‘Little’ Wonder

The Pappas family’s latest recipe is a prime location, a menu redeux — and plenty of caviar. By Robin Barr Sussman, Photos by Arturo Olmos

AA new concept in the home of its former iteration, Little Pappas Seafood House, on Shepherd, Little’s Oyster Bar is quickly becoming a summer hot spot for truly cool fare.

The name conjures up a tiny, casual oyster bar, right? So when diners walk in the door, they might be delightfully surprised by the retro Hollywood vibe: There’s a grand marble-topped bar, several dining areas including a temperature-modulated patio, and a luxe aesthetic.

Design director Evy Pappas has created a cool setting with crisp shades of white and navy blue inside and out, and gleaming brass lighting. There’s a charming galleystyle side room wrapped in windows with banquette and table seating. The glassed-in retractable roof patio tucked in the back has more spacious seating, and provides a reprieve from the upbeat music and bustling bar area.

The cuisine, artfully created by chef Jason Ryczek, a California native and caviar expert, wows as well. Ryczek cut his chops in restaurants from San Diego to San Francisco. He cooked at the lauded sustainable seafood house Waterbar, and was the executive chef at award-winning Farallon. The chef also worked with the California Caviar Company for years.

So when it’s time to indulge in caviar, this is the place. Little’s signature roe is hand-selected sturgeon, which Ryczek personally harvested, and its accoutrements are downright addicting. A striking presentation is delivered to your table with puffed potato dumplings, radish butter, crème fraiche with onion jam, and chives. All caviar can be paired with a cocktail, Champagne or vodka from a handy pairing guide. A dollop of everything — including perfectly clean-tasting sturgeon fresh from the sea — ends up on the potato dumplings (think elevated tater tots). So amazing that you could stop at that one dish. But don’t.

The Atlantic yellowfin tuna crudo is also a refreshing dish Houstonians could eat all summer long. Served in a chilled broth made with pickled watermelon rind and peppers, the diced fresh crudo is crowned with chopped peanuts. As for the mains, expect King salmon, Texas redfish — and, in true Pappas style, a Prime dry-aged New York strip, with a mushroom demi glaze and truffle butter.

Little? Hardly. 

Ben Berg has opened his 10th concept in Houston. Located next to his OG steakhouse on Washington, Benny Chows brings to mind Chinese restaurants in Berg’s native New York, from the menu to the decor. With Chinese-born exec chef Shirong Mei at the helm, Benny Chows serves dishes both familiar — General Tso’s chicken, dim sum, decadent Peking Duck — and uniquely Texan, a la the Smoked Brisket Egg Roll and the Holy Trinity Fried Rice, both starring Truth BBQ, another Wash Ave neighbor.

Named after founder Terrence Gallivan’s children, Eleanor and Ronan, Elro marks the beloved chef’s first return to the Houston dining scene since The Pass & Provisions shuttered more than four years ago. In addition to its namesake dishes — puffy, woodfired pizzas and refreshing crudo — the Midtown bungalow also serves salads, elevated snacks and hoagies on housemade bread.

Also just opened in Midtown: Josephine’s, in the space that previously housed Izakaya. Named after chef Lucas McKinney’s greatgrandmother, the restaurant serves traditional Gulf fare — po’boys, housemade biscuits, Southern pea salad — in a thoughtfully designed space by Nest Interiors.

The Heights is home to a whimsical new bar called Incanto, housed in a bungalow and pouring unique cocktails. Mixologist Alexis Mijares shaped the concept, which she says is designed to “mix high-quality drink offerings with a bit of a more relaxed and playful theme.” Expect drinks with fresh herbs, and shareable cocktails to be served in “festive vessels,” like 10-inch disco balls and flamingo bowls.

Hip, healthfood-savvy restaurant

Green Fork and Straw opens its newest Houston outpost in July, on Westheimer at Edloe. (This will replace its Shepherd location.) Like its other shops in the Heights and Tanglewood, this one boasts a juice bar and grab-and-go items like “Cajun Girl” chicken salad, and a Paleo Brussels sprouts bowl.

As Underbelly Hospitality closes GJ Tavern in Downtown, it also welcomes Pastore Italian Kitchen to the family. The seafood-forward menu spotlights the flavors of the ocean — the kind you might find in seaside Portofino or Sicily. A rotating seafood tower, scallop crudo, and oysters with prosecco granita are just a few cooling starters on the opening menu. Follow those with heaping portions of pasta!

HOUSTON’S BEST FOOD NEWS, IN SMALL BITES

Bun B’s cult-followed smashburger joint has arrived! Located in the former James Coney Island spot in Montrose, the new brick and mortar Trill Burgers has been experiencing very long lines, so pack your patience (or maybe a lawn chair and bottled water).