Summer Grilling

By Charlynn Fargo Ware

Grilling is one of the best things about summer – the smell of charcoal, the family times, the longer evenings, even fireflies. It is not just for holidays but a way to celebrate the everyday goodness of life.

On a special occasion or not, you are likely to find David Radwine, veteran Springfield chef, trained by the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, lighting his charcoal grill in preparation of a juicy, mouth-watering steak.

“We did have a meat cookery class at the CIA,” says Radwine. “Grilling was part of the curriculum. I still remember it. As long as the grill is not frozen shut, I do not let the weather stop me.”

He has applied the principles thousands of times in his career as a chef.

Whether it is a ribeye, New York strip or filet, flank steak or tri-tip, Radwine appreciates the value of beef, whether it is grass fed or corn fed, marinated or under a rub.

“The thicker the steak, the better the result,” he said. “I personally like my steak between rare and medium rare –with salt and pepper. Salt and pepper on a steak is pretty delicious on its own.”

Radwine starts by letting his steak “warm up” at room temperature for 30-45 minutes. Meanwhile, he will start his charcoal grill, which he prefers to gas, piling the lump charcoal to make a hot spot rather than spreading the coals evenly all around. His goal is to have a place to move the steak off to the side if a flare up occurs.

“It helps control the charring, if you can control the flare-up.”

He also recommends investing in a good quality thermometer like a Thermapen to tell when a steak is cooked to the desired temperature rather than going by color.

“It is going to look more done on the outside, so the thermometer will give you an accurate picture.”

There is a new way many restaurants now cook on a grill for a crowd. They do a reverse sear where they vacuum seal the steaks, put them in a water bath, then just before serving, sear them on a hot grill.

“If you like a rare steak, you can vacuum seal it in a 120-degree water bath, then take it out and sear it on both sides.”

He often serves a grilled steak with a garlicky South American chimichurri sauce – a bit like pesto – that usually includes parsley, garlic, vinegar and spices such as salt, pepper, oregano and red peppers in olive oil.

For cuts of meat such as flank steak, tri-tip or hanger steak, Radwine prefers a marinade of olive oil, minced fresh garlic, red wine, rosemary and Dijon mustard.

“The rosemary helps counter any negate aspects of charring,” he said. “And it tastes good. The red wine helps break down the protein and gives flavor.”

What to serve with grilled steak? Grilled asparagus or whatever vegetable is in season – utilize the fire you have going, he says – a good fresh salad with arugula and a vinaigrette, sliced tomatoes with basil and mozzarella and – if you are feeling like splurging – a gratin of sliced potatoes and garlic with cream poured over and baked until tender.

“Then take a 10-minute walk after dinner,” he laughs, “to balance everything out.” (Continued)

Here are some tips for the perfectly grilled steak:

• When marinating, a shorter time is best – 30 minutes to two hours – if the marinade has a lot of acid-rich citrus juice or vinegar. The smaller and more delicate the food, the shorter marinade time.

• After the charcoal is lit, you should not put food on the grill for the first 20 to 30-minutes. This helps to prevent flare-ups and scorching the food.

• Arrange the charcoal in the grill to be in the center of the grill or slightly off-center to one side. This will give you different heat zones on the grill. Areas of the grill further away from the coals will not be as hot.

• Pick a fresh sprig of rosemary, thyme, or another green herb from your garden. Place the fresh sprig directly on the charcoal. The green herb will produce an aromatic smoke that will add flavor to the meat.

• If you are using a charcoal grill, don’t splash water on the fire when it flares up. This will create a cloud of ash from the coals, which will catch the food on the grill. When a flare-up occurs, stay calm and simply move the food out of the area that has flared up and give it a minute to die down.

• Cook beef (and pork) over hot parts of the grill, only turning them two to four times before taking them off the grill. Rest the meat after taking it off the grill, and it will continue to cook for a few minutes, even though it is no longer on the heat.

• You can create a steak crust on a thicker cut by using high heat on the grill, coating with a dry rub and searing fast.

• To slice a skirt, flank or hanger steak, cut against the grain, in the opposite direction that the muscle fibers run.

• As you grill steak, pay attention to details. A few degrees can mean the difference between just right and over-cooked meat.

• Give steaks time to rest after cooking, at least three to five minutes after cooking. The resting process allows the juices to redistribute throughout the meat and improve flavor. It is best to let it rest uncovered so it does not steam and make the crust soggy.