ANATOMY OF A DESIGN

ANATOMY OF A DESIGN THE BIB APRON

Rachel WytheMoran and Simon

Watkins, founders of Labour and Wait, on an apron that has come to define their brand

Interview: Viel Richardson

The requirement Simon Watkins: Initially we only designed the apron for us. When we opened the first Labour and Wait shop, it was Rachel and I behind the counter and we needed something protective to wear. We also wanted it to act like a kind of uniform when we were on duty. We wanted something very practical, hard wearing and functional. We were moving boxes around, unpacking crates, climbing ladders, that sort of thing, and we needed something practical to cover ourselves with while we worked. We also wanted something that would sit well next to the kind of things that we were selling, such as household products, tools for the kitchen and garden – practical things. It was actually Rachel who designed and made those first aprons, they were never intended to be for sale. from. As hard as we looked, we couldn’t find what we wanted. So, after giving up on that, we decided to make our own.

The process Rachel Wythe-Moran: The design has gone through a few iterations as we have used the aprons over time. That first bib apron was loosely based on a couple of aprons that I had made for myself before we had the shop. It was long, but it didn’t cover the chest area. It was along the lines of a waiter’s apron, but in our brown canvas. It also didn’t have any pockets. After a while we decided we needed something that had a pocket and also covered more of the body. That was when the essential bib apron we have today was born; it came out of our experiences wearing the aprons in the shop and was very much based in practicality. The

The inspiration Rachel Wythe-Moran: At that time, there wasn’t really anything like this around. There were lots of chef’s aprons, butcher’s aprons, that kind of thing, but not the exact style of apron we were looking for. We knew that the aesthetic of our business was harking back to shops of the past, both in the customer experience and the feel. We kept looking at these old photos of shops and the kind of apron we kept seeing in those images was precisely what we wanted. The shopkeepers would very often be wearing brown aprons. That colour was quite an important aspect of the design – there was something about the colour brown that really appealed to us. We knew that the final apron not only had to be brown, but a shade of brown that evoked the era we were taking inspiration

main pocket was added first and was large enough to hold a useful amount of stock or tools while you worked. It has a gusset which allows the pocket to be a bit wider, which is very useful. We later added the top pocket for smaller things like pens. With the neck ties, we fed them through the brass eyelets instead of attaching them permanently, as that made it easier for people to really get the best fit for themselves. I think we finally settled on this version of the design about two years after opening the shop.

The materials Simon Watkins: First and foremost, our apron had to be made from a robust fabric, as it had to survive hard usage in the shop environment, and of course the colour had to be right. We always like to use UK suppliers whenever we can, and Rachel found the fabric – a cotton duck fabric – at a company called Russell and Chapple, who are actually an art supplies company. I think it’s a fabric that’s mainly used for theatre backdrops. Their shop was where Rachel had first bought the material for her prototypes and we still use them today. We wanted something hardwearing but also something that came across as a good, honest, workmanlike material. While there have been several iterations – and two other apron designs – we have always used the same cloth.

The philosophy Simon Watkins: This apron is an object that fits in with the aesthetic of Labour and Wait and has been part of the company since day one. It represents who we are. Even now, when we make our own jeans, we use this cloth as the patch on the back. This material has come to represent the core idea of the company, and that has happened because of the popularity that this apron, which is now sold all over the world, has maintained over two decades.

LABOUR AND WAIT 48 Dorset Street, W1U 7NE labourandwait.co.uk

TEAL GLASS WATER BOTTLE

CAROLINE GARDNER, £20 carolinegardner.com

GHANAIAN BICYCLE BASKET

TOAST, £65 toa.st

PICNIC ACCESSORIES

THE EDIT

TBC TBC tbc

ENAMEL TUMBLER

DAYLESFORD, £12 daylesford.com

YETI TUNDRA 35 COOLER

THE CONRAN SHOP, £250 conranshop.co.uk

OUTDOOR SALIYA NOIR RUG

DESIGNERS GUILD, £190-£360 designersguild.com

WHITE MELAMINE PICNIC PLATE

THE WHITE COMPANY, £10 thewhitecompany.com

CARLOS MONTEIRO

Alexander Technique Teacher

The Alexander Technique throws the spotlight on unnecessary tension. Often, we are unaware of bad habits we develop in the way we use our bodies. This leads to all sorts of psycho-physical pain.

These bad habits can cause shortness of breath, tight shoulders, painful lower back, tiredness, quick fits of temperament and accelerated heart rate, to name a few.

During a session, through the teacher’s hands-on guidance and verbal instructions, we learn how to stop those habitual patterns of reactions.

We can all learn how to deal with these habits and generate more freedom within ourselves. We can develop a bit more ease, a state of balance in our daily activities, and an increase in vitality and wellbeing.

Please contact me for more information:

Mobile (WhatsApp): +44 78 26 86 81 12 Email: contact@carlosalexandertechique.co.uk Website: carlosalexandertechnique.co.uk Address: 18 Hayes Place, NW1 6UA (5 minutes’ walk from Marylebone station)

Royal Oak Health, Your Local Wellness Expert

British-Made Award Winner Royal Oak Health gives priority to British ingredients and sources the best from all over the world. Unlike many brands, which mainly target older people, we have created a range of products also suitable for the younger generation, especially university students and office workers with busy, fast-paced lives.

Our British-made supplements are available on Amazon, through our website royaloakhealth.co.uk, or in our central London shop at 4 Glentworth Street, NW1 5PG.

Please quote the code ROH22 for a 10% discount online or in store.

SMALL MERCIES

Adnan Mohammed of Mr and Mrs Small on small dogs, big life choices, and the importance of living in the moment

Interview: Jackie Modlinger It’s a Sunday morning and we’re having coffee at Mr and Mrs Small. Outside, children’s faces are pressed against the vitrine, enchanted by the dogs inside. Unlike in the song, though, the doggies in the window are not for sale. And this is no ordinary caff.

Through the doors, dogs are running up and down between low tables, leather sofas, tub chairs and bar stools. Along the wall hang polaroids of regular canine clients, part of the Mr and Mrs Small family. Mr and Mrs Small offers small-dog day care and a grooming salon, with optional extras including a Regent’s Park walk, behavioural assessment and a special ‘Small’ massage. Owners, meanwhile, can enjoy fresh pastries and all manner of coffees, teas and cold drinks.

I’m greeted by Obi, the house dog, a perky pomeranian, and his owner Adnan Mohammed, whose brainchild this venture is. Inevitably, it’s Obi who’s the starting point of our conversation. Obi, I learn, is a very lucky boy – a rescue puppy, who was abandoned, left in a box, under-nourished and with immune system issues. Adnan found him through a charity, adopted him at six weeks old and nursed him back to health. “He’s the first dog I’ve owned. I’d quit my job and just wanted to take some time out – that was around June 2018,” recalls Adnan, who has lived in Marylebone for more than 20 years. “Dogs have a very positive impact on our lives. The greatest thing is that they live in the moment and when you’re around them, you have no choice but to live in the moment too. That mindfulness – and unconditional love – gives you a sense of calmness.”

Q: What inspired you to open a canine cafe?

A: I was working for the Deutsche Verkehrs Bank and travelling the world. I spent some time in LA, which is a very dog-friendly place. I saw a lot of canine pet-care stores. What appealed to me was this day care concept, which made a big difference to people’s lives. Initially my interest was personal – how would I manage a dog with my working lifestyle? It’s a big thing when you turn up somewhere and you just don’t feel welcome because you’ve got a dog. I thought, how do I rectify this? I felt that it was the right time to create a centre where people, with or without dogs, are welcomed with open arms.

Q: How did the name come about?

A: Firstly, because I was sometimes responsible for a dog called Mr Small and secondly, our day care is focused on small dogs. Mixing small and large dogs is quite challenging, especially when they’re playing. It can be a recipe for unintentional injuries. Also, given the space we’ve got, it was >

appropriate. Bigger dogs can come in too, absolutely – the only aspect of it that applies to smaller dogs is the day care. But the majority of dogs that live in or visit the area fall within our criteria.

Q: What does your grooming service involve?

A: Everything is geared towards the dogs’ wellbeing and happiness. We try to bond, get to know them, get a relationship going. We’re not a factory, so we like to space out appointments. Grooming can be a very traumatic experience for certain dogs, so we really try to spend time with them, getting to know the dogs, so that they leave the premises not only looking good, but more importantly, feeling happy. It is what Mr and Mrs Small stands for.

Q: Tell us more about the cafe aspect.

A: We’ve tried to create a relaxing environment, so that people don’t feel rushed. There’s no better thing for starting up a conversation than having a dog. Friendships develop here. A lot of our customers come through word of mouth: “I’ve found this hidden gem of a place to bring your dog and have a coffee.” Marylebone has a real community, which is hard to find in big cities. It really reminds me of my childhood, where everyone in the neighbourhood was familiar.

MR AND MRS SMALL 31 New Cavendish Street, W1G 9TT mrandmrssmall.co.uk

CHANTECAILLE ULTRA SUN PROTECTION SPF 45

SPACE NK, £88 spacenk.com

GINGER FLIGHT THERAPY

AESOP, £23 aesop.com

HAND FIRST-AID, 50ML

PERFUMER H, £15 perfumerh.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

THE EDIT

REVITALISING + HYDRATING FACIAL

TONER MIST ANATOME –, £20 anatome.co

TBC

TBC tbc

MANICURE AND PEDICURE SET

MARGARET DABBS, £125 margaretdabbs.co.uk

EAU DES SENS EAU DE TOILETTE, 50ML

DIPTYQUE, £78 diptyqueparis.com

SOY FACE CLEANSER, TRAVEL SIZE

FRESH, £13 fresh.com

AHEAD OF THE CURVE

Mr Ahmed Ibrahim, consultant neurosurgeon at The London Clinic, on advances in the treatment of scoliosis, an abnormal curvature of the spine

Interview: Viel Richardson

Q: What is scoliosis?

A: It’s an abnormal curvature of the spine. There are two types of scoliosis. The first occurs in childhood and is a structural problem: one side of the spine grows more than the other and this creates a curvature. This is called idiopathic or juvenile scoliosis and is treated by paediatric scoliosis surgeons. Then we have the degenerative type, which usually affects people above the age of 40.

Q: What causes degenerative scoliosis?

A: The spine has two components. The vertebrae are the structural components, like building blocks. As with any blocks, if you simply stack them, there’s no mobility. To be able to move your neck around, lean forward, get a range of movement, you need segmentation of those blocks. This is provided by the discs that separate the vertebrae. If there’s disease or trauma in either the vertebrae or the discs, it can cause a malalignment in the spine. Wear and tear can also cause the vertebrae or discs to degenerate in an asymmetrical way. The spine then starts to collapse on one side, which causes a domino effect and can lead to scoliosis.

Q: How do you measure the level of severity?

A: We use a scale called the COBBS angle. Anyone with a curvature of beyond 20 degrees is diagnosed with scoliosis. For some people, particularly with juvenile scoliosis, it can be what we call ‘static’. This is where it stays at a similar degree of curve and doesn’t really progress. In these cases, the curve stops progressing when the bones have matured. The adult version that develops through wear and tear or injury will almost always get worse with time.

Q: How is it diagnosed?

A: Generally, the idiopathic type is initially noticed by the parent who is caring for the child. They tend to be very attuned to anything “This is an incredibly exciting time to be a neurosurgeon. New technology is only beginning to make an impact and it’s really exciting to think what we’ll be able to do in the future.”

unusual. They tend to take the child to the doctor because they suspect something is not quite right. After that it is fairly simple to diagnose using x-rays. Some children with idiopathic scoliosis may require intervention early, while others may never need intervention, as it isn’t causing them function loss or aesthetic problems.

With the degenerative type, the first sign is usually back pain. The diagnosis will come from an examination, confirmed with an x-ray that will tell you where the curvature is and whether there is a slipped disc or any other issue associated with the condition. With scoliosis, the curvature is from side to side, but your spine exists in three-dimensional space and sometimes you have a forward shift as well, which is called a kyphosis. Of course, the degree of curvature will vary between individuals. It usually occurs first in the lower spine and is not really visible. Sometimes when we tell patients the diagnosis, they’re really surprised.

Q: What are the symptoms?

A: I deal with the degenerative type of scoliosis, and this tends to cause pain and dysfunction. In fact, this type of scoliosis is sometimes termed a ‘silent disability’, as the severity of pain and loss of movement function can leave people housebound. The reduction in activity can come at a severe cost to people’s health, causing cardiovascular problems, weight gain and general health issues. In juvenile cases, it can deform the ribcage and start to cause issues with breathing, which need to be treated promptly.

Q: What causes the pain?

A: There are generally two causes: muscular-skeletal and nerve damage. With muscular-skeletal issues, the curvature causes an imbalance in the way the muscles work when the patient stands and walks. This can cause pain in the joints and in the muscles themselves, and can go down to the buttock and potentially the legs as well. Nerve damage pain happens when the curvature causes compression of a nerve or nerves. There is a channel in the spine for each individual nerve. When there’s a curvature, that passage can be squashed on one side and the nerve can be crushed. The resulting pain can be severe and unrelenting because there’s no way to relieve the pressure.

Q: Is there a non-surgical treatment route available?

A: Physiotherapy and hydrotherapy with a focus on strengthening and balancing the muscles can be very effective. If the degree of scoliosis is at the lower end of the spectrum, or if the pressure on the nerves is reasonably low grade you can manage the symptoms. The next stage will be an injection that targets any of the compressed nerves and tries to relieve the symptoms as much as possible. But what we are doing there is localised pain relief, not a cure. >

Q: If surgery is needed, what is the nature of the procedure?

A: The type of scoliosis dictates what you’re going to do. If you are trying to straighten the curve, you are either supporting or replacing vertebrae and putting in a structure to support the repair. If the issue is trapped nerves, you can undertake what’s called a ‘decompression’, where you remove part of the structure that’s compressing the nerve. This has got to be undertaken with careful consideration though, as it could make things worse.

Q: Why is that?

A: Because decompression involves removing bone to get to the area where the issue is. By doing so, you are potentially weakening that segment to the point where it could collapse more easily under pressure. This could actually accelerate the speed at which the curvature develops. If we’re going to do decompressions, they tend to be minimally invasive decompressions for patients who have a very targeted problem. The key is to be able to stop the pain with the smallest possible intervention.

Q: Is it a complex operation?

A: The procedure used to be an open surgery, meaning you would expose the spine. Nowadays we can carry out minimally invasive procedures, which are much better for the patient. Each vertebra is known as a ‘level’, and a scoliosis procedure tends to be multi-level, meaning we operate on several vertebrae or discs. When you have a curvature or a rotational misalignment, every vertebra will be on a different orientation, so the musculature will also be displaced, and potentially some organs will be too. This means that the orientation and the trajectory of your surgery will be different for every vertebra. This can increase the potential risk of injury to nearby nerves. Because of that, you need to operate with pinpoint accuracy.

Q: Tell us about the ExcelciusGPS surgical robot.

A: The ExcelciusGPS robotic surgical system is designed to treat spinal conditions. It allows me to guide the robotic arm to a precise area of the spine. There are a variety of surgical instruments that can be attached to the robotic arm, allowing me to carry out a range of procedures. This could include inserting screws into the spine, placing spinal implants or cutting away bone. The key thing is that while it is robotic, it is not autonomous – the surgeon still decides where to put the instrumentation and undertakes the actual surgical work.

Q: What does a procedure look like?

A: Before the procedure, everything will be planned out in detail and various aspects of it will be programmed into the system. If, for example, I’m inserting screws for structural support, the orientation and entry angle of those screws will be critical. If I’m removing bone, the tip of the instrument has to be in precisely the right place. As you can imagine, navigating through muscle tissue and around the spine itself is a very complex and time-consuming procedure.

What I program into the robotic arm is the precise point that I want to work on and the exact orientation that I want the tip of the instrument to be at. What the robot then does is figure out the safest and most efficient way to get there. The speed aspect is important here, as the less time spent under anaesthetic the better. When I give the command, the robot navigates the instrument into place. I have a very clear view via high resolution screens of what is going on and at any time I can stop or change what the arm is doing. The accuracy of the whole procedure is extremely high, allowing me to operate more effectively and with greater confidence. A: For multi-level procedures, each level is a procedure in itself. Say we’re doing three levels of operation – I might need three screws in different orientations and trajectories for each vertebra. There could be eight or nine different screws that have to be placed with absolute accuracy. Using the robot, I can complete work on three levels of the spine in the time it would take to do one without it.

Q: With these advanced techniques, can you fully cure scoliosis?

A: With degenerative scoliosis, the spine will continue to wear, whether you operate or not, so you tend to do the minimum necessary to improve the patient’s condition without weakening the spine further. The aim is to ameliorate the symptoms, not fully correct the curve. While they are not ‘cured’, as a scoliosis does remain, you want the patient to be free of pain and able to get back to their life.

It is different with an aesthetic operation, particularly for the idiopathic or the younger patients, where really they need the spine to be straight. The spine is usually more flexible at that age and can be straightened back to a very good degree. Again, the scoliosis may not be fully gone, but it can be reduced to a level where its impact on the patient’s life is significantly reduced or removed altogether.

Q: What do you enjoy most about what you do?

A: This is an incredibly exciting time to be a neurosurgeon. This technology is only beginning to make an impact and it’s really exciting to think what we’ll be able to do in the future. We are already seeing augmented-reality surgical systems being developed. It means we will be able to do so much more for the patients. That’s the exciting part.

THE LONDON CLINIC 20 Devonshire Place, W1 G 6BW thelondonclinic.co.uk