Chinese version leans heavily on deep-frying for a crisp texture, and its gravy is thicker, making it ideal for pairing with the region’s favourite accompaniments like hakka noodles or Bangla fried rice.

An absolute titan in the world of curries, this dish is synonymous with indulgent feasts, the unmistakable fragrance of coconut milk infused with warming spices filling the air. It is traditionally made with golda chingri, the world's largest freshwater prawns. Their naturally sweet, buttery flesh is the perfect carrier for the delicate curry base, absorbing layers of spice and silkiness from the coconut milk. The true magic, however, lies in the rich, briny essence within the prawn’s head that melts into the sauce, adding an intensity that no store-bought stock could replicate.

SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY oil, for deep-frying MEATBALLS 500g minced beef 1 /4 cabbage, shredded 1 tbsp cornflour 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 2.5cm piece of ginger, minced 1 green chilli, finely chopped 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 egg, lightly beaten GRAVY 2 tbsp peanut oil 1 small onion, diced 1 pepper, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 2.5cm piece of ginger, minced 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp oyster sauce 1 tsp chilli sauce 1 tbsp vinegar 1 tbsp cornflour spring onions, to garnish To make the meatballs, combine all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Using your hands, mix thoroughly until the ingredients are evenly incorporated, then shape it into compact walnut-sized balls. Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Once the oil is hot, carefully lower the meatballs into the pan in batches, being careful not to overcrowd them. Fry until they turn a rich golden brown, are crisp on the outside and juicy inside. Remove the meatballs with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper while you prepare the gravy. Heat the peanut oil and fry the onion, pepper, garlic and ginger until they soften and release their aromas. Add the soy, oyster sauce, chilli, vinegar and 100ml of water, stirring well. Bring to a simmer. Mix the cornflour with 3 tbsp of water to create a slurry and add this to the pan, stirring continuously until the gravy thickens to a glossy consistency. Add the meatballs to the pan, tossing them gently until they are hot and coated in the gravy. Let them absorb the gravy for a minute before taking the pan off the heat. Serve hot, garnished with freshly chopped spring onions.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY 2 large onions 8 golda chingri or extra-large king prawns 2 tsp ground turmeric 60ml mustard oil 4 tbsp ghee 4 cardamom pods 2 cinnamon sticks 2 bay leaves 1 tbsp garlic and ginger paste 1 tsp garam masala 1 /2 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp tomato purée 425g tin of tomatoes pinch of saffron pinch of sugar 400ml coconut cream lemon wedges, to garnish 4 green chillies, slit down the middle, to garnish Roughly chop the onions then blitz to a purée in a blender. Next prepare the prawns, keeping on the heads and shells but removing the veins. Rub with 1 tsp each of salt and turmeric. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan. Once the oil starts to shimmer, gently fry the prawns for 2-3 mins, flipping once to get a light char on each side. This quick-fry intensifies their natural sweetness while sealing in the juices. Remove the prawns from the pan and set aside on kitchen paper. In the same pan, lower the heat and add the ghee to the oil. Once the ghee starts to glisten, toss in the cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks and bay. Let them bloom for 1 min to release their aromas, then stir in the onion purée, garlic and ginger paste, garam masala, chilli and remaining teaspoon of turmeric. Cook the onions very slowly until they turn golden brown and sweet. Add the tomato purée and tomatoes along with the saffron and sugar. Stir well, letting the tomatoes break down and take on a caramelised note. You’ll notice the oil begin to separate, indicating that the ingredients have melded. Pour in the coconut cream, stirring to combine, and season generously with salt and pepper. Simmer over a low heat for 5 mins, allowing the gravy to thicken slightly. Once the sauce is lush and aromatic, gently return the prawns back into the pan, ensuring they are well coated in the gravy. Cover and cook for 7 mins, which is just enough time for them to absorb the spices from the sauce without turning rubbery. Finish with a squeeze of lemon and scatter over the chillies.

Doi begun (aubergine in spiced yogurt) There are dishes that are quietly magnificent, that hold their own even among the most lavish of spreads, and doi begun is unquestionably one of them. This vegetarian standout proudly takes its place alongside the meat, fish and poultry that usually dominate a Bengali dawat, a hosting table brimming with indulgent delights. My mother, raised in Kolkata, had an almost magical way with vegetables. While my father’s side of the family treated vegetables as an afterthought – a formality at best, with salads often relegated to decorative garnish – my mother’s dishes defied all expectations. Her velvety aubergine, fried until golden and tender, and nestled in a rich, creamy bed of thick yogurt, and dusted lightly with ground cumin and Kashmiri chilli, was nothing short of revelatory. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 1 aubergine 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp chilli powder 4 tbsp mustard oil 250g greek yogurt handful of coriander, finely chopped 1 tbsp pomegranate seeds pinch of Kashmiri chilli powder pinch of ground cumin pinch of chaat masala TEMPER 2 tbsp mustard oil 1 tsp panch phoron 2 dried red chillies Slice the aubergine into 3cm thick rounds, patting each piece dry with kitchen paper to remove excess moisture. Using a sharp knife make shallow crisscross slits on both sides of each round. Sprinkle the slices with the turmeric, chilli powder and 1 tsp of salt, making sure they are well coated. Set them aside for 5 mins to allow the flavours to absorb. In the meantime, heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Once the oil is hot but not smoking, carefully put the aubergine slices in the pan in a single layer. Shallow-fry in batches, flipping occasionally, until golden brown and tender on the inside. Transfer directly onto a flat serving tray – avoid using kitchen paper as a little of the infused oil adds extra depth of flavour to the dish. Whisk the yogurt with a pinch of salt until smooth and creamy, then generously spoon it over the warm aubergine slices. For the temper, heat the oil in a small pan and add the panch phoron and chillies. Let the spices sizzle until the mustard seeds start popping and the oil takes on a deep, fragrant aroma. Carefully pour over the yogurt-covered aubergine, letting it seep into the layers. To finish, sprinkle over the coriander and pomegranate for a pop of colour and freshness. Lightly dust the dish with chilli powder, ground cumin and chaat masala for an added burst of spice and tang. Serve at room temperature.

Shahi tukra I’ve always thought of shahi tukra as the amped-up South Asian equivalent of bread and butter pudding. Literally translating to ‘royal piece’ it’s a dessert rich not only in texture but in history, with its roots in the grand kitchens of the Mughal Empire. The nawabs loved decadent spices such as saffron and dried fruits like sultanas, using them in both their sweet and savoury recipes. SERVES 12 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS RESTING | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 6 slices of raisin bread, preferably a day old 120g ghee, for frying 700ml milk 300ml double or whipping cream 4 cardamom pods 75g white granulated sugar 7-8 saffron strands soaked in 1 tbsp of warm milk ½ tsp rosewater (optional) 1 tbsp slivered pistachios, to garnish dried rose petals, to garnish Trim the crusts off the bread for a neater presentation, then cut each slice into triangles. Heat the ghee in a frying pan over medium heat and fry the bread pieces until they turn crisp and golden on both sides. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. For the malai (cream), pour the milk and cream into a pot, add the cardamom pods and bring to a gentle boil. Lower the heat and allow to simmer, stirring often to prevent sticking. As a creamy layer forms on the surface, scrape it down into the milk and continue reducing until the mixture becomes thick, about one-third of its original volume. Stir in the sugar, saffron milk and a pinch of salt. Cook for a few more minutes before adding the rosewater, if desired. Remove the malai from the heat and allow it to cool slightly. To assemble the dessert, arrange the fried bread on a flat serving dish and generously spoon the cooled malai over the top. Scatter over the pistachios and rose petals to garnish.

Recipes extracted from Smoke, Rice, Water by Kishwar Chowdhury (£28, Hardie Grant). Photographs: Armelle Habib. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

Allow the shahi tukra to rest for 1 hr before serving: this deepens the flavours and gives the dessert its signature luxurious texture. Serve it at room temperature or chilled.

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Welcome to Ticino, the Swiss region where the sun lingers, the lakes sparkle and the air stays warm well into autumn. Picture sunny lakeland scenery, palm-lined shores, mountain views and long al fresco lunches. It’s the Swiss excellence you’d expect, infused with a distinctly Mediterranean ﬂair.

Switzerland’s Ticino region © Switzerland Tourism / Rob Lewis

The resorts of Locarno, Ascona and Lugano make perfect bases for an unforgettable autumn break, whether you’re enjoying a leisurely cruise on Lake Maggiore or Lake Lugano, heading into the mountains for panoramic walks, or riding through golden valleys on the scenic Centovalli Line train. Food lovers can browse Bellinzona’s vibrant Saturday market, linger over a wine tasting in Mendrisiotto’s glowing vineyards,

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Wine 101 with Kate Hawkings

Washington State With stunning landscapes and a diverse wine scene, this US state is ripe for discovery

espite being overshadowed by its famous neighbours Oregon and California to the south, Washington State is the second largest wine producer in the USA, home to more than 400 growers and 1,000 wineries. The main growing region is the Columbia Valley, a remarkable place encompassing several distinctive sub-regions with a unique geology formed by a series of huge floods at the end of the last Ice Age. In the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains to the west, it’s a mainly flat, semi-arid desert criss-crossed by rivers that irrigate the

vines as well as apples, cherries, hops and other crops. There is a huge diurnal range – temperatures in the summer can drop from around 40C to close to freezing overnight – which helps grapes retain acidity and freshness, an important factor in the face of climate change. Although vines were planted here by European settlers in the 19th century, the modern wine industry only kicked off in the late 1960s with plantings of mainly French varieties chosen to emulate the great wines of Bordeaux. These days more than 80 varieties are grown and wine is made in many different styles.

Main grapes Riesling is the state’s signature white grape, produced in wonderfully aromatic dry and off-dry styles, while chardonnay is also widely planted, often barrel-fermented but increasingly made crisper and more delicate without the use of oak. Other exciting grapes include chenin blanc, verdelho and albariño. Bordeaux varieties dominate the reds, mainly cabernet sauvignon and merlot, made traditionally with plenty of oak influence, concentration and alcohol. Rhône varieties also shine – syrah, grenache and mourvèdre – and often are more elegant, along with non-French grapes such as tempranillo and sangiovese, which are sometimes blended with white grapes to make very gluggable wines.

Something surprising Chateau Ste Michelle Chardonnay (£19, Majestic Wine) Washington’s oldest winery, established in 1967 and situated in Woodinville just outside Seattle, makes wine from grapes grown in the Columbia River Valley. This classic oaked chardonnay is rich and buttery with scents of dried apricots, warm pastry and toasted nuts. Great with creamy pasta sauces or a roast chicken.

Kate Hawkings is a wine consultant and author of The Little Book of Aperitifs: 50 Classic Cocktails and Delightful Drinks (£10, Quadrille). Follow her on Instagram @kate_hawkings.

Key styles Powerful reds are the region’s calling card, usually made in American oak barrels which impart bolder and sweeter flavours than their European counterparts. These wines, as well as oaky whites, are best decanted before serving to open up flavours and soften chewy tannins. While some boutique producers make lighter, fresher wines more suited to modern palates, few are available in the UK as they are made in very small quantities.

t Lone Birch Riesling (£12.50, thewinesociety.com) A smartly priced off-dry riesling from a family winery in the Yakima Valley region which grows its own grapes very much with an eye on sustainability. Fragrant with notes of peaches, pineapple, kiwis and lemon curd, its bright acidity keeps it fresh and very moreish. Try with gently spiced food.

Pursued By Bear Bear Cub Red 2021 (£42, hedonism.co.uk)

Blow o

Where to stay Washington State would make a thrilling road trip with its spectacular landscapes, outdoors activities and culinary scene. Visit cool urban wineries in buzzy Seattle, then drive over the Cascade Mountains into the grape-growing regions, finishing with a trip through the Columbia River gorge to Portland in Oregon. The Marcus Whitman Hotel is located in friendly Walla Walla city in the Walla Walla Valley AVA (American Viticulture Area), straddling the Washington/Oregon border, and there are several winery tasting rooms within easy reach of this lovely historic hotel.

From a winery founded by actor Kyle MacLachlan, this powerful cabernet sauvignon/merlot/syrah blend is firmly in the old world style, aged in French oak barrels, packed with ripe cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry fruit with notes of vanilla and chocolate. One for barbecues or a good steak on a rainy summer’s night.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JOHN FEDELE/TETRA IMAGES, TERRY EGGERS, ROBERT HOLMES/CORBIS, CAVAN IMAGES/GETTY

ge d u

Ask a somm sommelier melier Your easy guide to getting the most out of your wine glass

Zainab Majerikova, Ottolenghi Zainab is head of wine at Ottolenghi and has been part of the UK wine scene for the past 16 years, in a career that has seen her do everything from working as a wine buyer and head sommelier to running pop-ups. ottolenghi.co.uk Is there an unsung wine we should be making a beeline for this summer? Co-fermented wines are hugely underrated and, for me, one of the best answers to the perfect summer wine. These are wines where white and red grapes are fermented together, giving you the best of both worlds: the freshness of whites alongside the texture, grip and weight of reds. They can be served chilled and often sit somewhere between a light red, a dark rosé or even an amber wine, depending on the blend. In Portugal this style is known as palhete, while in parts of Central Europe – such as the Czech Republic and Slovakia – it’s called ryšák. I need to buy wine for a picnic – is there a crowd-pleasing all-rounder you always recommend? Pét-nat is the ultimate picnic wine. It’s fun, refreshing and often fantastic value for money. They come in all styles and colours: white, red, rosé and orange. You get the refreshing lift of bubbles for hot weather but if you want something with a bit more oomph, a red or rosé pét-nat is brilliant with pizza, salads, grilled meats and charcuterie. A white pét-nat, meanwhile, is perfect with salty snacks and finger food. Basically, every picnic basket should have one.

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Sip and snack Endlessly versatile and ideal for modern grazing, Bourgogne wines are the perfect pairing for easy, snack-ﬁrst entertaining

advertisement feature LOADED AND LOVELY Crémant de Bourgogne, Cave de Lugny Few things feel more of-the-moment than a bowl of loaded crisps topped with crème fraîche, chopped chives, smoked paprika and a snowfall of finely grated cheese. It’s nostalgic, but with a playful, grown-up edge. If you’re looking for a tipple that slips seamlessly into the mix, a Crémant de Bourgogne brings just the right sense of occasion. Gently sparkling, crisp and refined, it lifts the salt and richness of the crisps while keeping everything bright and refreshing. A natural fit for easy grazing that still feels a little celebratory. Avaiable at Waitrose

rom long lunches in the garden to impromptu picnics in the park, summer eating has become far less about formal courses and far more about relaxed, elevated snacking shared with friends – think loaded crisps piled high with toppings, tinned ﬁsh served on toast, buttery toasties and generous bowls of ‘picky bits’ passed around the table. With this more informal way of entertaining, Bourgogne wines – the new name for the great wines of Burgundy – feel right at home. From eastern France, the wines are known for their elegance, freshness and food-friendly precision. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir lead the way, shaping styles that are vibrant, expressive and, perhaps most importantly, made for the table. On the right, you’ll ﬁnd four key bottles matched with a modern ‘snack-led’ way of eating – each one is super-simple and designed for sharing.

THE ULTIMATE TOAST TOPPER Bourgogne Côte d’Or, White 2023, Domaine Pernot-Belicard Tinned fish on toast has quietly become a modern staple. After all, what could be more delicious than sardines or mackerel piled onto warm, buttered sourdough and finished with lemon, olive oil and plenty of black pepper? It’s simple, punchy and full of flavour. A Bourgogne Côte d’Or made from Chardonnay works beautifully here. Crisp and focused, with just enough texture to match the oiliness of the fish, it brings freshness and lift without overwhelming the dish. Available at Laithwaites

A ‘PICKY BITS’ PICNIC Bourgogne Côte d’Or, Red 2023, Domaine de la Choupette A spread of picky bits – charcuterie, marinated vegetables, dips, cheeses and whatever else ﬁlls the board – is the ultimate low-effort, high-impact way to entertain. It’s informal, generous and endlessly customisable. And when it comes to wine that matches the mood, you can’t go wrong with a light, lively Bourgogne Côte d'Or made from Pinot Noir. With soft tannins and bright red fruit, it works across salty, savoury ﬂavours and brings just enough structure to tie everything together. Available at Lea & Sandeman

PURE AND SIMPLE SNACKING Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune, White 2021, Maison Roche de Bellene Sometimes the simplest snacks are the most satisfying: a bowl of olives, cornichons, pickled onions and other briny bites, left to linger alongside a good bottle. This white Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune will elevate even the simplest spreads. Crisp, mineral and refreshing, it cuts through salt and acidity while resetting the palate between each bite. Available at Tanners

Try Bourgogne wines with your favourite summer dishes and learn more at bourgogne-wines.com 69

SUNSET SIPS

Make the most of golden hour with these fruity summer spritzes Recipes HANNAH GUINNESS Photographs ANT DUNCAN

CHILLI MANGO SUNRISE SPRITZ A fizzy riff on a retro tequila sunrise. You can use either tequila or mezcal here but the latter gives a smoky edge that works so well with the tropical mango and chilli.

50ml mezcal or blanco tequila 100ml mango juice prosecco, to top up 50ml grenadine Chamoy and Tajín, to serve mango wedge dipped in Tajín, to serve Put some Chamoy and Tajín into separate saucers. Take a large highball glass and dip first in the Chamoy then the Tajín (we like to do a deeper half rim on the glass to create a more dramatic visual effect). Add ice to the glass. Pour in the tequila and mango, and mix gently. Top up with a little prosecco and gently mix again. Slowly pour over the grenadine and wait until it sinks to the bottom of the glass. Garnish with a mango wedge dipped in Tajín before serving.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: DAVINA MAJI. FOOD STYLIST: AMY KINNEAR

SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY

RASPBERRY AND HIBISCUS

SPRITZ

You can make hibiscus syrup from dried hibiscus petals, or ready-made versions are widely available.

SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY handful of raspberries, plus extra to garnish 25ml raspberry liqueur 50ml hibiscus syrup 25ml gin prosecco, to top up

Put the raspberries, raspberry liqueur and hibiscus syrup in a large copa de balon or wine glass, and gently muddle together. Add ice to the glass, pour over the gin and gently stir. Top up with the prosecco and gently stir again. Garnish with more raspberries.

YUZU AND BERGAMOT

SPRITZ

If you can’t find yuzu juice then you can also use lemon – although the former will add a lovely floral note that complements the bergamot.

SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY 50ml bergamot liqueur (we used Italicus) 15ml yuzu juice prosecco, to top up rosemary sprigs and lemon slices, to garnish

Put the bergamot liqueur and yuzu juice in a large wine glass filled with ice. Gently stir, then top up with the prosecco. Garnish with lemon slices and thyme sprigs.

ψ 1RYHPEHU NEC, BIRMINGHAM

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The Ultimate Z R K 6  G ∅ ) V D P W &KU LV One venue. Four festive days. Endless reasons to visit.

Good Food

hether you’re coming for the celebrity chefs, seasonal shopping, hands-on workshops, tempting tastings or unforgettable dining experiences, the Festive Good Food Show, sponsored by Princess Cruises, is the ultimate Christmas day out. Discover new favourites experiences, enjoy festive treats and immerse yourself in the magic of the season. Soak up the festive atmosphere and join us at Birmingham NEC from 26–29 November.

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Good Food Tasted is where the serious business of food takes a delicious detour into pure, unfiltered fun. Every session is different, and every single one is guaranteed to have you loving every second. Think Chilli Eating Competitions, Chef Cook Offs and Creative Ideas for Christmas Leftovers, with plenty of Audience Participation.

The Kitchen

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Returning this year is The Kitchen Clinic - a stage built around conversation where top food experts share their knowledge, and open the floor to you! Led by a top food expert each session is designed to be as interactive and useful as possible – whether you’re a complete beginner or a seasoned home cook looking to improve.

Remedy Sodaly £1.95/250ml can, ocado.com A grown-up soft drink that, thanks to the apple cider vinegar base, has a thirst-quenching tang. Our favourite flavours are the tropical pineapple and citrussy yuzu.

Strucchi vermouths £16/750ml, M&S Every drinks cupboard needs a vermouth and these are both great all-rounders. The herbaceous bianco is delicious sipped neat over ice, while the rosso – alive with bright citrus and spice – is a solid choice if you’re making a negroni.

El Supremo 5 Year Old £29/700ml, masterofmalt.com

Aperitif hour

This affordable rum from Paraguay is distilled from fresh sugarcane honey. The end result is easy drinking, with honey, sweet vanilla and peppery notes. A great rum for summer.

Beautiful bottles and barware to take your cocktails to the next level Words HANNAH GUINNESS

Small Beer Mexican lager £15/6 x 330ml cans, theoriginalsmallbeer.com The Pickle House Mezcal Mary £59/12 x 250ml cans, thepicklehouse.com

Made in collaboration with Mexican chef Adriana Cavita using homegrown and Mexican corn, this is bright and flavourful, and, at 2.5% ABV, pleasingly sessionable.

This twist on a bloody mary is made with mezcal instead of the usual vodka, creating an earthy, smoky, ultra-savoury cocktail. Drink straight from the can or serve over ice garnished with pickled chillies.

Mini cocktail shaker £28, anthropologie.com Ideal for shaking up solo cocktails and dinky enough to carry in your hand luggage.

Enamel lemon bottle stop £12.50, oliverbonas.com

Acrylic goblets £40/set of four, anthropologie.com

Essential for keeping your wine fresh, with a cheerful design to boot.

The holy grail for picnic drinks – chic yet sturdy.

Hugo Mendes Pitau Clarete 2024, £19.50/750ml, charliesdrinksstore.co.uk Bright and lively, with lots of crunchy red fruits. A light red to drink chilled in warmer weather.

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Savour every moment Enjoy a curated blend of elevated foodie experiences at the ﬁrst ever Good Food weekend in partnership with Reserve by Warner Hotels

his year, Reserve by Warner Hotels and Good Food are inviting you to spend a whole weekend exploring new ﬂavours at The Runnymede on Thames near Windsor. Taking place on 9-12 October 2026, this exclusive retreat brings together some of the country’s most celebrated culinary minds for three days of exceptional food and drink. From live demos and insightful panel discussions to intimate Q&As, immersive masterclasses and interactive challenges, you’ll discover new techniques and gain rich insights into an ingredient’s journey from farm to table – all while tasting a range of delicious dishes along the way. Plus, your stay includes seasonal dining at the hotel's riverside venues, unhurried time in its calming spa sanctuaries and live evening entertainment.

Your riverside retreat

Located on the banks of the River Thames just minutes from historic Windsor, The Runnymede on Thames is one of three unique and sophisticated properties in the Reserve by Warner Hotels collection. Blending riverside tranquillity with contemporary indulgence, it’s the ideal setting for a relaxing autumn getaway, offering plenty of ways to unwind. At mealtimes, you can explore the fresh, seasonal menus at the two on-site restaurants, Market Kitchen and Brasserie32, where British heritage recipes are reimagined with a modern twist. Meanwhile, the Riverside Lounge is the place to go for expertly crafted drinks, light bites and serene terrace views. In your free time, you can make the most of the hotel’s award-winning spa facilities, including an 18-metre heated indoor pool, whirlpool bath, sauna and steam room. Later, step into the Live Lounge to enjoy an exclusive evening performance before retiring to your stylish, air-conditioned bedroom, complete with plush bedding, soft bathrobes and elegant toiletries.

THE GUEST EXPERTS Renowned chef and celebrated TV presenter Matt Tebbutt will be bringing his characteristic warmth and exceptional culinary craft to the live stage.

Good Food’s esteemed skills and shows editor Barney Desmazery will be sharing professional techniques to effortlessly take your cooking to the next level.

Acclaimed broadcaster, author and food expert Chris Bavin will be hosting lively discussions on seasonal produce and home cooking.

Award-winning mixologist and flavour innovator Carmen O’Neal will be sharing all the precise secrets behind creating perfectly balanced cocktails.

Discover more about the weekend at warnerhotels.co.uk/goodfood 76

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REBELLION BEER COMPANY, MARLOW BOTTOM, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE This bucolic microbrewery on a farm near Marlow has turned old buildings and grain stores into a bustling outfit with an impressive, spacious tap yard. Open seven days a week (there’s also an on-site drive-through), there’s plenty of seating where you can enjoy beers made less than 100 metres away. They range from traditional cask ales to NEIPAs, and are brewed using water drawn from the surrounding Chiltern Hills. There’s also a rotating line-up of street food, from Caribbean dishes to wood-fired pizzas. rebellionbeer.co.uk

What to order Keep an eye out for the monthly seasonal ales, or sip on a pint of crisp Rebellion lager pilsner.

HALF MOON BAY BREWING COMPANY, CALIFORNIA, USA Craving ocean vistas with your afternoon beer? Located about 30 miles south of San Francisco, this harbourfront brewery has an expansive sun-drenched patio that offers shimmering panoramic views of the Pacific. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy the brewery’s accessible range of classic styles, which you can also take home in four-packs, crowlers or growlers. The location in picturesque Pillar Point Harbour, with its proximity to stunning nearby beaches and coastal trails, makes it a great end point to a day trip. hmbbrewingco.com

What to order Try the Half Moon Bay hefeweizen – a great match to the kitchen’s seafood dishes, which include New England clam chowder and fresh oysters.

FIVE POINTS TAPROOM & COURTYARD, HACKNEY, LONDON When the sun makes an appearance in east London, every available terrace, beer garden and rooftop becomes jam-packed – which is why this sprawling brewery situated under the railway arches is a useful go-to in summer, with a massive 450-seater garden where you can sip tank-fresh pints. Open Thursday to Sunday (with brewery tours on Saturdays), food comes in the form of open-fire barbecue, courtesy of From the Ashes – expect smoked beef short rib, savoury pork and ’nduja doughnuts, plus whole animal roasts on Sundays. fivepointsbrewing.co.uk

What to order We like the crushable, juicy JUPA pale ale.

READER OFFER

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Enjoy a foodie break at Emberwood, Bath Book now for a great saving and look forward to top-quality dining and a wonderfully comfortable overnight stay in this beautiful, historic city From

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Voted by The Times as one of the top 12 restaurants of 2025, recognised by the Michelin Guide within three months of opening and winner of Bath Life’s restaurant of the year, Emberwood is setting the dining scene alight in Bath in more ways than one. And you could enjoy a very exclusive foodie break here. Located in the Francis Hotel, right in the heart of Bath, Emberwood was part of a recent multimillion-pound reimagination. Executive chef David Hazell has created a menu based on honest cooking, seasonal ingredients and local provenance, all cooked over an open flame in front of you. Start with fresh Isle of Wight tomatoes or coal-roasted scallops dripping in garlic butter. Follow with dry-aged côte de boeuf and beef-fat béarnaise or Cornish hake with caramelised fennel and samphire. Speak to the team about pairing your meal with one of Emberwood’s innovative cocktails. A refreshing Green Goddess before you dine perhaps, or a negroni as a nightcap before bed. With a huge wine list to choose from, be guided by the team of wine experts who really know what works with which dish. And once the dessert trolley has left your table and the last crumb has been devoured, take a very short stroll to your room and sink into the comfiest of beds. No need for a taxi, your car left safely in the car park. As a reader of olive magazine, we are giving you the opportunity to take advantage of a delicious meal in Emberwood and an overnight stay at the Francis Hotel for a snip of the usual price. From £270, your midweek break is the perfect foodie getaway.

OFFER DETAILS • £150 credit to spend in Emberwood • Stay in a double/twin room (room only)

To book this great deal and see all the terms and conditions, visit francishotel.com/olive and use the offer code OLIVE26 TERMS AND CONDITIONS Offer based on two adults sharing a double/twin room is valid for stays Sunday-Thursday from 16 July-31 March 2027, excluding Bath Christmas markets, 26 November-13 December, 24 and 31 December, and subject to availability on a room-only basis. Supplements will be applied for upgrades. Full pre-payment will be taken on booking. We will ask for a pre-authorisation on check-in to cover any spend over the credit amount. If the full £150 amount is not used there is no refund and no cash alternative. We recommend guests book their table in Emberwood once they have booked their stay due to the popularity of the restaurant. Bookings cannot be cancelled, transferred or refunded. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer, discount or promotion. The Emberwood credit can be used on any food and drink at the hotel including breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea or evening meal. Book online using the promo code OLIVE26.

S L O W

T R A V E L

The land where time stands still With forest hikes, idyllic beaches and plenty of wildlife, this remote Canadian town offers a chance to truly switch off Words MOLLY CODYRE

PHOTOGRAPHS: OWEN PERRY, BRIAN CAISSIE/DESTINATION BC

he ‘town at the end of the road’, as Tofino is nicknamed, lives up to its slightly haunting moniker. The journey to get here is an experience all on its own: you take the ferry from Horseshoe Bay in north Vancouver, pulling out from the mainland into an archipelago layered with mist that threads the needle through islands covered in douglas fir and sitka spruce. If you’re lucky, you might catch an otter sluicing through the water along the shoreline while seabirds soar overhead. In just under two hours you’ll pull into Nanaimo on Vancouver Island’s east coast. From here you drive for three hours into the interior of the island through dense deciduous forest, along the

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PHOTOGRAPHS: EMILY NORTON/E+/GETTY, CHRIS POUGET

shoreline of emerald lakes and past gushing waterfalls as civilisation slips further and further away. When you eventually pop out onto the west coast, it’s easy to see why it feels like the town is set at the edge of the earth. Found at the end of Highway Four, also known as the Pacific Rim Highway, on British Columbia’s Vancouver Island, Tofino seems to rise suddenly out of a forest that is home to some of the oldest trees in the world. Occupying the tip of Esowista Peninsula, stretching out into the Clayoquot Sound, the town itself is protected from the whims of the Pacific Ocean but its surrounding beaches bear the full brunt of this wild body of water, creating a haven for surfers, with waves curling and frothing on the shore of temperate rainforest. While the Tla-o-qui-aht people have been living along the Clayoquot Sound for thousands of years, Tofino was first populated by European settlers in the 1850s. The town quickly grew with a booming logging industry and a growing commercial fishing industry, earning it the nickname Tuff City. The opening of the logging road to the general public connecting the town to Port Alberni in 1964 brought in a new wave of tourism, visitors drawn by the town’s immense wilderness and limitless swathes of coastline. It’s the great waves on those beaches that eventually drew in a bohemian community and many more tourists along with them. These days tourism is the main economic driver of the area with more than a million people visiting each year, the majority coming in the summer to make the most of the long days and access to the ocean. But a growing

number are visiting in the cooler months, too, for a bubbling industry – storm watching. It’s the promise of this that has us travelling down Highway Four on a crisp autumn day – that, and fewer crowds to navigate around. Making our way out of Nanaimo, we follow the curving road through to Port Alberni, pulling into J&L Drive-In for burgers to fuel the next 125 kilometres of driving through deep wilderness. Serving up the platonic ideal of a perfect burger, J&L Drive-In is like a hallmark from a bygone era, one where you pull up to burger joints in your car, have your order taken at your window and your food delivered, all without stepping a foot outside the vehicle. In fact, being slingshotted back a few decades, or centuries, seems to be a defining element of this road trip. There are few places left in the world where you can drive through forests as robust or as old as the one that sits between Vancouver Island’s east and west coasts. The douglas firs and western red cedars that line the highway are hundreds or sometimes even thousands of years old. They have stood as stoic witnesses to the area’s development and tourism boom over the years. The same trees I drive past, full of a bacon cheeseburger and marvelling at the way the light dapples through the early autumn ochre leaves, were still standing there when this road was built and, even earlier, when this land was home to bears and cougars, and the indigenous community who may have been passing through. You can feel echoes of that history all around you on the drive and it seems with every passing mile the modern world is left well and truly behind. While you could easily just visit Tofino for a couple of nights, see the beaches and tick off a few hikes, this is the kind of town you want to stay a while, slip into its rhythms and let nature drop your cortisol levels in the process. We arrive with seven nights

PHOTOGRAPHS: GRAEME OWSIANSKI/DESTINATION BC, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, SUSAN LOW, FRANCESCO RICCARDO LACOMINO/MOMENT/GETTY

While you could easily just visit Tofino for a couple of nights, see the beaches and tick off a few hikes, this is the kind of town you want to stay a while, slip into its rhythms and let nature drop your cortisol levels

ahead of us and, in order to fully contextualise the town, head out onto the water of the sound on our first day, courtesy of Ahous Adventures, owned by the Ahousaht Nation. The clouds that were pouring with rain just minutes before clear all of a sudden as we motor out into the sound, shining a spotlight on a vibrant double rainbow as a burst of water in the distance grabs our attention – a gray whale surfacing briefly before diving back into the inky depths. We watch her come and go for a while, her enormous body languidly skimming the surface at regular intervals, her fluke briefly flying into the air, before turning to head around Wickaninnish Island, towards the open ocean. Swell rocks the boat as we peer at a pair of bald eagles perched in a tree, and mangled piles of bull kelp float past. The tour continues through the broiling sea before we turn back into the sound, quietly flying along placid waters keeping our eyes peeled for enormous floats of sea otters, barking seals and shoreline animals foraging for food. Apart from the odd fellow tour boat, there is no civilisation to be seen until we start to make our way back towards town. We make a beeline for Adriana’s, a pizza shop that serves whopping NY-style slices and bouncy focaccia sandwiches to refuel. Food in Tofino has developed in line with the city’s tourism, splitting off into two key factions: easy grab and go food that you can inhale between surf sessions or hikes along forestladen coastline, and restaurants that tend to serve Pacific Northwest-centric food that makes the most of the region’s abundant larder. One of Tofino’s most famous exports, Tacofino, falls into the former camp. With 12 locations across Canada, this much-loved Cali-Mexican joint started out in 2009 in a food truck at the back of a gravel parking lot on the road

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PHOTOGRAPHS: SUSAN LOW, FRANCESCO RICCARDO LACOMINO/MOMENT/GETTY

into Tofino. It quickly became a cult favourite, slinging tacos and burritos, inspired by the owner’s travels across California and Mexico. We return time and time again across the week for crunchy beer battered fish tacos and piquant, moreish tortilla soup. Just like we return to Wildside Grill just in front of it for seafood chowder and sticky Korean chicken bowls. In town we make a few trips to Shed for cheeseburgers and the best house beer – brewed in collaboration with Tofino Brewing Co up the road. Dinners take place at restaurants like Ombré, where dishes like beef carpaccio with local chanterelles and rye campanelle with chicken jus bring a Mediterranean-accented slice of autumn to the plate, or the waterfront Shelter where vaulted ceilings and enormous windows drink in the view of the sound beyond, and Vancouver Island oysters and whopping plates of local fish soup are washed down with Okanagan chardonnay. The food and drink in Tofino inherently reflect this curious town that has sprouted in the middle of the wilderness but, paradoxically, feel far more international than you would ever expect from somewhere so remote. It feels like a metaphor for the place itself: somewhere that whispers with its history and feels steeped in the stories of its past. The kind of town where whales regularly glide through its waters, bears amble down forest paths a stone’s throw from the main street, and a cougar is known to pop up in a local’s garden on occasion – and yet somewhere that, like a siren song, attracts residents and visitors from across the world. It might take a while to get to this surf town at the end of the road but, once you’re here, time slows down, and when you do eventually emerge back onto the Trans-Canada Highway, it’ll feel like you were gone for a lifetime.

Boutique

retreats

Enjoy the best of the summer sunshine at these retreats offering long lunches, chic cocktails and swoon-worthy sunsets

BINIDUFÀ, MENORCA, SPAIN In a nutshell Vestige Collection’s newest boutique retreat awaits in Menorca’s rugged north. What’s the vibe? At this remote estate, which is home to a restored 18th-century finca, the custodians of the land are committed to reflecting the island’s wilder side – gravelly terracotta soil crunches beneath as you wind through cacti, prickly pears, olive trees and wildflowers, while the infinity pool basks in the basin of the valley. Which room to book? The 11 rooms are meticulously designed to further echo their earthy surrounds. Dusty pink hues of brushed plaster are complemented by raw materials, such as stone walls, exposed beams and dark wood. The walls above the headboards double up as a chic private gallery, with shelves lined with books, clay vases and ceramic plates, while upholstered chairs, vintage apothecary chests and marble side tables add elegant finishes. Luxurious bathrooms are like individual spas thanks to their sunken baths, walk-in showers and Rowse toiletries. Food and drink Mesura restaurant is nestled at the top of the property, its outdoor bar an ideal spot for an olive brine-laced cocktail. Warm, crusty bread rolls arrive with a trio of local accompaniments in a ceramic shell, including salt from the fishing village of Fornells. The menu is plant-based, with the option of omnivore additions – think salt cod to dress pumpkin hummus, jamón ibérico sliced over fresh tomato gazpacho ravioli and aubergine baked Menorcan-style. Mango slices to finish are lifted with curry leaf foam and spicy herb ice cream. Shaded poolside terraces host relaxed lunches of stuffed Menorcan rolls, estate-grown watermelon gazpacho and fresh tomato and stracciatella salad. What’s for breakfast? Breakfast is à la carte and taken at Mesura, where you can soak up the morning vistas and plot your hikes for the day. Signature toasts include Menorcan sobrassada and pan con tomate before eggs to order, crêpes and açai bowls topped with fresh berries, all accompanied by island roasted coffee and fresh orange juice. Anything else? Arrange to be whisked up to sister property Son Ermità (pictured opposite), which is perched atop a hill with swoony views of the rugged coastline, for sunset cocktails and dinner at Brĩsa. Here, the focus is on meat and fish – think vermella aged beef tartare, langoustine ravioli and suckling pig accompanied by cinnamon apple timbale.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANA LUI PHOTOGRAPHY

Rooms from £541 including breakfast, vestigecollection.com

GUNDARI, FOLEGANDROS, GREECE In a nutshell A cliffside retreat on one of the Aegean’s most unspoilt islands – 80 acres of raw Cycladic wilderness and genuine seclusion make it feel like a well kept secret. What’s the vibe? Gundari sits high above the sea on Folegandros, one of the lesser-known Cyclades islands – it’s dramatic, slow-paced and authentically Greek. Athens design studio Block722 has drawn its palette from the landscape: bleached stone, raw linen, dusty whites and sandy ochres. The 30 suites and villas are bio-climatically designed and solar-powered, built low into the cliffside so nothing feels imposed on the landscape. Which room to book? The standard suite gives you an airy 35 square metres of space plus a private pool on the terrace, with the Aegean spread out in front of you. For something more dramatic, the cave suites are carved into the cliff edge, and are subterranean and spectacular, with larger pools. Food and drink The restaurant is overseen by Lefteris Lazarou, Greece’s first Michelin-starred chef. At Orizon, taramasalata dusted with bottarga powder and chive oil arrives saline and deeply fishy, best heaped onto freshly made pitta. The matsata with calamari and cuttlefish ink is the dish to order: a local fresh pasta with an earthiness that is lifted beautifully by lime. The wine list draws on neighbouring island vineyards, including Manalis on Sikinos. What’s for breakfast? Cooked to order, must-try dishes include the sweet trahanas (Greek grain cooked with milk and honey, and topped with apricots and figs), which sits somewhere between rice pudding and porridge but is nuttier. For savoury get the kagianas: scrambled eggs with tomato, oregano and fat chunks of local feta, as briny as the sea that surrounds the island. Anything else? A subterranean cliff-edge spa draws on ancient Greek healing traditions and wild-harvested island botanicals. Complimentary shuttles run into town regularly and the team actively encourages you to use them.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANA SANTI

Rooms from £657, gundari.com

MARGATE HOUSE, MARGATE In a nutshell A restored Regency-era townhouse with its own cosy bistro off Cliftonville’s golden seafront. What’s the vibe? From immaculate rose cornicing to a candle-lined apothecary cabinet and dusty pink sofas positioned round a stone fireplace, there’s a thoughtful collision of restored features, contemporary art and antique pieces here. Locals stop in for aperitifs at the adjoining bar, which is softly lit with opalescent table lamps – hop onto one of the comfy pink bar stools to enjoy a similarly rose-hued Margate cosmo laced with pomegranate grenadine. Which room to book? There are nine rooms, all of which are unique and varying in size (Room 6, for example, has large French windows and an exposed brick fireplace) but keep to the signature earthy colour palette and contemporary design – think wavy velvet headboards, pop art and chocolate brown seats. A roll call of boutique luxuries elevate this from guesthouse to hotel – in your room you’ll find Roberts radios, Le Labo toiletries and a generous snack drawer. Food and drink Tucked away at the back of the building, Willy’s Restaurant oozes intimate bistro feels with wood-fringed marble tables, chequerboard flooring, frilly wall lamps and velvet banquettes, all sealed with a classic jazz soundtrack. Perch at the quartz counter and watch chef Lewis Johnson elevate comfort food classics. Kick off with leek and cheese croquettes before enjoying caper-dressed beef tartare served with dripping toast. Hearty mains include Cumberland sausages and mash with red wine jus, harissa-spiced butter bean casserole and roast ham with duck egg and chips. The sticky toffee pudding is rich and treacly, with stem ginger ice cream that melts into the silky toffee sauce – a perfect partner to a cognac digestif. What’s for breakfast? Breakfast is taken in the homely basement parlour, where a pink Aga takes centre stage as guests gradually pad down to congregate round one large table. As well as a classic full English, the succinct menu breathes life into the usual contenders – avocado toast lifted with almond chilli oil, smoked salmon and horseradish cream atop Guinness soda bread, or pan con tomate for a peppy Mediterranean option. Rooms from £200, margatehouse.co.uk

Why I love

Provence 94

Pastry chef Léa Fanchon shares the unmissable dishes, patisserie and produce from her home in this distinctive region of south-east France

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This traditional dish, found on restaurant menus along the French Riviera, consists of spring vegetables, steamed potatoes and steamed fish, served with aïoli sauce (a mayonnaise-style sauce made with potato, saffron and garlic). It’s perfectly paired with rosé wine.

Fresh produce

We are lucky to have some of the best fresh produce – Provence is sometimes even called the ‘garden of France’. We make the most of high-quality veg in the likes of ratatouille mopped up with crusty baguette, and the town of Menton’s lemons are so fragrant and sweet (you can even eat the pith) that there’s a festival dedicated to the citrus every year.

Daube provençale

This slow-cooked beef stew is flavoured with red wine, brandy, veg, thyme and tomatoes, then finished with orange zest and

olives. We often serve it straight to the table, family-style, in its terracotta pot (called a daubière) with bread.

Herbes de Provence

The region’s aromatic herbs can be found all along the coastal path of Cap d’Antibes. The most prevalent are thyme, rosemary, marjoram, savory, lavender and rock samphire. They are often sold as a dried mixture to enhance slow-cooked dishes such as niçoise-style stuffed vegetables. Lavender is also celebrated in Provence’s cuisine – for example, I love making lavender ice cream, while fresh basil is combined with garlic and olive oil to make popular local pesto, pistou.

Olives

Olives in all their forms play a huge part in Provençal cuisine – served as an aperitif, whizzed into a tapenade or turned into olive oil to add liquid gold seasoning to every dish. I love niçoise olives (also called cailletier).

WORDS: GURDEEP LOYAL, ZAZIE ATKINSON, LUCY BRIDGE. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS/INGWERVANILLE/MOMENT, STEVEN FREMONT/THE IMAGE BANK UNRELEASED/GETTY

Provençal aïoli

Sunday lunch

Sundays often mean long family meals in the sunshine of the French Riviera. My favourite includes courgette flower fritters followed by petits farcis (round courgettes, onions or tomatoes stuffed with minced meat, breadcrumbs and fresh herbs) and fresh pastries for dessert.

flatbread often referred to as the French pizza, most commonly topped with caramelised onions, anchovies and black olives (if you’re in Antibes make sure you get one from the famous Boulangerie Veziano). On the sweet side, fougassette is flavoured with orange blossom water.

Apéro La tarte tropézienne

This cake-like brioche pastry is filled with a unique combination of pastry cream and buttercream. The original handwritten recipe, created in 1955 by Polish immigrant Alexandre Micka when opening his pastry shop in SaintTropez, is trusted to only three people but many versions are recreated across the region.

Flatbreads

Socca, a thin unleavened chickpea bread, is a must when strolling through Old Nice, as is pissaladière, a salty-sweet

Aperitif is a ritual in Provence, often fuelled with aniseedflavoured pastis or a southern variation with orgeat syrup known as La Mauresque. I also love adding a splash of orgeat syrup to an iced coffee for the ultimate summer drink.

Originally from Antibes, pastry chef Léa Fanchon has experience at some of the most renowned luxury boutiques and hotels on the French Riviera as well as Corsica, and is currently working with Michelin restaurant chef Mauro Colagreco.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

We make the most of high-quality veg in the likes of ratatouille mopped up with crusty baguette, and the town of Menton’s lemons are so fragrant and sweet there’s a festival dedicated to the citrus

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THREE OF THE PRETTIEST PROVENÇAL VILLAGES TO VISIT Gordes

The hilltop village of Gordes is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful villages in the world. With its high altitude and limestone soil it is renowned for its winter truffles, Banon goat’s cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves and local honey, all for sale at Gordes’ Tuesday market set amidst the village’s renaissance castle. For an authentic taste of the region try La Trinquette, which serves up a modern take on traditional dishes, like its crab and red snapper ravioli, tender lamb chops, stuffed aubergines and well-soaked rum baba.

Just 15 minutes from Saint-Tropez, the village of Ramatuelle mixes rustic Provençal tranquillity with full-on sandy coastal luxury. One of the culinary highlights of the village is Chez Camille, famous for its wood-fired bouillabaisse cooked to a family recipe that dates back to 1953. Other menu highlights include its lobster linguine, Provençal calamari and pavlova aux fruits rouges.

Tourrettes-sur-Loup

Also known as ‘the city of violets’, Tourrettes-sur-Loup is an artistic village perched on a rocky spur, filled with quaint vaulted passages, some excellent food and lots of galleries that sell the local speciality, violet ice cream. The refined menu at Le Clovis Bistrot Gourmand offers something a little different – focussing in on one seasonal ingredient, with menu options built around that speciality, be it Saint-Jacques scallops, Bresse poultry or Provençal green asparagus.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: GENEKREBS/E+, DAVID CLAPP/STONE/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, LY PICTURES

Ramatuelle

WHERE TO STAY Coquillade, Gargas

Set among vast vineyards, lavender fields and olive groves beneath the Luberon mountains, Coquillade Provence encapsulates the rustic romance of the region. Centred around a beautifully restored 11thcentury hamlet, guests are invited to live by its motto, ‘la vie, le vin, le velo’ through wine tastings in the on-site winery and cellar, guided e-bike tours weaving through nearby hilltop villages and long afternoons spent in the sleek contemporary spa. Though home to 69 rooms, the sprawling estate feels like a private retreat, with jasmine-scented stone pathways and hidden courtyards perfect for morning coffee or afternoon reading. The chef ’s garden supplies the restaurants and cocktail bar with fresh herbs, fruits and vegetables, which are featured in refined French and Italian dishes. Summer evenings revolve around the outdoor rotisserie, with vegetables cooked Provençal style, while mornings start with a buffet of buttery pastries, brioche breads, creamy scrambled eggs and fresh fruit. Rooms blend the hamlet’s historic charm with modern luxury, with the new Luberon suites overlooking vineyards and featuring private terraces, hot tubs and four-poster beds for the ultimate Provençal retreat. coquillade.fr

Villa Miraé, Antibes

Tucked along the Chemin de la Garoupe on the pine-shaded peninsula of Cap d’Antibes, this intimate Relais & Châteaux retreat has a rare and genuine warmth. The staff radiate joy in a way that feels wholly authentic, creating an atmosphere that is as convivial as it is serene. Rooms are plush and considered: deep beds dressed in fine linen, beautifully appointed bathrooms and art curated to reflect each room’s position within the grounds – with the garden rooms featuring sculptural ceramics and botanical artworks inspired by the surrounding landscape. Both restaurants are led by three-Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco. By day Miraé unfolds across a sun-drenched terrace made for long lunches, including artichoke salad topped with bottarga and Piedmont hazelnuts, tortellini with borage leaf oil and local goat’s cheese, and strawberries served with greek yogurt cream. It’s produceled Mediterranean cooking that feels both effortless and assured. Come evening, Amarines takes on a more elevated rhythm, with a seasonal tasting menu rooted in the surrounding terroir – Mediterranean fish crudo with pistachio pesto and citrus broth, gnocchi, gamberoni with bisque and spring vegetables, Alpilles lamb with artichoke barigoule, before ending with wildflower honey ice cream, mead jelly and fresh pollen. For those seeking stillness within easy reach of Antibes’ old town and the Côte d’Azur’s wider pleasures, this is the place. villamirae-capantibes.com

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ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Cook like a local

SOUTH AFRICA Discover the flavours, stories and traditions that make South Africa’s cuisine so uniquely diverse Words and recipes NOKX MAJOZI Photographs YUKI SUGIURA

was born in the north of KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) in the coastal township of eSikhawini, near Richards Bay, and grew up in Dlangezwa, a vibrant township near the University of Zululand. Richards Bay is known for its dynamic community and rich cultural heritage. We were a typical, unapologetic and proud Zulu family where we talked loud, cracked wise and cooked large. We ate copious amounts of grains, a lot of maize in all its forms and vegetables my grandmother grew organically on her farm, so fresh produce was never in short supply. It was a simple, pleasant upbringing with a family that loved to cook and eat. What, then, do South Africans typically eat? South African cuisine is made up of diverse cultures and culinary traditions. Influenced by indigenous practices as well as European, Indian and Malay cuisines, our food offers a wide-ranging array of flavours and colourful experiences. Nothing symbolises this quite so beautifully as the seven colours meal, a cacophony of colour including roasted

pumpkin, creamy greens, fried chicken, beef stew, pickled beets, yellow rice, potato salad and ushatini - a cultural touchstone which represents togetherness, family and a celebration of heritage. Each version tells a story of the people of that region and individual family traditions. Are you eating pap, rice or samp? If you’re in the Eastern Cape you’re probably going to opt for samp and beans, in Limpopo it’s pap, no conversation necessary. If, like me, you grew up in eThekwini, then there would always be Indian-inspired, spice-forward elements on your plate, like a pilau or a curry. These days I continue the tradition on Sundays in my London home, with new inspiration from the British Sunday roast. No matter what part of the world I visit I’m always excited to return to the bustling sounds, smells and tastes of home. My trips to South Africa invariably include inviting friends around for a braai, scouting out new restaurants and street food stalls, and travelling to new cities and provinces. I want to encourage everyone to explore South African food.

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Egg chakalaka with crushed avocado I’m quite obsessed with chakalaka! In my opinion it’s one of South Africa’s finest culinary inventions. Avocados always remind me of home and I like to include them in as many meals as I can. My family is just as crazy about avocados as I am and their butteriness pairs perfectly with the spicy chakalaka. There is a seed bread from our local bakery that I absolutely love and I slice it thickly for this breakfast. I’ll eat this meal any time of day if I’m being honest. You’ll only need half the chakalaka amount in this recipe but use the rest on toast, baked potatoes or with chicken or fish. It will keep in the fridge for five days.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 35 MINS | EASY 4 eggs 2 avocados 4 thick slices of seeded bread, toasted 20ml olive oil small bunch of chives, chopped, to serve CHAKALAKA 3 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped 8cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tbsp curry powder ½ hispi cabbage, finely sliced 1 yellow pepper, deseeded and diced 1 red pepper, deseeded and diced 4 large carrots, peeled and grated 5 tomatoes, finely chopped 400g tin of baked beans To make the chakalaka, put the oil in a large lidded pan over a medium heat. Cook the onion for 6-8 mins, stirring regularly, until soft and translucent. Add the ginger and garlic, and cook for 2-3 mins to soften, then add the curry powder and cook for 1 min until fragrant. Add the cabbage, peppers, carrots and tomatoes, and cook for 6-8 mins, stirring regularly to ensure nothing sticks.

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Add the baked beans, cover with the lid and cook for 10 mins. Season to taste. Half fill a small pan with water and bring to the boil over a medium-high heat. Add the eggs, reduce the heat to medium and cook for 6 mins for soft-boiled eggs. Put some ice and cold water in a bowl. When the eggs are cooked, use a slotted spoon to transfer them from the pan straight into the cold water to stop the cooking. The eggs can remain in the water while you prepare the avocado. Using a fork, crush the avocado until nicely chunky, then season with salt and pepper to taste. In a small pan over a medium heat, gently reheat half the chakalaka (chill the rest for later). Drizzle oil on one side of each piece of toast and top with the crushed avocados. Peel the eggs, cut them in half and place two halves on each avocado toast. Spoon half of the chakalaka on top of the eggs and sprinkle over the chopped chives to serve.

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SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS | COOK 1 HR 5 MINS | EASY 1 large unsliced sandwich loaf or 4 bread rolls PICKLED CARROT SALAD 2 carrots, grated 1 small onion, finely sliced 1 tbsp distilled malt vinegar USHATINI 4 large tomatoes, finely chopped 1 red onion, finely chopped 1 green chilli, finely chopped small bunch of coriander, finely chopped (optional) 2 tbsp white vinegar or lemon juice LAMB CURRY 4 tbsp vegetable oil 2 cinnamon sticks 1½ tsp fennel seeds 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 tbsp garlic and ginger paste or 6 garlic cloves, finely minced, and 6cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated 2 tbsp tomato purée 4 tbsp masala curry powder 2 tbsp paprika 1 tbsp ground turmeric 2 tbsp garam masala 1kg boneless lamb shoulder, cut into medium pieces 400g tin of chopped tomatoes 2 large potatoes, peeled and quartered (optional) 1 tsp sugar, to taste small bunch of coriander, to garnish To make the curry, heat the oil in a large pan over a high heat. Once hot, add the cinnamon sticks and fennel seeds, and fry for 2 mins until fragrant but be careful not to burn the seeds. Add the onion and cook for 6-8 mins, stirring regularly, until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and ginger, tomato purée and the remaining spices and cook, stirring, for 2-4 mins.

Durban lamb bunny chow People often want to know what sets Durban curry apart from other South African curries. Durban curry tends to have a robust flavour that comes from its distinctive Indian-influenced spice mixture. Bunny chow originated as a means of transporting lunch to work, inspired by the Indian community. Bread was the perfect edible container and, over the years, it transitioned from a practical way to carry lunch to one of Durban’s most iconic and popular street foods. My friends and I would often drive to our favourite vendor and share one, using the car bonnet as our table. Despite its humble origins it is now a brilliantly fun eating experience. You’ll only need half the quantity of curry for this but the rest can be chilled or frozen for another time.

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Add the lamb and stir to mix with the spice paste. Add the tinned tomatoes, then fill the tin with water and add that to the pan as well. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat, cover with the lid and simmer for 40-45 mins, stirring from time to time. After 45 mins, add the potatoes, if using, and cook for a further 15-20 mins, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are cooked, the meat is tender and the sauce is thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and add sugar to taste to balance any acidity. Sprinkle with the coriander. You’ll need half of this to make the bunny chow so chill or freeze the rest. To make the ushatini, mix together the tomatoes, onion, chilli and coriander, if using. When ready to serve, add the vinegar and season to taste with salt. To make the pickled carrot salad, mix together all the ingredients in a small bowl and season to taste. To assemble, cut the loaf into four very thick slices. If you are using bread rolls, cut off the tops. Pull out the soft inner bread, keeping the crusts intact, and set to one side. Put the crusts on individual plates, then spoon a portion of curry into the hollow. Top with the scooped-out bread, then serve with the carrot salad and ushatini on the side for people to help themselves.

Peppermint Crisp tart The Peppermint Crisp tart is one of my all-time favourite South African desserts. It’s so easy to make and it’s always a hit. The layers of biscuits, caramel and whipped cream come together in perfect harmony, and then there’s that signature minty crunch from the grated Peppermint Crisp chocolate. This no-bake dessert is light, refreshing and oh-so delicious. It’s a classic in my house and I’m sure it will become a regular in yours too. SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS CHILLING | EASY 575ml whipping cream 397g tin of caramel 4 Peppermint Crisp chocolate bars or Aero Peppermint bars pack of Tennis biscuits or any coconut-flavoured biscuits In a mixing bowl using a hand whisk or electric whisk, whip 450ml of the cream until it forms firm peaks – be careful not to overwhip or the cream will separate. Fold through the caramel until evenly mixed. Chop the chocolate bars into shards. Lightly crush the biscuits by putting them in a freezer bag and bashing them with a rolling pin. In individual champagne or dessert glasses, divide half of the caramel cream between the glasses. Divide the crushed biscuits between the glasses. Sprinkle half of the chocolate over the biscuits. Add another layer of caramel cream, smoothing the tops with a spatula.

Recipes extracted from The South African Cook Book by Nokx Majozi (£26, Bloomsbury Publishing). Photographs © Yuki Sugiura. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

Cover the glasses and put in the fridge for at least 1 hr 30 mins or up to 4 hrs. Meanwhile whip the remaining 125ml of cream. Remove the glasses from the fridge then top each dessert with a dollop of the cream and scatter over the remaining chocolate shards before serving.

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Dorset

SPOTLIGHT ON

With seafood landed daily and a rolling countryside providing a bounty of top-quality produce, this stunning south coast county is packed with unmissable food moments

PHOTOGRAPHS: THOMAS FAULL/E+/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

Words EMILY LUXTON

Emily Luxton is a travel writer, blogger and founder of the Dorset Travel Guide. Her work has appeared in The Telegraph, The Sun and Lonely Planet. She’s spent a lifetime exploring Dorset and writing about its landscapes and hidden corners. emilyluxton.co.uk; dorsettravelguide.com

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PARNHAM RESTAURANT, BEAMINSTER Few meals come more rooted in their surroundings than at Parnham, a beautiful space in the walled garden of the Parnham Park estate, where ingredients are often picked moments before they hit the plate. The menu shifts constantly with the seasons but it’s always full of creative surprises: highlights might include a magnolia petal salad and rhubarb tiramisu. For the best views sit in the plant-filled conservatory overlooking the garden, or outside on sunny days. parnhampark.co.uk

THE THREE WISHES, SHERBORNE This friendly family-run bistro is just around the corner from Sherborne’s 8th-century abbey so it’s ideally located for lunch while you sightsee. On sunny days the leafy garden out back is the perfect spot for a relaxed meal or cream tea. Although breakfast stops at midday, the lunch menu keeps a brunchy feel with dishes like shakshouka and an excellent eggs benedict. thethreewishes.co.uk

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PHOTOGRAPHS: IMOGEN XIANA PHOTOGRAPHY, AGGIE BEA

For the best vews sit in the plant-filled conservatory overlooking the garden

SHELL BAY RESTAURANT & BISTRO, STUDLAND Poised at the very tip of Studland and surrounded by sand dunes, Shell Bay enjoys spectacular views across Poole Harbour and a remote, castaway feel. Local fish and seafood headline the concise but exciting menu – don’t miss the Poole Bay oysters. The speciality here is open-fire cooking, with fish or meat grilled over the flames for subtle smokiness and perfectly crispy skin. shellbay.net

Sitting just on the Somerset border in sleepy Milborne Port, Clockspire is housed in a bautifully restored 19th-century school building

CLOCKSPIRE, SHERBORNE Sitting just on the Somerset border in sleepy Milborne Port, Clockspire is housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century school building. It’s a church-like space with soaring ceilings, exposed rafters and dramatic chandeliers. Head chef Luke Bryant, who trained under Michael Caines, channels fine-dining precision into seasonal dishes built around the best West Country produce. Each plate is a mini work of art with dishes such as white crab tart with pickled kohlrabi and perfectly cooked lamb loin served with paper-thin courgette ribbons and tomato jam. theclockspire.com

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Lyme Regis FOODIE TOWN SPOTLIGHT

THE CLUB HOUSE, WEST BEXINGTON Hidden away down a long country track in the coastal village of West Bexington, The Club House sits in a prime position overlooking a wild patch of Chesil Beach. Enjoy widescreen sea views from the large windows or, in warmer months, the sprawling garden. Local boy Will Hickton’s menu is modern, inventive and makes full use of Dorset’s finest produce: highlights include samphire bhajis, loaded crab nachos and fresh scallops served in a parmesan crumb. theclubhousewestbexington.co.uk

Famous as the birthplace of Mary Anning and for Jurassic Coast fossils, West Dorset’s prettiest seaside town has a big food scene. Start with coffee and fresh-baked pastries at the Town Mill Bakery, and be sure to try its signature sourdough. Wander along to Broad Street to browse the town’s quirky indie shops: don’t miss The Old Forge Fossil Shop and Ammonite Fine Foods. Grab a takeaway bao bun or salad bowl for lunch from Red Panda, where Devon and Dorset produce meet big Asian flavours. Follow it with a couple of scoops from Baboo Gelato, made locally in nearby Bridport.

Enjoy widescreen sea views from the large windows or, in warmer months, the sprawling garden THE SALT PIG TOO, SWANAGE Sister to James Warren’s excellent Salt Pig farm shop in Wareham, Salt Pig Too blends a deli and butchery with a popular café. The Swanage branch is rustic, welcoming and crowded with local art. Visit by day for hearty sandwiches and vibrant salad bowls, while evening meals feature meat, fish and vegetarian dishes flame-cooked in the charcoal oven. thesaltpig.co.uk

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Stroll along the beach to The Cobb, Lyme Regis’s iconic stone harbour wall. The Wet Fish Shop sells fresh, sustainably caught fish and shellfish, including ready to eat pots for a beachside picnic. In an unbeatable setting overlooking the harbour, Rockfish is the best spot in town for fish and chips, all landed daily along the coast at Brixham Fish Market. For after-dinner drinks, try craft beers at the Lyme Regis Brewery taproom, or head to the downstairs bar in The Lyme Bay for cosy vibes and great cocktails.

CATCH AT THE OLD FISH MARKET, WEYMOUTH You can’t talk about Dorset seafood without mentioning Catch, an intimate restaurant tucked above the Old Fish Market on Weymouth’s harbourside. Fish and shellfish are so local that the fishers and boats that landed them are named on the menus, which are built around the day’s catch and change constantly. Chef-patron Ben Champkin’s innovative tasting menus showcase the very best local produce, balanced with delicate flavours that let the quality of the ingredients sing. Recent stand-outs included misoglazed octopus skewers, crab served with a lightly salty dulse seaweed tea, and buttery soft scallop carpaccio offset by tart pickled rhubarb. catchattheoldfishmarket.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: IN THE BAG PR, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, ANDY REDGATE

Fish and shellfish are so local that the fishers and boats are named on the menus

TOM’S, LYME REGIS Tom’s is a relaxed, quietly stylish spot on Lyme’s seafront with dazzling views of the wide bay. It’s the kind of place that works for anything from a beachside breakfast to an intimate evening meal. Chef-patron Tom Robinson works closely with local fishers and suppliers to create contemporary seasonal dishes that feel unfussily luxurious. Tom’s Fish Board is the undeniable star of the show, piled high with exquisitely prepared Dorset blue lobster, Portland Pearl rock oysters, hand-dived Lyme Bay scallops in roe butter, and more. tomslymeregis.com

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HIVE BEACH CAFÉ, BURTON BRADSTOCK Set right on the shingle at Burton Bradstock, Hive Beach Café perfectly nails the relaxed luxury vibe: wooden decking, unfussy service and simply excellent seafood. You can park nearby but it’s much more rewarding to walk the coast path. Cogden, a mile or so away, is an easy starting point. Seafood is the star of the show: expect West Country mussels, crab salad and seafood sharing platters piled almost alarmingly high with whatever’s freshest – all served with the breaking waves as your soundtrack. hivebeachcafe.co.uk

Set right on the shingle at Burton Bradtock, Hive Beach Café perfectly nails the relaxed luxury vibe PLATFORM, WEST BAY The award for Dorset’s most unique restaurant may have to go to Platform, housed in two historic train carriages and a Victorian station house. Each carriage has its own personality: one has wood panelling and vintage mirrors, the other tropical wallpaper and plush blue leather. Menus are rooted in local produce with dishes like stuffed Dartmoor lamb and seafood penang curry, while the colourful afternoon teas lean into the theatrical setting. platformrestaurant.co.uk

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CRAB HOUSE CAFÉ, WEYMOUTH Crab and shellfish dominate the menu at this decidedly shabby chic waterside spot next to Chesil Beach. It hardly comes fresher: crab and lobster are caught just off the Isle of Portland, visible from the restaurant’s windows, while the oyster beds are literally a few feet from the front door. They’re on the table within moments of leaving the water. crabhousecafe.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS: MATT AUSTIN

Oyster bed are a few feet from the front dor – they’re on the table within moments o leaving the water THE ACORN INN, EVERSHOT Run by husband and wife team Natalie and Richard Legg, the 16th-century Acorn Inn is every bit the classic country pub. Its claim to fame is a mention in Thomas Hardy’s Tess of the d’Urbervilles, and the ivy-clad stone walls, leather armchairs and roaring log fires feel little changed from that era. What has changed is the food: a polished twist on classic pub dishes. The signature ploughman’s comes with excellent local cheese and bread from Evershot’s village bakery. acorn-inn.co.uk

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Lean into

SHOULDER SEASON SE SON

ATLAS MOUNTAINS, MOROCCO

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Why autumn is the best time to visit these classic summer destinations Words HEATHER STEELE

PHOTOGRAPHS: FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, JULIAN KAESLER, SANTIAGO URQUIJO, FRANCESCO RICCARDO IACOMINO/MOMENT/GETTY

The Atlas Mountains are arguably at their best in autumn, when the intense heat of the Moroccan summer begins to ease and the landscape takes on a softer character. The mountains are a dramatic counterpoint to the country’s colourful cities and surfing hotspot coastline. Stretching for more than 1,500 miles across North Africa, the range spans rugged peaks, traditional Berber villages and some of Morocco’s most spectacular landscapes. The most visited region of the mountains is the High Atlas, where winding roads climb through valleys dotted with walnut groves, terraced fields and adobe villages. Here travellers can hike between remote communities and explore trails that range from gentle walks to challenging treks – Jebel Toubkal is North Africa’s highest peak. Days can be spent horse riding, shopping at local markets or simply enjoying the slower pace of mountain life, while evenings revolve around traditional Moroccan hospitality and long dinners beneath clear skies. Some of the best restaurants in the area can be found within souks and hotels – Kasbah Tamadot in Asni serves dinner beneath the stars, while The Capaldi in the foothills of the mountains offers Mediterranean dishes through a North African lens. Where to stay Olinto is a beautiful adults-only mountain retreat. Just an hour from Marrakech, the hotel offers nine plush pavilions (with either a private pool or botanical garden), each decorated in a way that honours Berber traditions. Book a cooking class to learn how to make Berber-style bread and prepare tagines. olinto.net

COMPORTA, PORTUGAL On Portugal’s Alentejo coast, under 90 minutes from Lisbon, Comporta makes the most of its good looks. Surrounded by wild dunes and fragrant pine forests, life here revolves around the sandy beaches – and so does much of its dining scene, even in the off season. On Praia da Comporta, locals gather at Comporta Café, a year-round beach club serving Mediterranean classics, day-boat seafood, cocktails and wine. Nearby Ilha do Arroz is known for long, leisurely lunches of local cheese platters and grilled octopus on its pretty deck. Further south, Praia do Carvalhal is home to Sal, a lively beach restaurant specialising in seafood and margaritas (we also rate its burger and sangria shack in the centre of Carvalhal), while O Diniz is a fun terrace to dine on after dark. Away from the beach, Cavalariça is a striking restaurant in former stables, where the kitchen turns out picture-perfect seasonal Portuguese cooking built around local produce – think cured wild prawns with seaweed consommé or grouper with cockles, baby squid and yellow chilli ice cream. For beach days, Pêgo, Carvalhal and Tróia Galé are among the most popular stretches, while Robinson and Brejos are quieter alternatives. Shoreline horse riding can be arranged through Passeios a Cavalo and Cavalos na Areia. Surfing and paddleboarding are popular too, with lessons and equipment hire still widely available into October. The Sado Estuary Nature Reserve is a great place to spot flamingos and other birdlife among the sandbanks and wetlands, while boat trips offer the chance to spot dolphins. One of the best ways to explore the area is by e-bike, with routes winding through rice fields, pine forests and along the coasts of Pêgo and Carvalhal. Nearby Melides is also worth a detour, thanks to its wild beach, lagoon and growing collection of art galleries. Where to stay Quinta da Comporta sits in a classic Portuguese farmhouse with its own spa, 40m infinity pool and organic restaurant (quintadacomporta.com). Down the coast in Melides, you’ll find Vermelho, the shoe designer Christian Loubotin’s immaculately designed 13-bedroom guesthouse (vermelhohotel.com).

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PUGLIA, ITALY

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, OLEH_SLOBODENIUK/E+, GARY YEOWELL/DIGITALVISION/GETTY, MATEH PALUH, JULIEN DUVAL

The heel of Italy’s boot, Puglia has become one of the country’s most sought after destinations thanks to its images of whitewashed towns and coastal olive groves. Stretching between the Adriatic and Ionian seas, the region offers a slower, more authentic alternative to better known hotspots, combining beautiful coastline with a rich cultural heritage. While much of Europe begins to cool down, Puglia often enjoys temperatures of up to 25C well into October. The sea remains warm enough for swimming but beaches, restaurants and historic towns feel pleasantly quieter than the peak of summer. Puglia’s appeal lies in its variety. Visitors can wander the trulli-lined streets of Alberobello, explore the baroque architecture of Lecce (try Baldo Gelato while you’re there) or spend days hopping between the secluded coves along the coast. The pretty town of Polignano a Mare is famous for its ceramics emporium, La Contessa Ceramiche Pugliesi. And if you find yourself in Puglia on the second Sunday of the month, head to Ostuni for its famous all-day antiques market. Every Italian region claims it but food really is central to life in Puglia. The region is renowned for its simple ingredient-led cuisine, with seafood, burrata and handmade orecchiette featuring heavily on menus. For a true experience of the latter, head to ‘strada delle orecchiette’ in old-town Bari. In this stretch of the city you’ll find Apulian women making exquisite orecchiette outside their homes, strictly by hand. In the autumn months, menus reflect the season, with mushrooms, figs, almonds, freshly pressed olive oil and local wines taking centre stage. Some of our favourite places to try all these are Ristorante Vecchio Forno in Barletta and Osteria Vini e Cucina in Bari – plus Peppe Zullo in Orsara di Puglia. Where to stay Palazzo Daniele in the village of Salento is an old palace that has been refurbished in a monastic style that lets the original colourful frescoed ceilings shine. There’s also a beautiful pool, 15 suites, a spa and a restaurant. palazzodaniele.com

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ISTRIA, CROATIA On a heart-shaped peninsula in the northern Adriatic, Istria is often described as Croatia’s answer to Tuscany thanks to its prized truffles and wines. Also referred to as terra magica – the magic land – Istria has long hooked visitors with its blend of countryside, historic towns and coastline. A crossroads for successive rulers and empires, it’s rich in history and culture. Explore the remarkably preserved Pula Arena, one of the world’s largest Roman amphitheatres, or discover the legends and panoramic views of the hilltop towns of Grožnjan and Motovun. Any trip here must include a stopover in colourful Venetian-influenced Rovinj. This pretty fishing town on the west coast has bags of character, atmospheric little restaurants with sea views and waters that are warm enough to swim in during early autumn. Food is one of the region’s greatest draws – and autumn is an especially rewarding time to visit as the grape harvest is underway and truffle season begins. Family-run wineries and olive groves offer a taste of its agricultural heritage. Some of the best wine comes from Kozlovic, near the border of Slovenia. The winery, which has been in production since 1904, hosts daily tours and tastings. Kobola is another popular vineyard that offers tastings – you’ll be able to try its different olive oils too. On the truffle-hunting front, look to Experience Istria, which can help organise everything from truffle hunting with dogs in the Motovun Forest to authentic truffle-tasting menus in local konobas (taverns). Where to stay Both Meneghetti and San Canzian offer wine-focused stays in Istria. The former traces its origins to a 19th-century agricultural estate. It was rediscovered in the early 2000s and thoughtfully restored, turning it into a refined wine retreat (meneghetti.hr). San Canzian is in the medieval village of Mužolini Donji and sits on the site of an ancient fortress. This year, it’s added 34 villas to the property (san-canzian.com).

For our full list of autumn breaks to book now, head to olivemagazine.com. 119

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HIGHLIGHTS AND INCLUSIONS • Seven nights’ bed and breakfast accommodation at the four-star Pousada de Queluz, Lisbon (3 nights), the four-star Pousada de Viseu (2) and the four-star Pousada Mosteiro de Amares (2) • Four evening meals • Stay in three of Portugal’s famous Pousada hotels • Discover the historic Portuguese capital of Lisbon • Visit the incredible UNESCO-listed Royal Sintra • Venture out to Cabo da Roca, Europe’s westernmost point • Tour of Lisbon • Wine tasting at a local quinta • Tour of Cascais, Estoril and Sintra • Tour of Porto • Tour of Régua and Guimaraes • Return flights to Lisbon (returning from Porto) • Coach travel and transfers throughout • Fully escorted by a friendly, experienced Premier Collection tour manager • All mandatory local taxes and charges

HIGHLIGHTS AND INCLUSIONS • Seven nights’ four- or five-star bed and breakfast accommodation in Málaga (1 night), Seville (2), Córdoba (2) and Granada (2) • Seven breakfasts • Tour of Ronda • Enjoy a more intimate and smaller group experience of 16-24 travellers • Stop off in the beautiful city of Priego de Córdoba, known as the Baroque Jewel of Andalucía • Tour hilltop Granada and the major landmarks of its historic Moorish old city • Tour of Seville with entrance to the Royal Alcázar of Seville • Tour of Córdoba with entrance to the Mezquita-Cathedral of Córdoba and Córdoba Synagogue • Tour of the Alhambra in Granada • Return flights to Málaga • Comfortable air-conditioned coach travel and transfers throughout • Fully escorted by a friendly, experienced Premier Collection tour manager • All mandatory local taxes and charges

To book or request a brochure, please call 0303 330 0950 and quote ‘olive’ or visit newmarketholidays.co.uk/OLV TERMS AND CONDITIONS These holidays are organised and operated by Newmarket Holidays Ltd. ABTOT 5509. ATOL protected 2325. ABTA V7812. Standard phone charges apply. Prices correct at time of going to press. Single supplements apply. Newmarket Holidays reserves the right to cancel, change or amend any tour.

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{MY NEIGHBOURHOOD}

Alexina Anatole’s

HERNE HILL favourites

rom Paris-style croissants and classic fish and chips on Half Moon Lane, to the eponymous Sunday market and authentic Caribbean fish dishes, there’s a wealth of good food to sample in Herne Hill, south London. olive talent resident and local insider Alexina Anatole shares the spots you need to know about.

HERNE HILL MARKET Sunday is market day, when 50-odd producers set up outside the station. The food is excellent but the real gems are in the vintage stalls, which offer Berber rugs, homewares and the occasional designer find. My bright red Le Creuset? Picked up here for a steal. With Brockwell Park and the lido nearby, you can make a whole morning of it. @hernehillmarket CHRISTOPHER’S BAKERY Christopher’s, tucked away on Half Moon Lane, makes some of the best bread in the city without any fanfare. The croissants are comparable to those in Paris, the sourdough is great and they make breads I’ve never come across before – scotch mist rolls are a new favourite. christophers-bakery.com SESSA Opened in 2025, Sessa feels like it’s been here a decade – and I mean that as a compliment. It’s chic and cool but warm and lived-in in a way that new restaurants rarely are. The food is excellent any time of day but go for aperitivo hour: £7 house martinis, garibaldis as good as Dante NYC and the greatest bar snack I’ve ever eaten, smoked haddock croquettes. sessa.london LLEWELYN’S In summer, when the courtyard opens, there are few better spots for a long lunch in London. Seasonal plates, a well-chosen list of classic and natural wines, and a beautiful room to retreat to when the weather disappoints make this a reliable favourite. llewelyns-restaurant.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEXINA ANATOLE

JARR MARKET My pantry would be duller without this zero-waste spot. It’s the narrowest shop you’ve ever seen but very Mary Poppins-esque. Grains, spices, oils, cleaning stuff – they have it all. You can even press your own peanut butter and get fresh oat milk on tap. Buy what you need – the satisfaction of a shop without a recycling bin full of packaging is the cherry on top. jarrmarket.co.uk

MINUS 12° A jewel box of a place with a tight menu of 10 flavours – the Jersey milk and dark chocolate sorbets never disappoint, and the rotating specials always excite (think coffee speculoos, mandarin cheesecake, chocolate smoked salt). Owner Gavin studied ice cream obsessively in Italy and it shows. minus12.co.uk WILD + LEES Owner Liam left a media job to open his dream bottle shop, which is one of the most inviting wine spots in London. Elevated and hugely accessible in equal measure – whether you’re looking for a midweek sip or bottle to celebrate, you’ll find it here. It’s my pre-dinner stop for a low-intervention wine that’s interesting without being hard work, and you can even sit and enjoy a glass while you’re there. wildandlees.com CARNEGIE CAFÉ Inside the Grade II listed Edwardian library on the edge of Ruskin Park sits this gorgeous spot. Eclectic furniture and double-height ceilings make it feel more like your rich, eccentric aunt’s living room than a café. The coffee is strong and served in vintage cups, the avocado toast is excellent and it’s a true community hub – you’ll find a mixture of people working, mums with kids and students spilling over from the library. @carnegie.cafe LITTLE OCHI This is one of the few Caribbean spots in London that doesn’t focus on jerk and deeply savoury dishes but instead on fish and seafood. My go-to is the steamed fish, soup and festivals (sweetened fried dumplings) but the fish can also be fried, served in brown stew or as escoveitch. @littleochirestaurant KEN’S FISH BAR A family chippy on Half Moon Lane since 1984, set up by Ken and now run by his sons – good, proper fish and chips, cooked to order. The chips are hand-cut and both crisp and soggy in all the right places – they’re Jay Rayner’s favourite, too. @thankcodforkens

Alexina Anatole is a chef and food writer, and olive’s talent resident. She was born in Brighton, grew up in Paris and finally settled near Brixton after moving back to the UK – she describes herself as a south Londoner through and through. After leaving her job on the trading floor in the City of London, she became runner-up on MasterChef in 2021 and has since published two cookbooks, including her most recent, Sweet. Follow her on Instagram @alexinaanatole.

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CITY BREAK

MILAN

Insider Margaret Scott shares her favourite spots to eat and drink in Italy’s second city

ilan is one of the most misunderstood cities in Italy. People say to skip it, that it’s not beautiful or that one night is enough. I moved here a year and a half ago, and can’t get enough. It’s one of the best food cities in the world and, beyond the Duomo, there’s so much charm and an energy that defines Milan.

Clockwise from above: Milan’s Naviglio Grande canal; Scandi-inspired bakery Signor Lievito; NYC-style slices at Pizza Stella; classic Milanese café Pasticceria Cucchi; historic Trattoria Masuelli 122

SIGNOR LIEVITO

A bright Scandinavian-inspired bakery and my favourite place to start the day. It’s small and cosy with wooden tables and some of the best pastries in the city. Come for the cruffin or morning bun, stay for the relaxed vibe. Closed Sundays, so weekday mornings are best. @signor_lievito

BAR QUADRONNO

An absolute Milan staple that feels frozen in time. This charming, slightly chaotic panini spot showcases the city’s signature sandwich, soft yet crisp bread filled with fresh ingredients. My go-to is the Mimi with stracciatella, artichokes and prosciutto. Always buzzing, always worth it. barquadronno.it

TRIPPA MILANO

If you can secure a reservation this is one of the best date night spots in the city. A true Milan institution known for bold nose-to-tail cooking. The parmesan tagliatelle is unforgettable, dare I say life-changing. The space is relaxed, the staff welcoming and the focus is simply on exceptional food. trippamilano.it

BAR PARADISO

In a city full of great wine bars this is the one I return to most. A red awning, small tables spilling onto the street and a lively, stylish crowd every night of the week. The wine list is excellent and the small plates are just as good. @barparadisomilano

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, HELENIO BARBETTA

PANIFICIO DAVIDE LONGONI

One of Milan’s most respected bakeries, with several locations across the city. The Via Gerolamo Tiraboschi shop is a favourite for locals picking up bread or stopping for lunch. The panini are standout and everything revolves around exceptional baking. A perfect casual stop at any time of day. @panificiodavidelongoni

PIZZA STELLA

A fresh take on casual dining, inspired by New York style pizza by the slice. The ingredients are excellent and the space is

effortlessly cool. Ideal for a quick dinner or late-night bite. The spicy pepperoni with hot honey is a must, along with whatever the daily special is. @pizzastellamilano

PASTICCERIA CUCCHI

A quintessential Milanese café that works at any time of day. Elegant, timeless and always lively, it’s perfect for coffee, a pastry or an afternoon drink. Come for a cappuccino or stay for a negroni sbagliato. Tucked away and ideal for people watching. pasticceriacucchi.it

GIACOMO BISTROT

Giacomo Bistrot is my go-to for a special occasion. Classic, cosy and slightly glamorous, it captures old-world Milan perfectly. The menu balances traditional dishes with a strong wine focus. Don’t miss the agnolotti del plin or the veal cotoletta. A place to dress up and settle in for the evening. giacomomilano.com

BENTOTECA MILANO

This is a sleek, contemporary restaurant blending Japanese and Mediterranean influences. The menu is built around sharing plates, with the option of an omakase-style experience. It’s a fun, energetic spot for a night out with plenty of bars nearby for drinks before or after. bentoteca.com

TRATTORIA MASUELLI

A historic restaurant dating back to 1921, still run by the Masuelli family. Old-school and full of charm, it’s slightly off the beaten path but worth the journey. Come for classic Milanese dishes like ossobuco, risotto and veal cotoletta. This is where I take family and friends when they come to visit. @trattoriamasuelli

SAN MILANO

There’s no shortage of hip cocktail bars in Milan but San feels like the coolest kid on the block. The city has fully embraced the listening bar trend and, paired with an exceptional cocktail list that makes the classics feel new again, it’s the perfect place to start or end the night. @san.milano

Margaret Scott is a travel writer, content creator and travel advisor specialising in food, wine and boutique hotels. Originally from the United States, she moved to Milan in 2024 and shares her recommendations and travels through her platform @MargaretsPassport.

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EASY SEASONAL NOURISHMENT

Soak up the sunshine with these healthy summer recipes Recipes KATY GREENWOOD Photographs ANDREW BURTON

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Dakos-style salad, p126

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Dakos-style salad

Courgette orzo

Inspired by the traditional Cretan salad, this dish makes the most of gorgeous summer tomatoes.

This easy risotto alternative brings together two summer veg favourites – courgettes and broad beans.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY

250g wholemeal or brown sourdough, torn into large chunks 700g mixed tomatoes (we used yellow, cherry and larger vine-ripened tomatoes), halved, quartered or roughly chopped, depending on the size 100g pitted kalamata olives 3 tbsp capers, drained handful of oregano leaves 200g feta DRESSING 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1/2 tsp dried oregano

3 courgettes 11/2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 300g orzo 1 litre vegetable stock 4 tbsp finely grated parmesan, plus extra to serve 200g baby broad beans, podded large handful each of mint and basil leaves, shredded 1 lemon, zested and juiced

Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Spread the bread chunks over a large baking tray and bake for 12-15 mins until crisp but not coloured. Leave to cool. To make the dressing, whisk together the ingredients in a large serving bowl and season to taste. Put the tomatoes, olives, capers, half the oregano and bread chunks into the bowl, and toss together with the dressing. Crumble over the feta (or break into four equal chunks) and scatter over the remaining oregano leaves before serving. PER SERVING 410 kcals • fat 23G • saturates 9G carbs 32G • sugars 6G • fibre 5G • protein 16G • salt 3G

Slice one of the courgettes into thin rounds. Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a lidded frying pan over a medium heat and fry the sliced courgettes, tossing occasionally, to soften and lightly brown. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon. Add the onion with 1/2 tbsp of oil. Turn down the heat slightly and cook for 5 mins to soften. Coarsely grate the remaining two courgettes and add to the pan with the garlic, turn the heat up a little and cook for 5 mins until the courgette is just starting to soften. Stir in the orzo, then pour in the stock. Bring to the boil, turn down to a simmer and cook for 10 mins, stirring occasionally, until the orzo is almost done. Add the parmesan, beans and courgette slices, season, put on the lid and turn down the heat. Cook for 5 mins, then stir in most of the herbs, the lemon zest and juice, and divide between four plates. Grate over a little extra parmesan and top with the remaining herbs.

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: KATY GREENWOOD

PER SERVING 469 kcals • fat 11G • saturates 4G carbs 66G • sugars 7G • fibre 11G • protein 21G • salt 1G

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Peach melba muffins Make up a batch of these simple muffins for a great grab and go breakfast or a fruity treat later in the day. If you don’t need the muffins to be vegan, use any other raspberry or red berry flavoured yogurt. Keep in the fridge once cooled. MAKES 12 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY 2 peaches 300g spelt wholemeal flour 1 tbsp baking powder 100g soft dark brown sugar 60g jumbo rolled oats, plus 1 tbsp to sprinkle 4 small ripe bananas (300g peeled weight) 125ml vegetable oil 200g pot of vegan berry-flavoured yogurt 150g raspberries Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and fill a 12-hole muffin tin with paper cases. Stone the peaches and cut one peach into 12 slices for the tops of the muffins, then dice the rest. Put the dry ingredients into a large mixing bowl and stir together well, breaking up any clumps of sugar. In a separate bowl, whizz the bananas to a thick purée with a stick blender and stir in the oil and yogurt. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry until almost combined, then add in the diced peach and all but 12 of the raspberries. Combine quickly, then divide between the muffin cases and top each with a slice of peach, a raspberry and a scattering of oats. Bake for 30 mins until risen and the fruit and oats are a little golden. Leave to cool for 5-10 mins before tucking in. PER SERVING 279 kcals • fat 12G • saturates 1G carbs 36G • sugars 15G • fibre 4G • protein 6G • salt 0.3G

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How to make that summer feeling last Find out why summer is so good for us and how to harness the health benefits year-round Words ROSALIND RYAN

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any years ago I lived in Australia – I needed to escape the British winters and the end of a relationship. I knew the country was famous for sunshine, surf and snags (slang for sausages, FYI) but I didn’t realise just how much the sunny weather was central to the Aussie way of life. Instead of leaving work and piling straight into the nearest pub, my colleagues would go for a run, hit the gym or catch some waves before meeting up to dissect the day over a drink. Making weekend plans was simple when you didn’t need a wet-weather alternative. And when it did rain you knew it wouldn’t last all week. It made me think: would Brits be fitter, healthier and happier if we had a bit more sunshine? The answer is obviously yes – park run numbers rise every spring, tennis courts in local parks are always packed in July and the explosion of outdoor cinemas that appear in summer is testament to our unwavering optimism.

HEALTH BENEFITS OF SUMMER

It’s so much easier to be healthier in warmer weather, when everything takes less effort. Going for a walk feels more achievable when you don’t have to wrap up warm or take waterproofs. And the longer days mean you have more time to indulge your hobbies or take your time over a lazy evening meal. But how exactly does summer improve our health? And can you keep those wellbeing benefits going in the colder months? It may be easier than you think.

supplements may also help but check with your GP. And adopt a more Scandinavian approach to winter – accept the fact it’s going to be dark and cold for a few months, and plan activities around that, rather than feeling like you just have to endure it.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

The health benefits of being in nature are well documented but did you know that spending time in blue spaces is just as important as getting your greens? Blue spaces are places near water – like rivers, lakes or the coast – and numerous studies have found being in blue spaces boosts our mental health and wellbeing. Some evidence shows it may be easier to exercise in blue spaces, which in turn makes you feel good, or it could be the negative ions. Positive ions are created by factors like stress or pollution but negative ions are created by running water, such as waves or waterfalls, and higher levels are linked to lower rates of depression.

MAKE IT LAST

If you’re not a fan of wild swimming, don’t worry – strolling by the seaside should still give you a lift. If you can, take your lunch break by a river to combine the best of blue and green spaces. Failing that, use a photo of a forest as your screensaver: green scenes can help you fight stress and feel more relaxed.

Sunlight increases serotonin, a moodboosting chemical in the brain

THE HAPPINESS EFFECT

Sunshine = feeling happy. Fact. A 2024 meta-analysis published in the Journal of Happiness Studies looking at exposure to sunlight and happiness levels concluded there was a “positive effect of light on wellbeing”, while the wonderfully named study, It’s Sunny – Be Happy!, found people who live in sunnier climates are also happier. Researchers say this could be because sunlight increases serotonin, a mood-boosting chemical in the brain, which then improves our happiness and sense of wellbeing. Or it could be because sunshine naturally boosts our vitamin D levels and low levels are linked to depression.

MAKE IT LAST

Try to get outside first thing during winter – research shows that early morning sunshine can have an antidepressant effect on the brain. Taking vitamin D

EAT THE SEASONS

In summer there’s more choice when it comes to healthy eating – all those fresh salads, sweet fruits, crunchy veggies and berries bursting with flavour. Eating lighter, healthier meals is associated with better mental health, and people eating more than three portions of fruit and veg per day are also said to be the happiest. Eating seasonal food is better for the environment too. For example, tomatoes grown in heated greenhouses in the UK have a higher carbon footprint than those grown outside in Spain in naturally warmer weather. So stick to seasonal produce to reap the benefits in more ways than one.

MAKE IT LAST

Stock the freezer with frozen veggies or berry mixtures to enjoy a taste of summer year-round. Frozen fruit and veg actually has about the same nutrient content as fresh, right after picking. Or you could cook a lasagne to share with friends – a Mediterranean diet is good for your heart and your happiness levels.

» READ ON 131

SUPERCHARGE YOUR SOCIAL LIFE

Spending more time with family and friends is natural at this time of year. BBQs, picnics and pub gardens become our favourite places on warm summer evenings, and being sociable is one of the best ways to improve your wellbeing: people with strong social networks also have greater life satisfaction and better health. The hot weather could also hook you up. Scientists say human relationships are positively affected by the weather, making us more open and receptive to new interactions. A 2012 study found women were more likely to give their phone number to a stranger on sunny days but the ethics of this study are an absolute minefield.

MAKE IT LAST

Strengthen connections with friends over winter with activities like weekly walks and pub quizzes, see your family outside special events and sign up for group activities like a running club or craft classes. Don’t leave your diary empty till Easter – book in social events so you always have something to look forward to.

FUN FITNESS ACTIVITIES

MAKE IT LAST

You can’t kayak in the local leisure centre pool but you can still go swimming. Other sports, like frisbee or tennis, can also be moved indoors over winter. But if you’re still looking for unusual activities, try something suited to the cold weather, such as hot yoga or an infrared pilates class.

A HOLIDAY HEALTH BONUS

Who doesn’t feel healthier and happier on holiday? Taking time out to relax in the sunshine is a wellbeing bonus. In fact our wellbeing tends to peak on the eighth day of our holiday, so – if you can – book at least 10 days off. Beware of trying to get everything done before you go though. Dutch researchers found our wellbeing drops the week before a holiday, thanks to rising workloads.

Scientists say human relationships are positively affected by the weather MAKE IT LAST

We can’t all escape for winter break but we can keep up the healthy habits we adopt on holiday for a wellbeing boost. More exercise – even gentle activities like walking – getting more sleep and eating less ultra-processed food can all help you to feel better year-round.

GOING BACK DOWN UNDER?

In Australia my boss asked if I wanted to stay permanently. And I seriously considered it – I loved the way of life, the weather and the Aussies’ can-do attitude. But I missed my friends and family, being able to travel to Europe so easily and (whisper it) wrapping up warm on frosty mornings. So I came back to the UK but I brought all the healthy habits I learned with me. Finding activities you love, spending time with loved ones and making more time for yourself is a lot easier in summer but you can do all those things at any time of year. And there’s always next summer to start planning. Rosalind Ryan is a journalist and editor specialising in health, lifestyle and environmental issues. She has nearly 20 years’ experience writing for publications including The Guardian, The Independent, Healthy and Women’s Health.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, COUNTER, DIGITALVISION/GETTY

Longer days and better weather make fitness feel like fun rather than something to tick off your to-do list. There’s also solid evidence to show our physical activity levels increase over the summer and decrease in winter. No wonder I lost a stone in Australia and developed a new passion for hiking (which ran out along with my visa). So embrace that sense of adventure and try some fun activities like stand-up paddleboarding, frisbee in the park with friends, or – for full back-to-school nostalgia – set up a rounders tournament. Just make sure the teams are picked fairly.

The

Nationís favourite peas Shop Birds Eye Peas in your local supermarket now

FIBRE FAVOURITES Plant count 12 Fibre count 13g

Ribbon carrot and quinoa salad, p136

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall picks out high-fibre ingredients to add to your cooking, followed by some vegbased lunches or light suppers to make the most of them Words and recipes HUGH FEARNLEY-WHITTINGSTALL 134

FRESH FRUIT

An apple, a pear, a banana, a handful of grapes, an orange, a kiwi fruit, some berries – all fruit provides fibre and the tang and texture of crunchy fruits like apples is a great addition to many salads. They’re very conveniently portable but, at the same time, cutting them up and serving them in bowls or plates makes them very easy to eat for kids.

DRIED FRUIT

Prunes, dried apricots, dried figs, raisins and other dried fruits are richer in fibre than many fresh fruits because they contain less water. They are incredibly useful as a natural sweetener in all kinds of recipes too. In a main meal context they are particularly handy for adding a touch of sweetness to spicy dishes like tagines and curries, and they can do the same in hearty salads.

FRESH RAW VEG

Cucumbers, carrots, peppers, cauliflower, celery, tomatoes all give you a fibre boost. As with fruit, some simple slicing and dicing can make them more appetising, and more portable. I often take a box of simply prepped crunchy veg with me when I travel.

WHOLE NUTS

Unsalted whole nuts, such as almonds, peanuts and hazelnuts, are great sources of fibre. The skins add more – along with flavonoids too. Raw nuts retain more natural goodness than those that are industrially roasted but toasting them in a pan or in the oven does deepen the flavour – great for scattering over salads. Raw nuts can be mixed with dried fruits, seeds and even dark chocolate for a fibre-boosting trail mix.

NUT BUTTER

A spoonful of nut butter is delicious with a sliced banana, wedges of apple or celery sticks, spread on wholegrain toast or oatcakes, or just eaten straight from the jar (guilty as charged). Nut butters are also very handy for enriching more substantial dishes.

WHOLE SEEDS

with berries and seeds. They give you slow-release energy and plenty of soluble fibre (although can result in a blood sugar spike for some). Oats can also be included in savoury dishes, for example as a topping on a gratin or even a comforting take on a risotto.

OATCAKES

These vary in texture from fine and delicate to coarse and crunchy but all are a good source of fibre. Some have added seeds. For years I’ve snacked on oatcakes: with cheese, of course, but also with nut butters, krauts and kimchis, fridge leftovers, as quick and easy lunches, or to plug a hunger gap when I am travelling.

WHOLEGRAIN BREADSTICKS

Crunch these solo or dip into hummus or any veg-rich dip to increase fibre.

HUMMUS

Whether made with chickpeas or other pulses, hummus is a good source of fibre.

OLIVES

They’re salty so don’t go mad but 10 olives will give you 1.5-3g fibre. Black olives are particularly good. Most olives are also a fermented live food and so are good for your gut. Added to soups, stews and salads they are brilliant little bombs of rich umami flavour.

VEGETABLE CRISPS

These are good as an occasional high-fibre treat but not something to eat every day because of their salt, sugar and fat content. Check packs before buying to make sure they are minimally processed – added ingredients need not go beyond oil and salt.

POPCORN

Corn kernels are a whole grain but branded bags of pre-popped corn usually have more salt, sugar and fat than is good for us. So it’s much better to pop the corn yourself at home. I like to toss it with dukkah – a combination of finely chopped toasted seeds and spices.

You’ll find seeds called for frequently in my recipes – often to finish them with a nice crunchy texture – but they’re a delicious snack on their own too. A mixture is even better than one single type and gently toasting them really enhances their flavour.

DARK CHOCOLATE

OATS

COFFEE

Oats are a very versatile and inexpensive high-fibre grain that come in various forms: rolled, flaked or chopped into oatmeal. We probably know them best as porridge, granola and overnight oats, where they are soaked in fruit juice and/or yogurt and often combined

Just 20g dark chocolate will typically give you around 2g fibre. Ideally choose one that’s at least 70% cocoa solids and not full of sugar. There are some great vegan dark chocolates to choose from now too.

This starts life as a berry and so contains 0.5-1g fibre per 100ml cup – a helpful source if you have even one cup a day. Coffee is also a source of the plant chemicals called polyphenols, which act as antioxidants.

» TURN OVER TO TRY SOME NOURISHING RECIPES

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Ribboned carrot and quinoa salad Quinoa is a grain (technically a seed) that offers complete protein – it has all the amino acids we need. Cook it and cool it ahead of time for this delicious and satisfying salad. Tahini makes for a lovely creamy dressing but if its distinctive taste is not your thing then use peanut butter or pesto instead – they also work well. SERVES 3 AS A LIGHT MEAL OR 4 AS PART OF A SHARING SPREAD PREP 15 MINS PLUS COOLING | COOK 20 MINS | EASY 150g quinoa 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder or ½ vegetable stock cube 1 small-medium red onion, thinly sliced 150g carrots, scrubbed or peeled 1 lemon, juiced 400g tin of lentils, drained, or 250g drained pre-cooked lentils or from a jar/pouch, rinsed and patted dry 35g raisins (optional) 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil TAHINI/PEANUT BUTTER DRESSING 2 tbsp tahini, smooth peanut butter or pesto 1 small garlic clove, grated pinch of dried chilli flakes ½ lemon, juiced ½ tsp soft brown sugar 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil TO FINISH few hazelnuts, ideally toasted, roughly chopped small handful of parsley or chives, chopped Cook the quinoa ahead of time: rinse it thoroughly in a sieve then tip it into a pan. Dissolve the bouillon in 500ml of boiling water and add to the pan. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 15-20 mins until all the water is absorbed, then take off the heat and leave the pan covered for 10 mins. Fluff up the quinoa with a fork, transfer to a bowl and leave to cool completely for 45-55 mins (refrigerate if cooking well ahead). Meanwhile, put the onion into a large bowl. Cut the carrots into ribbons using a veg peeler and add to the bowl. Squeeze over the lemon juice, add a good pinch of salt and mix well. In the meantime, make the dressing: in a small bowl mix the tahini with the garlic, chilli, lemon juice, sugar and some salt and pepper. Add the oil and stir in thoroughly. The dressing may seize or go grainy but don’t worry, just whisk in 1 tbsp water, and then another, and it will become smooth again. Taste to check the seasoning and adjust as necessary. Stir the lentils through the quinoa and toss in the raisins too, if using. Stir in the oil and season with salt and pepper. To serve, heap the lentil mixture onto a large serving plate or individual plates. Top with the carrot ribbons and onion, and trickle over the juice from the bowl. Spoon the tahini dressing generously over the salad and finish with chopped nuts and a scattering of parsley or chives.

• Try swapping the quinoa for cooked brown rice or barley.

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Leek and fennel bruschetta The alchemy that occurs as leek and fennel slowly cook down together is very special, making this a maximum bang for your buck quick snack meal. SERVES 2 AS A LIGHT MEAL OR 4 AS A SNACK OR PART OF A SHARING SPREAD | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY 300g leeks (trimmed weight) 1 large or 2 small fennel bulbs 2 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, 1 chopped, 1 halved (optional) 1 lemon, zested and juiced 2 large or 4 small slices of wholegrain sourdough TO FINISH extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp pumpkin seeds 12 olives, pitted and roughly chopped (optional) handful of parsley, chopped (optional) Clean the leeks and slice into roughly 5mm thick slices. Trim the fennel bulbs, saving any feathery fronds, then quarter and slice thinly. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the leeks and fennel, and season well with salt and pepper. When everything is sizzling nicely, turn down the heat a little and sweat gently for 10-15 mins, stirring regularly, until very tender and the leek has lost any squeakiness. Add the chopped garlic and lemon zest, and cook for a few more minutes. Meanwhile, toast the sourdough, then rub with the cut garlic clove, if using, and trickle with a little extra-virgin olive oil. Take the frying pan off the heat and add a good squeeze of lemon juice. Taste and add more salt and/or pepper if needed. Heap the leek and fennel mixture onto the toasted sourdough. Trickle over a little more extra-virgin olive oil and scatter with the pumpkin seeds, olives and parsley, if using, or all three chopped together and mixed with a little olive oil – as a kind of tapenade. Finish with any saved fennel fronds, torn into little sprigs.

• Replace the fennel with a handful of kale or spring greens – shred finely and add after the leeks have sweated for 5 mins. • For a protein boost, spread the toast with a nut or seed butter instead of oil. • As well as being a great toast topper, the finished leek and fennel mixture is also lovely tossed with pasta, especially if you add the seeds, parsley and olives. • Omni/vegetarian options: stir a spoonful of crème fraîche into the leek mixture and/or serve it scattered with shavings of parmesan (or veggie alternative).

Plant count 8 Fibre count 12g

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Pressed cabbage salad Pressed salads are popular in macrobiotic or raw food diets because the pressing softens the vegetable fibres and may also preserve enzymes. That may well be true. I just love these salads because they are deliciously tender and take on all the flavours of the dressing beautifully. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS 1 HR PRESSING | EASY 400g red or white cabbage (or a mixture), finely sliced 100g carrot, peeled or scrubbed, julienned or coarsely grated 1 small-medium apple, coarsely grated (skin and all) 4-6 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced 50g raisins 75g cashews DRESSING zest of 1 lime or lemon), zested and juiced 1-2cm piece of ginger, grated pinch of dried chilli flakes 2-3 tsp soy sauce or tamari 3 tbsp cold-pressed walnut or rapeseed oil TO FINISH handful of coriander leaves, chopped (optional) Put the cabbage, carrot, apple and spring onions in a large bowl, mix well and sprinkle with 1 tsp of fine salt. Toss and massage everything together for a minute or so to ensure the salt is well distributed. Pile the mixture into a colander or large sieve and put it back over the bowl. Put another smaller bowl (that fits into the colander) directly on top of the ingredients and weight it down with something.

Leave in a cool place for 1 hr. Meanwhile, put all the dressing ingredients into a jar, screw on the lid and shake to combine. After pressing, the cabbage mixture should have released some liquid into the bowl. This is full of good things and you can tip it into a glass and drink it like a shot – although the combined flavours are quite quirky! Discard it if it’s not for you. Tip the cabbage mixture back into the bowl and stir in the raisins and cashews. Pour on the dressing and stir through well. You can serve straight away or leave it to macerate at room temperature for another 30 mins, then toss again before serving. Serve scattered with coriander, if you like.

• Try cavolo nero, hispi or savoy instead of red or white cabbage. • You can use any nuts in place of the cashews – try walnuts, pecans or hazelnuts. • Swap the raisins for sultanas, dried cranberries or chopped dried cherries – or just leave out if you don’t like fruit in salads.

Recipes extracted from High Fibre Heroes by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (£26, Bloomsbury Publishing). Photographs: © Emma Lee. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

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Plant count 10 Fibre count 6g

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RECIPE INDEX

26 8

Starters and snacks

136 Leek and fennel bruschetta 14 Melon carpaccio with chilli honey dressing GF 56 Nargisi kofte scotch eggs with lime pickle and mango chutney yogurt 46 Roasted red pepper and cannellini bean dip with smoky pepper and almond topping V GF 54 Sausage and prawn toasts

Mains and sides

62 Aubergine in spiced yogurt 60 Beef Manchurian 30 Blackened courgette smash V 34 Buttered corn and smacked radish salad V GF 42 Cavolo nero, anchovy and roasted butter bean caesar 126 Courgette orzo 126 Dakos-style salad V

106 Durban lamb bunny chow 104 Egg chakalaka with crushed avocado 36 Grape and sumac coleslaw V GF 44 Green tahini, chickpea and roasted aubergine platter with charred dried apricots V 22 Indian summer lamb traybake GF 32 Lamb chops with smoky-sweet chilli sauce 39 Malaysian spiced burgers with tomatotamarind sambal 24 Pineapple, ginger and chilli salad VE GF 60 Prawn malaicurry 138 Pressed cabbage salad 20 Pulled buffalo chicken burgers with creamy slaw 54 Reuben(esque) hot dogs 136 Ribboned carrot and quinoa salad 8 Sardines with Japanese-style slaw and furikake 10 Sumac spiced chicken and new potato traybake GF 145 Thai-style chicken satay skewers

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Food writer Helen shares an elevated barbecue menu for summer sharing (p29).

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Verna eats

B A N G KO K

Each month our columnist shares a recipe inspired by her travels, plus tips for making your own version at home Recipe VERNA GAO Photographs ANDREW BURTON

SHOOT DIRECTOR: JORDAN EDMONDS-MOORE. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: KATY GREENWOOD

Thai-style chicken satay skewers Thai food has got to be one of my favourite cuisines. Between the smoky grilled meats, punchy curries and endless combinations of sweet, spicy, salty and sour flavours, it’s the kind of food I never get tired of eating. Every time I’m in Bangkok I find myself gravitating towards the street food stalls, where skewers sizzle over charcoal and the smell alone is enough to convince you to stop for a snack. These Thai chicken satay skewers are inspired by those flavours. And the best part is they’re simple to make, packed with flavour and are perfect for throwing on the barbecue this summer. SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY 750g skinless chicken thigh fillets, cut into cubes neutral oil, for frying steamed rice and lime wedges, to serve MARINADE 2 tbsp smooth peanut butter 1 tbsp thai red curry paste 100ml coconut milk 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 garlic clove, minced

1 tsp finely grated ginger squeeze of lime juice QUICK PICKLE julienned carrot and cucumber few coriander leaves 1 red chilli, finely chopped squeeze of lime juice dash of fish sauce pinch of caster sugar Whisk together all of the marinade ingredients in a bowl until smooth. Set aside a few spoonfuls for drizzling later and combine the chicken with the rest of the marinade, coating well. Marinate for at least 20 mins or overnight for a deeper flavour. Thread the chicken pieces onto skewers ready for cooking. Heat a drizzle of oil in a pan or griddle over a medium-high heat. Cook for 6-8 mins until browned and cooked through. Alternatively you can grill or barbecue until charred on the edges and cooked through. Make the quick pickle by combining the vegetables with the coriander, chilli, lime, fish sauce, sugar and a pinch of salt in a small bowl. Serve the skewers with lime wedges for squeezing over and the remaining satay sauce alongside steamed rice and the quick pickle. PER SERVING 397 kcals • fat 24G • saturates 9G carbs 7G • sugars 6G • fibre 1G • protein 37G • salt 0.6G

Verna Gao is a Shanghai-born chef, presenter, creator and author. She uses cooking as a means of staying connected to her Chinese heritage and loves travelling to learn about cultures through eating, as well as for recipe inspiration. Her book, Have You Eaten?, is out now. Follow her on Instagram @vernahungrybanana.

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Verna eats

B A N G KO K To see Verna making this recipe, head to olive’s Instagram page @olivemagazine.

TRY MY RECIPE ON PAGE 145

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I find myself gravitating towards Bangkok’s street food stalls, where skewers sizzle over charcoal and the smell alone is enough to convince you to stop for a snack

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