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HOWLER T r o o p

owler is pleased to showcase in our November e-magazine the legacy of Latin American art. The Cover Story provides historical insight into overlapping intercultural influences in the region, setting the stage for our special focus on four artists. We begin with a profile of Mexican-born Ulises Rivera, whose contemporary street art continues transforming many urban landscapes in Costa Rica, where he was raised and currently lives. The iconic Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo are featured in our Arts Culture Entertainment (ACE) section, along with Chavela Vargas, who was born in Costa Rica but clung fiercely to the Mexican artistic and cultural identity she adopted at an early age. This monthâ€™s featured contributor is the exceptionally versatile Adriana Zerpa, whose own creative talents as Howlerâ€™s Art Director are apparent in all the magazine pages of every issue she designs. In the November e-magazine, she is also a contributing writer, bringing you both the Cover Story and the Artist Spotlight on Chavela Vargas. Adriana Zerpa. Graphic Art designer, creative writer, originally from Venezuela, is the owner of Whynot? Online Print Store. Actually part of the Howler team as Art director. email indikocreativo@gmail.com, visitwhynot.ask4print@gmail.com

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NOV 2020 Vol. 27 No. 9 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam C r e at i v e & a r t D i r e c t o r Adriana C. Zerpa marketing director

WRITERS Joanna Blanco. Integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients embrace wellness in five interconnected areas of life: relationships, livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet.

Ellen Zoe Golden. Former entertainment biz PR flack, now living the dream as a travel agent and journalist in Tamarindo. Valeria Gonzalez. Owner of Almacen Organico & Natural, Tamarindo. almacenorganicoynatural@gmail.com WhatsApp +54 9 223 5415383. Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys, specializing in real estate and corporate law. igranados@gmattorneyscr.com Mary Martin Mason. Published author whose latest book, Casa de Doloros, was inspired by her experiences and adventures as a U.S. expat living in Atenas, Costa Rica. A regular writer for the Mango Musings blog, and also an award-winning former columnist with The Southwest Journal in Minneapolis, who also taught high school English in Houston, Japan and Minnesota.

Marian Paniagua. Certified nurse and yoga Instructor, and local artisan, born and raised in Guanacaste. 8914-0199. marianpaniagua@gmail.com Tom Schultz. BS Biology and Geology, avid birder and nature photographer, retired software executive. tom@pananima.com Lyssa Quallio. Professional music, poetry and blog writer, yoga teacher yoga and reiki practitioner. Vern Veer Jr. Retired reptile specialist, Denver zoo. Co-owner of V3 Reptile breeders. Ryan Waldron. BS Atmospheric Science, surfer. ryan@witchsrock.com

PHOTOGRAPHERS James Foxx. Self-described passionate Costa Rican soul, living his dreams at the beach in Nosara while pursuing a vibrant and healthy lifestyle, music, photography, videography and digital. Email: jamesfoxxcostarica@gmail.com Instagram @jamesfoxx_photography

Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations. Offering sound journeys, breath work experiences, cacao ceremonies & other activities. hello@puravidavibrations.com

Terry Carlile Victoria Rice Kelly Norris Mary Fernández

E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Debbie Bride - Editorial Coordinator Laurie Quam - Copy Editor Graphic Design Cover Design - Adriana C. Zerpa Cover Artist-Ulises Rivera S pa n i s h T r a n s l at i o n CPI Flamingo HOWLER (™) 2017

C o n ta c t

John Quam - Managing Partner headmonkey@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: ads@howlermag.com Design: design@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 Howler Magazine Costa Rica @howlercostarica @thehowlermag @howlermagazine The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com. The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements. Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services.

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BARBADOS RUM CASK FINISH

Rye Whiskey Finished in a 6-Year Old Barbados Rum Barrel

TASTING NOTES:

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We wondered what it would taste like if we finished a bold, peppery rye in the most exclusive rum casks we could find. The results were beyond anything we could have expected. The barrels we chose for this experiment were used to age a six-year rum just off of Brandons Beach in Bridgetown, Barbados. Complex and full of flavor, the spice and caramel notes of the rye whiskey base are complemented by notes of apricot, banana, orange, and vanilla imparted by the Barbados rum barrel. This bottle is truly a must-have for anyone who enjoys barrel-finished whiskeys. Each batch of Mashbuild has its own signature taste and we pride ourselves on doing things that are different, unique, and unexpected. This barrel-finished rye whiskey is no exception. But no matter which batch of Mashbuild you are tasting, all of them bring a lot of whiskey flavor, all are unique drinking experiences, 100% exclusive, and 100% delicious.

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EDITORIAL

RUN TO THE OPPORTUNITIES

AND EMBRACE THE NEW NORMAL

ver the past many months, almost everyone in the world has faced seemingly insurmountable issues. These times have been challenging for all. I am sure that most are so sick of hearing about the COVID-19 virus and pandemic. I recently made the call that we will not be discussing COVID in Howler articles any more. It is an issue that is very important and cannot be ignored. However, being inundated from all sides is keeping us clogged and immobilized from moving forward. We must all do our part to stay healthy and respect those around us as well. That being said, many positive changes have come from this. Our view of life … how we have lived, and now survive, has been a focus. The material things of the world have been shoved aside as our internal survival instincts have clicked in. Can you go back to doing what you did before? The answer is yes. But why would you want to do that? Having the opportunity and time to reflect on the past in recent months has caused many people to make changes. Many have lost their jobs, their livelihoods and much more. The wake-up call is: are you going to do the same things and live the same way as in the past? The perfect time to reinvent is now. We are in the midst of many opportunities. Many of us were too busy to slow down and be aware of our surroundings. The world is changing, and if you are not changing with it, you are just that same stick in the mud. The same-old same-old.

It’s time to walk outside and smell the air, look at the bright colors of flowers and foliage, the birds singing and the animals running around. People everywhere have been forced recently from a life of hustle bustle to a much slower pace. Maybe some of you have had a chance to visit your children and other family members in a different way. Did you do this before? One of the silver linings of this period is the chance to reconnect with yourself, as well as others, on a different level. The same is true about doing business. We have learned to use many new tools and interact via video conferencing, along with more emails and phone calls. While the person-to-person meeting is truly missed, we’ve seen new opportunities for productivity to increase. I have made many connections over social media such as LinkedIn, which in the past was a more difficult platform to reach people. It has become much easier lately to interact with decisionmakers and movers in many tiers of the business world. Are you going to do the same things the same way when you emerge? We made the corporate decision early on that Howler would not be just the same old publication. I can truly say that if it wasn’t for the pandemic I might have been stuck in a rut that I call the Treadmill Effect. Wake up, coffee, work work work, dinner, bed and repeat. However difficult this time period has been, thankfully, the Howler has stayed around and progressed into many different media ventures. I want to thank everyone who has contributed: writers, advertisers and mostly our engaged readers. You are what has driven us to remain active and not just shut down altogether.

HOWLER

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Howler is not just your average platform magazine or bar rag stained with beer rings when used as a coaster. We have increased our presence on the internet and within our social media platforms to expand to many different markets. Recently we launched our new regional print edition in the Jacó area. Our regional expansion is exciting; however, you will soon see new Howler publications popping up in different countries too. New publications, new locations … ever seeking and growing. This is no time to shut down. The world is open to the people with vision. Remaining relevant has been Howler’s driving force. We have embarked on a new higher level of media interaction that is very high-tech. We now have the ability to reach qualified consumers based on their defined profiles and interactions. The ability to reach and pinpoint opens up many levels of engagement. This is very exciting for us. It’s our response to the world opening up to different possibilities. Have you taken the time to reinvent and emerge as a new butterfly … spreading your wings and engaging with the world? Now is the time, before we get inundated with the trappings of old. The new normal is not something to shun or hide from. Embrace it with gusto and fly. How did you reinvent yourself? We would love to hear your story. The Howler sends out our condolences to those who have been adversely affected by COVID, and those who have even lost loved ones. God bless you.

John B. Quam

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Click on the section for quick access.

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UP FRONT

by Adriana C. Zerpa

L AT I N O A M E R I C A

ARTIST PROFILES ART DEPICTS WHERE WE COME FROM AND A L S O O U R A D V A N C E S T H R O U G H H I S T O R Y.

COVER STORY

he arts are one of the most important connecting fabrics joining cultures across time and distance. Our inner emotions are impacted by art. Art depicts where we come from and also our advances through history. This issue of Howler proudly celebrates Latin American culture and history through art. Several prominent artists from different eras are highlighted, focusing on the passions and ways of thinking that set them apart as visual or musical treasures.

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CU LTU R A LLY COLOR FU L Latin American art defies categorization. The style is inspired by culturally distinctive narratives of culture, politics and social dynamics, against backdrops of native traditions, religion and natural landscapes. The typically vivid colors are an expressive force in their own right, often voices of protest or the impassioned desire to claim cultural identity. The symbolic heritage of IberoAmerican art has been described as part of the profile of its societies and of all its members as individuals. howlermag.com

Art depic where w from and our adva through

Lorenzo and Pedro Arnoldo Cruz Sunu San Pedro La Laguna - Guatemala

cts we come d also ances history.

Mexico Canvas wall art by Giulio Rossi.

It is true that Latin-American art has been influenced from all sides by other styles and cultures. The resulting mixture generates a more globally enriched style to create new trends, while still maintaining its own character, flow and path. Mexico and Costa Rica are cornerstones of Howler’s journey within the world of the arts in Latin America. We have been impacted by the stories of emblematic artistic characters, from those in the early 20th-century such as Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and Chavela Vargas, to more contemporary times with national artists in Costa Rica such as Ulillo Rivera. #s earchf indh owl

Alapinta - Tierra Madre Pachamama (Mother Earth) - Paris, France

We will start in modern times with Ulises Rivera, better known as “Ulillo.” Click Ulises Rivera Prolific Mural Artist to read about the artist and his work. We then invite Howler readers to travel further back through art history in our Arts Culture Entertainment (ACE) section, starting on page 24. There, we showcase the iconic Mexican painters Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, and singer Chavela Vargas, who was born in Costa Rica but clung fiercely to the Mexican artistic and cultural identity she adopted at an early age. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23

UP FRONT by Howler Staff

ULISES RIVERA PROLIFIC MURAL ARTIST

Photos courtesy of Ulises Rivera artwork

H COVER STORY

uman civilizations have expressed themselves through art over time. Examples are the ancient petroglyphs and the Egyption murals. The Latin American Mexican muralist movement emerged from the most important revolutionary revolutionary period of urban art. Painted on walls of cities and building enclosures, they speak as visual art that expresses colonial and post-colonial architecture in what is known today as street art.

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Ulises “Ulillo” Rivera is a self-taught artist who was born in Mexico but raised in Costa Rica, where he currently resides. From a very young age, Ulillo was influenced by art. He studied graphic design but it was on the walls of buildings that he found his medium. He started doing graffiti in the year 2012, when his great interest in street art led him to develop a style influenced by geometric shapes. With a solid graphics identity, Rivera’s murals and canvases are based on the use of color, textures and shapes to create geometric abstractions that play with different dimensions to convey strength and depth in his work.

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Ulilo uses a language that speaks about the artist’s surrounding environment.

As an artist, his inspiration is born from the visual richness of where he lives. With the knowledge acquired about shapes, color and composition, Ulilo uses a language that speaks about the artist’s surrounding environment. This combination of aesthetics and ideas led him to develop a unique style, allowing him to differentiate between the street art scene in Costa Rica. Rivera’s artistic style carries a different message to all his viewers. As part of his contribution to social enrichment, it is born out of the necessity of space recovery. Ulillo searches for a different support — either a wall or facade — which can be intervened to illustrate the public space. By changing the scenery of the city, he makes art accessible to anyone. #s earchf indh owl

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by Mary Martin Mason

CHASING

FRIDA KAHLO DIEGO RIVERA

CULTURAL HERITAGE

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

ACROSS BORDERS

ears ago I was a columnist for a Minneapolis neighborhood newspaper. My column allowed me to intrude upon famous and infamous residents of the City of Lakes. Two people I interviewed introduced me to the personalities of Mexican muralist Diego Rivera, and painter Frida Kahlo. I’ve been in hot pursuit of these icons ever since, sometimes chasing them across various countries to decipher the enigmas of their lives and their art.

A descendant of Cornelius Vanderbilt, Field was disinherited by his capitalist family at a young age after declaring himself a communist. In 1953, the cloud of McCarthyism found him self-exiled in Mexico, where he would live for the next three decades. There Fred befriended Diego Rivera, sharing an interest in pre-Columbian artifacts and Communist Party activities. He also met Nieves, a dancer and reportedly Diego’s favorite model.

My quest began in Minnesota where Rivera’s longtime friend, Fred Vanderbilt Field, and his Mexican wife, Nieves Orozo, settled in 1982. With our paths crossing through my newspaper assignment, both Fred and Nieves became fascinating fixtures in my life for a short period.

Fred and Nieves told me tales of a rotund, yet charming Rivera and his fanatically jealous wife, Frida Kahlo. Her most notable trait Rivera described as, “thick eyebrows that met at her nose like two wings of a blackbird.” Fred and Nieves also recalled a volatile Frida erupting into arguments with her husband, a monkey wrapped around her neck like a boa, and pet parrots landing on her shoulders.

Diego’s art reflects a compulsive passion to tell the story of his country. Frida’s expresses the angst of her life circumstances #s earchf indh owl

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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

EX H IBI T O F L I F E Years later, in 2007, I attended a Frida Kahlo exhibit at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis. Nearly 50 of her paintings were displayed, along with 90 newly released photographs of Frida and Diego with people who Fred and Nieves had often mentioned to me. Kahlo’s paintings were diaries, putting self-portraits beside images of multiple surgeries, stillborn babies and therapeutic abortions. They recorded her marital struggles with Diego and declaration of allegiance to communism. This is a more complex, multi-faceted Frida. At the exhibition I purchased a Diego Rivera print that features Nieves kneeling before a man with a mammoth arrangement of calla lilies on his back. Her feet are folded behind her, braids hanging long, her clothing and jewelry of the indigenous style Diego admired so much. This framed print now hangs in my Costa Rican home as an homage to Nieves.

CULTURAL HERITAGE

MEX ICO C I TY ART TO UR In 2013, during a purposely scheduled 24-hour layover in Mexico City, I hired a cab driver named Jesus for the day to show me the art of Rivera and Kahlo. So it came to pass that Mary, with Jesus as my driver, went to the Palacio Nacional de Mexico to view the murals that have become Diego’s hallmark as an artist. It is hard to imagine the larger than life, egotistical Diego feeling inferior. As a young man for many years in Europe,

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he imitated the art styles refined by his friends Pablo Picasso and Juan Gris. Later, he became aware of his self-described “Mexican American inferiority complex, my awe before historic Europe and its culture.” That changed during a voyage that Diego made from Hamburg to Mexico, when a glorious sunset unfolded with a series of glaring red balls that came to rest on a bank of clouds. In his autobiography, My Art, My Life, Diego said that image provided the inspiration for his masterpiece that begins at the top of the Palacio Nacional de Mexico stairway. As one ascends the stairs, a series of murals become visible that depict the preSpanish Conquest of his country. Then, like the unveiling of a sunset, a walk around the Palacio reveals the history of Mexico, including Diego’s present and the future that he foresaw. I left with an appreciation of a body of work begun in 1929 that ended in 1935 with additional panels completed in 1940. Diego Rivera’s murals represented a new national identity for both himself and his country. My Mexico quest continued the same day at Frida Kahlo's Casa Azul, and would be followed by a return visit in 2014. See the related article Museum Frida Kahlo on page 50."

ETERNAL BONDS: LOVE AND ART Frida first met Rivera when she was an art student, hoping to get advice on her career from the famous Mexican

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Hulton Archive

Working side by side, c. 1939 Rivera reads while Kahlo works beneath her famous 1939 painting, "The two Fridas". GETTY IMAGES STOCK COLLECTION

Nickolas Muray Frida Kahlo On White Bench, New York (2nd Edition), 1939 Matthew Liu Fine Arts Contact gallery

Nickolas Muray Frida & Diego with Hat, c. 1939 Gelatin silver print PDNB Gallery Contact gallery

Nickolas Muray Frida and Diego with Gas Mask, 1938 PDNB Gallery Contact gallery

Nickolas Muray Frida Kahlo, c.1939 Carbon pigment print PDNB Gallery Contact gallery

Nickolas Muray Frida leaning on a sculpture by Mardonio Magaña, Coyoacán, c.1940 Digital pigment print on Hahnemuhle Photo Rag paper GILCREASE MUSEUM Contact gallery

Unknown

Nickolas Muray

Wallace Marly / Hulton Archive

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, c.1940

Frida with Picasso earrings, c. 1939 Carbon pigment print PDNB Gallery Contact gallery

Frida and Diego with a monkey, Getty Images stock

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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

muralist. Although Rivera was married, a courtship ensued. They wed in 1929, when Diego was 42 and Frida 22, much to the disapproval of Frida's parents, who referred to the couple as "the elephant and the dove." Volatile tempers and countless infidelities made the marriage notoriously tumultuous. The couple divorced in 1939, only to remarry a year later, though the second marriage was just as turbulent as the first.

Frida y Diego.

CULTURAL HERITAGE

Diego’s art reflects a compulsive passion to tell the story of his country. Frida’s expresses the angst of her life circumstances, a life that by Diego’s own admission was made more difficult by his inability to be faithful to her. The two, who were volatile in life, are now inseparable in the art world. On a subsequent trip to Mexico for Day of the Dead, I visited Diego’s birthplace in Guanajunto. Strolling past the room where he was born, which still contains his crib, I came upon the altar or ofrenda for Dias de los Muertos. Despite this museum being a homage to Diego, half of the altar was dedicated to Frida, each being the other’s alter ego.

Frida y Diego kiss colour

Diego once said that when he first met Frida and visited her house to view her paintings, “I did not know it then, but Frida had already become the most important fact in my life. And she would continue to be, up to the moment she died.” Emmy Lou Packard Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, 1941

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by Mary Martin Mason

MUSEUM

FRIDA KAHLO

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

C A P T I VAT I N G B LU E H O U S E

VISIT THE VIRTUAL MUSEUM CLICK HERE

A URBAN TOURISM

n hour before closing time, culminating my whirlwind one-day art tour focusing on Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, I arrived at La Casa Azul in Mexico City's lovely barrio of Coyoacán.

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Highlighting my subsequent visit to Casa Azul in late 2014 was a temporary exhibit of Kahlo’s leg corset, crutches and a prosthetic leg attached to a colorful boot that she decorated with Chinese dragons. Diego had not allowed these objects to be displayed until at least 50 years had passed since her death in 1954.

Casa Azul, home of the Frida Kahlo Museum, is appropriately named, the outside a cobalt blue that is unrivaled in nature. Inside, the rooms were bathed in a light any painter would envy. Here, off and on, Frida lived with Diego Rivera. It is the same house where she was born, grew up and died. In 1958, Diego had donated the house in Frida’s honor.

The medical devices revealed the full extent of Frida’s constant pain, resulting from polio as a child and by a metal bar that had impaled her when she was in a streetcar accident. She had decorated each object as if it were a canvas, providing further insight into her character.

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Read the full story of my discoveries about this iconic pair of artists in the article Chasing Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Across Borders on page 47.

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â€˜There is no one who can endure the freedom of others; nobody likes to live with a free person.â€™ 34 |#searchfindhowl| online

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Chavela

VARGAS by Adriana C. Zerpa

ARTIST SPOTLIGHT

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

I N D O M I TA B L E N O N - C O N F O R M I S T A H E A D O F H E R T I M E

aría Isabel Anita Carmen de Jesús Vargas Lizano, better known as Chavela Vargas, Mexican ranchera singer and rebellious free spirit, knew from a very young age what it meant to be different. With an indomitable spirit and progressive ideals for her time, she was described as a “mare without a paddock or a dog without a muzzle.” Born in San Joaquín de Flores, Costa Rica, on April 17, 1919, Vargas grew up in Guanacaste in a conservative family that considered her strange. Chavela’s decision to move to Mexico at the age of 17 was motivated by the need to leave behind a family that never showed her affection and pursue her personal freedom. Feeling pushed to leave her homeland, she said, "I was anxious to get to Mexico. Something was calling me out as if something or someone was waiting for me. That something or someone was art, and I was very happy to find it." ON A WOMAN’S TERMS But it was not easy for Vargas. "Mexico, a big giant, raised me but not with kisses and hugs,” she recalled. “On the contrary, Mexico says ... learn to be a woman. If you want to be what you want, you have to be a woman. I'm going to raise in the land of men.” #s earchf indh owl

Chavela’s vocal talents found her performing her songs in clubs, cabarets and squares, but never in big theaters. Known for her heartbreakingly harsh voice, she was recognized for the way her songs came from the soul. Dramatizing rancheras and boleros, she owned the sadness and loneliness in expressing love, spite, jealousy, anguish and passion. She and her guitar were the only things needed to shake and tear at the emotions of everyone listening. Between parties and tequilas, Vargas succumbed to the devastating effects of alcoholism, which kept her out of the scene for 12 years. She described alcoholism as a disease of loneliness, the abandonment of being surrounded by many people and at the same time nothing. It was not until after 40 years of sobriety that she appeared at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, Ciudad de México. In a 1996 RTVE documentary, Chavela’s interviewer, Ana Cristina Navarro, described the singer as living “bitterly and thoroughly as the brave usually do.” Her rebellious nature was offset by cunning and patience attributed to the heritage of her Central American origins.

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“I love the culture of the pure Indian,” she said. “They are the most beautiful on earth.” Well known for rejecting traditional social norms and expectations, Vargas elaborated in the biographical documentary “Chavela,” directed by Catherine Gund and Daresha Kyi and released on Netflix in 2017. "I carry the Revolution in my soul because I am not a conformist. A person who is like that has within him that something that can no longer bear to do everything as others want. I would not have built an artist career if I had been a conformist. It was very bad for me being like that; they criticized me because I broke parameters. I always seek never to bend over, not for money or for anything." EPIC LOVE STORY Eventually after moving to Mexico, the singer was invited by a painter friend to a party at the famous Casa Azul in Coyoacán, Mexico, where Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo resided from 1929 to 1954. Chavela’s introduction to the couple on that occasion led to a relationship that went beyond a good friendship between her and Frida Kahlo. Chavela claims to have lived together with Kahlo for four years at Casa Azul. Although Chavela had many women in her life, her great love Frida Kahlo overshadowed the others with an intensity apparent from the instant they met. “It was a daze to see her face, her eyes. I thought it was not a being of this world,” Vargas recalled on different occasions. “Her eyebrows together were a ‘swallow’ flying. Without still having the maturity of the woman in me, since I was very young, I sensed that I could love that being with the most dedicated love in the world, the most tied love in the world. Frida taught me many things and I learned a lot, and without showing off anything, I grasped the sky with my hands, with every word, every morning. She spread tenderness like flowers, yes, like flowers. A great tenderness, an infinite tenderness.”

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The painter, in turn, was fascinated by Chavela’s singing. "In the mornings I sang, perhaps not for her, but I sang my freedom in love," she said. Ultimately, it was the singer’s desire for freedom that ended her relationship with Kahlo. “My words possibly hurt her a lot when I told her that I was leaving sometime. And she told me, 'I know, it is impossible to tie you to anybody's life. I can't tie you to my crutches or to my bed. Go away.' And one day I opened the door and didn't come back. She wasn't from here or there, she had no age.” Chavela’s self-awareness about the cost of being a free spirit was profound. “There is no one who can endure the freedom of others; nobody likes to live with a free person,” she stated. “If you are free, that is the price you have to pay: loneliness.” Her outlook on life and love was equally bittersweet. “Love is so short and forgetting — oblivion — is so long. But who has not loved has not lived.” S E N S AT I O N I N S PA I N In later years, Vargas began a new life chapter in Spain, attracting notice from diverse artistic circles, notably through her relationship with the film director Pedro Almodóvar. Of her performances honoring the revered Mexican singer/songwriter José Alfredo Jiménez, Almodóvar declared that no living being could sing with such due heartbreak. "With the emphasis of the endings of his songs she created a new genre that should bear her name ... she turned the lament into an anthem,” he said. “This is how Chavela interpreted the songs of this singer as if she were living them, not only out of admiration but because she met the singer.” In the early 1990s, the film director helped Vargas revive her career in Spain after a long time away from the stage, guiding her and accompanying her. Almodóvar had actually admired the singer long before meeting her, and ultimately they became inseparable. Chavela died in Cuernavaca, Mexico in 2012. She will always be remembered for being a woman … a Latin-American artist of mythical stature who did what a real “cabrona” wanted for her time.

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CHEERS! FLOR GINGER One of Flor de Caña’s signature serves is the Flor Ginger, an easy to make and refreshing long drink made with Flor de Caña 12 Year Rum. Ingredients

• 1 1/2 parts of Flor de Caña 12 Year Rum4 tsp. lemon juice • 3 parts ginger ale • Orange peel Method of Preparation Pour the Flor de Caña 12 Year Rum into a Collins glass with ice. Add ginger ale, decorate with orange peel and enjoy!

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

THE END

Story and photos by Tom Schultz

FEATURED ADVENTURE

OF THE ROAD

A Trip to Panama’s Darién Gap

T Being able to visit the area is a relatively new phenomenon, at least in safe circumstances. 42 |#searchfindhowl| online

here is so much to see and do here in Costa Rica that it’s easy to overlook the undiscovered wonders of neighboring countries in Central America. Our trip to the Darién Gap in Panama was a good reminder. Note: This was in January 2020, well before international border closures due to COVID-19. As the official divide between the North and South American

continents, the Darién Gap is a huge wetland dissected by rivers and covered with thick forests. The terrain is so impenetrable it has confounded everyone from early explorers to even the builders of the PanAmerican Highway. To this day, a 106-kilometer gap still separates the highway’s northern and southern portions. Notions of completing the road have been thwarted first by disease and construction costs, and more recently by opposition from indigenous people and howlermag.com

VIDEO

Lake Bayano

environmentalists. So now the vast majority of the Darién is a protected national park between Panama and Colombia. Being able to visit the area is a relatively new phenomenon, at least in safe circumstances. It has been, and sadly still is, a haven for narco traffickers. That’s one reason you are better off with a guide than trying to visit the Darién on your own. The formidable terrain also made it a perfect hiding place and operations base for the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC)

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rebels. This danger persisted as recently as 2013, when a Swedish backpacker was killed by the FARC rebels. Although the Colombian peace accord has enabled many such areas to become open to tourists, the Darién has yet to attract a significant number of travelers. In fact, Panama’s tourist ministry has stated — with more than a little envy — that Costa Rica’s Manual Antonio National Park attracts more visitors in a single day than the total annual number of visitors to Darién National Park.

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FEATURED ADVENTURE 44 |#searchfindhowl| online

Lake Bayano.

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Canoes plying the Río Chucunaque, the only transportation beyond Darién’s end of the road.

H OW AND W HERE The Darién is accessible either by flying to Panama City first and then taking a long drive, or via a much longer drive all the way from Costa Rica. Not wanting to spend two days driving there, we went with the first option. Be prepared with passports ready and official approval to enter the Darién, another reason why traveling with a guide is recommended. We were stopped at three different checkpoints by Panamanian security forces. These encounters are friendly enough, as tourists are encouraged, but may seem jarring to uninitiated visitors. En route you pass through Lake Bayano, a large hydroelectric and drinking water project, not unlike Lake Arenal. Upon officially entering the Darién, it’s readily apparent how much deforestation has occurred in eastern Panama. Not until the end of the road do you finally reach the real Darién Gap. Your home base is Meteti, a somewhat dingy conglomeration of a town whose population is about 8,000. It has one bank with an ATM, two hotels (one not even listed on sites like TripAdvisor), more than enough evangelical temples and three or four

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eateries. We stayed at the Hotel and Restaurant Bellagio, a tad bizarre building, only one-third completed but with comfortable enough rooms and — more importantly for the area — air conditioning. The restaurant was curious. Every night, without exception, we were presented with a huge 10-to12-page fancy menu, only to learn 95% of all the items listed were not available. Meals that could be served were random: fresh seafood was always available, while ingredients like cheese or salads were in short supply. But ice-cold Balboa, the local beer, was perfect after a hot day in the jungle. Breakfast and lunches can be found at small local restaurants, similar to Tico “sodas.” They serve real Panamanian foods like bollos - tubular shaped cooked masa (corn dough) similar to tamales in Costa Rica. One striking aspect of travel in Panama are the prices. Gasoline is about $2.90 a gallon, you can eat breakfast or lunch for $3 and order an ice-cold beer in restaurants for only $1.50. Panama’s official currency is the U.S. dollar, although change is sometimes given in the former Balboa currency. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 45

FEATURED ADVENTURE

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Male harpy eaglehowlermag.com keeping a watchful eye on its nest of young.

I N S EARC H O F A MYTH

Young harpy eagle in nest

Male crested eagle

Female crested eagle

Our trip to the Darién with the Birding Club of Costa Rica (see my March 2018 Howler article about the group) had one major purpose. It was our quest for a magnificent bird with a mythological name — the harpy eagle. One of the world’s largest eagle species, it is known for being strong enough to carry several times its own weight, and eating mostly sloths and monkeys. This eagle’s name derives from Greek mythology. As the half-bird, half-woman personification of storms and wind, the harpies are best known from the writings of Homer and the tales of Jason and the Argonauts. When you see one, you understand why the Spaniards called them harpies when first encountered. Once seen in Costa Rica, harpy eagles have since been relegated here to almost mythical status due to deforestation. The eastern Panama area we visited and northern Colombia remain one of the last viable breeding areas. To try catching a glimpse of the harpy eagle while visiting the Darién — or its lesser known, but more threatened relative, the crested eagle — you must start at the end of the road. From Meteti, you drive another hour until the road literally ends in the port village of Yaviza. It’s like being dumped

onto a few businesses, the town cemetery, the bus stop, and most important, the docks. From Yaviza on, only boat travel is possible — mostly long, dugout type canoes powered by an outboard motor — starting at the Río Chucunaque. After driving in darkness to the boat launch, it took about another 90 minutes to reach the actual Darién National Park entrance. The river trip at sunrise was amazing, as were the animals, birds, scenery and even people we spotted en route. Some locations where we landed were fincas, where we had to hike several kilometers to get to the large cuipo ceiba tree forests. Sometimes we stood only a meter above sea level in places that almost disappeared underwater as the tide rose. We came to understand how difficult it is to move around in these jungles. Our birding excursion was not in vain! We got to see both eagle species with their nests: a four-month old harpy eagle guarded by its father and a hungry 15-month old crested eagle urging its mother for food. She ignored its complaints, making the young bird start hunting for itself. Needless to say, these eagle sightings were a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

The endemic dusky-backed jacamar is THE reason many travel up river to Nueva Vigia, one of the few places in the world this bird can be seen. #s earchf indh owl

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P O LI T I C S A ND C U LT U RE

FEATURED ADVENTURE

The final day of our trip found us setting out for a different river port, in an area called Peñitas, where we planned to embark on an upstream trip on the Río Tuquesa to see more nature and visit an indigenous village. We arrived to find that our canoe departure spot is now a joint Panamanian government/ UNICEF-run migrant refugee camp. UNICEF has deemed the Darién crossing as one of the most dangerous in the world, but the organization is receiving over 1,000 displaced persons each month from 44 nations, including women, children, unaccompanied minors and families. Many of them are fleeing violence in Africa (particularly Chad) and were brought to Brazil, only to work in near slave-like conditions. Many others are Venezuelans, whose exodus rivals the millions fleeing Syria. This was a profoundly sobering and shocking reality check for all of us, concerning what we have, what we should be sharing and how our governments should be acting at the borders.

Update: As reported by Cronkite News on July 2, 2020, the international refugee camp at Panama’s Darién crossing has been marked by unrest in recent months. The Panama government is allowing refugees to remain, but most do not want to, nor do they

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wish to return to their home country. Neither Costa Rica nor Nicaragua is allowing passage. We boarded our canoes and headed upstream for about 40 minutes, approaching a region inhabited by the indigenous Emberá people. The area is gradually becoming protected and reforested with funding from Panama Canal revenues, with some land also being planted with coffee. We first landed in what is an upand-coming cafetal (coffee plantation), then crossed the river to the Emberá village of Nuevo Vigía. We were greeted by a group of girls dressed and tattooed in native style. They took our hands and led us to a gathering place where the local women were selling handcrafted items, mostly depicting bird or animal motifs. Then the girls treated us to a performance of native dances depicting monkeys and even hummingbirds.

Hiking through the reforested area in Nuevo Vigila

Indigenous villagers welcome visitors at Nuevo Vigia landing

Nuevo Vigia village

Visiting Nuevo Vigía turned out to be a highlight of our Panama trip. We walked through the village, then hiked on a trail through fairly new second-growth forest comprising part of the reforestation effort. So if you have a strong sense of adventure, with a compelling desire to go beyond where the road ends, take a trip to the Darién Gap. howlermag.com Refugee doing laundry at the Penitas refugee camp

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Young Emberรก girls at the village of Nuevo Vigia | 49 HM HOWLER MAGAZINE

Photo & video credit: Richie Ramone/Carive Productions @cariveproductions www.cariveproductions.com

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An estimated one-third of adult turtles have ingested plastic bags, mistaking them for food.

The leatherback life cycle begins when nesting females lay their eggs in the sand.

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by Vern Veer and Howler Staff

LEATHERBACK

NESTING SEASON A Close-to-Home Concern

he leatherback sea turtle is the largest of all surviving turtle species. It’s also the fourth heaviest reptile, with three species of crocodile weighing more. Leatherbacks are differentiated from other sea turtles by their lack of a bony shell. Instead, the top shell for which they are named is covered by skin and oily flesh.

CREATURE FEATURE

Leatherbacks nest along beaches extending as far north as Alaska and Norway, and as far south as Cape Agulhas in Africa and New Zealand’s southernmost tip. The current nesting season in Costa Rica began in October and continues through mid-February. The primary food source of leatherbacks is the jellyfish, which helps keep the jellyfish population down. Unfortunately, coastline pollution from discarded plastic bags — Californians alone use upward of 19 billion plastic bags every year — poses a man-made risk to leatherbacks. An estimated one-third of adult turtles have ingested plastic bags, mistaking them for food. The leatherback is designated as VU (vulnerable) on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Various benevolent groups such as Earth Watch are working with scientists to conduct important environmental research in this regard.

Welcome to the vast world. Photo: Eric Kurzbard.

The Leatherback Trust was founded specifically in the interest of its namesake sea turtle conservation. The foundation established a sanctuary in the Tamarindo-Playa Grande area of Costa Rica, the Las Baulas National Marine Park. This is one of the most significant leatherback nesting spots in the world. If you want to get involved in helping these turtles, visit www.leatherback.org for information. Read about the declining turtle population in Playa Grande in the March 2017 Howler article Where Have All the Leatherbacks Gone? Our March/April 2020 article Sea Turtles Forever describes the efforts of volunteer turtle protectors in Costa Rica’s Los Pargos/Playa Negra area. In Howler’s November 2018 issue, Turtle in Trouble is a success story about a rescued sea turtle’s life-saving surgery and rehabilitation by Tamarindo veterinarian Dr. Gilberth Cavallini before release back to the ocean. The turtle’s fin had to be amputated due to serious injuries caused by embedded nylon fishing line.

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 53

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 55

MOON PHASES

NOVEMBER TIDE CHART DAY

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

Nov 1

Sun

03:05 / 9.04 ft

09:17 / 0.28 ft

15:30 / 8.42 ft

21:24 / 0.77 ft

Nov 2

Mon

03:39 / 9.09 ft

09:50 / 0.19 ft

16:05 / 8.40 ft

21:57 / 0.83 ft

Nov 3

Tue

04:13 / 9.02 ft

10:25 / 0.24 ft

16:40 / 8.26 ft

22:32 / 0.99 ft

Nov 4

Wed

04:48 / 8.83 ft

11:00 / 0.41 ft

17:17 / 8.04 ft

23:08 / 1.23 ft

Nov 5

Thu

05:24 / 8.54 ft

11:38 / 0.67 ft

17:56 / 7.78 ft

23:48 / 1.51 ft

Nov 6

Fri

06:04 / 8.17 ft

12:18 / 1.00 ft

18:39 / 7.52 ft

Nov 7

Sat

00:32 / 1.79 ft

06:49 / 7.79 ft

13:04 / 1.32 ft

19:28 / 7.33 ft

Nov 8

Sun

01:25 / 2.02 ft

07:43 / 7.45 ft

13:57 / 1.57 ft

20:26 / 7.29 ft

Nov 9

Mon

02:26 / 2.11 ft

08:47 / 7.26 ft

14:57 / 1.67 ft

21:30 / 7.46 ft

Nov 10

Tue

03:36 / 1.96 ft

09:56 / 7.31 ft

16:02 / 1.55 ft

22:34 / 7.88 ft

Nov 11

Wed

04:44 / 1.53 ft

11:03 / 7.63 ft

17:05 / 1.21 ft

23:34 / 8.50 ft

Nov 12

Thu

05:47 / 0.90 ft

12:03 / 8.13 ft

18:04 / 0.71 ft

Nov 13

Fri

00:29 / 9.19 ft

06:43 / 0.19 ft

12:58 / 8.70 ft

18:58 / 0.18 ft

Nov 14

Sat

01:20 / 9.85 ft

07:35 / -0.47 ft

13:50 / 9.23 ft

19:49 / -0.27 ft

Nov 15

Sun

02:09 / 10.36 ft

08:25 / -0.97 ft

14:40 / 9.62 ft

20:39 / -0.56 ft

Nov 16

Mon

02:58 / 10.63 ft

09:13 / -1.24 ft

15:28 / 9.81 ft

21:28 / -0.63 ft

Nov 17

Tue

03:46 / 10.64 ft

10:01 / -1.25 ft

16:18 / 9.78 ft

22:17 / -0.46 ft

Nov 18

Wed

04:35 / 10.37 ft

10:50 / -1.00 ft

17:08 / 9.55 ft

23:08 / -0.07 ft

Nov 19

Thu

05:25 / 9.86 ft

11:39 / -0.54 ft

18:00 / 9.15 ft

Nov 20

Fri

00:00 / 0.47 ft

06:17 / 9.19 ft

12:31 / 0.05 ft

18:55 / 8.67 ft

Nov 21

Sat

00:57 / 1.07 ft

07:13 / 8.47 ft

13:26 / 0.68 ft

19:54 / 8.22 ft

Nov 22

Sun

01:58 / 1.60 ft

08:14 / 7.83 ft

14:26 / 1.23 ft

20:57 / 7.89 ft

Nov 23

Mon

03:05 / 1.97 ft

09:19 / 7.37 ft

15:29 / 1.63 ft

22:01 / 7.74 ft

Nov 24

Tue

04:14 / 2.08 ft

10:26 / 7.15 ft

16:32 / 1.83 ft

23:00 / 7.78 ft

Nov 25

Wed

05:18 / 1.97 ft

11:26 / 7.15 ft

17:29 / 1.86 ft

23:53 / 7.94 ft

Nov 26

Thu

06:12 / 1.71 ft

12:20 / 7.30 ft

18:19 / 1.77 ft

Nov 27

Fri

00:39 / 8.17 ft

06:57 / 1.38 ft

13:06 / 7.53 ft

19:02 / 1.62 ft

Nov 28

Sat

01:20 / 8.43 ft

07:37 / 1.04 ft

13:48 / 7.77 ft

19:41 / 1.45 ft

Nov 29

Sun

01:58 / 8.67 ft

08:14 / 0.72 ft

14:27 / 7.99 ft

20:19 / 1.29 ft

Nov 30

Mon

02:35 / 8.86 ft

08:50 / 0.47 ft

15:05 / 8.16 ft

20:56 / 1.17 ft

NOV 15 New Moon

NOV 21 1st Quarter

NOV 24

3rd Quarter

NOV 30 Full Moon

SUNRISE NOV 1 NOV 30

5:27 am 5:38 am

Maui...Jan 2020 Massive Waves:

SUNSET NOV 1 NOV 30

5:13 pm 5:13 pm

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HIGH TIDES

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SURFINâ€ŠG COSTA RICA

See more of howler's surfing section in our website

click here! #s earchf indh owl

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JAMES FOXX by Howler Staff

SURF PHOTOGRAPHER

P H OTO G R A P H Y

A PA S S I O N AT E S O U L L I V I N G T H E D R E A M

ames Foxx is a passionate Costa Rican soul whose Tico birth name is Jaime Abarca. From the time he was very young, his friends and family have called him James; then, over the course of his life he added “foxx” for inspiration on all of his journeys. Since James was a little boy, his dream has always been to live at the beach. With that comes his dedication to good causes and to what most motivates him, namely

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a vibrant and healthy lifestyle, music and the art of photography, videography and digital art. “Photography has always been one of my many passions,” James told us. “Since I consider myself a multifaceted person, I did not dedicate myself to this full-time until a few years back when I started traveling. So outdoor photography is what calls my attention the most — animals and nature.” howlermag.com

Guiones Beach November 7, 2019

One of the first and best aerial shots. Surfer: Vibert Wingrove B.

Marbella Beach, July 17, 2020

My favorite wave. It never let me down.

It was also a perfect fit with his other aspirations, James adds. â€œThe beach, surf and surf photography have always been a huge interest in my life, and a dream that I needed to fulfill. It happened right in the beautiful Nosara area.â€? Most of his life, James has also been devoted to travel and to the study of natural and holistic therapies such as reiki, yoga and accupressure. #s earchf indh owl

In addition to his photography business and during his free time, James currently serves as a volunteer for his local firefighter and lifeguard department, the Bomberos de Nosara. James is pleased to share with Howler readers this collection of favorite images, each from his artistic perspective.

CLICK HERE TO SEE MORE

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The Oregon Coast lineup. A dream place.

SURF PHOTOGRAPHER

Barrigona Beach, 2020. An awesome rotation. Surfer: Anthony Flores.

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VIDEO

Guiones Beach, 2020.

Barrigona Beach, 2020.

Guiones Beach,, November 2019.

A perfect combination of elements and passion. Surfer: Teale Beckenbach

A nice glassy barrel right before it closes. Surfer: Aldair Hernandez

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I love the water motion launching him out. Surfer: Vibert Wingrove

The pro longboard surfer Dorian Torres having fun.

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SURFING COSTA RICA

SWELLS COSTA RICA by Ryan Waldron

MAKE

SURF SCIENCE

A L E A D I N G S U R F D E S T I N AT I O N

aves are nothing more than traveling vessels of energy. Born from strong winds blowing in all corners of the planet, ocean waves traverse

thousands of miles through open water just to come crashing down for our enjoyment. Aside from the visual aesthetics of watching perfectly peeling waves, an experienced surfer can also obtain detailed information about a wave’s origin just by observing a few specific qualities in the surf zone. In terms of surf destinations, Costa Rica certainly ranks among the leaders worldwide. With the all-year consistency of water conditions, variety of surf spots, perfect climate, and overall wave quality, it’s almost impossible not to score the best

It’s almost impossible not to score the best waves of your life here.

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waves of your life here. Swells are a key factor. Let’s look at Costa Rica’s swell producers, when each of these events occurs and some Howler insider tips to aid your search for the next perfect wave.

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S O U T H PA C I F I C S W E L L S

T RO P I C A L S TO R M S W E L L S

These are the swells that provide Costa Rica with consistent surf throughout most of the year, making it a year-round surf destination. Because there are no significant land masses blocking the howling winds of the south Pacific, major storms can swirl at the low latitudes for several days, giving us extended swell events (three to five days) with longperiod wave energy (14 to 22 seconds). Although you can catch these SPAC swells throughout the year, your best chance for catching “The Big One” is between June and September. During these months, surfers can expect a diurnal wind pattern each day with offshore winds in the morning, light onshore breezes during the day, and an evening glass-off for sunset. South Pacific swells can come from a range of directions and angles — 170° to 240°.

Costa Rica has never been known for hurricanes until Hurricane Otto passed over in November 2016 and Tropical Storm Nate in October 2017. During the peak months of the Pacific hurricane season, tropical cyclones off the coast of Mexico will send a quick shot of medium-period swell (10 to 14 seconds) in our direction.

Insider tip: To light up Tamarindo, the swell needs to be greater than 210°. Beaches with direct south exposure receive more of this swell energy. Playa Grande is an example.

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This only happens a few times a year, but when a nice pulse of northwesterly hurricane swell impacts the region, most beaches can expect fun, peaky waves along the coast. Furthermore, hidden nooks and crannies that you would never think to check will light up unexpectedly with the unique swell angle (280° to 310°). The wind this time of year can be a bit more unpredictable, but there is usually a favorable window in the morning, and sometimes during the day with a passing shower. When all the elements align, these can be some of the best swell events of the year. Insider tip: Head to a beach break with a wide swell window that can pick up northerly and southerly swells for peaky, powerful waves. Avellanas is an example.

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TEHUANO WIND SWELLS The narrowest part of Mexico that connects the Pacific to the Caribbean is known as the Tehuano wind gap. Separated by mountains on either side, this valley has been known to produce hurricane force winds and some pretty sizable ocean conditions right offshore. Whenever a strong cold front passes to the north, strong winds funnel through the valley and meet the ocean on the other side.

SURF SCIENCE

N O R T H PA C I F I C S W E L L S As the seasons change and South Pacific swell energy slows down a bit, the north Pacific bounces back to life and produces some of the largest Pacific Ocean wave heights of the year. Whenever there is an extra-large swell that rolls through Hawaii, Costa Rica can expect longperiod swell (15 to 24 seconds) to arrive three or four days later. These swells are a bit more fickle, but when they do come, they are usually met with our summertime offshore winds and pristine conditions. The unique northwesterly swell angle (280° to 300°), long-period energy and offshore wind combination, can provide some of the best surf sessions all year.

Lucky for us, northern Costa Rica is perfectly exposed to this abnormally steep-angled swell (300° plus). When this happens, our beaches will pick up a quick northerly pulse that can add an extra foot or so to an underlying swell. Since the Nicoya Peninsula protrudes from the coastline, many locations to our south will not feel any energy at all while spots with northerly exposure will pick up a punchy dose of medium-period swell (10 to 13 seconds). Sometimes, when the waves get a bit smaller, a swell like this can be the saving grace for surfers looking for crossed-up peaks. Insider tip: Look for these swells yourself. Most forecasting sites will not register incoming swell. But trust me … they do happen and are super fun!

Insider tip: When these swells happen, there is no need to leave Tamarindo.

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Located just north of Huacas (1 km) on your way to Brasilito. CLICK on this page to discover our business partners, map and more!

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A SURF SHOPPING GUIDE

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RIDING ON by Ellen Zoe Golden

THE RIGHT BOARD

xperienced surfers work with their shaper to come up with just the right board or boards to use for different types of wave conditions and

breaks. It’s not just a simple matter of going into a shop and picking out the nicest looking board. It’s a process

SURF FEATURE

of taking into consideration your skill level, body weight, where you want to surf and what the waves potentially look like. Of course, it’s also a matter of whether you are going to rip from bottom to lip, fly into tricks or choose a beautiful glide or nose ride. Here’s a general look at what each type of surfboard offers. Keep in mind that with further individual specifications, a board can do even more than what’s noted.

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With further individual specifications, a board can do even more than what’s noted. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 69

W H AT K I N D O F S U R F B O A C H O O S E

T H E

B E S T

F I T

W I T H

Y O U

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FISH Here’s your best bet for buoyancy — the option of a shortboard style but with easier access to rides in smaller waves. It’s all about the volume on these surfboards, which are generally around 6 feet and under. They have fin setups of double or even quads, and a tail that, well, looks like a fish: wide with a deep cut in the middle. 70 |#searchfindhowl| online

SHORTBOARD

HYDROFOIL

These are thinner, shorter, Over the last decade, high-performance boards that hydrofoil boards are need to be pumped from rail gradually making their way to rail, with pressure on the into the lineups. In the paddle back and alternating to the out, they look the same as any front. Shortboards are great for other shortboard, but below steep, fast and powerful waves the surface is the hydrofoil of some size. Because of the — a mounted ski that acts as speed, a surfer can launch into a keel — causing the board the air for more challenging to rise above the water with maneuvers or power surf up and speed. How does that work? down the line. Achieve lots of Since waves are energy rocker, pointy nose and usually moving through water, the a 3-fin setup. Takeoff is closer to hydrofoil taps into this the peak, so strong paddling is energy attaining speed. necessary. howlermag.com

RD IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

U R

S U R F I N G

S T Y L E

A N D

L E V E L

FUNBOARD

LONGBOARD

Sometimes called an egg, the funboard generally comes between 7 and 8 feet long. It has a wider nose, gentle rocker, and the same fin setup as a shortboard. The extra stability of these boards offers a nice easy ride in smaller waves, but they also handle well when it gets a bit larger out there. Funboards are a good transition for a longboarder who wants to move shorter, but keep up an easier paddle, maybe out more towards the shoulder.

Historically, the longboard was the original wave ride. And itâ€™s come a long way since those heavy wooden planks with no fins. Today, logs of 8 feet and longer are the best option for a smaller wave as the extra floatation can help a surfer get into a knee-to-shoulder roller easily. Glide with a single fin or stabilize with a traditional 2 plus 1 setup. The extra volume holds up the front end for noseriding. Be prepared to catch more waves out there, with a lot of graceful style.

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GUN Guns are made for the bravest souls who take on the biggest, most hollow waves. They are longer, with less width, a pointy nose and a pointy tail. For those huge, sometimes vertical drops, take out the gun for double overhead and higher.

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

Even something as simple as a triangle carries with it deep ancient wisdom. 74 | #searchfindhowl| online

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by Lyssa Quallia

GEOMETRY OF LIFE Connecting All in the Universe

MINDFULNESS

verything in the universe is geometric. Whether it be people, plants, animals, stars or planets, the list goes on. Anything in the universe can be measured on a geometric scale, even creation itself. It all stems from an ancient geometric pattern called the Flower Of Life â€” even non-tangible entities like our thoughts, emotions, and music. Many relevant images also originate from this particular pattern, one of them being the Tree of Life. Another is what the ancient Egyptians called the Egg Of Life, consisting of eight circles forming into a cube. That cube represents our physical body, the eight cells that make up our entire being. Living in a country like Costa Rica gives us the chance to see so many different kinds of plants containing this sacred geometry. If you take a moment to look at something as simple as a leaf, you will see the perfectly

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constructed geometry that makes up that leaf. Everything has a pattern, even the shells that come from the ocean. Take the sand dollar for example. Have you ever looked at its pattern? It reflects a universal symbol found at the heart of the Flower Of Life, called The Seed Of Life. Itâ€™s comprised of a group of six circles measured perfectly around one. These seven circles mirror our chakras. It forms a collective upon which the divine infinite creation can be understood. Mother Nature is always giving us hints about the wondrous geometry connecting us all to one another. Even something as simple as a triangle carries with it deep ancient wisdom. Many different cultures and religions associate the triangle with the holy trinity. The trinity represents the union of the mind, body and spirit, therefore giving us the chance to reach enlightenment.

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

HEALTHY HEMP by Valeria Gonzalez

HELP YOURSELF

ooking for a healthy, natural supplement? It doesn't get any better than hemp.

EAT WELL

Hemp is the common term for a variety of plants in the cannabis family. This beneficial and versatile plant can be turned into fibers, oil, wax, resin, cloth, fuel, and a wide range of other useful products. Hemp is one of the most widely utilized and diverse industrial crops in the world. Its fibers are among the longest and most durable of all natural fibers, and it can even be grown without herbicides and pesticides. Hemp seeds are regarded by some to be one of nature’s perfect foods — a superfood. The human dietary benefits have been associated with improved heart health, digestive health, immunity and organ function, as well as lower blood pressure. With a nutrient composition that includes 25% protein, 35% fatty acids and 27% carbohydrates, hemp offers an alternative for meeting your daily nutritional needs, as follows.

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• A complete protein source, with a concentrated balance of proteins, essential fats, vitamins and enzymes, and a relative absence of sugar, starches and saturated fats • High fiber content • An excellent source of omega 3 and omega 6, without containing any of the eight main allergens: milk, egg, fish, crustaceans, wheat, soybeans, peanuts and nuts • Contains gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), a necessary building block for some prostaglandins, hormonelike chemicals in the body that help smooth muscles, control inflammation and regulate body temperature, and are vital to other body functions • Contains all 20 amino acids, including the nine that our bodies cannot produce howlermag.com

Hemp offers an alternative for meeting your daily nutritional needs.

W H ER E TO B UY Hemp seeds are available at various health food stores and supermarkets in the area. HOW TO U S E You can add hemp seeds to smoothies or grind them up and sprinkle them on your yogurt, cereal or others meals. Eat as a snack or mix with sauces or dips. Hemp seeds are also available as hemp nut butter, which you can enjoy in the same ways as peanut or almond butter. Also, much like almond milk, hemp milk can serve as a milk substitute.

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HEMP SEED HUMMUS Hummus is doubly virtuous as both a taste bud-friendly and nutrientdense snack food. It’s a source of protein and various essential vitamins and minerals. Although high in fat, hummus contains mostly the “good” kind — heart-healthy unsaturated fat. Adding chickpeas and hemp seeds to this hummus recipe makes it all the more healthy as a delicious, fingerlicking, snack-a-thon worthy dish. Ingredients • 4 tbsp. hemp seeds • 4 tsp. lemon juice • 3 cups cooked chickpeas or canned garbanzo beans • 2 tbsp. water • 2 cloves of small garlic, minced • 6 tbsp. olive oil • 1 tsp. salt • Paprika, red pepper flakes and chopped parsley or coriander for garnish Method • Grind hemp seeds in a grinder (spice grinder or pestle and mortar). • Place in a food processor along with lemon juice, chickpeas, water, garlic, olive oil and salt. • Blend until smooth. Add water if needed for thinner consistency of hummus. • Serve on a plate or in a bowl, with olive oil drizzled on top and sprinkled garnish ingredients. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 79

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR by Laura Méndez

THE COURAGE TO QUESTION, CHANGE AND GROW M OT I VAT E D B Y A LC O H O L- F R E E C H A L L E N G E

few weeks ago I started a “Free Challenge of No Alcohol for 21 Days” for a very special group of women.

WELLNESS

This came about because while working with this group, I realized how drinking alcohol is so ingrained (very deeply) in our culture. Most people don't even question at all if this social behavior around alcohol is actually serving them. Heck, most people don’t ask questions about most social behaviors that are considered “normal” or “expected.” Most people sheepishly follow the collective norms of society … but that’s a subject for another day. Let’s look at drinking for now, shall we?

‘If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading.’ — Lao Tzu 82 |#searchfindhowl| online

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What if you started to question everything? This is one of the most powerful things you can do. The women in our group started asking questions about drinking, and because of this one simple exercise, the challenge began. We started by asking ourselves seven questions. Go ahead, get yourself a pen and paper and join us in this little exercise. Make a conscious list in response to the following questions. 1. What are short-term benefits I receive by drinking? 2. What are the long-term benefits I receive by drinking? 3. What are the main fears that arise if I think about stopping my drinking habit? 4. What is the worst thing that can happen if I stop drinking? 5. What are the great things that can happen if I stop drinking? 6. Does the habit control me or do I control the habit? 7. Can I go out with friends and simply choose not to drink without having any anxiety? Don't you find it interesting that in most cases, it is so easy to question when someone is offering you the opportunity to stop drinking but not questioning the habit itself ?

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It is well known that this topic touches uncomfortable areas of peopleâ€™s lives that may be considered better Â¨not to look at.Â¨ However, covering old wounds and memories with alcohol is definitely not the healthiest solution. My recommendation: if some resistance comes with the mere idea of stopping this habit, then it is something you definitely need to look at. Be honest #s earchf indh owl

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

by Marian Paniagua

VRKSASANA HEMP

TREE POSE vrks = tree / asana = pose

YOGA WISDOM

rksasana, meaning “tree pose,” is a standing balancing yoga posture. Standing on the floor, your foot is like the root of a tree and your arms are stretching up like branches. Just as the roots of a tree support its trunk and branches, our feet and legs must become the firm base that holds the entire weight of our body and allows balance. By having to stand on one leg, we practice concentration and help stop the thought process in our minds. It’s as if we are preparing the ground to cultivate our inner stillness and silence.

It’s as if we are preparing the ground to cultivate our inner stillness and silence.

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HOW TO DO THE TREE POSE Start standing in tadasana, or mountain pose. Look forward and stare at one point. Breathe deeply and direct attention to your breath. Stand with your feet together, inner ankles and inner knees touching. Bring your hands together in front of your chest in anjali mudra. Move your awareness to the soles of your feet, spreading your toes. Start cultivating a feeling of stillness, grounding and presence. Softly bend your left knee and shift your weight on to your right foot. Place the sole of your left foot on your inner right ankle, side of your shin or inner right thigh. Square both hips forward, maintaining your left knee pointed out to the left. Lengthen your tailbone toward the floor and lift your chest slightly, radiating your heart forward. Bring your gaze directly to a focal point in front of you to help you balance. Reaching equilibrium, raise your palms above your head, clasp them together or keep them separate. howlermag.com

Take five to 10 cleansing breaths, lengthening and expanding on every inhalation and “rooting down” on every exhalation. On your last exhalation, release the left leg back down and the hands together in front of your heart. Press your thumbs gently against your chest, letting you feel your heartbeat and noting every sensation in your body. Repeat on the other side. TO BE MINDFUL Avoid turning out the foot of your standing, supporting leg, to prevent misalignment on the supporting knee and hip. Avoid placing the sole of your foot on the knee of your opposite standing leg. Keep your foot on the inner thigh, shin or ankle of the standing leg instead. BENEFITS OF THE TREE POSE Physically • Strengthens your thighs, calves, ankles and spine. • Stretches your groin and inner thighs, chest and shoulders. • Improves your sense of balance and corrects your posture. • Opens your hips and expand your range of motion. • Mentally: Improves your ability to concentrate and strengthens the power you have to direct your undivided attention to where is wanted. Energetically: Helps activate your base and sacral chakras — “recycling chakras”— changing negative emotional energies into power and light. Keeps your energy body clean, returning to earth any “toxic waste” energy that the body cannot cope with. #s earchf indh owl

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Nicolas Vid

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ea u a n d G

erard Azen

Huacas

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CR BIZ

Flor de CaĂąa is recognized as an industry leader for its sustainable practices. 90 |#searchfindhowl| online

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Flor de Caña Rum

carbon neutral Certified

DOING BUSINESS RIGHT

lor de Caña, a sustainably produced premium rum, has recently achieved carbon neutral certification, further reaffirming the brand’s commitment to sustainability, which includes distilling its rum with 100% renewable energy, planting 50,000 trees annually since 2005 and being Fair Trade certified. The certification was undertaken by Carbon Trust, a global leader in measuring and certifying carbon footprints to the internationally-recognised PAS 2060 standard for carbon neutrality. The standard requires that the entire lifecycle carbon footprint of Flor de Caña is measured and certified, that a carbon management plan is in place to reduce emissions, and that any remaining emissions are offset. “The Carbon Trust is delighted to certify Flor de Caña Rum as carbon neutral and we support the work they are doing to secure ongoing reductions in carbon emissions,” said Silvana Centty, Senior Manager at the Carbon Trust.

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Flor de Caña is recognized as an industry leader for its sustainable practices, being the only spirit in the world to be both carbon neutral and Fair Trade certified. Since 1913, the company school has offered free education to the children of its employees (600 students currently enrolled), and since 1958, the company hospital has offered free medical attention to employees and their families (400+ surgeries and 170 births every year). Flor de Caña has also been the main donor of APROQUEN for nearly 30 years, a non-profit that has provided over 600,000 free medical services to child burn victims and children with cleft lip or palate. ABOUT FLOR DE CAÑA RUM Flor de Caña is a sustainably produced premium rum that’s Carbon Neutral & Fair Trade certified. From an 1890 family estate, it’s distilled with 100% renewable energy and naturally aged without sugar. It was awarded “Best Rum Producer of the Year” by the International Wine and Spirit Competition in 2017. Visit www.flordecana.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 91

CR BIZ by Joanna Blanco

A C H A L L E N G E TO

FEEL GOOD C

ómo están, my fellow entrepreneurs, business owners, working moms and friends?

Before I started to brainstorm about what I was going to write for this Howler article, I searched for my the last three ones: • Emotional Intelligence • Healthy Lifestyle Tips for Entrepreneurs • How to Apply Mindfulness to Business

ENTREPRENEUR CR

I consider these topics especially relevant to the unprecedented times we are living in. I hope you have read them, and if not, this is a good time to do it. So, I realized that I have been very serious about giving the best guidance I can to those who need to embrace their well-being. Today, I sat down and thought, I need people to feel good … to feel fantastic, in fact! So I decided to change the vision and come up with something different for all of you and myself. Let's get ready for a challenge to be AWESOME! Do you know that we can feel good and be good daily? We need to pay attention and insert more habits to help us live a happier life. Those habits that give us a good result are the ones we should keep for the long term. With this intention, let's make our plan.

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Our goal is to feel good, no matter what! And more importantly, it’s to enjoy the journey. Many people think that when they reach their goal, that will be the moment that they will embrace the feeling of satisfaction. But we have been wrong about that along the way. We need to feel good every step of the way, even when we need to take one step back. We learn from good and bad experiences, so even if we need to experience a bit of dissatisfaction, we can have a way to feel good again. Now, to focus on being awesome, I will give you some techniques. 1. Wake up every day and express gratitude. Feel good because you live, breathe, move, have a job, have family and have enough. Take five minutes every morning to express your gratitude to God, the universe, and anyone who is giving you a reason to live. 2. Connect your mind with your body. Walk, run, jog … any kind of exercise. Do anything that makes your body move; use the energy to create more power. Detox your last day's thoughts and bring forth new and positive ones. howlermag.com

3. Set your clock five minutes earlier. This action gives you the advantage to arrive five minutes earlier to any place, appointment or date. Use these five minutes for breathing and enjoying the moment. 4. Get a book about something that you have been curious about for a long time. Allow yourself to learn something different, and that keeps you engaged in it. When you know new things, your brain makes you feel good. 5. Listen to music that you like. Create a new playlist for your workout, for a relaxing time and dancing. Let the music transmit its good vibes. 6. Try essential oils. The sense of smell can detonate emotions. Try citrus oils like orange, grapefruit and lemon, which help you increase energy. And try lavender or chamomile if you want to feel more relaxed. 7. Contact an old friend who always makes you feel good â€” that one who makes you laugh and has a positive influence on you. People with good energy and vibes will energize you positively. 8. Eat vegetables and fruits. They will give you micronutrients essential for efficient body functions. Vitamins, minerals, antioxidants will impulse your body to regenerate and be in balance.

Those habits that give us a good result are the ones we should keep for the long term. #s earchf indh owl

You can choose the techniques that are simpler and more practical for you. The idea is to create new habits that help you to be in a good mood. If you feel good, you will be more focused and more productive. Follow me on Instagram @movimientosattva for more tips like this, recipes, and more. Let's be awesome together. Pura vida! HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 93

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CR BIZ

by Ivan Granados

THE EVICTION PROCESS IN COSTA RICA

ith a substantial number of rental properties in Costa Rica, it is important for property owners who rent their properties out to be aware of the “Leasehold Abbreviated Procedure” (Law 9160), which addresses evictions, the related legal process, and how it is backed up by the courts. This law is aimed at providing protection to all rental property owners.

LEGAL EASE

The Civil Courts, where the leased property is located, maintain jurisdiction over the civil process of an eviction. The parties are: the owner, lessor, possessor in lawful title suing the lessee, subtenant, or transferee (Article 5). Claims can be processed in two specific scenarios: a) Expiration of the contract term (express statement of not renewing the contract). b) Non-payment of rent, public services or the HOA condo fees (Article 1).

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The lawsuit must contain the following (Article 3): 1. Succinct statement of the facts Fundamental laws 2. Rent amount and due date of payment 3. Grounds, or legal reason — only expiration of the term of the contract or non-payment of rent (public services or condo fees) are allowed 4. Details and any available proof of where the property is located There are several steps involved in the eviction process. Step 1: Verification of the lease The lease must be established by, but without limiting to, the contract, previous judicial resolutions, if any, that establish it, rental payment receipts, related confessions, letters or emails between the parties, or any written document where the relationship between the plaintiff/ lessor and the defendant/lessee is established. Documented proof is always required (Article 3). howlermag.com

The defendant/ lessee will be given a period of 15 days to either comply or appeal against the eviction.

Step 4: Deadline for opposition and exceptions The defendant/lessee will be given a period of 15 days to either comply or appeal against the eviction (Article 6). Step 5: In case of acceptance If the defendant/lessee accepts the charges, does not appeal them within the 15-day term, or fails to make any of the lease rent deposits, the appeal will be deemed null and void and the resolution will be executed. Step 6: In case of appeal being upheld

¨However, in the absence of a written contract, such a link can be established by using other types of associated documentation, such as rental payment receipts, letters, emails, etc.…¨. Step 2: Errors in the lawsuit The judge will order that any errors in the lawsuit be rectified within a nonextendable period of five business days (Article 4). Step 3: Initial resolution Once the lawsuit is submitted, the judge will order the eviction in the initial resolution (Article 6). The judge will order the defendant/lessee to continue depositing rents due after the eviction order, and will face immediate eviction in the case of non-compliance. When the return of the property is ordered due to non-payment of subsequent rents, the eviction process will be terminated, and the defendant/ lessee will be ordered to pay court fees and expenses. #s earchf indh owl

If an appeal by the defendant/lessee is upheld, the judge, within a period of 15 calendar days from the date the appeal is presented, will hold an oral hearing governed by the provisions of articles 4 and 5.5 of No. 8624, Judicial Collection Law, and the effects of the initial resolution will be suspended. Step 7: Sentence Once the oral hearing has concluded, the sentence will determine whether the initial resolution is confirmed or revoked. If it is confirmed, the next step will be to proceed with the repossession of the property. If it is dismissed, the lawsuit is rejected and any agreed-upon act of execution or precautionary measure will be revoked. However, the plaintiff/lessor may request, within eight business days from said dismissal, that the process will be converted to an Ordinary Declarative Procedure. Once the Court process conversion is admitted, the preventive measures obtained will be

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preserved, if a guarantee “caucion” has been granted. All the proofs previously carried out will remain valid. Step 8: Repossession Once the sentence is signed, without further processing, the plaintiff/lessor will be granted repossession of the property through the administrative authority (police authority), with application of the provisions regarding the execution of the sentence.

Options for Real Estate Subdivision in Costa Rica

Step 9: Collection of fees and right of retention Once the judgment ruling in favor of the eviction has been declared final, the plaintiff/lessor may require that the defendant/lessee be ordered to pay the unsatisfied rental fees and services and other expenses inherent to the lease that the defendant/lessee would not have covered. To guarantee payment, from the beginning of the Incidental Procedure, the plaintiff/lessor may request that an inventory of goods be made in the leased property. Based on this, he will indicate which of the defendant/lessee’s items should be kept in place as collateral. If the obligation is not satisfied, the plaintiff/lessor may exercise the right of retention of the goods, in accordance with the provisions of the Urban and Suburban Leasing Law and the Civil Code. Due to the complexities of suing for an eviction, it is recommended that you consult with an attorney. We are at your service: info@gmattorneyscr.com

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RE/MAX OCEAN SURF & SUN

Buying or selling a home? Find a RE/MAX Agent In Playa Tamarindo since 1999. Sales of condominiums, homes, lots, fincas and businesses. Playa Tamarindo Monday to Saturday, 9-5 2653-0073 ~ 866.976.8898 www.remax-oceansurf-cr.com

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LetÂ´s celebrate love in Costa Rica...

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Try out our new search bar.

We’ve upgraded HorizonPacificVacations.com to help you find the perfect property for your vacation needs! Our vacation rentals in Tamarindo are as varied as the clients who rent them. From the traveler on a budget to the one with a fondness for luxury, one of our Tamarindo vacation rentals should accommodate you. We have villas in tranquil settings, condominiums with spectacular views of the ocean and surrounding countryside and homes of varied sizes and locations. Some properties have access to a huge tropical pond-like pool while others have small community or private pools. • All Staff in Masks • Flexible Cancelations • Safe Check-in and Check-out •

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Stem cells are being used to treat:

Contact the experts at the Stem Cells Transplant Institute to learn more about stem cell therapy!

∙ Diabetes. ∙ Orthopedic injuries and chronic conditions. ∙ Wounds. ∙ Spinal cord injuries and spinal stenosis. ∙ Traumatic brain injury. ∙ Cardiovascular disease. ∙ Erectile dysfunction. ∙ Some neurodegenerative diseases such as Parkinson’s disease, Alzheimer’s disease and multiple sclerosis.

THE BENEFITS OF STEM CELL THERAPY Stem cells have the ability to grow, repair and regenerate any type of human cell or tissue. Stem cell therapy is a medical procedure that uses stem cells to repair damaged tissue from certain diseases or physical injuries. Stem cell therapy can offer relief to patients suffering from chronic pain, difficult-to-heal injuries, and certain chronic conditions.

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Costa Rica Howler Magazine - November 2020