Travel: Paradise in Portugal

TRAVEL

Paradise in Portugal

They say there’s no place quite like home, so SONIA CAEIRO ALVAREZ armchair travelled very close to her hometown in north western Spain and found magic in Midões.

Nestled just outside the village of Midões in the mountains of central Portugal is Quinta da Alegria. That’s where an exceptional family of horse lovers, horses, and four-legged farm folk collectively create the heart-warming and unique Portugal by Horse riding holiday and farm stay. It is in essence a bucolic wonderland of mountains, meadows and rivers, historic villages, deep culture and the warmest hospitality. In reality it’s a captivating farm experience with a herd of much loved horses and Portuguese passion in abundance.

For riders, a farm holiday at Quinta da Alegria is a total immersion into both magnificent nature, and what consummate hosts Liesje Vanneste and João Cabrita call the magic of horses. Liesje and João manage every aspect of the farm stay with heart and soul, and, along with extensive horse riding tours and trails, offer lessons in horsemanship and the captivating Dancing with Horses, as well as on-site yoga, reiki, massage, hiking, cycling and mountain biking tours, crossbow shooting, canyoning, and kayaking.

In 1996, Belgian-born Liesje arrived in Portugal with two horses, two dogs, some chickens and a tipi. She explored the region until she discovered a home for herself and her beloved menagerie: the stunning historical village of Midões, a short train, bus or car ride from Lisbon or Porto. A city dweller from Alcantarilha-Algarve and Lisbon City, João had spent years at university studying and working in IT, until his path collided with Liesje’s. From there, their dream of paradise gained traction as the pair developed a unique horse riding and nature adventure.

The property is abundant in water springs and was last inhabited by Pastor António Pereira with his family and a large sheep herd. After his death

João shares a special connection with Fly. BELOW LEFT: Ariza gazes through the window at the idyllic countryside.

Quinta da Alegria was abandoned, full of brambles and overgrowth, a devastated orchard, disintegrating roof and 12 years of dust and debris. Since 2009 the couple has lovingly transformed the original three hectares to 25 hectares of pastures, meandering wildflower meadows, and rich fertile land.

Liesje believes that it’s the little things and the simple pleasures that remain in our memories. The things we share with our friends, partners, children or grandchildren. “It’s when we can be taken to another dimension, the dimension of pure joy,” she says. “The joy of Quinta da Alegria is finding eggs in the barn and enjoying them for breakfast, picking fruit from a tree, helping to feed the farm animals, bringing hay to the meadow for the horses, or just watching them run across the fields. It could be the joy of pushing your children in a wheelbarrow and having a picnic in the shade in a hidden valley, or watching sunsets give way to millions of stars by the campfire.”

The Quinta da Alegria herd is made up of 13 unique and diverse personalities including two Haflingers, four Lusitanos, four Portuguese Cross, a Garrano, a KWPN (the Dutch Warmblood) and a Selle Français. Nine are available for riding.

The horses are managed in as natural way as possible and are a true herd. “They are always together and almost always grazing in the 25 hectares of meadow, where they not only eat but also run and play and are extremely happy horses,” explains Liesje. “When they are stabled to work, the structures are open so they can see, touch and smell each other. In winter, when it’s very cold or wet, they sleep and eat in stables, but still go to the meadow, rain or shine.”

All the horses are barefoot, and Liesje says they have not used horseshoes since 2006. “We believe that they are healthier and happier this way. Their hooves are trimmed regularly by a Portuguese specialist in barefoot trimming. Sometimes they can develop sensitivity in summer in which case we use hoof boots,” she explains.

The horses are ridden with English saddles, usually with a sheepskin on top of the saddle for extra rider comfort, although during pandemic restrictions sheepskins are not

The leafy serenity of the Rio dos Cavalos River. BELOW: João and Fly in the lead, followed by Lusia and Quo Vadis with two guests.

being used. The farm is a registered COVID-safe establishment and stringent about the regulations around guest comfort and safety.

Riding lessons are available to anyone four years of age or older, and are oriented to Liesje and João’s philosophy of teaching without a bridle. This natural way of learning results in a more comfortable and intuitive ride for both horse and rider. “We focus on feeling, balance, timing and synchronisation,” Liesje says. “You learn using your body and weight and it doesn’t take long to be confident, without or with a bridle.”

All lessons from basic to an advanced level include the language of horses, feel, intuition, groundwork, and ridden work.

The farm is managed with the aim of maintaining the lightest possible environmental footprint and as such is classified as a Tripadvisor Greenleader. It is operated within circular sustainability principles, incorporating recycling, composting, and ecologically friendly cleaning products. Linen is dried by the sun, wind, or the warmth of a wood burner fire during winter. All electrical appliances have an energy efficiency rating of A or A+ and light bulbs are either LED or energy savers. The buildings have all been constructed with locally sourced materials, and decorated using lime paint and natural pigments.

Most of the furniture is recycled, and the wood stoves used for heating are fed with wood trimmed from the trees. No food is ever discarded, with the hungry menagerie doing their bit to dispose of leftovers and enrich the soil. With seven dogs, four cats, and a plethora of free roaming chickens, ducks and ducklings, this is an easy task.

Native wildlife abounds in the verdant countryside and the nightingale’s song can be heard day and night from April to June. The wide variety of native plant, bird, reptile, amphibian and insect species will delight nature lovers, and enhance riding through the lush glades and valleys.

Three main horse riding holiday packages are on offer for visitors, catering to all levels of expertise. The standard experience includes arrival in the afternoon to meet and feed the horses in the evening. After breakfast, guests gather to groom the horses they are to ride to the historic village of Casal da Senhora and the stunning views of the Estrella-Açor and Caramulo mountains. The afternoon is spent grooming and preparing the horses for a one hour sunset ride on the property, after which the horses are fed and guests are then free to spend the evening as they wish.

The weekend winds up with a farm

breakfast, lazing by the pool and perhaps another sneaky ride exploring the property in this stunning corner of Europe. “Our guests love that all the horses respond to our special call. Wherever they are on the meadows, they’ll each gallop to their stable,” says Liesje. “The riders also love the abundance of nature on the farm, and the gallops up to the hill views. But they especially love listening to João’s stories of the history of our region and of the Romans, the Celts and the original Portuguese people, while they ride over Roman bridges and around Celtic graves and monuments.”

For experienced riders the full moon ride with João is an absolute highlight. “It’s extremely exciting as you have to surrender completely to your horse with absolute trust as you gallop through the dark,” Liesje explains.

Another of the more unique experiences at Quinta da Alegria is Dancing with Horses. João teaches riders how to more deeply understand and communicate with horses, while on the ground and in the saddle. The focus is on learning how to move, stop, turn, trot and canter without touching the horse, using only your inner energy and body language. Lessons are available singularly or as part of the farm holiday packages.

For experienced and new riders alike, the farm is ideal for singles, groups and families. Children and teenagers are welcome and well-catered for, with adults able to enjoy the experience knowing their children have a safe haven to play and learn, and a raft of activities to inspire them. For singles or couples seeking privacy, there are many peaceful locations in nature, or close to the property’s beautiful saltwater pool.

Visit www.portugalbyhorse.com for information on accommodation options, rates, and activities, as well as details on each horse including their name, breed, age, and temperament.

João, Fly, Charlotte and Lola. BELOW: Early morning on misty mountain trails (Image by René van Bakel Photography).