Experience Niseko Vol 4

EXPERIENCE

EXPERIENCENISEKO.COM

VOL. 4 WINTER 2017-18

Jenny Jones WHY THE OLYMPIC MEDALIST LOVES NISEKO

TAP THE KEG CRAFT BEER GUIDE AINU ROOTS

Winter Warmers BEAT THE COLD

THE CHEF RECOMMENDS FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS

DELVING DEEP INTO NISEKO’S HISTORY

Made in Niseko LOCAL LEGENDS

PLUS! EVENTS, GEAR REVIEW & MORE

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 1

Never before. Never again.

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Book now for Winter 2018/19 stay@skyeniseko.com 0136 55 5123 www.skyeniseko.com

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Editor’s Note Japan has always been world-renowned for its incredible customer service and Niseko is no different. Guests and residents alike drift off to sleep each night with smiles on their faces brought about by the kindness, honesty and richness of the interactions they had that day.

While this service brings many people back year after year, word of mouth has also been a factor in the resort’s increasing popularity and now more and more visitors are coming for their first ever winter experience. Being located in the heart of Asia, Niseko is uniquely positioned to provide those first unforgettable snowy memories.

But why is our small mountain town so special? It’s not just the snow, the food or the onsen, although each of those alone is reason enough to visit. No, to us there is something much more exceptional – the people.

Experiences are only as good as those who provide them and here in Niseko we are fortunate to be overflowing with people who live and love their Niseko life. We believe in Niseko as a unique place to be and it’s a privilege to be able to tell everyone about it.

In our third winter edition we continue that theme by giving local businesses, restaurateurs, residents and visitors who simply love the area the chance to spread the word. A particular mention must also go to our colleague Matt Kaiser who researched and wrote many of the articles before returning home. We’re sure that, like so many others, he will be back!

Each return to Niseko is greeted with new sights and scenery, activities and options as well as more people who couldn’t bring themselves to leave. Whether this is your first visit or you’ve lost count, we’re positive it will not be your last.

CHRIS PICKERING

EXPERIENCE NISEKO Vol. 4, Winter 2017-18 www.experienceniseko.com Published by HTM KK, 91-1 Aza Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081, Japan Advertising Enquiries: contact@experienceniseko.com Cover Photo: Jason Horton DISTRIBUTORS We would like to extend a big thank you to all of the local and international businesses and individuals who stock and support Experience Niseko. Without everyone’s effort and contribution, Experience Niseko wouldn’t be the publication that it is today. While we would love to list everyone who has contributed, there are simply too many to do so! If you or your business, in Niseko or abroad, would like to help spread and share Experience Niseko, please contact us regarding distribution of our free magazine or refills when you run out. Email: contact@experienceniseko.com FOLLOW US experienceniseko

This magazine was published with the assistance of a national government grant from the Ministry of Tourism’s program supporting regional tourism brand development.

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CONTENTS Photo by Nolan Yoshiaki Isozaki

Niseko News 6

Her First Tracks 30

Event Guide 8

On-Snow Action 34

From Bangkok to Niseko

Ride Like Jenny

Paula Taylor Buttery 10

Jenny Jones 36

Tap The Keg 60

Oodles of Noodles 14

Pick Your Line 42

Deep Powder, Soft Focus 64

The Chef Recommends 18

Gear Review 44

Ski Etiquette 70

Made in Niseko

Under The Stars 47

Trail Map 74

Winter Warmers 50

Village Map 76

Ross Findlay, Taro Tamai 20

Reaching Out 28

Fun and Food with the Family 54 Ainu Roots 56

Anything But Skiing! 52

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NISEKO NEWS

SHOOTING THROUGH THE SKYE Niseko’s biggest ski-in, ski-out accommodation has been causing a buzz since it entered construction this past summer. Now you can’t miss Skye Niseko wherever you go, resting right at the base of the ski slopes in Niseko-Hirafu it is unmistakable from any angle. It will be opening for winter 2018/19 and will be taking reservations from this coming winter.

A round up of what’s turning heads here in Niseko

GOING UP? Great news for skiers of all levels as two new lifts have opened up for winter 2017/18.

Niseko-Hirafu’s reconstructed Ace Family Lift is a high-speed, detachable quad lift that brings guests further up the mountain much faster than before. Additionally, Niseko-Annupuri’s new Dream Quad Lift establishes a new beginner zone midway through the Junior Green Run to help accommodate the growing numbers of beginner level skiers at the resort.

NEW NEST AT THE TREES Nest at the Trees will open its doors this winter having completed an incredible summer construction. Located along Route 343 between Niseko-Hirafu and Niseko Village, it is a unique retreat for those seeking winter solitude in Niseko.

FAREWELL MONTY’S OUR OLD FRIEND Monty’s Bar and Restaurant has shut its doors this past winter to re-open as a new Japanese nabe (hot pot) restaurant. Right in the heart of the Hirafu Village, Momiji will offer a range of flavours, perfect for a cold winter’s evening.

NAC ADVENTURE PARK Niseko-Hirafu now has an adventure course nestled into the forest next to the Ace Family Run. The plan is for the 100-challenge treetop course to be open year-round with ziplines, Tarzan ropes, rope bridges and more for both children and adults to enjoy. The park finished construction this past autumn and is ready to be explored by anyone over 115cm tall!

THE SKI PROJECT Momiji

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The brainchild of Sandy Ip, a Hong Kong based stylist and luxury goods veteran, ’The Ski Project’ will sell the latest in European ski apparel & accessories. With the increasing numbers of Asian skiers, Sandy wanted to bring the finest European skiwear to this market and chose Niseko as the location to launch her vision with all brands exclusive to the shop. Situated in the Wellness Shop in the Haven Building, it offers a beautiful environment to browse and enjoy coffee or refuel with delicious smoothies & nutritious snacks.

THE MAPLES NISEKO Located right off the Ace Family Run, guests staying at the Maples Niseko will have easy access to upper village restaurants and the ski slopes from this new ski-in, ski-out accommodation opening in time for winter 2018.

GINGER Great news for those that like their food hot and tasty as “Ginger” will open its doors this winter in AYA Niseko. Serving buffet breakfast, Japanese-style lunch plates and then Izakaya-style in the evening this will be a welcome addition to the ski-in ski-out restaurants here in Hirafu.

WELCOME WAKATAKE Sitting at the top of Hirafu Village’s Odin Place, Wakatake is one of several new sushi restaurants coming to Niseko this winter season. It was formerly located in Sapporo and was known as one of the best sushi restaurants in the Maruyama area.

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Kutchan Yukitopia Festival

Event Guide There’s plenty happening in and around Niseko this winter!

Find out more online at experienceniseko.com/events

SKIING UNDER THE STARS Niseko’s night skiing is legendary. Dedicate at least one evening during your stay to experience Mt Niseko Annupuri after the sun goes down and the lights come on.

Venue: Niseko United Resorts Dates: 9 December 2017 – 18 March 2018 Time: 4:30 pm – 9:00 pm (last lifts at 8:30 pm) Details: www.niseko.ne.jp

SANTA IS COMING TO TOWN Dreaming of a white Christmas? Well you will find snow and plenty of magic in the air during the holiday season here in Niseko. Cozy up by the fire with family and friends, watch the children enjoy a reindeer ride or catch a glimpse of Santa on the slopes—that’s right, even he stops for a few runs along his way around the world.

Venue: All of Niseko Dates: 20 – 25 December 2017 Time: Varies by event

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GOODBYE 2017, HELLO 2018 Bring in the New Year Niseko-style! Enjoy fireworks and a midnight torch parade down the slopes in Niseko-Hirafu. Look out for cultural events, such as mochi (rice cake) making too.

Venue: All of Niseko Dates: 31 December 2017 – 3 January 2018 Time: Varies by event

TOTAL LUNAR ECLIPSE Don’t forget to poke your head outside in the evening to catch a glimpse of this epic celestial event. If you have a balcony and a view of the moon, you may not even have to leave the comfort of your hotel, but if you do and the weather is good, it will be worth a trip outside to find a good vantage point.

Venue: All of Niseko Dates: 31 January 2018 – 1 February 2018 Time: 7:50 pm – 1:00 am

LAKE SHIKOTSU ICE FESTIVAL Swing out to Lake Shikotsu for an afternoon and evening to catch the ice sculptures, tasty food, evening fireworks and maybe a dip in one of the area’s famous onsen. During the evening, the ice sculptures are illuminated all kinds of colours.

Venue: Lake Shikotsu Waterfront, by Lake Shikotsu Hot Spring Dates: Late January – mid-February Time: 4:30 pm - 8:30 pm Details: www.welcome-to-chitose.jp/ ivent/3640.html

OTARU SNOW LIGHT PATH Looking for a romantic way to spend an evening? Stroll along Otaru Canal as it is lit up by thousands of ice candles that line the canal path and dot the waterway.

Venue: Otaru Canal, Otaru City (90-minute drive from Niseko Hirafu) Dates: 9 – 18 February 2018 Time: Evening Details: www.yukiakarinomichi.org

Otaru Snow Light Path

KUTCHAN YUKITOPIA FESTIVAL This winter festival is perfect for families visiting Niseko and is a short 15-minute ride from the resort. The small local event offers plenty of fun games and activities for children, free rides up the local ski hill and a look into Japanese living that larger festivals don’t usually provide.

Venue: Asahigaoka Ski Hill, Kutchan Town Dates: 17 – 18 February 2018 Time: 4:30 pm - 8:30 pm Details: www.town.kutchan.hokkaido.jp/ tourism/yukitopia-festival

SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL

Kutchan Yukitopia Festival

Sapporo Snow Festival

Twelve blocks of Sapporo’s Odori Park, three blocks of the Susukino downtown area and all of the area around the Tsudome Community Centre shut down for this massive event.

Enjoy all kinds of delicious treats while gazing at snow sculptures ranging from a couple of metres to a couple of stories in size.

Venue: Sapporo Odori Koen and Susukino Area Dates: 5 – 11 February 2018 Time: All day Details: www.snowfes.com/english

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FROM BANGKOK TO NISEKO

Niseko is making its way onto the radars of more and more celebrities from around the world. We caught up with Thai actress, model and presenter Paula Taylor Buttery while she was staying in Hirafu PHOTO: HIDDE HAGEMAN

How and where did you first hear about Niseko?

I was invited to come along by some friends who were traveling to Niseko in March. I love Japan anyways, so I am always looking for any excuse to go back.

Great to hear! After being invited, what sparked your interest in Niseko?

Snowboarding! It’s my favourite sport so I am always keen to get out and work on my boarding. Being so close to Bangkok and Hong Kong, Niseko is really convenient.

I almost can’t believe we had never come out before. I think that even if we moved to Europe or North America, I would still be pretty interested in making the trek back out to Niseko.

What was your initial impression of Niseko?

So much snow! I mean, I heard the stories, but there is so much of it.

Have you snowboarded a lot before? How are you finding boarding here in Niseko?

Well, as it’s my favourite sport, I like to

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go whenever I can. We are heading off to Europe once this trip wraps up too! I feel like my riding ability here is so good! Well, at least to my standards, maybe. I think it might be due to all the fluffy snow. Falling down doesn’t hurt so much and so you get a lot more daring. I’m a bit nervous what will happen when we get to Europe. I hope my skills don’t drop or anything.

What is different about riding in Niseko compared to other places?

One simple little word—snow! It really is out of this world how good and how much of it there is in Niseko. Other places I have been just don’t come close.

Have you been to any interesting restaurants or shops so far? Any recommendations you would want to give?

There are so many interesting little bars and restaurants here. Rather than recommend a single place, I would say just be adventurous and go and explore! That’s one of the best parts of travelling, discovering and trying something new!

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WINTER CALLING

Who flicked the switch? Flip-flops one day, Ugg boots the next. When it feels like the leaves have only just turned golden, Mt Yotei is wearing its first coat for the season WORDS: SOFIE LAHTINEN PHOTOS: HIDDE HAGEMAN

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Nothing means “it’s winter” in Niseko more than the first snowfall each year, except the fact that it’s not even winter. Autumn sees the year’s first sprinkling on the summit of Mt Yotei, often around early October when the rolling hills are still painted rust.

From the lush green peaks in summer, to the warmhued foliage in autumn, Mt Yotei turns a mystical white in what seems like the blink of an eye. iPhones are out; cars stopped along the roadside. Capturing the pretty, sugar-coated mountain sure does make for a sweet shot.

The new snow is the talk of the town. The energy in the air is electric. Like a signalling beacon you just can’t ignore, Mt Yotei’s freshly-powdered peak is a daily

reminder that winter is on its way. A reminder that an average of 14 metres of glorious, pristine snow, will dump across Niseko in the coming months.

October is the last chance to explore before the real snow hits. Whether it’s an autumn drive along the Panorama Line before it closes for winter, or a scenic cycle around Mt Yotei, October is the final call for Niseko’s warmer-weather activities.

Adventures like hiking, cycling and barbecuing will make way for skiing, snowmobiling and après-ski by the fireplace with new and old friends alike.

The snow finally lands in the heart of Hirafu village, usually around the end of October, and it’s show time.

The village puts on its famed winter face; a magical

snow paradise almost unrecognisable from its summer counterpart.

The countdown is on to the ski lifts opening in late November, with skiers and snowboarders waiting with bated breath. When you think every tree-run has been tracked and every powder stash has been smashed, by the time you’ve made your way back up, there are fresh new lines to be skied.

Metres upon metres of powdery snow will fall until late-March thanks to the seasonal winds all the way from Siberia. And with the snow come many faces from the world over. For some, it’s their first time seeing snow and for others, it’s like coming home.

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Oodles of Noodles For those days when you want to forget western manners and slurp away at a steamy bowl of noodles WORDS: KIRSTEN FAIRBAIRN

Noodles have a long history in Japan, dating back as early as the 8th century when a variation of what are now somen noodles (thin white wheat noodles) was introduced from China. There are many kinds of noodles here in Japan, though three dominate current noodle cuisine: ramen, udon and soba.

Noodles can be served in a number of different ways. They can be fried and cooked in sauce; they can be boiled and placed in a rich soup broth; or they can be served cold with a dipping sauce.

Regardless of how they are presented, they must be slurped! In fact, it’s even considered good manners to slurp loudly as you eat noodles to show you are enjoying them.

BROTH The broth is arguably one of the most important factors in a noodle meal and is the defining difference between one bowl of noodles and another. Just as there are many kinds of noodles, there is an equally vast range of soup broth to try with a number of different ingredients used to create fish, vegetable and meat bases.

Vegetarians may need to ask ahead of time.

Beyond the base, there are two big traditional soup flavours: shoyu (soy sauce) or shio (salt). While these two are the oldest, there are dozens of other popular soup bases for noodles. Hokkaido is recognized as the birth place of what is now considered one of the three most popular soup broths, miso (soy bean paste). It’s somewhat heartier and was originally intended for the cold winter months.

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UDON There are conflicting timelines on the emergence of udon, ranging from the 9th to 13th century. They are thick and chewy wheat noodles, made by repeatedly kneading, stretching and slicing a dough of flour and salted water. The shape of udon noodles varies between regions, from flat and thin to round and thick. Udon is commonly served cold with dipping sauces or warm in a soup broth. It’s also often used as the finishing touch to nabe (hotpot). Udon is frequently served with toppings ranging from the extravagant, such as tempura-battered vegetables or shrimp, to the simple, such as dried tofu.

Try: Gokoro (0136-23-3939), Hozuki (0136-21-0077), No No San (0136-42-2381)

SOBA Emerging during the Tokugawa period (1603 – 1868), soba is made using buckwheat rather than white wheat. Soba noodles have a nutty taste and are considered the healthiest noodle variation as they are high in vitamin B. Depending on whether the grain skins are used when the flour is made, the noodles can be white or grey in colour. Soba is commonly served in both cold and hot variations. When served cold, the noodles come with a dipping sauce, usually made of soy sauce and sugar. When served warm, the noodles can come in a variety of different soups and with a range of different toppings; the most common toppings are kake (scallion or fish cake), kitsune (deep fried tofu) or tanuki (tempura batter). Toshikoshi soba, meaning ‘from one year to another’, is traditionally served on New Year’s Eve in Japan.

Try: Rakuichi (0136-58-3170), Ichimura (0136-23-0603)

RAMEN Though it has become the most popular and prominent type of noodle in Japan, ramen is of Chinese origin and only emerged in Japan during the 20th century. This wheat noodle is widely available in restaurants and in convenience stores and supermarkets across the country. Ramen’s defining yellow colour is a result of kansui (lye water), which is an alkaline solution that produces the noodle’s texture and springiness. Ramen is almost always served in a hot broth and can be topped with meat, eggs, tofu or vegetables. Across the country, there are dozens of flavours and styles which have gained national attention.

Small variations in toppings or broth can result in a particular type of ramen gaining national acclaim. In addition to being the birth place of miso ramen, Hokkaido is also known for its butter and corn topped ramen which is a must try during your visit.

Try: Otsukisama & Bar Moon (0136-23-2265), Niseko Ramen Kazahana (0136-23-3444), Nakama (0136-22-0660) 16 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

NISEKO RAMEN KAZAHANA

Kazuhiro Sagara Photo by Glen Claydon

potato, into a bowl of ramen was the way to go, but the challenge was how to do it.

“Potatoes in ramen aren’t new, it has been done before. Potato noodles are a thing, there’s even a ramen shop that puts French fries on top of the noodles. I wanted to find something that no one else was doing and something that actually worked and wasn’t really gimmicky”.

It wasn’t until 2009 when Kazuhiro finally uncovered how he would do it, the perfect potato topping for a bowl of delicious,

hearty miso ramen. The rich potato-cream vichyssoise (similar to very light mashed potatoes) that he layers over the broth and noodles is a poetic reflection of Niseko’s famed snow.

Niseko Ramen Kazahana has received a lot of media attention over the last few years since the debut of their potato ramen. They’ve appeared on Japanese television, shown up in newspapers and been featured in countless blogs and travel guides. It’s truly a unique style of ramen and one you can only try in Niseko.

Glen Claydon

Matt Kaiser

Matt Kaiser

INITIALLY OPENING ITS DOORS IN 2008, Niseko Ramen Kazahana went by the name Niseko Ramen Mount when they were still located in Kutchan Town along Route 5. Now, the restaurant is located just on the outskirts of the main Hirafu Village.

When Kazuhiro Sagara first opened his shop, he knew his restaurant needed a signature dish or something special about the way he made his ramen. To him, it was obvious that finding some way of incorporating Niseko’s famous crop, the

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The chef recommends We sought out some of Niseko’s most popular eateries and asked their owners where they like go when they need some time out of the kitchen WORDS: MATT KAISER Junko Watanabe Photo by Glen Claydon

JUNKO WATANABE GRAUBUNDEN

Graubunden Photo by Glen Claydon

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Junko Watanabe picked out the SwissGerman name for her restaurant and café, Graubunden, years and years ago.

“My father insisted I choose something that related to the Kutchan Town and St. Moritz sister city connection”. In the end, she settled on Graubunden, the grey mountainous country subdivision that St. Moritz is a part of. “It’s hard to say, right?” she asked us with a laugh. “To my Japanese guests, it has a particularly curious ring to it and that curiosity has driven all kinds of people to my door looking to discover just what Graubunden is and means”.

An avid skier herself, Junko wanted to create a place where skiers could come down and fully recharge after a day on the slopes. Graubunden still operates on that very principle, “it’s a place where you can come in and sit down, eat your fill and be happy”. Stepping in from the cold, Graubunden gives the feeling of a home away from home. They serve fresh sandwiches and bake cakes and desserts throughout the day making for a great lunch or après-ski meal.

When we asked Junko if she had a favourite restaurant in the area she laughed and shook her head at the impossibility of just choosing one. Junko frequents many restaurants throughout Niseko, listing Tsubara Tsubara and Seven Stars Café as a couple of her favourites. In the end, she settled on Niseko Loft Club, as it’s a place that she regularly goes to with her staff.

Junko swears by it and Niseko Loft Club’s reputation speaks for itself. Located in between Hirafu and Niseko Village, the restaurant can be quite tough to get a reservation at during the winter season.

“They serve up a BBQ dish called Genghis Khan, but you wouldn’t think of it as normal Genghis Khan because the cuts are much neater than you would typically find in other restaurants”. The Hokkaido specialty is typically provided on a grill right at the table and cooked and eaten by the guests at their leisure. This is just what Junko likes most about Loft Club, that it creates the perfect atmosphere for friends and family to relax and enjoy the evening together.

SHINGO ‘CAP’ SUGIYAMA EBISUTEI Hailing from a small city on the western outskirts of Tokyo, Shingo ‘Cap’ Sugiyama first visited Niseko when he was just 19 years old. “That experience ignited my interest and left me dreaming of opening up my own restaurant in Niseko”. It wasn’t until 2007 that Cap finally was able to make the move to Niseko. He and a businesspartner opened up Ebisutei and then, six years later, Cap took over as the sole owner, fulfilling that dream.

“When we first envisioned the restaurant, we were aiming to create something that reflects two things: creating a true Japanese winter experience and evoking a yatai (Japanese food stall) feeling”. This was partly why they chose oden (a winter one pot dish) as one of their central menu items. A number of different items, such as daikon radish, fish cakes, or meat skewers, are stewed in a broth and

Shingo ‘Cap’ Sugiyama Photos by Matt Kaiser

served as ordered. “Many of our guests from Asia are keen to experience oden and I hope that even more visitors will give it a try as it’s such a unique winter dish”.

“I guess the place I go most frequently is Shei Shei,” the Chinese restaurant along Route 5 on the way into Kutchan Town from Hirafu. “I usually go there for lunch. If I can go out for dinner, I sometimes go to the yakiniku restaurant, Iki”.

Shinya Kato Photos by Matt Kaiser

SHINYA KATO JAM BAR

Meet Shinya Kato, the owner of one of Hirafu’s long-standing drinking holes— Jam Bar. Born and raised in Hirafu Village, his parents own and operate Jam Lodge.

“My father opened the original Jam Bar over 30 years ago. Unfortunately, the building burned down about 20 years ago when I was in my teens”. About five years after the fire, Shinya decided to rebuild and re-open the restaurant bar.

Jam Bar is now a reflection of Shinya— a surfer and snowboarder—the restaurant exudes a laid-back feeling as you step inside. The menu hasn’t changed all that much over the years—instead, Shinya has dedicated his time and energy to deliver

“I love Chinese food, particularly ankake soba” (a Chinese noodle dish with a thick sauce). “I’ve always liked Chinese food—from as far back as I can remember”.

Cap is also a big fan of their shrimp ankake ramen, saying he usually gets either the ramen or soba whenever he goes. “Working in a Japanese restaurant, sometimes I just like to change it up, too”.

what he refers to as “casual gourmet food for a good price”. His menu of Western and Asian-fusion dishes is simple but each item has years of refinement worked into it.

“Growing up here in Hirafu, I have become good friends with many of the restaurant owners in the area”, Shinya remarked. “The biggest problem with being friends with everyone is that it makes it hard to pick where to eat out. I am old friends with Cap, the owner of Ebisutei, so I go there a lot. Other nights I wander down to Mina Mina or Yummy’s Pizza for dinner”.

As a father of twins, Shinya’s life has changed quite a lot as they have grown up over the years. Now that his children are older, many of Shinya’s dinner-time decisions revolve around what his twins want. “We like to go to Izakaya Rin,” a restaurant located in Hirafu’s lower village.

“I am really fond of their tsukune (chicken meat balls) and their torimen (similar to Japanese somen noodles served in a warm soup) with its nice, smooth taste”.

Sometimes, Shinya and his family drive into Kutchan Town for dinner. When they do, the frequently choose Kutchan Sakaba. “I like their daily specials, there is always something new to try. My kids love spaghetti vongole, they order it just about every time we go”.

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MADE IN NISEKO WORDS: CHRIS PICKERING

N

iseko retains a special meaning for so many people – locals, owners of properties and visitors to the area all find it impossible to forget this incredible place. But like so many unique spots around the world, the real pull of the place cannot easily be pinned down. For Niseko, many claim it is the snow but more and more guests now spend more time off the slopes than on them. Some talk about the glorious summers being Niseko’s hidden secret. For me though, the real reason this little place is so memorable is down to one thing, the people who live and work here.

The passion of locals, both Japanese and international, has helped make Niseko one of the most valuable areas in Japan in terms of real estate, but has also enabled the resort to set new standards in terms of resort service in Asia while retaining its small-town atmosphere and local charm.

At Experience Niseko we often spend time talking to local residents and business people about their love for the area and this year I was fortunate enough to spend time with two true legends of Niseko.

ROSS FINDLAY was one of the first foreigners to move to the area and invest both time and money in bringing international visitors through his Niseko Adventure Centre – he has now gone back to his first love and started making skis right here in Niseko.

Since moving to Japan in the late 80s, Ross has become something of a poster child for foreigners who have settled successfully into a local community. After getting married at the end of 1994, Ross and his wife set up the Niseko Adventure Centre (NAC) at a time when both Kutchan and Hirafu were really struggling.

Unlike most local entrepreneurs, Ross’ passion grew from summer not winter. A talented athlete across many disciplines, Ross was a top-rated kayaker and brought those skills to Niseko by starting his adventure company based

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around rafting which remains the largest part of the business.

Ross has done just about everything in Niseko from rock climbing to adventure parks, but he always dreamed of making his own skis ever since university. He thought that the opportunity had passed after he moved to Japan; “making skis in Japan is crazy from a business point of view,” points out Ross. “You have to do this in China or eastern Europe, at least according to conventional wisdom.” But Ross is not one to be constrained by normal expectations!

“It’s not easy living and working in a small countryside town in Hokkaido, like Kutchan,” continues Ross. “Jobs are disappearing for people who have traditionally worked with their hands. Ever since I started NAC, my aim has been to employ young local people in exciting jobs, like rafting, and give them an interesting

Ross Findlay fully kitted out and ready for a test ride!

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In the factory at Kutchan Station each pair of skis involves locals throughout the production process. The unique top sheets (below) add the final touch.

outlook on life. I knew if I ever did get the chance to make my own skis that I would have to make the factory here in the area. It means too much to me to consider setting that up somewhere else.”

So that’s exactly what he did. Setting up the factory with the best address in the whole town – Platform 1, Kutchan Station – Ross decided he was going to build skis from scratch using locals to build, test and sell them. “Japan has a history of doing this kind of thing – just like the rotary engine. They take something already perfected, strip it down and start again with the aim of making it better, or if not better then at least making it locally! So, we employed a local high school student, we

I KNEW I WOULD HAVE TO MAKE THE FACTORY HERE IN THE AREA. IT MEANS TOO MUCH TO ME TO CONSIDER SETTING THAT UP SOMEWHERE ELSE

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created all our marketing locally and of course all the testing is done by Niseko residents.”

While having a dream to make skis is all well and good, it’s never that easy! Ross found that the hardest element was the lead time. “To go from zero, you need to test everything. So we built a ski, tested it, then modified it based on feedback, tested again and by then winter is over. You then spend all summer working on the design without being able to test for months.”

Despite that the unique hand-made skis are now stacking up. ROKO have currently got three different models and will be testing more this season. “These skis are designed in Niseko, made in Niseko and tested in Niseko,” smiles Ross. “And I’ll tell you what, every local here is a pro and a critic! There’s no tougher market when it comes to research and development!”

Knowing that it would be tough to take on the large wholesalers, Ross was looking for an angle from the start that would set his skis apart. After giving it lots of thought, he found the answer right in front of him.

“Niseko is a really arty place. So many people here are creative and work with their hands in some way, whether making jewellery or building houses.” That is

why Ross works with artists to create unique top sheets for the skis. You can pick your favourite or even design your own. A share of the cost goes to the artist and it helps to bring some fun to the process as well as bring the local community into the production once more.

“Shops who want to stock the skis can choose their own artists. Buyers can design their own skis. Famous artists can use the skis as a unique way to promote their art. My ultimate aim is to spread ROKO skis across the world and I thought that art would be a fantastic way to do that. Art is international and Niseko is becoming renowned for showcasing local and international artists to both foreign and domestic markets”.

Spending time with Ross serves to reaffirm my belief that this is such a special place, full of inspiring people. As for the future of Niseko through the eyes of a pioneer, Ross believes a clearly defined vision is the key. “Personally, I think we should try to make Niseko

the best outdoor lifestyle centre in Asia; we really could do that. But whatever the direction, I hope the government can choose one and then follow it through 100%. With a solid foundation, after that everything will flow naturally.”

Since the early days when Niseko was still finding its feet, Ross has seen the evolution of a unique community and is humbled to be part of the journey.

“I felt a bond right away with the community and I was so proud to help bring jobs through the Niseko Adventure Centre. Some people joined the rafting team just for fun, but so many stayed and I can look around the village and see how those men and women are now business and community leaders – it’s pretty cool. I hope that the ROKO factory will inspire the next generation!”

With Ross’s belief in the local talent, there is no way we could possibly disagree!

Nothing beats floating through Niseko powder on locally-made skis. Locals make the best, and most critical, testers!

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Taro Tamai with his iconic board has led the "snowsurf" movement in Niseko for years.

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TARO TAMAI is the leader and owner of Gentemstick, a brand that grew out of Niseko and helped spread the word of the epic snow around the world and even start a whole new movement of “snow surfing”.

Born in Tokyo in 1962, Taro grew up in a family where there was a big focus on outdoor activities. His father started the first management company in Japan for professional athletes and passed his love of sports to Taro. Although he did not represent any skiers, he was interested in the idea of popularising skiing and even went to the United States to watch races. Taro’s mother on the other hand was from a family of stone masons and musicians. He grew up in an environment where musicians, artisans, athletes and TV stars were very much the norm after his father opened a westernstyle restaurant located next to a TV station.

“It was a unique place and time,” says Taro. “There were so many different kinds of people bringing new ideas all the time. Although it might seem like Tokyo is a difficult place to enjoy outdoor activities, my father had the drive and energy to make it work. He was more than happy to get us all in the car and drive for 15 hours to go to the mountains for skiing!”

That love of the outdoors, mountains and a fairly eclectic upbringing ended up with Taro settling in Niseko, but he actually had been snowboarding for many years before then. “I remember a conversation with someone at our restaurant about ‘surfing on the snow’ but it wasn’t until 1974 when I saw snowboarding for the first time. It was on a 16mm film and I immediately loved everything about it: the direction of the film, the style and the equipment all made me think that this was what I wanted to be doing with my life.”

So, although he initially was a skier, Taro the snowboarder was born. But he and his friends suffered from discrimination at a time where snowboarders were regularly banned from resorts. He couldn’t understand why changing from skis to a snowboard had suddenly made him so unwelcome on the slopes.

“In 1990, I heard a new snowboard magazine would be launched, the first major one, and I was asked to write an article. The first issue was based on the idea of an adventure in Hokkaido so I came up to Asahidake and Niseko – my first visit in winter. After trying some different places, I ended up at the top of Mt. Annupuri on the Hirafu side and I knew right away this was the best mountain in all of Japan for snowboarding.”

After spending the whole winter exploring the mountain wherever snowboarders were allowed, Taro had a call from a local businessman who wanted to start a snowboarding shop and snowboarding school.

“I thought if I could free the mountains in Niseko for snowboarders it would be amazing, so this chance was like a godsend for me,” remembers Taro.

But all did not go to plan; there was a serious lack of snow in December and the school was closed before the season even began. Taro and his instructors were heartbroken but then on the 23rd December the snow finally came. It snowed for three straight days and on the 25th late in the evening Taro received a phone call from the owner of the Alpen lift offering him the chance to test the run out, a run he had never before ridden on a board.

“When I got off the lift, I was stunned. It was beyond description. Like a dream; a dreamland. I snowboarded in this dream course with three others all alone for about two hours, until nine in the evening.

I think that was the moment Niseko’s snowboarding history began.”

I LOVE THIS PLACE AND WANT PEOPLE TO ENJOY IT, I WANT PEOPLE TO KNOW WHY I FELL IN LOVE WITH NISEKO ALL THOSE YEARS AGO. Taro has been in Niseko ever since, overcoming the days when no-one would rent him and his friends a room to where he is now – running a globally recognised brand and even enjoying the summer surfing scene (despite always swearing he would never surf in a wetsuit!). “With the snow here and the uniqueness of Niseko, I thought it’s possible to invite all your friends from around the world and proudly welcome them! Niseko has always warmly welcomed outsiders”, he points out. Indeed, many of the “local” Japanese residents originate from elsewhere in Japan just like Taro, but what drove him to start “Gentemstick”?

“I had always been attracted to craftmanship, in that I wanted equipment that was best suited to me. I

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 25

Creating, testing, refining and selling. Taro's touch is everywhere.

actually was not that interested in the manufacturing process itself. But the fussier you become, the harder it is to find something that can satisfy you.” Taro travelled the world, researching boards and apparel but never quite finding what he wanted. He enjoyed the support of various sponsors until a tragic accident in 1998 lead to deep reflection from Taro and the withdrawal of his sponsorship.

“After losing my friend in the accident I wanted to focus on how to take responsibility. I felt this was my duty but I also took it as an opportunity to start from scratch. I quit everything I had been doing up to that point and started Gentem. I had nothing to lose and nothing was in my way. I wanted to express myself through snowboarding, but I still did not want to be a technical expert. So, I chose not to have a factory, but to work with skilled experts to make the best boards.

I needed technicians who could understand my ideas and bring them to fruition faithfully. I did not have a factory here, but Niseko was the test arena for everything we did.”

Gentemstick was born from the mountains of Niseko, not only because of the powder but also because of the gradient of the mountain, as Taro explained: “Slopes in Niseko are obviously not rocky, but they are also not so steep. My philosophy is built on making boards run comfortably over the snow without having to worry about braking. I believe that is the key to enjoying snowboarding forever, so I make my boards accordingly, and for that purpose Niseko is the best place in the world. In surfing we do not brake; I want everyone to experience that feeling on the snow.”

Although born and tested here in Niseko, Taro

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and his team have built a range of boards capable of tackling any mountain, but his passion is that feeling he first had on Christmas Day back in 1990. His dream is not to support world champions, but to bring the feeling of “snowsurf” to all levels and all ages, which is why he is spending time building products for beginners and children.

“I want people to realise that snowboarding is easy.

I want everyone to love it like I do. People associate the Gentem brand with advanced riders who require special boards, but everyone is special to me. I need my pro riders to come back alive, but I need everyone else to feel happy at the end of the day! A good board which is true to the philosophy of snowboarding will make people love the sport from day one.”

Gentemstick has, like Taro, grown from a deep love of the mountains and the area. I wondered if there was anything that Taro would change if he could go back to the start? “No, nothing. I have done my best. I feel I have been true to my beliefs and learned from my mistakes. I love this place and want people to enjoy it, I want people to know why I fell in love with Niseko all those years ago.”

Taro is not only the founder and leader of Gentemstick, he is one of the originators of Niseko’s “local rules” which have enabled so many locals and visitors to enjoy the incredible conditions here in Niseko. They serve to protect everyone from danger while giving access to its world-famous powder snow.

Please be sure to follow these rules (see page 74) and appreciate the advice given is for your safety. Let’s make sure that many generations to come are able to enjoy Niseko in the way we are today.

Niseko is changing every year, but it's still easy enough to find places that remind Taro why he fell in love with this area all those years ago.

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REACHING OUT Niseko-based winter apparel brand Oyuki have designs on North America WORDS: CHRISTINE HAMPTON

PEOPLE WHO LIVE IN NISEKO, and those who visit frequently, are used to the kind of weather that dominates the air space here. Temperatures cold enough to freeze hair as you dash home from the local onsen. Streets so deep with snow the local hardware store only just keeps up with demand for knee-high, insulated rubber gum boots. Factoring minutes into your day for clearing snow from your home and car is just par for the course. As is taking it slow on frost-bitten roads and biding your time while giant ploughs clear pathways.

As the snow banks pile up, streets and lanes get narrower. Constant cloud cover makes the sky seem lower. Some might call this environment claustrophobic but, mostly, the people who live here just find it cosy. They’ve made their peace with life in Niseko, the shovelling, the waiting, the slowing down because, without all the snow, they wouldn’t be spending winters riding the best powder in the world.

It may seem that the secret about Niseko’s generous winter storms has been

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out for a long time now. And it has been, for skiers and snowboarders living in Asia or most places south of the equator. But in North America, only recently have stories of Niseko’s endless deep powder days started to evolve from myth into reality.

Now instead of existing only in whispered tales from a friend of a friend who visited Japan and rode the deepest, driest snow of their life, a ski trip here is on the bucket list for many North American skiers and snowboarders. And it’s this evolution that the makers of Niseko-born winter apparel brand, Oyuki, are responding too.

Oyuki’s heart and soul is embedded firmly in the Annupuri ranges. Its team of developers find inspiration in the snowladen inclines of these mountains. They’re motivated by a love of carving fresh lines into open faces and shooting through groves of silver birch trees. According to Emily Gattinger, Oyuki’s Head of Product Development “Niseko is a perfect muse.

The constant snow, ease of access to lifts and backcountry, as well as the incredible

human resources who live or visit here create an amazing product testing opportunity. There is a fresh energy which I believe is brought on by the geothermal activity that lies below, as well as the annual change of seasons on the surface above.”

Now, just like the team behind Oyuki are drawn to this place and its story, so are retailers and distributers in the States, providing Oyuki with a launch pad into the North American market.

Since its inception, Oyuki has been influenced and energised by the winds and weather that travel here over the Sea of Japan, all the way from Siberia. Now that it’s all grown up this Niseko brand is reaching out and sharing its driving force with like-minded skiers and snowboarders from North America and, in the future, even further beyond. Here at Experience Niseko, seeing a local brand achieve international recognition brings a warm glow of pride to us. We wish the Oyuki gang all the best in their goal to conquer the slopes in North America.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 29

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HER FIRST

TRACKS Watching our daughter learn to ski in Niseko, from zero to novice WORDS & PHOTOS: DAVID & ANGIE SIM

It’s not every day that these kinds of things happen—standing out in the sub-zero cold with snow assailing my face, fingers frozen and my mouth wide with awe as my eightyear old daughter skis down, unaided, and starts waving at me! Just four days before, she was barely able to put on her skis. Now she is confidently skiing down the slopes of Niseko Grand Hirafu. How did my little angel go from an absolute beginner to a high-level novice in such a short period?

How did it all begin?

EVERYONE STARTS AS A FIRST-TIMER, DON’T GIVE UP! Our first ski encounter was part of an organised tour to South Korea back in 2012.

We were clumsy in our ski gear and ended up falling a lot. My daughter, only fouryears old at the time, got frustrated and gave up after just 10 minutes. We eventually settled for some fun time on a sled instead.

Undeterred by that experience, we still wanted to give our son and daughter another chance at skiing. At first, we considered the convenience of an indoor ski-school near our home in Singapore, but when we thought it through, what we really wanted for our children was a genuine experience. Just how real can skiing along perfectly smooth terrain in a T-shirt with no wind or snow rushing across your face be?

No, authenticity is what we needed.

We planned a family vacation at one of the best ski resorts Asia could offer— Niseko. Famed for its powdery snow,

good ski infrastructure and—best of all—professional ski schools with Englishspeaking instructors from around the world, we knew we were in for a good trip.

To be honest, as a parent, I was still apprehensive—especially since both Angie and I are non-skiers. Our chief concern was safety, but we also worried our daughter might come home discouraged if she couldn’t ski down the slope by the end of our trip. As an educator, I know full well that regardless of how glossy a program may look on its brochure, what it boils down to is the quality of the instructors.

It’s with these thoughts that I reflect on my family’s experience in Niseko as a group of first-time skiers.

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WHEN THE SKIS HIT THE SLOPES

TIPS AND ADVICE

How do you know if a lesson is effective?

Simple—if your child jumps out of bed and readies herself to head on out each morning, you know that she is loving the lessons. And this was exactly how it was every day in Niseko.

Seeing the snow coming down our daughter wouldn’t pause for a heartbeat.

In fact, I think learning to ski in Niseko enthused her even more. Seeing so many higher-level skiers out on the slopes having fun right in front of her was something we couldn’t hope to find in many other places here in Asia.

Her instructors were very assuring and positive. In fact, I met an adult colleague on the slopes who signed-up for a short beginner’s lesson herself because of how good her kids’ instructors were.

While the instructors are kind, there’s no sugar-coating the kids’ competencies.

Giving honest feedback is important in learning as long as it’s done in an affirming way. Every day, it was a joy to see our daughter skiing further and further. We felt heartened to see her confidence level rising as she mastered new skiing skills. It was a truly priceless memory.

Needless to say, we were very satisfied with our daughter’s first ski experience in Niseko. The snowy slopes haven’t stopped beckoning since we returned from our vacation and we’ve made a pact to bring the kids back to Niseko once more!

Registration Booking my daughters lessons in Niseko-Hirafu was a breeze. At first, we were somewhat daunted by the task as we were unsure as to whether we would have to speak or write in Japanese. It turned out that the hotel we were staying at was able to recommend us to a ski school just steps from their doors. A few quick emails later and our daughter was booked for four full days of ski school. All of this was done in English, which was a huge relief.

Equipment and Fitting To learn any skill properly, quality equipment is essential.

Right from the beginning, the good folks at our hotel and ski school had us covered with recommendations. We were able to pick up rentals in the heart of the Hirafu Village from one of the most experienced rental hire stores around. The staff guided us step-by-step through the process of picking out the most appropriate gear for ourselves and our daughter.

From her ski boots to her goggles, they ensured that everything was a perfect fit without any hurry. This is important as skiing is a sport involving speed and the equipment must be worn correctly to ensure that maximum protection and safety.

David and Angie are a Singaporean couple and the co-authors of the parenting site, Life’s Tiny Miracles (www.lifestinymiracles.com), recently recognised as one of the Top 10 popular family blogs in the Singapore Blog Awards.

SKI WEAR Prior to coming for the ski trip, it’s advisable that you purchase your own ski wear, but you can also get everything you need in the resort. Apart from the goggles and ski outerwear, you can rent any other essential ski equipment in resort: ski boots, ski poles, skis and helmets.

Please ensure you dress your children warmly with plenty of layers. Try to avoid cotton and instead go for polyester synthetics or wool.

SKI GOGGLES Many rental companies do not rent ski goggles. Be prepared to buy a pair or borrow some from a friend before you come. It’s important that the insides of the goggles are not touched or wiped as it will damage their anti-fog qualities, rendering them pretty useless.

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SKI HIRE: You will need to pick up your ski equipment from the sports rental store before your lesson starts, not at the ski school itself.

I’d recommend picking up your equipment the evening before your lessons begin so you are not rushed on the day of the lesson.

Your Niseko holiday, your way With the largest range of accommodation in Niseko and exceptional service, Niseko Central can accommodate all of your needs and make your winter holiday an unforgettable experience.

ď‚• 0136 23 3503 ď€ƒ stay@nisekocentral.com

www.nisekocentral.com EXPERIENCE NISEKO 33

ON-SNOW ACTION Niseko is more than just a powder paradise—it’s a winter wonderland.

IT DOESN’T MATTER IF YOU’RE A first timer or a seasoned veteran with permafrost stuck to your beard, Niseko has an abundance of ways to make the most of the snow. Of course, the most obvious involves strapping a pair of planks (or just one if you prefer) to your feet and catching a lift up the mountain, but here are a few of our favourite alternatives to add to your to-do-list when in the resort.

BACKCOUNTRY TOURS AND CAT SKIING

SNOWSHOE TOURS

Before we get too far from the mountain, one of the best alternative resort activities is to explore Niseko’s incredible backcountry.

There are a number of ways to do this and many backcountry tour guide companies have options for riders of all ability levels.

Whether you are doing a hiking tour or a cat ski tour, you are sure to have plenty of fun in the snow.

For those seeking a quiet way to enjoy the snow, snowshoe tours are a great low-intensity snow-based activity. A walk around Hangetsu Lake or along the Shiribetsu River is an easy way to experience Niseko’s winter scenery. You can even pick between daytime and evening tours for a totally new experience.

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING Skis were originally intended as a mode of winter transportation. Cross country skiing is a great way to enjoy skiing at a more leisurely pace, though your legs will still feel the burn! Whether you are just learning or are a X-country veteran, Niseko’s fluffy powder snow can be enjoyed in many places beyond the mountain.

PHOTOSHOOT Winter photoshoots are awesome options for those who are hoping to take home a handful of great shots to show their friends. Most photography companies here in Niseko can accommodate a shoot on the slopes or in the backcountry, but many are also willing to do a shoot off mountain too. Take a photo in your penthouse snuggled up by the fire or outside making snow angels!

How to Book Activities The easiest way to book activities is to ask the concierge service at your hotel or accommodation for assistance. Most accommodation providers in the area can help you to book winter adventures with ease. For those staying in places without such service, swing by Odin Place at the centre of the Hirafu Village and head to Explore Niseko’s 1st floor information desk. They can help you to set up reservations for a range of different activities.

■

050-5309-6905, explore-niseko.com

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SNOWMOBILE TOURS

INNER TUBING

Whether zipping through a travelled course or across a field of fresh powder snow, ripping along feeling the winter wind across your face is a real rush. Tours can range from a short 30 minutes to several hours, depending on what you are looking for.

Inner tubing is a surefire way to feel like a kid again. There are a number of places around the Niseko resort area where you and the kids can race down the slopes.

SNOWBIKE TOURS Still a fairly new addition to the Niseko activity lineup, snowbiking is great for thrill-seekers.

It is a bit more intensive than snowmobiling and is one step further in the extreme sports direction. Be ready for a day of adrenalinepumping action.

SEGWAYS Not just for CEOs touring the Silicon Valley office. Segways are actually a fantastic way to get around along a winter walking path.

SNOW BANANA BOAT Not many people can claim they’ve shredded fresh powder on a banana, but you can after a banana boat ride. Blow the minds of your friends on social media with this one!

EXPERIENCE EXPERIENCE NISEKO NISEKO 35 35

RIDE LIKE

JENNY

It’s not every day you get to shred backcountry powder with an Olympic medalist.

WORDS: MATT KAISER

Jenny Jones is one of the most successful pro snowboarders to come out of the United Kingdom. Competing in women’s slopestyle she claimed numerous gold medals at the X games and other major international events, climaxing in a bronze medal finish at the 2014 Sochi Winter Olympics.

For someone who has ridden pretty much everywhere in the world, we were delighted to hear just how much Jenny loved Niseko. When we asked her for her thoughts, Jenny said “my favourite thing in 2016 was my trip to Japan because although I visited many times in my career, I never really got to do a powder trip. I only ever came for contests. I got a whole two weeks of Japan and powder and I absolutely loved it”.

The snow rising off of Jenny’s turns floats up into the sky.

Photo: Hidde Hageman

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WAS IT SOMETHING I SAID? At the end of the trip, it’s hard to remember all of the fun and each incredible run and powder turn. Whether it was a joke or just pure elation half-way down the mountain, Jenny’s expression is that of pure joy and happiness Photo: Jason Horton

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You can see tiny ridges in the snow like this on perfectly still days when you make your second or third run down the slope.

Each ridge is caused by the settling snow sent adrift into the sky with each turn.

Photo: Jason Horton

POWDER HUNTER Knowing Jenny to be a big fan of Niseko powder, last season we invited her out with us on a cat skiing tour over at Chisenupuri, just behind Mt Niseko Annupuri. Weather can always be a bit fickle, but it was the perfect day to hit the backcountry. There was a soft but steady fall of snow throughout the day that continuously refilled our tracks. Each time we got off the cat to hit the slopes it was as though we had never been there before.

Our guide from House of Powder showed us and Jenny new routes through the trees and along the abandoned ski courses of what once was Rankoshi Town’s public ski resort. It was eerily quiet but stunningly beautiful coming down the deserted slopes alongside the old lift towers, which sat still and out of service.

The day was one of our highlights from last winter and we asked Jenny for her thoughts. “The cat skiing was really good.

It’s a bonus that there’s no hiking involved and you can get so many laps in”. Jenny felt that the course over at Chisenupuri would be a great starting point for those interested in getting into off-piste powder riding. “It’s a safe environment where they wouldn’t end up being too nervous. The slopes had a really good gradient where you can just sit back and enjoy the ride without worrying too much about what’s coming up in front of you”.

A diamond sun gleams behind Jenny and Yotei hovers in the distance Photo: Jason Horton.

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POWDER IS ALWAYS THE BEST PART OF ANY DAY! THOSE POWDER TURNS! SHARING THAT WITH YOUR FRIENDS AND HEARING THEM WHOOPING AND HOLLERING AS THEY CARVE ALONG AROUND YOU

CIRCUIT DAYS In many competitive sports, the best-of-the-best have been practicing since they started walking. We were curious about Jenny’s past and surprised to learn that she hadn’t started until much later. “I actually tried surfing first with my brothers. Anything they wanted to try I had to try too. When I was about seventeen, we went to a dry ski slope and that’s where it all began”. While Jenny started snowboarding a bit later, she had already led a sporty early life having competed in athletics and gymnastics all throughout her school years.

With balance and overall fitness already wellestablished, she picked up riding quickly. Following her college graduation, Jenny took to the seasonal lifestyle for a number of years, bouncing between snowboarding and surfing as the seasons turned. Her competitive circuit hit its highest point between 2009 when she won her first gold medal at the X Games USA and 2014 where she took home the bronze at the Sochi Olympics.

One of the toughest parts of living in the world of competitive sport is that your life becomes dedicated to your particular sport. It’s for that reason that Jenny didn’t get the chance to explore Japan’s incredible skiing scene and didn’t discover Niseko powder until after she decided to retire from the competitive circuit.

Before hopping into the back of the cat, Jenny stops to take a moment to greet House of Powder owner, Clayton Kernaghan. Photo: Hidde Hageman

COMPETITOR TURNED COACH Now that she has retired, Jenny has turned to coaching.

“I’ve always enjoyed coaching, but hadn’t gotten to do as much of it when I was competing myself”.

She runs workshops for intermediate and advanced riders, continuing to teach her passion to those who share her love of the sport. “The workshops take an all-round approach to snowboarding. Along with developing riding technique we also consider the mindset and mental aspect of snowboarding. Louise Jones, my ex-sports physiologist, runs evening sessions with clients, tackling areas such as fear or setbacks.

Working on mental techniques and visualisation off the snow leads to an improvement on the snow. Yoga is a strong element brought in alongside the exciting snowboarding and gives the week that well-needed balance of restorative elements”.

■ If you are interested in learning more about Jenny’s workshops please visit www.workshopbyjennyjones.com

Deep in the backcountry, we found an epic line of untouched snow marked with a number of pillows. Here’s Jenny on number two, launching herself into the air with a marvelous puff of powder blooming up around her. Photo: Jason Horton

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PICK YOUR LINE Three riders, three favourite lines—one for every level.

Chie Tanaka

BEGINNER RUN

INTERMEDIATE RUN

Chris Lewczynski first came to Japan in 2015 after spending twelve seasons bouncing between the northern and southern hemispheres teaching skiing. The allure of the deepest and lightest snow in the world is what originally drew him to Niseko. However, the famous local food and Japanese culture is what has convinced him to stay. Chris has been working for GoSnow for the last two seasons, where he runs the instructor training program and manages the operations at the Family Lift Base. As an expert in helping new skiers get on their way, we asked him for his favourite beginner level run.

“I enjoy taking new skiers down the Kogen run in Grand Hirafu. It’s a very diverse greenlevel run that offers a number of different ways to descend. As such, it can accommodate groups from absolute first-timers to novicelevel with new challenges to work on.

It’s a wide course with lots of space for newer skiers to navigate down. There are banks along the side of the run where you can practice edging. There’s a gentle natural pipe down the middle which can give the feeling of riding a roller coaster, which is great fun once you’ve got your sense of balance. New skiers can take it slow out in the open, while more advanced can work on navigating through the features along the course—Kogen has something for everyone.”

Chie Tanaka has been living in Niseko for twelve years now. It was her love of skiing that originally brought her here. She began as a ski instructor and has worked in all kinds of positions around the resorts. Now she works with HTM as their Domestic Sales Manager, but she still likes to duck out to help with the occasional lesson when she can. Chie has many favourite runs and provided us with two of her favourite intermediate level courses.

“When I was an instructor, I liked to go to Kokutai with my intermediate level students.

It has a great incline and plenty of room for

them to practice their turns. You do have to be careful, though, as sometimes people will pop out from the woods where the King Quad Lift runs up.

My personal favourite is the Yotei Sunset course up at the top of Mt Annupuri between Grand Hirafu and Hanazono. It’s a slightly more challenging, advanced level course and tends to be a bit less ridden, even these days.

The course is protected from the wind, usually has good snow and—true to its name—has an incredible view of Mt Yotei when the sun starts to set.”

Chris Lewczynski

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ADVANCED RUN Hiromi Tatsumi has become a well-known figure here in Niseko. He is a rider on the Gentemstick pro team, a Patagonia brand ambassador and a winter and summer representative at Youtei Outdoor. Hiromi first moved to Niseko in the winter of 1998/99.

Like many, it was Niseko’s powder snow that drew him here. During the winter of 2008, he suffered a life-changing injury that left him paralyzed from the waist down. Hiromi was not one to give up his passions and continues to enjoy the snow as one of the world’s most skilled chairboarders. Being so intimately familiar with Niseko, we asked him to share his favourite advanced level run.

“My favourite course is one which every Niseko regular knows well, the Super Course located just below the Ace Quad Lift Centre 4.

Hiromi Tatsumi

It’s particularly nostalgic for me to ride it as in my early days here in Niseko, you would often be able to ride it and find fresh, unbroken snow well into the day. These days, that is a bit of a rarity.

The course has a good incline to it that is full of interesting terrain to interact with. As

you navigate the course, you can wave up to riders on the lift. I enjoy riding up the lift and picking out what terrain I want to try and hit when I come back down.”

Whatever your level, Niseko will provide ample opportunity to enjoy your time on the snow as well as a target to improve towards!

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Gear

REVIEW

BY ZAKA

Zaka is a boutique store that presents the very best in luxury alpine apparel. It showcases a collection of brands that have been selected based on their combination of performance, technology and style. Located in the heart of Niseko, the store has been specifically designed to create an elegant and comfortable shopping experience. Zaka’s staff are all knowledgeable, friendly and accustomed to providing the best possible service.

Women’s Bogner Estee Pant (left) These ski-dungarees are made from water repellent fabric with a four-way stretch. They are stylish, comfortable and versatile. The high-rise bib is also a guaranteed answer to keeping the powder snow out and the warmth in.

Women’s Bogner Elena Jacket (below) This down jacket is both unique and highly functional.

The flower embroidery is a luxurious highlight, while the goose down filling and snow guard sealing will keep you warm and dry both on and off the slopes.

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Men’s Kjus Linard Jacket (right) This jacket looks like a shirt but is actually made using powerful insulation material! It is both stylish and comfortable and comes in a stretch fabric with soft hand warmer pockets.

Women’s Kjus The Mitt 2.0 The Mitt 2.0 from Kjus is made from premium down, which provides the best possible heatretention-to-weight ratio of any insulation. Soft goatskin leather covers the palms for good grip and dexterity.

Women’s Sorel 1964 Premium Wedge Sorel has created the ultimate in stylish après footwear. The 1964 Premium Wedge is made from waterproof full grain leather and coated canvas. The rubber sole has extra grip to keep you upright when the streets are slippery.

Men’s Hestra Tallberg Leather Glove This classic leather après glove is made from elk leather, sourced from Finland and Sweden, and lined with warm fleece. The leather has a beautiful, supple grain texture while the fleece provides excellent insulation.

Men’s Kjus Formula Pro Pant (right) These high-rise, streamlined pants are the ultimate in comfort and performance. The fabric is also resistant to tears and abrasions so it can’t be harmed by sharp ski edges.

Zipper ventilation helps you cool off when you’ve skied hard.

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UNDER THE STARS Every evening as the sun sets and the lights flicker on, a winter wonderland comes to life.

WORDS: MATT KAISER PHOTO: NOLAN YOSHIAKI ISOZAKI

As the day comes to a close, most skiers turn in and don’t return for an evening run. Those who do venture back are rewarded with a feeling of ownership over the mountain. Even during the busiest times of year, night skiing still only sees a fraction of the numbers that flock to the lifts during the day.

If it isn’t already on your bucket list, night skiing in Niseko is one to add and cross off next time you’re here. With the largest illuminated night skiing area in all of Asia—also consistently ranked among the best places for night skiing globally—Mt Niseko Annupuri is a glowing beacon during the dark winter nights.

Sometimes, a heavy storm can shut down sections of the resort during the day. On days like this, as the winds die down in the evening, swathes of fresh, untouched powder are waiting to be enjoyed by an eager night skier.

It isn’t just the skiing that makes going up the mountain at night special. The view out across the Niseko landscape when the sun has set is something spectacular that words and even photos cannot do justice to. Little clusters of lights off in the distance mark towns and villages or a full moon behind Mt Yotei can give the lonely mountain a glowing outline in the darkness.

Of the four Niseko resorts, Niseko-Hirafu has the widest area of illuminated ski field to explore when darkness envelops the mountain. On clear nights, chalets and condominiums throughout the Hirafu Village light up to become a mirror to the night sky.

On snowy and overcast evenings, the entire village casts a warm glow into the evening air creating a luminescent mountain village like something out of a storybook. Whether a clear night or a snowy one, be sure to step out onto the slopes at night and experience this wonder for yourself.

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WINTER

WARMERS WORDS: MATT KAISER

NIHONSHU (SAKE) GIVEN THAT JAPAN’S ANCIENT culinary traditions often revolve around local produce and the changing seasons, it’s unsurprising that much of Hokkaido’s iconic cuisine is a remedy to a cold winter evening. Warm dishes like soup curry, nabe (hot pot) and ramen are real favourites when it is cold. And, no winter evening would be complete without a warm drink to accompany the meal! A cup of hot chocolate or green tea is great, but a heated tokkuri (ceramic pitcher) of nihonshu can really hit the spot, sending your body into a blissful state. To learn more about the best ways to stave off the cold, we spoke to a few local experts.

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NIHONSHU IS A REALLY DIVERSE DRINK and can be served in a number of different ways.

Many come to quickly understand that it can be served cold or hot, but in reality, there are a variety of levels to how hot it is served and all of this can affect or even destroy the flavour of the drink. It doesn’t need to be served warm to make it a good choice for a cold winter night.

“When nihonshu is heated and served at 50°C or above it is called atsukan. At 45°C, it is called jokan, at 40°C it is called nurukan and at 37°C, roughly human body temperature, it is called hito hada kan,” explained Naoki Hata. He is a trained hotel and restaurant bartending professional with over 15 years of experience behind the bar counter. We spoke to Naoki in An Dining, where he worked until this winter. You can now find him in Toshiro’s Bar. “When heated to body temperature, the alcohol begins to become aromatic and when it reaches 40°C it hits the peak of its aroma.

When you reach jokan level, the flavour of the alcohol starts to change and become sharper and once you reach 50°C, it turns dry. It’s best not to go too far above 50°C. Once you reach

70°C you will have destroyed the drink and the alcohol will evaporate”.

There are many different types of nihonshu just as there are varieties of red and white wines. Nihonshu are also ranked on a hierarchy. Honjozo is considered the lowest while Junmai Daiginjo is considered the most prestigious. “Many years ago, heating up higher rated nihonshu would have been looked at quite negatively.”

“Of course, we serve nihonshu from across Japan, but are also lucky to be able to serve a number of different bottles from Kutchan Town’s local brewery, Niseko Shuzo,” Naoki told us as he pulled out two of their bottles, a tokubetsu junmai and a junmai ginjo.

“I notice a lot of our overseas guests are really keen to try these two because they are local.” Naoki serves them up both chilled and heated. Junmai ginjo is the second-highest on the rating scale and it is only recently that it became considered acceptable to serve it heated. For the very best of experiences, Naoki would recommend guests try both heated and chilled to taste the differences for themselves and see which they prefer.

NABE WHILE NABE MIGHT NOT SPRING TO MIND when you think of Japanese food, it’s very much a dish which most Japanese people would categorise as a comfort food. “Nabe is considered kattei ryori or everyday household cuisine,” said Tsukasa Shimizu, the owner of Abucha 2. “It is a dish that Japanese people grow up eating every year when winter rolls around. When the weather is cold, it’s one of the first dishes to spring to mind”.

Nabe comes in many shapes and forms but in most cases, the soup flavour is what defines the dish. For

example, a kimchi nabe is best with sliced pork, while a miso nabe tastes better with chunks of chicken. “There are infinite combinations when it comes to nabe. Much like ramen, even slight changes can alter the entire flavour and experience. Even if two restaurants cooked the same seafood nabe, the taste would still be different”.

Abucha has been operating in Hirafu for over 15 years now since Tsukasa first moved to the Niseko area from his hometown of Yokohama. His izakaya (Japanese-style pub) menu hasn’t changed much in that time and its winter hot pot has always been number one. “Even in the beginning, our overseas guests were pouring in to eat our nabe dishes.

Among Australians, sukiyaki was the most in demand, but with more Asian guests visiting recently, our shabu shabu and seafood nabe have grown more popular too”.

There are eight different types of nabe to choose from at Abucha and each one is different from the next. When the weather starts to get cold in Niseko, the best way to combat it is with something warm and filling which is why nabe will remain number one for many here in Japan.

SOUP CURRY “IT’S FUN TO WATCH GUESTS CHALLENGING themselves and slowly upping the spiciness when they come back a second or third time,” Keiji Sakai, the owner of Tsubara Tsubara told us. “I’ll often overhear them saying to each other, “well last time I had level three, so this time I’ll try four or five” and it makes me remember one customer who worked his way up to level 40 over the course of a year!”, he said with a laugh. “Oddly enough, he never came back after that. I would love to meet him again.”

“I think that the ability to customise your soup, and increase the level of spiciness is part of what makes soup curry so good during the winter. The spiciness is like an extra guard against the cold.” Of course, there is much more to soup curry than just raw heat. Keiji also noted that the incredible fresh vegetables and Mt Yotei spring water are vital ingredients for his restaurant’s dishes too.

“The spices and vegetables are also really good for you.

Since starting Tsubara Tsubara ten years ago, I haven’t once caught a cold!”

Soup curry is relatively new in the world of Japanese cuisine and it emerged in Sapporo almost by accident.

“There was an Indian restaurant in the city where they would make a soup out of medicinal herbs and spices,” Keiji explained. “At first it was just the broth, but some of their regulars thought it a waste without toppings and added meat and vegetables”. This was back in the 1970s and it wasn’t until 1993 that another restaurant in Sapporo minted the term ‘soup curry’.

Now there are hundreds of soup curry restaurants across Hokkaido, all creating their own variations of the dish.

There was a soup curry craze through the 1990s and early 2000s and that was part of why Keiji decided to move forward with the restaurant. “I actually trained as a Japanese cuisine

chef and had no formal background with soup curry. I had to create my soup entirely from scratch, running around to different restaurants and trying theirs.” It took Keiji three years before he finally felt satisfied with Tsubara Tsubara’s soup base. His aim was to create a base that had an exciting flavour but which was still child-friendly as many of his guests are families travelling to Niseko on vacation.

“It’s been really rewarding to see so many familiar faces coming back each year. When I first started, I wasn’t certain that the restaurant would last more than four or five years, but now it’s been ten.” During the winter, Tsubara Tsubara is packed with skiers from the mountain and sometimes it can be tough to get a seat.

Many of Keiji’s customers are return visitors to Niseko and to his restaurant and it is fantastic for him to see so many overseas guests enjoying this unique Hokkaido specialty.

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Anything But Skiing!

Not everyone who visits Niseko is coming here to ski or snowboard. In fact, more and more winter guests are asking what else there is to do when they aren’t on the slopes. Here are a few great ways to enjoy your time, without strapping on a pair of skis.

Yoga The growing health and wellness community in Niseko has led to a burgeoning yoga scene with a number of different studios offering classes throughout the area. During the winter, the largest studio is Powder Yoga, which runs multiple daily classes in the 5th floor yoga studio in AYA Niseko. You can drop in for a class or pick up a weekly, monthly or season pass if you are here for longer. (Powder Yoga, www.powderyoga.com)

You probably won’t find Yuko Miyake, Experience Niseko’s Japanese editor, out playing in the snow, so we asked Yuko for her top recommendation.

“I love my quiet time and I enjoy exploring Niseko’s museums and galleries in search of peace. Not only can you see all kinds of art, but the quiet atmosphere is relaxing.

Niseko is home to a range of galleries and museums. Some are large, such as the five major Shiribeshi-region art museums while others are smaller and housed within hotels such as AYA Niseko and Ki Niseko.

I recommend heading into Kutchan Town to the History Museum for a fascinating insight into the local wildlife and the town itself in the more distant past. Right next to the History Museum, you can find the Shu Ogawara Museum of Art where you can enjoy both his artwork and an incredible view of Mt Yotei.

If you go to the Shu Ogawara gallery first, you can get a free ticket to the history museum”.

Shopping If you are attending shopaholics anonymous, Niseko might not satiate you completely, but there are all kinds of Japanese trinkets and souvenirs to be found whether you are browsing through hotel gift shops or popping in and out of stores in Kutchan Town. If you are looking for something fancy, be sure to check out one of Niseko’s boutique shops, such as Zaka located on the 2nd floor of Odin Place in Niseko-Hirafu. (zakaniseko.com)

Swimming If you are a swimmer and looking to get some lengths in or just simply enjoy making a splash, be sure to swing by Hotel Niseko Alpen’s swimming pool. The pool is open from noon and a great option is to buy a combined pass to the pool and onsen. Apart from the main pool, there are also saunas, a Jacuzzi and a kids’ pool. Lockers and swimming caps are provided free of charge. (0136-22-1105, hotel-nisekoalpen.jp)

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Onsen Soaking in an onsen is one of the best ways to relax.

Whether you are dipping in first thing in the morning, just after lunch or at the end of a long day on the slopes, onsen are divine. There are over twenty onsen that are open to guests for day-use and even more that are exclusive to staying hotel guests. If where you are staying doesn’t have an onsen, be sure to check out our website for a list of places to try in Niseko. (experienceniseko.com/onsen)

Tea Ceremony Slow things down over a cup of tea. Traditional tea ceremonies are highly ritualised, down to movements of how you serve and drink the tea and even to what kinds of topics you should speak of while participating. There are often pop-up cultural demonstrations in the resorts and hotels. Somoza, just past Hanazono, is open yearround and has a special tea room for demonstrations.

(0136-55-8741, somoza.jp)

Cooking Classes

Photography

Looking to learn a bit more about Japanese culture? Try a cooking class during your stay. Learn how to make Japanese soba (buckwheat) noodles from scratch or, if you are really ambitious, a full traditional washoku (Japanese style) course meal. The best part about cooking classes is you get to eat your creation at the end! (Cooking with Eri: info@eris-kitchen.com, Soba-making at NOC: noc-hokkaido.jp)

Don’t forget to take plenty of pictures, whether you have a fancy camera or just your phone. Be sure to share it with us on Facebook and Instagram! #experienceniseko @experienceniseko

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JoJo’s at NAC

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FUN AND FOOD WITH THE FAMILY Travelling with your children is a great chance to bond. Showing them new places and things, enabling them to try new experiences and new tastes can be one of life’s biggest rewards as a parent.

Yet as every mum and dad knows, sometimes it can be tough too. No one here in Niseko knows this better than Mikano Okuda, the mother of twin boys! A masseuse by trade, Mikano juggles work and family like a pro.

“We have lots of friends and family who come to visit us, so it is nice to have such a selection of places to choose from where I know we can go with the twins. We are almost through with the troublesome twos, but they are really quite good when we go out to a place with a proper kids’ area”.

“When my mother is in town, I like to go to Bleu Cielo. The play area is really large and the kids’ menu is just right. When we go out with friends, we sometimes like to try and reserve the kids’ room at Karaoke Utaya.

There is a TV with a DVD player and plenty of toys to keep my boys busy and once in a while they will come over and sing into the microphones with us. Pretty soon they will be big enough to sing themselves, I hope they like singing as much as I do!”.

Fortunately, Niseko has many restaurants and activities where mums and dads, like Mikano and her husband, can rest easy knowing their children are welcome and well looked after. Here are some of Niseko’s most kid-friendly restaurants with space for young ones to play.

NAC and JoJo’s This is a great place to swing by with the family for a meal and some fun. NAC has a first-floor bouldering wall and rock climbing wall where your kids can wear themselves out under the supervision of NAC’s qualified climbing instructors while you enjoy a coffee from the viewing platform upstairs. For children up to twelve, there is a Jungle Gym on the second-floor with ball pits, slides and more. (0136-23-2093, nacadventures.jp)

Guzu Guzu This bakery on the outskirts of NisekoHirafu has a children’s play area that is suitable for children under the age of ten. It is a popular recluse for mums and dads who need a bit of quiet time while they enjoy a coffee and pastry. Winter sees daily specials on the menu and a range of delicious pizzas and sandwiches are available for lunch.

(0136-21-4855, guzuguzu.com)

Bleu Cielo An Italian-inspired restaurant, Bleu Cielo has a large backroom which is perfect for large groups. One corner of the room houses a play area with toys for young children. Bleu Cielo is a nice spot for families looking for an evening out of the resort. The pizza and pasta are delicious, but we recommend the “Dutch Oven” as a unique and tasty option.

Kids’ meals are available from 500 yen.

(0136-22-3255, bleucielo.exblog.jp)

Mandoriano Pizza is a favourite for many kids, so a kidfriendly pizza restaurant can be a lifesaver!

Keep this one in your back pocket for the next time the kids are being fussy over where to go for lunch. Great pizza for the family, a fun space to play for the kids and a moment of peace and quiet for the parents. You can also get some yummy soft-serve ice cream for dessert from the nearby Milk Kobo.

(0136-44-3735, niseko-takahashi.jp)

Taj Mahal Although there is not a play area, this Indian restaurant has a great value kids plate with curry, rice and naan bread that will keep your little ones smiling and warm.

In addition, the friendly staff will hand out mini elephants for the kids to play with while you get stuck trying to choose between all the delicious options on their extensive menu. There are several Taj Mahal restaurants around the Niseko area. Most guests will find the Niseko-Annupuri and Kutchan Town stores the best for dining with children, but there is also a Taj Mahal kitchen truck next to Seicomart in the Hirafu Village. (Kutchan: 0136-22-4566, Annupuri: 0136-55-8697, tajmahalgroup.com)

Mandoriano

Karaoke Utaya This Japanese-style karaoke parlour offers over twenty private booth karaoke rooms to choose from. They have one kids’ room which is perfect for families with small children. For older children with favourite songs of their own, any room would be suitable. There is a range of English, Korean, Japanese and Chinese songs to choose from.

We recommend booking the kids’ room in advance. You may require assistance from your accommodation provider to do so as they do not have English-speaking staff.

(0136-21-2088)

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Ainu Roots When experiencing a new place, it is important to appreciate not just the people who are sharing their home with you now, but the history of the land. For those enjoying the snowy paradise that is Niseko, that means recognising the Ainu, the indigenous people of Hokkaido.

WORDS: KIRSTEN FAIRBAIRN

An Ethnic People: Language and Traditions The Ainu are both ethnically and culturally distinct from the Japanese people, made clear by the Japanese name given to them and their lands; Ezo (蝦夷). The Chinese characters translate directly to mean “shrimp barbarian” but the word was used as a synonym of foreigner.

The Ainu have mongoloid ancestry and many have traditionally European features like curly hair and light skin and eyes. Contrary to the clean-cut Japanese style, Ainu men often grew out their beards and women would undergo facial tattooing to ward off evil spirits.

The identity of Niseko is rooted in Ainu history and language. The name translates to mean “a cliff jutting over a riverbank deep in the mountains” in the Ainu language. Many of the cities and towns of Hokkaido have Ainu roots; the capital city Sapporo derived from sapporope, meaning “vast, dry river”.

The nearby town of Kutchan means “place where the channel flows” in the Ainu language. The Ainu word for mountain is nupuri, which is why there are so many mountains in the area with nupuri in the name. Not just Annupuri, but Iwaonupuri, Chisenupuri and Nitonupuri too.

Most Ainu traditions are centered on their religion and the natural world. They have many unique dances, songs, ceremonies and instruments which have become a rarity these days with the near extinction of their culture and people. The word Ainu is described as the opposite of kamui or god, and the Ainu see all things but themselves as forms of kamui.

After serving their purpose in this world, it is thought that all entities except humans return to a godly world of their own.

The Ainu pray before each meal and hunt to ensure the spirits of plants and animals are safely returned to the spirit world.

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Scenes of Daily Life of the Ezo, Hirasawa Byouzan, British Museum

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Surviving the Winter As those who have experienced winter in Niseko know, walking through powder snow can be difficult. The Ainu developed tools such as sleds and snowshoes to make the Hokkaido winters more manageable. They designed their houses and buildings to be well up off the ground to account for the heavy snowfalls and to prevent their houses from being buried beneath the snow.

Even more important than mobility in winter was the necessity of staying warm.

Due to Hokkaido’s harsh climate, traditional Ainu clothing is quite different from that of mainland Japan. Rather than lightweight cotton or silk kimono, most Ainu clothing was made of animal hide and or plant materials. Ainu clothing was traditionally simple, but decorative ruunpe clothing would feature intricate embroidery with distinct patterns only found in Ainu art and artefacts.

The Ainu relied heavily on hunting, especially during the winter months. It ensured they would have warm clothing to protect them against the cold and replenished their food supplies during the long season. Everything from Ezo rabbits to deer would be hunted, for both meat and hide. During the late winter and early spring, hunters would even go after Ezo bears, still weak and weary from their winter sleep.

Most Ainu hunters would use arrows and spears to take down their prey, sometimes coating their tips with a homemade poison known as ‘surku’ in the Ainu language.

In order to survive these long winters, the Ainu developed a process of boiling and drying meats in a special storehouse called a ‘pu’. They would stock up vast amounts of meat, fish and vegetables and carefully store them so to last them until the snows melted.

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Integration and Revitalisation As with the history of most colonized regions, the integration of the Ainu population to the Japanese is a somewhat sensitive and controversial topic. With the introduction of the Meiji Restoration in 1868 came harsh assimilation policies which denied the freedom to practice traditional Ainu customs. It wasn’t until a law enacted in 1997 lifted these policies.

There are an estimated 23,000 Ainu remaining in Hokkaido though it is believed that there are many more who are unaware of their Ainu heritage. With no written form of the language and as few as 15 fluent speakers, it is feared the language could soon become extinct.

However, hope is not lost as many younger Japanese people have become

more interested in the history of the land, Ainu culture and language. This push to revive not only the language, but the dances, ceremonies and history of the Ainu people encourages pride in those who descend from them. Recently, in 2008, the push for recognition and revitalisation has spread from the people to the government and has led to official recognition of the Ainu as an indigenous people.

Where to Learn More Hokkaido has a number of Ainu memorials and museums where you can learn about, see and touch all kinds of Ainu artefacts.

Shiraoi Town houses the closest museum that is entirely dedicated to Ainu history and culture. The Shiraoi Ainu Museum is about 90-minute drive during the winter season. (ainu-museum.or.jp)

Doorstep access to Niseko’s world famous snow

Perhaps it’s the breathtaking views of Mt. Yotei.

Or Chef Shinichi’s delicious Hokkaido cuisine.

Maybe it’s the thrill of world-class skiing.

Or the unforgettable personal service.

Ski-in ski-out at Hokkaido’s #1 ranked hotel and experience the magic of winter in Niseko.

www.kiniseko.com EXPERIENCE NISEKO 59

TAP THE KEG Step inside Niseko Breweing for a glimpse of the growing Japanese craft beer scene.

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FROM THE OUTSIDE, the casual observer would never know there was a microbrewery inside the former office building Niseko Brewing call their home. But through the doors, they are producing about 15 kilolitres of beer a year. That’s enough to fill over 42,000 beer bottles. Even so, the owner of the re-opened Niseko Brewing Company, Shigeru Sakurai, believes his company to be one of the smallest breweries in all of Japan.

“The craft beer boom that is spreading across all of Japan has most of the breweries buying bigger and bigger brewing tanks”, he explained. “We would also like to get larger tanks, as we are currently at our maximum capacity, but it is not likely something that we will be able to do for a few more years at least”.

The story of Niseko Brewing begins over a decade ago with its predecessor, Niseko Beer. Brewed by former police officer, Mitsuteru Kawaminami, Niseko Beer was sold at his local Niseko restaurant called Tanto. After a run of about ten years,

Kawaminami decided it was time to close his restaurant’s doors and with it, end Niseko Beer.

There was a big push from within the local community to keep Niseko Beer alive.

It was at this time that Shigeru Sakurai, former Tanto regular, stepped forward to revitalise the brewery. The Niseko Town Council paved the way forward giving him the town’s old Chamber of Commerce building and Kawaminami generously offered up his old brewing equipment.

“I always liked drinking beer, but when I agreed to the task I didn’t have any particular love for craft beer. I just wanted to keep my friend’s brewing legacy alive. It wasn’t until I started to study the brewing process that I began to appreciate craft beer”, said Sakurai when asked why he took on the challenge.

Despite not having much initial love for the drink, Sakurai didn’t hold back. He quickly organised the renovation of the new brewery, travelled to Yamanashi to study the

SAKURAI’S RECOMMENDATION FOR THOSE NEW TO CRAFT BEER

AFTERGLOW PALE ALE Our Pale Ale is the most similar to major brewer’s lagers. For those who aren’t used to the variation that craft beer can bring, it is a good easy step into the craft beer world. The caramel coloured beer has a slightly stronger hops flavour that adds a slight bitterness at the end. ABV. 5%

GOLDEN FLOWER PILSNER A great follow-up to the Pale Ale, our Pilsner is an easy second step into the world of craft beer. It is brewed with wheat which gives it a slightly sweeter flavour than standard beers. This golden hued beer is crisp and light and is quite easy to drink. ABV. 4.5%

EZO PORTER Once you have started to gain appreciation for the subtle differences the Pale Ale and Pilsner bring, our Porter is a good choice to leap into the deep end and explore the creativity that craft beer can have. It is brewed with dashi (dried salmon flakes), konbu (seaweed) and shiitake mushrooms and has a well-rounded and warm flavour. ABV. 6%

DEEP POWDER INDIA PALE ALE brewing process under legendary Japanese brewmaster Satoshi Niwa and underwent the strict process of obtaining new brewing licenses. He did all of this between the spring of 2013 and August 2014 when the newly minted Niseko Brewing Company served its first official beer.

Niseko Brewing’s first was was its India Pale Ale (IPA), followed shortly after by their Pilsner. Since 2014, they have expanded their line up to a total of eight different types of beer of which five are brewed throughout the year and three are available seasonally.

Their most recent beer is their Oyster Stout, which is brewed with oysters caught locally in nearby Suttsu Town.

Sakurai aims to use as many local ingredients as possible. “All of the water we use for brewing comes from natural Mt Yotei springs and we have started commissioning hops from a farm in Furano. Our Rosée Beer uses organic grapes and honeysuckle berries from Yoichi and our Pumpkin Ale is made using Niseko-grown pumpkins”.

We brew this beer using two different kinds of hops, creating a more complicated bitter flavour with hints of citrus. While most IPAs are strong and bitter, this one is a good first step into the world of IPAs and is quite drinkable even for a first-timer. ABV. 5.5%

NADESHIKO ROSÉE BIERE This pink beer is great for those who are not particularly fond of beers.

We brew it using organic grapes and honeysuckle berries from nearby Yoichi Town, which gives it a very light and fruity flavour. ABV. 4%

HIMAWARI BELGIAN ALE This wheaty Belgian beer is light and fruity, too. Like many Belgian beers, it is brewed with fruit to create a more aromatic flavour—you will find a hint of coriander and orange dance across your tongue as you drink this one. ABV. 5%

WHERE TO FIND NISEKO BEER Niseko Brewing Co. is located in Niseko Town. They run a bar and restaurant on the second floor of the brewery and are open throughout the winter season. You can also find Niseko Beer on tap or in bottles at a number of locations around the Niseko resorts such as The Niseko Taproom, Niseko View Plaza and Lucky Supermarket. (0136-55-5664)

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ES OR !

F IC R D SON P E C A DU 8 SE E R -1 17 0 2

Whether you’re a first-timer, an experienced powder-hound or just looking for safe and professional instruction for the kids, GoSnow has you covered.

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• • • •

MORE PRIORITY LIFT LINES MORE INSTRUCTORS 2 BASE LOCATIONS 3 MAGIC CARPETS

GREAT VALUE LESSONS, PRICELESS MEMORIES

204 Aza Yamada, Kutchan-cho, Abuta-gun, Hokkaido 044-0081, Japan

www.gosnowniseko.com

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 63

Deep Powder, Soft Focus WORDS: CHRIS PICKERING PHOTOS: DALE GOULDING

Dale Goulding has had a long association with Niseko, first visiting in 1993. As with many early western visitors the attractions were obvious and numerous; amazing snow, breathtaking countryside, delicious local food and charming and friendly people.

Together with his brother Glenn, Dale established one of the original international tour companies in the area in 1995. Deep Powder Snow Holidays (formerly Deep Powder Tours) was born and started bringing Australians to Niseko.

Those early years were a hard slog and convincing the Australian public to ski in Japan was no easy task because everyone was still going to Europe and North America.

The initial attraction to Niseko was simply down to the quality of the snow, but the area presented so much more. Dale had a love of photography and while the brothers tried to get their tour company up and running, he used to shoot all their promotional material.

As he was one of only five foreigners in town, Dale said the hardest thing was

64 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

trying to find other people on the mountain to take action photos with. The Japanese tourists generally stuck to the groomed areas leaving wide swatches of Niseko powder untouched.

Over time Dale turned his attention to landscapes. Japan is an incredibly photogenic country, the countryside in particular is stunning and pristine. In winter Dale tends to carry his camera with him at all times. As it snows almost constantly that ‘light’ moment can be so brief and you need to be prepared.

Since the early 1990s Niseko has undergone a dramatic transformation and Dale still maintains his collection of early photographs archived as slide film. While digital photography has made life much easier he looks back on those first photos of his time in Niseko with fond memories.

Over the following pages is a snapshot of some of Dale’s work along with his comments on the images. If you are interested in learning more or finding something for your wall, please contact him directly.

Contact and prints: www.imagesbydale.com.au facebook.com/imagesbydale Instagram: @images_by_dale

I never tire of photographing Mt Yotei, it has such a presence in the area towering over the surrounding landscape. I am sure it is the reason behind the incredible snowfalls that Niseko receives, acting as a magnet for the Siberian storms.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 65

My favourite all time photo. Two trees and a barn just on the outskirts of Niseko in the Kutchan farming area. The shot immediately caught my eye when I was racing past on the way to Kiroro ski resort.

These days I put photography first even on a powder day! Those very same mornings where the snow is fresh present incredible photo opportunities in the right light. This photograph is a 2-image panorama stitched together in Adobe Lightroom.

Circa 1998 – The guy in the middle wearing the old school red and black jacket was a local westerner by the name of Bob Hoff. He was a guy I met who liked to ski powder, so he became my photo guy. Bob was one of the first English teachers in the area and he is still around, although I lost contact with him many years ago.

66 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Autumn is such a special time in Niseko, the trees come to life displaying abundant colour. Other than pines the majority of trees are deciduous from the maple family.

The best time to visit Niseko for autumn colour is early October. This photograph is a 2-image panorama stitched together in Adobe Lightroom.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 67

Mt Yotei’s reflection in the crystal water. I shot this photo early in the morning in the middle of October 2017. You can see the autumn colour in the trees and the first snowfall on Mt Yotei. At this time of year, winter is just around the corner and heavier snowfalls can start as early as mid-November.

My son Kyle in the winter of 2016.

Kyle has been skiing in Niseko for seven seasons now since he was eight years old. His favourite area is wide of the ski resort boundaries, where the powder is bottomless and untracked.

68 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

Circa 1998 – Another shot of my old mate Bob Hoff. Notice how even on a clear day all these old shots have not another rider in sight!

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 69

SKI ETIQUETTE

Our guide to the main DOs and DON’Ts on the ski slopes ILLUSTRATIONS: ADRIANA DANAILA

GIVE RIGHT OF WAY

ALWAYS STAY IN CONTROL

There’s a simple rule on the slopes; people ahead of you have right of way. It’s the responsibility of skiers behind to react and avoid a collision.

Put your ego aside; slow down when approaching someone in front and give them space.

Some areas can get crowded and you need to be able to react fast to what is happening around you. Not confident in your ability? YouTube and your friends can only teach you so much; take a lesson!

DON’T STOP IN THE MIDDLE OF A RUN

BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR GEAR

Whether for a photo, a rest or waiting for your friends; off to the side and out of the way is the key. You might be in a blind spot over a rise; look up the slope to see if people can clearly see and avoid you.

No need to do a comedy routine with your skis over your shoulder and you turn around to whack your friend in the back of the head. You’ll sometimes see snowboards hurtling down the mountain without their rider too.

70 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

SHARE A LIFT No one likes long lines created when lifts are going up not at full capacity. Jump on with a stranger, spark up a conversation and you’ll be surprised; you might just get a great restaurant or ski run tip.

HELP SOMEONE IN NEED

DON’T SMOKE ON THE LIFTS

If you see someone stack it in front, a quick, ‘Are you okay?’ (dai-jo-bu in Japanese) while picking up their skis/poles/beanie goes a long way. If someone is injured, call ski patrol or inform the closest lift attendant.

You may be outside but people are here to also enjoy the fresh air. There are designated smoking areas at the rest areas.

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 71

Explore the delicious flavours of Hokkaido Supermarket

9:30am-9pm

Open Everyday Show your Niseko Passport

Except New Year’s Day

and

0136-21-3677

GET 5% OFF!

Otaru Station

Kutchan

Kyogoku GS

Kutchan Intersection

B

Hirafu & Niseko

ATM withdraw cash

72 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

/

Currency exchange 12-6pm

/

English-speaking staff 12-8pm

/

Rest space with free wi-fi 12-7pm

/

Duty free

National Highway

Kutchan Chamber of Commerce

Tax-free Shop

/

¥100 store excl. tax

Get around Niseko with ease.

With a fleet of vehicles ranging from sedans for up to four passengers to maxi taxis for up to nine passengers, Sprint Taxi caters for all your needs.

Booking is easy too, with the Taxi Caller App. Pay by credit card in-car or on the app.

ï‚• 0136-55-5400

Download the Taxi Caller App

nisekotaxi.com EXPERIENCE NISEKO 73

74 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 75

Village Map A

B

C

D Ikigai

Chalet Luma

Hirafu West Village

Heiwa Lodge Pluming

Higashiyama area

Dog Paddle

Alpine Estate Tudibaring

Kabayama Townhouses

Shiosai (Sen Niseko Spor Niseko Spor

Summit

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Nozomi Views

Boot Solution Rhythm Japan

343

Hirafu Main Village

Gentemstick Showroom

The Set

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Aspara Lodge Aspara Tour

Powder

The Setsumon Nozomi

Always Niseko Elements

Kabayama North

Alice

Amuse Rental The Trees

Suiboku

Famille inn Ramina St.Moritz Log House

Lupicia Pâtisserie Lupicia Restaurant

Robata Niseko Naniwatei

Suiboku A-Bu-Cha 2

St. Moritz Village

Niseko KASHINOYA Lupicia Boutique

NBS Ski School NBS Rental NBS Retail

Phoenix

Green Saso

Atelier de Niseko

1

Vader SilverFox

Hirafu-Za

Puku puku tei

Yorokobi Lodge

Gloorious Coffee

Ski area

Nest at the Trees

Kabayama Primary School

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Kabayama House

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MnK Niseko The Orchards Niseko Rising Sun Guides

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Niseko Alpine Apartments 2 Kiraku

First Tracks

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GOSNOW (Gondola Snowsports)

Country Resort Niseko Hirafu West Village

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Chalet Murasaki

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Alpen Ridge

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The Vale Niseko

Snow Crystal

Odin Pla Sun Sports Land Niseko Promotion Board Alpen Ridge NBS Ski School NBS Rental NBS Retail Ridge Café

The Vale Niseko Vale Bar & Grill The Vale Onsen & Pool NISADE Real Estate The Vale Snowsports

NBS Kid’ s Club Inn Niseko Red Bell Café

LARRY ADLER Rent-a-Ski

Alpen Ridge Fresh Café

AYA Niseko Ginger Restaurant Powder Yoga/Conference Room iGATE IKEUCHI AYA niseko Niseko Real Estate AYA SPA AYA GYM GOSNOW Niseko Kid's Club Kiyoe Gallery Niseko Hokkaido Bank ATM

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NISS Hirafu

343

Snow Crystal

J - SEKKA

Holiday Niseko Green Farm Cafe

Hokkaido Mountain Experience

Explore Niseko Booking Centre

Rhythm Summit

HAVEN Niseko

Niseko Spa The Ski Project Wellness shop

Captain Tuk Tuk Kogetsu

343

Barunba BOMBAY SIZZLERS Cocoroya Hokkaido Travel Niseko Cultural School

4

MSK building Tamashii Bar Yosaku

Niseko Resort Service Momiji M Lodge

NISEKO SAKURA

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Ezo Seafoods NOASC NOASC Rental Niseko Realty Sales Outdoor Travel Japan

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Matthew Suites Momiji Lodge FUYUTSUKI Niseko Tempura Yukitei Niseko Penguin Mura

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Hibari Sanraku

North Point Ori

Panorama

Ave.

Zekkei

5

Glass House

Escarpment Estate

Snow Monkey Snow Monkey 2

Aspen

Yuki no Sansou Fumoto Konishi House

Poronupu Fo-Sho sansou

Gouka Lodge - Bondi

Hirafu area Name Phone Location Ski Resort Niseko Grand Hirafu 0136-22-0109 G1 Dining A-Bu-Cha 2 (Suiboku 1F) 0136-22-5620 D1(E2) AKARU 0136-23-2023 F2 amaru 0136-55-5993 G3 An Dining / Café & Bar 0136-22-5151 G2 Bang-Bang 0136-22-4292 E2 Bang2 0136-22-1480 E2 Barunba 0136-55-5615 A4(E3) Big Foot Lodge 090-3893-1241 F3 blo*blo bar 0136-22-1269 F1 BOMBAY SIZZLERS 0136-55-5272 A4(E3) Bouken 0136-22-3759 H1 NISEKO Boyo-so 76 EXPERIENCE0136-22-1274 G1 Burger Boss 0136-55-5633 G5 Coto Bar 0136-25-4438 B4 Crab Dining KANON 090-2695-4945 F3

0136-55-5956 A3(D3) A4(E3) 0136-21-7111 D2 0136-23-2661 D3 090-3117-1001 A4(E3) 0136-55-6293 A3(D2) 0136-23-0164 D1(E2) 0136-23-3939 G5 0136-55-8235 F3 0136-55-8235 F3 0136-23-2244 D4 0136-23-3371 F4 0136-23-3354 B3(D3) 0136-55-5934 C1 0136-21-4855 G5 0136-23-1432 C3 0136-23-2727 A5(D3) 090-6636-5265 C3 0136-23-2239 E1 0136-22-1123 E2/F2

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Youtei One

Hidamari

Edelwei Uncle

Yuzuki

Kuma Cabin

Whiskey Woods Tsubaki

Cocoa

Yasuragi

Miyabi

Tanoshii Tokoro

Forest Star Lo

Niseko Lodge

Yamabiko Koala Cottage

Hannah no Hana Odayaka

Midori Gustav's Hideaway

Tsukinoki The Clearwater

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Sugi House

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Hirafu Main Village

Kinoko

Cloud 9 Cisco Moon

Avalon

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Latitude42

Nupuri Cottage

Mojos

Arrow Wood

Tokubetsu

Green House

Yotei Cottage

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Konoha

Asobi Dokoro

Powder Haven

Horizon

Greystone

Yumebasho

KŌHŌ

Terrazze Niseko

Yukemur

Kado

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Akatsuki Chalet

Rin Sekka Ni

Gensei Kokage Yukisawa House Eliona

Waraku Sanso

Shinzen Sansou

Shiro Fukurou

Whiteroom Japan

Donguri

Ajisai

Aspect

Hakuchōzan

Yukoro

Hirafu House #7 Shibumi

Dongu Maroudo

Yamanchu

Seisei 1, 2

Snow Fox

Hangetsu

You B'youtei

Full Note Half Note Cafe/Bar

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Kazahana

Konnichiw a Ave. Grand papa

Koharuya

Hi-no Atarubasho

J-House Kasetsu

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Momiji-Zaka St.

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COTO BAR

Misosazai

Itoku

Hatsuyuki

Cecuko

Asuka

Ezo Domus

Ebisu tei Akazora

Hirafu Bar

Shirakaba Townhouses

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Powder Cottage

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Niseko Soan Kimamaya by ODIN The Barn

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Potato Lodge

Serendipity Hideaway

Shinsetsu

Yubokumin

Seizan 1, 2

Powder Room

Casi 67

STEAK ROSSO ROSSO

Kitanishi 3 Kitanishi 2

Yukon Apartments

Shin Shin

Adventure

Udelka

Shikaku

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Kabuki 1

Setsugen Kashi Lodge

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Neyuki Toshokan

Mukashi Mukashi

ODIN House

Boheme Millesime

The Owl House

Kabuki 2 Otsukisama

Kitsutsuki Snow Bird Studio

Temporary Police Box ; open from early Dec 2017 to late Mar 2018

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If...

Baw Baw Sanso

Jam Lodge

Jam House

Australia House NisekoAccomodation.com Wabi Sabi Niseko Oil Massage Niseko Physio

Australia House

Fujizushi

Senchou The Edge

SEKKA House

Taj Mahal PIZZAVAN UTTINO honestbee SPRINT Taxi Stand Niseko Property

at Home Niseko Niseko Property

Burton Zaka NISADE Sales Office

see left

SEKKA Kan

Downtown Lodge

Seico Mart

Odin Place

NBS Ski School

Explore Niseko Office

Hirafu-Intersection

Temporary Police Box

The Vale Niseko

Toshiro’ s Bar Enishi Niseko Pizza Arigato Massage J-Sekka Suites Mick's

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AYA Niseko

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Koko Mūsu Niseko Taproom The Alpinist Sushi Wakatake

Hirafu-Inters

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0136-23-0700 0136-23-2220 0136-21-2233 0136-21-2121 0136-23-2622 0136-22-0339 0136-21-2288 070-4123-7214 0136-22-6028 0136-25-4009 0136-21-7001 090-3117-8529 0136-55-8625 0136-55-8797 0136-21-6818 0136-21-7880 0136-23-1608 0136-23-3437 0136-55-5989 0136-22-3735

Icho House

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0136-22-6646 H1 080-8629-1181 G3 0136-55-5553 A3(D3) 0136-23-3444 H3 0136-23-1111 A4(E3) 090-2059-6701 A4(E3) 050-5316-9488 B3(E2) 0136-23-2265 D3 0136-21-7722 G5 080-1899-6006 B3(E3) B4 0136-21-3900 D1(E2) 0136-22-6638 E2 0136-21-5088 H4 0136-55-5919 B3(D2) 070-2005-1526 G3 0136-21-7111 A3(D2) 0136-22-1444 D4 0136-22-3388 A1 0136-21-2355 H5

Senchou Sessa Seven Star's Cafe Shiosai (Senchou 2) Shokusai Hirafu (Hotel Niseko Alpen) Slalom (Hotel Niseko Alpen) Snow Castle Steak Rosso Rosso Sushi Wakatake Sweets&Cafe (Hotel Niseko Alpen) Taj Mahal Tamashii Bar Tanta-an (Mt. Center) The Alpinist The Barn THE BUNKER The Edge The Slippery Slope The Wellness Shop Toshiro's Bar

D

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Tuk Tuk Vale Bar & Grill Wabi Sabi Wagyu BBQ Sei Wild Bill's Yamanchu Yo Japanese Kaiseki Dining Yosaku YUI YUKITEI NISEKO Yummy's Ski School, Activity Aaron Jamieson Photography Dog Paddle Explore Niseko Activity Centre, Ginto Village Explore Niseko Office FastFun.jp Good Sports GOSNOW(Gondola Snowsports) Grand Hirafu Snow School

080-3293-6028 A4(E3) 0136-21-5833 A3(D2) 0136-21-5115 B3(E3) 080-3293-4508 H3 0136-55-5774 F2 090-9528-4166 D4 0136-22-2278 B5 0136-55-8505 A4(E3) 0136-55-6071 C4 0136-55-6110 A4(E3) 0136-21-2239 E4 080-4044-9693 H5 0136-22-6617 B1 050-5309-6905 G5 050-5309-6905 C3 0136-21-4070 B3(D2) 0136-23-4560 G5 0136-23-2665 D2/G1 0136-22-0921 F1

NAC Adventure Park NAC Niseko Adventure Center NBS Kid s Club NBS Ski School (Alpen Ridge) NBS Ski School (Shiki Niseko) NBS Ski School (Snow Crystal) NBS Ski School (Uptown) Niseko Kid's Club Niseko Photography & Guiding NISS Hirafu NOASC (Futagoyama) NOASC (Momiji-zaka St.) Paint ball Field Niseko Powder Yoga Rising Sun Guides toyru Whiteroom Japan Rental, Tune-up Amuse Rental Boot Solutions

0136-23-2093 0136-23-2093 0136-21-5050 0136-21-5050 0136-21-5050 0136-21-5050 0136-21-5050

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Yu-kara Tozanken

Berg Create

The Setsumon Powderhound Lodge

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Yutaka Town House THE BUNKER

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Shinrin Sessa Wagyu BBQ Sei

Kisetsu

Snow Gum Lodge

Shiki 1, 2

Aster A, B

Pine Sap

Koyuki 1, 2 Lodge Mori Apartments Annabel Kita-no-kuni

KOKORO

Hirafu East Village

Convenience Store Body Care Hot Spring Day Care Center Information Center Travel Company Real Estate, Developers, Management

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Tanoshii

Woodpecker

Stay

Darwin

Tahoe Lodge

Ramat Niseko

M Group Heritage

Inuneco House

NISEKO INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

White Liner Reservation Center

343

Guzu Guzu

0136-23-0164 0136-22-4199 0136-21-7551 0136-55-8086 0136-55-5739 0136-21-7800

Ginrei Gokoro

Kumagorou Café Cowbell Seven Star’s Café Paint ball Field Niseko

Akari Curry Goya Albarta Lodge

E1 F1 A3(D2) C4 A3(D3) A3(D2) E1 E1 E2 A4(D3) F1 B3(E3) B3(E3)

Area Information

Explore Niseko Booking Centre 050-5309-6905 B3(E2) Niseko Promotion Board 0136-21-2551 C3 Sun Sports Land 0136-23-3220 C3 Welcome Center 0136-22-0109 F1 Travel Company -JP- : Japanese licence -AU- : Australian licence Aspara Tour -JP0136-23-3340 C1 Hokkaido Travel -JP0136-23-3327 A4(E3) Holiday Niseko 0136-21-6221 B3(D3) Japan Ski Experience 090-2058-3807 G3 Nippon Rent-A-Car (Grand Hirafu) 0136-23-0919 F1 Niseko Central -JP0136-23-3503 F2 Niseko Central Ski Valet 0136-23-3503 H2 Niseko Ground Service -JP- 0136-55-7007 F1 NisekoAccomodation.com 0136-21-2222 B3(E3) Outdoor Travel Japan -JP0136-21-2171 A4(E3) Peak Niseko Car Rentals 080-5588-7779 H5 Peak Niseko Car Rentals -office 080-5588-7779 H5 Ski Japan Travel -JP- -AU0136-22-4611 F3

Media, Web

RoomBoss

0136-21-6565

F2

0136-21-5454 0136-22-2734

G5 F1

0136-55-5555 011-261-8000

E1 E1 B3(E3) B3(E3)

Accommodation

AAC Niseko Absolute Niseko Adventure Ajisai (Hirafu House #5) Akagera (Main Village) Akagera (West Village) Akari Akatsuki Chalet

Ruhiel Yellow House

Kutchan Town, Route 5

H

NISEKO INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Yakoujyu Osteopathy & Acupuncture Other Event space（hirafu188） Ikeuchi System Service SPRINT Taxi Stand Temporary Police Box

Medical Facilities

5

NOASC

The White House Aaron Jamieson Photography

G

F3 F3 E2

Ruhiel

SANGA

Panorama Niseko (Scheduled Opening: Dec 2018)

Saint Moritz Bridge, Route 5

B3(E2)

Peak Niseko Car Rentals (Office)

Hirafu Yamada

MY ecolodge Ichimura

Zaka 0136-55-5756 Convenience Store, Groceries Gorilla Supermarket 0136-55-8235 Lawson 0136-23-1230 Seico Mart 0136-23-3271 Hot Spring Hirafu-tei 0136-23-2239 Hotel Niseko Alpen 0136-22-1105 The Vale Onsen & Pool 0136-21-5811 Yukoro 0136-23-0205 Body Care Arigato Massage 0136-23-2511 AYA SPA Hermosa Angel 1 0136 23-2004 Hermosa Angel 2 0136-22-0004 Hermosa Angel 3 0136-22-0004 Kimamaya 0136-23-2603 Niseko Foot 0136-22-1224 Niseko Oil Massage 0136-22-0399 Niseko Physio 0136-22-0399

Peak Niseko Car Rentals ST Gallery

Yamada Intersection

Duty Free Shop

Waza's World

Katana L'ocanda

International Currency Exchange

A3(D2) D2 C1 A3(D3) G3 A3(D2) F3 D1(E2) E3 F2 A4(E3) G1 D1(E2) E2 D1(E2) B3(D3) E1 F3 C3 A3(D2)

Tonttu Ezo Fuji

Good Sports Ski & Snowboard Rental

Hi'iragi-sanso

Osteria

BLISS LODGING

Midtown@Niseko

F

0136-21-4050 0136-21-6818 0136-23-1608 0136-23-2093 0136-21-5050 0136-21-5050 0136-21-5050 0136-23-0343 0136-23-1223 0136-55-8585 0136-22-2615 0136-21-6633

P 26

Powder-goya

Konayuki BLISS COTTAGE SAKURA

Burger Boss

Explore Niseko Activity Centre, Ginto Village

Cards Issued Overseas-compliant ATM

Stage Izumikyo Nisse

Log Village

Koropokkuru Ground

Whistler Lodge

Log House M&R

Etupirika

343

The Pavilions Niseko (Scheduled completion: Dec 2019) The Ginto Residences (Scheduled completion: Aug 2018) Ginto Village (Scheduled completion: Oct 2020)

Lift Ticket Counter Information Map Post

E

A3(D2) 0136-55-5695 D1(E2) 0136-55-5697 E2 0136-23-0008 A4(E3) 0136-22-5581 C1 0136-22-1105 F1 090-3524-5147 B3(E2) 0136-23-0483 E1

4

25

Nitai A, B

Rosti

Snowhorse

Yanagi House

Kiyoe Gallery Niseko Larry Adler Lupicia Boutique Mick's NAC Outdoor Shop NBS Retail (Alpen Ridge) NBS Retail (Shiki Niseko) NBS Retail (Uptown) Niseko 343 Niseko Boutique Niseko Cultural School Niseko Grand Hirafu Mt. Center Niseko Sports (Hirafu zaka) Odin Place Rhythm Japan Rhythm Summit Satudora nisekohirafu Store The North Face Gravity Niseko The Ski Project The Vale Snowsports

Hirafu East Village

The Niseko Company

J's Den

Lodge

Facilities

H2 A3(D2) A3(D2) F3 D1(E2) E3 A4(E3) D1(E2) A4(E3) D1(E2) A3(D2)

3

Tabi-no Kosaten

Luka

Hanazono Shuttle - via Upper Village

0136-22-0109 0136-21-4050 0136-21-5050 0136-21-5050 0136-21-5050 0136-23-0343 0136-22-6201 0136-21-6633 0136-23-1688 0136-23-0164 0136-21-7800

Tirol 1 Tirol 2

Izumikyo 1

Local Bus

Ski Resort Dining Resort Hotel Accommodation Ski School, Outdoor Activity Rental, Tune-up Shop, Indoor Activity

Mangetsu Niseko Villa

Ruby Chalet

Izumikyo 2

Niseko Cottage

Hanazono Shuttle - via Lower Village

Grand Hirafu Rental (Gondola Sta.) Larry Adler Rent-a-Ski NBS Rental (Alpen Ridge) NBS Rental (Shiki Niseko) NBS Rental (Uptown) Niseko 343 Niseko Resort Service Niseko Sports (Hirafu zaka) NOASC Rental Rhythm Japan The Vale Snowsports Shop, Indoor Activity AYA GYM Boot Solutions BURTON Cocoroya Gentemstick Showroom Heated Pool ( Niseko Hotel Alpen) honestbee Hotel Niseko Alpen Shop

Shirayuki Lodge Niseko Ramen Kazahana

Popcorn

Hana & Jo

Grand Shuttle - via East Village

odge

Ezorisu Asahi

Ezo Views

22 M

Alpine Central

Graubünden

Yukiuchi

Grand Shuttle - via Main Village

Tomotsune

Jurin Kumajiro

Izumikyo 3

Yukine

NISEKO UNITED Shuttle

iss

Yellow House

Mount Merry La Plagne

REN

Slow Life

Bus route, Bus stop

Kazane

Jindabyne

NAC Niseko Adventure Centre Indoor Climbing Wall NAC Outdoor Shop JoJo's

Cotton Grass

Kitakitsune

Taureau

Hirafu Lodge

Oak Ridge

Izumikyo Office

Fubuki 1, 2, 3

t. aS ak -Z

Rocky

TOYOTA Rental & Leasing SAPPORO

Sakae

Izumikyo 23 N

Hirafu Main Village

Yume no Tsuzuki Creek Side A, B

Ezo Yuki

Tancho Centre

Star Chalet

Main Lodge The Red Ski House

Yukikage Chamonix Niseko Ski Lodge

AAC Niseko Niseko Club Lodge

Lapis

Lavenne

Locomotion

Hirafu

6 Fons

Lucus

Tsubara Tsubara

Ummei

Island

Musashi Niseko Reise House

343

Kanon Crab Dining KANON

Kozue

Aries

Midori Cottage

Bamboo

3 C

n

ra ku

Sa

Tatami

Shika Genji

Arbor

Kamakura Apartments

Loft Niseko

t. aS ak -Z

2

Byakko

AN Dining Café

Lawson

Java House

Yummy's

uri Ave.

Niseko Chalet (Futagoyama lodge) The Freshwater

Sharome Niseko Business Support The Brick Niseko Photography & Guiding

Orion

Go

Elevation

Old Man Creek A, B

Tsuru 1, 2

Ski JapanTravel

Yukiyama Apartments Setsugetsu Terrace

Karamatsu

see left

Nise

Hirafu Gondola Station Grand Hirafu Ski / Snowboard Rental

Ishi Couloir

Niseko Landmark View

.

St ka Za a-

THE NORTH FACE GRAVITY NISEKO

Nichigo Apartment

Yume House

Momiji-Zaka St.

HA

Yukimi 1, 2

NBS Rental Niseko Management Service (NMS) NBS Retail Vacation Niseko Kamimura NBS Ski School Japan Ski Experience Gorilla Nabe amaru Gorilla Cafe & Deli Niseko Gourmet Gorilla Supermarket Niseko Boutique Muse Niseko

NISADE / Niseko Alpine Developments Hirafu Intersection

1

Nisek

Hirafu Station

West Village

Gondola Chalets Harro's Snowsports

ol

nd

Shiki Niseko

Mina Mina Mountainside Palace

Hirafu Intersection

Tokyu Sanso

Haku'un-so

TAIGA Projects

The Slippery Slope

t

HANAZ

Niseko Central Ski Valet

Lava Lounge Pizza RyuNabe Ryu Seafood

ak ay

HANAZON

HA

Hirafu Gondola Station

H

RoomBoss

Wild Bill's

Silver Birch

Ni’s

343

toyru

Kizuna JAM

Hanami Townhouse

N

Ni

Hirafu North

Fresh Powder Niseko

Kiseki

Hanazono

Niho

TELLUS NISEKO (Expected completion : Summer 2019)

Youtei Tracks Powder Tracks

1

NIS

Deep Tracks

Mountain Jam

Nozomi views

see above

Ave.

631

ol

H

Bouken Kazoku Bouken

1

NCS

Yama Shizen East Niseko Central

Log Kanon

u

HI

Hirafu-Zaka St.

.

St kaK a -Z

Sasayaki

East Village

t#

Lif

An Dining / Café & Bar

Yama Shizen West AKARU HTM

Kira Kira Hokkaido Tracks Koropokkuru

Hirafu 188

air yP ida

Ki Niseko

Koen A ve.

Kakashi

Hirafu Main Village

Mountain Center Shop Tanta-an GOSNOW(Gondola Snowsports)

Heated Pool

Hirafuzaka

Raku

7

f ra

Suiboku

Chalet Ivy Snow Castle

Serenity

Bang2

Absolute Niseko

.

St

J

5

Saint Moritz Bridge

i Pa

Alpen shop

Owashi Lodge

Boyo-so (in Ski area)

B

&

Mountain Center

Niseko Foot Yakoujyu Osteopathy & Acupuncture Nippon Rent-A-Car

Hirafuzaka

Niseko Park Hotel

ng Ki

Shokusai Hirafu Slalom Sweets & Café Kids Room

Sansui Niseko (Scheduled Opening: December 2019)

Bang-Bang

1A

t#

if rL

Hotel Niseko Alpen

blowhard blo*blo bar

The Maples (Scheduled Completion : December 2018)

nce Hotel Hirafu-tei Toshiro’ s Bar LOUNGE Hermosa Angel 3

Mountain Kiosk

Hotel Niseko Alpen

58

Niseko Ground Service Zaborin

7

Kutchan Station

Hanazono

Bus Stop to Airport, Sapporo

I

Works Investment Partners

tsumon

Guri Gura

Skye Niseko (Scheduled Opening: Autumn 2018)

Welcome Center

Hermosa Angel 2

H

Niseko Grand Hirafu

Hirafu Gondola

E

Mgt NO 0136-22-3006 070-4123-7214 NO 0136-55-8605 HD 0136-21-6615 NO 0136-55-5244 EK

F4 E2 B4 C4 B4 C2 H5 D4

Alpen Ridge Alpine Central Always Niseko Annabel Arbor Aries Arrow Wood Asahi Asanagi Asobi Dokoro Aspara Lodge Aspect Aspenwood Aster A・B Asuka Asupara Batake Atelier de Niseko Australia House Avalon AYA Niseko

SJ 0136-21-7111 A3(D2) NS 0136-22-0038 G4 NS 0136-55-8498 D1 NC H4 IZ F4 F3 0136-23-3898 B5 NC H3 HD 0136-55-8651 D4 C5 0136-22-3126 C1 NM 0136-55-5240 D4 HN D4 IZ H4 HN C4 C1 0136-22-5415 B1 B3(E3) HN C5 0136-23-1280 A3(D2)

Berg 0136-22-5115 E2 NC B4 Big Valley 1・2・3 BLISS COTTAGE SAKURA 0136-55-5248 H5 BLISS LODGING 0136-55-5248 H5 blowhard 0136-22-1269 F1 Bluebell B4 Boheme HD B4 Bouken Kazoku 0136-22-3759 H1 Boyo-so 0136-22-1274 G1 Byakko NC H2 Cabane du Taureau HD D4 Captain 0136-22-6028 A4(E3) Casi67 NB B4 Cecuko HN C3 Chalet Ivy 0136-22-1123 F2 Chalet Luma HD C1 Chalet MurasakiEXPERIENCE HM NISEKO 77 D2 Chamonix NO H3 Cisco Moon EK C4 Cloud 9 HD D4

Cowbell Create Creek Side A・B Darwin Deep Tracks Downtown Lodge Eco 260 Edelweiss Ekiraku Elevation Eliona Enju Etupirika Expedition Ezo Domus Ezo Fuji Ezo Views Ezo Yuki Ezo Yume Ezorisu Famille inn Ramin First Tracks Flow Fons Forest Estate Forest Star Lodge Fresh Powder Nise Fubuki 1,3 Fubuki 2 Full Circle Full Note Fumoto (Hirafu Ho Funky Monkey Fuu Genji Gensei Ginrei Ginsetsu Ginto Village Glass House Gondola Chalets Gouka Lodge – Bo Grand papa Green House Greystone Gustav's Hideawa Haku'un-so Hakuchōzan Hana & Jo Hangetsu Hangloose Hannah no Hana Hatsuyuki HAVEN Niseko Heiwa lodge Hi-no Atarubasho Hi'iragi-sanso Hibari Hidamari Hideaway Hirafu House#7 Hirafu188 Horizon Hotel Niseko Alpe Hurry Slowly A Icho House If...

Ikigai Ikki Inn Niseko Inuneco House Ise Ishi Couloir Island Itoku J-House J-Sekka Suites Jam House Jam Lodge Niseko Java House Jindabyne J's Den JUN Jurin Kabayama House Kabayama Townh Kado Kaizoku Kamakura Apartm Kanon Karamatsu Kasetsu Kashi Lodge Katana Kawasemi Kazahana Kazane Ki Niseko Kimamaya by ODI Kinoko Kira Kira Kiraku Kiseki Kisetsu Kisetsukan Kita Boshi Kita-no-kuni Kitadori Kitakitsune Kitanishi 2 Kitanishi 3 Kitsutsuki Kizuna Koala Cottage KŌHŌ Kokage KOKORO Konayuki (MomijiKonayuki（Stage I Konishi House

78 EXPERIENCE NISEKO

EXPERIENCE NISEKO 79

80 EXPERIENCE NISEKO