Experience Niseko, Winter 2015/16

EXPERIENCE

VOL. 1 WINTER 2015/16

JAPAN’S NO.1 SKI RESORT

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Ten Years in Niseko

REASONS TO TRY NIGHT

SKIING

WITH PHOTOGRAPHER GLEN CLAYDON

SUMMERTIME NISEKO’S BEST KEPT SECRET

WOMEN IN BLUE

Meet the women behind GoSnow

BLESSED WITH POWDER SNOW

NISEKO’S

FOOD REVOLUTION

A history of powder skiing in Niseko

PLUS! RESTAURANTS, EVENTS & MORE

■ English and Japanese Call Center ■ 4WD sedans and maxi-taxis available (up to 9 passengers) ■ Operating from 5am to 1am every day ■ Serving all areas of Niseko and Kutchan

Book by smartphone with TaxiCaller!

Automatically sends your location to the closest available vehicle.

Available from iTunes and Google Play stores.

www.nisekotaxi.com

Door-to-door private transfers from ¥30,000.

ONBOARD

Airport <-> Niseko Niseko <-> Sapporo Diverse range of current model vehicles from Toyota Hiace, SUVs to Luxury Coaches.

www.skybus.co.jp Tel: 0136-555-601

The widest range of properties in Niseko, Japan All with: free gondola ski valet • in-resort concierge free wi-fi • comprehensive guest benefit program

www.htholidays.com Email: stay@htholidays.com Australia Toll Free: 1800-242-740 • Hong Kong Toll Free: 800-906-113 • Singapore Toll Free: 800-852-3866 • Japan: +81 (0)136 233 503

The official international snowsports school of Grand Hirafu Resort, Niseko Japan INTER NATIONAL SN OWSP O RT S SCH OOL K I DS G RO U P L E S S O N S M A XIM U M 8 PE R CL A SS

P R I VAT E L E S S O N S PE R S O N A L ISE D I NS T R U C T I O N

A D U LT G RO U P L E S S O N S M A XIM U M 6 PE R CL A SS

P OW D E R G U I D I N G TO U R S E X PE R I E N CE N ISE KO ‘ S S T E E P A N D D E E P L I K E A LO C A L !

WO R K S H O P S SPECIA L ISE D G RO U P SE SSI O NS WI T H A M A XIM U M O F 3 PE R CL A SS

N E W FOR 2015/2016 SE A SO N! New!

Priority Lift Lines at the Hirafu Gondola and Ace Quad (Center 4) lifts

New!

More Instructors Increased by 50% during peak periods

New!

Kids Passport for Yama Riders and Ninja Kids to easily track progress

New! New!

P OWDER WO R K S H O P S

FI R ST TIM ER PACK An all-inclusive day for adult first timers, including everything you need to start skiing or snowboarding!

Includes all rental gear: outer wear, helmet, goggles, gloves and equipment, lift ticket and a full day of adult group lessons.

Full day adult group classes focusing on the development of skills needed for a great powder experience.

New!

WOM EN ’ S WO R K S H O P S

Enjoy a day out on the Niseko slopes with one of our elite female coaches.

The workshop includes lunch at the acclaimed An Dining and is perfect for women looking to improve their riding technique and explore the mountain at their own pace.

THE OFFICIAL INTERNATIONAL SNOWSPORTS SCHOOL OF GRAND HIRAFU RESORT, NISEKO JAPAN

Book online at gondolasnowsports.com or contact us at lessons@gondolasnowsports.com 204 Aza Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081 • Tel: 0136 23 2665

Editor’s Note

D

uring the 2015/16 season, Niseko will welcome more international guests than ever before, each in search of their own unique Niseko experience. For many it will mean going after the resort’s famed powder, for some it will be a rejuvenating soak in a local onsen, and for others it will mean gorging on the region’s internationallyrenowned produce.

Niseko, more so than ever, is attracting visitors not only for the quality of its skiing and snowboarding, but because it has evolved into one of Japan’s truly dynamic and exciting tourist destinations, supported by a passionate and dedicated local community. In our inaugural issue of Experience Niseko (and in future editions), we look to cover the catalogue of activities, venues and events that make up the “Niseko experience” and stay close to the pulse of a resort that is continually moving forward. We hope that this will be a valuable guide for those looking to make the most of their holiday.

6 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Change is hardly a new thing for Niseko. “A History of Powder Skiing in Niseko” on page 26 walks us though Niseko’s days as a sulphur mining region, a hot spring town and, more familiarly, its transformation into a world-class ski destination.

In more recent times, Niseko has become one of Japan’s dining hotspots, courtesy of industry personalities like Shinichi Maeda (An Dining), James Gallagher and Keiko Takaoka (Ezo Seafoods) and Takuma Okada (L’ocanda).

Their unique stories—which you can find on page 20—shed light on why Niseko’s dining scene is quickly becoming an international crowd-puller in its own right.

A man who has witnessed Niseko’s transformation through his own eyes— and lens—is the legendary Glen Claydon, an Australian photographer who has made Niseko home for the last 10 years, and whose eye for capturing the many moods of the area is as good as any. His stunning photo feature on page 38 is a testament to

his phenomenal ability as a cameraman and to the breathtaking natural studio in which he works. His cover shot is a personal favourite.

On page 34, we look into the lives of the women behind GoSnow, Niseko Hirafu’s international snowsports school.

An academic with a devotion to sport and education, a ski school director with a lifelong commitment to the snowsports industry, and a young Austrian ski instructor rediscovering a fascination with Japan in her return season to Niseko. These three individuals form the backbone of a dedicated crew of female instructors at GoSnow, all with a shared passion for their work.

Whether you’re in Niseko for the deep, dry powder, the fresh seafood, the vibrant nightlife or a little bit of everything, we hope that your stay is as memorable as ever and that you experience Niseko in your own special way.

- RUPERT ORCHARD

20

Editor’s Notes/Contents/Credits 34

Contents

News from Niseko 8 Niseko Guide Restaurants, shopping, events, onsens and activities 12 Staying Power How to last longer on the mountain in Niseko 18 Niseko’s Food Revolution 20 Blessed with Powder Snow A history of powder skiing in Niseko 26 Unplug and Escape A family summer adventure in Niseko 32 Women in Blue 34

10 Years of Niseko Powder with Glen Claydon 38 Summertime – Niseko’s Best Kept Secret 46 5 Reasons You Need to Try Night Skiing in Niseko 48 Kanpai! A beginner’s guide to Japanese sake 50 Niseko Locals 52 Trail Map 54 Village Map 56

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EXPERIENCE NISEKO Vol. 1, Winter 2015-16 Published by HTM KK, 91-1 Aza Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081, Japan Photography: Glen Claydon Design: 43 North Design

46

EXPERIENCE NISEKO

7

niseko news

View from the proposed Skye Niseko development and (inset) the demolition of the Scott Hotel

News from

Niseko

We’re definitely riding another boom cycle here in Niseko, with several buildings going up and interest in the resort at an all-time high. Niseko was the only resort in the world to pick up every single countrylevel award in the World Ski Awards in 2014 and repeated the trick in 2015.

We’ve summarised the most important and some of the more interesting things going on in the village. See what’s happening in the fastest growing ski resort in Asia!

Skye High Status: Rumour at the time of going to print!

We’ve heard that Skye Niseko, the latest development from the team that brought World Ski Awards nominee Terrazze to Niseko, has received national park approval.

Slated to be built on the old Scott Hotel site (see the photo of that beauty being knocked down several years ago), this development is most certainly ski-in, and also one of a handful of true ski-out locations in the village. Situated in the national park, it also features protected views in all directions (see the photo above to get an idea of what you might see).

If Terrazze is anything to go by, the design will be stunning, hopefully befitting the location which, needless to say, is one of the best in the village.

Go Go GoSnow Status: Going ahead Apart from taking space in the bottom of Aya Niseko, GoSnow will also be operating from the Ace Family Pair Lift ski area from winter 2016/17. As the official international ski and snowboard school 8 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

At the time of going to press the developers were waiting on final approval from Kutchan Town. If all is clear you might find the chance to experience what will be the most talked about development in the village for some time to come. Likely to include amenities such as restaurants, bars and coffee shops (all “on-piste”), as well as onsen, spa, ski valet and rental shop. If the project comes to fruition it would introduce a real alternative to the comprehensive services of the middle village. We hear there is even a rooftop rotenburo!

It’s not always better to have a building than a block of land covered in the world’s finest snow, but in this case we’re pretty sure something very special will be coming to the top of the village!

Great news for Niseko…watch this space!

of Niseko Grand Hirafu Resort, GoSnow guests will be able to enjoy special perks, such as priority lift lines and the only on-snow facilities in the resort. Rumour is there will be another magic carpet on the way too, to be located on the Family run and used exclusively for GoSnow lessons.

niseko news

Luxury in Niseko Just Got a Bit More Luxurious Status: On sale this winter?

Murasaki Niseko has been designed as the first “ultra-luxury” ski-in ski-out condominium development in Hirafu. It will open in winter 2017 directly in front of the Ace Family Pair Lift (between Alpen Ridge and First Tracks) and will feature the largest apartments in the village, ranging from four to six bedrooms.

Facilities will include luxurious private entertainment rooms, Japanese-style spas and huge living rooms with wide picture windows giving views out across the slopes. This is one of the closest accommodations to any lift in the whole of Niseko.

Visitors to the ground floor Murasaki Café will find a broad terrace serving high quality coffee and pastries, along with local food products, craft beers, cheeses, breads and wines. The Murasaki Gift Shop will be home to Niseko’s only Englishlanguage bookshop and newsstand, offering a range of magazines, newspapers and books. It will also supply gift products by local artisans and origami kits for the kids. Definitely a welcome addition to the local retail mix!

Niseko Classic Added to UCI World Cycling Tour Status: Confirmed for July 10, 2016!

The Niseko Classic is now a UCI Gran Fondo World Series event! The UCI series includes 16 races staged across the world, and this is the first time the event will be held in Asia. Participation in the Boardman Niseko Classic 2016 will be an opportunity to qualify for the UCI Gran Fondo World Series World Championships in 2016.

The event includes race distances of 70km or 140km, the latter best-known for its awe-inspiring climbs through the Niseko Panorama Line and spectacular views of Mt. Yotei. It leads riders out to the Sea of Japan before a return to the start/ finish at Niseko Grand Hirafu Resort.

The 70km race follows part of of the 140km course and provides a shorter challenge for all abilities, with rolling hills, seaside breezes and endless views of Hokkaido’s natural landscape. More information at nisekoclassic.com.

Aya Niseko Status: Confirmed and for sale this winter— see the building site next to The Vale Bye bye car park, hello new 330 bed ski-in ski-out condo hotel! Aya Niseko is being built right underneath the Ace Family Pair Lift and will feature a range of apartments from studios all the way up to penthouses. Some of the views will be fantastic, looking right up the slopes (as you can see from this image).

Aya Niseko will incorporate all the staples of a new hotel in Niseko: onsen, spa, restaurant and cafe, 24 hour front desk and ski valet, but in addition it will have a gym/ yoga room as well as an art gallery. The gallery will showcase works from Hokkaido’s established and emerging artists, including paintings, sculptures, calligraphy, ceramics and textiles.

Aya Niseko will be another great addition to the ski-in ski-out options in Niseko. We’ve also heard that GoSnow will have a kids’ ski club on the ground floor as well as an extra 50 instructors to start lessons from the Family run!

EXPERIENCE NISEKO

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BEAUTIFUL ALL YEAR ROUND

Reason #1

LOCATION

Perhaps it’s the breathtaking views of Mt Yotei.

Or our Japanese onsen hotsprings.

Maybe it’s the private ski valet.

Or Chef Shinichi’s signature sushi at An Dining.

But really, with a location this good, who needs another reason?

www.kiniseko.com

stay@kiniseko.com

The boutique ski-in ski-out hotel with doorstep access to Niseko’s world famous snow.

niseko news

NAC Skis Status: Confirmed…but not quite ready!

Easily the best address in Kutchan is NAC’s new ski factory—Platform 1, Kutchan Station! Local legend Ross Findlay and his team opened their factory in January 2015 to produce skis designed for floating on Niseko’s fabled powder snow.

The plan is to get the finished product out on the snow for test rides as soon as the season starts, and we hear that at some point during the winter you’ll be able to put your own design on a pair of skis hand crafted here in Niseko.

Lift Me Up (Higher and Faster Please!)

Status: Highly likely Tokyu Resort Service have for some time been discussing upgrading a few lifts in Niseko Hirafu, and we’re hearing that summer 2016 will see the first of those improvements go ahead.

First up will be the King Hooded Triple Lift high up the mountain. The lift will be extended to make connection to the Hirafu Gondola seamless and help speed up your flight to the best snow in the world!

The Center 4 lift (in front of The Alpen) and Ace Family Pair Lift (in front of Aya Niseko) are also slated for upgrades in the next couple of years.

Onwards and upwards!

Niseko Mountain Village

NAC Skis

Seicomart Upgrade!

Status: Complete and ready for your business!

Probably the biggest news of the summer is the renovation and upgrade of everyone’s favourite local convenience store!

Seicomart now has hot food and coffee as well as the usual Japanese assortments!

Status: Tennis court has been cleared!

The Trees

Situated just above Yama Shizen in the upper village, this 180 unit, two-building project is scheduled for completion in winter 2017. Not exactly ski-in ski-out, and details are a little scarce at the moment, but we’re hearing there will be an onsen, restaurants, shops and perhaps even a game room—just what the village was missing!

Status: Two houses built already, more to come

Flow Trail Mountain Biking Status: First one coming in 2016!

Following the example of some of the biggest resorts in the world, Niseko is waking up to the reality that far more people cycle than ski! Coming next year will be the first flow trail—perfect for families and kids to roll down the mountain. The first one will be at Asahigaoka (just behind Kutchan Station), with more due on the slopes of Grand Hirafu from 2018!

If Niseko Hirafu is too cosmopolitan for you and you’re looking for a bit more peace and quiet, you should investigate the latest development from the team that brought you Nozomi Views. The Trees is a collection of 16 luxurious houses situated between Niseko Hirafu and Niseko Village and promises tranquility in the forest.

Sara Cleyz Delivers High-end Kimono Fashion

Hanazono Lands a Park Hyatt Status: Confirmed for 2019 PCPD and Hyatt have announced plans for a Park Hyatt hotel and residences, set to open in Hanazono in 2019. The 100-room ski-in ski-out hotel will feature a selection of specialty restaurants, swimming pool, gym, golf clubhouse and more. An additional 100 Park Hyattbranded residences will operate under a rental program managed by the luxury hotel brand. Great news for Niseko United as another brand shows, once again, that Niseko knows only one way, and that way is up!

Hirafu 188

Status: Open from late November If you’re looking for that truly unique gift from Niseko, look no further! Hokkaido fashion label Sara Cleyz has opened its first shop in Hirafu 188, selling high-end clothing made from kimono silk. Go, look, shop and blow your friends away!

EXPERIENCE NISEKO

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niseko guide

Restaurants & Bars International attention and a reputation as one of the leading tourist destinations in Asia have led to the emergence of a lively restaurant and bar scene in Niseko, attracting top chefs from around Japan and overseas. There are options to suit virtually any taste or budget, but be sure to book well ahead, as the leading eateries tend to get booked out very quickly over busy periods.

An Dining

Ezo Seafoods

Kamimura

Kamimura Kamimura will feature highly in most discussions on Niseko dining, and has rightfully earned its reputation as one of the region’s premium dining experiences. The Michelin-starred French restaurant is headed by Owner Chef Yuichi Kamimura, a Hokkaido local who spent years perfecting his craft under the renowned chef Tetsuya Wakuda in Sydney’s Tetsuya’s.

Winter guests can choose to sample Kamimura’s menu at an Early Bird Dinner or, for the full experience, sit down for the highly regarded Chef’s Degustation. Early bookings essential. (kamimura-niseko.com, 0136-212-288)

An Dining The Barn

12 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

An Dining and An Café & Bar are located on the ground floor of Ki Niseko and offer produce-inspired fine and casual dining. Marrying raw creativity with years of international experience, Head Chef Shinichi Maeda uses only the freshest Hokkaido produce to delight the most discerning of guest palates.

Dinner is a high-end, Japanese Izakaya-style meal with an emphasis on the creative use of local ingredients.

Guests are encouraged to share and sample many different flavours and textures whilst enjoying their meal in a gorgeous mountainside setting. (andining.com, eat@andining.com, 013622-5151)

Ezo Seafoods Oyster Bar Ezo Seafoods Oyster Bar is an intimate “Owner Chef” oyster bar and seafood supply shop located on Niseko Hirafu’s Momiji Street. Since its 2009 opening, it has become a hit with the Niseko crowds, who come not only for the fresh and authentic Hokkaido seafood, but for the hospitality of husband and wife duo James Gallagher and Keiko Takaoka (Head Chef). A feature of the restaurant is its display-style menu, which changes frequently depending on what’s fresh and in season. (ezoseafoods.com)

The Barn The Barn is a bistro-style restaurant and bar pairing traditional French cooking with the freshest local produce. True to its name, the restaurant is designed to look like a traditional Hokkaido farm building, with floor to ceiling windows and a high arched roof that make for a dramatic first impression. Thirsty aprèsskiers can also choose to head upstairs to the bar, where the day’s stories can be told over some of Niseko’s best cocktails. (nisekobarn.com, 0136-23-0888)

Niseko Pizza A family run restaurant serving handmade wood-fired pizzas, fresh pasta and a selection of Western favourites. It’s the kind of place best suited to a visit after a long day on the slopes, when a depleted body craves flavoursome, generous portions in a friendly environment.

Niseko Pizza is also a great venue for an après ski drink, with a selection of local and imported beers, wines and a large screen showing snow movies. (nisekopizza.jp, 0136-55-5553)

Toshiro’s A cosy cocktail bar with an extensive selection of original cocktails, whiskies, wines and beers. It’s located in the J-Sekka complex—just a minute’s walk from the Ace Family Pair Lift. (j-sekka.com)

niseko guide

Kutchan

Shopping Niseko shopping is rapidly catching up to the rest of the resort, with a variety of stores around the village and the frequent addition of new retailers to the mix. The shops below come highly recommended, but the best way to see what Niseko has to offer is to take a wander around the village.

Start on Hirafu-zaka, which runs from the Niseko Hirafu traffic lights all the way up to the Welcome Center. The heated pavement makes it safe and easy to get around on foot.

SNOW APPAREL AND EQUIPMENT

iGATE Ikeuchi Located on the ground floor of Hirafu 188 on Hirafu-zaka, iGate Ikeuchi is a high-end retailer supplying a range of high-performance ski and outdoor apparel and accessories. Its flagship brands are KJUS and Arc’teryx—both known for their quality, durable outerwear.

Shoppers who work up a thirst can stop for a coffee break at the iGate Café, which also serves sandwiches, desserts, cakes and cold drinks. (igate-ikeuchi.com) iGATE Ikeuchi

In contrast to the very international Niseko Hirafu, Kutchan is distinctly Japanese and has plenty to offer in the way of shops, restaurants and bars.

Visitors to the resort can get to Kutchan via the Niseko United Shuttle, which is free for those in possession of an all-mountain lift pass.

Supermarket Lucky One of three large supermarkets in Kutchan. International ATMs, Englishspeaking staff and even tuna-cutting demonstrations during winter make it well worth the trip, especially if you’re looking to stock up on more than just the essentials.

Rhythm Snow Sports Rhythm Snow Sports is your one-stop shop for all things snow. The range and quality of their ski and snowboard rental are excellent, and they have an extensive selection of retail products including outerwear, ski and snowboard equipment, accessories and avalanche gear.

For an equipment tune-up or repair job, head to Rhythm Tunes Workshop (inside the store), staffed by a highly knowledgeable team. Rhythm also offers a premium boot fitting service called “Boot Solutions”, which is located on the ground floor of Nozomi Views (next to the store). (skihirejapan.com, 0136-23-0164)

Kutchan town is located just 10 minutes by car from Niseko Hirafu and is another option for those who like to get out and explore.

Rhythm Snow Sports

GROCERIES Seicomart Set right in the centre of the village opposite the traffic lights, the iconic Niseko convenience store stocks an affordable range of Western staples including bread, cereal, pre-made meals, beer, wine, snacks and even Vegemite. It’s reportedly the busiest Seicomart in Japan, so prepare yourself for queues during the rush hour lunch and dinner periods.

Niseko Supermarket & Deli The more upmarket option, Niseko Supermarket & Deli is located on the ground floor of SHIKI Niseko and stocks a quality range of goods including fresh fruit and veg, meat, snacks, bread and imported wines.

The Deli & Bakery (part of the complex) is a favoured pit stop for freshly brewed coffee and a bite to eat, and is open from 7AM—perfect for a quick breakfast en route to the ski hill. (niseko-deli.com, 0136-55-8235)

Bistro Kutchan Sakaba

Bistro Kutchan Sakaba Excellent food at a reasonable price.

Head Chef Tsuyoshi trained at the Michelin-starred French restaurant Kamimura before opening up his own place in Kutchan. His tapas-style menu is complemented with an impressive wine list.

Yoteimaru Sushi Restaurant A sushi train-style setup (kaitenzushi) where you can watch everything being made in front of your eyes. Affordable prices range from around 200–500 yen per plate.

Sports Takiguchi A large sports store with a range of ski and snowboard equipment, apparel and accessories. Cash discounts are common.

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niseko guide

Events There is plenty happening in and around Niseko this winter!

For a full list of events, head to nisekotourism.com.

Otaru Snow Light Path Festival

Santa on the Slopes!

Santa Claus has cleared some time in his very busy schedule and will be hitting the Niseko slopes on Christmas Eve and Christmas day!

Venue: Niseko Grand Hirafu Resort Date: December 24 & 25, 2015 Time: Daytime Details: grand-hirafu.jp

Christmas Reindeer Rides Reindeer Rides

Sapporo Snow Festival

While Santa’s out on the slopes, his reindeer have booked a Christmas play date with the kids of Niseko, and will be giving rides to anyone who’d like to come along! Rides are free for everyone to enjoy, and don’t forget to pop into An Dining before or after to enjoy a hot chocolate, some lunch or a cold drink!

Venue: Ki Niseko Date: December 24 & 25, 2015 Time: 11:30pm–12:00am Details: kiniseko.com

New Year Countdown and the 40th Mountain Torchlight Parade

Mountain Torchlight Parade

Niseko Grand Hirafu Resort will celebrate its 40th New Year countdown in typical Niseko style, with its famous mountain torchlight parade followed by an official countdown and fireworks.

Anyone who can ski or snowboard can volunteer to take part in the parade, so get involved and finish off 2015 with a memory you won’t forget!

Venue: Niseko Grand Hirafu Date: December 31, 2015 Time: 11:30pm–12:00am Details: grand-hirafu.jp

2016 Festival of Japan The Festival of Japan has been set up by Niseko locals with the support of local government and businesses to ensure visitors to Niseko have a chance to discover the many cultural experiences unique to Japan.

The festival will bring together selected artisans and performers, 14 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

chosen because they are at the top of their fields, giving travellers to Niseko a chance to discover first-hand why Japan’s cultural tradition is so revered around the world.

Venue: Various locations, Niseko Hirafu Date: January 20–27, 2016 Details: festivalofjapan.com

Sapporo Snow Festival The internationally renowned Sapporo Snow Festival is the biggest fixture on the list of Japanese winter events. The event, which has been running since 1950, consistently attracts over 2 million visitors a year, many coming from all over the world to see the snow sculptures lining Odori Park.

Visitors can also head to the Susukino venue, which features an ice sculpture contest and an ice bar, or the Tsudome Community Dome, where there is a giant ice slide (among other things)!

Venue: Sapporo Date: February 5–11, 2016 Details: welcome.city.sapporo.jp

Otaru Snow Light Path Festival Prepare to be completely mesmerised by the site of the Otaru Canal lit up by dozens of floating candles, one of the many beautifully lit attractions that make up the Otaru Snow Light Path Festival.

Event organizers ask that visitors “feel easy…think about things leisurely in the glow of the candlelight, and have time to reflect on themselves, forgetting a little of their bothersome daily life in a rapidly changing society.”

In addition to the main attractions, locals put lanterns on display outside shop windows and homes, adding to the festive, spiritual atmosphere.

Location: Otaru (90 minute drive from Niseko Hirafu) Date: February 5–14, 2016 Details: yukiakarinomichi.org

niseko guide

Onsens Unwind the Japanese way and visit one of the local onsens (natural hot spring baths). The Niseko area is particularly famous for the quality of its spring water, coming from deep within the Mt. Yotei interior.

Hotel Kanronomori Onsen

F

or the uninitiated, the onsen experience can be a daunting one—nude, communal bathing in gender segregated baths. But don’t let that dissuade you! It offers a wonderful opportunity to indulge in a uniquely Japanese cultural experience, one with proven health benefits to boot. Niseko locals will tell you there is simply no better way to relieve tired muscles after a long day on the slopes.

Onsen Yukoro Onsen Yukoro is a lively and popular venue due to its convenient location in the Hirafu lower village, and is the go-to option for many looking for a rejuvenating post-ski soak. It has spacious indoor and outdoor baths—the latter providing a truly transfixing experience when the snow is falling. (0136-23-3434)

Yugokorotei Onsen (Annupuri Onsen) Yugokorotei’s geothermal hot spring water leaves its source at a scorching 56.4 degrees Celcius, so it’s not an experience for the faint-of-heart. The water is rich in sodium, hydrogen carbonate, sulfate and chloride, but the real secret of Yugokorotei is its constant supply of fresh water (no recirculation) and premium cleaning facilities. The combination makes for excellent health benefits, and is a particularly effective antidote for sore and tired muscles.

Yugokorotei’s Annupuri location means a short 10 minute drive from Niseko Hirafu—well worth the effort for what is regarded as one of the region’s truly special onsen experiences. (niseko-annupurionsen.com, 0136-58-2500)

Hotel Kanronomori Onsen The message to those who make the 20 minute trip to Hotel Kanronmori Onsen is simple—leave the pressures of life behind you. The onsen hotel, which sits discretely below the Moiwa ski area and next to picturesque national parkland, prides itself on being a haven for relaxation and indulgence. The hot spring water is high in nitrate and slightly sulphuric, aiding relaxation and the relief of tension. (kanronomori.com, 0136-58-3800)

Niseko Prince Hotel Hirafutei Onsen For a soak with a view, the Niseko Prince Hotel Hirafutei Onsen is a popular choice.

Open-air male and female baths offer breathtaking views of Mt. Yotei, and the hotel’s upper village location puts it within a short stroll of the ski slopes. Like many of the onsens in Niseko, it uses 100% pure spring water, with a high concentration of carbon dioxide that is said to help improve blood circulation. (hirafutei.info, 0136-23-2239)

Ki Niseko Onsen Ki Niseko has male and female onsens, both with inside baths as well as outdoor stone rotenburo baths. The onsen water comes from Ki’s own exclusive source, with high mineral content to soothe and refresh a tired body. Complete with saunas and plunge pools, the Ki onsen is the perfect place to end your day in a relaxed state of mind. In addition to the male and female onsens, there are two private family onsens, available for reservation after check-in.

In winter, the Ki Niseko onsen is available only to hotel guests; however, it opens to the public over the summer. (kiniseko.com/onsen)

Ki Niseko Onsen

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niseko guide

Activities You’ll never be short on things to do in and around Niseko! Take part in one of Niseko’s world-class snowsports programs or, for a chance to rest the legs, try one of the many other activities on offer around the village.

GoSnow Ski & Snowboard Lessons

SNOWMOBILING Snowmobiling offers a fantastic chance to rest the legs from rigours of skiing and snowboarding, while still providing a thrilling day out.

White Isle Snowmobile Park is a great place to try your hand at snowmobiling, with a selection of tours at various times and locations. It’s an enjoyable activity for the entire family, as kids have the option to do a twin ride with an adult driver. (niseko-weiss.co.jp)

MASSAGE

SKI & SNOWBOARD LESSONS

POWDER GUIDING

Gondola Snowsports (GoSnow) is Niseko Grand Hirafu’s official international snowsports school, with a team of accredited instructors from Europe, Australia and North America conducting lessons exclusively in English. They cater to most people’s requirements, offering group lessons, privates and specialised workshops.

GoSnow is conveniently based next to the Hirafu Gondola and has Grand Hirafu’s only private beginner area with a magic carpet.

Finding the best powder on the mountain can be a tough ask without the guidance of a professional or an intimate knowledge of the resort. Safety is also a factor that anyone should take seriously if they are planning to enter the backcountry via Niseko’s gate system.

GoSnow’s powder guides have the expertise to find you the best snow and terrain on the mountain in the safest possible environment. Priority access to the Hirafu Gondola and Ace Quad (Center 4) lifts also means you’ll avoid the queues and be the first to the top on a powder day.

(gondolasnowsports.com, 0136-23-2665, lessons@gondolasnowsports.com)

Ninja Kid

Snowmobiling

There are few better ways to help tired muscles recover quickly than a professional massage. For the most professional of the lot, Niseko Massage is your answer. Their highly qualified, experienced massage therapists will soothe your muscles and freshen your mind in preparation for the next big day on the mountain.

They are based conveniently opposite Seicomart in the centre of Hirafu. Best of all, for an additional 2,000 yen per therapist you can arrange a house call, so there’s no need to leave the comfort of your accommodation! (nisekomassage.com, 0136-22-0399)

FOR THE KIDS NAC Kids Garden The Kids Garden is a giant indoor playground inside JoJo’s Cafe & Restaurant (part of the Niseko Adventure Centre). Kids will keep themselves busy exploring the playground, while parents can enjoy a quiet glass of wine or a meal.

It’s the perfect place for your young ones this winter!

Meet the Ninja Kid! Be on the lookout for this cool kid! He’s often found riding around Niseko Grand Hirafu Resort or practicing his ninja skills near the Hirafu Gondola. He’s very friendly and loves to meet new friends from all over the world.

Snow Tubing and Sledding Sliding down the hill in a giant inflatable tube or sled is as fun as it sounds! Great for the young or young-at-heart, it’s an activity bound to leave smiles on everyone’s faces. Children as young as three years old can get involved! (hanazononiseko.com, 0136-21-6688) 16 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

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STAYING POWER How to last longer on the mountain in Niseko Without a doubt Niseko is defined by its bottomless powder, with visitors coming from far and wide to experience some of the best skiing and boarding conditions in the world. However, you don’t get snow as good as this without facing some extreme weather patterns. Here’s our advice on what gear you’ll need to take on the mountain and maximise your time on the skis or board.

STAY AFLOAT!

WAX ON

The best way to take advantage of what Niseko has to offer is by making sure you have the most suitable equipment. Powderspecific skis will help you stay afloat even on the deepest days by providing a wide platform under your feet and a rocker tip and tail, allowing for better manoeuvrability and speed. Powder boards are also designed specifically to handle deep snow.

Local ski and board shops are a great place to start looking for your powder specific gear. In Niseko you can check out Rhythm Snow Sports where helpful staff will point you in the right direction.

In order to perform to the best of their ability your skis or snowboard need to be well maintained. This means not only waxing and tuning them, but making sure this is done specifically to the conditions you’ll be riding in. In Niseko, this means they need to be ready to take on the cold weather and, of course, the powder. With this in mind it’s a good idea to check in with a tuning shop like Rhythm Tunes when you arrive in Niseko as they’ll be able to give your gear the local’s touch.

FEET FIRST To make the most of your time on the ski hill you’ll need to be comfortable from the ground up. Finding the right fitting (ski or board) boots can be a difficult task so it’s definitely worth consulting a professional.

Boot fitters are highly qualified individuals who specialise in identifying and fixing any foot or boot related issues. The staff at Boot Solutions in Niseko includes podiatrists who have the medical, biomechanical and technical knowledge it takes to guarantee your feet stay happier on the mountain for longer.

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AMAZING BASE If you want to enjoy everything that Niseko has to offer then you’ll need to make staying warm a priority. The best way to do this is by investing in a set of thermal underwear that sits close to your skin and keeps your core at the ideal temperature.

Niseko based snow-wear company Oyuki makes its base layers from Australian merino wool, a material that performs perfectly in sub zero temperatures.

It even stays warm while you sweat, which means you won’t have to come off the mountain early just because you’re feeling the chill.

GLOVES UP! Keeping your fingers toasty is definitely key if you want to keep riding until the lifts stop turning. Not all gloves and mitts are created equal though so you’ll need to do some research to make sure you have the best pair possible. The Oyuki range of mitts and gloves is a great place to start delving into the world of super warm hand apparel. For example, the Shaka Mitt is made of premium goatskin leather so it’s soft, manoeuvrable and comfortable, while its Primiloft insulation stops the cold.

LOOK GOOD STAY WARM

OUTERWEAR | APPAREL | BASE LAYERS | FOOT WEAR | MOUNTAIN ACCESSORIES CALL | +81 136 22 4199 | beatsniseko.com | OPERATING HOURS | 8:00am to 10:00pm | LOCATED IN THE CENTRE OF TOWN, ACROSS FROM THE TRAFFIC LIGHTS | OUTERWEAR BRANDS INCLUDE:

Interest in Niseko is stronger than ever and, thanks to local food personalities like Shinichi Maeda, James Gallagher, Keiko Takaoka and Takuma Okada, it’s not just for the snow.

Niseko’s Food Revolution WORDS: RUPERT ORCHARD JAPANESE INTERVIEWS AND TRANSLATIONS: YUKO MOROI

20 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

N

iseko’s international reputation has been largely built on the vast quantities of light, dry snow that blanket the resort from November to April each year. It has long been a Mecca for the dedicated powder hunter, and will continue to attract hundreds of thousands of thrill-seekers for the 2015/16 winter season.

Less well known is that in recent years, Niseko has also focused attention on its dining scene, which is rapidly becoming a crowd-puller in its own right.

While abundant snow and world-class terrain have rightly become an expectation of any winter trip to Niseko, it’s the quality and diversity of restaurants, bars and cafés in the village that are leaving a lasting impression on many.

The international spotlight has naturally fallen on establishments like the iconic Michelin-starred Kamimura, the highly sought-after Rakuichi (soba restaurant) or Restaurant Asperges Niseko—led by the acclaimed 3 star Michelin Chef Hiroshi Nakamichi. But to focus solely on Niseko’s well-established high-end venues would not do justice to the fascinatingly diverse scene that is emerging, courtesy of industry personalities like Shinichi Maeda (An Dining), Keiko Takaoka and James Gallagher (Ezo Seafoods), and Takuma Okada (L’ocanda).

Their unique stories are a testament to how much Niseko dining has evolved over the last 10 years, showcasing the cornucopia of local Hokkaido produce and offering menus to delight a truly international clientele.

Shinichi Maeda Executive Chef, An Dining In 2014, Shinichi Maeda returned to his native Hokkaido after a 12-year stint in Queensland, Australia. In the closing years of his Australian journey, he worked as Head Chef at Brisbane

favourite Sake Restaurant and Bar, winning a coveted Chef’s Hat in the Queensland Food Guide and, in the process, establishing himself as one of Australia’s top Asian chefs.

Following this successful and defining period in his career, Maeda was lured to Niseko with the prospect of a return to his home province and an opportunity to establish his mark in one of the country’s emerging food hotspots.

He opened An Dining for the start of the 2014/15 winter season and just a year on is making waves in what was already a reputable Niseko dining scene. He has been referred to as a “poster child” for the new Niseko—his recipe for success combining years of international experience with an infectious passion for preparing Hokkaido produce.

A chef and an educator Niseko’s popularity with Australian crowds makes it a fitting location for Maeda’s return to Japan. However, it is the town’s increasingly diverse clientele—particularly from other parts of Asia—that has interested Maeda.

“Niseko used to be 60 or 70% Australian, but these days there are so many people from other parts of Asia— Malaysia, Thailand, Taiwan, China, Hong Kong, Singapore...so many places.

“In the last 12 years, I’ve worked with people from 20 or 30 countries. Many cooked for me and shared a huge variety EXPERIENCE NISEKO

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of different foods and cultures. It’s made me really understand a global culture—a mixed international culture. Niseko is [now] just like this.”

Maeda prides himself on finding creative new ways to showcase Hokkaido’s world-renowned produce, but his talents extend well beyond his ability to put food on a plate. He believes his overseas experiences have equipped him with the ability to interpret the

ingredients that are so readily available.

He makes at least two early morning trips per week to visit the fishing ports (gyokko) in Iwanai and Suttsu, to check the day’s catch and find out what’s in season. He follows this with a strategic drive to farms and suppliers in the area, always on the lookout for the freshest ingredients or to expand his ever-growing network of farmers and industry contacts.

making salt on the coast. Then we could truly survive within only 30 or 40 minutes from this town.”

Maeda insists he rarely sees other chefs on his outings, but he believes the regular trips are essential for following seasonal trends and getting the best products for his diners.

“I visit the farmers and fishermen every week and I always see something different. The fruits are changing, the vegetables are changing, and the fish are changing. That’s really unique. If you miss two weeks, you might need to wait until the following year [to see the same thing again].

“It definitely affects my menu at An Dining almost every week. Not always massive changes, but different sauces, different condiments. Even when I print the menu, I need to tell the customers: ‘Today’s different.’ Things are not always available. But this is a positive.”

The menu

Known to some as “fish-boy”, Shinichi Maeda is regularly seen joining local fishing trips in an effort to better understand the work and the seasonal trends.

Japanese food experience for his guests, to share his knowledge and passion with those who are new to Japanesestyle dining.

Diners will often find the affable chef doing the rounds of the tables at his restaurant, always eager to respond to questions about his food and the inspiration behind each dish.

“I’m good at taking local Hokkaido produce and introducing it to international guests. My approach is not just to serve old-school Japanese food, but to teach people how to eat, which wines and sakes to pair with the food, as well as to share the stories behind the various components of their meal.”

Depending on the season, his drives will yield fresh supplies of watermelons, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbages, broccoli, rice and potatoes. He is restricted from buying directly from the fishing ports himself, so he enlists the help of a registered middle man.

Maeda is full of praise for the place he now calls home.

“I think this [Niseko] is a miracle place. Within a 30-minute drive we can get everything. We can meet the farmers and fishermen and see the produce.

We can put it together. We have fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, wines, sake and beer. Probably all we need is a soy sauce or miso factory somewhere, or someone

Maeda’s dinner “course menu” is a traditional kaiseki affair with an emphasis on the five flavours—sweet, bitter, salty, spicy and umami. Seasonal variations make it difficult to predict exactly what to expect on any single occasion, though Maeda has a number of specialties that his guests keep coming back for.

As a former sushi chef of Tokyo’s Ichiz Ginza, his sashimi has become somewhat of an An Dining signature, for which he uses local catch from Suttsu and Iwanai—often wild salmon, flounder or kingfish. Maeda’s Jingisukan-style slow braised Hokkaido wagyu beef cheek is a regular favourite, as is his Takigawa duck breast with crispy lily bulb and mandarin vinegar.

And there is perhaps no better dish to tuck into after a day on the slopes than the slow-braised Ebetsu pork belly with honey soy, accompanied by Kutchan potato purée (Niseko Hirafu’s neighbouring town).

Maeda is happy as long as his guests are taking pleasure in the food that he has become so attached to.

“I just want to show them how to enjoy”, he says.

Niseko: an agricultural utopia Maeda’s passion for sharing and educating makes him the ideal ambassador for Hokkaido and its top seafood and other produce. Since arriving in Niseko, he has been delighted by the quality and diversity of local 22 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

My approach is not just to serve old-school Japanese food, but to teach people how to eat.

SHINICHI MAEDA

Right: James Gallagher with the product that inspired his journey with Ezo Seafoods.

Below: Keiko Takaoka receives her diploma from the prestigious Luis Irizar Sukaldaritza Eskola (Luis Irizar School of Cooking) in San Sebastian in 2012.

James Gallagher & Keiko Takaoka Ezo Seafoods Oyster Bar James Gallagher is another Niseko food personality whose success has been built on a commitment to finding the best Hokkaido produce for his customers. But like many of the foreigners who relocate to Niseko, his career was initially in real estate, working in the property division for Hokkaido Tracks. It was through putting on “oyster nights” for his clients that his interest and knack for sourcing seafood began to take shape.

“These events were quite popular and each year the customers would ask me for ‘more of those great oysters’, so I learnt about where to source oysters to start with, and before long, scallops and crab”, says Gallagher. “I also realised that I quite enjoyed that kind of work.”

In 2009, the property market dried up and Gallagher left his job. It was an opportunity to start afresh. Just before the start of the 2009/10 ski season, he and his wife Keiko Takaoka opened Ezo Seafoods, a cozy seafood shop and oyster bar located on Niseko Hirafu’s Momiji St.

A dedication to quality In the past six years, Ezo Seafoods Oyster Bar has become a Niseko institution, often booked out months in advance and a favourite amongst Niseko regulars. But Gallagher’s formula has stayed the same, and the numbers are a reflection of the hard work he puts into procuring the freshest seafood.

“I travel every day during the season to the Sapporo Wholesale Markets or coastal fishmongers and also have connections with salmon fishermen in the north of Hokkaido. It’s a five-hour

round trip which is tough during winter because it means I have to get up at 4:30am! But I like to see the produce myself every day. It gives me an idea of what’s fresh and in season, and I learn a lot from talking to the wholesalers— knowledge that I can pass on to my discerning customers.”

Gallagher considers himself fortunate. “I think we are lucky to have an abundance of such excellent seafood in Hokkaido—oysters, crab, shellfish and fish, to name a few.” But he also knows there’s more to success than simply finding the best ingredients. “A lot of people also highly rate Chef Keiko and her team’s cooking.”

Head Chef Keiko Takaoka Keiko Takaoka’s ability to get the most out of the seafood she uses has been a key ingredient in the Ezo Seafoods formula, an ability Gallagher puts down to her “simplicity, flair and discriminating emphasis on fresh produce and ingredients”. She is highly rated in the industry, in which she has a long family history.

Takaoka is the eldest daughter of a family that has cultivated rice for generations, and was trained in traditional Japanese cooking from a young age.

“My mother taught me the basics of growing and preparing vegetables— from using mineral rich soil, water and sunlight, to planting, harvesting, cooking and finally serving”, says Takaoka. “We lived close by to the port town of Choshi, so I grew up eating fresh fish and shellfish almost every day. I learned to prepare sashimi and how to grill, braise, vinegar and steam fish. In the kitchen we mostly used condiments

of soy sauce, sake, sugar and ginger.”

These early lessons would go on to have a defining influence on Takaoka’s style as a professional chef—initially running a catering service in Niseko from 2005 to 2008, before finding her calling with Ezo Seafoods.

Many of the dishes that she prepares in the Ezo Seafoods kitchen are the ones she grew up eating and learning to cook under the guidance of her mother.

Naturally she also uses her family’s rice —“Koshihikari”—in all of her rice dishes.

Over the years, Takaoka has expanded her repertoire through extensive travel and overseas training courses, tasting and experimenting with a variety of new foods and flavours. But there’s an ingredient that has remained constant through the entire journey.

“I would say ‘love’ is the most important thing about my food. I prepare each and every dish with love and consider every guest as a family member. I also make a delicious meals for staff every day. Just like family, I want them to eat and live healthily.”

Ezo Seafoods finds a second home Gallagher and Takaoka’s success in Niseko ultimately led them away from Hokkaido, albeit temporarily. In June 2015 they opened “Ezo Seafoods Summer” in the beautiful Izu Peninsula, renovating an old katsugyo-style building with 180-degree views and large tanks supplied with seawater pumped directly from the ocean.

Gallagher hoped this would inspire a different kind of atmosphere.

“It’s the sort of place you dream about going to after six months in the white world of Niseko’s winter.

“I wanted to create a space which the local ocean-loving population of divers, EXPERIENCE NISEKO

23

Takuma Okada, feeling at home in his family-run Italian restaurant, L’ocanda.

He spent four years as a young chef in Tuscany before returning to Niseko Hirafu.

yachties and beachgoers can call their own, so encourage deck shoes, board shorts, wetsuits and fun summer attire.”

The Izu Peninsula was an obvious choice for the husband and wife duo, who were attracted to the area renowned for its beautiful coastline, seafood and ocean-connected lifestyle. The restaurant overlooks Izu’s Suruga Bay, which is the one of the best-known sources of seafood in Japan and supplies many of Tokyo’s most highly-acclaimed seafood eateries.

But Gallagher couldn’t help but bring a little bit of Niseko with him.

“There is so much good fresh seafood in the area that we decided to take more of an international approach to the menu, offering cooked seafood dishes such as garlic shrimp, squid ink paella and acquapazza-style cooked fish. Of course we use local seafoods, but we have also “imported” some Hokkaido seafood as well, such as salmon and scallops. We also offer top-quality sashimi.”

Gallagher and Takoka have now closed “Summer” for the winter and, despite a steep learning curve and early teething problems, were very pleased with their first season. They used the same “display-style menu” that has been a hit with the Niseko crowds and, over the space of just a few months, built up a loyal base of customers.

They are now back in Niseko for the 15/16 season, and while they continue to strive to deliver the tastiest seafood to their guests, Gallagher has another simple goal.

“I am actually happiest when people praise the warm hospitality of our staff and the friendly atmosphere.”

24 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

I can feel and appreciate the connection that the local people have to the harvest. It confirms in my mind that there’s no other place I’d rather be.

TAKUMA OK ADA

Takuma Okada Head Chef, L’ocanda Like Shinichi Maeda, Takuma Okada spent many of his formative years as a chef outside Japan. After working as an apprentice in an Italian restaurant in Sapporo after high school, Okada embarked on an audacious move to Tuscany in Italy when he was twentysix. He was attracted in part by the famed Tuscan cuisine but, importantly, because the region has a similar latitude to Hokkaido. The ingredients and harvest would therefore be similar and, in turn, the skills transferable. A transition back to Hokkaido and to his family’s base in Niseko Hirafu was in his mind from the outset.

Training in Tuscany For Okada, finding and choosing a restaurant in which to work required a simple strategy.

“I would visit a restaurant and order a meal. If I thought the meal was good, I would visit the kitchen and ask the chef how the meal was prepared. Most Italian restaurants, big or small, have established systems for accepting and

developing young chefs in the making.”

Okada eventually found a live-in role in a family-run restaurant and set to work learning traditional techniques and recipes. To supplement his training in the kitchen, he also took on work in a nearby butcher, which he discovered was a pathway to a deeper understanding of Italian food culture.

“In Europe, the prominent ingredient in most meals is meat. To get to know the culture of meat and its place in European cooking it was important not just to learn by the book, but to see the process in real life.

“I had the chance to see live cattle slaughtered in a very traditional way. It’s the reality of where meat comes from, and important to understand as a chef.

“Initially the customers who visited the butcher had more of an understanding about the different cuts of meat than I did. It was an eye-opening experience, because it’s very different from the way things are in Japan.”

A return home In 2012, after four years abroad, Okada had a call from his parents requesting

that he make the trip back home to help them open a family restaurant in Niseko Hirafu. Okada knew it was time.

He and his family opened L’ocanda shortly afterwards in a location just east of Niseko Hirafu village, with views over Mt. Yotei to one side and the ski resorts on Mt. Annupuri to the other. Okada took the helm in the kitchen, preparing traditional, wholesome Tuscan cuisine, while his younger brother—a pâtissier—took on desserts. His father assisted Okada in the kitchen, and his mother served guests and took care of the restaurant’s interior. It is a formula that has proved hugely successful since L’ocanda’s opening four years ago.

“I am proud to run the restaurant with my family. It is always valuable to have a ‘real’ opinion from the other family members when a new menu is introduced, and I can get advice from my parents about the local vegetables,

which they are more familiar with. Each family member respects one another.”

The importance of family is a value central to the success of L’ocanda, and one that left a lasting impression from his years in Tuscany.

“I learnt about the importance of the bond of the Italian family, in which the ‘mama chef’, her cooking and her flavours play a vital role. This was especially evident during my time as a live-in chef. It was an element of the life there that I found very attractive.”

Connection to Niseko Hirafu The influence that Okada’s years in Italy have had on him is clear to anyone who has met the chef and sampled his dishes.

And yet, Okada feels a bond to his home town that is as strong as ever.

“I grew up in this area and I love Hirafu. I can feel and appreciate the connection that the local people have to

the harvest. It confirms in my mind that there’s no other place I’d rather be.”

Okada is also proud to use local ingredients and produce in his cooking.

It is a pride that he shares with Shinichi Maeda, James Gallagher, Keiko Takaoko and many other chefs in the village, and perhaps sheds some light on why Niseko dining has evolved in a way that it is now drawing the attention of the world. Okada’s words, like his food, are worth savouring.

“I have a passion for cooking but, more importantly, I focus on being one of the local people. The most important element of my lifestyle is Niseko. My dishes are part of it. By truly appreciating the fresh, local ingredients, I get better results in my cooking. The better results connect people, which gives me joy because I can feel my influence. This is what gives me passion.”

Niseko’s Queen of Coffee Yukiko Touge Owner, Sprout Outdoor Espresso Yukiko Touge is helping give rise to a product that few would associate with Japan’s northernmost prefecture. A good coffee is an essential beginning to a day on the slopes for some, and Touge’s Sprout Café has answered the call.

She and her husband arrived in Niseko from Chiba more than 10 years ago, just as Niseko’s reputation as an international snow destination was really starting to take hold. As a coffee lover herself, she sensed a growing need for a casual venue where people could enjoy a drink and gather naturally.

Inspired by the Niseko outdoors—a passion she shares with her husband and former NAC rafting guide—the concept for Sprout Outdoor Espresso was born.

“There was no takeout coffee shop in town at that time”, says Touge. Both of us liked coffee and the outdoors, so the concept (espresso + outdoors) was an idea that came out to us. It was that simple.”

Sprout Outdoor Espresso has since grown into the area’s premier coffee venue, located in front of Kutchan Station on Kutchan Ekimae Dori (perfect for those in transit). But visitors to Niseko Hirafu will also be able to enjoy a coffee at one of the Sprout Mini coffee stands located inside Yama Shizen and Youtei Tracks during winter. Naturally, Sprout Outdoor Espresso also supports many of Niseko’s outdoor events, details of which can be found at sprout-project.com.

Try a coffee inspired by the Niseko outdoors!

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Blessed with powder snow A history of powder skiing in Niseko WORDS MASAHARU TANIGUCHI

26 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

experience niseko history

H

okkaido lies at the northernmost extreme of the Japanese archipelago, and the inland areas of Hokkaido have had a very different history from other parts of Japan. After the arrival of the modern age, Hokkaido saw the influx of large numbers of immigrants from Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu islands for full-scale development of the island.

In the coastal areas on the Sea of Japan, fishery and commerce involving the indigenous Ainu people had been actively pursued since the Middle Ages.

The industrial history of Niseko dates from the final decades of the Edo era, (the early 19th century).

Sulfur mine at Mt. Iwaonupuri In 1806, when Japan was still known as a country of samurai, sulfur mined at Mt. Iwaonupuri in Niseko was transported to Iwanai, near the Sea of Japan. Full-scale mining of sulfur started in 1861 when a mountain path was completed. The path later became the Niseko Panorama Line highway.

In the Meiji era (1868-1912), Benjamin Smith Lyman, an American geologist employed by the Meiji government, conducted a survey before starting large-scale mining. Sulfur from Niseko was used for match heads and was an important export for Hokkaido. Despite several changes of ownership, the Iwaonupuri sulfur mine ran until 1937.

The mining site is one of the Modern Industrial Heritage Sites of Japan.

Hot spring resorts In later years, the Niseko area became known for hot springs. In 1885, the first intermittent spring in this area was found in the southern foothills of Mt. Chisenupuri, and a small house was

Above: Kutchan villagers enjoy skiing around 1913 Below: Preparations for a competition, before ski lifts came to Hirafu around 1957

built beside the spring. The spring is now known as Yumoto Spa. In 1894, Kunikichi Yamada, one of the first settlers in Kutchan, found a hot spring in the eastern foothills of Mt. Niseko Annupuri. He founded Yamada Spa in 1897. This spa led to the development of the Aza Yamada district of Kutchan, where Niseko Grand Hirafu is now located.

At the upper reaches of the Shiribetsu River, where the town of Rankoshi would later be developed, Narita Spa (now called Yakushi Spa) was founded in 1896 and Miyakawa Spa (now Koikawa Spa) in 1898. In 1905, Aoyama Spa started operating in the same town, although it has since closed. Over time, Niseko became one of the largest hot spring villages in Hokkaido.

Start of railway operations In 1904, railway service was inaugurated between Otaru and Hakodate on a line that would become the Hakodate Main Line of the Hokkaido Railway Company.

Railway service helped to increase peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interest in the hot springs and scenic sites of Niseko. Hot spring development accelerated in the 20th century. In 1908, Ogawa Spa (now closed) started business along an old road leading from Kutchan to a sulfur mine.

Around the same time, Niimi Spa started operations deep in the mountains of

EXPERIENCE NISEKO

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Rankoshi. Between 1920 and 1926, Inoue Spa and Inamura Spa began operations.

These two spas together developed into what is now Goshiki Spa. In its vicinity, the Niseko Yama-no-Ie lodge, run by the Sapporo Railway Bureau (now the Hokkaido Railway Company), opened in the winter of 1937.

An early lift ticket

1912: The first year of skiing in Niseko Skiing in Niseko dates from 1912, when Lieutenant Colonel Theodor von Lerch visited Niseko and skied Mt. Yotei. Von Lerch (1869-1945) visited Japan from Austria-Hungary to inspect Japanese troops in November 1910. This is after Japan, an emerging power, had begun attracting world attention by defeating Russia, a great power, in the RussoJapanese War (1904-1905). An excellent skier, the lieutenant colonel was asked by the Japanese army to train the 58th Infantry Regiment based in Takada, Niigata Prefecture. The ski training provided by the lieutenant colonel was the first opportunity for Japanese to learn skiing techniques in earnest.

The lieutenant colonel also visited Hokkaido and gave ski training to the 7th Division stationed in Asahikawa, in February 1912. On April 15 of the same year, he visited Kutchan to conclude his training in Hokkaido with a ski mountaineering excursion up Mt. Yotei.

On the following day, he skied with a single pole in front of residents in Kutchan, a village known for deep snow.

It was the first time for them to know of skiing, and they were immediately attracted by skis, which were novel to them. On April 17, Lieutenant Colonel von Lerch carried out his plan to ski up Mt. Yotei, which was reported in the newspapers as a marvelous feat. Many young people outside Niseko who read about the lieutenant colonel began to enjoy skiing in the mountains of Niseko.

The start of the Niseko Kogen Kanko lifts in 1961 In January 1926, 14 years after the first skiing in Kutchan by Lieutenant Colonel von Lerch, students at Kutchan Junior High School went ski mountaineering at Mt. Niseko Annupuri. They left Yamada Spa, on what is now Grand Hirafu, and reached the summit in two and a half hours. Twelve years later, in 1938, the All-Japan Intercollegiate Alpine Ski Championships were held here. As a result of other ski events that took 28 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Staff in the early years

The All-Japan Alpine Ski Championship in 1962

Timeline 1883 A ski association is formed in Oslo, Norway.

1892 The first settlers come to the wilderness of Kutchan.

1907 Production of wooden skis starts in France.

1912 Lieutenant Colonel von Lerch and his party show people in Kutchan how to ski on April 16.

The following day, he ascends Mt. Yotei on skis.

1929 Trains begin to run in winter between Sapporo and ski areas in Niseko. A temporary “train hotel” is established at Kutchan Station.

1931 The first FIS Alpine Ski World Championship (now the World Ski Championships) is staged in Murren, Switzerland.

1957 The Soviet Union launches Sputnik I, the world’s first artificial satellite.

1961 The first lifts in Niseko are completed. The ski areas are named Niseko Kogen Hirafu Ski Resort, because the nearest railway station is Hirafu. Yuri Gagarin returns from the world’s first manned space flight, after orbiting the Earth once.

place afterward, the ski runs in Hirafu gradually took shape.

In the early 1960s, the Town of Kutchan was trying to attract business investment. One potential investor was Hokkaido Fiberboard, which then had plans to use chishima-zasa (Sasa kuralensis), an evergreen dwarf bamboo growing in the Niseko Mountains, for plywood production. Although the business plans stalled, the mayor and people of the town negotiated with the company about the possibility of converting into a ski lift the cableway that had been planned for the collection of this dwarf bamboo. At that time, the townspeople hoped to host the All-Japan Alpine Ski Championships in

Telemark skiers and snowboarders from other parts of Japan. Niseko is widely recognized as one of the most important ski areas in Japan.

The town of Hirafu and the advance of internationalization Ski resorts and the associated ski culture have brought many things to Hirafu.

Immediately after the construction of the first lifts, local farmers opened inns and lodges that supported the development of ski areas. They warmly welcomed many skiers from outside the town. In the 1980s, some frequent visitors settled in Hirafu and opened resort inns and restaurants. They had hopes and expectations for a new way of

Niseko is now widely recognized as one of the most important ski areas in Japan.

March 1962, the year marking the 50th anniversary of the visit by Lieutenant Colonel von Lerch. Their hope was fulfilled as a result of considerable efforts and dedication by many people who loved mountains and skiing. Niseko Kogen Kanko Co., Ltd., which now operates Grand Hirafu, was established in order to construct lifts. On December 17, 1961, the Niseko Kogen Kanko lifts entered operation. There were two lift lines, with a combined length of 1,070 m.

Ski resort development

Lieutenant Colonel Theodor von Lerch

1965 St. Moritz Lift Co., Ltd. opens business in the Niseko Hirafu area.

1969 Apollo 11 lands the first humans on the moon.

1975 The tradition of skiing with torches on New Year’s Eve starts.

1984 Quad gondolas start operating at Niseko Kogen. Macintosh PCs are released by Apple Inc. 1986 Night operation of gondolas starts.

1994 All the ski runs become open to snowboarding. Hanazono opens.

2011 Ski lifts mark their 50th anniversary on Dec. 17.

In 1965, alpine lifts built by St. Moritz Lift Co., Ltd. entered operation in Hirafu. Riding the crest of a skiing boom in the years preceding the 1972 Winter Olympic Games hosted by Sapporo, both Niseko Kogen Kanko Co., Ltd. and St. Moritz Lift Co., Ltd. expanded lifts, ski lodges, hotels and other facilities. In the 1980s, high-speed state-of-the-art quad lifts and gondolas were built in quick succession, as were large lodges.

After the Winter Olympics in Sapporo, ski resort development was actively pursued at Mt. Niseko Annupuri.

Niseko Annupuri International Ski Resort and Niseko Higashiyama Ski Resort (now Niseko Village) opened in December 1972 and 1982, respectively.

Some young skiers who were raised in Niseko and have trained there have been successful enough to participate in the All-Japan Championships and the Olympics. The powder snow at Niseko has attracted many skillful

life in Hirafu. That was the forerunner of Hirafu’s inn and restaurant district.

Between the 1990s and the 2000s, when snowboarding became popular, the favorable topography and powder snow in Hirafu attracted people in increasing numbers. The Hanazono runs opened on the north side of Hirafu ski area in 1992. Since the 1997 introduction of a system that makes it possible to access all the ski slopes of Mt. Niseko Annupuri by using a single lift ticket, visitors have been skiing and snowboarding in wider areas in a day.

Since the beginning of the 21st century, the numbers of Australian skiers visiting Niseko for its superior “Niseko powder” have been rapidly increasing.

Because they stay in Niseko for the medium and long term, condominiums have been built one after another by Australian and British companies. Hanazono Resort was purchased by an Australian company that then sold it to a Hong Kong-based company. Higashiyama Ski Resort was sold to an American company and then to a Malaysian company. With the active participation of these foreign players, businesses and a unique ski resort culture are flourishing in Niseko.

Skiing and snowboarding in winter are ever at the center of the ongoing development here.

■ Extracted with permission from A History of Powder Skiing in Niseko (2011), published by The Committee for Publishing History of Ski Resorts Development at Hirafu.

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Unplug and Escape

With a Family Summer Adventure in Niseko Have you ever seen what lies beneath the blanket of snow that covers Niseko? Or heard about the famed fresh Hokkaido produce that springs up in summertime, stretching across green fields from the foot of Mount Yotei to distant mountain peaks?

Summer in Niseko offers families a chance to step back, unplug and escape from the ordinary.

T

he temperate climate and fresh mountain air invigorate the senses of children and adults alike, and this new energy doesn’t go to waste. There are berries to be picked at local farms, Japanese Taiko drumming classes with local students, and tents to be pitched on the shores of the volcanic caldera Lake Toya. Work up an appetite exploring and learning outdoors all day, and then satisfy your cravings with the delectable ‘green season’ creations of Niseko’s renowned chefs. Kids can’t stay away from the playgrounds and woodland hiking trails and there’s plenty to keep adults busy too…whether it’s a round of

golf at a nearby award-winning course, or a glass of wine on your private patio.

Summer in Niseko is delightfully conducive to a distinctive kind of lifestyle—even if it’s only for a week! You won’t see your kids reaching for their smartphones when their hands are busy building their own skateboards.

Checking your inbox will be far from your mind when you’re watching your children discover where fresh milk and eggs really come from, or sampling local favourites —Milk Kobo choux crème, anyone? Let nature take the reins as you soak up the last of the sun’s rays before it dips behind the mountains and the crickets take up

their nightly chirping.

For an all-encompassing summer escape, why not join EdVenture, an immersive camp designed to help families make the most of Hokkaido’s incredible green season. The week-long program connects kids with new friends from Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan and Japan. It takes full advantage of its location at The Orchards Niseko, the locale for morning yoga, arts and crafts, treasure hunts and weekly barbeques.

Hands-on activities make quick work of breaking down any cultural barriers and bring the spirit out of even the most shy child.

■ Visit edventureniseko.com for more details about camp activities, dates, registration and winter camp options.

32 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Women in Blue Meet the women behind Niseko’s newest all-female snowsports workshop.

Tareesa Straatmans, Margie Messinbird Demarco and Maja Botic have between them worked more than 40 winter seasons as snowsports instructors, spanning a number of countries that most will not see in a lifetime of travel. For the 2015/16 season, they bring their experience to Japan, and will help Gondola Snowsports deliver Niseko’s newest allfemale workshop.

Experience Niseko caught up with the three women to chat about their hopes for the workshop, their thoughts on Niseko as an international ski destination, and their advice for visitors to the snowy resort.

34 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

TAREESA STRAATMANS Snowsports Director

T

areesa leads the charge at GoSnow and is a highly regarded snowboard trainer and examiner for the APSI (Australian Professional Snowsports Instructors) who has been teaching around the world since she was 16 years old.

Primarily setting herself up in Whistler, Canada and Perisher, Australia early in her career, she first came to Niseko in 2011 on the back of advice of a friend and was taken aback by the quality of the conditions.

Experience Niseko: How did you first get into instructing?

Tareesa: “This is going to sound really cheesy, but I actually wanted to be an instructor from when I was a kid. It’s what I wanted to do when I grew up.

“When I was 16, I started as an instructor in Australia—actually as a ski instructor. It took me three seasons before I could get a job as a snowboard instructor.

Once I started, I loved it and haven’t wanted to move onto anything else.”

■ NATIONALITY: Australian ■ SEASONS IN NISEKO: 4 ■ TOTAL WINTER SEASONS: 25 Experience Niseko: What is it that makes you keep coming back to Niseko?

Tareesa: “Initially I came over for the snow. After that, I felt like I couldn’t go back to another northern hemisphere resort, that it wouldn’t be the same. Now it’s other things I really love about Japan—the culture, in particular, and the people.

That element to it is just amazing.”

Experience Niseko: What made you decide to introduce a Women’s Workshop for 2015/16?

Tareesa: “The introduction of the Women’s Workshops is something I’m quite passionate about. In Whistler I taught a similar program—it was called the Roxy Women’s Camp at the time— and it was a hugely successful camp that ran over two days, specifically for women.”

Experience Niseko: As an instructor, what is it about an all-female group that you think helps the rider progress?

Tareesa: “I do enjoy riding with both men and women, but I find that when you get a group of women together who push each other it really does push you a lot more.

“Seeing other women who are strong riders, and thinking, ‘If she can do it, I can do it’. It’s a really great thing to be a part of. Especially being able to get women to achieve things that they thought they might not be able to do.

“I also find that women like to attack things differently from men. A lot of men will just give things a go and don’t often slow it down to work on the technique, and how you actually perform those movements properly. It’s a generalisation, but I find a lot of women like to take things slower, break things down and work on correct movements and correct technique at their [own] pace.”

Experience Niseko: What have been some of the most rewarding aspects of your career?

Tareesa Straatmans riding in Niseko.

It’s other things I really love about Japan—the culture, in particular, and the people. That element to it is just amazing.

Tareesa: “One of the pleasures of being in the industry as long as I have is that I’ve been able to see some really talented riders come through. One, I remember teaching how to turn in Whistler. She’s now got to the point where she’s on the Roxy team and travels internationally to compete.

So she’s really pushed herself and now rides just as hard, if not harder, than most of the men I know. So that’s been really rewarding.

“There’s another little girl—she’s only 12, and she’s on the Burton team now. I’ve seen her progress from this little grommy 6 year-old who’s hitting the jumps in the park, and now she’s taking out every junior comp that there is in Australia. She’s amazing.”

Experience Niseko: And your advice for anyone coming to Niseko?

Tareesa: “I would definitely say that for me, taking lessons was a massive part of growing and progressing as a rider. Beginning as an instructor, we used to have lessons and training three times a week for the first five or six years of our career. And I’m still training and trying to improve myself. That would be my advice—to get lessons and keep pushing yourself, because there’s always something to learn.”

M

argie has been a dedicated skier for more than thirty years, getting her start in the relatively unknown sport of grass skiing, where she trained with former Australian Olympian Steven Lee. She balances her life on the snow with a career in academia and is a Doctor of Education and a lecturer at the University of Technology Sydney.

Margie’s fascinating background also includes Australian representation in dragon boat racing, surf life saving and athletics, plus a black belt in martial arts (Shotokan and Kenkokan). We suggest you ask her about it on the gondola!

Experience Niseko: Tell us about your start in the sport. We hear your first experiences on skis were quite different from what you might expect in Niseko.

Margie: “I’ve been skiing for over thirty-odd years. I started grass skiing— racing—with Steven Lee, the downhill Olympian. I know Steven Lee quite well.

That was at the age of probably twenty, or a little bit older. From there I went onto snow about five or six years later. And I’ve been on snow ever since.”

Experience Niseko: And your start as an instructor? How did that come about?

Margie: “I went and took a private advanced workshop with a ski instructor

MARGIE MESSINBIRD DEMARCO Ski Instructor

■ NATIONALITY: Australian ■ SEASONS IN NISEKO: 1 ■ TOTAL WINTER SEASONS: 10 at Perisher [Australia] and the instructor advised me that with my ability that I should try out for ski school. So I joined APSI, tried out for the ski school and I got in.

“I would have started earlier in my life if I’d had the knowledge about becoming a ski instructor. And if it wasn’t for grass skiing in Queensland that got me going.”

EXPERIENCE NISEKO

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Experience Niseko: Do you think your background in education has helped you as an instructor?

Margie: “Yes, without a doubt.

My background in education is in health and physical education and exercise science, so it’s dealing with biomechanics, exercise, sports—all sports activities.”

Experience Niseko: What are your thoughts on the newly-introduced Women’s Workshop? How do you think it benefits women looking to get involved or progress in snowsports?

Margie: “There are unlimited benefits. A lot of my clients are married and—don’t get me wrong when I say this—when they’re in a lesson they’re not being harassed by their partners.

“And I’m very technical when I’m teaching, and I teach to get the results the women want. I did workshops this season with private women’s groups and I had them for two weeks on end or one week. Full-on, every day. And they just advanced and excelled so beautifully.

They were just so happy.

“When I [first] read that about the Women’s Workshops, I thought—‘that is my element, that’s my goal for the season’.”

M

aja has spent years teaching skiing in Slovenia, Italy, Switzerland and Australia, but was immediately attracted to Japan during her first season in 2014/15. She loves sharing her passion for the snow with others and encourages visitors to Niseko to get out and explore the area as much as possible.

Experience Niseko: Tell us about why you became an instructor?

Maja: “I like sharing my passion with others and showing them interesting ways to learn to ski. I often teach the same ways I learned, which I think is the easiest way. And I love making clients happy too!”

Experience Niseko: What in particular do you enjoy about living and teaching in Niseko, and what made you return?

Maja: “First of all, the amount of snow we had. And I’d like to ski more—I feel as though I didn’t ski enough last season.

“Then also because Japan is pretty relaxing and a very nice country to live in. I think the people are lovely and very friendly and the environment is really nice.”

36 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

MAJA BOTIC Ski Instructor

■ NATIONALITY: Slovenian ■ SEASONS IN NISEKO: 2 ■ TOTAL WINTER SEASONS: 10

Experience Niseko: And you see yourself in Niseko for a while?

Maja: “Yes, I see myself here, I love Japan. I wouldn’t mind actually staying for summer as well.”

Experience Niseko: Do you have any special plans for this season? What would you recommend to others in Niseko?

Maja: “Last year I went to three resorts outside Niseko and I’d really like to explore more. And I’d love to hike Mt. Yotei and do some more touring.

“Onsens (Japanese natural hot springs) are great for everyone who doesn’t know what they are. And the food in Niseko is fantastic. There’s all kinds from all over the village, from sushi to everything else.”

Experience Niseko: What are your thoughts on the introduction of the Women’s Workshop this season?

Maja: “I think it’s really great. As a woman, I look at some of the ladies who are a bit smaller—some of the Japanese or Chinese ladies, for example. When they’re paired with a large male coach, they can be a little shy—as I am [in the same scenario]. I think being with a female instructor might help them.

“In Perisher, Australia, we had staff training sessions run by and designed specifically for female instructors. It’s more relaxing, less stressful. I like it for myself and I think other ladies are going to like it too. ” Experience Niseko: Have you enjoyed being part of the GoSnow crew?

Maja: “I liked them all [the staff]. It has been my favourite group of people I’ve worked with for a long time now!”

■ To find out more about the Gondola Snowsports Women’s Workshop, visit www.gondolasnowsports.com or email lessons@gondolasnowsports.com.

䐀椀渀攀 䤀渀 ⴀ 吀愀欀攀伀甀琀 ⴀ 䐀攀氀椀瘀攀爀礀

☀ 倀䤀娀娀䄀倀䄀匀吀䄀䜀刀䤀䰀䰀䈀䄀刀

䤀娀 倀 刀 䄀 䰀䈀 䰀 䤀 刀 娀䄀 䜀 娀 䄀 䤀 吀 倀 倀䄀匀 䤀䰀䰀䈀䄀刀 倀䄀 䄀 娀 䤀娀 倀 䜀刀 娀䄀 刀 䄀 娀 䤀 䄀 吀 倀 䈀 匀 䄀刀 倀䄀 䤀䰀䰀 吀䄀 䈀 䄀 刀 匀 䰀 娀 䄀 䜀 䰀 䤀 娀 倀 䄀 䤀 匀吀 娀䄀 䜀刀 刀倀 娀 䄀 䄀 䄀 䤀 倀 吀 䈀 倀 匀 䄀 䰀 刀 䄀䜀 䄀 娀 䰀 䤀 吀 䄀 倀 娀 匀 䤀 䈀 刀 䄀 䰀 䄀 倀 䜀 䤀䰀 䄀 䤀娀娀 䄀倀 䄀刀 吀 刀 倀 娀 䈀 匀 䜀 刀 䰀 娀 䄀 䤀䰀䰀 䤀 䄀 䰀 䄀 倀 刀 䤀 吀 倀 䈀 䄀 刀 匀 刀 䜀 䰀 娀 䄀 䜀 䄀 䤀䰀 娀 倀䄀 䄀匀吀䄀 䰀䰀䈀䄀刀倀䤀 䄀匀吀䄀䜀刀 刀倀䤀娀娀䄀 䄀䜀刀䤀䰀䰀䈀 娀娀䄀倀䄀匀吀 䤀䰀䰀䈀䄀 倀 刀 匀吀 倀䤀 䈀䄀 刀䤀 䄀 䜀 䰀 刀 䄀 䜀 娀 䰀 倀 䄀 䄀 䤀 䄀 娀 吀 䤀 倀 䄀 䈀 吀 刀 匀 䰀 刀 倀 娀 䜀 䄀 䰀 刀 䄀 娀 䤀 䤀 倀 䄀 䄀 䈀 刀 吀 倀 䄀 䰀 䈀 刀䤀䰀䰀 䤀娀娀䄀倀䄀匀 刀䤀䰀䰀䈀䄀刀 倀䄀匀吀䄀䜀 䈀䄀刀倀䤀娀娀 匀吀䄀䜀刀䤀䰀 倀䤀娀娀 倀 䜀 娀䄀 刀 䄀 䄀刀 倀䄀 娀 䤀䰀䰀 䤀 吀 䄀 䈀 䄀 刀 匀 倀 䈀 䰀 娀 䜀 䰀 刀 䰀 䄀 䤀 㐀瀀洀廿㄀㄀瀀洀 娀 倀䄀 倀 䄀 䤀 䄀 刀 䄀 吀 倀 䄀 䈀 匀 娀 䜀 䰀 刀 娀 娀 䄀 䰀 䄀 娀 䤀 吀䄀 倀䤀 匀 刀 䄀 ⠀ ㄀㌀㘀⤀ 㔀㔀 㔀㔀㔀㌀ 吀 䄀 倀 䄀刀倀䤀 䄀匀吀䄀䜀刀 刀倀䤀娀娀䄀倀 䄀䜀刀䤀䰀䰀䈀 娀圀圀圀⸀一䤀匀䔀䬀伀倀䤀娀娀䄀⸀䨀倀 匀 䈀 䄀 䰀 䄀 娀 䰀 倀 䤀 刀 倀䤀 娀37䄀 䈀䄀 匀吀 䄀倀 䜀 刀 䰀 娀 䄀 娀 䤀 䄀 䰀 䄀 倀 娀 䤀 吀 倀 䤀 䈀 䄀 倀 娀 䄀匀 䄀刀 䜀刀 䄀䜀 䰀䰀 椀渀 眀椀渀琀攀爀 猀攀愀猀漀渀 漀瀀攀渀 攀瘀攀爀礀搀愀礀

䘀漀爀 洀漀爀攀 椀渀昀漀爀洀愀琀椀漀渀Ⰰ 洀攀渀甀猀 愀渀搀 甀猀攀昀甀氀 氀椀渀欀猀Ⰰ 瀀氀攀愀猀攀 瘀椀猀椀琀 漀甀爀 眀攀戀猀椀琀攀 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

OF NISEKO 10YEARS POWDER WITH GLEN CLAYDON

Many would say Glen Claydon has the best job in the world or, perhaps, the best office.

The 2015/16 season marks his 10th in Niseko as a professional photographer, and over the course of his career in Japan heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s teamed up with countless visitors to the snowy regionâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; virtually all with the same plan. To search for, find and capture the best powder conditions on the planet.

Glen has the relaxed nature of someone who spends a good chunk of his life in the mountains, but beneath the calm persona is a passion for his craft and an infectious love for the place he now calls home.

38 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

He first visited Niseko in 2002, and initially began photographing the region as an amateur. His trips became more frequent over the next few years as he grew increasingly fascinated and attached to the region. In early 2005, a friend in the village began asking to use his images commercially, marking the birth of his career in professional photography and prompting a full-time move to Niseko the following year.

Over the next seven pages, Glen shares some of the magical moments from his career so far.

Matt “Fatty” Hill – Moiwa soul turn December 25, 2005 The first snowboarding shot I was really pleased with. The arc of turn, the laid back surf style...capturing the freeride floating magic we all experience when flying down a steep and deep line through perfect powder.

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Josh Clark – Grand Hirafu, December 28, 2006 One of those days when the sun makes an appearance after weeks of relentless snowfall, and the resort is transformed into one massive playground. Josh was the first rider I had the chance to shoot who could seemingly do whatever he wanted on a board—spin frontside or backside, ride switch or any grab. In this shot he was spinning a corked 360.

Monzen – Hanazono, February 13, 2007 A perfect cold mid-February day with Monzen gliding through the waist deep powder off “The Peak” down towards Hanazono. Timeless.

40 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Levi – ‘Back Bowl’ into Annupuri Resort, January 5, 2008 This shot happened by pure chance.

Levi had a rare day off from instructing with NISS and I bumped into him on the hike up the peak and we decided to do a couple of shots. After all these years this is still probably one of my best shots. The tracks in the distance are from Moiwa.

Nick – Mt. Yotei, March 4, 2008 My first ever hike to the summit of Mt. Yotei. Hiking with two skiers— Nick and Miles, I huffed and puffed my way up, stopping too often to take photos. By the time I made it to the top my hiking buddies were frozen after waiting more than an hour. The ride down was magic and I still think about that sunset descent. Nick skied like a champion and I really hope to see him over here again soon.

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FAR LEFT

Annupuri Mountain range, February 21, 2010 Fresh tracks peeling off the top of Mt. Chisenupuri, with Mt. Mekkunai in the distance.

LEFT

Tim – Niseko backcountry, February 7, 2009 This shot was taken deep in the Niseko backcountry after driving hours with Niseko Snowcat Adventures on a mission of exploration and true adventure. We saw this huge mushroom stack and Tim was keen to give it a go. He totally nailed it for the shot then popped left onto the side mushroom.

Christie – Niseko Hirafu, January 18, 2011 Niseko is famous for tree skiing and Christie absolutely rips through the trees and always looks good. I don’t get the chance to shoot with women enough and I hope that changes this season.

42 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Jesse – Mt. Yotei, January 19, 2012 When everything comes together on Mt. Yotei. This was an exceptional day with amazing views, perfect snow and no wind. Jesse’s powder trail just hung in the air for 10 seconds after he blew by for this shot.

ABOVE

Nick â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Niseko backcountry, February 26, 2013 Nick took me to this random spot in the middle of nowhere the day after he had been shooting here with the Japan Journals crew.

Trying something a bit different, I climbed up a tree and used a fish eye lens and shot Nick at the apex of his jump. Good times.

RIGHT

Higashiyama Cherry Trees, January 11, 2014 This is one of the most popular photo spots in the Niseko area.

The two cherry trees draw photographers throughout the seasons. Shooting in winter can be a challenge especially in January when it really dumps.

This shot for me captures the feeling of being surrounded by snowâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;I love the way the snow is accumulating delicately even on the smallest branches.

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44 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Seth – Shiribetsu-dake, March 9, 2014 ABOVE: Shooting with Warren Miller Entertainment from the Hokkaido Backcountry Helicopter was a career highlight. Shooting two-time US Olympic gold medalist Seth Westcott rip five top-to-bottom runs in perfect snow was incredible. He didn’t do any amazing jumps or tricks just full-throttle speed, style and control.

LEFT: Working with Warren Miller’s veteran

cameraman was an eye opener. While harnessed into the helicopter with the door off and feet dangling over the edge, Chris directed the pilot with the headphones and Seth with a two-way radio, making shots like this overhead one possible.

RIGHT

Ned – Moiwa, February 10, 2015 On what must have been the day of the season for me, an unexpected super dump produced waist to chest deep light fluffy snow. I just love Ned’s expression as he gasped for air coming out of a massive overhead face shot.

Glen Claydon Photography is available for action and portrait shoots on and off the mountain as well as personalised photographic tours of the region. Visit glenclaydon.com for details.

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Summertime: Niseko’s Best Kept Secret Whether you’re an athlete, an adventurer, a gourmet traveller, or simply trying to keep your kids happy for the duration of your holiday, the Niseko summer has something for everyone. We’ve put together a list of our favourite summer activities, all of which you can try in and around Niseko.

1

Whitewater Rafting

Niseko’s Shiribetsu River is the destination for some of the best whitewater rafting in Asia. A melting snowpack creates an exhilarating spring rafting experience, which becomes a little more mellow and relaxed during the summer. Expect stunning alpine scenery, gorgeous seasonal colours and crystal clear water. ■ Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC), 0136-23-2093, nacadventures.jp 2

Hiking and Walks

Niseko is surrounded by mountains and natural hiking terrain, with a variety of trails to suit all tastes and abilities. Most of the mountains around Niseko and throughout Japan have set courses and maps. Some of the courses are short, lasting about an hour while others can be broken into several days. A must for hiking enthusiasts is the hike up the majestic Mount Yotei.

It has several trailheads culminating in a path around the caldera at the top.

The unforgettable views from the peak shouldn’t be missed.

46 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

3

Kayaking

There are several beautiful spots around Niseko to enjoy kayaking, including the spectacular Shiribetsu River or the Oshoro Bay of Otaru. Kayaking is a fantastic family activity and an even better way to take in some of the Hokkaido’s natural scenery.

For an experience like no other, try sea kayaking in the nearby Shaoktan Peninsula, famous for the mesmerising colour of its water known as “Shakotan blue”. ■ Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC), 0136-23-2093, nacadventures.jp

4

Canyoning

If jumping off waterfalls, swimming through crystal clear mountain water and jetting down whitewater rapids sounds appealing, then canyoning is the activity for you. It’s a thrilling experience and you’ll get to see some of the best scenery Hokkaido has to offer. Tour operators run canyoning trips to a number of places near Niseko, including Sakazuki river, which is surrounded by oaks, maples and wild flowers. ■ Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC), 0136-23-2093, nacadventures.jp

experience niseko summer 8

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Road Cycling

Niseko has a very active local cycling community, and it’s not hard to see why. Quiet roads, mild summer temperatures and attractive country landscapes make for a perfect road cycling environment.

Niseko also has a busy cycling events calendar, the pinnacle of which is The Niseko Classic, held in July each year. ■ Rhythm Cycles, 0136-23-0164, nisekocycles.com 6

Golf

Avid golfers looking for a round at one of Asia’s most scenic and challenging courses should look no further than the Niseko Village Golf Course, which was named Japan’s Best Golf Course at the World Golf Awards in 2014. The Arnold Palmer-designed Niseko Golf Course and the Niseko Tokyu Golf Course are similarly worldclass, challenging courses set to a breathtaking Mt. Yotei backdrop.

■ Niseko Village Golf Course & Niseko Golf Course, 0136-44-2211, niseko-village.com, Niseko Tokyu Golf Course, 0136-23-0111, nisekotokyu.co.jp 7

Park Golf

Park golf is an easier, shorter, more relaxed version of the more traditional game. One club is sufficient for the entire round, and the ball and holes are much larger. Park golf is a popular activity for families and friends during the Niseko summer, and there are a number of courses in the area. ■ Niseko Sports Park Park Golf Course, 0136-44-2034 (Japanese only) 8

Barbecuing

Barbecues are an iconic Niseko pastime, and the smell of freshly charred meat and vegetables is never far away during summer.

In a place known for its fresh, seasonal produce, tasty beer and favourable climate, there’s no better way to spend a Niseko summer day.

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Inflatable Parks

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Soba Noodle Making

Hokkaido is an agricultural hotspot and attracts foodies from all over the world, who visit for the fresh farm produce, abundant seafood and fascinating food history and culture. Add to the culinary experience by signing up for a soba noodle-making class, run by the Niseko Outdoor Center (NOC). Using Niseko’s pristine water, you’ll learn to make soba noodles by hand under the expert guidance of the NOC team. Noodles will never taste as good!

■ Niseko Outdoor Center (NOC), 0136-44-1133, noc-hokkaido.jp 11

Inflatable parks are just as fun as they sound! Filled with giant obstacles, mazes and slides, they’re the ultimate playground and will have your kids smiling for days. Try the PURE Adventure Park at Niseko Village or the Hanafuwu Inflatable Park in Niseko Hanazono. ■ PURE Adventure Park, 0136-44-2211, niseko-village. com, Hanafuwu Inflatable Park, 0136-22-3884, hanazononiseko.com

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Ice Cream Making

There’s nothing better than a cold, refreshing ice cream on a hot summer day, especially when it’s made using freshly squeezed milk and top quality Hokkaido ingredients. Sign up for an ice cream making workshop in Niseko with Saison Club, where you’ll be rewarded sweetly for your efforts! ■ Saison Club, 0136-44-3380, saisonclub.com

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5NIGHT SKIING

REASONS YOU NEED TO TRY NISEKO’S

NIGHT SKIING is one of the truly unforgettable Niseko experiences and an excellent way to extend your time skiing the world’s best powder.

Check the Niseko United website (niseko.ne.jp) to confirm that lifts are open after dark and be sure to grab an extra layer! Here are our five reasons you have to try it: 1

It’s the best in the world!

We think so, anyway! Niseko reportedly has the largest lit night skiing area in Japan, with floodlights covering most of the mountain and four major lifts in operation.

The floodlights are so strong that the light penetrates through the trees, giving more advanced skiers and boarders plenty of options to explore after dark.

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Great visibility

Hard to imagine that the visibility would be better at night than during the day, but it’s often the case. When Niseko’s powerful floodlights shine down on the slopes, they not only cut through the fog but also cast tiny shadows on all the bumps, divots and tracks that you might miss on a grey afternoon. Niseko night skiing is a great time to practice your skills in the moguls. If you don’t believe us, try for yourself!

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Fit more into your day

Do you ever get the sense that there aren’t enough hours in the day to enjoy everything that Niseko has to offer? Night skiing is your answer. Why not ski the morning powder, try one of Niseko’s other snow activities after lunch, then hit the slopes in the evening!

Feeling a little tired after the morning session? Take a long lunch, head for an

onsen or massage in the afternoon, then come back for night skiing feeling refreshed and ready to tear apart the mountain!

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Have the slopes to yourself

Night skiing in Niseko is one of the resort’s best kept secrets, which means you’ll have the slopes virtually all to yourself if you head out once the sun’s gone down. Enjoy the peacefulness of the mountain as you wind your way down a run under moonlit skies.

It’s a breathtaking experience.

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Head straight into town when you’re done

Reward yourself after a full day on the mountain and head straight to one of Niseko’s many bars or restaurants, in true après ski style! You’ll have earned the extra beer or big bowl of ramen.

Skiing should not be a spectator sport.

Products to manage and prevent injuries

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let minor injuries and soreness keep you off the slopes.

Niseko Physio are experts at diagnosing and treating a wide range of snow sports injuries. Our therapists are Australian-trained, highly skilled and experienced.

Niseko Physio is the only sports injury centre in Hirafu village, conveniently located opposite the Seicomart.

Appointments preferred but not essential. Treatments Claimable on Travel Insurance.

Injury Prevention Guaranteed!*

*If you sustain a complete rupture of your ACL while wearing this CX2K brace, we will refund the cost of the brace and give you ÂĽ100,000 towards your operation.

Purchases made with a consultation may be travel insurance claimable.

Tel: 0136-22-0399 Australia House B1, Yamada 170-5, Kutchan-cho www.nisekophysio.com

l!! cia 2pm! e Sp ore ird es bef B rly ssag Ea nt ma ou Disc

We will beat ANY massage price in the village!

FREE gift voucher for another massage if you are not totally happy with your massage.

Tel: 0136-22-0399 Australia House B1, Yamada 170-5, Kutchan-cho www.nisekomassage.com

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Kanpai!

In English, “sake” refers to the alcoholic fermented rice beverage from Japan that you’ve probably had at your local Japanese restaurant or favourite sushi bar. But ask for “sake” in Japan and you may be met with a look of confusion.

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A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO JAPANESE SAKE

Why? Because in Japan, “sake” refers to alcoholic beverages in general.

This includes wine, beer, liquor, and the actual rice wine we call “sake”.

In Japanese, the word used to refer to Japanese “sake” is nihonshu which translates to “Japanese alcohol”. Ask for this at an izakaya and you will almost always be greeted with a smile.

With only two ingredients and various regions across Japan perfecting their own types and variations, selecting the right one to try can be a bit overwhelming. Here are some key concepts and terms to help you get started on enjoying this delicious beverage.

The ingredients for a good sake are simple—pure water

and rice. But with simple ingredients, the quality of each plays a huge role in the quality and taste. One of the first steps in making sake is the polishing of the rice. Prior to the actual sake making process the rice kernel has to be “polished” or milled to remove the outer layer of each grain, exposing its starchy core. For example, to get from brown rice to white rice you need to polish the rice to approximately 90% (polishing off 10%). Good sake is polished to 50–70% which means 30–50% of the kernel has been polished off. So if you take a look at the label and read that sake has been polished to 70%, it simply means that

30% of the original rice kernel has been polished away, leaving 70% of its original size. Opposite is a convenient table of sake classification terms for you to use as a reference. *Note: The more rice has been polished means the classification level is higher. However, it does not mean the

Junmai (純米)

CHARACTERISTICS

SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS

Non-additive sake.

Tends to have a rich full body with an intense, slightly acidic flavour.

Particularly nice when served warm or at room temperature.

Contains a small amount of distilled brewers alcohol used to smooth out flavour and aroma.

Light and easy to drink.

Can be enjoyed either warm or chilled.

May contain a small amount of distilled brewers alcohol used to smooth out flavour and aroma but may also be found without additives as Junmai Ginjo.

Easy to drink, light, fruity and complex flavour that is usually quite fragrant.

Particularly nice when served chilled.

May contain a small amount of distilled brewers alcohol used to smooth out flavour and aroma but may also be found without additives as Junmai Daiginjo.

Light, complex flavours and aromas.

Best served chilled.

Rice used has been polished to at least 70%.

Honjozo (本醸造) Rice used has been polished to at least 70%.

Ginjo (吟醸) Premium sake which uses rice that has been polished to at least 60%.

Daiginjo (大吟醸) Super premium sake regarded by many as the pinnacle of the brewers’ art. It requires precise methods using rice polished down to 50% or lower.

sake will be better. Ginjo and daiginjo sakes are generally considered higher end and are often more sought after by sake experts but as with wine, the cheaper local stuff is also loved by experts. Just as long as it is made from quality ingredients and by good brewers.

It’s always best to trust your own palate and preferences.

TYPE OF SAKE

All sakes are not created equal and in addition to many variations, the serving temperature also plays a role in how your sake may be enjoyed. Different temperatures will draw out specific characteristics, aromas, and flavours, which makes this a fun and interesting experiment for someone who is new to the world of sake or considers themselves an expert.

To warm your sake, pour it into a heatsafe receptacle (we recommend a sake carafe, called “Tokkuri” 徳利). Prepare a pot with hot or warm water and place

the carafe in the pot. Gradually bathe the carafe but do not let the water come to a boil. You may also heat up your sake in a microwave instead of hot water bath however some of the flavours and aromas may be lost.

Don’t be afraid to ask the shop or restaurant staff for their recommendations or visit The Niseko Supermarket and Deli which carries a variety of local and imported sakes. Still unsure? Ask their knowledgeable staff or stop by during one of their sake tastings. Kanpai!

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experience niseko

Niseko Locals

Meet some of the people who are lucky enough to call Niseko home!

Bevan Colless Founder and Owner, Niseko Physio and Massage Hometown: Sydney, Australia Years in Niseko: My first trip as a tourist was 1994. This season will be the ten year anniversary of Niseko Physio.

Favourite Niseko experience: Snowshoeing on Hangetsu ko (Half Moon Lake). The whole family can do it together, it’s so peaceful and serene. We often swim in the lake in summer too.

Local tip: Get spikes for your shoes! We see a lot of injuries from people slipping in the street.

What do you love most about Niseko? It’s rural Japan but international, sophisticated and exciting.

Where would you likely be found… …on a Friday after work: Torimatsu in Kutchan. …on a stormy Niseko powder day: If the lifts are running and gates open, somewhere between Annupuri and Moiwa. If they aren’t, then at Rusutsu.

The lifts rarely close there. …on a beautiful summer day in July: On my road bike enjoying the plentiful smooth, quiet roads in the area.

Ross Findlay CEO, Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC) Hometown: Sydney, Australia Years in Niseko: 25 Favourite Niseko activity: Skiing powder all day (before all the Australians came).

Best local dish: Potato mochi.

Where would you likely be found… …on a Friday after work: At home looking at the surf report for Saturday. …on a stormy Niseko powder day: Hitching a ride on the NAC cat. …on a beautiful summer day in July: On the river, rafting.

Tatsumi Kono Maintenance Supervisor, HTM Niseko Hometown: Tokyo, Japan Years in Niseko: 11 Favourite Niseko activity: Snowboarding, soccer and BBQs. Local tip: Try hiking Mt. Yotei!

What do you love most about Niseko?

The nature and turning of seasons.

Where would you likely be found… …after work: In summer, playing soccer. …on a stormy Niseko powder day: Cleaning out the snow around my house. …on a beautiful summer day in July: Having a BBQ or surfing in the Pacific Ocean.

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Shaun and Jacinta Sonja Designers, Sanctuary Niseko Hometown: Singapore Years in Niseko: 2.5 Favourite Niseko experience: Being in close proximity with nature.

Local tip: For those who are little squeamish about public onsens, there are private family onsen rooms at Yuusen Kaku Onsen (behind Konbu JR Station), Kiran no Yu (at Niskeo Town) and Akahane Onsen (favourite mud onsen at Goshiki) available for just an additional 1,000JPY.

What do you love most about Niseko? The fresh spring water, fresh local produce and the holistic way of living!

Where would you likely be found… …on a Friday after work: Trying a new recipe at home. …on a stormy Niseko powder day: At work?! …on a beautiful summer day in July: Rolling in the park with our dogs.

Masaya Yamamoto Ski Patrol, Tokyu Resort Service Hometown: Shiga, Japan Years in Niseko: 13 Favourite Niseko experience: Camping in the summer. Skiing and telemarking in the winter.

Local tip: Try Japanese food and visit an onsen.

What do you love most about Niseko?

Being able to experience four distinct seasons.

Where would you likely be found… …on a Friday after work: Staying at home with family. …on a stormy Niseko powder day: At Hirafu ski resort or one of the nearby mountains. …on a beautiful summer day in July: At a campsite or festival ground.

Ryan McKay Director, Studiomochi Hometown: Sydney, Australia Years in Niseko: 2.5 Favourite Niseko experience: Cycling in the mountains.

Local tip: Being the first customer at Guzu Guzu when everything is fresh and piping hot. The smell is sublime.

What do you love most about Niseko? A combination of fresh food, clean air, safety and cycling.

Where would you likely be found… …on a Friday after work: At home with the family. …on a stormy Niseko powder day: Fatbiking secret trails. …on a beautiful summer day in July: BBQ with the kids.

Tomomi Nishimura Director, Rhythm Snowsports Hometown: Kochi, Japan Years in Niseko: 10 Favourite Niseko experience: Snowboarding, downhill MTB and eating the local food.

Local tip: Onsen power is magical, it helps relax your tight muscles after skiing.

What do you love most about Niseko?

The diversity of people from around the world (and food).

Where would you likely be found… …on a Friday after work: Sakaba Restaurant in Kutchan. …on a stormy Niseko powder day: Onsen Yukokorotei. …on a beautiful summer day in July: Mountain biking at Rusutsu’s downhill MTB course.

Mr Slicey Maître d’ – It’s slice to meet you, Lava Lounge Pizza Hometown: Niseko, Japan Years in Niseko: 2 Favourite Niseko experience: It costs a bit of dough, but definitely heli-skiing.

Local tip: Say “hello” to fellow skiers on the lifts and Gondola. Don’t be a weirdough.

What do you love most about Niseko?

It may sound cheesy but the beautiful nature stole a pizza my heart.

Favourite Niseko anecdote: Finding an elderly couple struggling with large suitcases in the middle of nowhere late at night. They had gotten off the train at Hirafu Station instead of Kutchan. I gave them a ride back to the resort. It was the yeast I could do.

Where would you likely be found… …on a Friday after work: I’m bit of a fungi so I like to go out for a drink. …on a stormy Niseko powder day: Working on my powder technique. There’s always mushroom for improvement. …on a beautiful summer day in July: Walking my PUPeroni.

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resort map

Resort Map

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