Experience Niseko Vol 6

EXPERIENCENISEKO.COM

VOL. 6 WINTER 2018-19

The Sweet Life MUST-TRY DESSERTS

FISH, FRIES & FONDUE NISEKO'S ECLECTIC FOOD SCENE

Ways to Wellness

SOAK, FLOAT, RELAX

Beauty OF THE Backcountry

KANPAI!

LOCAL NIGHTLIFE FAVOURITES

NEW FRONTIER THE NEW FACE OF ART IN NISEKO

PLUS! EVENTS, NEW GEAR & MORE

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 1

The New Level of Alpine Luxury

True ski-in ski-out luxury design and service in an unbeatable, breathtaking location—this is Skye Niseko.

Situated at the top of the village in world-famous Niseko, Japan, Skye Niseko plays host to its own day spa, onsen hot spring and new Hokkaido izakaya, Kumo Restaurant.

Open now. Be one of the first.

Time to Enjoy. enjoy@skyeniseko.com +81 (0) 136 55 5123 www.skyeniseko.com

Editor’s Note Everyone is talking about it. American business and media giant, Bloomberg this year headlined, “Hokkaido is Taking Over as the World’s Ultimate Ski Destination”, as we nodded our heads in unison.

Back in June, the UK’s The Telegraph, listed Niseko in “The Best Ski Resorts You’ve Probably Never Heard Of”, though we think you probably have heard of it.

As the snowiest and biggest resort in Hokkaido, and Japan for that matter, Niseko is at the heart of the worldwide Hokkaido fascination. With average yearly snowfall reaching around eight-humans high at 14 metres, the powder is just one part of the Niseko global snowstorm. Incredibly vast natural scenery, volcanic hot springs or onsen, exotically-fresh cuisine, and Japanese culture and hospitality combining with an international flavour, make Niseko foreign yet familiar.

Over the past decade, Niseko has seen immense growth, in both visitor numbers and the resort itself.

Hundreds of thousands of people now holiday in Niseko each year, both in winter and in summer, with more and more deciding to call it home too.

In our fourth winter edition, we delve deep into Niseko’s celebrated backcountry with local adventurists. We explore the ways to wellness off the mountain, including Hokkaido’s first “float tank” now in Niseko. We get a taste of Niseko’s eclectic and evergreen food scene as we sit down with some of the region’s most renowned chefs and restaurateurs. In this issue, we meet some of the faces, and the hearts, of Hokkaido’s winter crown jewel.

Famous first for snow, it’s also what’s underneath all the powder that really has us hooked.

Whether it’s your twentieth time in Niseko, your very first or it’s your dream, bucket-list destination, once you visit you simply won’t want to leave, and if and when you do, you might just be raving about it too.

SOFIE LAHTINEN

EXPERIENCE NISEKO Vol. 6, Winter 2018-19 www.experienceniseko.com Published by HTM KK, 91-1 Aza Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081, Japan Advertising Enquiries: contact@experienceniseko.com Cover photo: Chris Pickering

FOLLOW US experienceniseko This magazine was published with the assistance of a national government grant from the Ministry of Tourism’s program supporting regional tourism brand development.

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CONTENTS Niseko News 6 Event Guide 10 Love Niseko 12 The Big Bang 14 Fish, Fries & Fondue 20 Kanpai! 28 Farm to Flame 30 The Sweet Life 32 The Nightlife is Lit 36 Small Town, Big Snow 38 The Beauty of the Backcountry 44 How Skis are Made 50 Peak Condition 56 What to Wear Backcountry 58 Ways to Wellness 60 Breathe In, Ski Out 62 Body Work 64 Float Away 66 Powder Paradise 68 Snow All Out 74 Go Off Snow 76 Get Soaked 78 Starting From Zero 80 A Work of Art 82 The New Frontier 84 All That Jazz 88 Trail Map 90 Village Map 92

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 5

NISEKO NEWS A round up of what’s turning heads in Niseko

JOINING FORCES This year, Niseko United has proudly partnered with global lift pass programs Mountain Collective and Ikon Pass. Both of these programs offer access to dozens of ski resorts worldwide, all on one well-priced season pass. Programs such as this are making once-in-a-lifetime, round-the-world ski trips more realistic for skiers and snowboarders alike.

SKYE’S THE LIMIT Skye Niseko’s long-awaited opening is this winter. The fully ski-in ski-out hotel sets a new benchmark for alpine luxury in Niseko. Conveniently located at the Hirafu Welcome Centre, a regular village shuttle ensures that guests can get wherever they need to go quickly and easily. Skye Niseko also plays host to its own café deli, day spa and new Hokkaido izakaya, Kumo Restaurant.

WELCOME KUMO RESTAURANT Japanese soul-food by day, a dazzling Hokkaido izakaya by night, Kumo Restaurant opens its doors for the first time in December. Head Chef Kiyoshi Burgess draws on his experience in famous Japanese restaurants in Tokyo, London and Australia to bring you an exciting menu of locally sourced, modern Japanese meals. Located at Skye Niseko, keep an eye out for their complimentary shuttle.

THE MAPLES NISEKO ARRIVES With ski-in ski-out access and an entrance on Hirafu’s main street, few locations rival the brand-new The Maples Niseko for convenience.

Combine this with a range of impressive apartments and penthouses and The Maples gives guests more options for accommodation in Niseko.

PANORAMA OPENING The first six of 12 Panorama Niseko villas open this winter. Located on the outskirts of Hirafu on the banks of the Shiribetsu River, the luxurious Panorama Niseko offers guests a free shuttle service, a Japanese-French fusion restaurant and unparalleled views of Mt Yotei. The remaining six villas will open in December 2019.

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Kumo Restaurant

HOW VERY CONVENIENT A brand new 7-Eleven convenience store opens in Niseko this winter. Situated at the Yamada intersection between Kutchan and Hirafu, the 7-Eleven is in the new Crossroad building which also contains a car rental store, ski rental store and two restaurants.

SOMETHING NEW AT LAVA LOUNGE Exciting news this winter with Lava Lounge extending their menu and adding an allnew cocktail list. Their famous pizzas will still be available but bar snacks and other non-pizza mains will be added. Expect later opening hours and a more loungey, cocktail vibe.

Aruku-zaka St

Skye Niseko

Park Hyatt, Hanazono

UNDER CONSTRUCTION Setsu Niseko, by renowned Singapore developer SC Global Developments, is under way. The ‘luxury condominium hotel residence’ is set to open in 2021. Aozara is a new hotel with commercial spaces at the Hirafu intersection and is due for completion in winter 2019.

One of the largest and most ambitious projects in planning is Aruku-zaka Street, a thriving residential condominium, hotel and retail precinct, complete with community gathering spaces, cafes, restaurants and office spaces.

Construction is well under way at The Park Hyatt, Hanazono too, with opening scheduled for December 2019.

Ki Niseko

WORLD SKI AWARDS 2018

MOVERS & SHAKERS

This year, Niseko’s accommodation providers have won several awards at the World Ski Awards. Ki Niseko has won Japan’s Best Ski Boutique Hotel; the ski-in ski-out hotel is home to a mineral-filled onsen and fresh Hokkaido fare at An Dining.

Providing an ultra-luxury chalet experience, Hakuchozan has won Japan’s Best Ski Chalet. The awards recognise organisations that are leaders in their field.

Rhythm Summit and the ever-popular Green Farm Café are making way for a brand-new development at the Hirafu intersection location. But fear-not loyal customers, as both have moved only a few hundred metres away. Find Rhythm Summit next door to Niseko Realty, on the street above the main Rhythm store.

And find the new Green Farm Café in the Shiki building.

Lava Lounge

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 7

Doorstep access to Niseko’s world famous snow

Perhaps it’s the breathtaking views of Mt. Yotei.

Or Chef Shinichi’s delicious Hokkaido cuisine.

Maybe it’s the thrill of world-class skiing.

Or the unforgettable personal service.

Ski-in ski-out at Japan’s Best Ski Boutique Hotel and experience the magic of winter in Niseko.

www.kiniseko.com 8 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Tailored, private, door-to-door airport transfers and more.

Ride in style with our current model vehicles including Mazda CX-8, Alphard and Toyota Hi-Ace. As the most experienced provider of transportation in Hokkaido dedicated to serving international visitors, you can rest assured you’re in good hands with us.

Day Tours

Transfers

Bus Hire

Best Rates

See Hokkaido’s best sights, your way, with a private tailored tour.

Door-to-door private transfers between New Chitose Airport, Niseko, Sapporo and more.

Discover Hokkaido in comfort with a chartered vehicle and driver, and your own itinerary.

Book direct with us and enjoy guaranteed best prices.

Book online at skyexpress.jp  0136-555-601  info@skyexpress.jp EXPERIENCE NISEKO 9

Yukitopia Snow Festival

Event Guide

A fun-filled calendar of events suggest that this winter in Niseko might just be the biggest yet.

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Find out more online at www.experienceniseko.com/events

STAR-LIT SKIING The on-slope action doesn’t end when the sun goes down here in Niseko. Under powerful floodlights, four chairlifts operate right through to 8:30 pm, so be sure to give night-skiing a go this winter.

Venue: Niseko United Dates: 11 December 2018 – 20 March 2019 Time: 4:30pm – 8:30pm Details: www.niseko.ne.jp

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There’s something for everyone celebrating the New Year in Niseko. The nightlife will be buzzing and there’s free night skiing until 11:15pm in Annupuri. Join the torchlight skiing at Grand Hirafu just before midnight, while a firework display lights the winter sky just after 12. And for early risers interested in a lucky Japanese tradition, there’s a special gondola ride at 6am on New Year’s Day to see the first sunrise of the year over Mt Yotei.

Venue: All of Niseko Dates: 31 December 2018 Time: Varies by event

SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL Night Skiing

SANTA CLAUS IS COMING TO TOWN Dreaming of a white Christmas? Well they don’t come any whiter than in Niseko, the ‘powder capital of the world’. Santa Claus himself will visit all four resorts so make sure you keep an eye out for him, Rudolph and the crew!

Venue: All of Niseko Dates: 20 – 25 December 2018 Time: Varies by event

BRING IN THE NEW YEAR NISEKO-STYLE

Santa comes to Niseko

The annual festival takes place in three locations in Sapporo and is the city’s most famous tourist drawcard. For good reason, too! The citizens of Sapporo, as well as invitees from around the world, display ice and snow sculptures which are just as intricate as they are enormous. This year the festival celebrates its 70th anniversary so it’s a must-do in February.

Venue: Sapporo - Odori Park, Tsudome and Susukino Area Dates: 31 January – 11 February 2019 Time: All day Details: www.snowfes.com/english

Sapporo Snow Festival

LAKE SHIKOTSU ICE FESTIVAL The locals of Lake Shikotsu boast that its waters are the clearest of any lake in Japan. So, what better reason to visit than during their annual ice festival when that water is used to create spectacular ice sculptures. Less busy than the Sapporo Snow Festival but equally awe-inspiring, the festival also features water illuminations, an ice-slide and fireworks.

Venue: Lake Shikotsu Waterfront Dates: 26 January – 18 February 2019 Details: www.welcome-to-chitose.jp/ ivent/3640.html

Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival

OTARU SNOW LIGHT PATH

YUKITOPIA SNOW FESTIVAL

For over 20 years the Otaru Snow Light Path has attracted visitors looking to relax and reflect at this distinctly Japanese festival. For nine days in February, the already beautiful Otaru Canal will play host to countless candles in glass floats, gently drifting down the river. Also expect to see ice sculptures, light displays and monuments at this peaceful and romantic event.

Venue: Otaru Dates: 8 – 17 February 2019 Time: Evening Details: www.yukiakarinomichi.org

The Yukitopia or “Snowtopia” Festival is an annual tradition in Niseko’s neighbouring town of Kutchan, only a 15-minute drive from the resort. The colourful two-day event, held at the Asahigaoka Ski Hill in Kutchan Town, features a range of family-friendly activities with free rides, games, contests, entertainment, food stalls and more.

Venue: Asahigaoka Ski Hill, Kutchan Town Date: February Details: www.town.kutchan.hokkaido.jp/ tourism/yukitopia-festival

Otaru Snow Light Path

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 11

Love Niseko Singaporean holiday-makers, Joyce and James, got engaged on the slopes of Niseko with GoSnow this past winter. We caught up with them recently to see how the love birds are getting on.

INTERVIEW: SOFIE LAHTINEN Had you both been to Niseko before?

James: It was our first time in Niseko and we would love to visit this beautiful town again.

Joyce, did you have any idea James was going to propose in Niseko?

Not at all! I had a feeling he might propose in 2018 but I certainly did not expect it to be so soon and definitely not while I was trying to keep myself from rolling down the slopes!

James, why did you choose Niseko for your grand gesture?

I knew from the start I just had to propose in Japan, it’s our go-to place for holidays; we simply adore this country. Since we had never been to Hokkaido before, I thought it would be a lovely idea to surprise Joyce on this trip.

What did you love most about being in Niseko as a couple?

There were so many! For starters, watching the snowfall for the first time as native Singaporeans born on an evergreen sunny island; being in a community of dedicated

12 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

snowboarding instructors who planned my surprise proposal (hello??!); sipping on a hot pot of sukiyaki amidst the snowcovered village; and sharing an onsen together with a view of the mountain slopes!

Recommended most romantic place in Niseko?

James: We were extremely fortunate to book an accommodation on the highest floor of Yumoto Niseko Prince Hirafutei, overlooking the bustling snow slopes (where we had our snowboarding lessons).

To us, that was the most romantic place.

So, when are you getting married?

James: We got solemnized this past October!

Our wedding banquet is scheduled for March 23rd, 2019.

Where will the honeymoon be (Niseko!?)

Joyce: Niseko and Saas-Fee, Switzerland!

Niseko! When?

We have not decided yet but it will have to be during the winter season for sure!

Hopefully soon because I’m itching to snowboard again.

James, what hot tips would you give people thinking of proposing on the ski field?

I would think if you can ski, it will open up to a plethora of other options, for example, skiing to her and proposing. I couldn’t, well at least not that well, so I waited at the base for her (laughs).

Have a plan. I was simply fortunate to have Nika (our GoSnow instructor) who single handedly planned the surprise for me. So yes, either have a plan, or have Nika.

Assign good buddies to take nice pictures and videos of the proposal.

Flowers aren’t really sold in winter, so you really have to hunt for them if you will like to use them for your proposal. Nika and I had to pilfer the streets at night for those precious few stalks.

Enjoy the moment and make sure your partner has her ski mask off before you propose. You don’t want to propose to the wrong partner, believe me.

Niseko

Rera New Chitose Airport

ROSSIGNOL RED Pantone 485 C

The flagship brand of Portland, Oregon-based outdoor company presents sportswear as well as affordable seconds and samples.

ROSSIGNOL BLACK Pantone Black C

Descente Japan Ltd. presents sportswear combining history, tradition, high-tech function and sophisticated design.

The only direct store of the Group Rossignol in Japan, enjoy men’s and women’s ski wear, ski gears and apparel.

Great range of performance Mountain Hardwear products created to empower outdoor athletes to live boldly.

Hokkaido’s largest-scale outlet mall Open 7 days a week 10:00 — 19:00

140 shops, restaurants and café

Free Wi-Fi

Coin-operated lockers

Free Shuttle Bus from New Chitose Airport (every 30 min)

The lowest fare bus between Sapporo and New Chitose Airport via Rera Adult ¥800 (one way) + Gift (¥500 Rera shopping ticket) Kids under 13 years: ¥500 / Kids under 6 years: Free To book: 011-207-8600 (9:30am — 9:30pm) Management: ZERO PLANNING Co. Ltd Bus info

Rera website

www.outlet-rera.com

The Big Bang

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WORDS: EVAN JOHNSON TRANSLATIONS: YUKO MIYAKE PHOTOGRAPHY: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

Since December 1986, Bang Bang restaurant owners Masanobu and Toshiko Saito have been delighting Niseko holiday-makers and locals alike with world-class Japanese cuisine and a genuine izakaya dining experience on Niseko’s main street, Hirafu-zaka.

Skiers themselves, the Saitos moved to Niseko in the early 1980’s to be as close to the snow as possible. Masanobu worked in a seasonal position at Niseko Kogen Hotel before starting his own restaurant a year later.

“There were a lot of Japanese skiers coming here, but they spent most of their time in their hotel rooms,” Masanobu says. “The local workers though, had very few places to have a good time with good food. So, I decided to open an izakaya—more for staff than for tourists at the time.”

And that’s when Bang Bang began. The restaurant name is a play on the typical western pronunciation of the word konbanwa which is Japanese for ‘good evening’ or ‘good night’. “Bang Bang is open from evening until night, so the concept is to repeat ‘konbanwa’ twice. Bang. Bang,” Masanobu explains.

After 15 years successfully running the one restaurant, and growing through Niseko’s boom as a ski resort, an opportunity arose in 2000 for the Saitos to purchase the building next door and create what is now their sister restaurant, Bang Deux.

“At the time, there was a “café boom” in Japan. The big chains like Starbucks began to appear in Japan, so we began Bang Deux as a café. The original Bang Bang was over capacity every night in winter and our café guests kept asking for the Bang Bang menu! So, we decided to operate the same menu out of both restaurants,” he says.

The husband and wife make the perfect team. He with his confident yet understated calmness, and her with an infectious sense of enthusiasm and a smile from ear-to-ear.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 15

IT’S VERY IMPORTANT FOR ME TO USE HOKKAIDO PRODUCE. I LIKE CUSTOMERS TO TRY HOKKAIDO FOODS.

They’ve kept a largely unchanged menu for their entire existence, grounded on carefully selected, Hokkaido-sourced fresh and seasonal seafood, grilled meats and vegetables from local farms. “It’s very important for me to use Hokkaido produce. I like customers to try Hokkaido foods,” Masanobu says.

Each year, they add just a few new dishes to keep surprising their highly valued returning guests. Such is Masanobu’s confidence in his menu that, when asked to name a signature dish, he replied “you must try them all.”

Their attention to detail isn’t limited to the menu though. The owners train their wait staff to seat their guests in a certain way within the restaurant each night. “We try to mix the nationalities when seating foreign guests. For example, if I have Japanese groups, Chinese groups and Australian groups, we try not to place them next to the same nationalities as much as possible,” Masanobu says.

“Suppose if I went to Paris and I was placed amongst only Japanese groups in a restaurant, I would be very disappointed.”

He thinks little touches like this are part of the reason guests keep coming back every year. That and the food of course. “Well, that’s maybe not for me to say, but should be said by others.”

IN A RESORT WHICH HAS, THROUGH ITS SUCCESS, become more westernised, Bang Bang feels like a real, authentic taste of Japan, both literally and metaphorically. “Niseko is such a modern resort town these days, with new buildings arriving every year. I plan to keep our older style restaurant as it is. I hope the warm, homely feeling will keep attracting visitors from both Japan and other countries.”

Their team is made up entirely of Japanese staff, which adds to the authenticity. “I am sure my guests appreciate the Japanese culture and custom, rather than a westernised customer service experience,” he explains.

It’s a team who benefit from the owner’s theory that everyone in Niseko should enjoy the lifestyle. “We focus on work when it’s time to work, and rest when it’s time to rest. That keeps us healthy, mentally and physically, and leads to better customer service.”

That theory sure seems to be working. Tables at both Bang Bang and Bang Deux are booking out months in advance.

“We take online bookings and by email, as well as walk-ins when there is a cancellation, but I would recommend you book in advance to reserve a table,” Masanobu warns.

“We look forward to welcoming new customers from all over the world this winter, and look forward to seeing our regular customers again too.”

After 32 years serving guests from all over the world, the charming Masanobu and his friendly wife Toshiko have learned to speak more than enough English to easily hold a conversation.

But that doesn’t matter all that much, the food at Bang Bang speaks for itself.

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Check table availability at www.nisekobangbang.com

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 17

MS A GR FOR !

O PR BLE SON W A A NE AIL 9 SE AV 1 8 - 1 20

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Great Value Lessons, Priceless Memories Whether you’re a first-timer, an experienced powder-hound or just looking for safe and professional instruction for the kids, GoSnow has you covered.

LESSONS, GUIDING & WORKSHOPS • PRIORIT Y LIF T LANES 2 BASE LOCATIONS • 3 MAGIC CARPE TS FOR BEGINNERS

204 Aza Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081, Japan

www.gosnowniseko.com EXPERIENCE NISEKO 19

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Fish, Fries

&Fondue

HOW A CHANGING PALATE IS SHIFTING NISEKO’S THRIVING FOOD SCENE WORDS: SOFIE LAHTINEN TRANSLATIONS: YUKO MIYAKE

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 21

T

here are three main ingredients flavouring Niseko’s food culture: the landscape, the lifestyle and the people. If food represents culture, then Niseko is a slice of the world pizza, served piping-hot, unexpectedly, in Japan’s rural rugged north. The uniqueness and diversity of Niseko that its food culture reveals have been in the slow-cooker for some time.

If wine is from France, tea from Britain and meat pies synonymous with Australia, then sushi is surely Japan. In a recent article

by American news media, CNN, Japan made the cut for the top 10 countries with the best food. It really is impossible to eat badly in Japan. The Japanese apply the same precision to their food as they do to their engineering and the same beauty they bring to their art.

Situated nearby the Sea of Japan, home to the fattiest tuna and one of the richest oceanic environments in the world, eating the freshest sashimi on the planet is standard in Niseko. But Niseko is more than raw fish and steamy, salty ramen—it’s home to a smorgasbord of cuisine, but it hasn’t always been.

THE FIRST BITE Yuichi Kamimura, Chef & Owner of Michelin-starred restaurant, Kamimura, has seen Niseko’s food evolution since he first opened his restaurant in Niseko in 2007. “My friends in Sapporo said don’t go there [Niseko], it’s at its peak now. They kept saying that to me. That was 11 years ago,” Kamimura says.

Kamimura grew up watching his parents run the family steakhouse in central Hokkaido’s city of Ashaikawa and never dreamt of being a chef, let along running an award-winning restaurant. At aged 18, Kamimura spent five years gallivanting and soaking up American culture in Seattle and

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New York before returning home and getting a chef’s license.

A working holiday visa in Australia with his wife-to-be saw him hone his culinary skills over the next five years under world-renowned chef, Testsuya Wakuda, in Sydney. Completely inspired by his teacher’s mastery, Kamimura returned to Japan to open his own restaurant in Sapporo, before the opportunity revealed itself in Niseko.

Touted as ‘modern French’ by the Michelin Guide, Kamimura was at the forefront of fine dining in Niseko and while foreign development was already underway in the area, the market was too young.

Being told in the beginning his cuisine was too expensive, Kamimura, who’s dishes are centred on Hokkaido-produce, says the restaurant has since grown into its own skin and found its customer base, mostly with foreigners.

FOR ME, I FEEL REALLY COMFORTABLE HERE. IT’S A GOOD MIX OF JAPANESE, AUSTRALIAN, AND A BUSINESS PERSPECTIVE FROM ASIA TOO.

Left: Yuichi Kamimura, Chef & Owner of Michelin-starred restaurant, Kamimura

“My first two years [of the restaurant] 90% of my guests were Australian because of how good the Australian economy was. Everyone was looking where to invest, invest, invest. The economic crisis happened and the Australian economy just went down; one Australian dollar was 100 Japanese yen and then one dollar become 50 yen,” Kamimura explains.

The demise of the economy Down Under saw local businesses look to Asia and in came the investors starting with Hong Kong, and it hasn’t stopped. Naturally, this foreign influx continues to shape Niseko—something Kamimura has welcomed personally and professionally.

“For me, I feel really comfortable here. It’s a good mix of Japanese, Australian, and a business perspective from Asia too,” Kamimura explains.

“The buildings here, you won’t see this kind of architecture in any other part of Japan. This is kind of fun for me. It used to be just natural, mountains, rural and nature but now you still see the nature plus the latest architectural design from the world. It’s all connected now.”

“As with design, food and restaurants are the same.

I can do the mountain life and at the same time, I can be inspired by the things I like [here]. I think it’s this great mix that makes this place so special, of course, we have the snow too,” he says.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 23

Odin’s Executive Chef and French expat Thibaut Eulry, is behind the menus for The Alpinist as well Musu and Koko

WORLD FLAVOURS Niseko’s food diversity begins at ground-level with bohemian street-food served hot, to cold hands from the small windows of parked vans in Hirafu village.

Indian curries, Greek kebabs, British fish and chips and Hokkaido cheese tarts are all on the menu, providing a cheap way to warm-up and get full.

Wandering downtown, Odin Place has become a cornerstone of Niseko’s multi-flavoured food culture.

The three-storey food and retail hub houses five food and beverage outlets: French bakery, Koko; après ski bar and bistro, Musu; alpine restaurant, fittingly The Alpinist; local craft beer house, The Taproom; and up-market Japanese restaurant, Sushi Wakatake.

Hailing from France and having worked as a chef in Australia, New Zealand and in Michelin-star restaurants in Paris, Odin’s General Manger, Jean Laven, says that while guests want to experience Japanese cuisine in Niseko, variety is a good thing.

“You’ve got izakaya, sushi and ramen though people don’t want to eat that every day, so they like to switch and have a different option,” Laven explains.

A diverse range of taste-buds is increasingly evident.

Since opening in November 2016, Laven has seen an increasing number of guests from Hong Kong and Singapore with a lessening Aussie crowd.

In the summer, the “new” Southeast Asians, those from the Philippines and Malaysia, are also visiting to see what the fuss is all about.

It turns out cheese is a fairly universal favourite, with The Alpinist packed throughout the winter season.

Serving authentic Swiss fondues, raclettes, crepes and

24 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

other comfort-foods, it’s a cozy place with the snow falling and crackle of the open fireplace.

“In the afternoon, after skiing, people come in for galettes, something quick and easy, 20-30 minutes and you’re in and out, then you can go back on the slopes,” Laven says.

The Alpinist menu brings a little piece of Europe to Niseko with the menu comprising two parts of France: the galette from Brittany on the west side and cheese, like raclette and fondue, from the Alps.

Odin’s Executive Chef and French expat Thibaut Eulry, is behind the menus for The Alpinist as well Musu and Koko.

“I am using some Gruyère for the cheese fondue and it all comes from Japan. The Gruyère is from Switzerland but they import huge amounts into Japan and process it here. And then there is mozzarella, Pont-l’Évêque and more,” Eulry explains.

The cuisine invites everybody to share and come together—the kind of food that makes holidays. Honing his culinary career across the globe including France, Tokyo, New Zealand and Australia, before first landing in Niseko six years ago, Eulry says it’s the intimacy of the dining that keeps people coming back.

“If you get the big piece of raclette for four it’s really a one kilo piece of cheese that everybody shares. You need to melt it down and take the melting pot and turn it round, one after the other,” he explains.

“It’s the experience when you get into the restaurant, the design of it, especially in winter. When you’ve had a cold day on the ski field and you come here at night it’s very warm and welcoming when there is the fire running into the chimney. There’s an intimate feeling.”

Niseko’s place on the world ski resort stage does however put its restaurateurs into a pressure-cooker. With more visitors each year and more tastes to satisfy, the challenge grows for local businesses to keep Niseko competitive.

“I would say the standard [in Niseko] is pretty high. It’s getting higher and it’s going to have to. Businesses need to get more and more professional than they were, for example, six years ago where you could still make money out of a business that wasn’t professional. But now, the expectations and customers have more money so they expect a higher standard of services,” Eulry points out.

A JAPANESE ART One-level up, high-end Japanese sushi establishment, Sushi Wakatake, has over ninety-nine-percent of its clientele from overseas, according to Head Chef, Hiroyuki Namekawa. New to Niseko, Namekawa opened the restaurant for winter 2016/17 together with Sapporo retailer, Ikeuchi Group, and was very surprised, expecting more Japanese customers.

“At first, everything was new to me, so I got little upset, but at the same time I was happy to find out how much Japanese food cultures were popular with international guests. Every night I served food to people from around the world, and I almost forgot what nationality I was,” Namekawa laughs.

Originally from Sapporo, Namekawa worked for Prince Hotel for around 20 years, before opening his soon-to-become famous Maruyama, in Sapporo. An exciting opportunity arose to begin a new chapter in Niseko and the first winter season was an eye-opener for the renowned Japanese chef.

“I have been inspired by my wealthy, well-travelled guests. They have so many gourmet experiences. Some say ‘I have had dinner in Ginza, Tokyo, last night and here I am.’ It’s very challenging but it’s worthwhile and enjoyable for me at the same time. I would like to make those gourmet-experienced people feel satisfied by my sushi,” he says.

Around seventy-percent of Wakatake’s guests are Asian with uni or sea urchin their favourite item on the menu. Amongst international guests at large, toro or fatty tuna is most popular. Namekawa knows that most foreigners know and like modern, casual sushi rolls, like “California rolls” seen on sushi trains out-of-Japan.

Avocado, cream cheese, smoked salmon and other forbidden ingredients would never be used or uttered by traditional sushi chefs.

Namekawa believes freshness and healthiness are the main reasons foreigners seek out sushi. As for Japanese cuisine all-in-all, he thinks compared to other

world food flavours, it has more variety in taste, naturally.

“The Japanese are good at focusing on pulling out the flavour of the produce with little seasoning. That probably would attract international guests to Japanese food,” Namekawa explains.

Around eighty-percent of the fish used at the restaurant is from Hokkaido with the aim to serve the freshest seafood from the Sapporo morning market.

To Namekawa, “traditional” sushi is consistent sushi; the same quality presented each time a customer returns.

“You might feel that want to go back [to Wakatake] to taste again that specific dish you liked the most during your trip once you get home, that’s my aim. I want people to remember my sushi after their holiday and want to make them come back.”

Above: Sushi Wakatake Top: Head Chef, Hiroyuki Namekawa Photos by Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 25

Ebisutei Owner & Head Chef, Shingo “Cap” Sugiyama

SERVING UP A STORM Only taking reservations one month in advance each winter, local Japanese icon, Ebisutei, is one such restaurant that keeps people’s mouth-watering for more, and proves the power of word-of-mouth. The casual Japanese pub or izakaya, opened in 2007; a dream realised by Owner & Head Chef, Shingo “Cap” Sugiyama.

Cap first visited Niseko when he was 18 for the reason most do—to seek out the famous powder snow to ride. Coming north from Tokyo, where he was born and built his culinary and hospitality career, Cap took the reins of 30-seat Ebisutei, previously izakaya, Irori.

Equivalent to a western pub’s Sunday roast or bangers and mash, Ebisutei’s Japanese soulful home-dish is the oden pot dish, designed for communal devouring—most popular with Asian visitors being already familiar with shared eats. Foreigners from the west much rather having their own dishes like teriyaki chicken and paying separately, as Cap has observed over the years.

“The most popular dish really depends on the nationality and their customs.

Everybody likes sake though!” Cap assures.

For the quintessential izakaya experience, Cap recommends ordering five fool-proof dishes: a salad, vinegar mackerel, a hero fish selection, fried tofu and rice. This is the standard order at any izakaya in Japan.

“On our menu, the percentage of meat and fish are about half and half. That’s pretty much the same ratio compared to other areas like Tokyo. But we have fresh fish, and most of the fish is from Hokkaido,” Cap says.

GOING GREEN The prevalence of veganism and vegetarianism hasn’t gone unnoticed either, with lots of requests for these menu items over the years. Not to mention allergy-friendly and gluten-free requests also on the rise. Currently, the Ebisutei menu is remaining traditional with vegetarians opting for tempura vegetables and udon noodles, however vegans have less option with fish broth used in dishes like the fried tofu.

“I think that could be future topics of discussion for all the restaurant owners in the Niseko area because the more requests we get the more we will need to show how we can cater for higher demands to make those people satisfied and happy,” Cap says.

“This is one of the Niseko’s unique aspects. I have never seen any other places like Niseko in Japan.”

The challenge of special dietary requests has been felt across the board with Sushi

26 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Wakatake and Musu both adapting their menus to cater. Sushi Wakatake has prepared gluten-free items for winter and wagyu shabu shabu for guests who can’t eat raw fish or shellfish.

Over at Musu, the changes have already been in play since last winter. “For breakfast, lunch and dinner, pretty much half of each of the menus are vegan, vegetarian or gluten-free because of the demand. After the first year, we split the menu and now we have no more requests,” Laven explains.

One such ingredient, that in theory, should make most happy is the humble potato. But not just any potato. If the Kutchan potato wasn’t famous enough, enter “the 540 potato”. Aged for 540 days, around 20 tonnes of potatoes are stored in air-conditioned comfort in Kutchan Town.

THE ROARING FIVE-FORTIES This year’s crop of five-forties is popping up on many menus around Niseko including at Kamimura, Ebisutei and new Kumo Restaurant.

“Winter there is only one [key ingredient]: potato! Seriously the two-yearold potato is amazing. It’s a very special thing in this area. It will be more and more famous from now on,” Kamimura says.

A little trick on Mother Nature means the extended “winter” turns the potato’s starch content to sugar content. This means sweeter and sweeter, day after day.

Kamimura likes to do less, choosing a simple poaching method followed by skin

removal, a touch of olive oil and salt, or butter or soy sauce depending on the mood.

Mostly though, Niseko’s chefs work with nature. Deciding dishes day-to-day, seasonto-season—this connection to the local landscape is the undercurrent to Niseko’s food culture and unique flavours.

“Most of the restaurants use Niseko’s local produce and that’s one of the attractive points to make Niseko’s food scene so special. In a major city like Tokyo, you could also get great food and even the same fish and vegetables made in Hokkaido. But the freshness is different. You can’t get fish caught at Iwanai or Suttsu this morning if you were in Tokyo,” Cap says.

Keeping it local while embracing the undeniable international influence seems to be the overriding goal for Niseko’s food and beverage operators—trying to strike the right balance. The challenge into the future will continue to be catering to the changing demographics and demands of in-bound guests.

Summer tourism and the importance of maintaining restaurant operation during the warmer months will also be fundamental in building-upon the year-round food culture.

“I think it would be better if we could get a [food] community where everyone works

together, like the new Autumn Food Festival in Niseko this year, if we could have more things like that. A space in the centre of the village that can bring people all together,” Eulry says.

For Cap, strengthening existing community bonds, and creating new ones, will be the foundation for a healthy food culture into the future.

“Community bond is strong with similar casual restaurants like izakaya. I recommend other restaurants to my guests, like Jam bar, Yummy’s for dining, Koharuya for izakaya and either Toshiro’s Bar or Bar Gyu+ for nice drinks,” Cap explains.

At the end of the day, Niseko’s people, who are working, living and breathing the restaurants each day and night are the core of the culture.

“My staff here are very nice and friendly, and we are a good team to work together.

We “kanpai” [cheers] around 9pm once all the busyness settles down, to say otsukare [thanks for your work] together,” Cap says.

“I feel enjoyment and fulfillment when I see guests leaving with big smiles on their faces. I really would like people to come here to end their day with good food, sake and good vibes.”

And, kanpai to that!

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 27

Kanpai!

WORDS & INTERVIEWS: KIRSTEN FAIRBAIRN

AS THE SAYING GOES, ‘EAT AS THE LOCALS DO’, SO WHY not drink like them too. In such a uniquely multicultural and seasonal town, “local” can be hard to clarify, but this just creates more diversity, not only in people but in places to socialise and enjoy Hirafu. Needless to say, there is a bar for every taste in Niseko.

Some bars cater for an intimate experience or live music if you are looking to cool down after a day on the mountain; others allow you to dance the night away with resident DJs if you are only just warming-up. Some serve-up unique and experimental cocktail menus while others serve local beer, sake and sochu (Japanese spirit).

Discover Niseko’s nightlife and meet fellow holiday-makers from around the world; locals who will tell you all about Niseko in summer; or befriend seasonal workers and get an inside scoop on the best secret spots on the mountain.

HOTSPOTS Here are some of the top spots as rated by the locals JUN

ANDRES

KATE

Favourite Drink: Kirin Hard Cider Lives: Hirafu Works: Niseko Central Time in Niseko: Six months

Favourite Drink: Old Fashioned Lives: Hirafu Works: Nisade Time in Niseko: Four winters and one summer

Favourite Drink: Detox Smoothie Lives: Hirafu Works: Ki Niseko Time in Niseko: One year

“I like the owner Kin-chan and his staff are nice and kind. It is personal, cozy and it is easy to make new friends there.”

“My favourite secret spot is The Barn at happy hour; there are great drinks sold really cheap and it’s super quiet.”

“Whenever I order Musu’s Detox Smoothie, the combination of wasabi, shiso, and soy milk raises eyebrows; however, it makes me feel clean inside, and I become weightless on the dance floor.”

Bar Moon

28 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

The Barn

Musu

Clockwise from far left: Musu; Niseko Ice Village; Gyu Bar

JEN

EMILY

TOMOMI

Favourite Drink: 100% Agave Tequila Time in Niseko: Eight years

Favourite Drink: Apple Pie Lives: Kutchan Works: International School Time in Niseko: 16 months

Favourite Drink: Earl Grey Cooler or Kinkan Tonic Lives: Kabayama Works: International School Time in Niseko: Three winters and one summer

Ice Village

“The Ice Village is my favourite because of its “cool” vibes, good DJs, and venison yakitori.“

Gyu Bar

“The love the craftsmanship and unique style of their entire menu; sitting near the bar and watching the bartender work his magic. The scene is set immediately, like walking into another world through the fridge door. Great interior, great music, great ambience.”

Toshiro’s Bar

“I like Toshiro’s Bar; it’s my number one. I like the place to chill and talk. Sit at the counter and talk to Toshiro, meet locals or tourists and talk about interesting things. Get tipsy not drunk and always have a good time there.”

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 29

30 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Farm to Flame Japanese soul-food by day and a dazzling Hokkaido izakaya by night, introducing Niseko’s newest place to eat, drink and enjoy.

WORDS: SOFIE LAHTINEN

N

owhere in Niseko can you ski-in and ski-out to experience an izayaka, until now.

Kumo Restaurant is Niseko’s answer to casual Japanese dining (otherwise known in the west as a “Japanese pub”) with Hokkaido produce at its core.

Situated at the top of Hirafu village at new luxury Skye Niseko, the restaurant serves traditional Hokkaido izakaya favourites, like zangi—Hokkaido’s own karaage or “fried chicken”), as well as dishes inspired by broader Asia.

Kumo Restaurant’s Food & Beverage Manager, Richard Robbins, who has lived and worked in Hokkaido for over seven years with five of those in Niseko, says as many ingredients as possible are sourced locally through both new and long-term relationships built with local growers, fisheries and producers.

“We’ve got seafood, meat, vegetables from local farms and local markets. There’s a lot of connections we go through to build collaboration with the suppliers and farms. Hokkaido is known for its seafood and dairy so we try to connect those suppliers as much as possible,” Robbins explains.

Naturally, the menu is based around these local flavours, particularly at dinner. Think Hokkaido Wagyu Fillet, Grilled Taraba “Hokkaido Crab”, Uni and Ikura Platters (sea urchin and salmon caviar) plus fresh local tofu. Guests can engage in authentic Japanese cooking with the “stone cooked” a must-try with traditional ishiyaki grilling stones served direct to the table.

For skiers coming off the slopes around noon, the lunch menu has been designed to not only give traditional Japanese flavours but also some warmth and comfort for long days on the snow.

“Everybody is skiing and coming off the mountain and they want something hardy, tasty and casual. Lunch is more hardy Japanese soul-food. We are featuring more regions of Japan, not just Hokkaido, because for people

who come to visit Niseko, it might be their first time to Japan—it’s more regional Japan,” Robbins says.

When it comes to post-ski satisfaction, flavours from around Asia are introduced as part of the après-ski menu.

“We have included elements of Asian street food; familiar dishes that people wouldn’t necessarily get here in Niseko. For example, bao buns, using braised Hokkaido pork belly with ginger and spice. Easy, tasty and something people can relate to,” Robbins explains.

The authentic flavours of Japan, Asia and touches of the west reflect the passionate people at Kumo Restaurant, hailing from the world-over. The team includes culinary and hospitality professionals from Korea, Australia, Japan, London and France. Leading the kitchen and menu design is Head Chef, Kiyoshi Burgess, moving to Niseko from London.

With Japanese-Australian roots, Burgess brings 13 years in prestigious establishments including famous Japanese restaurant Zuma (London), Shunju (Japan) and Bone Daddies Group (London). As for the chef’s recommendations, it’s easy, says Burgess.

“For dinner, I recommend anything off the charcoal grill as there are a lot of ingredients from around Hokkaido to get that BBQ flavour going—it’s just simple but nice. For lunch, Kaisen Don is a Hokkaido classic,” he says.

The passion for delivering local produce in its more natural and flavoursome way is at the heart of Kumo Restaurant; the people make the experience.

“I think staff is another key point, more than the food. We have a great international team. We are trying to bring in different flavours, cooking techniques and good handling of ingredients. It’s easy just to buy nice ingredients but you have to take care of them,” Robbins says.

“Also, the fact it’s [the restaurant] ski-in ski-out makes it pretty special,” he says.

■ Kumo Restaurant — Located 1st Floor at Skye Niseko. To book your table at Kumo Restaurant, visit www.kumoniseko.com

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 31

The Sweet Life Niseko’s specialty desserts reflect the communities and cultures that are brought together by the deep powdered snow. This diversity married with raw creativity, intercontinental culinary techniques and fresh local produce makes Niseko’s dessert scene one to pay attention to.

Known as a winter paradise, chefs and restaurateurs are reimagining the beautiful winter scenery, fun atmosphere and welcoming nature by creating lasting sweet memories of Niseko through heavenly indulgent desserts.

WORDS: VICTORIA YAP

32 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Snowball SHINICHI MAEDA, AN DINING Fittingly named, An Dining’s signature dessert, Snowball, plays with the senses and invites diners on a gastronomical journey.

Visually striking, a fluffy white dome rests gently on its plate as it is first presented at the table. Made from layers of plum wine infused marshmallow and garnished with a generous amount of white chocolate shavings, the pure white pillow is almost too pretty to eat.

After marvelling at the perfectly shaped dessert, take an effortless spoon full into the semi sphere to reveal a centre of Hokkaido rare cream cheese. The cloud like marshmallow exterior and soft mousse melts within seconds on the diner’s palate and disappears just like snow.

This is exactly the impression and texture Shinichi Maeda, Head Chef & Owner of An Dining hopes to achieve with his signature dessert.

“The dessert has to be the lightest and the shortest lasting dish on the course menu.

Made to order, sent to the table, explained quickly and eaten straight away,” Maeda says of his innovative dish.

“Just like Hokkaido’s seasons, everything is short, beautiful but very short. The whole concept is simply that. Like powdered snow which isn’t heavy, it has to melt fast and not stay for long,” he explains.

Conveying this idea of short seasons in Hokkaido and mimicking the texture of snow, Maeda took over a year to perfect the look and taste of his dessert to match his image of

the winter scenery in Niseko. He drew a lot of his inspiration for the dessert from his visit to Niseko in 2010.

“Even before opening An Dining, I had already started creating Hokkaido’s special region menu,” he says.

Originally from Hokkaido, Maeda spent his former years abroad in Australia, winning many titles and firmly establishing himself as one of Australia’s best chefs.

Returning to Hokkaido after a decade and seeing Niseko’s powder snow left a strong impression on Maeda. This urged him to strive towards creating dishes that leave diners with a reflective impression of the area, eventually leading him to open An Dining in 2014.

Leaving diners scraping plates for more, Snowball attracts guests from all over to visit the restaurant. “Pretty much every night someone comes here just for dessert. They’ve either had it here before or they’ve heard about it,” Maeda says.

“Ordering [dessert] in a restaurant, there is normally a lot of condiments and more detail.

But when they see [Snowball] it’s so simple, it’s just a ball, just like snow. Before you even taste it, you already expect it to be light and fluffy as it jiggles slightly.”

Constantly seeking improvement to his dishes, Maeda experiments with local produce to bring more of the cooking process in-house.

Currently in testing at An Deli is cured fresh plums to make umeboshi (salted plums) and cream cheese from scratch.

Maeda hopes to create an even more refined flavour that is only found in Niseko.

“I want people to travel to eat this and make it so unique that no one can mimic it from anywhere else in the world,” he says.

Snowball is served daily from 11:30am - 9:30pm and is best consumed by taking a larger than usual bite so it dissolves slower in the mouth and flavours can be savoured for longer.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 33

S’mores KIYOSHI BURGESS, KUMO RESTAURANT Kumo Restaurant’s S’mores, brings a fun, modern Japanese spin on the American classic campfire treat.

Coming in both matcha (green tea) and yuzu (Japanese citrus fruit) flavours, diners can enjoy roasting the s’mores over a small charcoal grill at the table. Pair it with one (or two) slices of chocolate and rice crackers or eat it straight from the skewer.

The seemingly effortless sweet dessert takes delicate handling of local ingredients and several hours of preparation before arriving on the table. Made every morning before the sun rises above Mt Yotei, the marshmallow mixture is whipped until perfect stiff peaks are formed whilst slowly adding matcha powder and yuzu extract for a light citrus punch and aromatic matcha sweetness.

Poured into canisters to set for a few hours at controlled temperatures, the correct consistency is achieved before it is cut into perfect cubes, lightly powdered and ready to be served.

Making his debut in Niseko as Head Chef at Kumo Restaurant, Kiyoshi Burgess’ eclectic culinary experience and multi-cultured background as Japanese-Australian has played a defining role in shaping the menu at the Hokkaido izakaya and creating this signature dessert.

Acquiring over 13 years of experience at Zuma, Shunju and Bone Daddies Group in London, Burgess believes dishes should be delicious without being over complicated.

“My approach to cooking is to keep everything

34 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

simple and work off traditional recipes but always adding a bit of a modern twist to it, “ he says.

Coming to Niseko, Burgess was pleasantly surprised by the international feel that Niseko has. This served as an inspiration to create carefree, unexpected combinations of traditional Japanese and western dishes.

Visualising the fun and easygoing vibes between skiers in Niseko’s winter playground, Burgess’ take on the traditional campfire treat adds in mellow matcha and tangy yuzu while replacing traditional graham crackers with milk senbei, a type of dagashi, which are quick and easy snacks typically eaten by kids growing up in Japanese households.

The dessert brings both domestic and international guests back to the simple childhood memories much alike exploring Niseko’s varied snowy slopes.

Burgess’ S’mores further embodies the spirit of adventure and playfulness in Niseko’s powder snow through introducing an interactive element to the dinner table.

“I want something that guests can make at the table so they can feel like a part of the whole dish,” Burgess says.

At the casual, affordable Kumo Restaurant, guests are encouraged to play with their food, get their fingers messy with the sticky, melted marshmallow and take satisfying bites into the sweet and scrumptious s’mores sandwiched between two crisp rice crackers.

“Making guest’s dining experience more interactive, makes it more memorable for them. Quick or long chats over s’mores recapping the fun day out on the snow. We want a connection between Kumo Restaurant, our guests and the overall experience in Niseko. Memories that make people want to come back,” Burgess explains.

Burgess hopes that his dessert will “add a bit of fire, and a bit of fun” to guests’ day. The Head Chef’s hot tip on cooking the perfect s’mores is to make sure they’re crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Gather around the fire at Kumo Restaurant with friends and have a chat for the perfect end to a day out on the slopes.

S’mores are served daily on both Kumo Restaurant’s dinner menu served from 5:30pm - 23:00pm.

Chocolate

Passionfruit Sauce

Louvre Chocolat Caramel Cream

Chocolate Mousse

Chocolate Sponge

Almond, Caramel, Cornflake, Chocolate

OKADA SHINGO, L’OCANDA Run by a local Japanese family, the Italian restaurant’s popular dessert, Louvre Chocolat conveys a heartwarming message to newcomers in Niseko.

At first glance, diners are presented with an interestingly built dessert. A chocolate box made from Belgium chocolate and shards of almond protects a light chocolate sponge cake with a crumbly bottom layer made from cornflakes, almond and caramel. Above this is a swirl of caramel cream and passionfruit sauce with a thin piece of chocolate laying slanted on top.

Pastry Chef Shingo Okada reveals his creation is designed to resemble a house.

Lovingly named by the patissier’s wife, Louvre Chocolat is meant to loosely translate to “Chocolate House” in French and symbolise the welcoming nature of the family restaurant.

“Just like a house, the cake is made part by part, each layer is put into the fridge to set. The entire cake takes roughly three to four days to make,” Okada says.

Treasuring family values, Okada returned to his hometown to open L’ocanda with his older brother and parents after working at famous patisseries in Tokyo and Nagoya for over 10 years. Taking up the role as patissier, other family members take care of the dining service and front of house.

Okada’s decadent dessert aims to welcome guests with a substantially rich treat to indulge and warm-up indoors on a chilly winter day.

“Texture is really important for me when making Louvre Chocolat. I want to give everyone something rich and fulfilling to eat after being outside in the snow,” Okada says.

As Okada further explains his dish, he draws out a rough sketch of his cake. “When you eat the cake as a whole, there is a lot of different textures. Soft chocolate, light cornflakes, crushed almonds with melted caramel paste, an airy sponge cake, thick caramel mousse and passionfruit sauce.

Multiple layers of textures create an interesting texture in your mouth,” Okada illustrates.

Digging in, the soft Belgium chocolate sponge cake strikes the perfect balance with the crunchy chocolate walls and almond bites.

Meanwhile, the remarkably creamy caramel mousse topped with a spoon of passionfruit sauce brings a subtle acidity which furls joy to the mouth.

Originally made as a Christmas cake last winter to share between families during the festive period, Okada introduced Louvre Chocolat as a mini version so wandering solo travellers can also feel the festivity.

Louvre Chocolat is available daily at L’ocanda from 11am – 8pm.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 35

THE NIGHTLIFE IS LIT Niseko nightlife is well known for its lively bar scene but the most underrated last call in town is for the Hirafu Gondola.

WORDS: ADAM SCHICK & JESSICA SCOTT

36 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

IF YOU ASK a Niseko local what the best thing about night riding is, they will tell you about the fresh tracks that can be enjoyed all the way until closing time and the absence of lift lines.

Despite the epic snowfall accumulation we see when a storm hits Niseko, the truth is that it can still get tracked out pretty quickly in the morning on a busy day. You can always expect the dedicated powder hounds to start queuing well before the lifts open, but surprisingly not many of them stick around past early afternoon nor do they come back after dark.

This means there is plenty of time after the crowds disperse and before the lights come on for the fresh snow to stack up again, creating prime conditions for deep turns that you don’t have to compete for. This can be a lifesaver for those of us who worked all day, saw the sunrise after a night spent in the karaoke limelight, or arrived in Niseko midday and can’t fathom the notion of missing a day on hill.

Although most of us may prefer stormy nights that provide fresh tracks and free refills, clear and calm

nights can also be a great time to hit the slopes after dark. Looking out over the lights of Hirafu village under a full moon with Mt Yotei clearly visible in the distance makes for a truly unique atmosphere. These tend to be the sort of conditions when we experience something completely unexpected; one evening just before closing time we were fortunate enough to encounter a fox cruising along a narrow trail through the trees below Miharashi–how magical is that?

There is a wide-variety of terrain illuminated in Niseko, with several runs to choose from for every ability level; however, if you are unsure where to start, GoSnow offers twilight lessons which are a great way to get comfortable in a night riding environment.

Niseko’s night operations are consistently ranked alongside the best resorts in the world. Be sure to add hitting the slopes after dark to your list of things to experience while in Niseko; whether you’re a local or a visitor, night skiing is a part of Niseko that you should be sure not to miss.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

1 2 3

Night skiing is open 4:30pm 8:30pm from December 11th, 2018 to March 20th, 2019 Four lifts at Grand Hirafu (including the Gondola) provide access to approximately 70 hectares of terrain Use light coloured or clear goggle lenses for the best visibility

4

Wear extra layers for cold night-time temps

5

Snacks in your pocket will help keep you going until closing time when you can then get ramen

6

If you are driving, park at the Hirafu Gondola because you won’t be able to ride back to the Hanazano, Niseko Village, or Annupuri base areas after dark

PRO-TIP Bring a headlamp or high-power flashlight to take advantage of the trees and poorly-lit areas most people overlook at night

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 37

Small Town, Big Snow FROM A JAPANESE COUNTRY TOWN TO AN INTERNATIONAL STAR—JUST HOW DID NISEKO GET SO FAMOUS? WORDS: SOFIE LAHTINEN TRANSLATIONS: YUKO MIYAKE

38 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

T

hey’ve been coming here since the late eighties when they were just college students. They knew about Niseko long before the world did— skiing the deepest power snow on the planet by day and recharging in the onsen at the then-new Hotel Niseko Alpen by night. But a lot has changed since then. While many of the original Japanese ‘powder hounds’ still return to their familiar hotel each winter, half of the guests now joining them are foreign–this fifty-fifty split an unusual thing though in Niseko’s changing winter face.

Consistent snow and an equally consistent lift ticket price comparatively worldwide, keeps the Japanese coming back. For the international visitors, now is drawcard number one, but there’s something more elusive than that. Talk to anyone fond of Niseko, locals or travellers alike, and it’s hard for them to pinpoint exactly what it is that makes it so alluring. The Niseko ‘brand’ is fast-becoming an icon globally, with the resort now welcoming hundreds of thousands of international visitors each winter alone.

LIFTING UP The numbers stack up. Since 2008, the number of people tapping into the lifts at Niseko Grand Hirafu sits at an average of just over four-percent growth per annum. Mother Nature has caused some downward trends over the years though with the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake seeing 426,000 people from the season prior dip to 373,000 at the end of the 2011/12 season. That same year, Tokyu Resort Service, owner and operator of Niseko Grand Hirafu, celebrated the company’s 50th anniversary, opening the Hirafu Gondola and renewed the Hirafu Mountain Center–now both local landmarks.

Over 480,000 eager skiers and snowboarders hit the slopes the past 2017/18 season. It’s a lot; however,

a small drop from the year before, but not because of a natural disaster, but because of the behavior of a changing market.

Executive Officer of Tokyu Resort Service, Yoshinao Kamae, has seen a lot transformation since he moved to Niseko from Tokyu’s main office in Tokyo 10 years ago. Kamae says that while visitor numbers at accommodation increased the past season, the number of people on lifts didn’t hit previous year numbers because of the increase in Asian guests.

“The quality of the snow makes Niseko so attractive.

That’s for sure. Some resorts in the world have artificial snow, but in Niseko we get fresh snow every night in the winter and that is simply amazing,” Kamae explains.

“Except for some expert skiers or snowboarders, most Asians come here to experience the snow, not for the quality of the snow to ski. Because it’s close to their home countries, Japan is convenient for them to try a snow resort.”

“We see a lot of people outside of the hotel, but they just enjoy the snow outside, wearing their coats and jackets. We saw a lot of those people last winter.

It’s interesting, but those people who are not here for powder snow [skiing] come to Niseko for the status purpose, to spend time as part of Niseko. It shows the power of the Niseko ‘brand’,” Kamae says.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 39

Right: Opening day of the Ace Family Quad Lift Below: Guests enjoy lessons at GoSnow Opposite page: GoSnow Director Tareesa Straatmans

THE WORLD STAGE The origins of the Niseko brand date back to the early days, before the first lift was installed in 1961. Before that locals would hike the slopes to get their ski-fix. In 1985, Tokyu took over the King-side ski slopes, then in 2004 acquired the Ace-side and combined them together, starting operation as Niseko Grand Hirafu.

Japan as a skier’s paradise was known to the pioneering locals who loved it, but it was Sapporo’s hosting of the 1972 Winter Olympic Games that got the Japanese hooked. The influence of large-scale winter sporting events, like the Winter Olympics in PyeongChang, South Korea earlier this year and Beijing 2022, is something Kamae believes will continue to impact not only Niseko as a go-to snowsports destination, but Asia at large.

“Holding a huge winter sport events in Asia might help increase people’s enthusiasm in the whole of Asia. And, it leads to the people who have never seen snow in their lives in Asia to come to Japan, like Hokkaido, to experience the snow paradise,” Kamae says.

“More direct flights from Asian countries to New Chitose Airport have ended up helping to get more Asian guests coming to Niseko–it’s a natural flow.”

While there’s an influx from Asia due to proximity, a growing interest for Niseko as a holiday destination, and an increasing number of investors in Niseko from Hong Kong and Singapore, as well as relative ‘newbies’ from Malaysia and the Philippines, there’s no denying Australia has had a love affair with Niseko since before.

THE SKIER’S DREAM From the 90s until pre-2007 and the GFC, Niseko’s first Aussie pioneers started discovering the secret of Niseko’s snow and investment opportunity, migrating north to buy and build condos and properties which still stand today. They were serious about skiing, and about Niseko, and still are today–the likes of local legends Ross Findley (NAC) and Ross Carty (NOASC) some of the forerunners.

Aussie-expat and Director of Niseko Grand Hirafu’s ski school GoSnow, Tareesa Straatmans, says it wasn’t until 2005 that word had hit the Australian slopes about Japan being a place to ski. Originally from Jinabyne, home to Australia’s 40 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

famous Perisher and Thredbo resorts, and celebrating her 30th winter season in 2018/19, Straatmans has worked and ridden all over the globe.

After nine seasons at Perisher, five in Thredbo, a few years at Mammoth in California, Park City in Utah and five at Whistler, Straatmans finally landed in Niseko.

“When I first arrived, seven years ago, the resort was definitely a different place.

The people that were coming to visit the resort were mainly Australian tourists who were experienced skiers and snowboarders, and of course, domestic guests who were very serious about their sport. And then over the last four to five years, you can certainly notice the development of the resort into an international resort,” Straatmans says.

“Definitely when I started it felt more like a ‘riders’ resort that people would come for that purpose and now they’re coming for the all-in experience. It’s not just about the mountain, it’s about the beautiful

accommodations that you can stay at, and the restaurants and services,” she explains.

Straatmans often scratches her head at just how much development and expansion has happened, even in the relatively short time she has been here, having not seen anything like it in other resorts world-wide.

The big north American and even European resorts went through their period of growth in the 80s and 90s, and it seems Niseko is going through a similar, or even faster, transition right now.

“It’s definitely a unique place to be, to be part of a community that is building its dream of what a resort should be and feel like. It’s quite an exciting place to be right now; being able to influence that through the resort services we provide our guests and looking at ways we can give them an amazing experience,” Straatmans says.

NO DOUBT ABOUT SNOW So, what exactly does make the ‘dream’ resort?

The obvious and easiest answer is the snow.

IT’S DEFINITELY A UNIQUE PLACE TO BE, TO BE PART OF A COMMUNITY THAT IS BUILDING ITS DREAM OF WHAT A RESORT SHOULD BE AND FEEL LIKE.

People are after all wanting to experience bountiful snow for as many days as possible when on a ski or snow holiday. With other major resorts globally receiving variable snow conditions, especially over the past five years, Niseko becomes an obvious choice.

Two years ago, Europe had a season where skiing on only manmade snow was the norm and while pretty unusual, it was widespread a the continent. America has had similar seasons in recent years. With Niseko’s average winter snowfall hitting 14 metres it’s almost unfathomable for those who haven’t yet experienced it. It was gangbusters last winter with almost 15 metres of snow recorded from November through May. “Japan really does live up to its name and I think a lot of people come and go home and start talking about how much snow they had in Japan and it creates that interest,” Straatmans explains.

“I think a lot of the holiday-makers look for a northern hemisphere skiing

experience, of wanting to go somewhere where they know they’ll get a reliable ski experience, because it isn’t cheap to visit a foreign country and resort.”

Not only does Niseko deliver on the snow front thanks to strong and constant Siberan winds bringing in the metreage, it provides something that other resorts can’t–unmatchable Japanese hospitality and culture.

“Japan can be quite tourist-friendly, especially in Niseko. It’s very easy for a foreign guest to come and be looked after here, and have a great experience and not necessarily struggle with any communication issues. They can get that cultural experience while being comfortable–that’s what draws people in,” Straatmans says.

THE GUEST EXPERIENCE Keeping guests happy, both on and off the mountain, is certainly paramount for the future success of Niseko as a holiday

spot. Improving facilities on the mountain continues to be a focus for Tokyu, with the resort recently developing the entire Family Base area. Replacing the Ace Family Pair lift, the new high-speed, detachable Ace Family Quad chair more than doubles lift capacity and takes guests further up the slope than before, roughly 300 metres higher above the base than previously.

The base of the lift also moved upslope approximately 40 metres to provide greater space for GoSnow’s magic carpet and learning area.

The Family Quad is the second new lift for Grand Hirafu in the last three years, with the King Quad Lift #2 replacing the King Hooded Triple Lift #3 from winter 2016/17.

The lift base was pulled 130 metres down the mountain to allow a better connection to other lifts–the capacity of 1,800 people per hour increased by thirty-percent.

“That’s [the King Quad] a very important lift for people to be able to access other resort areas and terrain so

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 41

FINDING OUT THE IDENTITY OF NISEKO, AND MAINTAINING IT, IS WHAT WE ALL NEED TO KEEP IN MIND.

Yoshinao Kamae, Executive Officer of Tokyu Resort Service

while there are beginner and novice runs up there, that lift improving definitely made things better for the more experienced rider too,” Straatmans says.

“We meet with Grand Hirafu and Tokyu regularly who also discuss with all of Niseko United resorts about facilities for beginners. Tokyu have over the last few years put in two new magic carpets for us at GoSnow, previously there was only one operating at Grand Hirafu, so now we have three.”

“We’ve also developed our beginner areas to be on a better pitch, to be wider and have the carpet better positioned. We have also begun discussions on how we can further expand and improve those areas and scouting possible locations for more potential carpets in Hirafu. That’s definitely our big plan–making sure we have enough learning spaces for our guests,” Straatmans explains.

KEEPING IT JAPANESE While facility expansion is on the agenda, Kamae is highlighting other critical factors at play, like the Niseko brand. As it stands, Niseko is in transition, but what happens if it morphs too far and loses its unique Japanese heritage, which ultimately makes it such a unique resort?

This is something Kamae is trying to figure it.

“It’s important to keep traditional Japanese culture with a good balance of westernising. But it’s always hard to balance both tangible and intangible elements in resort development. Finding out the identity of Niseko, and maintaining it, is what we all need to keep in mind,” Kamae says.

“As a ski resort service company, we are very happy for all the development for the accommodations so that we could get more capacity to welcome guests. But I feel a bit fearful that the resort could be in a chaotic situation unless certain regulations are setup.”

The people within the resort, domestic but primarily international staff, working hard and long-hours servicing guests, are a central component of this identity.

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“The current concern of this whole area is that we all struggle getting employees. The more tourists, the more staff needed. There are more Japanese staff than foreign staff at Tokyu because we are the Japanese capital company, but in the winter time, for example at Aya Niseko, we get 50 staff with half being foreigners who don’t speak Japanese and half being Japanese. It’s fine for winter time because more than ninety-percent of the guests are foreigners,” Kamae explains.

“As permanent staff, it’s a different story because for the summer, the target to promote to completely shifts to the domestic market so the language skill is very important.”

To non-Japanese people in Niseko, ‘Japan’ is still here and while there is an undeniable multi-cultural mix, perhaps this is what makes Niseko so intriguing, yet so comfortable for foreigners.

“The little things baffle me about the resort experience here, like the lift operators that will wipe down every single chair that you sit on regardless if it’s snowing or not. That is an experience you won’t get anywhere else in the world–that little be of extra care and Japanese touch,” Straatmans explains.

“Niseko is really special to me now because of the opportunity to contribute to its growth as a community.

It’s coming up to my 30th winter season in the industry and to be able to contribute to what is already an amazing resort, and what will be even more so in the future, and be able to look back on it and know that I helped in some way to build a better resort, that’s what I love about it.”

“Aside from that, you do have to remind yourself sometimes, when you’ve been here a while, you’ve got so many amazing mountains in this region like Yotei, not to mention the snow quality, the culture, the food and onsens!” Straatmans says.

This begs the question: would Niseko be the most exciting, vibrant and unique resort in the world if it had been done in any other way? The trick will be in searching and finding the best line forward.

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44 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

THE BEAUTY OF THE

BACKCOUNTRY

FROM THE BEGINNER MOUNTAINS TO THE EXTREME, EXPLORING NISEKO’S UNTRACKED TERRAIN WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 45

Ivan in pillow country

WITH THE INCREASING NUMBER OF powder hounds making the pilgrimage to Niseko hunting for bottomless turns and the legendary instant refills, more riders each season are choosing human powered lines to get away from crowds and to find untouched paradise.

Backcountry skiing has gained popularity over the years as a way to explore terrain beyond resorts and as a platform to raise awareness on climate change (think extreme snowboarder and founder of Protect Our Winters, Jeremy Jones' commitment to go lift, snowmobile, and helicopter free).

This is by no means a comprehensive guide, but can serve as a good starting point for getting into backcountry skiing in the Niseko area.

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INTO THE MOUNTAINS The Niseko Range offers the perfect setting to develop backcountry skills with different zones for progression. Rich in history, the mountains here are named with a mixture of Japanese and Ainu. Nupuri is "mountain" in the native Ainu language while dake is "mountain" in Japanese. The Niseko Range, beginning on the runs of Grand Hirafu resort on Annupuri, extends all the way to Iwanai at the Sea of Japan.

Rideable snow blankets the range from as early as mid-November into the early days of May, making it a haven for those who prefer their lines to be human powered.

Early season riding can be littered with sasa (Japanese bamboo grass), which turns the mountain into a natural slalom course.

Snow consistency and quality can be as good or better than snow in resort.

With enough for everyone, it is a slower paced alternative to experiencing this region's famed snow. The range's relatively low vertical gain also means for day trips, fit hikers can ride multiple lines in one outing. Most of these mountains will have varying zones of difficulty, making them perfect for multiple visits as you begin to feel more comfortable out there.

Riding in the backcountry is extremely weather dependent and in the deep

winter, storm systems bringing powder snow can quickly drop visibility down to a few meters. If you are planning on riding these zones and are unsure on navigation, hiring a guide or riding with someone who has knowledge of the area is recommended. Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC) in Hirafu has topographic maps of the mountains mentioned in this article.

Avalanche report updates can be found on SnowJapan and the Niseko United website.

Local insight of terrain and conditions can be found with longtime residents, GoSnow, and Hanazono Powder Guides, among many other options.

BEGINNER: ANNUPURI, IWAONUPURI, CHISENUPURI If you are considering backcountry skiing for the first time or do not have much experience out of bounds, remember to ride with someone who understands the terrain and dangers involved in different conditions.

Although Hokkaido is known for a relatively stable snowpack (compared to Europe or North America), there is always risk. You should be an advanced rider who knows how to ride with control in all kinds of off-piste conditions (including armpits of deep Hokkaido snow), ski between trees

Cold smoke for breakfast

and read terrain. You should also be relatively fit, able to hike and ride for long periods, and be self-sufficient in case you run into trouble.

Easy access to the back bowls of Annupuri (1,308 metres) can be taken from gates 1 and 2 of Grand Hirafu after a ride on the affectionately named "Pizza Box" (King Lift #4) and a short 20-minute boot pack to the peak.

Alternatively, access via the backroads is available after a quick drive up Route 66 and onto Route 58 via the Hirafu side (the Kutchan side is closed in the winter).

Park the small lot next to Goshiki Onsen to begin touring either up the North Face of Annupuri on the backside of the resort or the Iwaonupuri side. Iwaonupuri (1,116 metres) offers slightly steeper pitches and shorter hike times. The southeast face can be lapped a few times in one day for those exceptionally keen.

Chisenupuri (1,134 metres) is another option with easy access from the road and features everything from low angle powder fields to relatively long runs on open faces. The southeast aspect is a classic option for wide open skiing. The House of Powder catksi operates in the lower elevation areas of the now defunct Chisenupuri resort, adjacent to the army training base.

Catskiing is a great introduction to backcountry skiing if you are already competent riding in powder and dashing between trees, but do not want to make the leap into reading terrain and choosing both uphill and downhill lines.

Along the road to Goshiki Onsen, depending on the part of season, you can find short pitches of fun, pillow filled terrain for hot laps. Backcountry riding does not necessarily mean you have to hike for hours to drop one line. Sometimes multiple 30-minute hikes and drop-ins can be equally as rewarding.

A major perk of riding here is that you can defrost at conveniently located onsen along the road, such as Yukichichibu or Goshiki. For a taste of the other side of the hydrological cycle, bottle up some spring water from one of the many sources located along the road. Locals can often be seen filling multiple 20 litre jugs to last the week, and coffee made from this water is some of the best.

INTERMEDIATE: IWAONUPURI, MEKUNNAIDAKE The North Chute of Iwaonupuri is a short but steep run that takes a bit more work than the "easy access" list to get into and out of.

This line has a flat tour in and tour out back

NOLAN’S TOP 10 TIPS FOR EXPLORING THE BACKCOUNTRY 1. Never ride alone.

2. Make sure beacons, shovels and probes are in working order and that you know how to use them.

3. Understand that there is always risk in uncontrolled zones. Learn to read the terrain and mitigate risk as much as you can.

4. Gear can break or fail so be prepared for the worst.

5. Bring food (kudos if they don’t freeze) because calories are warmth and low blood sugar is no fun, especially because you may be out longer than anticipated.

6. Stay hydrated. You not only lose water through sweat, but the dry winter air can sap moisture from your breath. Cold weather can cause a diminished thirst response, tricking you into thinking you're properly hydrated.

7. Nail down your layering system (no cotton!)

8. A thermos of hot coffee (or tea) makes all the difference.

9. Visiting an onsen after touring is a great recovery tool.

10. Have fun!

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to the parking lot, so if you're on skis, you can push back to the parking lot and break trail for your snowboarding friends.

Closer to Iwanai than Niseko, Mekunnaidake, (1,220 metres) has wide open northwest and south faces where you can really let your skis or boards go, as the treeline ends at around 850 metres.

To access this mountain, drive up the road towards the old Niimi Onsen (closed as of 2017) until you hit a dead end of snow.

There is a relatively flat entry to the main Mekunnai face, from where it will kick up to give an amazing view of the Niseko Range all the way to Yotei.

ADVANCED: YOTEI-ZAN, SHIREBETSUDAKE, NISEKO TO IWANAI TRAVERSE This next mountain is not technically on the Niseko Range, but deserves a spot on this list because of its iconic status as Hokkaido's longest continuous vertical run. Mount Yotei (1,898 metres), the Fuji of the North, is an aesthetic mountain, offering beautiful, uninterrupted lines down the many gullies that wrap around the conical volcano.

Depending on fitness, access point, and snow conditions, the top can be reached in as little as five hours, with many opting to ride into the crater, which offers cliff drops for those inclined to spend some time flying.

The crater has a steep entrance and can take up to 40 minutes to get back out to the rim.

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Peter on snow melting duty at basecamp

The conditions can range from whiteout storms, to pristine powder, to bulletproof ice, so give yourself a decent window if you are looking to ski Yotei in prime conditions.

Mount Shirebetsu (1,107 metres) is a standalone mountain in the Niseko region that offers the chance to ride dream "steep and deep" stashes. It is an alternative to Mt Yotei for steep lines in this part of Hokkaido. You may have seen some of the all-time riding that can be had on this mountain in GoPro's "The Search for Perfection" with Chris Benchetler and John Jackson back in 2015.

For the endurance junkies or those into multi-day touring, the classic Niseko to Iwanai (or Iwanai to Niseko) traverse

is a great way to link the whole range and opportunity to get deep into the wilderness.

Depending on conditions, the fastest skiers can complete the traverse in under 24 hours (staying mostly on ridges), with the most common option to spend two or three days exploring multiple zones and camping along the way.

Stashing one car in Iwanai and leaving it there for your arrival into the small coastal town is the best way to get back.

Alternatively, you could have someone drive you back to Niseko. Splitting a taxi from Iwanai to Niseko will run you around 10,000 yen in total. Most taxis in the area will have ski racks as standard and can fit up to four passengers.

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First Floor, Skye Niseko www.kumoniseko.com eat@kumoniseko.com 0136-55 6421 EXPERIENCE NISEKO 49

HOW SKIS ARE MADE WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

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Skis are made to be the paintbrushes with which we make our marks on the mountain. To a certain degree, it is not about the ski, but the rider; however, a good ski that complements a rider’s style can have a profound effect on the final product: the line. Here, we will delve into the nuances of this paintbrush.

A good ski will respond predictably when driven hard and be stable in the conditions it was designed for. The materials, shape, sidecut, and a host of other features play a large role in ride response and sensation. It is important to know what to look for depending on your personal riding style, intended use, and type of snow you will be riding.

Local ski manufacturer, ROKO SKIS, let us into their factory and under the hood on the process of how skis go from idea to finished product.

Akira Uchiyama, ski designer, test rider, and passionate skier, showed us around his space. Uchiyama, based in Niseko, has been shaping skis for five years at the ROKO ski factory, attached to JR Kutchan Station. ROKO has the unique position as the underdog, starting five years ago from nothing. The team chose the Kutchan Station as ground zero, symbolic in their arrival on the local snow scene and the first thing visitors to Niseko see.

camber, a lift in the center of the ski, affects handling by distributing weight closer to the tip and the tail. Rocker is an upward lift of the front and/or back of the ski, bringing the contact points closer to the boot, effectively making the ski shorter, delivering a smaller turn radius. Rocker will also generate float on powder snow, especially important in Niseko conditions. When driven hard through powder, a ski with rocker will initiate a downward flex on a turn, as the nose rises above the snow. When paired with camber, the snappiness will be even more pronounced, delivering pop out of turns so that you can sink even deeper into the next turn for some snorkeling.

The combination of rocker and camber are factors that will determine the effective edge of a ski, or the part of the ski which actually touches and grips the snow when turning. In Hokkaido powder snow, this metric is less important, as the whole ski is usually submerged or floating on the surface.

STEP ONE: IDEA

Nose/Tail In considering the nose, engineers must attempt to balance vibration reduction without making it too stiff or heavy, which can affect turn initiation. In a ski with large rocker, the nose can stick out and chatter on hard snow or icy conditions, affecting control.

A flat tail will rocket the skier out of turns and provide the feeling of “being on rails.” A twin tip will enable easy release from turns making smearing and slashing easier.

ROKO has chosen a flat tail to keep riders gripping their skis in all conditions, from a perfect piste to bumps or powder. Uchiyama’s vision of a perfect ski is one that he can take from the groomers to untouched backcountry with minimal compromise.

Step one of making skis is the idea. For Uchiyama, this starts with trying to lock down a feeling, citing that it is difficult to describe. As the test rider and the craftsman, where everything is made in-house, there are fewer steps between research and development, as computer designs can become skis quite quickly. However, this still means that he is spending up to a few years on a ski, refining again and again, locking down this arbitrary feeling that translates well to the final rider.

STEP TWO: CAD PROTOTYPING AND SHAPING Rocker/Camber After designing a mock-up in a CAD (computer aided design) program, the preliminary ski shape will be decided.

The basic shapes to consider are camber, rocker (or reverse camber), the shape of the tip and tail, and sidecut.

Working together, these different shapes dictate a large part of the final handling characteristics of a ski. The

Sidecut Sidecut is the subtle hourglass profile of a ski when looked at from the top-down. Sidecut dictates the natural radius of a ski: a deep sidecut will create shorter turns. As you can see, the turn characteristics of a ski can get quite complicated quickly, as all the factors above have to be EXPERIENCE NISEKO 51

ROKO Ski Designer Akira Uchiyama inspects a top-sheet at his workshop

considered for the final product. Any combination of these traits are taken into account in the initial CAD mockups.

The ROKO Shape Shaped by its environment and bottomless conditions, ROKO have settled with a camber design and subtle rocker, meaning they are prioritising that pop after the deepest part of the turn while maintaining stability on fast descents.

Eschewing a big rocker as commonly seen on powder skis means that ROKOs will truly shine at speed. Without the float of a big rocker, speed is truly your friend when riding ROKO’s designs. Uchiyama says his favorite run at Grand Hirafu to take his Platform 1s is out on “SuperCourse,” where the core, fiberglass layup, and shape all work together to provide unparalleled stability and speed off piste. He has no fear letting the skis run and has designed the skis to provide this response. He hopes to give riders of ROKO skis this sensation of pure confidence in their riding.

STEP THREE: BASE Skis are made from bottom up, the base being the first layer in the ski building process.

There are two main ways to make the base, via sintering or extrusion. The base is usually made of Ultra High Molecular Weight Poly-Ethylene. Although the materials used are the same in both processes, the end result affects glide, speed, and wax retention differently.

Making a base via extrusion requires melting the polyethelyne and forcing it through a mold, which sets the thickness of the final base. Sheets of extruded base can then be cut to ski shape. Extruded bases are cheaper to make, but do not hold onto wax as well and are softer, making them more prone to dings and scratches. They do

52 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

not have to be waxed as often as sintered bases because extruded bases release wax at lower rates.

Sintering is the process by which something is molded without melting (heat is still used). Powdered polyethelyene is subjected to high pressures to form the base. Sintered bases are generally more expensive than extruded bases, offering better glide and top speeds. Graphite and fluorocarbon powders are added to the polyethelyene according to secret formulas. Because water has a polarity, adding fluorocarbons (also charged), in the right direction will help (very) subtly deflect snow and water away from the base. Graphite helps the performance of a ski by transferring some of the static from friction between base and snow, away from the contact points.

Although some ski manufacturers place logos on the bottom of a ski (by cutting sections of the base out and replacing it with color or by printing), ROKO have opted for a pure black base with no graphics for maximum glide and longevity. In Uchiyama’s quest to have some of the fastest skis on the mountain, it is easy to see why ROKO have gone minimalist on their bases.

STEP FOUR: CORE Once shape is determined, the raw materials must be milled and cut before heading to the press, where the ski will be glued, set, and matured over a few days. The first part of the process is to make the core, which determines how a ski “feels.” The “feeling” can be attributed mostly to the type of woods and how the strips lay in the core.

To reduce carbon footprint, ROKO sources wood from Asahikawa. They have chosen Hokkaido Painted Maple for its stiffness and ability to charge through a wide range

of conditions. ROKO have picked this tree not only for its desirable ride characteristics, but also for its history as the original wood of choice for the early Niseko riders.

Choosing the right wood is the first step to crafting the ski but the complicated part is deciding how they will lay inside the ski. When milling the core, long strips of wood are placed together and glued. Careful consideration is given to thickness of the core, as even half a millimeter of extra thickness can dramatically affect the stiffness. In their flagship fatski, the P1, ROKO have settled on five strips of maple, citing that they tested seven strips and three strips before deciding on a middle ground.

Akira Uchiyama

STEP FIVE: FIBERGLASS After the core is glued and milled, fiberglass is bonded to the core. Fiberglass is the main contributor to how stiff a ski feels. This material, when mated with epoxy, stiffens to form the layer on top of the wooden core.

Sometimes, skis will have a clear topsheet to show the different layers of fiberglass.

Manufacturers will sometimes also place carbon fiber and kevlar stringers inside the skis to further enhance stability and performance.

STEP SIX: TOPSHEET The topsheet is applied last and offers the ski manufacturer a place for artistic flair. ROKO topsheets showcase designs by local artists.

Akira prints the topsheets in-house, onto a plastic sheet, which will go into the press with the other layers of the ski.

After all these layers are glued together, from base to topsheet, the ski is placed into a metal mold and sent into a press, where uniform pressure and heat sets the shape.

After the shape is set, the skis are pulled out of the mold to cool down for cutting. Any excess material is cut and the edges sharpened by hand. ROKO will wait for the epoxy to fully cure until the ski is ready to accept bindings.

STEP SEVEN: TEST Once skis have gone through prototyping, developing, and crafting, they must be tested.

ROKO skis are tested and ridden by ex-ski patrol, instructors, and guides, all of whom have an intimate understanding of the snow conditions in this region of Hokkaido.

Uchiyama prides himself in the distinction that these skis are made for Niseko riders

by Niseko riders and that the head engineer, Ishiyama Akhito, is himself, ex-ski patrol. By understanding and having a common language with which they can talk deeply about handling characteristics, ROKO has managed to create a diverse lineup of skis.

Like the relationship between test driver and pit crew, Akihito, can quickly take feedback from test riders, translate that onto the CAD program and churn out another prototype

Akihito Ishiyama

in under a week. The test cycles of these Hokkaido bred skis takes on a seasonally scheduled cycle. Sometimes, the testing window is after all summer and autumn.

As a result, the skis they will be testing and prototyping this winter will be available in the next seasons if they can nail down that elusive feeling and share it with the world.

The ride quality and longevity of skis depend on the rider and use. Uchiyama says that in his experience, someone who rides everyday should change skis every two seasons because skis will become soft and sluggish.

Someone who rides a few weeks a season can ride up to seven or eight seasons before the sluggishness of older skis will become apparent.

THE BOTTOM LINE At the end of the day, the most important factor in skiing enjoyment is enthusiasm and a love for snow. As Uchiyama has shown us, ski design, handling, and character can contribute to that feeling, and if you know what you’re looking for, however elusive, the hunt for the perfect skis can be a rewarding journey. ■Visit www.rokoniseko.jp

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EXPERIENCE NISEKO 55

Peak Condition Team together function and fashion with the stylish gear at Zaka

Moncler Bruche The Bruche aims to provide the ultimate in high-end warmth and comfort. Thanks to well-thought-out tailoring and tapering, this jacket cuts a very flattering silhouette whether you’re descending the groomers or hitting the après scene. It comes with a silky exterior and lining, pure goose down insulation, powder skirt, chin guard and a stylish pull-waist belt.

Fera Grace Sweater This beautiful, feminine sweater has been knitted using a merino blend fabric to provide warmth while still maintaining a fitted look. Its Nordic pattern is both eye-catching and ‘on trend’ and will transition from the mountain to the fireplace with ease.

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Nils Monique Sweater Nils’ midlayers aim to enhance the performance of their outerlayers by maintaining body temperatures. Wear your beautiful Monique Sweater out on the mountain on a cold day or with jeans in front of the fire or at the bar!

Fera Danielle Fera is an American snow apparel brand that seamlessly blends function with fashion. The Danielle ladies’ ski jacket is the perfect example of Fera’s unique ability to tie in style with technical features like 10K waterproofing, super warm insulation, integrated powder skirt and a breathable stretch shell fabric.

Spyder Diabla Jacket Fashion and function are inseparable in the sophisticated, well-equipped Diabla Real Fur Jacket. Clean and minimalistic design meets contemporary touches like ruched side panels, reflective taping around the zippers, and a removable genuine silver fox fur-trimmed hood. GORE WINDSTOPPER and 60g PrimaLoft Silver insulation are a sure bet for all-weather.

Moncler Beanie This highly insta-worthy beanie is a favourite with influencers all over the globe. Made from luxurious cashmere with an eye-catching fox fur pom pom, it’s a favourite from the streets to the slopes.

Moncler Joux The Joux is a technical jacket with a metropolitan flair, addressing the need for luxury and fashion for those who want a mountain-inspired look without sacrificing style.

The lightness of the technical fabrics marries with the warm badger fur, resulting in elegance and sophistication.

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Bogner Helsinki Men’s Boots These premium boots are made with a combination of felt and leather to keep your feet warm and dry while you tread the snowy streets. They are lined with wool for warmth and comfort while the extra grippy sole is sure to keep you stable.

Nils Ethyl Bib Pant Nils is a women’s specific snow wear brand that focuses on fit, style and performance. They are known for designing pants that are comfortable and look great.

The Ethyl Bib Pant is not only ‘on trend’, it’s high-rise style front keeps warmth in and snow out.

Shop new season fashion at Zaka - 2nd Floor at Odin Place

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BASELAYERS

What to Wear Backcountry This season, take note of these tips and tricks from the pros at Rhythm Summit

Taking a trip beyond the resort boundaries can be an exhilarating experience. Imagine setting your sites on a spectacular peak or a powder filled glade and then getting there completely under your own steam. Once you arrive at the top it’s time to shed the skins, shake off the sweat, take a photo and then reap the rewards by making your own fresh lines from top to bottom.

Then, if you’re really feeling it, you can slap the skins back on and do it all over again.

In Niseko we’re lucky to be surrounded by some easy access back and side country, perfect for adventurous skiers and snowboarders. The most important thing, however, is safety, particularly when it comes to what you wear. Remember, weather conditions can change quickly so it’s best to be prepared for anything. Here are some items we recommend packing or wearing for your next trek into the winter wilderness.

As a general rule, you want baselayers that are made from a high-quality fabric like merino wool or a wool-synthetic blend. Baselayers must be able to wick moisture away from your body, which will help regulate your temperature while you sweat, keeping you cool while you hike and them warm on the descent.

Oyuki Merino Baselayer Another brand using 100% merino wool, Oyuki’s high quality baselayer tops are designed to fit in a relaxed way while still keeping riders warm and dry.

Mons Royale Shorn Off ¾ Legging These leggings are cut at a ¾ length to keep them above boot height. The thick elastic waist band keeps them from slipping. Made from 100% merino wool, these baselayers will do the job perfectly.

MIDLAYERS A midlayer sits between your baselayer and jacket. Again, breathability and moisture wicking capabilities are of the highest importance so make sure you purchase something made with wool, down or a high-quality synthetic material.

You can either go for a jersey style midlayer or, if you really feel the cold, a puffy insulator.

Mons Royale Decade Tech Mid Jacket This is a brushed merino fleece jacket that will stay super warm even when wet.

A storm flap will stop the wind so you can wear it as an outerlayer while you hike.

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Armada Gremin 60g Insulator Jacket Filled with Primaloft insulation, this jacket is perfect for hiking on super cold days or for those who really feel the chill. It comes in a relaxed fit and includes a soft chin guard, wrist gaiters and inside pockets.

OUTERWEAR For hiking and touring it’s best to finish your layering off with a lightweight waterproof and breathable shell. These kinds of jackets are super versatile and easy to carry if you get hot during the ascent.

You’ll also be protected if the weather turns nasty.

Arcteryx Stinger bib pant This is a hardwearing, efficiently designed waterproof GORE-TEX Pro bib for complete protection on deep powder days

Arcteryx Rush Jacket This Gore-Tex Pro jacket has been built with big mountain climbs and descents in mind. It is comfortable and durable while also being breathable, waterproof and windproof.

ACCESSORIES Preparing for a backcountry ski or snowboard mission is all about having the accessories you need while keeping weight and bulk at bay. Here are a few things we recommend you don’t leave behind:

Oyuki Haika The Oyuki Haika three-in-one glove-liner combination is the most versatile hand accessory available. Mix and match the glove-liner depending on weather conditions or to regulate your body temperature.

Face, Neck, & Head Protection Depending on what you feel comfortable in, you’ll want to pack or wear a beanie, neckwarmer and/or balaclava. Check out the range in store from Niseko-based brand Oyuki and you’re sure to find something that will suit your style.

Oakley Flight Deck This mid-size goggle comes with Oakley’s Prizm lens, which is guaranteed to provide an unrivalled point of view. The lenses are interchangeable so remember to always pack a spare just in case conditions change.

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Ways to Wellness Restore balance, enhance your wellbeing and let life’s worries melt away with these top ways to look after yourself in Niseko.

WORDS: KIRSTEN FAIRBAIRN

01 01 Swim

02 Stretch

Swimming can offer light resistance exercise to release the heavy pressure put on knees, ankles and other joints during snowsports. Take the pressure off your overworked joints and swim some laps in Hotel Niseko Alpen swimming pool, available for public access. Open from midday to 9:30pm, they also offer full rental including swimsuits, goggle and caps.

Relax and reward your body after a day on the slopes or settle into a peaceful mind retreat with a yoga session with Powder Yoga. They offer drop in prices as well as weekly memberships for those who want to relieve their muscles, and mind, throughout their stay. Private lessons can also be offered in your apartment or the spacious yoga studio.

08

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02

04

07

03

03 Float

06 Refresh

Ryko Spa at Skye Niseko is home to Hokkaido’s first float tank, a weightlessness technology enabling extreme relaxation, perfect for sports recovery and meditation. Hotel and day guests are able to float and allow their muscles to release all tension without the pressure of gravity.

From purifying and moisturising facials to detoxifying scrubs and body wraps, there is a treatment for every need at Niseko’s newest wellness addition, Ryko Spa. Treatments are also available in packages and full-day treatments for those who need a break from the snow.

04 Soak

07 Release

If you are yet to experience onsen, they are mineral rich public hot spring baths, very popular in Japan as a relaxing outing. Not all onsen are created equal, however, with the mineral makeup of the water providing unique benefits such as skin beautification, joint pain relief and even bruise healing. Try Yugokorotei in Annupuri with complimentary massage chairs, Kanro no Mori with private onsen for day guests and Yukichichibu with unique mud onsen (available to women) which is said to beautify skin.

05 Sweat To release some endorphins and work up a sweat off the slopes, hit up the local gyms in Niseko. Both the Aya Gym and M Hotel Gym offer non-guest passes and house a range of cardio equipment and weights. For those looking for a more intense workout with experienced guidance, Niseko’s first CrossFit Box, Niseko CrossFit, is scheduled to open in Kutchan Town in January.

For quintessential relaxation and post-ski recovery, there is a wide range of massage options from deep tension relieving to more peaceful massages such as hot stone.

There are many highly qualified massage therapists in Niseko such as Hermosa Angel and Arigatou Massage, offering treatments within your apartment too, so you can stay toasty indoors.

08 Nourish It’s easy to eat well in Niseko, known for its fresh produce and clean agriculture. Many local farms are advocates of organic farming and restaurants will often advertise their use of local produce. Local favourite, Green Farm Café, has this farm-to-fork ethos and have relocated this winter and can be found on the ground floor of the Shiki building. Also try Skye Niseko Café Deli for healthy grab-and-go eats produced locally with tasty local produce.

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Breathe In, Ski Out

Yoga and snowsports may seem like yin and yang, however the art of yogic breathing could be just the secret to the perfect line, as wellness mentor and Spa Consultant for Skye Niseko’s Ryko Spa, Ryko Kalinko writes.

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SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING ARE THE arts of navigating a snow-slope fast, and yoga is the art of unifying the mind, body and breath. It was perhaps inevitable that these arts should collide.

The goals of both are the same: to use the body in the optimal way necessary to traverse the conditions at hand, and in so doing, reach a transcendental state of being.

Which skier or snowboarder doesn’t long for that blissful moment of unification when the body, mountain, mind and movement become one?

The thrill of being in this state is the very reason that people keep coming back to the mountain. That there is such a blissful feeling in this unification which is also the force behind yoga. Though how is this state reached? In one sentence: full absorption in the whole situation, balancing perfectly all the forces (physical and psychological) and acting on it.

Imagine someone coming down a mountain on a set of skis or a snowboard: what is that person’s “situation”? The slope

gradient, the nature of the ski or snowboard material; the condition of the body; the forces of movement; the weather; other people and objects around; one’s emotions, ideas and objectives. The key is being fully present with all of it, coordinating according to one’s highest concept (which may just be “having fun”).

For yogis, the breath is a critical part of every situation. It is seen as a reflection and a summary of one’s fundamental relationship with nature. It is also a guiding principle that can lead us into deeper parts of ourselves where we discover great resources.

Yogis work with the breath in three ways: the controlled breath, the uncontrolled breath and coordinating movement with breath.

THE CONTROLLED BREATH When we are nervous, anxious, stressed or excited, our breathing rate increases and we breathe more shallowly. By the same token, when we are calm and contented,

Opposite page: photo by Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki; Left: Powder Yoga’s Kanami Anderson

breath–by letting go of all control.

One such exercise is called “conscious involuntary breathing”, where the attention remains firmly focused on the movement of the breath but with absolutely no voluntary directing of the process. One watches oneself “being breathed by breath”, rather than “intentionally breathing”.

This technique helps to deepen the breath, calm the mind, and relax the body.

It is excellent as a tool to use in conscious relaxation for the purpose of exercise recovery, like in the post-ski cooldown.

COORDINATING MOVEMENT AND BREATH

our breathing rate slows down and becomes deeper. An interesting feature of the breath is that this association is bi-directional; the mind-states affect the breath and the breath affects these mind-states.

That means we can use the breath to pull ourselves out of an unwanted mindstate. The diaphragm can act as a manual switch which we can use to restore even-mindedness.

Take for example, you are at the top of a ski run. It is unfamiliar terrain. If you are scared, even slightly, your breathing increases and your heart rate increases. As a result of this, you become less focused and more prone to make a mistake.

Learning how to control the breath is perfect for this situation. Before setting off, you begin your breathing exercise. It could be as simple as intentionally breathing in deeply through your nose, holding the breath for three seconds and then exhaling through pursed lips very slowly.

If you are practiced, it only takes two or three minutes until your breathing has

deepened and your heart rate settled. You are then in a much better frame of mind to tackle the terrain. You are more focused and are better able to enjoy yourself.

There are also controlled breath exercises which have the effect of warming the body. This is a very practical skill to have for winter sports!

Yogis have long retreated to high mountain passes to meditate. These were often cold and snowy regions where these exercises were key in keeping the yogi alive. In fact, there was even a way to judge the power of the yogi by the largeness of the diameter of snow that had melted around their meditating position. One of these warming exercises is the Tibetan Tummo practice involving breath-holds and visualisation techniques.

THE UNCONTROLLED BREATH While controlled breath exercises require a measure of force with respect to the breath, there is also a benefit to be found in exactly the opposite way of working with the

Coordinating movement and breath is a fundamental tenet of yoga as well as all martial arts. The breath is considered to be the master rhythm of the body, with the ability to control all other rhythms, such as the heart beat, the waves of the nervous system and the cycles at which the brain processes data.

When breath and movement are coordinated over a long period of time the result is a smoother functioning of all inner processes and an overall feeling of harmony of the mind, body and situation.

For skiers and snowboarders, the breath has to be coordinated with the terrain in order to achieve this harmonising effect; in other words, skiing or snowboarding maneuvers become “breath-driven”.

For example, inhale before the turns. As we inhale, it makes our bodies feel lighter, this facilitates the “unweighting” which assists the body to turn. The exhalation takes place after the turn to “weigh down” the downward edge of the ski or board. The inhalation should be short and powerful, and the exhalation long and smooth to control the traverse of the turn. This breathing pattern can match all kinds of terrain, and will make the run much smoother and more enjoyable.

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Body Work Having spent the past 14 winters managing Niseko Physio, BEVAN COLLESS has come to learn that taking care of your body prior to, and during your trip, is essential to the best ski holiday.

AS MANY PREPARE FOR A WELL-EARNED HOLIDAY to the snow-filled mountains in Japan, I thought some information and tips on how to avoid finding yourself in one of our clinics could be of help. Once-a-year-skiers, living sedentary lives are at the highest risk of injury. The balance and strength required for skiing are quite a shock to bodies that are conditioned to long periods sitting each day.

The best way to prepare your body for the rigors of skiing is to make it strong and agile before you arrive for your holiday. Over-gear cycling, HIIT classes, racquet sports and hiking are all great ways to prepare your body for skiing or snowboarding. Many physios and personal trainers run specific “Get Fit to Ski” classes, which are a great idea if available in your area. If you are already on your ski holiday and lead a mostly sedentary life, don’t despair as you can still work to get the most out of your holiday.

Warming-up has a lot of research behind it so make sure to begin with an easier run and avoid jumps first run of the day. All the recent research on stretching has shown

it not to be an effective way to prevent injuries or even improve recovery, but it won’t do you any harm either.

Stick to slopes that are within your capabilities but if you do find yourself in a difficult terrain, do everything you can to stay upright and never deliberately fall over. Make sure you take plenty of breaks and don’t ski when overly tired or affected by alcohol.

At the end of the day a sports massage is one of the best ways to refresh the legs and prepare them for another day. A good massage should be deep and be borderline uncomfortable–a skin polish won’t help the muscles recover.

Although ice-baths have been shown to be effective for impact sports, they are nowhere near as enjoyable as a hot spring bath. The Japanese swear by the recuperative powers of an onsen, so when in Rome, go for it! It’s a good idea to finish an onsen with a long dip in the cold “plunge pool” which will give the whole body a wake-up call. Try to stay in as long as you can–60 seconds is a good effort!

BEVAN’S TOP TIPS

1 2 3

Make sure both skis release from the bindings well.

Take care at the bottom of the run when turning around to see friends coming down.

Don’t ski aggressively when you are tired– it is usually the last run of the day that causes the injury.

4 5 6

Don’t get up too soon when you are falling or sliding–wait until you stop.

Never deliberately fall over out of frustration.

Don’t ski after drinking.

7 8 9

Wear a helmet (especially kids) and beginner snowboarders should wear wrist guards.

Commence a strengthening program a minimum of six weeks before your trip.

Although stretching before skiing will not help, ensure you warm-up by doing an easy run first.

Rescuing Holidays in Niseko since 2005.

Don’t let an injury keep you off the slopes.

We’ll rescue your holiday. ✔ Over 13 years helping Niseko’s Skiers and Snowboarders ✔ Conveniently Located in Australia House Opposite Seicomart ✔ Sports and Remedial Massage ✔ Travel Insurance Claimable

Australian Physios

Tel: 0136-22-0399 Australia House B1, Yamada 170-5, Kutchan-cho www.nisekophysio.com *We do not see fractures, dislocations or other serious injury. These conditions should go directly to Kutchan Hospital.

A S I A P H Y S I O N E T W O R K T O K Y O • N I S E K O • H A K U B A • N O Z A W A • MY O K O K O G E N • S I N G A P O R E • K U A L A L U M P U R

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 65

Float Away Gravity is something we deal with all the time, but what if we could escape it? Ryko Kalinko, Spa Consultant for Skye Niseko’s Ryko Spa and wellness expert, explains why a soak in Hokkaido’s first “float tank” is the new level in relaxation.

PHOTO: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

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G

ravity is always acting on the body; no matter what position we are in, there are always some muscles which have to work to deal with this force. The job of muscles, it could be said, is precisely this: to support our bodies within gravity. As long as gravity is present, there is some kind of muscular effort going on in the body.

This means there is no complete rest as long as gravity is present. Even lying down requires the use of some muscles, and so it cannot give total rest; even though by comparison to other postures, much less muscular contraction is needed. And this is why it is ordinarily our rest position of choice.

There are few places on the planet where gravity can be escaped from completely. One is the Dead Sea in Israel.

It is the lowest place on earth–or rather, its shoreline is the lowest land on earth. It is ironic that this fact makes it a place where gravity can be escaped.

The force of gravity brings minerals from the surrounding mountains to concentrate in the centre of this especially low place, and the concentration of minerals is so extreme that the water becomes dense enough to hold a human body up. In this environment, we float, and can achieve a state of “weightlessness”.

With this weightlessness we are able to let go completely of all muscular effort. The result is a profound state of relaxation that is difficult to achieve anywhere else; however, most excitingly, it is now achievable in Niseko.

Weightlessness It was this quest for a state of total body relaxation that prompted researchers in the 1950’s to invent places that mimic this weightlessness property of the Dead Sea. The result is what is today called a “float tank” where people can go to have this experience of weightlessness and ultimate relaxation.

This kind of extreme relaxation is exceptionally therapeutic. The “relaxation response” has long been studied scientifically. It has been found that relaxation boosts immunity, increases blood circulation, improves digestion, increases fertility, lowers stress hormones, reduces the symptoms of muscle injury, and has even been found to be able to suppress genes that have a role in disease.

Healing Minerals The float tank is a contained body of water suffused with Epsom salts–in fact, the tanks used today are of a salinity double that of the Dead Sea. The Epsom salts that are used in a float tank to create weightlessness are themselves extremely beneficial. It is not actually a salt but a naturally occurring pure mineral compound of magnesium and sulfate.

The sulfate part of the compound is a detoxification agent. It strips cells of heavy metals, free radicals and other toxins, and increases the body’s ability to absorb

nutrients. Magnesium is an essential nutrient that is used by the body for hundreds of processes. In particular, it is the mineral the body needs to shift a muscle from a contracted state to a rest-state.

Due to these healing properties, Epsom salts have been used widely for hundreds of years as a home remedy for a variety of ailments. People usually put them in a bath and soak with them, however in much lower doses than is found in a float tank.

A Sense of Self The third aspect of the float tank that makes it a healing experience is that there is no, or little, external stimulation. The parts of the brain that are usually charged with responding to the environment do not have to work and can shut down. This conserves vast amounts of energy resources within the body, allowing that extra energy to be utilised for internal cleaning and maintenance, and when that has completed, for insight and creativity.

The Smile of the Buddha When you step into a float tank, what happens? You float, and then what? You are confronted with the layers of yourself. For some people this is terrifying; for others, this presents a possibility for discovery.

What do people do with this opportunity for complete rest? Some people use the time to think through things.

Others, to learn to relax one’s everyday thoughts and concerns, and enter into the deeper layers of the mind.

As Lee Perry, one of the early experimenters with floating (and the wife of the person who invented the float tank) said: “When you’re floating in the tank, it is as if your body doesn’t exist any longer; you don’t feel it. It melts away, but you are still there. You’re watching that. So even though you don’t have a body–matter, you still exist. And that is a new perception for people”.

There is an interesting story about artisans living in Japan in the early post-Buddhic period who were commissioned to make statues of the meditating Buddha. They were faced with a question: what would the expression be of someone who had thoroughly merged with their deepest essence?

There was a rivalry between these artisans as to who could capture most accurately the facial expression of someone sitting in the contentment of their deepest self. Some sought out masters whose expression during meditation they could model. Some became meditation masters themselves to experience personally the inner state. The result of these explorations was a certain enigmatic smile.

The smile of the Buddha that we see on statues of the Buddha today is the reassurance we have that what we will discover deep in ourselves, if we give ourselves the chance, is something to smile about.

Ready to float? Contact Ryko Spa at Skye Niseko, www.rykospa.com

■

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 67

POWDER PARADISE Breathtaking scenery, pristinely-soft snow and unimaginable lines all come with the territory in Niseko, as photographers Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki and Dale Goulding discover.

Hang Time Secret Spot, March 2018 Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki: Josh Sellens, charging like usual, catches some hang time.

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Winter Vista Farmland nearby Niseko Town, January 2018 Dale Goulding: Two-shot horizontal panorama stitched together in post.

This Page: Boostin’ Secret Spot, February 2018 Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki: Chad Whittaker of Utah whips out of a turn.

Opposite Page: Deep Days of November Mount Annupuri, November 2017 Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki: Ivan Alonso trenching deep in some early season riding.

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Crash Course Secret Spot, March 2018 Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki: Saki Chow charging in the backcountry.

The Traverse Niseko Backcountry, March 2017 Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki: Peter Bagger Kyed on day one of the classic Niseko to Iwanai ski traverse.

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Down Town & Yotei Niseko Town, January 2018 Dale Goulding: Shot from bridge Niseko Ohashi overlooking sleepy, snowy Niseko Town.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 73

Snow All Out WHETHER YOU’RE AN ADRENALINE SEEKER OR LOOKING FOR A SLOWER PACED HOLIDAY, HERE ARE JUST SOME OF GREAT ON-SNOW ACTIVITIES TO HAVE YOU SOAKING UP NISEKO IN THE OUTDOORS. WORDS: KIRSTEN FAIRBAIRN

CHILL CROSS COUNTRY TOURING A slow and relaxed walk over the buried farms of Niseko, NAC also offers private tours on light cross-country skis, designed for easy snow hiking and downhill gliding. This tour is perfect for families of all skiing abilities, with a minimum age of six years.

PHOTOGRAPHY What better way to commemorate your time nearby Mt Yotei than with a snowy field photoshoot, or action shots of your best trick.

Niseko Photography & Guiding specialise in both fun family photos and serious on snow skill capturing and even run photography workshops.

TREE-TREKKING Climb through the trees of an evergreen forest overlooking a ski run at the unique and challenging NAC Adventure Park. There are many courses to try at a range of difficulty levels and many different obstacles to navigate including moving steps and zip lining, all while safely strapped into a harness system that cannot be removed from the supports.

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SNOWSHOEING Wonder through the wilderness of Niseko with this relaxing guided tour to Crater Lake, beside Mt Yotei, or up the Shiribetsu River depending on conditions. The Niseko Adventure Center (NAC) offer either shorter day trips or night tours under the stars, and can be booked as private or group tours, though complimentary pick up is provided for private tours.

IGLOO BUILDING Learn how to build a snow home from scratch, from carving the snow blocks to shaping the dome, with the help of the Niseko Outdoor Centre. Groups of two or more people can spend 2.5 hours finding out how these unique dwellings are built and maintained.

RIDE THE GONDOLA To get the perfect Mt Yotei views from the midway point of Mt Annupuri, guests are able to take the Hirafu Gondola up, walk through the snow and snap photos then ride the Gondola back down, no skis required.

THRILL SNOWMOBILING White Ilse Snowmobiling offers a safe but exhilarating ride with no experience necessary. Guided by a professional, guests can ride tandem or solo through a range of courses with the option of higher performance snowmobiles. As the course is located in Weiss snowfields, they also offer hotel pickups for your convenience.

SNOW BIKING For those seeking a new adventure, snow bikes are can be described as motorbikes on skis. Best suited to experienced motorbike riders looking to test their abilities on a new terrain.

Niseko Snowbike Adventures offer group and private tours with hotel pick up to make the adventure not only smooth on the snow but also before and after.

TUBING For the young and the young at heart, Hanazono Tube Park offers a unique tube slide park for anyone aged 3 and up. Ride alone or in a lap, hold on tight or lift your arms to the sky. Found at the base of Hanazono, the park can be accessed by the slopes or the free shuttle bus from Hirafu.

SNOW RAFTING A once in a lifetime experience, or maybe two if you have the time, Niseko Village offers unique snow rafting tours. Towed by a cruising snowmobile, you will sit clinging to a rubber raft, but do not worry, helmets are included.

Available in Niseko Village, by taxi or local bus.

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GO OFF-SNOW Be it immersing yourself in Japanese culture, learning to cook the local way, or visiting other areas of Hokkaido, there’s plenty to do off-the-snow in Niseko.

WORDS: EVAN JOHNSON

Tea Ceremony One of the most authentic Japanese experiences available to Niseko visitors is a traditional Japanese tea ceremony.

How the drink is served, how to drink it and even what topics you should speak of while participating are highly ritualised. One place to take part is in the tea room at Somoza. This beautiful, 150-year-old repurposed Japanese homestead sits amidst the peaceful snowy forest in Hanazono.

■ www.somoza.jp

Photo: Somoza

Cooking Classes Mention Hokkaido to most Japanese people from ‘the south’ and the first thing they think about is not the snow, it’s the food! Ramen noodles, soba noodles, king-crab, salmon sashimi, wagyu beef, ice-cream –you name it, it’s better up here in the north. Prepare and eat your own traditional Hokkaido dish under the expert tuition of the chefs at the Niseko Outdoor Center in Higashiyama.

■ www.noc-hokkaido.jp

Indoor Rock Climbing

Glasswork Workshops

Day Tours

Ice Cream Making

Step inside the Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC) and it’s impossible to miss the 11-metre-high rock-climbing wall. Featuring a variety of grades appropriate for beginners through to experts, this is a great activity to burn some unused energy or stretch out your skiing limbs. For those who’d prefer not to raise a sweat and simply watch on instead, there’s a bar!

Glass Doumo is a cute little gallery with a range of handmade glassware and trinkets on display. But the real fun to be had is partaking in a sandblasting workshop and making your own ‘glass-terpiece’. The resident glassmaker will teach you the craft of glass working, culminating in you being able to take away your own signature glass as a souvenir!

While Niseko is a destination for a dedicated holiday in its own right, it is also the perfect base for exploring broader Hokkaido.

SkyExpress offer a range of private day tours to the best sights. Explore the charming port city of Otaru or the bright lights of Sapporo. Snap your way through a tour of Niseko and surrounding areas, or take in the serenity of Lake Toya.

Try your hand at ice-cream making at Niseko’s Milk Kobo. A famous name among Hokkaido foodies, trying some delicious soft serve ice cream or a fresh cream puff is a must. Ice cream making workshops are also available on appointment.

■ www.nacadventures.jp

■ www.glass-doumu.com

■ www.skyexpress.jp

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■ www.niseko-takahashi.jp/ milkkobo/

Your Niseko holiday, your way With the largest range of accommodation in Niseko and exceptional service, Niseko Central can accommodate all of your needs and make your winter holiday an unforgettable experience.

ď‚• 0136 23 3503 ď€ƒ stay@nisekocentral.com

www.nisekocentral.com EXPERIENCE NISEKO 77

Get Soaked WORDS: KIRSTEN FAIRBAIRN

W

hile gender separated public onsen or “hot springs” are commonplace in Japan, some offer a little extra. For those who have conquered the onsen experience, the Niseko Grand Hotel onsen in Annupuri provides the natural next step—a mixed gender onsen.

Onsen is a uniquely Japanese experience; bathing in mineral rich, steaming hot water, completely naked in a public pool. Many foreign visitors while at first sceptical, are easily swayed by the comfortable and relaxing experience, and the health and beauty benefits.

A mixed gender onsen allows the unique opportunity to bathe together; with your partner, your friends, your family. It is natural to flinch at the notion; would people look, judge, comment? What is often forgotten is the essence of onsen, that it is not to be sexualised and not a time or place to look. It is a time to relax, completely and totally as you are most naturally.

Once you get past the first few deep breaths, it is surprising easy to relax into the peaceful atmosphere.

For those not completely comfortable with the full mixed onsen experience, the Niseko Grand Hotel offers to women a bathing gown, a yuami-gi, to cover if they wish, and also has gender separate indoor and outdoor pools. The onsen is described as a rotenburo, an open-air bath, and is the largest in the area, so there is plenty of space and privacy, if you do venture into the konyoku (mixed bath).

Originally all baths were konyoku, wherever the thermal spring appeared, that is where the people would bathe. In the Edo era of Samurai and Ninjas, it was common to find men and women relaxing together in a hot spring. At this time, Japan had completely closed its borders to the rest of the world; no trade, no tourism and therefore no scrutiny.

After opening the gates of Japan, mixed onsen was seen as scandalous and uncivilised by the thenconservative America. Restrictions and laws were put in place to prevent further spread of konyoku by the government, seeking acceptance from the western world.

While onsen are still wildly popular across Japan, only a small portion of mixed onsen remain. We are lucky enough to claim one in Niseko.

This onsen has more to it than simply bringing people together, it also makes them beautiful and healthy. The Niseko Grand Hotel has a uniquely high proportion of meta-silicic acid, almost five-times the standard amount in an onsen. While this sounds worrisome, this component actually promotes collagen and skin metabolism, for a beautifying effect.

The combination of compounds in the onsen spring water creates an unusual milky white colour and works in several ways to soothe the body. Sodium chloride acts to relieve joint, muscle and nerve pains, perfect for an aftermountain soak, and carbonation is said to soften the skin while increasing metabolism and blood circulation.

The Niseko Grand Hotel is also famous in its own right, after the Emperor stayed in 1954 during his tour after World War II. After proclaiming the spring water as “sweet” the spring was named kanrosui (sweetwater).

A popular place for locals and tourists to collect water, the famed spring is also rich in silica, beneficial to skin, hair and nail growth.

With authentic Japanese garden design, surrounded by a forest of conifers and white birch trees, this onsen has a truly relaxing atmosphere. The Niseko Grand Hotel is popular for those wishing to experience a more Japanese hospitality, with an inhouse restaurant with breakfast and dinner included, shuttle access to ski areas and unlimited free access to this unique and interesting onsen.

ONSEN ETIQUETTE

1 2 3 78 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Always be sure to wash thoroughly at the shower stations before entering the onsen–hygiene is of the utmost importance in all onsen.

Tie your hair up to ensure it doesn’t go into the water.

You can take a hand towel in but do not put it in the water, it is for modesty and drying off after.

4 5

Do not wear clothing into the onsen.

Tattoos are accepted in some Niseko onsen, however take note this is not the case in many onsen outside of Niseko and you may be refused entry.

6 7 8

You may choose whether to wash after onsen. Some think the minerals will soak into the skin more if you do not.

Photography is strictly prohibited. Leave all phones and cameras in the changing room.

Be courteous and polite. Onsen are a relaxing and peaceful place.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 79

STARTING FROM

ZERO WORDS & PHOTO: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

LEARNING A NEW SPORT CAN BE intimidating, especially one as dynamic and thrilling as skiing. The beauty of skiing is that you can take it anywhere from cruising on nice, fast groomers to flying down a chute on Mt Yotei. It is a sport that anyone can enjoy, and is probably one of the best ways to experience winter.

The following are some tips I have come to learn on my skiing journey.

FITNESS The best preparations for learning how to ski will be coming to Niseko with ski-ready fitness. The stronger your legs, core, and balance are, the easier it will be to pick up skiing. Even without snow, you can focus on cross training by running, cycling, and working on balance. Get familiar with leg burn, as this is the sensation that comes from the forces of skiing and supporting many times your weight on turns, especially if you progress quickly.

Once you arrive to the slopes with your built up fitness, you will have the added benefit of being able to spend more time on the mountain without fatiguing. This leads to the next step, which is nutrition. Notice, none of these factors involve skiing, which means these are things you can control long before arriving to Niseko.

NUTRITION Eat a calorie dense meal in the hours before skiing, but not too soon before, as the body will be spending energy breaking down heavy proteins, fats and fibers, which can cause sluggishness. By eating calorie dense meals in the hours before riding and hydrating properly throughout the day, you will be better fueled to keep riding hard 80 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

and progressing. With all the amazing eateries around Niseko, this should not be a problem!

You can also extend your performance by eating and drinking while riding.

Lift and gondola rides are good places to top up on snacks high in carbohydrates, as these foods break down quickly to supply glucose to your muscles, which need to be putting out power for extended periods of time. Without glucose, there will not be glycogen, which is the readily available state of energy stored in your muscles and liver. When riding all day (you can ride from 8:30am to 8:30pm at Grand Hirafu when nightskiing is open), you will want to keep topped up on glycogen to avoid the dreaded “bonk” or “wall.”

Onigiri (think salmon or tuna wrapped in rice and seaweed) are the perfect balance of carbohydrates and in some cases, a bit of protein, which will break down a bit slower.

GEAR Although learning on any pair of skis will be fine as a beginner (think rentals or used skis), boots are a different story. If you are blessed with the perfect feet for ski boots, count yourself lucky, as most of us have to get custom boots to a certain degree for comfort. Boots that do not send pain into your feet or legs are critical in learning properly and staying out on the slopes for longer. You can consult a boot-fitter back in your home country or one in Niseko, who can make all the adjustments necessary for all-day comfort.

The only other crucial piece of gear would be a good set of goggles that do not fog. Zero visibility is one way to quickly shut

down your riding, especially in tree runs and variable snow conditions.

Dressing for weather is important, as conditions, especially higher up on the mountain, can vary greatly throughout the day. Layering intelligently will keep you riding more comfortably. Temperatures plummet when the sun sets, so if you are planning on night riding, keep that in mind.

LEARNING Taking lessons from qualified professionals can make the learning curve much smaller.

They will have experience taking someone from no experience to riding. Learning from friends can be great, but if they are not instructors, they may have a hard time articulating exactly what they mean to say.

Skiing is not inherently as natural and intuitive as say cycling, and a good instructor can help you get to the point where on-snow skills become muscle memory.

AFTER After a hard day out, be sure to visit some of the many local onsen in the area.

Heat therapy can help boost recovery by increasing blood flow and cold baths can help reduce inflammation. Now is also the perfect time to take on a calorie and nutrition dense meal, as your body will need to rebuild through the night as you sleep for the next day of lessons and riding.

Although all these tips can help boost your chances of going from no skiing experience to riding a top to bottom line, the most important tip is to have fun and enjoy yourself! Persistence is key to getting over the learning curve because once you find the joy in skiing, all the leg burning, awkward turns, and falling will be worth it.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 81

A Work of Art After all the action in the snow, spend some time away in the quiet galleries of Niseko and appreciate the local art space.

Arishima Takeo Memorial Museum

WORDS: VICTORIA YAP

Somoza Café & Gallery

Somoza

With its full-length glass windows looking out to the enchanting winter scenery, appreciate a collection of art work and pottery in this serene gallery. Enjoy the serene atmosphere with a coffee or book a traditional tea ceremony.

Where: Hanazono Phone: 0136-55-8741 Open: 11:00am - 4:00pm closed Sundays except Christmas, New Years and CNY period.

Arishima Takeo Memorial Museum

Dedicated to the Japanese novelist Takeo Arishima, find out more about his intriguing life story in Niseko during the late Meiji period.

Have a cup of coffee made from local brand, Takano Coffee, while reading the novelist’s prized work in the café.

Where: Niseko Town Phone: 0136 - 44 – 3245 Open: 9:00am - 5:00pm (admission until 4:30pm); Closed Monday and Public Holidays.

Galerie RAM

See how local artist Masafumi Sawada is inspired by Hokkaido’s wildlife and outdoors.

The small gallery displays over 30 intricate sculptures and pieces created from steel.

Artwork is available for purchase and international shipping.

Where: Kabayama Phone: 0136-21-6818 Open: 11:00am - 5:00pm; Closed on Monday 82 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Shu Ogawara Museum of Art

Appreciate Shu Ogawara’s take on surrealism and expressionism. Walk through the museum and see how the avant-garde painter’s style of artwork changes over the course of his 70-year career.

Where: Kutchan Town Phone: 0136-21–4141 Open: 9:00am - 4:30pm; Closed on Tuesday and Public Holidays.

Galerie RAM

Kiyoe Gallery

Dedicated to giving talented artists in Hokkaido more international exposure, the exhibition at Kiyoe Gallery is always different. Take a look at the range of curated artworks by Japanese artists inspired by Hokkaido.

Where: Niseko-Hirafu Phone: 0136-55-8107 Open: 1:00pm – 8:00pm; open every day.

Kiyoe Gallery

Where the Heart Is

EXPERIENCE NISEKO

VOL. 2 WINTER 2018-19 EXPERIENCENISEKO.COM

Keep an eye out for our Experience Niseko Homes magazine. A real estate focused look ahead to what the future holds for this incredible resort, with profiles of some of the best development partners in town, and plenty of information for you to become a part of Niseko’s future yourself.

84 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

The New Frontier Meet the new face of art in Niseko, Kiyoe Hosokawa.

WORDS SOFIE LAHTINEN PHOTO: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

JAPANESE ART HAS LONG BEEN KNOWN FOR ITS RICH history and deep-rooted traditions–think ink painting and calligraphy, and woodblock prints depicting female beauties and kabuki actors. But there is something new on the horizon, and it’s here in Hokkaido.

Kiyoe Gallery is Niseko’s newest and only art gallery focusing on this new wave of art. Opening in 2016 and born out of a collaboration between gallery curator Kiyoe Hosokawa and Hokkaido artist Kineta Kunimatsu, the gallery celebrates Hokkaido’s emerging artists and this new Japanese aesthetic.

“Hokkaido is such a huge land with the snow and nature, and because of this, Hokkaido artworks are very soft and don’t use bright colours. Artists from countries with a hot climate, like those from Singapore or Jamaica, they use lots of colour but Hokkaido artists use soft colour and it’s so beautiful,” Hosokawa explains.

“Kyoto has a long history and they have old techniques, for example, using gold paper or washi (traditional Japanese paper), but Hokkaido has not got a long history so the art it is quite ‘new’ art.”

“Hokkaido younger artists are trying new techniques with new challenges. Many different materials are used like wood paper, oil on wood, silk screen or acrylic paint on wood and then sandpaper over to show the woodgrain effect,” she says.

Hailing from Kitami, in north-eastern Hokkaido and having spent time aboard in the United Kingdom, Hosokawa moved to Niseko in 2016 to live out her passion project. She believes the new generation of Hokkaido artists have the power to make the new wave, not only in art but also society.

“I think younger artists are very important because of two reasons. Firstly, Hokkaido is a new land without a long history–it’s the new frontier,” she explains.

“Secondly, if I don’t have art in my life, it’s okay, I can live, I can eat food, I can buy clothes but I think art is very important for culture. If I buy art and display it on my wall, I have a good feeling in my life. Art is different to furniture in your home, because artists make art with their mind and their technique, giving the art many meanings.”

Kiyoe Gallery, situated within ski-in ski-out hotel Aya Niseko, is home to around seven resident artists, with the exhibitions altering throughout the year. New artists are featured throughout the seasons as well; the gallery always evolving with something new or favoured.

With sculpture, photography and paintings featured all-year-round, the gallery also hosts some international artworks come the summer time to cater for the increased domestic visitors to Niseko. Seeking and selecting the right artists is a perennial task for Hosokawa, something she manages with her gut instinct.

“The feeling is very important. For example, if at first when I see the artist’s work and I get a good feeling, then I think the artist might also have a good personality. After that I contact the artist and meet with them–I think personality and a warm heart is important,” Hosokawa says.

Hosokawa understands the challenges emerging artists face in their career and aims to aide artists in making art their living. With increased competition to

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 85

sell in galleries in other parts of Hokkaido, Hosokawa is glad she can provide a platform for creatives who otherwise wouldn’t get the chance. And Niseko is the perfect world stage.

“It’s quite interesting this area [Niseko].

Many guests come to here from other countries, so Niseko artists can sell to them their own artworks in their personal galleries, but for example, for Sapporo artists its more difficult to sell in a commercial gallery,” she says. “I want to help young Hokkaido artists.”

Hosokawa believes that while international guests know about Niseko’s famous powder snow they don’t necessarily know about Hokkaido art and culture and thinks the gallery is a great step to change that notion–the gallery also presenting many traditional experiences for guests like tea ceremonies, calligraphy workshops and live Japanese music played on traditional instruments.

“I look forward to showing new artists and new artworks to guests this winter. Many guests want to enjoy the powder snow but I think if they want a Japanese experience, like art or calligraphy, then they should visit.

I want to introduce culture of Hokkaido and Japan to every international guest.”

■ For more information and events, visit www. kiyoegallery.com

86 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

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All That Jazz WORDS: VICTORIA YAP

GET READY TO STAMP YOUR FEET AND bob your head to the beat, all while listening to the energetic performance from Mt. Youtei Jr. Jazz School at their annual performance in Niseko with members of the world-renowned Australian Chamber Orchestra (ACO).

Capturing the audiences’ heart as they step on stage with their sizeable brass instruments (which for some, are bigger than they are!), the kids quickly prove their talent as their first notes are played.

Unafraid to take the stage, they spread an infectious feeling of joy every time they play at Niseko’s musical night of nights.

Performing as the opening act for the ACO event each January, the local band puts on a lively show. The young saxophonists tap away on the gold buttons all in perfect sync, while the drummers keep a consistent beat. Through the bright brass tones, fast tempo and fluid movements, the band’s cheerful spirit never fails to bring smiles to the crowd. Piecing together a brilliant act, it is hard to believe that the youngest member of the band is only seven years old.

Watching over the band at every rehearsal, General Manager of Mt. Youtei Jr. Jazz School, Hiroshi Yamada has seen the children develop since the local jazz school was first formed in 2012. “The children work really hard with the teachers to put on a good performance,” Yamada says.

Behind the scenes, the kids are committed to a demanding practice routine and display an immense amount of professionalism. Attending a vigorous

88 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

four-hour rehearsal fortnightly, the kids don’t stop practicing there. “Because they want everyone to enjoy their show they practice a lot more at home,” Yamada explains.

Composed and confident while performing alongside Richard Tognetti, the acclaimed violinist and the artistic director of the ACO, Yamada believes this is thanks to the children’s past experience. Always the brightest stars of the show, the young talents perform annually at more than 30 events, most notably Sapporo City Jazz, one of the biggest jazz festivals in Japan.

“Before their first show at Sapporo City Jazz, some of the younger children couldn’t sleep the night before because they were nervous about performing on such a big stage! But now they are very calm before performances,” Yamada laughs.

Started as part of a scheme to promote jazz culture to the younger generation, Niseko’s local jazz school has helped the kids discover more than just an interest for music. “Many of the kids join the band because of an interest on playing on stage but also for the opportunity to make friends from all around the world,” Yamada says.

Yamada recalls his fondest memories of the band was during a week-long music exchange trip with children from Switzerland, Germany, the Netherlands and Norway. “Seeing the kids smile as they make international friends and perform together, really made me happy that I am continuing to manage the jazz school.”

“The kids truly enjoy jazz from the bottom of their hearts, so please watch them play at least once.”

Come feel the groove and joy conveyed in their performance. The young and bold Mt. Youtei Jr. Jazz School will play alongside members of the Australian Chamber Orchestra in January 2019, in Niseko.

Performance dates 23rd January 2019: Tanta An; Family-friendly event featuring Mt. Youtei Jr. Jazz School.

Adult and Child tickets available.

25th January 2019: The Orchards; Intimate performance by members of the ACO only with canapés and cocktails. Adult tickets available.

■ Visit our Events page at www.experienceniseko.com for more information

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EXPERIENCE NISEKO 89

niseko.ne.jp

英語／ENGLISH

▲

T R A IL M A P 2 018 -2 019 Resort Boundary

Strictly NO ENTRY at ANY TIME for ANY REASON. Crossing boundary ropes and leaving is strictly prohibited. Use the gates at the ski areas.

There is no safety control or patrol outside the ski areas.

Do not attempt to leave the ski area when the gates is closed.

Daily NISEKO AVALANCHE INFORMATION is OFFICIAL Niseko Rules information.

Search and Rescue efforts WILL BE CHARGED for incident outside resort boundaries.

Obey Ski patrol’s instructions at all times.

Children under 12 must refrain from going out of bounds uniess accompanied by a proficient adult leader. ❾! Niseko Resorts, and the local community respect the freedom of mountain users and place a strong emphasis on THE SAFE USAGE of the mountain.

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■ AED

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Altitude 1,308m

2

Length・Time required・Number of lift ticket points *Lift operating times and courses are subject to change due to weather, snow and light conditions etc.

G11

MIZUNO NO SAWA AVALANCHE CONTROL OPERATION AREA

Mizuno no sawa is a specially controlled area where various methods of avalanche control are employed in the interest of safety.

■Contact: Niseko Village +81-(0)136-44-2211

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 91

Village Map A

B Body Care

Ski Resort

1

C

Lift Ticket Counter

Grand Shuttle - via Main Village

Dining

Hot Spring

Information Map

Accommodation

Day Care Center

Post

Ski School, Outdoor Activity

Information Center

Cards Issued Overseas-compliant ATM

Rental, Tune-up

Travel Company

International Currency Exchange

Shop, Indoor Activity

Medical Facilities

Duty Free Shop

Convenience Store

Real Estate, Developers, Management

D Yorokobi Lodge

Local Bus

Grand Shuttle - via East Village

NISEKO UNITED Shuttle

Hanazono Shuttle - via Lower Village

Heiwa Lodge

Phoenix The W Niseko

Suiboku

Tsumugi Lodge Niseko Wow

Lupicia Pâtisserie

Higashiyama area

Nozomi

ANDARU NISEKO Villas Ultimo Restaurant BARISTART COFFEE

Kabayama North

Black Lodge Powder

Rising Sun Guides

Iki

Kabayama Primary School Ekiraku

u

f ra

HI

Fuu

Gloorious Coffee

ily

am eF Ac

Kabayama House MnK Niseko The Orchards Niseko

Boot Soluti

Rhythm Japan

St.Moritz Log House

Aspara Lodge Aspara Tour

Nozomi Vie

Rhythm Japan

343

Hirafu Main Village Gentemstick Showroom Gentem Café

Alice Umarutei

Amuse Rental

Kabayama Townhouses

Nest at the Trees Blackwood Grill

Always Niseko Elements

Lupicia Restaurant

Hirafu Tomten

Tudibaring

The Trees

The Setsumon

t. views aS ak -Z

Lupicia Boutique

Alpine Estate

The Setsumon

Famille inn Ramina

Niseko Park Hotel Tennis Court Robata Niseko Naniwatei

NBS Uptown Ski Sch NBS Uptown Rental NBS Uptown Retail NBS Uptown Coffee S N N

Suiboku A-Bu-Cha 2

St. Moritz Village

Vader

Pluming Green Saso

Niseko KASHINOYA KASHINOYA Dining

Hirafu-Z

Pukupukutei Genghis Khan

Chalet Luma

Roku

Hanazono Shuttle - via Upper Village

Ikigai

Silver Dream

The Orchards Niseko

t

Lif

ad

Qu

Ski area

Niseko Alpine Apartments 2 Kiraku

First Tracks

a ak -Z ily

2 GoSnow

Country Resort Niseko

Hirafu West Village

Chalet Murasaki

AYA Villas B AYA Villas A

Hirafu West Village

Akagera

Country Resort Niseko J'ai la patate

Alpen Ridge

AYA Niseko

Sun Sports Land Niseko Promotion Board

to Route 5

G G

Snow Crystal

The Vale Niseko Intuition (Scheduled Opening: 2020)

Temporary Police Box ; open from early Dec 2018 to late Mar 2019 Alpen Ridge NBS Ski School NBS Rental NBS Retail Ridge Café

The Vale Niseko Vale Bar & Grill The Vale Onsen & Pool NISADE Real Estate The Vale Snowsports

NBS Kid's Club

Alpen Ridge Fresh Café

AYA Niseko

3

AYA Niseko Ginger Restaurant Powder Yoga/Conference Room iGATE IKEUCHI AYA niseko Niseko Real Estate AYA SPA AYA GYM GOSNOW Niseko Kid's Club Kiyoe Gallery Niseko

NISS Hirafu

Temporary Police Box

The Vale Niseko

343 Toshiro’ s Bar Enishi Niseko Pizza Arigato Massage J-Sekka Suites Mick's

Snow Crystal

J - SEKKA

NBS Ski School

t. aS ak -Z

fu

ra

HI

Seico Mart

Kabuki 2

Toshokan HAVEN Niseko

Kashi Lodge

t. aS ak i-Z

te Yo

Tamo

Shinsetsu

STEAK ROSSO ROSSO Enju

Shirokuma

Itoku

ka

ira

Sh

ISE

Ginsetsu

Yuukitoride

Wajima

Full Circ

t. aS ak -Z a b

Yubokumin

Cecuko

Bar Gyu+ Yukon Apartments

LARR R

Shikaku

Kitanishi 3 Kitanishi 2

Mukashi Mukashi

Kabuki 1 Udelka

Setsugen

Snow Bird Studio

Neyuki

Australia House NisekoAccomodation.com Wabi Sabi Niseko Oil Massage Niseko Physio

Seizan 1, 2

Hatsuyuki

Seshu Powder Room

The Owl House

Kita Boshi

Sakari Luxe Sakari Sato Ezo Yume Shinju Yama

COTO BAR

Adventure Casi 67

TELLUS Villas

5 E

Big Valley 1, 2, 3

Puffin TANCHO TSURU

a ak i-Z

Serendipity Hideaway

Hangloose

Ebisu tei

Nagomi

Waraku Sanso

Sanraku

Akagera

Yukisawa House

KŌHŌ

Shiro Fukurou Zekkei Glass House

Aspe Poronupu

Fo-Sho sansou Fumoto Konishi House

Cocoa

Hidamari

Edelweiss Uncle

Kaizoku Whiskey Woods Yuzuki

Asobi Dokoro

Youtei One

Yukiten

Tanoshii Tokoro

Avalon

D 4

Gouka Lodge - Bondi Zangetsu

Mojos

Boyo Av e.

JUN

Cabane du

Kisetsukan

Yuki no Sansou

Konoha

Arrow Wood

5

Cisco Moon

Mizunara

Ori

Latitude42

Cloud 9

Yume Basho

Tokubetsu

Nupuri Cottage

i Ave.

North Point

Powder Haven

Kitsune House

Green House

Yukemur Gensei

Kado

Yuki no oto 9 Hurry Slowly A

Panorama

Kitadori

Yotei Cottage

Greystone

Eliona

Ooruri

Terrazze Niseko

Horizon

Kokage You B'youtei

Akatsuki Chalet Hakuchōzan

Soseki

Sekka Ni Hirafu House #7

Shibumi Ajisai

Aspect

Seisei 1, 2

Snow Fox

Hangetsu

J-House Kasetsu

St.

te Yo Misosazai

Yui

North Star

A1 Niseko "Yo" Japanese Kaiseki Dining Kemuri Bar

Paint ball Field Niseko

Maroudo

Yamanchu

Konnichiw a Ave. Grand papa

Koharuya

Hi-no Atarubasho

Nature

Dong

Kazahana

Asanagi Sugarpot

Asuka

Ezo Domus Shiro Kita Bluebell

Eco 260°

Yukibana

Flow

Potato Lodge

Peak

Shirakaba Townhouses

k Za iji-

m

Mo

Hirafu Bar

6 F Shin Shin

ekimne

Escarpment Estate

Explore Niseko Office Niseko Portfolio

ODIN House

Boheme Millesime

Expedition

4

If...

Otsukisama

Kitsutsuki

Jam Lodge

SPRINT Taxi Stand

Aaron Jamieson Photography AJ Gallery by Yoshitomo Design

Senchou The Edge

SEKKA House

Hirafu-Intersection

Niseko Property

Fujizushi

Baw Baw Sanso

Explore Niseko Booking Centre

Australia House

see lef

SEKKA Kan

Taj Mahal PIZZAVAN UTTINO

Odin Place

Odin Pl

Hirafu-Inter

J - SEKKA

Burton Zaka NISADE Sales Office

Black Powder Roasting Co

Hirafu

6

FastFun.jp

Koko Mūsu Niseko Taproom The Alpinist Sushi Wakatake

m Fa

Kuma Cabin

Yamabiko Miyabi

Yasuragi

Tom

Tsubaki

Forest Star Lodg Midori

Haruka

Kawasemi Hibari

Benten

Hirafu Main Village A

Hirafu area Name Ski Resort Niseko Grand Hirafu Dining A-Bu-Cha 2 (Suiboku 1F) acorn AKARU An Dining / Café & Bar Bang-Bang Bang2 Bar Gyu+ BARISTART COFFEE Barunba Bion Bistro Re Arbor Black Powder Roasting Co Blackwood Grill BOMBAY 92 SIZZLERS EXPERIENCE Bouken Boyo-so Coto Bar Crab Dining KANON

Phone 0136-22-0109 0136-22-5620 0136-55-6611 0136-23-2023 0136-22-5151 0136-22-4292 0136-22-1480 0136-23-1432

Location G1

D1(E2) E4 F2 G2 E2 E2 C3 A1 0136-55-5615 E5(E3) 0136-55-8739 G3 0136-23-3301 F4 0136-23-3354 B3(D3) 0136-55-6388 A1 0136-55-5272 E5(E3) NISEKO 0136-22-3759 H1 0136-22-1274 G1 0136-25-4438 B4 090-2695-4945 F3

Tsukinoki

0136-23-3688 H5 0136-22-6544 B4 0136-55-8498 C1 0136-55-5956 A3(D3) E5(E3) 0136-21-7111 D2 0136-23-2661 D3 090-3117-1001 F5(E3) 0136-22-2020 C1 0136-55-6293 A3(D2) 0136-23-0164 D1(E2) 0136-23-3939 G5 0136-23-2244 D4 0136-23-3371 F4 0136-23-3354 F3 0136-55-5934 C1 0136-21-4855 G5 0136-23-2727 E5(D3) 090-6636-5265 C3 0136-23-2239 E1 0136-22-1123 F1 0136-23-0603 G5 0136-22-4770 D3

J'ai la patate JAM JoJo's Kabuki 1 Kabuki 2 Kakashi Kamimura KASHINOYA Dining Kemuri Bar Kobe-tei Kogetsu Koharuya Koko Kumo Restaurant L'ocanda Lava Lounge LONG TANG LUPICIA pâtisserie Lupicia Restaurant Maples Bar & Cafe Mick's Mina Mina Momiji

Sugi House The Clearwater

B

Curry Goya Ebisu tei Elements Enishi Ezo Seafoods Fresh Café Fujizushi FUYUTSUKI Niseko Tempura Gentem Café Ginger Restaurant Gloorious Coffee Gokoro Grand papa Graubünden Green Farm Deli Café Roaster Green Sasou Guzu Guzu Half Note Bar Cafe Bistro Hirafu Bar Hirafu-tei Hirafuzaka Ichimura if

Gustav's Hideaway

0136-23-4622 0136-23-0700 0136-23-2220 0136-21-2233 0136-21-2121 0136-23-2622 0136-21-2288 0136-22-0315 070-4123-7214 0136-21-2229 0136-22-6028 0136-25-4009 0136-21-7001 0136-55-6421 0136-55-8625 0136-55-8797 0136-55-5604 0136-21-6818 0136-21-7880 0136-56-8800 0136-23-1608 0136-23-3437 0136-55-5989

Icho House

C

B2 F2 G3 D3 D3 F2 F3 C1 B4 E4(E3) E5(E3) C4 B3(E2) G1 G5 F2 H1 C1 C1 E1 A3(D3) F3 F4(E3)

Mountain Kiosk Mūsu MY ecoCafe Nabe Nabe Nagomi NBS Uptown Coffee Niseko Gourmet Niseko Pizza Niseko Ramen Kazahana NISEKO SAKURA Niseko Soan Niseko Taproom Otsukisama Panorama Niseko PIZZAVAN UTTINO Powder Room Pukupukutei Genghis Khan Raku REN Ridge Café Robata Niseko Naniwatei Roketto Ruhiel

0136-22-3735 F1 0136-21-7002 B3(E2) 0136-55-5556 G5 050-5891-3723 E5(E3) 070-4793-0753 B4 0136-21-5050 D1(E2) 080-8629-1181 G3 0136-55-5553 A3(D3) 0136-23-3444 H3 0136-23-1111 E5(E3) 090-2059-6701 E5(E3) 050-5316-9488 B3(E2) 0136-23-2265 D3 0136-21-7722 G5 080-1899-6006 B3(E3) B4 0136-21-3900 D1(E2) 0136-22-6638 E2 070-2005-1526 G3 0136-21-7111 A3(D2) 0136-22-3388 A1 0136-56-8800 E1 0136-21-2355 H4

Ryu Seafood RyuNabe Sakae Senchou Sessa Seven Star's Cafe Shiosai (Senchou 2) Shokusai Hirafu (Hotel Niseko Alpen) Skye Niseko Café Deli Slalom (Hotel Niseko Alpen) Snow Castle Steak Rosso Rosso Sushi Wakatake Sweets&Cafe (Hotel Niseko Alpen) Taj Mahal Tamashii Tanta-an (Mt. Center) Tatsumi Temporada Tapas Bar The Alpinist The Barn The Brick Bar THE BUNKER

Hannah no Hana

D

080-4503-2335 F2 0136-555-304 F2 0136-22-4198 F4 0136-22-2001 D3 0136-23-2799 H3 0136-23-3334 G5 0136-22-5454 D1(E2) 0136-22-1117 F1 0136-55-6423 G1 0136-22-1105 F1 0136-22-1123 F1 0136-21-7100 D3 0136-55-5517 B3(E2) 0136-22-1105 F1 B3(E3) 0136-55-8507 E4(E3) 0136-22-0648 G1 0136-22-3888 G5 0136-23-3354 F3 0136-21-7003 B3(E2) 0136-23-0888 E5(D3) 0136-22-5764 E3 0136-55-5806 F3

The Edge The Slippery Slope Toshiro's Bar Toshiro's Bar LOUNGE Tozanken Tsubara Tsubara Tuk Tuk Ultimo Restaurant Umarutei Vale Bar & Grill Wabi Sabi Wagyu BBQ Sei Wild Bill's Yamanchu Yo Japanese Kaiseki Dining Yoko Oh-No's YUI YUKITEI NISEKO Yummy's Ski School, Activity Aaron Jamieson Photography Explore Niseko Activity Centre, Ginto Village

0136-22-4354 D3 090-3119-3773 F2 0136-23-3377 A3(D3) E1 0136-23-4549 E2 0136-23-1116 F4 080-3293-6028 E5(E3) A1 080-3291-5804 C1 0136-21-5833 A3(D2) 0136-21-5115 B3(E3) 080-3293-4508 H3 0136-55-5774 F2 090-9528-4166 D4 0136-22-2278 B4 0136-55-6116 G3 0136-55-6071 C4 0136-55-6110 F5(E3) 0136-21-2239 E4 080-4044-9693 A3(D3) G5 050-5309-6905 G4

Explore Niseko Office 050-5309-6905 C3 FastFun.jp 0136-21-4070 B3(D2) Good Sports 0136-23-4560 G5 GoSnow 0136-23-2665 D2/G1 Grand Hirafu Snow School 0136-22-0921 F1 Hokkaido Mountain Experience 090-2058-3807 Koropokkuru Ground G5 Mother Goose Snowboard School 0136-23-3173 F1 NAC Adventure Park 0136-23-2093 E1 NAC Niseko Adventure Center 0136-23-2093 G3 NBS Kid's Club 0136-21-5050 B3(D2) NBS Ski School (Alpen Ridge) 0136-21-5050 A3(D2) NBS Ski School (Snow Crystal) 0136-21-5050 A3(D2) NBS Uptown Ski School 0136-21-5050 D1(E2) Nisek Black 0136-55-5852 G3 Niseko Kid's Club A3(D2) Niseko Park Hotel Tennis Court 0136-22-2122 C1 Niseko Photography & Guiding 0136-22-5764 E3 NISS Hirafu 0136-21-6688 B3(D2) NOASC (Futagoyama) 0136-23-1688 H5 NOASC (Momiji-zaka St.) 0136-23-1688 E5(E3) Paint ball Field Niseko 0136-23-2111 A5 Powder Yoga A3(D2)

E

F

Zaka St.

Grand Hirafu Snow School Grand Hirafu Ski / Snowboard Rental .Base Café

4 ter en 2C

#

ift

dL

ua

eQ Ac

hool

G

Mother Goose Snowboard School

Welcome Center

Hotel Niseko Alpen

Sansui Niseko (Scheduled Opening: 2020)

Chalet Ivy Snow Castle

Yumoto Niseko Prince Hotel Hirafu-tei Toshiro’ s Bar LOUNGE Hermosa Angel 3

ions

Shokusai Hirafu Slalom Sweets & Café Kids Room

Maples Bar & Cafe Focus Physio

J

Bang-Bang

Niseko Park Hotel Ponpidoll

Bang2 Hirafu 188

t. aS

.

St kaK a -Z

Absolute Niseko

Berg Create

fu Ira

Suiboku

H

Hirafu-Zaka St.

The Setsumon

Rhythm Japan Seico Mart

Rhythm Summit

rsection L

1

Australia House

A

Niseko Real Estate

nd

Ishi Couloir

cle Yume House

Nichigo Apartment

Karamatsu

see below

Locomotion

Tancho Centre Niseko Management Service (NMS) Vacation Niseko Japan Ski Experience Yoko Oh-No's Niseko Gourmet Niseko Boutique Niseko Black

2 B

THE BUNKER

.

St ka

Sato House

Kumajiro Rocky

Loft Niseko

343

Aries

Fons

n

Main Lodge

Kamakura Apartments

3 C

Taureau

enwood

S

motsune

23 O

Hinoki Keyaki

Captain Tuk Tuk Kogetsu

NOASC NOASC Rental Niseko Realty Sales Outdoor Travel Japan

Full Note Half Note Bar Cafe Bistro Whiteroom

.

St ka Za iji-

Woody Note

m Mo

Log Log

Moorea Lodge Powder Cottage

Momiji Lodge

Matthew Suites FUYUTSUKI Niseko Tempura Yukitei Niseko

Ave.

Rising Sun Guides toyru Whiteroom Rental, Tune-up Amuse Rental Boot Solutions Full note Good Sports Grand Hirafu Rental (.base) Grand Hirafu Rental (Gondola Sta.) Larry Adler Rent-a-Ski NBS Rental (Alpen Ridge) NBS Uptown Rental Niseko 343 Niseko Resort Service Niseko Sports (Hirafu zaka) NOASC Rental Rental Shop YOSHI Rhythm Japan Rhythm Service Counter (Ki Niseko) Rhythm Service Counter (Shiki Niseko) The Vale Snowsports Shop, Indoor Activity

0136-55-5695 0136-23-2727 0136-23-4560 0136-22-0109 0136-22-0109 0136-21-4050 0136-21-5050 0136-21-5050 0136-23-0343 0136-22-6201 0136-21-6633 0136-23-1688 0136-22-6201 0136-23-0164 0136-23-0164 0136-23-0164 0136-21-7800

C1 D1(E2) E5(D3) G5 F1 H2 E3 A3(D2) D1(E2) E3 F4(E3) D1(E2) E5(E3) G5 D1(E2) G2 F3 A3(D2)

AJ Gallery by Yoshitomo Design AYA GYM Boot Solutions BURTON Cocoroya Gentemstick Showroom Heated Pool ( Niseko Hotel Alpen) Hotel Niseko Alpen Shop i GATE IKEUCHI AYA niseko i GATE IKEUCHI niseko hirafu i GATE IKEUCHI skye niseko Indoor Climbing Wall Kiyoe Gallery Niseko Larry Adler Lupicia Boutique Mick's NAC Outdoor Shop NBS Retail (Alpen Ridge) NBS Uptown Retail Niseko 343 Niseko Boutique Niseko Cultural School Niseko Grand Hirafu Mt. Center

Cross Road Niseko Rental Shop YOSHI EZO Rent a car Seven Star’s Café Seven-Eleven

L'ocanda

080-5585-0083 A3(D3) A3(D2) 0136-55-5695 D1(E2) 0136-55-5697 E2 0136-23-0008 E5(E3) 0136-22-5581 C1 0136-22-1105 F1 0136-23-0483 E1 0136-55-8345 A3(D2) 0136-55-8560 E1 0136-55-8560 G1 0136-23-2093 G3 A3(D2) 0136-21-4050 D2 0136-21-6818 C1 0136-23-1608 A3(D3) 0136-23-2093 G3 0136-21-5050 A3(D2) 0136-21-5050 D1(E2) 0136-23-0343 E3 0136-23-1223 F2 0136-55-8585 E5(E3) 0136-22-2615 G1

Ruhiel

Orchard House

Curry Goya Albarta Lodge

Ruhiel Yellow House Kutchan Town, Route 5 SANGA

Ichimura

Ginrei Gokoro

Guzu Guzu

NOASC

Peak Niseko Car Rentals Niseko Auto

The White House

Cowbell

Hirafu Yamada

Akari

5

Koropokkuru Ground

Panorama Niseko

343

Panorama Niseko Tatsumi

Hirafu East Village F

050-5317-2215 B2 0136-21-4055 G2 080-4500-3857 E5(D3)

Powder-goya Osteria Ezo Fuji

Aaron Jamieson Photography

Yamada Intersection

Momiji-Zaka St.

E

Stage Izumikyo

Nisse Konayuki

NISEKO INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

White Liner Reservation Center

Hi'iragi-sanso

Whistler Lodge BLISS COTTAGE SAKURA

P 24

Good Sports Ski & Snowboard Rental

Yanagi House

M Hotel Regent Royal

Konayuki

Donguri

4

Hola Log House

RoomBoss

Explore Niseko Activity Centre, Ginto Village

Yoteiyama Chalet

Nabe Nabe

Penguin Mura

BLISS LODGING

Ginto Village (Scheduled completion: early 2021) MY ecolodge MY ecoCafe Akazora

Aster A, B

M Group Heritage

Inuneco House

Niseko Soan Kimamaya by ODIN The Barn

Nitai A, B

Snowgum Lodge

Etupirika

Midtown East@Niseko The Pavilions Niseko (Scheduledcompletion: early 2020)

KOKORO

Tahoe Lodge

Midtown @ Niseko

Niseko Resort Service Momiji M Lodge

Annabel

Ramat Lodge

343 Katsura

Ezo Seafoods

Kita-no-kuni

Darwin

Stay

Snowhorse

343

Hirafu East Village

Izumikyo 2

Yukine

The Ginto Residences

NISEKO SAKURA

Wagyu BBQ Sei

Rosti Niseko Cottage

Slow Life

Kitakitsune

Barunba BOMBAY SIZZLERS Cocoroya Niseko Cultural School

Sessa

Koyuki 1, 2

Lodge

Hana & Jo

MSK building Tamashii Kobe-tei

3

Shinrin Tabi-no Kosaten

Shiki 1, 2 Lodge Mori Apartments

Yukiuchi

.

St ka Za ar u ak

Tirol 2

Oak Ridge

Popcorn

Graubünden

Kazane

e

Sakae

Izumikyo 22 N

Izumikyo Office

Fubuki 1, 2, 3

Tirol 1

Mangetsu Niseko Villa

Ruby Chalet

J's Den

Tsubara Tsubara

Ummei Island

Kakurega

Alpine Central

Oluolu Hirafu Main Village

Ezorisu

Niseko Ramen Kazahana

NAC Niseko Adventure Centre Indoor Climbing Wall NAC Outdoor Shop JoJo's

Cotton Grass

Forest Estate 1-5

Izumikyo 3

Asahi

The Niseko Company

Bion

Terra

Lucus Bistro Re Arbor

acorn

La Plagne

Shirayuki Lodge

Izumikyo 1

Pine Sap

The Brick

Bamboo

Jindabyne

Star Chalet AAC Niseko Niseko Club Lodge

Lapis

Midori Cottage

Niseko Photography & Guiding su . at a St Java House ram ak Ka -Z Yummy’s

guri Ave.

ge

21 M

Yellow House

Mount Merry Jurin

Niseko Chalet (Futagoyama lodge)

Yutaka Town House

The Brick Bar

Orion

Creek Side A, B Hirafu Lodge

REN

TOYOTA Rental & Leasing SAPPORO Kanon Crab Dining KANON

Kozue

Yume no Tsuzuki

Niseko Ski Lodge Ezo Yuki

Kisetsu

Lawson

St. ka Za rau k Sa

Yukikage

Lavenne Niseko Reise House

The Freshwater

Momiji-Zaka St.

Shika

AN Dining Café

Muse Niseko

Ski Japan Niseko 343 Travel Yuki Yama

Elevation

Byakko

Yukimi 1, 2

a ol

Go

Tsuru 1, 2

Niseko Landmark View

t. aS ak -Z

Holiday Niseko

Old Man Creek A, B

Gondola Chalets Harro's Snowsports

Haku'un-so

Lava Lounge

NISADE / Niseko Alpine Developments Hirafu Intersection New White Bear

Miyuki

Niseko HA 2

Tokyu Sanso

THE NORTH FACE GRAVITY NISEKO

RY ADLER Rent-a-Ski

Aspe

Hirafu Gondola Station Grand Hirafu Ski / Snowboard Rental

Hirafu Gondola Station

H

Shiki Niseko Kamimura Temporada Tapas Bar Green Farm Deli Café Roaster Rhythm Service Counter

Mina Mina Mountainside Palace

Hirafu Intersection

HAN

HANAZO

Niseko Central Ski Valet

TAIGA Projects

The Slippery Slope

s

Sa

NISS

Niseko

toyru

Kizuna

RyuNabe Ryu Seafood

Nis

LONG TANG

Nihon Ha

JAM

ft

Nis

Hirafu Station

West Village

343

TELLUS Niseko (Expected completion : Winter 2019)

Wild Bill's

t aS ak i-Z ak ay

HANAZONO

Deep Tracks

Suishou Miharashi

HANAZON Hirafu North

Fresh Powder Niseko

Hanami Townhouse

Powderhound Lodge

lace

Ave.

Mountain Jam Youtei Tracks Powder Tracks Silver Birch Kiseki

Nozomi views

see above

Sasayaki

1

631

l

Ho

Bouken Kazoku Bouken

1

NCS

Yama Shizen East Niseko Central

Koropokkuru

Raku

7

East Village

t#

Lif

An Dining / Café & Bar Rhythm Service Counter

Yama Shizen West AKARU HTM

Kira Kira Hokkaido Tracks

Hirafu

Ki Niseko

Koen A ve.

Kakashi

Serenity Hermosa Angel 2 Niseko Business Support

Boyo-so (in Ski area)

air yP ida

5

Saint Moritz Bridge

HANAZONO

Hirafuzaka Owashi Lodge

B

58

Main Village

Mountain Center Shop Tanta-an GoSnow

Heated Pool

&

t#

Lif

Mountain Center

Niseko Foot Yakoujyu Osteopathy & Acupuncture Nippon Rent-A-Car

Chalet Ivy

Tozanken

ir Pa

Alpen shop

Hirafuzaka

Yu-kara

ng

Ki

Hirafu Welcome Center

1A

7

Kutchan Station

Hanazono

Bus Stop to Airport, Sapporo Niseko Ground Service

Hotel Niseko Alpen

The Maples Niseko Roketto

i GATE IKEUCHI niseko hirafu IKEUCHI SYSTEM SERVICE Event space

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Kumo Restaurant Skye Niseko Café Deli Ryko Spa i GATE IKEUCHI skye niseko

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Hirafu 188 Hermosa Angel 1 SATUDORA niseko hirafu

Niseko Grand Hirafu

Skye Niseko

Mountain Kiosk

e Shiosai (Senchou 2) Niseko Sports Rental Niseko Sports Retail

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.Base (Dot Base)

1

t#

Lif

air eP Ac

Hirafu Gondola

NAC Adventure Park

Niseko Sports (Hirafu zaka) 0136-21-6633 Odin Place Ponpidoll 0136-22-2139 Rhythm Japan 0136-23-0164 Rhythm Summit 0136-22-4199 Satudora nisekohirafu Store 0136-21-7551 0136-55-8086 The North Face Gravity Niseko The Vale Snowsports 0136-21-7800 toyru 0136-21-4055 Yu-kara 0136-23-4546 Zaka 0136-55-5756 Convenience Store, Groceries Lawson 0136-23-1230 Seico Mart 0136-23-3271 Seven Eleven 0136-55-6477 Hot Spring Hirafu-tei 0136-23-2239 Hotel Niseko Alpen 0136-22-1105 The Vale Onsen & Pool 0136-21-5811 Body Care Arigato Massage 0136-23-2511 AYA SPA Focus Physio 070-1477-8880

Route 5

Shiribetsu River

Saint Moritz Bridge

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D1(E2) E2 E2 D1(E2) E2 E1 F3 A3(D2) G2 E2 B3(E2) F3 E2 G5 E1 F1 A3(D2) A3(D3) A3(D2) E1

Hermosa Angel 1 0136 23-2004 E1 Hermosa Angel 2 0136-22-0004 F2 Hermosa Angel 3 0136-22-0004 E1 Kimamaya 0136-23-2603 E5(D3) Niseko Foot 0136-22-1224 F1 Niseko Oil Massage 0136-22-0399 B3(E3) Niseko Physio 0136-22-0399 B3(E3) Oluolu 0136-25-4361 F4 Ryko Spa 0136-55-6418 G1 Area Information Explore Niseko Booking Centre 050-5309-6905 B3(E2) Niseko Promotion Board 0136-21-2551 C2 Sun Sports Land 0136-23-3220 C2 Welcome Center 0136-22-0109 F1 Travel Company -JP- : Japanese licence -AU- : Australian licence Aspara Tour -JP0136-23-3340 C2 EZO Rent a car 0136-23-3334 G5 Holiday Niseko 0136-21-6221 F2 Japan Ski Experience 0136-55-6077 G3 Nippon Rent-A-Car (Grand Hirafu) 0136-23-0919 F1 Niseko Auto 080-5586-3490 H5 Niseko Black 0136-55-5852 G3

Niseko Central -JPNiseko Central Ski Valet Niseko Ground Service -JPNisekoAccomodation.com Outdoor Travel Japan -JPPeak Niseko Car Rentals Ski Japan Travel -JP- -AUTOYOTA Rental & Leasing SAPPORO Vacation Niseko White Liner Reservation Center -JP Media, Web RoomBoss Medical Facilities NISEKO INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Yakoujyu Osteopathy & Acupuncture Other Event space（hirafu188） Ikeuchi System Service SPRINT Taxi Stand Temporary Police Box

H

0136-23-3503 F2 0136-23-3503 H2 0136-55-7007 F1 0136-21-2222 B3(E3) 0136-21-2171 E5(E3) 080-5588-7779 H5 0136-22-4611 F3 0136-21-2005 G3 0136-21-2500 G3 011-624-8821 G5 0136-21-6565

G4

0136-21-5454 0136-22-2734

G4 F1

0136-55-5555 011-261-8000

E1 E1 B3(E3) B3(E3)

Accommodation A1 Niseko AAC Niseko Absolute Niseko Adventure Ajisai (Hirafu House #5) Akagera (Main Village) Akagera (West Village) Akari Akatsuki Chalet Akazora Albarta Lodge Alice Alpen Ridge Alpine Central Always Niseko Andaru Niseko Villas Annabel Aries Arrow Wood Asahi Asanagi Asobi Dokoro

Mgt 070-4123-7214 BK 0136-22-3006 070-2425-1926 NB 0136-55-8605 HD 0136-21-6615 NC 0136-55-5244 TA NS 0136-23-0025 0136-23-3688 0136-23-2870 SJ 0136-21-7111 NS 0136-22-0038 NS 0136-55-8498 NC 0136-23-3898 NC HD 0136-55-8651

B4 F3 E2 A4 C4 A5 C2 H5 D4 F5(E3) H5 C1 A3(D2) G4 C1 A1 G4 F3 B5 H3 D4 C5

Aspara Lodge 0136-22-3126 C2 Aspect NM 0136-55-5240 D4 Aspenwood HN D4 IZ H4 Aster A・B Asuka HN C4 Australia House B3(E3) Avalon HN C5 AYA Niseko 0136-23-1280 A3(D2) WW D2 AYA Villas A・B Bamboo Lodge 0136-21-2022 E4 Baw Baw Sanso WW D3 Benten B5 Berg 0136-22-5115 E2 NC B4 Big Valley 1・2・3 Black Lodge 0136-55-5852 B1 BLISS COTTAGE SAKURA 0136-55-5248 G4 BLISS LODGING 0136-55-5248 G4 Bluebell B4 Boheme HD NISEKO 93 B4 EXPERIENCE Bouken Kazoku 0136-22-3759 H1 Boyo-so 0136-22-1274 G1 Byakko NC H2 Cabane du Taureau HD D4

Captain Casi67 Cecuko Chalet Ivy Chalet Luma Chalet Murasaki Cisco Moon Cloud 9 Cocoa Cotton Grass Country Resort Nise Cowbell Create Creek Side A・B Darwin Deep Tracks Eco 260 Edelweiss Ekiraku Elevation Eliona Enju Etupirika Expedition Ezo Domus Ezo Fuji Ezo Yuki Ezo Yume Ezorisu Famille inn Ramina First Tracks Flow Fons Forest Estate Forest Star Lodge Fresh Powder Nisek Fubuki 1,3 Fubuki 2 Full Circle Full Note Fumoto (Hirafu Hou Funky Monkey Fuu Gensei Ginrei Ginsetsu Ginto Village Glass House Gondola Chalets Gouka Lodge – Bon Grand papa Green House Greystone Gustav's Hideaway Haku'un-so Hakuchōzan Hana & Jo Hangetsu Hangloose Hannah no Hana Hatsuyuki HAVEN Niseko Heiwa lodge Hi-no Atarubasho Hi'iragi-sanso Hibari Hidamari Hideaway Hinoki Hirafu House#7 Hirafu Tomten Hirafu188 Hola Log House Horizon Hotel Niseko Alpen Hurry Slowly A Icho House If...

Iki Ikigai Intuition Inuneco House Ise Ishi Couloir Island Itoku J-House J-Sekka Suites J's Den Jam Lodge Niseko Java House Jindabyne JUN Jurin Kabayama House Kabayama Townhou Kado Kaizoku Kakurega Kamakura Apartmen Kanon Karamatsu Kasetsu Kashi Lodge Katsura Kawasemi Kazahana Kazane Keyaki Ki Niseko Kimamaya by ODIN Kira Kira Kiraku Kiseki Kisetsu Kisetsukan Kita Boshi Kita-no-kuni Kitadori Kitakitsune Kitanishi 2 Kitanishi 3 Kitsune House

EXPERIENCE EXPERIENCE NISEKO

See Hokkaido’s best sights, your way

VOL. 5 SUMMER 2018

VOL. 5 SUMMER 2018

Summer Celebration

Summer Edition A destination this good all-year-round deserves more than just a winter magazine.

Look out for the green-season edition of Experience Niseko in summer 2019.

EXPERIENCENISEKO.COM

ENJOY THE RIDE

EXPLORING THE RISE OF NISEKO’S TWO-WHEEL CULTURE

BBQ like a Local

HIRAFU MATSURI INSIDE NISEKO’S BIGGEST FESTIVAL

THE ART OF JAPANESE BBQ

Let us take you anywhere you want to go across Hokkaido in our private and comfortable coaches, SUVs and current model vehicles.

Explore at your leisure with our tailored tours.

Onsen Oasis NISEKO’S RENOWNED HOT SPRINGS

Otaru

Furano/Biei/Tomamu

LIFE IN COLOUR

LOCAL ARTIST YUICHI HASEGAWA

ADVENTURE TIME

Hakodate

DISCOVER NISEKO’S BEAUTY

EXPERIENCENISEKO.COM

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EXPERIENCE NISEKO 95

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