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The food, the festivals, the music, the art – whether you love Indonesian or Polish, Surinamese or Ghanaian, Amsterdam has it all.
MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY
Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a weekend, make the most of every hour with our itineraries.
WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM
The best terraces in Amsterdam to spend a sunny afternoon, French hotspots and the finest fine and casual dining places.
WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO
From blockbuster exhibitions to the best gigs, Queer & Pride highlights and festivals, there’s always something to see and do in Amsterdam.
EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS
There’s a new discovery around every corner, from the best hangouts in the different neighbourhoods to hidden gems in the city centre.
DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA
Explore beyond the city borders of Amsterdam and discover incredible nature, picturesque villages and unmissable experiences.
If you are one of those visitors with little time on their hands and a whole continent to see, Amsterdam could well be a good starting point. As small as this city may feel, it contains almost the entire world of di erent nationalities. A tour through the Amsterdam canals is not unlike the It’s a Small World ride in Disneyland. Whether it’s a British book shop, a Polish supermarket or an Ethiopian restaurant, you’ll find manifestations of almost every culture in the world packed within a few square km. In fact, the only culture that seems absent is the Dutch one. Except maybe in tourist-oriented places where they sell you ‘real Dutch’ clogs, tulips, Amsterdam cheese or stroopwafels. Just saying: we don’t wear clogs, tulips are originally from Turkey, cheese is not made in Amsterdam, and we sell massive amounts of stroopwafels only because you expect them (although admittedly, they are pretty good). There are Dutch restaurants, of course, but they’re hard to find, and even harder to find is an Amsterdammer who would recommend them. In most cafés and restaurants, you will be addressed in English, not necessarily because we want to accommodate you, but because the sta doesn’t speak Dutch. In our main article, we guide you through some of the most interesting – and tasty – expressions of other cultures in Amsterdam that you can experience first-hand this summer, from Amstelveen’s beautiful Japanese Cherry Blossom Park and the Indian Diwali light festival to the exuberant Surinamese Kwaku Summer Festival in Zuidoost. Experiencing Amsterdam is all about just that: embracing the di erence.
Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam City Guide
Amsterdam is one of the world’s most diverse cities. The food, the festivals, the music, the art – whether you love Indonesian or Polish, Surinamese or Ghanaian, Amsterdam has it all.
Ever since the 16th century, Amsterdam has been a mix of nationalities, which have shaped and enriched the city. As Russell Shorto, historian and author of the book Amsterdam: A History of the World’s Most Liberal City, puts it: ‘One thing that sets Amsterdam’s diversity apart is its antiquity… in becoming the melting pot of Europe in the 1500s and 1600s, the city set the template for modern urban life.’
In 2023, Amsterdam’s population is at around 883,000, and around half of the city’s residents have an immigrant background and 308,000 of them are first-generation immigrants. And with almost 180 nationalities among its residents, Amsterdam is a city that’s home to a huge range of international delights.
Whether by accident or design, certain neighbourhoods are home to concentrations of a particular community. Some are longstanding, such as the city’s Chinatown, which was established by the first Chinese settlers around 1911. Others are more recent, such as
De Bijlmer in the Zuidoost district, where Amsterdam’s Surinamese community established itself in the 1970s and 1980s. Some neighbourhood clusters, such as Little India and Japantown in Amstelveen, are driven by international companies that provide housing for their employees. And sometimes a neighbourhood becomes home to a community just through a snowball e ect, with existing shops and businesses attracting newcomers from that community.
Whatever the reason, it’s worth taking time to explore neighbourhoods beyond the city centre and discover the delights of Amsterdam’s cultural diversity. As Charles Landry, author and international adviser on urban change, says: ‘The many cultures in Amsterdam contribute to the city’s high level of craziness –something which every interesting city should o er.’ Throughout Amsterdam you can enjoy cultures from Australia to Zimbabwe, taking in Dutch icons along the way. To get you started, here’s a brief introduction to just a few of the city’s communities, including top tips by those who know where to go.
‘The many cultures in Amsterdam contribute to the city’s high level of craziness
– something which every interesting city should offer.’
The British have had a presence in Amsterdam for centuries, with merchants setting up shop in the city since the 16th century. And while Britain may have left the EU, there’s still a thriving community of Brits in Amsterdam. Katie Reid is one of them. She first came to Amsterdam 10 years ago to study music and settled in the east of the city four years ago.
‘Amsterdam is very welcoming to different communities,’ she says, and that’s one of the reasons she’s still here.
If you fancy a bit of shopping with an English flavour, Kelly’s Expat Shopping in the lively De Pijp neighbourhood has a huge selection of British (and American) groceries.
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Amsterdam’s Indonesian community numbers around 23,000, with a wave of migrants arriving after Indonesia gained independence in 1949. Evidence of the long-lasting ties between Indonesia and Amsterdam is to be found throughout the city. Hasti Tarekat Dipowijoyo, a cultural heritage consultant specialising in Dutch-Indonesian projects, first visited Amsterdam in 1990. She immediately felt at home and moved to the city for good in 2005. ‘The Indonesian community is modest and has a spiritual approach to life. Smiling and laughter are key to how Indonesians communicate.’
You can explore Dutch-Indo history more deeply at the Tropenmuseum. As well as a large collection of Indonesian photos and artefacts, the exhibition Our Colonial Inheritance offers a multi-voiced perspective on the Dutch colonial presence in Indonesia and other countries
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A spot to enjoy the comforts of traditional British cooking is The Cottage, says Katie. This cute café serves breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as snacks and homebaked goodies for morning and afternoon tea.
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Theatre lovers are spoiled for choice in Amsterdam with plenty of options for English-language and surtitled performances. Check iamsterdam.com/lnp. Holland Festival (1 June-1 July) and Amsterdam Fringe Festival (7-17 September) also host a diverse range of English-language or ‘laguage-noproblem’ performances.
Amsterdam is home to numerous Indonesian restaurants and takeaway options. Hasti recommends Indonesian Wok (Surinamestraat 9), Aries Noodles (Koningin Wilhelminaplein 58) and Sie Joe (Gravenstraat 24A) – the latter is just off Dam Square in the heart of the city.
Exhibition Maps Unfolded - From Atlas to Street Map in the Allard Pierson museum shows the enormous diversity of maps from the 15th century onwards.
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s pop-up
The British sense of humour and ability to poke fun at themselves is something Katie is keen to share at her Sunday Roast Club (@desundayroastclub). Together with two Dutch Anglophiles, Katie hosts these pop-up events at cinema-slash-bar-hangout LAB111. The Sunday Roast Club offers board games, Bloody Marys and a traditional British slap-up Sunday lunch, complete with chicken, roast vegetables, lashings of gravy and beers on the side. It is a casual affair and non-Brits are of course welcome to join in the fun.
ARIE BIEMONDSTRAAT 111, INFO@LAB111.NLTo see signs of Dutch-Indo history in Amsterdam, just look up, says Hasti. Many canal houses have decorations that refer to Indonesia. Visit Museum Het Schip for their Indonesia and the Amsterdam School exhibition, which explores the relationship between Indonesian folk architecture and crafts and the expressive style of the Amsterdam School movement.
UNTIL 27 AUGUST, HETSCHIP.NL
Around 62,000 Amsterdammers have a Surinamese background and the community boasts a vibrant cultural scene with two major annual events: Keti Koti on 1 July – the national commemoration of the end of slavery – and the Kwaku Festival. Amsterdam sisters One’sy, radio DJ, and Tewa Muller, student counsellor, share their ‘fusion’ approach to Surinamese cuisine on their blog thisgirlcancook.nl. Family and hospitality are very important, says Tewa. ‘We always put an extra plate on the table. Everyone is always welcome.’
The Kwaku SummerFestival is an exuberant celebration of cultural diversity and identity. Originally focused on the Surinamese community, it has now expanded to include many of the other cultural communities living in the Zuidoost district. It runs for four consecutive weekends in July and August at the Nelson Mandela Park.
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Amsterdam has a wellestablished Turkish community of some 45,000 people, around half of them living in the west of the city. Turkish artist Ahmet Ögüt came to Amsterdam in 2007. His work is in the collections of many major museums, including Amsterdam’s Stedelijk Museum. ‘I believe the Kurdish and Turkish communities are characterised by their resilience and willingness to share their culture,’ Ahmet says. ‘Just look at expat Turkish artists such as Cihad Caner and Müge Yilmaz’.
The Surinamese-American Amsterdammer Jennifer Tosch offers Black Heritage Tours revealing the hidden history of early Black presence in Amsterdam, along with colonial symbols on canal houses, national monuments and museums.
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Suriname itself is home to many different cultures, and this is reflected in the cuisine, say One'sy and Tewa. So if you’re keen to try Surinamese food, you can choose between many styles, including Creole, Japanese, Indian and Caribbean. There’s Lalla Rookh for the best roti (Wijttenbachstraat 290, lalla-rookh.nl), Ricardo’s for AfroSurinamese dishes (Javastraat 47, eetricardos.nl), and Kam Yin for Chinese Surinamese food (Warmoesstraat kamyin.nl).
Start your day the Turkish way with the all-you-caneat breakfast buffet at Serifoglu Café and Patisserie. Every day from 9 am to 2 pm, you can enjoy an extensive selection of freshly prepared Turkish specialties. Serifoglu also has some of the best baklava in town if you want to stop by for a treat.
SLOTERMEERLAAN 115, SERIFOGLU.NL
Podium Mozaïek offers a varied multicultural programme of theatre, music, comedy, spoken word, storytelling and dance. Singer-songwriter Ezgi Köroğ lu will be hosting her Turkish Wedding concert and after-party on 13 May. Check the programme for other interesting events and exhibitions.
BOS EN LOMMERWEG 191, PODIUMMOZAIEK.NL
The open-air Mosaïc Festival is a day-long celebration of all things Turkish. Head to the Polderheuvel park in West for live performances by some of the biggest Turkish music artists as well as local superstars. There’ll also be workshops, demonstrations, games for the kids and plenty of food stalls to enjoy.
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The Netherlands is a popular destination for Polish nationals, both workers and students.
Kasia Gach came to Amsterdam to study almost 10 years ago and ended up staying. She is happily settled in the Spaarndammerbuurt, which she loves for its great local shops and markets and easy access to the Westerpark.
‘Amsterdam captured my heart as a city where everyone is free to have their own identity, plans and dreams,’ she says.
‘The Polish community is one of closeness, unity and loyalty, people who just want to be happy in life.’
Polish stand-up comedian Kat Nip has been called a ‘Polish Joan Rivers’ and a ‘joke Kalashnikov’. She’s a regular in the line-up at the weekly English-language comedy night at De Prael micro-brewery. Check out the Comeback Comedy Club on Facebook for programme information.
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Head to the north side of the IJ, says Kasia, to stock up on Polish delicacies at the Costa Supermarket, which offers a vast array of Polish products.
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Amsterdam is home to more than 13,000 people with a Ghanaian background, a community that began settling here at the end of the 1980s. Bijlmermeer in Zuidoost, known colloquially as De Bijlmer, is the heart of that community. Rosemary came to Amsterdam as a child with her family in 1993 and still lives in De Bijlmer. ‘The Ghanaian community is a very supportive one, always ready to help those in need.’
Tolhuistuin will be hosting Ghanaian music of a different kind on 19 May when Alogte Oho will be performing there.
‘Oho is considered one of the most influential new voices in Ghana’s gospel music scene,’ says Rosemary. The relaxed venue in Noord also has a café, where you can enjoy international food and drink.
IJPROMENADE 2, TOLHUISTUIN.NL
Akwasi is a rapper, poet, writer and musician of Ghanaian descent. A born Amsterdammer, he began rapping at age 14 and is a noted presence on the music scene. Check akwasi. net to find out where to catch a performance.
Is France your (dream) home? Page 26 has got you covered when it comes to delicious French cuisine in Amsterdam!
In 2020, Kasia opened her café Kazik, combining her love of traditional Polish cuisine with Dutch food philosophy. With Polish music in the background, Polish porcelain on the tables and Polish posters on the walls, it’s a cosy Krakow living room for Dutch and Polish souls to meet.
The Representative Council of Ghanaian Organizations in the Netherlands (RECOGIN) is an active umbrella group for the community, organising regular cultural events. The online Radio Recogin, based in Amsterdam, keeps the community up to date with both Dutch and Ghanaian news.
If you’re looking for a taste of traditional Ghanaian cooking, head to the GoldCoast Kitchen in Amsterdam Zuidoost, says Rosemary. Owners Sarah and Ernest serve up homeland favourites such as jollof rice, hearty fufu soups and fried or steamed plantain.
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Experiencing Amsterdam from the water is an absolute must, so hop on a boat and spend an hour sailing past old warehouses and merchant houses while learning about the city’s history. We guarantee there is no better way to take in the Dutch capital’s charm. City Card holders can enjoy a free canal cruise from several participating companies.
DURATION: 1 HOUR
Museum of the Mind spotlights artists without formal training who show their inner world through outsider art.
AMSTEL 51, MUSEUMVANDEGEEST.NL
Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.
Start the day with an immersive 5D ight over the Netherlands. Hold tight as you y over green elds, bustling cities and impressive water, exploring the country’s history and highlights in a fun and engaging way.
Entrance is free for City Card holders.
DURATION: 1 HOUR
Learn all about the heritage of the Lutheran community in Amsterdam, dating back to the 16th century. This museum showcases the story behind the Lutheran Church through historic interiors, records and paintings by Breenbergh and Ruysdael. Entrance is free with the City Card.
DURATION: 1 HOUR
From art to history, Amsterdam Museum on the Amstel o ers a perfect introduction to the city. Amsterdam’s story is told through the Panorama Amsterdam exhibition, where you will learn how the city developed throughout the ages and discover its present through modern exhibitions. Entrance is free with the City Card.
DURATION: 2 HOURS
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Enjoy a lunch break with unparalleled 360° views over the Amsterdam city centre in this cosy circular café hidden on the top oor of the Kalvertoren shopping centre. Grab the elevator and ride all the way up until the panorama unfolds. City Card holders get a 25% discount on lunch (excluding drinks).
DURATION: 1 HOUR
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Enjoy a free 24-hour bike rental with the City Card and explore the city like a local. We recommend straying away from the bustling centre in favour of the city’s parks and creative hotspots such as Amsterdamse Bos or Westerpark.
DURATION: 2 HOURS
Refresh yourself with a free shot of jenever and feel the atmosphere of the 1650s in Amsterdam’s oldest tasting room. The o er is valid for City Card holders.
DURATION: 1 HOUR
Get
I amsterdam City Card for free entry to countless museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.
IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITYCARD
Explore the future of sustainable fashion at the Fashion for Good Museum. Learn how your fashion choices can impact the planet for the better, design your own T-shirt and discover brand-new fashion technologies. Entrance is free with the City Card.
DURATION: 1.5 HOURS
Lose yourself for an entire morning (or afternoon) taking in the beautiful art collections of the Rijksmuseum, where works by Dutch masters such as Rembrandt and Van Hals are on view alongside vast collections of artefacts, doll’s houses, model ships and much more. Entrance is free for City Card holders.
DURATION: 3 HOURS
The Pianola Museum houses a collection of automatic pianos with daily demonstrations and concerts.
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Break for lunch at this historic restaurant in the middle of the Zaanse Schans village with a 25% discount on lunch for all City Card holders, excluding drinks. The menu showcases gourmet interpretations of Dutch culinary classics.
DURATION: 1 HOUR
A mere 30 minutes from Amsterdam Central Station, the stretch of distinctive green Zaanse Schans windmills makes for the perfect day trip. Wander into artisanal clog-making workshops or discover the inner workings of the windmills for an insight into the region’s rich history.
DURATION: 3 HOURS
Just ve minutes from Zaanse Schans, you can learn all about the region’s cultural history and industrial development in the Zaans Museum, the permanent collection of which features traditional costumes, handcrafted furniture, and the history of local Zaan businesses, such as the Verkade Experience: an explorable and interactive 20th-century chocolate factory exhibition. Entrance is free with the City Card.
DURATION: 2 HOURS
Back in Amsterdam, enjoy an evening of jazz in one of the city’s leading concert halls. Check out their programme of acclaimed acts from the jazz and improvisation scenes. City Card holders get a 25% discount on tickets purchased on the day of the concert.
DURATION: 2 HOURS
Amsterdam has long been the city of bikes, and proudly so, but recently a new and potentially life-threatening phenomenon has come to our columnist’s attention – the rise of the electric bike.
Once the exclusive domain of the elderly, e-bikes are now the must-have trendy transport of longer-haul commuters, delivery services and fashionable urban mothers zooming their kids around town in three-wheeled cargo bikes (bakfiets) that make my old peddle-powered kiddie carrier look like something out of the Middle Ages. I’m all for technological advancement. But navigating a street crossing having to dodge trams, traditional two-wheelers, pedestrians, cars and dogs is heart-attack inducing enough without an e-bike speeding at you. And like the nuisance of too many bicycles on the roads in general in a city that has more bikes than people, these environmentally-friendly car alternatives are no doubt an enviable urban problem.
But problem they are. Electric bikes –which accounted for some 50% of bike purchases last year – were involved in 74 Amsterdam accidents in 2022, twice as many as in 2021. Recent research by a local broadcaster found that 75% of the city’s residents think e-bikes have made biking less safe. To reduce their menace, city o cials now want to set a 20 km/h speed limit on e-bikes, which according to transport o cials, can travel more than the current 30 km/h city speed limit. Before that can happen, though, national legislation needs to be passed in The Hague.
In the meantime, safely and considerately used, e-bikes can provide just the boost you need to cycle that extra kilometre, battle the Dutch wind, or cross that occasional steep bridge. I can also think of worse ways to tour
the country’s blooming tulip fields than by e-bike.
There are several bike shops where you can rent them and the city has also been experimenting with a shared bicycle scheme where you can rent electric cargo bikes via the Cargoroo app.
Although that seems to put this world biking capital behind the international shared-bike trend, it was actually the proposed-but-never-implemented 1965 White Bicycle Plan to place free bikes around Amsterdam – radical and unique at the time – that cities worldwide have to thank for their current bike-sharing schemes. If Amsterdam o cials are successful, they may, ironically, want to thank their European neighbours, whose e-bike speed limits are largely capped at 25 km/h.
20 Best Terraces
23 Monumental Dining
24 Seafood Savvy
25 Fine Dining
26 Gallic Gastronomy
29 Dining Out
Delicious (and affordable) fusion fare, decent service and a well-designed decor may explain why this new spot has roared onto the scene. Choose from various takes on the house speciality chicken yakitori, including organ meats and crispy skin (from €3.50). But don’t miss the signature sticky ‘rice chips’ with smoked miso butter (€7) or the refreshing iceberg lettuce with seaweed and spicy dressing (€8). There’s a good selection of sake, wines and cocktails, too. The Kaffir Sour (Japanese Toki whisky, lemon, Kaffir lime and Angostura bitters, €12.50) is particularly good.
KERKSTRAAT 59, YUZU-DININGBAR.NL
Keeping it healthy is easy at Parkzuid, where there are six chopped salads to choose from (from €14.50).
This fountain-lined café-restaurant terrace on Artisplein at the ARTIS zoo overlooks an aviary with Dutch meadow birds and flamingos. If the weather turns fowl (pun intended), there’s a lovely wooden conservatory inside the handsome 19thcentury monument, too.
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Add a touch of trendy green to your garden patio with HKliving’s The Emeralds wine glasses (€49.95 for 4 at De Bijenkorf).
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In a former shipbuilding hangar on the NDSM Wharf, a Dutchinternational eatery combines all that industrial heritage (think eight-metre-high ceilings and
burnt steel walls) with vintage furniture and an indoor-outdoor patio. The 18-metre-long bar features a tiled shipbuilding tableau, 34 copper beer taps and 100 beers by the bottle.
SCHEEPSBOUWKADE 72 IJVERAMSTERDAM.NL
Seemingly endless days are one of the great advantages of summering in Northern Europe. On the longest day (21 June), you’ll be able to enjoy almost 17 hours of daylight, and if the sun’s out there’s no better way to enjoy the weather than to eat and drink out outdoors. Some of Amsterdam’s best terrasjes are easy to spot, such as Rouhi on Spui square or Café Americain’s Leidseplein-adjacent patio with its famous fish fountain. Others, including De Kop van Oost, Box Sociaal and Ode aan de Amstel, can be stumbled upon while exploring the city’s quaint canals, rivers and waterways. But a few of our favourites, such as Proeflokaal ‘t Nieuwe Diep, Restaurant De Kas, Proeflokaal ‘t Blauwe Theehuis and Ikaria Park, are ensconced in parks. Or hidden in the secret courtyards of old monuments, like the pretty patios of Dignita Hoftuin, De Vergulden Eenhoorn, Lion Noir and Mondi. There’s plenty to choose from, so no matter what type of patio you prefer, we’ve got you covered (or not, as it were).
Inspired by a Venetian villa, this listed 1806 building’s been home to a succession of eateries. The latest offers all manner of poached eggs, ‘power breakfasts’, paninis, seriously good burgers, and pizzas (from €9.50). Not listed on the menu:
unparalleled park views from an impressive terrace.
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Whether you love to be by the water, surrounded by greenery or poised for peoplewatching, we’ve selected the top terraces around town where you can relax, unwind and enjoy some fabulous food and drink.
On the 26th floor of the awardwinning Valley building in Zuidas, the veg-led lunch restaurant GREEN Gastrobar is one of the most stylish new rooftop restaurants in the city. Rooftop bar REM, on the former pirate radio platform (pictured), is a trendier option, with picnic tables and River IJ-views as far as the eye can see. Helling 7, a one-time slipway at the NDSM docklands, claims
Easily one of the city’s most ’gram-friendly cafés, the canal-side seating at Café ’t Smalle’s floating terrace in the Jordaan – a district internationally renowned for its beauty – is constantly coveted and quickly snapped up. At hippie-dippy Hannekes Boom, you can grab a drink straight off the boat while admiring the Oosterdok. Looking for a shady spot on a hot day? Vessel, in the Western Docklands, keeps it cool with breezes off the River IJ. And you can take a dip here too. Meanwhile, Bam Boa offers an Iberian beach club vibe on the Amstel River, with both sunny and shady seating. Locals swim here too, so it can get a bit busy. For an easy vibe in summer, head to Noord. Hangar, with its corrugated steel structure, sand and hammocks, is a popular choice. At trendy PLLEK, an urban beach and self-titled ‘largest green restaurant in Amsterdam’, you’ll also find that slapdash charm that’s become a Noord trademark, plus breathtaking views of the River IJ and city-side. The nearby cultural café Noorderlicht has a similar vibe and an award-winning sustainable menu.
Nothing says summer like vanilla vodka, passion fruit and lime. At REM, they know their way around a good Pornstar Martini (€12.50).
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to have the city’s largest rooftop terrace. Most of Amsterdam’s other rooftop bars and restaurants are located at hotels. Enjoy cocktails and Rembrandtpark-vistas at Floor17, where there are also regular music events. Canvas, on the 7th floor of a former newspaper printing house, offers cityscape panoramas, affordable food and drink, and a diverse line-up of film- and club nights. And at MR PORTER’s glitzy rooftop terrace, there’s a splash pool and unparalleled views of the Royal Palace.
For an all-day vegetarian menu and one of the sunniest terraces in town, head to Bar Kantoor at Westergasfabriek, which is also a great networking spot. A longtime favourite with the city’s beautiful young things, Waterkant (‘waterside’ in Dutch) is known for its self-service terrace, which stays sunny far into the evening. Travelling with kids in tow? The rooftop at the NEMO Science Museum is a suntrap. Sure, you have to climb 120 steps to enjoy the views of Oosterdok and the old Centre, but this is one of the few child-friendly options that’s free too. De Vondeltuin, at the southern tip of Amsterdam’s most popular park, is a favourite haunt of the pushchair brigade. The perfect place to nurse a rosé while the little ones play.
Find a glass of ‘perfect happiness’ at De Ooievaar, an authentic tasting room with a stepped gable (circa 1605). Or buy Volmaakt Geluk liqueur by the bottle (€19.50) here.
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PROEFLOKAALDEOOIEVAAR.NL
With over 9,000 monuments and a UNESCO World Heritage Site-listed Canal Ring, Amsterdam has no shortage of beautiful buildings. And, many of them house restaurants and bars. Here are a few of our favourite places to drink in the history.
Ponder the past from breakfast to late at this recently opened restaurant and café in a Neoclassical former toll gate, which was finished just in time for King William II’s 1840 investiture. If the walls could talk they’d tell of all who’ve passed through or stayed a while, from royalty to squatters, firefighters and police officers.
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Situated in the former coach house of the stately Huize Frankendael, one of Amsterdam’s last estates, is an excellent restaurant. Chef Geert Burema’s love of local shines through in dishes featuring Dutch heritage products, such as aged artisan Gouda, Amsterdam ossenworst and Limburgian apple syrup
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This romantic French-Italian mainstay combines dependable fare with views of Amsterdam’s prettiest waterways and a beautiful Belle Époque interior with original Art Nouveau details. Feast on shallot Tarte Tatin with blue cheese and mustard caramel (€16), traditional tournedos Rossini with panfried foie gras, potato rösti and a truffled Madeira sauce (€43).
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Named for the icebreaker ship that was moored in front until 1860, this popular spot’s story began in 1702, when it was an inn and tavern. Its architect also had a hand in landmarks such as Central station. A masterful mix of original and modern features remains, as well as a menu of brasserie classics and wines.
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Try this quintessential (and healthy) local delicacy at Haring & Zo, right behind the Royal Palace, and find out why Amsterdam was built on herring bones.
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There’s arguably no better place to dive into all the North Sea has to offer than in a city named after a river, near the Dutch coast. Amsterdam truly has something for every type of seafood lover.
This trendy shellfish-lovers’ port of call serves up a popular seafood boil with Cajun sauce (from €17), but they also have sushi rolls, seafood tacos, pasta and fried oysters, shrimps or squid. Strap on your apron, get your gloves on and dive in!
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To invigorate the image of outmoded mussels and fries, this specialist pairs six delicious riffs on the theme (€21.50) with excellent gin and tonics. Situated in the Westerpark, with a terrific terrace, this is a great option for dining out of doors!
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Stop by this charming cevicheria for an Amsterdam twist on Peru’s famous raw fish dish (from €13), perfect Pisco sours and clever takes on the seafood theme, such as the now-iconic ‘hotdoctopus’ (€17).
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This always-popping De Pijp hangout translates the hustle and bustle of Tel Aviv street market eateries to a menu of fresh, affordable fish dishes, cocktails and desserts bursting with zest and zing, and available ’til late. There are also some vegan options.
EERSTE SWEELINCKSTRAAT 23 BARFISK.NL
For the chicest oyster slurping in town, head to this retro bistro, located next to Michelin-starred De Juwelier of the same owners. Imagine a meal of squid boudin noir with salted lemon and padron peppers (€13), followed by roasted turbot (€53) with vin jaune, mushroom and zolderspek UTRECHTSESTRAAT 57
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At the Netherlands’ OG vegan sushi bar, there’s more to vegan sushi than cucumber rolled in rice. Here, you’ll find plant-based versions of your favourite sushi, including faux salmon, tuna, crab and shrimp rolls (from €13.50) as well as sashimi and ceviche rolls.
KINKERSTRAAT 83, WITTENBURGERGRACHT 143, VEGANSUSHIBAR.NL
VANOOST
VanOost's chef Floris van Straalen (ex-Oud Sluis***, Pure C** and Vinkeles*) was recently named one of Gault&Millau’s ‘New Chefs on the Block’ 2023.
Soaring 15-metre ceilings, wooden beams and impossibly large windows are the first things you notice when you enter this upmarket restaurant at the new Pillows Grand Boutique Hotel Maurits at the Park. The former university dissection lab now oozes calm in subdued earthy tones, contrasting the robust original features and bustling open kitchen. Highlights of a recent meal included a lobster dish inspired by Indian Butter Chicken with curry gel, kohlrabi
and squid ink, and a dessert featuring salted fermented vanilla with speculaas (a spiced biscuit), yuzu gel and chocolate sorbet (from €85 for a 5-course chef’s menu). Expect expert service and flawless pairings with a story and a smile from one of the city’s best sommeliers, Saskia Smeenk (wine pairings from €35). Tip: get there before the Michelin Guide hits because we predict a bright and starry future.
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Head to VanOost, the city’s must-visit new fine dining destination to discover a rising star who happily marries globally inspired influences with the best local ingredients.
You’ll find quirky kimchi croissants (€7.50), scrumptious sweet and savoury cruffins and some of the city’s best eclairs at Et CLAIRE BEETHOVENSTRAAT 38 ET-CLAIRE.COM
Thanks to a certain Emily in Paris, Kir royale is the trending drink for summer 2023. De Kuyper’s Crème de Cassis (€10.49 via Gall&Gall) adds the berry zing to your favourite bubbly.
VARIOUS LOCATIONS
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The French way is taking off in our fair city, as Amsterdammers increasingly choose oysters and wine in lieu of bitterballen and beer.
When it comes to dining out, nothing beats fine, old-fashioned French pampering. You’ll find it at the Michelin-starred Le Restaurant. For a more casual bistro vibe, try nearby Café Caron. Or, admire colourful CoBrA art at Brasserie Ambassade while enjoying the classics. In inclement weather, you’ll want to soothe your soul with the rich Savoyard fare at Bistrot des Alpes. Noteworthy newcomers that are also très français include La Parole, Le French Café, Cafe Garçon, AMI - Café Manger, and Troef. Want to stock up on French essentials? You’ll find a singular selection of organic and bio-dynamic French wines at the independent importer and wine specialist Au Paradis. For French pastry, such as Paris-Brest, eclairs and madeleines, head to My Little Patisserie or Et CLAIRE. And, for the best baguettes and flakiest croissants, we always bet on Le Fournil de Sébastien and Gebroeders Niemeijer.
Slagerij Alain Bernard has a good selection of homemade patés, terrines, rillettes, foie gras, confit de canard and sausage, as well as dried sausages from the Ardèche, and Breton butter. And for all your other French groceries, make a beeline for Epicerie de Pijp
Enjoy chef Jop Schippers’ refined Southern French flavours alongside views of the Amstel River. Our favourites from a recent meal included sourdough fougasse flatbread with basil oil and browned butter (€3.50), duck liver terrine (€18), and ris de veau (tender veal sweetbreads with garam masala and kumquat, €22), but there’s also côte de boeuf with béarnaise sauce and frites (€80, to share) and classic tarte Tatin (€11). Order a la carte or go for the three-course BIB Gourmand menu (€50). Tip: if weather permits, ask for a waterside table in the Sur l’eau section.
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Rijsel’s spartan 1960s modern interior – a study in white, blonde wood, steel and stone with an impeccablykept open kitchen – is just as no-nonsense as its Northern French-Flemish food (Rijsel is the Flemish name for Lille). Known for classics such as Breton fish soup and rotisserie chicken, an excellent wine list and friendly service, you’re always in good hands at this Oost mainstay (€49 for 3 courses).
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Shop duck terrine, porcini-flavoured chips (a favourite of French expats, we’re told) or fetching tins of tuna (€6.95) at Epicerie De Pijp
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Pick from more than 1,000 bottles in the climate-controlled in-house wine cellar and let Jean and Marie take you on a culinary stroll down memory lane with their old-school French classics: think garlicky vineyard snails au gratin with Café de Paris butter (€16 for half a dozen), navarin of lamb (a rustic stew, €34.50) and melting crémeux au chocolat with coffee sabayon and honeycomb (€14.25).
ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT 58-60, AUBERGEAMSTERDAM.NL
At Metro, pizza fritta, an ancient, almost doughnut-like street food version of the Italian staple is stuffed with creamy burrata and salted anchovies (€9).
If you plan on visiting the recently opened NXT Museum, the Netherlands’ first museum dedicated to new media art, do make a reservation at the adjacent café-restaurant Metro.
Situated in a former film studio in industrial Noord, this new local foodie favourite is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner but you can also stop by for brilliant bar snacks, such as garlicky razor clams (€8.75) and sticky grilled aubergine garnished with lemony gremolata (€6.50).
Maritozzi (Roman cream-filled brioche buns, pictured) are trending in Amsterdam, and here they’re given a playfully savoury
twist with creamed chicken liver and quince (€8.50). The signatures of chef Rients de Jong, formerly of the renowned and now defunct Restaurant As, and co-founder Xander Waller of the well-respected Restaurant Entrepot, are clearly present, with plenty of plant-led plates (€36.50 for 3 courses) and an interesting and varied wine list.
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TEXT: VERITY SEWARD
For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit: iamsterdam.com/ whatson
32 Exhibitions
36 Attractions
37 Family
38 On Screen
39 Classical & Jazz
40 Pop & Rock
41 Queer & Pride
43 Clubbing
45 Festivals & Events
46 On Stage
After months of extensive renovation, the Rembrandt House Museum – where the painter lived for almost 20 years – reopened this March, with more space given over to works by the Netherlands’ most famous artist and an exciting exhibition programme for the upcoming season. Catch the exhibition The Art of Drawing (until 11 June) with 74 drawings by Rembrandt, Bol, Maes, and others. In Titus is Home Again: a son, a father, a masterpiece (until 4 June), the iconic painting of Rembrandt’s son will return to the exact spot where it was painted almost 400 years ago.
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Explore the internationally renowned Foam museum exhibiting all genres of photography: this spring/summer, solo presentations will be dedicated to Ernest Cole (until 14 June) and Sara Cwynar (from 26 May).
he world's only museum about microbes, M icropia is dedicated to the smallest but most powerful things on our planet. The dark exhibition space is packed with interactive exhibits, live laboratory demonstrations and microscopes you can peer into to see how living organisms move, eat and reproduce. And for inquisitive minds, the Groote Museum dives into science, natural history and human
existence. Why do we exist? Where do we come from? How are humans the same as animals? And how do we all connect? The Museum of Big Questions, located in the oldest building on the grounds of ARTIS Royal Amsterdam zoo and close to Micropia, will make you think – and question – again.
Stedelijk's summer exhibition, Modern, sheds new light on 19th- and early 20th-century artists and designers who wanted their work to reach as many eyes as possible. Learn about the connections between aesthetics, ethics and the interaction between European art and design with the rest of the world. Expect pieces by Van Gogh, Thonet, Millet, Jozef Israëls, Breitner, Robertson, Valadon, Jan Toorop, William Morris, Berlage, Léger, Cassandre, Krull, Breuer and others, alongside fascinating objects from Morocco, Indonesia and Fiji.
18 MAY-24 SEPTEMBER, STEDELIJK.NL
The monumental surroundings of the 15th-century Nieuwe Kerk at Dam Square make for a great backdrop for the World Press Photo Exhibition, which showcases images taken by the most talented press photographers working today.
UNTIL 30 JULY, WORLDPRESSPHOTO.ORG
You can't have missed the buzz about Vermeer (until 4 June), the most extensive exhibition of the Dutch painter's work brought together for the first time. Tickets for this blockbuster sold out fast, but there is still plenty to enjoy this season at the Rijksmuseum. Our tip: the garden exhibition, where one of the most important land artists in the world, Richard Long, will be exhibiting subtle sculptural works (24 May-29 October).
MUSEUMSTRAAT 1, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL
Amsterdam houses many more museums than can fit on these pages. Head to iamsterdam.com to find them all.
Travel through 10,000 years of cultural history at Allard Pierson, the archaeology institute for heritage collections from the University of Amsterdam. In the permanent exhibition, From the Nile to the Amstel, encounter everything from Egyptian mummies, Greek pottery and Roman glass to Medieval bibles, Multatuli's manuscripts, and plaster casts of famous classical statues.
Designed by the Arab World Institute in Paris, Divas is a tribute to the international influence of female pop and film icons within the Arab world. Centring around stars such as Umm Kulthum, Asmahan, Warda and Fairuz, this audiovisual display is peppered with stunning photography and dazzling outfits, showcasing their music and filmography which have inspired generations and shaped global politics.
UNTIL 3 MARCH 2024 TROPENMUSEUM.NL
Amsterdam Sculpture Biennial ARTZUID brings the avenues of Zuid to life every two years with dramatic works of art dotted along a freely accessible sculpture route. Group tours take place every Saturday and Sunday at 1 pm. You can also book a private tour on a day and time of your choice. You'll find maps, catalogues and refreshments at the information pavilion (Minervalaan 1, open daily from 10 am-6 pm).
19 MAY-24 SEPTEMBER, ARTZUID.NL
Where ordinary city dwellers might not notice walls, railings and ramps, skateboarders constantly search for new grinding challenges and spots for tricks. Van Eesteren’s latest exhibition explores the unique relationship skaters have with the architecture of Amsterdam, from the introduction of skate culture in the 1970s to the focus today on making the sport more inclusive, attracting increasingly more women and LGBTQI+ people.
7 MAY-9 JULY, VANEESTERENMUSEUM.NL
Cobra’s 75th anniversary year enters full throttle this summer with a duo of exhibitions. In Freedom without Borders: from Appel to Van Gogh (2 June-8 October), some 120 works show the close affinity between CoBrA artists with the free approach of other expressionists over the years. Works by Appel, Pollock, Miró, Basquiat and Munch are positioned alongside contemporary pieces by Hazoume, Meese and Brown. 2023 also marks the 50th anniversary of the death of Picasso, and Cobra will be dedicating a special exhibition to his career. The Other Picasso: Back to the Origins (2 June-8 October) is a careful curation of experimental drawings, ceramics and etchings.
SANDBERGPLEIN 1, AMSTELVEEN COBRA-MUSEUM.NL
What do the Tuschinski cinema, de Bijenkorf department store, and the stunning synagogue on Jacob Obrechtplein have in common? New Era, New Art at the Jewish Museum delves into the role Jewish artists, designers and architects played in developing styles such as Art Nouveau, Amsterdamse School and Art Deco between 1880 and 1940. Learn how their involvement brought new opportunities and emphasised their Jewish identity with iconic works by Joseph Mendes da Costa, Samuel Jessurun de Mesquita, Fré Cohen and Michel de Klerk.
UNTIL 3 SEPTEMBER, JCK.NL
ARTIS Royal Amsterdam Zoo is one of Amsterdam’s most prominent family attractions. The oldest zoo in the Netherlands takes care of a menagerie of animals ranging from fully-grown giraffes, zebras and elephants to exotic reptiles that could fit in the palm of your hand. Have a look at their online agenda to see when you can catch a talk by one of the zookeepers to learn all about the animals,
take a trip to space in the planetarium or join a guided tour. And don’t forget to look around at the park itself. You could easily spend a full day exploring the historical park with its many animals, monuments, centuries-old trees, plants and paddocks. And while you’re there, make sure not to miss the two museums located within the ARTIS grounds (read more on page 32).
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The National Maritime Museum brings together a mammoth collection of maritime objects, not to mention a life-size replica of VOC Ship Amsterdam moored on the jetty outside.
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Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) is the city’s largest recreational area. The lush woodlands and grassy meadows offer plenty of space for a relaxing family picnic, and the park is crossed by many kilometres of wellmarked walking and cycling routes. For the more adventurous, there are opportunities for canoe and kayak rental, and Fun Forest is a treetop adventure park for grown-ups and kids alike.
AMSTERDAMSEBOS.NL, FUNFOREST.NL
It’s all about discovery and interactivity at the NEMO Science Museum in the Eastern Docklands. For a stunning view of Amsterdam and some splashy play, head up to the rooftop for the outdoor exhibition, Energetica. Consisting of sculptures and installations that you can control yourself, this free open-air water exhibit teaches little ones about wind and solar energy as they battle the forces of nature.
OOSTERDOK 2, NEMOSCIENCEMUSEUM.NL
Amsterdam houses many more attractions than can fit on these pages. Head to iamsterdam.com to find them all.
Amsterdam’s Royal Palace is a building brimming with secret symbols and hidden meanings and is still used by the Dutch royal family for official visits. Its use – a century and a half as Amsterdam’s City Hall, five years as a Royal and Imperial Palace, and almost two centuries as a reception palace for the House of Orange – have all left their mark. Visitors can learn about the building’s rich past, and an annual changing summer exhibition illustrates its fascinating history, including as a monument from the 17th century.
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After Heineken constructed a new brewery on the outskirts of Amsterdam, they converted their former home into a museum. This interactive experience will take you on a behindthe-scenes journey through the world of Europe’s most popular beer. It offers four floors of multimedia exhibits, historical brewing artefacts, a tasting bar and the opportunity to engrave your very own beer bottle.
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Every Saturday from July to September, the Artis grounds remain open until sunset for their unmissable Zoomeravonden (Summer Nights) evening programme. Lay your picnic blanket between the blooming flower beds as musical talent takes to the bandstand with a backdrop of golden skies.
8 JULY-2 SEPTEMBER, ARTIS.NL
From delicate little cacti to towering palms, those with even a mild interest in botany will be truly taken by one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. Don’t miss the Hortus Summer Nights programme, when the gardens and greenhouses are open every Thursday and Sunday (3 June-29 August) until 9 pm. Relax on the terrace with a drink, enjoy an evening stroll through the plant collection or take part in guided tours, lectures, yoga sessions and classical concerts in the historic Palm tree house, a heritage monument.
As the sun sets, sit in your deckchair, snuggle under a blanket and enjoy a slice of undiscovered cinema on the big screen. Pluk de Nacht (Seize the Night) brings not-yet-released films to Amsterdam’s summer nights at an idyllic waterside location, Het Stenen Hoofd at Westerdok. Genres range from absurd rom-coms, indie and arthouse cinema to haunting horror flicks, documentaries or animation. Many films are plucked from a star crop featured at the major international film festivals and are screened in English or subtitled. You can also grab a bite to eat, a beer or cocktails before heading to the disco.
16-26 AUGUST, PLUKDENACHT.NL
After a major renovation, Amsterdam’s iconic 110-year-old cinema The Movies on Haarlemmerdijk has re-opened its retro doors to film enthusiasts.
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One of the summer’s best film events, World Cinema Amsterdam is a weeklong celebration of films (including features and shorts) from Africa, Asia, Latin America and the Caribbean, shown at the De Balie, Rialto de Pijp and Rialto VU cinemas plus four open-air locations. All outdoor screenings are free of charge, and you’ll find plenty of Q&A sessions and food and music events on the agenda.
22-27 AUGUST, WORLDCINEMAAMSTERDAM.NL
Interweaving myths, rituals and dreams with everyday experiences, filmmaker Saodat Ismailova explores the invisible foundations of Central Asia in the exhibition 18,000 Worlds. Her nuanced works call attention to social issues surrounding ecology, religion and
women’s rights as she investigates multilayered cultural histories. The Uzbekistanborn artist is an important voice within the first generation of artists from the region, and this monumental new exhibition at Eye Filmmuseum is her first major retrospective.
UNTIL 4 JUNE, EYEFILM.NL
A stone’s throw from Rembrandtplein, the Pathé Tuschinski Cinema was voted the most stunning movie theatre in the world by Time Out. Commissioned by Abraham Icek Tuschinski in 1921, the interior and exterior blend several designs, with an emphasis on Art Deco. Like the decor, the films shown are also a mix of styles: Hollywood blockbusters play next to art-house darlings. Be sure to arrive early enough to gaze admiringly at the ornate ceiling.
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Housed in a church, Orgelpark is an international concert hall that gives the church organ a new face in contemporary music culture.
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Every August, the classical music festival, Grachtenfestival (Canal Festival) takes place across Amsterdam’s historic waterways and parks with pop-up stages set up under the trees, along the streets or floating on the water. Passers-by in boats often linger along the canals to enjoy the music played on the pontoons. The festival also has a Junior section, perfect for musical family time.
11-20 AUGUST GRACHTENFESTIVAL.NL
Experience Amsterdam’s most notorious neighbourhood come alive during the annual Red Light Jazz Festival, which takes place in June across the Red Light District. Expect a cool lineup of jazz musicians throughout the weekend, showcasing the district’s rich jazz tradition, which spans back to the 1930s. The concert programme is partly free and partly paid, with performances in all manner of venues, from sweaty dive bars to iconic theatres and churches with superb acoustics.
9-11 JUNE, REDLIGHTJAZZ.COM
The Royal Concertgebouw promises another wonderful, musical summer with their programme of almost 80 concerts as part of the VriendenLoterij Summer Concerts series. Watch as stars from home and abroad take to the stage, including big names such as pianist Yuja Wang, conducting violinist Renaud Capuçon, jazz diva Dee Dee Bridgewater and Brazilian legend Gilberto Gil – who will perform for the very last time in Amsterdam. Later on in the season, the Grote Zaal is transformed into a cinema with live music for the unmissable Star Wars: The Force Awakens concerts. In addition, there are two further film concerts with music from the James Bond movies and a tribute to John Williams. Lastly, the North Netherlands Orchestra closes the SummerConcerts on 31 August with a festive Summertime Finale.
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Spread out across locations up and down the River IJ, the two-day programme of Dekmantel Festival ventures into more experimental music than its techno counterpart. Participating venues include Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ for close listening sessions and Bimhuis, Amsterdam’s temple for jazz. On the agenda you’ll also find lectures and screenings at Eye Filmmuseum and intimate concerts at clubs Parallel and Shelter 2 & 3 AUGUST, DEKMANTELFESTIVAL.COM
Don’t miss your chance to catch The Distillers, one of the most influential bands from the California punk scene, performing in The Max. 13 & 14 JULY, MELKWEG.NL
Always performing with vibrant energy, the five-piece band from Dunedin, New Zealand, led by frontman Martin Phillipps is determined to spread their original and melodic rock music worldwide.
7 JUNE, TOLHUISTUIN.NL
Calm, sultry melodies fit perfectly with the seductive vocals and groovy bass lines of this trio from Montreal. The indie band will perform laidback catchy songs from their recent Untourable album in Paradiso’s Grote Zaal.
12 & 13 JULY, PARADISO.NL
Singer-songwriter Lera Lynn has spent the past decade breaking the boundaries between art-pop, indie folk and the outer fringes of American roots music. The multi-instrumentalist’s latest album combines her well-known enchanting voice with personal lyrics and a lighter sound.
2 JUNE, BITTERZOET.COM
What started in 1992 as a springboard to Europe for British bands (think Blur, Slowdive and Placebo) has now grown into a showcase festival for bands worldwide. Spread across two days at Amsterdam’s most iconic venue, don’t miss performances by Bilk, Benefits, Blondshell, Bully, Cam Kahin, DEADLETTER, Enola Gay, Gurriers, Hamish Hawk, Joe Unknown, Kate Davis, Lael Neale, Shelf Lives, Surprise Chef, The Golden Dregs, The Lemon Twigs, Trampolene and VLURE, among others.
19 & 20 MAY, LONDONCALLING.NL, PARADISO.NL
The Closing Party for Queer & Pride at Dam Square is an event you can’t miss!
6 AUGUST, DAM SQUARE
One of the world’s biggest celebrations of LGBTQI+ equality, Queer & Pride Amsterdam lights up the city with parties, film screenings, debates, exhibitions and much more. Watch the Canal Parade, show your support at the Pride Walk or Black Pride, and celebrate at Kwaku Festival’s Pink Sunday or Milkshake. All are welcome, and there's something for everyone. Queer Amsterdam covers 22 until 28 July, focusing on trans, intersex and queer people with an activist and anti-discrimination programme taking place all over Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods, while Stichting Pride Amsterdam covers 1 to 6 August, focusing on festivities within the city centre.
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Movie Nights
Don’t miss the open-air screenings of LGBTQI+ films at Mercatorplein and Gershwinplein as part of the Pink movie nights programme of Open Air Cinema. Entrance is free, and you can bring snacks and drinks with you.
Pride at the Beach is a colourful LGBTQI+ festival in Zandvoort and is part of Pride
Amsterdam. Join the parties for fun, sun, diversity and glitter in all kinds of places. There will be a parade, music, culture, a beach walk, art installations, drag performances, yoga sessions, film screenings and dance.
30 JULY-1 AUGUST, PRIDEATTHEBEACH.COM
Don’t miss one of Queer & Pride Amsterdam’s most famous highlights, the spectacular Canal Parade, where the floats actually float and the public line the lengths of the canals to take in the colourful parade. This year’s route passes Oosterdok, Nieuwe Herengracht, Amstel and Prinsengracht to Westerdok.
5 AUGUST, 12-6 PM
To coincide with Queer & Pride, Milkshake in Westerpark is an electronic dance music event with a clear message of respect, freedom, love, tolerance and fun. There are multiple outdoor stages and indoor spaces to explore, offering an array of music genres, vogue balls, and even a queer chess club.
29 & 30 JULY, MILKSHAKEFESTIVAL.COM
1 JULY, CHINCHINFESTIVAL.NL
Every summer, Thuishaven replaces its winter tent with an outdoor area in the constantly evolving industrial surroundings. From 13 May, their Zomer programme kicks off with different music genres including ten-hour sets from various big-name DJs. The organisation has already booked Dyen, Colyn, Tom Trago b2b Cinnaman and Franky Rizardo, with more to come.
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A nightclub with a mythical reputation comparable to that of Berlin’s Berghain, the playground gates of De School will open until January 2024 for the venue’s last hurrah. The entire cultural complex, including a restaurant, café and large terrace, is located in a former technical school with long corridors and breeze-block architecture that will take you back to your classroom years. Amid the dimly-lit spaces, the 24-hour licence at Club DS ensures some of the city’s hardest electronic music parties unfold, emphasising house and techno, and with a solid no photos and safe-space policy.
Amsterdam Open Air Festival lights up the stunning Gaasperpark with a versatile agenda brimming with deep house, dubstep, electro, tech-house and techno. During the two-day event, a large ensemble of cultural standard bearers from Amsterdam curate incredible DJ lineups across ten stages. The music programme covers the entire breadth of Dutch dance.
3 & 4 JUNE, AMSTERDAMOPENAIR.NL
The multi-day electronic music festival returns to its home base again in the breathtaking Amsterdam Forest – the perfect setting to get your groove on – at various familiar and novel stages. The 2023 lineup is customarily impressive, with names such as Omar S, Ben UFO, Blawan, John Talabot & Orpheau the Wizard, Sevdaliza, Jeff Mills and Young Marco among many others.
4-8 AUGUST, DEKMANTELFESTIVAL.COM
Get on the train travelling from Amsterdam to Lelystad and listen to a theatrical audio story about the origins of Flevoland. Discover the unique story of
the youngest province of the Netherlands. While tour guide Geesje tries to keep the story owing smoothly, sailor Cornelius disrupts the journey in his
search for lost treasure. Take the sprinter train from Amsterdam Centraal station via Almere Centrum to Lelystad Centrum. It’s also fun for children!
In the historic centre of Heemskerk, you will find yourself among various specialist shops and boutiques, alongside cosy cafés and restaurants. On Fridays, you stroll around the long and extensive weekly market. This market is truly well-known in the region.
Visit
Heemskerk is the North Sea coast's best kept secret. While being only less than 30 minutes away from Amsterdam, you are still able to unwind and completely leave the hustle and bustle of the city behind you. Get a breath of fresh air on the beach, take endless bicycle rides or enjoy the hospitality and warmth of the city, its entrepreneurs and its people. For more information visit: www.heemskerkzeevantijd.nl
It's time for a national party on 5 May, as crowds take to the streets to celebrate the liberation of the Netherlands (Bevrijdingsdag) at the end of World War II.
’t IJ Festival
14-23 JULY
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Kwaku Summer Festival
15 JULY-6 AUGUST
KWAKUFESTIVAL.NL
Queer Amsterdam
22-28 JULY
QUEERANDPRIDE.AMSTERDAM
Milkshake Festival
29 & 30 JULY
MILKSHAKEFESTIVAL.NL
Pride at the Beach
30 JULY-1 AUGUST
PRIDEATTHEBEACH.COM
Pride Amsterdam
1-6 AUGUST
QUEERANDPRIDE.AMSTERDAM
Dekmantel aan ’t IJ
2 & 3 AUGUST
DEKMANTELFESTIVAL.NL
Dekmantel
4-8 AUGUST
DEKMANTELFESTIVAL.NL
Grachtenfestival
11-20 AUGUST
GRACHTENFESTIVAL.NL
Pluk de Nacht
16-26 AUGUST
PLUKDENACHT.NL
De Parade
18 AUGUST-3 SEPTEMBER
DEPARADE.NL
Netherlands Theatre Festival
7-17 SEPTEMBER
TF.NL
Amsterdam Fringe Festival
What started in 1975 as a youth football tournament has since grown into a grand celebration of cultural diversity and identity in Zuidoost, attracting around 300,000 visitors. Today, great pride is taken in the Surinamese origins of Kwaku, and the multi-weekend festival in Nelson Mandela Park is known for its lively atmosphere. In
addition to football, there are many other activities, such as lectures, dance workshops, beauty pageants and concerts. The street food is always a major draw, with stalls serving everything from sizzling Surinamese spare ribs and roti to a range of Asian, African, Caribbean and South American dishes.
15 JULY-6 AUGUST, KWAKUFESTIVAL.NL
The Rollende Keukens (Rolling Kitchens) food festival sees dozens of mobile kitchens and food trucks pop up at Westergas to create one enormous open-air restaurant. Lose hours walking around, sampling everything from Thai specialities to Mediterranean tapas and Texan BBQ. As well as the fantastic array of different cuisines, there are bars serving drinks as live bands perform to exuberant crowds.
17-21 MAY, ROLLENDEKEUKENS.AMSTERDAM
Chicago Comedy Festival
5-16 JULY BOOMCHICAGO.NL
7-17 SEPTEMBER
AMSTERDAMFRINGEFESTIVAL.NL
46 | DO BE SEATED
Concealed between the trees in the middle of the Amsterdam Forest, the Amsterdamse Bostheater is one of the most prominent theatre stages in the Netherlands. This summer, the renowned Orkater theatre group, complete with a nine-piece band, will be putting on a production of Wildfire. This wild
For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whatson
performance – inspired by Maurice Sendak’s iconic picture book Where the Wild Things Are – is a musical and visual spectacle for adults. While the performance is Dutch-language, you’ll find English surtitled nights on 13 and 20 July, 24 and 31 August and 7 September.
29 JUNE-9 SEPTEMBER, BOSTHEATER.NL
Whether you’re a die-hard theatre devotee or just along for the ride, there’s always something new and surprising to look out for at the De Parade performing arts festival. Once on the festival terrain in Martin Luther King Park, you’ll find yourself enticed by artists giving outdoor performances in full regalia with various short and full-length performances, open-air shows and events at secret locations.
18 AUGUST-3 SEPTEMBER, DEPARADE.NL
If there’s one choreographer who has influenced and steered the development of contemporary dance, it has to be William Forsythe, who overturned the traditional logic and dynamic of ballet. Forsythe Festival is an ode to his work, presenting a programme of three masterpieces: The Vertiginous Thrill of Exactitude, Pas/Parts 2018 and the Dutch premiere of the internationally acclaimed Blake Works I. Don’t miss your chance to catch this dedication to the international master at the Dutch National Opera & Ballet.
10-27 JUNE, OPERABALLET.NL
Off-shoot performing arts festival Amsterdam Fringe Festival is all about bringing avant-garde theatre to light, with some 70 productions set in the most unexpected of venues.
7-17 SEPTEMBER, AMSTERDAMFRINGEFESTIVAL.NL
Boom Chicago celebrates its 30th anniversary in spectacular fashion during the third edition of the Boom Chicago Comedy Festival. The festival opens with special guests Mayor of Amsterdam
Femke Halsema and TV presenter Arjen Lubach. This builds up to a star-studded Alumni Weekend (6-9 July) with headliners Seth Meyers and Brendan Hunt and their fellow alumni Amber Ruffin and Heather Anne Campbell.
5-16 JULY, BOOMCHICAGO.NL
One of the world’s best-loved fairy tales comes alive through modern dance and the incredible choreography of world-renown Matthew Bourne. Enter a wondrous world of magical fairies and vampires in this timeless love story with a gothic twist. With an unforgettable score, lavish sets and costumes, evocative lighting and masterly storytelling, this award-winning production has enchanted international audiences across the globe.
Settle in for a night of tall tales, lentil soup and real-life stories at Mezrab. This unique cultural centre in the eastern docklands has grown into one of the best stages for spoken word in town. International guests take to the stage on Wednesday and Friday nights for their popular storytelling nights. Or keep an eye out for monthly comedy and music specials.
An epic tale of love, revenge and hope, the Dutch premiere of acclaimed theatrical production Wuthering Heights will take place at DeLaMar as part of Holland Festival. Emma Rice, one of London’s most influential directors, has adapted Brontë’s literary masterpiece into a fiery theatrical experience full of live music, humour, puppetry and dance. One of the highlights of Amsterdam’s cultural season, Holland Festival showcases a heady mix of theatre, music, opera, film and visual arts across citywide locations with programming emphasising disciplinary crossovers.
8-18 JUNE, DELAMAR.NL; 1 JUNE-1 JULY, HOLLANDFESTIVAL.NL
TEXT: VERITY SEWARD, TEXT SHOPPING: KARIN ENGELBRECHT
Originally called Bijlmerpark, Nelson Mandelapark features a skate park, kids playgrounds, walking and cycling routes dotted with art works and a small forest featuring the national trees of residents who live in the area. In spring, visit the magnolia valley when it’s in full bloom and don’t miss the vibrant Kwaku Summer Festival, which takes place from mid-July to early-August.
A ea market and farmers’ market all in one, Noordermarkt ’s Saturday stalls are a haven for anyone who loves rummaging for antiques, books and vintage threads.
NOORDERMARKT-AMSTERDAM.NL
The world-famous Canal Ring is a stunning sight, but behind the gabled mansions, there is so much more to Centrum than first meets the eye.
The cosmopolitan-yet-quaint village feel of Amsterdam’s Canal Ring is defined by its contrasts. De Wallen (The Red Light District) is a fantastic juxtaposition of historic churches, romantic bridges, age-old architecture and late-night pursuits. Amongst the beautiful façades of leaning gabled houses, museums such as Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, Museum Van Loon and Huis Marseille are true hidden gems. The historic Spiegelkwartier is an absolute must for lovers of art, antiques and curiosities, and as soon as you cross into the elegant De Negen Straatjes (Nine Streets), fashion designers and the city’s artisans (chocolatiers, perfumeries and cheesemongers) flaunt quality wares.
A few steps further, the flowery Jordaan welcomes you to Amsterdam’s real life. This once working-class bastion was renowned for tight community bonds, radical politics, a love for drink, and over-the-top Dutch sing-a-longs. Gentrification of decades past has attracted more galleries, restaurants and shops to its scenic
streets, but there’s undeniably still a distinct atmosphere to be enjoyed here. The bustling markets and lively cafés merge into the Haarlemmerstraat, lined with vintage boutiques, concept stores, delis and countless options for lunch and co ee.
Just east of the centre, De Plantage is a lush cultural garden with elegant tree-lined boulevards teeming with attractions and institutions dedicated to fine art, culture and natural history, including the Jewish Cultural Quarter, ARTIS zoo and Hortus Botanicus. Along the River IJ, historic warehouses are repurposed into cultural hotspots, including Pakhuis de Zwijger and Mezrab for lectures, comedy and spoken word. Here you’ll also find the iconic Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ for mind-blowing classical concerts and BIMHUIS – the city’s temple to modern jazz. Meanwhile, the former warehouses along the Entrepotdok or around the Marineterrein have since been converted into exhibition spaces, waterside bars and fine-dining restaurants.
‘Go get a coffee or have dinner at Mr Porter on top of the W Hotel. They have a rooftop bar with a beautiful view over the city.’
Edwin Wildeman (54) and H. Goes (60), teachers
FRONT AND CENTRE
If you can’t get away to the fairest Cape, allow Alexander Heim and Sebastian Erasmus to bring it to to you at Cape Town Social Club. Stop by for a Cape Fusion Sour cocktail with gooseberry, kiwi and miso with bites to match, including typical Sa a treats like pâté of smoked snoek (snake mackerel) and biltong (dried cured meat). There are also small plates with an international twist, such as Jerusalem artichoke tartare with roast olive dressing and dukkah and tenderstem broccoli with ajo blanco, toasted hazelnuts and curry oil.
RAAMSTRAAT 27, CAPETOWNSOCIALCLUB.COM
Ogle daring Dutch design at the impressive new Moooi store, which houses the eclectic Amsterdam-based brand’s full collection, from lighting and furniture to wall coverings, carpets, gifts and home and lifestyle accessories. It’s the perfect place to check out the latest releases including the NomNom Light, Aldora Sofa and Menagerie of Extinct Animals bedding.
UTRECHTSESTRAAT 145-147, MOOOI.COM
Give yourself a glow-up with this vegan multi-balm by Chasin’ Rabbits (€18 at Haru Haru Beauty Store). A timely choice in the Year of the Rabbit.
The Luther Museum tells the story of the Lutheran congregation in Amsterdam. To mark 75 years since the Lutheran World Federation met for the rst time in the Netherlands, the presentation Luther & The World focuses
Prior to the construction of the Canal Belt, the city’s wealthiest merchants lived on this street before it did a reverse rags-to-riches. These days it’s home to urban streetwear stores such as Patta and Stussy plus the oldest Chinatown in Europe with supermarket-slash-ramen spot Dun Yong, bubble tea shop Biu!Tea and so much more.
on the role of the Dutch Lutherans in the rest of the world including in the United States, Suriname, Curaçao and Indonesia.
11 MAY-24 SEPTEMBER LUTHERMUSEUM.NL
Learn how to achieve ‘glass skin’ (that glowy, poreless look popular right now) and the secrets of the ‘seven layers skin method’ at one of the city’s best K-beauty specialists. Here you’ll nd a wide range of products from Korea, one of the biggest innovators in the global beauty industry, including futuristic beauty tools and innovative cosmetics at an a ordable price point.
HARTENSTRAAT 4
HARUHARUBEAUTY.COM
Bar Bukowski
Celebrating its 40th edition, expect a sparkling program of world music, circus, dance, theatre, and visual arts as Amsterdam Roots Festival takes over locations across Oost.
28 JUNE, AMSTERDAMROOTS.NL
Full of trendy breweries, cultural spaces and authentic eateries, Oost is expanding rapidly while retaining a unique community flavour.
Venture over the River Amstel to Oost, where trendy wine bars and microbreweries sit alongside nostalgic barbershops, thrift stores and bars and restaurants from all over the globe. The spacious streets lined by 19th-century buildings and more modern developments are interspersed with lush parks, vibrant culture spots and an impeccable dining scene.
The heart of Oost beats at the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s oldest street market, where 200 stalls are loaded with patterned textiles, fresh fish, colourful fruits and flowers. On sunny days, crowds gather on the brewery terraces of Poesiat & Kater, Badhuis Oedipus and Brouwerij ‘t IJ’s iconic taproom under a windmill. Further east, lush Flevopark contains its very own distillery, ‘t Nieuwe Diep, serving home-brewed jenevers and cider from its lakeside tasting room. And there’s a host of lively brew pubs such as Café Kuijper or
Biertuin surrounding the leafy Oosterpark. Elsewhere in the ‘hood, stand-out restaurants such as Michelin award-winning De Kas, neon-hued taqueria Local Dealer and neighbourhood favourite Wilde Zwijnen have long since transformed Oost into a food-lovers staple.
Oost has one of the city’s most diverse and vibrant cultural offerings. Not only is it home to the monumental Tropenmuseum, one of Europe’s leading anthropological museums, but also multidisciplinary venues such as The Black Archives and FramerFramed for cutting-edge contemporary art or Studio/K for pioneering cinema and DJ talent. Further south you’ll find Frankendael Park with its funeral museum Tot Zover and 17th-century city estate Huize Frankendael, including an excellent restaurant in the former coach house and manicured gardens and parklands that are perfect for a sunny afternoon’s stroll.
‘The thing I really like about Oost is the diversity of the people, there is a really good mix. I recommend going to Mooie Boules, a fun jeu de boules café.’
Joaquin Fientealba (33), engineering student
Tessa Monfrooy and her partners at Dorstlust (a Dutch amalgamation of ‘thirst’ and ‘passion’) continue to ‘add some badassery’ to the drinks market with local spirits and craft sodas. ‘We’re looking for that special thing,’ says Tessa. ‘A distinctive flavour, a great story, the best quality, or a mixture of those things.’
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DORSTLUST.NL
The Volkshotel is the former newspaper office where the Volkskrant once rolled off the press. For dramatic city views, head up to the rooftop for cocktail bar Canvas and Badplaats – the hot tub and sauna complex. When it gets late, party people can head down to Doka, a subterranean listening bar and intimate club space with an impressive audio set-up.
WIBAUTSTRAAT 150, VOLKSHOTEL.NL
JAVASTRAAT 117H, BLITSKIKKERAMSTERDAM.NL
If you’re interested in how different societies around the world approach the inevitability of death, then the Museum Tot Zover (Dutch Funeral Museum) is just the ticket. Tot Zover offers an array of changing contemporary and historical exhibitions featuring art and photography, plus a growing selection of online galleries delving deep into our relationship with death. As befitting a funeral museum, it’s located in a cemetery and housed in the former director's residence.
Lekker, mate. Box Sociaal serves one of the most creative brunches in Oost – all with a tonguein-cheek sense of humour and mega helpings of Aussie charm. Classic breakfasts are elevated with East Asian and Latin American flavours with highlights including buttermilk fried chicken tacos with kimchi and the ‘Mortgage on Toast’
Fast-gentrifying Javastraat is a raw blend of old and new, where Moroccan butchers and Surinamese roti shops sit next to trendy concept stores, stylish (coffee) boutiques and edgy streetwear specialists. It’s also a buzzing dining and drinking destination, so there are plenty of places to rest and refuel.
This Hamburg-born rug collector has turned his passion into his calling. After working at architecture firms such as MVRDV (Rotterdam), SCHWITZKE (Düsseldorf) and BRIQ (Copenhagen), he was part of the team that opened Soho House Amsterdam. ‘There I learned about the importance of a community around your projects and goals,’ Philip says. Inspired by Moroccan craft, the history of hanging contextual tapestries and a team of professional artists, he started Zakaria Rugs from the ground up with a clear vision ‘to bridge the gap between artisans and contemporary art while considering the environment at every step.’ Being one of the top three rug collections at the renowned DOMOTEX fair in 2021 is Philip’s proudest business achievement. ‘In the coming year, I plan to spend time in India to research and experiment with raw materials and colours.’
MR. TREUBLAAN 3 ZAKARIARUGS.COM PLANTAGE MIDDENLAAN 30A, BOX-SOCIAAL.COM
For more information on Amsterdam Zuid check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods
Stroll along leafy avenues and unwind in the tranquil parks of Zuid, a scenic neighbourhood that combines bohemian charm and cosmopolitan elegance.
From age-old art to high-end chic, the stately museums and upmarket boutiques of Oud-Zuid lend the district a luxurious edge. Cross the canal, and these leafy boulevards transform into the buzzing streets of Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter, De Pijp, exuding beatnik charm that has pulled in young creatives for centuries.
The crown jewel of Oud-Zuid is undoubtedly Museumplein, where the Rijksmuseum presides, flaunting 800 years of Dutch art history. It’s also home to the Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and Royal Concertgebouw. Just off Museumplein, you’ll find an array of designer shops and luxury hotels sprinkled along the flashy P.C. Hooftstraat
Surrounded by gorgeous villas and tranquil curving streets, the nearby Vondelpark – created in an English landscape garden style – is the city’s most popular playground. A magnet for picnickers, visitors flock in their droves during the warmer months
to the numerous outdoor performances at the Open Air Theatre or simply to enjoy the sun-drenched terraces of Parkzuid, De Vondeltuin, and ‘t Blauw Theehuis
The bohemian neighbourhood of De Pijp oozes village-like charm and is a popular haunt for foodies, young internationals and revellers drawn in from across the city each evening. Along the bustling Albert Cuyp Market, trendy brunch spots and noodle bars are positioned behind stalls selling fruit and veg, rugs, ceramics and quirky souvenirs. Head to Little Collins for stand-out Aussie brunches, Ranchi Amsterdam for Japanese katsu sandwiches, Miri Mary for sizzling Indian plates and Ladybird Fried Chicken for New York-style comfort food. The area is also a lively after-work hangout, with late-night cocktail bars such as Mokum and Bar Hachi or trendy natural wine bars such as La Dilettante or Glouglou next to old-school bruine cafés where the terraces spill out onto the streets.
‘De Pijp has a special place in my heart. My favourite place is the terrace of Café Krull at Sarphatipark, but I also really like to walk around the Albert Cuyp Market.’
Lies Mensink (29), works in marketing
For real-deal pastel de nata and other Portuguese treats, make a beeline for Mister Nata (from €3).
VAN WOUSTRAAT 48, MISTERNATA.COM
Vondelpark has been the city’s epicentre for culture and social life since the 1970s, with various shows, gigs and parties organised there. Every summer, the Open Air Theatre in the middle of the park loads up its programme with kids’ performances, theatre workshops, comedy, dance, opera and classical and pop concerts. You’ll find heaps going on every Saturday and Sunday (May until September).
VONDELPARK 5A
Eastern massage meets Dutch design at this ‘massage house’, which combines traditional techniques with the contemporary feel of a luxury hotel spa. Everything’s tailored to your needs, from the sustainable tea to the all-natural oils you’ll be slathered in. Choose from several massages, including the signature Authentic Asian Massage, an intense Strong Muscle Massage and a soothing Stress Relief Massage (€75 for 50 minutes each).
CEINTUURBAAN 252, MASSAGEHUYS.NL
Any gourmand worth their chef’s apron must check out ZuiderMRKT. This cosy Saturday market presents farm-fresh and organic produce, almost exclusively grown in the Netherlands.
JACOB OBRECHTSTRAAT, ZUIDERMRKT.NL
Discover 400 years of diamond history and Amsterdam’s long heritage within the industry in Europe’s only Diamond Museum. The museum collections reveal the stories through films, jewellery, historical documents and the diamonds.
PAULUS POTTERSTRAAT 8 DIAMONDMUSEUM.COM
Not far from Vondelpark, OCCII is an independent and not-forprofit music venue known for its colourful Russian folk designs on the front doors, which hint at the building’s original purpose as a stable and tram depot. The gig agenda showcases a range of alternative musical genres, including noise, hardcore, acoustic, rave, electronic and punk acts, while Kinderpret hosts a fantastic kids’ theatre and workshop programme. Little ones might find themself immersed in shadow puppets, building giant foam structures in the courtyard garden, or settling down for an afternoon of tall tales and storytelling.
AMSTELVEENSEWEG 134, OCCII.ORG
These detailed 18-carat gold octopus cufflinks (€8,570 at Wiewel Goudsmeden) with South Sea keshi pearls are a rare find.
JACOB OBRECHTSTRAAT 27 WIEWELGOUDSMEDEN.NL
Head to this charming street behind Concertgebouw for distressed Italian sneakers at Golden Goose, impeccable pre-loved women’s designer fashion at Salon Heleen Hülsmann or premium footwear at Luuks. You’ll also find specialty coffee at CoffeeConcepts, beautiful handmade custom jewellery at Wiewel Goudsmeden and men’s cashmere suits at Jacob.
As a 20-year coffee industry veteran, Richard Jones has been involved in every part of the coffee chain. ‘With Jones Brothers Coffee I set out to offer not only bettersourced, better-quality coffee, but also clearer communication about the journey of the humble bean. Our beans come from the usual coffeeproducing countries and some surprising ones, such as Thailand and East Timor,’ he says. Everything is roasted in-house at their cosy De Pijp location. There’s a takeaway bar at the front, where they ‘test coffees every day and give advice about flavours, roasting styles and grinding sizes for at-home use’. Richard’s favourite? ‘Horny Goat is a beautiful micro-lot coffee that truly represents all that is great about Ethiopian coffee.’
SINT WILLIBRORDUSSTRAAT 54
JONESBROTHERSCOFFEE.COM
Originally a residential area for working-class families, West is a prime example of how Amsterdam revitalised its neighbourhoods outside the Canal Ring. Boasting everything from cool art spaces and leafy parks to canal-side bars and a vibrant, multicultural crowd, this increasingly popular corner of Amsterdam is rapidly expanding into one of the city’s most dynamic creative outposts.
Bordered by the stately Vondelpark, Oud-West is a dynamic neighbourhood, home to a flurry of top-notch restaurants, lazy-Sunday brunch options and alternative music venues such as OT301 or Orgelpark. Shopping streets such as De Clercqstraat, Overtoom and Kinkerstraat run parallel and are peppered with hip boutiques and design stores, while Bilderdijkstraat pumps energy into the area with its many bars and vegan
This complex of industrial buildings was once the city’s gasworks. Over the past few years, it has been redeveloped into a cultural hub. Troost (Pazzanistraat 25-27, brouwerijtroost.nl) and Pacific (Polonceaukade 23, pacificamsterdam.nl) are the best spots for drinks. For the coolest sounds and sexiest pizzas head to Radio Radio (Pazzanistraat 3, radioradio.radio) – a DJ bar and restaurant where diners get a discount on clubbing entrance. WESTERGAS.NL
Bakkerij Loof is your daytime pit stop for artisanal sourdough, deli sandwiches, and viennoiserie – or simply to peruse their selection of coffee-table books about baking. Next door, Café Binnenvisser from the same owners is something between a cosy wine bar and a retro pub. Tuck into veg-heavy seasonal dishes alongside an extensive wine list.
BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 36-38, BAKKERIJLOOF.NL, BINNENVISSER.NL
Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, eat and do in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.
What game is more exciting and nostalgic than table tennis? Paddle your way to victory at Pong, with a vegan kebab and delicious cocktail to treat the winner.
eateries. At the intersection of the bustling Ten Katemarkt, you’ll also find one of Amsterdam’s most remarkable developments – De Hallen. This former tram depot houses a boutique hotel, the Filmhallen cinema and indoor food hall, Foodhallen, a feast for culinary connoisseurs.
The western expansion continues further to Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes, two districts that have long been regarded as the hip kids on the block. Hot new restaurants spring up weekly, such as Felperlaan for small plates or MasMais Marisqueria for seafood tostadas. The streets surrounding leafy Erasmuspark are ideal for an afternoon stroll paired with specialty coffee from FUKU and freshly-baked pastries courtesy of Fort Negen. Continue towards peaceful Wester-
park, where the former gas factory was rehabbed and transformed 20 years ago into Westergas. Just outside Westerpark there’s the charming Spaarndammerbuurt. Like a church in the centre of a vilage, Museum Het Schip forms the centre of the neighbourhood. The building is the epitome of the Amsterdam School architectural movement and itt offers excellent exhibitions and guided tours around the area about the 19th-century style and movement.
Located in the former Pniël Church in Bos en Lommer, Podium Mozaïek embraces the cultural diversity of Amsterdam, providing a stage and meeting place for a range of cultural and artistic initiatives. Their programme offers music, theatre, dance, exhibitions and spoken word, generally focusing on language-no-problem performances.
BOS EN LOMMERWEG 191, PODIUMMOZAIEK.NL
‘I love seeing how West gets more into food from all over the world with its restaurants and shops. So go out and have a bite somewhere!’
Fabiola Rodriges (43), owner of food truck La Chica FoodINSIDER TIP © KOEN SMILDE
JAN VAN GALENSTRAAT 315, PONGHOUSEOFPING.NL© TIM HILLEGE
Shop minimalist furniture and globally inspired bijouterie at this shared flagship store for jewellery brand Baixa and design studio Ign_re. The former’s surprisingly affordable gold-plated and gold-filled creations exude contemporary cool (earrings from €29), while the latter’s minimalist mirrors, geometric side tables (€249) and clean-lined bar stools promise to make you ‘stay horny’ for Dutch design.
DE CLERCQSTRAAT 78
BAIXAJEWELRY.COM
IGNOREAMSTERDAM.COM
Following a pop-up, Salvo Lioniello recently opened a permanent shop of Salvo Bakehouse, with his Italian pastries such as bomboloni (pictured) and maritozzi.
TWEEDE HUGO DE GROOTSTRAAT 9-11, SALVOBAKEHOUSE.COM
Hand-painted animal aquarelles make for original gifts (40 × 80 cm flamingo/parrot wall sticker €33.95 at Mies to Go).
Part of the De Hallen cultural centre, this partially covered street is home to shops such as Gathershop, Denim City and The Maker Store with handcrafted fashion, art and objects with a story. But you’ll also find a bike shop, kids photographer, affordable hairdressing salon and the popular Foodhallen here.
HANNIE DANKBAARPASSAGE 6, MIESTOGO.COM
De Hallen is a fantastic cultural complex housed in a converted tram depot that’s had something of a facelift. Inside, is a trendy boutique hotel, the largest independent cinema in the Netherlands, and an indoor food court packed with dozens of pop-up eateries for dim sum, fried chicken, pho, tacos and more. Every month, Amsterdam-based artisans are also invited to The Maker Market, where they present their wares to those looking for unique, made-in-Amsterdam items. Discover stands and displays of clothing and accessories, bicycles and furniture, books, prints and other knick-knacks and trinkets to gift or keep for yourself. And, if you missed The Maker Market, you can still stop by The Maker Store from Tuesday through Sunday to browse their collection.
HANNIE DANKBAARPASSAGE 47, THEMAKERSTORE.NL
Pass by cool and minimalistic Borisov for lunch, drinks, dance parties, or a coffee during the day.
RIGAKADE 10, BORISOV.AMSTERDAM
In just a few years, the former wood port of Houthavens has transformed into a climateneutral residential enclave. Inevitably, this has attracted a wealth of food and drink hotspots
often with breathtaking river views.
Formerly known as Brouwerij de Prael, the tasting room and beer garden at Breugem Meeting Point is the spot for home-brewed Zaans-Amsterdam beer. All tipples are made by staff who may otherwise struggle to make their mark in the labour market.
NIEUWE HEMWEG 2, BREUGEMBIER.NL
You can’t miss this dynamic creative hub thanks to its bright yellow walkway. Open for lunch for anyone looking for a deluxe workplace, afternoons at Yellow House pass into the evening when natural wine and accessible dishes are served.
DANZIGERBOCHT 45R
YELLOWHOUSE.AMSTERDAM
Are pintxos high on your favourites list? Look no further than Compartir Wine Bar and Restaurant, where you can indulge in small plates and nibbles. The menu features delightful fresh dishes with an equally dynamic wine list that will complement each bite.
SPAARNDAMMERSTRAAT 49
COMPARTIRWIJNBAR.NL
At this towering sea rig, you can dine 22 metres above the water in a former pirate radio station. The platform is one of Amsterdam’s most unique restaurants and rooftop bars. Head up to the terrace for endless views as you enjoy the six-course chef’s menu.
REMEILAND.NL
Anyone hungry for chunky sandwiches, soups or wickedly delicious cakes should head over to the living room of Zuidoost: Oma Ietje. HEESTERVELD 3, OMAIETJE.NL
Zuidoost is about as far away as you can get from your typical canals-andclogs image of Amsterdam. Still, as one of the most culturally diverse, greenest and forwardfacing districts, it is a side of the city that shouldn’t be overlooked. It is also home to all that is big in the entertainment world; the Johan Cruij ArenA, Ziggo
Dome and AFASLive are where you'll want to be if you’re looking for football matches and mega concerts, and their schedules are always full.
Zuidoost has culture, but it also has green. Gaasperplas is a gem of a space in which an intricate web of streams, bridges, beaches,
Locatted on the site of a former abbey, Brouwerij Kleiburg makes beers according to age-old monastic traditions. It’s also a social enterprise in which a portion of pro ts goes directly back into the monastery’s activities for the good of the people. Enjoy a brew on the terrace, with a view of the kettles, or head into De Proefzaak, the tasting room in a spacious green hangar. Understandably beer is central on the menu here, but you can accompany your drink with dishes such as sh and chips, a Moroccan tagine or tasty veggie burgers. HULLENBERGWEG 6, DEPROEFZAAK.NL
With a strong sense of community pride, green spaces and large-scale entertainment venues, Zuidoost gives a whole new perspective of Amsterdam.INSIDER TIP
‘In summer the Amsterdamse Poort shopping area is a very sociable and fun place. I love to hang out here with my friends.’
Mohammed Kobernardleo Eduarhendrik (61), unemployedBijlmer Parktheater
The Black History Book (€25.99 at Athenaeum Bookstore) takes you through the key milestones in Black history, culture and society – from the ancient world to the present.
and paths connects walkers, cyclists and horse riders. Those wanting to dance the night away can enjoy major music events here, such as Amsterdam Open Air and Reggae Lake Festival. A bit further east is Bijlmerweide, a beautiful and family-friendly farm and café. A scenic walk away in the Diemerbos lies House of Bird brewery, where you can sample speciality beers in the tasting room. Don’t miss the brand-new Brasa Park – an urban garden and community space on the roof of the Gaasperdam tunnel
Each year, Nelson Mandela Park hosts the fantastic Kwaku Summer Festival, a multi-weekend event with live performances, sports and unmissable food stalls. For animal-lovers and
For more information on Amsterdam Zuidoost check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our site: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods
green-fingered types, De Gliphoeve is a volunteerrun mini farm for a wholesome dose of goat petting, craft workshops and delicious pancakes. Over in the more residential borough of De Bijlmer, you’ll find cultural higlights such as CBK Zuidoost, Bijlmer Parktheater and the Open Space Contemporary Art Museum (OSCAM).
The Open Space Contemporary Art Museum (OSCAM) at Bijlmerplein is a dynamic art space with a mission to share untold stories and represent voices that are not heard enough in today ’s art world. Shifting the Narrative is a multidisciplinary fashion exhibition aiming to rede ne our de nition of vulnerability and masculinity, particularly in relationship to Black male identity. Stunning collections sketch an alternative view of art and fashion, re ecting on cultural codes and traditions and providing a counterpoint to the international fashion industry. In collaboration with OHIM, the exhibition showcases works by Bianca Saunders, BOTTER, Filling Pieces, PALMWINE IceCREAM, Patta x Bodil Ouédraogo and The New Originals.
UNTIL 8 JUNE, OSCAM.NL
This renowned literary temple’s Zuidoost branch o ers a colourful range of authors re ecting the diverse nature of its neighbourhood. You’ll nd adult and children’s ction in Dutch and English as well as books about history, psychology, business and nature here. There’s also a good selection of international magazines.
BIJLMERPLEIN 1009, ATHENAEUM.NL
Built during the expansion of Amsterdam’s western neighbourhoods in the 1950s, Nieuw-West is the largest and greenest district in the city. Diverse and spacious, the area incorporates leafy residential neighbourhoods with culturally rejuvenated former business parks surrounding the tranquil Sloterplas.
From Rembrandtpark up to the historic village of Sloten,
you’ll find countless opportunities for relaxation and recreation. In the warmer months, the lakeside terraces are bustling with punters enjoying the scenery. Hotel Buiten is a stylish eatery with urban beach pavilion charm while Boothuis is great for picnics by the water. Locals make good use of the area’s outdoor spaces, with a range of community festivals, sports events and food markets. Enjoy outdoor cinema screened under the trees at West Beach Film
Garden or no, everyone can enjoy a bit of green-fingered wholesomeness exploring the pick-your-own orchards of Fruittuin van West. Owners Wil and Lisan wanted to create a place where the city and nature come together. There are 20 different species of fruit trees in the large orchard, and in the winter, you can pick chicory or mushrooms in the shiitake greenhouses. When you’ve emerged from the undergrowth, settle down in the fairytale garden of Het Rijk van de Keizer for a refuel.
Cultural hotspots are popping up throughout Nieuw-West, bringing fresh innovation and social soul to this green and spacious residential neighbourhood.
‘I love bar-restaurant LELY Amsterdam, especially their sun-soaked terrace.’
Patricia Dorland (54), works at the municipality
TOM SCHREURSWEG 47 FRUITTUINVANWEST.NL
Festival or incredible classical music and jazz performed on floating pontoons during Grachtenfestival
But it's not all lakeside tranquillity in this end of town. Venues like the Meervaart theatre, the Van Eesteren Museum, and Lola Luid are important cultural spaces, while RADION hosts everything from photo exhibitions and art fairs to booming techno nights. Meanwhile, local culinary favourites are spread throughout the area. Take for example Serifoglu bakery, which serves the best pistacchio baklava, and Alsham Delights for Syrian sweets. The market at Plein ‘40-‘45 is the place to try authentic Turkish kebabs and Moroccan fish pastilla. An adjacent shopping centre covers all the essentials.
Entering the ancient village of Sloten feels like stepping back in time. You’ll find the Sloten Windmill Museum here – one of the few fully functioning polder mills in the Netherlands where you can learn all about milling techniques and how Rembrandt, the son of a miller, grew up. Need a pick-me-up afterwards? Head next door to Brouwerij de 7 Deugden, one of the city’s best microbreweries, for a delicious craft beer.
The beating heart of Nieuw-West’s cultural scene, the Meervaart theatre hosts everything from shows by big international touring companies to home-grown multicultural cabaret acts.
MEER EN VAART 300, MEERVAART.NL
Amsterdam’s ‘linnenshop’ is a specialty store that focuses on textiles for the bathroom, bedroom and kitchen from major brands, but it's also the place to go for home accessories and home wear such as leggings and pajamas. One cosy day at home coming up!
TUSSEN MEER 64, LINNENBOOM.NL
Escape the hectic city by spending a tranquil day around Nieuw-West's Sloterplas lake.
Sloterpark offers something for every sports fan, including frisbee courses and endless green space for walking and jogging. A complete circuit around Sloterplas is approximately 6 km and popular with novice runners due to its handy measuring points.
A playground and adventure park, De Natureluur is a surefire hit with kids of all ages. The organisers host a variety of active and educational activities, ranging from kayaking and archery to nature lessons on creepy crawlies and wildlife.
This charming lakeside restaurant, housed in the former canteen of the watersports club, offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and, if you want, a refreshing dip. The painted orange exterior and cabin-like interiors give the restaurant a long-summer-evening-inScandinavia-feel.
De Duikelaar and Watersportcentrum Sloterplas offer all kinds of boat rentals and courses for some splashy fun.
Devoted entirely to Cornelis van Eesteren (who developed post-war Nieuw-West into the spacious district it is today), this museum is all about urban development, 20th-century society and architecture. After catching an exhibition, sit at the sprawling new café terrace, which slopes to the lakeside.
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trams, metros and buses will take you there.
Amsterdam’s public transport company GVB will take you everywhere by tram, (night) bus, metro and ferry. The network of lines will cover your entire trip through the city, whether you want to go from Noord to Zuid or from Nieuw-
West to Centrum. Hop on the metro and continue by tram and ferry, or the other way around. Travelling is easy with the GVB travel app, as it helps you plan your journey carefree. Have fun in Amsterdam, and see you on the public transport!
GVB.NL/EN
Did you know that National Geographic referred to tram line 2 as a ‘once in a lifetime experience’? That’s certainly no exaggeration, as a ride on this tram line will take you all through Amsterdam and show you all that’s magnificent about our city.
Use the free GVB travel app to plan your trip to all Amsterdam highlights. It’s your indispensable travel buddy for Amsterdam’s public transport. It helps you plan your journey from A to B, and also offers the opportunity to buy a ticket for one or more days, or for a group.
Dreading that chaotic moment when you need to buy a ticket from the driver, a long and impatient queue behind you? GVB has got you covered! In trams, buses and metro's you can check in and out with your contactless debit or credit card. No need to buy a ticket, all you need is your wallet, or your smartphone.
Quirky Amsterdam Noord boasts the best of contrasting worlds, with historic villages and hip waterside hangouts around every corner.
Cranes stand tall, marking Noord’s horizon in an ode to its industrial past and the many new architectural developments popping up across the River IJ. In recent decades, this rapidly-evolving neighbourhood has increasingly attracted more festivals, art spaces, gig venues, fantastic dining options and trendy waterfront bars to its shores. The free ferry from behind Central station will take you there in minutes, so don’t miss your chance to explore this quirky and varied area of Amsterdam.
When you step o the ferry, the wide IJpromenade leads visitors towards the eye-catching architecture of the Eye Filmmuseum and A’DAM
Tower. Trendy food and drink hotspots such as urban winery
Chateau Amsterdam, taqueria
Coba and vinyl bar Corner Store redefi ne industrial-chic. While music venues and clubs such as Tolhuistuin, Skatecafé and Garage Noord or boutique cinema FC Hyena and digital media art museum NXT have
grown the area into a muchrevered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture. Make your way through the urban jungle and the lush green Noorderpark, and you'll fi nd the gateway to the spectacular countryside and quaint villages typical of the Old Holland region.
Alternatively, take the ferry west towards NDSM Wharf. Repurposed into a cultural haven with a reputation for rebellious creativity and ground-breaking gra ti, this former shipyard was once the largest in the Netherlands. The urban plaza is now packed with art spaces such as Nieuw Dakota or STRAAT Museum for street art, magnificent restaurants such as Helling7 and Next overlooking the water, and buzzing nightlife options such as Pllek and Noorderlicht. Then, watch this historic wharf’s hangars and open spaces transform as the festival season gears up, with booming techno parties such as Pleinvrees in May or Over ‘t IJ Festival for experimental theatre in
For more information on Amsterdam Noord check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods
‘In Nieuwendammerdijk, an old and unique little village in Noord, we love café ‘t Sluisje, a typical Dutch pub with a waterside terrace.’
Angela Versteijne (63), C. Sierksma (65) and Marion ter Haar (59), former café owners
This spring, STRAAT – the world’s largest museum dedicated street art – gives special attention to the influential women artists who are too often overlooked in a male-dominated scene. Gaze upward at an outstanding collection of graffiti works, installations and murals which stretch to the rafters of this colossal postindustrial space.
UNTIL 28 MAY, STRAATMUSEUM.COM
Visit this former shipyard to see work by local artists at exhibition spaces such as NDSM Fuse (NDSM-Plein 29), On the Inside (TT Melaniaweg 1), Nieuw Dakota and the Beautiful Distress Project Space (Ms. Van Riemsdijkweg 41A and 41B). Lovers of vintage furniture, design and clothing should also check out the IJ-Hallen, Europe’s biggest flea market, which is held here one weekend a month (ijhallen.nl).
Over ‘t IJ Festival brings a summery blend of location- specific theatre, experimental performance and fabulous food to a range of shipping containers and pop-up venues around NDSM Wharf.
14-23 JULY, OVERHETIJ.NL
Tacos and tostadas tear out of the kitchen at hip taqueria Bacalar in a former car park. Inside, the dim lighting and eclectic furniture add to the pop-up bohemian vibe typical of Amsterdam Noord, brightened by the friendly and dedicated staff. Menu highlights include the taco de pulpo, delicious fried octopus on a bed of ground peanuts, beans and a soft purple tortilla, or the black pudding tacos paired with mango and habanero salsa.
Named for ‘the world’s most eccentric animal,’ Narwal Swim Trunks bring some whimsy to men’s sustainable swimwear (€59.95 at Pek&Kleren).
Head to this charming new children’s store for the cutest toys, books and gifts. They also sell pre-loved apparel (sizes 0 to 12 years) from premium brands such as Donsje, Mini Rodini, Bobo Choses and Dr. Martens. If the name seems familiar, that’s because this is Rookie’s second store in Noord. The original, on Van der Pekstraat 101, is run by the same sisters. PURMERPLEIN 20, ROOKIEAMSTERDAM.NL
Marike Holla (38) and Freya Brown (56), owners at Pek&Kleren concept store. With combined backgrounds in fashion photo styling, visual merchandising, dressmaking and store management, Marike and Freya are a dream team. As Noord natives, they were ‘already in love with this upcoming area, but felt like the neighbourhood was in lack of a nice fashion store,’ so when a location opened up in 2015, they thought ‘Why not?’. ‘After all, it’s probably Amsterdam’s most authentic neighbourhood and very diverse and creative.’ What makes their store different? ‘We are passionate about sustainable fashion and fabrics, and about 20% of the brands we sell are Dutch. We try on every garment to make sure it looks and feels just as good when you wear it.’ For the Spring/Summer collection, all brands shook off the ‘COVID look’, so it’s time to dress up a little. ‘With a lot more colour, like yellow and pink, and a more luxurious vibe.’
VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 56-58, PEK-EN-KLEREN.NL
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84 New Land
87 Old Holland
88 Haarlem
90 Amsterdam Beach
92 Weesp
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Nestled between the dunes and forest at Bloemendaal, just a stone’s throw from Haarlem, you’ll nd one of the most beautiful open-air theatres in the Netherlands. From May until September, discover an enticing programme of pop, dance, theatre, cabaret and children’s shows. Caprera also frequently organises performances by local pop, rock and alternative musicians – often in partnership with Patronaat in Haarlem. Keep an eye on the calendar this summer for an enchanting evening under the stars.
Follow the Amstel River by boat or bike, and you’ll pass through some spectacular countryside, where 17th-century estates built by wealthy merchants line the banks. This lush green region is dotted with beautifully-preserved towns and enchanting villages, such as the 12th-century Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, which o ers various scenic spots for waterside dining. Elsewhere in the region, country houses such as Sypesteyn Castle museum boast period rooms, quaint tea rooms and exquisitely manicured gardens. Nature is abundant in the region, and the Westeinder and Loosdrechtse leisure lakes are dotted with tiny islands teeming with wildlife, picturesque beaches and opportunities for water sports. Meanwhile, fortified towns such as Muiden – home to the medieval Muiderslot Castle – and Naarden are fantastic for exploring The Defence Line of Amsterdam, a ring of fortifications around the Dutch capital. For a fabulous adventure, take the ferry to Forteiland Pampus – a man-made stronghold rich in history.
‘I wish I could y, but often it’s my drone that has to do the sightseeing for me. Nothing beats a birds-eye view, and this is especially true when it comes to Naarden. The town is an incredible example of a Spanish star fort, complete with fortied walls and a moat. In fact, it’s one of Europe’s best examples of a forti ed town. Sightseeing from the ground? You’ll nd lots of cafés, shops and beautiful historical buildings such as the St Vitus Church, the Weegschaal (Scale) Museum and Vestingmuseum (Dutch Fortress Museum).’
Lauren Carey
Tuck into the delights of more than 20 kitchens on wheels as you enjoy spectacular children’s entertainment, live music and Old Dutch retro games at Food Truck Festival Huizen.
1-3 SEPTEMBER, BRUISEND.NU
Venture back in time to the Middle Ages at Muiderslot Castle. During Pentecost, you can immerse yourself in medieval music, street theatre and demonstrations as knights and damsels show you how they used to live. Meet the artisans giving a selection of crafts workshops from weaving, calligraphy and leather work to embroidery or making chainmail armour. Of course, there’ll be ample knight displays and bow and arrow demonstrations. Combine this with a tour of the castle itself, with its drawbridge, turrets and preserved battlements, which o er fantastic views from the ramparts.
28-29 MAY, MUIDERSLOT.NL
Saam (‘together’ in Afrikaans, but also ‘South Africa’ + ‘Amstel’), is a collab between well-known Dutch and South African chefs and sommeliers. Situated in a glass-fronted building in charming Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, there are subtle nods south in the colourful art, fabrics, furnishings and ingredients, such as suurvygie and buchu. Combined with Dutch minimalism and local heroes such as North Sea crab, Oosterschelde mussels and Kemperhoen chicken, it’s a marriage made in food heaven.
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This summer, six rooms of the Singer Laren Museum will be given over to the work of 40 Dutch and Belgian artists from the early 20th century, each demonstrating their personal appreciation for colour. Liefde voor Kleur (Love for Colour) brings together masterpieces by Piet Mondrian, Kees van Dongen, Jan Sluijters, Leo Gestel and Léon De Smet among others, depicting domestic settings, glowing landscapes and cityscapes.
16 MAY-3 SEPTEMBER, SINGERLAREN.NL
Picnic on an island? Hell, yes! Begin a wonderfully relaxed evening in the harbour of IJburg, where a 19th-century clipper awaits to transport you to the mysterious submerged sea fort (and arti cial island) of Pampus, built in the 1890s. When the boat docks, you’ll be greeted with an apéritif as the guide tells you more about the eventful history of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Find a spot to tuck into a fullystocked picnic basket before enjoying the freedom to roam around the various secret tunnels, battlements and historical artefacts as the sun sets.
14 JULY-26 AUGUST (EVERY FRI & SAT), PAMPUS.NL
Muiderslot Castle: Take a train from Amsterdam Central station to Weesp, transfer to bus 110 and get off at bus stop Muiden Centrum (30 minutes). Naarden: Take bus 209 from Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA to bus stop Westwalstraat, Naarden (40 minutes). Singer Laren Museum: Take the train from Amsterdam Central station to Hilversum, transfer to bus 108 or 109 to Laren (50 minutes). Forteiland Pampus: Take tram 29 from Amsterdam Central station to IJburg ferry service.
Climb aboard the famous reconstruction of the VOC ship, the Batavia, at Batavialandand nd out how these powerful 17th-century vessels were constructed. In the museum, you’ll learn about the life of a Dutchman, forever living on the boundary between water and land.
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Lying four metres below sea level, Flevoland – the result of a large-scale land reclamation project in the 1930s – is a province associated with cutting-edge architecture and a sustainable vision. Lelystad and Almere are fast-growing urban centres teeming with mindblowing urban art and cultural hotspots – such as the Kunstlinie and Agora theatres. These modern polder cities blend forward-thinking design with futuristic urban planning, all the while embracing the water and nature right on their doorstep. Elsewhere, the region’s watery past is still apparent in its nautical history and impressive natural landscapes. Unique man-made nature reserves such as Nieuw Land National Park and Marker Wadden provide vast swathes of protected marshlands for migrating birds and ample opportunity for recreation, cycling and wildlife tours. New Land proves that human hands can shape even the wildest natural environments. Meanwhile, the not-to-bemissed Land Art on show throughout the region makes for an ideal day trip.
Let the exquisite sea views and landscapes of Almere guide you to a dining experience inspired by nature. Bakboord restaurant prides itself on freshly caught seafood and produce from its own organic vegetable garden. The harbourside restaurant has long been considered one of the best in Flevoland, and the view from the lounge terrace is as exceptional as their creative plates.
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The rugged expanse of Nieuw Land National Park is a truly unique landscape. One of the main areas to explore is the Oostvaardersplassen nature reserve, a fantastic spot for a hike or a day of birdwatching. Its ‘locals’ include not just birds but also deer, cattle, foxes, hares and Konik ponies. Take a hike or bike ride to spot these animals on your own, or go on an organised full-moon walk or ‘golden hour’ safari. More in the mood to sit back and relax? Join the Nieuw Land Experience and discover the area by bus – with pick up in Amsterdam.
NATIONAALPARKNIEUWLAND.NL, NIEUWLANDEXPERIENCE.NL
‘Although the Netherlands may not be wellknown for its wine, I had an incredible experience at Life Contains Beautiful Things in Almere. This tiny family-owned winery, located in the Flevoland province not far from Amsterdam, boasts three beautiful cabins nestled among the vineyards. My husband and I spent the most magical day and evening there, feeling calm for the rst time in a long while. With a natural pool, hammock and covered seating area, there was ample space for everyone to enjoy nature. I particularly enjoyed lying on the grass and gazing up at the clouds as we savoured their wine. It was an unforgettable experience, particularly since it was on land that didn’t even exist a hundred years ago!’
YOUTUBE.COM/AWANDERLUSTFORLIFE
Jessica Cutrufe oNew Land is home to the world’s most signi cant concentration of Land Art – giant artworks made in response to the surrounding landscape. Travel to Lelystad to see world-famous artist Antony Gormley’s Exposure, a 26-metre tall structure of metal beams in the shape of a crouching man. Or the Green Cathedral by Dutch artist Marinus Boezem, which is a formation of 178 poplar trees modelled on the Gothic cathedral of Reims. During Land Art Weekend, a knowledgeable guide will explain the pieces, and performances and activities will be held at the various locations.
3-4 JUNE, LANDARTFLEVOLAND.NL
Batavia Stad is a lakeside fashion outlet centre in the city of Lelystad that o ers more than 250 fashion brands, and cafés and restaurants. Bargain hunters ock here from around the country to seek out big brands at wallet-friendly prices. Look for 30-70% discount deals on fashionable items from prestigious Dutch and international designers. Visitors from outside the EU can bene t from even more savings by shopping tax-free.
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Almere: Take a train from Amsterdam Central station to Almere Centrum (20 minutes).
Nieuw Land National Park: Take the train to Almere Oostvaarders. From there, it’s a 20-minute walk to the visitor centre (60 minutes).
After sampling freshly-caught seafood and regional delicacies in Volendam, take the ferry to nearby Marken, another picturesque shing village that retains its unique history and character.
LAAGHOLLAND.COM, MARKENEXPRESS.NL
Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on
Old Holland showcases the traditions the Netherlands became famous for: shipbuilding, clogs, fishing and cheese-making. For a fantastic trip back in time, head to Volendam, Edam and Marken – picturesque fishing villages on the shores of the Markermeer known for their various regional delicacies. From traditional windmills and repurposed factories, the region is awash with industrial heritage – a time when smoking chimneys and spinning sails enabled the mass production of goods. Modernday Zaandam blends old and new, finding innovative ways to repurpose and showcase its industrial character. And then there are the lush green TwiskeWaterland and Beemster nature areas just north of Amsterdam. Dotted with waterside tea rooms, grazing cows and quaint villages, there is ample scenery to enjoy on a bike trip along the winding country lanes.
The traditional houses and windmills of Zaanse Schans are well worth a visit, but there are plenty of other stunning villages to explore. Beemster boasts scenic waterways, dykes and mills, such as those in Jisp and De Woude. Nearby you’ll nd De Rijp, dubbed ‘Holland’s most beautiful village’.
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For artisanal bread, vegan lunches and hearty dinners, look no further than Jongwijs, a familyrun restaurant and hotel.
The menu is inspired by two concepts: Jong (‘young’) – or an ever-changing selection of plant-based dishes – and Wijs (‘wise’) – which breathes new life into age-old recipes and regional ingredients.
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‘As a frequent visitor to Amsterdam, I assumed there weren’t many more secrets left for me to uncover. But during our annual trip, we made a short stop at Edam and discovered the cutest village in Old Holland. Cobblestone streets, picture-perfect corners and old houses straight from a romantic lm set. It’s best to discover Edam by foot or bike as the streets are very narrow and parking spots are rare. My tip: enjoy their famous local cheese at the Edam Cheese Market. Right up until 1922, farmers from the surrounding area sailed to the market, where their produce was weighed and sold. You can witness these old practices for yourself when the market is revived every Wednesday morning in July and August.’
@SIGRIDOFTHESUN Sigrid
Zaandam and Zaanse Schans: Take a train from Amsterdam Central station to Zaandam (two stops further is Zaanse Schans train station) (15 minutes).
Edam: Take bus 314 from Amsterdam Central station to Edam (25 minutes). It also stops at Monnickendam.
With its picturesque fishing villages, traditional artisans and lush windmill-studded landscapes, discovering Old Holland feels like taking a step back in time.
With its cobblestone streets, bustling market square and hidden ho es, Haarlem is a city with many stories to tell. For centuries, it has been a hub for trade, architecture and culture, and various monuments, such as the Amsterdamse Poort, City Hall and the Grote Kerk (or St Bavokerk) still reveal the city’s rich past. Elsewhere, historic buildings have been transformed into trendy hangouts and cultural spaces, such as Jopenkerk, a vibey brewery in a former church, or Patronaat, the iconic gig venue in a former school gymnasium. Haarlem is regularly voted as one of the Netherlands’ best places to shop, with vintage boutiques and local craft ateliers lining the Gouden Straatjes. Or take the time to visit some of the country’s finest museums – the Frans Hals Museum, Teylers Museum and Museum of the Mind | Dolhuys – before heading out for a lively evening at a Michelinstarred restaurant, concert hall or theatre.
‘Haarlem took me by surprise, in a good way! Aside from its amazing architecture, culture and museums, the city’s hidden hofjes stood out for me. These courtyards surrounded by almshouses have great (architectural) character, but what made them even more beautiful was their backstory. They were constructed for the elderly and widowed women who couldn’t a ord alternative homes. I can only imagine the sense of togetherness they must have felt living there. Now, these hofjes serve as peaceful oases for visitors like me. How cool is that. The courtyard setup also reminded me of similar houses in India. I chuckled at the thought that these tangible pieces of history also show that, for once, the money of the rich was put to good use. My tips to nd the hofjes: get a city guide or check out hofjesinhaarlem.nl.’ @WANDERSOMDAY
Somya Gupta
Located in the gymnasium of a former Catholic boys’ school, Patronaat has established itself as one of the leading stages in the Netherlands. The gig agenda supports broad musical genres, from rising hip-hop stars and jazz nights to singer-songwriter, country, punk and alternative rock. Situated in a newly-renovated wing of the building, CLUB3 breathes new life into Haarlem’s nightlife offering.
PATRONAAT.NL
Flanked by convivial cafés and restaurants, Grote Markt is the historic centre of Haarlem. The Gothic Grote Kerk, or St Bavokerk, has dominated Haarlem’s skyline for centuries. Famous painters Frans Hals and Pieter Saenredam are buried here, and the renowned Müller organ – one of the nest in the world, standing 30 metres high – was once played by Mozart.
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Experience a remarkable cross-fertilisation of art and science at Teylers, the oldest museum in the Netherlands. Surreal Science - Wunderkammer of Art and Science includes a display of 250 curios, from enlarged papier mâché owers and velvet toadstools to lifelike glass snails – all collected by George Loudon, who was fascinated by the beauty of 19th-century scienti c teaching models. These mysterious objects, originally intended to be a means of learning more about nature, are positioned in dialogue with artworks by Italian artist Salvatore Arancio, who uses sound, light and lm to create wondrous installations. UNTIL 3 SEPTEMBER, TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL
Frans Hals is one of the most beloved Dutch painters, renowned for his lively painting style and incredibly lifelike portraits. For the perfect introduction to his work, don’t miss the Highlights from the Frans Hals Museum exhibition at the Frans Hals Museum (Hof location), in which masterpieces by the old masters are positioned alongside modern work by artists such as Piet Mondriaan, Jan Sluijters and Coba Ritsema, challenging you to view art di erently.
UNTIL 31 DECEMBER 2024, FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL
In August, the Netherlands gets set for the Formula 1 Heineken Dutch Grand Prix 2023, which hits the tarmac at Circuit Zandvoort for an unmissable weekend of high-speed manoeuvres and screaming engines.
25-27 AUGUST, DUTCHGP.COM, CIRCUITZANDVOORT.NL
Whether you’re looking for adventure, sunbathing and swimming, beach bars or impressive wildlife, you’ll find it all on the Dutch coast. Come summer, sunseekers bask on the golden beaches or visit the hip restaurants and beach clubs of Bloemendaal and Zandvoort. Alternatively, IJmuiden is characterised by its rugged beauty and industrial port – while the North Sea wind makes this spot a haven for wind- and watersports fans. Hidden WWII bunkers along the sand and impressive historical sites such as Forteiland IJmuiden form part of the UNESCO-listed Defence Line of Amsterdam. Behind the beaches, you’ll find bustling market towns such as Heemskerk and the Dutch Dunes with ample opportunities for cycling, hiking and wildlife-spotting – particularly in the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park and Noordhollands Duinreservaat (North Holland Dune Reserve). Impressive country estates such as Landgoed Duin & Kruidberg can be found adjacent to the park and are worth exploring for an overnight stay.
The iconic beach club on the sand at Bloemendaal aan Zee is known for its beachy vibes and excellent parties, attracting a colourful mix of clubbers and hippy types. Woodstock ’69’s party agenda is a force to be reckoned with, regularly hosting big-name DJs who draw an international crowd. The chilled-out evenings with live music and barbecues are an equally big draw, where partygoers get to dance around a bon re.
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WOODSTOCK69.NL
‘Summer is approaching, which means: beach, beach bars, bike rides through the beautiful dunes, and exploring Zandvoort. I just spent 24 hours there and fell in love with it all over again. It’s hard to imagine that, so close to Amsterdam, it’s so easy to get lost in such beautiful nature. The bike ride from south Zandvoort to Noordwijk – with the dunes of the Amsterdamse Waterleidingduinen nature reserve on your left and the sea on your right – is one you'll never forget. We got to see wild deer and scenery we didn’t know existed in the Netherlands! Make the most of your trip with these recommendations: breakfast at Blue Zone Espresso, lunch break at Hippie Fish, and dinner at Zizo Lounge. You won’t be disappointed!’
@ NORAMARIA.NL
About 40 minutes' from Amsterdam by car or train, Heemskerk is the North Sea coastline’s best-kept secret. Sandwiched between the dunes and the sea, this historic town is known for its churches, monuments and castles, surrounded by lush green parks. Hire a bike to explore the various cycle paths traversing the countryside, or take a 20-minute ride to
An enjoyable bike ride through the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park will bring you to the impressive Brederode Ruins, a ruined medieval castle with a moat, dungeon and far-reaching views from the highest turret. Kids can dress up as knights or damsels to explore the ruins’ many rooms and towers and play traditional wooden games at the ‘ye very olde’ outdoor café. If you’re lucky enough to visit in June (check the website for dates), you’ll have the chance to watch the Knight’s Tournament, but keep an eye out for other events and concerts held at this historic site throughout the spring and summer.
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This free nautical-themed festival takes over the harbour at IJmuiden every year, providing music, culture, food and family entertainment. Alongside the various performances from local and international bands, there’s a host of nautical activities in store, including boating trips, navigation displays, the chance to explore ships, and demonstrations by divers or the re and rescue departments. The event is organised together with the Zeehavendagen Amsterdam (‘Seaport Days’), which takes place the same weekend with more than 55 attractions to visit from Amsterdam and Zaandam to IJmuiden and Beverwijk.
24-25 JUNE, HAVENFESTIVALIJMUIDEN.NL
22-25 JUNE, ZEEHAVENDAGENAMSTERDAM.NL
the beach, passing through stunning dunes and forested areas dotted with grazing sheep and Scottish highlanders. The family-friendly beach is equipped with chairs, parasols and rentable windbreakers, with refreshments from the beach pavilion.
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Zandvoort: Take the train from Amsterdam Central station to Zandvoort aan Zee (30 minutes). IJmuiden: Take bus 382 from Amsterdam Sloterdijk to Badweg (45 minutes). Zuid-Kennemerland National Park: Take the train from Amsterdam Central station to Overveen, then a short walk to the visitor centre (25 minutes). Heemskerk: Take the train from Amsterdam Central station to Heemskerk (40 minutes).
The newest district to be absorbed into the city of Amsterdam in 2022, Weesp is technically part of the city but still makes for a fabulous day trip. This quaint riverside town in the heart of the Vechtstreek is famed for its historic buildings (look out for the town’s oldest building, Laurens Church) and influence on the chocolate industry. One of the Netherlands’ 14 fortress towns, Weesp dates back to the 14th century and – as you’d expect – features many fortifications and battlements. Old gates and city walls disappeared over the centuries, but the four bastions still exist. Weesp was part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a 135-kilometre-long fortification around Amsterdam. The Ossenmarkt and Uitermeer forts, part of that defence line, are still there. Uitermeer is now a pavilion with good food and drinks, and o ers the possibility to moor your boat. Weesp’s former town hall – a stately, neoclassical building – now houses the municipal Museum Weesp, devoted mainly to 18th-century porcelain crafts.
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A 700-year-old fortified town, Weesp’s protected historical centre offers forts, windmills, stately architecture, and several cosy terraces along the water.
Time to cool o ? Grab a cone of the best ice cream in Weesp – even voted the best ice cream in the Netherlands in 2020 – at Nelis’ IJssalon NELISIJSSALON.NL
The top oor of Weesp’s monumental former town hall, one of the 100 most important monuments in the Netherlands, houses Museum Weesp. The collections will take you on a journey through the stories of the city and its inhabitants, from the earliest Iron Age settlement to the present day. Admire the rst porcelain in the Netherlands (Weesper Porcelain), learn all about chocolate and discover why the Weesper jenever was a favourite of the Dutch East India Company.
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Thanks to its striking Amsterdam School architecture, the City of Wesopa is hard to miss. This cinema-theatre is primarily run by volunteers, who keep the historic character and function of the building alive. You’ll nd the agenda loaded up with language-no-problem music nights, lms and plays for young and old.
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Built within one of the four bastions of the old forti ed city, Theetuin Weesp was the rst tearoom in the Netherlands. Choose from their attractive selection of co ees, cakes and pastries before nding a spot in the romantic garden where the various plants attract gardening enthusiasts and buzzing insects alike. You can recover from all that splendour in Bar Blauw – a green oasis of peace and relaxation. Organised in both the outdoor and indoor spaces, you’ll often nd workshops, events, lectures and monthly pop-up dinners.
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During Open Monument Day, thousands of historical buildings and sites are open to the public free of charge, with many locations also organising exhibitions, music performances and guided tours. This year, the municipality of Weesp will be participating with openings at Fort Ossenmarkt, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is generally not open to the public and at Molen De Vriendschap, a traditional windmill where organic grains are still ground into our using good old-fashioned wind power. If you aren’t around for the event, budding bakers and anyone who loves pastries, sourdough bread and gingerbread are welcome at the windmill’s shop – open every Saturday from 10 am to 4 pm.
9-10 SEPTEMBER, OPENMONUMENTENDAG.NL
Weesp: Take the train from Amsterdam Central station to Weesp (20 minutes)
Embrace a weekend full of owers, art and music during the Aalsmeer Flower Festival – a colourful collaboration between local institutions such as the Historical Garden and Flower Art Museum
14-18 JULY, AALSMEERFLOWERFESTIVAL.NL
Find out more about day trips to the Flower region on iamsterdam. com/flowers
Every spring, the iconic Flower Strip attracts admirers from around the world as millions of eye-popping tulip bulbs burst into bloom. One of the biggest attractions is Keukenhof, the world’s most extensive flower gardens, home to more varieties of tulips than you could imagine. Real flower bu s should also pay a visit to Museum De Zwarte Tulp, which examines the region’s horticultural history, the Flower Art Museum and Royal FloraHolland to get a proper grasp of the industrial scale of the region. Or explore numerous garden estates, such as Keukenhof Castle and the Historical Garden Aalsmeer, home to quaint tearooms and various opportunities for a scenic stroll. Elsewhere, the reclaimed polder landscape is dotted with villages such as Lisse and Hillegom, along with fascinating monuments such as the Cruquius pumping station and Aalsmeer Water Tower, which tell the story of the Dutch struggle against water.
Nowhere is the Dutch cult of the tulip celebrated in a more glorious fashion than at Keukenhof, ‘the most beautiful spring garden in the world’. With a staggering seven million owers planted across a 32-hectare park, it is open for just eight weeks each year in accordance with the owering season.
UNTIL 14 MAY, KEUKENHOF.NL
The new myth-busting exhibition Tulip Fever at Museum
De Zwarte Tulp breaks down the reality of what happened in the 17th century: nd out about how the tulip evolved from a collector’s item to a commercial product and what happened (and didn’t happen) when the market crashed.
UNTIL 27 AUGUST, MUSEUMDEZWARTETULP.NL
‘The Flowers of Amsterdam are breathtaking, and there’s no better way to experience them than by biking through the bulb region. As you pedal towards Aalsmeer, where the largest ower auction in the world is located, you’ll be surrounded by vast elds of tulips, hyacinths and da odils. As a photographer, I love capturing the beauty of the ower elds up close, but it’s crucial to be respectful of the delicate plants. Stick to designated paths and avoid stepping on any owers so that others can enjoy the elds too. Biking through the bulb region is a must-do activity for anyone who appreciates natural beauty. Rent a bike, soak up the fresh air, and get ready for an unforgettable adventure. You won’t be disappointed!’ @CHICHIZZHANG
minutes). Royal FloraHolland: Take bus 357 from Amsterdam
Elandsgracht bus station to bus stop FloraHolland ( 55 minutes)
The world-famous flower strip makes for an ideal day out, with heritage monuments and historic gardens, recreational lakes and tulip fields as far as the eye can see.
Ancient Egyptian culture has a deeper meaning for artists from the African diaspora: to them, it symbolizes Africa’s inspirational past (Kemet means ‘the black land’ and it’s the name Egyptians used for their country). Just listen to the music of Miles Davis, Nina Simone, Erykah Badu, and Frank Ocean. Don’t miss the golden sculpture of Nas as Tutankhamun, the Egyptian collar worn by Eddie Murphy in a Michael Jackson music video, and garments from Sun Ra’s Arkestra
Kemet focuses on music by artists such as Beyoncé and Rihanna, Miles Davis and Sun Ra and Earth, Wind & Fire. By viewing old Egyptian objects from the museum’s collection through the eyes of these musicians, Kemet tells stories about ancient Egypt that have not been told before.
What do Beyoncé, Erykah Badu and Miles Davis have to do with ancient Egypt? Music exhibition Kemet dives into the connection between Egypt and hip-hop, jazz, soul and funk.
Just half an hour from Amsterdam is Leiden, once one of the biggest cities in the Netherlands. It’s a city with a long and rich history, so it’s only fitting that the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden (National Museum of Antiquities) is located here. This summer, the museum presents a major exhibition about ancient Egypt and music.
Why does Beyoncé pose as Egyptian queen Nefertiti, does Nas portray himself as Pharaoh Tutankhamun and do Earth, Wind & Fire’s record sleeves feature pyramids? Kemet explores how artists with African roots connect with Egypt, and how they use it as a symbol of empowerment and resistance. Dive into 70 years of music history –hip-hop, jazz, soul and much more – and Egyptian antiquity.
UNTIL 3 SEPTEMBER, RMO.NL/KEMET2023
Kemet is a unique experience for art aficionados and music lovers. You can watch music videos, concert registrations, and amazing record sleeves. Additionally, there’s art commissioned for the exhibition: a video installation by Richard Kofi and Christian Guerematchi, a song by rap artist Nnelg and a costume created by fashion designer Vanessa Martina that was inspired by one of Sun Ra’s most iconic outfits.
Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Store as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport
With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Amsterdam Central station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer. Plus, this is your go-to stop for information on how to get around.
I AMSTERDAM STORE, CENTRAL STATION, IJ-SIDE. CHECK IAMSTERDAM.COM FOR UP-TO-DATE OPENING HOURS
Twice a year the iamsterdam editorial team make this Cityguide, load up the iamsterdam website and keep you informed on social channels about everything going on in Amsterdam. We do this with you, the international Amsterdammer, in mind. We think we know you, but do we really? How do you read our media? What would you like to see more of (or less of), what do you look for and what do you skip? We’d like to hear your opinion: it helps us to know how to better provide you with content that you really want to read, see and hear about our beautiful city.
GETTING AROUND: Amsterdam is well-equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). You can buy a travel card (OV) from ticket offices, but check-in is now also possible with your debit card. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en or Google Maps for up-to-the-minute information. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental shops, but be warned that using your mobile phone while cycling is illegal.
Participate via iamsterdam.com/ questionnaire or scan the QR code on your smartphone
‘De Pijp is such a vibrant and fun neighbourhood. We ate at a very cool restaurant called Escobar that turns into a nightclub.’
Juul Vepsâlâinen (30) and friend, on holiday, Finland
‘I adored the style of the old buildings, they are so pretty. I also found it fascinating to see so many cyclists everywhere.’
Lu Xiao Yang (26), operator, China
‘You can’t miss visiting Feed Amsterdam, a café-bar that plays an eclectic mix of music through their amazing sound system. They even host their own radio show to give local DJs a chance to be heard, as well as exhibiting artwork from local artists on the walls.’
Phoebe Pryor (29), artist, UK
‘Amsterdam is a really great place to go vintage shopping and there are so many thrift stores all over the city. One of the more well-known attractions that we really enjoyed was the Heineken Experience.’
Niklas Kandziora (29) and Dominik Neth (28), engineers, Germany
‘I loved the canals in Amsterdam and there are so many! I did a canal boat tour which was a lot of fun!
I can also really recommend Sea Palace, a floating Chinese restaurant near Amsterdam Centraal station.’
Denis Gomeg (32), project coordinator, Gambia
editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Barbara van den Berg, Amber Brandenburg, Lauren Comiteau, Louise Dunne (EdenFrost), Karin Engelbrecht, Lesia Joukova, Noelle Rienks, Bryony Rijks, Verity Seward, Nathasya Standaar, Monique Wijbrands advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or +31 20 702 61 80 want to become a distributor? partner@iamsterdam.com for individual subscriptions visit aboland.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam&partners print Flyerman drukwerk ISSN 2589-6717
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