Summer 2008 Issue 08
THE NOIR ISSUE 1
Photography by Jolijn Snijders Make up Imke Zuidema Model Annabel
CONTRIBUTORS Editor In Chief
Jolijn Snijders email@example.com
Jordy Huinder firstname.lastname@example.org
Jolijn Snijders, Sbastien, Tim Pen, Lina Scheynius, Jonathan Leder, Jonnie Craig, Thomas Zum Vorde, Christian Benzoni, Dennis van Doorn, Osvaldo Sanviti
Imke Zuidema, Carlijn Beukers, Tim Pen, Skin Models, Annabel Jansen, B-Creatives, Micha Models, Sandrine Pagnoux, John Casey, SpicePR, Ganbaroo, Gabriel Moreno, Dina Popova
Jolijn Snijders Ilovefake Magazine De Zetter 5 1521CT Wormerveer www.ilovefakemagazine.com
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THE NOIR ISSUE 04 Girls on film
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Interview with Jonathan Leder Gabriel Moreno Jonnie Craig and his world in black Picket Fencing The monsters of John Casey Must-See: Omega Bridge Doze Green & Fefe at Kspace Boys just want to have fun photography by Sbastien Get the look boy meets girl, color carnival & prep it up Lina Scheynius Digital Sneak Peak Home Sweet Home Editorial by Jolijn Snijders The princess and the plants Editorial by Osvaldo Sanviti Sandrine Pagnoux Tous est mort sans toi Dina Popova Noir Avec Blanca Photography by Dennis van Doorn While we were young Editorial by Jolijn Snijders
Jonathan Leder lives and works in New york as a fashion photographer. He started his career by assisting superstar photographer Steven Klein. Leder has shot editorials for Lula, Nylon, Soma to name a few. With an indie point of view he has a distinct style, using film and polaroid he captures the girls in a way they only appear in dreams. Photography: Jonathan Leder Interview: Jolijn Snijders
Please describe your average monday for us? Feed Cats. Get breakfast for girlfriend. Answer emails. Go to printspace to make work and prints, pretty boring I guess. When did you start your carreer, how did you get into it? After studying painting for many years, I decided to return to photography. I started as an intern at Interview Magazine in the 90s and then I went to work for wellknown photographer Steven Klein. I remember my first day at his studio. He was shooting Guinevere van Seenus for French Vogue. It was pretty cool. After working for Steven for nearly 1 year, I 4
was hired to do production at his agency, Michele Filomeno Agency. I worked there for several years doing productions for Steven Klein, Peter Lindbergh, Javier Vallhonrat, and other major fashion photographers. I did a lot of shoot production and a lot of casting, so it was cool because we got to see and work with so many of the big girls of the late 90s like Amber Valletta, Bridget Hall, Sunniva, Karen Elson, Amy Wesson, etc. How Not ing too
would you describe your style? sure… I think I don’t like retouchand I don’t like when the girls are perfect. I like a girl who has some
character, who has something real about her. I generally prefer to work with Americans whenever possible, only because I understand their culture and their background more, and I think this is important. I also don’t like it when the pictures become too much about the lighting or the clothes.
ter living here for so long, the act of watching people becomes second nature. Everything is inspiring.
I prefer natural light, ambient light, or if I have to I might use a film light. I always shoot film or Polaroid. I really don’t care at all for digital. I like things to be analog and approachable.
Name a few people that would you like to work with? I would love to see certain people photograph: Deborah Turbeville, Bob Richardson, Sarah Moon, Carlo Mollino, Helmut Newton, Robert Mapplethorpe, Diane Arbus. I would love to see/to have seen them work.
I like your polaroids so much, are you pissed that they are discontinuing the film? Well, that’s life I guess. I am sure we will survive, but yes it’s sad.
If you could repeat something in your life, what would it be? I had a very nice childhood, I wouldn’t mind doing that again!
Future goals? Take more pictures.
What are your parents like, do they like your work? My mom passed away when I was younger. My dad still works as a well known attorney for a big law firm. He is so nice and supportive. And I had a younger sister, but she passed away a couple of years ago as well. How do you get the models to pose in such a natural, sexy way? They look like they are your girlfriends. A secret I guess Where do you get your inspiration? I love books, movies, people, culture, places, photos, anything. I am born and raised in NYC so I think af5
Model MARCEL @ DNA Right page: AMAND A @ ELITE, MEG
Model MIKEL @ FORD
Model NATHALIA @ SUPREME
10 BRITNEY SHELNUTE @ ELITE Model
Model DANIELLE LUFT
Model DANIELLE LUFT
Artwork GABRIEL MORENO
JONNIE CRAIGS HOWSH ISWORL DINBL ACK. Interview Jolijn Snijders Photography Jonnie Craig 22
Jonnie Craig (19) hails from London. He works as a regular photographer for VICE magazine UK, is currently working on showing in galleries and shooting campaigns, all by the age of 19. Not bad for someone who started photography for fun, shooting his friends during the day and night. Heeeeere’s Jonnie! Describe your average ‘working’ week? Monday to friday I am normally shooting. Last week I was in sweden shooting a really cool new band called ‘OWL’. They are amazing. I love them. When did you start your career? My career technically started about a year ago when I started getting published in Vice Magazine and a few other things. I got in to photography properly when I was about 16. I used to take photos of my friends skateboarding and hanging out in and around London. I never thought it would go this far! How did you get in contact with Vice? About a year ago Ryan Mcginley recommended me there to start shooting for them. I am mostly a photographer there but I do a few other things like get new people in to shoot stuff. Its fun. nice people there too. How would you describe your style in general? Stolen What are you listening to right now? I like loads of different music. But at the moment I am listening to Joy Division a lot, and Spiritualized and OWL. People on your funeral must listen to? Spiritualized - Ladies + gentlemen, We are floating in space
What projects are you working on now? At the moment I am working on my personal stuff until summer. I just finished a campaign and a few other things for some companies. My main thing right now though is working towards some gallery deadlines at the end of the year. Your free time consists of...? Sleep, play guitar and skateboard. What job would you do if you were not a photographer? I always wanted to work in advertising, since I was quite young. I used to find adverts interesting, only the good ones that crop up every so often. Where do you get your inspiration? 26
I used to take photos of my friends skateboarding and hanging out in and around London. I never thought it would go this far! From everything. Mostly my friends and from other people that make things, and films Tell me something about your neighbourhood. Whatâ€™s it like to live there? I live on the border of Kent and London. Its nice living here, although... about 10 months ago someone was revealed to be a convicted pervert that now lives on my street 100 yards from a school!! and the other day someone, somehow
found out who it was and chucked paint all over their brand new car and wrote pervert on their door in huge letters.
The BEST thing that could ever happen? If my cat could talk.
So other than perverts, old people and school kids every weekday morning, it’s ok.
Name 3 people that would you like to work with? Gavin Watson, Alex sturrock, Boris johnson
3 things you hate? Urban warriors, photographers, Football pricks 3 things you love? Music, pictures, asparagus Your view on the world right now? I keep to myself. The world is too big. If you could repeat something in your life, what would it be? I would repeat - Monday the 27th of june 2005
Last movie you watched that we must see? Made In Britain - because its amazing, Watch to find out why. Future goals? To make more pictures and play more guitar and sleep until 1pm every day Famous last words? ‘’Why would she want to go out with me? I don’t know any cool bands’’n more info: www.jonniecraig.co.uk
fencing with pickets J o hn C a s ey (44 ), t he art ist beh i n d Bunnywax, lives and works in O a k l a n d, C a l i for nia. He recent ly s howe d h i s w o rk in an exhibit ion t i t l e d “Pi c ke t Fencing” , depict ing a c ou pl e of monst ers fight ing (or, fe nci n g) w i th p icket s. We love his m o nsters and would love to know m ore! artwork John Casey Interview Jolijn Snijders
What was a real big factor in you deciding to pursue becoming and artist? When was it that you decided that you wanted to create art? I have always been inclined toward art-making, even as a wee lad. I went to art school after high school and graduated with a degree as a painter. For years I maintained an art studio and worked various jobs to pay the bills. I had mediocre success and it wasn’t until I moved to Oakland from Boston and turned 40 that I really began to apply myself professionally. Where did you study and did you like your school? I studied at Massachusetts College of Art. I entered school intending to study Industrial Design but quickly chose to pursue oil painting. The critical environment was challenging and necessary. I probably did not appreciate the teachers and instruction as much back then, but in retrospect it was the best place for me as a developing artist. After school, did you start off right away as a freelancer? No, I have always worked other jobs to support myself. I have accepted this state of being in order to work in a purely fine art context. I have done web work and some 34
design work as a freelancer, but I have also worked jobs as a security guard, a cook, a maintenance technician, and a property manager, just to name a few. How would you describe your latest work? I recently finished an installation called “Picket Fencing,” which is showing at Swarm Gallery (swarmstudios.net). It includes almost life-sized wood cutouts of crazy battling characters I have developed over time. Your installation ‘Picket Fencing’ looks like a real lifesize comic, about evil little monsters disrupting a nice neighbourhood, what made you do this project? A father of four young boys told me this story. His sons were out playing in their large backyard one afternoon. At one point, the father went out into the backyard and found his sons wildly battling each other with numerous wooden pickets torn from his pristine white-picket fence. The boys were literally fencing with pickets. “Picket Fencing” is simply my attempt to capture the spirit of that manic scenario. The implied politics or metaphors are left openended for the viewer to parse. Remember, it’s always fun until someone loses an eye. Do you travel a lot for your work? Some. I have traveled in recent years to attend openings in Boston, Nashville, and Los Angeles.
What projects are you working on now? I am working on a book of 60-80 drawings that will be published by Rowan Morrison (rowanmorrison.com) this fall. What music do you like to work to? Recently, bands I have been listening to: Subtle, Tortoise, Alias, The Dodos, Holy Fuck, Boris, Dosh, Yppah, and Steve Reich. I’ve also been listening to audiobooks. My most recent one was Richard Price’s “Lush Life.” That is a good one. Who or what has influenced you? An impossible list to compile, I think, but a sampling might include; artists Honoré Daumier, Otto Dix, Francis Bacon, Leon Golub, Kiki Smith, Anselm Keifer, Paul Klee, Philip Guston, science fiction literature, contemporary films like Cronenberg’s “Naked Lunch,” Julie Taymor’s “Titus,” and anything by the Brothers Quay. Naming my art contemporaries would be very difficult. There are so many good ones I look at. What sets you apart from other people in your profession? I have been told that I have a strong work ethic to the point of over achievement. I think that is a good thing. That quality may have come late in my career, but better late than never. Can you tell me a little more about the process of making your sculptures? How did you get into it? I left school as a painter then shortly afterward began working painted paper pulp relief on cutout wood. These constructions eventually became actual figurative sculp-
tures. The sculptures are small because I love the intimate and precious quality of miniature and my studios have usually been small spaces. My techniques have improved. I used to sculpt with polymer clays, but now I use epoxy clays which are much more durable. I love the idea of the totem of the object with power, so sculpture is a nice way to convey that. Where do you find inspiration for future projects? Good question. Often the venue dictates the size or materials of work I make. As far as how ideas emerge from my head, my muse remains a mystery and I am okay with that. I don’t want to turn over too many rocks looking for it. It seems to have more power if it remains in the dark. What are you loving at the moment? Drawing outdoors. The weather has been awesome here in the Bay Area. Best advice you have ever been given? A professor of mine said something like, “No matter what happens in your life, make the art. All other things in your life may fall out of balance but, if you always work at making your art, balance can be maintained.” I find much truth in this advice. What are your future plans? I have some group shows coming up in Los Angeles and Berlin. I’m making some lifesized sculptures for a group show in Oakland, which is a trip. But my biggest upcoming event is a solo show in March 2009 at Swarm Gallery. Oh, and look for my book this fall! n more info: bunnywax.com 35
Installation “picket fencing”
wax sculpture “TWO FACED”
OMEGA BRIDGE BY DOZE & FEFê TALAVERA photography: tim penn more info: kspace.tv
On 27 June we checked out the exhibition opening at K-space in Amsterdam presenting “Omega Bridge”, featuring artwork of Doze Green (Rock Steady Crew) collaborating with Brazilian artist Fefê Talavera. Supported by Orlando Reyes (58 Gallery, Nyc). The Omega bridge exposition is inspired by Doze and Fefe’s heritage and multi-ethnicities. Together they create a magical chaos where Doze’s creatures and characters meet Fefê’s graphic ‘monsters’. This exhibition will run until 26th July. Check it!
Presented in association with 58 Gallery and 290 Square Meters.
K-SPACE GALLERY Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 262 1012 RS Amsterdam www.dozegreen.com www.myspace.com/fefe_talavera
BOYS JUST WANT TO HAVE FUN by SBASTIEN www.sbastien.com
BOY MEETS GIRL
We love the Boyish girl look! Designers mix both worlds and take the best from both. Take a black or white button down men’s shirt (yes finally some Dior Homme!) and mix it with something taken out of your own wardrobe. Wear baggy men trousers with a classic wifebeater and finish the look with feminin pumps to go. Get to it, rob your boyfriends closet and mix it with your own. Agyness Deyn as the ultimate inspirition source for this look!
Dress julia eichler Legging H&m
Neo Geo Arty Chic! Try different shapes with colorful dessins and patterns. This look is inspired by 60’s Warhol, and by artists Mondriaan and Picasso. We spotted this trend on the runway of Chanel, Miu Miu, Givenchy and Chloé. Not in the mood for colorful thoughts? Black and white Neo Geo works too. 47
Photography Jolijn Snijders @ PAR31 Stylist & text Jordy Huinder @ bcreatives Make up & Hair Carlijn @ bcreatives Model Jenna @ micha MODELS
prep it up. Do you still have your classic school uniform in your closet? Time to get it out, mix it with some new garments and get your street credibility back. Create a mix between your preppy uniform and your boyfriends sporty jock look. Mix it with high top sneakers, old jeans and hoodies. Or just use the classic black legging, for a mod look, but with a chic edge. A black lame legging for extra edge makes you go from good girl to preppy bad girl.
Dress FRED PERRY
LINA SCHEYNIUS I fell in love with Lina Scheyni us photos the
moment i first saw them. Lina (26) is a photographer living and working in Paris. Her photos
are fragile and cinematic, often using herself as
a main character. The settings are often thought provoking and and using her photography in a way like keeping a diar y.
Photography LINA Scheynius Interview jolijn snijders
When did you start your carreer, how did you get into it? I started it just over a year ago. Before that i was only ever taking pictures for myself. About a year ago a photographer friend of mine who had seen my photos told me i should try and do some fashion pictures, that it would be good practice. I asked my friend Amanda who collects vintage dresses if she wanted to style it, and she asked a magazine if they wanted to publish it, and after that it all went pretty fast. Now i am represented by a big agent in New York and it is all very great. Please describe your average monday for us? My life is a little bit all over the place at the moment and i travel quite a lot, but if i am in Paris i usually start my days with a pain aux raisins and a glass of milk. After that i go to the playground where there is free wifi and 100 screaming Chinese children and download my emails. And after that i work work work or play play play. What would be your dream shoot? Any shoot where i would have the ability to completely surprise myself in a positive way.
How would you describe your (photography) style? I wouldn’t. If people want to put words to my photographs they are more than welcome to, but i don’t want to do it. What’s your favorite camera to shoot with, are you also using polaroids? My very favourite camera is my automatic canon EOS 500 slr. My parents gave it to me on my 18th birthday and after having hated it for a couple of years it turned out to be my favourite one ever. I also love my new olympus mju. It is tiny and it is the first time in my life i actually carry a camera with me most of the time. It’s very sad about the polaroids because my polaroid one camera is also a favourite, but it is not the end of the world or photography. What would you do if you were not a photographer? I think my dream job has always been to be a writer. I love the idea of being free to work where you want and when you want and to be in complete control over your creative process. I wouldn’t mind being a mathematician either. Obviously not for the same reasons though. Is there always a particular story behind your photos? Not really. I tend to live in the moment when i shoot and avoid too much or any planning even. The reason that there might be a similarity that runs through all of my work is merely because of me and my view of the world around me. Where do you get your inspiration? I get a lot of ideas when i am in movement at the same time as i listen to music. Walking down the street or sitting on a bus in london with music in my ears. People with a drive and conviction who don’t give in to their fears are also very inspiring. 52
Tell me something about your neighbourhood. What’s it like to live there? When i go to my local bakery to buy the bread in the morning the man behind the till gives me a free lollipop and tells me to think about him when i suck on it. A few meters from my house a bunch of homeless people live in a tent and are cooking food on the pavement and a 100 meters further down the street there are regular praying meetings for the Muslims on the street outside the mosque. I am happy living here! If you could repeat something in your life, what would it be? If it was possible i would repeat everything. The good and the bad. Am very happy where i am today and it is very much thanks to yesterday. The worst thing that could ever happen? I have a pretty vivid imagination, but I don’t think I could imagine it. Thank fuck :) Name a few people that would you like to work with? I never know if i would love to work with someone or photograph them before i have met them really. It is very important for me that i feel comfortable with the people i work with and that they feel comfortable with me! At the moment i work a lot with two of the people closest to me: Amanda Ericsson and Emeric Glayse, and i am very happy with that. Future goals? To buy a house by a lake in Sweden. And publish my 2nd self published book. I just finished the first one called LINA SCHEYNIUS 01 and i am hoping it will be the first one in a long series. It will be light and affordable and sold exclusively through my website. More info: www.linascheynius.com n
DIGITAL SNEAK PEAK Always on the lookout for that limited edition sneaker that just got released? Browsing the web for hours on end to score the 80th pair of Nikes no one has? You might be a sneakerfreaker and you need help. photography by THOMAS ZUM VORDE text JOLIJN SNIJDERS
Get your daily dose of dopeness at these blogs, shops & websites! http://www.nicekicks.com large site with a lot of updates! http://urban.blogo.nl blog about sneakers, always updated http://www.hypebeast.com magazine about art, culture & sneakers! http://www.sneakerfreak.com community for sneakerlovers http://www.kickzstore.com/ shop for sneakers & streetwear 60
Photo g ra p h e d a n d sty l e d by Jo l i j n S n i j d e rs Make up & Hair IMKE ZUIDEMA Model ANNABEL
Skirt LAURA DOLS Jacket H&M 63 Shoes VINTAGE ADIDAS
Leopard print top H&M
Legging AMERICAN APPAREL Dress H&M Pumps LAURA DOLS
Jacket ZARA Dress ST YLISTS OWN Pumps LAURA67 DOLS
Dress AMERICAN APPAREL Gloves LAURA DOLS Legging AMERICAN APPAREL
Shirt CIRQUE DE LA SOLEIL Panty ST YLISTS OWN Necklace H&M
THE PRINCESS AND THE PLANT Photography by OSVALDO SANVITI
SANDRINE PAGNOUX TOUT EST MORT SANS TOI. Name: Sandrine Pagnoux Age: 32 Location: Paris Representation: Marie & Nous More info: www.sandrinepagnoux.com
Blond, XLR8R. I have done advertisements for brands such as Le Coq Sportif, Go sport... I also make album covers and visuals for t-shirts. My projects are to continue doing my work!
What and where did you study? I have studied graphic design for a year in Paris but I am almost completely autodidact.
Most interesting project you have ever done? The work i have done for “le coq sportif” in Asia. It’s great to make a visual and imagine it far away from my town. There is something magical about that…
Please tell us how you started your carreer after your studies? I always wanted to work independently, so after my studies of Graphic Design I worked alone at home for a year just for myself. I made a portfolio abels, advertising adgencies. Now I’ve also signed with an agent. Name three people who you would like to work it? Patti Smith, Beth Gibbons, PJ Harvey What keywords what you use to describe your artwork? Intuitive, violent, raw, emotional, textured, melancholic, romantic, artizanal, fragil, human, strong What kind of projects do you do? Who have you worked for? I work for magazines as Wig, Marie Claire, Zoot, 76
What would you do if you lost your talent to draw? I don’t know if I have a talent to draw...but I know I’ll always find a solution. To continue to express artistically what I have in me, whatever technic it may be, all media are good. There is always solutions to express oneself when it’s vital! Please describe your average weekday? No day is the same. It depends on the job i am doing at that moment. I can work all day and all the night, and the other day i don’t have to work so much. I don’t have a typical day... What did you like when you were young? I liked to be in my room, doing collages, draws, listening and recording music in tapes, writing, to play with my camera, watching films...and ride my little motorcycle to join my friends
Where do you get your inspiration ? Currently, the new album of Portishead. What artists/movies etc influenced your oeuvre? Creative and authentic people as musicians, songwriters, poets, painters, photographers, fashion designers, filmmakers... they all influence me. I can name artists such as Sophie Etchart, Patti Smith, Marianne Faithfull, David Bowie, Bjork, Beth Gibbons, Serge Gainsbourg, Mano Solo, Egon Schiele, Basquiat, Picasso, Enki Bilal, Pedro Almodovar, Tim Burton, Charlie Chaplin, Antonin Artaud, Marguerite Duras, Virginie Despentes, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano... Some fictional characters I have great affection are Mina Tanenbaum and Edward Scissor Hands from Tim Burton. Tell me something about your neighbourhood. I live in the center of Paris in “Le Marais”, between the Picasso museum and Centre Pompidou (Beaubourg), two places that I love! The best thing that could ever happen? To be alive, deeply alive. Future goals? I just hope to keep passionate about what I do. To not lose my ideal, my dreams. I hope to keep having pleasure, fun and freedom in my work. Famous last words? “On est tous dans le caniveau mais certains regardent les étoiles” Oscar Wilde n
artwork by DINA POPOVA
NOIR A VEC BL ANC A
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DENNIS VAN DOORN In the world of photography, Paul Blanca is a distinct outsider. what makes him so colorful and special? The selftaught Paul Blanca goes his own creative, black and white way. He, not the commissioner of his work, decides what must be done, to him it’s about the expression of tragedy. Another Dutch photographer, Dennis van Doorn, shot Blanca in an honest, real way, portraying a subject that is scarred for life. It’s clear that Blanca is a man of extremes. Passion without pain, is clearly non existent.
while we were young P hotogr aph y: Jolijn Snijders St ylin g : J o rd y Huind er
â€œ..and sometimes you close your eyes and see the place where you used to live,... while you were young. - The Killersâ€?
S h i r t Fre d Pe r r y S h o es Fre d Pe r r y Pa nts Lew
S h i r t Yves Sa i nt L a ure nt Tro u se rs Wol f
O u tfi t by Fre d Pe r r y
S h i r t Fre d Pe r r y Pa nts Wol f
Sweater Corne Gab ri el s
S hi r t Sja a k Hullekes Pa nts Lew Jac ket Seba st i c Sh o es Fre d Pe r r y
C heckered shir t Fred Per r y
S h i r t Fre d Perr y Trouse rs Lew
Photography Jolijn Snijders @ PAR31, Stylist Jordy Huinder Make up & Hair Carlijn @ BCREATIVES Models BOB & ARTYOM @ SKIN MODELS
STOCKISTS Story: “When you were young” Secastic Corne Gabriels Sjaak Hullekes via So Dutch Fashion 020 6170957 Fred Perry Lew Wolf via Ganbaroo 020 6885818 Yves Saint Laurant via www.yvessaintlaurant.fr
O R E H R E SUP 100
S E O R
photo by CRISTIAN BENZONI images MET NY, by DVICE