VIE January / February 2014

NORTHWEST FLORIDA – COLA 2 COLA®

THE MEN’S ISSUE

FRANÇOIS BÉNARD: A RENAISSANCE MAN

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In this issue:

55

44

92 30

18

Feature The Dream of Life: François Bénard 44 Form & Function Back from the Dead: Dying Defender Finds Life off the Beaten Path 18 An Iconic Experience 30 Get Out Up Close and Personal 92 The Life Aquatic: Seeing is Believing 69 Wild about Tallahassee! Eat, Zip, Bike, Paddle, and Party 123

74

104

Voyager Playing Paris by Ear 104 Hiking China’s Great Wall of WOW! 84 The Art of Life The Full Spectrum: Charles Johnson Gallery 74 Couture The Men of Fashion Week 38 People + Places Pizitz Home and Cottage Celebrates Twenty-Five Years 120

Through the Lens Frozen in Time: Gilles Mingasson Photography 55 Giving Back From Beach to Bacchus: How Culture and Wine Are Shaping Communities 112

V IE Z INE .C OM | 11

COLA COLA

®

Primary Targeted Audiences

W

e are thrilled you have picked up a copy of VIE and hope you

enjoy reading about the people and places of our coveted region,

COLA 2 COLA®—Pensacola to Apalachicola. We live in a great place where life is good! We have a passion for our area and the people and businesses found here, and we hope that you will share in our excitement.

VIE can be found locally at Tourist Development Council centers, Chamber of Commerce locations, Sundog Books in Seaside, Florida, boutiques, restaurants, bed-and-breakfasts, and special events. VIE’s distribution has branched out to the following airports: Baltimore/Washington International, Houston Hobby, Memphis International, Nashville International, Orlando International, and Hartsfield–Jackson Atlanta International. In addition to these high-profile locations, VIE is also being added to the shelves of some of the country’s top-selling bookstores, newsstands, and supermarkets, giving our advertisers potential access to millions of people.

VIE is a registered trademark. All contents herein are Copyright © 2008–2014 Cornerstone Marketing and Advertising, Incorporated (The Publisher). All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without written permission from The Publisher. VIE is a lifestyle magazine and is published at least five times annually on a bimonthly schedule. The opinions herein are not necessarily those of The Publisher. The Publisher and its advertisers will not be held responsible for any errors found in this publication. The Publisher is not liable for the accuracy of statements made by its advertisers. Ads that appear in this publication are not intended as offers where prohibited by state law. The Publisher is not responsible for photography or artwork submitted by freelance or outside contributors. The Publisher reserves the right to publish any letter addressed to the editor or The Publisher. VIE is a paid publication. Subscription rates: Digital magazine (iPad only) – One-year $11.99; Two-year $17.99 / Printed magazine – One-year $23.95; Two-year $34.95 (U.S. Only – price includes free access to digital magazine versions for iPad). Subscriptions can be purchased online at www.VIEZINE.com.

On the Cover:

VIE Creative Team: Lisa Burwell Publisher lisa@viezine.com

Gerald Burwell Editor-in-Chief gerald@viezine.com

Bob Brown VP of Creative Services bob@viezine.com

Mary Jane Kirby Account Executive maryjane@viezine.com

Jordan Staggs Assistant Editor jordan@viezine.com

Scott Sajowitz Account Executive scott@viezine.com

Tracey Thomas Graphic Designer tracey@viezine.com

Julie Dorr Account Executive julie@viezine.com

Troy Ruprecht Graphic Designer troy@viezine.com

Margaret Stevenson Copy Editor

Bill Weckel Web/Project Manager bill@viezine.com

Shannon Quinlan Distribution Coordinator

Benjamin Rosenau Video Producer ben@viezine.com

The Most Interesting Man in the World The soulful eyes of poet and philosopher François

Tim Dutrow Videographer tim@viezine.com

Bénard reveal a story of fame, love, despair, and revelation. Captured beautifully at his Santa Rosa Beach, Florida, home by photographer Romona Robbins, François’s ruggedly handsome looks and fascinating

VIE Contributors:

tale of self-discovery made him a natural fit for VIE’s second Men’s Issue cover and feature article.

Contributing Writers: Sallie W. Boyles Kim Duke-Layden Demetrius Fuller N.S. Racheotes Mike Ragsdale Anne W. Schultz

Contributing Photographers:

Published by:

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Robert Barton Fernanda Calfat Makenzie Carter Lenny Chew Mike Coppola Robert Coveney Jon Deckert Peter Michael Dills Michael Dobson Kim Duke-Layden Demetrius Fuller Cynthia Garrard Jeff Garrard Greg Giovannelli Goode Green Photography Frazer Harrison “Peter” Cao Hongyuan

Charles Johnson John Layden Gilles Mingasson David Moynahan M. Timothy O’Keefe Romona Robbins Dawn Chapman Whitty

V IE Z INE .C OM | 13

Watch Responsibly.

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Publisher’s Note:

STAND

The photographic talent of Gilles Mingasson has been sought by name brands such as National Geographic, Discovery Channel, L’Équipe magazine, and numerous Fortune 500 corporations. Both captivating and moving, Gilles’s photography is the result of years spent scouring the corners of the world and capturing insights into the human condition. Take a pictorial adventure with Gilles in Anne Schultz’s story “Frozen in Time.”

MAN

BY YOUR

More than a few times in my life, I’ve pondered the adage “Behind a successful man, stands a woman.” As much as it has amused me to think that women can do it all or are owed most of the credit for the successes of their men, I must admit that it’s just not true. From my own personal experience, the same can be said about a man who stands by a woman. The balancing act of sustaining a close marital relationship while the husband and wife also work together is not an easy undertaking—it is an art unto itself. Most of all, it can bring great joy and satisfaction when success is achieved together or really hard times are overcome with each other’s support.

GERALD AND LISA BURWELL, Photo by Sheila Goode / Goode Green Photography

As our editor-in-chief, Gerald Burwell can be described as an unsung hero for the success of the magazine, now entering its seventh year. Attending to details, making subtle yet significant changes to photo selections and croppings (these actually make a big difference), and reworking articles until they are, well, just right, are all to his credit. We have an amazingly talented team here at VIE, but he does add the finishing touches and is the standard-bearer on our quest to perfection.

In our second annual Men’s Issue, it is appropriate to give accolades to men— all men. The saying “A happy wife is a happy life” is true, but a happy man is something else to behold. Respect and honor are due all the good men out there. The interesting, handsome, and introspective philosopher François Bénard ushers VIE into the New Year as our feature story and cover guy. We have endearingly mentioned throughout the office that he resembles “the Most Interesting Man in the World” from the Dos Equis commercials, but in reality, François really is the most interesting man. The genuine spirit and grace of this Renaissance man shine brightly in the story told by Scott Sajowitz.

Mike Ragsdale of 30A fame keeps adding great branding on top of great branding, and that isn’t easy—no matter how seamless he makes it all look. Please read about his latest addition to the overwhelmingly successful 30A brand as you meet “Truman,” his new mascot. Dawn Chapman Whitty beautifully captures Mike’s story through her lens, and Mike pens yet another flawless, humorous, and interesting story.

There are many more articles full of ideas, life experiences, and wonderment, so please sit back and enjoy!

In this New Year of 2014, I have heard many people echoing a similar mantra: “This is going to be a great year—the best is yet to come!” I love hearing this after so many years of people losing hope and walking through their lives in what can only be described as some weird sort of malaise. Waiting for the “old life” to come back, as a collective, we seem to be chanting the same message. Hope. Much has been lost in the past several years by so many, but there is nothing more sorrowful than the loss of hope. Because I believe in the power of words—and hope— I know it’s going to be a good year! As a team of people all invested in one another, we will make it over to the other side!

To my husband: Thank you for being my everything!

To life!

—Lisa

V IE Z INE .C OM | 15

back from the dead DYING DEFENDER FINDS LIFE OFF THE BEATEN PATH

MIKE RAGSDALE PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAWN CHAPMAN WHITTY BY

V IE Z INE .C OM | 19

I WAS INFECTED ON NEW YEAR’S EVE 2011.

It happened in a cave in Göreme, Turkey, a few hundred miles from the Syrian border. While our kids were busy Skyping with their friends back home (it was a very pleasant, Wi-Fi-enabled cave), Angela and I were throwing back shots of Turkish raki with Brandon and Julie Halstead, two friends from Alabama whom we hadn’t seen in nearly twenty years.

Snow dusted the surreal Tatooine-looking sand spires that surround the tiny town, and despite a strong temptation to toast the magic midnight hour in some local haunt, we instead bunkered into our stone lair for the night, determined to catch up on lost years.

I DID NOT KNOW THAT BRANDON WAS A CARRIER. Years before in Tuscaloosa, Brandon had quickly become my favorite college bartender. In fact, we had become such good friends that I eventually landed a tuxedoed role in Brandon and Julie’s wedding (sad testimony to just how much time I spent in bars).

Now a lieutenant colonel in the Air Force, Brandon had once been stationed in Turkey for three years.

(I assume he’s in the United States Air Force, but I neglected to ask that question.) When he saw on Facebook that our family was passing through the region on an around-the-world adventure, he knew that Göreme would make an ideal, if unlikely, spot for a long-overdue reunion.

Within the toasty confines of our cave hotel, it wasn’t long before Brandon pulled out his iPad and, beaming like a proud father, began flicking through photos of his baby: a 1985 Land Rover Defender 90 (“D-90”). Like contemporary cavemen telling stories around some technological campfire, we basked in the glow of his iPad screen, wildly gesturing, nodding, and grunting at vibrant images of colorful Defenders in distant lands.

Rover Porn, Julie called it.

20 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

I HONESTLY

DIDN’T EVEN KNOW WHAT

“DEFENDER”

A

WAS. AND YET I WAS

INSTANTLY

CAPTIVATED BY ITS CONFIDENT AIR OF ADVENTURE.

I’ve never been much of a car guy.

I honestly didn’t even know what a “Defender” was. And yet I was instantly captivated by its confident air of adventure. There was a shovel and a pickax fastened to his hood. A pick … and a shovel … on the hood.

This was Indiana Jones’s ride—or at least a strong Mario Kart contender.

THE INFECTION WAS INSTANT AND QUITE PAINFUL. Like some shady drug-dealing middleman, Brandon told me he “knew a guy” who found and fixed up ex-British military Defenders, and that importing one to the United States shouldn’t be a problem—that is, if we followed the precise legal steps that Brandon had painstakingly researched and refined over time. Perhaps it was the raki (an anise-flavored clear liqueur that turns milky white when mixed with water), but this all sounded perfectly reasonable to me. After all, Brandon isn’t just a lieutenant colonel, he’s a JAG—an air and space lawyer, but a lawyer nonetheless. I mean, surely importing a Defender into the United States couldn’t be as legally complicated as protecting orbit rights-of-way for international military satellites, could it? (Could it? I’m asking.)

A few days later we parted ways. Brandon and Julie returned to their home in Germany (I really need to pin down which military he serves), while our family moved on to India. As the weeks and months passed, however, I just couldn’t delete that explicit Rover Porn from my memory. I bookmarked Brandon’s Facebook page and stalked photos of his growing fleet of Landies like a teenage boy with an unhealthy crush. Like a carrier of some rampant zombie contagion, Brandon had now passed on his brain disorder to me.

Months later, our global circumnavigation complete, our family returned home to Scenic Highway 30-A, a hidden strand of quaint beach towns along Florida’s Gulf Coast. I’d sold my car before we left on our big trip, so now I found myself in dire need of transportation.

My fevered brain craved something uncomfortable, with no air conditioning or reclining seats. Or air bags. It needed to be radically unsafe.

It demanded a five-speed manual transmission, preferably on the wrong side.

Something that permanently reeked of sweat, oil, and diesel fumes. Something that consumed hard-to-find parts as if they were breakfast cereal. Something that would require months of restoration work, reams of bureaucratic paperwork, and some sort of financial partnership with a decent mechanic. You know— something practical.

SO I CALLED MY BARTENDER. In August 2012, Brandon e-mailed me the good news. He’d found an old D-90 in great shape, sitting dormant on some European military lot. He e-mailed me a few glimpses. While it appeared to be surrounded by countless other military vehicles, it looked very much alone. Abandoned. Forgotten.

The scant records showed that it was originally put into Ministry of Defense (MOD) service on August 29, 1986 (Registration ID: 61KF77). The last unit it served was the Royal Wessex Yeomanry, an armored regiment of the British Territorial Army.

It had probably never left the British mainland, which helped explain why it was in such good condition for its age. There was a 200Tdi (turbocharged direct injection) diesel engine under the hood, something that Brandon had painstakingly searched for.

V IE Z INE .C OM | 23

IKE L S G N I H T OPE AND R A I ADDED M S A L P

.D. B O .

L M 0 0 H 0 , S 2 I 1 T I A AR-MOUNTED BR A RE …

N WATER CA A SNORKEL ES. CH BONFIR A E B E S U O D TO AMPLY

DDED COOL. A S E K O W O D L T N I A BECAUSE TLY WELL, MOS

He was perfect. I was head-over-flip-flops in love. I committed quickly and completely, and like some messed-up Match.com mashup between man and machine, we began our long-distance bromance, exchanging photos and pleasantries.

But I knew that I couldn’t suffer my newfound condition alone. Deep down, like any self-respecting zombie, I knew that I had an obligation to infect others.

Fortunately, here in Florida’s Panhandle, I run 30A.com, a website that’s become a hub for fans of our gorgeous white-sand beaches and of the laid-back coastal lifestyle that locals enjoy here. Even though our town has only twelve thousand full-time residents, our 30A Facebook page alone has two hundred fifty thousand fans.

So I began sharing photos of my overseas love interest with thousands of friends and fans. I posted polls asking for advice on which features to add and which 24 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

customizations to make. Tens of thousands of people chimed in, all eager to help steer us in the right direction.

Directly because of that fan feedback, I added things like a twelve-thousandpound plasma rope winch, to help rescue any overzealous out-of-towners who got stuck in our sugary sand. I added a rear-mounted British MOD water can to amply douse beach bonfires. And we added a snorkel … well, mostly because it looks cool. We’re at the beach, so we decided to go topless, stripping off his tattered NATO-green canvas and adding a heavy-duty cage across the rear.

Then I asked fans what color I should paint him—but I simply couldn’t bring myself to go with their overwhelming first choice: “30A Blue.” Painting him Gulf of Mexico turquoise just didn’t seem true to his military heritage. Plus, out of the thousands of Facebook comments on this polarizing topic, one post in particular ricocheted around in my head like an errant artillery shell:

MIKE RAGSDALE AND DEFENDER "TRUMAN"

“Trust me,” he wrote. “If you paint it a girly color, it will never run right again.”

So, I made an executive decision and opted for their second-most-popular color choice: Sand (technically, “Light Stone” on the British MOD’s official color palette).

I even asked fans what we should name him. They came up with dozens of clever suggestions (Sandy, Sonny, Winston, etc.), but ultimately they voted for Truman, after our community’s most famous—if fictional—resident.

During those long desperate months of transatlantic restoration work, I did my best to ignore the Facebook chatter that said that I was “crazy” and that importing Defenders into the US was “impossible” because of our strict safety and EPA laws. I pretended not to notice things like the propaganda

MODELS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: BRIDGETTE MITCHELL, ASHLEY JOHNSON, SHANNON JOHNSON, KASIE PETIT, LOUIS PETIT

perpetuated by the US Department of Homeland Security or YouTube videos of Defenders being crushed upon entry.

And yet, despite a few nail-gnawing bureaucratic setbacks, Truman eventually cleared US Customs in Jacksonville and was ushered onto a flatbed truck. Then on March 29, 2013—after eight long months of waiting—Truman finally rolled into my driveway in Santa Rosa Beach, where he’ll enjoy the rest of his days basking in our Florida sunshine.

Retirement has been kind to Truman. He spends a lot of time on the beach and enjoys off-roading through our twenty-five thousand acres of pristine state forest.

He’s already become something of a local celebrity in our sleepy little beach town.

He loves posing for photos and riding in local parades. He enjoys frequent spa treatments at the garage. Like the bartenders of my youth, my mechanic is now my best friend. We spend a lot of quality time together. (I wonder if he has any wedding plans.)

The very first Land Rover—named HUE 166—rolled off the assembly line in 1948. Orville Wright and Gandhi both died that year, and Harry S. Truman was President. Jackie Robinson had recently become the first African American to play Major League Baseball, and Chuck Yeager had just broken the sound barrier.

Miracle on 34th Street was the big hit in movie theaters.

Sadly, this year, Land Rover officially announced the Defender Apocalypse: After nearly seventy years, the last Defender is slated to roll off the production line in December 2015. Its emissions are deemed unclean. Its aluminum shell is considered unsafe. Never mind that they’re safer than motorcycles or scooters and that recycling old cars is far better for the environment than crushing them in a landfill and then constructing something entirely new from scratch.

These icons of adventure and global exploration have fallen victim to emissions regulations, air bag requirements, and political correctness. There’s just not much room for Indiana Jones, Rick Blaine, Ernest Hemingway, or T. E. Lawrence in a world absorbed with hand sanitizer, carbon offset points, and water vapor cigarettes.

We’ve become averse to adventure and allergic to ourselves.

IS THIS THE DEATH OF THE DEFENDER? PERHAPS. But even if new Defenders will no longer be born into this increasingly risk-averse world, HUE 166’s intrepid spirit is simply too contagious to suppress. It’s a disease that cannot be cured. And those of us who have been infected will still be here— bringing old Defenders back from the dead, one at a time.

I T ’S O N E T H I N G T O M A K E A PAT I O. I T ’S Q U I T E A N O T H E R T O M A K E A S TAT E M E N T.

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AN ICONIC EXPERIENCE

BY SALLIE W. BOYLES PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY ICON AIRCRAFT

V IE Z INE .C OM | 31

If George Jetson were to travel back to 2014 in search of the coolest, safest vehicle he could buy for the pure pleasure of flying around in, he would, without question, land on the ICON A5.

Like a sports car with wings, the A5 has arrived to make the dreams of today’s grown-up kids come true like no other airplane of its kind.

Classified as a light-sport aircraft (LSA), a category first allowed by the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) in 2004, the A5 is a two-seater built for recreation yet fortified with cutting-edge operational features that do not exist in larger, more expensive private passenger planes.

By focusing on the ease of handling and the joy of flying while also raising the safety bar (some might say to the moon!) with NASA- and fighter jet–inspired features, ICON’s launch product has attracted keen buyers and investors from the United States and abroad.

In addition to seasoned pilots seeking easy, breezy fun in the sky, one-third of ICON’s early enthusiasts are new to the cockpit. All have decided that such a toy, which costs around $189,000, is well worth the money plus some patience. Currently, over a thousand custom orders are waiting for the final production prototype aircraft to demonstrate compliance and complete testing. The first delivery is estimated by the end of this year. If a buyer ordered today, the anticipated delivery would be late 2017. Once the production aircraft have been approved, prospective

32 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

buyers will be able to take test flights. Although offering international dealerships to a few candidates, ICON plans to manage US sales directly.

Without a doubt, a love of flying inspired its concept, but the nuts and bolts of the A5 did not materialize out of the clear blue. The desire to be an industry pioneer first struck ICON Aircraft founder and CEO Kirk Hawkins, a former U.S. Air Force F-16 pilot and an enthusiast of action sports from snowboarding to skydiving, when the FAA opened the LSA gateway.

“The freedoms provided to manufacturers by these new standards allow more innovation with less onerous, expensive, or unnecessary regulations,” Hawkins reveals.

With a BS degree in Mechanical Engineering from Clemson University, Hawkins served as director of engineering for an aerospace contractor before returning to Stanford University for a Master’s in Engineering.

That’s where he met his cofounder Steen Strand. Strand, who holds an MS in Product Design from Stanford and an AB in Economics from Harvard, is known for his design innovations, particularly in sports-related products, as well as for his asset management acumen.

At approximately $189,000, the LSA two-seater ICON A5 is chock-full of cutting-edge features not commonly found in larger, more expensive private aircraft, making it perfect for both the novice pilot and the experienced flying enthusiast.

Below: If the interior cabin of the ICON A5 looks more like that of a sports car than a state-of-the-art aircraft, there is a reason. Instead of an intimidating cluster, the flight instrumentation has been ergonomically designed to help reduce the stimulus load on the pilot. This makes for a safer and more enjoyable flying experience.

Above: (Left) ICON Aircraft founder and CEO Kirk Hawkins, a former USAF F-16 pilot, holds a BS degree in Mechanical Engineering from Clemson University. (Right) With an MS in Product Design from Stanford and an AB in Economics from Harvard, ICON Aircraft cofounder Steen Strand is particularly well suited for the position of COO.

The two formed the Southern California–based ICON Aircraft in 2005 with a shared sense of where they wanted to go: “How do we create a product that every time you interact with it, you fall in love with it?” poses Hawkins.

“You need to consider how cool it is, and how will I feel when I’m driving and flying,” says Steen. In short, sleek and fast. Interestingly, along with Jet Skis and other speedy means of travel, the A5’s concept boards depict a shark. Why a shark? “The shark is aggressive; it’s fast; it’s in the water,” explains Strand. “If you want to create this excitement, there needs to be a little attitude.”

To transform such ideas into a viable consumer product, they recruited a powerful team of aeronautical 34 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

Top Photo: Whether the surface happens to be a lake, an airport landing strip, or a grassy field, the amphibious ICON A5 is extremely versatile, requiring only five hundred to a thousand linear feet of space to land or take off.

Above: With folding wings and a maximum takeoff weight of 1,510 pounds, the A5 is as easy to transport as a twenty-foot center console sportfishing boat.

engineers and fabricators from Scaled Composites, a company founded by Burt Rutan, recognized for designing and building air and space vehicles. “I’m incredibly proud of our engineering and fabrication team,” says Hawkins, referring to the in-house experts and their strategic partners.

Collaborating with ICON, Lotus engineers contributed on structural design and on manufacturing processes.

Cirrus Aircraft, another key contributor, produces much of the composite airframe components. The depth of knowledge continues with ICON’s impressive board of advisors, such as former Boeing CEO Phil Condit.

From all indications, the investments in human capital and technology have paid off.

In many aspects, the A5 has been deemed a pleasure vehicle to rival a new Ferrari—only one that flies!

While still in the early testing stages, the ICON A5

became the talk of cable news and networks like the Discovery Channel. Some, nevertheless, would say that the A5’s success arrived when the 2009 Neiman Marcus Christmas Book featured the sporty plane as the annual fantasy gift. The ICON team, however, is decidedly proud of earning the renowned Red Dot Award for Product Design in 2010 among thousands of entries from around the world. The prestigious distinctions continue with the IDEA Gold Award for Transportation Design, IDEA’s People’s Choice Award, and the Gold Spark Award.

Awards aside, the company’s real satisfaction stems from building a remarkably safe amphibious twoseater consumer aircraft that virtually anyone with a driver’s license can learn to operate in less time than one might expect. “It changes the way you see the world,” says Hawkins. “You’re not sitting in an aluminum tube, crammed in a seat with a little window. We’ve taken

Made of lightweight, high-density carbon fiber, ICON A5s could become as commonplace for outdoor family fun as fishing boats, motorcycles, and ATVs.

something that’s historically been extremely technical and moved it into the consumer market with a great understanding of human beings and the human interface with great design and great engineering.”

In every aspect, ICON has turned the usually complex process of flying into a seemingly seamless act of nature.

Like a waterfowl, the amphibious LSA requires only five hundred to a thousand linear feet of space for takeoff and landing on water or ground, whether the surface happens to be a lake, an airport landing strip, or a grassy field. Also, similar to water skis or a small boat, the compact plane, with (optional) automatically folding wings, handily stores in the owner’s garage.

Conveniently, the sturdy pleasure craft—made of lightweight, high-density carbon fiber—also travels to and from the desired takeoff/landing spot on a custom trailer. The A5’s versatility further pertains to fuel. The plane’s Rotax engine runs on premium gas or aviation fuel, so operators can fill up the tank at the airport, the boat marina, or the gas station. For many owners, taking a Sunday

afternoon spin in the A5 becomes less involved than going out on a boat.

The element of ease further extends to licensing. The sport pilot license (SPL) necessary to take the controls of an A5 can be earned with a minimum of twenty hours of in-flight training. Incidentally, ICON offers on-site training that can be completed in two weeks for $3,000 to $4,000—half of the time and money invested for a traditional private pilot license. Although the SPL restricts operators, who must be seventeen years old, to flying in low altitudes (up to ten thousand feet), good weather, daytime, and uncongested airspace, the A5, which has a nonpressurized cabin and side windows that open, is meant for those very conditions, granting a true sense of freedom and control.

The A5 also delivers peace of mind through highly sophisticated yet intuitive controls with assurances that the greenest pilot will remain safely on course. According to a 2010 report by the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association Air Safety Institute, pilot-related factors account for 70 percent of

general aviation accidents; 41 percent of pilotrelated fatalities result from losing control when an aircraft stalls and spins. Stalls and spins occur at any height, but the concern increases in lower altitudes, where the pilot has less time to recover from a descent. Inexperience further escalates the risk. Consequently, while the FAA stipulates that LSAs must have spin-recoverable or spin-resistant mechanisms, ICON went above and beyond.

Opting for a preventative strategy, ICON engineered an intuitive angle-of-attack (AoA) gauge that measures real-time wing performance and reveals how much lift the wing can deliver before it stalls. Prominently positioned top and center among the other streamlined cockpit controls, the AoA uses green, yellow, and red indicators to provide immediate feedback: either all is well or corrective action is needed. Such displays are common in military aircraft, but otherwise virtually nonexistent in general aviation aircraft.

“Every fighter pilot in the world relies on the AoA to help them land, keep them safe from V IE Z INE .C OM | 35

unintended stalls, and max perform their aircraft,” says Hawkins, pointing out that such equipment should be in the hands of anyone, especially new pilots, flying small aircraft.

“Angle of attack is likely the single most important parameter that helps a pilot fly at all times, and yet this information has not been readily available in small planes,” says Hawkins. “Part of ICON’s mission is to produce one of the safest flight aircraft ever created; incorporating an intuitive AoA system in the A5 is just another example of that commitment.”

In addition to implementing gauges that track performance, ICON took NASA’s lead in designing a spin-resistant airframe that forces stalls to occur near the root of the wing. At the same time, the wing has a separation, enabling the outboard panels to continue flying and generating lift. As a result, before the stall can develop fully, the airframe remains controllable instead of spiraling out of control.

Over 360 tests have demonstrated the A5’s stability and controllability, establishing the model as the only production aircraft in history to demonstrate

compliance with the FAA’s full-envelope Part 23 spin-resistance standard.

ICON addresses another critical safety measure— navigational reliability—by equipping every A5 with a removable Garmin GPS. The portable feature lets pilots accomplish their flight planning and become familiar with the system, which is uniquely programmed for air travel, outside the cockpit. Once on board, the large display is readable in direct sunlight.

Offering every precaution, ICON also gives buyers the option of adding a parachute, which remains housed in the frame unless all else fails—or, more likely, if a new pilot loses nerve. The parachute deploys within three seconds and then takes the plane on a gradual descent that isn’t much faster than a parachuting individual would drop.

In many aspects, the A5 experience is laid-back; the ICON team uses the word “docile” to describe the way it maneuvers. This aircraft takes off and lands at forty-five miles per hour, and reaches a maximum airspeed of 138 miles per hour (or 120 knots). If

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the wings touch water while in motion, they are designed to skim off the surface rather than dig into the water. Fear is not a factor, but thrill seekers are duly rewarded by the views and sense of freedom.

“For everyone who has kept the faith, remained a great wingman, and waited patiently for the A5,” promises Hawkins, “you’re going to get the most amazing sport aircraft ever created.”

In the meantime, without leaving home, wannabe George Jetsons of all ages can test fly the A5 over the skies of Hawaii’s Big Island with Microsoft Flight.

The downloadable, simulated adventure is not only liberating, but also free of charge!

For sales information on the ICON A5, please visit their website at www.iconaircraft.com or contact the company’s sales department at (424) 201-3505.

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MEN OF FASHION WEEK

BY JORDAN STAGGS

The words “fashion week� certainly conjure visions of high heels clicking across the Lincoln Center plaza, designer gowns floating down runways, and perfectly made-up faces sitting front row to witness it all. But as VIE has seen in our six years of experience, the gentlemen make a big impact on the fashion scene, from the minds behind the designs, the models that wear them, and the celebrities, athletes, and media there to experience the high energy inside Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and to see what will be in style for the next season. Gents like to look good, too, after all.

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The Spring 2014 runway shows at New York Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week were largely dominated by women’s clothing, but menswear still packed a powerful punch. Designers such as Chris Cox of Nautica’s Black Sail collection and former J. Crew creative director Todd Snyder proved once again that form, function, and comfort are key when creating stylish clothes for men. And while some of the runway looks for women might be overtly glamorous or even a bit “out there,” many males are the creative geniuses behind the gowns, blouses, and stilettos on the catwalk.

Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Zac Posen, and other renowned designers came out to take their bows after models showed their beautiful and artistic collections, all of them looking stylish but keeping it simple in classic suits, blazers, or even jeans. Sometimes less really is more, fellas.

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1. NAUTICA BLACK SAIL COLLECTION, Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images 2. TODD SNYDER, Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images 3. DESIGNER TOMMY HILFIGER, Photo by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images 4. TODD SNYDER, Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images 5. NAUTICA BLACK SAIL COLLECTION, Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images 6. DESIGNER RALPH LAUREN, Photo by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images 7. PROJECT RUNWAY JUDGES HEIDI KLUM, ZAC POSEN, NINA GARCIA, AND KERRY WASHINGTON, Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images V IE Z INE .C OM | 39

Star Style

CELEBRITIES CAPTURED ON CAMERA AT MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK SPRI N G 2014 SHOW // Photography by Mike Coppola/Getty Images

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The Dream of Life

By SCOTT SAJOWITZ Photography by ROMONA ROBBINS

“Everything you need to know in life is in you ... it just needs to be awakened.”

A journeyman on the path of self-realization shares his colorful past as a child in Madagascar, his trials and tribulations as a Hollywood actor, and the path that led him to a spiritual and philosophical reawakening.

A modern-day Renaissance man, François-Marie Bénard possesses many talents as an accomplished actor, artist, writer, and poet. But ask the man himself what truly defines him and you might find an uncommon answer. Having studied Hindu, Buddhist, and other Oriental philosophies, François prides himself on being a spiritual philosopher first and foremost. Using poetry as his preferred medium, François reflects on the truths he has learned through life, love, and spirituality. He has written over two thousand poems, which are often autobiographical, sometimes capturing the splendor of a childhood in Madagascar, other times recollecting the adventures of a world traveler—and François’s adventures are certainly worth listening to.

“Paradise” is how François describes his childhood home off the coast of Madagascar. His ancestors, part of the French royal family, had fled there to escape the French Revolution. Living there, François experienced the purity of nature at a young age.

With most of his days filled by traversing the jungles of the island and his nights spent gazing at the stars in an unobstructed sky, it was on this virgin island that his spiritual connection germinated. Without the distractions of television or radio, his mind was free to experience life without restraints.

François often looks back to reflect upon the sixteen years he spent on that island and considers it a time that has defined his life considerably. “In a beautiful place where there is no greed and lust, you are totally confronted with beauty, nature, and peace,” he explains.

“Our minds were unpolluted. We connected with the divinity of our souls. We were in constant harmony and it reinforced the person I would become.”

Culture shock is not a strong enough term to describe François’s reaction to society when his family immigrated to France after Madagascar’s provisional government ended in 1959. Due to the mass influx of immigrants into France at that time, his family was unwelcome in the country. His inability to understand the resentment against his family brought a bitterness to François that went against the principles of love he had come to know and to live by. “I was not at home,” he says. “I was miserable; I felt alone. I walked the streets aimlessly as though I was abandoned to the world. But what it did was open my soul to find solace in my dream.”

Gone

I was born in a time that is gone, I was born in a world that was free…

Innocence ruled those days like a swan, And children of Heaven had the key… ams, With lagoons, deep forests and wild stre My island was happy in the sun… ams, It was there that I dreamed my first dre It was there I grew up as God’s Son! days?

Where on earth have you gone, blissful What are you but waning memories…?

All I see is a world that decays!

All I have is unsolved mysteries!

V IE Z INE .C OM | 45

François turned to the realm of cinema as his form of escape. Capturing his sense of wonder in the same way that Madagascar had done, Hollywood stars such as Gary Cooper, Charlton Heston, and Rock Hudson became his idols; he knew his destiny lay in film. Fascination turned to inspiration, eventually leading François to take on side jobs as a reporter, a photographer, and an assistant director to get his foot in the door to become an actor. While he was working for renowned Spanish artist Salvador Dalí, an opportunity arose that would give François a chance to pursue his destiny in New York City.

In the Big Apple, François’s path led him to many small acting roles that built his confidence and led to larger roles. They also led him to his wife (also an actor), and eventually the couple decided to relocate to Hollywood in pursuit of greater acting opportunities. There François got his big break—

I was playing,” he admits. “I wanted to be the next Steve McQueen or Gary Cooper. I wanted to be in movies, not soap operas.” It was difficult to give up the seductive life of an actor, but the duplicitous and manipulative nature of the industry drove François down a far more meaningful path.

With the support of his wife, François cut ties with Hollywood and moved to a Colorado ranch they nicknamed “Renaissance”—a reflection of the rebirth they had both accepted into their lives. With his wife, his dog, his horse, and his Winchester, François finally found the peace he was so desperately seeking. It was at Renaissance that he was able to reignite his passion for writing and take time to understand his purpose in life. “I was meant to go through this, to taste the glamour but not to be hooked enough to it, that I could still escape,” he says. “Fame, money, and possessions are fleeting, and to cling to them only results in

“I realized none of that had ever brought me happiness, and nothing else before had brought me peace of mind.” he shared the screen with Rock Hudson in a role on the television series McMillan & Wife. François found that his European flair was a hit with Hollywood writers and directors, and it was in that genre that he continued to find steady work on shows such as Charlie’s Angels, Falcon Crest, and The Young and the Restless, among many others. Hobnobbing with celebrities, playing tennis matches with legends such as Björn Borg, and attending parties with A-listers such as Sylvester Stallone became his new reality.

It wasn’t until the glamour of Tinsel Town started to wear off that François came to realize he needed to make a change in his life. Jaded by the vicious circle of constraining studio contracts, along with the typecasting that can condemn a soap star to monotonous roles, François was no longer happy. “I hated the characters

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misery. I realized none of that had ever brought me happiness, and nothing else before had brought me peace of mind.”

Taking advantage of his newfound solitude, François began writing screenplays and poems while also developing his philosophical beliefs. “I was on a path of self-realization, which can be an isolating experience and one that not many would choose for themselves,” he says. His principles hark back to the simple, spiritual truths that he once knew as a child in Madagascar: “Self-discovery is the reason we are here on this earth. We are here to awaken and to find out who we really are. Look upon yourself as no better or worse than anyone else and try to achieve oneness

There Is a Place in Me

about.

There is a place in me that no one knows no doubt, There is a place in me, in which there is no fear‌ No guilt, no sin, no shame, no bitterness, loud and clear.

There is a place in me where God speaks ed and lust, When in the outside world I hear of gre of trust, In that place of silence He speaks to me rance‌ He speaks of love and forgiveness, of tole e.

In that place of silence, I find deliveranc be free, I have searched all my life for a place to .

Only to find it here, buried inside of me

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“The only thing that matters is that we continue to grow through life and live without fear of failure, judgment, or even death.�

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with God and nature. Understand that material possessions are not the root of happiness and mean absolutely nothing in your spiritual journey through life; they are only an illusion. The only thing that matters is that we continue to grow through life and live without fear of failure, judgment, or even death.

Once we release ourselves from those fears, we are free to embrace our own destiny.”

François insists that these truths are not things he can teach but are already inside each and every person.

All he wants to do is awaken them.

François-Marie Bénard has two poetry books currently available: The Dream of Life, a guided autobiographical look at the journey of his life; and The Thread of Love, a collection of love poems inspired by his wife of thirty-seven years. For more information or to purchase a copy, you can e-mail BenardEnterprises@mchsi.com or find his books on Amazon.com. François resides with his wife, Jo Ann, in Santa Rosa Beach, Florida. As a cofounding member of the Emerald Coast Philosophical Society, he speaks at their monthly meetings and loves to inspire others to find their way on the path to self-discovery.

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V IE Z INE .C OM | 55

Photo on opening page: Bonifacio, Corsica Current page: Local train, near Hiroshima Opposite page: Conques, France

L

ook through the viewfinder and focus.

Now steady the camera and click. Voila!

An image is captured, a moment immortalized. “Frozen in time,” says celebrated French photojournalist Gilles Mingasson, referring to the way photography stops time and allows viewers to see something they might otherwise miss in the hustle and bustle of everyday life. With his Canon 5D Mark III camera and Canon 24–70mm lens, Mingasson sets a specific moment aside and frames it for viewers to scrutinize, look at more closely, and see something they’ve never noticed before. “In spite of being constantly bombarded by images from TV,

movies, and other technology, society remains fascinated with still pictures,” he observes.

For twenty years, Mingasson has traveled the globe in pursuit of places and people to photograph, using images instead of words to tell a story. His soul-stirring, affective photos have earned him assignments in Asia, Australia, India, North Africa, Europe, Latin America, and the Caribbean. Many of his clients are prestigious and include the likes of National Geographic Books, Time, the Smithsonian, Paris Match, the Discovery Channel, BBC America, BBC Worldwide, Scripps, Microsoft, Target, and Nike.

It all started with a passion “to travel and shoot,” Mingasson says. As a teenager growing up in Grenoble, France, he loved looking at pictures in magazines and thought photography would be “a great way to work and travel.” Right after high school, he took off for Paris, where the country’s major magazines were headquartered. He hooked up with a friend who worked as a journalist and became surrounded by cinematic photographers who shared tips and provided feedback on his work. In time, he was published by telling stories that no one else covered—with his camera. “The subtle yet powerful style of National Geographic photos appealed

“ I N S P I T E O F B E I N G C O N S TA N T LY B O M B A R D E D B Y I M A G E S F R O M T V, M O V I E S , A N D O T H E R T E C H N O L O G Y , S O C I E T Y R E M A I N S FA S C I N AT E D W I T H S T I L L P I C T U R E S .”

V IE Z INE .C OM | 57

V IE Z INE .C OM | 59

J U S T T H E R I G H T L I G H T O R F O R W E AT H E R C O N D I T I O N S T O C H A N G E .”

“ Y O U H AV E T O B E V E R Y P A T I E N T , S O M E T I M E S W A I T I N G H O U R S F O R

“ O N C E P E O P L E H AV E L O O K E D A T S O M E T H I N G , T H E Y CAN’T DENY IT EXISTS, AND PERHAPS IT HELPS THEM T H I N K D I F F E R E N T L Y A N D C O M P E L S T H E M T O A C T. ” to me and influenced my work,” he shares. “I’ve also admired and been influenced by the photographic work of Henri Cartier-Bresson, David Alan Harvey, James Nachtwey, and Alex Webb.”

An assignment in the San Fernando Valley about children from middle-class families involved in street gangs was what first opened the door to Mingasson’s photojournalism career. Things really took off in 1990 when he spent six months bicycling 7,500 miles across the Soviet Union toting two cameras. There he photographed ordinary people who had lived their entire lives under the Soviet regime.

Gamma, an influential photojournalism agency in

Paris, distributed the work worldwide to officially launch his career. Along the way, Mingasson fell in love with Los Angeles and moved there—and remains there today—at the time taking odd jobs as a house painter and construction worker until he sold enough photographs to become self-supportive.

Capturing the layered, multidimensional, and evocative images a professional strives for calls for far more perseverance, endurance, and patience than what’s required with the amateur pointand-shoot approach to photography, Mingasson explains. “You have to be very patient, sometimes waiting hours for just the right light or for weather

This is the Time to Switch

conditions to change,” he says. “Sometimes you take dozens of shots of the same subject to capture the perfect one. When you’re photographing people, you need to give them enough time to open up. I like to hang around waiting until I like something. I’m constantly observing what’s happening, picking up little moments that make the story. Also, it takes the right personality. People need to trust you and see you’re genuine and respectful before they open up.

It also helps to be curious and interested in them.”

Comments by Marco Gandásegui, the executive vice president of Ancon Expeditions (Panama’s premier ecotravel company) make it clear that Mingasson treats everyone in the same respectful way. “He

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Above: Farmer, Russian plains Below: Kuna Indian, San Blas, Panama

is not only a top-notch photographer, but a real gentleman as well,” Gandásegui says after working with Mingasson during his two-month assignment in Panama for National Geographic.

“Not only do you have to determine the essence of a story, but also make the image visually stimulating and interesting,” Mingasson shares. “Like most professional photographers, I prefer early morning and late afternoon—around dusk—when the light brings out color and creates interesting contrasts. Cloudy days make for a more moody scene. I use things like tree branches and other vertical or horizontal elements to create linear dimensions that make interesting visual layers. Sometimes I walk around a subject to see what works from different angles and perhaps bring attention to something in the background.” For example, in a picture of a Kuna Indian, an indigenous people in Panama, he highlighted the colorful strands of beads wrapped around the subject’s legs by taking the photo of her standing beside a vertical post on a boat dock.

Mingasson says he often feels like a public servant using photography to stir public awareness. “Once people have looked at something, they can’t deny it exists, and perhaps it helps them think differently and compels them to act,” he says. “You never know who might help. One of my exhibits showing the effects of global warming on a disappearing village in Alaska opened at the Field Museum in Chicago.

It was attended by lots of movers and shakers. One shook my hand and told me how much he was moved by my work. That is a rare time when you actually get feedback from someone exposed to your pictures, and you think maybe they served a purpose beyond the fascinating personal adventure of discovering and shooting Eskimo culture. Maybe in his professional life, that man will do something about global warming.” The story about the Alaskan village—titled The End of Shishmaref—was also exhibited at the Nobel Peace Center in Oslo, Norway, and his personal project, Latino USA, won an American Photography Award in 2005.

Confessing that his insatiable curiosity keeps his work eclectic, Mingasson says, “In some ways that’s a drawback—if you specialize, you’re really well known, and it’s easier for magazines to find you.

But I’m fascinated by every story. Like now, I’m very interested in a story about fracking that I’m covering in North Dakota for a French magazine studying the issue, and I recently photographed the largest solar farm in the world, located in the Mojave Desert. That was amazing, as it could power a city of 140,000 homes.”

Whatever he shoots, Mingasson captures the essence of life, whether it’s nature’s awesome power and raw energy or the unfolding story of humanity, such as an indigenous culture struggling to maintain traditions against the swelling tide of modernity.

What if Gilles Mingasson had ignored the call or hadn’t mustered up enough courage to follow his youthful passion “to travel and shoot”? What a loss for humanity that would have been. His life inspires

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N AT U R E ’ S AW E S O M E P O W E R A N D R AW E N E R G Y O R T H E U N F O L D I N G S T O R Y O F H U M A N I T Y. . .

W H AT E V E R H E S H O O T S , M I N G A S S O N C A P T U R E S T H E E S S E N C E O F L I F E , W H E T H E R I T ’S

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Shishmaref, Alaska

More photography by Gilles Mingasson will be featured in an ecotravel story on Panama by Anne Schultz in the upcoming VIE – March/April 2014. To learn more about Gilles Mingasson and to see a large sampling of his talent, please visit www.Mingasson.com.

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From canoeing and kayaking to stand-up paddleboarding, there’s no doubt that the Emerald Coast knows how to paddle. But as Gregory “Gio” Giovannelli and his wife, Silvia, are showing locals in the area, and even people around the world, there’s a new way to paddle—and the difference is clear.

The concept stemmed from a desire to up the ante on stand-up paddleboards, Gio explained. “We tried everything, all kind of materials,” he says. “But in the end, achieving the right buoyancy for a clear paddleboard just wasn’t possible.”

That’s where Clear Blue Hawaii’s polycarbonate Molokini kayak came in. Gio and Silvia worked with the company to form Klear Kanoo and have become the exclusive United States retailer of the Molokini clear boat design. Klear Kanoos are made of durable Lexan—the same polycarbonate material used in bulletproof glass and fighter jet canopies—creating a window to the world beneath the waves.

Each Kanoo costs $2,350 and comes equipped with a stable rudder system, two adjustable paddles, and two detachable seats with lumbar support for a comfortable cruise—and it weighs only thirty-nine pounds. “Anybody can Kanoo,” Silvia adds. “Any age, any skill level—that’s another thing that sets this boat apart from other paddling experiences. It’s perfect as a birthday gift, a great amenity to offer with your beach rental house, and to enjoy with the entire family.”

Of course, the clear design is an eye-catcher as well. Gio and Silvia are often seen around the Destin, Miramar Beach, and 30-A areas in their delivery truck or

“Everybody gets excited when they see it.

It’s so unique to our area and we want to become a household name.”

“Klear Kanoo Mobile” with a boat strapped on top, drawing the eyes of locals and visitors as they go by. “The smiles and the looks we get are great,” Gio says with a grin. “Everybody gets excited when they see it. It’s so unique to our area and we want to become a household name.” The Kanoo Mobile is emblazoned with Gio and Silvia’s Klear Kanoo logo, showing a kayak shape with a fish underneath.

“We came up with the logo one night and still have all the sketches on napkins from that evening.”

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The Klear Kanoo’s true calling, though, is in the crystal clear water. Easy to lift and deposit into any lake, creek, or bay—or the Gulf of Mexico itself— the boat makes a terrific alternative to snorkeling.

Users appear to be gliding along the top of the water on nothing at all.

“You can watch the fish eat your hook right beneath you,” Gio says. He delights in telling his favorite Klear Kanoo story: “We were driving to the beach one day with the Kanoo and drove by a little turtle in the road. I stopped and helped him along his way.

A few hours later, about a four-and-a-half-foot sea turtle came up right underneath us in the Kanoo!”

The sea turtle “played” with Gio and Silvia for a while, even popping his head above the water as if to say hello, then swam slowly right under the Klear Kanoo, allowing for a pretty incredible photo op.

“The boat even magnified the turtle,” Silvia marvels.

“He was about five feet down but looked like he was right beneath us.” Gio calls the experience “Turtle Karma,” saying, “Right next to us was a couple in a regular kayak—the difference was very clear.”

“The feeling of being on the water and seeing it all around you, wildlife or not, is just magical,” Silvia says wistfully. It’s the couple’s goal to share this experience with the Emerald Coast and beyond. They began distributing their first shipment of Klear Kanoos in summer 2013 and have sold boats in Guam, and the United Arab Emirates. But it’s the local community that Gio believes will benefit most from the Klear Kanoo experience. “I like helping other people enjoy our area and helping them remember why we moved here in the first place,” he explains.

Photo by G

reg Giovann

elli

Silvia moved to the Emerald Coast in 1998 and met Gio while he was on a business trip in 2008.

He moved from Texas to Miramar Beach and they married about a year later. Silvia is a broker and agent with ResortQuest Real Estate, and Gio is also a consultant for Direct Builder Supply, a custom millwork supply company specializing in antique timbers and beams. “We both have our other jobs, but this is the fun job,” Silvia jokes.

This business-minded power duo admits that the absolute satisfaction of each Klear Kanoo customer is key. The boats are stocked and ready to deliver from the warehouse in Miramar Beach. “When we get an order for a boat, we personally shine it up, put a bow on it, and deliver it,” Gio says. “We want customers to be very, very happy when we leave, and we always follow up with a thank-you card and a gift of Klear Kanoo T-shirts, stickers, and shining wax. Each buyer becomes part of our Klear Kanoo family.”

Celebrating 10 Years! www.SoWal.com advertise@SoWal.com 850-231-0102 72 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

Plans for expansion are in the works for Gio and Silvia, who hope to open Klear Kanoo retail stores on Highway 30-A and Highway 98. They also hope to add some beach rental companies to their offerings. With talk of the South Walton Artificial Reef Association creating sustainable artificial reef systems near Grayton Beach and in the Choctawhatchee Bay, there may never be a better time for locals to add a Klear Kanoo to their paddling collection.

For more information, visit www.klearkanoo.com, call (850) 502-6126, or like Klear Kanoo on Facebook.

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ARTIST CHARLES JOHNSON AND JACKSON, THE GALLERY MASCOT PHOTO BY JON DECKERT

The Full SpecT rum

gall ery Sallie W. Boyles Artists flourish when certain elements—light, color, nature, architecture, lifestyle, and attitude, to name a few—blend to produce just the right composition for creative expression. Drawn to places that are beautiful, rich in character, and conducive to meditative thought, artistic souls have understandably gravitated to Montmartre in Paris and to the Taos art colony in New Mexico—so why not the Miracle Strip Parkway in Fort Walton Beach, Florida?

The fact that the fine arts flourish in Northwest Florida is only natural. Like many coastal areas, the region offers breathtaking vistas plus a pace of life that compels one to take time to notice, reflect, and react.

Even so, the touristy part of Fort Walton Beach, better known for its airbrushed T-shirts than for

serious art, is not especially seductive to collectors— at least, not until they take a closer look. Ironically, what’s authentic to the area—including a funky beachcomber vibe that sees nothing odd in the symbiotic relationships of tattoo parlors, bars, and a full-fledged ballet academy (the Northwest Florida Ballet)—is precisely what has enticed artist Charles Johnson to establish his gallery/studio on the block.

The fact that the tattoo artist and the official photographer for the ballet are both represented in his gallery should indicate that Johnson is not just another guy peddling seascapes.

Twice invited to photograph New York Fashion Week, Johnson is a photographer, painter, and sketch artist who has personally created and seen a broad spectrum of art. He grew up in a military family on the move, so besides having lived in Arizona,

Kansas, Maryland, Florida, Ohio, and Germany (where he attended high school), Johnson has traveled extensively. “Living in Germany and traveling Europe exposed me to different styles of architecture, painting, cultures, and customs,” he says. “Many of the experiences from my travels have developed into imagery I’ve incorporated into my works; in some cases, the entire composition will be taken from one scene or experience.”

More than influencing an occasional painting, Johnson reveals that a particular trip to the Cinque Terre in Italy so profoundly changed his perspective that he launched an artistic movement called Spectrumism. “For a deep admirer of art,” he says, describing his epiphany, “there is nothing quite like walking through a museum and being stopped in your tracks by your favorite painting.”

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THE UNIQUE COLLECTION OF ARTISTS AT CHARLES JOHNSON GALLERY REPRESENTS THE FULL SPECTRUM OF ART CREATED IN VARIOUS MEDIUMS. PHOTO BY ROMONA ROBBINS

“Many of the arTists in the gallery hadn’t previously meT one another, and their ability to connect haS been powerful...There’s underStanding oF the process and the mechanicS, so there are many opportunities for us to bounce ideas off one another.”

The concept of Spectrumism is shown more easily through his work than by a definition, but Johnson explains that he aims to challenge artists to evoke contrasting viewpoints, rather than to portray a subject narrowly. In that effort, he urges them to use both full ranges of color and gray scales to convey whatever emerges.

Johnson points to an ambitious work he began five years ago and recently completed. Measuring forty-nine inches wide by ninety-three inches tall, the composite of watercolor, acrylic, and charcoal tells a story of falling in and out of love. “It

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acknowledges the connection between being carried away by love and trying to build a relationship,” says Johnson. “The painting also realizes the biological versus emotional reasons for love and relationships.”

Despite his complex ideas and executions, Johnson’s work is rooted in some basics he learned over summers spent with relatives in Kansas. Besides observing his grandmother lay out quilt designs in her studio, he took drawing lessons from his great-aunt in form, rendering, shading, and composition. At seventeen, he abandoned painting and all use of color for one year to focus on drawing.

“I had to improve my drawing ability,” explains Johnson. “There were subjects that I wanted to paint effectively, but I recognized that I wouldn’t be able to attempt those projects until I perfected the fundamentals.”

Johnson not only takes a studied approach to his own work, but also loves to exchange ideas with other artists. “He’d rather teach than work,” suggests Robert Barton, the first artist to have a solo show at the Charles Johnson Gallery. Employed by the Northwest Florida Ballet as its official photographer and, curiously, its building maintenance manager, Barton is further respected for his drawings, oil paintings, and illuminated collages featuring religious themes. As Johnson’s longtime friend, he adds, “Charles has always collected artists,” meaning that Johnson thrives on bringing fellow artists into his world and facilitating their friendships with one another.

“Many of the artists in the gallery hadn’t previously met,” Johnson affirms, “and their ability to connect has been powerful.” Twenty-four artists are currently

part of the gallery’s collection. “As different as one work of art is from another,” he continues, “they all fit in the gallery, and we artists all feel that we belong in the same company. There’s an understanding of the process and the mechanics, so there are many opportunities for us to bounce ideas off one another.”

Part of the gallery is studio space that Johnson makes available to the others, further fostering a collaborative environment. As Barton says, “It’s more like a dorm room; people are always in there drawing.” Confiding that he finds “all the young kids inspiring,” Barton, like Johnson, has assumed a mentoring role. “I was trained in more old-school techniques that prepare a painting to last a hundred years,” Barton explains. “Kids today take a piece of plywood and start painting. I do feel that I can offer a lot of knowledge.”

While Barton is the senior artist at Charles Johnson Gallery, Jonathan Taylor, in his early twenties, is the junior. While also holding a full-time job, he spends many of his spare hours in the studio area working.

“It’s a very chill environment,” Taylor says, relaying that he can put over two hundred hours into one piece. Taylor’s preferred mediums are charcoal, graphite, and pen and ink.

LITTLE BLUE-HAIRED GIRL BY ROBERT BARTON V IE Z INE .C OM | 77

“As different aS one work of art is from another, they all fiT in The gAllery, and we artiSts all feel thAt we belong in the Same company. There’s An understAnding of The procesS and the Mechanics, so there are many opportunitieS for us to bounce ideas off one another.”

Johnson’s decision to open a gallery began with an urge to move his studio out of his house. At the same time, he says, “I couldn’t open a studio and not tell my friends.” For a period, Johnson lived in Ohio, where he opened a gallery with a functioning studio. “It was great having a space away where I could work,” says Johnson. “I also found that my work sold better when people could see the mess, the process of the painting. For someone who doesn’t paint, the ability to be part of that gives them a stronger connection to the piece.”

Ultimately, that’s his purpose: nurturing connections that place quality pieces of original art in the hands of collectors and, likewise, giving worthy artists the opportunity to make a living with their craft. Exposure is critical to that equation, so Johnson is adding thirty feet of wall space to the gallery, enough to showcase an additional 150 works of art. He’ll also have enough room to feature one artist at a time on a rotation system.

A Charles Johnson Gallery catalog, primarily marketed to other galleries and interior designers around the country, is also in the planning stages.

Along with promoting one-of-a-kind pieces, Johnson wants to help artists earn residual income from their originals by creating giclées, or highquality reproductions, while delivering affordable fine art to resellers and private buyers.

Most of all, he encourages and welcomes people to visit the gallery for the firsthand experience.

WASHINGTON BEACH BY CHARLES JOHNSON

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PHOTO TAKEN BY CHARLES JOHNSON AT THE LUCA LUCA SHOW DURING FALL 2009 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK AT THE PLAZA HOTEL. 80 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

PORTRAIT OF EDGAR ALLAN POE BY GARY “LINK” WHITE PHOTO BY ROMONA ROBBINS

“In this small gallery, which is about the size of a three-car garage, we have a tremendous amount of diversity—watercolor, acrylic, oil, photography, illumination collages, folk art; the styles and subjects could not be more varied,” says Johnson. “When first-time visitors come in, they’ll often ask, ‘Did you paint all of these?’ I’ll tell them, ‘No, there are actually twenty-four artists here,’ and then I’ll walk them around.”

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Official hours at Charles Johnson Gallery are Tuesday through Saturday from 11:00 a.m. until 9:00 p.m., but the lights are often on well past midnight. A representation of the full collection is also viewable online at www.charlesjohnsongallery.com.

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Hiking China’s Great Wall of

WOW! STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY KIM DUKE-LAYDEN

As I walked along the maze of unfamiliar twists and turns, I felt disoriented. It was pitch black when I arrived in China the night before, bleary-eyed after two days of traveling. The chilly, dimly lit corridors opened out onto a stone courtyard dotted with tables and chairs. Above, cheerful crimson-and-gold pumpkin-shaped lanterns hung from the carved, colorfully painted eaves of the 250-year-old villa tucked away inside one of old Beijing’s traditional hutongs (alleyways). At the reception desk, the same young, friendly faces that initially greeted me hours before pointed me in the direction of the cozy dining room where my first wow! of the day awaited.

The breakfast spread at the überatmospheric Double Happiness Courtyard Hotel (www.hotel37.com) was a mixed cornucopia of Eastern and Western foods.

Several intriguing items piqued my curiosity: “salted duck eggs,” “eight-treasure pickles,” and “honey sweet ear candy”—from this last item’s brownish color and auricular shape, I couldn’t discern whether the English translation was literal or figurative. But, hey, it was my first time in China, and I was about to hike the “Seventh Wonder of the Medieval World”—on Thanksgiving Day to boot! I figured, “Go big or go home.” So, I threw caution to the wind and dug my chopsticks into the cryptic “ear candy,” along with delicious dumplings, beef stir-fry, sticky rice with scrambled eggs, bok choy, and a plethora of sweet and savory pastries.

During breakfast, I met Joe, a thirty-something software manager from Boston who coincidentally was the only other person booked on my morning’s excursion with Great Wall Hiking (www.greatwallhiking. com). Promptly at eight, our English-speaking tour

guide, Peter, and our driver, Jiang, arrived to drive us two hours northeast of Beijing (pronounced Bay-zhing), where we would tackle one of the Great Wall’s wildest and most challenging hikes. During the drive, Peter told us about China’s most iconic and visited site, which is the longest man-made structure in the world. The Great Wall has also been described as an undulating 5,500-mile dragon that snakes across China’s northern territory, extending from the eastern mountains to the Gobi Desert.

that you see today were constructed during the prolific Ming Dynasty, which lasted from AD 1368 to AD 1644. For the next several centuries, farmers pillaged the wall for building materials and nearly demolished it. Not until China’s tourism increased in the second half of the twentieth century did the Chinese government intervene and begin protecting its most iconic asset. In the 1950s and 1980s, reconstruction occurred on several of the Great Wall’s most visited segments near Beijing, such as Mutianyu and Badaling, the latter famous for Nixon’s visit and as the finishing site for road cycling in the 2008 Olympics.

We trekked the Jiankou–Mutianyu portion of the Great Wall, which is known as one of the steepest, most dangerous segments and is only accessible with a licensed guide. Our five-hour hike began near a small farm nestled at the base of a frost-covered mountain. As we tramped, my frigid fingers and toes ached from the cold: the temperature had dipped into the teens. At least my calves and quads thawed during the intense hour’s climb up the nearly vertical ascent, which led to Jiankou’s dusty ridge. Breathless, I gazed out across endless miles of chalky peaks.

Seconds later, I had a staggering revelation: the tiny trails that crisscrossed the rugged panorama as far as my eyes could see were actually China’s Great Wall—my second wow! of the morning!

Although China’s ancestors built defense walls as far back as the seventh century BC, these structures didn’t last long. The majority of the surviving Great Wall sections

OPPOSITE: ONE OF MUTIANYU’S MANY RECONSTRUCTED WALL SEGMENTS AND DEFENSE TOWERS ABOVE: “OFF-THE-WALL” HIKING ON ONE OF JIANKOU’S CRUMBLING, UNRESTORED SECTIONS, WHICH FEW OTHERS SEE. PHOTO BY “PETER” CAO HONGYUAN

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We followed Peter along Jiankou’s unkempt, undulating path. Though some walls survived, most of Jiankou’s bricked rows and towers had deteriorated into oblivion with only a powdery trail of rubble remaining. While we trekked, Peter told us interesting facts about the construction of the wall, pointing out that in the sharply slanting sections, sticky rice was ingeniously mixed with the mortar so that the bricks wouldn’t slide downhill while the adhesive hardened. As we traversed the ancient ruins, I was in awe, knowing that we were discovering a little-known area of the Great Wall that few others had ever experienced. In fact, we only encountered three other hikers during our entire crossing of Jiankou.

As we approached the Mutianyu border, several “wishing trees” added an unexpected splash of red to the otherwise subdued-colored scenery. Personally, I liked the whimsical novelty of the wishes written on tiny red strips of cloth and tied to the tree branches, but Peter scoffed at what he implied was a moneymaking gimmick by “scamming farmers.” Mutianyu’s meticulously restructured walls and towers greatly contrasted with Jiankou’s crumbling ones, yet the jaw-dropping vistas were equally magnificent. While exploring one of Mutianyu’s towers, Peter explained that they were built every eight hundred feet along the entire Great Wall, and that families lived in each one. Each family was responsible for protecting that particular section of the wall from invaders, and the unequivocal obligation was passed down from one generation to the next.

After clipping off the remaining miles of Mutianyu’s wall, Peter presented us with commemorative certificates. From Mutianyu there are three ways to reach the parking lot down below: by cable car, toboggan ride, or foot. Joe and I opted to go old school with Peter and walked to the bottom, where Jiang awaited to take us to a celebratory Thanksgiving Day lunch.

A HANDWRITTEN WISH TIED ON A “WISHING TREE” NEAR THE JIANKOU-MUTIANYU BORDER

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AS WE TRAVERSED THE ANCIENT RUINS, I WAS IN AWE, KNOWING THAT WE WERE DISCOVERING A LITTLE-KNOWN AREA OF THE GREAT WALL THAT FEW OTHERS HAD EVER EXPERIENCED. IN FACT, WE ONLY ENCOUNTERED THREE OTHER HIKERS DURING OUR ENTIRE CROSSING OF JIANKOU.

JIANKOU’S SURVIVING WALL SNAKES LIKE AN UNDULATING DRAGON ACROSS NORTHEASTERN CHINA’S RUGGED PEAKS.

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THE AMAZING GREAT WALL ENDLESSLY CRISSCROSSES THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE.

Three days later, I was fortunate enough to return to China’s Great Wall for another spectacular hike. This time, I joined a small group of fellow travel consultants as part of an eight-day “China Express” guided tour with Canadian outfitter, G Adventures (www.gadventures.com). Rather than an intense, hardcore trek, we spent several leisurely hours exploring Mutianyu’s reconstructed section on our own. Besides savoring the breathtaking scenery, I watched a Chinese couple pose for wedding photos, toasted with Tsingtao beers atop the wall, and took an exhilarating toboggan ride—a definite must for adrenaline junkies!

No matter how you roll, a visit to China’s Great Wall promises a mind-blowing wow! that few words or pictures can accurately capture. If China isn’t on your bucket list, it should be. The “Seventh Wonder of the Medieval World” should not be missed!

Kim Duke-Layden is an international adventurer whose motto is “I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my bucket list!” She lives at Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort in Miramar Beach, Florida, with her husband, John, and in between adventures, she writes for VIE. You can drop her a line at Kim@viezine.com.

A YOUNG COUPLE DRESSED IN TRADITIONAL CHINESE WEDDING ATTIRE (WITH “LUCKY RED” ACCENTS) POSES FOR PHOTOS.

Up Close and Personal

By Anne W. Schultz // Photography by David Moynahan

Soft, white sand cushions my hiking boots, feathery grass tickles my bare legs, and the morning sun warms my face as I traipse down a shoestring of a trail through a meadow of wildflowers. Waist-high golden asters billow up among tawny grasses, their masses of tiny flowers a dazzling sunshine yellow that is bright enough to attract the monarch butterflies that migrate through in the fall. The cloudless sulphur, a butterfly species native to Florida, flutters by in a current of air that captures the honey-sweet perfume of flowering earth. A cardinal sings from a nearby gallberry bush while an ant colony swarms near my feet.

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M

y husband, Bill, and I are hiking the Econfina Creek section of the Florida National Scenic Trail, engaging our senses as we walk: ogling the beauty, listening for subtle sounds, breathing in scents, and touching various textures, the way humans did for thousands upon thousands of years traveling on foot, before automobiles became the customary mode of transportation. Nowadays, we zoom past in cars or trucks with windows rolled up, air-conditioning on, and possibly a radio blaring—perhaps glancing at the scenery through the window, yet far removed from the sensual pleasures that our ancestors enjoyed.

Our intimate connection with the natural world has, in many cases, been lost, but can be regained one step at a time by hiking a wilderness trail.

Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail, the recent best-selling memoir recounting author Cheryl Strayed’s life-changing journey, has spurred a resurgence in trail walking, not only for the obvious reasons of beautiful scenery, exercise, and outdoor adventures, but also for the additional therapeutic benefits of self-discovery and introspection that are nourished by tramping through the wilderness. The Florida Trail doesn’t traverse mountainous grandeur like the Pacific Crest Trail, but its astonishing biodiversity still makes it stand out from other National Scenic Trails. “Mountains may provide vistas and provoke contemplation on the larger universe, but the Florida landscape is so much more intimate,” explains Megan Eno, who works as partnership coordinator for the US Forest Service. “The intense contrast of an orchid in a swamp brings you to contemplate the individual, the importance of self.”

The trail stretches for thirteen hundred miles up and down the state, through twenty-eight different ecosystems from Big Cypress National Preserve swamps to the sparkling quartz sand beaches of Gulf Islands National Seashore. The amazing variety is what makes the Florida Trail truly unique—it is a trail that keeps you wide-eyed and fascinated, wondering what in the world you’ll stumble across next. Maybe wildlife? “The trail not only connects all Florida landscapes, providing access to the real Florida for people, but it’s also an important wildlife corridor crossing the state,” Eno says. She shares what others have told her about the trail. “It’s the best way to see Florida. You’re in it; you can reach out and touch,

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and it touches you back,” said someone who hiked the entire trail. “The trail literally saved my life,” said another hiker recovering from severe obesity issues.

“I rank Econfina Creek in the Northwest Florida Panhandle as one of the top ten trails to hike,” advises Tom Daniel, vice president of the Florida Trail Association. “The eighteen-mile trail leads hikers up rugged bluffs overlooking Econfina Creek. In springtime, you come across rhododendron and mountain laurel that make it feel more like the Appalachian foothills than Florida. It’s a Florida few people realize exists.”

Back in 1966, one man’s passion for hiking and sheer frustration at the lack of trails paved the way for the Florida Trail. Wildlife photographer and real estate broker Jim Kern became sick and tired of “driving all the way to North Carolina to hike the wilderness” because there were no trails in his home state of Florida. “I felt strongly that Florida was missing out not having any footpaths,” says Kern in a website history of the Florida Trail Association.

“The Forest Service thought it was all a joke. They told me go ahead and do your thing, but no one will want to hike Florida.” To draw attention to his cause, Kern hiked from the Tamiami Trail to Highlands Hammock State Park near Sebring, a one-hundredsixty-mile journey that took twelve days.

Like-minded hiking enthusiasts responded from all over Florida. Many, like Kern, were eager to delve deeper than Disney World tourism and explore the wild heart of their wondrous state. In an energetic grassroots movement, these original respondents took matters into their own hands and started the Florida Trail Association, which still maintains the trails today. There were often no paths to follow, so these volunteers hacked their own, swinging machetes and marking trails with slashes of orange paint that they brushed on tree trunks. They braved snakes, mosquitoes, and high humidity—among other things—to make their dreams a reality. The abundant rainfall and warm temperatures of the Sunshine State make trail maintenance a constant effort. “You are never finished maintaining the trail,” says Daniel. “It’s the people who make it happen with their selfless devotion of time and resources.

Today, over five thousand volunteers belonging to eighteen chapters keep trails groomed for the three

Eventually the Florida Trail will hook up with a spur trail under construction in Alabama that will connect with the Appalachian Trail, making it possible to walk 4,000 miles from Florida to Canada.

Our intimate connection with the natural world has in many cases been lost, but can be regained one step at a time hiking a wilderness trail.

hundred and fifty thousand hikers and backpackers who visit every year.”

Their efforts led to the 1983 congressional approval of the Florida Trail as one of the eleven National Scenic Trails, which are considered the ultimate hiking paths in America. Congress designated the USDA Forest Service as the administrative agency that oversees the trail. Along with the original Florida Trail Association, a variety of federal and state agencies, national wildlife preserves, national and state parks, military lands, and private owners all interact to keep the trail, a visible work in progress, thriving and expanding. Eventually, the Florida Trail will hook up with a spur trail currently under construction in Alabama, which will connect with the Appalachian Trail, making it possible to walk four thousand miles from Florida to Canada.

Late fall to early spring are the best times for hiking any section, as temperatures cool down, rainfall lessens, snakes and insects are less active, and migratory wildlife is abundant. Here is a snapshot of some things you can encounter along the way:

the abandoned homesteads of early settlers before ending at Three Lakes Wildlife Management Area, where sandhill cranes abound.

CENTRAL FLORIDA In Central Florida, the trail splits into eastern and western corridors that loop around heavily populated cities. The trails reconnect at Ocala National Forest, where volunteers built the first segment of the Florida Trail. The eastern corridor takes hikers through palmetto prairies, pine flatwoods, open prairies, and hammocks. Along the way, you can visit a rare stand of virgin bald cypress at Tosohatchee State Preserve as well as one of the oldest and tallest cypress trees in the world. Keep an eye out for Florida black bears! The western corridor takes hikers into the wilderness region of the Green Swamp through the pine flatwoods, sandhills, and floodplain forest of the Withlacoochee River. Later, you parallel the route Hernando de Soto used when exploring Florida. It’s possible to see sandhill cranes and wood storks along this western route. A backpacker favorite is the seventy-mile route through the largest sandhill forest in the world, along with a dip in one of the glorious springs.

NORTH FLORIDA

SOUTH FLORIDA Florida panthers roam the South Florida section cutting through Big Cypress National Preserve, a timeless vista reminiscent of Africa’s golden savannas; the preserve’s sweeping expanse of sawgrass prairies and pond cypress swamps look as prehistoric as the alligators living there. The first forty miles feel like a tropical jungle as they meander through giant ferns, bromeliads, and orchids. Farther north, the trail passes through the Everglades, the only spot in the world where rainwater moves in sheets to the Gulf of Mexico through miles of Jamaica sawgrass. Then, the trail circles Lake Okeechobee, the second-largest freshwater lake in the country. It goes on to parallel the Kissimmee River and visits

The scenic trails of northern Florida visit some historical sites: an eighteenth-century indigo and rice plantation set beneath ancient cypress trees; and the site where Florida fought its largest Civil War battle. It takes you over ravines lush with dogwoods and azaleas in the spring and through thick oak forests at Gold Head Branch State Park. You might see the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker in Osceola National Forest. You’ll develop your hiking skills by navigating the ups and downs of high bluffs along the Suwannee River, considered one of Florida’s most beautiful due to its white-sand beaches and waterfalls. At the Aucilla River, you’ll witness a unique phenomenon: the river disappears underground and then reappears through “windows” in the limestone aquifer. St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge provides a haven for wildlife where Florida black bears along with countless birds are routinely sighted year-round.

The wildlife refuge also boasts salt marshes and isolated forests.

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Fisheating Creek at sunrise in South Florida; Photo by Robert Coveney of the FTA

I’ve discovered hiking a wilderness trail not only empowers you, but also leads you back home to your real and authentic self.

Camping at Hidden Pond in North Florida; Photo by Lenny Chew of the FTA

Horseback riding in Central Florida; Photo by M. Timothy O’Keefe of the Florida Trail Association

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Fort Pickens at Gulf Islands National Seashore in Florida’s Panhandle; Photo by Bill Weckel

THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE The trail back at Econfina Creek climbs up and away from the wildflower meadow into a big surprise. You suddenly feel like Alice falling into a rabbit hole and landing in a completely unexpected wonderland as you’re swallowed up by dense hardwood forest. You can not only see how changes in elevation—even slight ones—alter the landscape, but also feel it as the temperature dips by about ten degrees. Patches of lichen feel velvety and moist to your fingertips, and scores of mushrooms pop from fertile rich soil beneath your feet. Canopy trees tower above while their lower branches encircle you. You’ll find yourself cocooned in a quiet and peaceful sanctuary—a refuge from the cares and troubles of the world you left behind only thirty minutes before.

For those who think Florida is only palm trees and beaches, this place is a shocker. Who would expect an uphill hike in a state famed for sea-level vistas, or to discover that trees native to the Appalachian foothills also flourish here along ridges above a creek? Spring is glorious when these unexpected trees—redbuds, dogwoods, mountain laurels, and rhododendrons burst into riotous color, and native oakleaf hydrangeas spill waterfalls of white blossoms over limestone banks. In cooler months, a Florida maple flames a 100 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

more intense, fiery red than its northern relative against a background of glossy greens, adding a splash of Appalachian fall color to the scenery.

Sunlight streams through scattered openings in the canopy, casting shady silhouettes of leaf and branch patterns across the sunlit path. Clumps of silvery-green deer moss indicate drier ground as you climb higher toward limestone ledges and the sound of gurgling water.

From the bluffs, look down at sparkling amber-colored water cascading in ripples down narrow rock chutes, which make this the most challenging and highest canoe trail in Florida—recommended for experienced canoeists only!

Archaeologists have discovered a hundred and twenty Native American sites in this region alone, some dating back to the end of the Ice Age. The Muskogee tribe named the creek Econfina, a word meaning “natural bridge.” These original inhabitants had a total dependence on creeks, rivers, and springs as their only large source of freshwater. It’s the same today, but we lose sight of that when all we have to do is turn on a faucet.

Our ancestors revered the natural world as a sacred gift provided by a benevolent Creator. At least eleven spring groups feeding millions of gallons of water through this creek testify to God’s bountiful supply.

Like Cheryl Strayed and countless others, I’ve discovered that hiking a wilderness trail not only

empowers you, but also leads you back home to your authentic inner self. It awakens a wild adventurous spirit within—an intuitive, playful child that feels fully alive in these safe surroundings that set it free. Expand your horizons and spice up your life with the abundant variety offered on the Florida National Scenic Trail. Lace up your hiking boots and head out. You never know where the next step will lead when you follow the orange blazes down this corridor of life.

Read these books to enrich your trail experiences: Priceless Florida: Natural Ecosystems and Native Species – Beautifully written by experts Ellie Whitney, D. Bruce Means, and Anne Rudloe, this comprehensive overview of Florida nature is fascinating to read.

Hiking the Florida Trail by Johnny Molloy The Florida Trail: The Official Hiking Guide by Sandra Friend For volunteer and trail information, visit www. floridatrail.org or call 352-378-8823. For trail information and interpretive mapping tools, visit www. fs.usda.gov/FNST. For an inspiring video, check out www.youtube.com/watch?v=igVhLjq56DE.

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PL AYING

PARIS

EAR BY

BY N.S. RACHEOTES

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Take some friendly advice: read this accompanied by George Gershwin’s An American in Paris and by the light of a scented candle that can rock the room like French perfume.

After an all-night flight, bumpy enough to have our airline dinner dancing sur la table, Air France 333 landed at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, a facility as disproportionately large as the man for whom it was named.

The minute we scored touchdown, out came the perfume bottles and on went the glamour so that disembarking passengers were accompanied by the aroma of a night at the opera and not a workout in the gym. Only a corpse could miss the message: this is a city overflowing with women (and men for that matter) “just right for the kissing” and with food there for the tasting—we’ll get to the noise later.

We quickly stashed our bags in the hotel that could have come out of one of those Honoré de Balzac novels that nobody reads anymore; near the rail station and a sex shop (a combination which speaks for itself ), quiet and hot, it featured an elevator which must have been used by Rastignac (see Père Goriot), and breakfasts to die for, at least if the bread and cold cuts, to say nothing of the bacon, were any clue. The hotel staff was so kind, as were the heroes of the Métro trains who rivaled one another to offer seats to anyone in need.

We were immediately off to the Latin Quarter. There, we circled the University of Paris. If you recall from the history course through which you dozed, Erasmus dropped out of that institution only to become the most learned man in sixteenthcentury Europe. Outside its courtyard, where the Curies were all aglow with the discovery of radium and polonium, the sirens of the speeding police cars dragged my mind toward the sounds of the Pink Panther movies.

Next day, two friends and I walked this most walkable city. Despite being repeatedly misled by the GPS, we still managed to blunder into the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Listen carefully and you will hear the echoes of the sixth century because that was when Childebert, son of Clovis (the first Frankish Christian king) built this monument to the power of religious conversion. Childebert’s remains were entombed there along with those of many other illustrious medieval personages. As the cigarette smoke curled over the animated political talk boiling in one café after another, I again realized that the desecration of Saint-Germain-des-Prés was but one of many instances in the history of France when political grievances would overwhelm magnificent art and architecture.

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even at more than fourteen euros per, the thick cheeseburgers and large cold beers were more than well worth the cost.

In an uncharacteristic display of our own religious exuberance, we decided to attend the Gregorian Mass at Notre Dame. It filled our spiritual ears with the sounds of the Western magisterium and reminded us of what splendid things humanity has done for God. The spiritual vibe continued, despite the fatigue, the squalling of various adults amidst extraordinarily well-behaved children, and the multilingual observations of tourists as we sat before Monet’s Water Lilies. He painted them while Western civilization was attempting suicide on the battlefields of World War I. If you listened really closely, you could detect the stream caressing their stems, unheard amid the guns of the Marne, Verdun, Ypres, and the Somme.

I know the sound from languid summer afternoons where the lilies carpet the Charles River on the Watertown side. Apparently, I am beyond cure.

Boston is always in me.

Flocks of tourists cooed beneath the Eiffel Tower, encircled with the names of scientists, mathematicians, and philosophers. Repeatedly, we floated on the river in the BatOtaxi, not to be confused with the autObus or the dessertOcart.

Unless you learn to block out the dance music blanketing Bastille Square, the complaints of pseudoart lovers in the churches and museums (“Whose idea was this!”), and the omnipresent white noise

It filled our SPIRITUAL EARS with the sounds of the

WESTERN MAGISTERIUM and reminded us of what SPLENDID things humanity has done for God.

CLOCKWISE: 1. EIFFEL TOWER VIEW FROM THE CHAMPS DE MARS 2. PARIS BY NIGHT, SEINE RIVER BRIDGE. 3. NOTRE DAME 4. VIEW OF THE LOUVRE MUSEUM AND PONT DES ARTS

...the fugitives from injustice who LIFTED PARIS in the 1830s and 1840s, THE DAZZLING

MUSICIANS, and benches, trees, and broad sidewalks teeming with CREATIVITY, LOVE, and HEARTBREAK.

of the passing traffic, you’ll miss much. You’ll never be swept away by the scriptural messages in the priceless stained glass of the Chartres Cathedral or the Sainte-Chapelle. You’ll fail miserably to contemplate what price France has paid for her many wars as exemplified by the Arch of Triumph and the Invalides. You might even miss eavesdropping on the conversational intimacies exchanged in the restaurants and pastry shops.

Our next strategic victory came when we kicked our way down the Champs-Élysées on a sunny afternoon. There, on either side, we discovered the glamour, the shops, and even the car dealerships, which all meant Paris.

Here was the mob, Napoleon’s armies, the liberating Allied forces in 1945, the fugitives from injustice who lifted Paris in the 1830s and 1840s, the dazzling musicians, and benches, trees, and broad sidewalks teeming with creativity, love, and heartbreak. While people watching from one of these shaded benches, one might be excused for marveling at the fact that one could walk away from the splendors of French womanhood to the horrors of battle. Where does temptation truly lie? Give me, as the old joke goes, an apartment on the Left Bank, a mistress who knows all the tricks, and the comfort of knowing that you don’t have to get up for work in the morning, and you can keep the horses, braid, and other accoutrements of cavalry life.

How does it go?—“I would have liked to go to war, but, sir, I was prevented.

Instead, I have to stay at home and keep the girls contented.”

All too soon, we’re clearing customs at Logan airport. Not soon enough, we’re hearing from the passport officer: “Welcome back home.” Forever after, we’ll be musing over the truth that unless you’ve heard Paris, you haven’t seen Paris.

Nick Racheotes is a product of the Boston public schools, Brandeis University, and Boston College, from which he holds a PhD in history. Since he retired from teaching at Framingham State University, Nick and his wife, Pat, divide their time among Boston, Cape Cod, and the Western world.

FRESH SEAFOOD?

One of the first questions people ask when they visit our area is “How can we be sure we’re getting fresh seafood?”

That’s an excellent question. There is a good chance that the seafood you will be offered traveled farther than you did. In the state of Florida, even though we are surrounded by water, more than 90% of the seafood sold this year will be imported from other countries.

Throughout the United States, the huge majority of seafood is imported.

Most of it is mislabeled. Frozen seafood is sold as “fresh” and imported seafood is sold as “local.” According to Oceana, 93% of fish sold as red snapper is actually some other species. 57% of tuna sold at sushi bars throughout the country is not tuna. Most of the tilapia served in this country comes from Viet Nam and Thailand and much of it is farmed in waters with sewage run-off and the source of feed is pig feces.

Harbor Docks has been selling fish through its wholesale market since 1981. We sell to markets across the United States and Canada. We also sell to select restaurants along the Gulf Coast. Harbor Docks contracts with over 100 commercial boats to insure that we have an adequate supply of fresh fish.

We invite you to dine at our restaurants – Harbor Docks, in the heart of Destin, and Camille’s, overlooking the Gulf in Crystal Beach. But we’d also encourage you to try any of the wonderful, independent, local restaurants in our area that are committed to serving Florida seafood. We know who they are, because we sell them their fish.

check our website to find out which restaurants sell certified Gulf-to-Table fish from harbor Docks Seafood market.

DES TIN , FL | 850. 837. 2506 | h a r b o r D o c k S .co m S E A F O O D & C O C K TA I L S

Snapper and Tuna stats: http://oceana.org/en/news-media/publications/reports/oceana-study-reveals-seafood-fraud-nationwide Imported seafood stat: http://www.fishwatch.gov/farmed_seafood/outside_the_us.htm Tilapia/pig feces: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2012-10-11/asian-seafood-raised-on-pig-feces-approved-for-u-s-consumers.html

27-2 UPTOWN GRAYTON CIRCLE, GRAYTON BEACH, FL 32459

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b y de m et r iu s ful l e r

In a perfect world—perhaps in my perfect world, at least—we would be able to combine the shimmering beauty of our Northwest Florida Gulf Coast with the scenic vistas, rolling hills, zigzag mazes of vines, and sometimes more temperate weather of California’s wine country.

Although we are many miles apart, our wine-related friends throughout Napa Valley have not only assisted in shaping their own communities, but they have also enabled and shaped certain aspects of ours.

California vintners continually raise their glasses and open their cellars to help organizations—like the Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation and the Sinfonia Gulf Coast’s Wine, Women and Shoes event—raise money to benefit children throughout Northwest Florida. Along with being the home of many generous residents, Napa is a fun place for adventure and is replete with unexplored nooks, crannies, and surprises behind the vines.

In the summer of 2013, four of us embarked on an extended “out West” weekend that began in San Francisco and soon became a whirlwind extravaganza of music, food, exploring, and, of course, wine in Napa Valley. Music in Napa? We chose to visit in July to catch the annual Festival del Sole, one of America’s premier music and lifestyle festivals, which blends world-class music, theatre, and dance events with the region’s fine wine and cuisine in a grand celebration of the art of life. The ten-day event features performances by renowned artists and emerging talent; gala events at stunning wineries, resorts, and estates; free community concerts; a wellness series promoting healthy living; and year-round arts education initiatives sponsored by the Orchestra Institute Napa Valley.

TIDBIT: The Russian National Orchestra’s annual residency at Festival del Sole is completely underwritten by Tatiana Copeland of Bouchaine Vineyards. Her great-uncle was Sergei Rachmaninoff.

THE GATE TO ST. HELENA VINEYARDS, Photo by Cynthia Garrard

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We scheduled our visit during the festival’s opening weekend, which we discovered was an incredible time to engage in the pomp and circumstance surrounding the kickoff. Incomparable Broadway legend and Tony Award–winning singer and actress Audra McDonald, who had just been awarded the prestigious title of Musician of the Year by Musical America, opened the festival at the breathtakingly gorgeous Castello di Amorosa.

(One of Napa Valley’s top destinations, Castello di Amorosa entices guests with secret passageways, stunning vistas, stately guard towers, and outstanding Italian-style wines.) In fact, the entire festival is flooded with amazing musical talent: the Russian National Orchestra, international guest artists, jazz musicians, ballet dancers, and even a youth orchestra. Nonmusical activities ran the gamut from intimate dining experiences in stunning vineyards and glamorous gala events dotting the terrain to yoga and wellness sessions in the vineyards led by health advocates from around the country.

Of course, while in Napa, one expects to partake in wine tastings and vineyard tours, and this excursion was no exception. Our trip was the culmination of weeks of research so that we could make the most of our limited long weekend and try to accommodate requests from friends and colleagues. With more than four hundred vineyards in Napa Valley alone, it is a daunting task to isolate a handful to fit your schedule. Some of our visits were VIP experiences of the inner workings of several acclaimed vineyards, and others were built into the convenient, all-access Allegro Pass offered by the Festival del Sole. I am quite certain they named the pass that because allegro means “at a brisk tempo” in Italian musical terms. I assure you that we were doing everything at a brisk tempo, from wine samplings to concerts and vineyard tours, all jam-packed into just a few days.

Our scheduled visits were off the beaten path, both literally and figuratively. The first stop was up very windy roads that wrapped the side of a mountain on the way to David Arthur Vineyards. (My apologies to the rental car company: those were my claw marks on the back of the driver’s seat—I was holding 114 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

TONY AWARD–WINNING ACTRESS AND SINGER AUDRA MCDONALD Photo courtesy of Murphy O’Brien Public Relations

on for dear life. No animals were harmed during the process.) At an elevation of fifteen hundred feet, the vineyard stands above the fog line and is home to some of the priciest Cabernet grapes that can be found on Long Ranch Road, also known as the Rodeo Drive of Napa Valley.

David Arthur hospitality director and winery chef Tyson Ducker, former sous chef of the famed Napa landmark the French Laundry, was our host.

We sampled a lineup of stellar wines, from a new rosé—rosé is the latest rage in Napa—to several of the vineyard’s flagship labels, including Elevation 1147. As we came to expect with each of our private tours, our hosts led us through the vineyards and explained in detail the viticulture and wine-making process from vine to press to barrel to bottle. Barrel tasting was a very interesting experience, as we could really taste the various stages of development for each wine.

Between tastings, and back down the mountain, we stopped for lunch at Bouchon Bistro, Thomas Keller’s famed eatery in Yountville. Conveniently located next door is Bouchon Bakery—famous for their macarons—which caught the attention of one of our travel companions and subsequently served as our breakfast stop for the next two days.

St. Helena Winery was the first of two afternoon stops. Past an ornate entrance gate and at the end of a dusty road passing through manicured vineyards

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1. THE KEY TO BLACKBIRD VINEYARDS, Photo by Demetrius Fuller 2. GATSBY-ESQUE GALA AT MEADOWOOD NAPA VALLEY, Photo courtesy of Murphy O’Brien Public Relations 3. ART IN PROGRESS CREATED BY ARTIST CLIFFORD BAILEY AT CHIMNEY ROCK WINERY, Photo by Demetrius Fuller 4. SCULPTURE AT MA(I)SONRY NAPA VALLEY, Photo by Demetrius Fuller 5. ACTOR ROBERT REDFORD AT THE OPENING NIGHT GALA AT CASTELLO DI AMOROSA, Photo courtesy of Murphy O’Brien Public Relations 6. ANNUAL DANCE GALA FEATURING MEMBERS OF THE SAN JOSE BALLET, Photo courtesy of Murphy O’Brien Public Relations 7. PATRONS ENJOYING ONE OF THE FESTIVAL’S VIP DINNERS AT SPRING MOUNTAIN VINEYARD, Photo courtesy of Murphy O’Brien Public Relations 8. ONE OF THE TASTY SELECTIONS AT THE TASTE OF NAPA AT NAPA VALLEY COUNTRY CLUB, Photo by Michael Dobson 9. TYSON DUCKER OF DAVID ARTHUR VINEYARDS PREPARING A BARREL TASTING, Photo by Jeff Garrard 10. FESTIVAL DEL SOLE BANNERS PROUDLY PLACED THROUGHOUT THE VALLEY, Photo by Michael Dobson V IE Z INE .C OM | 115

sits the extravagant main house. Wine tastings take place on the covered back patio, which is reminiscent of a stately Southern veranda, encircled by meticulously trimmed shrubbery, a pool, guesthouses, and a bocce ball court. Guests can see miles of vineyards and mountains on the horizon. After starting with a lovely Burgundian-style white, our hostess, St. Helena owner Sarah Buxton, poured what is quite possibly the best chardonnay ever to touch my lips. We did a brief tour of the vines adjacent to the house and learned about the small parcel of land on which the vineyard sits, discussing the diverse soils and the clones of grapes that comprise the vines. Most important, the winemakers at St. Helena are what make the vineyard and its products truly unique.

Winemakers are reaching cult fame as of late, and St. Helena has two of the best: Aaron Pott and Elizabeth Tangney. Pott was named one of Food & Wine magazine’s Winemakers of the Year in 2012, and he is certainly a superstar consultant in the world of winemaking. The river that borders the St. Helena property provides such rich variations of soil and growing opportunities that both Pott and Tangney cherish the process of crafting exquisite varietals.

Their experimentation with the four vine clones (one being the Bacchus clone planted centuries ago along the river) reaps some of the best cabernet sauvignons in the region. And the good news for those of us in Northwest Florida is that Aaron Pott will once again be featuring his Pott Wines at Sinfonia Gulf Coast’s Wine, Women and Shoes fund-raiser in February of 2014.

Integral to the Festival del Sole’s combination of wine and the arts is the plethora of wine-centric events at select vineyards throughout Napa Valley. We had the privilege of attending a wine dinner at picturesque Jamieson Ranch following a performance of the Russian National Orchestra and an incredible lunch, which was accompanied by the sounds of flamenco guitar, in the barrel room at Chimney Rock Winery.

Jamieson Ranch Vineyards, the southernmost winery in Napa Valley, is reminiscent of a majestic western mountain lodge with more than three hundred acres of gently rolling hills, terraced vineyards, and phenomenal panoramic views. More than three hundred people enjoyed a five-course meal complemented by Reata Wine’s varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay. Popular artist Clifford Bailey

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TOP: JAMIESON RANCH, Photo by Demetrius Fuller BOTTOM: THE RUSSIAN NATIONAL ORCHESTRA PRESENTS “AN EVENING OF OPERA,” Photo courtesy of Murphy O’Brien Public Relations

was perched in the corner creating a new work of art while guests took their turns hovering around renowned pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet, the guest artist from the afternoon’s concert. Still hungry after a long day, we happily patronized Taco Bell following the dinner—I suppose one could say that we ran for the “Bordeaux”—and chased it down with a really nice red wine from Blackbird Vineyards, where we were staying.

The 2014 Festival del Sole, set for July 11–20, already promises to shine, featuring winery events by Cardinale Estate, Hall Wines, The Hess Collection, Gargiulo Vineyards, Far Niente Winery, Robert Mondavi Winery, and more. Special musical guests will include Grammy Award–winning violinist Joshua Bell and the Concord Jazz All Stars, among others. There will also be a VIP evening in tribute to screen legend Sophia Loren with the world premiere of chamber group Los Angeles Virtuosi conducted by Loren’s son Carlo Ponti, Jr.

CYNTHIA AND JEFF GARRARD AT THE ENTRANCE TO JAMIESON RANCH, Photo by Michael Dobson

Jamieson Ranch Vineyards, the southernmost winery in Napa Valley, is reminiscent of a majestic western mountain lodge with more than three hundred acres of gently rolling hills, terraced vineyards, and phenomenal panoramic views.

Our venture also served as a recruiting trip of sorts to find partners for our charity wine events back home.

Getting back to the ways in which wine and vintners are helping to shape communities, the Festival del Sole and two organizations in Northwest Florida—the Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation and Sinfonia Gulf Coast’s Wine, Women and Shoes—rely on the generosity of vintners and wineries for their largest fund-raising events each year.

Festival del Sole’s commitment is to enrich the cultural and economic vitality of Napa Valley. Besides its world-class programming, the festival supports numerous educational and cultural initiatives throughout the community. Over the past three years, Festival del Sole has awarded over $150,000 in grants to local nonprofits, schools, and arts organizations. Recent gifts include a $25,000 donation to local middle and high school music programs, a $34,000 grant to support Salvador Elementary’s Artful Learning program, and $9,000 in scholarship funds for Napa Valley Youth Symphony students. Furthermore, through a partnership with the Lincoln Theater and the Orchestra Institute Napa Valley, local students, teachers, and artists are

given the opportunity to learn from the festival’s renowned musicians and dancers through workshops, master classes, and performances. Proceeds from the festival have also supported numerous community organizations through grants to the St. Helena Hospital Foundation, Family House, the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation, the Pathway Home, the Napa Valley Education Foundation, and the Land Trust of Napa County.

Founded in 2005 and named one of the top ten charity wine auctions in the country by Wine Spectator, the Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation has donated more than $6 million to Northwest Florida charities through hosting world-class wine and culinary events. These funds have affected the lives of over 50,000 youths, including many afflicted by health issues and abuse.

In 2013, the foundation donated a record $1.375 million to fourteen charities. The impact of the foundation on these local organizations is immeasurable,

from Children in Crisis, whose Children’s Neighborhood provides an emergency shelter and family foster homes for young children, to the Youth Village, which provides a safe place for educational and recreational services to children ages five to sixteen, and the newest addition, Food For Thought Outreach, Inc., which prepares backpacks full of healthy, easy-to-prepare meals for underprivileged children to take home with them for the weekends. These charities rely on the foundation not just to keep their doors open, but their ability to expand and provide much-needed services to the community also depends on them.

Newer to the wine event scene is Sinfonia Gulf Coast. Founded in 2005 on Florida’s Northwest Gulf Coast with the mission of redefining the symphony experience, Sinfonia’s notable guest artists have included Broadway legend Bernadette Peters, R&B icon Roberta Flack, Mary Wilson of the Supremes, Chris Brubeck, and the iconic big band Pink Martini.

Since its inception, Sinfonia Gulf Coast has presented V IE Z INE .C OM | 117

more than three hundred concerts and events, has reached more than 37,000 children through its outreach initiative that brings guest artists and musicians into the schools, and has offered complimentary concert tickets to more than 750 families through Sinfonia’s Students4FREE program. The proceeds of Sinfonia’s Wine, Women and Shoes event have been dedicated to expanding the organization’s educational outreach offerings to include an Arts in Medicine component in collaboration with Sacred Heart Hospital and its selection as one of fifty-seven orchestras nationwide to participate in Carnegie Hall’s Weill Music Institute project called Link Up, which provides a yearlong curriculum for third through fifth graders and culminates in an interactive performance with the orchestra.

Wine, Women and Shoes activities across the country consist of sophisticated events that feature wine tastings, vintner dinners, auctions, fashion marketplaces, and, often, fashion shows created to support a noble cause. Over the course of eight years and more than 120 events, Wine, Women and Shoes has raised more than fifteen million dollars for charities. Sinfonia’s second annual Wine, Women and Shoes will include vintner dinners hosted in private homes throughout the region, exclusive wine tastings with guest winemakers and representatives, and a food, wine, and fashion extravaganza signature event. Last year’s event raised $150,000, and 2014 already promises to exceed that figure.

To lovingly lift a term from our friends at Wine, Women and Shoes, “Sip Sip Hooray” to all of these dedicated entities that make a difference!

Demetrius Fuller is the music and artistic director of Sinfonia Gulf Coast and also serves on the board of directors of the Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation.

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DEMETRIUS FULLER

NAPA VALLEY Vineyards and Hot Spots: David Arthur Vineyards – www.davidarthur.com St. Helena Vineyards – www.sthelena.com/wine Jamieson Ranch – www.jamiesonranch.com Chimney Rock Winery – www.chimneyrock.com Fleury Winery – www.fleurywinery.com Blackbird Vineyards – www.blackbirdvineyards.com Bouchon Bistro – www.bouchonbistro.com Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley – www.maisonry.com

6 WaterColor Blvd. S. #101B, WaterColor, FL 850.231.1751 www.beach-folly.com 118 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

Events and News: Festival del Sole – www.festivaldelsole.org Wine, Women & Shoes – www.winewomenandshoes.com Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation – www.dcwaf.org Sinfonia Gulf Coast Orchestra – www.sinfoniagulfcoast.org

License # CGC1515280

A Testimonial Alan built my house in Seaside in 1992. The ultimate compliment is to hire the same builder to build a second home for you. I did and I will hire him to build a third.

I think that says it all. If you’re considering building do yourself a huge favor and talk to Ficarra Builders.

Ken Scoggins

228 Market St. | Santa Rosa Beach, FL 32459 | 850.267.2898 | w w w.ficarr a.com

PEOPLE + PLACES

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Pizitz Home and Cottage Celebrates Twenty-Five Years Mimosas flowed and hors d’oeuvres were passed as guests enjoyed the coastal elegance and comfy ambience at the twenty-fifth anniversary celebration of Pizitz Home and Cottage in Seaside, Florida. Special guests included the

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founders of Seaside, Robert and Daryl Davis, and

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Pizitz held a 25 percent off sale in honor of the momentous occasion. VIE looks forward to seeing this Seaside staple continue to flourish for many years to come! Congratulations!

Photography by Makenzie Carter

Daryl Davis and Seleta Hayes Howard

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Micah Davis and Makenzie Meyers Carter

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Erica Gibson-Pierce and Kendall Moore

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Floral arrangements by Bella Flora

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Jackie Stone and Robi Fugate

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The Davis family with portrait of Louis Pizitz

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Wild about

TALLAHASSEE! PADDLING THE PRISTINE WAKULLA RIVER WITH T-N-T HIDE-A-WAY ECOTOURS

eat, zip, bike, paddle, and party

BY KIM DUKE-LAYDEN || PHOTOGRAPHY BY KIM DUKE-LAYDEN AND JOHN LAYDEN

IF YOU THOUGHT FLORIDA’S CAPITAL CITY, ONCE INFAMOUS FOR ITS DIMPLED CHADS, IS FILLED WITH NOTHING BUT POLITICS AND COLLEGE FOOTBALL, THEN THINK AGAIN. TALLAHASSEE IS A YEAR-ROUND ADVENTURER’S PARADISE, WHERE YOU CAN PLAY HARD BOTH DAY AND NIGHT. WHETHER YOU’D LIKE TO CUT LOOSE WITH YOUR BEST BUDS OR HAVE A ROMANTIC ROMP WITH THAT SPECIAL SOMEONE, WILD TALLY IS AWAITIN’!

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ur three-day weekend kicked off with a stay at Hotel Duval (www. hotelduval.com), which exudes a hip vibe artfully wrapped in a vogue European package. Originally opening in 1951, the historic boutique hotel underwent a major renovation in 2009 and emerged as Midtown’s sexy, sophisticated address. As a member of the Marriott’s select Autograph Collection (www.autograph-hotels.marriott.com), awardwinning Hotel Duval has been recognized for its originality, uniqueness, and character. For instance, overnight guests can choose between six mood-boosting room colors with stimulating aromatic scents ranging from exhilarating red with a hibiscus passion fruit scent to refreshing blue with an ocean scent. Our uplifting yellow room scented with “Nevada Sunset” fit perfectly with our action-packed weekend. Call it a coincidence—or a Red Bull rush—but our energy levels were supercharged all weekend, and we were unaware of the color-coded enhancements until after we checked out.

Be sure to arrive in time to catch a spectacular sunset at Level 8, Hotel Duval’s edgy rooftop lounge, which is one of the few between South Beach and Hotlanta. Level 8 has a sleek, modern feel with zebra prints and chrome, and the sweeping views of Florida State University’s Doak Campbell Stadium and the Florida State Capitol can’t be beat.

If you’re craving a kick-ass steak and don’t want to venture far, take the elevator down to Shula’s 347 Grill, which has nearly as many awards as Tallahassee has politicians.

the Front Porch’s irresistible homemade desserts. I recommend their key lime pie, coconut cake, or red velvet cheesecake.

If you’re not ready to call it a night and you know the password (available via online reservations), drink up some Gatsby-era ambience at Alchemy Spirits and Concoctions (www.alchemymidtown.com), a refined throwback to the 1920s speakeasies with dimly lit alleyways, clandestine codes, and genuine handcrafted cocktails from adroit “alchemists.” In keeping with its authentic Prohibitionperiod menu, forget rum drinks. Instead, order a Corpse Reviver Number 2, a Pimm’s Ginger, or a Godfather.

Warning: the beds at Hotel Duval are so comfortable you may not want to get up—ever. But you’ll be amply rewarded if you answer the call of the wild. Before venturing out, fuel up on high-octane Starbucks and a hot, made-to-order breakfast or grab-n-go pastries at LeRoc Bistro, located adjacent to the lobby. Then set your GPS to Crawfordville, located twenty miles south of Tallahassee, for a morning paddle down the pristine Wakulla River.

AN ARTSY SEATING NOOK IN HOTEL DUVAL’S LOBBY

If you prefer seafood, head to the Front Porch (www.frontporchtallahassee.com), which is located a few miles away and is relatively new on Midtown’s trendy restaurant scene. The historic property features an expansive porch with a relaxed raw bar that has two huge crystal chandeliers hanging above.

Fresh seafood and Southern “plow to chow” cuisine expertly prepared are the star attractions.

Among the many tasty appetizers, the Apalachicola Oysters Rockefeller and gourmet pimiento cheese served with homemade pickled watermelon rinds were standouts.

Hotel Duval has been recognized for its originality, uniqueness, and character.

Our sweetheart server, Kris, recommended the herb-crusted grouper with a balsamic glaze, which was spot-on delicious. I washed it down with a Lee’s Mangria, a fruity concoction of mango nectar and Riesling topped with “black bubbles,” a sparkling Syrah blend. Not manly enough for you? Order a caliente Habañero Margarita on the rocks. Satisfy your sweet tooth with a slice of one of 124 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

After crossing the Gretchen Evans Memorial Bridge on Highway 98, turn right at T-n-T Hide-a-way (tnthideaway.com), which was running river ecotours long before the phrase was ever coined. In fact, trailblazer and single mother of five Gretchen Evans built the business from the ground up back in 1976 after spotting a “For Sale” sign on the idyllic property that spoons the Wakulla River. According to Evans’s daughter, Jacki Youngstrand, who now owns and operates the business with her son, Robert Baker, her late mother named the original canoe rental outpost “T-n-T” as an acronym for the area’s abundant “trout and turkeys.” Youngstrand laughed when she added that Evans later discovered she was actually knee-deep in mullet and turkey vultures.

The sun shone brightly as we launched our colorful kayaks on the upper end of the Wakulla, which according to Youngstrand is the most scenic part of the river. Baker guided us downstream, where we spotted plenty of wildlife and “alligator breath,” local lingo for the morning mist that hovers above the chilly water. Call it a coincidence, but minutes later I spotted the protruding eyes of a gator, whose unsettling movements mimicked an enemy periscope slowly emerging from the water and seamlessly disappearing again.

Ironically, alligators are intimidated by the river’s gentle giants—manatees. These docile creatures are closely related to elephants and resurface every few minutes

for air. Close encounters with this endangered species were the highlight of our morning’s excursion, especially when they swam underneath our kayaks.

Thanks to “the Manatee Lady,” which Evans was called because of her ardent devotion to protecting and educating others about this endangered species, manatee sightings are frequent in many of the area’s spring-fed rivers, like the Wakulla, the St. Marks, and the Wacissa.

Our exploration of the “real Florida” grew wilder by the minute as we continued on to nearby Wakulla Springs State Park (www.floridastateparks.org), a 6,000-acre wildlife sanctuary tucked within Spanish moss–laden woodlands that have been inhabited by humans for nearly fifteen thousand years. The nostalgic Wakulla Springs Lodge (www.wakullaspringslodge.org) was built in 1937 by financier Edward Ball as a destination for nature-seeking tourists. The lodge is an example of Mediterranean Revival architecture with one-foot-thick walls. Its impressive lobby features a massive marble fireplace, colorful hand-stenciled cypress beams, decorative wrought-iron accents, and period furniture. Upstairs, twenty-seven spacious and allegedly haunted accommodations have a vintage feel with modern upgrades, except for in-room televisions, which Ball’s will strictly prohibits.

“Old Joe” beckoned me from across the lobby. He’s an eleven-foot, 650-pound stuffed alligator that was estimated to be three hundred years old when an unknown assailant killed him in 1996. Behind Old Joe’s display is the former post office, which now houses a gift shop and snack bar with an old-fashioned soda fountain.

Belly up to the world’s longest known marble bar and order a malt or a retro “ginger yip” made with ginger and vanilla syrups mixed with club soda.

DARK, TANNIN-RICH WATERS AND MOSS-LADEN CYPRESS TREES AT WAKULLA SPRINGS STATE PARK

The lodge’s relaxed yet refined dining room serves three meals daily and overlooks the springs’ swimming area and high dive. According to Jodi Perez, the lodge’s first-ever female chef, people come from all over to eat here. Along with timehonored favorites like fried chicken, fried beef liver, and navy bean soup, Perez’s seasonal menus highlight seafood and were inspired by her Southern grandmothers.

Try the Bee Charmer Salad with Gulf shrimp and tupelo honey dressing, Oysters DuPont with lump crabmeat, feta, and capers, or the grilled fresh catch. Save room for Perez’s homemade Hummingbird Cake.

After lunch we embarked on a forty-five-minute jungle cruise guided by humorous Jeff Hugo from the Florida Park Service. The marshy banks of these gator-infested waters were overgrown with cypress trees and dangling vines like the ones Johnny Weissmuller swung from during several Tarzan movies that were shot here in the 1940s. Wakulla’s springs are not only reported as the world’s deepest, but the Native American name supposedly means “mysterious water.” The springs’ dark, tannin-tinted water created an ideal setting for the B-movie thriller The Creature from the Black Lagoon, which was also filmed here. Fans won’t want to miss next fall’s big shindig that will commemorate the film’s sixtieth anniversary with a special screening and a guest appearance by Julia Adams, who starred in the movie.

ONE OF COUNTLESS GATORS THAT LINE THE RIVERBANKS OF WAKULLA SPRINGS STATE PARK

After a day on the water, we returned to the big city for a casual evening on the town. When the weather is nice, snag a table under shady magnolias at Andrew’s Capital Grill & Bar (http://www.andrewsdowntown.com/grill.php), a downtown Tallahassee institution for over forty years. In between rounds, duck inside to catch the score on one of Andrew’s thirteen HDTVs. Afterward, check out the V IE Z INE .C OM | 125

action at College Town at Madison Street, Tally’s newest entertainment enclave (www.fsucollegetown.net). According to Madison Social’s copartner, Matt Thompson, old school meets new school in this hybrid gastro-pub and sports bar, where pub fare is kicked up a notch but not too high-brow to exclude the student population. Imbibe craft beers and “sociables” (signature drinks) like a Madison Mule or a hot pepper–infused Rusty Belle (www.madisonsocial.com).

When spring fever hits, head upstairs to Recess, a rooftop pool retreat by day and an edgy nightclub after dark (www.recesscollegetown.com).

Saturday’s whirlwind adventure began high above Tallahassee Museum with Tree to Tree Adventures (www.treetotreeadventures.com). Adrenaline junkies should opt for the advanced Soaring Cypress course, which combines the introductory Canopy Crossing course with additional higher, trickier obstacles and longer, faster zip lines. We grabbed our harnesses, clipped on our carabiners, and away we flew through twelve zip lines and forty obstacles. Although I’ve done more death-defying canopy tours in Costa Rica and Guatemala, the Soaring Cypress definitely had its challenges. For one, the course is self-guided, so it’s up to you to attach and secure your carabiners correctly. And, no rescuers are at the other end in the event you over- or undershoot a platform.

Eagle-eyed employees watched us from below and were handy at retrieving fallen gloves. For nearly two hours we tested our agility and balance while walking tight ropes, crossing dangling logs, surfing through the sky, and crab-crawling above scenic cypress swamps. The course was exhilarating and so were the bird’s-eye views.

Before lunch, we hit Saturday’s Downtown Marketplace at Ponce de Leon Park, which is held March–November from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and features lots of local flavor, music, and crafts (www.downtownmarket.com). When you arrive, follow your nose to Frontier Kettle Korn. It’s the best you’ll ever taste! If it’s the first Saturday of the month, the market festivities continue until 5 p.m. and include craft beer tastings.

Our stomachs were growling when we arrived at Midtown’s Paisley Cafe (www. paisleycafe.com) for a little “love on a plate,” which is how owner Kiersten Worrell describes her seven-ingredient comfort food. Everything is made from scratch with the highest quality ingredients, so whatever you order, you can’t go wrong. If you like shrimp and smoked Gouda grits, this is the place to order them! Chocoholics will have a hard time deciding between the Nutella bread pudding, the German chocolate cheesecake, or the slutty brownies. If you need a caffeine jolt, order a Manhattan Special, which is a mixture of cola and black coffee. Paisley Cafe closes at 3:00 p.m. daily, so plan accordingly.

After lunch, we drove along one of Tallahassee’s many scenic canopy roads, where we were shaded under an organic awning of moss-draped oaks. Our guide, Josh, from the Great Bicycle Shop (www.greatbicycle.com) was awaiting us with rental bikes at Phipps Park, a 650-acre wild and sprawling urban playground.

We mounted our mountain bikes and followed Josh on an invigorating off-road excursion along the Elinor Klapp-Phipps Trail, whose triple circuitous course skirted Lake Jackson and grew longer and more intense with each undulating loop. February is an ideal time to ride this trail when it’s blanketed in brilliant trillium blooms and the weather is crisp.

TALLAHASSEE MUSEUM’S SOARING CYPRESS ZIP-LINE COURSE TRAVERSES HIGH ABOVE THE SWAMP 126 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 014

SCENIC OFF-ROAD BIKING ON THE ELINOR KLAPP-PHIPPS TRAIL

Tallahassee’s Big Bend region contains countless trails not only for biking, but also for paddling, hiking, running, and horseback riding.

A smoother, less hilly route is the Tallahassee– St. Marks Historic Railroad State Trail, a “rails to trails” path that runs from the Capital City along a former rail line to the Gulf Coast. Out and back, the forty-one-mile, paved course is an easy, flat ride and has several rest stops with facilities. But keep an eye out for huge banana spider webs that are strung like gossamer banners across the path.

Tallahassee’s Big Bend region contains countless trails not only for biking, but also for paddling, hiking, running, and horseback riding. If you’re passionate about the great outdoors, visit Trailahassee’s recently launched all-encompassing website (www.Trailahassee.com), featuring info on six hundred miles of various pathways with interactive trail maps, GPS coordinates, and recommended outfitters and associations. Another great resource chock-full of area information, including upcoming events, is www.visittallahassee.com.

After our invigorating ride, we dashed back to Hotel Duval to shower and then drove across town to Cypress Restaurant, which is one of Tallahassee’s

trendier foodie haunts with a sophisticated, artsy vibe (www.cypressrestaurant.com). It had been nearly a decade since we last dined here, and the food was as good as we had remembered. After dinner we went to Tallahassee’s legendary Bradfordville Blues Club (www.bradfordvilleblues.com), which is unlike any place I’ve ever been. This hidden gem is steeped in history and cornfields: it is located in the boondocks thirty-five miles northwest of downtown. Getting there is part of the adventure. If you don’t have a DD (designated driver), chip in for a cab (City Taxi: 850-562-4222; www.taxitallahassee.com). I promise you, it’s worth it!

We rode nearly an hour, then exited onto a dark, hilly pig trail that unfolded into a field with huge live oaks. After parking, we made our way to the lowslung cinderblock building with funky Christmas tree lights. This is the real deal: a no-frills juke joint that traces its history as far back as the 1930s— or earlier—when African American blues musicians traveled the Chitlin’ Circuit, a string of safe performance venues during segregation. A historic marker stands outside the club recognizing the BBC as one V IE Z INE .C OM | 127

of only ten—and Florida’s only—existing clubs on the historic Mississippi Blues Trail outside of the state of Mississippi. Except for occasional weeknight appearances, the BBC is open weekends from 10:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m. and always features different touring acts. Because your ticket guarantees you a seat, tickets are intentionally limited. Be sure to reserve in advance before making the long drive.

We walked inside the one-room dive and sat in the midst of an eclectic mix ranging from graying hippies to young professionals. Gleaming from the electric-blue painted walls and tabletops are funky, hand-painted portraits of renowned blues royalty who have graced the BBC’s stage. When Andy T and Nick Nixon’s five-piece ensemble started playing, I knew we were in for a rare treat—and, man, was I right! They rivaled any Chicago blues band that I had ever heard.

The next morning before leaving town, we heeded the advice of an in-the-know foodie and ate a scrumptious Sunday brunch at Mockingbird Cafe (www.mockingbirdtallahassee.com), which is located between Hotel Duval and Interstate 10.

Reluctantly, we bid farewell to the Capital City but vowed to return soon and often for more “Wild Tally” weekends. Then we cranked up our new souvenir CD and sped away “topless,” with the wind whipping through our hair and the stereo jamming to the blues.

Kim Duke-Layden is an international adventurer whose motto is “I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my bucket list!” She lives at Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort in Miramar Beach, Florida, with her husband, John, and in between adventures, she writes for VIE. You can drop her a line at Kim@viezine.com.

During the band’s break, we walked next door, where a hungry crowd had gathered around Ms. Gracie’s counter for fresh fried catfish. On chilly nights, when huge bonfires are built, bands are known to hold impromptu jam sessions under the stars.

We returned inside for the band’s sizzling second set, and before we knew it, we had closed the house down.

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