Costa Rica Guanacaste Regional Print by Howler - January 2021

GUANaCASTE

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h o w l e r m a g . c o m

celebrating 25 years publishing

BY HOWLER s i n c e 1 9 9 6 j a n u a r y 2 0 2 1

REGIONAL

EDITORIAL

H

appy New Year to all

We welcome 2021 with great anticipation for the future.

John B. Quam

Read the full HOWLER

online January issue

here!

Cover photo of Pacific Soul Sailing by Perry Carlile

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Contact US today! (506) 4701-5942 info@howlermag.com Publisher / Editor-in-Chief John B. Quam CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 Sales and Marketing Manager Terry Carlile Graphic Design, Art Director & Rock Star Adriana C. Zerpa The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers.

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UP FRONT

by Mark Sydney

SPORT

Fishing

COVER STORY

A C O S TA R I C A A D V E N T U R E N OT TO B E M I S S E D

A

ttention anglers! Following the gradual easing of international pandemic travel restrictions, November 1, 2020 saw Costa

Rica open up to visitors from most of the world.

Intrepid saltwater anglers especially should rejoice at the perfect timing. Right on the heels of the opening comes Costa Rica’s annual world-class billfish bite. From December through April, the waters of the Pacific, especially off Costa Rica’s Central Pacific coast, teem with marlin and sailfish. Anglers from the four corners of the globe come to catch them.

Seldom if ever are they disappointed.

The country’s two most popular destinations during this period are Los Sueños Marina near Jacó and Pez Vela Marina in Quepos, both with incredible sportfishing fleets. These marinas also host some of the world’s most prestigious billfish tournaments. The acclaimed Los Sueños Signature Triple Crown and the Offshore World Championship at Pez Vela are just two of many.

G UANAC AST E AL SO HAS T E R RIF IC F I SHI NG Tourists vacationing in Guanacaste this season should also enjoy memorable sportfishing adventures.

By heading to Tamarindo, Flamingo, Playas del Coco and resorts in Papagayo, for instance, you can easily make arrangements with experienced local charter captains. There are ALWAYS billfish around, with the added bonus of yellowfin tuna and dorado (mahi-

Marlin, sailfish, sharks, tarpon and roosterfish have to go back into the water.

It’s the law!

mahi).

A word of caution: the seas off the central Pacific coast are flat between December and March. But in Guanacaste, the refreshing Papagayo winds sometimes make it difficult to get offshore. Listen to your captain/guide!

But don’t let the winds deter you from enjoying a unique sportfishing adventure. Inshore fishing is

UP FRONT superb, and the action non-stop. Even if the winds are up, you will be able to hug the shore and target tasty snapper and grouper, tenacious gamefish like roosterfish and jack, along with tripletail and rainbow runner. You might even encounter a small shark.

CATCH- AND-RELEA SE FOR MA RLIN, SA IL FISH AND ROOSTERFISH By the way, Costa Rica sportfishing is totally catch-and-release for certain species. Marlin, sailfish, sharks, tarpon and roosterfish have to go back into the water. It’s the law! But you can keep anything edible you catch, such as tuna, dorado, snapper and grouper.

The mate’s job is to cut or fillet the fish as you

Photos courtesy of Mark Sydney

like for you. Most restaurants in sportfishing destinations will prepare your catch to your preferences, charging a plate price.

G E TTING R E A DY FOR B ILLFISH SE ASO N In anticipation of this year’s sportfishing season, many boats have just gone back into the water after major overhauls. The boat you charter should be in tip-top shape. Captains, mates and skilled crews scraped and painted hulls. Marine mechanics rebuilt and fine-tuned skittish, ornery inboard diesels.

Marine electricians spent time examining and repairing every inch of sportfishing yachts’ intricate and delicate electrical systems.

COVER STORY

So if you haven’t already, think of some fishing while you are visiting Costa Rica this season. It’s an exceptionally rewarding adventure for everyone: men and women, experienced anglers and novices.

It’s fun for couples, and especially for families with kids.

Dip your rods. Tight lines!

TO READ MORE CHARTER FISHING, YACHTING AND OTHER OCEAN ADVENTURES

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ECO CREATURE FEATURE

by Ben Harris

HOPE FOR THE HUMPBACKS

WHALES AND MORE ENDANGERED

T

o swim 16,000 miles is an impressive feat by any standard, but to do this on an empty stomach and while pregnant is truly remarkable.

Granted, the humpback whale has a significant size advantage over humans and most animal species. Nonetheless, for these magnificent creatures to make the round trip every year from Antarctica to the warm waters of Panama and Costa Rica is nothing short of phenomenal.

During the months from June to

October, and sometimes earlier or later, the humpback whales can be seen and heard around the Pacific coasts of Central America. They come for the warm waters and shallow depths, to give birth or to find a mate, or both. There is no food for them here, only safe bays and sheltered reefs.

This is where newborn humpbacks can be released into the shallows and nurse on their mother’s 30% pure-fat milk in relative safety, without fear of attack from predators such as orca whales.

COURTSHIP SONG Beneath the ocean’s surface at this time of year, divers and snorkelers can hear the humpback’s unmistakable song. It is believed that only the males sing as they search and compete to find a mate. They remain solitary most of the time, cruising the coastlines singing their individual ballads.

Scientists have determined that some of the lowest-frequency whale sounds, inaudible to humans, can transmit thousands of miles through the ocean without losing their energy.

P O L A R M I G R AT I O N What we know for certain about these massive mammals, extending 12 meters in length, is where they go when they are not on their summer holidays in the warm waters of the Americas.

They go south — as far south as you can go to the cold extreme of Antarctica, or the last ocean as it is sometimes known.

ECO CREATURE FEATURE

H U M A N T H R E AT S Away from the relative safety of Antarctica, where the only real threat came from Japanese whaling fleets, the humpbacks head north through the obstacle course of human barricades: fishing boats with their mile-long nets, container ships with their housesized propellers and the ever-present hazards of plastic pollution and abandoned lines and nets.

RECOVERY FROM NEAR EXTINCTION

Having once lit lamps all over the world as fuel for the industrial revolution, it was this oil that drove almost all whales to the point of extinction.

Some species, including the humpback, are slowly recovering but are still a long way from replenishing their previous population numbers.

Other endangered whale species are not faring as well, with numbers continuing to decline. That includes the blue whale — the largest mammal on the planet at up to 25 meters long — and the right whale (black whale), so-named for the abundance of oil making it the “right” harpoon target.

Despite a global moratorium on whaling since 1980, some countries are non-compliant.

And besides the other human threats related to fishing lines and nets, container ship transportation and plastic pollution, whales are at risk of food supply depletion as we plunder further and deeper into our ocean ecosystems.

As we run out of fish and head closer to the year 2048, when the United Nations admits our oceans will be empty, we edge bit by bit south.

Gradually more ships are creeping into the last ocean … the ocean we vowed would stay off limits to all: no fishing, no ownership, no borders or flag planting.

This is supposed to be the whales’ safe place for nourishment and rest to continue their migration and life cycle. But humans are taking their krill to create new pills or supplements for needs that are just as easily supplied from plant sources. This is to disregard the needs of the pregnant mother whales that we love to see.

There is hope for the whales if our human world is proactive and unified in protecting these marvellous mammals. Barring a few selfish countries, the common commitment and cooperation among conservation-minded leaders to reverse the damage done has already shown promise in restoring some whale populations.

But they are not out of the woods yet. We must keep working together to keep the last ocean safe for the whales, and all of our oceans alive. That is for the sake of all life on land and out in the blue.

Reinvent Y

www.marvistacr.com US 1-888-414-1836 CR +506 8387 8888

Your Life

MOON PHASES

JAN 6

JANUARY TIDE CHART DAY

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

Fri 01

04:08 8.97 ft

10:21 0.11 ft

16:41 8.57 ft

22:36 0.86 ft

Sat 02

04:49 8.94 ft

11:00 0.08 ft

17:21 8.71 ft

23:19 0.78 ft

Sun 03

05:32 8.80 ft

11:41 0.15 ft

18:03 8.79 ft

Mon 04

00:04 0.77 ft

06:16 8.58 ft

12:23 0.29 ft

18:47 8.80 ft

Tue 05

00:52 0.83 ft

07:04 8.30 ft

13:09 0.50 ft

19:36 8.77 ft

JAN 12

Wed 06

01:45 0.93 ft

07:57 7.99 ft

14:00 0.74 ft

20:29 8.72 ft

New Moon

Thu 07

02:42 1.02 ft

08:56 7.72 ft

14:55 0.98 ft

21:27 8.68 ft

Fri 08

03:44 1.04 ft

10:00 7.57 ft

15:57 1.15 ft

22:29 8.71 ft

Sat 09

04:50 0.94 ft

11:07 7.60 ft

17:03 1.18 ft

23:33 8.83 ft

Sun 10

05:55 0.70 ft

12:13 7.82 ft

18:08 1.07 ft

3rd Quarter

Mon 11

00:35 9.04 ft

06:57 0.36 ft

13:14 8.18 ft

19:11 0.85 ft

HIGH TIDES

JAN 20

Tue 12

01:33 9.27 ft

07:53 0.01 ft

14:11 8.57 ft

20:09 0.60 ft

Wed 13

02:27 9.46 ft

08:45 −0.29 ft

15:03 8.93 ft

21:03 0.39 ft

1st Quarter

Thu 14

03:18 9.54 ft

09:34 −0.47 ft

15:52 9.17 ft

21:53 0.29 ft

Fri 15

04:06 9.48 ft

10:19 −0.48 ft

16:39 9.27 ft

22:41 0.31 ft

Sat 16

04:52 9.27 ft

11:03 −0.34 ft

17:24 9.20 ft

23:27 0.47 ft

Sun 17

05:37 8.92 ft

11:46 −0.04 ft

18:08 9.00 ft

Mon 18

00:11 0.74 ft

06:22 8.46 ft

12:27 0.37 ft

18:52 8.69 ft

Tue 19

00:57 1.08 ft

07:07 7.94 ft

13:09 0.86 ft

19:36 8.32 ft

Wed 20

01:43 1.44 ft

07:54 7.41 ft

13:52 1.36 ft

20:22 7.94 ft

Thu 21

02:32 1.76 ft

08:44 6.94 ft

14:39 1.84 ft

21:12 7.63 ft

Fri 22

03:26 1.99 ft

09:41 6.59 ft

15:31 2.22 ft

22:05 7.42 ft

Sat 23

04:25 2.08 ft

10:43 6.42 ft

16:29 2.44 ft

23:02 7.37 ft

Sun 24

05:26 1.98 ft

11:45 6.48 ft

17:30 2.46 ft

23:59 7.49 ft

Mon 25

06:23 1.71 ft

12:42 6.74 ft

18:28 2.27 ft

JAN 28 Full Moon

SUNRISE JAN 1 JAN 31

6:01 am 6:06 am

Tue 26

00:52 7.75 ft

07:13 1.32 ft

13:32 7.15 ft

19:21 1.91 ft

Wed 27

01:40 8.10 ft

07:59 0.88 ft

14:18 7.63 ft

20:09 1.46 ft

Thu 28

02:25 8.48 ft

08:41 0.44 ft

14:59 8.14 ft

20:54 0.97 ft

Fri 29

03:09 8.82 ft

09:21 0.04 ft

15:39 8.62 ft

21:36 0.52 ft

Sat 30

03:50 9.08 ft

10:00 −0.26 ft

16:19 9.03 ft

22:19 0.16 ft

Sun 31

04:32 9.21 ft

10:39 −0.45 ft

16:59 9.33 ft

23:02 −0.06 ft

SUNSET JAN 1 JAN 31

5:33 pm 5:47 pm

HOWLER MAGAZINE

Huacas

SURF

G

COSTA RICA

SURF SPOT

Quick drops into long, fast barrels are the name of the game.

Photo: Shaka Media

WITCH’S

by Howler Staff

ROCK

WORLD RENOWNED FOR EPIC TUBES

B

acked by the mystical rock formation known as “Roca Bruja,” or Witch’s Rock, this beautiful, secluded, world-class surf spot is legendary. Its epic tubes have been documented in such films as Endless Summer II, which showcased Witch’s Rock to the world. Since then, people from all over have come to enjoy the perfect barrels groomed by offshore winds most of the year.

HOW TO GET THERE Getting to Witch’s Rock is half of the fun.

It's either a short boat ride from Playas del Coco, a longer boat ride from Tamarindo, or a long 4x4 trek via Santa Rosa National Park.

One advantage of taking a boat is the chance to surf some other really fun waves in the area. You will also get to experience Witch's Rock up close and personal as your boat can take you right up to the rock to snap some pictures. You can even climb up the rock and jump off! You can enjoy multiple surf sessions with breaks in between on the boat with your friends, sharing beers, food and good times in between surfing the perfect waves.

With many different boat operators in the area, it's just a matter of asking around to find one. Typically the trip costs in the range of $300 to $400 for the boat. Split between four

or five friends, it's an affordable way to get out on the ocean, surf great waves, and see the coastline.

The other way to get into Witch’s Rock requires a 4x4 vehicle for a drive that takes three or four hours from Tamarindo. You need to bring in all your supplies (and bring them all out again). You access the road through Santa Rosa National Park about 30 minutes north of Liberia. There you need to pay the park entry fee and the camping fee if you plan to stay overnight.

You may have your car searched before entering. They are looking for fishing gear, hunting equipment and perhaps even your ganja stash — so be warned. Also be aware that no animals are allowed in the park.

From there, the drive takes around two hours, on one of the worst roads you will ever experience. Watch out for wildlife: deer, monkeys, and even wildcats can be seen in the park. During the rainy season, it’s recommended to call the national park in advance to check on road conditions, as the rivers can be so high that you can’t get through. Once you arrive at the campground parking lot, you can set up camp or get ready for the hike down the beach to surf.

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT MUSICIAN SPOTLIGHT

Playa Flamingo is where Fatiniza was inspired to write the song Hoy, a Latin GRAMMY 2020 contender.

Photo: Paul German

FATINIZA A WORLD-CLASS ACT

by Terry Carlile

S HINING A G LO BA L S P OT L I G H T ON COS TA RI C A’ S M U S I C SC E N E

W

hen some friends said we were going to hear a great Latino singer at a local restaurant one night in 2019, my first thoughts were, “OK, we’ll see how great.”

The featured entertainer, Fatiniza, was already singing when we arrived. Before we even got to our table, I was captivated by her zesty and energetic performance. I’m not a music critic, but I do recognize someone who can do far more than just sound good and put on a “show.”

For more than a decade, Colombian-born Fatiniza Gamarra has been capturing attention from ever-wider audiences across the world, from Costa Rica and the Mayan Riviera to Singapore and Dubai. Just reading about this vivacious stage and recording sensation will not do justice to her essence. Her passion as an artist comes across in the music videos she has produced. But it’s when you see her perform live behind the mic that you can truly appreciate this dynamo of a musician.

The following are highlights of my recent interview with the wife, mother and full-time singer/songwriter.

One of your songs was up for a Latin GRAMMY award in 2020. Tell us about that.

My last single, Hoy, was entered into the Latin GRAMMY 2020 selection process as Best Song of the Year. Hoy is a song of hope and unity that I wrote at the beginning of the pandemic, when I started to get involved with charity organizations in the Flamingo area, delivering food and cleaning products to those in remote areas most affected. It was a great Latin Grammy nomination run, which exposed the song to all of the Americas but this time did not result in a nomination.

So what was your response to this seemingly disappointing outcome?

We were able to gain so much more attention with the media and expand our fan base. I see everything as building blocks on the journey to accomplish my goals: more Latin American fans and reaching more American fans in Houston, Chicago, Florida and California. I desire to build a quality fan base, not just quantity.

Tell us about your newly released song, Stay Here.

Yes, I am so excited to start the year with this song and share the launch with Howler Magazine.

Watch it first right here! The video was filmed locally in Tamarindo and features Pro Surfer Tomas King. There is also a cameo appearance by surfing legend Robert August. The storyline follows a similar track to the pop culture surfing movie Point Break. I don’t want to give too much away but I am sure that the surfing community and locals will love it. It is a ballad in English and Spanish.

What is your 2021 goal/mission?

I am releasing at least four singles this year: Stay Here, Ojos Café, Apostándo and Hey. They are ready to go. I want to keep building a quality fan base. I’ll be expanding my exposure in Costa Rica first, by taking my music to them. This means getting on the road as soon as we can, which is exciting, and then to the rest of the Americas and beyond. I’ll continue to collaborate and create a music scene that allows people from all over to know there are talented artists in Costa Rica.

How do you like to interact with other artists?

I like to collaborate with local musicians.

Working with those who may just be beginning to already accomplish some measure of success. It is a tough business and finding people who are sincerely loving this art form is essential to me. My goal is to create a music scene that is recognized as a ‘mustsee’ while attracting people to Costa Rica. My last release in 2020 is with Stephanie Waltrip from Tamarindo. It’s about collaboration, not competition, for me.

What wisdom would you offer that young Costa Rican who is thinking about singing?

Launch of Confusion

MUSICIAN SPOTLIGHT

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

Just do it! Keep in mind that it is not only about singing; you are choosing a career.

What’s your goal? Be an artist, want to be famous, want money? These things will lead you down different paths.

Focus on what you want and don’t get led away from your goals by people who would bend you to their goals. Get guidance and surround yourself with good people. I am represented in Costa Rica by Studio ‘71, a new production company that wants to guide new talent and give them exposure and a platform to be heard. If this speaks directly to you, get in touch with Studio ’71!

Launch of Confusion

Performing Double Decker

When I see them singing, I know they love my music and that is the biggest thing for me.

Performing live at Alpha Club Dubai

PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

by Mary Byerly

SEVA PART OF

YOGA TRADITION

CO MPAS S I ONATE S ERV I CE P UR I F I ES O UR H E ART

W

hat do I do with my free time?

It’s something most people wonder occasionally, even the busiest and most fulfilled among us. And it’s just as true for many of us living here in Costa Rica, where there are always beautiful beaches to walk on, great waves to ride, and the abundance of nature to enjoy. There is also no shortage of options for learning and practising yoga!

YOGA WISDOM

In addition, however, the desire to be part of our local community calls out to many of us. It is actually a part of the yoga tradition as well. The concept of seva is considered as much a part of our practice as are the asanas, or postures.

Seva comes from two root words of Sanskrit: saha (“with that”), and eva “too”). The word seva means “together with.” It describes actions that uplift us through an understanding of the needs of others, based on togetherness and integration. And that does not just mean coming into a community and deciding what is best for its members based on our opinions. Seva is an expression of compassion.

The word seva means “together with.”

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