DQ Magazine Issue 7C

DIGITAL ISSUE 7C | 2023

SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE

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www.paleopetpure.com JOHANNESBURG | PRETORIA | CAPE TOWN | GARDEN ROUTE | DURBAN

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FOOD M PET

CHOOSE AWARD WINNING RAW PET FOOD

Dear readers, Welcome back to our wonderful Westie issue!

This month, we get to know this energetic, fiercely intelligent and personality-filled terrier and learn about the challenges involved in keeping these dogs their snow-white selves.

We chat about the value of enriching mealtimes for your canine companions and provide strategies to build this into your pups’ daily routines. We also give a couple of tasty Kong recipes to get your dog started on his enrichment journey.

We discuss the common orthopaedic issues of patella luxation and look at the role of physiotherapy in managing it.

To round up, we have our second trick in the series, an article on the health emergency of hyperthermia and a look at the biggest organ in the dog’s body, the skin.

We hope you enjoy this issue and look forward (with TOO much excitement) to our Christmas edition on the 15th of December.

Until then!

Lizzie and the DQ team xxx

Dr Lizzie Harrison | Editor

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Designer | Anne Royden-Turner

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DIGITAL ISSUE 7C | 2023

CONTENTS West Highland Terrier Energetic, intelligent and oh so loving!

Food for thought Enriching meal times

Basic tricks Trick 1: Lie down

Kong recipe Nutritious and delicious

Hyperthermia Understanding this potentially fatal condition

Understanding your dog Part 1: The skin

Luxating patella Understanding this common orthopaedic condition

Common neurological and orthopaedic conditions Part 5: Cranial cruciate ligament disease and rehabilitation

Q&A Your dog questions answered

Products we love

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BREED PROFILE

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BREED PROFILE

West Highland Terrier ENERGETIC, INTELLIGENT AND OH SO LOVING!

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BREED PROFILE

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he West Highland Terrier’s most distinctive trait has to be its colouration. You can have any shade you want, as long as it is bright white; with a highly pigmented nose, the darkest of eyes and a pair of elfin ears, you have one of the most easily recognised dogs in the dog kingdom.

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HISTORY It is widely recorded that the West Highland Terrier first rose to prominence thanks to the breed’s bright, uniform coat. However, trace the story further back, and the facts become much harder to find. Several theories pin the breed’s origins to the 16th and 17th centuries, pointing to the letters of King Hames I and the breeding practices of the Malcolm clan. Yet, others propose that the Westie was sparked by crossbreeding or natural variation in the Cairn and Scottish Terrier. No matter the preferred explanation, white terriers were well established in Scotland before Queen Victoria ascended to the British throne.

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As the 1800s progressed, three Scottish breeders independently embarked on the first selective breeding programmes. George Campbell, the 8th Duke of Argyll, Edward Malcolm, the 16th Laird of Poltalloch, and Dr. Flaxman all carefully developed white terriers, naming them the Roseneath, Poltalloch and Pittenweem, respectively. Each of these dogs benefitted from their greater visibility when out on the dark backdrop of the Scottish Highlands, and as the century progressed, the three groups were increasingly seen as a single, distinct breed.

When the 20th century arrived, the West Highland Terrier took three further leaps forward: the breed received its current name, the first breed club was established, and Kennel Club recognition was granted.

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THE BREED Early Westies passed their coat and vigorous sprint down the generations, but these pioneer dogs would certainly stand out in a modern show ring. Surviving photos show a developing breed with longer toplines, more voluminous tails and less assertively angled hocks than their modern successors. Today, the breed boasts one of the most recognisable outlines in the canine world. Key features of the silhouette include a straight back and deep chest set on short legs with strong and angular hindquarters. The picture is completed by a skyward-pointed tail, triangular ears and, of course, the bright white coat.

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Shining white brilliance defines the best-kept Westies out there, but such perfect results take more than magic to achieve. West Highland Terriers are a doublecoated breed, and most require hand stripping to perfect their hard, lustrous outer coat. Maintaining an ideal appearance also requires finger-and-thumb trimming, while backcombing, careful brushing and, of course, grooming chalk occupy the final hours before a run in the show ring. Even everyday pets need daily brushing and weekly grooming routines for the dogs to stay happy and healthy.

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BREED PROFILE

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HEALTH ISSUES Westies, despite being relatively hypoallergenic for owners, are frequent sufferers of atopic dermatitis. This life-long skin condition can affect the entire body and cause widespread itchiness.

Sometimes caused by pollen and dust allergies, dermatitis often leads a dog to scratch themselves excessively and create further skin damage. Moisturising skin products and anti-itch medication can be used in conjunction to reduce symptoms.

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More concerning but less common are hyperplasic dermatosis and malassezia dermatitis. Malassezia is a yeast infection which causes red, inflamed skin and commonly affects the dog’s ears. Left untreated, it can cause the skin to turn black and even result in deafness. Hyperplastic dermatosis is unique to the breed and presents with scaly skin, hair loss and a red-tinted coat. Both conditions are more manageable when detected early.

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BREED PROFILE

Craniomandibular Osteopathy, commonly called CMO and sometimes colloquially termed ‘Westie Jaw’, is another painful condition associated with the breed. Dogs afflicted by this hereditary disease suffer from excessive bony growth on their upper or lower jaw, often presenting between four and seven months of age. A tender, swollen jaw region commonly signifies the condition, while CMO also causes significant pain, difficulty eating and recurrent bouts of fever. Though

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the excessive growth will stop increasing once a dog has reached maturity, there is no known cure, and treatment focuses on reducing pain and inflammation. Thankfully, the condition can now be screened for in dams and sires before mating with them. Using a simple DNA test, it can now be ascertained whether a dog is genetically free of the condition, known as CMO-0, has a single copy of the mutation which causes the condition, CMO-1, or has two copies of the mutation, CMO-2.

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IS A WESTIE RIGHT FOR YOU? Given the care they need to feel their best, Westies can find happy homes in various situations. These dogs have energetic but adaptable spirits and can happily accompany owners for a jog or live with a lighter exercise regime. Their fearsome intellect, another admirable trait of the breed, does mean that they will

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require plenty of interaction to stay occupied. A bored Westie, like most dogs, will quickly make their own fun, often at the expense of the household furnishings. Early breeding and socialisation are also cited as essential for the best of the Westie’s friendly and outgoing personality to shine through over the course of their lives.

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BREED PROFILE

TAKE HOME MESSAGE Whether asserting their independence, charging over the hills, or curling up for some snuggle time, the West Highland Terrier has a love for life that could inspire anyone.

They are happy to stand out, be seen and show us all just how much fun there is to be had in this big wide world of ours.

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Food for thought

ENRICHING MEAL TIMES

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anine enrichment is a topic we've discussed many times before here. Quite simply, it is the addition of actions or items to your dog's environment to benefit their physical and psychological health, ultimately improving their quality of life.

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There are six types of enrichment for dogs, which include: 1. Social enrichment – Dogs are social animals, and this form of enrichment provides opportunities for dogs to spend time with other dogs, animals and people, which helps build self-confidence and trust.

2. Cognitive enrichment – This form focuses on providing opportunities for problem-solving and thinking through challenges.

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3. Physical or environmental enrichment – This can involve adding things to your dog's everyday environment to make it more interesting.

4. Feeding enrichment – This taps into dogs' natural scavenging and foraging behaviours.

Putting food anywhere but in the food bowl means the dog can be happily engaged in working for their food.

5. Toy enrichment – This form involves providing toys or games where dogs need to use their paws or mouths to get a reward, such as food.

6. Sensory enrichment – Anything that stimulates the dog's five senses of sight, touch, taste, sound and, of course, the big one, smell.

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FEEDING ENRICHMENT In this article, we will focus on feeding enrichment and consider why this is good for our dogs; we will also look at some ideas of how we can make it part of their daily lives. As we will see, what is so good about enriching meal times is that through just this, we can tap into all six types of enrichment and, therefore, enhance our dogs' daily lives in many ways.

We know that if dogs were free-ranging, they would spend their days scavenging, foraging and

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finding food. Indeed, survival in these conditions would require a great deal of physical activity and problem-solving ability. This is, of course, in direct contrast to the lives of our domesticated dogs.

If we simply put food in a bowl for our dogs, it will be eaten in 30 seconds, creating very little enjoyment for them. As dogs don't have much control over their day-to-day lives in a busy household, we can add something more meaningful and rewarding by appealing to their innate tendencies of scavenging and foraging.

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BENEFITS OF ENRICHMENT FEEDING • Slow down feeding times • Create a sense of achievement when food is found • Encourage natural foraging behaviour • Be useful for training • Burn more calories • Prevent boredom and thereby reduce the risk of destructive behaviour • Aid in managing separation anxiety • Stimulate and assist with brain development • Slow the onset of dementia in dogs • Build confidence

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MAKING MEAL TIMES MORE FUN CHEWING Dogs love to chew as it is a natural instinctive behaviour for them. Chewing can also act as a stress reliever and help to prevent boredom when you need to do household tasks. Antler dog chews, yak milk dog chews, etc, will keep your dog busy for quite some time.

FORAGING • Scatter feeding – this is easier to do with dry food and is a great way to make a meal last longer. Scatter the food in as many areas as possible for your dog to find.

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are available online. Dogs love to snuffle out food, which gets buried into the large felt strips that make up these mats. If you want to make your own, simply buy a rubber mat with holes, cut a fleece blanket into strips, thread it through adjacent or diagonal holes, and tie in a knot.

• Hiding food – Hide treats or food. Make the 'hidden treasures' easy to find at first by letting your dog see you hide them to build confidence. Over time, you can then progress to more difficult hiding places and hide the food when your dog is not in the room. You could also hide food/treats in a ball pit, a box of toys, upturned flower pots, etc.

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PROBLEM-SOLVING Food puzzle toys such as Kong toys, treat balls, and puzzle feeders can be challenging ways for your dog to work for their food. The dogs'dogs' usual diet can be packed easily into these toys.

These will keep your dog busy for considerably longer than a food bowl. You can also make the challenge tougher by filling up the feeding toy and freezing it. Just remember to place a straw through the food before freezing to make a hole so your dog can't choke when eating it.

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A NOTE FOR OLDER DOGS For dogs with signs of canine cognitive dysfunction (otherwise called doggy dementia), include enrichment challenges, but try not to make them too difficult.

Food toys for young puppies are perfect for older dogs, too, and there are also specially designed Kongs for older dogs.

LICKING Licking is extremely relaxing for a dog. Wet food, low-fat cream cheese, or peanut butter can all be spread on a lick mat and can be a helpful calming aid if there are any situations which the dog finds stressful.

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PRINCIPLES Enrichment should be challenging but not frustrating for your dog, so make sure you start off nice and easy and gradually increase the level of difficulty over time. Help your dog be successful in the challenges and build from there.

Finally, whilst there is no right or wrong way to use enrichment feeding, it is recommended to use your dog's daily food allowance rather than giving lots of extra treats in addition to his normal ration. This is to avoid unwanted consequences such as weight gain.

For example, try getting rid of the food bowl for just one meal; the goal is to increase the amount of time it takes them to eat their food, encouraging mental and physical activity.

FINAL THOUGHTS Overall, have fun! Our canine companions are super intelligent animals, and providing a variety of ways of feeding can give crucial mental stimulation for them and be a real boost to their quality of life.

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DOG TRAINING

BASIC TRICKS TRICK 1: LIE DOWN

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DOG TRAINING

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eaching your dog to lie down is a basic and useful command.

Here's a step-by-step guide on how to teach your dog to lie down: 1. Choose a quiet environment: Start the training in a quiet and distraction-free environment. This will help your dog focus on the training without being overly stimulated.

2. Have treats ready: Use small, tasty treats that your dog loves. Having treats readily available will motivate your dog during the training session.

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3. Get Your dog's attention: Begin by getting your dog's attention.

You can use a simple 'sit' command (see our previous issue) or use a treat to lure them into a sitting position.

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DOG TRAINING

4. Use the 'down' command: Hold a treat close to your dog's nose and slowly lower it straight down towards the ground. As your dog follows the treat with their nose, say the command 'down' in a clear and calm voice.

5. Guide your dog: Continue moving the treat along the ground, keeping it close to your dog's body. This will encourage them to follow the treat and lower their body into a lying position.

7. Repeat the process: Repeat the 'down' command and the action several times in a row, with short breaks in between. Consistency is key in dog training.

8. Gradually reduce treats: Once your dog understands the command, gradually reduce the frequency of treats, i.e., only use them for the best 'lie downs'. It is important to continue using some treats to ensure your dog still offers the behaviour when asked.

6. Reward and reinforce: As soon as your dog lies down, praise them immediately and give them the treat. Positive reinforcement helps your dog associate the action with a reward.

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DOG TRAINING

9. Practice in different locations: Practice the 'down' command in various locations and situations to generalise the behaviour. This helps your dog understand that the command applies in different contexts.

10. Be patient and positive: Keep training sessions short and positive. If your dog seems confused or frustrated, go back to simpler steps and gradually progress.

Patience and positive reinforcement are essential for effective training.

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Top tips for success • Use a calm and encouraging voice.

• Avoid using any force or punishment or even raising your voice; positive reinforcement is far more effective.

• Practice regularly, but keep sessions short to maintain your dog's interest and focus.

• Make training a fun and positive experience for your dog.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE Remember that every dog learns at their own pace. If you encounter difficulties or your dog seems confused, consider seeking guidance from a professional dog trainer for personalised assistance.

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DOG NUTRITION

KONG RECIPE NUTRITIOUS AND DELICIOUS

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DOG NUTRITION

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nteractive food dispensing toys like the Kong can be filled with tasty treats and tempting ingredients to provide enrichment, as described in our earlier article.

When choosing an interactive toy make sure it is of an appropriate size for your dog and if you have a very powerful chewer, make sure that the product is robust enough to withstand the forces that are going to be put upon it.

The design of a Kong is ideal for filling with ingredients as it is very strong, easily cleaned, freezer friendly, comes in a variety of sizes and crucially has a hole at both ends.

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NOTE: Some copies of the Kong only have one large hole through which to add fillings. These copies are extremely dangerous as they cause strong suction on the mouth and tongue, which can cause injury and can result in choking.

For raw feeders, a lamb or beef trachea is a perfect hollow tube to stuff with tasty treats and can be placed in the freezer for later use if needed.

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To further add interest to the feeding, layer the ingredients and experiment with different textures from crunchy fish skin cubes to soft blueberries. You can also hide the food dispenser in the garden to encourage your dog to follow the scent and claim their ‘prize’.

All of these elements really add to the overall enrichment experience.

Added to raw, kibble or cooked meat you could include ingredients such as pumpkin, sweet potato, pear, banana, natural goat’s yoghurt, bone broth, pumpkin seeds, papaya, quinoa or some of their favourite healthy treats.

Here are a couple of example recipes you can try with your Kong:

If your dog is a little on the heavier side, then taking some of their daily food ration and placing it into the Kong maybe with a few fresh steamed vegetables can keep them occupied for longer and give them a bit of a work out at the same time.

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DOG NUTRITION

RECIPE 1: SPRATS GALORE INGREDIENTS • Sprats (dried or fresh) • Coconut oil • Chia seeds • Cherry tomatoes • Blueberries • Green beans DIRECTIONS Chop up the ingredients and mix together to incorporate them all as evenly as possible. Squish them into the Kong and add a few whole sprats poking out of the end for added stimulation.

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THE RAW ONE INGREDIENTS • Grated carrot and courgette • Raw meal • Small cherry tomato, chopped DIRECTIONS Stir the courgetti, carrot and tomato into the raw meat and then spoon into the Kong until it is full. You can serve this Kong fresh or frozen.

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D O G H E A LT H

HYPERTHERMIA UNDERSTANDING THIS POTENTIALLY FATAL CONDITION

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yperthermia, otherwise termed heatstroke, occurs when your dog’s temperature becomes above normal.

CAUSES Hyperthermia usually occurs because the dog has been left in a hot environment, such as a car, conservatory or area with no shade. It can also happen when dogs are walked or exercised on hot days.

Medical reasons a dog might overheat include poisoning, meningitis or viruses.

Some breeds are more prone to heatstroke than others. The most susceptible breeds tend to be the brachycephalic or flat-faced breeds, as they have trouble keeping cool due to the lack of turbinate bones in the nasal passages, which act as a cooling system in most dogs.

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SYMPTOMS Symptoms of hyperthermia include: • Breathing distress • Drooling • Feeling hot to the touch • Having a rapid heart rate • Rapid panting • Confusion

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• Vomiting • Staggering • Glassy eyes • Seizures • Red gums • Fearful expression

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TREATMENT Always take a dog with possible heatstroke to the vet, as the condition can prove fatal.

In terms of immediate first aid, you need to move the dog away from the heat and into a shaded area. Then, if you can lay the dog on a wet towel and spray water on them, this will help.

Notably, the water must be cool and not freezing cold. You can also offer the dog small amounts of water to drink. These measures can help while waiting for the vet or transport to the vet.

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IMPORTANT Never cold plunge a hyperthermic dog, as this can cause them to go into ‘shock’ and even prove fatal.

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UNDERSTANDING YOUR DOG PART 1: THE SKIN

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D O G H E A LT H

T

he skin is the largest organ in the body but often the most overlooked. It comprises two major layers: the epidermis and the dermis.

The dermis and epidermis work together to maintain the integrity and function of the skin.

The epidermis acts as a protective barrier, while the dermis provides structural support and facilitates various physiological processes. Skin conditions, including rashes and infections, can affect both layers and may require veterinary attention for proper diagnosis and treatment.

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THE EPIDERMIS The epidermis is mostly made up of cells called keratinocytes. These cells start their lives on the innermost part of the epidermis, and as they mature, they grow outwards towards the outermost layer, flattening and drying as they go to form a hard surface layer. This whole process takes between three and six weeks, depending on the part of the body and the thickness of the skin in that particular area. The primary role of keratinocytes is to prevent harmful substances from getting into the body, so these cells are held together with tight connections. These connections stop bacteria and water from getting in and prevent too much water from getting out.

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Other cells in the skin include the following: • Melanocytes: These are the cells responsible for producing pigment. They are the reason some dogs have darker skin than others and why some dogs have dark patches.

• Langerhans cells: These spider-shaped cells of the immune system act to gather information on intruders and signal the attack.

THE DERMIS The dermis is the second layer of skin beneath the epidermis. It plays a crucial role in providing support, nourishment, and resilience to the skin.

Some key components of the dermis include: • Connective tissue: The dermis primarily comprises connective tissues, including collagen and elastic fibres. Collagen provides strength and structure, while elastic fibres contribute to the skin's elasticity.

• Blood vessels: The dermis is richly supplied with blood vessels that deliver oxygen and nutrients to the skin cells. These vessels also play a role in regulating body temperature.

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• Nerve endings: The dermis contains sensory nerve endings that transmit information about touch, pressure, pain, and temperature. These nerve endings are essential for the dog's ability to sense and respond to its environment.

• Hair follicles: Hair follicles, which extend from the epidermis into the dermis, are responsible for hair growth. The dermal papilla at the base of the follicle is connected to blood vessels, supplying nutrients necessary for hair growth.

• Sebaceous glands: Sebaceous glands are present in the dermis and produce sebum, an oily substance that helps moisturise and protect the skin and hair.

• Sweat glands: Dogs have fewer sweat glands than humans, and most of them are located in the paw pads. Sweating is not a primary means of temperature regulation in dogs; instead, they primarily regulate body temperature through panting.

• Immune cells: The dermis houses immune cells that play a role in defending the body against infections and foreign substances.

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SYMPTOMS OF SKIN CONDITIONS Skin has only a limited number of ways that it can show symptoms. After all, there aren't many cells present, and they all react in a certain way.

Symptoms of skin problems include: • Redness • Pimples • Rashes • Thickened skin • Itchiness • Hair loss

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REDNESS When skin goes red, it is usually because the blood vessels in the area open wide (called dilating) and let more blood into the area. They do this in response to messenger signals from cells, such as the chemical IL-1.

Messenger signals get released in response to messages coming from the outside (such as from the Langerhans cells recognising bacteria) or messages going outwards (such as pain signals from the brain). IL-1 is picked up by cells and starts a chain reaction, resulting in the dilating of the blood vessels and the rushing of blood to the area to prepare for the threat.

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PIMPLES The classic pimple contains a central pore filled with white pus, surrounded by a raised red area. The red area is caused by the blood vessels around the infected pore dilating to allow more blood into the area, which brings with it healing proteins and cells. The pus in the pimple is actually all the dead white blood cells that have been busy fighting the infection.

RASHES Most rashes are red for the reasons outlined above, i.e. the body recognises an issue and sends more blood to the area. Many things, including allergies, irritation, parasites, infections and food sensitivities can cause rashes.

THICKENED SKIN Skin becomes thicker for one of two main reasons. Either the body is producing too many new skin cells (the body recognises a higher turnover of cells secondary to inflammation, so it produces new cells at a faster rate), or because the dead skin cells are not falling away from the body correctly (because they are not being 'programmed' properly, and don't die at the right time).

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ITCHINESS Itchiness (properly called 'pruritis') is a very common symptom of skin diseases. In the case of allergic reactions, three major steps are involved in 'feeling' an itch. First, immune cells that are on the lookout for bacteria and foreign bodies recognise the allergen and release a messenger signal. This messenger signal starts a chain reaction, which triggers nerves to transfer messages to the brain. The brain then tells the dog to scratch the itch. The problem with this is that scratching damages the skin, making it more prone to feeling itchy. This is referred to as the 'itch-scratch' cycle.

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HAIR LOSS Hair loss, or alopecia, can occur for a number of different reasons: 1. Because an animal is itchy, they may break their hairs early and lose more than they usually would due to the scratching.

2. The hair growth-loss cycle can become disrupted because the hair follicle becomes inflamed, infected or affected by parasites.

3. Hormonal changes and stress can also halt the cycle, causing hair loss.

DISEASES OF THE SKIN The most common diseases affecting the skin include the following: ALLERGIES Whilst 1 in 10 allergic dogs react to their food, most allergic dogs are actually allergic to something in their environment. This is referred to as 'atopy' or 'atopic dermatitis'. For these dogs, allergens trigger the immune cells in the skin, causing an itch response. The skin often appears red and inflamed.

IRRITATIONS Dogs can develop contact dermatitis from coming into contact with irritating substances such as certain plants and chemicals.

LICE AND FLEAS Lice and fleas are major tormenters of our pets. Lice and flees hide amongst the hairs and cause serious itching, which may allow infection to enter the skin.

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MANGE Mange is caused by mites, and there are different types including Sarcoptic mange (scabies) and demodectic mange. Symptoms may include hair loss, redness, scabs and intense itching.

HOT SPOTS Hot spots (otherwise termed ‘acute moist dermatitis’) are localised areas of inflamed, infected skin that are commonly intensely itchy.

They can develop quickly and are commonly seen in dogs that repetitively lick, chew or scratch a specific area.

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YEAST DERMATITIS Yeast dermatitis can occur in areas where there is a warm and moist environment, such as in skin folds. It often causes red, itchy and odorous skin.

BACTERIAL INFECTIONS Bacterial infections commonly result from breaks in the skin, often caused by injury, scratching or chewing. Symptoms may include redness, pustules and crusting.

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RINGWORM Despite its misleading name, ringworm is actually a fungal infection, not a worm issue.

It tends to cause circular, raised lesions with a loss of hair in the affected areas.

PYODERMA Pyoderma is an infection of the skin. It can occur in several layers, right out in the superficial skin layers or deeper down.

Pyoderma is highly itchy, and there is usually evidence of pimples or a rash. Pyoderma is unusual except for in immune-compromised individuals or individuals with injuries or damage to the skin. This is because the skin usually fends off infection pretty well thanks to the tight junctions and the immune cells living in the upper layers, so infection is more common in young pets, older pets with a disease, or pets with diseases of the skin that mean it's not functioning properly.

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HORMONAL ISSUES Conditions like hypothyroidism or Cushing’s disease can affect a dog’s skin or coat, leading to issues like hair loss and changes in skin pigmentation.

FINAL THOUGHTS If you notice any changes in your dog’s skin, such as redness, itching, hair loss or sores, you must consult with your vet.

Proper diagnosis is essential for effective treatment, which may include medications, dietary changes, topical treatments or other interventions, depending on the specific condition.

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LUXATING PATELLA UNDERSTANDING THIS COMMON ORTHOPAEDIC CONDITION

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uxating patellas are one of the most common orthopaedic conditions diagnosed in dogs.

The condition primarily affects small dogs like Chihuahuas, Yorkies, and Jack Russells, but it can also affect larger breeds like the German Shepherd, Rottweiler and Labrador.

SYMPTOMS OF A LUXATING PATELLA Some dogs may not show any clinical signs, but symptoms can include: • Intermittent lameness of variable severity • Hopping or skipping, which quickly returns to normal • Clicking • Stiffness

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ANATOMY OF THE CANINE KNEE

FEMUR PATELLA MEDIAL COLLATERAL LIGAMENT

PATELLAR LIGAMENT

MEDIAL MENISCUS

LATERAL MENISCUS

TIBIA

FIBULA

PATELLA LUXATION The patella, more commonly called the kneecap, sits underneath a ligament called the patellar ligament. This ligament attaches the large quadricep muscles (the thigh muscles) to a point on the front of the tibia (shin bone).

When the thigh muscles contract, the force is transmitted through the patellar ligament, pulling on the tibia. This results in the extension or straightening of the knee. The patella slides up and down in its groove (trochlear groove) and helps keep the patellar ligament in place during this movement.

In some dogs, especially ones that are bowlegged, the patella may luxate, i.e. move out of alignment, because the point of attachment of the patellar ligament is not in the centre of the tibia. In these cases, it is almost always

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LATERAL COLLATERAL LIGAMENT

located too far toward the middle of the body or the inside of the leg. In these cases, as the quadriceps contract, the force applied to the patella pulls it to the inside of the knee.

After several months or years of this abnormal movement, the inner side of the groove in the femur may wear down. Once this happens, the patella is then free to dislocate or slide toward the inside of the knee at any time.

This type of luxation is referred to as a medial luxating patella. Many toy and small breed dogs, including Maltese, Chihuahua, French Poodle, and Bichon Frise, have a genetic predisposition for a medial luxating patella.

A laterally luxating patella (i.e. a patella that luxates to the outside of the dog's leg) occurs less frequently. It is more common in medium or largebreed dogs, often in tandem with hip dysplasia.

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D O G H E A LT H LUXATING PATELLA (DISLOCATING KNEE CAP)

PATELLA

PATELLA LIGAMENT

TIBIA

In all dogs affected by luxating patellas, one or both kneecaps may luxate, sometimes to different degrees. Approximately 50% of affected dogs have both knees involved.

As patellar luxation progresses, the patella dislocates more easily and frequently — persistently rubbing on the knee joint cartilage and leading to arthritis. The strain from the patella dislocating can also predispose dogs to other orthopaedic knee conditions, such as cranial cruciate ligament rupture.

It is estimated that at least 15-20% of all dogs diagnosed with luxating patella will eventually rupture their cranial cruciate ligament due to the stress on the area.

CAUSES OF PATELLA LUXATION Patella luxation can occur due to the conformation of the dog, which has a strong genetic component.

However, it can also arise due to trauma to the area.

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FEMUR

LATERAL COLLATERAL LIGAMENT LATERAL MENISCUS

FIBULA

There are four grades of patellar luxation, and a higher grade means that the condition is more severe.

Grade 1: Occasional lifting of the affected leg is noticed in a hopping motion, but the issue corrects itself rapidly. Equally, the patella can be manipulated out of the groove but will return spontaneously.

Grade 2: More lifting of the leg may be noticed, and the patella moves out of the groove more.

However, the patella can still be replaced by manipulation.

Grade 3: More permanent dislocation is seen as the patella is out of the trochlear groove most of the time. It can be replaced easily but will slide out again quickly.

Grade 4: Permanent luxation occurs, and it proves impossible to return the patella to the trochlear groove.

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D O G H E A LT H

DIAGNOSIS Your vet will provide a full examination and may be able to determine by palpation how much the patella moves, and then it can be graded as described above. However, X-Rays under sedation or full general anaesthetic may be required to assess the stifle joint more closely and evaluate the bony conformation.

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TREATMENT Not all dogs diagnosed with luxating patella require surgery. Some with low-grade issues are managed conservatively. Conservative management includes: • Joint supplements • Pain medication • Weight control • Hydrotherapy to encourage normal weight bearing, help build muscle strength and support the surrounding stifle structures.

• Massage therapy to help address any muscular tension, areas of overcompensation or muscle splitting and improve overall comfort levels.

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D O G H E A LT H

For those dogs that require surgery (generally those with higher grade luxations), there are a variety of procedures available. While they may be used alone, they are more commonly used in combination. These techniques include: • Deepening of the trochlear groove in the femur (called 'sulcoplasty') • Moving the attachment point of the patella ligament on the tibia (called 'tibial tubercle transposition') • Releasing the tight fascia around the patella • Tightening any redundant fascia around the patella • In exceptional cases, corrective femoral or tibial osteotomies (cuts into the bone) may be required to realign the limb.

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FINAL THOUGHTS Luxating patella is a common orthopaedic issue in dogs that can significantly impact their quality of life. Understanding the different types of luxation is crucial for proper diagnosis and the development of an effective treatment plan. If you suspect your dog may have a luxating patella, it is essential to consult with a veterinarian promptly to explore the most appropriate course of action for your furry friend's health and well being.

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COMMON NEUROLOGICAL AND ORTHOPAEDIC CONDITIONS - CAN REHABILITATION HELP?

CRANIAL CRUCIATE LIGAMENT DISEASE AND REHABILITATION Text | Bianca Rootman In the next part of our series, we will be exploring some common orthopaedic conditions and how physiotherapy and rehabilitation can help. Many guardians, and veterinary professionals, are not aware of the benefits that physiotherapy can provide when our companions are struggling with these ailments.

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Femur

Anterior cruciate ligament Posterior cruciate ligament

Tibia

Fibula

Cranial cruciate ligament disease (CCLD) is the most common cause of lameness in the dog. The cranial cruciate ligament is found in the knee (referred to as the stifle) and lies between the femur (thigh bone) and tibia (shin bone) along with its partner the caudal crucial ligament. Together, these ligaments form a cross (Afr = kruis ligament) and their function is to stabilise the two bones in relation to each other.

Every time your companion steps on a back leg, the shin bone has a tendency to thrust forward. The CCL holds the tibia in place and prevents the femur from ‘slipping off the back’ of the tibia. Damage to the CCL can be partial or a total rupture. Both will present with a degree of lameness. Most companions with a complete tear of the CCL will be non-weight bearing (or three-legged) lame. The damage can occur over time as a result of wear-and-tear/ degeneration of the ligament or it can occur suddenly usually after your companion has jumped off a couch or chased a ball.

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Treatment of CCLD is usually surgical. There are a number of surgical options, including: 1. EXTRACAPSULAR SURGERY (surgeons do not open the joint) which is often called ‘figure of 8’ technique or lateral stabilisation of the knee. The Tightrope ™ procedure is also available in South Africa. These options assist with stabilising the stifle to create fibrous tissue or a scar around the joint. This fibrous tissue creates a type of biological knee-guard. It can take 6 - 8 weeks for this to occur provided conditions are good for this process to occur. This means no running, jumping or playing while the body heals.

Anchor Point 1

Anchor Point 2 Lateral stabilisation lateral view

Tightrope ™ procedure

2. INTRACAPSULAR SURGERY (surgeons enter the joint). In this procedure the CCL is recreated using the dog’s own tissue or a synthetic cord. This process is not as common as it was a decade ago.

3. CREATING ALTERED BIOMECHANICS of the joint to prevent the slipping of the femur. The most common procedures performed in South Africa are the TPLO (tibial plateau levelling osteotomy) and the TTA (tibial tuberosity advancement).

Both of these procedures require that bone is cut (surgical fracture) and plates and screws hold the bone in its new position. Management of your companion in the first 6 weeks following surgery is critical for the success of this surgery. No running, jumping or playing is allowed during this period. Leash walks are the only suitable exercise form during this time.

X-Ray post tibial tuberosity advancement surgery 52

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In some companions, a conservative approach is a consideration. This is often advised for companions who are under 15kg of body weight, with partial tears. Older companions that are an anaesthetic risk or have concomitant metabolic disease may also fall into this category. For the first six weeks, no running, jumping or playing is allowed. A custom stifle brace can stabilise the joint and assist healing. Prolotherapy may also be an option.

Regardless of the chosen route of repair, a physical rehabilitation practitioner can help with advice on how to manage your companion. We are also qualified to perform physical rehabilitation to enhance the recovery of any surgical procedure and ensure success. There is always hope for cruciate ligament injuries and surgeries!

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD 154 President Brand Str, Rynfield, Benoni Contact: 083 230 2188 Email: animalhealths@gmail.com ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST 218 Mark St, Grootfontein County Estates, Pretoria East, Grootfontein Country Estates Contact: 074 251 4410 Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com

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YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Do dog auctions exist and are these good places to find well-bred dogs?

Yes, dog auctions exist, but they have been a subject of controversy and concern within the animal welfare community for some time. In dog auctions, breeders or sellers may present dogs for sale to buyers, often with the intention of selling them to pet stores, other breeders, or individuals. These auctions can involve various breeds and are sometimes associated with the sale of puppies from commercial breeding facilities, also known as puppy mills.

The concept of dog auctions has raised ethical and welfare issues due to the potential for the mistreatment of animals, lack of proper care, and the contribution to overbreeding. Puppy mills, in particular, are known for substandard breeding practices that prioritise profit over the well-being of the animals.

Animal welfare advocates argue that reputable breeders should prioritise responsible breeding practices, proper healthcare, and humane treatment of animals rather than participating in auctions where

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dogs may be treated as commodities rather than living beings with individual needs.

Several states and countries have implemented regulations to address concerns related to puppy mills and commercial breeding facilities, and some have restrictions or bans on the sale of dogs in pet stores. Animal welfare organisations also work to raise awareness about responsible pet ownership and the potential issues associated with purchasing dogs from auctions or sources with questionable breeding practices.

If you are considering getting a dog, it is recommended to adopt from reputable shelters, rescue organisations, or responsible breeders who prioritise the health and well-being of the animals.

Before acquiring a dog: • Research the source thoroughly.

• Ask questions about the breeding practices.

• Ensure that the welfare of the animals is a priority.

To stop the trade of animals as commodities, we all must avoid supporting unethical breeders by buying their dogs.

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Q&A

At what age should you start to socialise your dog?

The optimal age for socialising a dog with other dogs begins during the critical period of socialisation, which is typically between three and 14 weeks of age. During this time, puppies are more receptive to new experiences, and positive interactions can have a lasting impact on their behaviour. However, it's important to note that socialisation should be an ongoing process throughout a dog's life and that dogs must have had their required vaccines to socialise safely.

Here are some general guidelines for socialising dogs with other dogs at different stages of their lives: 1. Puppyhood (3-14 weeks): This is a crucial period for socialisation. Puppies can start meeting and interacting with other dogs in a safe and controlled environment during this time. Puppy socialisation classes, where puppies of similar ages play together under supervision, can be beneficial.

2. Adolescence (3-6 months): As puppies enter adolescence, they may go through a period of increased independence and curiosity.

Continue socialising them with other dogs, but be aware of any behavioural changes. Positive experiences during this stage can help shape a welladjusted adult dog.

2. Gradual introductions: Introduce dogs to new dogs one at a time in a controlled environment. Allow them to sniff and observe each other before allowing closer interaction.

Ideally, you don't want to do these interactions on either dog's home territory; it is best to choose somewhere neutral to begin with.

3. Watch for signs of discomfort: Pay close attention to your dog's body language. If your dog shows signs of fear, anxiety, or discomfort, give them space and consider consulting with a professional trainer for your next socialisation attempt.

4. Varied environments: Expose your dog to various environments, people, and dogs to promote adaptability.

5. Positive reinforcement: Use positive reinforcement techniques to reward calm and appropriate behaviour during interactions with other dogs.

Remember that every dog is an individual, and their comfort levels with other dogs may vary. Some dogs are naturally more social, while others may be more reserved. Always prioritise your dog's well-being, and if you have concerns about their behaviour or socialisation, consult a professional dog trainer or behaviourist for guidance.

3. Adulthood (6 months and older): Socialisation should continue throughout a dog's life.

Adult dogs can still benefit from positive interactions with other dogs, but it's important to be mindful of their individual temperament and behaviour. Some adult dogs may need more gradual introductions or may not enjoy the company of other dogs as much as they did when they were younger.

TIPS FOR DOG SOCIALISATION: 1. Positive experiences: Ensure that early interactions with other dogs are positive and supervised. Use treats and praise to reinforce good behaviour.

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Tripe can be used as a basis for a ketogenic diet for dogs with cancer or epilepsy where one should feed low

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to no carbohydrate, moderate protein and high fat. Tripe can also entice dogs who may not feel all that well and are reticent to eat.

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Products can be purchased online at www.paleopetpure.com and delivered to your door or bought at selected retailers.

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