A-mag – Amsterdam Magazine: Vol 3, No. 5

CITY OF TALENT Vol 3 NO 5 €3.50

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SIGHTS & SOUNDS COMPLETE LISTINGS DANCING & DINING ART & FASHION SEP & OCT 2015

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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A little more room, a lot more comfort You’ll be amazed what extra legroom and a seat that reclines more can do for your journey. Get comfortable with Economy Comfort, available on all KLM flights.

Visit klm.com/economycomfort for more information.

Open from 5 September

125,000 sunflowers on Museumplein!

Join us to celebrate the opening of the new Entrance Hall on 5 and 6 September.

Check vangoghmuseum.com/opening for more information.

Van Gogh engages you.

“Fantastic New Museum - State of the Art” - tripadvisor

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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 3 N0 5 SEP & OCT 2015

SUPER BABIES

P.06 WHAT’S NEW?

City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE Amsterdam has a flair for discovering and growing young artistic talent. Learn more about the city as a breeding ground and meet some of its protégés.

P.19 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Talking about talent: Unseen showcases the latest in photography, Fringe thinks the city is a stage and our critics’ other picks of the best exhibitions, concerts and events.

P.33 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood watch: Museum Quarter; plus the hottest new shops, the tastiest food trends and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

P.62 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; once upon a time in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out; colophon.

P.49 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

STAY IN TOUCH: iamsterdam.com facebook.com/iamsterdam twitter.com/iamsterdam youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

WANT TO ADVERTISE? T: 020 702 6180 E: partner@iamsterdam.com

©MAEVDKROGT

CONTENTS

Incubators, seed capital, angel investors, maturity: these are not terms relating to human fertility as you might expect; they belong to the world of start-ups. It’s a vocabulary that you are bound to hear more and more often in cafés and on terraces around here. Amsterdam is one of the few European cities best equipped to attract these new economic stars. As you sip a koffie verkeerd in one of the many local coffee houses, a new company may well be born at the table right next to yours.

If you’re a sceptic, you might think that ‘start-up’ is just a fancy word for a company in its infancy, but there’s more to it than that. The start-up economy is an ecosystem where money and ideas continually flirt in the hope of eventually conceiving super babies. Even if the babies never grow up – or turn out not to be so super after all – that process in itself generates enough economic activity to require scores of lawyers, bankers and tailors, not to mention litres of coffee, to be worth its while.

The start-up economy is all about attracting and growing talent and that’s exactly what Amsterdam seems to be doing right. And it’s not just entrepreneurial talent. Long before the invention of the start-up, Amsterdam attracted cultural, sporting and scientific talent. The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra with its world-renowned home has been a magnet for musicians from all over the world. Likewise, since the days of Johan Cruyff, Amsterdam’s football club Ajax has been a veritable talent factory.

Amsterdam’s universities have created an innovation machine in Amsterdam Science Park, where start-up Quantis ‘commercialises rainbow colour brightly emitting silicon nanoparticles for LEDs’, made from ordinary sand! Talk about added value.

If you’re visiting Amsterdam, we hope our cover article (starting on page 10) will inspire you enough to bring your talent here.

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OPENING

What’s new? (in town)

All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

sep & oct 2015

‘SO EXCITED TO BE IN AMSTERDAM. WHAT A CITY. ONE OF MY FAVOURITES ON EARTH.’ GRAMMY-NOMINATED BT (AKA BRIAN WAYNE TRANSEAU) AWARDS SOME PLAUDITS OF HIS OWN.

text Mark Smith

AGEING FANTASTICALLY One of Amsterdam’s most celebrated media exports is celebrating its tenth birthday this year, despite looking as sharp as the day it was born.

Fantastic Man, the much-copied biannual style bible whose left-field approach to fashion shoots and interviews has attracted big-name cover stars including David Beckham and Tom Ford, is marking its first decade with a characteristically good-looking coffee table book published with Phaidon. www.fantasticman.com

BACK IN THE FRAME Six valuable paintings, stolen in 1972 from outside a storage depot in Amsterdam, have been found at a British auction house and are to be returned to their rightful hangings at the Amsterdam Museum. Paul Spies, the museum’s director, spoke of his relief at the surprise re-emergence of the art haul – a collection of mid- to late-19th-century paintings in a contemporary European style – after employees of the Gorringes auction house in Lewes, West Sussex, cross referenced the works against a database of stolen art. The haul is thought to have been sold to an unwitting pensioner by a door-to-door salesman. It includes ‘A Harp Player’ by the Belgian painter Charles van Beveren and ‘The Death of General Hans Willem Van Aylva’, painted

by Charles Rochussen.

GAGA FOR SCULPTURE Take a closer look at that other-worldly protuberance skulking between the elm trees in Amsterdam’s manicured Zuidas district. This cartoonish bronze sculpture by the Brooklyn-based artist KAWS had the grand honour of serving as a frame to a certain Grammy-winning chanteuse in her Kermit dress finery. Yes, earlier in the summer, none other than Lady Gaga was snapped contemplating the monumental works of the ARTZUID sculpture route after her performance at the North Sea Jazz Festival. Apparently, the singer was particularly enamoured of ‘Ardenflirt’, a fittingly glittery 2008 work by the American abstract expressionist John Chamberlain, and she happily posed adjacent to it for the, erm, paparazzi. The sculpture trail, which incorporates works shipped in especially from all around the world, runs until 22 September. www.artzuid.nl

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‘LOST IN THE MIDDLE OF AMSTERDAM ON A PEDALO.’ NINA NESBITT SHOWS US POP STARS ARE JUST LIKE ME AND YOU!

‘THANKS FOR HAVING US, DUTCHIES. DOEI!’

JUNIOR COMPANY, LOLLAPALOOZA © ANGELA STERLING

CHANNING TATUM, MATT BOMER AND THE CAST OF MAGIC MIKE XXL TRADE THEIR POLES FOR POLDERS.

AISLE BE DAMMED Brace yourselves for the ‘day marriage’ debate. A service in Amsterdam’s increasingly hipsterish De Pijp district is offering visitors and residents a taste of wedded bliss, with none of the ensuing commitment. For upwards of €75, the enterprising folk of Wed & Walk will dress you in a white veil or tailcoats and preside over a sham ceremony complete with meaningful speeches. www.trouwenvoor1dag.nl

EPIC FAIL If at first you don’t succeed, take to the microphone and tell a room full of strangers about your most humiliating experiences. That’s the ethos behind F*ckup Nights, a global movement whereby stories of failed businesses and projects are told, questioned and celebrated. The next meeting of the recently-formed Amsterdam chapter happens in September, and you can sign up on Facebook… all being well.

GOING PLACES Amsterdam-based satnav pioneer TomTom already offers drivers the option of having instructions dictated to them by Homer Simpson, but its latest casting was sourced closer to home. In a contest resembling another Dutch export, TV talent contest The Voice, actor and producer Perry Mulder has been chosen as the newest TomTom recruit. Perry hails from Hilversum, the media hub that’s just 30km from Amsterdam.

Hurray for ‘Hillywood’! www.tomtom.com

SAFE AS (CANAL) HOUSES A recent report published by the Economist Intelligence Unit has found that Amsterdam is among the very safest cities in the world, ranked fifth on the global index, and second in Europe. The report takes into account more than the vulnerability of an unattended wallet or laptop; it also looks at safety in terms of health, reliable infrastructure and digital security, which includes the risk of identity theft or computer viruses, and whether or not the city has a dedicated cyber-security team.

Health security refers to a city’s air and water quality as well as the level of health-care options available to inhabitants. Infrastructure security involves how robust a city’s buildings and roads are, and how well a place can respond to natural disasters. www.safecities.economist.com

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sep & oct 2015

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

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‘I LOVE AMSTERDAM. THE CITY IS VIBRANT AND ALIVE. IT’S FRESH AND SO OPEN.’

‘AT AMSTERDAM #SCHIPHOL AIRPORT. IS THAT A SOLAR POWERED BUS I SEE? FIRST TIME EVER I’VE HOPED FOR BUS RATHER THAN STRAIGHT OFF PLANE.’

AMERICAN VIBRAPHONIST STEFON HARRIS BRINGS SOME GOOD VIBES TO TWITTER.

BRITAIN’S MOST NOTORIOUS SPIN DOCTOR ALASTAIR CAMPBELL IS ON MESSAGE.

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© CHARLIE RUBIN, KOPEIKIN GALLERY

© DENNIS BOUMAN

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THAT INKING FEELING

TOP 5 to do

ERNESTO ‘CHE’ GUEVARA. HAVANA, CUBA, 1963 © RENE BURRI / MAGNUM PHOTOS

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By her own admission, American popstrel Ariana Grande hasn’t been making great decisions lately (just Google her name and the word ‘donut’) but she did at least exhibit restraint during the Amsterdam leg of her honeymoon tour. Ariana delighted fans at the Ziggo Dome by displaying a sizeable ‘amsterdayum’ tattoo on the inside of her left arm, before revealing it was just pen work.

If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more this issue.

1 UNSEEN PHOTO FAIR Photography, photography everywhere. The now illustrious photo festival of the Westergasfabriek takes over the city with rare open doors and hidden treasures. With hundreds of artists represented, it’s a picture-perfect event for everyone.

18-20 September and Westergasfabriek other locations www.unseenamsterdam.com

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2 VALTIFEST

4 MAGNUM

The wild child of Amsterdam’s festivals returns to NDSM-werf with its open-minded and open-armed spirit, and its flurry of awesome DJs.

Take a look at the secret moments between the famous moments. For the first time, Magnum unveils a large collection of its legendary contact sheets.

5 September NDSM-werf www.valtifest.nl

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3 AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT ADE is the week where all the electronica in the world meets up in Amsterdam, and the city’s heartbeat goes binary.

14-18 October Various locations www.amsterdam-dance-event.nl

11 September-9 December Foam, Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org

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5 FRINGE FESTIVAL For ten days Amsterdam becomes a deranged ode to the arts of the stage: theatre, dance, performance arts at their best, and... their kookiest.

3-13 September Various locations www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl

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‘AMSTERDAM IS THE LOOSEST PLACE I’VE EVER BEEN TO. 48 HOURS THERE AND MY HEAD IS IN THE SHED. BATH AND BED FOR ME.’ SOAP ACTOR MICHAEL PARR JUST WANTS A WASH.

WORKING HOLIDAY

IJ, ROBOT? Dutch robotics suffered an almighty sporting blow earlier this year when the national robot football team (sample player name: robodinho) crashed out of the robocop final at the cold hands of its Chinese counterpart, but there’s more heartening news closer to home.

In fact, if a Dutch start-up gets its way, plans to build the world’s first 3D-printed bridge could be well underway by the time you read this article. Using robotic printers that can ‘draw’ steel structures in thin air, the engineering company mx3d plans to ‘print’ a bridge over one of Amsterdam’s canals as soon as a suitable site can be agreed with the city council. The technique negates the need for scaffolding, as the robot arm uses the very structure it’s printing as support. www.mx3d.com

LASTING LEGACY Joep Lange, the renowned HIV/AIDS researcher who died in the MH17 aviation disaster last year, will not be forgotten in Amsterdam, particularly now that plans have been announced to open a medical institute in his name. Lange, a professor of infectious diseases, was considered a pioneer in the field of AIDS prevention, having been one of the first to understand the potential of combination therapy.

Whereas desk-workers in other parts of the world have to make do with a solitary pot plant for greenery, members of the Netherlands’ office population now have the option of escaping to the countryside without even losing their Wi-Fi signal, thanks to Amsterdam innovator Tom van de Beek. His kantoorkaravaan (literally, ‘office caravan’) project is a retro-styled mobile workspace, fully equipped with sustainable gizmos such as solar-powered coffee makers, that’s currently travelling between the country’s national parks. ‘These times of technological innovation and wireless connectivity provide us with the ultimate combination: getting back to nature and self-sufficiency in terms of food and energy, and still being able to do our day-to-day business,’ Van de Beek told fast company. www.kantoorkaravaan.nl

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PART I UP CLOSE

city of talent

HOW TALENT GROWS IN AMSTERDAM

From high tech to high culture, the city’s star is on the rise.

OFFICE SPACE With StartupAmsterdam, the city is showing that it is aware of a new dynamism in the economy: real innovations no longer come from large companies but from start-ups. In the B.Amsterdam building (pictured), old and new coexist: the rambling former office of IBM, once the largest IT company in the world, has been stripped of its corporate fixtures to make room for dozens of innovative start-ups including Yippie! and Wildcard as well as enabling companies like Startupbootcamp and the New York Code + Design Academy. And the old guard is paying attention: Heineken and even IBM, which left the premises over a decade ago, have rented space here.

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What is Amsterdam’s talent? Attracting talent. With hundreds of courses, start-ups, laboratories and new initiatives, Amsterdam is an undeniable magnet. text Jowi Schmitz

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A HOTBED FOR TALENT

ake a closer look at this wealth of talent, though, and you discover layer upon layer of creativity, inspiration, fresh thinking and dynamic entrepreneurs. We uncover just a handful of them.

START UP AND GO A start-up is more than just a young business. It’s a company that researches, produces or supplies a new product or service.

Tech and digital top the list of start-up endeavours, but innovations range as wide as smart waste management and alternative energy sources.

Start-ups are the new holy grail of the economy; every city wants them. And Amsterdam rightly qualifies as one of Europe’s start-up capitals. It is hard to say exactly what the attraction is, but Amsterdam as a place to live seems to be an important factor. You can start a company anywhere, so why not in a cool city? Most successful Dutch start-ups were grown along Amsterdam’s canals.

The availability of capital and knowledge also helps. That’s where the angel investors and incubators come in. Two home-grown examples, the local branch of the Danish Startupbootcamp and Dutch

Rockstart have together invested almost €50 million in as many as a hundred startups. Earlier this year, Amsterdam announced its ambition to become one of Europe’s top three start-up cities, and earmarked €5 million to achieve that ambition. It also launched a programme called StartupAmsterdam, which aims to bring together talent, knowledge and capital. Innovation, according to the municipality, no longer comes from multinationals but from start-ups; they are thus vital for the city – a reality that IBM has already turned to its advantage with B.Amsterdam, an old office building of around 16,000m2 in Slotervaart that was made available for start-ups. The building is almost full, and a second location is being considered for next year. IBM continues to occupy part of the previously disused premises, plugging into what has been called ‘the hottest start-up ecosystem and co-working space in Amsterdam’.

BLOOD, SWEAT AND HEARING AIDS Amsterdam is more than just Golden Age good looks, it also has brains. The University of Amsterdam and Vrije Universiteit (VU) are ranked among the 100 best universities in the world. Scientists from

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PART I UP CLOSE

Amsterdam are highly sought after, and the annual Amsterdam Science & Innovation Award attracts a steady flow of fantastic entries, from the early diagnosis of Alzheimer’s disease to a CSI-like method for improving bloodstain pattern analysis. This year’s winners, incidentally, were VU’s Paul Govaerts and Martine Coene, for their idea to restore hearing using cochlear implant programming.

Meanwhile, students at the Amsterdam Conservatory work their musical fingers to the bone to reach the top. When it comes to art, (musical) theatre, film, photography, fashion and dance, Amsterdam also ranks high: The National Ballet has launched its own training programme, and the Amsterdam Theatre School attracts aspiring

city of talent thespians from far and wide. Photography academies are a pipeline of exciting talent.

Drama school graduates from other cities are often quick to pack their bags and move to the capital. They find positions at cultural institutions around the city, including Frascati Theatre behind Dam Square. This is the workplace of passionate artistic director Mark Timmer, who himself came from Eindhoven. He speaks from experience when he says: ‘The artistic inspiration of the countryside will definitely work for some, but a place where like-minded people meet, where you can hone your skills and immerse yourself in the country’s beating heart, that’s priceless. Amsterdam is the cultural capital of the Netherlands, and one of the world’s cultural hotspots.’

> Hrafnhildur Helgadottir (28) is an Icelandic sculptor and artist based in Amsterdam. She studied at the Gerrit Rietveld Academy and the Sandberg Institute. She is a member of the creative Hardcore Collective.

© MAGNUS ANDERSEN

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rafnhildur: ‘The evening I arrived in Amsterdam, aged 19 and fresh off the boat, I tried to blow out that little flame in the white cabinet in the kitchen. In Iceland, warm water comes out of the ground; I had no idea what a gas water boiler was. Luckily I didn’t succeed.

Amsterdam is just the right size for me: it’s not so big that you constantly feel like you’re missing something, but it’s quiet enough to work. It’s definitely influenced me as an artist. In fact, I think it influences every artist: you quickly start making works that just fit on your bike. No bigger than that, especially if you live here, because they won’t fit up the stairs either.

Where does my inspiration come from?

Hmm. Music, sometimes, and now I think about it, lectures. I go to a lot of lectures, preferably given by speakers with a monotonous voice, which starts to bore me.

That’s when inspiration strikes.

My Dutch isn’t very good, but I always went to schools where everyone spoke English. Honestly, I think it’s quite nice that I don’t understand everyone. I can get quite restless if I’m on a bus in Iceland and understand everything. Perhaps there’s also inspiration in that – that I can choose what I hear. I can read Dutch though, and if I concentrate I can understand it too.

When I’m drunk, I speak it pretty well.

Actually, don’t write that down, it sounds really bad!’

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‘I go to a lot of lectures, preferably given by speakers with a monotonous voice, which starts to bore me. That’s when inspiration strikes.’

Robert van Hoesel (22) is the co-founder of Young Creators and Crowded, a webbased platform that allows users to design and build their own community.

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© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

obert: ‘I left school at 18 because I knew exactly what I didn’t want: to study for years. I wanted practical experience. I actually already had it, because I’d done a lot of online marketing for different companies. I first co-founded Young Creators, a community for ambitious, creative teenagers and students across the Netherlands. I moved to Amsterdam to do that, which in itself wasn’t easy because life here is expensive. The big advantage is that virtually every potential client lives here too.

So to get to a business meeting, you just have to jump on a bike. In my view, the best start-ups are the ones someone started in their bedroom in their spare time and turned into a success. What you see more often are chaotic start-ups: someone has an idea, rounds up a group of people, invests a lot of money and only then realises they should have done things differently.

My own start-up, Crowded, was a mix of both. Young Creators had a busy Facebook page, but we actually wanted our own community. We started building it and then thought that there must be other people out there looking for the same thing. That’s how Getcrowded.co started. Before Crowded even officially existed, we had our first client: ING bank. That gives you the validation you need.’

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PART I UP CLOSE

city of talent

Guitarist and singer Jesse Koch (21) is a first-year pop student at the Amsterdam Conservatory. He previously studied at the Herman Brood Academy in Utrecht where his band The Silverfaces, winner of the Amsterdam Pop Prize, was also formed. The band will shortly record their first studio LP, which follows their live EP titled FC Walvisch Sessions.

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© WOUTER VELLEKOOP

esse: ‘Talent is that you get it, that you hear how something should sound and are able to reproduce it. I started making music at 14. I was a skateboarder and that meant punk music.

I had a band in secondary school and, well, it got a bit out of hand.

When I started thinking about college, this was my reasoning: I really want to make music full time. I can study and play music on the side. Or I can play full time.

The latter seemed more logical. The conservatory doesn’t only teach you to play well, you also learn composition, theory, you build a network. You might not get a gig in Marco Borsato’s band as soon as you graduate – assuming you want to play in Marco Borsato’s band, of course – but you have something to offer.

I have The Silverfaces and want to continue playing with them. We rehearse at least once a week and have performed on the TV programme De Wereld Draait Door and at the Zwarte Cross and Paaspop festivals.

It would be fantastic to sell out a club tour. And tour abroad, of course.’

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Chef Freek van Noortwijk (26), chef Guillaume de Beer (27) and manager Johanneke van Iwaarden (27) run Guts & Glory, a concept restaurant opened seven months ago on Utrechtsestraat. They initially only served chicken and have now moved on to fish. new things.’

Guillaume: ‘But that also means we have to stay good even after the hype has died down. We want to be relaxed, not too formal, to offer quality for a reasonable price.’

Freek: ‘Occasionally we’ll get a group in and one of them doesn’t want fish. Then we say: it’s fish or nothing.’

Guillaume: ‘It feels pretty cool to say that. But it’s also quite nerve-wracking because you’re excluding people.’

Johanneke: ‘That’s why this could only work in Amsterdam: there’s luckily a big enough pool of people who understand you want to stay true to your concept.’

Guillaume: ‘In Breda, where we all come from, we wouldn’t have been able to do this. This is the best city anyway, for every concept. For everything, actually.’

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

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uillaume: ‘Our boss at restaurant Daalder wanted to start a chicken-and-egg restaurant. Eggs during the day and chicken in the evening.

I wanted something we could channel our creativity into. So we came up with the idea of doing a chicken season and now fish. Next up are beef and pork.’

Freek: ‘But we’re not planning to work our way through every animal.’

Guillaume: ‘We won’t eventually get round to giraffe. Although… a rhino.’

Johanneke: ‘A season of Italian cuisine is an option though.’

Guillaume: ‘We’re actually interactive. We respond to the feedback from our guests. We’re perfecting the concept as we go along.’

Johanneke: ‘I do think that in Amsterdam anything hip is full for the first few months. People like to try

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PART I UP CLOSE

city of talent

Mitch Wolterink (25) studied at Amsterdam’s Theatre School and has performed in several musicals since graduating. Rent, in which he plays the role of Angel, starts a second run at M-Lab on 8 October.

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© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

itch: ‘Amsterdam was my home even before I lived here. From the age of about ten I stayed with my aunt and uncle nearly every weekend. They showed me around the city and took me to my first theatre performance, The Wizard of Oz by the National Youth Musical Theatre. As a kid, I thought the film version with Judy Garland was awesome. When I saw the show live on stage with lots of singing and dancing children in the cast, with the scenery I’d always tried to recreate on a sheet, I immediately thought, “I want to do that!”

We were told it was unusual to accept children from outside Amsterdam. But I was so insistent that I was allowed to audition and got in. From then on I commuted between Hilversum, where I lived, and Amsterdam after school. At first my mum took me and later I went on my own by train. Every time I got on the train, I couldn’t wait to get there.’

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‘YOU HAVE TO STAND THERE IF YOU HAVE TO STAND THERE.’ Jeffrey de Lange (17) is the goalkeeper for Ajax Youth.

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effrey is a born goalkeeper.

His father was a goalkeeper before him; it’s in his genes.

And for a born goalkeeper, Ajax’s Youth Academy is the best place to develop. Research conducted in 2013 showed the club to be the most prolific producer of talent in Europe.

Jeffrey was scouted aged just seven.

Now 17, he has been at the Youth Academy for a year. In the mornings he does strength training with his teammates, then goes to class to study for a vocational diploma.

In the afternoons he can be found outside doing what he loves most: the keeper’s training. ‘The challenge of goalkeeping is what I like about

Find more Amsterdam talent: • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Kochxbos gallery: www.kochxbos.nl Affordable Art Fair (29 Oct-1 Nov): www.affordableartfair.com Unseen Photo Fair (18-20 Sep): www.unseenamsterdam.com The new Dutch photographers’ blog: www.newdawnpaper.nl At the music conservatories (which regularly give free concerts): www.ahk.nl/conservatorium/actueel/agenda/ M-Lab musical laboratory: www.m-lab.nl Amsterdam Smart City: www.amsterdamsmartcity.com The Amsterdam Science and Innovation Awards: www.ixa.nl Frascati Theatre: www.frascatitheater.nl Fringe Festival (3-13 Sep): www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl TedX Amsterdam: www.tedx.amsterdam StartupAmsterdam: www.startupamsterdam.org Amsterdam Science Park: www.amsterdamsciencepark.nl

it,’ he says, adding in words reminiscent of Johan Cruyff, arguably Ajax’s greatest and most quotable player, ‘You have to stand there if you have to stand there.’

Playing for Ajax means giving your best every day. After successfully being scouted, Jeffrey now has to take the next step of becoming a professional keeper, turning his hobby into a career. He sees the same ambition among his teammates. ‘Everyone is passionate about football. We all want to reach the top. The good thing is that my goal is everyone’s goal: if I do my best, the team gets better and in turn we all get better.

We push each other to perform and improve.’

Het Grachtenhuis Herengracht 386

Tram 1, 2, 5 – stop Koningsplein

Book your tickets at museumo hecanals.com

Come listen to the story of our canals nr. 42 on City Card map

Museum of the Canals

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ENTERTAINMENT

‘WHAT I LOVE ABOUT AMSTERDAM IS ITS BOHEMIAN, CREATIVE, NONCONFORMIST SPIRIT.’

Claire Parker about the surprising diversity of cultures in our small city.

UNSEEN PHOTO FAIR MUNCH : VAN GOGH FRINGE FESTIVAL 13 QUESTIONS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS UNSEEN TODD HIDO Todd Hido is not a newcomer to the world of photography, but getting a sneak peek at his latest work is like opening Christmas presents early. After his mysterious series of suburban homes at night, he lets human beings into the frame, and the narrative takes on an almost unbearable density. We want to know who Khrystyna is, and why the crumpled sheets, and why the dark snowy roads and forlorn looks in vintage cars – where is the story taking us? A Burnt Child Seeks the Flame is a selection of 30 works on display at Unseen Photo Fair – but a few days earlier, at the opening of the exhibit, Gallery Alex Daniels-Reflex will treat us to a book signing and even more of the artist’s cinematic photography.

12 SEPTEMBER, 17:00-19:00 Galerie Alex Daniels-Reflex Weteringschans 79 www.reflexamsterdam.com 18-20 SEPTEMBER Unseen Photo Fair Westergasfabriek www.unseenamsterdam.com

ASIA IN AMSTERDAM

As the Dutch East India Company started travelling to exotic lands in the 17th century, the taste and fascination for foreign objects grew. Dutch homes filled with boatloads of Chinese porcelain, fine lacquers and silks from Japan, ornate jewels and dark woods from India. Rich merchants and nobles even commissioned portraits of themselves surrounded by their strange luxuries and treasures, the marks of their accomplished prosperity. This unusual side of the Golden Age makes for a monumental exhibit at the Rijksmuseum, with items on loan from many countries including Russia, France, England and Spain.

17 OCTOBER-17 JANUARY 2016 Rijksmuseum, Museumstraat 1 www.rijksmuseum.nl

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© TODD HIDO DETAIL OF ‘SELECTIONS FROM A SURVEY - KHRYSTYNA'S WORLD’ COURTESY OF GALERIE ALEX DANIELS - REFLEX AMSTERDAM AND TODD HIDO.

PART II

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unseen photo fair

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

See the unseen In four short years, Unseen has grown into an acclaimed international photography fair. Based since its creation in the Westergasfabriek, a former gas plant, the festival this year is extending its reach with a first foray into the city.

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text Anna van Leeuwen

F UNSEEN PHOTO FAIR 18-20 September UNSEEN FESTIVAL 18-27 September www.unseenamsterdam.com

our years ago, Foam Photography Museum, Vandejon Creative Agency and Platform A established Unseen Photo Fair. It promised high quality, an international perspective and an environment that appealed to younger photography fans. The fair would distinguish itself with what organisers called ‘a festival flair’ as well as a focus on unseen work by new and established artists.

For three years it delivered on its promises. In partnership with Foam Magazine,

selected ‘talents’ featured in the previous year’s editions were given a place at the fair while galleries provided ‘premieres’ in the form of photos that had never before been exhibited. Original programming and a base in Westergasfabriek, a former gasworks west of Central Station, provided the necessary festival flair. The average visitor was young and came prepared to ooh and aah.

Some novice collectors also got excited about buying, fulfilling one of the fair’s goals: to popularise art ownership.

After three successful editions, it might be tempting to keep trotting out the same formula. But the organisers of Unseen have avoided that pitfall by taking a different approach this year. Unseen Festival is an extended programme that hopes to get visitors even more excited about photography, while encouraging the international art community to explore the city. Last year, almost a quarter of Unseen’s approximately 23,000 visitors came from abroad. Dozens of museums, galleries, academies

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Festivals highlights

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 FREE LUNCH CONCERTS AT MUZIEKTHEATER MUZIEKTHEATER

SUFJAN STEVENS

VONDELPARK OPEN AIR THEATRE

Every Tuesday from 12:30 to 13:00, the Dutch Philharmonic Orchestra performs free concerts in the foyer of the Dutch National Opera & Ballet. To celebrate the 25th anniversary of this grand musical tradition, the Muziektheater is offering very special concerts this year, including a handful accompanied by performances by the National Ballet.

Some concerts can be followed by a guided tour, such as the Brahms clarinet trio on 29 September, or Vaughan Williams’ ‘Songs of Travel’ baritone/piano duo on 20 October.

TUESDAYS 12:30-13:00 Muziektheater Amsterdam, Amstel 3 www.operaballet.nl

DETAIL OF PANORAMA CARLAND, 2015 © JAN HOEK/GALERIE RON MANDOS

 SUFJAN STEVENS AT CARRÉ

and project spaces are taking part, with both big players (Stedelijk Museum, EYE) and smaller institutions (Huize Frankendael in Amsterdam-Oost) programming photography during the tenday event.

A number of private collections will also be open to the public. Billed as ‘Hidden Treasures’, they will display photography in unexpected and often unknown locations. One of these is Lies of Lies, at Het Huis met de Hoofden, an exhibit of the work of 18 Korean artists,

which also includes other mediums such as video and sculpture, and examines the concepts of truth and trust in images. Unseen has proven from the outset that photography does not have to be two-dimensional. Buy a work at the fair and you could find yourself the owner of a collage, an embroidery or a sculpture. One of the fair’s notable newcomers is Letha Wilson, who experiments with aluminium and concrete. The results are arresting, and… extremely heavy.

Another monumental work

is Jan Hoek’s ‘Panorama Carland’, a 112-metre long, 2.2-metre high collage inspired by the artist’s memories of his travels to Ghana.

It is so enormous that it will be presented outside on the Westergasterrein.

The selection is sure to give both novice and experienced aficionados their fill of visual thrills and bliss, and some lucky ones will be bringing their favourite works home – even if it means in some cases a bit of a struggle with baggage allowance.

The soulful singer-songwriter graces Amsterdam’s magnificent Theatre Carré with two performances of his new album, Carrie & Lowell, which has been greeted with widespread critical acclaim.

Named after his mother and stepfather, this collection of 11 songs show a clear return to his roots, where he marries his poetic voice and quirky folksy instruments (guitar, banjo and horn) to sing of life and death and love – and his mother’s struggles with substance abuse and schizophrenia – without sinking into lament or making conspicuous detours into electronica.

23 & 24 SEPTEMBER Theatre Carré, Amstel 115-125 www.carre.nl

 VONDELPARK OPEN AIR THEATRE Every summer since 1974, the Vondelpark Open Air Theatre has honoured its long-standing theatrical tradition by presenting a programme jam-packed with festivals, dance, cabaret, jazz, children’s theatre, stand-up comedy and all genres of music. If that weren’t enough, pop-up food stands, markets, special events and one-off festivals are also going on around the Music Pavilion and the Vondelpark Stage during the entire month of September. Best of all: entrance is free, even though donations are of course appreciated.

ALL WEEKENDS IN SEPTEMBER Vondelpark Open Air Theatre www.openluchttheater.nl

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munch : van gogh

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Munch & Van Gogh, titans of despair

For the first time, the redesigned Van Gogh Museum brings together the titans of psychological painting in one exhibition.

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text Joke van der Wey

EDVARD MUNCH, ‘THE SCREAM’, 1893-1910, MUNCH MUSEUM

F

ew images in history are as iconic as Edvard Munch’s ‘The Scream’. The existential desperation of it is so powerful and recognisable, that a few simple brushstrokes in the shape of an upside-down pear will evoke it and its connotation of ‘angst’ almost universally.

Entire libraries have been written about Munch’s painting and the image has been parodied and printed on everything from T-shirts to neckties.

Munch’s works reflect his mental state: he was pathologically depressed and had suffered a severe nervous breakdown. But wait, didn’t we have an artist in the Netherlands who also fits that description? That’s right: Vincent van Gogh had the same gift for portraying his own desperation and existential failure. The work of the redheaded Dutchman underwent the same iconisation and popularisation (think ‘Starry Night’ oven mitts) as Munch’s. The similarities between the two are so obvious that many visitors to the Van Gogh Museum ask why ‘The Scream’ is not in their collection.

It was just a matter of time before someone would bring the two titans together in one exhibition. In September, Munch : Van Gogh will reopen the completely and spectacularly redesigned Van Gogh Museum.

The careers of Van Gogh and Munch started in the 1880s. They knew the same people and both were inspired by Gauguin. Both artists travelled to Paris, the epicentre of impressionist art in those days, on numerous occasions.

It is documented that they visited the same exhibition in 1899 so there’s a good chance that they actually met, although there is no proof of that. We do know, however, that they were familiar with each other’s work.

Little could the men know how later generations would appreciate their work or value it, for that matter: works by Munch and Van Gogh are both in the astronomical price range of well over €100 million. Both painted emotionally charged portraits and scenes, and both their works go straight to the heart. Whether you are Danish or Dutch or Japanese, an art connoisseur or a day-tripping tourist, the human emotions, anxieties and uncertainties in these pictures are universally recognisable.

PROTESTANT Van Gogh and Munch shared a Protestant background. Munch’s father was a strict Protestant

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don’t miss these CINEKID

Westergasfabriek www.cinekid.nl

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DE STILLE KRACHT Toneelgroep, the largest theatre company in the Netherlands, is focusing this new season on the vulnerability of man. Set in Java during colonial times, De Stille Kracht (the Hidden Force), is a tale that addresses grand universal themes. A Dutch governor lives under the illusion of his Western dominance, but finds himself slowly taken by the tides of unforeseen forces: his wife’s adulterous affairs, the cunning of his local political rivals and the power of Eastern culture. This adaptation of Louis Couperus’ masterpiece will have one special performance featuring English surtitles on 8 October.

© JAN VERSWEYVELD

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VINCENT VAN GOGH, ‘THE BRIDGE AT TRINQUETAILLE’, 1888, PRIVATE COLLECTION

MUNCH : VAN GOGH 25 September-17 January 2016 Van Gogh Museum, Paulus Potterstraat 7 (Museumplein) www.vangoghmuseum.nl

15-23 OCTOBER

8 OCTOBER Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein 26 www.tga.nl

DISCOVERY FESTIVAL For nine years, Discovery Festival has been mixing an interesting cocktail of new music, new arts and new science, with a high-quality programme that reaches out to young scientists, artists, thinkers and creators, who keep an eye on cutting-edge innovations, scientific experiments and technology – but also enjoy a healthy nightlife. Important questions are raised, such as ‘can we date robots’; very cool seven-feet-tall mind-reading machines are unveiled; and entire symposiums are dedicated to Occam’s beard.

Add electronic DJs, artwork and liquor to the mix, and ask who said that scientific discovery can’t be fun – or drunk?

© MAX JANSEN

doctor, Van Gogh’s father a vicar. Both men’s struggle with their religion resulted in psychiatric problems. But the degree to which their works were actually influenced by their dramatic lives is hard to say. Critics as well as popular lore have exaggerated the connection, especially in the case of Van Gogh whose life has been overdramatised in biographical films and even pop songs (such as Don Mclean’s ‘Starry, Starry Night’). The museums in Oslo and Amsterdam dedicated to Munch and Van Gogh have often expressed their wish to generate more attention for the artistic genius of the men. They deserve it.

Incidentally, the scream in the title of the painting is not coming from the two men in the background. The subject covers his ears in exasperation so as not to hear the scream piercing through nature. Go and find out why.

This ginormous festival dedicated to kids’ entertainment has been growing exponentially for 29 years, and is now an international reference in quality programming for children. While its aim is to promote the production of stimulating and educative media, Cinekid does not leave the fun at the door. With more than 100 special film and TV programmes, they don’t plop kids down on a sofa and wait for them to go glassy-eyed in front of the screen. Interaction and participation are the most important part of the festival at MediaLab, the largest interactive playground in the world: 1,200m2 with the latest games, apps, innovative tools and 3D systems, all created especially for Cinekid.

25 SEPTEMBER-4 OCTOBER

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Nemo, Oosterdok 2 www.discoveryfestival.nl

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

On the fringe

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For 11 wonderfully weird days, Amsterdam welcomes the Fringe Festival, a rambunctious relative of the more established and, well, serious Dutch Theatre Festival.

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text Catalina Iorga

FOR THE RESTLESS GLOBETROTTERS: AN EVENING WITH JOHN MORAN – BEST OF FRINGE NEW YORK Dubbed ‘a modern-day Mozart’ by the Boston Globe, American avant-garde composer John Moran has been on the road since 2008. For this year’s Fringe, he’s prepared a brand-new show filled with trippy musical ‘portraits’ of the individuals encountered on his travels.

8-11 Sep @ Frascati 3, Nes 63

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FOR THE SCI-FI ROMANTICS: STRANGE DIVIDE The Orange Tea Theatre uses technology with a touch of dark humour to examine advances in artificial intelligence. The show tells the stories of Alice and Beth: one is a biotech magnate who deals with creations that start having a mind of their own, while the other is slowly suffocating in a suburban setting threatened by climate change.

3-4 Sep, 12-13 Sep @ Het Amsterdams Theaterhuis, Marius van Bouwdijk Bastiaansestraat 54

© CORNE VAN DER STELT

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D

uring this year’s Fringe, 80 Dutch and international theatre groups will take 40 locations across the city by storm with a fun, exciting and sometimes downright bizarre mix of performance art, music, theatre and dance. Luckily, nearly half of the performances are suited for nonDutch speakers. Not sure what to pick?

We’ve put together a brief guide to help you make the most of the 2015 edition.

FOR THE SPONTANEOUS SPIRITS: THE PATCHWORK ODYSSEY With a little help from the audience, every night the Patchwork Theatre creates a new version of Homer’s epic, The Odyssey, using a patchwork quilt that covers the work’s 24 books. The way the story in each book is told depends on the instructions carried by a piece of fabric an audience member chooses from a basket.

3-6 Sep, 10-13 Sept @ Coco-Mat, Overtoom 89

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FOR THE BODY TALKERS: SEX Following successful runs at festival De Parade and the prestigious Felix Meritis, the Blush theatre group is bringing sexy back to the Amsterdam stage. Get ready for a noholds-barred evening exploring sex in all its forms through dynamic and dirty dancing and drag. In the words of the group’s members: ‘Sometimes you have to get dirty to feel clean again.’

3-11 SEPTEMBER Various locations www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl

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featured artist

don’t miss these AFROVIBES

‘People go to the ballet to see a fairy tale, to be taken away from their daily grind.’

Afrovibes lights up Amsterdam during four days of booming Southern African talent. For its twelfth edition, the festival chose ‘Moving in Time’ as a theme, revisiting origins and traditions but also looking towards the future. The programme is rich in contemporary dance, theatre and music performances – such as international success Quartiers Libres by Ivorian choreographer Nadia Beugre and coming-ofage play Undone by South African author Wessel Pretorius.

Afrovibes also features debates, masterclasses, exhibitions, and plenty of opportunities for cultural exchanges.

7-10 OCTOBER Compagnietheater theater www.afrovibes.nl

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MAGNUM CONTACT SHEETS Long before the advent of digital photography, photojournalists only brought along their reflex camera and a couple of rolls of film as they recorded history. Of those rolls from the Magnum photographers, we were only shown the iconic images that made the news through the generations: The Che by René Burri, Malcolm X

by Eve Arnold, and many others by Robert Capa, Henri Cartier-Bresson and the like. It is a rare treasure, this chance to see the length of the moments captured, with the discarded shots and the photographer’s notes, and to imagine the journalists behind their cameras, the reasons for their choices, and the discussions they had with editors.

IGONE DE JONGH Born: 9 September 1979 in Haarlem

Talent: Ballerina Igone de Jongh is widely considered to be the most prominent classical dancer in the Netherlands. An icon of the Dutch National Ballet, she is centre stage in most of their major productions and has danced the lead role in many classics (Swan Lake, Romeo and Juliet, Sleeping Beauty) as well as more contemporary choreographed pieces by William Forsythe and Rudi van Dantzig. She has been called Hans van Manen’s muse, and their collaboration resumes this season with Hans van Manen Live, opening on 12 September at the Dutch National Ballet.

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©ALIQUE

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© DENNIS BOUMAN

‘I think I'm at my best in Hans van Manen’s ballets. The classics are always important to me, and I always find the fun in them, one way or another – but work with Hans is a nice contrast, because we do so many different things, in so many different styles. I am very loyal to Hans, so I am always doing my best for him. If I couldn’t be in Hans’ ballets anymore, my world would collapse!’

In an interview with Gerard Mosterd for www.danspubliek.nl 12 SEPTEMBER-4 OCTOBER Dutch National Ballet, Amstel 3 www.operaballet.nl

11 SEPTEMBER-9 DECEMBER FOAM, Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org

VALTIFEST Valtifest is the wild child of Amsterdam Festivals; like many of its brothers and sisters, it promotes creativity, open-mindedness and brotherhood – but it’s not a poser and it doesn’t take itself seriously.

Set on the urban wasteland of NDSM, it describes itself as a vast collection of colorful tents (including the ‘impo-tent’ and the ‘dental assis-tent’), where everyone and everything is welcome under the sun, and under the beats of electronic DJs such as the Flexican, Mike Mago and the Sly Fox. This year’s dress code is ‘culture-clash’, and they hope for a melting pot of cowboy boots, Scottish kilts and Buddhist robes.

 & Biljmerpark-

5 SEPTEMBER NDSM-werf www.valtifest.nl

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MUIDERSLOT, ©MIKE BINK

FRANÇOIS FLAMENG, FEESTELIJKE RECEPTIE IN HET CHÂTEAU DE MALMAISON IN 1802, CA. 1894. © STATE HERMITAGE MUSEUM, ST PETERSBURG

ZERO was the art movement that came after World War II, driven by optimism and hopes for the future. Artists such as Herman de Vries, Heinz Mack and Yves Klein experimented with new mediums and materials, and revisited the concepts of fire, light, movement and space. The Stedelijk Museum presents this fascinating and thorough exhibit which honours how these avant-garde artists’ vision redefined art.

VOLENDAM Situated on the edge of the Zuiderzee, a former inland sea now separated into the IJsselmeer and Markermeer by major dykes, the authentic character and charm of small-town harbours Volendam and Marken have survived intact for centuries. The VolendamMarken Express ferry services connect the two towns.

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HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM ALEXANDER, NAPOLEON & JOSÉPHINE Until 8 November

Two powerful men and a beautiful woman: history rarely gets better than this, and Hermitage Amsterdam is putting on display more than 200 paintings, sculptures, costumes, weapons and personal items to revel in all the details of their incredible story.

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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

27

Amsterdam Dance Event Even if music is none of your business, the world's largest dance event will keep you busy (dancing). text Christiaan De Wit

W

here Miami’s Winter Music Conference serves the commercial side of dance music and Barcelona’s Sónar focuses on underground electronica, ADE covers the entire spectrum. That means you can get your mind bent in Radion on the weird analogue beats with vague house music references, spun by Ron Morelli, the most ‘punk’ figure on the scene. Also for the heads is the 25th-anniversary party of legendary UK triphop label Ninja Tune at Melkweg, where performances by Bonobo, George Fitzgerald, Leon Vynehall, Machinedrum and Romare make head nodding de rigueur.

Fans of straight-up techno should head to Studio 80, where Amsterdam-based (but internationally renowned) niche label Delsin showcases its artists with skillfully crafted, non-cheesy beats and synths. Those who like it a little harder can’t be quick enough to get their tickets for an ancient force in the local techno scene:

Awakenings. De Gashouder, the organisation’s headquarters, sees Carl Cox, The Martinez Brothers, Adam Beyer, Alan Fitzpatrick, Green Velvet, Blawan, Speedy J and Nina Kraviz play sets between 15-18 October. If waiting for drops, trance and EDM are your thing, that’s also where ADE delivers with the world’s no.1 DJ Hardwell (according to the readers of DJ Mag), playing Heineken Music Hall on 14 October. Fedde ‘Put Your Hands Up For Detroit’ Le Grand rocks the floor at Amsterdam West’s Het Sieraad two days later.

The ultimate ADE setting to see big-room DJs play their (pre-programmed) sets will no doubt be football stadium Amsterdam ArenA, where an all-star crew of David Guetta, Alesso, Armin van Buuren, Martin Garrix, Yellow Claw and Snake compete over the loudest screams on 16 October.

14-18 OCTOBER Check the Nightlife listings for further ADE highlights.

Spook It’s Halloween! Time to eat sweets, play dress up and party like we’ll all be dead tomorrow. text Leda Georgiades

P

arade your inner monster, swamp ghoul or run-of-the-mill tattooed zombie rockabilly freak at Spook’s Monster Bash at the Panama – part of the sixth annual Amsterdam Halloween Festival running between 29 October and 1 November 2015.

This year’s theme is dedicated to vintage retro horror – think 1950s B-movies crossed with the Addams Family and, if you’ve got the swagger to pull it off, the Fonz. Be the petticoat-sporting waitress, forever doomed to deliver your inedible wares to bequiffed and bobby-sox-wearing fiendish patrons. You can bring Marilyn back to life, but why bother? She’s much better off dead! Vintage vamps, rancid rockabillies and maggoty monsters are all welcome. Be as creative as you can, for there will be prizes for best group/duo, best themed, most original costume and an additional prize for the Monster Bash King & Queen (or King & King or Queen & Queen, for that matter). Make sure you

are in before midnight to qualify. Amsterdam Spook is more than a little obsessed

by Halloween and while they don’t take themselves too seriously, they are adamant that your costume be respectre-ble (groan) as they have a ‘no costume, no entry’ policy. Visit their website for inspiration, or attend a Halloween make-up workshop

by Back Stage Amsterdam on 22, 24 and 28 October.

The line-up for this year’s festival features over 35 artists and DJs, with music running the gamut from dark new wave, synthpop, electro sounds to happy hardcore and dirty beats. No cut corners on atmosphere either: there will be spine-tingling, grim contortionists, puppeteers, stilt-walkers and SFX artists. Themed cocktails, killer props and amazing costumes will make this a Halloween that you live (or die) to remember.

31 OCTOBER Panama, Oostelijke Handelskade 4 www.amsterdamspook.com

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13 questions Claire Parker, creative director at design agency Design Bridge, lived in many great world capitals before settling in Amsterdam ten years ago.

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text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

        

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‘You are all so tall!

I am constantly looking up.’

1.BEST THING ABOUT LIVING IN AMSTERDAM? Its bohemian, nonconformist spirit. After living in places like Singapore and Sydney, I’m amazed that comparatively small Amsterdam represents over 185 cultures.

2. AND THE WORST? The litter! It breaks my heart to see the rubbish on the canals or in the parks. Clean up your act, Amsterdammers!

3. FIRST MEMORY OF AMSTERDAM? Cycling through the Vondelpark at night, a friend sitting on the back rack, on our way to the Blauwe Theehuis  for drinks. It looked like a flying saucer, lights twinkling in the water, laughter wafting from its terraces. Possibly the magical, surreal moment I decided to move here.

4. WHAT DID YOU THINK OF AMSTERDAMMERS WHEN YOU FIRST ARRIVED?

You are all so tall! I am constantly looking up. And don’t get me started on watching a gig at the Paradiso: I always end up staring at someone’s back.

5. DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE NEIGHBOURHOOD? I love taking an early walk in the Rembrandtpark  with my dog Bridie before the city comes to life. It feels like the countryside.

6. IN WHAT BUILDING WOULD YOU LIKE TO SPEND THE NIGHT? The Felix Meritis building  – such a fantastic cultural and scientific history, since it was built in 1788. Imagine the conversations that have taken place in there over the years!

7. IF YOU ONLY HAD ONE DAY TO VISIT AMSTERDAM, WHAT WOULD YOU DO? As I discovered when I had a friend here on a 24-hour stopover – you can do a lot! Breakfast in the Jordaan, a stroll through the

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©MIKE BREEUWER

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Nine Streets, past Amsterdam Lieverdje  into the Begijnhof.

Then Vlaamse frites from Vleminckx, washed down by a beer on the terrace of Café de Jaren  . A walk across Waterlooplein to Het Rembrandthuis  , and finally a boat cruise through the canals, over to Hannekes Boom  for a glass of something fizzy while the sun goes down.

11. ANY GREAT LOCAL TALENT? In a small shop back in the UK, I discovered a wonderful bag made by a Dutch artist, Leslie Oschmann, who lives and works in Amsterdam. She breathes new life into found objects by using vintage oil paintings salvaged from markets and auctions. www.swarmhome.com

8. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE AMSTERDAM HANG OUT? Festina Lente  is an old and all- time favourite of mine, especially if I can sit outside.

12. FAVOURITE ART GALLERY I love to hear people talk passionately about their world, and Addie, of Gallery Vassie  , used to be curator at the Victoria &Albert Museum in London, so she has many fascinating stories about photography history and techniques.

9. FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? Toscanini  . Maybe it’s the friends and memorable moments, but it also has consistently great service and food. Piles of langoustines…

10. FAVOURITE FLEA MARKETS? IJ-Hallen  . You’ll always come away with something – whether you were looking for it or not.

13. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THE DUTCH SENSE OF HUMOUR? Compared to the British ironic sense of humour, the Dutch relish a bit of slapstick – with a cruel streak.

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

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film

Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one cinema at a time.

Driving North, and four more open air film-fests

Who says summer is over?

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text Bregtje Schudel

I ON THE ROOF FILM FESTIVAL Until 4 September On the roof of the VU, De Boelelaan 1105 www.ontheroofff.nl WEST’IVAL 12-14 September Mercatorplein www.westival-amsterdam.com WESTBEACH OPEN AIR 10-20 September Hotel Buiten, Th. J. Lammerslaan 1 www.amsterdam.nl BOLLYWOOD (NOT) AT THE PARK Third weekend of September Somewhere in Amsterdam-Oost www.bollywoodatthepark.nl DRIVING NORTH 1-11 October NDSM-werf www.drivingnorth.nl

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f anything, the number of outdoors festivities only seems to be growing. And it does make more sense. The sooner the sun is down, the sooner the film can start. Even if you’re afraid of bad after-summer weather, there’s one festival that has it all covered: Driving North, an old school drive-in cinema at NSDM-werf in Amsterdam Noord, where you can watch a movie from your car (cost is €25 per car) and where your snacks and drinks are delivered right to your window. Had one too many? Not a problem. The Rent-a-BOB will get you home safely! But of course you are also welcome on foot, with seats in the lounge at €10.

Fittingly, cars play a leading role in most films. Doc’s trusty DeLorean in Back to the Future (1985) will open the third edition of Driving North. To

commemorate its thirtieth anniversary, a local brewer has even made a special beer, aptly called Bock to the Future.

Stuntman Mike’s Chevy Nova and Dodge Charger will make an appearance in Quentin Tarrantino’s Death Proof (inevitably followed by Robert Rodriguez’s, Planet Terror – don’t miss Tarantino’s melting testicles!), as will the lavender Greyhound – and titular character – of Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (presented by EYE) and Carl Casper’s taco truck from Chef!

So start your engines, and may the best movie win!

MORE OPEN-AIR FILM FARE: FROM EAST TO WEST The good news: there will be a new edition of Bollywood at the Park this year. The bad: it

won’t be at the park. Due to extensive renovations no festivals are allowed in Oosterpark.

So keep your eyes peeled! For even more world cinema, go south – and up – for the On the Roof Film Festival on the roof of the Vrije Universiteit.

All movies are accompanied by a discussion (in English) with guest speakers on their main topics and themes. You will have to pay for the view, though (film: €12.50, film+food:€19).

For free film fare, go west to the West’ival at Mercatorplein with screenings of Sukkar Banat (English subtitles) and Broken Flowers, and to Westbeach Film Festival. Westbeach also had to relocate, from Sloterparkbad to Hotel Buiten, but the idyllic views – of Sloterplas – and the strong programming (Boyhood, Dallas Buyers Club, Annie Hall, among others) stay the same.

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highlight Our must-see film pick this issue…

Eye on Japan

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apanophiles, beware! You might actually overdose on all the Japanese cinematic awesomeness Amsterdam has on offer in the next couple of months. Until the end of the year, EYE is hosting an extensive film programme, called Mubii Japan, with 40 films spanning 90 years of Japanese cinema, from the early expressionistic classic A Page of Madness (1926) by one-time kabuki female impersonator Kinugasa, Rashomon (Akira Kurosawa, 1950), Kwaidan (Masika Kobayashi, 1964) and Akira (Katsuhiro Otomo, 1988), to the (pre)premieres of Journey to the Shore (Kiyoshi Kurosawa) and Our Little Sister (Hirokazu Kore-eda). Special attention is also given to other, earlier works of Kore-eda, from Maboroshi (1995) and After Life (1998) to the present. Kore-eda has been invited to attend the special screening of Our Little Sister on 26 September. Also in the spotlight are the movies by Mikio Naruse and his look on tragic love – an appetizer for a bigger retrospective in 2017. Other specials include a yakuza double bill (hosted by Cinema Egzotik) featuring The Yakuza (Sidney Pollack, 1974) and Hana-bi (Takeshi Kitano, 1997) and Cinema in Concert. Some films have Dutch subtitles, others English, so make sure to check the website!

Definitely smaller in scope – but no less intriguing – is Camera Japan, which will be celebrating its tenth edition this year. Besides screenings of the aforementioned Journey to the Shore and Our Little Sister, both solid entries at this year’s Cannes Festival, Camera Japan also screens films that are slightly more risqué, like Treasure Ship: Latitudes of Lust (Koichiro Ikawa), a ‘pink film’ about a man who discovers that his wife has some peculiar sexual proclivities, and Makeup Room (Kei Morikawa), a low-budget sex comedy located in the make-up room of a shoot for a porno movie, featuring an ensemble of real-life porn stars.

9 JULY-9 SEPTEMBER EYE, IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl

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nightlife essentials 1990s alongside the ‘Madchester’ sound, indie rockers The Charlatans have released 12 reAn extraordinary line-up of cords in their 25-year career.

Dutch and international artists This year’s Modern Nature rewith a unique location. In this ceived plaudits from the press festival the entire main build- including a perfect five stars ing of the Amsterdam ArenA from The Daily Telegraph. is transformed into a jazz hot- Monday 7 September spot. Dutch and international Paradiso  jazz artists will be swinging in www.paradiso.nl to light up the festival‘s stages, with this edition celebrating the 75th birthday of local CHCGO legend Hans Dulfer.

We could not quite believe our Sunday 6 September ears when we heard this news Amsterdam ArenA  from Canvas’ programming dewww.amsterdamjazzfestival.info partment… K’Alexi Shelby, for real? Paul Johnson, on the same night? These guys – two THEATRE: ANNE of the most exciting house DJ/ While the show may be exproducers from the windy city – tended again, this could be will no doubt tear the roof off your last chance to catch it. this former newspaper HQ. This ongoing production at a With about a dozen classics to custom-built theatre in Amhis name, K’Alexi clearly understerdam’s docklands is direct- stands that house is a feeling. ly based on the Diary of Anne Paul Johnson released on many Frank and the Frank family ar- iconic labels before breaking chives. A dedicated, multilin- through in 1999 with a chart gual translation system is topper called ‘Get Get Down’. available.

Essential clubbing.

Until 27 September Saturday 19 September Theater Amsterdam  Canvas  www.theateramsterdam.nl www.canvas7.nl

AMSTERDAM JAZZ FESTIVAL

DISCOVERY FESTIVAL

DANCE: GALA

The opening night of this unique festival that marries new science, new arts and new music will keep you enthralled with life-altering questions such as ‘can we date robots?’ and mind-altering live music by Demdike Stare, Lust for Youth, MESH, Malawi and Orpheu the Wizard.

Friday 25 September Science Center NEMO  www.discoveryfestival.nl

The Dutch National Ballet opens the new ballet season with a grand and glittering gala with nearly 200 dancers. The entire ensemble performs in a Grand Défilé alongside pupils of the National Ballet Academy in a rich and varied programme that includes new creations, famous pas de deux, work by the renowned Dutch choreographer Hans van Manen and highlights from the company’s repertoire. After the show, there is a party in the foyer where the audience can mingle with dancers and choreographers.

Tuesday 8 September Dutch National Opera and Ballet  www.operaballet.nl

AMSTERDAM HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL Amsterdam Spook returns with four days of bloody good Halloween antics at the end of October. At its gory core is the ‘Monster Bash’ Halloween Party, filling up the Panama nightclub with a whole host of groovy ghouls on 31 October.

Thursday 29 September-Sunday 1 November Various locations www.halloweenamsterdam.com

THE CHARLATANS Rising to fame in the early

SAN FRANCISCO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA – MAHLER One of the United States’ most important orchestras comes to town to perform Mahler’s First Symphony, plus Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No 4. Michael Tilson Thomas conducts.

Sunday 13 September Royal Concertgebouw  www.concertgebouw.nl

GRAND CAFÉ BRASSERIE

Get 40% discount off your Rijksmuseum ticket (Normal: €17.50 - Now: €10.50) when you order a 2- or 3- course menu starting from € 25 Make your reservation at Grand Café Restaurant 1e Klas on: www.restaurant1eklas.nl Central Station Amsterdam, Platform 2B, T +31 (0)20-6250131 Kitchen open daily 08.30 – 22.00 h drinks*breakfast*lunch*dinner*

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NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: MUSEUM QUARTER EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE COLUMN

SUNDAY MARKETS To find that singular souvenir – a bicycle-emblazoned baby tee, locally-made leather handbag, handmade soap or an artisanal wooden cutting board – head to the lively Cultuurpark Westergasfabriek (just west of the Jordaan) every first Sunday of the month from 12:00-18:00.

There’s also live music and plenty of food trucks and stands, offering up local delicacies such as pancakes and pulled pork waffles and international options, such as banh mi, empanadas and bacon-maple doughnuts.

6 Sep & 4 Oct Westergasfabriek www.sundaymarket.nl

‘THE MUSEUM QUARTER HAS GOTTEN EVEN MORE BEAUTIFUL AND LIVELY IN THE PAST COUPLE OF YEARS.’ Carina Tolud, who is delighted about the new life injected into her neighbourhood.

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Neighbourhood watch

neighbourhood watch

MUSEUM QUARTER AND DEVIL’S ISLAND

CARINA TOLUD, 33 from café Zest

‘I live and work in this neighbourhood, and I think it’s gotten even more beautiful and lively in the past couple of years. People enjoy themselves a lot, there are so many events to attend, like Keti Koti which was moved here from Oosterpark this summer.

What a great initiative!’

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The richness of the Museumquarter lies not just in its diamond factories and luxury shops; it is also home to Amsterdam’s most prized culture and art institutions. text & photo Marie-Charlotte Pezé map Monique Wijbrands/SaltyStock

Amsterdam’s cultural hub

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useumplein is the spinal cord of Amsterdam’s classical culture, linking all of the grand art institutions that line its periphery, just a stone’s throw from each other – even though you’d be hard pressed to find a stone on that vast expanse of manicured lawn where visitors sit in the summer with books or friends and ice-skate in the winter. To the north presides the iconic Rijksmuseum, the repository of Dutch culture since 1885.

Entirely renovated and reopened in 2013, it is a splendid and arresting journey through 800 years of national art and history, with more than 30 of its 80 galleries devoted to the Golden Age as well as a new atrium and gardens, an Asian pavilion and the Philips Wing for new exhibits. To the west, bordered by a street of jewellers and diamond cutters, lies the Van Gogh Museum with its brand-new entrance building and monumental collection of works by the misunderstood ear-lopping artist. Opening on 25 September is Munch : Van Gogh, the first exhibit ever to explore the parallels between the lives and artistry of the two giants of Western painting. Next door, the Stedelijk Mu-

seum of Modern Art flaunts its updated design, which brilliantly manages to mix the classical architecture of the original 1895 building with a new wing in the shape of a giant bathtub, without being a nightmarish eyesore. To the south, the 127-year-old Royal Concertgebouw is still regarded as one of the greatest concert halls in the world, thanks to its acoustics.

However, it is not above offering the treat of free lunchtime concerts on Wednesdays. Further south still is what Amsterdammers call ‘The Reservation’, home of the rich and famous; and to the east is a leafy area of grand townhouses, which consuls and ambassadors surely all agree is one of Amsterdam’s prettiest and classiest neighbourhoods.

HAUTE COUTURE CENTRAL Classy, yes, but showy too, in its own way. Visitors who ruin their heels on the marble floors of the Rijksmuseum can purchase new shoes at very unreasonable prices at Jimmy Choo or Salvatore Ferragamo on PC Hooftstraat, the high-end shopping destination in Amsterdam, located just a couple of blocks west of Museumplein. In 2006, Glamour magazine organ-

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neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

The Rijksmuseum is a splendid journey through 800 years of Dutch art and history. ised a 70-metre stiletto run through the street, with a €10,000 shopping spree as the prize. Yet even €10,000 wouldn’t buy Julia Robert’s ‘pretty woman’ her infamous stack of bags, as most of the street is lined with haute couture boutiques such as Prada, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, which rub elbows with the latest in exclusive labels: 7 for All Mankind, SuperTrash, Agent Provocateur.

One of the most famous shopping streets in the Netherlands, PC Hooftstraat has found just the right balance between old-world class and new-money bling – even if the Dutch like to mock the SUVs with tinted windows that park up outside by calling them ‘PC Hooft tractors’. Pieter Corneliszoon Hooft, the 17th-century poet after whom the street is named, must be turning in his grave.

To the south of Museumplein, Van Baerlestraat continues with great shops of the same ilk – but in the tad more affordable range. Pauw is an institution in conservative wear, with several branches along the street.

The recently opened Davidoff also has a classy man-cave at the ready just across from the Rijks, with a cigar lounge and a range of luxury tobacco accessories. The food options are pretty swanky too, as Museumplein is flanked by the Conservatorium and the College Hotel, two culinary establishments with amazing decor. Along the way, there’s no shortage of trendy bistros and fabulous terraces; from The Seafood Bar, to l’Entrecôte et les Dames and even Zest, a health juice bar with gluten free everything.

G-STAR RAW G-Star is the child prodigy of Dutch fashion. Since its creation in Amsterdam in 1989, the urban clothing company has grown to 6,500 shops worldwide. It has made a name for itself with its signature raw denim, with military-inspired designs that lovingly hug and enhance men’s and women’s derrieres alike.

The flagship store on PC Hooftstraat boasts incredible customer service – it’s like having a personal shopper, for your jeans.

PC Hooftstraat 24 www.g-star.com

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HELL ON EARTH A short stroll east along Van Baerlestraat brings us back to the realm of mortals. The

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LUCAS BOLS The world’s oldest distiller uses its fascinating 440-year history and 40 flavours of liquors and genevers to play with our senses, reveal some secrets and, let’s be honest, get us a bit drunk during the fun and interactive House of Bols Cocktail & Genever Experience. There’s even a flair bartending booth so you can try your flinging and flipping skills, Tom Cruise style. Bartending workshops are available every Friday night.

Paulus Potterstraat 14 www.houseofbols.com

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RESTAURANT STEDELIJK

RENZO’S DELICATESSEN

With its giant windows, concrete benches and enormous terrace, which flows seamlessly from the Stedelijk’s sleek bathtub, the museum’s restaurant is a modern masterpiece in itself. From quick breakfast pastries to latenight three-course dinners, the menu offerings are refreshing, reasonable and international, with a few dishes unique enough to make a special trip.

Authentic southern European delicacies can be a hard find in Amsterdam, so Renzo’s is a precious address for those who favour stinky cheeses and cured meats.

Near the groaning shelves of imported products, the fresh food bar overflows with pasta salads, marinated vegetables and silky spreads; and the mouth-watering sandwiches barely leave enough room for the sinful cannoli.

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Museumplein 10 www.restaurantstedelijk.nl

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Van Baerlestraat 67 www.renzosdelicatessen.nl

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

HOME IS… Concept shops, a mixed-nut bag of clothes, accessories, home decor and even furniture, is the latest thing in Amsterdam. When you find one that fits your style, it’s tempting to wave a hand around and announce ‘I’ll have one of everything’. Home is… bets on neutral colours with bright accents (hot pink, gold), quality fabrics and designs that don’t sacrifice comfort. It's homey yet tuned in to the latest trends, so it's easy to walk out with a big shopping bag of unique, stylish finds.

Van Baerlestraat 89 www.homeis.nl

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CAFÉ LOETJE CAFÉ WILDSCHUT It’s debatable which is the most famous museumkwartier institution: the Rijksmuseum or Café Wildschut. Its large terrace, which seems to have its own microclimate of non-stop sun, is one of the places to be for beer, hapjes and people-watching. The interior, often unfairly neglected for the legendary outdoor tables, was entirely redesigned in 2008, and its magnificent bay windows offer just as great a view from which to enjoy their stellar lunch or dinner menus.

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Roelof Hartplein 1-3 www.cafewildschut.nl

COLLEGE HOTEL RESTAURANT Chic and cosy define this establishment of character, with its intimate little nooks and crannies and its warmly lit lounge, adorned with a fireplace. The delicious international menu with traditional Dutch accents is accompanied by an impressive wine selection. If the interior is classical, the terrace could have been designed by the landscape artists at Versailles: the perfect place for high tea. They even offer a children’s version for birthdays and special occasions.

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Roelof Hartstraat 1 www.thecollegehotel.com

While this large corner café has many qualities, such as its family atmosphere, its quick and no-nonsense waiting staff, and its spacious sunny terrace, it can be summarised in one important word: steaks. Steaks of normal size, steaks of indecent proportions, steaks marinated with spices, steaks bathing in fatty juices (which require a big bread basket to soak up). Its meat has brought Café Loetje such popularity that seven more restaurants have been opened throughout the city, but this location is the one with the grit and authenticity of its original billiard-playing days.

Johannes Vermeerstraat 52 www.loetje.com

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TAMARA TOORNVLIET, 45 Works at the photo studio

‘Devil’s Island is like a small village: we all know each other, and our children play together.

Our little magic sentence is “everything is right around the corner”.’

hustle and bustle of Museumplein is left behind to be replaced by the peace and quiet of a residential area. A hundred years ago, it was a secluded neighbourhood in the middle of a deserted plain, invaded by the stench of a nearby candle factory. Maybe a bit dramatically on the residents’ part, it was nicknamed after the French penal colony in Guiana: Devil’s Island. Ironically, today there is not

much to be found in this triangle of terraced houses but a tranquil haven of playing children, friendly residents and plants scaling the 19th-century facades – in addition to a photo studio and the occasional pop-up shop. However, it is worth crossing, as Ruysdaelstraat emerges on the terrace of Café Loetje, whose hearty steaks, served in a sea of juices and fat, are simply heavenly.

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24H ZUID-ZUIDOOST

Carpenter & fitness trainer from Italy

‘There’s so much art in a few block radius, it makes your head spin. It’s difficult to pick which museum to see if you only have a day or two, because they are all so amazing.’

26 & 27 September from noon till noon.

See iamsterdam.com/24H. The October edition (24 &25 Oct) will take place in Noord.

ZUIDERBAD Few municipal swimming pools are classified as national monuments, but Zuiderbad, which was built in the late 19th century (originally as a bike school) is an exception with its intricate tile work and beautiful art deco details. It was designed in such a modern way and has been so well preserved that the original water filtration system, which uses seven layers of sand, still functions today. The wellness corner includes steam rooms, infrared cabins and herbal baths – and, Amsterdam oblige, a solarium.

Hobbemastraat 26

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© ALPHONS NIEUWENHUIS

ALEX CARUGATI, 25, CARPENTER, AND DAVID STRAMETTO, 22

Although it’s only been around for three years, this event is fast becoming an Amsterdam classic. For 24H, public institutions and companies open doors that normally stay closed to the public. There are four editions per year, one for each corner of the city. In this Zuid edition, you can participate in a free nightly excursion through the Royal Concertgebouw, stroll among Miró sculptures in the gardens of the Rijksmuseum, or have a chat with the firefighters of the monumental firestation near Museumplein. Amsterdam Zuidoost, the area around the Ajax Arena stadium is also participating.

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Karin Engelbrecht

OEDIPUS BREWING

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Gedempt Hamerkanaal 85 www.oedipusbrewing.com

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TRENDY

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ounded some three years ago by four friends in a small Amsterdam apartment, Oedipus was once a niche beer brand only available at a handful of hip bars and festivals. But production capacity reached 14,000 litres in January 2015, and after a successful crowdfunding campaign to launch their own brewery and brewpub, the brand recently went mass market, when it became available at major local retailers such as Albert Heijn and HEMA. ‘Our beers should be exciting and tasteful. We develop recipes without restrictions from the status quo.

Quality comes first. We try to use the best ingredients (sustainable and organic whenever possible),’ say the co-founders. Mannenliefde (6%), the brand’s flagship beer, is a peppery saison with Szechuan peppers, Sorachi Ace hops and subtle notes of lemongrass.

There’s also Thai Thai (8%), a triple with galangal root, coriander seeds and chilli, and Gaia (7%), inspired by West Coast IPAs, with fruity caramel notes and a pleasantly bitter finish. You can taste these, and eight other beers on tap at the newly-opened taproom, set in a 440m2 former STORK warehouse in Amsterdam Noord. Note: the Oedipus Taproom is currently only open to the public on Fridays and Saturdays, from 15:0021:00 and for special events.

eating out

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41 trendy HUTSPOT The name of this concept-store-slash-café-slash-barber-slashbar refers more to the eclectic mix on offer than to the eponymous Dutch carrot-parsnip mash (although you can sometimes find it on the bar menu). By day, creative types and fauxhemians flock to the café to work while munching granola with soy yoghurt on retro chairs and stay after hours to guzzle specialty beers and bar bites next door. Downstairs, there’s eco-friendly fashion and hip homewares, too.

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Van Woustraat 2-4 www.hutspotamsterdam.com

critic’s choice IL PECORINO

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atch some late summer rays on the sunny side of the IJ, at one of the city’s biggest and best water-facing terraces, with views on the busy Passenger Terminal Amsterdam and its mega cruise ships. Authentic Neapolitan woodfired oven pizzas come with toppings such as grilled vegetables (€11.50), porcini mushrooms and black truffle sauce (€15.50) and tomato and mozzarella for the kids (€6.50). There are also gluten-free Farinata (chickpea pancakes) with Tuscan sausage and onions, exceptional pastas by Il Pastificio, artisan beer from Lucca-based brewery La Petrognola and at least a dozen flavours of San Pellegrino.

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Noordwal 1 www.ilpecorino.nl

classic A LA FERME

quick & simple TOASTABLE This temple to the tosti, Amsterdam’s beloved take on the toasted sandwich, now has two locations. Their triple-layered toasted sandwiches are richly filled and oozing, yet surprisingly non-greasy. With a dozen on offer, from ‘simple’(smoked ham and mature Gouda for €5) to ‘deluxe’ (traditional Dutch rookworst with sauerkraut, grainy mustard and aged Gouda cheese for €7), these tostis really do take the cheese.

Korte Kolksteeg 5 www.toastable.nl

; Singel 441 sous 

Ben Van Geelen is a full-blood chef. He learned a lot from one of the most influential and innovative Dutch chefs ever, John Fagel. John introduced the bistro to the Netherlands, great food in a simple setting. He was in favour of simplifying dishes to emphasise taste and flavour. And this is where Ben got his passion for French country cooking and seasonal ingredients. He has a particular way of coming up with dishes; he imagines the taste first and then adds the necessary ingredients to obtain that taste. Everything you eat here is homemade and prepared with a lot of love, craftsmanship and conviction. When you taste the rich sauces, it seems that the ghost of John Fagel still wanders around this restaurant, and he should be smiling.

From: ‘Must Eat Amsterdam’ – www.terralannoo.nl/must-eat-amsterdam Govert Flinckstraat 251 www.alaferme.nl

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ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste. text Karin Engelbrecht

brunch

family friendly

locals brews

KESSENS

MINIMARKT

BROUWERIJ ’T IJ

This understated Jordaan spot offers Dutch, French and Scandinavian brunch classics such as gravad lax (salmon cured in aquavit, sea salt and dill on Holtkamp bread, €9), broodje kroket (a veal, cheese or shrimp croquette sandwich, from €4.95) or Toast Skagen (shrimp with crème fraiche, horseradish, dill and fish roe on toast, €7.95).

Stop off at this kiddies concept store in Oud-Zuid to refuel on cappuccino, organic sandwiches and salads, and homemade madeleines while your toddler lives it up at the train table in the adjacent play area. Then, stock up on trendy brands like Ferm living, Emile et Ida, Jellycat and Nobodinoz for children’s clothing, accessories and gifts.

Beer lovers from all over the world make the pilgrimage to the recently renovated Gooyer Windmill in Oost for its award-winning range of organic beers, such as Zatte (a classic blonde triple), IJwit (a refreshing wheat beer) and Struis (an English-style barley wine). Newer creations include an ever-changing line-up of seasonal brews.

Rozengracht 24 www.kessensamsterdam.nl

THE BREAKFAST CLUB Best known for its fluffy ricotta pancakes, which come with honeycomb butter and fruit (€16), this recent arrival to De Hallen also serves up buckwheat or buttermilk pancakes, eggy breakfasts, croissants and healthy cereals such as hazelnut oatmeal with crispy coconut flakes (€4.50).

Bellamystraat 2-BG www.thebreakfastclub.nl

LITTLE COLLINS Head to De Pijp for an Aussie-style brunch, with caramelised banana brioche French toast lathered in lime curd and whipped coconut cream; or poached eggs with kale, lemon Hollandaise sauce and sourdough toast. But for the ultimate hangover cure, try a plate of Cumberland sausage, bacon, roasted tomatoes and toasted cornbread, washed down with a kimchi Bloody Mary.

Eerste Sweelinckstraat 19/F www.littlecollins.nl

Beethovenstraat 5A www.minimarkt-store.com

DE DUVEL This beloved De Pijp institution attracts neighbourhood locals, shoppers from the nearby Albert Cuyp market and parents with their pushchairs, who come for its comfortable terrace and cosy candle-lit interior, traditional Dutch apple pie and excellent Buscaglione coffee. Trading on its reputation of 22 years, a red letter D on their awning is the only clue that you’ve arrived.

1e Van der Helststraat 59/61 www.deduvel.nl

EDDY SPAGHETTI Every child we know loves pasta, which perhaps explains why this stylish little pasta bar in Oost is perpetually packed. There’s spaghetti with tomato sauce and Parmesan (€6.75) for the bambinos, and half a dozen well-executed pasta dishes as well as an extensive list of cocktails for mum and dad.

Space is limited, so get there early.

Krugerplein 23 www.eddyspaghetti.nl

Funenkade 7 www.brouwerijhetij.nl

BROUWERIJ DE PRAEL Located at the heart of the Red Light District, this microbrewery uses centuries-old traditions to produce artisanal beer from organic malt and hops grown in the back garden. Choose from ten standard beers, ranging from blonde to stout, as well as seasonal beers and special editions.

Oudezijds Armsteeg 26 www.deprael.nl

BAR JOOST With over 40 Amsterdam beers, this Indische Buurt hole in the wall is a go-to destination to taste the best local brews in one sitting.

You’ll find a wide range from breweries such as Amsterdam Brewboys, Bruut, Butcher’s Tears, De Vriendschap, Oedipus and Wispe.

There are also cocktails and mixed drinks, interesting alcohol-free options and great coffee from Catch Coffee.

Molukkenstraat 33 www.joost-amsterdam.nl

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CEVICHE Raw deal from Peru

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learly, raw fish is nothing new to the Dutch. Amsterdam was practically built on herring bones as the omega-rich fish once formed a crucial part of the local diet. In fact, the success of the herring fishery paved the way for the Netherlands’ powerful merchant fleet in the Dutch Golden Age. Today, herring stands and sushi restaurants seem as plentiful as fish in the sea. So it’s perhaps not that surprising that the city’s chefs have been eagerly adding ceviche, a light, bright Peruvian citrus-cured seafood dish, to their menus lately.

The Seafood Bar has three varieties (all €12.50): salmon, lime, ginger and coriander; scallop, tequila and

orange; and cod, lemon, mango and basil. PRESSROOM, the restaurant at the new INK Hotel, offers a mackerel ceviche (€12) with red pepper, beet and lime. And pop-up food stand Ceviche Amsterdam serves up wild sea bass ceviche with lime, sweet potato and mint, with nachos and guacamole (€5).

THE SEAFOOD BAR Spui 15 www.theseafoodbar.nl PRESSROOM Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 67 www.pressroom.amsterdam CEVICHE AMSTERDAM Check Facebook for current location www.facebook.com/cevicheamsterdam

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pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Elisah Jacobs

WILDERNIS

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NEW IN TOWN

For the green-thumbed and plant-lovers, Wildernis is the greenest place to be. This cute, new shop in Oud-West, just around the corner from the Kinkerstraat, sells garden tools, special seeds and compost; but also botanical prints, fashionable plant hangers and stunning houseplants. The idea behind Wil-

dernis is to make Amsterdam’s inhabitants enthusiastic about greenery, because we like our capital leafy, clean and healthy. And why not start that philosophy at home on your balcony, roof terrace or garden? Release your inner gardener and grow your own herbs – because pasta really tastes better with homemade basil, right? Next to gardening tools and plants you can

also shop for inspiring books, vases and little beehives or butterfly (homes). And if you have no idea what you’re doing, you can sign up for several workshops to create that ultimate urban jungle at home.

Oh, and you can get coffee too. We like this place already.

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Bilderdijkstraat 165F www.wildernisamterdam.nl

45 homegrown LOCAL GOODS STORE The Local Goods Store is a shopping initiative by cultural organisation Pakhuis de Zwijger, which organises a monthly market full of, well, local goods, now permanently settled at De Hallen. Fashion and lifestyle products are made by young designers and entrepreneurs such as Balkentafel, Tijgerhout, VatAmsterdam and Neef Louis. As the name suggests everything is (hand) made in and around Amsterdam: raincoats from WATERDICHT Amsterdam, graphical canvas totes from TIMcity and tees from 4530 (buy a T-shirt and they give one to a person in need).

Also: sickly sweet limoncello from Bello Limoncello, fair trade chocolate from Tony Chocolonely and ice lollies from MELT Icepops (like!).

pop-up MINIMARKET BY UNOBVIOUS

Hannie Dankbaarpassage 39 www.localgoodsstore.nl

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Hannie Dankbaarpassage 8 www.unobvious.nl

©JOEP KROES

This pop-up store is just like a local supermarket, but without the normal groceries, replaced with cool design products selected

by Edwin Pelser (who owns the sister shop in The Hague). In this tiny store, home decor and design goodies are exhibited in more that 100 plastic crates. Minimarket set up shop in the same building as creative studio Unobvious, who rents the place. Until the end of the year, shop for kitchen towels from Studio Job, Normann Copenhagen thermos bottles, candles from Tallow, and bags from Siwa Paperbags.

Next year Unobvious will come up with a new store concept, exhibition or workshop. Keep checking their Facebook page for more interesting news.

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catchy quotes & funny prints COLOURFUL REBEL Colourful Rebel started as a lifestyle website established by the brothers Frank and Bas van der Brug. A year later they launched their own sweater collection, which became hugely successful. Their popular ‘Boef’ and ‘Rebel’ printed sweaters and hoodies can now also be found offline, in their first boutique. Find rebellious tees and hoodies for men and women with catchy quotes and funny cactus prints, and jogging trousers and hats. Good to know: the brand also plans to design underwear, jackets and more basics.

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Van Woustraat 52 www.colourfulrebel.com

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what’s in store

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for him (M) and her (F).

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text Elisah Jacobs

SWAROVSKI (M/F) Missed your train and have a couple of hours to waste? Don’t worry, Amsterdam Central has a new indoor shopping street full of tempting stores. Swarovski is one of those boutiques filled with crystal jewellery, fashion accessories and home decor items. The store was designed by Japanese designer Tokujin Yoshioka, inspired by a crystal forest: lots of stunning, shiny products influenced by nature. Almost makes you want to miss that train on purpose, right?

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Central Station www.swarovski.com

BUBBLEKID (M/F) Bubblekid is a hairdresser and thrift store in one. The Thrift Shop, a concept store/ vintage market, allows you to buy and sell stuff. Just rent a closet for €35 a week, and sell anything you like, until you’ve saved up enough for a new haircut, given at a monumental solid wooden table. The salon only has one only rule: no mirrors (but you can trust the hairdresser!).

Ferdinand Bolstraat 145 www.bubblekid.nl

KOLIFLEUR (F) Vintage fashion from designer labels such as Isabel Marant, Céline and Dries van Noten rub elbows with high-end brands like Maison Scotch, Minimum and Acne. There is also something for those with an eye for interior design, with retro furniture from the ’50s and ’60s. Also for sale: stationary from Liekeland and BL-IJ, and leather accessories from PUC and Willemijn van Dijk. Every item at Kolifleur is hand picked by owner Eva Koolen.

Drop by regularly because the collection changes very often.

Frans Halsstraat 35 www.kolifleur.nl

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KILOSHOP AMSTERDAM (M/F) At Kiloshop you don’t shop per item, but per kilo. How cool is that? Fill your shopping bag(s) with second-hand fashion and accessories all the way from Paris to Tokyo. Genius! Especially if you spent too much on your holiday this summer. Next to the shopping section the store also has its own coffee bar and a sunny terrace to rest after your shopping spree. Good to know: there’s also a Kiloshop at Waterlooplein.

Eerste van der Helststraat 11-A www.kilo-shop.fr

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BETTY BLUE (M/F))) Betty Blue is a Valhalla for those with a sweet tooth. Order the most colourful pastries (try the éclairs), drink coffee and healthy juices in Betty’s Little Blue Café, and explore the racks for fashion and funky lifestyle accessories. Like the chair you’re sitting on? It’s for sale too.

Oh, and don’t forget to take a selfie at Betty’s Wall of Fame to share on Instagram. A shop full of sweet stuff.

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Snoekjessteeg 1-3 bettyblueamsterdam.nl

BYWORLDGRANNY (M/F) This label works with grannies from Peru because most of those elderly women can’t live off their retirement. ByWorldGranny designs fashion and lifestyle products (in collaboration with young Dutch designers), and then the grannies knit them. All products are made of 100% Pima cotton. The label recently launched a crowdfunding campaign to make design bags, decorative animals and key chains, all handmade with love by the grannies. For now these are only available for sale online, but you can find the current collection at Coco Mat. www.worldgranny.nl

MASHED (M/F) As the name suggests, Mashed is a blend of (Dutch) brands, located in the coolest shopping street in Oud-West; J.P. Heijestraat. This funky store sells interior and lifestyle must-haves such as rugs, tableware, kids fashion and jewellery. Good to know: you can also find a Mashed in nearby awsome shopping city, Haarlem!

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Jan Pieter Heijestraat 168 www.mashed-concept-store.com

MOONCHILD (M/F) The perfect brand to recreate festival season at home, this lifestyle label brings Ibiza to Amsterdam with colourful clip-in hair beads, feathered wood and leather wall art and even printed tepees for your pet. Keep an eye on their social media channels to find out which Amsterdam festivals they’ll be selling at. www.moonchildthelabel.com

PART III

47

EAT, DRINK & CHIC

When in Amsterdam…

After 18 years here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

HASHING IT OUT

I Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

n fine Amsterdam tradition, my daughter’s graduation week from her Dutch primary school culminated in a school play. Us parents filled the auditorium, wine in hand, to watch one half of the traditional-curriculum school do mock battle with the Montessori other half. The production featured a group of ‘hippies’ – or a 2015 version of 12 year olds plastered in their parent’s paisley prints and furry sideburns – eating space cakes and hallucinating about their school in the future. In the end, they all get along famously with a little help from LSB, or Love So Big. If you can’t see where I’m going with this from the ‘wine in hand’ at a school production, let me be clear: never in generations of graduating classes would hallucinogenics be written into a school play in my native US. Ever hear of the song ‘Get Up and Dance’? Probably not, because that only happens when American school productions, like my nephew’s, tone down words in songs such as ‘Shut Up and Dance’.

As I remark on the cultural discrepancies to my Dutch friend, she tells me about a school play in the west of the city featuring another bunch of 12 year olds growing marijuana in the school’s basement to save it from bankruptcy (which they did). No, this was not an episode of Weeds.

I’m not prudish enough to be offended.

Space cakes, known as hash brownies back home, are part of the common culture here, as is marijuana. Our kids may not yet partake, but by 12 years old, they know coffee shops aren’t selling regular joe.

I’ve long been impressed with the Dutch distinction between hard and soft drugs that allows coffee shops to sell small amounts of marijuana and hashish to 18 and overs without being prosecuted (yes, it’s technically illegal in a grey area that only the Dutch can perfect), while harshly penalising those pushing the harder stuff that ruins lives. It’s no accident that despite the flak the Dutch get, their drug problems pale in comparison to the rest of the Just Say No world.

Regulations have indeed restricted the use of cannabis in recent years, and 2015 will be the first in 27 years that the legendary Cannabis Cup will not be held in the city.

The number of coffee shops in Amsterdam has been steadily decreasing as a result of the Red Light District ‘clean up’ and new rules that coffee shops have to be certain distances from schools – the latter a very Dutch attempt to protect its children from the realities of soft drug use while giving their artistic expressions free reign.

AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

GET THE MOST OUT OF AMSTERDAM! GET A SUBSCRIPTION! ONE YEAR/ 6 ISSUES FOR ONLY €19.95

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SIGHTS & SOUNDS ART & FASHION DANCING & DINING COMPLETE LISTINGS JAN & FEB 2015

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How to subscribe to A-mag.

Contact subscriptions by email at a-magservice@iamsterdam.com

MUSEUM TIPS

Magnum Contact Sheets This exhibition offers insight into the working methods of the world’s most famed journalistic photographers, by looking at their original contact sheets.

Foam, 11 Sep until 9 Dec

museumtips halve pagina a-mag_sep-oct2015.indd 1

Antoine-Jean Gros, Napoleon Bonaparte op de brug bij Arcole, 1796–97. © State Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg

Ernesto Che Guevara Havana Cuba 1963 © Rene Burri Magnum Photos

amsterdammusea.org

ZERO: let us explore the stars

Radical Art of the ‘50s and ‘60s. A historic survey of the innovative avant-garde group ZERO. Stedelijk Museum, until 8 Nov

Alexander, Napoleon & Joséphine An exhibition on three historical giants: a Story of Friendship, War and Art. Hermitage Amsterdam, until 8 Nov

Visit these and many other museums for free with the I amsterdam City Card iamsterdam.com/citycard

8/12/15 15:22

PART IV

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sep & oct 2015

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FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/SPORTS/FAMILY/ GAY & LESBIAN

>

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

KLIK FESTIVAL All eyes on EYE this October, with six whole days of the world’s best animated shorts and features.

KLIK festival not only offers screenings of the best animated work out there – including that of many award-winning, and even one Oscar-nominated guests: Tomm Moore, Johnny Kelly and PES – they also put together presentations and workshops to spread the love, culture and technique. They also throw a whole bunch of parties, like the KLIK KLIK BOOM party, and of course they hand out awards and prizes – all the trimmings of a truly animated week.

27 OCTOBER-1 NOVEMBER EYE, IJpromenade 1 www.klik.amsterdam

50

PART IV THE A-LIST

FESTIVALS & EVENTS AMSTERDAM IN-WATER BOAT SHOW This off-shoot of the Amsterdam Boat Show returns for its third edition at the NDSM-werf, allowing seafaring folks and water sports fans to get up close and personal with sailing ships, boats and lots of other nautical paraphernalia.

NDSM-werf, www.hiswatewater.nl, Tue 1-Sun 6 Sep, 11:00-19:00, €8-€18.50

Choice festivals

festival the entire main building of the Amsterdam ArenA is transformed into a jazz hotspot.

Amsterdam ArenA, www.amsterdamjazzfestival.info, Sun 6 Sep, 14:00, €39 NOORDERPARKFESTIVAL Amsterdam Noord comes into its own, uniting a host of cultural institutions from the neighbourhood to take part in a free fun-filled day. The programme is a blend of old-fashioned funfair, a street theatre event and a music festival.

Noorderpark, www.noord.amsterdam.nl, Sun 6 Sep, 12:00, free

Amsterdam Roest, www.strawberryearth.com, Fri 9 & Sat 10 Oct, various times, €15-€25 CINEKID Alongside film, documentaries, shorts, cartoons, television productions and cross-media productions, there’s also a large number of interactive installations and workshops.

Westergasfabriek, www.cinekid. nl, Thur 15 Oct-Sat 1 Nov, various times & prices

© LETHA WILSON

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

FORRÓ AMSTERDAM DUTCH THEATRE FESTIVAL FESTIVAL The Dutch Theatre Festival is a UNSEEN PHOTO FAIR celebration of Dutch and Flemish The Forró Amsterdam Festival is dedicated to Brazil’s forró dance theatre, presenting a selection Showcasing fresh international photography, the Unseen of last season’s best productions. style – a fast, fun, sensual partner Photo Fair focuses primarily on undiscovered photography Performances with English surti- dance with fancy footwork, swirltalent and unseen work by established photographers. ing skirts and swivelling hips, tles or otherwise suitable for nonThis naturally means there are innumerable opportunities with music driven by accordion Dutch speakers include Horror, to purchase work by the artists, but the festival is about riffs and a tinkling triangle.

Medea, A Piece of Time, To Break more than just browsing (and buying) art. Film screenings, CREA & Club Lite, www.for– The Window of Opportunity ro-amsterdam.com, Fri 11-Sun 13 and Vader. parties and other interactive programming ensure there Sep, various times & prices Various locations, www.tf.nl/en, are many ways to get involved, and in 2015 the event also Thur 3-Sun 13 Sep, various times hosts special events and activities around the city centre.

FOTOWEEK & prices Westergasfabriek, www.unseenamsterdam.com, Fri 18-Sun As well as highlighting pho20 Sep 2015 AMSTERDAM FRINGE tography exhibitions and larger FESTIVAL photography events, this event is an opportunity to get active to discover all that the city’s and journalism, focusing on The festival for young, fresh ’n’ South-East Asia this year. new theatre takes over Amster- with the camera – with photogra- neighbourhoods have to offer in phy workshops, family portrait a blistering 24-hour period, as Various locations, www.readmydam’s stages, clubs, streets and booths... etc. theatres, museums, shops, hotels world.org, Thur 1-Sat 3 Oct, Tolliving rooms once again with Various locations, www.deand clubs open their doors and huistuin, various times & prices more than 80 performances, fotoweek.nl, Fri 11-Sun 20 Sep, throw up some special surprises. many of which are suitable for CAMERA JAPAN various times & prices This edition is all about the disnon-Dutch speakers. tricts of Zuid and Zuidoost.

The largest multidisciplinary Various locations, MAGNEET FESTIVAL Various locations, www.iamsterJapanese cultural festival in the www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl, Benelux, Camera Japan offers Thur 3-Sun 13 Sep, various times The Magneet Festival encourages dam.com/24h, Sat 26 & Sun 27 visitors to get involved by subSep, various times & prices a heady mix of film, art, music, & prices mitting their own ideas and pardance, fashion and food.

SMKBLVRD Kriterion, www.camerajapan.

HET BACCHUS WIJNFESTIVAL ticipating in the event itself. This results in a huge range of music, Enjoy the very best of food and nl, Fri 2-Sun 4 Oct, various times A festival in honour of the Rotheatre, art and activities. drink from the local area, as well & prices man god of wine! The Bacchus Oostpunt, www.magneetfestival. as a vibrant cultural programme.

Wijnfestival is set to present EXPATICA’S ’I AM NOT A nl, Fri 11-Sun 13 Sep, various Sloterpark, www.smaakboulemore than 250 wines from all TOURIST’ FAIR times, €20-€55 vard.com, Sun 27 Sep, 13:00 corners of the world, in combinaThe event caters to an ever-growtion with plenty of mobile caterAMSTERDAM HERITAGE VT WONEN & DESIGN BEURS ing international and expatriate ing, DJs and live music.

DAYS If your pad could do with a style community. The extensive proAmsterdamse Bos, Dozens of important buildings, facelift, this annual fair is the idegramme includes workshops, www.bacchuswijnfestival.nl, monuments and private homes al place to get up to date on the performances, speed-dating and Fri 4-Sun 6 Sep, 14:00, €15 will open their doors to the pub- latest in home interiors, outdoor an enormous range of service JORDAAN FESTIVAL lic, all free of charge. furnishings, art, concept design providers on hand for a chat.

Various locations, www.openand lifestyle trends.

Beurs van Berlage, An honest celebration of the monumentendag.nl, Sat 12 & Amsterdam RAI, www.woonwww.expatica.com, Sun 4 Oct, Amsterdam folk music tradition, Sun 13 Sep, free beurs.nl, Tue 29 Sep-Sun 4 Oct, 10:00, free (order tickets online) the Jordaan Festival celebrates 10:00, €15 the neighbourhood’s colourful KLASSIEK OP HET AFROVIBES FESTIVAL history with open-air perforAMSTELVELD INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL This African cultural festival mances by Dutch singers.

OF ROMANTIC CHAMBER This free outdoor festival presents returns with today’s most unique, Elandsgracht/Marnixstraat, MUSIC a whole day of classical music for intriguing and extraordinary www.jordaanfestival.nl, Fri the entire family.

This festival brings four days African artists and performances.

4-Sun 6 Sep Amstelveld, of romantic chamber music to Compagnietheater / Bijlmer ZEEZOUT FESTIVAL www.klassiekophetamstelveld.nl, the beautiful ’Seven Bridges’ Parktheater, www.afrovibes.nl, Sat 19 Sep, 11:00, free neighbourhood of Amsterdam’s Wed 7-Sat 10 Oct ZeeZout is hosting their own world-famous Canal District. outdoor boutique festival, invitGEELVINCK FORTEPIANO Various locations, www.zevening DJs and live acts to entertain NORTH SEA SURF FESTIVAL The first of its kind in the Nethbruggenfestival.nl, Tue 29 SepThe Geelvinck-Hinlopen Huis while creating a magical end-oferlands, this festival is devoted to Sun 4 Oct, various times & prices brings the sound of the harpsisummer atmosphere. surf music and features screenchord back to life with a series of Diemerbos, www.festival.zeezout.

DA BOUNCE URBAN FILM ings of new and classic surf movclassical concerts at a number of info, Sat 5 Sep, 12:00, €34.50 FESTIVAL ies, plus a surf market. churches and cultural locations.

VALTIFEST Melkweg, www.melkweg.nl, Alongside new releases, oldVarious locations, www.

Sat 26 Sep, 16:00, €18.50 school classics, shorts and geelvinckfestival.nl, Thur 8-Sun The wild child of Amsterdam’s documentaries, look out for live 25 Oct, various times & prices summer festival programme DISCOVERY FESTIVAL shows, parties, interviews with returns with a heavyweight STRAWBERRY EARTH FAIR This festival is a party with an filmmakers and plenty more! line-up of DJs playing a range of This festival is inspired and electronic music as eclectic as the interactive, scientific twist where Westergasfabriek, www.dbuff.nl, it’s all about the kick of discoverThur 1-Sun 4 Oct, various times curated with nature in mind, so dress code. ing new things. & prices all shops, exhibitions and workNDSM-werf, www.valtifest.nl, Science Center NEMO, shops are handpicked. Expect Sat 5 Sep, 12:00, €45 READ MY WORLD FESTIVAL www.discoveryfestival.nl, to find products made with care AMSTERDAM JAZZ FESTIVAL Fri 25 Sep, 21:00, €17.50 International literature festival for people and planet, groundthat challenges Dutch and inter- breaking materials, food from the An extraordinary line-up of 24H ZUID/ZUIDOOST national authors to explore the fields and a whole heap of new Dutch and international artists 24H is a fantastic opportunity boundaries between literature knowledge. with a unique location. In this

AMSTERDAM MUSIC FESTIVAL Some of the leading names in electronic dance music invade the city for this EDM blowout.

Amsterdam ArenA, www.amsterdammusicfestival.com, Fri 16 & Sat 17 Oct PINT BOKBIER FESTIVAL The largest of its kind in the Netherlands, this beer festival descends on the city centre every year for three full days of beery delight.

Beurs van Berlage, www.pint.nl, Fri 23-Sun 25 Oct, various times, €10 (tbc) 24H NOORD 24H is a fantastic opportunity to discover all that the city’s neighbourhoods have to offer in a blistering 24-hour period, as theatres, museums, shops, hotels and clubs open their doors and throw up some special surprises.

This edition is all about the district of Noord.

Various locations, www.iamsterdam.com/24h, Sat 24 & Sun 25 Oct, various times & prices ORIGIN CHOCOLATE EVENT This delicious autumn event invites chocolate lovers to put on their connoisseur hats, meeting world-famous chocolatiers and experts, joining tasting sessions and workshops and even an Origin Chocolate dinner.

Royal Tropical Institute, www. originchocolate.eu, Sat 24 Oct AMSTERDAM HALLOWEEN FESTIVAL Amsterdam Spook returns with four days of bloody good Halloween antics at the end of October.

At its gory core is the ‘Monster Bash’ Halloween Party, filling up the Panama nightclub with a whole host of groovy ghouls on 31 October.

Various locations, www.halloweenamsterdam.com, Thur 29 OctSun 1 Nov, various times & prices LONDON CALLING This twice-yearly music festival helps give Amsterdam’s indie kids and music lovers an insight into what’s happening across the channel and beyond.

Paradiso, www.londoncalling. nl, Fri 30 & Sat 31 Oct, 18:30, €22.50 (per night)/€35 (both nights) AFFORDABLE ART FAIR Getting your hands on a piece of art no longer has to break the bank: contemporary art is on sale for between a few hundred and a few thousand euros.

Kromhouthal, www.affordableartfair.com/amsterdam, Thur 29 Oct- Sun 1 Nov, various times & prices guaranteed

51

sep & oct 2015

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ MY MORNING JACKET with his album Life in Cartoon neer, Fela Kuti, Felabration is perform tonight.

Motion and tunes such as ’Grace a big tropical party thrown by Tue 6 Oct, Paradiso, 19:30, €35 American rock revivalists My Kelly’ and ‘Big Girl (You Are the guys at Jungle By Night and Morning Jacket released their THE ORB ROGER HODGSON Beautiful)’, which found a sound welcoming Fela’s son, Seun Kuti seventh album The Waterfall mixing Elton John, Robbie Wil- with Egypt 80. Mixing the poly- The ambient electronic heroes The voice of ’70s prog rock earlier this year to positive liams and Freddy Mercury. rhythmic vibes and attitudes of return with new album Moonband Supertramp, Hodgson has reviews following a four-year Tue 22 Sep, Heineken Music Africa with a hip-hop mentality, building 2703 AD. It’s the released just three records since break. The band mixes alt-counHall, 20:00, €35 expect a sweaty night of dance. collective’s 13th studio album parting ways with Supertramp. try and folk, psychedelic and Sat 3 Oct, Paradiso, 19:30, €15 and the first on the Kompakt However, he’s remained busy prog rock, led by singer Jim ACTION BRONSON label, renowned more for minitouring, playing a mix of both James’ often ethereal vocals.

BOBBY LONG Chef turned rapper Action mal beats than for atmospheric the band’s and his own works.

Thur 10 Sep, Paradiso, 19:30, Bronson comes back to AmsterPlaying melancholic country soundscapes.

Wed 2 Sep, Royal Theatre Carré, €27.50 dam to cook up new release Mr and folk, you’d be forgiven Wed 7 Oct, Melkweg, 19:30, €18 20:00, €29-€57 PAUL SMITH Wonderful live for you. Big in for thinking Bobby Long was PIL SEASON OPENING both size and personality, the American but listen closely and Between Maxïmo Park’s five After the Sex Pistols’ wound up The Bimhuis is back and ready records in ten years, singer Paul Queens-based Bronson brings a you’ll hear accent and ancestry to hint he’s actually British. in the late ’70s, infamous leader for the new cultural season. This Smith has found time to release loud and raucous performance every time.

The 29 year-old will be playing Johnny Rotten reverted to real festive night features sets from work outside of the English inWed 23 Sep, Melkweg, 19:30, songs from his already extensive name John Lydon – no less local sax player Michael Moore die band, including solo record €22.50 back catalogue, as well as from brash – and went big with his and pianist Achim Kaufmann, Margins in 2010, and last year’s new record, Ode to Thinking, post-punk band Public Image with one set as a duo and anoth- Frozen By Sight with Field MuSUFJAN STEVENS released in August.

Ltd through the ’80s. After 20 er as a quartet. sic’s Peter Brewis. Now he comes Stevens is most renowned for Sun 4 Oct, Paradiso, 19:00, years, PiL returned in 2012, reThur 3 Sep, Bimhuis, 20:30, €18 to Amsterdam as Paul Smith & his gentle and lush acoustic €10 ceiving favourable reviews. Now, The Intimations.

THE MUSIC OF HERBIE off the back of new record What Thur 10 Sep, Paradiso, 19:30, moments, notably on hit albums MIGUEL HANCOCK like Michigan and Illinois. His the World Needs Now, Lydon €14 latest album Carrie and Lowell Alt-R&B crooner Miguel and Co. are back.

Paying tribute to one of the most ELEPHANT9 has been widely acclaimed as dropped his third record Wed 7 Oct, Paradiso, 19:00, progressive jazz musicians in Wildheart earlier this year, the €26 history, ‘The Music of Herbie Elephant9 is a power trio featur- him getting back to his acoustic Hancock’ brings together local ing key figures from the advenTAKE THAT jazz musicians Jeroen Vrolijk, turous Norwegian scene, all as Daughters, lock up your Martin Helsloot, Peter Bergcomfortable with jazz as they are mothers, because ’90s British man, Frank Stukker, Gianna with rock. Their albums on reheart-throbs Take That really Tam and Karel Boehlee. Be pre- nowned label Rune Grammofon appear to be back for good. pared to boogie. have drawn comparisons with Now shrivelled to a trio, Gary, Sat 5 Sep, North Sea Jazz Club, electric jazz from the 1970s.

Howard and Mark will play the 21:00, €17.50-€22.50 Fri 11 Sep, Bimhuis, 20:30, €18 group’s biggest hits, like ‘Pray’ SUGAR MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL ADMIRAL FALLOW and ‘Shine’, as well as songs from their seventh No.1 charting This intimate and memorable Three albums into their career record, released last year. mini-Americana festival is and these humble indie poppers Wed 7 Oct, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, moving into Paradiso. Among are attempting their first real €55-€75 the line-up is Canadian singbreakout of the UK. Their reer-songwriter Frazey Ford – a laxed, melodic chamber pop is DIANA JONES former member of The Be Good certainly calling out for a bigger Country singer Diana Jones Tanyas – who’s added a soulaudience, blending heartfelt is hardened in the Americana spin to her characteristic folk tales of love and loss with lush sound. Having cut her teeth in and bluegrass style. Other artists blasts of harmony and orchesNashville, her songs mix folk include American guitarist Ry- tration that bulk up their sound. and bluegrass and garners comley Walker, with his minimalist, Newest album Tiny Rewards parisons to Gillian Welch and dreamy sound, and New Orleshows a new maturity, which YOUSSOU N’DOUR YOUNG FATHERS Alison Krauss. ans-based country-soul band doesn’t always offer the immeSenegalese singer Youssou The Scottish music scene Thur 8 Oct, Tolhuistuin, 19:30, the Deslondes. diate impact of their earliest N’Dour has been influential and hip-hop aren't the €15 Sun 6 Sep, Paradiso, 14:00, songs. in bringing African music to most traditional of bedfel€20 Fri 11 Sep, Paradiso, 22:00, €9 the world over the course lows, making this group's HELEMAAL MELKWEG THE CHARLATANS MARC ALMOND of three decades, although battle through the ranks This recurring event does exactly as the name (literally: Rising to fame in the early This legendary artist has kept he's perhaps best known all the more impressive.

Complete Melkweg) suggests, 1990s alongside the ‘Madbusy beyond his Soft Cell days, to the Western world for With a sound that's grown throwing open the whole of chester’ sound, indie rockers with 20 solo records. His most his collaboration with Neand morphed with each this former dairy factory for an The Charlatans have released 12 recent one is called The Velvet neh Cherry, on the song ‘7 release, they've picked up evening of music, performance, records in their 25-year career.

Trail and is a departure from Seconds’. He took a break a Scottish Album of the exhibition and cinema action.

This year’s Modern Nature re- past outings, which have includfrom touring when he beYear Award, as well as the Sat 10 Oct, Melkweg, 19:00, €10 ceived plaudits from the press ed poetry and song-cycles. This came Senegal’s Minister of illustrious Mercury Prize including a perfect five stars time Almond is once again BEAR’S DEN from The Daily Telegraph. opting for a pure pop sound.

Culture & Tourism in April in the UK. Newest album The London-based Bear’s Den Mon 7 Sep, Paradiso, 19:30, Mon 14 Sep, Melkweg, 19:30, 2012, but N'Dour certainly White Men Are Black Men has been compared to fellow €22.50 €25 hasn't lost his passion for Too has moved them a folk rock acts like Mumford & performing. His live shows little further away from TORRES TRIBUTE TO MICHAEL Sons, becoming firm Amsterare still renowned for being traditional rap, but they JACKSON dam favourites.

Torres is a singer-songwriter action-packed, energetic haven't lost their powerful Mon 12 Oct, Paradiso, 20:30, formerly of Nashville, these days A tribute to the King of Pop, this and hit-filled. storytelling. €17.50 residing in Brooklyn. On her evening will have you blaming second outing, Sprinter, she dug it on the boogie for sure. With Tue 22 Sep, Melkweg, Thur 22 Oct, Melkweg, NATHANIEL RATELIFF & up rock ‘n’ roll rather than her a band led by Danny Sahupala, 19:30, €33 19:30, €15 THE NIGHT SWEATS previous alt-country sound, for expect a number of guests to Taking his folk rock sound and a record that recalls Patti Smith perform Jackson’s biggest soul roots with emotions laid bare. follow-up of his break out alembedding a great deal of soul, and PJ Harvey. and pop hits.

Wed 23 & Thur 24 Sep, Royal bum Kaleidoscope Dream that Nathaniel Rateliff & The Night Tue 8 Sep, Paradiso, 19:30, €12 Sat 19 Sep, North Sea Jazz Theatre Carré, 20:00, €35 helped redefine the genre.

Sweats moves away from folks Club, 21:00, €17.50-€22.50 GZA Mon 5 Oct, Paradiso, 19:00, like Bon Ivor and Bill Callahan VAN MORRISON MENACE BEACH €33 for something upbeat and vital Founding member of the The legendary bluesman re– which might explain why his Wu-Tang Clan, GZA returns Following a series of EPs and THE DUBLIN LEGENDS leased Duets: Re-working the new EP Howling At Nothing is to Amsterdam on a solo tour. seven-inches, five-piece MenCatalogue earlier this year. It After 50 years of performance, released on the Stax label, home Though he hasn’t dropped ace Beach, out of Leeds, have saw him reworking old classics the legendary Dubliners called to soul legends Otis Redding a new record since 2008’s released melodic indie LP Ratas duets with the likes of Miit quits. However key members and the Staple Singers.

Pro Tools, the rapper has world. They recall guitar-laden chael Bublé, Bobby Womack Sean Cannon and Eamonn Mon 12 Oct, Bitterzoet, 20:00, just released new single ‘The ’90s garage rock. and Mark Knopfler.

Campbell, together with Gerry €14 Mexican’, with mariachi-laced Sun 20 Sep, Bitterzoet, 20:00, Sun 27 Sep, Heineken Music O’Connor of Four Men and a guitar licks thanks to Rage €10 AXWELL & INGROSSO Hall, 20:00, €79-€89 Dog and banjo player Paul WaAgainst the Machine’s Tom MIKA tchorn, formed The Dublin Leg- Two thirds of massive EDM outMorello.

FELABRATION ends, so expect great pedigree fit Swedish House Mafia, Axwell Wed 9 Sep, Melkweg, 19:30, This Brit singer-songwriter A celebration of afro-beat piofrom the real deal when they and Ingrosso are set for a huge €24 struck chart success in 2007

POP & JAZZ

Choice pop & jazz

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PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ / CLASSICAL

FALL OUT BOY The US pop rock band showcase their American Beauty/ American Psycho Tour album. If you aren’t familiar with the new poppy sound, they’re certain to blast out some of their harsher punk and emo, too.

Tue 20 Oct, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €38 METRIC Out of Toronto’s fertile indie music scene, finding time between their many side-projects and collaborations, the award-winning synth-popsters Metric return to Amsterdam in support of their sixth record Pagans in Vegas.

Tues 20 Oct, Paradiso, 20:30, €17 A$AP ROCKY A$AP Rocky’s latest record, the punctuation-challenged At.Long.Last.A$AP is a veritable who’s who of rap, with fellow new school artists like Future, Miguel and Joe Fox, stalwarts like Kanye West, Lil Wayne, Mos Def and MIA… Even Rod Stewart makes an appearance on hit single ‘Everyday’.

Wed 21 Oct, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €42.50

material from their new album Shadowmaker, which features vocalist Franky Perez.

Fri 23 Oct, Melkweg, 19:30, €22.50

dition of Nina Rota’s immortal piece of tonight’s programme score by the Royal Flemish Philis Pergolesi’s ’Stabat Mater’. It harmonic orchestra, led by US is joined by sonatas by Scarlatti conductor Justin Freer. The film and a piece by 20th-century will be shown in a re-mastered Respighi, who was heavily influHD version on a wide screen, enced by old music from Italy.

ICP ORCHESTRA with heightened drama from the Thur 14 Sep, Royal ConcertgeSome of its members are geticonic film music. bouw, 20:15, €50 ting on in years – fair play, this Wed 28 Oct, Heineken Music BARRY DOUGLAS – BRAHMS ensemble was originally estabHall, 20:00, €53.90-€64.90 AND SCHUBERT lished in 1967 – but the Instant LET’S DANCE Composers Pool can still rock The Irish piano virtuoso is a true and shock most of their youthful A night of funk, disco and Brahms specialist. Tonight he peers under the table. You see, dance, turning the Ziggo Dome combines the Paganini variations be it freak-out jazz or more clasinto a discotheque and sparand later, more introvert pieces sical structures, these players klefest. It brings together disco with works by that other great have an apparent mind meld legends KC and the Sunshine romantic: Schubert. that allows them to break every Band, best known for their Fri 18 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t rule and push every boundary classics ‘Get Down Tonight’ and IJ, 20:15, €36 while remaining on the same ‘Give It Up’, with Sister Sledge frenetic page. and their hits ‘We Are Family’ AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA – VAN DER AA, BARTOK AND Fri 23 Oct, Bimhuis, 20:30, €20 and ‘Lost in Music’. Joining STRAVINSKY them will be Don Diablo and SLEAFORD MODS Dutch dancer Timor.

An evening full of sonic compeProlific and relentless, SleaThur 29 & Fri 30 Oct, Ziggo tition and alternation: Michel ford Mods have released eight Dome, 20:30, €25-€68.50 van der Aa’s Hysteresis, the Sinalbums since 2007 including fonietta is joined by electronic 2015’s Key Markets. The duo sounds, Bartók’s Divertimento from Nottingham mix postis defined by a playful dialogue punk and hip-hop with a between soloist and ensemble, CLASSICAL distinct British attitude (and while Stravinsky’s Concerto for OPENING CONCERT vitriol). Singer-poet Jason WilTwo Pianos is performed by the liamson recalls the likes of Mike wunderkind Jussen brothers.

The Noorderkerk opens its Skinner, John Cooper Clarke Sat 19 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, concert season with Maarten and Shaun Ryder.

14:15, €32-€37 Koningsberger and the Matangi Fri 23 Oct, Melkweg, 19:30, €15 Quartet performing Schumann’s Dichterliebe.

ERIC BIBB Sat 5 Sep, Noorderkerk, time & With music in his blood, Eric price TBC Bibb is the son of American folk ESSEN PHILHARMONIC singer Leon Bibb, a contemORCHESTRA – DEBUSSY porary to Pete Seeger and Bob AND DVORÁK Dylan. Bibb junior last year released new record Blues People, The Essen Philharmonic evokes a tribute to Martin Luther King, fairy tales and new worlds with featuring guest performances by works by Kodály, Debussy and The Blind Boys of Alabama and Dvorák that tell stories without Taj Mahal. words.

Sat 24 Oct, North Sea Jazz Club, Sun 6 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 21:00, €18-€21 11:00, €20-€26

FINK IN CONCERT In 2013 British musician Fin Greenall, better known as Fink, released Fink Meets The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra folZAPPA PLAYS ZAPPA RESIDENTIE ORKEST lowing on from a 2012 Queen’s – TRIPLE MOZART Night performance between Rock legend Frank Zappa’s the two outfits. Since then Fink musical legacy will be on display Jan Willem de Vriend, resident released last year’s Hard Believer when his son Dweezil returns conductor at the Residentie and this year’s Horizontalism. to Amsterdam. Dweezil has Orkest, has adored Mozart from For this performance, expect been playing his father’s mua young age, and this evening’s only Fink and his guitar to be sical tribute for ten years now, programme beautifully repredazzling in the beautiful concert proving he’s very in touch with sents the composer’s versatility, hall. the compositions, skills and from the lively Fifth Symphony Thur 22 Oct, Royal Concertgeidiosyncrasies that made Frank through the ambitious Symphobouw, 20:00, €42.35 great through the ’60s with ny No. 35, to the Fifth Violin Mothers of Invention, to his solo Concerto (featuring Israeli soloist APOCALYPTICA ’70s work.

Guy Braunstein), which is also They’re one of the world’s most Sat 24 Oct, Melkweg, 19:30, €35 known as the ‘Turkish Concerto’. popular cello ensembles and Sun 13 Sep, Royal ConcertgePOPA CHUBBY they just so happen to be a heavy bouw, 11:00, €20-€26 metal band as well, initially Popa Chubby is a heavy blues SAN FRANCISCO making their name covering and virtuoso guitarist out of the SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA – Metallica songs. As well as some Bronx. Influenced by the likes MAHLER old-school rock, look out for of Jimi Hendrix and Cream, as well as classic blues artists like One of the United State’s most advert BB King and John Lee Hooker, important orchestras comes to Chubby is a true troubadour. town to perform Mahler’s First Amsterdam Sun 25 Oct, North Sea Jazz Club, Symphony, plus Beethoven’s 21:00, €20-€24.

Piano Concerto No 4. Michael Castle Tilson Thomas conducts.

Muiderslot Sun 13 Sep, Royal ConcertgeSON LUX bouw, 20:15, €43-€95 New York-based songwriter CHORUS OF THE DUTCH Ryan Lott has made a name for NATIONAL OPERA – himself with electronic-drivVERDI’S REQUIEM en pop that blends together pop purity with complex and One of Europe’s most ambitious thoughtful structures. opera choirs performs Verdi’s Mon 26 Oct, Bitterzoet, 21:00, monumental requiem. €16 Mon 14 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €22-€48 THE GODFATHER LIVE IN CONCERT AMSTERDAM CHAMBERORCHESTRA – ITALY! This screening of Francis Ford Coppola’s 1972 cinematic classic It’s a trip back in time to sunny www.muiderslot.nl is accompanied by a live ren17th-century Italy as the centre-

Thursday.

Tue 22 & Thur 24 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €47 MARK PADMORE – DIE SCHÖNE MÜLLERIN The British tenor begins his journey through Schubert’s lieder with one of the most famous ones. He is joined by Kristian Bezuidenhout on the fortepiano.

Tue 22 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €30-€47 LUNCH-TIME CONCERT This is the opening concert of a series of eight free lunch-time concerts that showcase the talents of up-and-coming musicians.

Thur 24 Sep & 15 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 12:30, free ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA – DREAM OF THE SONG These two nights mark the world premiere of a work by British composer George Benjamin, commissioned and performed by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra.

Fri 25 & Sat 26 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €25-€57.50

Choice classical

TEN YEARS MUZIEKGEBOUW It's hard to believe this glistening waterfront concert hall is already turning ten – it still feels as futuristic on the outside as the performances that take place on the inside.

They’ll certainly celebrate their birthday in style, hosting concerts from Muziekgebouw faves (Amsterdam Sinfonietta, Cappella Amsterdam), as well as highlighting top contemporary ensembles, offering tours, laser shows and even after-hours parties.

Fri 11-Sun 13 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan’t IJ, various times and prices

©MARK MCNULTY

night of house music. Expect all their individual big hits such as Axwell’s ’Feel the Vibe’ and ’I Found U’, Ingrosso’s ’Reload’ and ’Calling’ as well as all their remixes and Swedish House Mafia tunes.

Fri 16 Oct, Heineken Music Hall, 23:00, €39.50

RADIO PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA – DANCES OF DEATH Death is one of the foremost sources of inspiration for composers; while some focus on anger and denial, others write about death as a moment of calm and peace. Instrumental requiems by Japanese composer Takemitsu, Mussorgsky's Songs and Dances of Death, Shostakovich's tragic eighth symphony all share the stage for a last hurrah.

Sat 10 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:15, €32-€37

LUDWIG ROSANNE PHILIPPENS – THE The Dutch ensemble gets inFOUR SEASONS spired by two instruments that The acclaimed Dutch violinist are not often seen in classical plays Vivaldi’s much-loved masconcert halls: the Hungarian terpiece. cimbalom and the pump organ, Sun 20 Sep, Royal Concertgeboth much loved among contembouw, 14:15, €35 porary composers such as Florian Magnus Maier and Peter EötMATTHIAS GOERNE – vös. The evening’s programme SCHUBERT also includes Debussy’s ’Prelude It’s a Schubert double bill from à l’après-midi d’un faune’ and the famous baritone as he sings Fauré’s ’Pavane’. ’Die schöne Müllerin’ on Tues- Sun 27 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t day and ’Schwanengesang’ on IJ, 20:15, €29.50

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sep & oct 2015

NIL KOCAMANGIL The young cellist Nil Kocamangil, seen as a true cello phenomenon, performs 19th- and 20th-century classics by Schumann, Brahms and Debussy. She is accompanied by the Japanese pianist Noriko Yabe.

Sun 27 Sep, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:30, €22.50/€36 DARIA VAN DEN BERCKEN – MUCHADO ABOUT A MENUET Dutch pianist Daria van den Bercken combines Mozart minuets and other dances with contemporary dance music by way of new works by David Dramm, Martin Fondse and Maarten Ornstein.

Wed 30 Sep, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €29.50 ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA – FAURÉ’S REQUIEM Fauré’s Requiem is surprisingly light, but this makes it just more consoling. The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra performs it as part of its tradition of putting on a requiem each autumn.

Wed 30 Sep, Thur 1 & Sun 4 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, Sun at 14:30, €30-€95 ASKO|SCHÖNBERG – DIE KLAGE UM LINOS The ensemble performs a new work by Dutch composer Astrid Kruisselbrink as well as works by her heroes: Sofia Gubaidulina, Galina Ustvolskaya and György Kurtág.

Thur 1 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, 20:15, €29.50 ROTTERDAM PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA – MAHLER Robin Ticciati conducts Mahler’s Fourth Symphony. The composer considerably influenced Berg’s Sieben frühe Lieder, which are also on the programme tonight, sung by soprano Sally Matthews.

Fri 2 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €32/€40 HOLLAND BAROQUE SOCIETY – KUNST DER FUGE The Holland Baroque Society dedicates this concert to Bach’s masterful Kunst der Fuge.

Saturday 3 Oct, Noorderkerk NETHERLANDS CHAMBER ORCHESTRA – GRIEG AND KNIGGE A particularly personal and intimate evening, as Slovenian alto Barbara Kozelj sings poems that were written about her life by Lex Bohlmeijer, set to music by Max Knigge. The programme is completed by Liederen by Grieg and Janácek’s Second String Quartet, ‘Intimate Letters’.

Sat 3 & Tue 6 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €20-€49 RADIO PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA – SLEEPING BEAUTY The Hilversum-based Radio

Philharmonic Orchestra perGreek poet Kavafis, Una Odissea forms Tchaikovsky’s popular feels like it could have been perballet. formed on a Mediterranean marSun 4 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, ket some 400 years ago. In fact, 11:00, €20-€26 it was written 12 years ago by the Italian tenor Marco Beasley and PYGMALION – FROM composer Guido Morini.

SCHÜTZ TO BACH Wed 14 & Thur 15 Oct, Royal The acclaimed French ensemble Concertgebouw, 20:15, €36 performs Bach and works by NETHERLANDS his less famous colleagues such as Heinrich Schütz, Christoph PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA – MENDELSSOHN AND Bernhard, Nicolaus Bruhns, BEETHOVEN Matthias Weckmann, Christian Geist and Johann Krieger.

The orchestra is joined by pianist Wed 7 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t Yevgeny Sudbin for Julius RöntIJ, 20:15, €33 gen’s 1930 Bitonal Symphony, Beethoven’s ‘Emperor’ Piano COLLEGIUM VOCALE GENT Concerto and Mendelssohn’s + I SOLISTI DEL VENTO – Italian Symphony. Ivor Bolton STRAVINSKY AND conducts.

BREWAEYS Sat 17 & Sun 18 Oct, Royal ConStravinsky’s mass is supplementcertgebouw, 20:15 (Sat), 14:15 ed tonight by new work by the (Sun), €20-€49 Flemish composer Luc Brewaeys THE NETHERLANDS BACH and the English renaissance SOCIETY – BACH SOLO composer John Dowland.

Thur 8 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t Bach was not only a composer, IJ, 20:15, €33 he was also an accomplished musician. Tonight’s programme COMBATTIMENTO + gives an idea of the solo pieces he LIZA FERSCHTMAN wrote for himself.

The famous violinist joins Sat 17 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, Combattimento for an energetic 20:15, €32.50 programme featuring Vivaldi’s HOLLAND BAROQUE Grosso Mogul violin concerto, SOCIETY – SOUNDS & intimate chamber music by Bach CLOUDS and the First Violin Concerto by composer Pietro Locatelli.

The renowned ensemble has Fri 9 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t teamed up with the Berlin-based IJ, 20:15, €33 cultural initiative Radialsystem V for this unusual form of music AMSTERDAM SINFONIETTA theatre with works by Vivaldi & SERGEY KHACHATRYAN and the Japanese composer Armenian violin virtuoso Sergey Toshio Hosokawa.

Khachatryan plays the lyrical, Tue 20 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t rarely performed violin concerto IJ, 20:15, €29.50 by his compatriot Alexander NIEUW ENSEMBLE Arutiunian, which is dedicated to – UNSUK CHIN the memory of the victims of the 1988 earthquake in Armenia.

The internationally celebrated Sat 10 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t South Korean composer Unsuk IJ, 20:15, €36 Chin wrote works for the Nieuw Ensemble for two decades.

THE BACH ORCHESTRA Thur 22 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan OF THE NETHERLANDS – ’t IJ, 20:15, €29.50 MOZART ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW The orchestra is joined by sopraORCHESTRA – BACH AND no Olga Zinovieva for an evening BRAHMS of Mozart arias, with the spectacular ‘Queen of the Night’ aria as The Royal Concertgebouw Orits climax. chestra explores the relationship Sat 10 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, between Bach and Brahms.

19:30, €50-€75 Tonight, they’re joined by the Netherlands Chamber Choir for DENIS MATSUEV – a performance of a cantata and THE SEASONS a motet by the former, and the Russian superstar pianist stops latter’s Fourth Symphony. off at Concertgebouw for a perFri 23 & Sun 25 Oct, Royal formance of Tchaikovsky’s The Concertgebouw, 20:15 (Fri), 14:15 Seasons, plus Schumann’s Kreis(Sun), €25-€100 leriana and three parts from SIMONE LAMSMA Stravinsky’s Petrushka.

Sun 11 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, One of the Netherlands’ fore20:15, €38/€47.50 most violinists, Simone Lamsma comes to the Muziekgebouw for ORCHESTRA OF THE 18TH early romantic works by MenCENTURY – THE MARRIAGE delssohn and Schumann, plus OF FIGARO Janácek’s Violin Sonata.

Joined by Cappella Amsterdam, Sat 24 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t the orchestra performs Mozart’s IJ, 20:15, €33 Figaro, which, despite a whirlNETHERLANDS CHAMBER wind storyline, leaves plenty of ORCHESTRA – STRAVINSKY space for social criticism.

AND SCHÖNBERG Wed 14 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 19:30, €27-€72 Stravinsky’s Dumbarton Oaks and Pierrot Lunaire by SchönNETHERLANDS WIND berg, with Gordan Nikolic, ENSEMBLE + MARCO leader of the orchestra, as solo BEASLEY – UNA ODISSEA violinist.

Based on Homer’s Odyssey and Sat 24 & Tue 27 Oct, Royal Coninspired by the poem Ithaca by certgebouw, 20:15, €20-€49

Choice classical

© MARGARETTA MITCHELL

THE NETHERLANDS BACH SOCIETY – SOLO CANTATAS The Bach Society performs a programme of intriguing Bach cantatas.

Sun 27 Sep, Waalse Kerk, 16:00

AAA: BREAKING NEWS – JOHN ADAMS An illustrious visitor comes to the equally illustrious Concertgebouw, as John Adams stops by to conduct his new violin concerto Scheherazade.2, commissioned by the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra. Inspired by current events – in this case, oppressed women in the Middle East and elsewhere standing up to their oppressors, the concerto was written for violinist Leila Josefowicz, who plays it today.

Thur 15 & Fri 16 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 21:15 (Thur), 20:15 (Fri), €23-€47 CALEFAX – CALEFAX 30! orchestra for Beethoven’s and Tchaikovsky’s sixth symphonies.

The reed quintet celebrates its 30th anniversary with a concert Fri 30 Oct, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:15, €25-€100 series in which it performs with a variety of renowned soloists like Ivo Janssen (piano), soprano CELLO BIENNALE AMSTERNora Fischer and Stefan Lakatos DAM 2016 – SNEAK PREVIEW (trimba). Works include a new A sneak preview of the upcoming edition of the Cello Biënnale. piece by Rob Zuidam, Ravel’s Ma Sat 31 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t mère l’oye, Bach’s Brandenburg IJ, 20:15, €36 Concerto No 5 and new work by Kinan Azmeh.

ADDRESSES Sun 25 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t Amstelkerk IJ, 20:15, €29.50 Amstelveld 10 THE CLASSICAL PROMS www.amstelkerk.net Bimhuis The latest entry in the beloved Piet Heinkade 3 series features the Bach Choir www.bimhuis.nl and Orchestra of the NetherBitterzoet lands and piano virtuoso Jan Spuistraat 2 Vayne with Caccini’s ‘Ave Maria’, www.bitterzoet.com the ‘Habanera’ from Carmen and De Duif a modern version of Vivaldi’s Prinsengracht 756 Four Seasons. www.deduif.net Sun 25 Oct, Royal ConcertgeHeineken Music Hall bouw, 19:30, €50-€75 ArenA Boulevard 590 REINBERT DE LEEUW – SATIE www.heineken-music-hall.nl Melkweg In the 1980s, famous Dutch piaLijnbaansgracht 234A nist De Leeuw had a bestselling www.melkweg.nl album with his Satie recordings.

Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Wed 28 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan ’t Piet Heinkade 1 IJ, 20:15, €36 www.muziekgebouw.nl ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW North Sea Jazz Club ORCHESTRA & GUSTAVO Pazzanistraat 1 GIMENO AND YUJA WANG www.northseajazzclub.com Paradiso The orchestra is joined by guest Weteringschans 6-8 conductor Gustavo Gimeno and www.paradiso.nl pianist Yuja Wang for a perforRoyal Concertgebouw mance of Tchaikovsky’s Second Concertgebouw 10 Piano Concerto and Rimskiwww.concertgebouw.nl Korsakov’s Scheherazade.

Royal Theatre Carré Wed 28 & Thur 29 Oct, Royal Amstel 115 /125 Concertgebouw, 20:15, €25-€100 https://carre.nl ASKO|SCHÖNBERG – NEAR Sugarfactory EAST UP NORTH Lijnbaansgracht 238 www.sugarfactory.nl Jazz pianist and composer Tolhuistuin Martin Fondse explores the IJpromenade 2 boundaries of improvisation and www.tolhuistuin.nl composition, jazzy rhythms and Vondelkerk traditional Turkish melodies.

Vondelstraat 120 Thur 29 Oct, Muziekgebouw aan www.stadsherstel.nl ’t IJ, 20:15, €29.50 Ziggo Dome ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW De Passage 100 ORCHESTRA – www.ziggodome.nl BEETHOVEN’S SIXTH Gustavo Gimeno conducts the

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PART IV THE A-LIST

CLUBBING & NIGHTLIFE CLUBBING

MR SCRUFF A live gig by one of the dinosaurs of the Ninja Tune label and the man who remixed Moondog’s odd jazz track ‘Bird’s Lament’ and turned it into a radio friendly 4/4 club hit: Mr Scruff. For fans of the grey area between loungey triphop and house music.

Fri 18 Sep, Tolhuistuin, 23.0005.00, €18.15

JORIS VOORN The unusual has been the new normal for a while now but seeing one of the biggest Dutch techno DJs play a 5-hour set in Holland’s most renowned venue for classical music is still unusually unusual. Voorn fans clearly agree as early-bird tickets CHCGO are already sold out as we speak.

Supporting is a DJ who some We could not quite believe our may argue is even bigger than Mr ears when we heard the news Voorn: Dimitri Kneppers, who from Canvas’ programming allegedly mixes melodies rather department… K’Alexi Shelby, for than beats. real? Paul Johnson, on the same Fri 4 Sep, Concertgebouw, night…?? These guys - two of 19.00-02.00, €39 the most exciting house DJ/producers from the windy city – will KIS no doubt tear the roof off this Local techno heroes of various former newspaper HQ. Essential generations playing melodic clubbing. stuff. With Steve Rachmad (the Sat 19 Sep, Canvas, 23.00granddad), Carlos Valdes (head04.00, €12 ing towards middle age) and Tim THESE GUYS Hoeben (the kiddo) plus from Berlin DJ Cassy.

He’s not spotted very often on Fri 4 Sep, Studio 80, 23.00, Dutch soil, Detroit’s unique hip €13 hop and house producer Andrés aka DJ Dez (Mahogani Music).

PLEINVREES If name dropping usually helps The daytime event for fans of to convince you here goes: the hands-up-in-the-air druggy man has worked with the likes of techno from Germany with Sony Moodymann, Theo Parrish and Music’s hit maker DJ Alle Fareven the late J Dilla. ben, Daniel Bortz, Guy Berber, Sat 19 Sep, Closure, 23.00Interstellar Funk, Gardens of 05.00, €14 God, Marcus Worgull, Monkey LOOK OUT BELOW Safari, Olivier Weiter, Arjuna Schiks (live), Miss Melera, Oliver Blue Note, Brownswood and Koletzki (live) and more people Stones Throw’s favourite Belgian from the big country to the east.

DJ Lefto is a regular at Canvas Sat 5 Sep, Sportpark Riekerand loved for his heady hip hop haven, 12.00-23.00, €29.50 sets. Also playing are Sola Rosa (live), Sacha Vee (live) plus DJs VALTIFEST Fox & Mink.

One of those festivals where it’s Sat 25 Sep, Canvas, 23.00more about the party than the 04.00, €10 music, but what a party it is!

MAJOR LAZER LIVE The dress code suggests as much anyway; you may come as a pizza According to us, the nightlife baker, Tintin in Transylvania, team at A-Mag, there is no such a UN soldier, an Amazonian thing as overrating the skills of shaman etc, etc. DJs and live acts Diplo, the mastermind behind for the night are: Dutch slapstick the world’s biggest ever dancehip hop ensemble De Jeugd Van hall-pop project Major Lazer.

Tegenwoordig, The Flexican & Just when you thought it couldn’t Sef, Tom Trago, Elias Mazian, get any catchier after the group’s Nobody Beats The Drum, WANsingle ‘Get Free’, Diplo beat his NABEASTAR, Benny Rodrigues old hit by 10-0 by asking Danish B2B Michel De Hey, Joost ‘Bam singer MØ to feature on the Bam’ Van Bellen, Dimitri, Mike song ‘Lean On’. Creating dance Risk and many more. floor hits without getting into Sat 5 Sep, NDSM, 13.00-23.00, the corny corners of the musical €45 spectrum is a very difficult craft, but Diplo certainly masters it.

50 HURTZ This is going to be one hell of a Call it a tribute to a dying genbanging sing-along dance party. re. How much longer will this Sat 3 Oct, Heineken Music Hall, club night dedicated to dubstep 20.30, €35 continue to exist? This is where THE ORB our cynicism stops, however, because the South London genre Initially known for their trippy is still undeniably banging. DJs sound, ambient house duo The Cookie Monsta, Trolley Snatcha, Orb were among the first elecFuntcase, The Illuminated, Lost, tronic artists to play live sets at Bukez Finezt and Shiverz. rock festivals in the early ’90s, Fri 11 Sep, Melkweg, 23.00, famously causing many visitors €18.15 of Dutch festival Pinkpop 1994 to leave the party early as they NEXT MONDAY’S expected riffs rather than soundHANGOVER scapes. The Orbs more recent The party organisation that once output on the Kompakt label suffered from city council harhas a distinctive minimal techno assment due to its funny name vibe to it. is throwing another one for fans Wed 7 Oct, Melkweg, 19.30, of uplifting house and techno €20.45 featuring DJs Malawi, Culoe De NON RECORDS Song, Massimiliano Pagliara, Manamana and Pachanga Boys.

Amsterdam retro-synth label Sat 12 Sep, De Marktkantine, NON think it’s time for a biggie.

22.00-05.00, €15 Very special guest tonight is

Choice clubbing

ADE: CRÈME ORGANISATION X THE TRILOGY TAPES The line-up for this evening was still a mystery to us and everyone else when we went to print, but we can tell you this much: if you’re into mind-bending, left-field and revolutionary electronic music, this will be one of your ADE highlights. With The Hague’s Crème Organisation operating on the italo/electro spectrum of the electronic universe, this is guarenteed to be a mouth-watering night of deep and dark club music.

Thur 15 Oct, Studio 80, 23.00-08.00, €18

909 FIVE-YEAR ANNIVERSARY Widely known for his punishing hard techno sets, Jeff ‘the wizard’ Mill’s music is also strikingly subtle and emotional. Our claim is straightforward and simple: if you love club music you will not regret going. It’s like a swim when it’s slightly chilly, you don’t want to leave your comfort zone, but in the end there are no regrets.

Fri 16 Oct, Warehouse 22, 22.00-06.00, €17.50 DMX Krew aka Ed DMX, who does not get to visit the Rhine delta very often. Booty shaking vibes are guaranteed tonight, whichever route the man decides to take. Also DJ-ing are Andras Fox, Betonkust, Renkas and friends.

Sat 10 Oct, OT301, 23.00-08.00, €15 25 YEARS OF NINJA TUNE Interestingly, this anniversary party features several artists who have never released a single disk on the smokey London triphop label once started by production duo Coldcut. The biggest inhouse hotshot is Bonobo who will step away from his usual live-set to give you an inside view of his undoubtedly interesting vinyl collection. He is joined by Machinedrum, whose rhythm infused beats come with psychedelic melodies.

Thu 15 Oct, Melkweg, 23.00, €25

JAMIE XX DJ, remixer and musician Jamie Smith aka Jamie xx of the band The xx is one of the most exciting artists of the current electronic scene, hands down. His autumn tour is to celebrate the release of his debut album In Colour on which he proves to be one of the most incredible garage/bass/jungle artists to date. You better get as excited as we already are! Thur 22 Oct, Paradiso, 19.00, €17 ADE BREAKFAST CLUB DAY 1 Do people even work in this city??? To all the bosses out there: expect plenty of sickies next week as the Breakfast Club is serving those who need another ten hours of partying by the time you get up to go for a run at the weekend.

Fri 16 Oct, Closure, 07.0017.00, €22 HYTE X FRRC Internationally operating party peeps Hyte join hands with FRRC for an industrial-style rave with DJs playing techno, tech house and minimal. The definite highlight on the bill is German-Chilean superstar DJ and party animal Ricardo Villalobos.

Fri 16 Oct, Warehouse Elementenstraat, 22.00, €22.50

ADE BREAKFAST CLUB DAY 2 Levon Vincent, one of the biggest names in dub techno, headlines this evening, which is more like a morning/matinee event if you look at the time schedule carefully. Vincent is joined by abstract house producer Terekke (live) of New York’s much hyped L.I.E.S. label, DJ Qu, Brent Roozendaal and Tommy Kornuijt.

Sat 17 Oct, Closure, 07.00-17.00, €22 ADE: YORUBA RECORDS A one-man show by Yoruba’s head honcho Osunlade, who also worked with huge names outside the scene including Roy Ayers, Cesária Évoria and Salif Keita. If that’s not unusual enough, Osunlade is also a priest of West Africa’s Yoruba religion. You get it, be prepared for a night of spiritual club music with an organic feel!

Sat 17 Oct, Canvas, 23.0004.00, €12 ADE BREAKFAST CLUB DAY 3 The third and last morning of Breakfast at ADE is again very interesting with Italy’s Donato Dozzy playing a hybrid live/DJ set. Dozzy’s music is very trippy and mind-elevating, so watch out. Peter van Hoesen, Marco Shuttle and Tom Liem assist Dozzy in keeping you awake.

Sun 18 Oct, Closure, 07.0017.00, €22 A$AP ROCKY & WIZ KHALIFA A massive duo gig by two of the biggest names in modern day American party hip hop. Tearing down of walls guaranteed.

Wed 21 Oct, Heineken Music Hall, 20.00, €42.50 OWN THE NIGHT A DJ called Intergalactic Gary must play vintage sci-fi music and that’s exactly what this man does: expect a selection of heavily vocodered italo disco, ghetto electro blended with a bit of acid house, Chicago house and other non-Shazamable electronic obscurities.

Sat 24 Oct, Canvas, 23.00, €12 ADDRESSES Canvas Wibautstraat 150 www.canvasopde7e.nl Closure Rozengracht 133 www.facebook.com/ closureamsterdam Club Up Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 26-1 www.clubup.nl De Marktkantine Jan van Gallenstraat 6 www.marktkantine.nl Noorderlicht NDSM Plein 102 www.noorderlichtcafe.nl OCCII Amstelveenseweg 134 www.occii.org Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Studio 80 Rembrandtplein 17 www.studio-80.nl De Waterkant Marnixstraat 246 www.waterkantamsterdam.nl

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sep & oct 2015

STAGE

THE HIDDEN FORCE 8 OCT | SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

THEATRE: DE STILLE KRACHT This production is the first in a series of adaptations of novels

by Louis Couperus. De Stille Kracht (The Hidden Force) is set in the Dutch colony of Java,

Choice theatre

Tue 13, Thur 15, Fri 16, Sat 17, Sun 18, Fri 23, Sat 24, Fri 30, Sat 31 Oct, Dutch National Opera and Ballet, 20:15, Sunday on 14:00, €18-€90

IDIL-SUKAN-DRAW-HQ

biologically augmented founder of a biotech company, and Beth, who is struggling with climate change effects and suffering from anxiety attacks.

THEATRE: NETHERLANDS Thur 3, Fri 4, Sat 12, Sun 13 THEATER FESTIVAL September, Het Amsterdams Theaterhuis, 20:30 (Thur), The Dutch Theatre Festival is a 17:00 (Fri, Sat, Sun), €11 celebration of Dutch and Flemish theatre.

SPOKEN WORD: JOHN Thur 3-Sun 13 Sep, various COOPER CLARKE locations, times & prices The northern English poet THEATRE: AMSTERDAM recites a selection of his works FRINGE with typical punk-rock fervour and no-holds-barred wit.

The festival for young, fresh ’n’ Fri 4 September, Bitterzoet, new theatre takes over Amster21:00, €15 dam’s stages, clubs, streets and living rooms once again with COMEDY: GREG PROOPS more than 80 performances, This American stand-up made many of which are suitable for his name on improv show non-Dutch speakers.

Whose Line Is It Anyway?

Thur 3-Sun 13 Sep, various Now he’s back doing what he locations, times & prices. does best: sitting in front of an THEATRE: ANNE audience and just letting the conversation flow.

This ongoing production at a Sun 6 Sep, Toomler, 20:30, €15 custom-built theatre in Amsterdam’s docklands is directly DANCE: GALA based on the Diary of Anne The Dutch National Ballet Frank and the Frank family opens the new ballet season archives. Although this grand with a grand and glittering production is in Dutch, a dedgala with nearly 200 dancers. icated translation system is The entire ensemble performs available. in a Grand Défilé alongside Various dates & times until pupils of the National Ballet 27 Sep, Theater Amsterdam, €20-€75 (may still be extended Academy in a rich and varied programme. again) Tue 8 Sep, Dutch National COMEDY: 21 YEARS OF Opera and Ballet, 19:30, €60MOCKERY €125 21 Years of Mockery examines THEATRE: MEDEA the culture clash that happens when American comedians set Euripides’ tragic heroine is one of the most divisive figures of up in Amsterdam. The resulting show is two hours of laughs Greek drama. In this modernised version by Toneelgroep and edge-of-the-seat improvAmsterdam, she is a successful isation. doctor who tries to save her Various dates & times in Sep marriage and career while her & Oct, Boom Chicago, €11mental health, family life and €36.50 career deteriorate until she falls COMEDY: SHOT OF IMPROV into the abyss. With English Shot of Improv sees the entire surtitles on the following dates.

Thur 8 Sep & Thur 15 Oct, Boom Chicago cast take to the Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €15stage, so the laughs are guar€32.50 anteed to keep on comin’. Completely different each week, it’s a show that starts big and never COMEDY: MARC DE HOND – SHARDS BRING GOOD slows down.

FORTUNE Various dates & times in Sep Marc de Hond delivers a hu& Oct, Boom Chicago, 22:30, morous look at the positive €10-€20 consequences of being in a THEATRE: STRANGE DIVIDE wheelchair (free parking, good seats at gigs, never needing a Orange Tea Theatre’s ‘sci-fi chat-up line), explaining how rom-com’, written by Esther the most dramatic event of his O’Toole and premiering as life ended up having beautiful part of the Amsterdam Fringe and inspiring consequences. programme, tells the story of Sun 20 Sep, Boom Chicago, Alice Dawes, super-rich and 20:00, €10-€20 advert DANCE: WALTZ/INFINITE & STAIRS Tonight sees two Krisztina de Châtel choreographies presented in one evening programme.

The energetic pieces are danced by a mix of established and upand-coming dancers from four different dance academies in the Netherlands.

Fri 25 Sep, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10-€35

THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY

COMEDY: JOSIE LONG Part of the monthly Comedytrain International series at Toomler, it’s the turn of English comedian Josie Long to visit Amsterdam. Although not a massive TV name, she’s a leading light in the alternative comedy scene, enjoying a host of successful UK tours, as well as some weird and wonderful film projects.

Her early work was a tad more whimsical than now, which – if you were to follow her on Twitter – has taken on politics and positive activism. And ‘positive’ is a great buzz word for Long, for all her tales of heartbreak or woe, you’ll come away feeling brighter. Sun 4 Oct, Toomler, 20:30, €15

DANCE: HANS VAN MANEN – LIVE The Dutch National Ballet’s resident choreographer Hans van Manen, a pivotal figure in the Netherlands’ dance scene, has succeeded in bringing modern ballet to a wide audience. Tonight’s programme includes highlights from his career, including his acclaimed 1979 choreography Live, as well as a premiere of Two Gold Variations – Van Manen created it in 1999 for Nederlands Dans Theater, and it has not been performed in the Netherlands since then. Sat 12, Tue 15, Thur 17, Fri 18, Sun 20, Fri 25, Sat 26 Sep, Sat 3 & Sun 4 Oct, Dutch National Opera and Ballet, 20:15, Sundays on 14:00, €16-61 the story of a Dutch official ultimately defeated by the titular ‘silent force’, representing the irreconcilability of his colonial value system and the beliefs and society of the locals. In Dutch with English surtitles.

Thur 8 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €20.50-€33

OPERA: DER ROSENKAVALIER The Dutch National Opera opens its anniversary season in festive style with a new production of Richard Strauss’ popular opera, a tale of love, affairs and intrigue in the Vienna of the Austro-Hungarian times. The work touches on profound topics, such as the passing of time, but remains comical. The performance is four-and-a-half hours long with two intervals. Sung in German, with English and Dutch surtitles.

Sat 5, Wed 9, Sun 13, Wed 16, Sat 19, Thur 24, Sun 27, Wed 30 Sep, Dutch National Opera and Ballet, 18:30, Sundays on 13:30, €20-€176 OPERA: IL TROVATORE The DNO and the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra perform Verdi’s popular opera, a story full of love, violence.

Thur 8, Sun 11, Wed 14, Mon 19, Thur 22, Sun 25, Wed 28 Oct, Dutch National Opera and Ballet, 20:00, Sundays on 13:30, €20-€176

OPERA: MADAMA BUTTERFLY DANCE: GISELLE Puccini’s much-loved fifth opera about a Japanese girl beGiselle is one of the most imtrayed by an American officer is portant romantic ballets, and it performed by De Nederlandse is also one of the most challengReisopera. ing in terms of the dancers’ draThur 8 & Sat 10 Oct, Royal matic and emotional involveTheatre Carré, 20:00, €15-€70 ment and required empathy.

DANCE: GOLDEN HOURS (AS YOU LIKE IT) The new piece by the renowned Belgian choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker and her ensemble Rosas is based on Shakespeare’s pastoral comedy and set to music by Brian Eno. Wed 21 & Thur 22 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €20-€37.50 THEATRE: LA VOIX HUMAINE With La voix humaine, Jean Cocteau wrote the ultimate farewell monologue. Halina Reijn takes the audience with her into the sorrow of this woman. In Dutch, with English surtitles on the dates below.

Thur 22 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €15-€27.50 DANCE: HENRY The Rotterdam-based Scapino Ballet dances a new choreography by Itamar Serussi, an Israeli choreographer whose Wolf received rave reviews last year. Henry is a high-energy performance with a soundtrack of pop, dance and techno.

Mon 26 & Tue 27 Oct, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10-€37.50 OPERA: AIDA Verdi’s much-loved tale of love and betrayal in Egypt is performed in all its glory by the Tatarstan State Opera in a traditional production with glorious costumes and a grand set.

Sun 25 Oct, Meervaart, 14:30, €29-€39 ADDRESSES Boom Chicago Rozentheater Rozengracht 117 020 423 0101 www.boomchicago.nl Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 020 625 5455 www.operaballet.nl Frascati Nes 63, 020 626 6866 www.theaterfrascati.nl Meervaart Meer en Vaart 300 020 410 7777 www.meervaart.nl Pathé Tuschinski Reguliersbreestraat 26-34 www.pathe.nl RAI Theater Europaplein, 020 549 1212 www.raitheater.nl Royal Concertgebouw Concertgebouwplein 10 www.concertgebouw.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 0900 2525255 www.carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26, 020 624 2311 www.stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Theater Amsterdam Danzigerkade 5 www.theateramsterdam.nl Toomler Breitnerstraat 2 020 670 7400 www.toomler.nl

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS SWINGING SIXTIES LONDON – PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE CAPITAL OF COOL The exhibition explores everything from rock music to magazines and fashion revolutions to the birth of celebrity culture, with rarely seen photos.

Foam, until 2 Sep

that consciously experienced Indonesia’s digital revolution in the first decade of the 21st century.

Stedelijk Museum, until 6 Sep

advertorial

SECRET LOVE: SEXUAL DIVERSITY IN CHINA This art exhibition explores the state of social acceptance of LGBT people in today’s China.

Contemporary artists have played an important role in the shift in awareness and the fight for equal rights.

Tropenmuseum, until 13 Sep

CAIO REISEWITZ: FLORESTAS, FAVELAS & FALCATRUAS ARTZUID Forests, slums and swindles: During this four-month event, the title sums up the oeuvre of leading contemporary Brazilian amazing contemporary sculpphotographer Caio Reisewitz. tures from all over the world are installed in the district’s beauHis spectacular photos of the tiful Berlage-designed avenues Brazilian landscape are underand on the Zuidas business pinned by engagement with district. There’s free access to social issues such as the controthe sculptures 24/7. versial construction of the Belo Various locations – ARTZUID Monte Dam. Info Desk at Minervalaan 1, Huis Marseille, until 3 Sep until 20 Sep GABRIELLA INGRAM FOTOWEEK 2015 Known for her experimental The theme for this year’s event use of materials and modern is ‘Look! My Street’, and aims to techniques, British designer Gabriella Ingram showcases her encourage people to pick up a latest collection of rubber-made camera and share their immediate surroundings. For details handbags. of this year’s Fotoweek event Museum of Bags and Purses, and exhibition programme, until 6 Sep head to the website at defoTATURO ATZU – THE toweek.nl.

GARDEN WHICH IS THE Various locations, 11-20 Sep NEAREST TO GOD UNSEEN PHOTO FAIR Experience the Oude Kerk from a brand new perspective, as cel- Showcasing fresh international ebrated Japanese artist Taturo photography, the Unseen Photo Fair focuses primarily on Atzu (formerly Tatzu Nishi) undiscovered photography transforms the church with a talent and unseen work by estemporary roof platform that tablished photographers. The explores the tensions between event also hosts special events public and private space. and activities around the city Oude Kerk, until 6 Sep centre.

LIFE IS STRANGE. PHOTOWestergasfabriek, 18-20 Sep GRAPHIC DISCOVERIES IN LANDSCAPE DRAWINGS POPULAR MAGAZINE 'HET LEVEN' This exhibition presents around The 235 photographs on display 120 drawings of landscapes and seascapes dating from between in this exhibition represent the 16th through the early 19th a unique opportunity to be century, showing how artists present at hundreds of extraorsuch as Rembrandt, Ruisdael dinary occasions, long after the and Brueghel travelled both event. their own country and the wider Huis Marseille, until 6 Sep world.

TROMARAMA Rijksmuseum, until 21 Sep The first European solo exhibiGET LOST – ART ROUTE tion of the Indonesian artists’ Get Lost develops temporary collective Tromarama, who art routes with young, promisexperiment with digital image ing artists. Their artworks are technology and animation. The artists are part of a generation commissioned by companies or organisations and are tempoadvert rarily placed in the public space.

Various locations in the Zuidas business district, until 25 Sep

NEW FOR NOW New for Now – The Origin of Fashion Magazines brings together more than 300 prints from the museum’s rich collection of costume and fashion prints in a major retrospective.

With works from the early 17th century until up to the first half of the 20th century, the exhibition illustrates the changing fashions in both womens- and menswear as well as charting how early fashion magazines evolved into the fashion glossies we know today.

Rijksmuseum, until 27 Sep

HIDDEN STORIES Amsterdam’s Royal Palace spills its secrets giving visitors the chance to discover the stories and symbolism behind the 350-year-old building’s many paintings and sculptures.

Royal Palace Amsterdam, until 27 Sep

MADE IN DE KERKSTRAAT Museum Van Loon reveals the secret history of the Kerkstraat, a street running through the centre of Amsterdam that was once the heart of the city’s carriage industry.

Museum van Loon, until 27 Sep

MEDEA 8 SEP, 15 OCT SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

Museum of Bags and Purses, until 8 Nov

Highlight Artis ARTIS, ©RONALD VAN WEEREN

TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS

GUIDED TOUR AT ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Take a peek behind the scenes with a guide at Artis Royal Zoo. Start at Monkey Island, explore the catacombs of the Aquarium, and learn which animal in Artis is closely related to the dodo. The guided tours will stop several times, for example to take a closer look at the edible garden. The tour is offered in Dutch and English.

Saturday and Sunday at 15:00, starting at Monkey Island DO-IT-YOURSELF BIRD FOOD GARLAND During the autumn holidays, Artis Royal Zoo invites you to learn all about birds, and what they eat at Artis Royal Zoo during autumn and winter. Create a handcrafted bird food garland, with treats like fruit and nuts, then decorate your own backyard with these birds’ favourites.

Daily from Saturday 17 Oct until Sunday 25 Oct, from 13:30 to 15:30, at the Fazanterie kitchen Artis Royal Zoo is open every day. Tickets are free for children aged 0 to 2, €16.50 for children aged 3 to 9 and €19.95 for 10+. Reservations for activities are not required. www.artis.nl Jan Willem Pieneman’s ‘The Battle of Waterloo’ from 1824.

It is accompanied by various Waterloo veterans, such as Wexy, the Prince of Orange’s horse, on an oil painting, Dutch veterans from Den Bosch on a self-commissioned portrait and 15 French soldiers proudly assembling in full regalia for a series of photographs, taken more than 40 years after the battle.

Rijksmuseum, until 27 Sep

EYEWITNESSES OF NIEUWE NACHTWACHT WATERLOO Rembrandt’s masterpiece gets a The Rijksmuseum commem21st-century retelling as powerorates the bicentenary of the ful Dutch business women take battle of Waterloo with an exthe place of the painting’s male hibition that has the museum’s subjects. The piece forms part largest canvas as its centrepiece: of artist duo E2’s Ode to Dutch

Masters series.

Felix Meritis, 5 Sep-5 Oct MIRÓ AT THE RIJKSMUSEUM The calm oasis that is the Rijksmuseum’s luscious garden is filled with works by Spanish artist Miró (1893-1983). Access to the garden is free.

Rijksmuseum, until 11 Oct PRIDE PHOTO AWARD Pride Photo Award is an annual international contest for photos about sexual (LGBT) and gender diversity. Italian photographer Marika Puicher was the winner of the Pride Photo Award 2015 with a photo from her series 'Ella (she)'.

Oude Kerk, 12 Sep-25 Oct

GERLACH EN KOOP – CHOSES TUÉES The duo ‘render things visible by repetition, copying or reuse, by displacement and misplacement, by omissions, erring and making mistakes’.

De Appel arts centre, 12 Sep-8 Nov ALEXANDER, NAPOLEON & JOSÉPHINE Subtitled ‘A Story of Friendship, War and Art’, this exhibition focuses on Napoleon Bonaparte and two of his exceptional and very different contemporaries: Tsar Alexander I (his friend and enemy) and Joséphine, his wife.

Hermitage Amsterdam, until 8 Nov ZERO: LET US EXPLORE THE STARS This retrospective looks back on the inspiring work of the artists who in the 1950s and ’60s experimented with innovative materials and media; dedicating themselves to making a new future for art in the aftermath of war and the rebuilding of society.

Stedelijk Museum, until 8 Nov DICK BRUNA. ARTIST What connects Matisse with Miffy the rabbit? Find out this and more as the Rijksmuseum delves into the artistic influences that led Dick Bruna to create the iconic bunny.

Rijksmuseum, until 15 Nov ESKO MÄNNIKKÖ – TIME FLIES In this major retrospective, leading Finnish photographer Esko Männikkö explores the themes of time and transience.

Huis Marseille, 12 Sep-6 Dec HANNE VAN DER WOUDE – EMMY’S WORLD Dutch photographer Hanne van der Woude spent five years living alongside octogenarians Emmy, her husband Ben and Ben’s brother Egbert.

Huis Marseille, 12 Sep-6 Dec

A YEAR AT THE STEDELIJK: TINO SEHGAL BIBLE AND DILDO The first major survey of the Tokyo artist Momo Okabe German/British artist Tino presents award-winning photo- Sehgal sees the Stedelijk presgraphic projects documenting ent the live work of this radical transsexuality and modern Jap- artist non-stop for 365 days in anese society. a row.

Foam, until 25 Oct Stedelijk Museum, until 31 Dec

NEXT LEVEL: ANNE DE ADDITION: PIETER AND VRIES MARIEKE SANDERS The first major solo exhibition In 2013, art collectors Pieter of Dutch visual artist Anne de and Marieke Sanders gifted the Vries. His work is influenced by Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam stock photography, corporate more than 100 artworks by conbranding and new technologies, temporary artists. and ranges from digital photogStedelijk Museum, 18 Sep-3 raphy and 3D photo sculptures Jan 2016 to new media installations.

VAN DE POLL Foam, until 1 Nov Come face to face with generBLACK AND WHITE: THE ations of one of Amsterdam’s DRESSCODE OF A LIFETIME most famous noble families in It’s the most classic colour this engrossing portrait colpairing in fashion, but how did lection. these two opposite tones come Museum van Loon, 8 Oct-10 to be such a chic combination?

Jan 2016

57

sep & oct 2015

MICHELANGELO ANTONIONI – IL MAESTRO DEL CINEMA MODERNO Explore the perfectly framed world of director Michelangelo Antonioni in this exhibition.

The exhibition is accompanied by screenings of Antonioni’s films and special programmes.

EYE Film Museum, 12 Sep-17 Jan 2016 ASIA IN AMSTERDAM In the early Golden Age, Dutch ships sailed the globe, bringing back designs and materials that had never been seen before in Europe. This exhibition presents the beautiful artefacts and the history behind them, including porcelain, lacquerware, ebony, ivory and silk.

Rijksmuseum, 16 Oct-17 Jan 2016 WHEN I GIVE, I GIVE MYSELF Inspired not by Vincent Van Gogh’s paintbrush, but by his pen, this exhibition takes the artists’ famous letters as its starting point by asking 20 contemporary Dutch and international artists to create an artwork in direct response to one of the painter’s handwritten missives.

Van Gogh Museum, until 17 Jan 2016 ROME. THE DREAM OF EMPEROR CONSTANTINE This impressive collection shows how Christianity grew in imperial Rome, from being a minor religious community to become a major world religion.

Nieuwe Kerk, 3 Oct-7 Feb 2016 PORTRAIT GALLERY OF THE GOLDEN AGE This exhibition features an impressive selection of more than 30 huge 17th- and 18th-century group portraits, many of which haven’t been on public display for decades.

Hermitage Amsterdam, until 31 Dec 2016

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family during WWII. BODY WORLDS Captivating visitors the world over, the oft-controversial exhibition of human specimens including wholebody plastinates, organs and translucent body slices.

EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema.

GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side man-

sion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Highlights include ornamental gardens and sumptuous themed salons.

HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering marvel was built on swamp-

plants. It is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world.

HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Located in the Hendrika Maria, a former freighter moored on the Prinsengracht, the Houseboat Museum gives a fun insight into life on Amsterdam’s canals – a uniquely Dutch way of life.

Choice exhibits

mitted to practice their faith in public.

REMBRANDTHUIS The house that Rembrandt called home for nearly 20 years boasts an impressive collection of drawings, paintings and etchings by the Old Master himself as well as by his contemporaries.

RIJKSMUSEUM Visit the state museum and embark on a journey through Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages and Renaissance right up until the 20th century A not-to-be-missed experience.

HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) The National Maritime Museum comprises a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship.

DRUM COVER GIRL ERLIN IBRECK©JAMES BARNOR, 1966

SIXTIES - A WORLDWIDE HAPPENING Take a trip back in time at this celebration of 1960s culture.

Exploring themes that characterised a decade, the exhibition includes legendary objects and world-famous work by fashion designers, photographers and architects. As the colonial era came to an end and the power of global media grew, in the 1960s more and more people around the world joined in the fashion and design culture of the age.

Tropenmuseum, 16 Oct 2015-13 Mar 2016

ERNESTO CHE GUEVARA HAVANA CUBA 1963 ©RENE BURRI MAGNUM PHOTOS

MAGNUM. CONTACT SHEETS Offering fascinating insights into the working methods of some of the world’s most famous photo-journalists, this exhibition explores the decisive moments and the editorial process behind iconic images, and provides a chronological overview of important historical moments from the last eight decades, with subjects including Che Guevara, Margaret Thatcher, Malcolm X and Martin Luther King.

Foam, 11 Sep-9 Dec

land during the 17th century.

HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic

EDVARD MUNCH, THE SCREAM, 18931910, MUNCH MUSEUM

MUNCH : VAN GOGH The two highly influential artists Edvard Munch (1863-1944) and Vincent van Gogh (1853-1890) are renowned for their emotionally-charged paintings and drawings, their personal and innovative style and their lives full of hardship. Despite the many striking parallels in their work and artistic ambitions, they have never before been brought together in one exhibition, ensuring that this temporary presentation at the Van Gogh Museum is a real blockbuster exhibition.

Van Gogh Museum, 25 Sep17 Jan 2016

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canal house attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not per-

KONINKLIJK PALEIS ROYAL PALACE The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public.

STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is now on display in the beautifully restored historical building. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the best pieces from the design collection.

TROPENMUSEUM The ’Museum of the Tropics’ has eight geographically themed permanent exhibitions and an ongoing series of temporary presentations, including both modern and traditional visual arts and photographic work.

WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN MUSEUM The only completely period furnished canal-side house in Amsterdam has a remarkable collection of Golden Age art and silverware.

ADDRESSES Allard Pierson Museum Oude Turfmarkt 127 www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 www.stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl Amsterdam Expo Gustav Mahlerlaan 24 www.amsterdamexpo.nl Amsterdam Museum Kalverstraat 92 www.amsterdammuseum.nl Anne Frank House Prinsengracht 263-267 www.annefrank.org de Appel arts centre Prins Hendrikkade 142 www.deappel.nl Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 www.tassenmuseum.nl Biblical Museum

Herengracht 366-368 www.bijbelsmuseum.nl Body Worlds Damrak 66 www.bodyworlds.nl De Brakke Grond Nes 45 www.brakkegrond.nl Cobra Museum Sandbergplein 1 Amstelveen www.cobra-museum.nl Dutch Press Museum Zeeburgerkade 10 www.persmuseum.nl Dutch Resistance Museum Plantage Kerklaan 61 www.verzetsmuseum.org EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl Foam Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org Geelvinck Hinlopen House Keizersgracht 633 www.geelvinck.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 www.vangoghmuseum.nl Het Grachtenhuis (Museum of the Canals) Herengracht 386 www.hetgrachtenhuis.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl Hollandse Schouwburg Plantage Middenlaan 24 www.hollandscheschouwburg. nl Hortus Botanicus Plantage Middenlaan 2A www.dehortus.nl Houseboat Museum Prinsengracht 296K www.houseboatmuseum.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl Imagine IC Frankemaheerd 2 www.imagineic.nl Jewish Historical Museum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 www.jhm.nl Museum Van Loon Keizersgracht 672 www.museumvanloon.nl Mediamatic Fabriek VOC-kade 10 www.mediamatic.net De Nieuwe Kerk Dam Square www.nieuwekerk.nl Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic) Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 www.opsolder.nl Rembrandthuis Jodenbreestraat 4 www.rembrandthuis.nl Rijksmuseum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 www.rijksmuseum.nl Royal Palace Amsterdam Dam square www.paleisamsterdam.nl Het Scheepvaartmuseum (National Maritime Museum) Kattenburgerplein 1 www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 www.tropenmuseum.nl Willet-Holthuysen Museum Herengracht 605 www.willetholthuysen.nl

58

A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

GALLERIES

SPORTS

POWERED BY AMSTERDAM ART WWW.AMSTERDAMART.COM

1. IN SEARCH OF…

Grimm is proud to announce a duo exhibition of historical works by Ger van Elk and Bas Jan Ader. Both artists made a significant and highly personal contribution to the development of Conceptual Art. The exhibition focuses on a number of iconic works made in the early 1970s in LA and Amsterdam.



UNTIL 3 OCTOBER Grimm Frans Halsstraat 26

2. FOUNDATIONS AND FLOWERS



Jaap Kroneman’s elegant curls, stylised scribblings, strings, circles and crosses look like elements of DNA structures. Kroneman’s works lead us to a graphic structuring of straight, curved and meandering lines that resemble most the basic principles applied to icons.

4 SEPTEMBER – 14 OCTOBER Galerie van Gelder Planciusstraat 9A

3. NEW WORKS



Melanie Bonajo examines how progress removes the sense of belonging, and looks at how technological advances and commodity-based pleasures increase feelings of alienation within the individual. Captivated by concepts of the divine, she explores the spiritual emptiness of her generation.

12 SEPTEMBER-17 OCTOBER

Akinci Lijnbaansgracht 317

4. WALLS OF ART

Carolein Smit’s white ceramic reliefs retain a morbid touch classical in form. Using only two colours: white and greyblue, as well as traditional ornaments, she creates a delicate and peaceful atmosphere of elegant and harmonious grandeur.



5 SEPTEMBER–3 OCTOBER Flatland Gallery Lijnbaansgracht 312 – 314

5. C&H ART SPACE

Annegien van Doorn is constantly looking for a second connotation and function in daily objects, giving them an attractive and unusual appearance. Rhythm and sequences often play an important part in her compositions. In other works the objects are given anthropomorphic traits.

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5 SEPTEMBER–10 OCTOBER C&H Art Space 2de Kostverlorenkade 50

EVENTS FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE Get your skates on for the weekly Friday Night Skate, an institution in Amsterdam. Departing from Vondelpark, the skating routes take in all areas of the city, allowing you to skate in places where you wouldn’t on your own.

Vondelpark Pavilion, www.fridaynightskate.com, every Friday, 20:30, free AMSTERDAM CITY SWIM The canal cruise boats and pedaloes make way for more than 2,500 brave swimmers (and 500 kids) as the Amsterdam City Swim comes to town. Head out and support the swimmers as they swim the 2,000-metre course to raise money for charity. You can also find music and entertainment around the Jonas Daniël Meijerplein.

City centre waterways, www. amsterdamcityswim.nl/en, Sun 6 Sep, 13:00, free to spectate FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Organised by the Phanos athletics association every second Friday of the month, this free group running event is open to both recreational and more serious sportsters. Beginners can join in the 40-minute run at a slower tempo and there’s also the standard one-hour run.

Olympic Stadium, www.fridaynightrun.nl, Fri 11 Sep, 9 Oct, 19:30, free DAM TOT DAMLOOP The Dam tot Dam Weekend sprints into town every September, bringing with it not only thousands of sporting enthusiasts but also numerous live performances to urge on the participants and keep the crowds entertained. An addition for 2015 is the night race on the Saturday evening, with the main events taking place on the Sunday.

Starts from Prins Hendrikkade, www.damloop.nl, Sat 19 & Sun 20 Sep, free to spectate FRIDAY NIGHT RUN NIEUWWEST The District of Nieuw-West gets in on the evening running action with their very own Friday Night Run organised by the AAC athletics association every last Friday of the month. The route varies each week and there are two groups to join: one departing for a 30-minute run and another that takes on the more challenging one-hour variant.

Sportpark Ookmeer, Willinklaan 7, www.aacamsterdam.nl, Fri 25 Sep, 30 Oct, 19:30, free SLOTERPLASLOOP Part of the ‘Rondje Mokum’ series of running events, this 10km race is centred around the Sloterplas in the Nieuw-West district of the city.

AAC, Willinklaan 7, www.sloterplasloop.nl, Sun 11 Oct, 11:00, various prices BEN BRIL MEMORIAL BOXING GALA The old tradition of a boxing gala in a former circus ring is reinstated at this annual sporting event, named after one of the Nether

Highlight sports

HOMELESS WORLD CUP This annual tournament stops at different cities around the world and has grown into a fantastic success over the past decade. The initiative launched with the idea to change the lives of homeless people all over the world, and they believe football can help them do it. This year’s contests will be played out on Museumplein, in the heart of Amsterdam – 48 countries will be represented in the men’s tournament, 16 in the women’s. The matches are 4-a-side, played in two halves of seven minutes. As a result, the action is pretty much relentless and the goals fly in. So get along and support these sporting talents from around the globe.

Museumplein, www.homelessworldcup.org, Sat 12-19 Sep lands’ most famous pre-WWII boxers. The main fight stars tonight include Rafik Harutjunjan and Gevorg Khatchikian.

Royal Theatre Carré, www.carre. nl, Mon 12 Oct, 19:00, €30-€75 AMSTERDAM CITY WALK Take in Amsterdam’s famous sights during a 12, 17 or 26km walking route around the city!

Olympic Stadium, www.amsterdamcitywalk.nl, Sat 17 Oct, various times, €10-€14

heaven to you, then head to Koan Float in the city centre. Here you can leave the real world behind as you experience the tranquillity of a floatation tank or a wide variety of massage sessions.

Herengracht 321, www.koan float. nl., various times & prices

THE ORIGINAL DR FISH The feeling of fish nibbling at your hands and feet may feel a little strange at first, but you’ll soon discover just how relaxing it is. It’s the ultimate treatment for clean, TCS AMSTERDAM MARAsoft hands.

THON Van Baerlestraat 45, www.the When it comes to running events, original-drfish.nl, you could say Amsterdam has a various times & prices personal best: the TCS AmsterSAUNA DECO dam Marathon. The event draws AMSTERDAM elite runners and amateurs from around the world, who’ll all take Enjoy the lounge rooms, pleasant on a revised city route this year. atmosphere and all the facilities The start and finish at the Olymyou require for a day of luxury. pic Stadium, the passage through And as you can guess from its the Rijksmuseum, and the name, the sauna is styled in stretches along the Amstel and historic and beautiful art deco through the Vondelpark will still pieces, transporting its guests to a be the main highlights, of course. bygone era.

Starts at Olympic Stadium, www.

Herengracht 115, www.sauna tcsamsterdammarathon.nl, Sun deco.nl, various times & prices 18 Oct, from 09:30, various prices SENTO SPA AND (free to spectate) HEALTH CLUB At Sento you can find complete professional supervision and WELLNESS personal training for every requirement. Enjoy the spa and THE CITY STREET SPA beauty facilities or go for a swim in the pool.

British expat Chantal Naughton’s Marnixplein 1, www.sento.nl, powder blue boutique spa is a various times & prices favourite with the city’s Canal Belt clique and discerning expats, but SPA ZUIVER the aestheticians at this urban With facilities including saunas, retreat make everyone feel welbaths, hammam treatments, recome. The OPI Pedicure soothes laxation chambers, sports, swimtired shopping feet and the ming pool and dining and hotel ’non-surgical facelift’ performs options, it’s perfect for anyone miracles. looking to relax and recharge.

Prinsengracht 764, Please note: clothing is not www.thecitystreetspa.com obligatory.

KOAN FLOAT Koenenkade 8, www.spazuiver.nl, various times & prices If gently submerging yourself in warm salt water sounds like

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sep & oct 2015

KIDS & FAMILY advertorial

VENUES AMSTERDAM DUNGEON The Amsterdam Dungeon brings 500 years of dark history to life with 11 shows, seven actors and one terrifying experience!

Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons. nl. Open daily 11:00-17:00 (last tour); €22, ages 4-15 €18

Highlight OBA

HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) This nautical museum has a variety of exhibitions designed just for kids, including the recently opened ’Life on board’.

Kattenburgerplein 1, www. scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open daily 09:00-17:00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50, under-5s free

AMSTERDAMSE BOS This huge park and forest is one of Amsterdam’s super secrets despite being three times the size of New York’s Central Park.

Amsterdamse Bos (Visitor Centre), Bosbaanweg 5, Amstelveen, www.amsterdamsebos.nl, various times & prices ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Quotations from the diary, photographs, films and original objects – including Anne’s diary – all serve to illustrate the events which occurred here.

Suitable for children over ten.

Prinsengracht 263-267, www. annefrank.org. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 09:0021:00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50 ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes resting amongst the zebras and wildebeests. Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion or stroll through the historical park with its centuries-old trees and a multitude of plants.

Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www.artis.nl. Open daily 09.00-18.00; €19.95, ages 3-9 €16.50 BLIJBURG BEACH Feel the sand between your toes without leaving the comfort of the city at this trendy, family-friendly urban beach on IJburg. Their restaurant serves up organic, fresh food on long wooden tables, there are live bands Sunday afternoons and DJs spin into the late hours on the weekends.

Pampuslaan 501, www.blijburg.nl, opening times vary BOVEN NEMO During the summer months, NEMO museum’s roof transforms into an urban beach, decked out with sand pits, lounge chairs, a giant chess set and a ’Splashing Water Wonder’ attraction.

Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl/ en, Jun-Sep, open daily 10:0019:00, free entrance COBRA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART In addition to presenting interesting exhibitions of modern and contemporary art, the museum also offers a free Children’s Studio – where they’re encouraged to colour outside the lines!

Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen, www.cobra-museum.nl. TueSun 11:00-17:00;

PANCAKE BOAT A cosy boat, all-you-can-eat pancakes and a view of Amsterdam’s canals make the Pancake Boat a great activity for all ages.

Ms van Riemsdijkweg opposite nr 38, www.pannenkoekenboot. nl, various times & prices

SCIENCE CENTER NEMO NEMO introduces young and old to the world of science and technology.

Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl.

Open daily 10:00-17:30; €15, under-4s free HUMANS OF AMSTERDAM Three years ago, photographer Debra Barraud (b. 1988), inspired by the well-known blog Humans of New York, started her own version called Humans of Amsterdam. Every day Debra roams the streets of Amsterdam, asking passers-by if she can take their picture. She also tries to capture something essential about them in writing, by asking them questions, sometimes quite personal. Her blog Humans of Amsterdam boasts more than 350,000 followers worldwide. Debra's fascinating photos will be on display from 10 September until 30 November at OBA Expo, in the Central OBA on Oosterdokskade 143. The exhibition is free.

STUDYING AND WORKING IN OBA Are you looking for the ideal spot to work or study, or just to step off the busy streets for a while? Sure, cafés are an option, but for the right atmosphere and focused mindset, the OBA is the right choice. With 26 branches across town, there’s always an OBA near you. And there’s no admission fee!

For more information about the OBA, see www.oba.nl/english adults €9.50, ages 6-18 €6; Children’s Studio, Sun 11:0014:00, free HORTUS BOTANICUS A refuge from the bustle of the city, highlights include a palm and a butterfly greenhouse, four beehives, temporary exhibitions and a café.

Plantage Middenlaan 2A, www.dehortus.nl. Open MonSat, 10:00-17:00; €8.50, ages 5-14 €4.50 HET TWISKE This nature reserve and recreational area is situated in thenorth of Amsterdam between Zaanstad and Purmerend. In addition to large playgrounds, a beach and plenty of green space, you can rent canoes, rowboats, pedal boats and sailboats. Amsterdam’s bike paths connect here directly. www.hettwiske.nl KINDERKOOKKAFÉ The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a delightful and unique restaurant located by the Vondelpark.

Here children (ages five to 12) do absolutely everything to help run the restaurant, including cooking, serving, bartending, tidying up and running the cash register.

Vondelpark 6b, www.kinderkookkafe.nl. Open daily 10:0017:00; various prices

DE KLIMMUUR Rock climbing in the centre of Amsterdam.

Dijksgracht 2, www.deklimmuur.nl, various times & prices LOVERS POWERZONE Strike it big at one of the six glow-in-the-dark bowling alleys or pit yourself against the enemy on the laser tag battleground.

De Ruyterkade 153, www.loverspowerzone.nl, various times & prices MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM The collection of wax figures include the gorgeous Brad Pitt, the outrageous Lady Gaga and the brilliant Einstein.

Dam 20, www.madametussauds.nl. Open daily 10:0018:30; €22, ages 5-15 €18, under-5s free MIRANDABAD SWIMMING POOL Subtropical swimming pool complex with a beach, palm trees, several indoor and outdoor pools, and wave machines.

Other amenities include squash courts, a solarium and a restaurant.

De Mirandalaan 9, www.mirandabad.nl, various times & prices

STEDELIJK MUSEUM The Stedelijk Museum offers a renovated Family Lab in which young and old are encouraged to build bold artworks on the walls in red, yellow and blue.

Museumplein 10, www.stedelijk. nl. Open Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun 10:00-18:00, Thur 10:0022:00; €15, children free TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR Tropenmuseum is renowned for its efforts in child-friendly exhibitions. In the Junior building, interactive exhibits introduce children to new cultures in a playful way.

Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tropenmuseum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Mondays during public and school holidays 10:00-17:00; €12.50, ages 4-18 €8, under-4s free TUNFUN TunFun is an indoor paradise for children under 12. Under adult supervision, kids can enjoy hours of fun in a huge 4,000m2 indoor playground.

There’s something for every age and interest: soft slides & mini-ball pool for babies and infants, trampolines and jungle gyms for the older kids, and crafting and painting.

Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun. nl. Open daily 10:00-18:00; ages 1-12 €8.50, accompanying adults free VERZETSMUSEUM JUNIOR A Junior building shows young visitors (9-14 years) how four peers lived during wartime.

Verzetsmuseum, Plantage Kerklaan 61, www.verzetsmuseum. org. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00; Sat-Mon 11:00-17:00; €8, ages 7-15 €4.50, under-7s free WIND ’N WHEELS This large-scale urban ’land yachting’ park is set up on Zeeburgereiland, in the east part of the city. Also known as land-sailing or blokarting, all it takes is a sail, three wheels, some wind and loads of adrenaline!

Wind ’n Wheels, Zuiderzeeweg 1, www.windnwheels.nl, Opening hours &prices vary

WOESTE WESTEN PLAYGROUND At this playground, kids can explore, dig, climb, play in the sand, and check out the frogs and bugs that call the park home.

Westerpark, www.woestewesten. nl, playground supervisor is present Wed-Sun 11:00-18:00, Mon & Tue 12:00-18:00

EVENTS LIFE ON BOARD Visitors of all ages will enjoy this new interactive exhibition that takes the form of a lifesized board game.

National Maritime Museum, www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl, open daily 09:00-17:00 NOORDERPARKFESTIVAL The programme is a blend of old-fashioned funfair, a street theatre event and a music festival. The Tolhuistuin, EYE Filmmuseum and the Noordparkbad swimming pool are among the participants and there’ll be a food market with all kinds of 'Northern' delicacies and fun for the entire family!

Noorderpark, www.noord. amsterdam.nl, Sun 6 Sep, 12:00, free SUNDAY MARKET A great day out for the whole family! Artists, designers and craftspeople flog their wares and delicious food & drink is on offer to fuel your shopping frenzy. There is always some form of entertainment or crafty workshop on and plenty of kids clothing and toy stalls to browse through.

Westergasfabriek, www.sundaymarket.nl, Sun 6 Sep & 4 Oct, 12:00, free THE AMAZING JOURNEY OF DR FAUST Amsterdam’s Marionette Theatre presents a musical puppet rendition of the age-old tale of the scholar who ‘knew too much and yet never enough’.

The tale of Doctor Faust, the scholar who makes a pact with the devil in his quest for ultimate knowledge, is far older than Goethe's or even Marlowe's famous versions.

Suitable for children aged ten and over.

Amsterdam Marionette Theatre, www.marionettentheater. nl, Sat 12, Sun 13 & 27 Sep; Sun 4, 18 & 25 Oct FUNFAIR Whether you’re one for being flung around high above the city, racing around in the dodgems, being spooked in the haunted house or simply sightseeing from the top of a Ferris wheel, the fairground is guaranteed good fun at any age.

Mercatorplein (22-27 Sep); Buikslotermeerplein (9-18 Oct); Dam Square (15-25 Oct); Stadspark Osdorp (23 Oct-1 Nov)

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

FILM FAVOURITES THE WOLFPACK

Since they were born, father and mother Angulo kept their six sons (and one sister) safely locked inside their Lower East Side New York apartment.

Their only connection to the outside world are the movies they watch and reenact.

Directed by: Crystal Moselle Release: 10 September

STAN LAUREL 125

This June the Laurel of Laurel and Hardy would have been 125 years old. The Laurel and Hardy fan club is celebrating this occasion with a special quadruple bill, chosen by four Dutch celebrities (among whom Carice ‘Melissandre’ van Houten): Liberty (1929), Blotto (1930), County Hospital (1932) and Way Out West (1937).

19 September, Tuschinski www.stanlaurel125.eu

45 YEARS

A week before Geoff and Kate’s (a terrific Charlotte Rampling) 45th wedding anniversary, the body of Geoff’s first love is found in the icy glaciers of the Swiss Alps, fifty years after she disappeared.

But her heart isn’t the only one with frostbite. A heartwrenching yet insightful look into marriage, by the director of Weekend and Looking.

Directed by: Andrew Haigh Release: 24 September

THE LOBSTER

In a near future, single people get 45 days to find a mate, or be turned into an animal (of their choice). Knowing the title, you don’t have to guess what David’s (Colin Farrell) is going to be. Equal parts funny and sinister, Greek director Yorgos Lanthimos (Dogtooth) has delivered yet another intriguing and absurdist parable that’s hard to forget.

Directed by: Yorgos Lanthimos.

Release: 22 October

BUDDHIST FILM FESTIVAL EUROPE

The tenth edition of the Buddhist Film Festival is all about compassion, with feature films, documentaries and lectures. Don’t miss the documentary On the Road by director Lee Chang-jae, who got the rare opportunity to film at a South Korean convent.

2-4 October, EYE www.bffe.org

THE MARTIAN

Director Ridley Scott (Alien, Blade Runner, Prometheus) knows his way through outer space. Yet this movie – based on the scientifically sound novel by Andy Weir – about an astronaut (Matt Damon) accidentally left behind on Mars may just prove to be Ridley’s most down-to-earth sci-fi feature yet.

Directed by: Ridley Scott Release: 1 October

SICARIO

An idealistic FBI-agent (Emily Blunt) joins an elite government task force to hunt down a Mexican drug cartel. Separating her friends from her enemies will be the tricky part.

Sicario (Hitman) is another suspenseful thriller by the director of Incendies and Prisoners.

Josh Brolin and Benicio del Toro co-star.

Directed by: Denis Villeneuve.

Release: 8 October

KLIK! AMSTERDAM ANIMATION FESTIVAL

From October 27, KLIK! Amsterdam Animation Festival takes over EYE for six days (and nights) of animation madness.

27 October-1 November, EYE www.klik.amsterdam

YOUTH

Paolo Sorrentino’s (Le conseguenze dell’amore, La grande bellezza) first English language film is also his most sensitive.

Two old friends (Michael Caine, Harvey Keitel) reminisce and look ahead during their stay at an elegant hotel at the foot of the Alps. With Rachel Weisz, Paul Dano and Jane Fonda.

Directed by: Paolo Sorrentino Release: 29 October

ANTONIONI EXHIBITION

Michelangelo Antonioni (19122007) changed the way we look at feature film. Not necessarily as a narrative, but as a collection of images, of moods and of feelings. A collection of impressions is exactly what we get here, from personal letters (from Umberto Eco to Alain Delon) and paintings to the documentary Antonioni made for the Chinese Communist Party.

From 12 September, EYE www.eyefilm.nl

GAY & LESBIAN REGULAR EVENTS NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits.

Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21:00, various prices ZONDERBROEK Every Friday and Sunday night and every first Saturday of the month, drop all your pretences and dance without pants at Club Church in Amsterdam.

The dress code is strictly enforced: briefs and jocks are welcome; swimming trunks, boxers, sports shorts or going commando are also permitted.

Board shorts, Bermudas or other streetwear prohibited.

Every Fri & Sun, Church, various times, €10

ONE-OFF EVENTS GAY MOVIE NIGHT Nurse your hangover in the dark, while enjoying a screening of the gems of gay cinema.

Wed 2 Sep & 7 Oct, Pathé de Munt, 21:00, €10 KISS BANG CRUISE Welcome aboard The Kiss Bang Cruise, a floating festival on the open water!

Sun 6 Sep www.kissbangaffair.com NETHERBEARS AT THE QUEEN’S HEAD Bi-weekly get-together by Netherbears, the slightly less stocky bear men (according to their website).

Sun 13 & 27 Sep, 11 & 25 Oct, The Queen’s Head, www.netherbears.nl, 19:00 SING-ALONG NIGHT Does exactly what it says on the tin, at one of the city’s most welcoming lesbian bars (with pool tables!).

Sun 13 Sep & 11 Oct, Saarein, 18:00 GARBO FOR WOMEN Single ladies strut their stuff at this regular ladies-only meet-up. Celebrating its tenth anniversary in 2015.

Sat 19 Sep & 17 Oct, Strand West, 18:00, €8 FUNHOUSE Rapido Events present FunHouse. Popular gay dance parties at Wester Unie, at Westergasfabriek Amsterdam.

The party is in a old industrial factory hall.

Sat 19 Sep, Wester Unie, 22:00 HORSEMEN & KNIGHTS Big willy gay sex party. Dress code: naked or underwear.

Drop ’em and if you measure up, entrance is free.

Sun 20 Sep & 18 Oct, The Warehouse, 15:00, €8

LADZ The gay dance party for lads, scallies, gabbers, sneaker- and sportswear boys. Ladz offers a great dance floor, a relaxed lounge and sexy staff.

Sat 26 Sep, Church, 22:00, www.ladz.nl, €10 AMSTERDAM LEATHER PRIDE Amsterdam Leather Pride is back with new organisers and a large main party back in the centre of Amsterdam. Leather and fetish men from all over Europe come to Amsterdam for various parties and events.

Thur 22-Mon 26 Oct, Various events and locations www.leatherpride.nl DAMAGE Amsterdam’s new huge fetish party Damage returns for Amsterdam Leather pride. .

International DJ’s, porn stars, shows and a big play area.

Sat 24 Oct, De Marktkantine, www.netherbears.nl, 23:00 ADDRESSES Amstel Fifty Four Amstel 54 www.amstelfiftyfour.nl Church Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl Eden Amsterdam Manor Hotel Linnaeusstraat 89 www.lgbtqoosterpark.blogspot.com Engel van Amsterdam Zeedijk 21 www.engelamsterdam.nl Hotel Arena 's-Gravesandestraat 5 www.hotelarena.nl Lellebel Utrechtsestraat 4 www.lellebel.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein 1 www.hetmarnix.nl Club NYX Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 www.clubnyx.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 www.pathe.nl Prik Spuistraat 109 www.prikamsterdam.nl The Queen’s Head Zeedijk 20 www.queenshead.nl Saarein Elandsstraat 119-HS www.saarein2.nl Sameplace Nassaukade 120 www.sameplace.nl Sauna Nieuwezijds Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 95 www.saunanieuwezijds.nl Strand West Stavangerweg 900 www.garboforwomen.nl Taboo Reguliersdwarsstraat 45 www.taboobar.nl Theater Amsterdam Danzigerkade 5 www.theateramsterdam.nl The Warehouse Warmoesstraat 96 www.warehouseamsterdam. com

VISITOR INFORMATION

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sep & oct 2015

VISITOR INFORMATION

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city.

LAST MINUTE TICKET SHOPS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of performance.

Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop screens and buy tickets at the following locations for sameday performances: I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE CENTRAL STATION Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open daily

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES

STADSSCHOUWBURG AMSTERDAM Leidseplein 26 Open Mon-Sat 12.00-18.00

FOR INFORMATION AND TO BOOK EXCURSIONS, VISIT ONE OF THE VISITOR CENTRES IN AMSTERDAM: Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 Open Mon-Fri 09.00-17.00 info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com http://twitter.com/Iamsterdam

AMSTERDAM PUBLIC LIBRARY (OBA) Oosterdokskade 143 Open Mon-Fri 10.00-19.30; Sat & Sun 10.00-18.00 www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE CENTRAL STATION* Stationsplein 10 (across from Central Station) Open daily (check opening times on: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres) *Last Minute Ticket Shop I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Schiphol Airport, Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 07.00-22.00

SPECIAL OFFER FOR I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD HOLDERS! Purchase the Amsterdam & Region Day Ticket for a special price of €10. Combine the 24-hour public bus pass with the I amsterdam City Card and make good use of both products! This offer is availabe at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres at Stationsplein and Schiphol Airport.

Molen koe grachtpan dje fiets

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION DAY TICKET This ticket entitles you to unlimited travel in Amsterdam and the surrounding region – day and night – on bus, tram and metro for 24 hours. Within the region are great tourist attractions including historic Haarlem, the fortified towns and castles of the fortress stretch, historical country estates along the River Vecht and the peaceful Amstel River countryside – and of course, your journey to and from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. A ticket costs just €13.50 and can be purchased from the I amsterdam Visitor Centres or from GVB, EBS and Connexxion ticket points.

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beyond amsterdam

CLOSING

BEYOND

A’DAM

‘I DO NOT BELIEVE THAT EVERYTHING SHOULD BE UNDERSTANDABLE. VALUABLE IMAGES ARE NEVER CLEAR AT FIRST SIGHT. THAT TAKES TIME.’

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

ROMEO CASTELLUCCI

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

ART THE HAGUE

7-11 October Fokker Terminal, Den Haag www.artthehague.nl

GETTING THERE: Trains from Amsterdam Central to Den Haag run many times a day; from Den Haag Centraal, hop on bus 26 to stop Zonweg. Travel time: 75min.

NEDERLANDS FILM FESTIVAL, UTRECHT The spotlight is on Dutch cinema for ten days at the Nederlands Film Festival, with a comprehensive programme of screenings, debates, workshops, and of course, the Golden Calf Awards competition, which is a bit like the Oscars, but… in Dutch. From small arthouse short films to big-budget motion pictures, most notable national productions are represented, with their special brand of thought-provoking, amusing and creative talents. A real treat for Dutch-speaking cinema buffs.

23 September-2 October Utrecht www.filmfestival.nl

GETTING THERE: Trains from Amsterdam Central to Utrecht run many times a day. Travel time: 30 min.

© ELISA VAN SCHIE

A podium for international, up-and-coming and established contemporary artists, Art The Hague will showcase works from more than 40 galleries, handpicked for the variety and quality of their artists’ talents. In addition to the presented works, there will also be special exhibits, free tours, art routes and lectures throughout the city, as the fair also aims at being fun and interactive with its visitors, stimulating relationships between artists and entrepreneurs, and of course putting the city’s rich cultural scene at the forefront of the initiative.

GIMME SHELTER – FORTS AND FICTIONS IN THE LOWLANDS The different illusions of warfare are on the front line at this major international exhibit which uses three of the most monumental forts in the Netherlands as background.

Almost 50 artists explore the themes of fictitious military defence in a wide variety of artistic mediums, from drawings, sculptures and photographs to films and art installations – complemented by historical materials.

Until September 20 Fort Asperen, Fort Nieuwersluis and Fort bij Vijfhuizen www.gimme-shelter.nl

GETTING THERE: Fort Asperen: Train to Utrecht, then bus 85 to Leede in Leerdam, then bus 260 to the Brandweer stop in Asperen. Travel time: 2H. Fort Nieuwersluis: Metro 54 to station Holdendrecht, then bus 120 towards Utrecht to Nieuwersluis Village.

Travel time: 1H. Fort bij Vijfhuizen: From Schiphol Airport, bus 300 to Vijfhuizen. Then a short 800m walk. Travel: 50min.

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‘AGE IS JUST A NUMBER. IT’S TOTALLY IRRELEVANT UNLESS, OF COURSE, YOU HAPPEN TO BE A BOTTLE OF WINE.’

WINSTON CHURCHILL, WHO WOULD HAVE THOROUGHLY ENJOYED THE GIMME SHELTER EXHIBIT AT THE LOWLANDS FORTS.

THE ORGANISERS AT BACCHUS WINE FESTIVAL AGREE WITH JOAN COLLINS.

© LUCA DEL PIA

‘IN TIME OF WAR, WHEN TRUTH IS SO PRECIOUS, IT MUST BE ATTENDED BY A BODYGUARD OF LIES’

FESTIVAL DE KEUZE, ROTTERDAM

BACCHUS WINE FESTIVAL, AMSTERDAMSE BOS HAARLEM CULTUUR FESTIVAL Formerly known as ‘Haarlem City as a Stage’ (Stad Als Podium), the Haarlem Culture Festival marks the official opening of the new cultural season, using the city as a stage. The participating venues open their doors (including monuments), take to the streets, and invite everyone to get a taste of what Haarlem has to offer the art-friendly crowds, including children. From concerts and exhibits to lectures, performances and debates, the streets bustle with enlightening and entertaining activities – and, of course, food and shopping opportunities as well.

12-13 September Haarlem, various venues www.haarlemcultuurfestival.nl

GETTING THERE: Trains from Amsterdam Central to Haarlem run many times a day. Travel time: 15 min.

A clearing in the woods, meat sizzling on barbecues, a bunch of friends and a glass of wine (or 12 – who are we to judge?): it is the winning recipe of the Bacchus Wine Festival, a lighthearted fair that tastes like country. Plastic is banned and visitors enjoy the last of summer by walking among the trees or sitting on hay bales with their stem glass of red, rosé or white. Wine is the star of the show, with many tasting shops, tents and workshops, but there’s lots of great food and music on the menu as well.

4-6 September Amsterdamse Bos www.bacchuswijnfestival.nl

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central, take metro line 50 to Amstelveenseweg. Then it’s a 15-minute walk. Buses 170, 172, 174, 222 and 66 also go there (stop Van Nijenrodeweg).

Travel time: 20-30 min.

Festival de Keuze is not for the fan of classical dance and theatre; the presented shows are chosen to represent nonconformist artists from all over the world (many are in English, or surtitled). The festival is a testament to the quality of the contemporary stage, with inspiring screenplays, stirring actors, gorgeous costumes and stunning choreographies. In Go Down, Moses, Italian director Romeo Castellucci controversially revisits the story of Moses with symbolic tableaux. A must-see (in Italian with English surtitles).

23-27 September Rotterdamse Schouwburg, Rotterdam www.festivaldekeuze.nl

GETTING THERE: Trains from Amsterdam Central to Rotterdam run many times a day.

Then hop on trams 4, 25. Travel time: 15 min.

64

CLOSING

THEN AND NOW

then & now

THE EMMA CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL, CA. 1925 Tracing the city’s history, one image at a time.

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

65

NEXT ISSUE

OPERA GALA The National Opera celebrates 50 years of innovation.

National Opera Ballet 6 November www.operaballet.nl

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FROM ILL TO HEALED

INTERNATIONAL DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVAL The world's leading documentary festival is returning for its 27th edition.

ARCHVE EMMA KINDERZIEKENHUIS AMC, AMSTERDAM

For 150 years, since it opened as a dispensary for the poor, the Emma Children’s Hospital has been taking care of Amsterdam’s kids – and growing into today’s leading paediatric establishment with close to 600 employees who treat more than 9,000 children every year. The City Archives are honouring their hard work this autumn, with a wonderful interactive exhibit that follows the stories of ten children who were treated at the hospital. From Hendrika Johanna and Sophia who suffered the cholera epidemics of the late 19th century, to Hugo who was treated for his tuberculosis in the 1940s, and Peter who received life-saving open heart surgery in 1977, the show, accompanied by a treasure hunt, family programmes, guest speaker lectures and other special events, is an enlightening and heart-warming journey through the improvement of care and the development of medical techniques and technologies.

NOV & DEC 2015

18-29 November www.idfa.nl

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Until 15 November Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 www.stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

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AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL See the city all decked out in its brightest art installation finery.

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WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS

From 26 November www.amsterdamlightfestival.com

It‘s not Christmas in Amsterdam without Carré’s grandiose circus extravaganza.

SINTERKLAAS

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From 17 December Theater Carré www.carre.nl

Guess who‘s coming to town?

15 November www.sintinamsterdam.nl

66

CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

on the way out

MARIJE VEENHOVEN, 37, HOTEL MANAGER, PICKING UP HER FRIEND FROM BEIJING ‘I may be biased because I live there, but I love Haarlem. It’s a short train ride from Amsterdam, and it’s lovely, quiet, and great for historical buffs and shoppers alike. It really deserves a visit.’

RICCARDO PRIVITERA, 35, MUSICIAN FROM MAASTRICHT ‘The Van Gogh Museum is a mustsee. Why? Well, it’s Van Gogh – what other advertisement does it need?’

EUGENE ANG AND NICHOLAS CHEE, 23, EXCHANGE STUDENTS FROM SINGAPORE ‘The best part of Amsterdam is… A-Mag! It gives you all the information to have a great trip, and it’s full of insider tips so you don’t only do the touristy stuff.’

MOHAMMED NASSOU, 51, TECHNICIAN FROM FRANCE, AND FAMILY ‘It’s a bit far away, but the Haarlemmermeerse Bos, with its wide lake and gorgeous, untamed nature, is a really special place. I love the Dutch lifestyle, they have a real appreciation for nature.’

JESSICA MURRAY, 24, ON HER WAY TO TURKEY ‘Come on King’s Day! But make sure you get the right date. It’s not on 30 April any more (Queen’s Day), and so many people last year showed up late and were disappointed.’

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic copy editor Marie-Charlotte Pezé proofreader Cecily Layzell contributors Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Leda Georgiades, Catalina Iorga, Elisah Jacobs, Anna van Leeuwen, Jowi Schmitz, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Joke van der Wey, Monique Wijbrands/Saltystock, Christiaan de Wit listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart & Steven McCarron) cover illustration Anna van Dooren

CALLING ALL

SUPERHEROES! TCS Amsterdam Marathon Mizuno Half Marathon TCS 8 K

Sunday, October 18th tcsamsterdammarathon.nl

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