10 tips for laying perfect floors

1. Any flooring that has been purchased should be checked for defects before installation. This stops defective products being used. The guarantee may be invalidated if the floor covering is fitted anyway.

2. Only install on solid, non-floating base layers.

3. Do not fix objects (e. g. kitchen islands) onto the flooring - they should be secured directly onto the base layer.

4. Lay the floor around fixed objects (e.g. kitchen) and leave a gap of at least 8-10 mm for expansion.

5. Do not install the product immediately, but store it for at least 24 hours for SPC and 48 hours for vinyl/susify flooring in the room where the installation is planned. This helps the floor covering to adapt to the temperature. 6. Always follow the manufacturer's installation instructions.

7. Buy the recommended footstep soundproofing for the floor. Carpet is NOT a permitted insulation.

8. Use spacers as you work so that the floor lies straight and does not slip during installation.

9. Keep the recommended offset of 30 cm to the joints in adjacent rows. This provides maximum stability for the connection.

10. Joints can be sealed using PE cord and silicone to prevent cracks from forming. To avoid complaints, it is recommended that if a joint has to be filled, it is important to ensure that a) silicone is used. b) the dimension of the joint is widened by 50%. and c) a joint cord is used to prevent the silicone from sticking to the base.

LVT PREMIUM 8.0/0.55 MM

Droplock 400 with footstep soundproofing

bdesign-floors.com

LVT Premium 8.0/0.55 mm

RECOMMENDED TOOLS

Universal knife and straight edge Tape measure 8-10 mm spacers Pencil

Tapping block Rubber mallet

Carpenter's angle Drawbar

PROPERTIES

The flooring has a high-quality and innovative closed-cell foam PVC core. As a result, this is stiff but also firm and light at the same time. It is also easy to handle and lay. The strong and dimensionally stable panels are resistant to warping and expansion and perfectly compensate for irregularities in the underlying base layer.

• 100 % waterproof - can be laid in most of your rooms in private and commercial areas

• outstanding durability thanks to ceramic coating

• Isocore technology creates lightweight yet strong products that are easy to install • The underlay mat on the underside provides a warm and comfortable flooring that absorbs the sound from footsteps

• The Ultra-Fresh treatment stops the development of odours and stains that could lead to mould or mildew stains

• Easy DIY installation thanks to the Droplock connection

INSTRUCTIONS FOR LAYING FLOORING

Before installing the floor, please observe the general requirements for the base layers. We recommend laying the flooring in rooms where the temperature is between 13 °C and 32 °C.

PLEASE NOTE: The product may be more difficult to work with or the interlocking system may be damaged if the floor is exposed to extreme heat or cold before it is laid. Make sure that the product is at room temperature before installation.

The flooring is a floating floor and must be able to expand and contract freely. Therefore, it should NOT be fixed to the base using screws, nails or glue. Assemble washbasins and island furniture in advance and then lay the flooring around these objects. Please also note the information on expansion joints.

CAUTION

The flooring has been designed exclusively for indoor use. Do not lay the flooring over existing carpets, foam underlays or in saunas, solariums and conservatories.

USING A HERRINGBONE PATTERN

START WALL

Mid-point

END WALL

1. Create a room plan

Measure the room from one end to the other to identify the central point. Mark this out.

2. Set the working lines

Measure 4.1 cm to the left and right of the centre mark. Use chalk to mark out corresponding lines along the entire length of the room.

41 mm 41 mm

Working line Working line

Groove corner

3. Preparation for installation

Sort all of the panels into "A" and "B" as you remove them from the box. If possible, install panels from 3 or 4 boxes at the same time to achieve the best possible mix of patterns and colours. "A" panels have an integrated grey underlay, "B" panels have a black underlay. Please note that the groove edges are located on the other long side of the panels.

4. Start the V pattern

Place the long side of a "B" panel over the short end of an "A" panel. Use the grooved edge of another panel to align the edge. Use a soft hammer to tap the upper panel "B" until both panels are firmly connected. This step is crucial for professional installation.

6 mm spacer

Working line Working line Tongue Do not fix in position yet

Start from here 6 mm spacer

Do not fix in position yet

Nut Nut

5. Starting the first row

This gives you your first angle. Push this "starting angle" up against the wall. The guidelines should run in relation to the panels as shown on the right side. Panel "A" should be placed closest to the wall, directly on the 10-mm spacer. Panel "B" runs in an offset direction, this is normal. The perfect alignment of the "starting angle" is crucial for the quality of the entire installation.

6. Continuing the first row

Continue by laying the rows "A1" and "B1" as shown on the right. The last 5 cm or so of the edge (highlighted on the right side) should not be tapped down. This part is tapped in place by connecting the panels in the next row. Always make sure that your "starting angle" is correctly aligned (as described in step 5) as you lay the rows "A1" and "B1".

1. Lift edge 2.Slide underneath

7. Connecting additional panels to the left and right of the centre rows

Starting with the last whole panel at the wall end, then lay the following rows ("A2" and "B2"). Lift the loose edge and slide the new panel underneath as shown on the right side. Position the groove edge and groove of the first panel in row "A2" on the last panel in row "B1". Tap the edges to create a firm connection between the panels.

8. Connecting additional panels to the left and right of the centre rows

Lay the other rows like this until you have reached the other end of the room. Remember not to tap the last 5 cm or so at the edge. These are tapped into place by connecting the panels in the next row. Keep checking the alignment on the guidelines while laying the other panels so that the pattern runs straight. Make the appropriate adjustments, if necessary.

Measure distance

Start

9. Laying the panels

Measure the distance to the wall and mark and cut the panels to fill the space to the wall accordingly. Fit 10 mm spacers between the panels. You can use a T-square to find the right angle. Always measure twice before cutting the panels to size. You have now reached the last row of your project and can now tap all the edges to make the final connection.

10. Laying up against irregularly shaped objects

Create a matching template for pipes or other irregularly shaped objects in the floor. Place the template on a panel and trace the shape using a pencil. Using a cutter or scroll saw, cut along the pencil lines and insert the panel. Alternatively, you can also use a hole saw to cut the panels that need to be laid around pipes.

11. Finishing the job

Remove the spacers. Cover the expansion spaces with a quarter round or another finish. The edge of the flooring must not be held or pressed down. Nails should be driven into the wall and not into the floor. Keep all of the remaining panels in a safe place. Do not throw them away as they are colour-matched exactly to your floor and come from the same colour batch. They can be used later as replacement material if you ever need to replace a panel.

12. Direct sunlight

The floor must be protected from direct sunlight. The warranty will become invalid if the temperature is not within the recommended range.

INSTALLING SQUARE

Pattern

Brick

1. Flooring should only be laid if it is free of faults

After unpacking, check the panels immediately for damage and defects (e.g. differences in colour or gloss level). Defective panels should not be installed.

2. Create a room plan

Measure the room from one end to the other to find the best possible position for the tiles in the room.

600 mm 600 mm

250 mm

221 mm

3. Laying designs

The panels should not be laid without an offset.

Spacer Nut

4. Distance from the edge

Leave a distance of 8-10 mm from the edge, to compensate for movements of the floor underneath.

Guide tile

5. Starting the first row

To achieve the best possible alignment of the panels, we recommend working with a guide panel to ensure a flush transition at the edges.

6. Connect the panels to each other

Each panel must be tapped down on all four sides using a rubber mallet.

6 mm spacer

7. Laying procedure

To lay the surface quickly and systematically, we recommend that the sequence of laying shown above is followed.

8. Laying flooring up to irregularly shaped objects

Create a matching template for pipes or other irregularly shaped objects in the floor. Place the template on a panel and using a cutter or scroll saw, cut along the pencil lines and insert the panel. Alternatively, you can also use a hole saw to cut the panels that need to be laid around pipes.

9. Remove spacers

You only need the spacers at the edge during installation. Remove these once your floor has completely laid.

10. Do not lay flooring under objects

Start by placing your furniture in the room and then lay your flooring around the objects – and not underneath.

11. Direct sunlight

The floor must be protected from direct sunlight. The warranty will become invalid if the temperature is not within the recommended range.