FIND THE RIGHT MOUNTAIN BIKE

With technology evolving in leaps and bounds, new ‘standards’ emerging and old ones swiftly becoming outdated, and an ever-growing dictionary of jargon to be deciphered, the mountain bike market can be a confusing place, even for seasoned riders. Highly specialised bikes sit side-by-side with machines that are claimed to excel at everything. And they’re all spread over such a vast price range that it can be hard to know where to start. Our objective over the next six pages is to set out all the factors you should consider when looking for a new ride. As well as helping you to work out what sort of bike will work best for your riding, we’ll explain the pros and cons of common choices you’ll face, and what you should expect at each price point.

It’s essential to establish early on what sort of trails you intend to ride and on which terrain you want your bike to excel. This will help you decide what category of bike you need. Unless you’re set on a hardtail or fatbike (see right), the easiest way to define the categories is in terms of suspension travel. Roughly speaking…

60-110mm: Cross-country race bike

Trail types: Fast-flowing, smooth.

Excels: Climbing and acceleration.

110-130mm: Downcountry bike

Trail types: Manmade loops and less rocky natural routes.

Excels: Covering distance fast.

130-150mm: Trail bike

Trail types: More technical tracks with some bigger features.

Excels: Equally capable up and downhill.

150-180mm: Enduro bike

Trail types: Steep, gnarly off-piste; rocky tech; bike-park tracks.

Excels: Rapid on the descents, but can still be pedalled back to the top.

180-200mm: Downhill/freeride bike

Trail types: The fastest, roughest descents known to man!

Excels: Descending; there’s no way you’re pedalling one uphill.

Less suspension travel usually means a lighter, faster bike uphill and on the flat. More travel generally equals better downhill capability. If you’re new to the sport and want to try a bit of everything, a mid-travel trail bike is the best all-rounder. Within this broad category, there’s still a lot of variation, though.

Want to rack up big miles on all-day epics? Lean towards shorter travel. If progressing your skills and tackling technical terrain is what gets your blood pumping, consider more bounce. The same rule of thumb is true for electric bikes too (see right), although with a motor to help on the climbs, it’s on flatter trails that a shorter-travel e-bike is likely to excel.

Few brands still make true women’s-specific MTBs with geometry optimised for the female form – Canyon (on some models) and Liv being two notable exceptions. Most argue that women’s requirements from a bike are much the same as similarly-proportioned men’s, so their ‘women’s bikes’ are simply unisex models with a different saddle and paintjob, and sometimes a lighter suspension tune, too. Opting for a unisex bike opens up more choice, and you can adapt them by fitting a women’s saddle, trimming the bar down and bolting on thinner grips.

With no rear suspension, hardtails are instead defined largely by their geometry and componentry. Affordable beginner bikes will often have quite conservatively-shaped frames and basic kit, while more specialised ‘hardcore’ options will have longer-andslacker chassis and burlier parts to help them handle better at speed and in the rough.

Hardtails are good value for money, with better parts than equivalently-priced full-sussers

With no pivots or links, there’s less to wear out or go wrong

Without the safety-net of rear suspension, you’re forced to ride well and choose smoother lines

You don’t get the same level of rear-wheel grip and traction, and there’s nothing to absorb bigger impacts

The rigid rear end can make them uncomfortable, although clever tube shaping and use of materials such as chromoly steel and titanium can mitigate this

Fatbikes with monster 3.5in to 5in tyres have a devout following in the bikepacking community, but unless you ride on sand or snow (and have a penchant for bushy beards and craft beer), they’re heavy, slow and the handling takes some getting used to. ‘Plus-size’ 2.8in to 3in tyres caused a buzz a few years ago, promising some of the fatbike benefits, but with less weight and rolling resistance. They make sense for hardtails, where their extra volume and bounce adds comfort, but tyre brands have struggled to deliver the right balance of strength, stability, grip and weight to satisfy more aggressive riders. Most manufacturers seem to have settled on 2.4in to 2.6in tyres as the best compromise for their trail and enduro bikes. If you’re still tempted by a plus bike, be warned that replacement tyres are expensive.

a confusing number of rear suspension designs out there, and it can be hard to know what’ll work best for you. The good news is that, these days, the vast majority work pretty well. Shortlisting bikes based on their linkage doesn’t make sense unless you’re after a specific ride characteristic. The nuances of each design only become apparent when you’re above a certain skill level anyway. you re above a certain skil

Motorised pedalling assistance continues to be the fastest-growing trend sweeping the bike world. E-MTBs have gained plenty of converts but still attract disdain from pedal-power purists. If you’ve never ridden one, then it’s definitely worth having a go to see what all the fuss is about. Just remember, while they’re certainly fun to ride, they don’t necessarily make all trails more enjoyable.

Motor assistance (which kicks in when you pedal) lets you cover ground faster and rack up elevation with ease

Heavy weight and low centre of gravity add extra stability and grip

They make uphills fun!

Wet, sloppy conditions are no longer such a slog

Pressed for time, or not at peak fitness? An e-bike will facilitate more riding

If you’re getting on a bit, recovering from injury or just want to hang out with a faster group, e-MTBs are a great tool

Even base models cost upwards of £1,000. For full suspension, expect to pay at least £3,000

Technology is evolving rapidly, so bikes become outdated quickly

Limited battery life

The heft of e-bikes makes them less chuckable and playful, so they can suck the fun out of some trails

You won’t get the same workout, unless you sprint everywhere

Motor assistance cuts out at 15mph under UK law, so getting to the trails can be frustratingly slow

For a long time, 26in wheels were the standard on mountain bikes, but with the exception of dirt-jump and slopestyle bikes, they’ve been phased out in favour of larger, faster-rolling hoops. Any new adult bike will likely come with either 27.5in- (historically known as 650b) or 29in-diameter wheels. If our local trails are anything to go by, the market is split roughly 50/50. ‘Twenty-niners’ have the advantages of carrying momentum better, rolling over obstacles more easily and providing more traction (due to the longer contact patch of their tyres). The disadvantages are that the bigger wheels accelerate slower, take more effort to slow down and are harder to initiate a turn with. This isn’t a problem in most scenarios, but if you have quite a dynamic riding style or like to ride trails that are tight, twisting and steep, then 650b wheels can be preferable. Early 29ers had some handling quirks, but modern geometry means they now ride as well as smaller-wheeled bikes. The extra height of 29in wheels is a factor to consider though, especially if you’re not very tall. Summed up in one line, we’d say 650b is fun, 29in is fast –which, of course, can also be fun...

Fox or RockShox suspension? Shimano or SRAM gears? When it comes to these componentry big guns, people have their preferences – and prejudices – but ultimately, all of them have products in their ranges that outperform the competition. Plenty of less prominent brands make decent kit, too. If you want to know how the parts on a bike will perform, forget the name stickers and read our reviews.

lighter and less noisy. At this price, you won’t get a high-performance machine, but the best bikes are still a ton of fun to ride.

£1,100-£2,300

Complete bikes can be roughly divided into six price brackets. Here’s what you can expect to get in each. Remember, cheap doesn’t necessarily mean good value...

The half-grand mark used to be the starting point for a ‘proper’ MTB, but in recent years it’s risen closer to £650. Spend much less and you’re likely to find compromises have been made with key components (fork, gearing, tyres, brakes) in order to keep the cost down. That’s fine if you only plan to ride gravel tracks or forest roads, but makes for a fairly unpleasant ride on anything more technical.

If your budget’s tight, or you ’ re just starting out, we’d definitely

, f our dg ’ ta ting e recommend a hardtail. Full-sussers at this price are likely to be let down by poor suspension, underpowered brakes and less-thangrippy tyres. First and foremost, look for a frame that fits you and has good geometry, because this’ll give you a good base for future upgrades. A suspension fork and hydraulic disc brakes are both musts, and a wide handlebar (760mm+) and short stem (35-50mm) will significantly improve the bike’s handling. As you go up in price, look for an airsprung fork (because these can be easily tuned to your weight) and stiffer bolt-through axles in place of quick-release skewers. A single chainring up front paired with a wide-range cassette at the rear (known as a ‘1x’ drivetrain) will give you the same gearing as a double crankset, but will be simpler to use,

Full-suspension trail bikes worth considering start at just over £1,000 (take a look at our test on page 10), although if you stick with a hardtail, you’ll get a better parts specification (‘spec’) for your money. Things to look for include a RockShox, Fox or Marzocchi fork, a 1x12 SRAM NX Eagle or Shimano SLX drivetrain, grippier soft-compound tyres and a dropper seatpost (these let you lower your saddle with the flick of a lever for more manoeuvrability on descents). Better-controlled suspension and more refined parts make these bikes handle a lot better in the rough, even if they still feel a little clunky.

£2,300-£4,000

Unless you’re a hardcore hardtail fan, full-sussers take over in this price bracket. Bikes costing this much should be capable of tackling all but the toughest climbs and most fearsome descents. More specialised machines – crosscountry (XC) race rigs, enduro and downhill (DH) bikes, e-MTBs –start to appear. An increased emphasis on performance brings up-to-date geometry and lighter, more elegant frames, with neater cable routing and integrated protection. Carbon fibre starts to become an option, too. As price increases, you can expect considerably better-damped suspension, as well as more adjustability. Wheels get lighter and tougher, and rims are wider (on trail/enduro bikes) to support higher-volume tyres. You should get a 1x drivetrain as standard.

£4,000-£6,000

At this point, performance gains start to become more marginal. You’ve got plenty of choice here –not just between an aluminium or carbon frame, but steel (including boutique handmade options) and titanium, too. Forks and shocks jump up another tier, and you can expect big-name parts instead of in-house kit. As you go up in price, you’ll see more and more carbon – bars, cranks, wheels, etc. While this adds bling and can save weight, the difference in ride quality is often negligible.

£6,000+

You’re entering the realm of the ‘superbike’ here. If you’re spending this much, you should have a good idea of what you’re looking for –but don’t buy without checking out our testers’ verdicts first!

You can get much more for your money and pick up a real bargain by buying second-hand, but it’s easy to get caught out if you’re not savvy. Here are some things to watch out for:

Check scrupulously for fatigue marks on the paint, cracks and dents. Cycle the bike through its suspension travel and pull the rear wheel from side to side to check the state of the pivot bearings and shock bushings.

Ask to see service documents and question how frequently the oil/ seals have been changed.

Examine the wear using a chain checker. If the chain is very old, you may have to budget for a new cassette and chainring, too.

Do they spin true? Check for dents and dings. If a wheel has been buckled and pulled back into line, it won’t last as long.

More and more brands are cutting out bike shops and distributors and selling directly to their customers, via the internet. For the buyer, this has advantages and disadvantages.

You’ll get more for your money. By cutting out the middlemen, brands such as Canyon, Commencal, Intense, Propain, Radon, Vitus and YT Industries can turn out top-performing bikes with impressive build kits at extremely competitive prices

Buying a new bike is quick, easy and can be done from the comfort of your sofa

Some websites allow you to swap parts or even spec custom colours so you get exactly the bike you want

There’s less chance to try before you buy. While some direct-sale brands hold occasional demo days, it’s not as convenient as dropping into your local shop and sitting on a range of different bikes. Don’t underestimate the value of this, especially if you’re unsure exactly what it is you’re looking for

Lead times can be long. You’ll likely have to order your bike well ahead of time and it’s not uncommon for delivery dates to get pushed back, which risks ruining your summer riding plans!

After-sales support may not be as good. Bikes bought through your local shop will often come with the perk of a free service and, potentially, a loyalty discount on parts. Building up a good rapport with the mechanic (try supplying them with biscuits or beer!) can save a lot of stress if you find you need something fixing at the last minute.

You’re not supporting the UK bike industry. Bike shops can be valuable community hubs and great places to seek advice and meet like-minded people. Use them or lose them!

£2,300-£4,000 £4,000-£6,000 £6,000+

A bike and helmet are the only two true essentials for riding off-road, but you’ll be a lot happier in proper MTB kit than in a T-shirt, trackies and trainers. That’s because technical cycling clothing is designed to be light yet tough; to allow unrestricted movement; and to ‘wick away’ sweat, in contrast to fabrics like cotton, which quickly become damp and cold. With the right kit, you’ll stay comfortable for longer, so you can focus on having fun. Remember to budget for these basics when buying a bike...

Find a lid that fits comfortably and securely, or you won’t want to wear it and it won’t protect your brain properly. Try a few on – one that suits your mate’s head shape won’t necessarily work for you. Make sure it meets CE safety standards. Extended rear coverage is a bonus, as is additional safety tech (multi-density foam or a system to reduce rotational forces).

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Bell 4Forty MIPS £89.99 www.zyrofisher.co.uk

Look for a lightweight, wicking fabric that’ll keep you cool as things hot up on the trails. Good cycling tops tend to be slightly longer at the rear than at the front, to keep your back covered when you’re bent over in the saddle. Raglan sleeve construction allows easier movement on the bike.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Nukeproof Blackline £45 www.hotlines-uk.com

Your hands are often the first things to hit the ground if you fall, so it makes sense to protect them. They’re also in contact with the grips, so can be prone to blisters, and may take knocks and scrapes from undergrowth or foliage.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Scott Ridance £24.99 www.scott-sports.com

You’ll be surprised at the difference some well-fitting, stretchy and durable shorts make to your time on the bike. Look for Velcro tabs to adjust the fit, a raised rear waist and a cut that’s neither too slim around the thighs nor too baggy at the crotch.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Rockrider ST 900 £24.99 www.decathlon.co.uk

5 SHOES

MTB-specific shoes help stop your feet getting jolted off the pedals in rough terrain and have stiff soles for efficient power delivery. Start off with flat pedals and flatpedal shoes – it’s easy to get a foot off if things go wrong, and they help teach good technique. Once you’re confident on the bike, you may wish to switch to clipless (aka clip-in/SPD) pedals and shoes – which use a skistyle mechanical binding – for extra security and more powerful pedalling.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Shimano GR5 £79.99 www.freewheel.co.uk

6

Crashes are an inevitable, if (hopefully) infrequent, part of mountain biking. Pads provide protection if you fall and can boost confidence, too. You’ll want a pair that allow you to move comfortably and don’t get too hot.

MBUK RECOMMENDS

Fox Enduro D3O £52.50 https://uk.foxracing.com

Unless you have the sort of mind that can study a geometry chart and suspension graph and decipher exactly how a bike will feel, we’d advise trying before buying. Lots of shops offer demo rides and these are a great way to hone in on the sort of ride feel you’re after. Just remember that small differences in tyre pressure and suspension settings can have a big effect, so don’t write off a demo bike before tweaking these a little.

Getting a bike that fits you properly is the most important factor. Geometry and sizing aren’t consistent between brands, so always make sure to check the measurements. Don’t be tempted to compromise on fit just because your mate’s raving about a particular bike. If it isn’t quite right for you – the top tube’s a little short or you can’t get the seat low enough, for example – it’ll affect your fun far more than a fancy paint job or a posh suspension fork.

If this is your first new bike in a while, it might surprise you how much longer they’ve got in recent years. This isn’t because we’ve all suddenly got taller, but because designers have figured out that stretched-out bikes with slacker head angles handle far better at speed. Any initial awkwardness you may feel when trying to manoeuvre a bigger bike around will soon disappear (assuming it’s the right size for you) and you’ll wonder how you ever managed on that cramped little ‘kid’s bike’ you had before.

Traditionally, bikes were sized by seat tube length. This is still an important factor, because you need to ensure you can get the saddle to an efficient height for pedalling, as well as drop it out of the way for descending. However, the advent of long-travel dropper seatposts has permitted bike designers to reduce seat tube lengths. As well as giving more freedom of movement, this allows riders to ‘upsize’ to a larger frame for more length, or vice versa.

Perhaps the most important metric when it comes to how big a bike will feel to ride is its ‘reach’ –the horizontal distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the top of the head tube. This measurement gives a good indication of how stretchedout you’ll feel when standing on the pedals. From surveying our team of MBUK and BikeRadar testers, we found the interesting correlation that our ideal reach in millimetres was consistently between 2.6 and 2.7 times our height in centimetres. This calculation should give you a good starting point. Some brands –notably Specialized – have now moved to reach-based sizing.

For more on bike sizes and measurements, see our ‘Geometry Lessons’ feature in MBUK 375.

Most bikes have got longer and slacker over the past few years, as the bigger manufacturers catch up with the progressive geometry pioneered by the likes of Mondraker. But brands such as Nicolai/ GeoMetron, Pole, Airdrop and Privateer are making bikes with notably more extreme head angles and reaches than is the (new) norm. While this superprogressive geometry has potential advantages in terms of control and stability, especially on fast and steep enduro-style tracks, it’s less suited to flatter terrain, and the slightly altered riding style required to reap the benefits won’t suit everyone.

If you’re curious about experimenting with a super-long bike, we’d recommend taking one for a demo ride before buying.