Howler Magazine Costa Rica - September/October 2019

HOWLER C o s ta R i c a Li fest yle, T ravel & Adve nture

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since 1996

Exonerated Captain Paul Watson

SEA SHEPHERD Renews Work with MINAE to Clean Up Cocos Island

Free copy Sept/OCT 2019

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From the Organizing Committee of GUANACASTE CLASSIC We want to thank you for joining us at the 17th EDITION of this great event

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EDITORIAL

Be Part of the Solution

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little over two years ago, we launched a series of Howler articles with the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society related to endangered ocean life around the world. In particular, we highlighted the obstacles to Sea Shepherd’s activism in Costa Rica against shark finning and other illegal fishing activities.

In response to these articles, Howler received many comments and concerns. Various horror stories about illegal fishing remain etched in my thoughts. For our magazine to cast an unfavorable spotlight on the Costa Rican fishing authorities was viewed by some as an attack. Well, it was!

It is our duty to not only showcase this country’s good news stories but also issues that affect us in detrimental ways. Costa Rica rightfully touts its eco-conscious achievements on many fronts to the world. But at the same time, blind eyes are turned to the stripping of fish from our oceans and their endangered cleaners, the sharks.

Certain recent developments on the Sea Shepherd horizon, highlighted in this magazine issue, have brightened our outlook. That is not to say that our previous articles are any less relevant, and we encourage readers to browse through howlermag.org archives.

Some of our firsthand research for the 2017 articles took place on board the MV John Paul Dejoria, anchored just off the coast of Puntarenas at the time. As part of the Sea Shepherd’s fleet of marine patrol vessels, this ship is named for the benefactor who donated it to help advance progress in restoring ocean ecosystems. The impact of Sea Shepherd campaigns to make our world more livable, one protected ocean spot at a time, cannot be overstated.

Our interactions with ship crew members affirmed how dedicated they are to saving marine wildlife from illegal fishing. At the same time, they have taken on other formidable causes in the name of ocean conservation, notably the garbage dumps that are afloat and washing up on coastal shores everywhere.

We cannot live in a world without a healthy ocean. Water is our life; without it we die. The amount of trash in the ocean is abhorrent and puts the world’s marine population at risk as victims of human thoughtlessness.

Almost daily, I see pictures of fish, whales, turtles and many other sea creatures that have ingested our garbage and died, often after unimaginable suffering. These images are deeply disturbing.

While championing these issues with a sense of short-term urgency, Sea Shepherd also devotes significant time and resources educating future generations to care for ocean life. The message for youth is that everyone can make a difference within any community, no matter how small.

Earlier this year, Costa Rica’s Minister of Environment and Energy,

Carlos Manuel Rodríguez, initiated steps to have the courts dismiss longstanding criminal charges against the Sea Shepherd’s founder, Captain Paul Watson. Minister Rodríguez also reached out to the Sea Shepherd’s Costa Rican contingent to work with the government in a renewed partnership to protect the country’s treasured marine life. A massive-scale cleanup of Cocos Island in March was an impressive success story.

We applaud the forward-thinking initiative of Minister Carlos in taking the reins to reinforce Costa Rica’s global position as an ecological gem.

Consistent with his passion for the environment, this was a motivating factor in embracing his current portfolio.

At the community level, countless groups of volunteers work tirelessly to keep our beaches clean and promote recycling. Tamarindo’s Clean Wave project and Surfriders Foundation chapter, the Flamingo Beach Association and the Eco-Coco group in Playas del Coco are just a few examples. The dedication of these people to daunting goals plays a big part in making life in Costa Rica better for everyone.

Please do your part. Whenever you visit a beach or mountain area, pick up items that don’t belong in our natural environment and dispose of them properly. Be part of the solution and make a difference.

HOWLER John B. Quam

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HOWLER T r o o p

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owler is pleased to feature advice from global financial consultant Luigi Wewege in this issue of our CR Biz flip magazine. Specifically, you’ll learn why Belize has become a preferred banking location for savvy investors around the world seeking security, stability and asset diversification opportunities. Wewege draws on his expertise and experience helping would-be clients gain knowledge and confidence to choose offshore banking solutions that meet their needs.

Luigi Weweg is the Senior Vice President of Caye International Bank, recently recognized by Wealth & Finance INTL as the”‘Best Offshore Private Bank in Latin America.” He is also the Principal of Palmetto Global Ventures, a financial consultancy firm focused on digital banking, an instructor at the FinTech School and a speaker at the Silicon Valley Innovation Centre. Wewege is the published author of The Digital Banking Revolution and has co-authored economic research presented before the U.S. Congress. He holds an Italian MBA with a major in International Business, as well as a BSBA with a triple major in Finance, International Business, and Management cum laude from the University of Missouri-St. Louis.

WRITERS Sylvia Barreto Benites. Owner of Spanish for Expats, a tutoring and translation service. spanishforexpats23@gmail.com

Jim Parisi. Former owner of Jaime Peligro Bookstore, now called "Bookstore of the Waves". Tamarindo resident for 16 years. jaimepeligro123@hotmail.com

Joanna Blanco. An integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients embrace wellness in five inter-connected areas of life: relationships, livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet.

Jenn Parker. An avid writer, traveler, and nature lover on a mission to surf the earth and share her stories.

Alei Burns. The Bookstore of the Waves owner, New York-raised librarian, passionate book and surf lover.

Nicole Rangel. Freelance writer and editor. Making memories forever with her family. nicole.rangel@gmail

Nick Dauk. Writer, rocker and traveler based in Orlando, Florida, seeking out stories from every corner of the globe. Nick.Dauk@yahoo.com

Jose Serendero. Chilean-born environmental communicator and activist, living in Costa Rica for over 35 years. Director and spokesman, Sea Shepherd Costa Rica.

Mary Demeter. Owner of Consider it Done, providing business consulting and virtual assistance to businesses worldwide. mdemeter.cid@gmail.com www.consideritdonetime.com Ellen Zoe Golden. Former entertainment biz PR flack, now living the dream as a travel agent and journalist in Tamarindo.

Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys.

He specializes in real estate and corporate law. igranados@gmattorneyscr.com Jodee Lynette. Owner of a small local hotel has more than 25 years of experience with rental properties and vacation rentals in the U.S. Tu-Can Property Management SRL 2654-5519 or 8854-4947, admin@tu-canpropertymanagementcr.com Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations.

Offering sound journeys, breath work experiences, cacao ceremonies and other activities. hello@puravidavibrations.com

Michael Portman. Small business owner in Austin, Texas, where he lives with his family.

Patricia Sterman. Argentinian fashion design graduate, living in Costa Rica for 20 years. Owner of Azul Profundo Boutique, jewelry manufacturer and co-founder of SalveMonos animal protection group.

. White. Chases the sun from Michigan Rachel Cherry to Costa Rica with her four children and husband.

She is a contributor to Fodor’s Guide to Costa Rica, Michigan HOME & Lifestyle and online. She is working on a novel.

PHOTOGRAPHY Robert Ledbetter.

Tony Roberts. Lifelong surfer, skater, artist, musician, photographer and filmmaker. Go-to guy for tourist surfers in Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Panama and the Caribbean with his company Real Surf Trips. tr@tonyrobertsphoto.com or realsurftrips.com

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Sept / Oct 2019 Vol. 24 No. 8 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam C r e at i v e D i r e c t o r Martin Svoboda BUSINESS DEVELOpmENT Martin Svoboda - Managing Partner E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Debbie Bride - Copy Editor Graphic Design Cover Photos: Courtesy of Sea Shepherd Debbie Bride - Design Consultant M. Alauddin - Print Specialist O p e r at i o n s Nikki Durling - Office Manager Sales Terry Carlile - Sales Consultant Pamela Lewis - Sales Consultant Kelly Norris - Jacó Sales Consultant Eugenia Bravo - Spanish Language Sales Consultant C o n ta c t

John Quam - Managing Partner headmonkey@howlermag.com Martin Svoboda - Managing Partner martin@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: ads@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 US Office: (720) 507-7596 (leave message) Howler Magazine Costa Rica @thehowlermag @howlermagazine The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com.

The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements.

Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services.

Copyright © 2019 howlermag.com The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A.

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HOWLER

CO N T E N T S

Cocos Clean-Up Cover Story

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Up Front

4 - Editorial 6 - Contributors and Howler Troop 10 - Community Services 12 - Cover Story: Cleaning up Cocos Island 18 - Cover Series: Captain Paul Watson Exonerated 20 - Cover Series: Saving One Sea Spot at a Time

18 Travel & Adventure 22 - Featured Locale: La Carolina Lodge 26 - Creature Feature: A Playground for Whales 28 - Must Do: Stop and Enjoy Mamón Chino Season

30 Surfing Costa Rica 30 - Sept/Oct: Moon, Sunset and Sunrise Chart 31 - September Tide Chart 32 - October Tide Chart 34 - Surf Profile: The Resano Sisters 36 - Surf 101: More To Learn Than Just Popping Up

La Carolina Lodge Featured Locale

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40 ACE - Arts Culture Entertainment 40 - ACE Feature: Welcome to PINCEL 42 - Urban Tourism: Atenas – Best of Both Worlds

44 Pura Vida - Living Costa Rica 44 - Wellness: The Keto Craze 46 - CR Life: A Year Without Illusions 48 - Spanish: Shortcuts to Speaking Spanish 50 - Fashion Flash: Vacation Inspiration

Atenas

Urban Tourism

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GOOD TO KNOW BEFORE AN EMERGENCY

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eeking help during an emergency in Costa Rica is not always as simple as it may seem. The easy part is knowing you can call 911.

But for many, the difficult part is not being prepared if the agent who answers does not speak English. Even if you know some Spanish, remembering it will be a challenge if you are in shock.

Having these details ready beforehand could make a critical difference in ensuring your situation is clearly understood and help arrives as soon as possible.

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Know your phone number and directions to your home / current location in Spanish. Write this information down — making sure to spell out the numbers in words — and keep it handy or on your phone.

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Know your geographic location. Costa Rica’s 911 operators are based in San José so they have no idea where you are. The operator will ask you which region / province you are in, which canton (county) and which town. This information will be fed into the operator’s own computer to access the nearest local police and fire department.

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Know your emergency. Take a moment to formulate it in Spanish. Punch the English words into a translating app and write down the words and phrases. Include any other pertinent information you can think of before you call 911.

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EMERGENCY VOCABULARY Help — Auxilio / ayuda I need help — Necesito ayuda I have an emergency — Tengo una emergencia I need a doctor — Necesito un medico Car accident — Un accidente de automovil Police — Policia Firemen — Bomberos Hospital — Hospital Emergency — Emergencia Ambulance — Ambulancia A heart attack — Un infarto A fall — Una caida A fire — Un incendio A robbery — Una asalto A police report — Denuncia Drowned — Ahogado I lost my passport — Perdi mi pasaporte My passport was stolen — Me robaron el pasaporte I am lost — Estoy perdido/a A bite — Una mordida A snake bite — Picadura de serpiente Anti-venom — Antiofidico

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COVER STORY

Cocos Cleanup

Sea Shepherd Resumes MINAE Partnership

by Jorge Serendero

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massive undertaking to remove 20 years’ worth of eco-waste from Cocos Island marks a turning point in Costa Rica’s disrupted relationship with the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society during much of the same time period.

By invitation of the Ministry of Environment (MINAE), Sea Shepherd recently cleared away some 15 tons of solid waste that had accumulated in Costa Rica’s largest and remotest national park site, about 550 kilometers southwest off the Pacific coast mainland. This renewed public-private

partnership to protect Cocos Island extends to Sea Shepherd’s ongoing presence in the area to document illegal fishing activities and take legal action against poaching vessels.

“We will continue to work with organizations like Sea Shepherd,” said Carlos Manuel Rodríguez, Costa Rica’s Minister of the Environment. “They have the passion, commitment, science and technology that complement what we do in this ministry. It is a ‘double-gain’ situation that makes sustainable and lasting over time the actions we can develop together.” howlermag.com

Photos courtesy of Sea Shepherd

Team effort with one purpose

The formidable Cocos cleanup operation began on March 23, 2019, when the newest Sea Shepherd vessel, the M/V White Holly on its first Costa Rican voyage, reached the island. The Sea Shepherd volunteers on board were joined by other volunteers, national park rangers and firemen and MINAE representatives. They set out to prove that no obstacle is insurmountable when steadfast wills and capable hands come together with a common purpose.

Diligent planning and preparations beforehand had taken into account the daunting technical and logistical challenges of removing such an immense volume of waste.

Mobilizing the heavy loads required an adequate load boat

with a crane to transfer the garbage from the island, in the absence of a mooring dock. Sufficient volunteers had to be organized, and catering services to feed them. Mainland arrangements were also needed to distribute the waste to recycling points, and to coordinate all other actions in the collection and disposal process.

Minister Rodríguez conveyed appreciation for the magnitude of what was accomplished: “Removing waste from a national park can be considered something ordinary, but doing it from Cocos Island — one of the most remote and best preserved wild sites of the planet — is an achievement that makes us very proud and, above all, very grateful.”

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COVER STORY

Deadly hazard repurposed for good

‘Sea Shepherd’s commitment to protect sharks and their habitats is once again reinforced through this mission.’

Among other refuse, much of the waste removed from Cocos consisted of illegal shark finning long-lines as well as hooks and buoys confiscated by national park rangers on site.

Fortunately, the 2,300 miles of nylon long-lines collected can now be put to good use. Delivery to the eco-friendly textile manufacturer Aquafil, for upcycling into fabric, ensures this material will never kill marine wildlife again.

“Plastics and marine debris are a serious threat to marine ecosystems,” said Captain Paul Watson, Sea Shepherd founder. “To be able to remove illegal nylon fishing gear from such a pristine environment and repurpose the material, ensuring it will not be used to kill sharks again, is another step in protecting sharks and the eastern tropical Pacific marine environment, which Cocos is part of. This is a very important area of the world for sharks and Sea Shepherd’s commitment to protect sharks and their habitats is once again reinforced through this mission.”

Sea Shepherd’s long-standing activism against marine debris in remote islands includes various microplastics research projects. In 2018, the organization boosted a plastic and marine debris clean up effort at Fanning Atoll, a remote central Pacific coral reef belonging to the country of Kiribati.

Globally important marine ecosystem

For its importance as a marine ecosystem, Cocos Island is a world heritage site of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). Together

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with other UNESCO locales in Colombia, Ecuador and Panama, it’s part of the ocean conservation network known as the Eastern Tropical Pacific Marine Corridor. The so-called “thermal convection dome” vicinity north of Cocos Island is where major submarine cold currents of the Pacific emerge to meet trade winds. This serves as a nursery haven, feeding about 7 percent of the world’s biodiversity of marine species on their migration path.

Sea Shepherd’s Cocos connection dates back to 2001, when it played a key role in bringing illegal longline fishing operators to justice. In cooperation with Cocos park rangers, those on board a Sea Shepherd patrol vessel helped seize the Ecuadorian longliner San José and turn it over for Costa Rican court prosecution. It became the country’s first poaching vessel court case of its kind. The conviction was based on filmed evidence, statements and GPS location data provided by the conservation society.

Renewed partnership

Subsequently, a 2002 poaching intervention

by Sea Shepherd in a different jurisdiction triggered a protracted legal dispute between Costa Rican authorities and Captain Paul Watson. The organization’s marine protection efforts at Cocos Island and other endangered waters were hampered as a result.

On March 12, 2019, a criminal appeals court ruling in Captain Watson’s favor brought closure to the case and set the tone for Sea Shepherd’s renewed partnership with Costa Rica. (See “Rising Above the Undertow” on page 18.)

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COVER STORY Meanwhile, with its intercept vessel M/V Brigitte Bardot, Sea Shepherd has been patrolling the offshore tropical Pacific waters near Cocos, Galapagos and other UNESCO sites for the past six months. As part of Operation Mamacocha, its mission is to protect migrating sharks that transit in between these prolific island systems. When illegal fishing fleets trespass the marineprotected boundaries to catch migrating sharks, Sea Shepherd is documenting their activities and taking legal action against them.

Award Nominee

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ocos Island National Park has been nominated for the 2019 Global Ocean Refuge Award (GLORES), an honor bestowed annually by the Marine Conservation Institute. The announcement of winners in October follows deliberations by a scientific committee.

As one of six international candidates this year, Costa Rica’s remote offshore ecosystem is being evaluated according to science-based criteria for conservation effectiveness. Global Ocean Refuge status is awarded to marine-protected areas demonstrating strong, sustainable safeguards for biodiversity and resilience to climate change.

As quoted in a Costa Rica Star news report on July 7, Carlos Manuel Rodríguez, Minister of Environment and Energy, said the nomination reflects well on public-private efforts to make sustainable use of Costa Rica’s natural resources.

“Cocos Island National Park, guarantees Costa Ricans and the world, the conservation of a natural sanctuary of marine and land species, which represents a key site for the development of science,” he said.

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COVER STORY SERIES

Rising Above the Undertow Captain Paul Watson’s Renewed Relationship With Costa Rica

by Nick Dauk

‘You can stop an individual, you can shut down an organization, but you can’t stop a movement.’

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aptain Paul Watson regards his past troubles in Costa Rica to be all water under the bridge now.

With forgiveness absent of resentment or contempt, the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society founder is excited to rebuild his relationship with the Costa Rican government.

“It’s been a long ordeal, but I really have a lot of faith in this new government,” Captain Watson said in a recent Howler interview.

“Whatever comes at us, let’s make it work for us."

As always, his hope is to enhance Sea Shepherd’s efforts in protecting and preserving the country’s marine life. Last March, the criminal appeals court officially dropped all charges against Captain Watson, turning the tide on two decades of legal disputes resulting in his arrest and subsequent escape while maintaining his innocence.

An ocean of obstacles

Captain Watson’s personal philosophy was put to the test as he endured almost 20 years of legal hurdles that jeopardized not only his own freedom, but the effectiveness of Sea Shepherd’s

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actions in Costa Rica.

In 2001, Captain Watson led his crew towards the shores of Cocos Island National Park where they encountered an Ecuadorian ship brutally slaughtering sharks. Watson and crew aided in the arrest of what would be the first illegal fishing vessel confiscated by the Costa Rican court. Sea Shepherd's new partnership with the Costa Rican Ministry of the Environment was suddenly severed a year later when Watson, authorized by the Guatemalan government, apprehended a Costa Rican poaching vessel that was engaging in illegal activities within Guatemalan waters.

Fabricated charges filed against Captain Watson were dismissed by Costa Rican courts in 2002. But 10 years later he was arrested in Germany on unrelated charges under a Japanese extradition warrant. Coupled with a new modified extradition request from Costa Rica for the 2002 incident, Watson fled Germany and headed for the sea, eventually seeking asylum in France. He was placed on Interpol’s Red List and is still sought by Japanese officials today.

The Red Notices Watson received were a howlermag.com

blessing in disguise, personally and professionally. Out of his asylum came a marriage and child, while the global news coverage of his Red Notice took Sea Shepherd to new heights of recognition. The society now works with 50 countries around the world and is stronger than ever.

“You can stop an individual, you can shut down an organization, but you can’t stop a movement,” Watson said. “That’s what we are now.”

This renewed relationship between Costa Rican officials and Sea Shepherd, advocated by the Ministry of the Environment, does more than exonerate one man for his alleged crimes. It bolsters support for the preservation and protection of marine life across the globe.

Dangers above, damages beneath

“The ocean is under continuous assault,” Captain Watson stated, referring not only to marine life along Costa Rica’s shores but to our planet’s biodiversity being in a constant state of emergency.

“There are 10 million fishing boats out on the high seas — 4 million of them are illegal.”

These illegal acts, ranging from poaching to polluting, are having a destructive impact on marine ecosystems. Overfishing has consequences for every living organism, both below and above the water’s surface.

Captain Lockhart MacLean, one of Sea Shepherd’s longest-serving crew members, concurs.

“We are post-sustainability in 2019,“ he told the Howler. “We need to look at regeneration as the next stage of preserving ocean life.”

Within the ocean, explained Captain MacLean, corridors linked to one another enable biodiversity to flourish and spread to all parts of the globe. Each corridor depends on those surrounding it. Without linkage, these vital spaces cannot sustain biodiversity.

“They will fail unless the marine corridors that connect them are all patrolled and protected,” Captain MacLean concluded.

“If the oceans die, we all die,” Captain Watson put it plainly.

“Most people aren’t aware that phytoplankton needs protection. It’s the foundation for life on the planet.

If it disappears tomorrow, we lose 70 percent of our oxygen supply.”

Costa Rica’s role in saving our ocean

Recently, Sea Shepherd joined park rangers and Costa Rica’s Ministry of the Environment to remove over 30 tons of illegal fishing gear, trash, and marine debris from the Cocos Island World Heritage Site. (Learn more in the Howler Cover Story on page 12.) This endeavor is the latest stage in Operation Treasured Isle, a campaign targeting 2,400 nautical miles between Baja California and Peru. The islands and corridors stretched across the Eastern Tropical Pacific include Cocos Island, one of the five most biodiverse regions in the world.

“What you see now diving in Cocos is amazing,” Captain Watson said, “but compared to what it was like in the ‘80s and ‘90s, it has diminished. I don’t want to see that as a continuous pattern, and that’s a real possibility.”

By shielding this area from poaching vessels and strengthening shore-based efforts to ban the sale of illegally caught marine life, the biodiversity within Cocos Island and the rest of the corridor stands a chance of surviving.

“To me, Cocos Island is the absolute perfect example of what an exotic tropical island should be,” Captain Watson said. “I can’t think of any place in the world more beautiful than that island, and most importantly, all the life that’s beneath the waves.”

Captain Watson admires the progress made by the island’s park rangers over the years, with limited resources. “Cocos Island is the crown jewel of Costa Rica and they’re the ones that are protecting it.”

“It’s heartwarming that we can be back here,” Captain MacLean echoes. “One of the world’s most pristine islands should not be covered in long lines.”

Photos courtesy of Sea Shepherd

Captain Lockhart MacLean and Captain Paul Watson

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Hope for Our Blue Heart

One sea spot at a time, we can save the planet

by Jenn Parker

‘No water, no life.

No blue, no green.’

I

magine boating, diving, or surfing in Costa Rica’s warm tropical waters and not seeing a single sign of marine wildlife: no rays jumping, no humpback whales breaching, no colorful coral dwellers peeking out as you snorkel by. Imagine the sky without sea birds and the surface of the ocean free of sea turtles popping their heads out for a quick breath.

Imagine the eeriness of swimming in an ocean utterly void of life..

Now, imagine if you had to be the one to tell future generations that there were once 100-foot-long whales, sharks with heads shaped like hammers, long needle-like fish that could fly and pelicans that surfed.

Over the past century, we have collectively managed to decimate formerly thriving populations of sharks and other pelagic fish, whales and dozens of other marine mammals, sea turtles, and countless other ocean-dwelling species that both humans and other wildlife and ecosystems depend upon. Through a combination of unsustainable fishing practices, the horrific shark fin industry, habitat destruction, pollution, the plastic epidemic and climate change, our oceans are not as indestructible as they were once believed to be.

All life is at stake

Whether you live by the ocean or not, whether you visit seashores during summertime or not, every one of us is dependent on its survival and wellbeing. Throughout human history, the ocean has provided us with an abundance of food and other resources. But more importantly, it is the driving force behind

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the earth’s weather patterns, a regulator of land temperatures, a vital collector of carbon and a massive producer of oxygen.

“No water, no life. No blue, no green.” These famous words spoken by marine conservation activist Dr. Sylvia Earle should be our collective mantra and motivation to protect what so many of us love, and all of us need. Not to mention, it is not the fault of the sharks, manta rays or tiny plankton that the ocean is dying. It is our fault and our responsibility to fix.

In 2009, Dr. Sylvia Earle won the prestigious TED Prize. It was then that she conveyed her wish for humankind to “use all means at [our] disposal — films, expeditions, the web, new submarines — to create a campaign to ignite public support for a global network of marine protected areas, Hope Spots, large enough to save and restore the blue heart of the planet.”

For the past 50 years, Earle has been the voice of our seas, working tirelessly to help save and restore the planet’s blue heart. At the time of her TED Talk in 2009, only 1 percent of the world’s oceans were protected. As of 2016, that number has increased to 4 percent; it’s an improvement but not nearly enough.

Intensive global collaboration

Fortunately, Mission Blue, founded by Earle, is collaborating with hundreds of different marine conservation organizations, scientists, policymakers and ocean-lovers alike to designate Hope Spots around the globe. In fact, anyone can nominate a Hope Spot. The goal is to have 30 percent of the ocean protected by 2030.

Through rigorous research and expeditions, howlermag.com

COVER STORY SERIES

Hope Spots, according to Mission Blue, are chosen and designated based on: • A special abundance or diversity of species, habitats, or ecosystems • Particular populations of rare, threatened, or endemic species • A site with potential to reverse damage from negative human impacts • The presence of natural processes such as major migration corridors or spawning grounds • Significant historical, cultural, or spiritual values • Particular economic importance to the community More than 100 Hope Spots worldwide now include a recently added location in Costa Rica’s Golfo Dulce. Costa Rica was also involved in the protection of the Central American Dome, another Hope Spot 300 miles off the north Pacific coast between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. MarViva Foundation and Misión Tiburón, along with several other organizations in Costa Rica, played an integral part in ensuring that these two Hope Spots were nominated and established.

The Central American Dome is a nutrient-dense area in the high seas, continuously changing its position and size depending on the direction of winds and strong ocean currents. It is a crucial feeding ground in the eastern Pacific for the highly endangered leatherback sea turtle and blue whale, as well as many different species of sharks, manta rays, billfish, tuna, sardines and anchovies.

Inspiring initiative

Because of the Central American Dome’s remote and ever-changing coordinates, protecting this Hope Spot relies on the cooperation of several countries and governments. It is inspiring what can be accomplished when we work together.

In 2014, National Geographic, MarViva Foundation, Mission Blue, Lighthawk and The Leatherback Trust joined forces to document an awarenessraising expedition to the Central American Dome. Similarly, Misión Tiburón had been conducting research, collecting valuable data, promoting educational campaigns and advocating for the protection of Golfo Dulce in southern Costa Rica.

Vulnerable marine species

“Golfo Dulce is a proven pupping and nursery grounds for the endangered scalloped hammerhead shark. According to Mission Blue, evidence supports a direct “biological connection between the scalloped hammerhead sharks in this critical coastal habitat and the surrounding waters of Isla del Coco.” (See the Howler Cover Story on page 12 and related Sea Shepherd update on page 18.)

Before the official protection of Golfo Dulce and its recognition as a Hope Spot this year, juvenile scalloped hammerhead sharks, which are too small to be illegally harvested for their fins, were caught and used as bait to attract larger sharks.

Golfo Dulce is also home to the green sea turtle, humpback whales, sperm whales, bottlenose dolphin, manta rays and hundreds of other species of sharks and fish.

Everything and everyone is connected. What we do on land affects the sea and vice versa. When apex predators like sharks are removed, and bottom-of-the-food-chain species like plankton, krill and sardines are gone, the entire ocean food chain will collapse.

Hope Spots help to ensure that this doesn’t happen. So, naturally, the more Hope Spots that can be established, the more hope there is that the ocean will heal and thrive once again as it did and is meant to.

No blue, no you!

Noble alliances like Mission Blue, MarViva Foundation, Misión Tiburón, The Leatherback Trust, National Geographic, High Sea Alliance, and the International Union for Conservation of Nature are doing extraordinary things to protect the world’s “blue heart.” However, time is of the essence. To ensure we don’t experience what an ocean devoid of life is like, we must all get on board now. The call to action is simple, but urgent: No blue, no you!

Now, imagine an ocean setting where you watch sea turtles swimming by, iridescent fish schooling around, a dolphin dancing in the distance and countless sea birds effortlessly gliding on the airwaves. Imagine an ocean with more fish than plastic, with a healthy population of sharks to keep our blue heart in rhythm, and a sense that all is right because we fixed what we have long wronged. This reality doesn’t have to be the stuff of our imaginations.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 21

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

FEATURED LOCALE

The author with the day’s smallest catch

From the moment we stepped into our room, I could tell this would be no ordinary stay.

Where is it?

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howlermag.com

La Carolina Lodge

Wood-Fired Heaven in the Mountains Story and photos by Michael Portman

L

ike most typical tourists in Costa Rica, I think of myself as anything but typical. I don’t do all-inclusive trip packages, preferring to travel by the seat of my swim trunks. The itineraries I put together are just offthe-grid enough to keep me bumping into thrill seekers from the same casting call: “Stranger Things,” it seems.

Truth is, as the father of two boys, ages 10 and 12, some of the “je ne sais kid” has been lost to being a parent.

So as we raced from Monteverde to arrive at La Carolina Lodge in time for the farm-to-table lunch, I still judged this artisanal nomenclature with air quotes, try as I might to switch out of my 4WD dad mindset.

“Let’s just park,” I told my wife, pulling into the property.

Now off the road to Tenorio Volcano, we followed a Walden-like path, thinking it would diverge from the river’s edge. It did not.

La Carolina’s property, established in 1998, accommodates eight separate villas, spread across 175 acres wedged between the Chimurria and Achiote rivers. The drive from Liberia airport takes less than 90 minutes.

Pleasant surprises await

“Glamping” this wasn’t. From the moment we stepped into our room, I could tell this would be no ordinary stay. Maybe it was the mosquito nets we wouldn’t need over the beds, or the extra rollaway for my boys I would not have to ask for here as I had at the other places we stayed. But most likely it was the wood-fired hot tub already glowing off the back deck, hand stoked by a welcoming staff member named Juan.

As he stacked a half-cord for us con mucho gusto, I struck up a conversation with Juan, who told me he had lived and worked at La Carolina Lodge for 15 years. Some of his co-workers have been there just as long. There was something sweet in the air that was more than the smell of burning laurel.

Something for everyone

When guests need a break from soaking in the hot tub, La Carolina offers endless ways for everyone to enjoy their time.

There are cows that need milking — my kids’ new favorite hobby.

Open-air weight and yoga facilities are available to guests in a riverside hut (I managed one curl and deep breath).

The self-guided hike we took past the stables was delightful, with abundant sightings for birders and wildlife enthusiasts. We never saw an anteater that was on our wish list, but plenty of parrots and sloths.

A 135-acre property adjacent to the lodge has a lake and a boat for people wanting to land fish bigger than the little guy I was happy to get just steps from my highly glorified hut.

Later, we joined the property guide and “man of men,” Alejandro, for a family horseback ride costing just $18 per person. The mostly gentle walk, and occasional trot, took us through an 85-acre section of the vast property dedicated to pastoral farmland, citrus groves and vegetable gardens.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Aural welcome

The nearby sound of roaring rivers was an aural welcome for us, coming from a place where people spend $300 on noisecanceling headphones. According to Alejandro, the horses at La Carolina are automatico. That means they follow their trail with little rein directive, instead herded gently along the way by house dog Rocky.

On our return ride back to the stable, the caballos (horses) knew they’d get their oats afterward, and I knew I’d be getting back in that hot tub.

But what about the kids?

As if sent from above, the children of other lodge guests and employees’ kids living at the lodge appeared. Jungle games quickly broke out. Tree climbing ensued, as did scar comparisons. My mission to teach my youngest to fish was postponed by one day in favor of a walk to the pulperia to buy candy, along with the pack of Spanishspeaking boy-wolves he’d befriended with his brother.

New faces, new memories

If cousins or other families aren’t part of the package on family vacations, we hear about it, but new faces meant new memories. It was like summer camp condensed into two days of intense learning how to be. The outdoors was their classroom.

Dinner that night and breakfast the next morning lacked nothing

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but preservatives. Everything was delicious, fresh and as nutrientrich as the fertile loam I saw in the garden where much of it was grown behind our lodge. A guayabana we ate was twice the size of my head, and my head is pumpkin-sized. The attentive La Carolina staff never ran out of juices, salsas, fresh limonada and hot chocolate always on tap.

Even our vegan and pescatarian requests were met with smiles and extra helpings of pan-fried yucca chips.

Conversations flowed at the lodge’s communal-style tables, all wrought on the premises by Henry, the in-house carpenter, who manages to make every structure look like a tree.

Rather stay and play

The day before, we’d scoured guide books and decided we could miss the “can’t-miss” Rio Celeste, opting to just stay and play at the lodge all day like our kids. If our wood supply hadn’t been so well stocked, I would have thrown our printout of must-sees into the fire as well.

Rains came and went. Massages were booked for my wife and me throughout the day by “Always There John,” down by the Rio Chimuria. Later on came reading, more wood-fired hot tubbing … rinse, repeat.

I finally worked in that fishing lesson too. We landed some off the dock before my youngest had to split

for another horseback ride with his new buddies and Alejandro.

By dinner, I had to pry the boys loose from a soccer game where teams were delineated by the mud patterns painted on their chests. If “Lord of the Flies” were recast as a Costa Rican western, that day would have been the film’s trailer.

Dark park

One of the best parts about La Carolina Lodge is that it is a screen-free, dark park. The Milky Way is a spectacular substitute for television, as it turns out. When the sun goes down and the candles have burned their last bit of wax, there’s not much to do but sleep. You don’t realize until you wake up at 5 a.m. that you were out cold by 9 p.m., if not earlier.

On our last morning, I woke with the sun, bats darting in the halflight to roost as I went to the birdwatching area. Every day, employees set out bananas to attract winged wonders on wooden platforms a few feet off the ground. A motmot I’d named “Sarge” was standing sentinel over the plantain haul, unflappable in the face of darting thrushes, hummingbirds and honeycreepers.

I’m not even a birder, but at that moment, there was a connection … as if Sarge was sending me a message. Stop ignoring my inner child and transforming into the adult telling others what to do and not to do. Just be. Like the kids. howlermag.com

Est. 1998

Special Low Season Rates

Looking for an Escape Costa Rica micro-climates provide Indian su mmers to a few tropical spots during the height of rainy season

L

a Carolina Lodge is located in the northcentral region of Costa Rica, on the northeastern slopes of Tenorio Volcano.

As in many mountain locations generally, and consistent with Costa Rica’s exceptional number of diverse micro-climates, the climate that lodge visitors can expect is different from the weather conditions in surrounding areas just a flatland away.

In fact, La Carolina is in a spot that experiences an early autumn “Indian Summer” that is quite unique in the Central American tropics.

When we visited in July, rains punctuated our days with occasional downpours that could wake us from sleep or lull us back in mid-massage. Coming from always-hot central Texas, we enjoy traveling during shoulder seasons like this because of the brief

rains, not in spite of them.

But after just a few hours at La Carolina Lodge we were already plotting how and when we could come back. We quickly learned of the mini-dry season in September and October that would keep us from having to wait another year.

One other exception to Costa Rica’s rainy season “rule” exists in the Cahuita area of the Caribbean coast. Although the area receives year-round rainfall, September and October are typically drier. Again, this is inconsistent with the rest of Costa Rica, where those two months are normally the rainiest.

For a fascinating overview of Costa Rica's wide-ranging microclimates and the scientific determining factors, see Howler's November 2018 cover story at www.howlermag.com/costarica-climates

Come experience the PURE Costa Rica 80 minute drive from Liberia Airport Farm-to-table meals included, private hiking trails, fishing, swimming, horseback riding, yoga, massage and relaxing

www.lacarolinalodge.com US (843) 343-4201 / CR 2466-6393 info@lacarolinalodge.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 25

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

A Playground for Whales Ten Species Inhabit Costa Rican Waters

CREATURE FEATURE

by Jenn Parker

by Jim Parisi & Alei Burns

Although whales inhabit the Pacific Ocean year-round, the best time for viewing them is August through October.

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T

he Caribbean and Pacific Oceans, embracing Costa Rica on its opposite shores, are both teeming with life. Ten species of whales call these waters their home for at least a portion of each year.

In fact, Costa Rica has dedicated Ballenas National Marine Park, south of Dominical, as a preserve for whale breeding and mating.

Although whales inhabit the Pacific Ocean year-round, the best time for viewing them is August through October. Ironically, while

the whale population is denser in the Caribbean Ocean, spotting them from Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast is more difficult due to a lengthy, shallow plate extending from the shore.

There is significant diversity in the most common whales that frequent Costa Rican waters.

Whale species are divided into two distinct categories: those with teeth (odontocetes) and those with a filtering mechanism for ingesting food, known as baleen whales.

howlermag.com

Food filterers

Sei whales are the fastest and second largest type of baleen whale. Steely gray in color, they can weigh up to 30,000 kilograms (about 65,000 pounds). Sadly, they are on the endangered list Another endangered whale in the baleen category is the Bryde’s (pronounced “brude’s”), easily identified by the three distinct ridges on its head. The Bryde’s whale can only survive in water temperatures above 20oC, so its habitats are restricted to warmer climates.

The blue whale is the largest mammal on earth, reaching more than 100 feet in length when fully mature.

These whales, a staggering seven meters in length at birth, can be found in every ocean on the planet. Hunted nearly to extinction in the 19th century, the blue whale has since made a steady recovery.

Perhaps the most popular baleen whale is the humpback. Easily identified by their long pectoral fins, which can reach up to 15 feet, humpbacks are also unique for their style of leaping from the water — breaching — as if in a dance. The most social of whales, humpbacks travel in pods and communicate with each other through underwater “songs”.

Whales with teeth

In the odontocetes category, pilot whales have a sharply pointed fluke, or tail fin, and a globe-shaped head.

They also travel in pods; in fact, they are rarely spotted solo.

The pygmy sperm whale, as its name suggests, is among the smallest of this type of mammal, with adults rarely exceeding 10 feet long. It has a creamy, pinkish underbelly.

The dwarf sperm whale, even smaller than its pygmy cousin, is usually no longer than eight feet. These whales can emit a reddish-brown ink to distract predators, much the same as squids do.

The beaked whale is recognizable for its lower jaw with jutting teeth, shaped very much like a beak. Its adult length can be up to 15 feet.

Then we have the killer whale, or orca, which will eat pretty much anything that moves. Seals, turtles, squid, seabirds or even other whales are all on the orca’s menu.

Weighing up to 10 tons, these mammoths have an erect dorsal fin and a distinct black-on-top and white-onthe-bottom color pattern.

False killer whales are also predators, but being only about two-thirds the size of the orca and dull grey in color makes them much less popular to observe.

Fresh • Local Award-Winning Craft Beer

Scientifically bred playground

It is no coincidence that the place where the Pacific Ocean embraces Costa Rica has become a playground for whales. The scientific term Costa Rican Thermal Convection describes the upwelling effect of shallow warm waters directly offshore meeting cold, deeper waters to create a “dome effect.”

This unique swelling current directs microscopic food from the bottom of the ocean into an area where whales (and dolphins) can thrive from a virtually unlimited, perfect food supply. The result is that Costa Rican waters have become a favored spot for the world’s largest mammals … and for the humans who observe them with fascination.

Photo courtesy of sylivaguardia.com

Made in Liberia FIND US

www.numubrewing.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 27

CREATURE FEATURE

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Stop and enjoy the harvest they will be gone soon

MUST DO

MAMÓN CHINO SEASON

by Jim Parisi & Alei Burns

It is commonly called mamón chino, which translates as “Chinese lollipop.”

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K

nown for being bountiful in flora and fauna, Costa Rica is a land where fruits and vegetables seemingly take turns becoming ripe throughout the year. Produce stands throughout the country have a constant turnover of fresh products recently come into season. In Guanacaste, a peak harvest time is August and September.

One of the more handy and colorful fruits to ripen this time of year is the rambutan (Naphelium Lappaceum), which is the name of both the fruit and the tree that bears it. The tree itself is a member of the lychee family.

With nicknames being an ingrained part of Costa Rican culture, this colorful and popular fruit is no exception. It is commonly called mamón chino, which translates as “Chinese lollipop.” It’s an appropriate name in that the rambutan is native to Malaysia, brought to South America by the Dutch in the early 18th century and gradually making its way north over the next 200 years.

The rambutan is propagated by rooting the cuttings, or slips, of parent plants. In the Americas, ants and bees are the trees’ most

prolific pollinizers. Young trees begin bearing fruit after four or five years, reaching maturity about a decade after planting. In Costa Rica, mamón chino trees grow best in low, coastal areas, below an altitude of 300 meters.

The fruit of the rambutan is covered with a thick, soft, spiky rind that turns a bright scarlet when ripe. In Malaysia, in fact, “rambutan” means “hairy.” Don’t be intimidated by the spiky appearance of this fruit. This skin is easily removed by hand – the “spikes” are soft, not sharp — exposing a gummy, bittersweet off-white flesh covering a dark brown seed. But be forewarned: the flesh is soft and sweet but the seed at the center is very hard.

Superfood attributes

The rind of the rambutan has proven to have effective antioxidant properties. The pulp contains diverse nutrients, all in modest amounts, with the exception of a healthy dose of manganese, copper and vitamin C. Just 100 grams of the pulp provides about 66 percent of our daily vitamin C requirement. The flesh

howlermag.com

is also used to make a delicious, sweet preserve. The mamón chino seed is high in unsaturated fatty acids and can be boiled to make it edible, although this is not a common practice in Costa Rica. Native Central Americans also used the rambutan tree leaves and bark to make inks and dyes.

Kids love this nutritious food source, perhaps because it almost resembles a toy or candy. They find it easy to peel and enjoy the gummy, semi-gelatinous texture. During peak season, a kilo of rambutan can be purchased at a very reasonable price, making it easy for kids to do what they love most: share with each other.

Golfito garden paradise

Robert Beatham moved to Golfito in 1969, working for the United Fruit Company. He eventually bought his own piece of land which he began cultivating in 1980. This effort evolved into The Paradise Tropical Garden in Rio Claro, just outside Golfito. One of Beatham’s biggest crops is the rambutan, earning him the nickname “The Mamón Chino King of Golfito”. There are several videos on YouTube that do a good job of filming Robert and his gardens, harvesting his mamónes. See this article online at www.howlermag.com/mamon-chino to link to videos.

The mamón chino is yet another delightful and delicious exotic treat Costa Rica has to offer. Buen provecho!

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29

SURFIN G HOWLER

MOON PHASES

Sept. 6 October 5 1st Quarter

COSTA RICA

Sept. 14 October 13 Full Moon

Sept. 22 October 21 3rd Quarter

Sept. 28 October 28 New Moon

SUNRISE Sept. 1 Sept. 30

Real Surf Trips with Tony

October 1 5:27 am October 31 5:29 am

The snap is surfing’s great exclamation point. All the paddling, the drop, flying down the line and managing your speed, it all leads to this moment. The snap. How someone puts it on rail, carves through the move, and emerges with speed, defines a lot about their skill, style, and flair. So get out there, read the wave, find that line and show us what you have: Let’s see your snap!

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5:30 am 5:27 am

Words and photo: Tony Roberts Surfer: Magnum Marinez

SUNSET Sept. 1 Sept. 30

5:48 pm 5:30 pm

October 1 5:29 pm October 31 5:16 pm howlermag.com

TIDE CHART

September 1 - September 30, 2019

DAY

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

1 Sun

3:50am 10.44'

9:57am −0.98'

4:12pm 10.26'

10:18pm −1.21'

2 Mon

4:38am 10.63'

10:46am −1.06'

5:00pm 10.14'

11:05pm −1.08'

3 Tues

5:25am 10.54'

11:35am −0.87'

5:50pm 9.76'

11:53pm −0.68'

4 Wed

6:15am 10.16' 12:26pm −0.43'

6:41pm 9.19'

5 Thurs

12:43am −0.07'

7:06am 9.58'

1:19pm 0.17'

7:35pm 8.51'

6 Fri

1:36am 0.66'

8:01am 8.89'

2:17pm 0.81'

8:35pm 7.85'

7 Sat

2:35am 1.37'

9:02am 8.25'

3:21pm 1.34'

9:43pm 7.37'

8 Sun

3:43am 1.92'

10:10am 7.80'

4:32pm 1.64'

10:54pm 7.18'

9 Mon

4:56am 2.18'

11:18am 7.61'

5:41pm 1.66'

10 Tues

12:01am 7.28'

6:05am 2.12'

12:20pm 7.67'

6:40pm 1.47'

11 Wed

12:57am 7.58'

7:02am 1.86'

1:12pm 7.88'

7:28pm 1.19'

12 Thurs

1:44am 7.94'

7:48am 1.50'

1:57pm 8.15'

8:08pm 0.89'

HIGH TIDES

SURF EAT

13 Fri

2:24am 8.32'

8:28am 1.13'

2:37pm 8.41'

8:44pm 0.63'

14 Sat

3:00am 8.65'

9:04am 0.79'

3:13pm 8.61'

9:18pm 0.43'

15 Sun

3:34am 8.90'

9:38am 0.53'

3:49pm 8.72'

9:50pm 0.33'

16 Mon

4:07am 9.05'

10:12am 0.37'

4:23pm 8.69'

10:22pm 0.35'

17 Tues

4:40am 9.07'

10:45am 0.34'

4:58pm 8.55'

10:55pm 0.49'

18 Wed

5:14am 8.97'

11:20am 0.44'

5:33pm 8.28'

11:29pm 0.72'

19 Thurs

5:48am 8.76'

11:57am 0.65'

6:10pm 7.95'

20 Fri

12:05am 1.02'

6:25am 8.48'

12:36pm 0.93'

6:50pm 7.59'

21 Sat

12:45am 1.36'

7:07am 8.15'

1:21pm 1.25'

7:37pm 7.25'

22 Sun

1:33am 1.69'

7:58am 7.83'

2:15pm 1.52'

8:35pm 7.03'

23 Mon

2:31am 1.93'

9:00am 7.61'

3:18pm 1.65'

9:43pm 7.04'

24 Tues

3:41am 1.97'

10:11am 7.61'

4:27pm 1.52'

10:55pm 7.38'

25 Wed

4:56am 1.68'

11:22am 7.91'

5:35pm 1.11'

26 Thurs

12:01am 8.00'

6:05am 1.09'

12:26pm 8.44'

6:36pm 0.51'

27 Fri

12:58am 8.79'

7:05am 0.35'

1:23pm 9.06'

7:30pm −0.14'

28 Sat

1:51am 9.57'

7:59am −0.38'

2:15pm 9.62'

8:21pm −0.69'

29 Sun

2:40am 10.22'

8:50am −0.95'

3:04pm 10.01'

9:08pm −1.06'

30 Mon

3:27am 10.62'

9:38am −1.27'

3:52pm 10.15'

9:55pm −1.16'

STRETCH SLEEP REPEAT #gogrande

We h a v e y o u c o v e r e d .

Free 2 hr

Board Rental with surf lesson

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Sunset

Happy hour

Daily, 4-6 2x1 cocktails 1000c beers Discount bocas menu

www.ripjackinn.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 31

TIDE CHART

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October 1 - October 31, 2019

DAY

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

1 Tues

4:14am 10.72'

10:25am −1.30'

4:39pm 10.02'

10:41pm −0.97'

2 Wed

5:00am 10.51'

11:12am −1.03'

5:27pm 9.64'

11:28pm −0.51'

3 Thurs

5:48am 10.02' 12:00pm −0.52'

6:17pm 9.06'

4 Fri

12:17am 0.15'

6:38am 9.33'

12:51pm 0.14'

7:10pm 8.39'

5 Sat

1:10am 0.90'

7:32am 8.56'

1:46pm 0.84'

8:09pm 7.75'

6 Sun

2:08am 1.62'

8:32am 7.86'

2:49pm 1.43'

9:16pm 7.29'

7 Mon

3:16am 2.15'

9:39am 7.36'

3:58pm 1.79'

10:26pm 7.12'

8 Tues

4:31am 2.35'

10:49am 7.17'

5:07pm 1.86'

11:32pm 7.23'

9 Wed

5:41am 2.22'

11:52am 7.26'

6:07pm 1.70'

10 Thurs

12:27am 7.54'

6:37am 1.88'

12:45pm 7.52'

6:55pm 1.43'

11 Fri

1:12am 7.93'

7:21am 1.46'

1:30pm 7.85'

7:35pm 1.12'

HIGH TIDES

12 Sat

1:51am 8.33'

7:59am 1.02'

2:09pm 8.17'

8:11pm 0.84'

13 Sun

2:27am 8.70'

8:35am 0.62'

2:46pm 8.43'

8:45pm 0.61'

14 Mon

3:01am 8.99'

9:09am 0.30'

3:21pm 8.60'

9:18pm 0.47'

15 Tues

3:34am 9.17'

9:42am 0.10'

3:56pm 8.64'

9:51pm 0.44'

16 Wed

4:08am 9.22'

10:17am 0.04'

4:31pm 8.57'

10:25pm 0.52'

17 Thurs

4:42am 9.15'

10:52am 0.11'

5:07pm 8.38'

11:01pm 0.70'

18 Fri

5:18am 8.95'

11:30am 0.32'

5:45pm 8.13'

11:39pm 0.95'

19 Sat

5:57am 8.64'

12:10pm 0.61'

6:27pm 7.84'

20 Sun

12:23am 1.26'

6:41am 8.28'

12:56pm 0.94'

7:16pm 7.57'

21 Mon

1:13am 1.57'

7:34am 7.90'

1:50pm 1.25'

8:15pm 7.40'

22 Tues

2:15am 1.79'

8:38am 7.62'

2:53pm 1.43'

9:23pm 7.45'

23 Wed

3:26am 1.79'

9:51am 7.58'

4:02pm 1.38'

10:33pm 7.79'

24 Thurs

4:40am 1.48'

11:03am 7.83'

5:10pm 1.06'

11:38pm 8.37'

25 Fri

5:48am 0.91'

12:07pm 8.31'

6:12pm 0.57'

26 Sat

12:36am 9.07'

6:48am 0.22'

1:04pm 8.86'

7:07pm 0.03'

27 Sun

1:28am 9.74'

7:41am −0.43'

1:56pm 9.36'

7:58pm −0.42'

28 Mon

2:17am 10.26'

8:31am −0.91'

2:45pm 9.71'

8:46pm −0.69'

29 Tues

3:05am 10.54'

9:18am −1.16'

3:32pm 9.84'

9:33pm −0.73'

30 Wed

3:51am 10.54'

10:04am −1.15'

4:19pm 9.74'

10:19pm −0.52'

31 Thurs

4:37am 10.27'

10:50am −0.88'

5:07pm 9.42'

11:06pm −0.08'

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 33

SURFING COSTA RICA

The Resano Sisters

SURF PROFILE

T Being surrounded by nature and sea life is never boring.

he three Resano sisters, Valentina, Candelaria, and Maxima, are truly at home in the water. It’s a good thing, then, that they live in Popoyo, one of the best surf breaks in Nicaragua.

Being able to enjoy the surfing lifestyle was a factor when the girls’ dad, Manuel, from Argentina, and mom, Beatriz del Caso, from Spain, chose to make their home and start their family there.

“I’ve been in the ocean either swimming or surfing for as long as I can remember,” recalls oldest daughter, Valentina. “My dad surfs every day so it was natural for me to get into it as well.”

The other two sisters

Athlete: Valentina Resano Sport: Surfing Age: 15 About: A lot of style that permits as much speed, power and flow as possible

Valen

followed suit. For Candelaria, being surrounded by nature and sea life is never boring.

She feels these elements are always changing, offering something new.

In the same vein, no two waves are ever alike, says Candelaria. “Once on the wave, there are unlimited ways of reading the wave … it makes it so fun!”

For the eldest surfer girl, the constant goal is to go for bigger turns while maintaining speed, flow and turns. Her favorite surfing moment is getting barreled.

While the Resano girls naturally love Nicaragua waves, they do travel down to Costa Rica about 15 times a

Athlete: Maxima Resano Sport: Surfing Age: 10 About: Surfing style is fast with a lot of carves

Sponsors:

by Ellen Zoe Golden

Maxi

year, mostly for contests like the Kolbi Circuito Nacional de Surf and the Circuito Guanacasteco de Surf. In addition, the family enjoys its southern neighbor’s waves so much, the Resanos also chose to head here for vacations — particularly on the Caribbean side and Osa Peninsula.

“We love the pura vida vibe,” explains Candelaria.

Maxima elaborates on her preferred Osa Peninsula surf spot: “My favorite wave in Costa Rica is Pan Dulce in Matapalo, because it’s a very long wave with a lot of different sections. In one section you can go slow and do cutbacks. In another section you can get a lot of speed

Athlete: Candelaria Resano Sport: Surfing Age: 13 About: Smooth and fast, top to bottom, always trying to hit the more vertical part of the wave Cande

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Maxi Cande

Castro turns on a dime

and do turns. And I also like us the opportunity to give it because it’s beautiful and him feedback, not only about undeveloped there.” the board designs, but also Valentina, Candelaria and different materials. We also Maxima are all sponsored play with different weights.” by the same companies.

As you would expect, these Their shaper, Juan Diego surfboards help the Resano Evangelista at Cheboards, girls in their competitions. has worked with the Resanos Already at such young ages, since the girls were very they are making their way young, growing together to winners’ podiums. Aside through their five years from the Costa Rica contests, as a team. According to the sisters have had the Manuel Resano, JD’s passion opportunity to travel all over for creating surfboards the world. They’ve competed contributes to the highin Japan, the Azures, Portugal quality tools — surfboards and all over Central America, — that help the girls improve meeting other athletes and and succeed in their sport. learning from them and the “JD is open and very variety of waves on offer. motivated to learn about new Valentina says that the designs,” Manuel says. “Our goal is not just to win, but also boards have developed a lot to having fun putting forth their the point where they are world best effort and enjoying the class. It’s super important to experiences. have a local shaper, because Little Maxima, at her at their age, my daughters young age, already has her change weight and height so sights on a surfing career, quickly. Their boards need to aspiring to “get paid doing be done right away and then what I love. I can surf all day only last less than a year until whenever I want.” they grow out of them. JD is Cande pulling into a plant pocket very humble and that gives

Valen

Photos courtesy of Resano Family

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 35

SURFING COSTA RICA

Having a positive, respectful, and friendly attitude in the line-up will go a long way, especially if you are a visiting surfer.

SURF 101

There’s More to Learn Than Just Popping Up

by Jenn Parker

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I

f you’ve taken a surf lesson or two, you’ve probably already stood up on your first whitewater wave. Congratulations! But, before you get too stoked on being a bona fide surfer, you still have a lot to learn. Surfing beyond the whitewater is very different from the shallow shore water scene where you have an instructor standing by your side to help you with your soft top.

Learning to surf is more than just learning how to stand up on a surfboard. It is a sport and a lifestyle that includes a deep understanding of the ocean, an ability to navigate powerful currents, heavy waves, and unexpected scenarios; a present-set mind, a physically fit body and a drive to persevere.

There are also safety precautions, rules, and etiquette that must be followed, even when other surfers don’t abide.

Your surf instructor can teach you how to prepare your surfboard, position your body, paddle and pop up. This surfing 101 guide is intended to fill in some of the gaps that are often overlooked or under-taught. With

practice, patience, passion and possession of these invaluable out-of-the-water surfing lessons, you will be on your way to becoming a competent and safe surfer.

Expectations versus reality

I am going to be straight with you.

Don’t expect it to be easy progressing from the beginner phase. If you don’t live near a consistent surf break or don’t have the opportunity to surf regularly, it will likely take you a long time to advance from beginner to confident and capable surfer. But that’s ok! If you love surfing, you will enjoy putting in the effort and reaping the rewards of your hard work.

Surfing isn’t a sport that you can master.

The ocean is the master, and as long as you surf, you are at her mercy. The best you can hope for is to learn how to be in harmony with the sea and surf, and to improve upon the technical components that enable you to catch and ride waves.

howlermag.com

Know Your Place

There is absolutely no reason to try and paddle out and surf at a break that far exceeds your current level. Not only will this prove to be a frustrating experience for you, but a dangerous and equally frustrating one for the other surfers in the water. There are all different types of waves and surf breaks, and often more advanced spots are located close to beginner and intermediate-friendly spots. Sometimes, it is just the difference between one peak and another on the same stretch of beach.

“If you're still in the area where you took your lessons, ask your instructors where is a good spot for you to go practice on your own.” says Juan Jose (JJ) Frijoles Locos' head surf instructor. “If you're at a new beach the local surf shop should happily explain where you should & shouldn't go as a beginner.”

Knowing your place in the line-up is vital. If you aren’t sure, paddle out wide and sit on the shoulder to assess the surf scene and whether or not this is where you should be surfing. This doesn’t mean that you can’t challenge yourself.

But as a beginner, you should be more focused on just getting your pop-up to be fast and fluid, and your makeable wave count to be higher. Repetition is key to building muscle memory and preparing to eventually snag a sizeable set wave or glide through the blue room of a barrel.

When I was first learning how to surf, I would often seek out a peak that had few or no other surfers on it, even if it didn’t look like the most consistent spot to surf. This space allowed me to practice and make mistakes without affecting anyone else. And, since I was able to paddle for any wave that might come my way, I was able to increase my wave count and in turn quickly improve my pop-up so Eventually you will progress to a smaller "duck diveable board," but to start you will learn the "big board roll." But learning to get through waves will make surfing both easier and more fun.

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that I could confidently move on to better waves.

Etiquette, attitude, and common sense

Standard surf etiquette includes: • Not dropping in on the surfer who is closest to the peak of the wave.

• Paddling back out wide so you don’t interfere with the next surfer on the wave.

• Not immediately paddling straight back out to the peak after you have just caught or even wiped out on a wave.

Don't drop in on somone who is closer to the peak or already up and riding. Photo: Robert Ledbetter

Surfing is about sharing, even though it is an individual sport. The waves belong to everyone and no one, and there are plenty to go around if everyone just follows the rules.

Having a positive, respectful, and friendly attitude in the line-up will go a long way, especially if you are a visiting surfer. There is nothing local surfers hate more than when a visiting surfer paddles out like he or she owns the break.

No matter where you go surfing, there will always be a local population of surfers who likely surf that spot anytime there are waves. Before you decide to charge the first wave within reach, take a few minutes to look around, assess the line-up, and respectfully wait your turn.

Don’t paddle for a wave if there is a high chance you could run over or collide with another surfer. Don’t ditch your surfboard when a wave is about to crash on you; that is highly dangerous to you and other surfers. If you accidentally drop in on another surfer, apologize sincerely.

Look behind you at least twice before you drop into a wave to make sure you aren’t dropping into someone else’s wave.

Don’t paddle out into a situation that you know you can’t handle yet.

Don’t be THAT guy or girl

Also try your best to not be this guy, in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Paddle back out wide so you don't interfere with the next surfer.

Surfing isn’t about letting your ego get the best of you.

There is always a good chance you will encounter at least one angry, aggressive and self-entitled ego-maniac in the surf, wherever you go. But remember surfing is supposed to be fun and make you happy, not a psychopath. Don’t be the guy or girl in the line-up who ruins it for everyone else. Be the surfer in the water that you would want to surf with.

Remember why you decided to surf

Most of us have our own personal reasons for deciding we wanted to surf and continuing to surf. If your explanation doesn’t include something about the immense joy that surfing evokes, the undeniable bliss, having a perma-grin plastered on your sun-kissed face, or a feeling that can only be described as pure stoke, then this might not be the sport for you. If surfing makes you mad, rude, selfish, inconsiderate and an all-around bad-vibe jerk, you should give it up after you finish reading this paragraph.

However, if that first wave that you just recently caught sparked something in your soul that can only be sustained by another wave, welcome to the rest of your life being ruled by the tides, wind, swell, and moon. At least it will be like that spending time in a place blessed with surfable waves like Costa Rica.

Welcome to a life-long relationship with the sea!

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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT The PINCEL logo incorporates five elements: 1. Box — storage container for digital information 2. Eye — representing search, light and observation 3. Arroba (@ symbol) — digital connection

C 0, M 100, Y 100, K 0.

C 90, M 50, Y 0, K 0.

4. Spiral — hallmark of the “golden ratio” (esthetically pleasing proportions in nature, art and architecture)

Font Avenir Light

ACE FEATURE

5. Red, white and blue — colors of the Costa Rican flag

WELCOME TO PINCEL

by Howler Staff

A Worldwide Window to Costa Rica’s Rich Art Legacy ‘Through this website, Costa Rica can be seen through the eyes of the artist.’

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I

f the vast richness of Costa Rica’s artistic legacy has long been a well-kept secret, lack of mainstream exposure likely explains why. Just over a year ago, that accessibility barrier was lifted permanently by an open window to the widest possible world.

Pinacoteca Costarricense Electronica (PINCEL) — translated as Paint Brush Art Gallery — now provides virtual assurance that the past, present and future of Costa Rican art can neither remain undiscovered nor be forgotten. As the country’s first-ever e-cultural platform of its kind, PINCEL paves the way for more online galleries and museums that visitors can explore anytime, from anywhere.

“This is a new experience for those who are nourished by art,” said Maria E. Guardia Yglesias, founder and curator, when PINCEL was unveiled

on August 23, 2018 at the Costa Rican Art Museum in San José. “Perhaps for many, it will mean the only resource for getting to know Costa Rican art.”

Besides being an opportunity for countless experienced artists to show their works publicly or widely for the first time, Guardia explained, PINCEL is an ideal showcase for young emerging talent to gain early recognition.

Above all, she added, “through this website, Costa Rica can be seen through the eyes of the artist.”

From a cultural heritage standpoint, PINCEL is a watershed achievement with an open-ended timeline. The initial collection of works by some 280 Costa Rican artists dates back to the 1840s and extends to the late 1970s. Subsequent time periods will include current artists and others spanning the 1980s, 1990s and into the 21st century. Being C 0, M 100, Y 100, K 0.

C 90, M 50, Y 0, K 0.

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Font Avenir Light

Above: “The Fish Also Die” Oil painting by Manuel de la Cruz

Left: “Iglesia de San Sebastián”

by Teodorico Quirós, 1945

Left: Photograph of Teodorico Quirós painting outdoors

Explore the e-gallery: www.artecostarica.cr

a digital, interactive platform makes it possible for PINCEL to be constantly updated with new artworks and information.

The extensive archive already includes more than 20,000 works, encompassing visual arts, sculptures, artistic photography, graphic art, monuments and emblematic creations.

PINCEL project, undertaken and largely funded by Guardia, was to create a comprehensive historical database of national artists. Her investigations over the course of nearly 20 years were supported by the University of Costa Rica, as well as a research grant from Florida Ice & Farm Co. (FIFCO).

A key element of the

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 41

URBAN TOURISM

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

ATENAS

BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

by Sylvia Barreto Benites

Atenas offers varied attractions for nature lovers 42

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N

estled in the mountains and lush fields of Costa Rica’s Alajuela province is a town called Atenas. Ideal weather, creature comforts and slow-paced lifestyle are just a few reasons for this small community becoming so popular for expats to relocate and for visitors to stop over.

Originally known as the “Long Savana,” Atenas took on its namesake identity from Athens, Greece in 1833. It was once the home of the Hueter tribe, consisting of various isolated families. The Spanish conquest brought surveyors looking for fertile lands, resulting in the development of a trading post and way station for Costa Rica’s key agricultural trading routes. It became an important place for ox cart drivers (boyeros) to sleep and feed their oxen while travelling into the Central Valley.

In 1960, National Geographic awarded

Atenas global recognition for having the best weather on earth, with year-round temperatures hovering in the 70s and summer peaks in the 80s. Given the climate’s allure to foreigners, among other attributes of location, Atenas has grown into the modern city it is today, with a small-town feel. It boasts all the comforts and conveniences of modern urban life, while still an agricultural hub focused on coffee, sugar cane, corn, beans and fruits.

Atenas offers varied attractions for nature lovers, including its Central Park, municipal gardens and the Botanical Orchid Garden.

There is also a butterfly sanctuary and the Zoo Avenue wildlife rescue and rehabilitation center.

Atenas is also a great location for coffee tours, taking you through all the processes from growing to brewing and an opportunity howlermag.com

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Where is it? to take home coffee-related souvenirs.

Before you even get to Atenas, stop at the Monument of the Boyeros, a sculpture depicting the oxcart heritage of traditional agricultural commerce. These carts are an important part of the Costa Rican identity, the colorful wheels being an historic symbol of agricultural prosperity through the ages.

The center of Atenas is a place to stay awhile and enjoy your peaceful surroundings.

Visit the San Rafael Archangel Parish and its plaza and garden.

There is no better way to feel the

pulse of the local people than to lazily sit in the central plaza and watch passersby.

Renowned for centuries as a favored lodging spot for travelers, Atenas offers an array of places to stay. From luxury to basic comforts, there is something for everyone’s budget. With the influx of visitors and an ever-expanding expat community comes a variety of delicious cuisine, too.

Located just 30 minutes from San José, Atenas has everything you could want from big city living with the feel of a small farming town — truly the best of both worlds.

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

Part 1: Learn for Your Liver’s Sake WELLNESS

The Keto Craze: What You May Not Know

by Laura Méndez

Your liver cells need healthy sugars and carbohydrates to function properly.

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L

et me get straight to the point: I´m worried. I’m referring to the popularity of so-called “keto diets,” which promote lowcarbohydrate and high-protein consumption for weight loss. As with many other food and health-related trends, I’m particularly worried about any diet high in animal-sourced protein.

Here is why. First, to understand the benefits of any diet or food trend you must understand some basics about how the human body functions.

Keeping it super simple: 1.

High animal protein diet = high fat diet It doesn't make any difference whether you choose a lean cut of meat.

A high-protein diet will always be high in fat.

2. High fat diet = an overloaded, overworked liver … eventually the liver tries to clear up the fat that you eat and metabolize it into energy.

So by eating high-animal protein

foods at every meal, every day, your liver ultimately becomes overworked, tired and sluggish. When this happens, forms of fat and other toxins are released into the blood and will accumulate in your arteries, veins and other organs.

3. Overloaded and overworked liver = compromising of vital liver functions 4. Compromised liver functions daily, for extended periods = diminished natural detoxing capabilities 5. Diminished detoxing capabilities = toxin buildup 6. Toxin buildup = undeniable chronic diseases 7. Your liver cells need healthy sugars and carbohydrates to function properly. Trends such as the keto diet only allow minimal consumption of healthy sugars and carbs. In effect, this starves the liver cells, depleting them of the energy needed to clear up and metabolize your fat consumption.

howlermag.com

Perhaps the main reason for the keto trend being so popular is also what makes it tricky and problematic. In the short run, you will lose weight quickly by putting your body into a state called ketosis.

For many people, this can seem like their last, best hope for losing those extra pounds. They love the idea of eating large amounts of food — mainly from animal sources — yet still losing weight

All about loving your liver

The problem with this trend, as I mentioned before, is not the ketosis in and of itself. The real problem is failure to understand or take into consideration the healthy functioning of your liver.

Think of this analogy: You are a parent who works 24 hours a day, all year round with no vacations. You must deal with an immense number of tasks: producing energy to care for your family (metabolization of food into energy), cleaning up routine messes all day long (detoxing), constantly organizing the household (enzymatic reactions), taking out the trash (proper disposal of toxins, medications, microorganisms, etc.) and cooking all the daily meals (modulating the sugars levels

along with the pancreas).

You continue taking care of the kids (the liver has various important functions related to innate and adaptive immunity). Finally at the end of the day, you strive to leave the house as clean as possible (on top of all the other functions the liver orchestrates all day long).

I hope this helps you better appreciate the extent that our bodies rely on the liver to perform more than 1,000 vital functions to keep us healthy.

Can you imagine the impact of overloading this unselfishly amazing organ with loads and loads of fat with every meal?

Will there not come a time when this situation becomes unsustainable? How long can your liver continue doing its job to support your health and your lifestyle? It’s likely not as long as you might have thought.

Now ask yourself this: Do you suffer from any chronic disease? If so, then a diet trend is not the answer. Remember, quick fixes don’t work.

Instead, a lifestyle change based on informed decisions can reverse, improve and heal your condition.

Keep learning in the next Howler issue. Part 2 of this article will offer specific advice on lifestyle changes for taking control of your health.

hello@coachlau.com

@LauHHC HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 45

PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

Here a Year Without Illusions CR LIFE

WHY I’M CELEBRATING

by Joanna Blanco

Leave your expectations behind. Come to live a life filled with whatever you are looking for and desire.

H

appy anniversary to me! I have been living in Costa Rica for one year, so I am celebrating pura vida.

What that phrase means to me is more than I can explain easily. And what that might imply is that everyone else who moves to Costa Rica feels the same way. You just have to join us here to know what we’re talking about.

But that isn’t why I find it hard to describe pura vida. It’s because I would never recommend that you come to Costa Rica with high expectations based on what you’ve heard about pura vida from someone else, including myself.

Leave your expectations behind. Come to live a life filled with whatever you are looking for and desire.

I am Venezuelan, and Costa Rica is the third country I have lived in other than my homeland.

My first move was to the Dominican Republic and the second, Peru. As you might imagine, I have gained experience in adapting to different people, languages, climates and food, as well as adjusting to new cultures.

Close to nature

Johanna would love to hear from you with questions and feeback. @movimientosattva tag @howlermagazine

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But enough about me; let's talk about this magnificent country, Costa Rica. As most of you know, it is a green country where people care a lot about the environment and nature.

How incredible is it that many of us have howler monkeys living as close neighbors near our home? I can tell people find this

amazing no matter how familiar it becomes.

And monkeys are not the only animal species living around people in Costa Rica. It’s not uncommon to encounter many kinds of birds, coati, lizards, iguanas and felines, among others, without traveling very far, if at all.

I am a person who believes that by taking small actions, we can help make a big difference. That’s why I signed up with a recycling program that is contributing in a significant way to improve Costa Rica’s waste management capability. It’s gratifying that so many people are glad to support this important cause.

Beach life

Now, let's talk about something I consider extraordinary about Costa Rica: being able to experience life around the beaches. Yes, I know many countries have beaches, but I’m referring to something truly remarkable about the beach life here. The beaches themselves are a blessing, but when you add the perpetual beach weather, plus the vibe, plus the people … that adds up to a complete combo.

One of my favorite Sunday family activities is to visit a beach for the first time, or one we couldn’t wait to visit again. I live on the Pacific coast, where the list of recognized beaches is extensive. We have lots more to cover, so I look forward to continuing these beach trips and visiting more of them over the next year. howlermag.com

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Dining delights

Food is another significant part of my celebration of life in this bountiful land. Costa Rica produces a wide variety of high-quality fresh fruit, vegetables, spices, honey and more. You can also find free-range options for meat and eggs. So if one of your goals in coming to Costa Rica is to create healthier eating habits, you are on the correct path. The local cuisine is very flavorful, and restaurants go to great lengths in offering an excellent culinary experience.

Many are in a location where breathtaking views are a bonus.

Love the people

Last but not least, I must mention that I visited Costa Rica on vacation 14 years

ago. I came away from that trip feeling a love of the people. They are welcoming, respectful, helpful, and pura vida — full of pure life. They live for their country, and they are proud that it is one of the most beautiful in the world.

If you come to Costa Rica to stay a while, your own reasons to celebrate pura vida will make themselves known. Remember not to have high expectations or preconceived ideas. Focus on trying to live a different life than you left behind, perhaps more relaxing but also full of adventure. You are certain to meet many people in a similar situation, so you will very soon feel at home.

Good vibes to all, wherever you are!

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 47

PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

Making mistakes and stumbles is part of the journey.

SPANISH

SHORTCUTS TO SPEAKING SPANISH

by Sylvia Barreto Benites

O

n the road to language fluency, the most important step is actually speaking.

It is also the hardest thing to do. For a combination of reasons, we get tongue tied when trying to communicate in a foreign language. Between the fear of sounding like a fool and the mind-boggling complexity of verb conjugation, most people give up before they begin.

In truth, the key to fluid speech lies in creating your own mental database containing whatever you DO know already. This is sure to allow for more accelerated advancement in speaking Spanish. Here are some shortcuts to help you start talking today.

1. Conjugation is not necessary and comes naturally

Don’t try to conjugate right away. Learn phrases or use the verb in its base form; the

Here are some shortcuts to help you start talking today.

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infinitive. Learn as many verbs as you can and use them in their rudimentary form. It’s all about simple sentences with a subject, a verb and a time marker.

Example: Yo querer comer — I to want to eat no.

It might sound silly to you, but the listener understands and you get your point across.

The more you immerse yourself in the language, the more the language will fall into place.

2. Hay and Hay que

Here is a great little set of words that you can attach to your verbs and really start communicating. Hay means “there is” or “there are” and Hay que means “one must.”

Hay can be combined with objects and inflected as a question. Then you start finding out about all those things you have

Subject

ir a – going to

querer – to want

poder – to be able to

yo – I

voy a

quiero

puedo

tu – informal you

vas a

quieres

puedes

el – he ella – she usted – formal you

va a

quieres

puede

nosotros / as – we

vamos a

queremos

podemos

ellos/ellas – they ustedes – you all

van a

quieren

pueden

howlermag.com

been looking for in stores.

Example: Hay aguacates? — Are there avacados?

Hay que can be combined with a verb and you are getting things done. It can be used when telling workers or helpers to do something you need them to do.

Example: Hay que limpiar la cocina. — The kitchen needs cleaning.

3. Ir a

This little set of words allows you get moving and get people moving. Ir a literally means “to go to” but is translated as “going to.”

You can tack it on to any verb in its base form and you have a sentence. Learning to conjugate ir is pretty simple so you can start forming sentences.

Example: Yo voy a comer ahora — I am going to eat now.

You can add it to a location.

Example: Vamos a la playa! — We are going to the beach.

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4. The conditional

This little trick is pretty amazing. The conditional is the word “would” as in “I would go to eat.” In Spanish the conditional is used to soften commands and requests, so you can use it whenever you are out to eat or shopping. All you do is add ia to the end of a base verb and you just added the word “would.”

Examples: Me gustaria comer — I would like to eat.

Abriria la puerta? — Would you open the door?

irencostarica@gmail.com

(506) 8729 4857

www.irencr.com

5. Helper verb

Instead of learning all Spanish word conjugations, it is easier to learn a couple of “helper” verbs. These can be added to a base verb to make sentences.

Two examples: querer — “to want” and poder — “to be able to” These are two great words to learn to conjugate and then start forming real sentences.

6. No need for question words

Asking questions in Spanish does not need a question word, such as “do” in English. You just make it sound like a question and you are good to go.

Your road to speaking Spanish might include many and all possible paths you take. There is no one way or right way, just your way.

The only certainty is that you will never speak unless you start speaking in the real world. Making mistakes and stumbles is part of the journey, and a very necessary aspect of learning.

A rule of thumb when trying to speak is to ask yourself, “What CAN I say?” instead of asking your brain to translate some complex concept into Spanish. Keep it simple and rudimentary. Learn these tips to get out there and talk.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 49

FASHION FLASH

PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

Vacation W Inspiration

by Patricia Sterman

henever I travel, I want to have the perfect outfit for each occasion. First, I pick my dreamy vacation location, and then I decide where I am going to stay. Last, I start planning which outfits I am going to pack.

It may not be easy to achieve, especially when traveling to different places and climates, possibly including both cities and beach towns. How do you simplify and solve this problem?

Start by making a list of events you will be attending, especially those that are more fashion-oriented. Try to mix and match every outfit. For example, your favorite black shirt can go with jeans for the plane trip and later paired with a boho-long skirt to attend an outdoor music festival.

Always have a couple of everyday dresses. They are easy to pack and you can throw on almost any one of them to go anywhere and look perfect. “Layers� is my favorite word. Plan to wear the same simple dress with a soft, open cardigan or maybe a rain jacket as needed. Try to have at least one of every item possible: a pair of shorts, a skirt, a bathing suit, and rainwear. I promise you will not regret being prepared for any possible situation and weather condition.

Keep in mind that you can make a single item fit more than one scenario, such as converting your sarong for the beach to your scarf for the mountains.

Shoes can be the hardest items to pack, tending to weigh more and take up more space in your suitcase. So I normally go with three options: a pair of nice sandals, a pair of flip-flops and a pair of sneakers. If cold weather is expected, maybe add a nice pair of boots.

Now, you should be good to go!

Patricia would love to hear from you with questions and feeback. @azulprofundoboutique tag @howlermagazine

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CR BIZ Real E st a t e , Bu s i n e ss a n d I nve s tm en t

AVANTI Provides Fresh Air In The

Car Rental Business Choosing a Property Manager Owning and Operating a Business in Costa Rica TAX Reform FAQs

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CO N T E N T S

The Devil is in the Details of CR Car Rentals Cover Story

CR BIZ

6 - Cover Story: Costa Rica Car Rental Business Playing it Straght 10 - CR Biz 101: Owning and Operating a Business in Costa Rica 12 - CR Real Estate: Choosing a Property Management Company 16 - Bank Options: Why Belize is Suitable for Offshore Banking 18 - Legal Ease: Tax Reform FAQs 20 - Doing Business Right: Fruits of Their Labor 22 - Entrepreneur Costa Rica: Becoming Unstuckable

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6 BELIZE?

Bank Options

va Conchal W Costa Rica – Reser ado -Cocina de Merc Featured Restaurant c Open to the Publi

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27 Dining Guide 28- Feature: W Costa Rica - Cocina de Mercado

Restaurants

16 W COSTA RICA Cocina de Mercado Dining Guide Feature

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29 - Reserva Conchal - Cocina de Mercado 29 - Reserva Conchal - Latitud 10° Norte 29- Reserva Conchal - Zona Azul 30 - Jacó - Trident Poseidon 30 - Jacó & Tamarindo - Costa Juice 30 - Jacó - Amara 31 - Jacó - Green Room 31 - La Fortuna Arenal - Pollo Fortuneño 32 - Huacas - New York Pizzeria 32 - Huacas - Soda Guaymy 32 - Huacas - La Playita Restaurante 33 - Playa Grande - Rip Jack Inn 33 - Playa Grande - Pots & Bowls 33 - Matapalo - Salon Victoria 33 - Villarreal - Black Stallion 34 - Flamingo - Margaritaville: 5 o’Clock Somewhere Bar & Griill 34 - Flamingo - Margaritaville: Banana Wind Cafe 34 - Flamingo - Margaritaville: Capriccios Pizza Bistro & Cafe 35 - Flamingo - Vaca Loka 35 - Surfside / Potrero - Potrero Grill 35 - Surfside / Potrero - The Beach House 36 - Las Catalinas - Sentido Norte

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CR BIZ – COVER STORY

Will Avanti Be Your Go-To Car Rental Company?

It Believes Discount, Transparent Pricing and Customer Service Will Win You Over

by Nick Dauk

This type of insurance coverage is required in most countries around the world.

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aise your handif you have ever had a disagreement on payments and/or felt duped by a rental car company..

Don’t be embarrassed — our hands are up too!

It’s a safe bet that many of us, and other fellow travelers, have been misled, hoodwinked or flat-out lied to at some stage of a rental car transaction. All these negative things can happen anywhere, and that includes Costa Rica.

You can google basically any rental car company in the world and see negative posts.

Go ahead, google any rent-a-car company anywhere and now do it for Costa Rica. Oh-oh ... plenty of bad press.

For this to be a black mark on the country’s reputation as a travel and relocation hotspot is the last thing Anibal Morales, General Manager of Avanti Rent-A-Car, wants to see.

“Whether it’s bait-and-switch sales tactics or deceptive pricing,” he says, “no form of ill treatment should be tolerated as a rite of passage for car rental customers in Costa Rica.”

More often than not, Morales points out, people’s car rental experience is their introduction to Costa Rica, so he wants to get them going on the pura vida vibe.

“Its one of the first services that most visitors or newcomers seek out of necessity.

It’s shouldn’t be a sport or a game.”

When Howler was approached by Avanti Rent-A-Car for a promotional partnership, its business model was a breath of fresh air.

Morales was quick to point out that Avanti was created with one goal in mind: to be the trusted, price-transparent rental car source in Costa Rica.

“We want to be known as the go-to car rental company, providing this needed service for a fair price with great customer service.”

Price transparency cr ystal-clear

Whether needing a rental car for vacation, for business or while your car is still at the mechanic’s shop, you always have one eye on your finances. Budget-minded consumers do their research and plan their howlermag.com

costs accordingly.

Yet, it’s not unusual for rental car customers to be shocked when the final price they are asked to pay at the counter is significantly higher than what they were quoted. Typically, they are blindsided when the mandatory insurance requirement suddenly drives up the price, especially if the rental car company fails to mention it until they are deep into the final contract details.

The truth? All car renters in Costa Rica are required by law to purchase Third Party Liability (TPL) insurance coverage. It protects drivers and passengers against injuries, as well as damages to people or property outside of their vehicle. This type of coverage, also known as Supplemental Liability Insurance, is required in most countries around the world.

A common misconception is that your personal car insurance, travel insurance or credit card company covers mandatory TPL insurance in another country. You might have even been told — or mistakenly believed — that it does. Again, that is not the case in Costa Rica, where TPL insurance must be purchased in the country.

To avert any confusion or unpleasant surprises, Avanti includes the TPL cost in its all-inclusive car rental price quotes. No additional taxes, fees or miscellaneous charges are sprung on customers unexpectedly.

Understand your options and what they truly mean

On the other hand, many customers are unwittingly persuaded by a car rental agent to purchase Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) coverage unnecessarily.

Knowledge is your best protection against this common cause for regret.

Although CDW is completely separate from the mandatory Third Party Liability insurance, it can be purchased in addition at the car rental company if needed.

This depends on whether you already have protection under another car insurance or travel policy, if not a qualifying credit card provider. In fact, most major U.S. credit card companies do provide CDW coverage as a cardholder benefit but do not assume that yours does.

Be sure to verify ahead of time whether your coverage through another insurance or credit card provider is international. In addition, obtain proof in writing that you can present to the car rental company. As a further precaution in Costa Rica, find out if a Spanish translation of this verification might be required.

If a car rental company demands that you purchase its CDW insurance in addition to the mandatory TPL insurance, and you are absolutely sure you are covered, we recommend you go to a different car rental agency.

As a related precaution, be very clear about deposit requirements ahead of time. Avanti deposit requirements are clearly outlined on its website.

Be aware that not purchasing CDW coverage from the car rental provider will result in a larger deposit. Right or wrong, this is standard practice for the Costa Rica car rental industry.

Important: Although some car rental companies accept debit cards for deposit payments, credit cards are generally

Anibal Morales, General Manager, Avanti Rent-A-Car

Consumer Checklist

S

ome of the most confusing or commonly misunderstood aspects of car rentals are addressed in the adjacent article. Whether or not the onus should be on car rental companies to communicate more clearly or thoroughly, there’s little doubt about the negative impact on customers’ experiences and perceptions.

The more proactive consumers can be while comparison shopping for car rental quotes, the better. The following is a checklist of key issues covered in the article, along with some additional questions to help you finalize your decision.

•

What is the amount of deposit required? Is the deposit amount (or range of amounts) based on the level of insurance coverage?

•

What specific types of damage are covered and NOT COVERED by the deposit? Be wary of the potential to be “dinged” unreasonable charges for very minor damage.

•

Are debit cards accepted for the deposit or only credit cards? If debit cards are accepted, bear in mind the length of time you might have to wait for your bank account to be reimbursed after returning the vehicle, compared to immediate reversal of a credit card account hold.

•

What “official” proof is required of my existing Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) insurance? Does this need to be translated into Spanish?

•

What if your car rental is booked online through a third-party travel service provider (e.g., Expedia, Priceline, etc)? Are you charged a higher rate that overrides the transparent prices promoted independently by the car rental company?

•

What about theft or loss/damage to my personal belongings in the car? Are you covered through your home property insurance or a travel policy? Be aware of your existing protection or need for additional coverage not included with TPL and CDW insurance.

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recommended as the best option, especially if you already have your own CDW insurance.

Anyone opting to use a debit card for the deposit transaction must clearly understand that ALL car rental companies will debit your bank account, as opposed to putting a hold on your credit card account. With that typically comes an inconvenient wait for your bank account to be reimbursed after returning the vehicle, whereas a credit card account hold is reversed immediately. To minimize bank issues, Avanti is currently preparing a document stating Avanti has returned the debit card deposit, should you experience any delays on your bank side of this transaction.

True discount means no monkeying around

If it sounds too good to be true, be careful. Even the savviest of consumers can fall into price traps. We are talking about internet search results that tout $10-per-day or even $5 daily rates.

Really?!

As you compare car rental costs in Costa Rica — a wise practice for visitors and locals alike — you may notice companies claiming to offer “discount” or “budget” rates. The asterisked text may be less eye-catching — details in small print about the final price being subject to the above-mentioned insurance costs, additional taxes and fees.

Comparison shopping is only effective on an apples-to-apples basis. Even if you have to dig deep during your car rental

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research and ask questions more than once, try to come away with the most straightforward, all-inclusive rates as possible. Then we encourage you to compare the quotes you receive from other companies — even those offering special “discounts” — with Avanti’s all-

If it’s your first car rental experience here, we hope it’s the beginning of your love affair with our beautiful country. inclusive rates.

On average, Morales says he’s confident that Avanti’s price will be 20 percent, or up to 30 percent, lower than any other car rental service in Costa Rica.

Further, discounts are rewarded to longterm renters and returning customers.

In addition, Avanti is excited to offer Howler readers a 10 percent discount on any car rental. .

What about what-ifs?

Accordingly, your choice of rental car service in Costa Rica should take into account the unexpected. A straightforward process for “plan B” assistance can make all the difference when encountering more than your average bumps in the road.

Reliable customer service, as well as safety, are not always a matter of getting

what you pay for. Nor can assumptions be based on whether you are renting through a large franchise corporation or a smaller-scale local entrepreneur. What matters is that the car rental company has your back in the event of a mishap anytime, anywhere.

Morales assures Avanti customers that someone is always available to assist, 24-7. A helpline number is provided when renting the car and on the website. In cases of vehicle damage or breakdown, for example, a coordinator (usually Morales) arranges transportation to the client’s destination and/or a replacement vehicle as soon as possible.

“We know our clients’ time is valuable, so we are going to make every effort to get them on their way as fast as possible,” Morales says.

Customer care so you feel at home

Costa Rica holds a special place in the hearts and minds of visitors, expats and locals alike, Morales says of Avanti’s customer service mission.

“We want our customers to feel like members of the Costa Rican community. You are not just another tourist passing through. If it’s your first car rental experience here, we hope it’s the beginning of your love affair with our beautiful country. We want you to think of Avanti as your keys to Costa Rica.”

Do your homework, drive safe and enjoy the pura vida experience.

Don’t forget to mention Howler to receive an additional 10 percent discount on top of Avanti’s unbeatable prices. howlermag.com

The All- Inclusive Car Rental Quoted Price Includes Mandatory 3rd-Party Liability Insurance

Your Keys to Costa Rica 10simply % Discount mention HOWLER 4700-8966

•

avantirentacar.com

Free Perks, No Hidden Fees. Long-Term Rental Discounts

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 9

CR BIZ

Owning and Operating a Business in Costa Rica

CR BIZ 101

What Employers Need to Know

by Mary Demeter

You may own and manage the business, but not perform tasks or duties.

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o, you’ve moved to the land of pura vida and are ready to launch your small business. Maybe you saw a need in the community, such as a lack of bagels (crazy, right?) and you want to open a bagel shop. Or, perhaps, you are more on the technical side and wish to provide services rather than a product.

Like all countries, there are laws and regulations in Costa Rica governing how foreigners may legally operate a business.

This article addresses one of the most typical business structures, one with employees.

Star ting a business with employees

The first step for any business in Costa Rica is forming a corporation under which the business will operate. This is important to protect the business owner from liability.

Every country has its own lingo, but if you’re from the U.S. this would be similar to an LLC. The process to form a corporation is simpler in Costa Rica than other countries — and faster. The key is to retain a reputable attorney to guide you through the process and ensure all legal requirements, such as

registering the corporation in the National Registry, are properly followed. (Additional details were published in the Howler’s June 2018 LegalEase article, "Corporations in Costa Rica.")

Next, understanding employment laws here is critical. If you are not a legal Costa Rican Permanent Resident, you are not legally allowed to work in your business as a front-line person. You may own and manage the business, but not perform tasks or duties.

Using our bagel shop example, the business owner may hire, fire and train shop employees but not make the bagels and sell them at the counter.

Expats have made the mistake of trying to slide under the radar of this law, counting on not being “caught.” Some have had their businesses shut down with penalties when immigration officials conduct random employment checks.

In another example, if you own a B & B and are caught making breakfast for your guests when an immigration agent pops by, you run the risk of deportation, among other severe penalties. Like most countries in the world, the Costa Rican employment laws are designed to protect the rights of the working howlermag.com

citizens of this country.

Some of the legal requirements to work here are: • You must either be a citizen of Costa Rica or have legal Permanent Residency. This does not include being in the country on a Tourist Visa, even long-term.

• You have an annual work permit.

Employer responsibilities

Once legal employees are hired for the business, it is important to understand your requirements as an employer. Not all the employment laws can be covered in this article. We will focus on one of the most important, relating to employee benefit requirements.

Social Security Benefits These are payments to the Costa Rican Social Security Fund (CAJA). Both the employee and the employer are required to pay CAJA fees. This includes payments for the retirement benefits for the employee and for healthcare coverage.

Employers are required to pay 26.33 percent of the employee’s salary to CAJA and employees must pay 9.34 percent. It is the employer’s responsibility to collect the employee’s portion from salary amounts. In total, the employer pays CAJA a total of 35.67 percent of the employee’s earnings.

For example, if your employee earns $100 USD, you must pay $35.67 to CAJA, from which $26.33 is your share and $9.34 is the employee’s.

Vacation Depending on the amount of time worked, an employee will have a certain number of paid vacation days per year. The employee has the right to receive two weeks of vacation per work period of 50 consecutive weeks.

Aguinaldo This is a Christmas bonus, which must be paid within the first 20 days in December.

The aguinaldo is calculated according to the employee’s average monthly salary between December 1 and November 30 (12-month cycle preceding December 1).

Like all countries, the labor laws in Costa Rica are extensive. Future Howler articles will cover more of them. In addition, we will look at other types of businesses, such as those with no employees.

The biggest takeaway for Howler readers is that it’s important to follow the laws in the country where you’re residing. Obtain reliable legal advice to ensure you are compliant. Ignorance of the law is no excuse.

We should all embrace a system that protects the residents of the country where we operate a business.

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CR BIZ

REAL ESTATE 101

Choosing a Property Management Company

by Jodee Lynette

You will never regret reading and understanding a property management contract.

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o you decided to buy property in Costa Rica but you can’t live here full time — yet. Now you need to manage and maintain your property and costs while you wait to make your dreams come true here.

Ideally, you can find ways for the property to “pay for itself ” and be occupied.

This is usually done by renting it long-term to one tenant or by allowing it to be used as a vacation rental. Both offer the advantage of your property not sitting empty for long periods of time and income to cover its costs.

A long-term property rental will provide a stable income and can continue months without a bump. Vacation rentals can make extra money from higher rental prices, but entail more frequent management tasks.

Both require oversight for a smoother experience.

A property management company can take care of everything while you’re busy working and keeping your daily life on track elsewhere. It can provide great solutions and results, helping you to treasure and enjoy your second home in paradise with no regrets.

In Costa Rica, there are many property managers to choose from. You will have a better experience if you take the time and give serious thought to selecting the right one. Here are some actions and considerations.

Read the contract

Read it from beginning to end. If you don’t understand something in the contract, ask!

I know it can look daunting and it’s hard to focus while sipping your margarita poolside. But you will never regret reading and understanding a property management contract. It’s almost a guarantee you will regret it if you don’t.

Understand the fees

There are many ways for a property management company to make money. Most of them are legitimate and hard-earned, but there can be some that you wish you had paid attention to.

For example, be clear about these aspects of repairs, renovations and cleaning.

• Is there a percentage mark-up on repairs and renovations?

• Contracts should specify a limited dollar amount for repairs, maintenance, improvements or renovations that the property management company can spend without owner approval. Keep that amount low. Make sure the repairs are needed and double-check your warranty for possible cost coverage.

• Is there a percentage mark-up on cleaning supplies and other supplies?

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Are these supplies being used only for your own property or for others in the rental pool of your property management company?

Online listings

A property management company will list your property on many online travel agencies (OTAs), otherwise known as booking sites, as well as real estate sites, websites, social media and more. Most contracts will address the owner giving permission to the manager to create these listings but I have rarely seen a contract that addresses who owns these listings when the relationship between owner and manager ends.

This is quite a slippery slope and it will never end in your favor. If the property manager has the username and password to the OTAs and other online listing sites, it is very difficult — if not impossible — for you to gain “ownership” of those property listings.

That means if you decide to change property management companies or start doing the job yourself, any search engine optimization or page

positioning advantage your property has earned is lost and you start at the bottom again. It means that if the company took professional pictures, which you no doubt paid for, you won’t have access to those pictures. It means you lose all those great reviews. I could go on but I think you are feeling the pain just thinking about this.

Make sure that there is a clause in the contract stating that you have proprietary ownership of all your property listings that aren’t on the management company’s private sites. It should stipulate that when the contract ends, or at any time, you will receive all the usernames and passwords for your listing on all internet and social media sites. Otherwise, if you decide to change directions with your property, the management company you’ve been dealing with can hold you hostage. You may never feel free to make another independent decision about your property again if you don’t own your web presence.

Ask questions

Are the owners and managers local? This is a

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key question.

Some property management companies are run by owners or managers who have the same dream as you do. They want to live in paradise full-time but haven’t quite figured out how to do that.

Don’t get me wrong, quite a few property management operations can and are done “remotely.” It is understandable if certain company management components are done by someone who is not local. But, there is a huge part of the business that does require a local presence and oversight.

Paying attention to the following aspects of managing your property requires local owners and managers: • Responding to the needs of vacation rental guests or longer-term tenants.

• Going to the property and inspecting it when it has been vacant for a while.

• Showing your property to prospective customers.

• Responding to repair and maintenance needs.

• Knowing the local service providers for bigger issues.

• Most importantly, oversight of these activities.

These are just a few of the reasons why you want to be sure the property management company you choose has a strong local presence.

Some other questions could include: • What is the company’s experience in property management?

• What is its experience here in Costa Rica with property management?

• Is property management the main business or is it doing other things?

If so, what else (is it a related business)?

• How many properties does the company manage? Why so many?

Why so few?

• How are tenants screened?

• What type of management software

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does the company use? Is there an owner portal?

• Can it provide references?

These are just a few of the many questions you should be asking. In a condo situation where there are many rental or vacation units to choose from, how can you be sure the property management company is giving yours a fair rotation as people are booking?

See the results

One of the most important pieces of information you need in choosing a property management company is the results — current and past. Try to see for yourself firsthand, to the greatest extent possible, by asking.

• Ask for a tour of a few properties the company manages. Assuming you will be shown the company’s best or favorite locations, you should be able to notice, in the details, how much attention or neglect the property is experiencing.

• Ask for references. Then actually check them out with other property owners. Let them talk.

• Ask for a list of other properties the company manages and check reviews on the internet.

Marketing

Although the care of the property and the service that guests and owners receive is important, if the property management company does not have a good marketing approach, your property will sit empty. It’s important to find out what the company does to market its properties.

• What OTAs does it use?

• What social media is it active on?

• What does the company website look like? Can it build a website for just your property? Can its reservation software be connected to your individual website?

• How does the company actively keep its marketing current and fresh?

• Does it personally show properties to potential customers and will you get a report when there are showings?

• Get a list of the company’s properties and go look at them on the internet.

Do a google search. Check out those properties on booking sites. Are they just sitting there or is there activity? Check calendars to confirm occupancy claims.

If you are talking to agents who are good at sales you will know it, because they are working hard to sell you their service. If they aren’t selling you on using their service, then how can they be selling your property to a potential tenant or vacation renter?

After the contract is signed

Don’t disappear after the contract is signed. If you show that you are paying attention to your property, then the company will pay more attention too.

• Ask to receive a report every time your property is shown, and a weekly report when it sits empty.

• Seek out second opinions on repairs, maintenance, and renovations.

• You can turn over all the calls you receive to the management company but then follow up with the prospect to make sure they were contacted.

• Stay tapped into how the company is promoting your property, both passively and actively. Your attention will encourage it to pay more attention to your property.

Owning a property that you don’t live in full-time can be a daunting experience. If you choose the right management company, it can be a joy that brings you pura vida peace and tranquility for many years to come.

Choose wisely.

howlermag.com

BUY PROPERTY THE LOCAL WAY - BANK OWNED -

Lots starting at $20,000 financing available

Santa Rosa Estate - Guanacaste Development Lots from 500m2 to 5000m2 • Water and Electricity Centrally located - Close to Beaches

Freddy A. Espinoza Aguilar freddyea@desyfin.fi.cr

Telephone: 2667-1020 x2504 or 7161-3931 www.desyfin.fi.cr

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 15

CR BIZ

BANK OPTIONS

Why Belize is Suitable for Offshore Banking

by Luigi Wewege

When it comes to offshore banking solutions, would-be clients can certainly feel overwhelmed with the plethora of choices available. Yet, over the last couple of years, Belize has become a go-to for many investors looking for security, stability and new investment opportunities. Here, Luigi Wewege, Senior Vice President of Caye International Bank, writes on the unique benefits that Belize has to offer, and how it has become the region of choice for savvy investors from all over the world. Caye International Bank was recently recognized by Wealth & Finance INTL as the ‘Best Offshore Private Bank in Latin America’ in the 2019 Banking Excellence Awards.

O

ffshore banking has long been a popular option for those who want to secure their financial future, whether that be for their dream retirement or, more simply, to ensure that their liquid savings are safe and secure in the hands of expert financial establishments.

When you bring up the idea of offshore banking, it’s not unusual to get a dozen different opinions about where the best tax haven is or where banks are most eager to get foreign investors. Look beyond all the noise and you’ll find that Belize is consistently chosen by savvy investors for offshore banking.

Clearly, Belize has a lot to offer those interested in the financial side of the equation.

Ease of banking in Belize

Something that can’t be ignored is the ease of managing an offshore bank account in Belize. Some people are worried about offshore banking because they don’t know what to expect, or they are worried about it being difficult or inconvenient. In reality, that misconception couldn’t be further from the truth.

To start, the official language of Belize is English.

Although you might hear Spanish, or even Creole is spoken on the beach, financial professionals all have

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a complete and fluent command of English. Whether you’re signing a contract or reading the terms of a new account, it will be in English. You won’t need a translator, nor will you have to pay to have English documents translated. In short, there is no need to be concerned about a language barrier at any point.

Another reason that banking in Belize is so convenient is the time zone. Belize is located in the Central Standard Time Zone (CST). That means it is the same time on Ambergris Caye, Belize, as it is in Chicago. Some people are concerned that offshore banking means getting on the phone in the middle of the night with banking staff, but that’s not the case in Belize. Banks operate during normal office hours, which just so happens to coincide perfectly with most North American hours of business.

Of course, you may not want to communicate over the phone about your offshore banking needs at all. Fortunately, the convenience of banking in Belize also extends to online banking services. As long as you have access to an internet connection and a smartphone, tablet, or computer, you can transfer money or check your account balances with the click of a button.

howlermag.com

Unparalleled asset protection and privacy

In decades past, certain nations held a monopoly on banking privacy and anonymity. As those destinations received more and more publicity, however, banking clients actually received more scrutiny, not less.

In Belize, banks still operate in a way that grants account holders and businesses financial privacy as well as asset protection. This doesn’t mean that you can open a bank account anonymously or avoid taxation in your home country. What it does mean is that once your assets are placed in a bank account in Belize, those assets are far more secure than they would be elsewhere. If you face lawsuits or the freezing of your assets in the future, your accounts in Belize will remain secure. Plus, those who operate businesses within Belize can protect the identities of board members or shareholders if desired.

Diversification is key

Reputable banking systems

People delve into offshore banking for varied reasons.

However, one of the most common is to diversify financial holdings. A basic tenet of Economics 101 is that in order to reduce risk, you need to diversify. Many people diversify but continue to maintain their holdings within a single country’s jurisdiction. Ultimately, true diversification also includes geographic diversification. Although Belize offers a chance to invest in a new geographic location, it also offers all the things you expect in a secure financial environment. This allows for diversification without the stress of learning a new banking system or even a new legal system. Belize operates according to common-law systems similar to those you find in Britain, the United States, or Canada.

If you choose to bank offshore in Belize, then it makes sense to bank with an institution that is established, financially solvent and recognized for its banking excellence. When selecting a bank, ensure it is compliant with necessary regulations and is licensed to provide international banking services to both corporations and individuals. Caye International Bank certainly fits these criteria.

Discover banking in Belize

Clearly, plenty of investors around the world appreciate what Belize has to offer and choose this location to assist in asset diversification. When looking for the best locations for offshore banking and investing, you’ll be hard-pressed to find any more favorable than Belize.

Secure your future with private offshore banking

San Pedro Town, Ambergris Caye, Belize, Central America Telephone: +501-226-2388 or +501-226-3083 services@cayebank.bz www.cayebank.bz HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 17

CR BIZ

LEGALEASE

Tax Reform FAQs

by Ivan Granados

O

n July 1, 2019, major Costa Rican tax reforms went into effect nationwide.

Lack of adequate government information beforehand has led to quite a bit of misinformation being circulated on social media and elsewhere. Many expats and locals alike are left confused and with questions. Here are some of the most frequently asked questions and our answers.

1.

2.

The tax reforms do not affect the protections provided by forming a Costa Rican corporation.

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Under the new laws, does having — or forming — a corporation still protect a business owner or property owner from lawsuits/liability?

Yes. The tax reforms do not affect the protections provided by forming a Costa Rican corporation. Corporations still offer the advantages of liability protection, flexibility, and greater ease in handling estate/probate matters. Our most recent LegalEase article, in the July/August 2019 issue, elaborates.

What are the dates of the new Fiscal Year (FY) 2020?

The next FY will be extraordinary, running from October 1, 2019 to December 31, 2020.

Beginning in 2021, the annual FY will begin on January 1 and end on December 31.

3. Do I need to file a monthly tax form (for $0) if my corporation is inactive?

If the corporation is “inactive” — meaning no income or no activity that generates income, and not registered as taxpayer — there is no need for monthly tax filing.

However, law 9635 does require that a new tax form be submitted to disclose the assets and/ or patrimony of the corporation. This must be done yearly. We are still waiting on final information about this from the Tax Office.

4. How are the extra three months in FY 2019 being handled for payment of annual taxes? Will the three months be paid separately or will the annual tax filing be for the full 15 months?

Taxpayers must submit their 2019 filings as usual, with the current FY ending September 30, 2019.

NOTE: October, November and December 2019 will be a part of FY 2020 and considered a special term.

5. Are there any new taxes related to education costs or fees?

Yes. Any school costs (public or private), as long as the school has been approved by MEP or CONENSUP, will be tax exempt. If the school is not approved by those government agencies, there will be a 13 percent tax applied.

After-school activities are now taxed at 2 percent or 13 percent, depending on the activity. This applies to public and private schools. It includes sports activities. This applies to anything that you are paying directly to the school, as these activities are considered services.

6. What taxes are new regarding healthcare?

There is a new 4 percent tax on private healthcare fees specific to doctors, hospitals and clinics approved by the Ministry of Health. Also, depending on your method of payment (cash or credit card), that tax is handled in a different way.

If you pay for your doctor’s visit with a credit card, that 4 percent tax will be charged to you and subsequently reimbursed to you. If you pay with cash, the 4 percent tax will not be reimbursed to you. Any aesthetic procedures will be taxed at 13 percent.

These are just some of the most frequently asked questions regarding tax reforms in Costa Rica. Several other questions have been raised that we are unable to cover in this magazine article. For answers and more details, visit howlermag.com/legalease.

howlermag.com

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 19

CR BIZ

Costa Rica's First Lady, Claudia Dobles visits to learn about the project.

Fruits of Their Labor

by Nicole Rangel

Reserva Conchal Helps Local Women Provide for Their Families and Community

W

DOING BUSINESS RIGHT

hat happens when women sharing a desire to be entrepreneurs see their husbands working hard at a company with strong community values and support? Hortalizas Najui (Najui Vegetables) is a Guanacaste partnership between five such likeminded women in collaboration with Reserva Conchal and the National Agricultural Technology Institute (INTA). The joint initiative is already showing impressive results in generating sustainable income for the womens’ families and organic produce for the community.

Four of the original women have spent countless hours learning about horticulture, farming, hydroponics and pH levels to develop the first organic vegetable and herb garden at Reserva Conchal. The goal is to supply 20 percent of the produce to the onsite restaurants and the remaining harvest will be sold by the growers to Reserva Conchal employees and the local community. INTA has been beside them all along, teaching every required skill and working with Reserva Conchal to find the perfect location on its 930-hectare property for creating the farm-to-table organic garden.

Three puzzle pieces

INTA has spent many years studying Costa Rica’s diverse ecosystems and how to support

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agriculture in each one. For Guanacaste, the key challenges include dryness during half of the year and elevations near sea level.

For Hortalizas Najui, which was the closest project to the ocean, INTA opted to recreate the casa malla (farm-to-table) model used in other locations and has experimented to find the best combination of hydration and nutrients to cultivate the current crops.

The Reserva Conchal farm-totable organic garden can be seen on the road between Huacas and Brasilito, across from the bomberos (fire station). It incorporates a hydroponic watering system hat recycles the water daily. In addition, compost produced on-site from the resort’s hotel wastes provides fertile growing soil. (Learn more about waste management at Reserva Conchal in a May 2019 Howler article.)

Hortalizas Najui supports Reserva Conchal’s triple bottom line strategy, in which financial, social and environmental sustainability are valued equally. The women involved are not only able to give back financially to their families, but also to share their knowledge and sell the fruits of their labor to their neighbors, while supplying the Reserva Conchal restaurants with organically sourced produce. The wider impact is to empower women in the community and support local business, consistent

with the core beliefs of Reserva Conchal and its parent company, Florida Ice and Farm Co. (FIFCO).

Uncommon varieties introduced

One of the project’s greatest accomplishments has yielded vegetable varieties not common in this area, such as kale and rugula. The women who worked so diligently to make this possible have taken some of their prized produce home to share with family members and neighbors who have never seen or tasted these types of vegetables. For a community whose diet has been relatively limited, access to more diverse produce options can lead to healthier food choices in the future. Local residents are excited to visit the greenhouse and buy the produce when it’s ready.

“I have been so happy to see these little seeds grow with our love, and to taste these new plants,” says Carolina Canales, whose face shines while describing them. “There is so much to learn; it was hard, but we did it. My family is proud.”

Hortalizas Najui still has some growing pains in terms of fine-tuning the right planting, watering and cultivation for each variety being grown. The first bounty was sold to Reserva Conchal employees in May, with plans for opening to the public in the next few months.

Photos courtesyhowlermag.com of Reserva Conchal

Time now to make your investment in Costa Rica!

Guanacaste’s Gold Coast has a wide selection of properties Many different sizes and prices. Every legal requirement met.

Contactar en español: 7267-3635 - Contact English: 4702-5771 Email: bravoledezma@hotmail.com

Lots and Fincas Tourist Center Condos Condo Complex

Hotels Houses/Cabinas Bars and Restaurants Apartment Buildings HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 21

CR BIZ

ENTREPRENEUR COSTA RICA

Becoming Unstuckable: Your Personal Business Mission

by Joanna Blanco

A business can keep running as always for 24 hours at a stretch, but your mind cannot.

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U

nstuckable may not appear in most conventional dictionaries, but nonetheless has found its place as a business-motivational buzz word.

My mission as a health coach is to help people rebalance their lifestyles in ways that are beneficial and sustainable for physical and mental health. This guidance encompasses business as well. Having an unhealthy relationship with business can create a vicious circle and interfere with our overall well being and happiness.

I commonly see people struggling with one of these two scenarios: doing what they love, or trying to love what they do.

Sometimes, life can bring unfortunate circumstances into our business life, however much we love what we are doing. This can cause anxiety, discomfort and mood changes with potentially destructive consequences for our healthy routine and sense of excellence.

Any situation that has this kind of effect on you mentally can be a red alert for yourself and your business.

Some tools for becoming “unstuck” in this instance, and “unstuckable” moving forward, can be helpful. This is what I recommend to clients.

Clear your mind

There are many ways to do it, depending on the symptoms. I have my favorites.

For anxiety, stress or a foggy mind, I have two primary methods.

1. One involves deep breathing. I like to suggest this 4-7-8 breathing technique that I learned from Dr. Andrew Weil. Repeat these steps three times, several times throughout the day: • Breathe in through your nose, counting to 4.

• Hold your breath, counting to 7.

• Release the air counting to 8.

2. “Take 5” is the other technique that I like.

Simply take five minutes off, whatever you are doing, when you feel like it’s too much at the same time. Use those five minutes to sip a glass of water, eat a snack or make a personal phone call. This break can be enough to help take your mind off the situation that is finding you stuck.

If the situation and your anxiety persists I recommend striving for a change in your routine. It will help to add some activity that helps you eliminate or ease the stress.

For example, meditation can help you relax. You can try waking up earlier and start meditating for five minutes. Alternatively, you can start your day with exercise: yoga, running, swimming or almost any other physical activity can help you to release serotonin. As you might know, serotonin is a neurotransmitter essential for many howlermag.com

physiological functions and feelings of well being.

What you eat also affects your mood. If you are a coffee drinker, check how many cups you are having throughout the day. Even if you think the caffeine won’t prevent you from falling asleep, high amounts can still affect your state of mind.

You might also check the sugar and refined flour content in your diet, and substitute fruits and vegetables. Try to prepare your meals as much as possible at home. Eating healthier enables your body’s detoxing process to function properly. This, in turn, contributes to a clearer mind and better focus to more easily manage your work agenda.

Redo your action plan

When my clients experience symptoms other than those mentioned above, I guide them towards finding a new idea. The first step is to take some time off: 24 hours is a minimum requirement to eliminate confusing thoughts. Remember, a business can keep running as always for 24 hours at a stretch, but your mind cannot.

Also keep in mind that during those 24 hours, your body needs seven to eight hours of sleep. This is necessary both for the mind to rest and the body to recover. It would help even more if you had time to eat appropriately, and time to connect with others, as well as some spare time.

This is my way of telling you that you cannot, and should not try to, work 24 hours straight. If you feel stuck, clear your agenda for one day. After this day off, you should feel as good as new. Then you can redo your action plan — not only for your business but for yourself.

New, good ideas come when you have a good state of mind. By balancing the only 24 hours you have every day between work, diet, physical activity, relaxation and sleep, you can be more assertive with all the steps that follow.

Nutrition Advice / Time Management Body & Mind Wellness

If you are looking for a healthier and happier lifestyle, Follow @MovimientoSattva Joanna Blanco offers tips and ideas to make your goals clear and reachable, and become the best version of yourself.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23

CR BIZ DIRECTORY Real Estate, Property Management

| #searchfindhowl | online

Hermosa del Mar Plaza #7 Mon-Fri, 8-5, Sat, 8-noon 4702-7098 / 2665-8746 info@costarica-brokers.com

GM ATTORNEYS Legal Services Full service in all areas of law Tamarindo, Flamingo & Nosara Mon-Fri, 9-1, 2-5 2654-4367 / 2653-2155 info@gmattorneyscr.com

COMMUNITY CHURCH

24

RE/MAX OCEAN VILLAGE Making Dreams Come True Experienced professional real estate sales team serving the entire Papagayo region Playas del Coco, Ocotal, Playa Hermosa, Playa Panama Daily, 8-5 2670-2175 remax-oceanvillage-cr.com

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Playa Tamarindo 7 days a week, 9-5 2653-0073 www.remax-oceansurf-cr.com

BUILDING SUPPLIES PLAYA HERMOSA

Flamingo, Potrero, Tamarindo Daily 8-5 2654-4010 info@kraincostarica.com

RE/MAX OCEAN SURF & SUN Nobody Sells More Real Estate Sales of residential condos, homes and single-family home sites

Ocotal, Flamingo, Potrero Daily 8-5 2654-4010 info@kraincostarica.com

BROKERS COSTA RICA Property Management & Rentals We specialize in luxury rentals and property management

ATTORNEY

REAL ESTATE & PROPERTY MANAGEMENT

KRAIN Luxury Real Estate Member of Leading Real Estate Companies of the World

KRAIN Luxury Real Estate Member of Leading Real Estate Companies of the World

BOOKSTORE PLAYAS DEL COCO

HORIZON PACIFIC Property Management and Rentals A leader in quality properties and services: Vacation rentals, management, association administration Tamarindo, Plaza Palmas #17 Mon-Sat, 9-5, Sun 9-2 2653-0390 horizonpacificvacations.com

REAL ESTATE & PROPERTY MANAGEMENT

REAL ESTATE & PROPERTY MANAGEMENT

ABC REAL ESTATE Fine Selections by the Beach We offer personalized service and a full range of real estate services Plaza Tamarindo Mon-Fri, 9-5, Sat, 9-1 2653-0404 tamarindo@abccostarica.com

THE BOOKSTORE OF THE WAVES New and Used Bookstore Stamps, mail delivery, free WiFi and so much more Tamarindo 2653-2670 Alei@bookstoreofthewaves.net TheBookStoreoftheWaves

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CEPIA Nonprofit Organization We promote culture, health, sports and education for children Huacas Mon-Sat 2653-8365 cepiacostarica@gmail.com

BEACH COMMUNITY CHURCH Love God, Love Others Come join us on this journey as we discover the Author of Life Brasilito, before CRIA Sun 10am-English, Sat 6pm-Sp. 8621-6273 info@ beachcommunitychurchcr.com howlermag.com

COMMUNITY & SERVICES DIRECTORY

CARIVE PRODUCTIONS Photo and Cinema High-end professional photography and cinematography based in Tamarindo.

Tamarindo 6105-1069 info@cariveproductions.com www.cariveproductions.com

TONY ROBERTS PHOTO VIDEO Complete Photo and Video Services Shoots by appt for sports, portraiture, properties, exterior/ interior and video editing Guanacaste & all Central America (506) 8754-0798 tr@tonyrobertsphoto.com tonyrobertsphoto.com @tonyrobertsphoto @realsurftrips

PEST CONTROL

PHOTOGRAPHY

DENTAL SERVICES

TAMARINDO DENTIST First Dentist in Tamarindo Implants • Orthodontist • Endodontist • Cosmetic Dentistry Tamarindo 24/7 for emergencies 2653-2020 smile@tamarindodentist.com

PHOTOGRAPHY

DENTAL SERVICES

PACIFIC SMILE DENTAL CARE Kids & Adults - English Speaking Highly experienced staff— orthodontics, implants, endodontics, gums Near Auto Mercado, Tamarindo Mon-Fri 9-6, Sat by appt.

2653-4354 info@pacificsmilecr.com

CABO VELAS PEST CONTROL Pest Control - English Speaking Bug Busters is now Cabo Velas Pest Control with 10 years of experience El Llanito, Villarreal Mon-Fri, 7-4 8416-4860 / 8702-6807 bamboopq@yahoo.ca

CAVALLINI VETERINARIAN Animal Hospital Full-service veterinarian hospital for all animals and wildlife Royal Palms Plaza, Santa Rosa M-F, 8-noon, 1-7, Sat, 8-12, 1-4, Sun, 9-noon, 1-5 (pet shop only) 2652-9009 / 8815-5713 (24/7)

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 25

www.FlamingoBeachRealty.com (CR) +506 8402-2795 (US) 1-239-205-5097 Exceptional Service Casa Piedra

$1,980,000 6 beds / 4 baths 4305 sq ft

Aromo - Lot 2

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Walkable to the Beach! No expenses spared!

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Playa Conchal, Reserva Conchal

$595,000

3 bed / 3.5 bath 2648 sq ft Luxury, Ocean View, Gated, Secure, Resort Lifestyle

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Playa Flamingo, Northridge

$425,000

2 bed / 2 bath Steps to the Beach! Walkable to Shops & Restaurants 1300 sq ft

Playa Flamingo, Northridge

| #searchfindhowl | online + 506-2654-6565

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$589,000

Playa Flamingo, Southridge

1559.8m2 of usable land!

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Huge Ocean View Balcony and Back Porch Gated

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360 Southridge Lot

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Playa Potrero, Surfside

26

•

Carao T1-3

Playa Conchal, Reserva Conchal

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Genuine Care

Villa Cielo y Mar

Playa Flamingo, Beachfront

Playa Flamingo, Northridge

•

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Matapalo - 10 Mins to 10 Beaches

Walkable to Grocery and Restaurants

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Flamingo Plaza #B7

$174,900 3 bed / 3 bath 1235 sq ft

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howlermag.com

HOWLER

DINING GUIDE

W Costa Rica – Reserva Conchal Featured Restaurant-Cocina de Mercado Open to the Public

#howlermag #SearchFindHowl howlermag.com/diningguide HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 27

Meet Your Friends at Cocina de Mercado

by Rachel Cherry White

Do not even think about skipping dessert.

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J

ust walking into the W Costa Rica - Reserva Conchal is a feast for the senses. First, you hear the curated music playing in the background. The ocean breeze teases your skin while the haute decor and dazzling Pacific vistas draw your eye. A deep breath consumes the aroma of salty air. But then you detect another scent … savory smells coming from an open kitchen.

The best thing to do when you discover something as amazing as this? Share it with a friend.

The concept at Cocina de Mercado is simple: provide market-fresh, delicious local and international foods in a casual but upscale environment with spectacular staff.

It’s an indoor/outdoor restaurant at the W Costa Rica - Reserva Conchal, open to the public for breakfast, lunch and dinner. A large, open kitchen lets you watch your food being prepared.

Come together or meet up

It’s the perfect place to bring a companion or meet up with your squad.

First decide whether you’ll be enjoying the sunshine outside, or if you’d like to cool off inside with some air conditioning. The views are outstanding either way — the walls are glass, giving indoor diners the same gorgeous panoramas as those lounging in the fresh air.

For breakfast after morning yoga? First,

coffee. Enjoy a latte, then grab some fresh juice at the juice bar. Meander over to the griddle station for pancakes your way.

Warning: if you choose the buffet you won’t be able to eat again until dinner.

For a lunch meeting to talk over proposals, expect fresh, local flavors. Share some ceviche, then opt for a wood-fired pizza, salad, or flavorful chicken breast.

For date night, start with a drink, something with passion fruit perhaps. The grilled octopus is the perfect appetizer, followed by the lamb shank or more seafood.

Do not even think about skipping dessert; the pastry chef is world-class. Consult the menu, since it changes, but each selection is beyond compare (my mouth waters thinking of the delicacies I’ve tried).

League of its own

There are many things that set Cocina de Mercado apart. The chefs are recruited from all over the world for their ambitious and exquisite cooking. The atmosphere is second to none with ocean views and comfortable elegance. And don’t be surprised if your waiter remembers you on your return visit, and offers you your favorite from the last time you were there. The staff is outstanding and always exceeds expectations, for you and all your amigos.

Cocina de Mercado often has special events like brunches and cooking classes. howlermag.com

DINING GUIDE

Cocina de Mercado: Market-inspired restaurant W Costa Rica- Reserva Conchal

With an open kitchen allowing guests to interact with the chef, this market-inspired restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s a casual place to mix and mingle, with both an air-conditioned indoor space and outdoor seating. Breakfast is international with a local flair, featuring café chorreado, a juice bar, pancake stations and more. Lunch and dinner items include salads, brick-oven pizzas and other comfort foods.

Hours Breakfast: Mon-Fri, 6:30-10:30am

Sat, Sun 6:30-11am Lunch: Noon-3pm Dinner: 6-10pm

Juice Bar

Seafood Cazuela

Special Event - W Brunch When: First Sunday of each month 1-4pm

Grilled Salmon Salad

Gnocchi Sorrentina

Buddha Bowl

Prime Rib Eye

MENU SELECTIONS Energy Booster, Body Cleanser, Liver Longer, Power Smoothie, Workout Shake

Prawns, squid, octopus, yellow chilli tomato sauce, rice and corn, broth

Spinach, basil, egg, crutons, yogurt dressing

Tomato, basil, mozzarella

Salmon, soba pasta, syracha, oyster sauce, peanuts and chives

Sides: sweet potato, hand cut fries, mashed potatoes, green salad, creamy semilla potato

ZO NA A ZUL B E AC H C LU B

W Costa Rica Reserva Conchal Hours Dinner: 6-10pm Specialty: “Mixology Dining Experience” - includes 4 signature cocktails paired with 4 L10N dishes

Latitud 10° Norte: Boutique bistro

Explore a labyrinth of exotic flavors in this boutique bistro, serving sophisticated fare.

Must-try: Braised short ribs or shrimp angu

W Costa Rica Reserva Conchal Hours Lunch: Noon-6pm Dinner: 6-10pm Special Events Detox Retox Repeat What: A bottomless brunch at the beach club When: Sundays, noon - 5pm

Zona Azul: Beach Club

An adult playground, come and enjoy the club. Serving up big portions and even bigger flavor.

Must try: Smoky margarita and fire grilled seafood

WHATEVER /WHENEVER® Reservations for every restaurant (or anything else you need at the W) are available at Whatever/Whenever.

Call: 2654-3600

WhatsApp: 8489-7458

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29

DINING GUIDE

JACÓ Jacó downtown, Calle Bohio

Trident Poseidon Restaurant: International Cuisine

Hours Daily, 7am-10pm Happy Hour 4pm-7pm Phone: 2643-1642

Strategically located in downtown Jacó, Poseidon restaurant at Trident Hotel offers a variety of signature plates of international cuisine, as well as all-day specials and vegan options, all cooked with love. Additionally, we offer our hotel services plus our sports bar menu at the famous third-floor Sky Lounge.

Daily Specials Mon: Cheese burger and fries Tue: Beef, chicken or fish casado Wed: Fish burrito and salad Thu: Beef onion cheddar sub Fri: Fish and chips Sat: Asian chicken stir fry Sun: Eggs benedict and mimosa

MENU SELECTIONS Smoked Salmon Dip

Baby Back Ribs

Ribeye USDA choice

Flat Iron Steak

Mahi-Mahi

Babaganoush Tahini eggplant spread with red bell peppers

Fish Ceviche

Mystic Middle East Lentil Stew

Tuna Poke

JACÓ & TAMARINDO

JACÓ

Vegan Putanesca Pasta

Jacó downtown -across form Wishbone Restaurant TAMARINDO - Plaza Tamarindo #4, next to Mr. Toms Hours Daily, 7am-7pm @costajuice506 Find Us in TripAdvisor

Costa Juice: Healthy Food

Smoothie and juice bar with delicious smoothie bowls, specializing in superfoods. Pairing with Avocado Toast, sandwiches and Costa Rican coffee.

Specialties Homemade ingredients such as peanut butter, almond milk, granola and vegan bread Fresh, healthy and delicious

MENU SELECTIONS Costa Bowl

Powerful and tropical. Delight yourself with a dose of Blue Majik which It is known to contributes to the proper functioning of immune system and improves muscle recovery

Avocado Toast

Two slices of fresh bread baked at home and delicious toppings

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Jacó - 500m south of BCR Bank, next to Hotel Tangeri Hours Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri 5:30pm-10:30pm Sat, 11am-11pm Sun, 11am-10pm Closed Tuesdays Phone: 2643-3001

Amara

Mediterranean Cuisine We are a Mediterranean restaurant in the heart of Jaco.

We have A/C on our first floor and an open terrace for private events. We offer local, fresh and top quality ingredients in the preparation of our dishes.

Children's menu, imported wines and friendly staff.

MENU SELECTIONS

Octopus with Hummus Parsely, capers and olive oil

Beef Turkish Gyro Feta cheese and cherry tomatoes

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JACÓ Jacó downtown, 200m south of bridge Hours Tue-Sun, 9am-1am Phone: 2643-4425 Proudly serving

Green Room:

Artisan Food & Drink Freshly prepared locally sourced ingredients serving relaxed brunch, dinner, and cocktails in an urban oasis ... focusing on Costa Rican artisan craft beer.

Specialties Live DJs Tue and Wed Live Music: Thu, Fri and Sat

Pollo Fortuneño: La Fortuna - Arenal: Two locations both on main road. One downtown, the other not far away Hours Daily, 8am-5pm

Proudly serving

MENU SELECTIONS c7500

Fresh tuna, ginger-wasabi aioli, fresh guacamole, pinapple, coleslaw

1/2 Rack Green Room Ribs

Traditional Costa Rican dishes featuring woodfire chicken, beef and ribs. A true pura vida delight.

Specialties Craft beer and live music

Phone: 2479-7475

MENU SELECTIONS Tuna Burger

Wood-Fired Rotisserie

c12,500

Spicy passion fruit BBQ sauce, served with corn on the cob topped with cilantro cream and queso fresco and hand cut fries.

Chicken, Beef or Vegetarian Casado

c4000

Taco Tico

c3000

Traditional dish served with rice, boiled egg, beans, patacon and salad

Corn tortilla stuffed with chicken served with fries and cabbage

LIBERIANA — GOLDEN

KÖLSCH — 4.5% ABV Beer with a light golden color, a very soft and subtle maltiness, with an addition of noble German hops.

SABANERO — SAISON

SAISON — 5.0% ABV Golden in color, with a spicy aroma, fresh and fruity herbal flavor, and a light dry body.

Fresh • Local Award-Winning Craft Beer

CHOROTEGA — IPA

AMERICAN INDIA PALE ALE — 6% ABV Refreshing and with a character as deep as the culture from which its name precedes.

www.numubrewing.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 31

LA FORTUNA - ARENAL

DINING GUIDE

HUACAS

New York Pizzeria 200m west of the Brasilito/ Huacas crossroads, Huacas www.nypizzeriahuacas.com @nypizzeriahuacas

Delivery Available!

Hours Daily, 5pm-10:30pm Phone: 2653-6296 8729-5640

Pizzeria

New York Pizzeria is your go-to pizza spot in Guanacaste, for an authentic New York style pizza.

Dine-in or take-out available.

Enjoy!

Specialties Authentic New York style pizza Freshly made breadsticks

MENU SELECTIONS

Huacas: Main road, north side halfway between Super Compro and intersection to Brasilito Hours Daily, 6am - 9pm Phone: 2653-6273

Soda Guaymy

Typical Costa Rican Food If you want great quality typical Costa Rican food and an ice-cold beer, Soda Guaymy's delivers! And its as economical as it gets!

jimemurillo98@hotmail.com

MENU SELECTIONS

Meat Lover's Pizza

Casados

House Special Pizza

Rice with shrimp or chicken

Pepperoni, ham, salami, bacon, and ground beef

Pepperoni, ham, mushrooms, onions, and sweet peppers

HUACAS 3km south of Huacas, road to Tamarindo Hours Daily, 7am-9pm Breakfast 7am-10am

Fish, chicken and beef served with rice, beans and whatever is fresh A traditional favorite: Arroz con camerones o pollo

La Playita: Poolside Dining Located at the Seis Playas Hotel, La Playita Restaurant & Bar is open to hotel guests and the public and is known for its friendly and inviting environment. It is the ideal setting for sharing good food and drinks with family and friends, or a romantic dinner poolside while enjoying the convenient distance to our six local beaches.

MENU SELECTIONS

Phone: 2653-6818 info@seisplayashotel.com

Broken Yolk Sandwich

$12

Pasta

Specialties Food cooked to your taste! — con mucho gusto Friday Night Texas Barbecue

Breakfast Quesadilla

$12

Open Grill

BLT La Playita

$10

Fried egg, bacon or ham and cheese on toast, served with seasonal fruit Eggs, tomato, onion, sweet pepper and cheese, served with seasonal fruit Always a favorite for a light bite to eat: bacon, lettuce and tomato

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$14

Build your own pasta bowl, with a mixed salad

From $16

Pork tenderloin, chicken breast, ribeye, New York strip, beef tenderloin & catch of the day

Pineapple FlambĂŠ

$4

Our most popular dessert served hot with vanilla ice cream

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HUACAS

DINING GUIDE

Hours Daily, 8am - 9:30pm Breakfast, 8-11am Lunch, 11am-5pm Dinner, 5-9pm Happy-Hour 4-6pm Sunday Brunch 8am-2pm Phone: 2653-0480 ripjackinn.com

Pots & Bowls:

Tree Top Dining

A diverse menu that includes fresh local seafood as well as tasty treats from the land, crisp salads, veggie bowls, local dishes and options for kids!

Specialties Smoothie bar, fresh and frozen cocktails, bocas menu, vegetarian menu available, gluten-free options, full service for retreats and weddings.

Main road to Playa Grande Hours Daily, 8am - 5pm Phone: 4701-2394 potsandbowls@gmail.com

MENU SELECTIONS

Served with a yogurt cilantro lime sauce, mixed veggies and grilled polenta

Greek Chicken

Grilled chicken breast with a creamy caper sauce served with roasted Mediterranean vegetables & cauliflower rice

MATAPALO

Hours Wed-Mon, 11am-midnight Tue, 4-midnight Phone: 8567-2493

Fresh, healthy and fun. Focus on homemade ingredients. Different dietary options: gluten-free, lactose-free vegan.

Specialties Coffee, plants and pots Costa Rican boutique Workshops

MENU SELECTIONS

Grilled Mahi

Matapalo: Main square on the way to Playa Grande

Coffee Shop and Plants

Salón Victoria:

Costa Rican Cuisine

Lively locals' bar and restaurant.

Come and enjoy great food and good times.

Specialties Great cocktails Amazingly delicious menu options with locals’ pricing

MENU SELECTIONS

Acai – Banana and OJ

Blackberries, chia, homemade granola & banana

$9

Tuna Poke $14 Sushi rice, avocado, edamame, wakame, mango

8 min. drive from Tamarindo, 2km south Villarreal Hours By reservation Phone: 8869-9765 Specialties Zipline and BBQ buffet for only $85.

Black Stallion:

Rustic Outdoor BBQ

Dine with the stars of Guanacaste on a private ranch. Enjoy a delicious BBQ buffet with sides. Wine, beer and sangria included! Call for reservations.

Available for private parties and events.

MENU SELECTIONS

Whole Fried Red Snapper

c4000

Shrimp ceviche

c2500

Arroz con pollo

c1800

Mixed BBQ Buffet

$45

Seafood Buffet

$45

Baby back ribs, chorizo and chicken, sides included A delicious array of seafood and sides dishes

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 33

VILLARREAL

PLAYA GRANDE

Rip Jack Inn

Playa Grande proper

PLAYA GRANDE

DINING GUIDE

DINING GUIDE

PLAYA FLAMINGO

SOMEWHERE OMEWHERE BAR AR Margaritaville Beach Resort, Playa Flamingo Hours Daily from 4pm - 11pm Happy hour: 4:30-6:30 Phone: 2654-4444, ext. 3264 Specialties Nachos, tacos, burgers, salads and sandwiches

World Famous Margaritas!

5 o'Clock Somewhere Bar & Grill: Drinks and Casual Dining Best place on the Gold Coast to take in panoramic oceanfront views and multi-screen sports TV while enjoying hand-crafted cocktails and a delicious casual dining menu. You will want to return again and again for juicy cheeseburgers and mouthwatering tacos, not to mention the perfect margaritas and other specialty cocktails. Enjoy a beautiful sunset view during the daily Happy Hour 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday nights feature live entertainment with the best of the area's local bands and musical talent.

Live Music

Regularly Scheduled Check Schedule and updates at 5 o ´clock somewhere facebook page

@ 5oCSBG

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A perfect blend of Costa Rican and international cuisine that includes freshly caught local fish and grass-fed beef. Enjoy the oceanfront sea breeze on the outdoor patio or dine inside in air-conditioned comfort.

An Italian bistro with a tropical view.

Choose from a selection of pizzas, pastas and paninis, or build your own dish with a variety of fresh, delicious ingredients.

Hours Daily 6:30am to 9:30pm breakfast, lunch, dinner

Hours Daily 5pm to 11:30pm Pizza only from 9:30pm

Phone: 2654-4444 ext. 3269

Phone: 2654-4444 ext. 3268

Specialties Fresh fish, grass-fed beef, international buffets, kids menu

Specialties Specialty artisanal pizza oven; design your own pizzas and pastas

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Hours Daily, 5:30pm-10:30pm Closed Wednesday Phone: 8532-8613 Specialties Perfectly grilled ribeye, fish, pizza and, of course, pastas

Italian Restaurant True Italian cuisine. Pasta like you are in Roma! Fresh bruschetta served when you arrive. We've been told countless times, we have the best grilled ribeye in Costa Rica. Buon appetito!

Hours Breakfast, 8-11am Lunch and Dinner, 11am -10pm Kitchen closes 9pm

Phone: 6150-0994 @PotreroGrill

Steakhouse and Pizzeria

We are a family-oriented, quaint restaurant with friendly, personable staff and great food.

Specialties Amazing steaks, ribs, pizza

20 oz T-Bone

Cooked to you perfection and served with fresh sides

c6.500

Ribeye c7.500

Potrero, 800m north of Banco Nacional

Hours Fri-Wed, 5pm-11pm Closed Thursdays

Potrero Grill:

MENU SELECTIONS

MENU SELECTIONS House Lasagna

Potrero Behind Perla's and La Forketta

BBQ Baby Back Ribs Goat Cheese Stuffed Chicken

The Beach House: Beachfront Dining Renowned for its fresh seafood, this quaint restaurant and bar was transformed from a private residence. Come and enjoy incredible food with awesome sunsets and views of the Pacific Ocean.

MENU SELECTIONS

Phone: 2654-6203

Grilled Scallops

Shrimp Ceviche

Specialties Fresh seafood Epic sunset view Call for reservations

Catch of the Day

Bang Bang Shrimp

Seafood Platter

Grilled Lobster Tails

Now serving breakfast

Grilled in a bath of Cacique liquor, lime and garlic With tropical salsa, grilled vegetables & potatoes or rice Fresh mahi mahi, grilled jumbo shrimp, sautĂŠed calamari, with rice pilaf and grilled vegetables

Peruvian style marinated shrimp, red pepper and onion, tomato and cilantro with plantain chips Crispy, creamy, sweet, and spicy shrimp in cornmeal breading with tangy Thai chili sauce Two roasted lobster tails in wine-garlic butter sauce with grilled vegetables and rosemary potatoes

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 35

SURFSIDE / POTRERO

PLAYA FLAMINGO

Flamingo - 100m south of road to Potrero

Vaca Loka:

SURFSIDE / POTRERO

DINING GUIDE

DINING GUIDE

LAS CATALINAS

At Casa Chameleon, 4km north of the Potrero soccer field Hours Daily, 7am-10pm No children under 12 years Phone: 2103-1200 concierge@ casachameleonhotels.com Specialties Fresh fish, sunset cocktails, "boquitas" menu

Sentido Norte: Fine Dining Sentido Norte, a restaurant and bar at Casa Chameleon, proudly offers an adult fine-dining experience that celebrates the best of Costa Rican cuisine. Your drive through winding roads above the quaint beach town of Las Catalinas is rewarded by an unforgettable but affordable taste of luxury.

Just a few steps uphill from the bright and welcoming entrance, your table awaits in a gorgeous, open-air perch framed by a panoramic view of the Pacific. A design motif incorporating responsibly-sourced teak adds a sense of warmth and well-being to the romantically lit atmosphere. All food and drinks are inspired by the country’s bountiful abundance, combining uniquely local and native ingredients in the glass and on the plate.

MENU SELECTIONS Overnight Oats

$8

Casa Chameleon Burger $19

Guacamole and Salsa

$12

French Toast

$12

Ceviche $14

Moules Frities

$26

Knife & Fork Tortillas

$14

Grilled Chicken Wrap

$17

Grilled Skirt Steak

$32

Chicharrón or vegan huevos rancheros

With greens, avocado & tomato, spicy aioli

Vegan Omelettes

$14

Vegan Bowl

$19

Mushroom Lamb Risotto $33

With almond milk, yogurt, fruit, cashews, local honey or tapa dulce

With sweet plantains and coconut milk cream

With asparagus, mushrooms and caramelized onion

Angus burger with arugula, Swiss or goat cheese and aioli Fresh fish ceviche, leche de tigre, homemade "chilero"

Quinoa, mushroom and squash picadillo salad, spicy garbanzo beans

Hearts of palm ceviche, avocado & tomato Wok sautéed with garlic butter and chardonnay broth

Skirt steak, chimichurri sauce, salad, french fries

Slowly braised with porcini, portobello and crimini mushrooms

Prices shown include 13% tax and 10% service / Prices subject to change

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 37