9 minute read

Successful watering with Alan

Without it we perish – and so do our gardens. Water is the stuff of life, but like all valuable assets it needs to be carefully managed to avoid wastage and to make sure we get the most out of it. You’ll know from a glance at your bill that as a commodity water is not cheap, so in terms of economy you’ll need to prioritise its use in the garden, reserving it for those plants that really need it, and not squandering it on those that will survive dry spells perfectly well without your watering can or hosepipe. With a few simple precautions you’ll be able to make sure your water supply is directed to those plants that will really benefit. And to avoid using mains water as much as possible, it’s vital to collect and store as much rainwater as you can. Giving this to your plants will help to make this valuable resource go further.

Water tomatoes on a regular basis when the fruits are swelling, to prevent the skins splitting

What needs watering?

It is the plants that are most vulnerable to fluctuating moisture levels in the soil that need the most attention when it comes to watering. It stands to reason that anything growing in a container is totally at the mercy of you and your watering can. If you let the compost in pots, baskets and other containers dry out, growth stops, plants wilt and – in severe cases – they die. But if you keep the potting compost evenly moist, growth will be markedly more healthy and the production of flowers and fruits more consistent.

Newly planted trees, shrubs, perennials and bedding plants need watering to establish their roots. They should be watered repeatedly until their root system has travelled far enough to ensure they have access to reserves deeper in the ground – generally during prolonged dry spells in their first year.

Fruit and vegetables need steady supplies of moisture to keep them growing and developing well. Take tomatoes, for instance. Allow them to dry out and growth slows down, the skin of the fruit begins to harden and when water is reapplied it has lost its flexibility and the fruit splits. It will still be edible, but nothing like as succulent as it would have been with a steady supply of moisture.

Forget about watering established plants with deep root systems. Only those that have roots close to the surface and that always seem to wilt in prolonged dry spells – such as rudbeckias, phlox and asters – are worth giving a soak to relieve their stress and keep them growing. Likewise, although the lawn is the first thing to suffer in a drought (grass roots being very close to the surface), it has tough little buds that will stay alive and regenerate come the first shower of rain. Only newly sown lawns or those being established from turf should be watered to prevent them dying before your very eyes. So use a sprinkler only on the newest of lawns.

Rainwater always seems to be more to plants’ liking than mains water, but the latter is most certainly preferable to no water at all. Hard water may turn the leaves of rhododendrons and other lime haters yellow, so where possible collect rainwater for them. Efficient options

Irrigation systems are a great luxury and if they can be installed when you’re creating a garden, they will save you time and heartache, although the cost of installation will be relatively high. Systems that deliver the water to the roots, rather than spraying overhead, are more economical and efficient in terms of the amount of water delivered. As well as avoiding water loss by evaporation, they will also prevent plants being weighed down by water and their stems being broken as a consequence. A soaker-hose snaked between the plants just below the surface of the soil is about the most efficient means of getting water to the roots. Link it to a computerised timer at the tap and your watering can be automated to suit prevailing weather conditions.

Improve your soil at the outset, adding organic matter to encourage water retention, apply a mulch in spring to prevent evaporation, and choose plants that will enjoy the prevailing moisture conditions in that particular part of your garden – moisture-lovers in boggy areas, drought-tolerant plants where the soil is prone to drying out – and you will save yourself both money and plants.

To reduce watering, choose larger pots – small ones dry out too quickly

BUYING TIPS

Water butts are a great way to cut your water bills, reduce your mains-water usage and help the environment. There are many sizes, designs and prices, from slim-line butts for tight spaces to eco-friendly recycled-plastic rain barrels. Browse our guide to the latest and best at GardenersWorld.com/water-butts

Watering cans help you water more selectively and moderately, and there’s a huge array of styles, colours and sizes to suit all tastes. Plastic is lighter to carry, but galvanised steel will last for years. Check out our favourites at GardenersWorld.com/watering-cans

Irrigation systems are surprisingly easy to set up and will save you time and money in the long run. They can even be connected to a water butt if you add a pump. See GardenersWorld.com/watering-system for how to choose and set up an automatic system.

Find out more about environment-kind watering kit, and where to buy, on page 79.

Watering containers

The type of container you choose will have a bearing on the amount of watering it needs. The larger the container, the more slowly it will dry out, so try to avoid having masses of tiny pots on a patio or terrace – they will make you a slave to the hosepipe or watering can. The compost will dry out far too fast and the plants will suffer as a result.

Terracotta and ceramic containers tend to remain cooler than those made of plastic. Ceramic containers dry out more slowly than unglazed terracotta, but now we enter the realms of taste and I am reluctant to interfere with your planting style – even if blue ceramic pots are terribly 90s…

Peat-free composts need to be kept evenly moist at all times. If they dry out, they shrink from the sides of the pot and re-wetting them can be difficult. I like to use a mixture of soil-based and peatfree compost, which tends to slow down the drying process and reduce shrinkage, as well as adding weight for stability.

When planting up containers, don’t fill them to the brim. Leave a gap between the surface of the compost and the rim of the pot to allow for watering. Apply water until the pot overflows.

Plant outdoor containers densely. Although this will fill the container with roots, it will slow down evaporation from the surface of the compost.

Watering in the evening is the preferred time of day, so the water will be absorbed under cover of darkness when evaporation rates are at their lowest.

To test the dryness of potting compost, look at it, feel it with your finger or weigh the pot in your hand. If the compost feels like a freshly wrung-out flannel, it is sufficiently moist. Wait until the surface is slightly dry before you soak the compost again.

To look after your containers when you go on holiday, you can invest in a spaghetti system of irrigation pipes for larger containers on a terrace or patio, linked to a timer attached to the tap. Alternatively seek out an obliging neighbour who is happy to check them each day in return for the harvest from your veg patch!

An irrigation system or leaky hose is ideal for thirsty crops, delivering water directly to where it’s needed

LISTEN to Alan talking about how to attract more wildlife into your garden, and growing your own fruit and veg. Plus, Arit discusses water-wise gardening in our Growing Greener podcasts. All available at GardenersWorld.com/podcast

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