Experience Niseko Vol 8

experienceniseko.com

Vol.8 Winter 2019/20

Destination Next WOONSEN LOVES NISEKO THE THAI BEAUTY IS BACK

Through the Eyes of a Pro

Tinge O' Ginger

Stomp It

You Say Potato

Hokkaido's first craft ginger beer

USA pro skier Essex Prescott

Discover Niseko’s biggest jumps

+ EVENTS, NEWS, GEAR & MORE

A local favourite re-imagined

The New Level of Alpine Luxury Ski-in ski-out luxury design and service in an unbeatable, breathtaking location–this is Skye Niseko.

Relax in nature with Skye Niseko’s own day spa, onsen hot spring and Hokkaido izakaya, Kumo Restaurant.

Time to Enjoy.

enjoy@skyeniseko.com +81 (0) 136 55 5123 www.skyeniseko.com

Coffee Culture 38

You Say Potato 44

Contents

Winter 2019/20

10 Niseko News

38 Coffee Culture

12 Event Guide

44 You Say Potato

A round up of this winter’s big local news.

A fun-packed schedule of events.

14 Destination Next

Popular Thai actress Woonsen returns to Niseko.

18 Street Eats

Born from a mountain-centric lifestyle, Niseko’s food truck scene is on the rise.

22 Tinge O' Ginger

Introducing Hokkaido’s first craft ginger beer.

26 Totally Tofu

Tofu has more recently become a menu highlight in its own right for once-skeptical meat-eaters.

30 Say Chee-zu!

One of the best ways to enjoy Hokkaido's famous dairy is in the humble cheesecake.

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Winter 2019/20

We interview four founders of the Niseko coffee scene.

Niseko celebrates potatoes for one simple reason—our local farmers grow some of the world’s best.

48 Powder Pro

An interview with pro skier Essex Prescott during his recent visit to Niseko.

52 Going Beyond

A beginner’s guide to Niseko’s lift-accessed backcountry.

62 American Dream

How Japan’s famous dream powder became reality, as told

by Nick Hill.

70 Stomp It

Discover Niseko’s biggest jumps.

74 On Patrol

The brave men and women who work tirelessly to make sure that Mt Niseko Annupuri is safe for all.

Powder Pro 48

Local Beats 90

76 Am I Fit to Ski?

90 Local Beats

78 Gear Up

92 Your Best Year Yet

Local expert, Bevan Colless shares his knowledge on how to get ready for the slopes.

YamaSport’s David and Nicola Tarr explain how to choose the right ski and snowboard equipment.

80 Fully Equipped

Our guide to some of the best gear available to buy in Niseko.

DJ Masaki ‘mfp’ Konagai discusses his Niseko Beats mixtape series.

A winter holiday in the powder capital of the world is certainly no excuse not to keep your new year’s resolution.

94 Off the Slopes with Kids Family-friendly fun in Niseko.

82 Warm Right Up, Ski Right Down

98 Winter Playground

84 The Art of Relaxation

102 Indoor Fun

Learn the importance of a good pre-ski warm up.

Become weightless, dissolve tension and heal your body, mind and spirit with this list of ways to pamper yourself in Niseko.

86 You Beauty

Revitalise your skin and show it some love with unique, locally-made and inspired skincare.

Tick off your Niseko bucket list with some of these winter activities.

Whether it be cooking Japanese cuisine or appreciating spectacular art in quiet galleries, there’s plenty to do off the snow in Niseko.

106 Resort Map 108 Trail Map experienceniseko.com

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Editor’s Note THEY SAY IT’S THE JOURNEY, not the destination, but I beg to differ when it comes to Niseko. Sure, Hokkaido certainly is breathtaking during the transit here—snow-covered mountains as far as the eye can see, all wrapped up in silver birch. And yes, Japan’s famed hospitality warmly welcomes with a respectful bow of the head. But it’s only once you’re here in Niseko that it hits—that it’s somewhere truly worth leaving home for.

More than a skier’s paradise with over 14 metres of powdery, Siberian-windswept snow falling each season, Niseko is a bento box of Japanese and international flair and flavour: culinary delights, traditional hot springs, high-energy activities, celebrated culture and people from all around the world here to enjoy it.

It’s become easier to make that journey here too, with more international flights now direct to Sapporo’s New Chitose International Airport.

This winter, Finnair launched their new Helsinki-Sapporo route, without any stops or extra check-ins in Tokyo, giving travellers easy access from the heart of Europe. Qantas has made it easier for Australians, with new Sydney-Sapporo flights underway this winter.

Growing interest from Thailand has seen the introduction of NokScoot’s new year-round route from Bangkok having kicked-off the past autumn.

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Winter 2019/20

In our fifth winter edition, we take a look with a world perspective, including an interview with American pro skier Essex Prescott, and Thai actress and this issue’s cover star, Woonsen, who loved Niseko so much she’s back again this season. We explore the eclectic food scene as we uncover the Kutchan potato in a whole new light—the ‘Kutchan 540’, and we chat with Owner & Executive Chef of An Dining, Shinichi Maeda, about his newest creation—Hokkaido’s first craft ginger beer. Not to mention the array of things to do, see and experience.

For even more inspiration head to experienceniseko.com for the latest news, restaurant guides, must-see events and more.

Join our growing community of Niseko fans by subscribing to our digital newsletter delivered straight to your inbox. And connect with us on Instagram and Facebook, and share your love of Niseko by tagging #experienceniseko.

A great destination is somewhere people want to visit, and then tell their friends about.

It’s somewhere people want to live, work and play. If history is anything to go on, then Niseko is calling.

Enjoy the issue!

SOFIE LAHTINEN

EXPERIENCE NISEKO Vol. 8, Winter 2019/20 www.experienceniseko.com Published by HTM KK, 91-1 Aza Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081, Japan Advertising Enquiries: contact@experienceniseko.com FOLLOW US

experienceniseko

Cover image: Woonsen photographed by local Thai-expat Pimsiri Kanjanakaroon.

MOUNTAIN RENTAL GEAR

Sapporo

Skye Niseko Village Shuttle Bus Route

16

Hirafu Gondola/

4 Mountain Center Ki Niseko/ An Dining Welcome Center (Hirafu Bus Station)

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Grand Hirafu Ski Resort

With a wide range of premium and standard equipment, a team of experts to make sure you are fitted out perfectly with the right equipment, all at a competitive price, look no further than Niseko Town YamaSport for your winter rental needs.

Niseko Landmark View Yama Shizen West

HI R A F U Seicomart

Find us at the Niseko Landmark View and at Yama Shizen West +81 (0) 136 55 6725 www.yamasportniseko.com

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Winter 2019/20

DO SOMETHING COOL This winter, après-ski means relaxing in a steamy hot spring or hitting the Japanese izakayas. Finnair flies the short northern route from Europe to 19 destinations in Asia.

Our new route to Sapporo opens on 15 December.

Book your flights at finnair.com experienceniseko.com

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Niseko News As always, there’s plenty happening here in the powder capital of the world.

Here’s our round up of this winter’s big local news.

Brand-new Lawson

Mountain Center Expansion The Niseko Grand Hirafu Mountain Center alongside the Hirafu Gondola base is now bigger and better. The GoSnow ski school sales desk will now be located on the ground floor of the new building, along with public changing rooms, bathrooms and lockers. The upper floor will feature a new, bigger Niseko Grand Hirafu Rental Store.

Lawson at Midtown Niseko

Convenience store lovers staying in the east of Hirafu will welcome the opening of a new Lawson at Midtown Niseko. The new store is packed with many of the essential groceries and amenities you’ll need for your Niseko holiday, plus all the fun and quirky items for which Japanese ‘konbinis’ are famous.

Ki Niseko and Hakuchozan have defended their World Ski Awards titles in 2019! Ki Niseko has been named Japan’s Best Ski Boutique Hotel and Hakuchozan Japan's Best Ski Chalet. Both were recognised by industry experts and thousands of customers for their commitment to excellence in ski tourism. Skye Niseko was also recognised as being one of the Top 3 Best New Ski Hotels in the World and SkyExpress among the Top 3 Best Ski Transfer Operators in the World.

YamaSport Expands Having operated solely for Skye Niseko hotel guests in 2018/19, YamaSport expands its rental and retail offering this winter. Two dedicated stores are open at Niseko Landmark View and at Yama Shizen West, plus YamaSport will be servicing Ki Niseko hotel guests with a rental and ski valet service at the hotel. YamaSport have a huge range of premium rental gear and discounts apply for pre-booking. T-shirts, gloves, socks and balaclavas from new local brand LAB Niseko will also be available for purchase.

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Winter 2019/20

World Ski Award Winners

New Shops in Kutchan

World Ski Awards winner Ki Niseko

The ever-popular Sprout café in Kutchan are behind the development of the new ‘Camp & Go’ shop which sits alongside the café in Kutchan.

The new space will feature an organic food and plant shop, a trail running shop, a bicycle shop, a gallery and a kid’s play area. Check it out on Ekimae-dori (Station St) in Kutchan.

Niseko Physio Moves and Improves Niseko Physio are scaling up their operation with a relocation to a new space in the M Lodge. The facility contains a full gym with Skier’s Edge rehab trainer, free weights, leg press and even two virtual bike trainers connected to Zwift. Plus, there’s an 8-foot trampoline with Snowboard Addiction accessories, and a café selling coffees and toasted sandwiches.

New Rhythm Location Rhythm Japan has opened a huge new store near the Gondola base, opposite Ki Niseko. A large event space, lockers and a coffee shop will join all the usual offerings for which Rhythm has become famous for.

Knowledgeable customer service, a great product range and a specialist tuning workshop to ensure your gear is perfectly set to handle the deep Niseko conditions.

SuperPacks, Super Fun GoSnow are taking the hassle out of arranging ski or snowboard lessons, lift passes and rental equipment with the introduction of their brand new SuperPack, which includes lessons, standard rental equipment including skis/board, poles, boots and helmet, and a Grand Hirafu Lift Pass. The SuperPack is available for adults, teens and kids in GoSnow group lessons.

New Airline Routes Finnair have announced the opening of a new direct route from Helsinki to Sapporo, meaning it’s never been easier to fly direct to Hokkaido from the heart of Europe. From mid-December to mid-March, the service will operate with two flights per week, saving Niseko’s European guests the hassle of connecting through Tokyo or Osaka.

Australian airline Qantas has also launched direct seasonal flights for the Winter 2019/20 season to Sapporo. The new route from Sydney to Sapporo makes it much quicker and easier for Australians to visit our snowy winter paradise and runs 16th December to 28th March.

And NokScoot will commence operation of their Bangkok to Sapporo direct route four-times-weekly from October 27th. experienceniseko.com

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Event Guide A fun-packed schedule of events mean that this winter in Niseko may very well be the greatest yet.

NIGHT SKIING In winter wonderland Niseko, the activities don’t stop when the sun goes down. Make sure to enjoy night skiing this winter, as four chair lifts will be operating until 8.30 pm.

Venue: Niseko Grand Hirafu Dates: 11 December 2019 – 22 March 2020 Time: 4:30pm – 8:30pm Details: www.grand-hirafu.jp/winter/en/ gelande/schedule.html

SANTA CLAUS VISITS NISEKO Can’t wait for a white Christmas? Well you are in the right place, as Christmas cannot get any whiter than in Niseko. Make sure to look out for Santa Claus as he will be paying a visit to all four resorts.

Venue: All of Niseko Dates: 20 – 25 December 2019 Time: Varies by event

NEW YEAR IN NISEKO Niseko has something to offer everyone who is celebrating New Year. Along with the amazing nightlife, Annupuri runs free night skiing until 11:15pm. You can also be a part of torchlight skiing which takes place at Grand Hirafu right before midnight, followed by a firework display after twelve. And for morning people inspired by a Japanese custom, the Niseko Village Gondola runs a special New Year’s Day ride at 6am for the people who would like to enjoy the first sunrise of the year over Mt Yotei.

Venue: All of Niseko Dates: 31 December 2019 Time: Varies by event 12 |

Winter 2019/20

Santa Claus visits Skye Niseko

Night Skiing

Yukitopia Snow Festival

Otaru Snow Light Path

SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL

LAKE SHIKOTSU ICE FESTIVAL

The internationally renowned Sapporo Snow Festival is the biggest on the list of Japanese winter events. Since 1950, this event has been consistently attracting large number of visitors every year. The citizens of Sapporo as well as guests coming from all over the world visit this festival to see ice sculptures lining Odori Park.

Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival is one of the most famous winter festivals in Hokkaido. Since 1979, this festival has been attracting a huge number of visitors and now more than 260,000 tourists come from Japan and other countries each year.

During the event, many types of ice objects are showcased which shine in natural blue during daytime and at night feature colourful illuminations. The festival also boasts many other events like ice slides, a skating rink and fireworks.

Venue: Sapporo - Odori Park, Tsudome and Susukino Area Dates: 31 January – 11 February 2020 Time: All day Details: www.snowfes.com/english

OTARU SNOW LIGHT PATH

YUKITOPIA SNOW FESTIVAL

Get ready to be completely mesmerised by the view of Otaru Canal lit up by countless floating candles drifting down the river.

For the past 20 years, this event has been attracting 500,000 visitors annually. During this nine-day event, visitors can see ice sculptures, light displays and monuments.

In Niseko’s neighbouring town of Kutchan, the Yukitopia (Snowtopia) Festival has been a winter highlight since 1989. Visitors of all ages come together to enjoy winter activities at Asahigaoka Ski Hill. The event showcases Japanese taiko drumming along with a fun tubing hill and pond skim. Additionally, you will be able to enjoy varieties of delicious food during this event.

Venue: Otaru Dates: 8 – 16 February 2020 Time: 5:00pm – 9:00pm Details: www.japan-guide.com/e/e6706.html Sapporo Snow Festival

Venue: Lake Shikotsu Waterfront Dates: Late January – Mid February 2020

Venue: Asahigaoka Ski Hill, Kutchan Town Date: Mid-February 2020

Find out more online at www.experienceniseko.com/events experienceniseko.com

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Winter 2019/20

Destination Next WORDS: EVAN JOHNSON PHOTOS: PIMSIRI KANJANAKAROON

SUPERSTAR THAI ACTRESS and this issue’s cover star, Woonsen, visited Niseko last winter and, not surprisingly, had a fantastic time. So much so, she’s coming back this year! We caught up to chat about her stay.

Thanks for visiting Niseko! First things first, did you have a good time last winter?

I had such a great time. I have always loved Niseko, but this time I was lucky enough to stay at Skye Niseko which made everything so much easier.

Are you usually a ‘snow-person’?

Last winter was only my second time skiing so I am a newbie, but I’m hooked! I definitely want to do it more.

Had you ever seen so much snow before?

I’ve only ever seen snow in Japan and Australia. Japan wins!

What did you do while you were here?

Eat, ski, eat, ski, eat, ski, onsen, massage at Ryko Spa! That was my daily routine and I loved it!

Are you a skier or a snowboarder?

I’m a skier...

Did you eat anywhere special?

Ezo Seafoods and Sushi Shin were my favourite restaurants, but cocktails at Kumo Restaurant are amazing and definitely the best après ski vibes in town!

Did you buy anything great in Niseko’s shops?

Lots of delicious Hokkaido snacks for my friends and family back home.

experienceniseko.com

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Woonsen at Skye Niseko

You stayed at the brand-new Skye Niseko hotel—how was that? What were the highlights there?

I loved it, especially the onsen and breakfast every morning.

What are you most looking forward to for your upcoming visit to Niseko?

I’m most looking forward to coming back to Skye Niseko. I had such a good time last time and I will definitely book a penthouse this time as it comes with an amazing view and private onsen. I think I could spend a whole day there.

Are there any restaurants you missed last winter that you’re desperate to try this time?

Rakuichi Soba! I heard from my friends that it is really good, and it is very hard to get a table. We went last time but it was closed, so I definitely want to go this time.

What are the hot tips you would give to people visiting Niseko for the first time?

Ooh, tough question… come with an empty stomach! There are so many delicious places to eat.

You must book a ski instructor if you are a first timer. It is important to make sure to have a good base technique and you will improve faster than learning by yourself or with your friends. Instructors will also take you to the right ski lifts and courses that are beginner friendly.

Choose the right accommodation.

Everyone comes to Niseko for skiing or snowboarding, so being close to the slopes is much more convenient especially when it is your first time to Niseko.

And don’t put pressure too much on yourself. Personally, I prefer to ski some days and take a break for some days, just have a chill day at a spa or onsen or eat yummy food! There are lots of activities you can do in Niseko that aren’t skiing and snowboarding!

Follow Woonsen’s Niseko’s adventures via @vjwoonsen

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Street Eats

Born from a mountain-centric lifestyle, Niseko’s food truck scene is on the rise.

WORDS: VICTORIA YAP AND EVAN JOHNSON

STARTING WITH ONLY A HANDFUL of street vendors, the scene continues to grow with a wide gathering of food trucks selling internationally-inspired food from Japanese to Indian, pizzas to hotdogs, sandwiches to fish and chips and kebabs. All catering to the demand for comforting, quick meals for those going to and from the slopes.

It is no overstatement to say communities have been formed around these popular quick-eat spots in Niseko. Locals regularly gather around these vendors to recount the day, while travelers from across the world form friendships eating on the spot with delicious food and a cold Japanese beer in hand.

Whether you’re coming for waist deep powder or authentic Japanese culture, the food trucks are an unmissable stop in town.

Operating from morning ‘til night, refuel on the go and try some of Niseko’s best bites with the locals.

HokkaiDog owner Shin Mihara

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Winter 2019/20

HokkaiDog has been serving hungry mountain-goers in Niseko since 2012.

Photo: Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

HokkaiDog HokkaiDog is not only a food truck serving delicious and filling hotdogs, but a hub for like-minded skiers and snowboarders to talk all things snow, the mountain and riding.

Serving hungry mountain-goers since 2012, HokkaiDog started from a genuine love for powder and a desire to help hungry skiers with quick eats straight off the mountain.

Rocking a chilled vibe, HokkaiDog is easygoing; from the staff, the simple menu, to the exterior of the food truck itself.

Attracted by the snow culture, Shin Mihara joined the HokkaiDog team two winter seasons ago and has become the ‘face’ of the truck with his more-than-lively attitude every day.

“Our food truck is set up here right off the slopes so you can eat straight away,” he says.

HokkaiDog’s location next to Blo Blo Bar on Hirafu-Zaka is so close to the chairlifts that it’s perfect both as an après bite when your ski day is done, and for a simple, quick break off the mountain to fuel up and then ride again.

The HokkaiDog team live and breathe the mountain lifestyle. “When we’re not working, we go snowboarding together,” Shin says. “I like serving people from all over the world.

We have a chat about the conditions on the mountain, hearing about the runs.”

“When I’m working here, I have friends who come every day. Sometimes the same skiers who are on holiday come back every day because its quick and easy. I like making friends here and having new people join our conversations. It makes my working day interesting.”

And hotdogs are, in Shin’s mind, the perfect social food to eat while you chat.

“Hot dogs are quick and you can customise the toppings yourself,” Shin explains.

Super freestyle, just like Shin’s snowboarding technique, the toppings are customizable. Add or remove pickles, grab some extra avocado or try out their homemade chili sauce!

Reflecting the time owner Masa Nagashima spent in the US, the truck is completely covered in number plates from each state. This winter, visit HokkaiDog, sit outside the food truck on the converted snowboard bench and have a chat with Shin while munching on a chili dog.

Location: Hirafu-Zaka, next to Blo Blo Bar.

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Wolf Burgers is a familiar name in it’s native Singapore Photos: Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

Wolf Burgers While a relative newcomer to the Niseko food truck scene, Wolf Burgers is a familiar name in it’s native Singapore where for over three years they’ve been serving some of the city’s best burgers.

Founded by a group of friends who would regularly travel to Niseko to ski and snowboard, Wolf Burgers’ mission is to provide access to a quality dining experience at a reasonable price.

Meticulous in their selection of ingredients, their menu in Niseko features three burgers which are unavailable in their Singapore stores, including an unagi burger, a gyu-don burger and a pork katsu burger. All use ingredients from local farmers and all are equally mouth-watering.

For Wolf Burgers, Niseko represents a great opportunity to share their burgers with a wide audience of people from all over the world. “We want as many people in the world as possible to try Wolf Burgers,” co-founder Ho Song En explains.

“It’s obviously not possible to have a store in every country, so why not open a store in a place where people from nearly every country visit?”

“We had customers from Singapore, Hong Kong, China, the States, Europe, Canada, Australia and even from Iraq last year! The international spectrum of Niseko visitors just keeps getting wider.”

The name Wolf Burgers represents their philosophy. “A wolf is a social animal, part of a pack. We want our customers to feel like they are part of the Wolf Burgers pack. Great food is meant to be eaten with friends and family, so the Wolf name makes sense,” Song explains.

“The ‘Burgers’ bit… well that’s self-explanatory!”

Location: Hirafu Food Truck Area, near Seicomart 20 |

Winter 2019/20

Pi-kan Roll Pizza Pi-kan Roll Pizza started out as a food truck five years ago and has been so successful that its owner, Sapporo-born Niseko-local Aimi Sakuma has now built a physical store.

“A food truck was an easy way to start. I could take it anywhere and wasn’t tied to one place,” explains Aimi. “When I saw how popular it was, I decided to open a store too.”

A long-term fixture at the Hirafu food truck court, Pi-kan serves delicious pizzas with a convenient twist that makes them absolutely perfect for eating both on the go and in cold weather.

“We wanted to create a pizza that wouldn’t get cold and would be easy for people to eat as they walk along. A pizza that could be held in one hand while carrying skis in the other. We thought rolled up pizzas would be the best fit for Niseko,” Aimi explains.

In making the pizza more practical, they’ve made it more mouthwatering too. “With a normal pizza, the first thing you need to do is cut it. The first bite might be hot and delicious but, in snowy winter weather, it soon cools down,” Aimi says. “One of the best things about pizza is the cheese and how it stretches. In a roll pizza, the cheese remains hot and stringy.”

And the type of cheese that Aimi uses? “Sorry,” she says with a giggle, “It’s a secret!”

What isn’t a secret is that all ingredients used at Pi-Kan are local, including tomatoes, herbs and garlic from Aimi’s husbands farm plus Hokkaido meat and Hokkaido flour for the dough.

Pi-Kan also serves child size portions making it a great familyfriendly food truck option not to be missed this winter.

Location: Hirafu Food Truck Area, near Seicomart

experienceniseko.com

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Winter 2019/20

Tinge O’Ginger Brewed in Niseko, introducing Hokkaido’s first craft ginger beer.

WORDS: EVAN JOHNSON PHOTOS: NOLAN ISOZAKI YOSHIAKI

An Dining Bar Manager, Koki Nirei, experiments with cocktails containing the new ginger beer.

AS EXECUTIVE CHEF and Owner of one of Niseko’s undisputable gems, An Dining, Shinichi Maeda has developed a reputation for creating unique dishes and pioneering new Hokkaido flavours.

This winter, he and Bar Manager, Koki Nirei, turn their hand to something new altogether—Hokkaido’s first craft ginger beer.

Having spent 12 years living and working in Australia, where ginger beer was common, Shinichi returned to his native Hokkaido and was surprised to find that ginger beer was seemingly unavailable anywhere.

“I was 24 when I moved to Australia, and I got to a point where I thought, ‘This is normal, ginger beer is a thing, it must be everywhere’. Until I moved back to Japan five years ago and I was like… ‘Where’s ginger beer?’” he laughs.

He visited Kochi prefecture, famous for ginger farming and home to the best Japanese ginger, thinking surely someone is making ginger beer down there. “They make ginger ale. It’s different. No one is fermenting and brewing ginger beer.”

“There are three main reasons we are doing this. One, it’s one of my favourite things. Two, no one else is doing it. And three, it’s simply a good, healthy, quality product made from great Japanese produce,” Maeda adds.

In typical Shinichi-style, every effort has been made to ensure that the ingredients for the ginger beer are sourced as locally as possible. experienceniseko.com

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Clockwise from top: Shinichi Maeda; ginger sourced from nearby Kochi; Koki Nirei pours a glass.

“It’s simply a good, healthy, quality product made from great Japanese produce”

“It’s 100% natural and 100% Japanese. We use chilli from Niseko, molasses (sugar syrup) from Hokkaido beets and cherry tree yeast from native Hokkaido cherry trees. At the moment, we use ginger from Kochi and lemon from Hiroshima.”

Maeda explains, “I am working with two nearby farms to source our ginger more locally and we are growing some in our own farm, too. At the moment, to get the product ready quickly for our guests to enjoy this season, we are using ginger from elsewhere in Japan.”

Using local lemons is tricky as Niseko’s cold winter climate is not conducive to growing evergreen lemon trees. “We have been experimenting a little with using Hokkaido seaberries instead of lemon to make it completely local. However, seaberries add a lot of cost to the production and I want to be able to price the ginger beer at a level which everyone can try,” Maeda adds. “Maybe one day we will add a seaberry ginger beer to a premium range.”

The brewing and fermenting process takes place in the kitchen at An Dining.

“We start by taking the skin off the ginger, chopping them up, then mixing with lemon juice, chillis, lemon peel and molasses before bringing to the boil,” Maeda explains. “We then let it rest before adding yeast and allowing the product to ferment for five days. We then strain it through a sieve to filter and boil again. This stops the fermentation process and burns off the alcohol. Then we add more molasses, run it through a paper filter before adding CO2 gas to give it some sparkle.”

Plans are in place to expand the brewing operation with 24 |

Winter 2019/20

Shinichi dreaming about building his own brewery. “I’d like to build a factory and get a liquor production license so we can experiment with making alcoholic ginger beers and bottling our own for distribution. That’s three or four years off though as it’s a long process to obtain the license.”

For now, the product is available exclusively at An Dining, served draft, straight from the keg.

“We plan to include the ginger beer in our own signature cocktails. Dark and Stormys and Moscow Mules. We will also serve it as a welcome drink for customers, paired with a complimentary amuse-bouche. It’s the perfect type of refreshing drink to have before a big delicious meal.”

Maeda and the rest of the An Dining team get great satisfaction from serving guests products which they’ve literally been hands-on in making. “Everyone in the team has a greater appreciation for what we serve when they are involved in it more closely,” he explains. “Giving my team exposure to the farming process and an appreciation of how hard it is to grow one vegetable, to harvest one vegetable, wash it, look after it and so on, means simply, we put less to waste. That means a lot to me.”

So, what is next for Niseko’s trailblazer of tastes?

“I want to make a tonic water. Hokkaido gins are up and coming in popularity and are so good. Benizakura Gin, from Sapporo, launched last year. A Niseko gin is on its way. As is a Shakotan gin. There’s an opportunity to create a Hokkaido tonic which pairs with Hokkaido gin,” Maeda concludes.

Try the new ginger beer at An Dining at Ki Niseko.

experienceniseko.com

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Totally Tofu WORDS: SOFIE LAHTINEN PHOTOS: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

O

NCE THOUGHT of by most in the West as merely a protein substitute for vegetarians and vegans, tofu has more recently become a menu highlight in its own right for once-skeptical meat-eaters—and anyone who appreciates delicious food.

This new prime positioning of tofu on mainstream menus is without doubt, largely attributed to the rise in vegetarianism and veganism globally. And it isn’t just the fully-committed types either, think ‘plantbased’ dieters, ‘weekday vegetarians’ and so on. An overall increased consciousness of personal health and wellness, and how our footprint impacts the world, are factors.

Though the omission of meat from the daily diet goes back thousands of years, long before the green movers and shakers from the 1960s until now. Before the rest of the world discovered tofu, China was onto it, like many soy foods. Legend has it that it dates back over 2,000 years when a Chinese cook accidentally curdled soymilk when he added nigari seaweed to it.

Tofu then made its way over to Japan in the eighth century–known then as okabe. It caught on, arriving in Southeast Asia thereafter and the spread coinciding somewhat with that of Buddhism. After 26 |

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Try 'Kumo Fried Tofu' on the winter menu.

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all, tofu is an important protein source for the vegetarian diet of East Asian Buddhism. Whether you follow a faith or not, it’s fair to say that tofu is becoming a holy grail for foodies around the world.

When it comes to tofu in Japan, it’s a part of the food culture. Executive Chef at Kumo Restaurant, Richard Robbins, says it’s a staple in almost every meal, with it being common in breakfasts as well as dinners, like at izakayas.

“I think because it has quite a neutral flavour, its easy to complement a range of other dishes,” Robbins explains.

“There is a lot of different uses for tofu in Japanese cuisine.

You can have it cold, warm, boiled, fried—in any style. There’s also ways to freeze it and defrost it, so that all the water comes out and then you can braise it.”

Made with soymilk from soybeans, nigari is then added—a sodium liquid that sets the milk to create tofu. Nigari, as the liquid remains after salt is extracted from seawater, has plenty of healthy minerals in the water also. The process is kind of like making cheese. And like milk is to cheese, soybeans is to tofu in terms of the base-flavour.

“If you get good quality tofu, its already got a lot of flavour,” Robbins says.

“Like our miso, all the tofu we use is made in Hokkaido, 28 |

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from Tokachi in summer and Ebitsu in winter. It’s all made with the use of Hokkaido soybeans. It has much better flavour than other tofu types that are found here.”

“I don’t know if that’s because they are from Hokkaido, the way they are grown or a specific type of bean, but they have much better flavour!” Robbins explains.

Delivered fresh, not frozen, to Kumo Restaurant each week, Richard and his team like to keep it simple when it comes to preparing tofu for guests, often serving it un-cooked with a touch of soy sauce. A fried version is also popular.

“A lot of people enjoy the tofu steak here at Kumo.

We marinate the tofu with miso, ginger, garlic and other ingredients and marinate it for a couple of days, so the flavours sink together. We then pan-fry it with spiced flour, which includes chili, pepper, black pepper,” Robbins explains.

“It is a more modern version than simple fried tofu.”

While the world is catching onto this superstar food, why not try it right where it’s done best—here in Hokkaido.

“We really encourage people to try tofu. For me, I would say because it tastes so good, you should definitely try it!”

Visit Kumo Restaurant for lunch, dinner and après. www.kumoniseko.com

Take time to indulge, relax and enjoy the next level in relaxation at Ryko Spa. • Massage • Remedial Bodywork • Facial Therapies • Body Care • Weightlessness Therapy (Float Tank)

Skye Niseko 0136-55-6418

rykospa.com

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Say Chee-zu!

If Japan is the land of the rising sun then its largest prefecture and northern island, Hokkaido, is the land of dairy.

WORDS: CONOR ACUTT PHOTOS: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

Fifty-percent of Japan’s milk is produced in the northern island as well as 90% of its natural cheeses.

Hokkaido’s milks and cheeses fetch a high price in the southern prefectures as they are known for their impeccable quality.

Those who travel to the northern island are blessed to experience this amazing produce on a daily basis.

One of the best ways to enjoy these natural ingredients is in the humble cheesecake (which some may say is not so humble when created here!). This dessert is a pure expression of exceptional Hokkaido dairy.

We travelled far and wide tasting cheesecakes from all over the region and selected some of the top for our list. These cheesecakes use local produce and are created at the hands of the region’s best patissiers.

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The Classic Cheesecake Miura Confectionery in Kutchan was founded over 120 years ago in 1893. The fact that this small sweets shop is still operating is a testament to their quality and consistency. An essential element that contributes to Miura’s success is their ability to create new products while respecting generations old pastry recipes.

The highlight at Miura is a homage to the classic cheesecake. This sturdy slice is offered with a piquant apricot jam glaze; Miura adding their own modern touch to this centuries old recipe. The interplay between the milky, bread-like cake and the sharp, syrupy, apricot jam will have you licking your lips and at the same time scratching your head, “How can this be so good?”.

While in Niseko you will no doubt find yourself in Kutchan trying out a great izakaya or soup curry, we recommend grabbing a slice of this cheesecake for dessert while you are there.

Miura Confectionery, located on Route 5 near M Pocket. Open every day except Wednesday.

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The Baked ‘Cheese Cheese’ Cake One of the first things you see in Kutchan when you step off the train is Sweet Shop Fujii. This patisserie is famous for its Hokkaido themed treats with the ‘Lake Hangetsu’ cookie and ‘Cow Monaka’ (a Japanese sweet of azuki bean jam).

This patisserie has a wonderfully Japanese aesthetic, kawaii (cute), as the locals would say. There are a number of illustrated characters adorning the windows, signs and cakes, adding a childlike and cheery vibe to the place. It will be hard to miss ‘Oven-kun’ the yellow oven mascot.

A spectacular dessert that may go unnoticed behind the animal shaped creations and smiley mascots is the Baked ‘Cheese Cheese’ Cake. A dense slice with a

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crumbly, buttery base, this cheesecake is reminiscent of a traditional American dessert pie. The cheesy essence gives way to nutty notes upon first taste. These flavours linger on the palette thanks to the velvety, satin texture.

Local ingredients are the stars of this slice with eggs from Ishikawa Poultry Farm and milk from Takara Ranch in Kimobetsu. If you are catching the train to Niseko you must stop here. You may even be able to take your slice next door to Sprout Outdoor Espresso. Just be sure to ask nicely.

Sweet Shop Fujii, located near Kutchan Train Station. Open every day except Tuesday.

Niseko Melting Cheesecake If you are looking for dairy royalty in the Niseko region, look no further than Milk Kobo. At the base of Mt NisekoAnnupuri this dairy ‘compound’ is a sight to behold. From the Milk Kobo store, a dessert studio where amazing pastries are created right in front of your eyes, to a pizza restaurant, Mandriano, showcasing fine cheeses made in house, the entire lifecycle of cheese is on showcase.

The ‘Niseko Melting Cheesecake’ is one of the tastiest and most sought after creations from this cheese kingdom. You might find it hard to resist just one of these parcels of cheesy goodness.

It is instantly apparent from the rich colour and seductive smell that these cakes are made from

exceptional ingredients. These cakes are very simple and allow the world class dairy to take centre stage. As the name suggests this cheesecake will melt in your mouth, transforming from solid to creamy, cheesy goo on your tongue.

A trip to Milk Kobo is well worth it to indulge your dairy fantasies. If you don’t manage to visit the iconic dairy farm you must try the Niseko Cheese Tart, another highly sought-after Milk Kobo dessert. These tarts are sold at a small booth in the centre of Hirafu.

Milk Kobo, located towards Niseko Village from Hirafu.

Open every day.

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No-Bake Pineapple Cheesecake L’ocanda is a small Italian restaurant in Hirafu that creates some dazzling desserts out of their kitchen. This restaurant is family owned, headed by Pastry Chef Shingo Okada. Okada has spent many years perfecting his craft in patisseries in Tokyo and Nagoya and his expert skills in construction and presentation are immediately noticeable.

Okada’s abilities are on display in L’ocanda’s take on the humble cheesecake. Their ‘No-Bake Pineapple Cheesecake’ juxtaposes textures and flavours to create a slice of heaven that is greater than the sum of its parts.

The heavy base is wonderfully balanced by the light texture of the cake above. This creates an eating sensation that is unlike the other cakes on this list.

The inclusion of a thin pineapple layer adds another dimension to this delightful slice. The tangy, fruit flavours provide a stark contrast to the subtle cheese flavour in the rest of the cake, yet the two marry in perfect harmony.

This special dessert is only available on weekends so be sure to swing by before it sells out.

L’ocanda, located near the 7-Eleven in Hirafu. Open every day except Tuesday.

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New York Cheesecake On an unassuming street in the heart of Kutchan, nestled under a far more recognisable Korean restaurant, you will see a small, white door. Even if you do manage to spot this door through the whirl of white snow you may not know what you are looking at.

Luckily the sweet scent of cakes, cookies and muffins cannot be misunderstood. The dull orange glow of the display cabinet inside this hidden dessert heaven will guide your way as you seek shelter from the cold.

The dessert that put Matariya Bakery on the map and propelled it to the top of many ‘must-eat’ lists in Niseko is their ‘New York Cheesecake’. A traditional ‘New York Cheesecake’ differentiates itself from other cheesecakes by its smooth, velvety texture and its tall, dense structure. This cheesecake has all this and more.

The mouth feel is heavenly with a sweet, tangy finish. A signature of this cheesecake is the impossibly rich, dark base on which it sits.

This base oozes rum and vanilla.

Do yourself a favour and seek out this small hole in the wall bakery for what will truly be a delectable dessert experience.

Matariya Bakery, located just off Route 5 near Lucky. Open every day except Tuesday.

Fromage Cheesecake La villa LUPICIA provides one of the most expansive culinary offerings in Niseko. LUPICIA offers a unique experience with a wine cellar, art gallery and atelier, restaurant and a delistyle boutique. Last and certainly not least is the patisserie which serves up some of Niseko’s sweetest treats. One sure sell-out is the ‘Fromage Cheesecake’.

This is a no-frills cheesecake that will please even the most discerning desserters. There are four layers to this cheesecake, a tour of textures, each doing their part to ensure you won’t be satisfied with just one slice. A firm, biscuity crust blends seamlessly with the rich cheesy layer above which provides the cake structure and substance.

The next layer has a thick, mousse-like consistency, adding smoothness to each bite. The final layer is an airy, whipped cream, dabbed onto the cake to resemble a powdered parmesan providing a subtle and fresh cheese accent to finish.

You could easily spend an entire day at La villa LUPICIA eating and drinking some of Niseko’s finest produce. Wear your loosest fitting pants and clear some time in your calendar for a long afternoon nap. A food coma is an almost certainty after a visit here.

La villa LUPICIA, located near Gentemstick. Open most days. Check the website for closures.

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57 years

oF NANIWATEI 57 years of passion for authentic and quality Japanese cuisine.

Redefining robata in original robata-kaiseki style.

HUCKLEBERRY FARM, KABAYAMA

RESERVATIONS

info@robata-naniwatei.com 0136-22-3388 www.robata-naniwatei.com

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Boards and brews at Gentem Café, Ryoma Kohinata crafting it.

Photo: Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

Coffee Culture WORDS: CONOR ACUTT TRANSLATIONS: YUKO MIYAKE, AMI TOMIMORI & SIRADA TRANGHIRANYATORN

C

OFFEE HAS A LONG and illustrious history in Japan. First introduced in the late 1800s by the Dutch and then popularised after World War II, Japan’s insatiable interest in all things western led to coffee being imported at an astounding rate.

During the 20th Century, traditional Japanese coffee and tea houses or ‘kissatens’ began perfecting the art of single cup brewing and the pour over method.

Soon Japanese cafes were sourcing single origin beans and roasting in-house. Combining fresh roasted beans with the art of pour over coffee meant the Japanese were soon creating some of the best coffee in the world. This holds true in Niseko.

Niseko is at a crossroads of international cultures. At this intersection we find an explosion of variety and taste. We interview four founders of the Niseko coffee scene who utilise this beverage to enhance community ties, promote the beauty of the natural Niseko landscape, provide comfort and vitality and share love with all.

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Clockwise from left: Junko taking five; Yoshitaka serving up some of Niseko's best; barista at Graubünden crafting the perfect cup.

Photos: Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

“Niseko probably has the most semi-auto espresso machines in the whole of Hokkaido!”

GRAUBÜNDEN

Since December 1990, Junko Watanabe has operated her Swiss-German styled café, Graubünden, which is named for the region in eastern Switzerland that contains Kutchan’s sister city St Moritz. Jun spent much of her youth travelling the world and learning about the hospitality of other cultures and the décor at Graubünden demonstrates Jun’s worldly sensibilities. In the end the allure of her hometown was too hard to resist; a close-knit community, nature, great produce and the best powder in the world.

In Graubünden, Jun wanted to provide a location where customers felt like they were at home. She wanted to create a location where they could fuel up on good food and coffee before a long day on the mountain or relax by the fire with a cappuccino after a cold day on the slopes.

Blessed with an unparalleled vibrance and energy, Jun set about materialising her vision.

Being the cosmopolitan that she is, Jun thrives in the Niseko environment, with the area a true melting pot of international cultures. With so many people and tastes converging on this small town, Jun recognises the importance of creating a great, balanced cup of coffee.

“Coffee in Hirafu is made at a very high level,” Jun explains. “Niseko probably has the most semi-auto espresso machines in the whole of Hokkaido!”

Jun sources the beans used for Espresso from a special Seattle provider, chosen for their perfect balance of sweet and sour. For blend coffee she utilises organic beans to provide full body and rich taste. Her favourite drink is a cappuccino topped with an expertly foamed cream. What makes it even more special is when she can enjoy it at Graubünden near the fireplace after a long day skiing.

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SPROUT OUTDOOR ESPRESSO

A place locals can meet to talk about their passions and connect with one another. This was the dream of Yoshitaka Toge and wife Yukiko when creating Sprout Outdoor Espresso.

The iconic Kutchan café will celebrate its 10th birthday in December 2019.

The seed for this idea took root in Yoshi’s mind during a trip exploring the Alaskan wilderness.

During transit in Seattle he was amazed at the café culture. He witnessed communities of passionate individuals congregating at their favourite cafés to discuss their pursuits. He wanted to replicate this atmosphere.

Yoshi and Yukiko went about making their ‘Outdoor Café’ dream come alive. The family moved from Chiba prefecture with Yoshi working for Niseko Adventure Centre for five years. The family was finally able to open Sprout in 2009 and have been reaping the fruits of this creation ever since. Sprout has become a home for many mountain-minded individuals, meeting at the

store to enjoy a hot brew and discuss the outdoors.

Sprout have been roasting their own beans for the last four years, a decision Yoshi made to improve his ability to adapt and adjust his offering for different seasons and tastes. Along with a great selection of single origin beans, Yoshi also creates two of his own blends. The all year appropriate Mt. Yotei Blend, and the summer special, Niseko Haute Route.

Yoshi is partial to both espresso and drip coffee and his favourite beans are from Ethiopia—he describes the results as ‘kirei’— sharp, clear and light.

Sprout is still in its growing phase. Yoshi and Yukiko are constantly learning, adapting and transforming themselves and their beloved café.

It is an organic space, a living, breathing entity that has become home to many a trail runner, mountaineer or skier. If it’s the outdoors you love, you will find no better place to visit than Sprout Outdoor Espresso.

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Top: Coffee visionary, Ihara Hiromasa.

Bottom left: Made with local spring water at Mountain Kiosk. Photo: Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki Bottom right: An essential part of the Gentem family culture. Photo: Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

GENTEM CAFÉ

Located in quiet Kabayama, away from the hustle and bustle of Hirafu, is the Gentemstick headquarters. This timber and glass temple, an artwork in itself, is the spiritual home of the snow-surf movement and snowboarding in Niseko.

The Gentemstick snowboards lining the walls of the showroom are religious relics, snow-sticks handed down by the mountain gods. There is no better way to spend an afternoon than to enjoy a coffee in the upstairs Gentem Café and ruminate on the artisanal nature of these creations and ponder the icy origins of snow-surf.

The Gentem crew behind the café counter, under the guidance of their patron saint, Taro Tamai, extend their master craftsmanship to this humble beverage. Paying homage to the traditional Japanese kissaten, the Gentem Café specialises in slow drip coffee. Espresso is expressly forbidden.

In his youth Taro Tamai would drink and practice this style of coffee, making regular stops at Café Haiti in Shinjuku. It is from this café that Gentem now sources their coffee beans. These dark, flavourful beans are paired with the purest of spring waters sourced directly from the Kanro spring at the base of Mt Annupuri; the mountain that inspired Taro to move to Niseko and birth the phenomenon that is snow-surf.

It is also interesting to note that Emperor Showa visited this spring and pronounced its flavour sweet and soft.

A mainstay coffee craftsman at Gentem Café, Ryoma Kohinata, told us as we were enjoying our fresh brew that coffee was an essential part of his morning, whether he was surfing in the summer or snowboarding in the winter. We couldn’t agree more. There are few places in Hirafu where you can enjoy this elixir of life and be surrounded by powerful art and cultural artefacts. So, make the trip to this place of worship.

MOUNTAIN KIOSK

Ihara Hiromasa was born in Kutchan in the early 1980s and quickly found success as a self-taught snowboarder. It was inevitable that he would soon be competing on the world stage. Competition however would not remain his number one priority and his focus shifted to creating epic visuals in photos and on film, the mountains his canvas.

Frequently visiting the US to snowboard, Ihara would seek out great coffee before riding each morning. He would soon draw parallels between the artforms of coffee making and snowboarding—both filled with beauty and free expression. He became enamoured with this worldly tonic and dedicated himself to its mastery.

In 2014 the Mountain Kiosk was born and it was in this setting that Ihara could truly express his coffee vision. Being located at the Welcome Centre, the kiosk provides caffeine comfort to both new arrivals and those tired bodies leaving for home. More importantly it provides boarders and skiers easy access to this wonder fuel before they set off on the quad chair towards the peak or for those in need of a mid-session rejuvenator.

Ihara takes the remedial nature of his beloved coffee seriously and as such is committed to providing the most exceptional brew. The Mountain Kiosk uses specialty beans that are roasted daily by close partners, Takano Coffee from Arishima. “They allow us to change our roast and blend based on temperature and weather conditions in an instant,” Ihara explains thankfully.

Whether he is making espresso at the Mountain Kiosk or drip coffee at home, he ensures he is in a calm state of mind when practising his art. The combination of world class beans, pure Hokkaido spring water and the deft touch of a master craftsman result in one of the best coffees in Niseko, a coffee that cannot be reproduced anywhere else in the world.

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Hiromi Honma is the man to thank for the Kutchan 540 potato.

"Potatoes are not good when frozen, so people would bury them in the ground in 'nature’s fridge’, until spring time before digging them up again as a food source"

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You Say Potato Niseko celebrates potatoes for one simple reason—our local farmers grow some of the world’s best.

WORDS: EVAN JOHNSON PHOTOS: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

MAYBE YOU’VE HEARD of it described as ‘humble’ before?

The humble potato.

Well, that seems a bit unfair to us here in Niseko. We celebrate the potato. We really do. The annual Kutchan JagaMatsuri (Potato Festival) is one of the biggest celebrations on Niseko’s summer event calendar and draws thousands of visitors from near and far. And you may have seen Kutchan’s town mascot, Jaga-kun, the cutest little skiing potato the world has ever seen!

We celebrate potatoes for one simple reason—our local farmers grow some of the world’s best.

As anyone who has ‘hiked the peak’ on a clear day will attest, the greater Niseko area is largely open and flat. This, combined with the drastic temperature difference between the height of summer and the depth of winter, makes for super-fertile farmland and the perfect conditions for growing potatoes.

Specifically, the ‘Kutchan 540 potato’ is growing ever-morefamous, aged for one-year-and-a-half in Niseko’s neighbouring town of Kutchan and common on the menus of the area’s best local restaurants.

Hiromi Honma is the man behind this invention. A vegetable wholesaler, he heads up a family business that has been in operation for 99 years. He buys potatoes from local farmers and then, using a specialised ‘snow-room storage unit’ powered by snow and electricity, he stores them at low temperatures (though above freezing point) for 540 days

before selling to a carefully selected list of restaurants.

It’s a unique aging process which has an incredible effect.

“With time, the potatoes become sweeter,” Honma says.

“Photosynthesis creates starch in the potatoes, which begins saccharifying (changing into sugar) in lower temperatures.

Over time, the starch will turn to sugar, so aging the potato makes it taste sweet.”

It’s a technique which has been employed for generations, more through necessity than in any deliberate attempt to improve the product.

“Before we had refrigerators, vegetables would freeze when kept outside and there would be nothing to eat in winter,” Honma explains. “Potatoes are not good when frozen, so people would bury them in the ground in ‘nature’s fridge’, until spring time before digging them up again as a food source.”

The first person to see the opportunity that these aged potatoes could bring to the local food scene was Koji Murai, the owner and president of the locally renowned Robata Niseko Naniwatei.

“Mr Murai tried them, really liked them and was surprised by the sweetness. He said they were so delicious. At that time, I had about 400 kgs of 540-day-aged potatoes,” Honma explains. “He bought them all!”

According to Murai, customers at his Sapporo and Niseko restaurants immediately enjoyed them and this is when it took off. “Everyone gave us their seal of approval,” Murai says. “As

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Clockwise from left: Kutchan 540 potato served with steamed flounder at J'ai la patate; Koji Murai (left) pictured with Robata Niseko Naniwatei staff; J'ai la patate head chef Hiroyuki Seino.

a chef who has been in the industry a long time, I know that this is a special potato because it’s something you cannot have anywhere else.”

But why exactly 540 days, you may ask?

“The sweetness increases proportionally with time and temperature. So, the longer the potatoes are stored at low temperatures, the sweeter they will become,” Honma explains.

“But we sell them at 540 days because if we wait for 2 years, the timing will coincide with the new potato season.”

Genius!

Kutchan 540 potatoes pair well with sake or wine and the best way to have them is to keep it simple. “Steam them, salt them and then grill,” recommends Murai. “We also make a herring fish dish mixed with butter and served on top of the 540 potato.

This is a great way to taste the real flavour of the 540 potato.”

Another restaurant showcasing the Kutchan 540 potatoes is J’ai la patate, in Niseko’s Country Resort area. But rather than simply serve the potatoes, this restaurants dedication to them is almost obsessive.

For starters, the restaurant name means ‘I have a potato’ in French.

Head chef Hiroyuki Seino explains that, in France, saying ‘j’ai la patate’ doesn’t necessarily mean you actually have a potato. “It’s a quirky French idiom which means ‘I’m feeling great’, or for Japanese people, ‘I am genki’” he says. “People say it when asked how they are. I want people to feel good 46 |

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when they eat our food so this saying is perfect for our restaurant name.”

The potato fascination doesn’t stop at the name though.

Their logo is a potato. Potato shaped mobiles dangle elegantly from the ceiling. Side plates are carved to shape like potatoes.

Artwork on the walls feature real potato skins.

Seino himself even jokes that he looks a bit like a potato!

Don’t let these gimmicks fool you though. This is a seriously good Japanese-French restaurant which serves incredible, regularly rotating set menus.

Seino is Kutchan born and bred so, for him, using 540 potatoes was an absolute must. “Not only are they super sweet and delicious, they represent who I am and where I am from,” he says.

Seino agrees with Murai and suggests serving the Kutchan 540 potatoes with seafood, be that Red Sea Bream, Steamed Flounder or Pan-Fried Hokkaido Scallops. He too recommends pairing with white wine.

Aside from Robata Niseko Naniwatei and J’ai la patate, famous restaurants such as Ebisutei and Kamimura serve 540 potatoes in Hirafu.

So, this winter, while Niseko’s adventurous skiers and snowboarders are attempting 180’s and 360’s, up the stakes with a 540 of your own. A famous Kutchan 540 potato.

For more information on these restaurants, visit www.robata-naniwatei.com/en and www.patate.hokkaido.jp

雲

JAPAN FLAVOUR HOKKAIDO FRESH LUNCH • DINNER • APRÈS

Private dining & group bookings available • Walk-ins welcome Great range of wine, sake and cocktails

At Skye Niseko www.kumoniseko.com eat@kumoniseko.com +81 136 556 421 Catch the Skye Niseko or Ki Niseko village shuttles running 10am till late experienceniseko.com

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Powder Pro INTERVIEW: EVAN JOHNSON PHOTOS: ESSEX PRESCOTT

PRO SKIER ESSEX PRESCOTT visited Niseko last winter with other members of the Nordica ski team. Having made an incredible film and soaked up all Niseko has to offer, he’s coming back for another epic Niseko ski trip this winter. We caught up to talk about what goes in to making a ski film and to share the stoke for the next big Japow adventure.

So, tell us about your trip to Niseko last year. Who was in the crew?

It was insane. We had been planning Japan as a location to shoot our annual mid-winter, deep-pow video for a while and things lined up last year to make the trip happen! I was the featured athlete in the video we made but we had a crew consisting of Peter Wojnar (filmer), Tita Szlachetka (photographer), Garrett Knochenmus (guide/ backcountry safety), Tobin Seagel (Athlete for Powder Magazine) and Zanny Venner (Writer/Photographer).

Tell us about the films you shot here for Nordica and your work with them.

The main goal behind the film was to showcase how amazing the snow is in Japan. North Americans are huge on powder skiing and love to watch it, so why not go to the best place in the world to ski powder to shoot the video?

The majority of the content was shot using 2020 model gear as well which allowed good use of the content throughout the off-season when people are getting excited for the next ski season. We also shot some content for Powder Magazine mainly focused around one of the storm cycles that came through.

How much work goes on behind the scenes to make these types of films?

Making a ski film is not easy, there’s all sorts of moving parts to be considered. Lots of it comes down to preparation but there’s also an element of timing and luck. That’s why I love coming to Niseko…if you’re here, chances are you are going to get some really good snow and that takes a big part of the guess work out.

Another big factor is being with a crew that works well together. The main filmer and I have made multiple Nordica videos and we work really well together.

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Was last year the first time you’ve all been skiing in Niseko?

Personally, it was my second time in Niseko but for the rest of the crew it was their first. They had huge smiles on their faces the entire time we were there. I definitely talked it up to them and they each said it far surpassed their expectations and they can’t wait to come back.

How does Niseko compare to other ski destinations around the world?

Niseko is very unique for a lot of different reasons. It has multiple resorts which are all connected, obviously amazing snow and the food scene is great too.

How much of your time was dedicated purely to being on the snow, skiing and filming?

On these film trips we spend a lot of time on the snow, it’s all about maximising the content we create, so that usually involves being up first thing in the morning and filming for most or all of the daylight hours. This usually doesn’t leave time for much else.

Fortunately, on last year’s trip we were staying right on the hill at Skye Niseko and everything was so close that we were able to experience all that Niseko had to offer. From the amazing food, all the cool places to

grab a drink and the whole onsen experience, we were able to get our fair share of off snow activities in and not waste any film time in the process.

Any advice to people who are thinking about coming to Niseko for their next ski holiday?

For anyone out there planning on taking a ski vacation, Niseko is a must. Nothing compares to Hokkaido powder and Niseko is the premier place to enjoy it. Go big and make it the trip of a lifetime, you won’t regret it.

When you arrive, there is nothing better to do than hit the slopes as soon as possible. Whether day or night, the skiing is epic and proves to be the best jet lag cure available. Once sufficiently skied out, grab some ramen and then hit the onsen. Rinse and repeat, day after day; Niseko life at its finest!

What can we expect from your visit this season?

I’m gearing up for a big season and really excited to be coming back to Niseko. Now that I’m familiar with the area I think we’ll really be able to create a unique visual experience through our next Nordica video!

Watch the Nordica film featuring Essex at experienceniseko.com/nordica and follow him on Instagram - @essexprescott

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Going Beyond A beginner’s guide to Niseko’s lift-accessed backcountry.

WORDS: AMANDA TRAN

T

Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

HE JOY OF SKIING in Niseko is rooted in the exhilarating ride with bottomless turns surrounded by pine and birch trees. Niseko gets an average of 14m snowfall annually with a season that stretches from late November to early May, among the longest of any ski resort in Japan. Combine that with light and dry snow and you have yourself a powder hound’s dream. It’s easy to get hooked which is why so many skiers choose Niseko for their annual ski holiday.

Niseko United’s four resorts (Annupuri, Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu and Hanazono) also have a system of gates that further increases the terrain on offer by over 50%.

Going through these gates gives skiers access to the backcountry and often, fresh and untracked snow.

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LIFT-ACCESSED BACKCOUNTRY

Backcountry is another name for off-piste, outof-area skiing in unmarked or unpatrolled areas.

Prior to 2001, skiing out of resort boundaries in Niseko was banned. Unfortunately, this didn’t stop skiers from crossing boundary ropes in search of backcountry terrain. After some accidents between 1985 and 2000, the Niseko Rules and gate system were introduced to allow more freedom for skiers while providing limitations for their safety and specific off-limit zones. Within the Niseko United group are nine gates plus an additional two gates at Niseko Moiwa that give direct access to the backcountry. At the gates, you’ll find a warning sign telling you that you’re entering the backcountry and a copy of the daily avalanche report.

Lift-accessed backcountry is also sometimes called sidecountry or slackcountry. Despite the feeling of ski patrol being close by, the reality of lift-accessed backcountry is that it is completely unpatrolled.

Though access may be easy, avalanche risks are present and skiers should treat it as they would regular backcountry accessible by hiking.

Simply put, going through the gates means you’re on your own. “Any terrain through gates is backcountry. This is not safer than terrain accessed deep into the backcountry,” says Brody Leven, a professional adventure skier from USA who has skied all around the world and dedicates his life to backcountry skiing. Even with his wealth of experience and knowledge, Leven still takes backcountry safety seriously.

In the Niseko United resorts, Ski Patrol decides daily whether or not gates will be open. The decision is based on the daily avalanche report and snow forecast for the day. If conditions are deemed too dangerous, some or all gates stay closed. While Ski Patrol makes the final call to open or close gates, the onus is on skiers to decide for themselves whether they should enter. Through Niseko’s gates, you’ll find epic powder and put in some good turns but staying safe in this terrain is what allows you to keep coming back to enjoy it.

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START WITH EDUCATION

The Niseko Ski Patrol's daily decision on gate opening is an approach which differs from the rest of the world and is to cater to the varying weather conditions, storms and highwinds. However, this also leads to a misunderstanding that Niseko’s lift-accessed backcountry is risk-free because the gate is open. Many skiers end up approaching it as they would inbounds skiing, neglecting that it requires the same attitude to safety, knowledge and skills required for the deep backcountry.

An open gate does not mean risk-free terrain.

Another common misconception is that carrying avalanche safety equipment (beacon, shovel and probe) is enough to keep skiers safe. “While those are essentials to backcountry travel, the real goal is to not get in an avalanche,” says Andrew Spragg, Director of Rising Sun Guides.

Spragg has been a guide in Niseko for nearly 20 years and has regularly seen clients who have all the gear but have never practised using it. “The education part is more important than just carrying the equipment,” Spragg says. Leven also goes by the same philosophy and says that skiers wanting to go into the backcountry should begin the lifelong process of avalanche education.

Here in Niseko, Rising Sun Guides offers certified courses under the authority of Avalanche Canada. Whether you’re coming for a week or a month, the AST1 (Avalanche Safety Training) course is a valuable investment for anyone planning on exploring backcountry terrain through the gates.

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the backcountry and going through gates. The course covers essential backcountry travel skills such as companion rescue, terrain evaluation, formation of avalanches, trip planning and other critical skills for making informed decisions.

The 2-day course is the first step in preparing you for worst-case scenarios while also teaching you how to plan your own backcountry trips. It’s the best way to kickstart a lifetime of access to epic snow and terrain. For skiers going through gates for the first time, this is only the beginning of your mountain exploration journey and though lift-accessed backcountry is a lot of fun, you’ll soon want to experience the deep backcountry.

“Never underestimate the power of an avalanche and never overestimate the capability of your equipment or skills”

Clockwise from far left: Companion rescue training in the AST1 course; Avalanche course; Demonstrating how to identify weak layers in the snow pack.

Photos: Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

RESPECT THE MOUNTAIN

“Mountains speak, wise men listen” – John Muir.

Without understanding the mountain, its changing conditions and how to read terrain, it’s impossible to make good choices. A major component of the AST1 course is understanding terrain correctly. In the backcountry, there are things that should be intuitive and some things that are counterintuitive. What’s critical is being able to differentiate the two.

Spragg believes that the easiest way to mitigate risk is “to gather some of that terrain awareness to identify trigger points and terrain hazards.” This is especially the case in Niseko where many eager skiers find themselves traversing along the ridge in Annupuri after going through Gate 2. This area is a known cornice hazard with snowy overhangs so skiers should avoid riding under the cornice or over the top of them. By knowing how to identify terrain, hazards and traps, you are in a better position to pick your line safely.

READ AND RESPECT THE NISEKO RULES

Akio Shinya is a local legend and Chief of the Niseko Avalanche Institute. He wakes up at 4am every day during winter to complete the local avalanche report. “I work every day for 85 days in winter. No days off,” Shinya says. Having lived in Niseko for 46 years, Shinya has been an advocate for accident prevention in Niseko for the last 30 years. He raised the need for Niseko Rules in the 80’s and after the decision to form them in 2001, Shinya was part of the team that wrote them.

He stresses that the rules are there to ‘give people more freedom’ not to stop people from enjoying the mountain. The Niseko Rules prohibit the crossing of boundary ropes or entering gates when they are closed and lift passes are confiscated if you do. We’ve all been tempted to duck a rope to chase good snow but it’s important to remember that our decisions on the mountain don’t just affect whether we get in and out safely but also any riders that may follow our tracks.

Given the amount of terrain accessible through the gates, there’s no reason to duck ropes. And losing a pass sucks. Respect the rules, respect the mountain and live to ski another day!

GEAR UP

You and every member of your group should be entering the backcountry with avalanche safety equipment – an avalanche transceiver (also known as a beacon), avalanche shovel and avalanche probe (for Niseko, you should get the longest probe possible). There’s a proper system and technique to rescuing someone buried in an avalanche and taking the AST1 course is the first step in learning how to use the safety equipment correctly and efficiently.

“Never underestimate the power of an avalanche and never overestimate the capability of your equipment or skills,” Shinya explains.

Since safety equipment can be quite expensive to buy (though a worthy investment if you’re planning on spending time in the backcountry), you can hire all equipment including a backpack from Rising Sun Guides, YamaSport and other local rental companies for very reasonable prices.

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“The fact that you can get out of a gate and ski untracked, unmanaged terrain is amazing”

KNOWING YOUR ABILITIES AND YOUR LIMITS

Niseko’s backcountry is not the place to master the pizza or falling leaf. If you’ve ever fallen over in waist deep powder, you know the struggle is real. Riding in powder requires different turning techniques that people without powder experience are often unfamiliar with. Conditions can change pretty dramatically from clear blue skies one minute to wild winter storms with zero visibility the next.

Only riders confident of their abilities to handle various snow conditions should venture out.

GoSnow’s Powder Workshops are one of the best ways to learn and improve riding techniques and get coaching in off-piste terrain. The advanced workshops are limited to a maximum of four people and focus on developing the skills needed to navigate steep tree runs in deep powder so you’ll be guided to some of the best powder runs on the mountain.

Whether you’re out on a guided tour or riding with friends, stay within your limits and speak up if you’re not feeling comfortable. “Take a step back in terms of difficulty level, don’t ride right at your limit in the backcountry and leave a margin of error given the increased risk,” Spragg says. Likewise, peer pressure isn’t cool in the backcountry so riding buddies shouldn’t force anyone else to push their limits. A good rule of thumb to go by is ‘the most conservative voice wins’ – yes, even if it means missing out on that gnarly line.

BE FAMILIAR WITH THE AREA (OR GET A GUIDE)

If you’re hoping to wander around aimlessly without a plan, the backcountry isn’t the place to do it.

Niseko’s variable weather conditions and sometimes low visibility can make it difficult to navigate so at least one person in your group should have a good knowledge of the area you’re riding.

If you’re new to the area, it’s best to hire a professional guide. The waterfall through Gate 9 makes for a great photo but falling in won’t make for a good time (and yes, this happens). Rising Sun Guides and GoSnow offer backcountry tours and Powder Guiding which are recommended for all first timers going through gates.

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Quick Tips for Beginners to Niseko’s Gates F Knowledge is king – take an AST course.

F Go with a buddy (or group of buddies).

F Bring your safety equipment (beacon, shovel and probe) and know how to use it.

F Be prepared to adjust your plan.

F Read the Niseko Rules.

F Prepare for Niseko’s unique terrain and conditions.

F If you don’t know, don’t go.

Get a guide.

F Keep emergency contact numbers handy.

F Check the forecast and read the daily local avalanche bulletin.

F Have Fun!

Off-piste powder under King Lift at Niseko Grand Hirafu.

Photo: Amanda Tran

DON’T GO OUT ALONE

Heading out the gates alone increases your risk in the backcountry and is not recommended. Find a riding buddy or a group and head out together. This way, you can look out for each other and in the event that something goes wrong, there’s at least one person looking out for you. Avalanche gear is also useless if there’s no one there to use it so gear up and head out together. You’ll also have someone to capture you getting pitted by the pow!

OFF-PISTE IN-RESORT

Emergency Contact Numbers

Useful Contacts & Websites

F Grand Hirafu: 0136-22-0109

F Niseko Village: 0136-44-2211

F Rising Sun Guides (for AST courses and backcountry guides): 080-2866-9794

F Niseko Annupuri: 0136-58-2080

F GoSnow (for powder workshops): 0136-23-2665

F Niseko Moiwa: 0136-59-2511

F Niseko Avalanche Report: niseko.nadare.info

F Hanazono: 0136-22-0103

F Fire / Rescue: 119 F Police: 110

For those who don’t fancy venturing beyond the gates or just want a soft introduction to off-piste riding, Niseko offers excellent in-bounds off-piste skiing areas such as Hirafu’s Miharashi, Large or Dynamic. A powder workshop is also a good way to explore off-piste terrain under the guidance of a professional.

When asked about what makes Niseko a unique place to ski, Spragg says readily accessible backcountry terrain and tonnes of snow. “The fact that you can get out of a gate and ski untracked, unmanaged terrain is amazing,” he says. And he’s right. Every year, skiers travel from around the world to experience mind-blowing powder so deep that it feels like floating on clouds.

But as people, we often let our excitement get the better of us and that can sometimes lead to poor decision making. Whether you’re a beginner rider planning on going through gates for the first time or someone who has been going for a while without fully understanding the risks involved, the only way to really mitigate your risks and stay safe in the backcountry begins with education. And as the age old saying goes, safety first.

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American Dream How Japan’s famous dream powder became reality, as told by Nick Hill.

I

Nick Hill has been living in Niseko for almost a year and is planning for many winters to come. He loves snowboarding, mountain trekking and is the author of his self-published book, The Road to PyeongChang: A Real Guide to the 2018 Winter Olympic Games.

The photos are of good friend and inspiration, Evan Wilcox. Evan’s bottomless pursuit for Japow and Japanese culture would fuel Nick’s very own American Dream and ultimately guide him to Niseko.

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GREW UP ON A LITTLE FARM in the great state of Ohio, USA. Farming, fishing, hunting and being outside were what fueled me. As I got older, it was snowboarding and a desire to travel the world.

My senior year of high school, I recall getting a copy of Snowboarder magazine and the cover was so impressive I cut it out and hung it on my wall. A guy named Nicolas Müller was the Rider of the Year, there was an article covering the Torino Winter Olympics to come, and a shot of Nicolas snowboarding off a building somewhere in Japan. It was a dream. A long shot idea in February of 2006.

I buried that dream deep into my identity. In college, I picked up a job at a little ski resort outside of Cleveland, I was president of the ski team, and when I graduated from The Ohio State University, I loaded my Subaru Forester to the gills and headed westward to the mountains.

From Utah to Tahoe, then to PyeongChang and back. I told myself, ”Japow by thirty”’, and after achieving my goal of writing a book and celebrating my 30th, it was time to see what all the hype was about.

I gathered a few of my close friends and convinced them to join me for a “Japanuary” vacation, followed by a flight north to the 2018 Winter Olympic Games. Before the trip, I recall a friend of mine asking what my next project was going to be and I drew a blank. He smirked and told me I would find out along the way. Three days into my trip, I knew exactly where I would call home the following winter—Niseko, Japan.

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FEELS LIKE HOME 日本 Japan, 北海道 Hokkaido, ニセコ Niseko: places that now

mean home. Here—beneath the piles of snow, under the layers of winter clothes and hidden in the often-cryptic kanji—is a community, a family that feels familiar even though it’s foreign. Kutchan is a town rooted in farming, the Shiribetsu River flowing with richness and bringing life to the valley, Mt Niseko-Annupuri rising to one side as the iconic Mt Yotei demands attention to the other.

I see Niseko as a community of Japanese and foreigners, willing to welcome the world with open hands and share the joys of these great lands we call home. Niseko is a melting pot of cultures from around the world.

This same diversity that sets us apart can also highlight what unites us. Sure, we may talk a bit differently but we all love the mountains. Whether we are snowboarders, skiers, snowshoers or even one of the folks who just want to get through the winter, we love living here.

Fumio Sato, Niseko Mountain Resort Grand Hirafu Ski Operation Manager, tells me that while Australia is still the top visitor country followed by Hong Kong, this profile is shifting.

“Asian countries such as Singapore, China, Thailand, and Malaysia are growing fast. People from North America, Russia and Europe are growing as well,” Sato explains.

“While not exact, the number of tourists coming from North America is increasing 5-10% every year...It depends on the year too. I think the number rises in years with a high amount of snowfall.”

And, despite all of the assumed differences between Japan and America, I can’t help but see all of the similarities. Niseko can seem so foreign to me in one moment and yet so familiar to me the next.

For instance, if you are an avid snowboarder, you’ve probably tried a wide variety of different boards, but have you given a local, legendary Gentemstick a demo?! After a long day of riding or skiing powder there’s nothing like getting in

“Whether we are snowboarders, skiers, snowshoers or even one of the folks who just want to get through the winter, we love living here” a hot tub…until you have tried a Japanese onsen. I used to sometimes find myself craving a bowl of Campbell’s Chunky Chicken Noodle Soup after a day on the slopes, and then I discovered Hokkaido’s soup curry. If you haven’t had a bowl yet, you need to.

Having lived a solid portion of a decade in Utah and Lake Tahoe, California—Niseko belongs in the conversation of topshelf international ski towns. I remember getting to Utah and seeing the slogan “Best Snow on Earth” on my newly-acquired license plate. A pro skier friend of mine used to laugh and say, “’Best Snow on Earth’ … unless you take a ski trip to Japan”.

At the time, I didn’t understand where he was coming from.

Japan was this unattainable dream.

Quite a bit has changed in the time since I thought this way. I came to a realisation—just like me, Niseko is fueled by the powder days, rich with a culture of its own and open to inviting the rest of the world to join in on the fun. If you are willing to sit down and formulate a good plan, you too could find yourself on a life-changing journey around the world to Niseko.

GETTING HERE

Now you might think that travelling halfway around the world is not that easy. For this I will quote President Theodore Roosevelt and say, “Nothing worth having comes easy”. That being said, I would argue that Niseko is becoming more and more easily accessible every year. In fact, in the past year, Qatar Airlines, Finnair and several others have added direct flights to New Chitose International Airport. experienceniseko.com

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Recently, I researched travel prices and was surprised to discover that it often costs less to take a trip (airfare, transit from airport to hotel and lift tickets) from many major US cities to Niseko, than it does to make the same trip to Beaver Creek, Colorado. The initial findings were just a little shocking, so I dug a bit deeper.

As Niseko has been added onto the Ikon Pass and Mountain Collective, it has become nearly effortless to plan your Japanese ski holiday. For those who have the Epic Pass, you will find Rusutsu and Niseko relatively close in proximity— certainly a day trip worth looking into.

On my first snowboard adventure to Japan, our group of friends had pass deals at Niseko, Rusutsu and Kiroro. It made for an amazing time, as we had opportunities to experience Niseko, in addition to discovering this great region of Hokkaido.

I have found for many English-speaking travellers, the language barrier in Japan can be a mental roadblock. However, it doesn’t have to or need to be. Japanese is an extremely complex language that you can spend a lifetime trying to master and Japanese people are very proud of their language, as they should be. You don’t need to master Japanese, but it is welcoming if you take the time to learn some basics prior to your trip. You’ll be glad you did.

Think back to your home country. As an American, we constantly expect travellers to use English. It’s the, “You’re in an English-speaking country, learn to speak English” mentality. However, if a non-native speaker is at least 66 |

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attempting to use English, it can go a long way. Same in Japan.

If you attempt to use some Japanese, many natives will be more apt to try and help you out. It may seem like ‘nobody knows English’, but I have found that English is more readily available in Niseko than anywhere else I have travelled to within the country, including Tokyo.

SUMMER GROWTH

Famed for its ridiculous snowfall, Niseko’s ‘off-season’ is on the rise too. As I came into my first spring in Niseko, I remember thinking to myself I didn’t want the snow to melt. It felt like my Japanese dream was disappearing out from under me. It didn’t take long for me to realise that just like in Park City or Lake Tahoe—summertime is a dream of its own.

Whether you prefer golf course views with Mt Yotei under the sun, hiking to the top of a mountain with a vast look over the surrounding landscape, a peaceful day spent fishing for trout or racing down the rapids in one of the inflatable ducky boats, Niseko will have a summer activity for you. Not to mention heaps of cultural festivals (matsuri) to pair with a perfect summer day. These matsuri have gained the attention of many of my friends on social media as it’s hard to ignore a festival focused on running through flames or racing to collect potatoes.

But it’s not all play in the summer. The disappearing snow makes way for continued resort growth. Like the new Mountain Center expansion, which is situated next to the

existing Mountain Center building, adjacent the Hirafu Gondola. Sato is looking forward to guests enjoying the newly extended centre with improved facilities.

“The existing building has been too small for the rental store before. It will be moved to the second floor in the new extended building,” he explains. “It will be especially convenient for the guests who rent gear and want to skiin ski-out, without having to carry anything back to their accommodation. GoSnow ski school will be on the first floor as well, so that will be great for our guests.”

Growth doesn’t only mean buildings. As I write, Niseko prepares to host the 2019 G20 Tourism Ministers’ Meeting.

This will be a monumental event for Niseko, as it will give our community an opportunity to showcase our resort to Ministers of Tourism from some of the leading countries around the globe.

We’re not hosting this event in the winter to put our Japow on display as this is something the world already knows about.

The event is to be hosted in the fall, featuring our mountains painted with the beauty of autumn colors. Growth is about stepping into something new and taking a risk. We want the world to know there’s more here than just perfect powder snow.

FUTURE OF NISEKO

So what does the future of our little farming community look like? Ironically, farming is the perfect metaphor—it starts with a rich fertile soil made up of open minds, diverse culture

and an eagerness to learn and promote growth. Add a seed worth growing: ideas like hosting the G20 Meeting, annual corporate retreats and sporting competitions like the Niseko Classic bike race, golf tournaments, or a future Winter Olympic Games.

Next, ensure growth is in a purposeful direction for the community—this is key—as we must not only focus on the present, but also hold tightly to the preservation and sustainability of our community for future generations. If we use this formula for success, this town will be known for far more than potatoes and powder days.

BACK TO THE FUTURE

Remember that magazine cover I put on my wall as a senior in high school? Realising I can now read a little bit of kanji, I took a closer look and found the writing on the building said ‘Hokkaido’. I asked a colleague to help me read the remainder and show me it’s location on a map. He strained to read it and and then dropped a pin on the map to me.

The building was roughly a mile and a half away from my apartment here in Niseko.

I found myself overcome with emotion as I realised my snowy American dream is now my Japanese reality.

Follow the dream @_nickhill_ @evanwilcox @daniel_honda @toshi_pander

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Stomp It WORDS: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

Photo: Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

TO DESCRIBE A ‘STOMP,’ we first have to visit the steps a skier or snowboarder must take before presented with the opportunity to stomp. Spend enough time riding on top of frozen water on wooden planks strapped to your feet and you will inevitably encounter some choices that boil down to this: go around or take flight.

This is also known as answering the call of the ‘send,’ and to pick up that call is a staple of the skiing mental game that crosses the minds of riders, either as an encouraging ‘send it!’ or a self-assured, sometimes doubtful: “I’m gonna send it”.

Then, there’s ‘stomping it,’ a term used to describe a clean landing and exit after a send. Stomping it with conviction and poise is part of the gold standard off which stoke, both personal and from your friends is based. In this article, we will focus on this part of the send.

We talked to a backcountry skier about the mental side of the stomp and a snowboarder with an affinity to airtime about the physical steps he takes to raise the chances of a stomp.

CHRISTIAN BANG JENSEN (DANISH SKIER) To set up the scene for you, I’ll first talk about the approach to a face and accessing conditions for a send which will hopefully follow in a stomp. Making your way to the summit, sometimes in rough conditions with high winds always makes you a bit nervous.

Finally getting to the top and transitioning to downhill mode is part relief and part escalated nerves.

Your first thoughts are usually, “Is this too steep or advanced for my level of skiing?”

Simultaneously, the thoughts of snowpack safety and snow quality cross your mind.

Sometimes you’re facing a cruiser powder playground and other times you have pedal to the metal, high-risk freeriding in sharky (rocks with shark-fin edges hidden under the snow) or technical terrain.

Then, you must think about how to ride the face. It is one thing to study the face from the bottom or from photos and another thing to be sitting on top of the line with the ski tips hanging over the void. Stepping out of the comfort zone, being creative, and riding with style are part of the joys of skiing. You need to push the limits but at the same time, be aware of how hard to push. Once you’ve psyched yourself for the line, call your ‘drop in’ so your friends at the top and/or bottom can hear it.

Now there’s no turning back.

When you spot the feature you want to air off, start the approach, scrub speed if needed, and be aware of your centre (of gravity) to find that coveted air time and complete zen. The final steps leading to the stomp are springing off the takeoff to give yourself a bit more hang time and then flying, first skywards and then down to earth. All that hiking, study of the face, and creativity comes together into a feeling that is hard to describe.

In these moments, the world falls away to the immediate experience. This is truly living in the now, nothing else matters. Adrenaline courses through the veins but you are unaffected by the jitters, everything is pure screaming joy.

Kick out that landing gear with a slight bend in the knees to absorb the shock of impact with the powerful leg muscles and hips, while being careful not to be fully extended. In a perfect landing, a slight drag of the backs of the skis will help straighten them if they have shifted in flight, which will then transition onto a centered landing, allowing the skis and body to flex as a system to take in force.

Then, you can ride out at full bore screaming with the wind, adrenaline and endorphins firing at full gas through the body. It is truly the best feeling in the world.

Final step: Ride out to the fist bumps and collective excitement at the bottom of the face. THAT is stomping it.

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Photo: David Little

“One of the most important things one must do is committing one-hundred-percent to ‘floating like a butterfly’.”

SAM KLOMP (DUTCH SNOWBOARDER) Everyone has a different way to describe the feeling and the process: stomping, sending, flying, mad air-time, or raving, but it all comes down to getting that feeling of being weightless and invincible for a few seconds.

Here are a few tips that help me achieve mad air while looking as graceful as a butterfly landing on that beautiful flower in the garden while you were enjoying that ice-cold beverage on a midsummer evening.

Once you find the feature to jump off, there is no coming back. One of the most important things one must do is committing one-hundred-percent to ‘floating like a butterfly’.

On the run into the launchpad, make sure to point the board straight and flex those knees and ankles to create a decent amount of pop. This will add some height to whatever you are jumping off of, giving you a better chance of getting “mad hang time,” which is that feeling where your launch force and gravity are equalised; that addicting moment between flying and falling.

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While in the air, tuck those knees in, look at the landing, not your board and softly whisper, “I am the best snowboarder alive” to yourself, which will help the ‘staying committed’ part. Align your board to land centered while in the air, because once its wheels down, it will be much easier to stomp if you are squared off instead of riding the back leg or tomahawking.

The landing will be nice and soft in the powder, but still try to absorb as much as possible with the knees and ankles unless spinal compression or a knee to the face is your thing.

Many riders forget that riding away after the stomping is almost as important as stomping it. After a successful (centred) touchdown, absorbing the impact of falling to the earth at nine-point-eight metres per second per second, ride away in a straight line to maintain balance. Make sure not to show your emotions for extra steeze-points.

Now is the time to finish the phrase starting with ‘float like a butterfly…’. If there is space and you are comfortable enough, please feel free to make a few aggressive slashes, rips and sprays to ‘sting like a bee’.

Follow California-grown adventure junkie and coffee drinker, Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki, at @ chilledmoose. Follow chill Canadian dude and snow shredder, David Little, at @d_lit

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On Patrol The brave men and women who work tirelessly in numbingly cold weather, often before the sun rises over Mt Yotei, all to make sure that Mt Niseko Annupuri is as safe as possible for all to enjoy.

WORDS: EVAN JOHNSON PHOTO: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

M

ASAYA YAMAMOTO is a Ski Patroller who has spent the last 22 winters working in Niseko, Hakuba and Canada. He is now Assistant Director of the Niseko Grand Hirafu Patrol Section.

He, along with 55 other patrollers in the Niseko United Ski Patrol, works from October, preparing the ski courses for November opening, through to the end of the winter season in May, ensuring that Niseko’s famous skiing can be enjoyed safely by all visitors.

Yamamoto enjoys the variety in his job. “We work in safety management and accident prevention, identifying hazardous areas and making them safe or sectioning them off,” he explains. “We also offer first aid to injured skiers, and search and rescue for anyone unfortunate enough to get lost.”

“When lifts malfunction, we assist in evacuating people off them. And we are constantly providing up-to-date information on the weather, snow conditions and avalanche risk via daily reports,” Yamamoto says.

Though he acknowledges that Ski Patrol is not a job for just anyone and it does come with risk.

“In nature, there is always risk. The weather here can be brutal and can change quickly, so it’s important to be prepared,” Yamamoto says, explaining also the main challenges that come with the job. “In a place like Niseko with such international appeal, we have visitors who speak many, many different languages. A lot of languages which the Ski Patrol team does not understand. This language barrier makes the job challenging, as sometimes we simply cannot communicate the rules to guests. They don’t understand!”.

From Yamamoto’s perspective, it is not always super steep slopes or freak weather changes which cause the most accidents. Rather, most occur when people don’t know or ignore

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the rules, are fatigued or when the ski hill is at its busiest.

“Interestingly, we notice certain times of day when accidents are most common. At 11am, when everyone has had their morning ski and is heading back for lunch, we get a lot of collisions. The same thing happens between 2pm and 3pm.

Tired riders and busy slopes are not a good mix,” he explains.

His recommendation to enjoy the mountain safely is simple, “Know the rules.”

Niseko has two sets of rules, which is uncommon in other ski resorts. “We have the Code of Conduct which explains the rules and etiquette when skiing and snowboarding inside the boundary of the ski resort. And we also have The Niseko Rules for when guests use the Niseko backcountry gates.”

The gate system is another area which the Ski Patrol, the Niseko Avalanche Institute and the ski resort put a lot of time and effort into. Whilst back-country areas outside the gates are ‘unpatrolled’, the Ski Patrol team is responsible for contacting the Niseko Avalanche Institute early every morning, checking the weather and snow conditions and deciding whether to open and close gates. They always have a Ski Patrol representative at the peak access gates when open.

“We have someone there not to stop people going out,” says Yamamoto, “But to give people the necessary information they need to make informed decisions about accessing the backcountry on any given day.”

And just because gates are open, that doesn’t mean there is no risk. “There is always risk. Every time you ski, there is risk.

When you venture into unpatrolled backcountry, that risk is greater. We want everyone to have fun but to also understand and respect the risks they are taking.”

Read the Niseko Rules now at www.niseko.ne.jp/en/niseko/niseko-rules/

“The weather here can be brutal and can change quickly, so it’s important to be prepared”

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Am I Fit to Ski?

Over 15 winters managing Niseko Physio, Bevan Colless is an expert on getting the most out of your body when it comes to snow sports in Niseko. Here, Bevan shares his knowledge on getting ski-ready.

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BY DEFINITION, snow sports are seasonal in nature, so even professionals have long periods off the snow and worry about their fitness at the start of every season.

For recreational skiers who don’t exercise much in their normal life, there is often a real concern as to how their body will handle the rigours of a week on the slopes. And it’s totally understandable.

The famous deep and dry Niseko powder adds an extra level of complexity that would only see a cowboy head out with guns blazing on their first ski of the season. Hang on a minute, that’s a mixed metaphor. I don’t think actual cowboys ski, but you get my drift. Absolutely all of us experience levels of trepidation when wondering if we are ready to ski again.

So how do you prepare for a week’s skiing? The great news is, it’s not that hard. Try to start a ski fitness regime four-plus weeks before you arrive in the snow. There are many types of exercise to suit our different lifestyles and levels of

fitness. Choose a simple routine that involves stability and agility. You don’t even have to hit the gym!

Here are some hot tips to help increase your ski fitness: • Spend a few minutes every day balancing on one leg using stability devices, or you can use a leg press machine without holding on and keep the other leg in the air. It’s great for balance and core strength • Over-gear cycling (about 50rpm high resistance indoor or outdoor) is perfect to get your legs turning over with a bit of cardio • Lunges are excellent to activate those inner thighs and butt muscles • Jumping split squats can be excellent to strengthen knees and quads and improve agility But none of this is much use if you’re reading this from the ski lodge, already nervous about hitting the slopes tomorrow. So how can you know if you are ready to ski?

Fear not, we can help!

Here’s a few other tips to help you stay injury free: • make sure you always stick to runs within your ability • ensure the DIN settings on your bindings are not too high • ski shorter days and take plenty of rest • make sure your goggles are clean and dry. It’s a good idea to carry a spare set in case they get fogged up

"The famous deep and dry Niseko powder adds an extra level of complexity that would only see a cowboy head out with guns blazing on their first ski of the season."

At our Niseko Physio clinic we have developed a comprehensive ‘fit to ski’ assessment using a battery of tests rather than one single measure. Pass them all, and you’ll know that you’re good to go.

The assessment includes: • a repeated one leg sit to stand • one leg hop down from a step with a twist • zig zag hopping • two foot jumping These are also great elements to add into your pre-season exercise regime. But if you’re already slope side and questioning your ski fitness, give us a call and book in a ‘fit to ski’ assessment. We want to see you out there enjoying your holiday and staying safe and what better way is there to boost your confidence than with a thumbs up from a trained sports physio.

While stretching before skiing will feel nice, contrary to popular belief, it won’t help prevent injuries. A good warm up on an easy run or even a walk to the lifts is a better way to ensure your muscles are warm, have adequate blood in them and are ready to ski as well as they can.

After each day’s skiing try to eat a protein rich meal and book a sports massage to replenish the legs, and of course go for one of Niseko’s famous onsens (hot spring baths).

Many claim the mineral rich waters have various healing powers, and whether or not they actually help your muscles recover, it definitely feels great!

I always recommend spending a few minutes in the plunge pool (extra cold-water bath) at the end of an onsen to get the ice-bath recovery that a lot of professional football teams are now using. If it’s too cold, you can keep the upper body out.

Finally, ski with confidence. Never choose to fall over because you’re tired or frustrated stay upright, take a moment to think about your technique, take your time and point those skis down the hill. You got this!

Niseko Physio is open every day from 8am-8pm. Visit nisekophysio.com

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Gear Up WORDS: EVAN JOHNSON

SAFETY, COMFORT, PERFORMANCE—the three most important things to consider when gearing up for a day on the mountain.

We caught up with YamaSport’s David and Nicola Tarr to talk about how to make sure you get it right when choosing ski and snowboard equipment.

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What is the most important piece of equipment to get right?

Nicola: Your boots! It really doesn’t matter how good the ski or board is, if your feet hurt because your boots aren’t right, you won’t being enjoying yourself as much as you should.

David: When you go to the rental shop to get fitted, wear just one pair of well-fitting ski or snowboard socks. This will help us measure your feet accurately (length and width). When choosing the right boots for you, we will also take into consideration wider calves, slimmer ankles and any boot issues you might have experienced in the past.

Nicola: The majority of boot problems actually turn out to be clothing issues. If you wear two pairs of thick socks or tuck your thermals or leggings into your boots, you end up with all sorts of lumps and bumps inside the boots. These might feel okay when you first put your boots on in the morning, but as the day progresses you may develop pressure points, rubbing and blisters.

Do I have to be an advanced rider before I should try “premium gear”?

Nicola: Not at all! If it’s your very first time on the snow, you can certainly start on the premium gear, but our standard range of gear is just as new and is specifically built for learning on. It is comfortable and easy to use while you master the basics.

Premium gear is a great choice for lower intermediate skiers and above. Once you’ve had a few lessons and have mastered the basics you will find that the sportier design features of the premium skis and boards will really help you improve.

There are so many different ski and board types, how do I know what to choose?

Nicola: Here’s where your friendly rental technicians can help. The more information we get from you about the type of skier you are and the places you love to ski, the easier it is for us to match you with the right equipment.

Generally, if you are a beginner or intermediate skier, we’d steer you towards

goggles is a must. Apart from their obvious safety benefits, helmets keep your head warmer and collect less snow than hats. This in turn keeps your goggles drier and less likely to fog up!

With goggles, look for an all-weather lens or lowlight lens which will give you definition on the snow without cutting out too much light. These will also work well for Niseko’s famous night skiing.

David: It probably goes without saying that you will also need good warm and waterproof outerwear and gloves to keep you warm and dry. All these items are available to rent or to buy in Niseko.

When it’s cold, snowy and the wind is blowing, some sort of face mask, neck warmer or balaclava that can be pulled over the mouth and nose when necessary will help protect your skin and keep you snug!

Carving Skis

All Mountain Skis

Powder Skis

F Built for on-piste skiing

F Go anywhere

F Easy turn initiation and handling

F Good in mixed conditions

F Built for powder conditions

F Most forgiving for beginners

F Wider underfoot than carving skis

a softer flexing carve ski which will turn well at moderate speeds. If you’re an advanced skier looking to ride on-piste, we’ll fit you out in something a bit stiffer and sportier to give you maximum stability at speed.

David: All-mountain skis are the ‘go anywhere’ option. They are wider under the foot and give you more float and easier turn initiation in mixed snow conditions. We have a big range of Allmountain skis which can handle both fresh and choppy snow with ease, as well as carving a turn on the groomed runs with no problem.

F ‘Float’ with less effort in deep snow F Widest underfoot

Powder skis are more specialised for the soft, deep powdery conditions which Niseko is famous for. Powder skis are wider underfoot to give you plenty of float in the powder snow, but still have enough control and maneuverability on the ski outs and groomed runs home.

Nicola: Snowboards generally fall in to these same three categories.

Niseko is a very snowy place, does this affect the sort of clothing and accessories I might need?

Nicola: Niseko’s very snowy weather means wearing a helmet and snow

Why is renting gear, rather than buying gear, a good idea?

David: Renting has many advantages.

Anyone who has lugged ski or board bags around airports and on and off public transport will know that it isn’t much fun. Depending on your airline you may also get charged for excess or oversized luggage.

If you rent in resort, you can choose upto-date equipment that suits the current snow conditions and you can swap during your holiday if the conditions change or you fancy trying something new. You can even swap your skis for a snowboard (or vice versa).

Nicola: Another great advantage of renting skis and boards is that all the maintenance of the equipment is looked after by the shop–no need to pay for servicing or waxing your skis.

Do I need to pre-arrange ski rental?

David: If you already know what you need and how long you need it for, it’s a great time saving idea to make a booking in advance. This way you have all your rental details pre-filled and when you arrive at the shop you can go straight to the fit-out process. If you are keen to be on the slopes promptly, it’s a great idea to get fitted out the afternoon before your rental starts. Then you can get fitted out at a relaxed pace and know that you are all kitted out and ready for the morning.

Nicola: If you aren’t sure what days you will rent for, don’t worry, you can still walk in without a reservation and we can sort you out on the spot.

YamaSport is located at Niseko Landmark View and Yama Shizen West.

Visit www.yamasportniseko.com.

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Fully Equipped Performance on the snow, style off it. And vice versa!

We’ve got all you shopaholics covered this winter with our guide to the best gear available to buy in Niseko.

LAB Niseko Balaclavas Protect your face from snow and wind with a LAB Niseko balaclava.

These are made with a stretchy, anti-static fleece material, double sided for extra warmth. Two colours available.

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Oakley Flight Deck Goggles Available in a variety of colours and lens types, Oakley’s Flight Deck goggles are inspired by the helmet visors of fighter pilots.

With a shape designed to maximise field of view and to seamlessly fit with most helmet types, these are perfect goggles for visibility and comfort in all conditions.

LAB Niseko Socks Merino Wool socks designed specifically for skiing and snowboarding will ensure a comfortable day on the slopes. Made in Japan with shock absorbing materials, ankle cushioning and support, the LAB Niseko socks are available in small, medium and large, and in two colourways.

LAB Niseko T-shirts Take home the perfect souvenir to remember your Niseko holiday with a high-quality LAB Niseko t-shirt.

Snowball Makers The must-have item for kids of any age to make snowballs in the wonderful Niseko snow. No cold hands, no wet gloves, just a bunch of easy-to-make perfectly-round snowballs to throw at dad!

Reusch Gloves A brand born in the Italian Alps and specialising solely on the manufacture of high-quality gloves, these are modern, elegant, made from full sheepskin leather with extra warm insulation and a supportive short cuff.

LAB Niseko Gloves LAB Niseko have used cutting-edge technology to create gloves made from a warm 4-way stretch fleece. These stylish, windproof and breathable gloves come with touchscreen finger pads enabling you to use your smartphone without getting your hands cold.

LAB Niseko Gogglesoc With a fun, distinctly Niseko design, these stylish and protective goggle covers are made from 88% recycled plastic bottles.

Perfect to avoid your goggles being scratched in your suitcase as you, reluctantly, head back home!

Niseko’s newest brand of mountain gear, LAB Niseko products are designed in Niseko for optimum performance in local conditions. Available exclusively at YamaSport Niseko.

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Warm Right Up, Ski Right Down Exercise physiologist and owner of Focus Physio, Daniel Dittmar, explains the importance of a good pre-ski warm up.

AS YOU PROGRESS through your ski holiday, you will likely be

able to feel the effects of the strenuous and intense exercise on your body daily as compared to your normal routine. The simple fact is, the fitter you are the less injuries you get and the more your body can keep up the minds desire to make the most of the best powder snow in the world!

We often see people get injured on the first day or so of their holiday because they don’t take care of pre-season conditioning and adequate warm up sessions before they hit the slopes.

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You can do some simple warm up exercises in your room before head to the mountain. If have all your winter gear and boots on, and you are on the snow, possibilities for an effective warm up are rather limited. This is why you see some fairly basic, warm up exercises at ski lessons, that too be frank, won’t do enough to prepare your body for the inevitable fall and demands on your muscles and joints.

It’s important to warm up and move your joints, in particular your hips and spine. These parts of your body are critical in facilitating good movement and absorbing force when you are upright and when you are not so upright (which is frequent for beginners). If they are not up to the task, when you fall the force goes to the joints which don’t tend to absorb forces well such as the knee, wrist and shoulder.

A suitable warm up improves circulation, raises the temperature of the muscles, lubricates the joints and will also help to alleviate the effects of yesterday’s session on the slopes.

For a simple warm up, try 10 each of the following: squats (as deep as you can comfortably go); lunges (front, back and side); and spine extension/upward dog.

For a more targeted and effective warm up or a stretch and release, book into our ski-conditioning class or a Pilates Reformer class. Enjoy!

Visit Focus Physio at The Maples. www.focusphysio.co.jp

Your Niseko holiday, your way With the largest range of accommodation in Niseko and exceptional service, Niseko Central can accommodate all of your needs and make your winter holiday an unforgettable experience.

ď‚• 0136 23 3503 ď€ƒ stay@nisekocentral.com

www.nisekocentral.com experienceniseko.com

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THE ART OF

Relaxation Become weightless, dissolve tension and heal your body, mind and spirit with this list of ways to pamper yourself in Niseko.

WORDS: KASHFIA AHMED

SOAK

SWIM

Each of Niseko’s mineral-rich natural onsens provides its own unique benefits. Try Kanronomori Onsen, which prides itself on being a heaven for relaxation, where the hot spring water is high in nitrate and slightly sulphuric, aiding relaxation and the relief of tension. Or Goshiki Onsen’s bathing pool which is high in sulfuric acid, magnesium, sodium and calcium to help soothe the skin and relax the muscles. Or enhance your skin with the special women-only mud bath at Yukichichibu Onsen.

Swimming is one of the best cardio workouts out there. Low impact and great for muscle relief and joint pain, enjoy a few laps in the Hotel Niseko Alpen swimming pool. Available for public access, visitors enjoy full rental facilities including swimsuits, goggles and caps. Open from 12 noon until 9.30 pm daily.

STRETCH A pleasant ritual for many people, stretching is a simple way to prevent and treat injuries.

Located in Aya Niseko, Powder Yoga is one of the best-known places for a warm and friendly yoga session. They offer daily public sessions in their beautiful studio space and offer private in-room sessions too.

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SWEAT Work up a sweat in one of Niseko’s local gyms. The M Hotel Gym and the Aya Niseko hotel gym offer great ranges of equipment and passes for nonhotel guests. The Kutchan gym is cheap and has a satisfactory range of equipment. And if you are looking for something more intense, try out Niseko Crossfit in Kutchan Town.

FLOAT

REFRESH

Ryko Spa at Skye Niseko hosts Hokkaido’s first float tank.

Experience weightlessness in a soundproof capsule filled with salt-water set at skin temperature. This therapy is ideal for exercise recovery, relieving stress and meditation. Ryko Spa’s facilities are open to both hotel guests and the public.

Pamper yourself with a refreshing facial in Niseko. Ryko Spa offers a range of incredible facials, skin and body treatments to relax and reinvigorate. Their Sodashi skin-care products restore the skin’s radiance and leave your skin looking more clear, lifted and firmed.

RELEASE For those looking to relax or needing a post ski recovery, there are many massage options available in Niseko. Highly qualified massage therapists at Ryko Spa, Hermosa Angel and Arigato Massage will soothe your muscles and freshen your mind in preparation for the next big day on the mountain.

NOURISH Hokkaido vegetables are famous world over for their freshness and mouth-watering flavour and many restaurants and cafes promote their use of local produce. If you are looking for some healthy food produced with tasty local produce then restaurants like Green Farm Café, An Dining and Kumo Restaurant are the places to go.

Clockwise from top left: Massage at Ryko Spa; enjoying a dip at Hotel Niseko Alpen; healthy produce at Kumo Restaurant; stretching out at Powder Yoga.

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Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

Winter 2019/20

You BEAUTY Niseko’s dry winter air, combined with long days on the mountain and long-haul flights, can make your skin a little lack lustre. Revitalise your skin and show it some love with unique, locally-made and inspired skincare.

WORDS: SOFIE LAHTINEN

We have hand-picked some of the best local beauty products featuring Hokkaido and Japanese ingredients, perfect to hydrate and soothe. Enjoy the skin benefits while you holiday in Niseko, or pick up a few treats for your loved ones back home. A little gift for yourself couldn’t hurt too, right?

Natural Products A boutique health and beauty company based in Hokkaido that produces face and body care products using only the finest natural, locally-sourced and chemical free ingredients. Their special ICHI series is handmade and uses raw, plant-based Hokkaido components. Available at Ryko Spa.

Body Butter ¥2,650 Maple Hand Cream ¥1,400

Siraca

Rosa Rugosa

This locally-grown and harvested skincare is created using natural, Hokkaido, white birch tree (shirakaba) sap. Harvested yearly around March and April, the sap contains saponin, flavonoids and vitamin C, as well as natural anti-inflammatory qualities, resulting in hydrated, super soft skin.

Available at Ki Niseko Gift Shop.

Try the organic skincare and cosmetics brand made in Urahoro-cho, Hokkaido, which use Japan’s native rugosa rose and other natural ingredients.

The line features no artificial colours, fragrances, mineral oils or parabens. Available at Ki Niseko Gift Shop.

Lotion ¥4,320 Essence ¥6,480 White Cream ¥5,400

Lotion ¥3,500 Milky Lotion ¥3,800 Hand Cream ¥2,200 Serum ¥4,400

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Hokkaido Ryouhin Launched nearly 20 years ago, this popular Hokkaido line sells around 100,000 products per year. Using Hokkaido herbs, as well and raw ingredients as much as possible, like Hokkaido’s famous summer lavender.

Available at Ki Niseko Gift Shop.

Lavender Body Soap ¥2,100

Sodashi Natural, and organic where possible, Sodashi’s ingredients are ethically sourced from around the world for their powerfully regenerative and therapeutic qualities. Uplift your mind, body and emotions during your travels with the Jet Lag products. The rich therapeutic plant essences of Peppermint and Spanish Rosemary strengthen mental clarity and refresh the skin and senses, easing the symptoms of jet lag! Available at Ryko Spa. Jet Lag Recovery Travel Kit (Recovery Mist & Gel) ¥7,300

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Sports Injury Management Reformer Pilates Ski/Board Conditioning

We’ll get you ready for the slopes.

We’ll deal with your aches & pains.

We’ll let you make the most of this winter.

The Maples Niseko Ground Floor Tel: +81 (0) 70 14778880 www.focusphysio.co.jp experienceniseko.com

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Local Beats WORDS: EVAN JOHNSON PHOTO: JUNICHIRO WATANABE

FROM THE WEATHER, to the produce. From the scenery, to the faces seen in town. Niseko’s four seasons vastly contrast.

For the last three years, local DJ Masaki ‘mfp’ Konagai has released a new mixtape every three months, using music to reflect the seasonal shift in weather, scenery and feeling in Niseko.

We caught up to discuss the ‘Niseko Vibes’ mixtape CDs, which he distributes to Niseko locals and visitors alike, for free.

How long have you been a DJ? I have been collecting records for over 20 years and started DJ’ing five years later. So, it’s been 15 years. Damn, that makes me feel like an old man!

What brought you to Niseko?

I was born and grew up in Osaka and studied in the US after high school before moving to Melbourne. My wife is from Sapporo though, so we always planned to come back to Hokkaido. I heard someone describe Niseko as “Little Australia”, I love Australia and living in beautiful country side was one of my dreams too. We moved here five years ago.

How did the Niseko Vibes mixtapes start?

When I first started DJ’ing in Niseko, I experienced many “requests” from the audience, mostly for commercial, top-40 stuff which I don’t really listen to or play in my set. Of course, I try my best to make everyone happy but it did make me realise that many people in Niseko are not the types to go to night clubs or music venues to discover amazing underground music. They didn’t know how to enjoy music they hadn’t heard before, it seemed they just wanted karaoke or a jukebox!

So, I started to think about it as an opportunity to give a free mixtape to expand peoples range of music. The mixtapes are great for people who don’t know where to start, or for people who have stopped discovering new music.

This also helps me now as people can recognise the music that I play when DJ’ing, so I can make my crowd happy!

What influence do the seasons have on the music on the mixtapes?

Since Niseko shows us such distinct seasons, I am influenced by its weather, scenery and the feeling that each season brings. Each edition has a different theme, but it has similarity in seasons. For 90 |

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example, Summer 2018 and Summer 2019 sound similar, but Summer 2018 and Winter 2018 are very different.

Songs carry different feelings that can be easily related to seasons, and some even carry names related to the seasons. I wouldn’t put “Everybody Loves the Sunshine” by Roy Ayers into the winter mixtape for example!

From a genre perspective, how does the summer mixtape differ from the winter mixtape?

It’s hard to explain in words but summer has a more happy, sunny, up-tempo, organic kind of sound, which includes genres like funk, Latin, Brazilian and reggae.

Winter is more calm, quiet, atmospheric and electronic, including some ambient, electronica and house music. I love to crossover genres, so spring and autumn span the entire scale and every mixtape has five or more different genres.

Why do you give away the mixtapes for free?

It’s a great cultural promotion for our town. If I’m traveling and find a free mixtape at a random cafe (and it sounds so good!), I would definitely take it, share it with my friends and encourage them to visit too.

Lately, many people tell me “I have all the mixtapes since the beginning!” or “I only had one old CD in my car and had been listening to it for ages. Your mixtapes have changed my driving life”.

This sort of feedback inspires me to keep creating.

It is such a beautiful thing for me to know that people who do not seem to care about music, are now starting to care and starting to discover more music on their own.

Where can we see you DJ in Niseko and do you play music from ‘Niseko Vibes’?

I regularly DJ at Bar Gyu+ aka The Fridge Door Bar and sometimes at Two Sticks and The House of Machines during winter season. It totally depends on the crowd but I don’t normally play the same type of music as on the mixtapes, because I need to make the place busy and get everyone to drink. Haha!

The Winter 2019/20 edition CD of Niseko Vibes is available at Sprout Café and Pyram Organics & Plants in Kutchan or Skye Niseko Café Deli in Hirafu. Visit mixcloud.com/pyramorganics to listen to all of the Niseko Vibes mixtapes.

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Your Best Year Yet A winter holiday in the powder capital of the world is certainly no excuse not to keep your New Year's resolution. So, no matter your clichéd ambitions for early 2020, take these tips from our comprehensive guide to making that resolution stick.

WORDS: EVAN JOHNSON

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MOVE MORE

You can get and stay fit while holidaying in Niseko in many ways. For starters, skiing and snowboarding serve as a great all body work-out.

For gym junkies, the brand-new Niseko Crossfit gym in Kutchan accepts drop-in guests for their regular group classes. The Kutchan Town gym is also a good budget option, is open most days and has a satisfactory range of equipment for a workout.

If swimming is your preferred method of exercise, the Niseko Alpen Hotel has a 25-metre lap lane pool open to both hotel guests and the public.

Yoga is a popular fitness activity in Niseko with a number of instructors offering regular classes.

Powder Yoga Niseko offers drop-in sessions as well as convenient one-week memberships, perfect to keep your core active and your mind zen while on holiday.

For something slightly less conventional, try a snowshoe tour with Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC) for a fun and gentle workout, all-the-while seeing some of Niseko’s best ‘off-the-beatentrack’ nature and scenery.

Healthy tofu steak at Kumo Restaurant (top); Cat Skiing (bottom) is a once-in-a-lifetime activity.

MORE FAMILY TIME

On the snow, a private skiing or snowboarding lesson through GoSnow is a great way for the whole family to spend a day skiing together, with private coaching from a qualified instructor ensuring that everyone improves and has the best day possible.

Another option is to hit the slopes with your own private photographer capturing all of the fun and frivolity of your day in famous Niseko powder. Local photographer Glen Claydon offers this private service and always leaves his guests satisfied with a great range of their own heroic family skiing shots. Hit up glenclaydon.com to find out more.

Off the snow, winter day tours to Hokkaido destinations such as Sapporo, Otaru, Lake Toya and Noboribetsu are great fun for all the family.

SkyExpress offers tailor-made day tours in comfortable vehicles with private drivers.

EAT HEALTHY SAVE SOME MOOLAH

There’s no better time to meet new people than when everyone is on holiday!

Saving money–it’s the quintessential New Year’s resolution and often the hardest to keep, especially while on holiday!

But there are ways to be thrifty while here in Niseko.

Many businesses are involved in discount card programs which give guests the chance to make the most of their holiday while saving some precious ‘yennies’ too.

Our very own Experience Niseko Passport Card is a great example. Available when you stay with a wide range of accommodations, this free card gets you discounts on some of Niseko’s best dining, activities, onsens, shopping, and even on car rental.

Find out more at experienceniseko.com/passport.

Another great option to save money is to simply pre-book. Many ski schools and rental stores, such as YamaSport, incentivise guests to pre-book with discounts of 10%. How easy is that?

TRY NEW THINGS

This great new year’s resolution aligns perfectly with a holiday in Niseko, because there is simply so much to see and do.

For adventure seekers, perhaps a cat-skiing tour in knee-deep powder with just your friends in the backcountry is the sort of once-in-a-lifetime activity that satisfies this resolution. Google ‘Niseko Weiss Powder Cats’ or ask your hotel concierge for info on one of the best local operators.

Or for something unique at a slower pace, Glass Doumo in Niseko Village offers a fun and interactive glass-blowing class where you can make your own glass souvenir.

Niseko is foodie-heaven but it doesn’t need to be a destination of gluttony. Hokkaido produce ranks among the best in the world, so simple, healthy meals here are often surprisingly delicious.

For fresh, real food, sourced from local farms, it’s hard to go past Niseko institution Green Farm Café, open for breakfast and lunch everyday throughout winter.

Kumo Restaurant is another restaurant with a local farm to fork philosophy. The seasonal menu contains traditional Japanese soul-foods served with a modern twist, and many lighter, healthy options.

For vegetarian food, few options compare to Prativo, a great restaurant set next to the famous Milk Kobo. Check out their affordable vegetable and salad buffet at lunch time.

Harvest Café in Kutchan focuses on creating a menu made of organic, additive-free, fresh ingredients. Healthy sandwiches are the staple and a range of green smoothies make sure you’ll leave feeling good about yourself!

MAKE NEW FRIENDS

There’s no better time to meet new people than when everyone is on holiday, in a good mood and doesn’t have to work in the morning!

Get into Niseko’s vibrant social scene and meet fellow tourists and locals alike. Some of the better spots for fun after dark include the cosy-littlewine-bar called Mick’s; the sophisticated cocktail lounge with regular live music, Musu; Tamashii, which shifts from fancy food spot to DJ lounge most evenings; and the famous Gyu+ bar which is hidden behind, of all things, a fridge door! experienceniseko.com

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Above: Simon climbing at NAC; Below: Kutchan Museum of Natural History

Off the Slopes with Kids

Originally from Kyoto, Yuko is the Editor of Experience Niseko's summer Japanese edition and is mum to Simon and Riki.

WORDS & PHOTOS: YUKO MIYAKE

I

F YOU'RE HERE in Niseko with children and wondering where you can go, and what you can do instead of spending time on ski slope, here is a short list of my favourite family-friendly places you can enjoy too.

As a part of Japanese culture, onsen (or hot spring) is a must try while you are in Japan. Most of the hotels have their own onsens but there are many different types of springs around the Niseko area so try a day onsen, with water containing rich minerals coming directly from the underground hot spring source.

It’s bit sad to say “see you” to the kids if they are a different gender to you and older than six years of age, but the experience for both you and your children is wonderful. Kiranoyu, a popular onsen right in front of Niseko station have private onsen as well (booking required), so if you like to enjoy onsen with your family alone, that would be perfect experience especially for onsen first timers.

Yugokorotei is another recommendation, a little further from Hirafu. This has an amazing outside bath using 100% natural hot spring water and they open from 6am to 12am so you can still enjoy a soak after spending time on the ski slope.

I would recommend you go in the daytime too as it’s so beautiful.

They also have a delicious pork cutlet lunch set with onsen ticket, and free refills for cabbage, rice and miso soup. Have lunch there, then enjoy soaking and relax. They are kid-friendly with additive-free soap, cribs for women’s changing room and baby chairs are also available. A spacious waiting room is good for the kids, too.

Only in more recent years has the Niseko area and Kutchan has recently become popular as in international ski destination, but its great Mother Nature and past life as a deep-snow district can be discovered at the Kutchan Museum of Natural History. This museum is to see, to touch and to be learnt. There are display areas that covers wild animals living in this area, tools and home appliance in old days and as well as the history of the iconic volcano, Mt Yotei.

NAC indoor climbing is another fun option within the Hirafu area. Even you are there for lunch or dinner at JoJo’s, you can casually try the indoor climbing without booking. There is a rope area and bouldering area, both of which are enjoyable for both beginners and experienced climbers. It’s great fun to see your kids climbing on the wall, trying to get from the ground floor to the second one at restaurant level.

Another hidden bit of fun is ice skating. An hour’s drive from Niseko, Tomarimura Ice Center Tomalink is an indoor skating rink that can enjoy through the year. Rental equipment (skate shoes, protectors and helmet) is available, so just put on your ski jacket, pants and gloves. It’s not a tourist spot, and more used by locals, so great for those who are looking for interaction with local people.

Kids will clearly remember for a long time after what they have experienced on their Niseko trip, especially the things with impact, whatever it is.

Play, taste, touch and seeing things, let children feel all the five senses. I would be happy if the children who experience Niseko never forget the memory of Niseko and come back when they become an adult for more memories.

Kid-friendly places to eat

F Seven Stars Café

F Guzu Guzu

F For climbing wall

Free kids space, menu

Free kids space

F Jojo’s

F Mandriano

adventures, visit www.nacadventures.jp

There are more and more in Niseko area every season.

Here are a few for you to try with the kids.

Free kids space, kids menu

Free kids space

F Trattoria Bleu Cielo

F Kumo Restaurant

Free kids space, kids menu

Diaper changing seat, kids chairs, private room

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Niseko

Rera New Chitose Airport

ROSSIGNOL RED Pantone 485 C

The flagship brand of Portland, Oregon-based outdoor company presents sportswear as well as affordable seconds and samples.

Descente Japan Ltd. presents sportswear combining history, tradition, high-tech function and sophisticated design.

ROSSIGNOL BLACK Pantone Black C

The only direct store of the Group Rossignol in Japan, enjoy men’s and women’s ski wear, ski gears and apparel.

Great range of performance Mountain Hardwear products created to empower outdoor athletes to live boldly.

Hokkaido’s largest-scale outlet mall Open 7 days a week 10:00 – 19:00

140 shops, restaurants and café

Free Wi-Fi

www.outlet-rera.com

Coin-operated lockers

Free Shuttle Bus from New Chitose Airport (every 30 min)

Rera website

Get around Niseko with ease.

With a fleet of vehicles ranging from sedans for up to four passengers, maxi taxis for up to nine passengers, and a luxury Alphard option, Sprint Taxi caters for all your needs.

Introducing convenient flat rate fares for resort areas this winter.

ď‚• 0136-55-5400 08:00 - 0:45

(06:00 - 08:00 available with pre-booking)

nisekotaxi.com

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Aside from skiing and snowboarding, Niseko has a variety of great on-snow activities available offering fun for all the family. Tick of your Niseko bucket list with some of these recommendations.

WORDS: KASHFIA AHMED

Clockwise from left: Touring Niseko’s mountain range; breathatking views from the gondola; snowshoeing across Niseko's fluffy powder snow.

CROSS COUNTRY TOURING

SNOWSHOEING

RIDE THE GONDOLA

Enjoy a tour of Niseko’s mountain range without the help of a chairlift! A private cross-country tour with Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC) is family-friendly, includes hire of cross-country skis and a guide to teach you how to do it.

Another activity where you can get out into the fluffy Niseko powder is snowshoeing–an experience you won’t want to miss. There is something particularly enchanting about being able to walk on powder snow and explore the frozen lakes of Niseko. NAC offers guided tours to Half Moon Lake and the Shiribetsu River. Day trips or night tours are available, and you can book them privately or as part of a group.

Enjoy breathtaking views of Mt Yotei from Mt Annupuri even if you are not skiing or snowboarding. Guests are allowed to take lifts up from Hirafu Gondola to take some memorable shots during their visit in Niseko. Non-skiing Gondola users can take the lift down as well.

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From top: White Isle Snowmobile Park; snow tubing at Hanazono; tree-trekking with NAC

PHOTOGRAPHY Photographer Glen Claydon has been shooting and safely guiding clients into the best locations around Niseko and across Hokkaido for years. Make your winter holiday memorable with the most amazing shots captured while you are doing your best tricks on the slopes.

SNOWMOBILING Located in Weiss snowfields, White Isle Snowmobile Park is a great place to try your hand at snowmobiling and offers a selection of tours in a range of times and locations. Guests are guided by professionals and get to choose between twin or single rides. They also offer high performance snowmobiles for people with expert abilities and hotel pick up is available.

SNOW BIKING Combine a snowmobile with a dirt bike and what do you get?

A snow bike! These bikes are lighter than snowmobiles and are able to climb and navigate unlike anything snow has even seen.

Experience snowbiking on a group or private tour with Niseko Snowbike Adventures.

SNOW RAFTING Niseko Village offers a different kind of thrill for all ages in Snow Rafting. Zip over the snowbanks and through the trees in a raft towed by an experienced snowmobile driver.

TREE-TREKKING Tree-trekking is one of the most popular year-round activities in Niseko. With five difficulty levels to choose from, explore many obstacles and fly through the trees on zip lines under the safe guidance of the team from NAC. 100 |

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TUBING Looking for a fun activity the whole family can enjoy? Well, tubing is great for both kids and adults. Hanazono Tube Park offers this unique and fun experience where you can choose to ride alone or with your friends and family. Located at the base of Hanazono, the park is easily accessible. They also offer a fun magic carpet ride.

IGLOO BUILDING Niseko Outdoor Center offers workshops on how to build an igloo from scratch. You can join with groups of two or more and can learn how to curve snow blocks and make snow homes.

Rescuing Holidays in Niseko since 2005.

Now bigger and better. ✔ 50% Bigger Space

✔ Over 14 years helping Niseko’s Skiers and Snowboarders

✔ Easy Parking and No-Step Entry ✔

✔ Zwift Cycle Training

Conveniently Located at M-Lodge Niseko

✔

✔ Commercial Treadmill

Sports and Remedial Massage

✔

Travel Insurance Claimable

✔ Snow-Sport Specific Rehab Gym

Australian Physios

(M-Lodge Niseko)

Tel: 0136-22-0399 M-Lodge Niseko, Yamada 170-136, Kutchan-cho www.nisekophysio.com

*We do not see fractures, dislocations or other serious injury. These conditions should go directly to Kutchan Hospital.

A S I A P H Y S I O N E T W O R K T O K Y O • N I S E K O • H A K U B A • N O Z A W A • MY O K O K O G E N • S I N G A P O R E • K U A L A L U M P U R

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The massive indoor climbing wall at Niseko Adventure Centre

ARISHIMA TAKEO MEMORIAL MUSEUM This museum was established in memory of the Japanese novelist Takeo Arishima. During the Taisho period (1912-1926), Arishima voluntarily gave away his land to peasants, allowing them to farm and build homes to live in free of rent. Grab yourself a coffee from the café in the museum and explore some of the novelist’s heritage. www.town.niseko.lg.jp/ arishima_museum

GLASSWORK WORKSHOPS

Indoor Fun

After all the action in the snow, keep yourself toasty with these great indoor activities. Whether it be cooking Japanese cuisine the way the locals do or appreciating spectacular art in quiet galleries, there’s plenty to do off the snow in Niseko.

WORDS: KASHFIA AHMED

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Located in Niseko Village, Glass Doumo showcases a variety of handmade glasswares. Join one of their sandblasting workshops where you can make your own glass trinket and take it home as a souvenir. www.glass-doumu.com

TEA CEREMONY AT SOMOZA Known locally as ‘sadō’ or ‘The Way of Tea’, a traditional Japanese tea ceremony is one of the most authentic Japanese experiences available in Niseko. Somoza Gallery is an art gallery and restaurant which hosts tea ceremonies. The venue also regularly features exhibitions by local artists and a wide variety of classes, workshops and events, all in a stunning old Japanese building set in the forest of Hanazono. www.somoza.jp

KEIYU NISHIMURA MUSEUM OF ART Niseko’s winter art scene is getting bigger with exciting exhibitions and galleries. This museum showcases the life of Keiyu Nishimura, a worldrenowned painter the nearby town of Kyowa. As the museum is located on the hill, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of rural landscapes while taking a tour. www.musee-nishimura.jp

INDOOR ROCK CLIMBING

KIYOE GALLERY

A massive indoor climbing wall adorns the Niseko Adventure Centre, stretching up through the second floor JoJo’s Restaurant and to the ceiling. There are lots of courses for beginners to experts and a bouldering area as well. You can enjoy a cold beer and a burger after climbing or while watching your friends too. www.nacadventures.jp

Niseko’s winter art scene is getting bigger with exciting exhibitions and galleries. Kiyoe Gallery Niseko provides a stage to the amazing artists in Hokkaido, showcasing their work and recommending contemporary art to visitors in Niseko. Enjoy events such as traditional Japanese Harp demonstrations, tea ceremonies and more. www.kiyoegallery.com

Clockwise from top: Kiyoe Gallery; ice cream making at Milk Kobo; tea ceremony at Somoza; Galerie RAM

COOKING CLASSES For Japanese people, Hokkaido is all about the food! Hokkaido is heaven for ramen, king-crab, soba noodles, wagyu beef, salmon sashimi, ice cream and many more. Make your own traditional Hokkaido feast with the expert chefs at the Niseko Outdoor Center. www.noc-hokkaido.jp/en

SHU OGAWARA MUSEUM OF ART This museum opened back in 1999 to honour the life and work of painter Shu Ogawara. It regularly hosts temporary displays alongside a permanent gallery of his work.

Enjoy and appreciate the creativity of Ogawara and a collection of work from prominent Hokkaido artists. www.town.kutchan. hokkaido.jp/culture-sports/ ogawara-museum

ICE CREAM MAKING Milk Kobo is one of the most famous shops in Niseko. Their cream puffs, cheese tarts and Hokkaido milk ice cream are a must try during your visit in Niseko.

They also offer workshops if you would like to try ice cream making yourself (appointment only). www.niseko-takahashi.jp

GALERIE RAM This gallery and art shop features the works of local Niseko iron artist, Masafumi Sawada, whose creativity is showcased in homes and hotels all over the Niseko region. The small gallery displays over 30 intricate sculptures and pieces created from steel by Sawada alone or in collaboration with other artists. facebook.com/nisekoram

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Put some mojo in your printing!

Full spectrum printing and design services in English.

From business cards to corporate brochures, we’ve got you covered.

And yes, we deliver to Niseko.

mojoprint.jp

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Email

Tel

Business hours

Address

info@mojoprint.jp

06-6539-1717

Mon–Fri 9am–6pm

550-0013 Osaka-shi, Nishi-ku, Shinmachi 3-5-7 2F

Winter 2019/20

Kojima Junji - 45g Photography

There's no place like Homes EXPERIENCE NISEKO

VOL. 3 WINTER 2019/20 experienceniseko.com

From a skiing perspective, Niseko is certainly one of the most exciting places on the planet right now. From design, development and investment perspectives, the same can be said.

Keep an eye out for our Experience Niseko Homes magazine for all the latest Niseko real-estate news.

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EXPERIENCE NISEKO Vol. 7 Summer 2019

Summer Edition

experienceniseko.com

Vol. 7 Summer 2019

Summer Escape

A destination this good all-year-round deserves more than just a winter magazine.

Look out for the green-season edition of Experience Niseko in summer 2020.

Discover Japan’s northern island summer oasis

Creek to Coast

Farm to Fork

Run to Paradise

Destination Niseko

Fresh local flavours

Frontier adventures

experienceniseko.com

Epic valleys & summits

Picture-perfect travels

+

Events, Restaurants & more

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