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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

SIGHTS & SOUNDS COMPLETE LISTINGS DANCING & DINING ART & FASHION JUL & AUG 2016

SUMMER OF LOVE CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF PRIDE & 15 YEARS OF GAY MARRIAGE

Vol 4 NO 4 €3.50


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AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

VOL 4 N0 4 JUL & AUG 2016

THE GAY PRIDE AFTER ‘ORLANDO’

CONTENTS P.06 WHAT’S NEW? City confidential: exciting new Amsterdam initiatives, events and venues – including your Top 5 must-do things this issue.

P.10 UP CLOSE Amsterdam is the proud host of EuroPride 2016, a chance to ponder the city’s long history of support for the LGBT community, and why the fight for equal rights endures.

P.19 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Amsterdam has a summer festival for everyone, some fantastic urban beaches, a host of enchanting picnic spots - and much much more.

Bart van Oosterhout editor-in-chief A-mag a-mag@iamsterdam.com

P.72 CLOSING Get out of town with our excursion tips; Then & Now in Amsterdam; top tips from visitors on the way out.

P.53 THE A-LIST Agendas at the ready: from clubbing to gallery hopping, The A-List is your one-stop, at-a-glance guide to the city’s very best music, theatre (language no problem!), sporting, family and gay & lesbian events and venues.

STAY IN TOUCH: www.iamsterdam.com www.facebook.com/iamsterdam www.twitter.com/iamsterdam www.youtube.com/videoiamsterdam

WANT TO ADVERTISE? T: 020 702 6180 E: partner@iamsterdam.com

© OUDENES.PHOTOGRAPHY

P.35 EAT, DRINK & CHIC Neighbourhood Watch explores the tranquil posh streets of Oud Zuid, plus the hottest new shops & food trends, and our selection of the best restaurants and cafés.

Soon the yearly Gay Pride, the LGTB celebration that culminates in the world-famous, exuberant Canal Parade, will kick off in Amsterdam. Usually we don’t make a big fuss about it. For Amsterdammers, ‘Pride’ (as it has come to be known), is like King’s Day. It’s just there. You either love it or hate it, and subsequently dive in or leave town; and no small number of gays have been choosing that last option. But they may change their minds, because this year’s edition is different. First, it’s the twentieth anniversary of Pride, which is why Amsterdam is host to EuroPride, the extra-long and festive pan-European version. But the other more important reason is that it is again as vital as it was twenty years ago. However many Gay Prides we’ve had, acceptance of LGTBs worldwide has plummeted in the past ten years. In a country like Morocco, a true mecca for gay westerners in the fifties, you’ll again be thrown in jail for having sex with someone of your own gender. Even in good old tolerant Amsterdam, gays who openly display their affection will sometimes be verbally abused, spat at – or worse, beaten. Dutch photographer Erwin Olaf, who figures in our extensive coverage of the EuroPride and the LGTB community, was one of the first and most outspoken Amsterdammers on this issue, by springing to action and organising a kiss-in in front of the store where he was asked not to smooch his partner. After ‘Orlando’ every society will have to choose. If you want to protect your LGTB community against hate crimes, you cannot be tolerant of the intolerant. Gay Pride has never been as needed than now. It is a unique opportunity for our society to show its true colors: to have a Pride that is as outrageous as ever and perfectly safe for everyone.


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OPENING

jul & aug 2016

What’s new? (in town)

All the latest cultural news plus the fresh new initiatives, events and venues making Amsterdam the place to be.

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‘W.T.F @ CASEYNEISTAT!? IS THIS EVEN LEGAL?’ THE YOUTUBE SENSATION CATCHES SOME WAVES ON AMSTERDAM’S CANALS – IN A TUX, NATURALLY

text Mark Smith

SIGN O’ THE TIMES

THE FRENCH CONNECTION For nearly a century, monument to French Enlightenment Maison Descartes has stood sentinel in the heart of Amsterdam. Now, however, the Golden Age property has been put up for sale by the French state, with no programming planned for the coming season. It seems the cultural institution will close its doors for the final time on 1 July, with no word as yet as to whether the 20-odd staff will be saying ‘à bientôt’ or ‘au revoir’… Visit it now while you still can.

Vijzelgracht 2a www.institutfrancais.nl

Anyone who’s wandered Amsterdam in search of a beer will most probably be acquainted with the Amsterdamse Krulletter, that intricately exuberant handpainted script that decorates the windows of traditional brown bars. On 26-28 August, the city is embracing its typographical heritage and looking to the future of signwriting via Letterheads 2016, a series of fascinating speciality workshops with titles ranging from Gold Leaf Techniques to Truck Lettering. www.amsterdamsignpainters.nl

FIETSEN FIRST Throughout history, Amsterdam has boasted her share of firsts – from the world’s first stock exchange to the first legally recognised gay marriage. But now the Dutch capital is solidifying her reputation as the foremost cycling city with another first: the world’s first Bike Mayor. An initiative of bike advocacy organisation CycleSpace, the semi-official post will function as go-between connecting City Hall, cyclists and community groups. And while some may question the need for such an initiative in a city where 60% of all inner-city journeys are undertaken by bike, according to CycleSpace co-founder Maud de Vries, ‘There is a tendency now to see bikes as a problem.’ It’s a problem many cities would apparently like to have: CycleSpace plans to export the concept and found an annual conference beginning in 2017. www.cyclespace.nl


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‘THANKS @ANNEFRANKHOUSE FOR KEEPING HER MEMORY ALIVE. WE MUST NEVER FORGET THE TERRIBLE LESSONS OF DISCRIMINATION’

THE ROOMS AT NEW AMSTERDAM HOTEL ZOKU COME WITH A FULLY STOCKED FRIDGE – AND ALL THE OFFICE SUPPLIES YOU COULD WISH FOR

APPLE CEO @TIM_COOK TAKES SOME CONTEMPLATIVE TIME OUT WHILE VISITING AMSTERDAM TECH COMPANY, ASSISTIVEWARE

WWW.LIVEZOKU.COM

© KENTA HASEGAWA

CLOSED-LOOP LIVING

PEEK AT PERFECT PORCELAIN Building on some 350 years of commercial and creative relations – and reviving a 400-year-old craft – the latest exhibition in the Rijksmuseum’s Asian Pavilion presents a contemporary collection of Japanese Arita porcelain. Created by Dutch design duo Scholten & Baijings, Japanese designer Teruhiro Yanagihara and 16 designers from around the world, the works revive ancient knowhow and traditional practices for the present. Until 9 October Rijksmuseum, Museumstraat 1 www.rijksmuseum.com

The Friday night queue in Albert Heijn may be a thing of the past for residents of Amsterdam’s newest neighbourhood proposition. Designed to be fully self-suffi cient, growing its own food, making its own energy and handling its own waste, ReGen Village is the brainchild of a California-based developer that calls itself the Tesla of eco-villages. The 100-house community on the outskirts of Almere is due for completion in 2017. www.regenvillages.com

ON THE MAKE Founded in London and expanding rapidly, Makerversity has just touched down in Amsterdam. Committed to supporting a diverse selection of maker start-ups, the 2,000 m2 space will house co-working spaces, state-of-the-art prototyping and fabrication workshops, a ‘maker’ cafe, public events and dedicated learning facilities. And in true ‘maker’ spirit, the interior was designed and built by makers from the London branch. Marineterrein, Kattenburgerstraat 5 www.makerversity.org

AMSTERDAM APPARITIONS It’s long been a Mecca for a certain kind of ‘pilgrim’, but Amsterdam could soon be enjoying an influx of visitors seeking a more traditionally spiritual experience. Beginning in 1945, Amsterdammer Ida Peerdeman was visited by the Virgin Mary. In addition to warning Peerdeman of the perils of modernity and predicting communism in China and the establishment of the state of Israel, the Madonna also decreed a pilgrimage church be constructed in the city. And now some 70 years later, that may finally happen. Planned for a wasteland in the south of the city, the proposed blueprint is for a replica of Istanbul’s Aya Sofia and for a pilgrimage trade to rival Lourdes and Fatima.


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jul & aug 2016

OPENING WHAT’S NEW?

 BACK FOR ITS FIFTH SERIES, ON THE ROOF PRESENTS A SERIES OF ROOFTOP CONCERTS IN AMSTERDAM NOORD, FROM JAZZ TO WORLD MUSIC

‘IT WAS GREAT HAVING YOU @DAVIDDUCHOVNY ENJOY YOUR THE COLD-PRESSED JUICERY BREAKFAST AND THE REST OF YOUR EUROPEAN TOUR’

THE ACTOR-SLASH-SINGER ENJOYS A ‘PARTY ON A BIKE’ THE MORNING AFTER THE NIGHT BEFORE IN MELKWEG, @ROCYCLESTUDIOS

UNTIL 2 SEPTEMBER WWW.ON-THE-ROOF.COM

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© JOEP VAN AERT

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Burgemeester de Vlugtlaan 125 www.vaneesterenmuseum.nl

TOP 5 to do

© JEROEN VAN ZIJP

In a city famed for its beautiful buildings – from Golden Age splendour through the expressionist Amsterdam School style to bleeding-edge contemporary cool – you’d be forgiven for thinking our fair city had few architectural surprises to reveal. And yet, as above, so below. Far below – even farther below sea level than is standard in these low lands – in the murky depths of New West’s 30-metre-deep Sloterplas lake lies the city’s only underwater architecture. The so-called ‘Cockelbockel’ house is owned by diving club OJC, which installed the structure back in 1966. Experienced divers can access the Cockelbockel through a narrow hole in the floor, and once inside can remove their oxygen masks. Take a tour with the Van Eesteren Museum.

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WATER WORLD

© OUDENES PHOTOGRAPHY

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If you only do one thing in Amsterdam, make it one of our top picks of must-do events, exhibitions, museums, music and more.

enchanting backdrop.

1 EUROPRIDE

Like a modern-day troubadour, this travelling performing-arts festival brings theatre, dance and music to the banks of the Amstel River.

Amsterdam celebrates and supports the LGBT community with more than two weeks of special events and parties in this massive pan-European blow-out. 23 July-7 August Various locations www.pride.amsterdam

2 GRACHTENFESTIVAL The crème de la crème of contemporary classical music uses the city’s canals as an

12-21 August Various locations www.grachtenfestival.nl

5 JULIDANS

3 DE PARADE

12-28 August Martin Luther King Park www.deparade.nl

4 FILMS WITH A VIEW Plop down on a Big Boy and enjoy outdoor cinema screenings from the balmy comforts of Pllek’s urban beach. Every Tuesday

Pllek www.pllek.nl

Seven of Amsterdam’s stages are graced by the world’s best contemporary dance, with cutting-edge choreographies by up-and-coming and established artists. Until 10 July Various locations www.julidans.nl


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‘CONGRATULATIONS TO THE NATIONAL OPERA FOR WINNING THE TITLE OF BEST OPERA HOUSE IN THE WORLD AT THE INTERNATIONAL OPERA AWARDS 2016’ WWW.OPERABALLET.NL © THOMAS CARRAGE

HIGH-FLYING COME-DOWNS

ART OF THE ALGORITHM One facial-recognition algorithm, 13 layers of UV ink, 18 months of development and 148 million pixels. Those are the magic numbers a team of data scientists, developers, engineers and art historians used to create ‘The New Rembrandt’, an elaborate, 3D-printed ‘forgery’ of the fine artist’s signature style. Commissioned by Dutch banking behemoth ING Bank to match the company’s financial innovation in the world of art and culture, it’s the brainchild of ad exec Bas Korsten, who calls the project ‘a way of getting to know more about what made Rembrandt Rembrandt’. And so, four centuries after the Old Master’s death, the team have brought his talent back to life, via a detailed study of his use of geometry, composition and painting materials. www.nextrembrandt.com

SPUD-U-LIKE While there’s much to be said for the Belgian frites and the lashings of mayonnaise that are the staple companion to almost every main course found in Amsterdam – from saté to salad – it’s surely not just the Brits who miss the classic chunky chip, drenched in tangy malt vinegar. The Old West’s newest culinary addition, the somewhat unimaginatively named The Chippy, also boasts beer-battered fried fish, mushy peas, pickled eggs and curry sauce – plus battered Mars Bars for the sweet of tooth. Kinkerstraat 24 www.thechippy.nl

Many an Amsterdam visitor has experienced their share of highs and lows in our fair city, but for those passengers aboard the first direct flight from Dundee, Scotland, to Amsterdam, the roller-coaster began before they’d even set foot on Dutch soil. While a two-hour delay left some flying Scotsmen a-grumbling, Flybe Chief Revenue Officer Vincent Hodder made light of the delay, declaring the route the most successful the company has ever launched, with more than 1,400 seats sold in the first five days. And while that was probably of little comfort to those who missed their on-bound connections, no doubt the free fizz and Dundee cake laid out in the waiting room went some way towards easing the inconvenience… www.flybe.com


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PART I UP CLOSE

summer of love

SUMMER OF LOVE

This summer, the city celebrates 20 years of Amsterdam Pride by hosting EuroPride, the colossal, two-week-long, pan-European event dedicated to LGBT rights and culture. EUROPRIDE 2016: JOIN OUR FREEDOM The first EuroPride took place in London in 1992, helmed by the European Pride Organisers Association (EPOA), backed by the belief that there is strength in numbers. Hosted in a different European city every year since, EuroPride unites international forces to promote LGBT pride on a pan-European level, lobbying for equal rights while facilitating networking and skill sharing. And of course, bringing throngs of supporters together for monumental celebrations: attendance has grown from 100,000 visitors in its first edition to several millions today. This year it’s a 16-day affair, with the theme ‘Join Our Freedom’, boasting a gargantuan programme of events, from parades and parties to conferences and remembrance vigils. Returning to Amsterdam after their first visit in 1994, the EuroPride organisers will open an information HQ on Rembrandtplein from 22 July to 7 August (11:00-22:00), with friendly staff ready to answer all questions. Amsterdam’s own Pink Point kiosk on Westermarkt is also a good source of information on the city’s LGBT scene (daily 10:30-18:00). Get ready to feel free. EuroPride 23 July-7 August www.pride.amsterdam


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Coming a few short weeks after the Orlando shooting, Pride offers the opportunity to examine why the activist celebration remains as relevant today as when it flaunted its first pink boas two decades ago. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé and Leda Georgiades

LIBERTY CENTRAL

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© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZE

msterdam has long been hailed as a leading champion of LGBT rights – not only in the law but also in spirit. ‘We considered many places, but in the end Amsterdam won our hearts, and its stance on gay rights definitely played a big part,’ say Al Strachan and Aled Davies of their decision to move to Amsterdam from the UK six years ago. ‘You’re just more comfortable as a gay man here,’ adds Strachan. ‘There is less bother with what people do,’ explains Davies. The city’s love affair with tolerance began as far back as 1811, when homosexuality was decriminalised under Napoleonic law. A hundred years later, one of the world’s first openly gay bars, The Empire, was already serving cosmos in Amsterdam; and the COC, the official Dutch LGBT organisation, was founded in 1946. While New York holds the badge of honour for throwing the first gay-pride event in 1969, the Dutch launched their own Pink Saturday shortly thereafter, in 1977. Still hosted in a different city every year, Pink Saturday’s mission is geared towards activism. It was in 1996, with an eye towards celebrating freedom and diversity in its signature merry way, that Amsterdam also

started throwing its now world-famous Pride bash, which culminates in the boisterous and colourful Canal Parade. To commemorate this 20th edition of Amsterdam Pride, Amsterdam was invited to host EuroPride from 23 July to 7 August, featuring a programme jammed with parties, cultural and sporting events, and more serious endeavours such as discussion panels and remembrance happenings. LIVE AND LET LIVE 2016 also marks the 15th anniversary of another important milestone for the city: it is here that, on 1 April 2001, the world’s first same-gender weddings were consecrated by (then) Mayor Job Cohen. Anne Marie Thus and Helene Faasen were one of the couples that tied the knot at midnight that day – officially, the first lesbian wives in the world. ‘We love each other; we wanted to commit and take care of each other. We weren’t the first to do all the work, but we were the lucky ones. It made us want to pay it forward,’ says Thus, a registered nurse who kept her word by founding Meer Dan Gewenst (‘More than Desired’), an organisation that supports LGBT parenting rights throughout Europe.

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PART I UP CLOSE

summer of love

Four couples (three gay and one lesbian) were picked to be the first to have their unions sealed on 1 April 2001 under the new law, the first of its kind in the world. ‘We saw an ad in the (now defunct) Gay Krant looking for gay couples who wanted to marry,’ recalls Anne Marie Thus. ‘In just three weeks, the city took care of organising everything for us, including the flowers and the cake.’ After a few initial meetings, the four couples agreed. ‘We were okay with getting married alongside each other because this was not about the eight of us, but about all LGBT couples in the world. We actually grew very close: Helene and I always say that we had six grooms,‘ she adds with a warm smile. Mayor Job Cohen was so moved by the momentous event that he finished his speech 10 minutes before midnight rang in the new law. ‘We had to wait and the tension was palpable. But then something extraordinary happened: everyone in the room started clapping. And they all applauded until midnight, until we could finally get married.’

© REUTERS API

THE FIRST LGBT WEDDING

EUROPRIDE: DANCE & PARTY EVENTS A call to disco dollies everywhere! Party options are varied and plentiful: Caribbean rhythms at the Reality Bar, glitzy camp classics at Danserette’s 10th anniversary at Paradiso or kinky sauna parties where the music isn’t necessarily the focus. Meet your future best friends at street events at the Homomonument, on the gayoriented Reguliersdwarsstraat and along the Amstel (to name a few), or don your leather chaps for the XXXLeather Sunday dance party on 24 July – if that’s not too much for a school night. The most riotous happenings follow the Canal Parade on 6 August, and let’s not forget the official closing ceremony at Rembrandtplein the following day, where the line-up of international DJs will bring EuroPride 2016 to a writhing, pumping, delirious end.


13 Gay marriage has made strides worldwide since that first wedding, but the Netherlands remains one of the only countries where equal rights have come this far. Discrimination has been illegal since 1983; blood-donation restrictions for gay men are being lifted, slowly but surely; and adoption laws came as part of the marriage package in 2001, ensuring that non-biological parents would have the same parental rights as their partner. While there are still detractors, the local mentality seems to be in step with the law: the latest polls show a whopping 91% national support for LGBT marriage equality. ‘At work, nobody cares that I am gay,’ says a relieved Strachan, who is employed by an internet non-profit. ‘It’s not that clear cut in a corporate environment, but it’s definitely easier here,’ adds Davies, explaining that the Dutch mentality can be summarised by ‘do whatever you like, as long as I don’t have to take part’. This unwavering spirit of liberalism, added to the city’s landmark statutory achievements, beg the question: is Pride still relevant in Amsterdam? FIGHTING THE GOOD FIGHT ‘I don’t attend Pride anymore,’ claims Antonio Rondilla, 51. ‘We got what we wanted, so I don’t see the point.’ But Anne Marie Thus disagrees: ‘We got complacent, but the fight is

not over.’ She speaks of the older generations having to go back into the closet when they move to care homes, where they might otherwise face abuse, gossip and loneliness. While there is a special network of nurses that caters specifically to the LGBT community, a lifesaver for many, the mere existence of these networks proves that discrimination is alive and well. It sheds a new (and more palatable) light on the construction of condos reserved for gay and lesbian couples (such as the Roze Hallen in the Oud-West neighbourhood), which at first view are disturbingly reminiscent of another intolerant era’s segregationist housing. The younger generations are not spared either: in spite of the COC’s excellent sex-ed programmes, which include comprehensive classes on diversity as early as primary school, official studies show dismal statistics on LGBT youth integration. Almost half of these children have had suicidal thoughts, and 12% have attempted suicide – four to five times the rate of heterosexual children. Children with same-gender parents also face bullying, adds Thus, and what the acceptance of homosexuality still severely lacks is simply the perception of normalcy. ‘My kids still have to explain at length that they have two mothers,’ she laments. ‘And what child on Earth wants to talk about their parents’ sexuality?’

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ROZE IN BLAUW An Amsterdam-born initiative of the police department, Roze in Blauw (‘Pink in Blue’) is now a national network representing the interests of the LGBT community within and outside the Dutch police force. In addition to devoting special units to the investigation of infractions and crimes against gay and transgender individuals, the Pink team also dedicates their crucial efforts to building strong ties with and between communities. They promote tolerance not only through educational programmes but also by personally reaching out to the public, encouraging victims to report even verbal assaults and fostering greater sensitivity amongst offenders via ‘community liaison’ officers. Their dedicated 24hour hotline can be reached at +31 (0)20 559 5385.

EUROPRIDE: PINK SATURDAY Pink Saturday was founded in Amsterdam in 1977, when LGBT rights were in dire need of meaningful activism and mass political support, and it has since been hosted in a different city every year. It comes home for EuroPride, kicking off the fortnight-plus of events on Saturday 23 July with the annual Pride Walk. Absolutely everyone can join in to show their support for global equality and human rights. The walk will start at Vondelpark and end up at the central point of the first EuroPride weekend: the Dam Square. The Dam Square will also host the Human Rights Concert on 24 July. The concert will include international performers accompanied by the New Amsterdam Orchestra.


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PART I UP CLOSE

EUROPRIDE: CANAL PARADE

Š OUDENES.PHOTOGRAPHY

The Canal Parade is all about the right to freedom of self-expression, and it never disappoints on that front! 2016’s Parade will be the most memorable to date: 80 colourful floats, each carrying dozens of exuberant, costumed and dancing passengers, will overtake the Prinsengracht and Amstel River on Saturday 6 August to the delight of millions of revellers and onlookers (including families with children) cheering from the streets and bridges along the route. Representing LGBTI organisations from all over the world and across the entire spectrum, from the corporate world, the armed forces and police, the sporting world and even minority communities (there has been a Turkish boat since 2012, and a Moroccan float since 2014), the Amsterdam Canal Parade delivers a fun but powerful message of national and international tolerance.

summer of love


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ROLE MODEL Nonetheless, there is an evident backlash against the LGBT-rights movement worldwide at the moment. While countries such as Italy are climbing aboard the marriage-equality bandwagon, the United States is currently at the centre of a controversy on transgender bathroom usage. ‘The US is very influential, and the intolerance will spread,’ worries Anne Marie Thus. In her collaborations with other international foundations, Thus says she feels honoured that she can speak

on behalf of people who fight for their rights, especially in oppressive regimes. ‘We take care of each other worldwide, because we face the same things.’ Unfortunately, the Orlando mass shooting demonstrates that senseless intolerance and brutality are also a reality of the Western world; but, thankfully, solidarity too. Thus emphasises as well that LGBT rights offer protection beyond the LGBT community. For example, it’s important to strengthen and expand related national laws, such as those on commercial surrogacy (which is still illegal in the Netherlands), to thwart the potential exploitation of women, especially in developing countries. LGBT rights are about human rights in general. With floats representing gay Moroccans, LGBT Jews and the police force, Amsterdam Pride offers fringe communities within the LGBT whole open representation, casting a light on countries and cultures where repression is still the law. There is no doubt that the celebration still has a vital role to play – not only nationally, where (even here) intolerance is still a daily plight, but also as a model to the rest of the world. That message is broadcast loud and clear with this year’s theme: ‘Join Our Freedom’. ‘We’re showing what we’re proud of: our lack of censorship, our freedom. Be who you are!’ exclaims Thus. A truly Amsterdam motto, if ever there was one.

EUROPRIDE: FILM & CULTURE EuroPride’s programme is full of films, documentaries, exhibitions, plays and poetry events, but for many, the highlight of the fortnight will be the Homage to Marlene Dietrich Gala at the architectural landmark Tuschinski Theatre on 29 July. The audience will be whisked back in time to an era when Dietrich’s iconic smouldering stares seduced everyone they landed on. This is but one of EuroPride’s film events, which include documentaries and feature films at an open-air cinema on Nieuwmarkt throughout the festivities. If giggling is more your thing, Bianca del Rio (branded by The New York Times as ‘The Joan Rivers of the drag world’) is returning to Theater Amsterdam with her new comedy show ‘Not Today Satan’, sure to be ripe with her signature zinging one-liners. The trans community is also strongly represented throughout EuroPride with events ranging from ‘Transmission’, an exhibition of arresting and challenging photography at the Amsterdam Museum, to an open-mic poetry event. For the literary-inclined, 27 July is the chance to take a cruise and sip Champagne during the ‘pink authors’ meet-and-greet boat tour.

EUROPRIDE: CONFERENCES Like Ecclesiastes 3 says, ‘There is a time for everything.’ A time to dance, and a time to speak. EuroPride also delves into the more serious side of LGBT issues with a slew of academic events and conferences. The third European Bisexual Conference will take place over 28 and 29 July, with participants ranging from activists, researchers and healthcare professionals to artists, allies and partners of bisexuals. Workshops will span five topics: diversity, health, bi-phobia, representation and the aptly named ‘light & fluffy’ discussions about having fun and meeting new people. The TransPride International Forum on 2 August brings speakers from around the world together to share their experiences of being trans in their respective countries. And the Proud in Europe Conference on 4 and 5 August will trace the development of LGBTI politics throughout Europe from various perspectives and disciplines, encompassing the social and behavioural sciences, the humanities and the law.

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What of the recent reports of a rise in discrimination? Laurens Buijs, sociologist at the University of Amsterdam, explains these – at least in part – with a two-prong theory: ‘Tolerance has become part of the national myth, and it’s being instrumentalised by the right-wing party and the media. So nowadays you’ll hear a lot more about incidents between Muslim youths and gays because it serves the anti-immigration discourse. But it’s also because the LGBT arm of the Dutch police, the Roze in Blauw (‘Pink in Blue’), has done a fabulous job at fostering a trusting relationship with the community.’ Ellie Lust, representative of Roze in Blauw, agrees: ‘We have lowered the threshold of tolerance for discrimination, and victims now come to us to report even verbal attacks. This definitely affects the statistics.’


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PART I UP CLOSE

summer of love

' We take care of each other worldwide, because we face the same things ' Perched next to and jutting out onto the water from the square behind the Westerkerk, the three large pink granite triangles that form the ‘Homomonument’ have come to represent the visible centre of gay life in the capital. Designed by Karin Daan in 1987, inspired by the pink triangles gay men were forced to wear in WWII concentration camps, the monument symbolises the long road towards gay emancipation in the Netherlands and abroad. It is at this structure that crowds gather on Remembrance Day to commemorate all those who have been persecuted or murdered for their sexual orientation, including those killed by the Nazis, and the victims of the Orlando shooting at Club Pulse. One of the triangles is engraved with a line from a poem by Dutch Jewish gay poet Jacob Israel de Haan: ‘Such an endless desire for friendship’.

© LILY HEATON

HOMOMONUMENT

THE COC Formed in 1946, in spite of (or perhaps in response to) Nazi occupiers repealing the tolerance delivered by the Napoleonic Code in 1811, COC has been advocating for LGBTIQ rights (the less familiar I and Q standing for ‘intersex’ and ‘questioning’) and pushing for the decriminalisation of sexual orientation in the Netherlands and around the world. They support coalitions between straight and LGBT people to ignite change from within communities and unite against ignorance, discrimination and intolerance. COC is particularly prominent in the field of education; their volunteers give a total of 1,500 annual talks in schools across the country in an effort to improve acceptance and reduce stigma. Their Gay & Lesbian Switchboard (reachable by phone, email or chat) offers a free, unbiased and confidential helpline. www.coc.nl

EUROPRIDE: THE DRAG OLYMPICS On 5 August, the Homomonument will also be the stage for the Drag Olympics, the uproarious sporting extravaganza that includes such athletic competitions as the Handbag Toss, the Stiletto Sprint, Bitch VolleyBall, a Tango dance-off and a Hula Hoop contest. Competitors flock from all over the world with their fabulous wigs and attires, hoping to take the gold medal home – and to have their name become the year's ‘Olympic burger‘ on famous gay hotspot Getto's menu. Performances by the crème de la crème of the Dutch drag world complete the event, which begins with the ceremonial lighting of the Olympic flame by Miss Jennifer Hopelezz. If you ask us, these sports should unquestionably be added to the real Olympics. www.dragqueenolympics.nl


17 ERWIN OLAF: FIGHTING FIRE WITH KISSES Olaf is best known around the world for his ‘shock photography’ of emotional intimacy and, yes, nudity. So nobody flinches when he offers his perspective on Orlando, the day after a 29-year-old man turned a gay nightclub into a hellscape of death and destruction: ‘Listen, if you’re having good sex and have a nice social life, you never think of walking into a nightclub and emptying a magazine on a bunch of people. You don’t worry yourself with other people’s sex lives.’ He’s grateful for being born Dutch, noting that ‘there are few countries where, as a gay man, the law is so much on your side’, but he laments that things have changed here, too, since Amsterdam’s wild ‘90s. ‘There are cultural clashes between progressive groups and others who think it’s all moving a little too fast.’ These days, boyfriends linking arms on the Kinkerstraat can lead to harassment from teens on scooters. A few years ago, Olaf himself was asked by a snack bar on the Hugo de Grootplein to take his cuddling with his boyfriend elsewhere. Two days later, a hundred protestors filled the sidewalk in front of that snack bar with same-sex make-out sessions. Olaf shrugs, ‘You need to keep conquering the street.’ But you won’t see him dancing on the EuroPride boats this August. ‘I’m someone who would rather watch from the sidelines. I’d rather be the instigator, the voyeur, than take part myself.’ A voyeur with a camera, of course. www.erwinolaf.com

TEXT: STIJN AERDEN AND ELYSIA BRENNER PHOTO: PEGGY KUIPER | CAKE FILM & PHOTOGRAPHY VIA PHENSTER 3D VISUALISATION: MORITZ KERKMANN STYLING: PASCAL-JOËL WEBER | ANGELIQUE HOORN MANAGEMENT HAIR/MAKE-UP: YOKAW PAT | ANGELIQUE HOORN MANAGEMENT (SWEATER H&M, CAMEL COAT FILIPPA K)


Emile Schuffenecker (1851 - 1934) Man with a Pipe (detail) (after Van Gogh’s Self-Portrait),ca. 1892-1900, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation)

S R : OU R H E 15.07.2016_25.09.2016 M G M IN U S EN Book online. Skip the line. IS OP H T D E D N E T Van Gogh engages you. X E


jul & aug 2016

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ENTERTAINMENT

I’M NOT UGLY ENOUGH TO BE THE HAG, BUT I’M NOT PRETTY ENOUGH TO BE THE POPULAR GIRL, SO IT’S LIKE, “WELL, SHIT, WHAT DO WE DO?”

Kate Berlant on defining herself as a female comedian

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SUMMER FESTIVALS URBAN BEACHES ULTIMATE PICNIC GUIDE OPEN AIR MUSEUMS THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS FILM NIGHTLIFE ESSENTIALS MILKSHAKE FESTIVAL Clubbing masters Paradiso and AIR collaborate to throw this fabulous, anything-goes dance-music festival that brings all the boys and the girls – and everybody else – to the Westerpark. Honouring tolerance, liberalism and diversity is at the forefront of this groove- and love-loving festival, which also boasts a stellar and eclectic line-up. This year’s includes Canadian electro veteran Tiga, Larry Tee (who coined the term ‘electroclash’ back in the day), and Italo-disco sensation Fred Ventura, among many other big international names and a host of local DJ talent. Festivalgoers embrace the rainbow side of life, dressing to excess and to impress. 30-31 JULY Westerpark www.milkshakefestival.com

On the more folksy and bucolic side of summer, the Amsterdam Woods Festival pitches its three stages under the green canopy of the Amsterdamse Bos for two days of indie, pop, rock and singer-songwriter concerts. The line-up includes Sticky Fingers, Jeremy Loops and My Baby. Bring your Big Boy or hammock and relax among the trees while enjoying not only the tunes but also the festival’s many culinary delights and music documentary screenings. 26-27 AUGUST Amsterdamse Bos www.amsterdamwoods.nl

© NAOMI VAN HECK

AMSTERDAM WOODS FESTIVAL


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summer festivals

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Feast on summer festivals

 

Each year, Amsterdam hosts an extraordinarily diverse range of festivals, catering to all types from hardcore electro fans and opera aficionados to foodies and stand-up enthusiasts.

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© HOFFOTO

text Catalina Iorga

NATASHA LEGGERO

DE PARADE 12-28 AUG Performance prices vary Martin Luther King Park www.deparade.nl

COMEDYTRAIN ISF 13-30 JUL Tickets between €14 and €18.50 Toomler, Breitnerstraat 2 www.comedytrain.nl

PITCH 1 & 2 JUL Festival passes €45-€80 Westergasfabriek, Polonceaukade 27 www.pitchfestival.nl

DE PARADE For the 26th year running, performing-arts festival Parade kicks off in Rotterdam and travels through The Hague and Utrecht before its usual grand closing in Amsterdam. There will be many theatre, dance and music performances – about 10 of which are also accessible to English speakers – on the banks of the Amstel River, in the Martin Luther King Park. The tempting food stands on site offer fare like chilled glasses of sangria and juicy burgers. Also,

don’t miss the festival’s first travelling museum. For its inaugural exhibit, De Parade collaborated with the Rotterdam-based Netherlands Photo Museum on a multimedia incursion into the late Ed van der Elsken’s first colour book, Eye Love You. A result of the largest photo-restoration project in Dutch history, the show sheds new light on Van der Elsken’s ability to find universal themes, such as love, life and death, in his intimate and autobiographical perspective on the liberating '70s.

COMEDYTRAIN INTERNATIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL Each summer, Toomler, the first (and arguably finest) comedy club in the country, brings English-speaking comedians to Amsterdam during its Comedytrain International Summer Festival. This year, four eclectic duos take the stage for four consecutive nights (Wed to Sat). Kicking off the festivities are British award-winning newcomer Nathan Caton and irreverent Canadian veteran Pete


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© ESTHER-LAGENDIJK

festival highlights TREK

UITMARKT

KETI KOTI

OVER 'T IJ

TREK FOOD TRUCK FESTIVAL This travelling foodie festival has been around for just two years, but is already drawing in the big crowds: more than 260,000 gourmands popped by for a bite last year. A dozen mobile kitchens turning the Amstel Park into a cosy outdoor restaurant. Enjoy three days of countless delicacies, and get your cultural groove on with live music and theatre. 14 -17 JUL Amstel Park www.festival-trek.nl

UITMARKT End your summer festival tour de force with this completely free, totally huge three-day celebration of Dutch music, art, theatre, dance, opera and literature. Uitmarkt serves as the official opener of the country’s new cultural season, and it goes big every time: in 2015, more than 2,000 artists put on nearly 300 shows at about 30 venues across the city. A few dozen performances are ‘Language No Problem’, so check online for a full list. 26-28 AUG Various locations www.uitmarkt.nl

© DE FOTOMEISJES

KETI KOTI

Johansson, followed by the sing-songy ramblings of another Brit, Pat Cahill, and the surrealist theatrics of Australian comedian Sam Simmons. Up next is the family affair of American newlyweds Natasha Leggero, an accomplished actor, writer and stand-up performer and Moshe Kasher, a master of dark observational comedy. For the grand closing, check out Andrew Schulz of MTV and Brilliant Idiots podcast fame, joined by improv comic Kate Berlant, a pioneer of experimental stand-up.

PITCH Ready to welcome more than 4,000 visitors for its sixth edition, Pitch sets itself apart from the city’s many electronic summer offerings through its spectacular location: the Westergasfabriek Cultural Park. Once an abandoned gasworks with a highly toxic soil, it has been, since 2004, a green oasis filled with re-purposed industrial venues that now house bars, restaurants and cinemas. Pitch will be taking over two of these national monuments: the Gash-

ouder – a behemoth, circular former gas container – and the Transformatorhuis – once a water-gas plant and then electricity relay station, with elegant high ceiling and arched narrow windows. Oh, and PITCH’s adventurous line-up is nothing to scoff at, with headliners hailing from the US (legendary hip-hop instrumentalist DJ Shadow and genre-bending electronica darling Santigold), Canada (art-pop’s most ethereal it girl Grimes) and Belgium (electro-house veterans Soulwax).

Surinamese for ‘Broken Chains’, this yearly festival commemorates the 1863 abolition of slavery in the Dutch Antilles and Suriname. It also celebrates the cultural heritage of the city’s Surinamese community through food, music, dance, a Caribbean market and exhibitions. Start by following the Bigi Spikiri parade as it heads to the Oosterpark, where Julian Marley & The Uprising will be the main act, following a concert by homegrown talent. 1 JUL Oosterpark www.ketikotiamsterdam.nl

OVER HET IJ To reach this free, quirky celebration of new theatre talent, hop on the ferry to the city’s northern side and alight at the post-industrial NDSM Wharf. Although a few shows will be in Dutch, many are accessible to English speakers. Don’t miss the oddly thrilling experience of squeezing into shipping containers for intimate and inspiring performances from theatre school students and alumni. 8 & 17 JUL NDSM Werf, TT Neveritaweg www.overhetij.nl


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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

summer festivals JULIDANS For dance lovers, this contemporary dance festival needs little introduction. But if you’re new to daring, cutting-edge choreographies, Julidans is the perfect place to start. Embark on eleven days of groundbreaking performances from homegrown and international talents, hosted by seven different venues, ranging from the imposing Great Hall of the Stadsschouwburg to the tree-framed open-air stage of the Vondelpark. The festival’s 26th edition will also include two world premieres, Belgian group Voetvolk’s ‘We're pretty fuckin‘ far from okay‘ and Dutch choreographer Jefta van Dinther’s ‘Protagonist‘. The former, which takes its title from Tarantino’s cult film Pulp Fiction, uses the breathing of its two performers as the cornerstone of its mash-up soundtrack. The latter is a multisensory exploration of the struggle to fit and belong, all amongst flashing lights, dark shadows and pumping techno beats. GRACHTENFESTIVAL Each year, the Grachtenfestival (literally ‘Canal Festival’) celebrates innovative classical music, framing it in the picture-perfect scenery of Amsterdam’s most iconic waterways and industrially chic venues. One such building, the Zuiveringshal West (or ‘West Refinery’) in the Westergasfabriek Cultural Park, will be hosting the festival’s highlight: Traviata Remixed, a contemporary interpretation of one of the world’s more frequently performed operas. Violetta is a hedonistic sex worker in this production of Dutch collective Operafront, who have previously served up acclaimed versions of La Bohème and Così Fan Tutte. Accompanying her adventures are a live DJ and the new arrangements of German composer Moritz Eggert. Many other performances by renowned soloists and ensembles are still to be announced, but you can count on them to be as spectacular as their backdrop. ROOTS OPEN AIR The wonderfully diverse Amsterdam Roots Festival, which starts at the end of June and brings talent from Latin America, Africa and Asia to the city’s finest pop venues, culminates in a free-for-all, one-day outdoor extravaganza traditionally held in the Oosterpark. And you’ll want to make a full day out of it because there’s something for everyone: Hyper kids in tow? Channel their energy into the Brazilian dance and African percussion workshops at the Kids Podium area. Urgent need to shake it off? Warm up with sexy salsa and bachata classes at the Dance Court and strut your stuff come evening to DJ Funky Bompa’s tropical beats. Fusion music fanatic? Then you'll love Urban Stage headliners such as Flavia Coelho. This Paris-based singer, who was raised in the favelas of Rio de Janeiro, concocted bossa muffin, an energetic mix of her Brazilian sonic roots, and Jamaican reggae and hip hop. You’ll find your fill of tropically oriented food, drinks and shopping, too.

JULIDANS, 30 JUN - 10 JUL Ticket prices vary Diverse locations www.julidans.nl GRACHTENFESTIVAL, 12-21 AUG Ticket prices vary Diverse locations www.grachtenfestival.nl ROOTS OPEN AIR, 3 JULI Free Oosterpark www.amsterdamroots.nl


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festival highlights SUMMER DANCE FOREVER

SUMMER DANCE FOREVER

MYSTERYLAND

DEKMANTEL

KWAKU

The title says all about this nineday dance epic that features anything from a roller-skate jam party in the Vondelpark to crew battles held at the city’s premier live music venue, Paradiso. Join reasonably priced workshops and masterclasses given by top talent – such as the legendary hip-hop master Henry ‘Link’ McMillan – in genres including jazz fusion, Afro-house and popping. 16-24 AUG Various locations and prices www.summerdanceforever.com

MYSTERYLAND

FESTIVAL GEAR Dutch weather is moody, so wear light, quick-drying layers and a small backpack with a change of clothes. Bring sunscreen and a hat, too, as the Northern rays have been known to suddenly pierce through the clouds and slowly roast carefree festivalgoers. Trendy sunnies are a must for nailing your hipster look, but don’t bring your finest if you’re planning to mosh with the best of ‘em. To avoid the greedy glances of many a pickpocket, leave your overpriced iPhone at home and grab disposable film cameras from HEMA instead. Nothing beats the thrill of subsequently discovering your shoot-from-the-hip skills. All drugs are a huge no-no. Your stash will be confiscated and you may get slapped with a hefty fine. While we’re on the subject of intoxication, go easy on the beers – sun and alcohol don’t mix well – and drink at least one glass of water per hour. If you’re feeling peckish, grab a bite at the onsite food stands. Don’t bother loading up on Albert Heijn crisps as outside nibbles are also verboten.

This trippy dance festival held in the Haarlemmermeer Bos – just 20km outside the city – will take you down the rabbit hole. Brace yourself for big electronic, house and hip-hop acts, culminating in a show by Diplo, one of the hottest producers around. What sets Mysteryland apart from the crowd, though, are its eclectically lit, monumental fairytale stages and art installations, as well as spoken word and theatre performances. 27-28 AUG Floriadeterrein, Hoofddorp www.mysteryland.nl

DEKMANTEL This electro festival from the eponymous record label and DJ collective will be taking over a lush and leafy patch of the Amsterdamse Bos and several top venues around town with a line-up including the Outdoor Museum of Fractals, Afrobeat pioneer Tony Allen and, naturally, the Dekmantel Soundystem. Hop aboard the free ferry for opening-night shows at the spectacular waterside EYE Film Museum and cultural hotspot the Tolhuistuin, Shell’s former science campus. 4-7 AUG Various venues www.dekmantelfestival.com

KWAKU This festival is named after the name given to sons of the Ashanti people of Ghana born on a Wednesday. 1 July 1863, when slavery was abolished in Suriname and the Dutch Antilles, also happened to be a Wednesday. Spread over four weekends in the Nelson Mandela Park, the celebration has evolved into a massive multicultural manifestation. 16 JUL-7 AUG Ticket prices vary. Nelson Mandela Park www.kwakufestival.nl


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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

urban beaches

From stone to sand Sous les pavés, la plage (beneath the pavement, the beach): rioting French students in 1968 had their priorities straight. So does Amsterdam with its breezy, beachy urban havens. text Catalina Iorga

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t is a truth universally acknowledged by Vitamin D-deficient Amsterdammers that, should the sun magically decide to make an appearance, one must drop everything, bike to the nearest terrace and bask in the unexpected warmth, cold biertje in one hand and selfie-making device in the other. But what if we told you there’s more to life than ridiculously good-looking canal-side hangouts? We’re taking you on a lightning tour of the city’s hidden beaches, sandy – or pebbly – urban oases complete with delicious food, large communal tables, comfy beanbags and a tolerable hipster industrial vibe. PLLEK Nowhere is this vibe stronger than NDSM Wharf, formerly the city’s largest shipyard and currently a creative breeding ground just a

15-minute ferry ride away from Amsterdam Central Station. As you glide across the IJ, pay close attention to the Silodam, a multicolored residential complex designed by Rotterdam-based starchitects MVRDV. A huge transformation of a dam and a silo, this 10-storey building is very much in the spirit of what awaits at the NDSM. Once arrived, duck into the eponymous hangar, where artists have established a number of art studios collectively dubbed Kunststad (‘Art City’) before making your way to Pllek, a trendy café-restaurant that is built from shipping containers and recycled materials. Congrats, you’ve reached your first urban beach. In front of Pllek lies a piece of pebbly paradise that is prime real estate during sunny days. Chill with a cold beer on a cozy beanbag as you enjoy a new view of old Amsterdam.


25 BLIJBURG From Central Station, you can also jump on tram 26 (the only tram line that accepts bikes) to the remote, bohemian sandy beach of Blijburg aan Zee. Amsterdam’s most easterly point, situated at the tip of the modern, man-made IJburg residential island, this beach comes with a club and café, open year-round and serving mostly organic dishes and wines. ‘Blij’ is Dutch for happy, which is exactly how you’ll be feeling as you take in the sweeping waterside views and jump in for a frosty yet delectable dip.

ROEST For a shorter trip, alight tram 26 at the Rietlandpark stop, a seven-minute walk away from Roest, the quintessential city beach, complete with a large hall hosting a bar and food market, as well as live music and sweaty club nights. Fittingly dubbed ‘rust’, this strategically rundown redbrick joint occupies the grounds of a historical cold-gas building. Plomp down on the sand or dangle your feet from atop one of the waterside benches. If you’re lucky, you might just catch a post-sunset boat ride back to the center from one of the many cheerful locals docking for drinks with a view. Or you could stay and dance the night away. After all, what’s a beach day without a banging party to seal the deal?


Every Saturday in June, July and August, ARTIS-Amsterdam Royal Zoo will be open until sunset. Well-known Dutch artists will be performing live in the Bandstand. Have a picnic in the grass, or have a pizza from the outdoor kitchen.. As dusk falls, visit the animal enclosures and discover their night-time rituals. Experience a unique evening in the green heart of Amsterdam.


PART II

jul & aug 2016

The ultimate picnic guide From grassy fields to riverside hideaways and a full-on forest, we’ve scouted the best places to spread your rug this summer. text Karin Engelbrecht

BEST FOR BARBECUES While most of the popular parks, such as Vondelpark and Westerpark, have only a few designated – and rammed – barbecue areas, barbecuing’s still freely allowed in Oosterpark. Before hitting the green, stop by nearby Dappermarkt, one of Amsterdam’s liveliest street markets, to stock up on meat, seafood and all the other essentials; or fill that basket with quality bread, cheese and wine at Eric’s Delicatessen (Beukenplein 16). FEAST WITH THE BEASTS Imagine picnicking in the shade of centuries-old trees surrounded by friends of the feathered and furry variety. It’s possible on Saturday nights at the Artis Royal Zoo, with a programme that could include puppet shows, dance workshops, scavenger hunts or guided tours. Pre-order a ready-made picnic basket (www.artis.nl) or bring your own. NATURE LOVER’S CHOICE The 1,000 hectare woodland expanse of the Amsterdamse Bos (‘Amsterdam Forest’) is a breathing space in every sense. Three times the size of New York’s Central Park, it sports a world-class waterway for rowing, various swimming pools and endless footpaths along which to inhale that fresh forest-floor finery. Fresh cheese, yoghurt and ice cream from the Ridammerhoeve organic goat farm (www.geitenboerderij.nl) will taste even better on a blanket. FOODIE’S PARADISE Pretty and petite Sarphatipark is situated mere minutes from bustling Albert Cuyp market. On Sundays, grab a pulled-pork sandwich, handmade Chinese dumplings or a couple of freshly shucked oysters at one of the Sunday markets instead, such as the Neighbourfood Market (www.neighbourfood.nl) or Sunday Market in Westerpark (www.sundaymarket.nl), or the Pure Markt traveling artisan market (www.puremarkt.nl). WATERPROOF PICNIC Take a plunge in verdant Flevopark, where you’ll find the heated Flevoparkbad swimming-pool as well as plenty of natural greenery, home to 19 protected animal species and oodles of avian activity. Also nestled within this leafy park is ‘t Nieuwe Diep, a distillery housed in a restored water-pumping station from 1880, which now pumps out artisan jenevers as well as typical Dutch bar snacks. LOCALS’ SECRET One green space you won’t find in any tourist guide is a grassy sliver sandwiched between the Berlage bridge and De Hoop rowing club on the banks of the river Amstel. The Weesperzijde’s mostly residential, so bring a bottle and blanket and pre-order the Borrelbox, a lovingly handmade parcel of nibbles, including crudites, smoky popcorn, various crackers and dips such as muhammara and anise labneh to be delivered straight to your picnic patch (www.borrelbox-amsterdam.nl).

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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Museums Without Walls

highlights

Make the most of the sunny summer days: the Amsterdam region counts plenty of museums without any bothersome roofs. text Elysia Brenner

KRÖLLER-MÜLLER MUSEUM Houtkampweg 6, Otterlo www.krollermuller.nl MARKEN www.iamsterdam.com/en/visiting/ areas/city-escapes/old-holland/ smalltown-harbours/marken MUSEUM ZONDER MUREN Transvaalbuurt www.museumzondermuren.com NIC JONK MUSEUM AND SCULPTURE GARDEN Haviksdijke 5, Grootschermer www.nicjonk.nl STREET ART MUSEUM AMSTERDAM Amsterdam Nieuw-West streetartmuseumamsterdam.com VAN EESTERENMUSEUM AMSTERDAM Burgemeester de Vlugtlaan 125 www.vaneesterenmuseum.nl VOLENDAM www.vvv-volendam.nl

© ANNE DIRKSE

ZAANSE SCHANS Schansend 7, Zaandam www.dezaanseschans.nl ZUIDERZEE MUSEUM Wierdijlk 12-22, Enkhuizen www.zuiderzeemuseum.nl

I

f you had been walking along the Zuiderzee (‘Southern Sea’) 300 years ago, shoes catching in the waterlogged ground, you’d pass by one quaint fishing village after another bustling with boat-based industry. Most are long gone, swallowed by spreading concrete kingdoms or dismantled all together. The sea drained to a series of lakes surrouding an entire new province. But what if there were a way to go back, just for a day? The best alternative to a time machine is the Zuiderzeemuseum, one hour north of Amsterdam, which features more than 130 houses from several centuries of the region’s history, saved from demolition and reconstructed in ‘neighbourhoods’ where you can play dress-up, try your hand at antique games, sample freshly smoked herring and learn such key Dutch phrases as Mag ik een touw maken? (‘May I make a rope?’).

There are also tastes of recreated history even closer to home, most notably in the equally reconstructed (if somewhat more commercial) Zaanse Schans ‘village’ with its metal works, distillery and tourable working windmills. If you prefer to skip the museum experience, Volendam and Marken are still real, operational villages where locals are game enough to dress up for the frequent tourists while selling their cheesy wares and photo opps. ART AND OPEN SKIES Not that your outdoor outings need to be historical: the more art-minded will find themselves at home in the Nic Jonk Sculpture Garden, amongst the fluid forms of the modern artist’s 30 bronze sculptures 40 minutes north of Amsterdam. Or better yet if slightly farther afield, wandering the Veluwe nature reserve’s 25-hectare Kröller-Müller Museum sculpture

garden, which features 160 works by Auguste Rodin and other greats. In Amsterdam itself, the Street Art Museum Amsterdam has turned Amsterdam’s NieuwWest into an outdoor gallery of colourful, paint-splashed urban modernism, with a tour to put it all in perspective. More tours, some by bike and boat, showcase how this new ‘hood came to be, and where it’s going, at the Van Eesterenmuseum. Amsterdam’s Oost side isn’t left out either, thanks to the Transvaal neighbourhood’s Museum Zonder Muren (literally, the ‘Museum Without Walls’), where exhibits on multicultural integration and a stand-out Nelson Mandela mural (this 'hood is named after South Africa) are supplemented with a virtual reality app. Whatever your favoured cultural flavour, if your definition of ‘happy’ is a room without a roof, Noord-Holland’s got you (un)covered.


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featured artist

don’t miss these

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

Fasten your napkins: dozens of food mobiles armed with paper plates are invading NDSM-terrein for a long weekend of foodie (and musical) heaven. From staple food-fair fare to more quirky options such as MILF (Man, I Love Fish!)'s incredible fish tacos, Stacks' gastroburgers (such as the sticky rib BBQ burger) and Le Bustro's artichoke vinaigrette and rotisserie pork, you'll need an arsenal of plastic forks to wage that war against your appetite.

© JANTIEN DE BOOD

‘I'm scared I'll Instagram the truth, but then delete because of low likes’

AMSTERDAM KOOKT

WHY TRAM 8 NO LONGER RUNS

Born: Santa Monica, California Talent: Improvisational comic prodigy Kate Berlant has been touted as ‘a comedian to watch’ by respectable media outlets such as Variety, Time Out LA and Comedy Central for a couple of years now, and it’s easy to understand why. While described as experimental (which always sounds a bit inaccessible), her high-energy, often absurd rants and stream-of-consciousness speeches are incredibly unique and entertaining. She’s performed at SXSW, the New York Comedy festival and San Francisco Sketchfest, amongst many others. She’s got a hand in every funny cookie jar at the moment: she’s also starring in a pilot for Comedy Central, touring with musicians, appearing in a Netflix series and was even commissioned by the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles to write material for their online channel. She spoke to Rookie in 2014: ‘My senior year, I was really bad at math – so bad that they wanted to put me in special ed classes. So I proposed an idea: “Everyone relax. Just don’t make me do math, and I’ll do an independent study in stand-up.”’ She attended NYU and studied the cultural anthropology of comedy and the history of women in comedy. She says, ‘Women are either hypersexualized or desexualized. I haven’t had to pick one. I have refused to pick one.’ 3-6 AUGUST Toomler www.toomler.nl

AMSTERDAM MAKER FESTIVAL An incredibly inspiring fair for the fans of crafts and technology, the Amsterdam Maker Festival’s educational spirit is especially geared towards the younger crowds, but the high level programme can be enjoyed by everyone who is awed by scientific discoveries and what man can achieve with the power of his mind and his hands. The previous editions were attended by renowned creators, scientists and entrepreneurs who love to work together on innovative and sustainable projects. A ton of hands-on fun for the whole family, the festival also offers entertainment and food for a whole weekend in the great hall of the Marineterrein.

© KENTA HASEGAWA

KATE BERLANT

The official City Storyteller of Amsterdam (a distinction he received in 2008), Karel Baracs is bringing to the stages of the Dutch Resistance Museum (on Sundays) and the Tobacco Theater (on Mondays) this incredible, poignant and, especially, true story of how the Dutch Resistance saved children during World War II. When Jewish families were separated from their kids by the Nazis to discourage escape from imprisonment, some courageous citizens decided to rise against the tides of persecution and planned a daring rescue. Baracs reveals during the last part of his tale the reasons why it has such personal significance for him.

4-7 AUGUST NDSM Werf, TT Neveritaweg 61 www.amsterdamkookt.nl

25 JULY-29 AUGUST, Various dates and locations www.thestorytellerofamsterdam.com

19-21 AUGUST Marineterrein www.amsterdammakerfestival.nl


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highlights

PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Robeco SummerNights

Big crowds and new formats text Elysia Brenner

Into the Woods

A bewitching run of open-air drama, music and dance text Jayne Robinson

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s a magical realm in folklore and fiction, forests have always held the power to stir a wide range of emotions. Shakespeare knew it, when he sent his characters into the woods to lose their identities away from the constraints of society. The Brothers Grimm found untold enchantment in the deep dark wood and, heck, even the teddy bears of the famous children's song favoured the forest as their preferred picnic spot. It’s this otherworldly allure that makes the Amsterdamse Bos the ideal setting for a unique open-air theatre that has been weaving its own magic on audiences since 1985. Nestled amidst the trees and surrounded by twinkling fairy lights, the amphitheatre-style arena hosts a range of open-air music performances and theatre productions every summer – and it’s hosting a variety of performers once again for another spellbinding season, running through September. As part of the celebrations of Shakespeare’s legacy, marking 400 years since his death, this summer’s big production is an enchanting circus-style

retelling of Romeo and Juliet. Produced in collaboration with the TENT Circustheater group, the adaptation tells the star-cross’d lovers’ sory through a dazzling spectacle of acrobatics, music and dance. The performance is in Dutch, but the visual elements of the show mean that it can be enjoyed by anyone, language skills aside. The Live at Amsterdamse Bos musical programme also brings a diverse line-up of singer-songwriters and pop acts into the woods for some memorable one-off gigs. Musical highlights for 2016 include Crowded House frontman Neil Finn (7 August), soul revivalists Sharon Jones & the Dap-Kings (28 August) and folk-punk singer Frank Turner with his band The Sleeping Souls (5 September). Get there early to enjoy dinner or drinks on the summer terrace of restaurant De Lastpost, or pre-order a picnic hamper for the full Amsterdamse Bostheater experience.

Various dates and times www.bostheater.nl

around the world to celebrate EuroPride (5 Aug). This year, the Concertgebouw will even literally tear apart their Great Hall, pulling out all the seats for two days (12-13 Aug) to try out totally new arrangements: a dose of nostalgia in the form of a ‘20s-style jazz club, a yoga concert led by two yogis and a guitarist accompanied by harpist Iris Kroes, a musical trip around Europe on a central stage and even a ‘laying-down concert’ of a keyboard work commissioned from Bach as a cure for insomnia – feel free to fall asleep. It wouldn’t be a festival without food and drink: in addition to backstage tours, just about every concert can start or end with two- or three-course meals or cocktail arrangements. Several of the biggest nights also end with DJ-fuelled dancing, ‘for a true festival feel’. 1 JULY-31 AUGUST Het Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 10 www.concertgebouw.nl/en/ robeco-summernights

© RONALD KNAPP

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very year we try to have a different flavour,’ says Anita Crowe, the programmer behind the Royal Concertgebouw’s Robeco SummerNights concert series, which features the orchestral compositions the concert hall is known for mixed with pop, jazz, electronic music and more. This year, no one knows exactly what will happen during the 1 July opening night: the collaboration between the electro-influenced Kyteman and classic Philharmonic Orchestras will be completely improvised. ‘There’s nothing written down on paper,’ Crowe promises. ‘Really, everything happens in the moment.’ This is but one of the 80+ unique experiences available over the two-month SummerNights programme. Old favourites such as the SummerNights at the Movies series, where film-score favourites from James Bond to Inception are brought to epic life by a full orchestra (15 Jul & 19 Aug), are joined by new events like a ‘rainbow’ of choruses from


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THE NEW AMSTERDAMMERS

Emir Belatoui came to Amsterdam 18 years ago so he could live openly as a gay man. His non-profit Secret Garden works tirelessly to support LGBT immigrants and refugees. text & photo Marie-Charlotte Pezé

'I have seen change in motion' 1. DID YOU MOVE TO AMSTERDAM BECAUSE OF ITS REPUTATION FOR TOLERANCE? Actually, no! My family moved to Paris from Algeria. They tried to force me into an arranged marriage, so I left without telling anyone – except for my younger brother. I had a friend here who promised me some professional opportunities, so that’s why I came. When that didn’t work out, I stayed – because after living in the closet for so many years, Amsterdam allowed me to finally accept and be myself. 2. DID YOU FINALLY COME OUT TO YOUR FAMILY? After three years of silence, I went back to Paris and explained why I could not marry a woman. It’s difficult to talk about homosexuality amongst Muslims because there is no positive vocabulary to express the concept – the word for ‘homosexual’ implies something pejorative. But my mother said, 'As long as you're happy, I am happy too'.

3. HOW DID YOU START YOUR WORK WITH THE LGBT COMMUNITY? One of the reasons why I became so comfortable with myself in Amsterdam is that I was very active in LGBT organisations. In 1998, I started a group dedicated to helping LGBT Muslims. There is a real struggle between cultural values and sexuality in that community. Through the years I have seen constructive change in motion: parents are more accepting, the gay scene is safer and more open, and people talk about it more freely – but it’s a painfully slow process. 4. WHAT IS SECRET GARDEN’S MISSION TODAY? Our original focus was on LGBT Muslims, but around 2010 we started receiving members of different origins – Sub-Saharan Africa, the Balkans, South America – so we opened our doors to all immigrant LGBTs. We have two goals: making homosexuality more acceptable in these various immigrant communities, and

helping refugees integrate. We work closely with the IND (the immigration office) to affect policy changes, such as opening safe centres for gay asylum seekers. In parallel, we have also developed a network of guest families to host LGBT refugees. 5. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF AMSTERDAM’S SPIRIT OF TOLERANCE? I’m not happy when I read the news, which often focuses on the negatives; and while the Dutch have made many legal strides, it’s not always so obvious in the reality of daily life, especially outside the centre of Amsterdam. But once you talk to individuals, things are different. People do what they can. Our host families, for example, also help their guests with job hunting, fundraising and social integration. I think there is a consciousness here that people come in many different shapes and forms, and that those differences are what makes you you.

6. WHERE DO YOU ENJOY HANGING OUT, AS A GAY MAN IN AMSTERDAM? Habibi Hana and Sultana, Amsterdam’s two gay Muslim bars, closed a few years ago. I like Downtown, a gay bar on Regulierdwarstraat that’s been around since I first arrived. Right now it’s run by a Pakistani couple and they’re very tolerant, which goes to show you. But I also love De Balie on Leidseplein; it’s not a gay hot- spot, but like many places in Amsterdam, it doesn’t care about your sexual identity. 7. DOES SECRET GARDEN HAVE SOMETHING SPECIAL PLANNED FOR EUROPRIDE? Unfortunately, we don’t have enough funds, as we rely solely on donations. But I’m happy EuroPride is coming to Amsterdam. It’s a great event that has united the LGBT community on a European level. Now the connection is bigger than ever. www.stichtingsecretgarden.nl


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PART II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

film

Taking you through Amsterdam’s movie scene, one event at a time

Under the stars

    

This summer, celebrate film in the open air.

© MARLISE STEENMAN

text Bregtje Schudel

EVERY TUESDAY Films with a View @ Pllek www.pllek.nl TWICE A MONTH EYE Films @ De Ceuvel www.deceuvel.nl 5-8 & 11-15 JULY IDFA by Night @ Pakhuis de Zwijger www.dezwijger.nl

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3-13 AUGUST Pluk de Nacht @ Het Stenen Hoofd www.plukdenacht.nl 5, 6, 12 & 13 AUGUST World Cinema Open Air @ Vondelpark Openluchttheater www.worldcinemaamsterdam.nl

19-21 AUGUST Bijlmerbios @ Kraaiennest wwww.facebook.com/bijlmerbios 24-27 AUGUST World Cinema Open Air @ Marie Heinekenplein www.worldcinemaamsterdam.nl EVERY SATURDAY, 30 JULY3 SEPTEMBER Ketelhuis Open Air www.ketelhuis.nl

t’s a yearly recurring predicament for any cinema lover: why would you sit inside a dark theatre when the night is balmy and beautiful? Thankfully, Amsterdam has some very nice open-air cinema options on offer. If there’s one open-air event you really shouldn’t miss, it’s Pluk de Nacht (’Seize the Night’), which has already been a fixture at the former harbour pier Het Stenen Hoofd for 13 years. The 11-day festival fuses its edgy arthouse film fare, most of which hasn’t been released in cinemas yet (and probably never will) with interesting art projects. There are free beach chairs, but the screenings tend to be busy, so come early or ‘adopt’ a beach chair online before you go for a small donation per screening. For a slightly more intimate (and more mainstream) atmosphere, visit one of the open-air

screenings near cultural venues, like the ongoing Films with a View program at Pllek at the NDSM Wharf. Every Tuesday night in July and August the shipping container/café/ urban-beach hotspot offers a diverse selection of arthouse movies and collaborations, from the solid Dutch thriller Plan C (with English subtitles!), dance documentary Pina and Oscar-nominee Timbuktu to Johnnie To’s musical Office and The Big Lebowski. Also in north, newish cultural hotspot De Ceuvel, built on a polluted brownfield near Disteldorp, offers the odd outdoor film in collaboration with the EYE Film Museum. Make sure to check for English subtitles on the website, though. Both venues offer headphones for €5 a pop. This July, Pakhuis de Zwijger will play host to a new edition of IDFA by Night, and arthouse cinema Ketelhuis will once

again screen a nice selection of crowd-pleasers from before 2012 on their 35mm projector. Another very welcome returning guest is World Cinema Open Air (part of World Cinema Amsterdam, 18-27 August) with screenings at the Vondelpark Openluchttheater and Marie Heinekenplein, this year with a special focus on films from Turkey. Last but not least, there’s the Bijlmerbios. After several reboots and transformations, Bijlmerbios finally seems to have set down roots beneath metro station Kraaiennest. For one weekend in August, Kraaiennest will be transformed into a sitting room, with films and food that reflect the local colour of the Bijlmer. Not all movies come with subtitles, so visit the Bijlmerbios page on Facebook before you go.


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highlight Our must-see film(-related) pick this issue…

The Red Turtle

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t was never his ambition to make a feature film, but when Japanese animation studio Ghibli invited Dutch short-animation director Michael Dudok de Wit to make an animated film with them (making him the first non-Japanese director to do so), it was an opportunity he just couldn’t pass up. ‘Ghibli is a studio I admire tremendously,’ says the director of the Oscar-winning animated short ‘Father and Daughter‘. ‘There’s so much sensitivity, so much wisdom in their movies. Getting this invitation was a great surprise, and honour.’ And thus the first baby steps were taken in the production of The Red Turtle, a beautifully crafted film – without dialogue – about a castaway who desperately wants to leave the deserted island he’s stranded on, but can’t. Of course, making a short movie isn’t the same as producing a feature-length one, Dudok de Wit can now attest. ‘The differences are great. In my short animations I do everything myself, but here, not one of the images in The Red Turtle is by my own hand – even if I did draw the templates. I started it, it has my style and my sensibility, but it really has been a team effort. I’m immensely proud of what it has become.’ Does this mean we can expect another animated Ghibli feature in the future? ‘It hasn’t come up yet’, Dudok de Wit confesses. ‘But, to be honest, I have been so focused on this movie that I haven’t really had time to think about my next step. I’ve loved working with such a tight-knit group of extremely talented people and I appreciate the fact that, with a feature film, you can really delve into your characters. But I also love the purity of animated shorts, the fact that they’re the creative product of one person. Either way, I’ll definitely keep on animating.’ 7 July release director Michael Dudok de Wit

nightlife essentials THE SHADOW OF A GUNMAN

The theatre group from Badhuistheater performs the first part of the 1923 Dublin Trilogy from Sean O' Casey: The Shadow of a Gunman. Set in 1920, during the Irish War of Independence, the play centres on the mistaken identity of a temporary tenant who is thought to be an IRA assassin – a reputation he is loath to correct when it helps him capture the heart of his lovely neighbour…until a city-wide curfew makes him revisit his now uncomfortable imaginary life. A masterful mix of comedy and tragedy. UNTIL 3 JULY Badhuistheater Boerhaaveplein 28 www.badhuistheater.nl

PRINSENGRACHT CONCERT

Every year, for one night only, a grand concert stage is built on the Prinsengracht, and tens of thousands of spectators revel in the magical, fairy-lit classical performances from the open-air tribunes, the streets and bridges, rented boats or their own balcony – or even the internet, as the event is livestreamed. Started in 1981 by Hans Duijf and Theo Inniger of Hotel Pulitzer, this wonderful but quite weather-dependent event has actually become the most watched classical music concert on television. 20 AUGUST Prinsengracht @ Rozenstraat www.prinsengrachtconcert.nl

ZOMERNACHT

De School, royal heir to the Trouw throne, is throwing us for a loop this summer by adding a pinch of spontaneity to their Always coming up with new ways to entertain Amsterdam- programming. From 1 July to mers, and always succeeding the end of August, they’ll be throwing these ZomerNachten quite brilliantly, the Wester(summer nights) without angasfabriek is now throwing free live concerts in various lo- nouncing the line-up until the last minute – but we can trust cations around the popular them to honour the quality of cultural park every Wednesparties we’ve grown accusday evening: at Pacific Parc, Pizza Pazzani, Raïnaraï or the tomed to by featuring their staple great DJs and musicians. Westergasterras. Emerging talents and well-known musi- Some will be disclosed a week early, some will remain a surcians are both on the menu, to be enjoyed with beer, burg- prise until the last minute, adding an enticing mystery to your ers or couscous – depending on the week’s location – and, dance-floor adventures. In their of course, the balmy Amster- own words, ‘The core will still be sound, smoke and stories.’ dam summer nights. To find out what’s going on EVERY WEDNESDAY keep an eye on their Snapchat Westergasfabriek posts @deschool. www.westergasfabriek.nl VARIOUS DATES AND TIMES Jan van Breemenstraat 1 ON THE ROOF www.deschoolamsterdam.nl The roof terrace of the Op Zeezand building in Noord has incredible views over the 22FEST IJ River and Central Station – Not a ‘nightlife’ event per se as the party starts right after the perfect location for this lunch, but an ‘essential’ one fifth edition of their series of nonetheless, 22Fest promises a fantastic ‘On The Roof’ jazz great line-up of up-and-coming concerts. This season’s protalents from all over the hipgramme includes tango trio hop, R&B and electro scenes in Escapada on 8 July, alternative hip-hop band Pink Oculus the bewitching setting of the Diemerbos. This year’s bill is on 22 July, a modern jazz quintet on 5 August and Afri- very diverse with such budding can jazz by Neco Novellas on sensations as Kyle Hall, Kornél 19 August – a great selection Kovács, Elias Mazian, MC Sevn Alias, Klyne and STUFF. The afof talents to suit every jazz ter party at Canvas promises to palate out there. be a wild ride too. VARIOUS DATES 22 JULY Op Zeezand Building Diemerbos Johan van Hasseltweg 39 www.22fest.nl www.on-the-roof.com

WESTERGASFABRIEK LIVE


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M US E U M PL EIN AMSTE RD AM

EXHIBITION: LAUGH NOW

EXHIBITION: GENIUS

Modern Contemporary Museum, Honthorststraat 20, Amsterdam. OPEN NOW! EVERYDAY 10.00 -18.00

mocomuseum.com


jul & aug 2016

PART III

EAT DRINK CHIC EXHIBITION: ROYAL Until July 3

2016

36 42 44 46 49 51

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: OUD-ZUID EATING OUT ON THE MENU PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE COLUMN

SECRET VILLAGE A hidden gem of Amsterdam, the bright and airy Room on the Roof of de Bijenkorf luxury department store regularly hosts rising-star artists who can use the creative space to bring their new project to fruition. Typographer and mural artist Job Wouters got inspired by the renovation of the escalators on the ground floor, and in only four days used the space on the top floor to build and paint an awe-inspiring 200m2 mosaic that covers up the gigantic security fence around the construction site. The result is a gargantuan and witty piece of art made of over 5,000 colourful tiles, which announces ‘work in progress’ in many different languages – a beautiful and unique ornament worthy of Amsterdam’s most prestigious shopping destination. www.secretvillage.amsterdam

'IT FEELS LIKE ITS OWN LOVELY VILLAGE, WITH REAL, FRIENDLY AMSTERDAM PEOPLE' Floor Groeneveld loves her tranquil, leafy neighbourhood of Oud-Zuid

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Neighbourhood watch

OUD-ZUID

MAXIME HEINSBROEK, 21 communications student

‘It’s not really for younger people; mostly I go there with my mom, who enjoys the cafés and shops. But it’s a really nice area to walk through.’

neighbourhood watch


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Just at the edge of the cultural heart of Amsterdam lies the posh neighbourhood of Oud-Zuid, with its ravishing villas and tranquil curving streets. text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé map Monique Wijbrands/SaltyStock

The charmed life

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othing will chase away the bourgeoisie as fast as the rank odour of a canal brimming with sewage and trash – and that’s exactly what happened in Amsterdam at the end of the 19th century, when the city centre couldn’t expand fast enough for the ever-increasing numbers of working class. Crammed houses, overcrowded streets and unsanitary conditions almost spelled the end of the city’s popularity with its wealthier population, which was fleeing en masse to Haarlem and Hilversum. That simply wouldn’t do, decided city officials who were distraught not only at the depreciation of Amsterdam’s reputation, but also at the loss of significant tax income. The plan to create an exclusive neighbourhood for the upper class was quickly put in motion, and, in 1881, 25 hectares of boggy land at the southernmost edge of the city, close to the municipality of New Amstel and bordering Vondelpark, were dedicated to the construction of Willemspark. Named after King Willem III, the new district was designed as a collection of peaceful leafy streets to gently follow the curves of Vondelpark, an enchanting backyard

at a time when most of the vast green space was reserved for the exclusive use of the neighbouring residents, with a private gate on Koningslaan. The stately mansions with sprawling gardens and grand terraces still have views over the park’s ponds today, which, now that the park is open to the public, serve as a buffer from the bustle of the plebeian masses. Peaceful squares such as Emmaplein and Valeriusplein also dot the area, which locals have aptly nicknamed the reservaat (the reservation), a privileged abode that rests quietly a stone’s throw away from the commotion of busy Museumplein. WORLD-CLASS CULTURE The grand cultural institutions still responsible for Amsterdam’s international fame today sprouted just a couple of years later a few blocks east of Willemspark. Museumplein – and its vast manicured lawn, a perfect spot for a summer picnic between museum visits – is presided over by the iconic Rijksmuseum, the repository of Dutch culture since 1885. Entirely renovated in 2013, it offers a splendid and arresting journey through 800 years of national

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neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

Locals have aptly nicknamed the privileged abode the reservaat: the reservation art and history, with more than 30 of its 80 galleries devoted to the Golden Age. This summer, its new garden is hosting an exhibition of Giuseppe Penone’s famous bronze tree sculptures, which beautifully and poignantly evoke man’s tampering with the power of nature. To the west, bordered by a street of jewellers and diamond cutters, lies the Van Gogh Museum with its brand-new entrance building and monumental collection of works by the misunderstood ear-lopping artist. Next door, the Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art flaunts its updated design, which brilliantly manages the feat of mixing the classical architecture of the original 1895 building with a new wing in the shape of a giant bathtub without being a nightmarish eyesore. Its restaurant boasts a large terrace where sunny days call for some people watching while enjoying their scrumptious BLTs and a tall glass of fresh orange juice. Between Museumplein and the entrance to the reservaat lies the 128-year-old Royal Concertgebouw, still regarded as one of the greatest concert halls in the world thanks to its remarkable acoustics, but which is thankfully not above offering the treat of free lunchtime concerts on Wednesdays. As the Oud-Zuid grew and spread, this rich cultural heritage was honoured by naming more than 70 new streets after composers: some world famous, such as Beethoven, Chopin and Schubert, and others local Dutch musicians who nonetheless have had a tremendous influence on music over the past five centuries. It remains today the most vied-for and most expensive residential area in the city: ‘It feels like its own lovely village,’ says resident

MOCO MUSEUM This brand new museum for modern and contemporary art, gracing Museumplein since early April, showcases an unprecedented collection of original Banksy artwork. The permanent exhibition features 90 paintings by the secretive street artist whose activism has resonated (and adorned façades) worldwide. To celebrate the opening of the museum, owners Lionel and Kim Logchies also regale visitors with a temporary showcase of another revolutionary artist who has made a profound mark on pop culture: Andy Warhol. Housed in the beautiful, historical setting of the Alsberg Townhouse, this is one new art institution we're happy to welcome to the city.

Honthorststraat 20 www.mocomuseum.com

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CONSERVATORIUM HOTEL A former music conservatory, this luxurious hotel with a Neo-Gothic façade and a grandiose glass atrium boasts loft bedrooms and rainfall showers – but also a glamourous selection of shops to fulfil visitors’ pampering fantasies, such as Skins Cosmetics or cigar-aficionado paradise La Casa del Habano. The Brasserie & Lounge serves a Royal Afternoon Tea, and sushi palace Taiko is world renowned.

Van Baerlestraat 27 www.conservatoriumhotel.com


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 

SEAFOOD BAR

‘T BLAUWE THEEHUIS

The Seafood Bar’s varied fare is invariably super fresh, featuring seasonal catches, and (most importantly) really, really tasty. With staples like lobster soup and fish nuggets as well as more elaborate dishes like white-wine vongole and garlic scampi, the Van Baerlestraat fishy favourite with a pleasant street-side terrace also takes detours towards Asia with butter-soft sashimis and perfectly crispy tempuras.

In the enchanting setting of the Vondelpark, partly hidden behind the frilly shade of centenarian horse-chestnut trees, the wide, 700-seat terrace of the 'Blue Teahouse' is the perfect haven to enjoy a glass of orange juice (or wine) after a long bike ride around the park’s trails. Designed in 1937 by the Baanders brothers, the peculiar, round-shaped café trimmed in a dreamy blue offers fresh snacks all day.

Van Baerlestraat 5 www.theseafoodbar.nl

Vondelpark 5 www.blauwetheehuis.nl


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neighbourhood watch

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

RESTAURANT BLAUW Restaurant Blauw ('Blue'), funnily enough, actually sports red walls – and a giant vintage family photo that prominently spells out the origin of the cuisine: Blauw is renowned for its outstanding modern Indonesian cuisine. There are few places in town that serve such a luscious and extensive rijsttafel, a feast of rice accompanied by a collection of spicy, saucy side dishes (of various meats, fishes and vegetables). Chef Agus Hermawan is especially hailed for his delicious saté sauce. Amstelveenseweg 158-160 www.restaurantblauw.nl

DASGAAF If you’ve just moved in and are at a total loss for inspiration, DasGaaf’s charming little shop on the western end of the Oud-Zuid will fix that in a jiffy. Specialised in art and vintage, owner Ellen Plessius-Walter’s collection will woo you with bold colour paintings and assorted furniture from the '50s to the '70s. Lamps, vases and crockery and other home gadgets add the finishing touches to her design selection with a Danish flair. Koninginneweg 220 www.facebook.com/dasgaaf

GEORGE W.P.A. A bit on the posh side, but what’s wrong with some TLC and people watching on a sprawling terrace in the middle of Amsterdam’s most select neighbourhood? From 11:00 to 23:00, their can’t-miss menu of classic staples (no other café has such an extensive selection of club sandwiches) has a delicious something for every palate, from wafer-thin pizza and grilled steak to lush salads and roasted vegetables – and even duck confit. The drink list is just as fancy and comprehensive, and they now also boast a deli shop for a sweet treat on the go. Willemsparkweg 74 www.cafegeorge.nl/george-wpa

SALON HELEEN HULSMANN A veritable Ali Baba’s cave of second-hand designer fashion (and just as well hidden), Salon Heleen Hulsman carries only the most carefully hand-picked clothing, shoes and accessories from couture collections from the past three years. Among their racks of unique, prized and beautiful items you’ll find a great selection of Stella McCartney scarves, Saint Laurent sneakers, Missoni dresses – and much, much more, from the most elegant to the quirky. De Lairessestraat 13B www.salonheleenhulsmann.nl


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Floor Groeneveld. ‘There may be a couple of more…pretentious streets, but mostly it’s just real, friendly Amsterdam people.’

FLOOR GROENEVELD, 28 fashion designer at Nikki

‘It feels like its own lovely village. There may be a couple of more… pretentious streets, like the PC Hooftsraat, but mostly it’s just real, friendly Amsterdam people.’

KOEN SPEE, 29 lawyer

‘I’m sure people imagine that the Oud-Zuid is pretentious and snobby, but it’s not true. It’s wealthier than other areas, yes, but it’s especially calm, beautiful and central. It’s the perfect place to raise my 9-month-old baby.’

ZUIDERZIEL You can tell owner Paula van der Heijdt is a graphic designer: this little gift and home décor shop’s atmosphere is as enchanting and beautiful as its wares, and you'll only wish it was bigger so you could get lost among the rare exotic plants, delicate vases and colourful flower pots. Her passion for travel and earthy materials translates into a selection of treasures that includes beguiling peacock paperweights, ethnic jewellery, pressed feathers, beautiful framed prints and an impressive collection of Buddhas. Roelof Haartstraat 18 www.zuiderziel.nl

HAUTE COUTURE CENTRAL That privileged atmosphere spread its wings all the way to the PC Hooftstraat, Amsterdam's most high-end shopping destination, located at the northeastern end of Vondelpark. But while the Willemspark area harbours a myriad of swanky – but not stuffy – restaurants (such as Ron’s Gastro Bar by Michelin-starred chef Ron Blauw), airy cafés and quaint independent boutiques (like the fashion-fantasy-rich Silk), showy PC Hooftstraat is lined with haute couture boutiques such as Prada, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, which rub elbows with the latest in exclusive labels: 7 for All Mankind, SuperTrash, Agent Provocateur, etc. There is no better place to

get your hands on a pair of Jimmy Choos or a Cartier watch, but as one of the most famous shopping destinations in the Netherlands, the PC Hooftstraat is congested by throngs of local and international shoppers alike, and sometimes struggles to keep the right balance between old-world class and new-money bling. The Dutch like to mock the SUVs with tinted windows that park along the street by calling them ‘PC Hooft tractors’ (Pieter Corneliszoon Hooft, the 17th-century poet after whom the street is named, must be turning in his grave). For all this luxury, though, the Oud-Zuid is not a world apart, or a circus of snobbery. ‘It’s a lovely area to walk through,’ agrees Maxime Heinsbroek. It's entrancingly elegant in the most approachable way, with its pretty gabled façades, bijou balconies and tree-lined serenity – a true ode to the discreet charm of the bourgeoisie.

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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

EATING OUT

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers

text Karin Engelbrecht

THIJS

Prinsengracht 438 www.thijsbydikkerenthijs.nl

NEW

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Named for Henri Thijs, a Dutch hospitality pioneer and student of Escoffier, who co-founded the famous Amsterdam restaurant and delicatessen known as Dikker & Thijs some 100 years ago, this latest incarnation of the restaurant (re)opened in May. Gone are the stiff white tablecloths and fussy formality; instead, there’s an eager young team, aiming-for-hipster décor – think blackboards, bare bulbs and faux-face brick wallpaper (!) – and a menu of modern (mostly French) classics. Indeed, the basement restaurant is best at playing the familiar hits from French bistro fare, such as a standout onion soup, which is rich and cheesy, but not oily (€7.50), and the house speciality of delicately crisp-edged sweetbreads served with snow peas, carrots and Roseval potatoes (€23.50). Also on the menu: steak tartare, salade Niçoise, bavette steak and crème brûlée. Long before there were supermarkets, the old delicatessen was the sole place in the city that stocked fresh pineapple, kiwi, caviar and live lobster. The reinvented restaurant aims to continue this tradition of introducing new products to the public with fair-chain Moyee coffee, Café Couture teas and Dutch distillates such as John Tony’s, Bobby’s Gin, VL92 Gin and Jonnie Boer’s Gastrogin.

eating out

   


43 trendy HAPPYHAPPYJOYJOY EAST Celebrity chef Julius Jaspers takes familiar formats and flavours from the pan-Asian playbook, such as Peking duck baos (€5.50) and five-spiced pork belly (€7), and presents them in a contemporary China-red setting designed by it agency Concrete, with a ceiling populated by paper umbrellas and playful print-covered walls. There are various Asian drinks on offer too, but do try the refreshing house beer HopHop (€5.50), laced with lemongrass, ginger and cinnamon.

Oostelijke Handelskade 4 Other location: Bilderdijkstraat 158HS www.happyhappyjoyjoy.asia

critic’s choice GRAHAM’S KITCHEN

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e’ve admired chef-owner Graham Mee since his Michelin-starred Le Restaurant days, but enjoyed his clever creations even more in the casual setting of his new restaurant. Recently, we sampled the Liverpudlian chef ’s signature savoury macarons – soya, this time – in a salmon-beet amuse. A starter of tuna tartare and -sashimi was punctuated with ponzu, green apple, enoki mushrooms and an iodiny algae crisp. Guineafowl with pearl barley, king oyster mushroom, white asparagus and katenspek (a variety of Dutch smoked bacon) was a highlight. And, dessert was a near-perfect interplay of berries and rose, with crème brûlée and wood calamint ice cream, a revelation of herbal mintiness. A threecourse menu starts at €38.

Hemonystraat 38 www.grahamskitchen.amsterdam

classic NAM KEE

quick & simple ROTISSERIE EAST Crisp-skinned rotisserie chicken (€8.50 for half a freerange bird) may be the signature dish here, but sticky ribs and some of the city’s best burgers are on offer, too. With corrugated steel and polished concrete walls, trendy tiles and plenty of leather and wood throughout , the décor’s predictably Billyburg, but the easy attitude’s all Amsterdam.

Beukenplein 17 Other location: De Clercqstraat 81 www.rotisserieamsterdam.nl

Head to Europe’s oldest Chinatown for the classic Cantonese kitchen. Nam Kee’s furniture may be drab but its flavours are so bright that this Amsterdam landmark was named Best Chinese Restaurant in the Netherlands in 2013 (and ranked 3rd in 2014) by trade magazine HorecaVizier. In fact, the tried-and-true oysters in black bean sauce (€5.60 for 2) have achieved such a cult-like status that there’s even a film and a book bearing their name, De Oesters van Nam Kee. The ha kau, those translucent traditional shrimp dumplings served with a hot housemade chilli sauce, are especially good here, as is the popular Peking duck (€6.00 for 3).

Geldersekade 117 Other locations: Zeedijk 111-113, Marie Heinekenplein 4 www.namkee.net


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PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

ON THE MENU

Three of a kind to suit every taste text Karin Engelbrecht

ice cream bars

best terraces

summer festivals

MONTE PELMO

MERKELBACH

Whoever said ‘laughter is the best medicine’ clearly hasn’t had a creamy cup from this Jordaan-based artisan ice-cream factory’s tiny storefront. They come in interesting flavours like liquorice, stroopwafel, oreo and limoncello and superb sorbets such as watermelon, orange-coriander and blood orange-Campari.

Situated in the former coach house of the stately Huize Frankendael, a national monument and Amsterdam’s last manorial estate, this restaurant’s pretty patio overlooks manicured gardens and leafy parklands. Chef Geert Burema’s love of local shines through in dishes featuring Dutch-heritage products such as Aged artisan Gouda, Amsterdam Ossenworst and Limburgian apple syrup.

OEDIPUS INTERNATIONAL BEER FESTIVAL

2e Anjeliersdwarsstraat 17 www.montepelmo.nl

IJSMANSCHAP What the Netherlands’ first artisan popsicle bar lacks in location, it makes up for in flavour. The dense handcrafted gelato on a stick comes in tastes such as Marsala-fig-fior di latte, chocolate-hazelnut and Vietnamese iced coffee (all €3.50). Or try the strawberry sorbetto (€3.00), which at only 84 calories means your diet needn’t be damned. All popsicles can be dipped in Callebaut chocolate and sprinkled with nuts. Van Spilbergenstraat 2 hs www.ijsmanschap.nl

VAN SOEST Trust a chocolatier to make the city’s best chocolate-dipped ice cream cones, a moreish match for gelato flavours such as salted caramel, Sicilian pistachio and raspberry-white chocolate. Of course, there are beautifully balanced sorbets, too. Open until 22:00 in the summer months. Utrechtsestraat 143 www.vansoest-amsterdam.nl

Middenweg 72 www.restaurantmerkelbach.nl

CAFÉ ‘T SMALLE Easily one of the city’s most Instagrammable cafés, the canal-side seating at this floating terrace in the Jordaan is constantly coveted and quickly snapped up. Inside it’s pleasantly twee too, with a gleaming 18th-century brass jenever pump on the bar harkening back to the heady days when it was the Hoppe Distillery. Egelantiersgracht 12 www.t-smalle.nl

PLLEK This self-proclaimed ‘creative hang-out’ and organic restaurant has that slapdash charm that’s become a Noord trademark. Constructed from recycled shipping containers, there’s little more than a pebble beach, a few picnic tables and some benches constructed from old boats so that nothing gets in the way of the breathtaking panorama of the IJ and city-side. TT Neveritaweg 59 www.pllek.nl

This new beer festival, which takes place 2-3 July, boasts a line-up of 19 breweries from eight countries, including Beavertown Brewery (UK), Brouwerij Boon (Belgium), Lervig Aktiebryggeri (Norway) and Pohjala Brewery (Estonia). There’s also music by local artists and DJs and food from Brandt & Levie, The Beef Chief and Oh Na Mi Kimchi. Day ticket €20 Oedipus Brewery, Gedempt Hamerkanaal 85 www.oedipus.com/festival

TREK FOOD TRUCK FESTIVAL This travelling free food festival has its Amsterdam’s layover 14-17 July in Amstelpark, where foodies can sink their teeth into Indonesian saté, French galettes, Surinamese roti or Dutch poffertjes while enjoying live music and theatre performances. www.festival-trek.nl

VIVA LAS VEGA'S Dedicated to the vegetarian lifestyle, this newish festival hosted at foodie hotspot De Hallen on 23 and 24 July is all about plant-based delicacies. The feast doesn't stop at food trucks and stalls, as the event is also ripe with book signings, debates, and cooking workshops by reknowned vegetarian chefs. Bellamyplein www.vlvfoodfestival.nl

on the menu


45

HIP JENEVER Ginning up jenever

trendy square tin. Jajem’s Jenever’s zeitgeisty small-batch organic jonge jenever, enriched with elderflower, lemongrass and hibiscus, is not only distilled in Amsterdam, but gets its name from jenever’s old nickname. And East meets West in Bobby’s Gin, a modern blend of Indonesian spices and traditional Dutch botanicals, in a smoked glass bottle adorned with ikat patterns. KEVER GENEVER www.kevergenever.com JAJEM JENEVER www.jajem.amsterdam BOBBY’S GIN www.bobbysdrygin.com

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZE

S

ure, trend watchers tipped vermouth as this summer’s must-order tipple, but locals are still gravitating towards ginbased drinks. No surprise really, when you consider that local speciality jenever – still the most consumed hard liquor in the Netherlands – was the grandfather of modern gin. Until recently, this tipple with a 400-year tradition was the preserve of gray-haired patrons, but a new generation of Dutch jenever producers are determined to change all that. Kever Genever, the brainchild of two Amsterdam students, presents their smoothbodied artisan oude jenever in a


46

PART III EAT, DRINK & CHIC

pretty things

PRETTY THINGS Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card text Elisah Jacobs

FEST

>

NEW IN TOWN

The brand of Amsterdam-based Femke Furnee just opened a new store, just around the corner from the Albert Cuyp market. Bigger and brighter than the previous location near Museumplein, this new shop has more room devoted to the complete interior and accessory collection of FEST: from a velvet

loveseat and a stunning dark blue couch to softly coloured cushions, rugs and cute interior accessories. FEST works with designers from all over the world and even nabbed Kvadrat to work on a series of couches. Good to know: drop by on a Saturday and get free interior-decor advice. FEST also organises several temporary art and photography exhibitions, starting this sum-

mer with photographers Iris Duvekot and Cody Cobb. A real FESTive place in the Pijp!

ď ą

Van Woustraat 111 www.fest.amsterdam


47

perfect fit WON HUNDRED The Raadhuisstraat, just behind the Dam, may be the next best shopping street with new labels such as We Are Labels opening shops. That’s also where Danish brand Won Hundred found a spot for their new store. Explore the racks for the new Summer collection inspired by artist Wes Lang. You’ll find a mixture of typical Scandinavian minimalism, simple lines, a good fit and sportive items such a bomber jackets and sneakers. For men and women and via the online shop also for kids.

makeover

Raadhuisstraat 47 www.amatorcollection.com

SALON B Time for a new haircut? Drop by the newly renovated Salon B near the Vondelpark. After ten years it was time for a real makeover; more spacious and cosy, Salon B is now a stunning place divided into several thematic areas. Visit the Advice Zone to get tips & tricks on how to treat your hair, the Shine Zone to enjoy a wash, the Color Zone to pick your new colour, and the Style Zone to get that haircut you’ve always wanted. You won’t want to leave when your makeover is done; you'll be engrossed in your favourite magazine at the sturdy reading table or on the vintage chesterfield, sipping a cup of coffee served in vintage porcelain.

Willemsparkweg 30 Other location: Gravenstraat 22 www.salonb.nl

a girl's best friend TIFFANY & CO AT DE BIJENKORF Getting married? Lucky you! Or maybe you don’t need an excuse to spoil yourself with a new piece of classic jewellery. We were already fervent fans of the Tiffany’s & Co flagship store on the P.C. Hooftstraat, but the iconic brand has also opened up a new boutique in luxury department store De Bijenkorf. Find the world’s most famous and beautiful jewellery designs on the ground floor. Shop here for engagement rings, stunning bracelets, earrings and more, or simply marvel at the yellow diamonds: window shopping is allowed, too!

Dam 1 nl.tiffany.com

 


Yves Saint Laurent, French Voque, Rue Aubriot, Paris 1975 © Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography

Piet Kramer, drie kasten, 1918-ca. 1935, coll. Stedelijk Museum

amsterdammusea.org

Rembrandt van Rijn (1606-1669). Portret van Marten Soolmans en Oopjen Coppit, 1634.

MUSEUM TIPS

Marten & Oopjen Emile Schuffenecker, Man met pijp (naar Van Goghs Zelfportret), ca. 1892-1900, krijt op papier, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Stichting)

Rembrandt painted the marriage portraits of the newly-weds Marten Soolmans and Oopjen Coppit in Amsterdam in 1634. Rijksmuseum, 2 July until 2 October

Nachtwacht, Marie-José Jongerius

Helmut Newton – A retrospective

On The Verge of Insanity

The Ultimate Sailor

What illness did Vincent van Gogh suffer from? In what way did his illness have an effect on his work?

Four Dutch photographers reflect on the way stereotypical representations resonate in today’s conceptions of ‘the’ sailor.

Van Gogh Museum, 15 July until 25 Sept

Het Scheepvaartmuseum, until 29 September

The legendary and supremely influential Helmut Newton features over 200 photographs. Foam Museum, until 4 September

Visit these and many other museums for free with the I amsterdam City Card iamsterdam.com/citycard

SMALL ACCIDENT?

Don’t worry. We’re open.

422 0)20 +31 (

02 10

Pharmacy Leidsestraat 76 Open daily: 8.30 to 23.00


49

WHAT’S IN STORE Fashion-forward style – for your closets and the rest of your home

   

text Elisah Jacobs

GASSAN DIAMONDS

LADRESS

On 30 May the Choices by DL flagship store was officially reopened by Debora Huisman-Leeser, designer of the self-titled jewellery collection. The new advertising campaign was also presented, starring international supermodel Yfke Sturm as the face of the brand. The strength of the refreshing, unique and patented concept of Choices by DL lies in the accessibility of the collection, ensuring that the personal jewellery wardrobe in a box can be mixed and matched using an ingenious system. Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175 www.gassan.com

LOKAAL SPAANDERS Lokaal Spaanders is a concept store and coffee bar in one. Roos Burger and René Langendijk established it with the idea of serving and selling goods only made by local suppliers: design goodies, interior accessories and gifts for kids. New is Studio Spaanders, where you can rent a desk or find (during the weekend) various popup restaurants, theatre dinners, music workshops and photo exhibitions.

Zonneplein 18 www.lokaalspaanders.nl

INAUGURATION BAGS Iconic buildings in the city centre sported a red-white-and-blue ‘jacket’ during the inauguration of our King Willem-Alexander. They sadly disappeared after the big day, but luckily they have just returned to the racks: Marie Jose Hamers from Hamers op Maat and Anne Jongh from Jongh Label made bags of them, all handmade and unique. You’ll find these special ‘inauguration’ bags in the I amsterdam store in Amsterdam Central Station. Amsterdam CS IJ-hal www.iamsterdam.nl

EMPORIUM OF WONDERS It’s a real feast to shop at the Emporium of Wonders, which offers plenty of brands and vintage items. But there’s more to explore: what about booking a yoga class or a hand-reading session? Or just drop by to drink a steaming cup of coffee or tea and enjoy the relaxed vibe. The building is also home to The Oddity Shop, a little boutique full of beautiful treasures.

Javastraat 137 Other location: Zeedijk 37 www.facebook.com/emporiumofwonders

Owner Simone van Trojen started the LaDress brand with the idea to design the perfect dress for every occasion; not only for the workday, but also to flaunt on a night out. In addition to the online shop, LaDress also organises several popup boutiques around the country. It has now opened up its first boutique in the middle of the Nine Streets.

Runstraat 33 www.ladress.com

WAUW & LULU Friends Raëlli, Vanessa and Luca started this brand right after graduation. They design minimalistic, stylish and functional bags that last a lifetime, made from fine fair-trade leather produced in Portugal. Nice to know: Wauw & Lulu designs exclusive collections several times a year. For sale at byAMFI and via the online shop of Wauw & Lulu. Spui 23 (byAMFI) www.wauwandlulu.com

À LA It’s hard not to dream of tropical islands when looking at the collection of Amsterdam-based interior and accessory brand À La: beautiful interior décor, jewellery and fashion, all made by craftsmen in India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. The founding duo often travel to these faraway lands to design their own goodies. Everything is hand-made and handpicked. Shop here for jackets with pineapples and flamingos, kelim carpets, bracelets with crabs and turtles and even framed prayer bags made by Buddhist monks. Hasebroekstraat 12 www.a-la.nl

BRANDT & LEVIE SOAP Three friends from Amsterdam, Geert, Jiri and Samuel, travelled to Italy for internships with several sausage makers and brought their knowledge back to Amsterdam to begin their own sausage brand. Brand & Levie makes delicious sausages made from Dutch pigs with respect for animals and nature. But then, what to do with the remaining fat? Make soap, of course! Without the smell of bacon, but with lavender, bergamot, clove and coriander. www.brandtenlevie.nl


NOW Available in the I amsterdam Store Amsterdam CS, IJ-side #iamsterdamstore


PART III

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EAT, DRINK & CHIC

When in Amsterdam…

After two decades here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

HANDS FREE?

I Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

t’s common knowledge that driving while using smart phones is a legal (and common-sense) no-no. Here in the Netherlands, where the law explicitly prohibits driving any vehicle with a motor while holding a device that could be used for telecommunications – even if it’s off – the fine will set you back €230. But in a city where there are more bicycles than people, what about cycling while working your phone? It’s my current pet peeve: cycling down a busy city street with my daughters, only to come within inches of losing our lives by a texting teenager who thinks he’s the only one on the road. My ability to swear in Dutch has increased ten-fold because of these near mishaps. Unfortunately, my expletive creativity is wasted on deaf ears and distracted eyes. As smart phones become smarter, cyclists seem to be dumbing down, and the problem, say officials, only continues to grow. There is currently no statute on the books prohibiting this dangerous behaviour, estimated to play a part in some 20% of all cycling accidents among 12-24 year olds. That may be about to change: Minister of Infrastructure and the Environment Melanie Schultz van Haegen announced in May that she’s looking into passing legislation to prohibit the practice, a move welcomed by Amsterdam officials. There are other ways authorities have

tried to combat the use of phones while cycling. Police have the broad scope of the traffic penal code’s Article 5, which allows them to ticket anyone on the road who poses a danger to themselves or others. So if a cop happens to witness a car hitting the brakes to accommodate a smart phone-wielding cyclist, the offender can be fined. But it’s hard to prove. Schultz van Haegen’s Ministry, working with service providers and schools, has waged a two-year-long educational campaign on the dangers of texting and using distracting apps while cycling, hoping, in a very Dutch way, that kids would be kind enough to regulate themselves. Nice try. Although the campaign has met with some success, says her spokeswoman Marianne Wuite, even parents need some muscle behind their warnings. ‘The children say it’s not illegal. But if they risk a fine, it could prevent the behaviour.’ At least I’m not the only mother who can use some backup. As I stand on an Amsterdam sidewalk covertly snapping photos of said offenders to accompany this column, something bumps into me. A fashionably coiffed young woman looks up and politely begs my pardon. Before I can dispense absolution, she and her cell phone are already halfway down the street. Perhaps the new law will be expanded to include pedestrians.


610 1 Ju

Gerrit Rietveld Academie

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PART IV

THE

jul & aug 2016

53

FESTIVALS/MUSIC/ CLUBBING/EXHIBITIONS/ STAGE/SPORTS/FAMILY/ GAY & LESBIAN

>

For complete listings, see www.iamsterdam.com

TINARIWEN Mali desert blues outfit Tinariwen have helped bring their genre of guitar wizardry to the western world. Musically, the obscure time signatures mixed with the Jimi Hendrix-inspired riffing makes for an intriguing and psychedelic experience. In the political hotbed of northern Mali, depending on the party in power that day, the outfit and their peers may be targeted as the guitar is deemed a form of unruly expression and tool for revolution. As such, Tinariwen are true rock 'n' roll rebels and absolutely mesmerising live. 13 JULY Paradiso www.paradiso.nl


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PART IV THE A-LIST

FESTIVALS & EVENTS WESTWAARTS A collaboration between Podium Mozaïek and the Amsterdam district of West, this diverse cultural event provides MUSEUM MARKET a host of music, theatre, dance, This design market on Amcabaret and circus fun for the sterdam’s Museumplein offers entire family, with plenty of fashion, accessories, textiles, surprises thrown in along the homewares, jewellery, stationway! ary and much more, all by local 1, 2 & 3 Jul, Erasmuspark, designers. When you're done www.westwaarts.com. shopping, grab some food and JULIDANS enjoy some live music. 17 Jul & 21 Aug, Committed, daring and cutMuseumplein, ting-edge, Julidans offers nearwww.museummarket.nl. ly two weeks of ground-breaking dance performances from VONDELPARK OPEN AIR around the world. As well as THEATRE breathtaking dance talents in Steeped in musical and thea host of Dutch or world preatrical history, every summer mieres, you can also discover weekend Amsterdam’s famous the next generation of choreVondelpark presents a proographers and dancers at Julgramme packed with dance, idans NEXT. Check the Stage cabaret, jazz, children's thelistings for festival highlights. atre, stand-up comedy and all 30 Jun-10 Jul, various locagenres of music. tions, www.julidans.nl. Every Fri-Sun in Jul & Aug, KETI KOTI FESTIVAL Vondelpark Open Air Theatre, www.openluchttheater.nl. 1 July 1863 marked freedom for the Surinamese from slavFILMS WITH A VIEW ery, and nowhere is that more Promising programming that's celebrated than in Amsterdam, a mix between effortlessly mas- home to a thriving Surinamese terful cult classics, arthouse community and host to this gems and world cinema, snug- annual festival. Celebrate and gle up on a beanbag or with a commemorate this rich culture blanket and enjoy a movie in and its people through food, the open air. music, dance and ceremony! Every Tue in Jul & Aug, Pllek, 1 Jul, Oosterpark, www.pllek.nl. ww.ketikotiamsterdam.nl.

Choice festivals

AMSTERDAM ROOTS FESTIVAL This annual celebration of world and roots music brings a wide variety of international stars to Amsterdam, closing with a large music festival (Roots Open Air) in Oosterpark, in the east of the city, on 3 July. The indoor shows throughout the week require tickets and encapsulate a wide variety of music styles, while Roots Open Air is a spectacular global gathering with free entry for all! For the latter, be sure to go with an empty stomach as the food and drink treats on site are as irresistible as the tunes. 30 Jun-3 Jul, various locations, www.amsterdamroots.nl.

ARTIS ZOOMERAVONDEN ROBECO SUMMERNIGHTS On Saturday evenings An integral part of the city’s throughout summer, party summer cultural calendar, this animals in Artis gather extwo-month series never fails pectantly in their enclosures. to draw in the biggest names ZOOmeravonden (Summer from the classical, pop, jazz DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL Evenings) at Artis Royal Zoo and world music scenes. Check lets visitors learn what the an- out our classical and pop listWith lush forest, grassy meadimals get up to after hours by ings for the Robeco Summerows and plenty of areas to staying open until sunset every Nights highlights. chill out between sets, the Saturday in July and August. Jul-Aug, Royal ConcertgeAmsterdamse Bos makes a There’s plenty of activities for bouw, www.concertgebouw.nl/ sweet setting for this electronfamilies and also live music en/robeco-summernights. ic music festival that entertains performances for adult crowds. PITCH FESTIVAL Every Sat, Artis, with everything from banging www.artis.nl. Geared towards lovers of techno to ambient minimalintelligent electro music, this ism. This year the party also ON THE ROOF festival sprawls over all areas spills over into city venues like Summertime isn't just about of the Westergasfabriek. Big Melkweg, Muziekgebouw aan waterside terraces, but also names this year include Santi't IJ, the EYE Filmmuseum, Tolroof terraces. That's the pregold, Grimes, Soulwax and DJ huistuin and Bimhuis, ensuring cise specialty of the On the Shadow. Roof festival series in Am1 & 2 Jul, Westergasfabriek, one of the most captivating sterdam-Noord, showcasing a www.pitchfestival.nl. indoor/outdoor festival prowealth of jazz and world music grammes of the season. MERCEDES-BENZ acts atop a riverside business 4-7 Aug, various locations, FASHIONWEEK unit. www.dekmantelfestival.com AMSTERDAM Until 2 Sep, Op Zeezand, www.on-the-roof.com. The summer edition of this JAPIES HOF utterly fashionable festival feaadvert tures an industry programme On this summer's day the Jaap and a special ‘OFF SCHEDEden Ice Rink is taken over by ULE’ public programme that a festival of food, music and turns the city’s streets into a theatre. The event even has its catwalk and bars into glamown children's mini festival, 23 – 27 AUG orous parties, showcasing the where kids are welcome to SURTITLED IN ENGLISH finest in fresh European style. play, dance and go on adven1-11 Jul, various locations, tures all day long. www.fashionweek.nl. 2 Jul, Jaap Eden Ice Rink, www.japieshof.nl. SENSATION OVER HET IJ FESTIVAL A highlight of the global dance-music event calendar, Catch the ferry for a lively Sensation unleashes its 'Angels festival offering a summery and Demons'-themed club blend of site-specific theatre, event (dress in white or black!) DJs and fabulous food. Many at the Amsterdam ArenA this performances are in Dutch, year, hosting some of the bigbut there's plenty for internagest names in dance music. tionals to enjoy. 2 Jul, Amsterdam ArenA, 8-17 Jul, NDSM Wharf, www.sensation.com. www.overhetij.nl.

SONG FROM FAR AWAY

weeks of sensational comedy performances from a host of top stand-up talent from the UK, America, Australia and Canada. 13 Jul-6 Aug, Toomler, www.toomler.com/ international-shows. TREK FOOD TRUCK FESTIVAL For this culinary festival, numerous food trucks, yes, trek through the entire country to provide visitors to city parks tasty treats and drinks, plus live music, theatre and other entertainment. 14-17 Jul, Amstelpark, www.festival-trek.nl.

© RIEN DE JAGER

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

UITMARKT Annually attracting more than 450,000 visitors, the Uitmarkt is one of the country’s most popular cultural events and the traditional opening of the cultural season. The festival features more than 450 performances by some 2,000 artists, from classical to kid-friendly, hip-hop to dance and theatre to jazz. There's also the Manuscripta book market, Uitmarkt Junior for the kids and an abundance of information booths and stands. 26-28 Aug, Museumplein & Leidseplein, www.uitmarkt.nl 40UP FESTIVAL A popular party event that tours clubs around the Netherlands each year, the 40UP Festival ups the pop and disco stakes with some well-known artists from the last four decades. 9 Jul, ArenA Park, www.40upfestival.com.

LIVE AT THE AMSTERDAMSE BOS As well as its sport and recreation facilities, the dazzling nature of Amsterdamse Bos is home to a picturesque openair theatre that reopens for the season with diverse singer-songwriter and pop acts. Amsterdamse Bostheater, www.liveatamsterdamsebos.nl. FESTELLA It started as a joke, but after a Facebook page attracted thousands of followers, Festella, inspired by Nutella, became sweet reality, with plenty of different dishes involving the chocolatey nougat spread. 16 Jul, Stadspodium Amsterdam, www.festella.nl. KWAKU SUMMER FESTIVAL Amsterdam’s Nelson Mandelapark is a colourful place to be in the summertime as the Kwaku Summer Festival returns for four consecutive weekends of multicultural fun. Embrace a wealth of food, drink, sports, live music, poetry and dance performances. 16 Jul-7 Aug, Nelson Mandelapark, www.kwakufestival.nl. BUITEN WESTEN Electronic and house music remains the primary focus of this multi-faceted festival that unites DJs, musicians, artists, creative spirits and culture lovers. 16 Jul, Ouderkerkerplas, www.buitenwesten.am. HORTUS FESTIVAL For a balmy and cultured summer evening, the Hortus Festival brings classical music to the botanical gardens of Amsterdam. The theme this year is 'The New World: America'. Performances take place on various days. 22 Jul-30 Aug, Hortus Botanicus, www.hortusfestival.nl.

THE SOCIAL GARDEN Enjoy a vibrant mix of pop, house, reggae, hip-hop and R&B, with live acts and DJs. 16 Jul, Riekerhaven, www.socialgarden.nl.

22FEST Amsterdam-based music platform 22tracks once again celebrates summer with its own music festival. Join them in the forest for a mix of high-quality hip-hop, R&B, pop and house. 23 Jul, Diemerbos, www.22fest.nl.

COMEDYTRAIN INTERNATIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL The world famous Comedytrain steams into town for four

AMSTERDAM GAY PRIDE/ EUROPRIDE The city is a rainbow of events in gay and straight venues


55

jul & aug 2016

STAGE alike as EuroPride comes to town, including dance parties, film festivals, sporting events, culture and more. The flamboyant centrepiece is naturally the Canal Parade (6 August), where lavishly decorated boats and barges parade around the city’s canals. Celebrations kick off officially on 23 July with Pink Saturday at Vondelpark and the Pride Walk to Dam Square. 23 Jul-7 Aug, various locations, pride.amsterdam. VUNZIGE DEUNTJES FESTIVAL Vunzige Deuntjes (‘dirty tunes’) steps outside for another edition of their fun and filthy festival celebrating raw dance music and dirty beats. 30 & 31 Jul, Diemerbos, www.vunzigedeuntjes.nl. MILKSHAKE FESTIVAL Not just your average festival, this is an event with a clear message: it's about respect, freedom, love, tolerance, outof-the-box thinking and, of course, plenty of tunes and festival fun. The Milkshake Festival hosts multiple stages, each with its own defining character and acts. 30 & 31 Jul, Westerpark, www.milkshakefestival.com. PLUK DE NACHT Featuring genres ranging from absurd rom-coms to hauntingly muffled horror flicks, this outdoor film festival is a breath of al-fresco air with unique offerings of not-yet-released films, animations, documentaries and shorts. The selection is certainly friendly for international audiences. 3-13 Aug, Stenen Hoofd, www.plukdenacht.nl. AMSTERDAM KOOKT Delicious snacks, food trucks, tasting sessions, good wine, a beer garden and cooking workshops are all in place here. 4-7 Aug, NDSM Wharf, www.amsterdamkookt.nl. LANDJUWEEL FESTIVAL Drawing on the late medieval tradition of a Flemish poets' festival, Landjuweel has grown into a multi-day cultural happening featuring theatrical explosions, poetry, music, experimental art, workshops and a scintillating programme for the kids. 10-15 Aug, Ruigoord, www.ruigoord.nl. DE PARADE THEATRE FESTIVAL With a slew of live music performances, activities, culinary delights and a truly unique atmosphere, this travelling theatre festival guarantees a memorable evening even if you don’t speak the local lingo. It's also just a perfect spot to chill out on a summer evening and soak up the vibe. 12-28 Aug, Martin Luther Kingpark, www.deparade.nl.

GRACHTENFESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Amsterdam’s historic centre hosts this 10-day festival of classical music at numerous unique locations. An annual highlight has to be the Prinsengracht Concert (technically a separate event) – a spectacular classical extravaganza on the city-centre canal. 12-21 Aug, various locations, www.grachtenfestival.nl HARTJESDAGEN Originally a medieval national holiday, this tradition has today developed a carnival personality complete with cross-dressers, street opera, a dragon dance and lots of food and drink, attracting thousands yearly for ye olde celebrations. Mid-Aug, Zeedijk, www. stichtinghartjesdagen.nl. LOVELAND FESTIVAL Loveland is traditionally one of the biggest dance-music parties of the season. Expect an amazing production and elaborate staging, big-name DJs, graffiti artists, delicious food and, of course, the unexpected. 13 Aug, Sloterpark, www.lovelandfestival.com. APPELSAP FRESH MUSIC FESTIVAL Appelsap (Apple Juice) represents everything that's fresh, so spend a day in the Flevopark’s fresh air with a refreshing drink or two, a host of cutting-edge hip-hop and electro acts, plus crateloads of DJs! 13 Aug, Flevopark, www. appelsap.net/festival. SUMMER DANCE FOREVER The international Summer Dance Forever festival fixes its spotlights firmly on urban dance in the heart of Amsterdam. Expect a huge range of dance genres that will fuel an entire week of parties, workshops and fully-fledged ‘battles’ at various locations across the city. The urban-dance festival traditionally includes a variety of international acts in some of Amsterdam's hottest venues. Look out for the 'Theatre Forever' programme for two nights at DeLaMar Theater too. 16-24 Aug, various locations, www.summerdanceforever. com. WORLD CINEMA AMSTERDAM Celebrating the many exceptional films made in Latin America, Asia and Africa, this festival screens more than 40 feature-length and short films (indoor and outdoor) alongside an extensive programme of Q&A sessions, masterclasses, debates and parties. For its latest edition, expect additional open-air screenings in Vondelpark (already beginning from 5 Aug) and Marie Heinekenplein, near

the Rialto cinema. 18-27 Aug, various locations, www.worldcinema amsterdam.nl. AMSTERDAM MAKER FESTIVAL The ultimate hands-on event offering a large, open-plan workplace for craftspeople to show off their innovative work and designs with workshops, demonstrations, tasting sessions and installations. 19-21 Aug, Marineterrein Amsterdam, www.amsterdammakerfestival.nl. AFRICA FASHION WEEK Africa Fashion Week offers a chance to check out the latest fashion trends of the emerging vibrant African art and design industry. The event aims to raise awareness of the work of African fashion designers and African-inspired couture. 25-27 Aug, various locations, www.afwamsterdam.com. AMSTERDAM WOODS FESTIVAL This festival features a mix of fresh Dutch bands to tell your friends about, plus seasoned international success stories – Daniel Norgren, Sticky Fingers, PAUW, Palmbomen II Live, Marble Sounds, De Likt and Amber Arcades, to name but a few. 26 & 27 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, www.amsterdamwoods.nl. MYSTERYLAND With fairytale surroundings, open fields and intimate spaces, Mysteryland has built up a reputation as one of the most unique dance festivals in the world. Of course, it isn't a case of style before substance, as it also brings together some of the biggest names in EDM, like Afrojack and Diplo. 27 & 28 Aug, Floriade festival grounds, Haarlemmermeer, www.mysteryland.nl. VOLTT LOVES SUMMER This annual one-day techno festival always attracts an impressive domestic and international DJ line-up. But it’s more than a musical spectacle: there’s a traditional focus on the finer things in life with an enormous chillout area, plenty of delicious food & cocktails and a vintage market. 27 Aug, NDSM Wharf, www.voltt.com. ENCORE FESTIVAL Summer is sure to be hotter than ever as Encore bounces out of its usual club-night digs at the Melkweg for a fullon festival with multiple stages, a host of performers and quality hip-hop guaranteed. Look out for the likes of Fetty Wap and Metro Boomin. 28 Aug, NDSM Wharf, www.encorefestival.nl.

THEATRE, DANCE & COMEDY

the tap dance from 'Singin’ in the Rain'; the disco dance from 'Saturday Night Fever'; the contemporary dance from Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s 'Rosas'; and the classical ballet of 'The Dying Swan'. Fri 1 Jul, Theater Bellevue, 20:30, €25

SHOT OF IMPROV Shot of Improv sees the entire Boom Chicago cast take to the stage, so the laughs are guaranteed to keep on comin’. CompleteMULTITUD ly different each week, it’s a show Uruguayan video artist and chorethat starts big and never slows ographer Tamara Cubas brings todown. every Sat, Boom Chicago, 22:30, gether over 60 Amsterdammers, young and old, for an energetic €15 dance spectacle exploring the peANNE culiarities of group dynamics. This long-running production ex- Fri 1 & Sat 2 Jul, Erasmuspark, 21:30 (Fri), 21:00 (Sat), free plores Anne Frank’s life before her family went into hiding, giving an JULIDANS AT THE PARK impression of what life was like in Sultry summer evenings (and the annex and provides an insight afternoons), a wander through into what happened after the the park, and international dance family was discovered. talent plucked from the Julidans every Sun (excluding 7 & 14 festival programme, free at the Aug), Theater Amsterdam, 13:30 Vondelpark Openluchttheater. & 19:00, €35-€79 Fri 1, Sat 2 & Fri 8 Jul, VondelBEST OF BOOM 2016 park Open Air Theatre, various times, free After more than 20 years of laughs and cultural silliness in ANGRY WHITE MEN: TRUMP Amsterdam, the Boom Chicago UP THE VOLUME comedy crew presents 'Best of Boom Chicago's political comedy Boom'. This highlights package team is reunited for the impendcombines the troupe’s sharpest ing US election. Pep Rosenfeld, sketches and trademark improGreg Shapiro and director Anvisation for a two-hour show that drew Moskos have performed in starts big and never slows down. seven critically acclaimed shows various dates Jul & Aug, Boom on Boom Chicago's stage, but are Chicago, 20:30 they ready for President Donald THE QUEEN OF SPADES Trump? Not since President The Dutch National Opera and George W Bush has there been an idea so disturbing to many... yet so the Royal Concertgebouw Orfantastic for comedians. chestra perform Tchaikovsky's Fri 1 & 8 Jul, Boom Chicago, 'The Queen of Spades'. The Nor20:30, various prices wegian director Stefan Herheim, who is widely acclaimed for his WE’RE PRETTY FUCKIN’ FAR unconventional opera stagings FROM OKAY and spectacular productions, Belgian dancer Lisbeth Gruwez, transports the work into a cona Julidans regular, explores the temporary setting. In Russian, with Dutch and English surtitles. human body in its most primitive instinctive state – fear – set to a Sun 3 Jul, Dutch National Opera breath-taking audio collage of the and Ballet, 13:30, €18-€160 performers’ breathing by sound THE DUTCH NATIONAL OPdesigner Maarten Van CauwenERA 50TH ANNIVERSARY berghe. CONCERT WITH EVA-MARIA Sat 2 & Sun 3 Jul, Theater BelWESTBROEK levue, various times, €25 Accompanied by the Rotterdam UNTIL OUR HEARTS STOP Philharmonic Orchestra, soprano New Orleans-born, New YorkEva-Maria Westbroek performs trained dancer Meg Stuart brings arias of two strong, yet controtogether six performers and three versial, women as she takes the role of Cleopatra in a monologue musicians from her Flemish comby Berlioz and then sings Salome pany Damaged Goods to explore the contrary human need for from the eponymous Richard attention and our simultaneous Strauss opera. inability to handle it. Fri 1 Jul, Dutch National Opera Sat 2 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, and Ballet, 20:00, €16-€122 20:30, €15-€32.50 LE SYNDROME IAN FOG London, late seventies. Disco is at The Portuguese choreographer its peak. But on the other side of the channel, a whole other kind of and dancer Luís Guerra loves to draw, which is something that dance is emerging. Dark, poetic, comes through clearly in his work electric, jerky club dance. How via the carefully composed stage could they flourish at the same sets and the movements of the time? Can one body combine dancers’ bodies themselves. A both? In this exhilarating work visual work of art in three parts, for nine dancers, ex punk rocker four dancers execute fast-forward Christian Rizzo grapples with mechanical movements and these questions, on nothing less trance-like stillness. than a golden dance floor. Sun 3 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, Fri 1 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 21:00, €10-€30 21:00, €10-€ 37.50 NO DANCE, NO PARADISE There’s no place for cultural snobbery in Spanish choreographer Pere Faura’s heart-felt homage to four much-loved iconic dances:

STONES IN HER MOUTH Samoa-born Lemi Ponifasio puts ten strong Maori women in the spotlight, with new songs based on the moteatea – elegies, protest


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PART IV THE A-LIST

STAGE SONDHEIM IN CONCERT A host of Dutch singers perform their favourite Sondheim moments, touching on songs from musicals like 'A Little Night Music', 'Sweeney Todd' and 'Into the Woods'. Mon 4 Jul, DeLaMar Theater, 20:00, €19.50-€29.50 MONUMENT 0 - HAUNTED BY WARS (1913-2013) Hungarian choreographer Eszter Salamon revisits tribes and cultures all over the world that have been conquered, invaded and enslaved during the past 100 years of war with the West. Putting the spotlight on traditional dances of war, triumph and defeat, Salamon plays her own part in fighting the cultural repression which ensued. Tue 5 Jul & Wed 6 Jul, Theater Bellevue, 20:30, €25 TORDRE Algerian-French choreographer Rachid Ouramdane has made his name by drawing inspiration from gruelling real life stories for his dance performances. Lora Juodkaite has always had an irresistible urge to spin and now it’s an impressive feature of her art; and Annie Hanauer dances with energy and freedom, her prosthetic arm no barrier to movement. Wed 6 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 21:00, €10-€35 STAND-UP COMEDY SHOW IN ENGLISH The clue's in the title. Stand-up comedy from a selection of performers, all in English. every Thur, Comedy Café DANCERS OF TOMORROW In the end-of-year performance 'Dancers of Tomorrow', all the pupils and students of the National Ballet Academy will appear on stage: from the nine and ten year olds who have just started their training to the gifted young dancers of Dutch National Ballet’s Junior Company. Thur 7 & Fri 8 Jul, Dutch National Opera & Ballet, 20:00, €12.50-€22.50 PROTAGONIST Since choreographer Jefta van Dinther struck his big break with 'Grind' in 2011, the world has been his playground. Julidans hosts the world premiere of his second big production with 14 dancers from the Swedish Cullberg Ballet. Sweden’s breakthrough music sensation of 2015, Elias, will provide musical accompaniment for the performance. Thur 7 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €15-€32.50 COKE Life in Manila is saturated with dance and entertainment: on TV, in bars and clubs, and on stage. With six Philippino dancers, German choreographer Arco Renz shows the fun side of dance as well as the dark side: dance to survive, dance to forget, dance to numb yourself.

Fri 8 & Sat 9 Jul, Theater Bellevue, 20:30, €25 TEFER & THE DRY PIECE XL Two up and coming Israeli choreographers based in the Netherlands make up a double-bill, each exploring the human body. Itamar Serussi works his playful, humorous magic with six male Italian ballet dancers, while Keren Levi puts eight naked female dancers behind a screen, placing you squarely in the role of voyeur. Fri 8 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 21:00, €10-€32.50 DRILL Australian footballer-turned-dancer Ahilan Ratnamohan brings athletic movement into the world of dance, examining the macho competitive behaviour of three athletes absorbed in training. Join the choreographer earlier in the day for a free workshop based on the work. Sat 9 Jul, Bijlmer Parktheater, 20:00 7 PLEASURES Danish choreographer Mette Ingvartsen breaks social taboos in a long sensual dance in which 12 dancers bring their bodies together, touch each other, and finally melt together. And then it’s your turn! The Rotonde becomes your dance floor after the performance. Sat 9 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €12.50-€30 BARBARIANS The predictably unpredictable rising star of dance, Hofesh Shechter, delivers a trilogy about intimacy, passion and the banality of love, loosely based on the film 'The Good, the Bad and the Ugly'. There will be baroque, there will be electronic dubstep, there will even be twerking. Sun 10 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €10-€42.50 COMEDYTRAIN INTERNATIONAL SUMMER FESTIVAL The world famous Comedytrain steams into town for four weeks of sensational comedy performances from a host of top stand-up talent from the UK, America, Australia and Canada. 13 Jul-6 Aug, Toomler, www.toomler.com/international-shows REGGIE WATTS American vocal artist/beatboxer/musician/comedian Reggie Watts is 100% improvised and no two performances are ever alike. Not quite music, not quite comedy, but definitely genius, the superstar is as much at home composing sublime cinematic soundtracks as he is confusing and entrancing delighted audiences on late night TV shows. Wed 13 Jul, Melkweg, 19:30, €25 ROMEO & JULIA 400 years since the death of Shakespeare, see the bard’s work as you’ve never seen it before, with circus, theatre and music in an explosive celebration of love. Even if you don’t understand the Dutch dialogue,

Choice theatre © 2010 THEATRE T & CIE/VALERIE REMISE

songs, love songs and curse songs of the Maori women. Mon 4 Jul & Tue 5 Jul, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €17.50-€35

CIRQUE ÉLOIZE No-one spins and dangles from ropes quite like French Canadians. Cirque Éloize is a circus/dance troupe based in Quebec but they're spending a couple of weeks in Amsterdam's old circus theatre performing 'iD', which has been described as 'West Side Story gone hip-hop circus'. Expect some urban beats, world-class acrobatics and a particularly high-tech production of this timeless boy-meets-girl story. A big success in Amsterdam last summer, the group are back for another run of performances. Wed 27 Jul-Sun 7 Aug, Royal Theatre Carré, various times & prices there will be plenty to entertain international visitors in the unique amphitheatre setting. Tue 19 Jul-Sat 3 Sep (Tue-Sat), Amsterdamse Bostheater, 21:00, €16.50 WHY TRAM 8 NO LONGER RUNS Storyteller Karel Baracs tells a true story about the rescue of children by the Dutch resistance during WWII. It's a tale about persecution and betrayal, about loyalty and love, leaving a deep impression on audiences, young and old. Performances are in English, not intended for children under 16. Sun 31 Jul; 7, 14, 21 & 28 Aug, Dutch Resistance Museum, 12:00, €27.50 / Mon 25 Jul; 1, 8, 15, 22 & 29 Aug, Tobacco Theater, 11:00, €17.50 BIANCA DEL RIO - NOT TODAY SATAN Following a successful stopover at Theater Amsterdam in 2015, Bianca Del Rio, the winner of the sixth season of RuPaul's Drag Race, is back to captivate fans with her sharp wit, dismembering humor and impeccably quick-witted comedy - everything and everyone is her target. Her new show is titled 'Not Today Satan', taking place during Europride. Mon 1 Aug, Theater Amsterdam, 20:00, €40-€60 BILL BURR This American stand-up comic has made it big around the globe thanks to his specials for the likes of Comedy Central and Netflix. Big on YouTube too, especially in the run-up to the US elections this autumn, Burr makes the most of the daily political and celebrity news. Sun 7 Aug, DeLaMar Theater, 20:00, €32 HANS KLOK - HOUSE OF HORROR The master illusionists of yesteryear feel threatened by

iconic Dutch magician Hans Klok… and they’ve come back from the grave to haunt him. Klok must use every trick in the book to escape the claws of his ghoulish demons. This spooky show full of theatricality is set to make your hair stand on end all through summer. Sun 14 Aug-Sun 2 Oct, Royal Theatre Carré, various times and prices SUMMER DANCE FOREVER The international Summer Dance Forever festival fixes the spotlights firmly on urban dance in the heart of Amsterdam. Expect a huge range of dance genres that will fuel an entire week of parties, workshops and fully-fledged ‘battles’ at various locations across the city. The urban dance festival traditionally includes a variety of international acts in some of Amsterdam's hottest venues. 16-24 Aug, various locations, www.summerdanceforever. com MEDEA Euripides’ tragic heroine is one of the most divisive figures of Greek drama. In this modernised version by Toneelgroep Amsterdam, directed by the Australian Simon Stone, she is a successful doctor who tries to save her marriage and her career mental health, family life and career deteriorate until she tumbles into the abyss. In Dutch but with English surtitles on the following dates. 17-20, 30 & 31 Aug, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €21-€33.50 PHILIP GLASS Take a seat and enter the mind of classical composer Philip Glass in an interview hosted by the John Adams Institute. Sat 20 Aug, Stadsschouwburg, 20:30, €27.50 SONG FROM FAR AWAY A young banker returns from New York to his birth city Am-

sterdam to be present at the funeral of his younger brother. Before the funeral he writes letters, alternately melancholic, rebellious or calm in tone, in an attempt to come into contact with the brother he never had any real contact with. The work is a monologue as a mourning process. These performances by Toneelgroep Amsterdam are in Dutch, but also with English surtitles on the dates below. 23-27 Aug, Stadsschouwburg, 20:00, €18.50-€23 LEBENSRAUM It started in Amsterdam, went around the world, now 'Lebensraum' is back in the city to dazzle, confuse and entertain viewers. A masterpiece of absurdist mime, Jakop Ahlbom's acclaimed work is driven along by a soundtrack from Dutch indie band Alamo Race Track. Wed 24-Sat 27 Aug, DeLaMar Theater, 20:00/20:30, €17.50€27.50, AMY SCHUMER LIVE 'Inside Amy Schumer' has proved to be a massive international hit for Comedy Central. Now in its fourth season, the star of the sketch show has become a major international star. More recently she's taken to the cinema in films like 'Trainwreck'. But this summer she's going back to her standup roots, so look out plenty of home truths, surreal moments and lots of laughs. Sun 28 Aug, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €66-€82.50 ADDRESSES Boom Chicago Rozentheater Rozengracht 117 020 423 0101 www.boomchicago.nl Crea Café Nieuwe Achtergracht 170 020 525 1423 www.crea.uva.nl Dutch National Opera & Ballet Amstel 3 020 625 5455 www.operaballet.nl Melkweg Lijnbaansgracht 234A www.melkweg.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl RAI Theater Europaplein 22 020 549 1212 www.rai.nl Royal Theater Carré Amstel 115/125 0900 2525255 www.carre.nl Stadsschouwburg Leidseplein 26, 020 624 2311 www.stadsschouwburg amsterdam.nl Theater Amsterdam Danzigerkade 5 www.theateramsterdam.nl Theater Bellevue Leidsekade 90 020 530 5301 www.theaterbellevue.nl Toomler Breitnerstraat 2 020 670 7400 www.toomler.nl Ziggo Dome De Passage 100 www.ziggodome.nl


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jul & aug 2016

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ THE KYTEMAN ORCHESTRA & RADIO PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Dutch hip-hop outfit The Kyteman Orchestra teams up with the Radio Philharmonic Orchestra and the Groot Omroepkoor for an improvised, free-spirited performance to kick of the Royal Concertgebouw's Robeco Summer Nights series in style. Fri 1 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 21:00, €31-€38

Choice pop & jazz

POKEY LAFARGE The St. Louis-based singer, songwriter and multi-instrumentalist draws from a deep well of American musical traditions to create distinctively personal music that’s timeless rather than retro. After a particularly successful period with Jack White’s Third Man Records, LaFarge is now walking his own line. Thur 7 Jul, Paradiso, 20:30, €19

THE REAL MCKENZIES Specialising in their own unique brand of celtic punk, Canadians The Real McKenzies are back LABORATOIRE ARTISTIQUE out on tour. Their incendiary mix SANS LIMITE - HAN BENNINK of punk and folk music has unDutch jazz drummer Han Bendoubtedly influenced bands like nink hits, kicks and slaps out Dropkick Murphys and Flogging rhythms mere mortals can’t imagMolly. ine. Join him at one of his favour- Thur 7 Jul, Q-Factory, 20:00, €14 ite Amsterdam spaces, the Roode MAT MANERI, CRAIG Bioscoop, where he'll spend three TABORN, CHES SMITH days exploring every acoustic cranny of the tiny venue. When three busy improvisational Fri 1-Sun 3 Jul, Roode Bioscoop, musicians collided in a New York 20:30 (Sun 16:00), €18 gig, the chemistry was instant. Ever since, outside their individBRIAN JONESTOWN ual work with other ensembles, MASSACRE Smith, Taborn and Maneri have Few band names both sum up formed their own tight trio. their sound and are excellent Their first album, 'The Bell', is portmanteaus, but psyche rock going down well with the critics band Brian Jonestown Massacre for its brooding, richly textured manages the double-whammy seduction. with aplomb. Around for 26 years Fri 8 Jul, Bimhuis, 20:30, €17and led by singer/guitarist Anton €20 Newcombe, the band’s 14th stuNEIL YOUNG dio album is 2015’s 'Musique de Film Imagine', paying tribute to A Canadian icon and folk hero, European new wave cinema. Neil Young rose to fame with Sat 2 Jul, Melkweg, 19:30, €18 Buffalo Springfield before joining Crosby, Stills & Nash, then ORCHESTRE LES finding his solo voice. His early MANGELEPA take on garage rock also helped One of the best acts of Kenya’s pave the way for grunge decades golden era of Lingala, Orchestre later. Young regularly alternates Les Mangelepa was formed in between releasing folk and rock 1976 and has made 13 albums 'n' roll records. His record of which include several of East Af- 2015, 'The Monsanto Years' is his rica’s best loved songs. This is the 36th studio album and criticises group’s first tour outside of Africa, agriculture giant Monsanto, conwith a core group of musicians tinuing a long history of political from their glory days. activism. Sat 2 Jul, Bimhuis, 20:30, €15Sat 9 Jul, Ziggo Dome, 20:00, €18 €49-€76 MUZIEKSCHOOL AMSTERTINARIWEN DAM JAZZ MARATHON Mali desert blues outfit Tinariwen An afternoon filled with young have helped bring their genre of jazz talent. All of the ensembles guitar wizardry to the western and big bands of the Music School world. Musically, the obscure time of Amsterdam will perform under signatures mixed with the Jimi the inspiring leadership of Peter Hendrix-inspired riffing makes Guidi, Daniel Mester, Florian for an intriguing and psychedelic Sperzel and Leon van Mil. experience. In the political hotbed Sun 3 Jul, Bimhuis, 13:00, €6 of north Mali, depending on the party in power that day, the outfit VINTAGE TROUBLE and their peers may be targeted Steeped in the sounds of classic with the guitar deemed a form blues, soul, and rock & roll from of unruly expression and tool for the ’50s and ’60s, this LA-based revolution. As such, Tinariwen foursome fuses the style of the are true rock 'n' roll rebels and past with the swagger of the absolutely mesmerising live. present, and their passionate live Wed 13 Jul, Paradiso, 20:30, €20 shows have won them a devoted MDOU MOCTAR fan following around the world. Tue 5 Jul, Melkweg, 20:00, €17.50 Singing in his native Tamasheq language, as a member of the ADRIAN BELEW POWER TRIO nomadic Tuareg people, Mdou This multi-instrumentalist is a Moctar mixes North African big name to fans of the prog rock desert blues with modern sounds scene, working with the likes of like electronic drums and auBowie and Zappa, as well as playto-tuning. ing an iconic role as guitarist of Wed 13 Jul, Paradiso, 23:30, €10 King Crimson. This tour sees him CYRILLE AIMÉE performing intimate shows as a trio, featuring Julie Slick on bass The enthralling French singer and Tobias Ralph on drums. Cyrille Aimée has had a life-long Wed 6 Jul, Q-Factory, 19:30, love affair with gypsy music, fa€24.50 mously abandoning France’s big

© LESLIE KIRCHHOFF

POP & JAZZ

COURTNEY BARNETT Australian troubadour, record label owner and self-proclaimed avant gardener, Courtney Barnett has taken the world by storm with her witty and idiosyncratic lyrics and oft-grungy, slacker guitar rock. The hype was high off the back of 'The Double EP: A Sea Split Peas' with American TV appearances following. Her album 'Sometimes I Sit and Think, And Sometimes I Just Sit' backed up the hype and after more than a year on the road, she's bringing the songs to Amsterdam for the first time. Tue 5 Jul, Paradiso, 20:30, €20

REGGIE WATTS American vocal artist/beatboxer/musician/comedian Reggie Watts is 100% improvised and no two performances are ever alike. Not quite music, not quite comedy, but definitely genius, the superstar is as much at home composing sublime cinematic soundtracks as he is confusing and entrancing delighted audiences on late night TV shows. Wed 13 Jul, Melkweg, 19:30, €25 TV talent show when they asked her to sign away her creative freedom. Winner of numerous jazz singing prizes, the Wall Street Journal picked her out as one of the most promising jazz singers of her generation. Thur 14 Jul, Bimhuis, 20:30, €17-€20

SHARON JONES & THE DAP-KINGS One of the hardest working soul and funk acts around, Sharon Jones & The DapKings have carved a name for themselves with relentless touring and a hi-energy performance. Take a trip back in time as she leads her group through authentic deep funk and soul. Sun 28 Aug, Amsterdamse Bostheater, 20:00, €35 partners of 20 years, saxophonist Andy Sheppard and bassist Steve Swallow. Delicate, stark, intense; the music is timeless, and an unmistakable component in the development of modern creative jazz. Fri 15 Jul, Bimhuis, 20:30, €21-€25

THE COMMON LINNETS BETWEEN THE BURIED AND ME Country meets modern Americana in the shape of Ilse DeLange, The American quintet combines JB Meijers, Jake Etheridge and avant-garde metal, progressive Matthew Crosby. They’ll be tour- rock and death metal with some ing all the big festivals this sumunexpected twists and turns. On mer with their intimate acoustic this tour the band presents their songs and punchier rock, but album 'Coma Ecliptic' for the first where better to hear the Nether- time live in full. Their most theatland’s own songbirds than among rical album yet, they’ll be making the trees and stars of an open air the most of taking it to the stage. theatre in the woods? Sat 16 Jul, Melkweg, 19:00, €18 Fri 15 Jul, Amsterdamse BosBEYONCÉ theater, 19:00, €35 What surprises does Queen B CARLA BLEY 'TRIOS' have in store for Amsterdam's Highlights from the oeuvre of biggest music venue? The Forcelebrated jazz composer and pi- mation World Tour sees Beyoncé anist Carla Bley, with her musical showcasing new record 'Lemon-

ade' and features a 60-foot tall LED box as its centrepiece. Please keep in mind that tickets for the concert are sold out and that it's advisable to only purchase tickets from official resellers. Sat 16 Jul, Amsterdam ArenA, 19:00, sold out JAZZFEST AMSTERDAM SUMMER SPECIAL As a preview to the official JazzFest Amsterdam, coming up this autumn, Jazzfest presents a summer special at the Bimhuis with three ensembles from Amsterdam: Xavi Torres Trio, Bennink/Baas and Tini Thomsen's Max Sax. Sat 16 Jul, Bimhuis, 20:30, €18 BRIAN SETZER'S ROCKABILLY RIOT Shimmy into those stove pipes and don the brothel creepers because Brian Setzer's Rockabilly Riot returns to Amsterdam. From the Stray Cats to his many incarnations since, Brian Setzer has been at the forefront of the rockabilly movement for more than 35 years. Always eager to start a party, when he plays expect a mix of Cats classics, new tunes and vintage covers. Sat 16 Jul, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €45 MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR LIVE While some Beatles tribute bands will focus on the early works or the biggest songs, The Analogues prefer to take it on one album at a time with a focus on the later, more complex works. Here they’ll play the 'Magical Mystery Tour' with a full pop orchestra. Mon 18 & Tue 19 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €25-€43 BAD RELIGION After forming in Los Angeles in 1979, it took a few years for Bad Religion to gain infamy, but since 1993, they’ve have been at the forefront of punk rock’s California scene. Their last record, 2013’s 'True North', was the first to crack the Billboard’s Top 20, but underground success has always been on their side. Wed 20 Jul, Melkweg, 19:30, €25 KITTY, DAISY & LEWIS Siblings with a strong sense of nostalgia, Londoners Kitty, Daisy & Lewis made their mark with a tight collection of rockabilly, jump blues and Hawaiian originals and covers back in 2008. However, their second record 'Smoking In Heaven' moved them into ska while 2014’s 'Kitty, Daisy & Lewis The Third', produced by The Clash’s Mick Jones, spread them wider still with elements of disco and soul. Thur 21 Jul, Melkweg, 19:30, €21.50 GEORGE CLINTON & PARLIAMENT FUNKADELIC Joined by his mothership, complete with his a huge funk cast from the history of Parliament Funkadelic, expect around three hours of funk jams from this revolving cast of music’s freaks and geeks – along with a packed audience ready to go with the flow. Fri 22 Jul, Paradiso, 20:30, €33


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PART IV THE A-LIST

MUSIC/POP & JAZZ/CLASSICAL INNER CIRCLE Probably best known for their single ‘Bad Boys’, the theme tune to the ‘90s reality show Cops, and their 1993 hit ‘Sweat’, reggae pop band Inner Circle were actually formed way back in 1968 by brothers Ian and Roger Lewis. Mon 25 Jul, Melkweg, 19:30, €22.50 TRIBUTE TO THE BEACH BOYS Recall the pop classics of one of the most influential albums of all times as music pundit Leo Blokhuis presents a tribute to Pet Sounds half a century after its release. Yorick van Norden, Maurits Westerik, Anne Soldaat and other Dutch musicians play their renditions of songs like ‘God Only Knows’ and ‘Wouldn’t it be Nice’. Mon 25 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €20-€36 BOBBY RUSH Although now in his 80s, American blues legend Bobby Rush still has plenty to teach the younger generation. Over the decades he's performed with all the blues greats. And more recently, he starred in the acclaimed documentary 'I Am The Blues' which premiered in Amsterdam last November. Thur 28 Jul, North Sea Jazz Club, 21:30, €30-€34 MARK LANEGAN Singing with a deep, nicotine-ravaged growl that's as rich and strong as it was 25 years ago, Mark Lanegan first rose to fame when his band The Screaming Trees rose up from the streets of grunge in the '90s. Since then, Lanegan has carved out a strong identity of his own as a vocalist and songwriter informed by the blues but veering from hard rock to electronica or folk. Fri 29 Jul, Melkweg, 19:30, €22.50 MARK WILKINSON The Australian acoustic musician sells out shows all over the world with his timeless, almost nostalgic brand of singer-songwriting. His warm, rich tone, poetic lyrics and gentle guitar accompaniment have won the hearts of live audiences everywhere and secured him an ever-growing band of followers. Sat 30 Jul, Paradiso, 20:00, €14 NEIL FINN Whether with his band Crowded House; brother Tim and Split Enz; or by himself, Neil Finn can craft a tune. The New Zealander has penned some of the greatest pop heartbreakers and heart-warmers of the past 30 years, like 'Don’t Dream It’s over', 'Better Be Home Soon' and 'Fall At Your Feet'. In 2014 he released solo record 'Dizzy Heights' with the help of his sons and wife Sharon. Expect a dash of all corners of his career in this intimate outdoor event. Sun 7 Aug, Amsterdamse Bostheater, 19:00, €39 NAHKO AND MEDICINE FOR THE PEOPLE Sold out in the Melkweg just last January, the Bob Dylan-inspired singer and his multicultural collective are back to heal us,

NOFX GÜRZENICH-ORCHESTER KÖLN & JEAN-FRÉDÉRIC CLASSICAL Punk veterans NOFX have been NEUBURGER – RACHshredding global stages and incitTHE DUTCH NATIONAL MANINOFF + ELGAR ing mosh pits for more than 30 OPERA 50TH ANNIVERSARY years now, and they’re still bouncThe orchestra from Cologne is ing pretty high whenever the beat CONCERT WITH EVA-MARIA joined by pianist Jean-Frédéric WESTBROEK strikes up. Join frontman Fat Neuburger for Rachmaninoff's Mike and his cronies for what’s Accompanied by the Rotterdam brilliantly tender Piano Concerto sure to be an energetic live set Philharmonic Orchestra, soprano no. 2. Elgar’s well-loved Enigma FIDLAR chock full of their decades-spanEva-Maria Westbroek performs Variations, in which the composer Scuzzy California punks FIDLAR ning punk rock anthems. arias of two strong, yet contropaints musical portraits of 14 are all about beachy garage vibes. Thur 18 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, versial, women as she takes the different friends, are also on the Their most recent album, 2015’s €25 role of Cleopatra in a monologue programme. François-Xavier 'Too', is a little more refined than by Berlioz and then sings Salome Roth conducts. LOGIC 2013’s self-titled record, but no from the eponymous Richard Wed 6 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, more mature… thankfully. Grab Returning to the Netherlands, Strauss opera. 20:00, €25-€43 a beer, punch the air and catch MC and producer Logic brings Fri 1 Jul, Dutch National Opera NATIONAL ORCHESTRA OF FIDLAR's wave. his second record, 'The Incredand Ballet, 20:00, €16-€122 BELGIUM & GAUTIER Tue 9 Aug, Paradiso, 20:30, €16 ible True Story', to Amsterdam. LUNCHTIME CONCERT AT CAPUÇON – DVORÁK Despite being signed to Def Jam, TARRUS RILEY WESTERKERK Logic enjoys a more underground The National Orchestra of Born in New York’s Bronx to reg- audience and is often compared Every Friday at lunchtime, a free Belgium and Gautier Capuçon gae star Jimmy Riley, but raised to Kendrick Lamar and influorgan recital takes place in Amperform Dvorák’s romantic Cello in Jamaica, Tarrus Riley has been enced by the likes of OutKast and sterdam's famous Westerkerk. Concerto, plus Mussorgsky’s making his own name in reggae Kanye West. Fridays, Westerkerk, 13:00, free ‘Pictures at an Exhibition’, which for over a decade. With six solo Sun 21 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, uses colourful elements from HUNTINGTOWER STRING records released, he also recently €18.50 Slavic folk melodies and Russian ORCHESTRA collaborated with Major Lazer on fairy tales. DAMIAN 'JR. GONG' MARLEY their track 'Powerful' alongside The award-winning youth orFri 8 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, Ellie Goulding. It’s hard to follow in the shadow chestra from a Christian school 20:00, €25-€43 Wed 10 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, €25 of reggae's late great Bob Marley in Melbourne performs works by TOONKUNSTKOOR AMSTERbut his youngest, Damian ‘Jr Vivaldi, Grieg, Tchaikovsky and JAZZ ORCHESTRA OF THE DAM – MOZART REQUIEM Gong’ Marley, does a great job, Percy Grainger. Lynley Bramble CONCERTGEBOUW & FAY while also succeeding in doing his conducts. Jan Willem de Vriend conducts CLAASSEN – A TRIBUTE TO own thing. The Grammy award Sat 2 Jul, English Reformed the Orkest van het Oosten and RITA REYS winner has worked with Nas and Church, 15:15 the Toonkunstkoor Amsterdam in The Royal Concertgebouw is Skrillex as well as forming the a rendition of Mozart’s mournful SUMMERNIGHT AT THE transformed into a proper jazz band Superheavy with Mick Jagand moving Requiem. To counOPERA club, complete with intimate ger, Dave Stewart, Joss Stone and terbalance the heavy mood of this table seating, as the Jazz Orches- A.R Rahman… to mixed reviews. Life! Death! War! The Radio piece, Mozart’s work is preluded tra of the Concertgebouw and Currently in the studio, his first Philharmonic Orchestra and the by Beethoven’s lively First Symsinger Fay Claassen pay tribute solo LP since 2005’s 'Welcome Groot Omproepkoor explore all phony. to Europe's 'First Lady of Jazz’, to Jamrock' will hopefully drop the great emotions and stories as Sat 9 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, Rita Reys. this year. they perform popular arias and 20:00, €25-€43 Fri 12 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, Tue 23 Aug, Paradiso, 20:30, choruses by Verdi, Puccini, WagINTERNATIONAL SUMMER 21:00, €25-€43 €32.50 ner, Bizet and others. ORGAN RECITAL Sat 2 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, POINTER SISTERS HOODIE ALLEN 20:00, €25-€43 In the summer months, a differThrough soul, disco and pop, With plenty of pop mixed in ent organist plays on De Duif's OPERA ZUID – LA BOHÈME The Pointer Sisters have released with his hip-hop, Hoodie Allen Smits organ each Sunday. songs like 'Automatic', 'I’m So dropped his third LP 'Happy Opera Zuid performs Puccini’s Sundays, De Duif, 16:00, free Excited' and 'Neutron Dance'. In Camper' earlier this year. He classic and heart-wrenching LEO VAN DOESELAAR – THE fact, what began as siblings June, sounds like a happy Eminem, tale of spirited Parisian artists SORCERER'S APPRENTICE Bonnie, Ruth and Anita is now with a cheeky tone and lyrics, and enchanted by love and doomed three generations of the soul and has collaborated with Ed Sheerby fate. The renowned organist Leo van disco family. With the passing of an, Chiddy Bang and Chance the Tue 5 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, Doeselaar gives a recital strucJune, and retiring of Bonnie and Rapper. 19:30, €25-€43 tured around Rogg's arrangement Anita, the party continues with Wed 24 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, €18 for organ of Paul Dukas' famous Ruth Pointer, her daughter Issa MACHINE GUN KELLY and granddaughter Sadako. Sun 14 Aug, Paradiso, 20:30, An MC hailing from Cleveland, €37.50 Ohio, Machine Gun Kelly got his name from his rapid-fire rapping JULIA HOLTER when he was still in high school. How many indie musicians do He was signed by Puff Daddy you see with a harpsichord on and released his first record 'Lace stage? Filling her arty baroque Up' in 2012, following it up with pop with either mellowing am2015’s 'General Admission'. bience or playful, endearing pop, Wed 24 Aug, Melkweg, 19:30, Los Angeles’ Julia Holter has €22 been compared to Joanna NewGRANDADDY som, Kate Bush and Stereolab. Her latest record, 2015’s 'Have Jason Lytle’s Grandaddy won You In My Wilderness', has been fans as big as David Bowie with getting rave reviews and has an their expansive version of experiodd cabaret feel to it. mental rock merging classic rock, Tue 16 Aug, Tolhuistuin, 20:30, scruffy indie, prog, country and €20 electronics, but then he left to pursue a solo career. Now they're O RAPPA back for one album only, plus the Hailing from Brazil, O Rappa chance to relive some of their fanare a reggae-rock outfit who tastically understated favourites. have been together for more than Thur 25 Aug, Paradiso, 20:30, 20 years, also fusing funk, hip€25 LARS VOGT – GOLDBERG VARIATIONS hop and samba – it's a According to legend, Bach wrote (and Goldberg perKEVIN MORBY heady mix. They sing in formed) the variations for a count suffering from insomnia; Portuguese, with their most A key member of indie bands tonight pianist Lars Vogt recreates the alleged usage of the recent release being 'Nunca Tem Woods and The Babies, Morby Fim…' which translates to has recently stepped out on his to work as a sleeping draught by performing the Goldberg 'Never Ends'. release the emotive singer-songVariations with the lights dimmed and the audience Wed 17 Aug, writer record 'Singing Saw', reclining in a circle around the piano. Melkweg, 19:30, €25 showing off his inner Dylan. Sat 13 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 21:00, €20- €36 Mon 29 Aug, Bitterzoet, 20:00, €15 empower us and bring our tribes together with their percussion-heavy mix of styles, and emphasis on the spoken word. A 21st century medicine show for mind and soul. Mon 8 Aug, Amsterdamse Bostheater, 19:30, €25

Choice classical


CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE: Amsterdam City Break Exploring the canals and the IJ

Shopping in Amsterdam

Excursions around Amsterdam

Amsterdam is best seen from the water! Check out these great options to explore the waterways:

Get yourself the perfect Amsterdam souvenir! We handpicked these cute stores for you:

Only a stone’s throw away from the bustling city, the beauty of Holland awaits your visit. These are our favourites:

100 Highlights Cruise

Canal Gifts

Zaanse Schans

Featuring personal audio in 19 different languages, this cruise introduces you to all the city’s waterside highlights in just one hour. As the boat departs, you embark on an amazing journey through Amsterdam’s history.

Right in the middle of the famous Jordaan area, you’ll find these stores filled with Dutch design, green gifts, unique items and traditional souvenirs.

Explore the traditional windmill village Zaanse Schans. Learn about cheese making, walk on wooden shoes and see the interior of a working windmill.

The Hague & Madurodam

Visit this authentic little store, which is situated in a 400 year old building, surrounded by the Victoria Hotel. This shop is famous for selling flags and badges of all nations and Dutch souvenirs.

Discover Holland’s grand landmarks by minivan. This guided tour takes you to Rotterdam, The Euromast tower, Delft Blue Pottery and The Hague. The final stop is Madurodam, to see all of Holland in miniature.

6 Souvenir shop

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6 Departures

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Spot a Russian submarine, a sea container ship in the Amsterdam harbour or be amazed by the modern architecture along the IJ waterfront.

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The ideal transport along the canals, passing all the highlights of Amsterdam. You can hop on and hop off at the many stops whenever you wish and create your own sightseeing tour.

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On board a sloop cruising through Amsterdam you will genuinely feel the city. Enjoy the best views of this photogenic capital and listen to the captain’s tales.

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

MUSIC/CLASSICAL Choice classical

symphonic poem 'The Sorcerer's Sat 16 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, Apprentice'. Additional works, by 20:00, €25-€43 Händel, Bach and Franck, showNEDERLANDS case the instrument in all its glory. STRIJKERSGILDE Sun 10 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 14:00, €25 The Nederlands Strijkersgilde, an amateur string orchestra specialAMSTERDAM ORGAN ised in contemporary classical, SUMMER performs works by Schönberg, Renowned organists from all Pärt, Jacob ter Veldhuis and over the world play on the St Mieczysław Weinberg. Nicholas Church in Amsterdam Sat 16 Jul, Amstelkerk, on Wednesdays throughout the 20:15, €12 summer. The church's Sauer orMÜNCHENER KAMMERgan was built in 1889 according to ORCHESTER & DENIS the ideas of Romanticism, but the KOZHUKHIN summer organ recitals will enOPERA IN THE GARDEN compass a greater variety of styles Led by violinist Daniel GiglbergThe annual Opera in the and eras, including works by Bach er and joined by pianist Denis Garden performances at and Piazzolla alongside those of Kozhukhin, the chamber orchesMuseum van Loon are a Romantic composers. tra from Munich comes to AmWednesdays, St Nicholas sterdam for a night of Elgar, Mobeautiful experience, matchChurch, 20:15, €11 zart, Puccini and Schubert. The ing the grandeur of the canal programme includes Mozart's house garden with fantastic ROYAL FLEMISH PHILHARPiano Concerto no. 15, which music. This year it's Mozart's MONIC & LIZA FERSCHTMAN the composer found challenging 'Bastien und Bastienne', a The Royal Flemish Philharmonic himself, writing to his father that one-act comic opera. of Antwerp, conducted by Antony playing it made him sweat. Let's Wed 17-Sun 21 Aug, Museum Hermus and joined by solo viohope Kozhukhin keeps a handlinist Liza Ferschtman, performs kerchief in his pocket. van Loon, 17:00-19:30, €19 Bruch’s Violin Concerto no. 1, plus Sun 17 Jul, Royal ConcertgeDvorák’s Seventh Symphony and bouw, 20:00, €25-€43 Ravels’s jazzy Piano Concerto the Entr'acte from the Marsyas by in G with the Australian Youth COFFEE CONCERT Diepenbrock. Orchestra, conducted by Manfred Thur 14 Jul, Royal ConcertgeThe reed organ and the alto violin Honeck. Following Ravel, it's time bouw, 20:00, €25-€43 are most often used in an accom- for DvoÐák's most popular sympanying role, but today, they enter phony, the Ninth or New World SUMMERNIGHTS the spotlight as Dirk Luijmes and Symphony; the work is highly AT THE MOVIES 1 Elisabeth Smalt perform a mix of popular and indeed was taken by This cinematic orchestra series new compositions and historical Neil Armstrong on the Apollo 11 returns for more summer fun. arrangements by Francesco Balil- mission – the first moon landing. Conductor Ernst van Tiel takes la Pratella, Carl Nielsen, DvoÐák, Wed 27 Jul, Royal Concertgethe helm of the Orkest van het Georg Goltermann, George Fredbouw, 20:00, €25-€43 Oosten as they perform music erick McKay and others. MÜNCHNER SYMPHONIKER from films, including the likes of Sun 17 Jul, Oosterkerk, 12:00, & SIMONE LAMSMA – 'Schindler's List', 'Pulp Fiction', free TCHAIKOVSKY'S VIOLIN 'Out of Africa' and 'Pirates of the VALERY GERGIEV & NATIONCONCERTO Caribbean'. AL YOUTH ORCHESTRA OF Fri 15 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, Violinist Simone Lamsma joins THE USA 20:00, €25-€43 the Münchner Symphoniker for Conducted by Valery Gergiev, an interpretation of Tchaikovsky's STEFAN DONNER: FRIDAY the National Youth Orchestra Violin Concerto with all its folky LUNCHTIME CONCERT of the United States of Amerbravado, its melancholy and Stefan Donner plays works by ica performs a predominantly intimacy. The audience will also Bach and Schumann on the Oost- Russian programme with works be treated to the overture from erkerk's organ. by Debussy, Rachmaninov and Verdi's Aida and Mendelssohn’s Fri 15 Jul, Oosterkerk, 14:30, free Prokofiev, including parts from joyful Italian Symphony. the latter's 'Romeo and Juliet'. Sun 31 Jul, Royal ConcertgeMETROPOLE ORKEST: Thur 21 Jul, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €25-€43 HOLLAND – NATURE IN THE bouw, 20:00, €25-€43 DELTA NO DAY WITHOUT BACH The popular nature film 'Holland WRATISLAVIA CHAMBER ORFor one week each year, AmsterCHESTRA & PAUL MAYER: – Natuur in de Delta' is screened dam's Westerkerk hosts daily SUMMER SERENADES while the pop and jazz orchestra free lunchtime concerts of Bach Metropole Orkest and soloists The Wratislavia Chamber Ormusic. Tania Kross (mezzo-soprano) and chestra and clarinetist Paul Mayer Mon 1-Sat 6 Aug, Westerkerk, Tuur Florizoone (accordion) per- stop by the Royal Concertgebouw 13:00, free form its soundtrack live. The film, for a light and melodious summer YOUTH ORCHESTRA OF THE narrated by Carice van Houten evening concert, with pieces NETHERLANDS & ROSANNE and Bram van der Vlugt, is an ode performed from a selection of PHILIPPENS to the wildlife of Holland’s rivers famous serenades by Mozart, and coast lines. Piazolla and DvoÐák. The Youth Orchestra of the Fri 22 Jul, Royal ConcertgeNetherlands and young violinist advert bouw, 20:00, €20-€36 Rosanne Philippens perform Sibelius’ exigent Violin Concerto MALLET COLLECTIVE and Brahms' summery Symphony AMSTERDAM & IVO JANSSEN no. 2; Jurjen Hempel conducts. – CANTO OSTINATO Wed 3 Aug, Royal ConcertgePianist Ivo Janssen and the Malbouw, 20:00, €20-€36 let Collective Amsterdam perform EUROPRIDE – A RAINBOW Simeon Ten Holt’s hypnotic minOF CHOIRS imalist masterpiece. One piano and four percussionists playing Amsterdam celebrates EuroPride, marimbas and xylophones is all a two-week-long celebration of that's needed to bring the versatile the European LGBT community, work to life. with a concert featuring a wide Sat 23 Jul, Royal Concertgerange of LGBT choirs. The interbouw, 20:00, €20-€36 national choirs share the stage performing a mix of pop, classical, HÉLÈNE GRIMAUD jazz and traditional songs. It's a French renaissance woman walk-in event, meaning 17 AUG – 2 SEP Hélène Grimaud – pianist, writer, audiences can come and go as SURTITLED IN ENGLISH environmental activist – performs they please.

MEDEA

PHILIP GLASS ENSEMBLE – KOYAANISQATSI The prolific and renowned American composer brings his ensemble to Amsterdam's Heineken Music Hall for a screening of the experimental cult film Koyaanisqatsi, the soundtrack of which the ensemble will perform live. Fri 19 Aug, Heineken Music Hall, 20:00, €65

Wed 17 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €25-€43 CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA & SOL GABETTA Argentinian cellist Sol Gabetta performs Saint-Saëns’ Cello Concerto no. 1 with the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra. The concerto, which composers such as Shostakovich and Rachmaninoff purportedly considered the greatest ever created, is paired with supporting pieces of elegant might by Debussy and Stravinsky. Daniele Gatti conducts. Thur 18 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €33-€56 SUMMERNIGHTS AT THE MOVIES 2 This cinematic orchestra series returns – tonight's instalment includes 'Inception', 'Forrest Gump', 'The Mission' and 'Frozen'. Fri 19 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, 20:00, €20-€36

NETHERLANDS PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA & THE NAUGHTON SISTERS Fri 5 Aug, Royal Concertgebouw, The Naughton Sisters join their two hearts and four hands to 18:00, €20 perform Mozart’s Piano Concerto CAMERATA RCO – JOURNEY No. 10. It is presumed that the IN TIME. HISTORY & ROYALTY composer wrote the concerto for two pianos to be performed by his The ensemble Camerata RCO sister Nannerl and himself. The brings theatrically swirling comNaughtons have recently risen to positions to the Concertgebouw. high acclaim internationally due The programme is full with waltzes, adagios, songs and suites to their almost mystical musical that compliment this mid-August communication, which is perhaps a connection that can only exist afternoon; renditions of Vivaldi’s between identical twins. Works 'Summer’ and his Amsterdam Concerto truly accent the season by Beethoven and Schumann are also on the programme. in the city. And actress Hadewych Sat 20 Aug, Royal ConcertgeMinis performs a complimentary bouw, 20:00, €25-€43 programme (in Dutch). Sat 13 Aug, Royal ConcertgeADDRESSES bouw, 16:00, €36 Amstelkerk YOGA CONCERT Amstelveld 10 www.amstelkerk.net Yogi/guitarist Jan Kuiper and Bimhuis harpist and singer Iris Kroes Piet Heinkade 3 collaborate for an unorthodox www.bimhuis.nl concert combining music and Bitterzoet meditation. Kroes’ Celtic-influSpuistraat 2 enced folky songs accompany www.bitterzoet.com Kuiper and Yvonne de Hoop as De Duif they provide yoga instructions, Prinsengracht 756 and the former also compliments www.deduif.net the musical ambiance with his Heineken Music Hall serene guitar playing. ArenA Boulevard 590 Sat 13 Aug, Royal Concertgewww.heineken-music-hall.nl bouw, 10:00, €20 Melkweg HANNES MINNAAR & NALijnbaansgracht 234A TIONAL YOUTH ORCHESTRA www.melkweg.nl OF THE NETHERLANDS Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ Piet Heinkade 1 Up-and-coming Dutch pianist www.muziekgebouw.nl Hannes Minnaar performs North Sea Jazz Club Brahms' grand and rousing Piano Pazzanistraat 1 Concerto no. 2, inspired by two www.northseajazzclub.com trips the composer took to Italy. Paradiso Beethoven’s Symphony no. 7 is Weteringschans 6-8 also on the programme. www.paradiso.nl Sun 14 Aug, Royal ConcertgeRoyal Concertgebouw bouw, 20:00, €20-€36 Concertgebouw 10 ROTTERDAM PHILHARMONIC www.concertgebouw.nl ORCHESTRA & AUGUSTIN Royal Theatre Carré HADELICH – BEETHOVEN'S Amstel 115 /125 VIOLIN CONCERTO https://carre.nl Sugarfactory The renowned violinist Augustin Lijnbaansgracht 238 Hadelich visits Amsterdam's www.sugarfactory.nl Royal Concertgebouw for a Tolhuistuin performance of Beethoven’s wellIJpromenade 2 loved Violin Concerto, which Hawww.tolhuistuin.nl delich has described as \"perfect, Ziggo Dome simple, intimate and human\". De Passage 100 Brahms’ Symphony no. 4 is also www.ziggodome.nl on the programme; Lahav Shani conducts.


SPORTS EVENTS

AJAX OPEN DAY The annual Ajax Open Day invites Ajax fans for a fun-packed FRIDAY NIGHT SKATE day celebrating the imminent Get your skates on for the week- arrival of the new football sealy Friday Night Skate, an institu- son! The free event traditionally tion in Amsterdam! Departing attracts tens of thousands of from the Vondelpark, the red-and-white supporters for skating routes take in all areas a full programme, naturally of the city, allowing you to skate including an appearance by the in places where you wouldn’t on team for the upcoming season. your own. Date TBC, Amsterdam ArenA, Every Friday, Vondelpark Pawww.ajax.nl. vilion, www.fridaynightskate. JOHAN CRUIJFF SHIELD com. Although the dust has barely ARENA MOVES settled on Euro 2016, the footTake part in the ultimate sumball world warms up for the mer workout at the Amsterdam 2016/17 season with the winners ArenA. This event offers up a of last season’s KNVB Cup and wealth of fitness fun centred the Eredivisie champions – Feyaround the challenge to climb enoord and PSV – engaging in a all the stairs in the Amsterdam pre-season battle at the ArenA. ArenA stadium as fast as you The winner takes home the first can – and all for a good cause. trophy of the year. There's also a bootcamp session, 31 Jul, Amsterdam ArenA, plus music and DJs throughout www.amsterdamarena.nl. the event. AJAX 9 July, Amsterdam ArenA, www.arenamoves.ms. The new football season officially kicks off on 5 August. BROOKS 10K From 5 Aug, Amsterdam ArenA, CHAMPIONS RUN www.ajax.nl. Coinciding with the European FRIDAY NIGHT RUN Athletics Championships, this 10km run shows off the best of Organised by the Phanos athAmsterdam. Join thousands of letics association every second runners on a city course with Friday of the month, this free stunning views and loads of engroup running event is open to tertainment. The start and finish both recreational and more seriis at the Museumplein. ous sportsters. 10 Jul, Museumplein, www. 12 Aug, Olympic Stadium, amsterdam2016.org. www.fridaynightrun.nl.

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BEATS, BALLS & BUSINESS BOSBAAN SWIM This summer you can work on Amsterdamse Bos hosts the anyour golf skills while also worknual open water swim contest, ing your business acumen. This as hardy swimmers battle the networking event takes place natural elements to compete on monthly during summer and authe Amsterdamse Bos's chilly tumn, inviting you to participate rowing lake. Competitors can in nine holes of golf followed by choose from four distances: 500 an informal networking event. m, 1 km, 1.5 km and 2 km. 20 Jul, Golfclub Amstel27 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, borgh,-www.borchland.nl. www.bosbaanswim.nl.

THE NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

© I. FRIIDROTT

Highlight sports

EUROPEAN ATHLETICS CHAMPIONSHIPS Amsterdam plays host to a grand sporting event as Europe’s very best track and field stars come to the city's Olympic Stadium. Although the 2016 Summer Olympics are undoubtedly occupying athletes' minds, the European Athletics Championships will bring out Europe's top stars as they attempt to make a habit of picking up gold medals this summer. Dutch sprinter Dafne Schippers will be the star of the show for locals, but there will be a wealth of international heroes on the field every day. 6-10 Jul, Olympic Stadium, www.amsterdam2016.org

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PART IV THE A-LIST.

EXHIBITIONS & MUSEUMS

THE ROLLING STONES ONCE IN A LIFETIME For those who relish rock 'n' For this exhibition about life and roll nostalgia, this collection of photographs capturing the young mortality, curator Nina Folkersma selected new and existing works Rolling Stones shouldn't be of eight nationally and internamissed. Shot by Terry O’Neill and tionally renowned artists: DanGered Mankowitz between 1963 and 1965, the images epitomise a ielle van Ark, Michaël Borremans, Stan Brakhage, Amie Dicke, sumptuous sort of rock star glamFolkert de Jong, Job Koelewijn, our that belongs to a bygone era. Eduard Planting Gallery, until Muntean/Rosenblum and Yehudit Sasportas. Their works range 9 Jul from paintings, sculptures and WORLD PRESS PHOTO spatial installations to film and video works. The winning images from the Oude Kerk, until 28 Aug world's largest and most prestigious annual press photography contest begin their world tour in BERNADETTE CORPORATION Amsterdam each year, presenting The Stedelijk presents newly acquired works by New York artist a reflection of trends and develcollective Bernadette Corporation, opments in photojournalism. This collection of images not only which subverts the fashion, film and magazine scenes, including presents the (at times gruesome) videos, photos, fashion designs reality of events on the world and a floor sculpture. stage, but also the beauty of life, Stedelijk Museum, until 28 Aug sports, art, science and nature. De Nieuwe Kerk, until 10 Jul WHALE WEEKS JAN DIBBETS: COLOR Learn about whales, the largest STUDIES 1976-2015 mammals in the world, and their Dutch artist Jan Dibbets (1941) is underwater environment during one of the most distinguished and Whale Weeks. In congruence with influential figures in the interna- an exhibition, it invites visitors to tional art world. This summer, the engage in various educational activities, which focus primarily on Stedelijk devotes four top-floor galleries to his recent series 'New the relationship between humans Color Studies', based on two neg- and nature and the importance of clean oceans. This family-friendly atives of car bodywork. Stedelijk Museum, until 31 Jul programme is a great way to keep children actively curious during JON RAFMAN the summer break. National Maritime Museum, 9 Canadian artist Jon Rafman, Jul-28 Aug considered a visual anthropologist, explores the social effects of LAUREL HOLLOMAN digital media with an exhibition The Museum Jan van der Togt that features video installations exhibits work from the American and interactive sculptures. artist Laurel Holloman for the Stedelijk Museum, until 14 Aug first time in the Netherlands. APARTE PIJPEN UIT ANGOLA Holloman’s use of vibrant colour ensures that emotion and Translated as 'Special Pipes From movement prevail, and a spiritual Angola', this exhibition shows dimension is often revealed; alseldom seen artefacts from the museum’s depot. As many pieces though her paintings may be abstract at first glance, it is possible feature the figurative represento recognise landscape elements tation of human features, these wooden pipes are best known for and other symbolically significant components. their expert carving work. Museum Jan van der Togt, 7 Amsterdam Pipe Museum, Jul-28 Aug until 20 Aug LIVING IN THE AMSTERDAM SCHOOL With 2016 marking 100 years of the Amsterdam School architecture movement, this exhibition sees the furniture and interior designers who were most active in this period receiving the recognition they deserve for the first

craft. Newton’s oeuvre is considered by some to be one of the most iconic of the last quarter of the 20th century. Foam, until 4 Sep BANKSY: LAUGH NOW Last summer the LionelGallery

Choice exhibit

doubtedly shaped contemporary photography and inspired generations of photographers. Today he is famed both as a chronicler of the ordinary and as a pioneer of colour photography – never stopping exploring the boundaries of photography. This retrospective covers the period 1960 to 2013, highlighting important turning points in his career. Huis Marseille, until 4 Sep DIEUWKE SPAANS Images of Amsterdam by official sketch artist Dieuwke Spaans. The exhibition also includes examples by Hamid el Kanbouhi, Amsterdam's first official artist. Amsterdam City Archives, 27 May-11 Sep

DYNASTY: PORTRAITS OF ORANGE-NASSAU Many of the families and leaders from the House of OrangeNassau decorate the walls of Amsterdam's Royal Palace and are on display this summer, providing a great overview of the dynasty's history through the centuries. The oldest portrait, painted circa 1550, portrays Anna van Egmond, the first wife of Willem I. The most recent is the coronation portrait of King Willem-Alexander and Queen Maxima from 2013. Royal Palace, 2 Jul-25 Sep PHENOMENEON - PIEKE BERGMANS - MILAN 2016 PHOTO MIRJAM BLEEKER

ANDY WARHOL Explore the art of Andy Warhol. A selection of works are shown alongside photographs by peers such as David McCabe, Billy Name, Steve Schapiro, Thomas Hoepker and Ron Galella. Museum Jan van der Togt, until 3 Jul

MASTER OF LIGHT – ROBBY MÜLLER Robby Müller, the most renowned cinematographer from the Netherlands, makes his personal archive available to the public and gives intimate access to his life in self-shot videos. Beside moving images, there are Polaroid photos, letters and notes that capture what it's like to work in the world of cinema. For a comprehensive representation of the artist, his former colleagues were invited to select fragments of his films, which are also on display. EYE Filmmuseum, until 28 Aug

Winehouse family has offered access to many of Amy's personal belongings for this collection, while the accompanying stories by her brother Alex make the experience even more personal. Jewish Historical Museum, until 4 Sep

ANNA PAULOWNA PRINSES VAN ORANJE © KONINKLIJK PALEIS AMSTERDAM

WARHOL: ROYAL The new Moco Museum on Museumplein gets going with a splash and dash of iconic Warhol works, including his Marilyn prints. Moco Museum, until 3 Jul

time. It also reveals that their expressive furnishings functioned within an exuberant, colourful environment. Stedelijk Museum, until 28 Aug

© RIJKSMUSEUM

TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS

MARTEN & OOPJEN Rembrandt painted the marriage portraits of the newly-weds Marten Soolmans and Oopjen Coppit in Amsterdam in 1634, when he was only 28. These portraits, more than two-metres high, have remained in private hands for almost four centuries until their recent purchase by the Netherlands and France. But finally you can cast your eyes on both paintings, displayed during this exhibition alongside 'The Night Watch'. Making it even more special, entrance to the museum is free on 2 July! Rijksmuseum, 2 Jul-2 Oct

DREAM OUT LOUD The Stedelijk Museum introduces the up-andcoming talent of 26 artists in their biennial large group exhibition, 'Dream out Loud', showcasing developments in the contemporary design discipline. The works explore new approaches to relevant social issues, and use materials in an innovative way. Stedelijk director Beatrix Ruf will choose a selection of the works on exhibition for the museum’s permanent collection. Stedelijk Museum, 26 Aug-1 Jan

MODERN JAPAN Glimpse the dynamic changes that were occurring in Japanese culture during the first half of the 20th century thanks to this stunning collection of print art. As modern Japan grappled to define its cultural and political relationships with China and the West, art imitated life. The Japanese prints collected in the exhibition portray both the nation’s appetite for innovation and the preservation of their unique artistic traditions. Rijksmuseum, until 11 Sep JOURNEY IN TIME. HISTORY & ROYALTY Experience the main events in the history of De Nieuwe Kerk, right where they took place. Six centuries come to life as you encounter Holland’s greatest naval heroes and discover the ceremonies of kings and queens. The exhibition features six video walls, light projections, an audio guide, a wireless photo shoot and celestial sounds from the Netherlands’ largest historic pipe organ. Every day there is live music in the church. De Nieuwe Kerk, 16 Jul-11 Sep EXCITEMENT – AN EXHIBITION BY RUDI FUCHS The Stedelijk has invited Rudi Fuchs, a former director of the museum, to curate an exhibition that looks back on his career. Fuchs revisits the collections he's built throughout his lengthy career and his contribution to the development of the Dutch state art collection. In doing so, he presents a large selection of the works he acquired for the Stedelijk Museum, Van Abbemuseum and Gemeentemuseum Den Haag. Stedelijk Museum, until 18 Sep

ENCOUNTERS WITH THE ORIENT Get a taste of the Far East with an exhibition that illustrates the enormous influence that Eastern languages had in the Netherlands HELMUT NEWTON – launched a successf during the 17th century. You can A RETROSPECTIVE ul Banksy exhibition in Amsteralso gain insight into the ingeAdmire the work of Helmut Newdam. Now they're picking it up nious distribution system that deAMY WINEHOUSE: ton (1920-2004), a legendary again at their new location, show- livered the artefacts from William A FAMILY PORTRAIT photographer best known for his casing street art examples like his Flinders Petrie’s 20th century Looking beyond the hype, this collaborations with French Vogue 'Greenfields Beans'. Egyptian excavations worldwide exhibition presents an intimate and the fashion industry. The Moco Museum, until 4 Sep – thereby making it possible for portrayal of the life of songstress retrospective features more than modern man to reconstruct anSTEPHEN SHORE: Amy Winehouse, emphasising 200 photographs ranging from cient cultures. RETROSPECTIVE her passion for music and fashion, his rare to well-known works, and Allard Pierson Museum, as well as the history of her Jewish is a testament to the complexity The work of the American phountil 18 Sep family and her school days. The and multi-faceted nature of his tographer Stephen Shore has un-


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jul & aug 2016

SECOND SKIN Museum Van Loon and Foam collaborate on ‘Second Skin’, an exhibition that highlights five contemporary artists who explore the human body through the mediums of photography and film, and shed light on self-representation. Using themes like selfies and digital personalities in social media, the artists investigate how the digital age has helped us to become estranged with our identities. Museum van Loon, until 18 Sep WORLD WAR TWO TODAY Since 2008, World Press Photo-winning photographer Roger Cremers has been collecting images throughout Europe of re-enactments, group tourism to former concentration camps and excavating sites of victims of the battle of Stalingrad. In doing so, he's seeking to understand why, the further WWII recedes into the past, the more intensely memories of it are evoked. Dutch Resistance Museum, until 25 Sep ADRIAEN VAN DE VELDE Approximately 25 paintings and 40 preparatory drawings completed by Adriaen van de Velde (1636-1672) will be exhibited, offering a rare glimpse of a 17th-century Dutch landscape painter at work. Although this Amsterdam native died at the young age of 35, he managed to produce many paintings that earned him posthumous fame. Rijksmuseum, until 25 Sep ON THE VERGE OF INSANITY Van Gogh’s mental instability has long been fuel for the imagination and is a renowned aspect of his character. That's why, for the first time, the Van Gogh Museum dedicates an exhibition to this topic, shedding new light on his illness and its impact upon his work, based on paintings, drawings, letters and rarely shown documents. Van Gogh Museum, 15 Jul-25 Sep CONSTANT. SPACE + COLOR This collections shows the experimental route Dutch artist Constant followed between his Cobra period and the New Babylon project in the 1950s. It features large-scale architectural constructions created in collaboration with the likes of Gerrit Rietveld and Aldo van Eyck. Cobra Museum, until 25 Sep PENONE IN THE RIJKSMUSEUM GARDENS This fourth edition features the sculpture and installations of the Italian ‘Arte Povera’ sculptor Giuseppe Penone. He's best known for his Alberi tree sculptures – sturdy wooden trunks and planks, which he peels apart, growth ring by growth ring, to expose the core of the wood. Rijksmuseum, until 1 Oct AVERY SINGER – SCENES The first museum solo exhibition in Europe of the American artist Avery Singer offers a comprehensive view of the artist’s

work since 2012 and includes a vast installation that was enthusiastically received at Art Basel in 2015. Stedelijk Museum, until 2 Oct GABRIEL LESTER – UNRESOLVED A musician and filmmaker turned visual artist, 'Unresolved' shows fragments of projects that Gabriel Lester and Raimundas Malasauskas jointly developed, together with guest appearances, special guests, dialogues, mixes and re-mixes created, all created between 1996 and 2016. De Appel arts centre, until 2 Oct RHYTHM & ROOTS This musically-inspired exhibition addresses a cultural revolution that spread through Africa and the Caribbean, delivering genres such as jazz, blues, and reggae. Cherished relics like guitars from Jimi Hendrix and Chuck Berry, the leather motorbike jacket from Elvis and James Brown's cape can all be seen. Tropenmuseum, until 30 Oct ARITA PORCELAIN TODAY The centuries-old tradition of porcelain manufacture in the Japanese town of Arita has entered a new era. Under the supervision of the Dutch design duo Scholten & Baijings and the Japanese designer Teruhiro Yanagihara, an elite group of international designers have produced a number of new ceramic creations that can be seen in this exhibition. Rijksmuseum, until 31 Oct ARITA HOUSE Situated adjacent to the Rijksmuseum, the aim of the Arita House is to connect contemporary Japanese and Dutch culture. Its exhibition shows the design and production process behind the new porcelain items from the '2016/ collection'. Arita House Amsterdam, until 30 Dec

St. Petersburg to Amsterdam, offering spectators a unique glimpse into the life of Europe’s longest-reigning empress. Many of her possessions, such as jewellery, dresses, and other fine artefacts, help to unravel her decadent life. Hermitage Amsterdam, until 15 Jan VAN KROT TOT WONINGWET These specialists of the Amsterdam School architecture movement examine the living situation of workers in the Netherlands, both before and after the introduction of the Housing Act in 1901. Museum Het Schip, permanent

PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS ANNE FRANK HOUSE Prinsengracht 263 is where Anne Frank lived in hiding with her family for more than two years during World War II. Now converted into a museum, it contains a sobering exhibition about persecution. BODY WORLDS After captivating visitors the world over, the oftcontroversial exhibition of human specimens including whole-body plastinates, organs and translucent body slices features an extensive selection of authentic human specimens. EYE FILM MUSEUM Cinematography museum with an internationally renowned collection of films covering the whole history of cinema. GEELVINCK HINLOPEN HOUSE A decadent canal-side mansion showcasing 17th-century patrician wealth. Highlights include ornamental gardens and sumptuous themed salons.

EMIGRANTS AT LLOYD HOTEL Between 1921 and 1935 the Lloyd Hotel served as an emigrant hotel for shipping company Royal Dutch Lloyd. Via the hotel, thousands of Eastern Europeans emigrated to Brazil to work on the coffee plantations. The project shows migration has always been a part of human life and is thus very much related to the current (European) reality. Lloyd Hotel, until 31 Dec

HET GRACHTENHUIS (MUSEUM OF THE CANALS) A tribute to the Canal District, with multimedia exhibitions showing how the engineering marvel was built on swampland during the 17th Century.

ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to experience the ways in which it is possible to generate energy from the wind, water and sun, using special sculptures and installations to demonstrate the techniques. Access is free. permanent, NEMO Science Museum, www.e-nemo.nl

HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM Located in the Hendrika Maria, a former freighter moored on the Prinsengracht, the Houseboat Museum gives a fun insight into life on Amsterdam’s canals – a uniquely Dutch way of life.

CATHERINE, THE GREATEST A collection of more than 300 paintings, sculptures and personal objects of Catherine the Great make their way from

HORTUS BOTANICUS For nearly four centuries, Amsterdam’s Hortus Botanicus has regaled visitors with its lush greenhouses and exotic plants. It is one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world.

ONS’ LIEVE HEER OP SOLDER (OUR LORD IN THE ATTIC) This clandestine church in a 17th-century canal house attic dates back to the Reformation, when Catholics were not permitted to practice their faith in public.

REMBRANDTHUIS (REMBRANDT HOUSE) The house that Rembrandt called home for nearly 20 years boasts an impressive collection of drawings and paintings by the Old Master himself as well as by his contemporaries. The Rembrandthuis is also home to 290 of Rembrandt’s etchings with an alternating selection. RIJKSMUSEUM Visit the state museum and embark on a journey through Dutch art and history from the Middle Ages and Renaissance right up until the 20th Century. HET SCHEEPVAART MUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) The National Maritime Museum comprises a series of small exhibitions exploring various elements of maritime life. Moored outside is the Amsterdam, an exact replica of a famous Dutch East India Company ship. KONINKLIJK PALEIS (ROYAL PALACE) The Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) on Amsterdam’s Dam Square is one of three palaces still in use by the Dutch royal family. When the palace is not being used by the royal family, it is open to the public. STEDELIJK MUSEUM The museum’s permanent collection is on display in the beautifully restored historical building. Half of the ground floor is reserved for the design collection. TROPENMUSEUM The ‘Museum of the Tropics’ has eight geographically-themed permanent exhibitions and an ongoing series of temporary presentations, including both modern and traditional visual arts and photographic work. WILLET-HOLTHUYSEN MUSEUM The only completely period furnished canal-side house in Amsterdam has a remarkable collection of Golden Age art and silverware. ADDRESSES Allard Pierson Museum Oude Turfmarkt 127 www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl Amsterdam City Archives Vijzelstraat 32 www.stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl Amsterdam Museum Kalverstraat 92 www.amsterdammuseum.nl Anne Frank House Prinsengracht 263-267 www.annefrank.org Museum of Bags & Purses Herengracht 573 www.tassenmuseum.nl Beurs Van Berlage Damrak 243 www.beursvanberlage.com Biblical Museum Herengracht 366-368 www.bijbelsmuseum.nl Body Worlds Damrak 66 www.bodyworlds.nl De Appel Arts Centre

Prins Hendrikkade 142 www.deappel.nl De Brakke Grond Nes 45 www.brakkegrond.nl Cobra Museum Sandbergplein 1 Amstelveen www.cobra-museum.nl Diamond Museum Amsterdam Paulus Potterstraat 8 diamantmuseumamsterdam.nl Dutch Press Museum Zeeburgerkade 10 www.persmuseum.nl Dutch Resistance Museum Plantage Kerklaan 61 www.verzetsmuseum.org EYE Filmmuseum IJpromenade 1 www.eyefilm.nl FOAM Keizersgracht 609 www.foam.org Geelvinck Hinlopen House Keizersgracht 633 www.geelvinck.nl Van Gogh Museum Paulus Potterstraat 7 www.vangoghmuseum.nl Het Grachtenhuis (Museum of the Canals) Herengracht 386 www.hetgrachtenhuis.nl Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl Hortus Botanicus Plantage Middenlaan 2A www.dehortus.nl Houseboat Museum Prinsengracht 296K www.houseboatmuseum.nl Huis Marseille Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl Museum Jan van der Togt Dorpsstraat 50, Amstelveen www.jvdtogt.nl Jewish Historical Museum Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1 www.jhm.nl Madame Tussauds Dam 20 www.madametussauds.com/ Amsterdam Micropia Artisplein, Plantage Kerklaan 38 www.micropia.nl/en De Nieuwe Kerk Dam Square www.nieuwekerk.nl Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic) Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 www.opsolder.nl Oudekerk Oudekerksplein 23 www.oudekerk.nl Rembrandt House Museum Jodenbreestraat 4 www.rembrandthuis.nl Rijksmuseum Jan Luijkenstraat 1 www.rijksmuseum.nl Royal Palace Amsterdam Dam square www.paleisamsterdam.nl Het Scheepvaartmuseum (National Maritime Museum) Kattenburgerplein 1 www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl Stedelijk Museum Museumplein 10 www.stedelijk.nl Tropenmuseum Linnaeusstraat 2 www.tropenmuseum.nl Willet-Holthuysen Museum Herengracht 605 www.willetholthuysen.nl


64

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ZELFPORTRET ALS SCHILDER © VAN GOGH MUSEUM

SINGER GIOVANCA WITH BLUES LEGEND B.B. KING © GIOVANCA: CEES BEUMER - © BB KING: GETTY IMAGES

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VAN GOGH MUSEUM ON THE VERGE OF INSANITY Until 25 September

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TROPENMUSEUM RHYTHM & ROOTS Until 30 October

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66

PART IV THE A-LIST.

GALLERIES CURATED BY AMSTERDAM ART. FOR A COMPLETE OVERVIEW OF EXHIBITIONS, EVENTS AND WEEKLY TIPS VISIT WWW.AMSTERDAMART.COM

1. RELATIONS AND SLOW TIME

At the centre of Craigie Horsfield’s life work is the idea of relation, stressing the fact that encounters, meetings and conversations are essential components within our lives. The artist engages with his models, creating intimate portraits that are always unique rather than printed in editions.

UNTIL 30 SEP The Merchant House Herengracht 254

2. FERNWEH

Aldo van den Broek creates paintings and sculptures out of wasted materials he finds in the streets and abandoned places. By putting together scraps and pieces of cloth, wood and cardboard, and then tearing it apart again, he constantly transforms his works until they reach their final appearance.

UNTIL 30 JULY Galerie Ron Mandos Prinsengracht 282

3. WHAT ARE WE GONNA PAINT?

Art works, in themselves mute objects, can express much more than words can truly reveal. The exhibition What are we gonna paint? is an investigation of the ways in which paintings activate reactions and emotions.

UNTIL 30 JULY Annet Gelink Gallery Laurierstraat 187-189

4. RADICAL COLLECTING

Since 1985 art collector Frans Oomen has gathered over 1500 artworks made in editions. From assemblages, to ready-mades, to ceramics: the exhibition shows a large variety of works from wellknown artists such as Nan Goldin, Richard Prince, Chris Offili and Jeff Koons. UNTIL 30 JUL C&H art space Tweede Kostverlorenkade 50

5. EAST OF EDEN

Travel addicts and art enthusiasts can’t miss East of Eaden, a collaborative project between artists Grear Patterson and Yves Scherer which unfolds over multiple stages and European cities in the month of June. The exhibition at Boetzelaer|Nispen, which will be on view until the 30th of July, is all about going places, a nomadic lifestyle and the shared experience of traveling.

UNTIL 30 JUL Boetzelaer|Nispen De Clercqstraat 64

FILM FAVOURITES MANGLEHORN

feature).

It has been a long, long time since we saw Al Pacino in something really decent (Jack and Jill anyone?) Thankfully, Manglehorn seems like a step in the right direction with Pacino as a gruff locksmith pining for the one who got away. Holly Hunter co-stars as a sweet cashier who gets treated to the lousiest date of her life.

18 to 27 August www.worldcinemaamsterdam.nl

THE FAMILY FANG

Directed by: Michel Franco Release: 4 August

Directed by: David Gordon Green Release: 14 July

After his outrageously funny and foul-mouthed directing debut Bad Words, actor/director Jason ‘Arrested Development’ Bateman shows us he’s no one-trick-pony. In this second outing as a director he also plays a brother tp sister Nicole Kidman, who together travel back to their family home when their famous artist parents (Christopher Walken, Maryann Plunkett) suddenly go missing. Directed by: Jason Bateman Release: 21 July

ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS: THE MOVIE

Do we really need a movie about the tragically misguided travails of our two favourite British female drunkards Edina (Jennifer Saunders) and Patsy (Joanna Lumley)? Of course we do, sweetie darling! When Eddy accidentally kills supermodel Kate Moss, both girls go into hiding in France. Also with Julia Sawalha, Jane Horrocks and a slew of cameos, from Jon Hamm, Joan Collins to Baby Spice.

CHRONIC

After his take-no-prisoner high-school bullying drama Después de Lucía (After Lucia), Mexican director Michel Franco returns with the much more understated, but no less devastating drama Chronic. Tim Roth mesmerizes as home-care nurse David, who may take his job of taking care of his terminally ill patients a tad too seriously.

THE FORBIDDEN ROOM

Not much makes sense in Guy Maddin and Evan Johnson’s The Forbidden Room, and it’s not meant to. You just have to dive into the rabbit hole (which comes out into another rabbit hole, into another rabbit hole) and go, as they say, with the flow. With Udo Kier, Mathieu Amalric, Geraldine Chaplin, Charlotte Rampling & the guy from Nikita (the Peta Wilson one). Directed by: Guy Maddin, Evan Johnson Release: 4 August

CAFÉ SOCIETY

Directed by: Mandie Fletcher Release: 21 July

Let’s be honest: the movies by Woody Allen keep having more and more in common with Ben & Jerry’s ice cream: every new installment is pleasant enough, but not very adventurous. For Café Society, Woody has once again found an alter ego in Jesse Eisenberg, who, in 1930s Hollywood, falls for the lovely assistant (Kirsten Stewart) of his big shot producer uncle.

WORLD CINEMA AMSTERDAM

ELVIS & NIXON

Filmhuis Rialto – and several other venues – play host to the seventh edition of the World Cinema Amsterdam, a celebration of all cinema from Asia, Africa and Latin-America. This year’s central theme will be Turkish cinema, with special focus on young female directors and on films about Kurdish culture. With open-air screenings at Vondelpark Openluchttheater and Marie Heinekenplein (see main film

Directed by: Woody Allen Release: 11 August

Apparently, the most requested photograph in the National Archives is the one where Elvis shakes hands with Nixon. But how did this photo op come about? That’s where the motion picture Elvis & Nixon comes in. Starring Kevin Spacey and Michael Shannon as the titular characters (we’ll leave it up to you to guess who’s playing who).

Directed by: Liza Johnson Release: 25 August


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CLUBBING & NIGHTLIFE 22 FEST Over the past few years 22 Tracks has developed into FREEDOM OPEN AIR one of the most exciting niche FESTIVAL streaming services where tastemaker DJs across all genres Techno is the keyword at this share their favourite tunes Liberation Day celebration of the moment. Last year, 22 event. International headliners Tracks boldly entered the Amare Perc & Truss supported by sterdam festival scene with a JP Enfant, Clouds, Rod line up of relatively unknown & Tripeo, Haeken and names. As was to be expected, Ringo (live). this year’s bill is very diverse Thur 5 May, Navaritaweg 48, with third generation Detroit 12:00-23:00 techno artist Kyle Hall, Swedish PITCH FESTIVAL DAY ONE producer Kornél Kovács, local leftfield jock Elias Mazian, On the first day, former Diplo protégé Santigold will showcase Dutch up and coming MC Sevn Alias, Eindhoven’s synth pop her new unpigeonholable mix sensation Klyne and Belgian of ska, punk and rebellious jazz-fusion and hiphop collecpop, alongside one of the bigtive STUFF. gest names in new pop music: Fri 22 Jul, Diemerbos, 13.00Grimes, London jazz-house 23.00, €35 producer Floating Points, Italian DJ Tennis B2B, local 22 FEST AFTERPARTY up & coming jock Job Jobse, Jameszoo, Makam, Cinnaman Official afterparty of the second edition of the festival put on by and many others. streaming service 22 Tracks. Fri 1 Jul, Westergasterrein , Fri 22 Jul, Canvas, 23.0014.30-03.00, €45 04.00, €10 CONTACT 03 ENCORE THROWBACK Local veteran jocks play house, EDITION techno and garage in this cosy Hip hop and R&B classics spun squat-like club: Kreed, Shonn by Fullscale, Irwan, Waxfriend Delicious and Toliman. and Prime. Sat 2 Jul, OT 301, 23.00Sat 23 Jul, De Melkweg, 24.0004.00, €15 05.00, €15 ENCORE PULL UP ENCORE FRESHMEN Encore takes you to Jamaica SHOWCASE tonight with strictly bashment bangers on the decks. DJs Dieux Super fresh rookie MCs, selected by Encore, take the stage Pére, Madbwoy, Prime, SMP, Waxfriend and MC 4ShoBang- during this Amsterdam classic for danceable hip hop and R&B. ers. Amartey, Ismael & Thomson Sat 2 July, De Melkweg, 24.00Jay-Way, Jowners and Lil MG. 05.00, €15 Sat 30 Jul, De Melkweg, BUITENGEWOON 21.00, €15. Dekmantel’s Casper Tielrooij and Red Light Radio’s Orpheu MILKSHAKE FESTIVAL DAY 1 First day of this gay friendly The Wizard play a mix of advenfestival full of good vibes and turous 4/4 techno, electro and laughter with DJs Joost van house beats. Bellen, Larry Tee, Beesmunt Fri 8 July, Cruquiusgilde WareSoundsystem, Wannabe A Star house, 23.00-06.00, €14 and many others playing a sunENCORE SING A ny mix of all sorts of beats. LOOOOONG Sat 30 Jul, Westerpark, 12.0022.00, €36 The biggest hits in hip hop and R&B with DJs Waxfriend, FlaMILKSHAKE FESTIVAL DAY 2 va, Prime and Mr. Wonder. Gay friendly festival with sets Sat 9 Jul, De Melkweg, 24.00by Sandrien B2B Carlos Valdes, 05.00, €15 Benny Rodrigues, Lacroix, MUSIC IS MY SANCTUARY Groovemaster Johnson and many more. Special guest DJ Gayance out of Montreal usually plays a mix Sun 31 Jul, Westerpark, 12.0022.00, €36 of obscure French grooves, calypso and abstract beats. Dance floor beats like they don’t play DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL DAY 1 The line up on this first day of ‘em every day! the most spectacular electronic Fri 15 Jul, Canvas, 23.00music festival in the country 04.00, €10 consists of a mix of house and ERICK MORILLO techno names plus post-punk Quintessential Rembrantplein- bonus ESG, a funky New Yorkclub Escape invites house music based family band whose simple bass lines and melodies have icon Erick Morillo (of 1993's 'I like to move it' fame) for a long, been sampled heavily since the sweaty night of award-winning 1980s. Fri 5 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, 12.00-23.00, €45, €120 for beats. 3 days Fri 15 Jul, Club Escape, 23.0005.00, €25 DEKMANTEL NIGHT 1 ENCORE GIRLS NIGHT OUT A more than decent festival after-party with a line-up unHip hop, dancehall, R&B, related to Dekmantel’s daytime urban and trap with DJs Jaël, Prime, Snelle Jelle, Waxfriend program. With a heavy bill that includes obscure Detroit techno and MC Taylor. artist DJ Bone, The Hague’s Sat 16 Jul, De Melkweg, 24.00producer of dark electro I-F, 05.00, €15, women free before house/wave producer Legowelt, 01.00.

CLUBBING

DEKMANTEL NIGHT 2 von Oswald (known for his productions under the Maurizio Much lighter in atmosphere than last night, Dekmantel Fes- alias), happy-go-lucky German tival’s second after party boasts techno and house jock DJ Koze, much-hyped new kid on the house and disco-heavy sets by Antal, Hunee and Soichi Tera- block Call Super, soulful Motor City Drum Ensemble and Deda. An unexpected bonus is the DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL DAY 2 appearance of ambient house troit’s Robert Hood. The amazing second day feaSun 7 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, legends The Orb. tures a heavy Detroit electro live Sat 6 Aug, De Melkweg, 23.0012.00-23.00, €45, €120 for 3 set by Aux 88, a more uplifting days 06.00, €26.75 Glasgow’s master of pumping-house Jackmaster, this club night is as dark as the night and not for the faint-hearted. Fri 5 Aug, De Melkweg, 23.0006.00, €26.75

Choice clubbing

DEKMANTEL NIGHT 3 The disco-themed very last after party features DJ sets by Tony Humphries and Sadar Badar while Black Devil Disco Club play a live gig. Sun 7 Aug, De Melkweg, 23.0006.00, €26.75 DANE Abstract instrumental hip hop, disco and boogie by DJ Dane of Canada’s Common Edit label. Fri 12 Aug, Canvas, 23.0004.00, €10 MAJOR LEAGUE Classic local drum ‘n’ bass night Fri 12 Aug, De Melkweg, 23.0006.00, €20

DE ZOMERNACHT Like your clubbing editor, the people behind Amsterdam’s avant garde clubbing space De School aren’t particularly keen on planning their nocturnal celebrations too far ahead. To bring spontaneity back to the dance floor, they’ve decided that during the summer months of July and August, line-ups won’t be announced with more than a week’s notice, sometimes no more than an hour before the venue opens. Every Friday and Saturday, De School, 23.00-06.00, €15

PITCH FESTIVAL DAY TWO Easily the best of the two days with the godfather of instrumental hip hop DJ Shadow headlining, plus super hot US soul singer Anderson.Paak, top-notch Amsterdam-based afro-tropical ensemble Jungle By Night, musical chameleon Aardvarck, Swedish techno legend The Field, local Detroit techno/electro jock Robert Bergman. Sat 2 July, Westergasterrein , 14.30-03.00, €45

DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL OPENING NIGHT This year’s line up is more incredible than ever before with legends of the UK industrial underground Cabaret Voltaire, Brazilian fusion jazz act Azymuth, afrobeat inventor Tony Allen, dubtechno producer Shackleton with Ernesto Tomasini, and much more. Thu 4 August, various locations 16.45-00.30, €50 (access to all locations)

VOGUE INTERVENTION old school electro DJ set by legPRIDE AFTERPARTY end The Egyptian Lover, Boston house-producing duo Beautiful A few more moves following on Swimmers, Pender Street StepAmsterdam’s Gay Pride. pers, activist Chicago-based DJ Sat 6 August, Canvas, 23.00The Black Madonna, cult synth 04.00, €10 music producer Palmbomen II, DEKMANTEL FESTIVAL DAY 3 model cum wave/electro jock Nina Kraviz, plus several local Dekmantel’s last day is arguDekmantel usual suspects. ably the least spectacular but Sat 6 Aug, Amsterdamse Bos, nevertheless boasts a more than 12.00-23.00, €45, €120 for 3 decent techno line up featuring days Berghain’s Ben Klock, Sandrien and Marcel Dettmann, Moritz

APPELSAP FESTIVAL Amsterdam’s longest running hip hop, urban and beats festival with BBC 1’s Benji B, plus Amsterdam’s local heroes Cinnaman and Vic Crezée. Sat 13 August, Flevopark, 12.00-23.00, €39 APPELSAP AFTERPARTY DJs spin hip hop and neighbouring genres to people who haven’t had enough after the Appelsap festival earlier today at Flevopark. Sat 13 August, Canvas, 23.0004.00, €10 STRAF_WERK FESTIVAL A house and techno festival catering to those who like to raise their firts when the beat drops. Tom Trago, Paul Woodford, Joris Voorn, Eats Everything, De Sluwe Vos, Alex Niggeman and others play druggy beats. Sat 20 August, Sportpark Riekerhaven, 12.00-23.00, €36 ENCORE GIRLS NIGHT OUT Resident DJs spin hip hop, dancehall & R&B. Sat 20 August, De Melkweg, 24.00-05.00, €15, girls free before 01.00 ENCORE Amsterdam’s biggest hip hop, R&B and dancehall night. Sat 27 August, De Melkweg, 24.00-05.00, €15 ENCORE FESTIVAL The annual 10,000-capacity festival by the crew who do the weekly hip hop night at De Melkweg. A sweet line up including Joey Bada$$, Fetty Wap, Kehlani, Baauer, Metro Boomin, Sevn Alias and Ganz. Sun 28 August, NDSM, 12.0023.00, €44 VOLTT LOVES SUMMER If you didn’t know what techno is, your prejudices would quite likely be confirmed at your first Voltt night; this is techno at banging and minimal levels. Sun 28 August, NDSM, 12.0023.00, €44


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advertorial

A-LIST. PART IV THE A-LIST

How to cycle (safely!) in Amsterdam Learn the art of cycling like a true Amsterdammer with Maxim Hartman If you want to pass someone, use your bell, pass him and say ‘thank you’.

Everybody knows that the best way to see Amsterdam is by bike. It’s how the locals get around, and it’s often faster than waiting for buses and trams, and all the stops they make along the way. Plus, on a sunny day, there’s no more pleasant way to get a little exercise. However, Amsterdam’s bike paths are packed with more than 800,000 bikes – at least one for every resident. Meaning: for newcomers, tackling bike traffic head on can be a little…intimidating. Dangerous, even. Never fear, Maxim Hartman is here!

THE BIKE INSTRUCTOR In his best stereotypical Dutch accent, the funnyman’s new online video tackles the safety tips you need to know, from the serious (like a reminder to never ride in front of a tram, and tips on making sure your wheels don’t get stuck in the tram tracks) to the silly (such as the merits of keeping an emergency potato in your pants). Everyone who steps on a bike in Amsterdam should check out this video first. You’ll find his ‘The Bike Instructor’ video on the I amsterdam YouTube page. You’ll also find his tips in folders all around town. Better yet, in these same spots you’ll find maps that will help you tackle the city’s 400 km in bike paths, with three highlighted 26-29 km routes through the city’s North, Nieuw-West and Eastern Docklands that blend Amsterdam’s signature mix of modern architecture and green oases.

Always choose the right side of the road. If the picture of the bicycle is upside down, then you are on the wrong side of the road.

Don’t cycle while using a mobile phone or headphones.

Let others know what you’re planning to do: use hand signals and make eye contact.

Be aware of trams and taxis (they often have right of way), lorries, mopeds and of course other cyclists.

Cross tram rails at right angles so your wheels don’t get caught

LIFE-SAVING TIPS Just remember not to use your phone while you bike – one of the most common causes of accidents in Amsterdam. Stick to the cycle paths (on the right side of the road) whenever possible. And always stop at pedestrian crossings. ‘Even if the people crossing are very ugly or old.’ Thanks, Maxim.

Follow the traffic regulations


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KIDS & FAMILY AMSTERDAM DUNGEON The Amsterdam Dungeon brings 500 years of dark history to life with 11 shows and seven actors in one terrifying experience! Rokin 78, www.the-dungeons.nl. Open daily 11:00-17:00 (last tour); €22, ages 4-15 €18. AMSTERDAMSE BOS This huge park and forest is one of Amsterdam’s super secrets despite being three times the size of New York’s Central Park. Visitor Centre, Bosbaanweg 5, Amstelveen, www.amsterdamsebos.nl. Various times & prices. ANNE FRANK HOUSE This is the hiding place where Anne Frank wrote her diary during World War II. Features quotations from the diary, photographs, films and original objects – including Anne’s diary. Suitable for children over 10. Prinsengracht 263-267, www.annefrank.org. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00; €9, ages 10-17 €4.50. ARTIS ROYAL ZOO Admire the tropical fish in the Aquarium and travel through time in the Planetarium. See giraffes resting amongst the zebras and wildebeests. Surround yourself with hundreds of fluttering butterflies in the Butterfly Pavilion or stroll through the historical park with its centuries-old trees and a multitude of plants. Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, www.artis.nl. Open daily 9:0018:00; €20.50, ages 3-9 €17. BLEEKMOLENS RACE PLANET Burn off some steam and rubber at this indoor go-karting track. Minimum age for karting is 8 years old. Helmets and protective clothing are included. There’s also a large playground, bowling alley and restaurant. Herwijk 10, www.raceplanet. com. Open Mon-Fri 13:0023:00, Sat & Sun 12:00-23:00; various packages available. COBRA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART In addition to interesting exhibitions of modern and contemporary art, the museum also offers a free Children’s Studio. Sandbergplein 1, Amstelveen, www.cobra-museum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00; adults €9.50, ages 6-18 €6; Children’s Studio Sun 11:0014:00; free. HORTUS BOTANICUS A refuge from the bustle of the city, highlights include a palm and a butterfly greenhouse, four beehives, temporary exhibitions and a café. Plantage Middenlaan 2A, www.dehortus.nl. Open Mon-Sat, 10:00-17:00; €8.50, ages 5-14 €4.50. HET TWISKE This nature reserve and recreational area is situated north of

Amsterdam, between Zaanstad and Purmerend. In addition to large playgrounds, a beach and plenty of green space, you can rent canoes, row or pedal boats, and sailboats. www.hettwiske.nl. KINDERKOOKKAFÉ The ‘Kids Cook Café’ is a delightful and unique restaurant located in the Vondelpark. Children (ages 5 to 12) do everything to help run the restaurant, including cooking, serving, bartending, tidying up and running the register. Vondelpark 6b, www.kinderkookkafe.nl. Open daily 10:00-17:00; various prices. DE KLIMMUUR Rock climbing in the centre of Amsterdam. Dijksgracht 2, www.deklimmuur.nl. Various times & prices. LOVERS POWERZONE Strike it big at one of the six glow-in-the-dark bowling lanes, or pit yourself against the enemy at laser-tag. De Ruyterkade 153, www.loverspowerzone.nl. Various times & prices. MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM The collection of wax figures includes Brad Pitt, the outrageous Lady Gaga and the brilliant Einstein. Dam 20, www.madametussauds.nl. Open daily 10:00-18:30; €22, ages 5-15 €18, under 5 free. MIRANDABAD SWIMMING POOL A subtropical swimming complex with a beach, palm trees, several indoor pools and wave machines. Other amenities include squash courts, a solarium and a restaurant. De Mirandalaan 9, www.mirandabad.nl. Various times & prices. PANCAKE BOAT A cosy boat, all-you-can-eat pancakes and a view of Amsterdam’s waters make the Pancake Boat a great activity for all ages. Ms van Riemsdijkweg opposite nr 38, www.pannenkoekenboot.nl. Various times & prices. HET SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM (NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM) This nautical museum has a variety of exhibitions designed just for kids. Kattenburgerplein 1, www. scheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open daily 9:00-17:00; €15, ages 5-17 €7.50, under 5 free. SCIENCE CENTER NEMO NEMO introduces young and old to science and technology. Oosterdok 2, www.e-nemo.nl. Open daily 10:00-17:30; €15, under 4 free. TROPENMUSEUM JUNIOR The Tropenmuseum is renowned for its Junior building's interactive exhibitions introduc-

ing children to new cultures in a playful way. Linnaeusstraat 2, www.tropenmuseum.nl. Open Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Mondays during public & school holidays 10:0017:00; €12.50, ages 4-18 €8, under 4 free.

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Highlight ARTIS

TUNFUN An indoor paradise for children under 12. Kids can enjoy hours of fun in a huge 4,000m2 indoor playground. There’s something for every age and interest. Mr Visserplein 7, www.tunfun.nl. Open daily 10:00-18:00; ages 1-12 €8.50, accompanying adults free. VERZETSMUSEUM JUNIOR A Junior wing shows young visitors (9-14 years) how four peers lived during wartime. Verzetsmuseum, Plantage Kerklaan 61, www.verzetsmuseum. org. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00; Sat-Mon 11:00-17:00; €8, ages 7-15 €4.50, under 7 free. WOESTE WESTEN PLAYGROUND An outdoor playground where kids can explore, dig, climb, play in the sand, and check out the frogs and bugs. Westerpark, www.woestewesten. nl. Playground supervisor is present Mon & Tue 12:0018:00, Wed-Sun 11:00-18:00.

EVENTS JUNIOR GRACHTENFESTIVAL An integral part of the Grachtenfestival Amsterdam (Canal Festival), the Junior Grachtenfestival offers all kinds of fun musical activities to under 12s. Various events and activities are organised with the aim of introducing children to classical music: storytelling, theatre performances, games and workshops and more! 12-21 Aug, various locations, www.grachtenfestival.nl. UITMARKT Annually attracting more than 450,000 visitors, the festival features more than 450 performances by some 2,000 artists. From classical to kid-friendly, hip-hop to dance and theatre to jazz, in addition to performances at the festival's large outdoor venues, there's also the Uitmarkt Junior for the kids. 26-28 Aug, Museumplein & Leidseplein, www.uitmarkt.nl IAMART: DUTCH MASTERS The new ‘IamArt’ exhibition at one of Amsterdam’s most fun and interactive attractions allows you to literally step inside the masterpieces of Dutch Masters like Mondriaan, Van Gogh and Rembrandt. At Madame Tussauds, www. madametussauds.com/Amsterdam. SUNDAY MARKET Artists, designers and craftspeople flog their wares and delicious food & drink is on offer to fuel your shopping frenzy. There is always some form of enter-

ARTIS, ©RONALD VAN WEEREN

VENUES

FAMILY GUIDED TOUR AT ARTIS AMSTERDAM ROYAL ZOO The Aldabra Giant Tortoise is one of the largest tortoises in the world. But what does this grazer eat? Join an exciting family guided tour of the edible garden and discover what the animals at ARTIS Amsterdam Royal Zoo eat. The family tour is every Saturday in July and August from 4.30 pm and is offered in both Dutch and English. No reservations required. ARTIS Amsterdam Royal Zoo is open daily. Tickets are €17 for children aged 3 to 9 and €20.50 for adults. tainment or crafty workshop on and plenty of kids' clothing and toy stalls to browse. 10 Jul & 7 Aug, Westergasfabriek, www.sundaymarket.nl. KERMIS (FUNFAIR) Whether you’re one for being flung around high above the city, racing around in the dodgems, being spooked in the haunted house or simply sightseeing from the top of a Ferris wheel, the fairground is guaranteed great fun at any age. 9 Jul-7 Aug, Nelson Mandelapark. ENERGETICA This new outdoor exhibition on the roof of NEMO invites you to learn how to generate energy from the wind, water and sun through special sculptures and installations to demonstrate the techniques. These interactive exhibits include apparatuses such as sundials, windmills and solar panels. Access is free. At NEMO Science Museum, www.e-nemo.nl VONDELPARK OPEN AIR THEATRE Steeped in musical and theatrical history, every weekend all summer Amsterdam’s famous Vondelpark presents a programme packed with dance, cabaret, children's theatre, stand-up comedy and music. Every Fri-Sun in Jul & Aug, www.openluchttheater.nl. WESTWAARTS This diverse cultural event provides a host of music, theatre, dance, cabaret and circus fun for the whole family. 1, 2 & 3 Jul, Erasmuspark, www.westwaarts.com.

JAPIES HOF On this summer's day the Jaap Eden Ice Rink is taken over by a festival of food, music and theatre. The event even has its own children's mini festival, where kids are welcome to play, dance and go on adventures. 2 Jul, Jaap Eden Ice Rink, www.japieshof.nl. WHALE WEEKS Learn about whales, the largest mammals in the world, and their underwater environment during Whale Weeks. In congruence with an exhibition, it invites visitors to engage in various educational activities, which focus primarily on the relationship between humans and nature and the importance of clean oceans. National Maritime Museum, 9 Jul-28 Aug. LANDJUWEEL FESTIVAL Drawing on the late medieval tradition of a Flemish poets' festival, Landjuweel has grown into a multi-day cultural event featuring theatrical explosions, poetry, music, experimental art, workshops and a scintillating programme for the kids. 10-15 Aug, Ruigoord, www. ruigoord.nl UITMARKT JUNIOR Enjoy a cultural weekend with the young ones at the Uitmarkt. Throughout the festival area there will be family-friendly entertainment aplenty. But if you're looking to please younger children, the Uitkrant Junior area is the place to be – also providing inspiration for the cultural season ahead. 26-28 Aug, Museumplein & Leidseplein, www.uitmarkt.nl


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GAY & LESBIAN REGULAR EVENTS

ONE-OFF EVENTS

MELLOW MONDAY Recharge after your busy weekend with free foot and shoulder massages, free snacks, free detox scrubs, and dry and steam saunas. Every Mon, Sauna NZ, 19:00, €19.50, under 26 €10, men only.

EUROPRIDE 2016 Hosted in a different European city every year since, EuroPride unites international forces to promote LGBT pride on a pan-European level. This year in Amsterdam it’s a 16-day affair, with the theme ‘Join Our Freedom’, boasting a gargantuan programme of events, from parades and parties to conferences and remembrance vigils. 23 July-7 Aug www.pride.amsterdam

NAKED SWIMMING The Marnixbad pools contain much less chlorine than most – which is good news since you’ll be exposing your sensitive bits. Every Tue, Marnixbad, 21:15, various prices. (Z)ONDERBROEK Guys: Every Friday night and every first Saturday of the month, drop all your pretences and dance without pants at Club Church in Amsterdam. The dress code is strictly enforced: briefs and jocks are welcome; swimming trunks, boxers, sports shorts or going commando are also permitted. Board shorts, Bermudas or other streetwear prohibited. Every Fri night & first Sat of the month, Club Church, 22:00-05:00, €10.

GARBO FOR WOMEN Garbo for Women Amsterdam takes place in Club Lite as part of the 2016 EuroPride / Amsterdam Gay Pride programme. Lesbian and bisexual women can seek each other out in the relaxed atmosphere of this women-only club night, while eating, drinking, and above all, dancing. Sat 23 July, 18:00, €8 www.garboforwomen.nl GAY PUB CRAWL Get to know the hottest gay bars in Amsterdam on this night to remember during EuroPride 2016. Join your fellow-adventurers from around the world to explore

DRAG OLYMPICS This uproarious sporting extravaganza includes such categories as the Handbag Toss, the Stiletto Sprint, a Bitch VolleyBall competition, a Tango dance-off, and a Hula Hoop contest. Competitors flock from all over the world LADY GALORE'S DRAG with their fabulous wigs and NIGHT attires, hoping to take the gold Come to what many call the medal home - and to have best drag queen show in Amtheir name become the year's sterdam this EuroPride for Olympic Burger on famous entertainment, competitions, gay hotspot Getto's menu. Sat and the most fabulous prizes, Fri 5 Aug, Homomonument deep into the wee small hours. www.dragqueenolympics.nl Lady Galore and her gorgeous CANAL PARADE assistant Annie Alcohol will be joined in the canal-side EuroPride will culminate in gay bar by talented hostesses, the most memorable canal DeeDee, Mayday, Tabitha and parade to date: 80 colourful Ivana. floats, each carrying dozens Sun 24&31 July, 21:00, of exuberant, costumed and Amstel Fifty Four dancing passengers, will overtake the Prinsengracht LGBTQ AMSTERDAM and Amstel River on SaturDuring EuroPride 2016, head day 6 August to the delight to this monthly gay, bisexual, of millions of revellers and transgender and queer neighonlookers bourhood drinks event at the Sat 6 Aug new Eden Amsterdam Manor www.pride.amsterdam Hotel, in the name of safety, education, diversity and LGBT rights. The network’s goal is ADDRESSES to build a bridge between the LGBQ and trans communities Amstel Fifty Four in Amsterdam, partnering Amstel 54 with TransAmsterdam. www.amstelfiftyfour.nl Fri 29 July, 21:00 Church Eden Amsterdam Manor Hotel Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl the famous gay capital in this pub crawl with a difference. Discover the best bars and end your night rocking in rambunctious Amsterdam nightclub, NYX. Every Sat, 22:00 www.gaypubcrawl.nl

Club NYX Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 www.clubnyx.nl Engel van Amsterdam Zeedijk 21 www.engelamsterdam.nl Hotel Arena 's-Gravesandestraat 5 www.hotelarena.nl Lellebel Utrechtsestraat 4 www.lellebel.nl Marnixbad Marnixplein 1 www.hetmarnix.nl Paradiso Weteringschans 6-8 www.paradiso.nl Pathé de Munt Vijzelstraat 15 www.pathe.nl Prik Spuistraat 109 www.prikamsterdam.nl The Queen’s Head Zeedijk 20 www.queenshead.nl Saarein Elandsstraat 119-HS www.saarein2.nl Sauna NZ (Nieuwezijds) Nieuwezijds Armsteeg 95 www.saunanieuwezijds.nl Strand West Stavangerweg 900 www.garboforwomen.nl Taboo Reguliersdwarsstraat 45 www.taboobar.nl The Warehouse Warmoesstraat 96 www.warehouseamsterdam.com

180 AMSTERDAMMERS Amsterdam is a city where people feel free to speak their minds and be who they want to be, wherever they are from. Freedom and tolerance have always been part of this city’s DNA. This year, Amsterdam celebrates with the ‘180 Amsterdammers’ project: a collection of stories and portraits of Amsterdammers from 180 different nationalities. Get to know them on www.180amsterdammers.nl.

? Join the project!

Amsterdam is still looking for people with ‘exotic’ nationalities. Do you live in Amsterdam and come from an ‘unusual’ country, or know someone else who does? And would you like to participate? Let us know via marketing@ iamsterdam. com or call 020-702 62 89. Participants get to keep their portrait and an Amsterdam goodie bag!

180 Amsterdammers is a joint initiative of Amsterdam Marketing, AmsterdamFM, Bridgizz, Nieuwwij, Story Supply, OBA, Amsterdam Museum, Het Parool, the City of Amsterdam (Diversity Department) and many volunteers. Photography by Michiel van Nieuwkerk. Find out more on www.180amsterdammers.nl. 180 AMSTERDAMMERS 180x121mm A-mag adv.indd 1

6/16/16 15:36


FIND INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE AROUND THE ZAAN

KNOWN WORLDWIDE FOR ITS FOOD INDUSTRY, MAJESTIC WINDMILLS AND TRADITIONAL WOODEN HOUSES


72

CLOSING SPECIAL FEATURE

authentic haarlem

Authentic Haarlem

For centuries, Haarlem has been a city of art and culture. From Golden Age painter Frans Hals and historic architecture to modern galleries and quirky museums, there’s something for everyone.

REACHING FOR THE SKIES

HISTORIC HAARLEM

© HANS GULDEMOND

If you take the train to Haarlem, you’re in for a treat from the moment you arrive. The only Dutch railway station in the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau style), Haarlem Station was constructed in 1906 and is characterised by its many tiled panels, decorative ironwork and striking wooden signal house. It’s a fitting introduction to a city that is teeming with exceptionally rich history. There are 4,000 municipal and nationally listed monuments in Haarlem, many of them in the well preserved historic city centre and within easy walking distance of one another. The Amsterdamse Poort, located at the end of the old route from Amsterdam to Haarlem, dates from 1355 and is the last remaining of 12 original city gates that formed the main city defences.

www.iamsterdam.com/area

Haarlem is home to a vast number of great churches, in addition to the imposing Grote Kerk, or St Bavokerk – most of which are worth a visit. The late 15th-century Bakenesserkerk, located northeast of the Teylers Museum, has a distinctive white stone steeple that closely resembles that of the nearby St Bavokerk. During the construction of the steeple on the St Bavokerk, the material was found to be too heavy, causing the church to creak. The steeple was dismantled and replaced with a lighter version made of wood with lead cladding. The first newly built Protestant church in Haarlem, the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), meanwhile, has a distinctive Renaissance-style steeple, built between 1613 and 1616 by the Flemish city architect Lieven de Key. The steeple was built against the former Anna Chapel, which made way for the church in 1645. This resulted in a peculiar combination of two entirely different architectural styles.


73

SHOP TILL YOU DROP Haarlem’s compact centre is crammed with everything from unique boutiques and specialised shops to chain-store staples – perfect for a day of (window) shopping. Haarlem was voted ‘Best shopping city in Holland’ more than once, so take your time to discover all the shops and boutiques in a pleasant and original atmosphere, with personal service and unparalleled passion.

D AIYP TR CULTURAL HAARLEM

TIP: Haarlem also has plenty of themed markets – from antiques to organic food. See www.haarlem.nl for more information.

After a 15-minute train ride from Amsterdam Central Station (platform 1 or 2, trains run every 10 mins), you will arrive at the special railway station of Haarlem. The railway station is actually your first stop; it’s the only station built in the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau style). Pick up a walking guide to Haarlem’s monuments at the Tourist Information Centre (Grote Markt 2, a five-minute walk south of the station) and start your tour through this historic city. Don’t miss the Teylers Museum (www.teylersmuseum.nl, free entrance with your I amsterdam City Card), the country’s oldest museum. Behind their heavy monumental door, the perfectly preserved world of the 18th-century Enlightenment awaits. Wandering through the collection – which is displayed in authentic cases and lit only by daylight – is like leafing through an antique encyclopaedia, allowing each object to tell its own story. The free audio tour comes highly recommended. A must-see for anyone interested in the Dutch Masters is the Frans Hals Museum (www.franshalsmuseum.nl, free entrance with your I amsterdam City Card), which focuses on the 17th-century Haarlem School and boasts the world’s largest collection of paintings by the artist after which it is named. Also look out for paintings by contemporaries including Hendrick Goltzius and Jacob van Ruisdael, Pieter Saenredam and Jan Steen. The Grote Markt square has plenty of cafés and restaurants for a short break and magnificent views of St. Bavo’s Church. The 50-metre steeple of this UNESCO-protected monument still dominates Haarlem’s skyline and contains some beautiful Renaissance works of art.

GOING OUT The diversity of Haarlem’s cultural venues is testament to the city’s history as a place of arts and culture. In recent years, four major cultural centres – Stadsschouwburg Haarlem, Philharmonie, Toneelschuur and Patronaat – have been renovated or rebuilt, bringing that rich history into the 21st century and providing breeding grounds for top Dutch talent. Don’t leave Haarlem without visiting Haarlem’s pride: the Jopenkerk brewery. Beer is definitely a religion for some, but former church-turned-brewery Jopenkerk takes it to extremes. Brewing ‘Jopen Hoppenbier’ on site following an old Haarlem recipe from 1501, the former Jacobskerk has been beautifully restored – with vaulted ceilings and stained glass intact – and also houses a grand café and restaurant. www.jopenkerk.nl TIP: Haarlem hosts many fantastic music festivals and events throughout the year, including Haarlem Jazz & More in August, Haarlem Culture Festival and Jopenfestival in September, and Kunstlijn in October. The Christmas Market brings festive cheer to the beautiful illuminated city. Check www.haarlem.nl for up-to-date programme information.

RIVER SPAARNE

© HANS GULDEMOND

On the Spaarne River, which winds its way through Haarlem, is the Waag (Weighing House) dating from 1599, where traders weighed cheese and butter. The Renaissance-style building has two virtually identical stone façades and characteristic roundarched and cross windows. Molen de Adriaan (Windmill the Adriaan), originally built in 1778, is a smocked windmill that sits on the scenic Spaarne River on the foundations of the tower that once defended the city centre. To truly explore the River Spaarne, join an open-boat tour with Haarlem Canal Tours.

TIP: On view in the Teylers Museum until 4 September 2016 is ‘Coins of Holland’, a special exhibition on the history of Holland’s coins and the country’s role as a trading power.


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CLOSING SPECIAL FEATURE

amsterdam beach

Bubbling Beach

In summertime, sun-seekers flock to the wide expanses of sand at Zandvoort aan Zee and Bloemendaal aan Zee to bask on the beautiful golden beaches and visit the hip cafés, restaurants and trendy beach clubs overlooking the sea.

ZANDVOORT AAN ZEE Just half an hour from Amsterdam, take a seaside stroll, shop till you drop or hop from one sunny beachside terrace to the next. And of course, enjoy the exceptionally wide sandy beach and the amazing views from the beautiful promenade that extends for several kilometres north and south of town. This charming coastal town is also home to the country’s first casino, the Holland Casino Zandvoort, and the famous Circuit Park Zandvoort, which plays host to diverse (inter)national motorsport events every weekend during the summer. With more than 30 vibrant beach clubs and pavilions, everyone can find the perfect spot to hang out and enjoy the sun with a cold drink. Have a groovy day at De Haven van Zandvoort – open 365 days a year – or relax at Safari Beach Club, a laid-back café that's just a little rough around the edges. A number of traditional markets are organised during the summer months.

WIND WATER BEACH Zandvoort’s ‘Wind Water Beach’ is characterised by its raw beauty, from the rugged beach to the industrial port, with its formidable harbours and enormous lock system. The fresh wind from the North Sea ensures that Wind Water Beach is a haven for wind- and water-sports fans.

www.vvvzandvoort.com

WIJK AAN ZEE Situated just four kilometres from the bustling town of Beverwijk (famous for its enormous flea market), Wijk aan Zee is a charming seaside village known for its strong sense of community. Wijk aan Zee’s Noordpier beach, shared with IJmuiden, boasts great waves and is especially popular with surfers. The dunes that separate the village from Beverwijk provide plenty of leisure activities, too. On the outskirts of Wijk aan Zee, on the site of the Tata Steelworks, 11 imposing statues created by international artists are a reminder of Wijk aan Zee’s status as ‘Cultural Village of Europe 1999’.

For more info & tips, visit www.iamsterdam.com/area


75 DISCOVER THE DUTCH DUNES The Dutch have devised numerous ingenious ways to hold back the water, but few are quite so beautiful as the Dutch dunes. The best way to explore the rolling Dutch dunes is on foot or by bike through the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park. Bikes can be rented from the Zandvoort Tourist Information Centre (VVV) or Behind The Beach Bike Rental (in the town centre of Zandvoort). In IJmuiden aan Zee you can rent an e-bike at Dutch Pedelec Tours. They also offer the services of a professional guide, who can show you the rugged beauty of National Park Zuid-Kennemerland. Besides the rich flora and fauna, the dunes are also home to numerous carefully preserved manorial estates. One of the most spectacular is Duin & Kruidberg Country Estate (20 mins by bike from IJmuiden/45 mins by bike from Zandvoort ). Near IJmuiden aan Zee, the fascinating Bunker Museum – housed in a German bunker from World War II – is worth a visit.

D AIYP TR

www.vvvzandvoort.com www.vvvijmuidenaanzee.nl

HIGHLIGHTS OF IJMUIDEN AAN ZEE & WIJK AAN ZEE GET ACTIVE IJmuiden and Wijk aan Zee have plenty of sporty options, both in and out of the water. Get active on one of their beaches: At Noordpier Beach, kite surfing is particularly popular, due to the exceptional wind and wave flow caused by the pier. There’s a surfing centre right on the beach where you can learn the basics, as well as rent wetsuits and gear, and while you probably won’t master kite-surfing in a single day, it’s all the more reason to come back. IJmuiden aan Zee Beach is also great for active water sports, as well as racing kite buggies across the sand. The quieter IJmuiderslag Beach, meanwhile, is a fantastic spot for Nordic walkers, nature lovers and dog walkers. www.vvvijmuidenaanzee.nl

CULTURAL TIP Are you looking for some culture in Amsterdam Beach? Visit one of the two beautiful museums in Zandvoort aan Zee: the Jutters MU-ZEE-UM (literally ‘mu-SEAum’) – which exhibits often-surprising items that have washed up on the beach at Zandvoort – or the Zandvoorts Museum. www.zandvoortsmuseum.nl

To discover the raw seaside beauty of IJmuiden aan Zee, take a short bus ride (bus 82, 30 minutes) from Amsterdam Sloterdijk to this coastal village. Walk through the bunker-studded dunes, watching enormous ships disappear over the horizon. Or walk literally kilometres into the sea along one of the two piers. These provide stunning views of the harbour and the many passing freight and cruise ships as well as the North Sea itself. IJmuiden aan Zee is known for its fresh fish, and a visit would not be complete without sampling the catch of the day. Continue on by water taxi from IJmuiden to Wijk aan Zee. The water taxi across the North Sea canal costs just four euros for a return ticket and also stops at Forteiland (Fortress Island, www.forteiland.nl) on the first Sunday of every month. Forteiland is part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a UNESCO World Heritage site.


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jul & aug 2016

VISITOR INFORMATION

VISITOR INFORMATION

Find u s @ iamst erda .com m

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shops for everything you need to know about the city.

I AMSTERDAM STORE Discover the best of Amsterdam here. Real Amsterdam products and the best tips on everything you want to know about the city. Come and take a look! In the IJ Hall (inside Central Station) Open Mon-Wed 8:00-19:00, Thur-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-18:00 www.iamsterdam.com/store #iamsterdamstore

LAST MINUTE TICKETS Enjoy discounted theatre tickets on the day of performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last Minute Ticket Shop after 10 AM and buy tickets at: www.lastminuteticketshop.nl

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: Tel: +31 (0)20 702 6000 (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00) info@iamsterdam.com www.iamsterdam.com www.twitter.com/Iamsterdam I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN (across from Central Station) Open daily (check opening times on: iamsterdam.com/ visitorcentres) I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza Open daily 7:00-22:00

SPECIAL OFFER FOR I AMSTERDAM CITY CARD HOLDERS! Purchase the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket for a special price of €10. Combine the 24-hour public bus pass with the I amsterdam City Card and make good use of both products! This offer is availabe at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres at Stationsplein and Schiphol Airport, and in the I amsterdam Store.

THE AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET This ticket entitles you to unlimited travel in Amsterdam and the surrounding region for 24 hours – day and night – by bus, tram and metro. There are many attractive options like Haarlem, a city of remarkable history and culture, Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot, an enchanting castle and garden, or the Zaanse Schans with its windmills and lovely village. Beach lovers should head to Zandvoort or IJmuiden aan Zee. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket costs just €13.50 and can be purchased from the I amsterdam Visitor Centres, the I amsterdam Store or at GVB, EBS and Connexxion ticket points.


78

beyond amsterdam

CLOSING

BEYOND

‘WHY IS BARBED WIRE SO BEAUTIFUL? IT’S INEXPLICABLE. MAYBE IT’S BECAUSE THE LONELINESS IS SO BEAUTIFUL.’

A’DAM

ARMANDO

Get out of town for these don’t-miss attractions beyond the city limits.

© EDO LANDWEHR

text Marie-Charlotte Pezé

HAARLEM JAZZ & MORE This huge – and free! – music festival in the charming city of Haarlem is a five-day-long dream for jazz aficionados. The main stage takes over the Grote Markt by the church with an incredible line up including Caro Emerald, Van Dik Hout, Kenny B and Sabrina Starke, but a handful of other squares (Oude Groenmarkt, Kolkhuisplein, etc.) will also feature their own programme, such as the Blues stage on Proveniersplein. Cultural centre Pletterij will focus on world music and improvisation, and the big church will lend its marvelous acoustics to famous saxophonist Yuri Honing, recorder player Erik Bosgraaf and percussionist Joost Lijbaart. Club Ruis (‘Noise’) hosts the after-parties. 17-21 August Haarlem, various locations www.haarlemjazzandmore.nl

GETTING THERE: There are trains from Central Station to Haarlem several times per hour. Travel time: 15 minutes.

MUIDERSLOT SUMMER CONCERTS Located in Muiden to the east of Amsterdam, Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot’s legacy dates all the way back to 1280 when Count Floris V commissioned the construction of a stone fortress on the grounds. Part of the UNESCO-listed Defence Line of Amsterdam, the enchanting castle has a great hall, the perfect stage for summer evening concerts. Talented up-and-coming classical musicians from all over the world combine masterclasses at the International Holland Music Sessions with the opportunity to practise their professional chops in front of the public every Wednesday night from 27 July to 24 August. 27 July-24 August Castle Muiderslot www.muiderslot.nl/cultureel/zomeravondconcerten

GETTING THERE: Buses run very regularly from Amsterdam Amstel Station to bus stop Terrein in Muiden, after which a quick 10-minute walk brings you to the castle. Travel time: 40 minutes.

WONDERFEEL A festival that bears its name well: three days of music in the enchanting 25-hectare estate park of ‘s-Graveland, with six stages of world-class musicians carrying a tune for every taste, from (mostly) classical to jazz to world and pop music. Sit on bean bags, benches and picnic blankets, and enjoy not only music but also movies, stories and even crafts for kids. Rolling kitchens provide the food not quite for the soul, with a huge variety of offerings from beer and pizza to Champagne and oysters. Estate Schaep and Burgh, ‘s-Graveland www.wonderfeel.nl

GETTING THERE: Take the train to Hilversum or Naarden-Bussum (20 minutes), then catch a ride on bus 105 to Natuurmonumenten. Travel time is approximately 1 hour.


79

‘THE CLEAREST WAY INTO THE UNIVERSE IS THROUGH A FOREST WILDERNESS.’ ‘FISHING IS BORING, UNLESS YOU CATCH AN ACTUAL FISH, AND THEN IT’S DISGUSTING.’

JOHN MUIR, AUTHOR AND ENVIRONMENTAL PHILOSOPHER

AUTHOR DAVE BARRY

© ROB DE VRIES

WILDERBURG FESTIVAL

OVERMACHT, ARMANDO IN BERGEN MONNICKENDAM VISDAGEN A glimpse into the past of the old fishing village of Monickendam, the 'Fish Days' are a chance to not only enjoy some authentic Dutch delicacies but also learn more about its antique smoking crafts and traditions. The festivities start with auctions of the day’s catch fresh off the boat, and move on to the smokeries – of which Monnickendam counted more than 30 a hundred years ago. Others will smoke their fish outdoors in barrels, while basket weavers and clog makers show off their skills and fishermen choirs sing old-time tunes on the harbour. Every Friday 15 July – 19 August Monnickendam www.monnickendammervisdagen.nl

GETTING THERE: From Amsterdam Central, hop on buses 310, 312, 314 or 316 and alight at Bernardbrug. Travel time: 20 minutes.

Sculptor, painter and writer Armando spent his youth in Amersfoort witnessing the horrors of Nazi occupation, which has greatly influenced his art. Little-known fact: his style found much inspiration in the first exhibition by Karel Appel, a famous artist of the Cobra movement, which took place in Dirk Huber’s studio in the little town of Bergen in 1949. To honour this rich heritage, Kranenburgh has gathered more than 50 pieces by the famed artist, including paintings, drawings and photographs, most of which belong to private collectors and rarely get to be admired by the public. Until 26 November Kranenburgh Hoflaan 26, Bergen www.kranenbugh.nl

GETTING THERE: Trains to Alkmaar run every 30 minutes, then take bus 6 to Plein in Bergen. Travel Time: 1 hour.

‘Three hot days of madness’ is how this new festival describes itself. Lost in the wilderness, among the dunes and bamboo forests, the festival village remains small so that visitors can fully revel in the beauty and tranquility of nature – and pitch their tent wherever they please. The long weekend isn’t just about the stellar line-up of musicians and DJs (including Cinnaman, Extrawelt and Interstellar Funk), but also about creative immersion, with more than 70 artists, designers, actors and collectives coming together to construct installations, launch pyrotechnics and perform plays or dance numbers. 15-17 July Wilderburg Leemringweg 18, Kraggenburg www.wilderburg.nl

GETTING THERE: Take the train to Zwolle then bus 71 to Picknickplaats in Kraggenburg; for a shorter trip, take the train to Lelystad, then bus 140 to Busstation Emmeloord, where you can catch the 71. Travel Time: 1 hour by car, 2 hours by public transportation.


80

CLOSING

then & now

THEN AND NOW: THE CONSTRUCTION OF RAI, 1989

Tracing the city’s history, one image at a time. text Marie-Charlotte Pezé photo Jan Versnel


81

AMSTERDAM FRINGE FESTIVAL Edinburgh’s younger, cooler sibling brings international avant-garde theatre a-plenty. Various locations 1-11 September www.amsterdamfringefestival.nl

NEXT ISSUE SEP & OCT 2016

 JEAN TINGUELY

UNLOCKED

From 1 October Stedelijk Museum www.stedelijk.nl

© PULP COLLECTORS

© CRISTIAN BAUR

DRIVING NORTH

A huge celebration of road movies, Driving North brings a string of drive-in film sessions to NDSM.

International photography talent galore, from emerging to established artists, is on display at the spectacular Westergasfabriek 23-25 September Westergasfabriek www.unseenamsterdam.com

© KOEN VAN TARWIJK

UNSEEN PHOTO FAIR

October NDSM www.drivingnorth.nl

From July 1 Amsterdam City Archives www.stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl

The Stedelijk brings us the largest Dutch exhibition of Jean Tinguely’s famous kinetic machines and explosive performances.

The Maria Austria Institute (MAI) digitised 10,000 glass negatives from renowned architectural photographer Jan Versnel. The result is a fascinating overview of the reconstruction of the Netherlands after World War II, including the vast expansion of the RAI Amsterdam complex, which started out in the late 19th century as a Palace for Industry, inspired by the Crystal Palace in London. It has grown exponentially over the years, with the addition of monumental halls and atriums, to become the gargantuan convention centre it is today. In the 1980s, architect Alexander Bodon was charged with building the 30,000 m2 Holland Hall, and received Dutch and international steel and aluminum awards for his space-frame design. Jan Versnel immortalised the space in 1989 in a captivating series of photographs. The exhibition at the Amsterdam City Archives, realised with the support of the Stimuleringsfonds Creatieve Industrie, contains many unseen works by the artist.

AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT The world’s biggest club festival and Europe’s leading electronic music conference Various locations 19-23 October www.amsterdam-dance-event.nl


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CLOSING

ON THE WAY

OUT

We asked people leaving Schiphol Airport for their Amsterdam advice.

text & photos Marie-Charlotte Pezé

on the way out

VOJO, 39, CAR DEALER FROM MONTENEGRO ‘The best thing to do in Amsterdam is to walk around, go out on the town, and enjoy all the sights. The second best thing is SupperClub!’

DON DE MANUEL, 24, SEAFARER FROM THE PHILIPPINES 'Well, of course, as a seaman, I love the harbour! It's so big and beautiful, and just as pleasant from the shore than from the water.'

GABRIELA SILVA, 21, STUDENT FROM MEXICO ‘There are so many great museums in this city, but my favourite is the Van Gogh Museum. I always admired his work, but seeing it for real, in person, is just amazing.’

TEUN AND JORIEKE DIJKERS, 32, CONSULTANT AND PHYSICAL THERAPIST FROM OLDENZAAL ‘Local café Ruk en Pluk on Linaeusstraat is so much fun. It’s a silly little café with a strange décor and a crowd of mostly locals, but it’s really the best time.’

CINDY AND JOEL ROGERS, 56 AND 60, BARISTA AND CIVIL ENGINEER FROM MINNESOTA ‘Take a daytrip to Haarlem, it’s such a quaint town, and people are very friendly. The Grote Markt square, with the big church and all the little shops and restaurants, is so lovely.”

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Loes Koomen designer Zlatka Siljdedic deputy editor Marie-Charlotte Pezé proofreader Elysia Brenner contributors Elysia Brenner, Lauren Comiteau, Karin Engelbrecht, Leda Georgiades, Catalina Iorga, Elisah Jacobs, Jayne Robinson, Bregtje Schudel, Mark Smith, Monique Wijbrands/Saltystock listings EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, Steven McCarron & Sarah Gehrke), Christiaan de Wit cover illustration Tinykiwi Prints


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A-mag – Amsterdam Magazine: Vol 4, No. 4  

The July/August 2016 issue of A-mag, Amsterdam’s colourful city magazine.

A-mag – Amsterdam Magazine: Vol 4, No. 4  

The July/August 2016 issue of A-mag, Amsterdam’s colourful city magazine.

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