World Traveller - October'18

INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 126 | OCTOBER 2018 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Produced in Dubai Production City

SÃO PAULO ALBANIA WASHINGTON DC RIYADH

The Italian job

A cross-country road trip through Italy’s heartland

Shape your mind.

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Raise your mood with the ENERGIZING COMFORT system – if you want. Its wide range of settings will help you to find inner balance by stimulating your senses. Simply at the touch of a button.

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DARE TO DISCOVER Located in the heart of Amman’s new downtown, Abdali, W Amman captivates the energy and charm of Jordanian history through a playfully modern twist.

For reservations marriott.com/hotels/travel/ammwi-w-amman/ 00962 6 510 88 88 @wammanhotel

WELCOME NOTE

THIS MONTH’S TRAVEL COMPANIONS

“Travelling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” This famous quote by Ibn Battuta is sure to resonate with all those who’ve set off in search of adventure.

This issue is packed with tales by seasoned explorers. Our cover story by Alex Allen (page 52) describes how a simple quest for art and good food in Italy ended up as an epic bonding

Managing Director

road trip between friends. Ellen Himelfarb flies us to Washington

Victoria Thatcher

DC to uncover its glossy galleries and soulful spirit (page 36),

Editorial Director

and three on-the-ground locals invite us to discover the heart

John Thatcher

and soul of São Paulo, through their eyes (page 30).

Group Commercial Director

p24 Michelin-starred chef PETER JOSEPH reveals his best eats

Filmmaker and adventurer Leon McCarron put all his stories

David Wade

into a book, but shares some of the highlights in our interview on

Managing Editor

page 26. Having travelled 1,000 miles through the Middle East

Faye Bartle

tracing ancient pilgrimage routes and cycling a total of 14,000

faye@hotmediapublishing.com

miles from New York to Hong Kong, he’s not short of anecdotes.

Assistant Editor

It's not breaking records that motivates him, however, but the

Radhika Mathur

chance to "connect with people and share stories along the

Art Director

way". And, that's something we can all relate to.

p26

LEON MCCARRON, filmmaker and adventurer, shares his stories

Kerri Bennett Designer

Happy travels,

Jamie Pudsey

Faye Bartle

Senior Advertising Manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmediapublishing.com Production Manager Muthu Kumar

Find us at…

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller

p28 How to shop Riyadh, by art entrepreneur MASHAEL AL RUSHAID

TWITTER @WT_Magazine

INSPIRED BY

Photography credits: Getty Images and Phocal Media

Tap in

Stay up-to-date on what’s happening online and on our social channels on page 79

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

p67 Travel photographer MIKE MATTERA gives us his best shots

COVER IMAGE The rolling hills of Val d'Orcia, Tuscany.

Getty Images

World Traveller 5

CONTENTS October 2018 18

Hong Kong

REGULARS

10

17

26

24

TRAVEL GOALS

GLOBETROTTER

CHEF’S TOP TABLES

A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED

Kromlau's picture-perfect bridge, rice terraces in Vietnam, and dramatic Ronda

The new cool in Helsinki, stunning spots to see the stars, and a new way to enter China

Michelin maestro Peter Joseph tells us where in the world serves the finest Indian dishes

Travel tales from seasoned adventurer and filmmaker Leon McCarron

30

80

SHOP MY CITY

THE LOCALS’ GUIDE TO SÃO PAULO

SUITE DREAMS

Mashael Al Rushaid, founder of fine art gallery Heist, takes us on a tour of Riyadh's best boutiques

Don't miss a beat in São Paulo by following in the footsteps of our in-the-know residents

Enjoy the high life in Singapore from the Mandarin Oriental's prized Marina Bay Suite

28

World Traveller 7

CONTENTS

36

Washington DC

FEATURES

36

44

52

TRUMP CARD

CHIP OFF THE OLD BLOC

SPAGHETTI JUNCTIONS

There's much more to Washington DC than politics. Ellen Himelfarb uncorks its soulful spirt

Tristan Rutherford heads to Albania, the Balkan beauty untouched by time and now open to tourists

Two friends hit the road through Italy's heartland to enjoy the best of both the city and countryside

WEEKENDS

62 A LONG WEEKEND IN TBILISI

Where the old and new combine to create an eclectic charm

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67 MY GREAT ESCAPES

68

73

STAYCATIONS

READER OFFERS

NYC native and photographer Enjoy a well-deserved Mike Mattera shares the stories weekend away at these behind his snaps luxurious hotels and resorts

Take advantage of our exclusive deals for your next adventure

RAKOTZBRÜCKE IN KROMLAU, GERMANY

Forming a flawless circle as it is reflected in the waters below, this picture-perfect arched bridge, thought to have been built in 1860, is an impressive feat of engineering, with its curved stone structure appearing to defy gravity.

At each end, it is flanked by jagged rock spires lending a contrasting geometric design edge. It’s more than worth the journey to Kromlau Park (near the Polish border) to see it for yourself, but don’t let your curiosity get the better of you: visitors have long been banned from trying to cross it in order to protect the surreal structure.

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TRAVEL GOALS

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TAKE ME THERE

12 World Traveller

TRAVEL GOALS

RICE TERRACES IN TULE, VIETNAM

A mother rests with her children amid the rolling green rice terraces of Tule village in the Yenbai district of north Vietnam. A compelling stop for travellers, offering lush landscapes as far as the eye can see, the long and narrow rice fields, which look like staircases built into the hilly terrain, have been cultivated over centuries. As well as being breathtakingly beautiful, they provide a masterclass in farming by leveraging an age-old solution to irrigation. In autumn, the paddies change colour, turning from deep green to yellow-gold as if to signify their richness.

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TAKE ME THERE

THE GUADALEVĂ?N RIVER IN RONDA, SPAIN

Weaving its way through the deep El Tajo gorge, the GuadalevĂ­n River divides the dramatic mountaintop city of Ronda, separating the old town from the new. And while the landscape cuts a striking image from above, you can also get a great view from the lookout at Puente Nuevo, one of three bridges that span the river. Discover the historic charm of the old town then cross over to visit the legendary Plaza de Toros bullring (now a museum), which propelled Ronda onto the international stage as the birthplace of modern bullfighting.

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TRAVEL GOALS

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OCTOBER

Globetrotter Be informed, be inspired, be there

TAKE TO THE STREETS Were inspiration needed to visit one of the world's greatest cities, this new tome will provide it. Streets of Paris (published this month by teNeues) binds the work of 37 photographers, both Paris natives and visitors alike, who roam the thousands of Parisian rues to capture an evocative portrait of the city.

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GLOBETROTTER

ON TRACK

TRENDING DESTINATIONS Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, takes you on a tour of the best places to visit this month...

Get the bullet Hong Kong’s just-launched bullet train service cuts the distance between Kowloon and Guangzhou in mainland China to a mere 48 minutes precisely, meaning you can easily sample both in a day.

Here’s what not to miss…

SEOUL It’s the perfect time of year to visit South Korea’s dynamic capital. Nestled right at the heart of the city, the peak of Namsan Mountain will give you a bird’s eye view of how autumn paints Korea with a palette of breathtaking orange, yellow and crimson hues.

TORONTO Home to the the Maple Leafs – one of Canada’s famous ice-hockey teams – Toronto is also a magical place to see the leaves change colour in October.

There’s so much to do at this time of year, try a stroll through one of the many colourful parks or ravines, or take the two-hour drive to Niagara Falls – in autumn you can still take the boat right out to the waterfalls (you definitely can’t try this in winter).

Morning: Hong Kong

Afternoon: Guangzhou

TOKYO One of the most beautiful gardens in Japan, Rikugien Garden in the heart of Tokyo is also the city’s most visited spot to see its vibrant autumn leaves. It even opens in the evenings for special illuminations during peak season.

Take the first tram of the day (7am) to Victoria Peak – the highest point on Hong Kong Island – for a window to Hong Kong's very make up; studded with skyscrapers, pierced by the magnificent harbour, and surrounded by the verdant hills of the New Territories. You can hike back to the bottom, working up an appetite for traditional dim sum at Luk Yu Tea House, before boarding the iconic Star Ferry for Kowloon and the new West Kowloon railway station.

Guangzhou has its own point – Canton Tower, once the world's tallest before, among others, a certain Burj Khalifa was built – and from here you'll see the surprisingly green city laid out before you (smog permitting). Head back down to sample daily life in the loud and bustling 'wet' markets, before embarking on a more modern shopping spree in Zhujiang New Town. Then it's time to check out the myriad art installations of prominent Chinese artists at the city's spectacular Opera House.

BELFAST It’s the Emerald Isle’s ‘Walking Festival’ season, with organised trails taking you to multi-coloured forests and glens. If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, take a themed tour from Belfast to multiple locations that have featured on the hit show.

Italian powerhouse Gucci has teamed with British brand Globe-Trotter to produce a collection of hand-made luggage that features bold new prints and that famous green-red-green web stripe.

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Recharge + Restore Awaken to restorative sunshine and inspiring views of the Indian Ocean at The Westin Maldives Miriandhoo Resort, where wholesome menus, revitalizing treatments and our signature Heavenly® Bed leave you feeling your best.

We offer: • 70 private villas and suites, on island and overwater

• Westin Kids Club®

• 3 restaurants and a rooftop bar

• Heavenly Spa by Westin™

• 24-hour WestinWORKOUT®

• Dive Centre

To make a reservation, visit westin.com/maldivesmiriandhoo or call +960 660 4444

DISCOVER A NEW LEVEL OF LUXURY IN SOUTHERN OMAN. Stunning in its Omani-inspired design, Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara is the first and only luxury resort in Southern Oman with private pool villas. Situated on an expansive pristine white sand beach, the resort features a massive infinity pool, three superb dining options and the world-famous Anantara Spa. Located directly adjacent to Al Baleed Archeological Park and just 15 km from Salalah International Airport, Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the adventures of Salalah.

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

CAMBODIA



CHINA



INDONESIA



MALDIVES  MOZAMBIQUE  OMAN  QATAR EMIRATES  VIETNAM  ZAMBIA



SRI LANKA



THAILAND



UNITED ARAB

GLOBETROTTER

The Reel Deal

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT See the night sky at its sparkling best by heading to one of these luxury locations

Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas Maldives It may not be the only observatory in the Maldives, but what's an observatory without an attached bar? Exactly. As well as that welcome quirk, Anantara Kihavah's new overwater SKY Bar, on top of which sits the custombuilt observatory, has a resident storytelling 'Sky Guru' who can tell guests what planets and stars they're viewing through what is the most powerful telescope in the Indian Ocean. A whole new world of luxury.

Six Senses Con Dao Vietnam

Singita Pamushana Lodge Zimbabwe

Bawah Reserve Indonesia

The first five-star resort in Vietnam’s Con Dao archipelago (16 islands in all) was designed in the style of a traditional fishing village, but for one glaring addition - MaksutovCassegrain, an enormous telescope that grants stargazers the opportunity to marvel at other planets.

It's housed within the resort's own observatory, which opens twice weekly for complimentary sessions hosted by a resident astronomer who knows their Pleiades from their Beehive Cluster.

When the wraps came off its facelift in July after many months of work, the standout feature of the totally transformed Singita Pamushana Lodge was undoubtedly its clifftop fire pit and suspended bar, which bestows 270-degree views of the Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve and, at night, a ringside seat to the celestial show above. To aid your search for a shooting star, telescopes are provided, while the warmth of the open fire only adds to the allure of this truly magical setting.

Located between Malaysia and Borneo in Indonesia's Anambas Islands, Bawah Reserve comprises six islands, 13 beaches and three lagoons. It's no surprise, then, that stargazing opportunities aren't limited to one central location in this remote paradise: guests can contemplate constellations from the comfort of their own suites, while dining at the treetop restaurant, or when using the telescope on the resort's jetty.

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GLOBETROTTER

HELSINKI

AMOS REX Following five years of renovation, the landmark 1930s Lasipalatsi building in central Helsinki has been transformed into Finland’s coolest art museum, Amos Rex. At the heart of the museum, 13,000 cubic metres of rock has been excavated to create a new world-class flexible gallery space topped with a series of domes and skylights that form the new undulating landscape of Lasipalatsi Square. It's the latest addition to the buzzing cultural quarter of Helsinki, which already includes the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art, the National Museum of Finland, the Finnish Museum of Natural History, and the soon-to-be-open Oodi Central Library.

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3 OTHER MUST-DO THINGS IN HELSINKI

1 Go for a stroll in Kallio What Shoreditch is to London, Kallio is to Helsinki, a place where you feel undressed if you're not sporting facial hair. Yet there's more than bearded baristas in this dense, bohemian district. A maze of little streets, Kallio is home to an array of quirky cafés and boutiques, with Made In Kallio chief among the latter.

It specialises in everything hand-crafted by local designers, selling jewellery, shoes, bags and clothing.

A great place for souvenirs.

The pick of the obligatory coffee shops here is Good Life Coffee, which takes its black stuff very seriously.

2 Let off some steam at one of the city's famed saunas Hitting the sauna is an essential part of enjoyment and relaxation in Finland, and something families and friends do together. In Helsinki, public saunas date to the early 20th century and a few from this era (like Sauna Arla, established in 1929) still operate in the same way they did at opening — heated by natural gas and wood. You can combine a sauna visit with sightseeing by plunging into the open-air Allas Sea Pool. In the shadow of the city's Market Square, it has three saunas and one sea water pool.

3 Get a taste for new Nordic cuisine New Nordic cuisine has rarely surrendered the spotlight since Rene Redzepi made Copenhagen's Noma the most famous restaurant in the world. It's a cuisine that leans heavily on local sources of seafood and vegetables and Helsinki's Juuri (Korkeavuorenkatu 27), which specialises in sapas: small plates of artfully presented unpretentious organic food, provides a great example of it. As does Grön (Albertinkatu 36), where what grows determines what's on the ever-changing, plant-based and organic menu.

FOOD

CHEF’S TOP TABLES Michelin-starred chef Peter Joseph, who recently launched his first solo venture Kahani, in London’s Chelsea, shares his best eats

On my wish list…

Inspired by India's culinary evolution, Omya at The Oberoi, New Delhi presents a gastronomic journey that’s bursting with Indian flavours and subtle twists

COCONUT LAGOON Ottawa

SALT Chennai

QUILON London

This restaurant specialises in the lesser-known but rich cuisine of Kerala. Dining there is like embarking on a culinary journey through South India via a feast of inimitable flavour, aroma and originality. The venue has a vibrant setting and the kitchen brigades are very talented in keeping the authentic taste, flavour and refined plating of Keralan cuisine.

FAVOURITE DISH: Nilgiri chicken with homemade parathas.

Salt has all the rustic charm of an Indian dhaba (roadside café) combined with the classiness of a bistro. The chefs experiment with the finest Indian spices and ingredients, using traditional cooking techniques to create an aromatic, visual and flavourful dining experience. The menu combines dishes from the north and south, such as zafrani chicken tikka and olive masala paniyaram.

FAVOURITE DISH: Pardha jhinga.

The Michelin-starred Quilon is located within an historic building that was the former residence of guests of Buckingham Palace, and the venue retains the sophistication of those bygone days. Chef Sriram Aylur is passionate about modern Indian coastal cuisine, and has a playful desire to blend traditional home-style cooking with a contemporary twist.

FAVOURITE DISH: The baked black cod and stuffed quail legs.

COME DINE WITH ME...

The spirit of Kahani (which translates to story in Hindi) is for lighter, more modern Indian dishes featuring seasonal, locally-produced British ingredients. My guests receive a very warm welcome and a personalised service as they dine on beautifully-presented, healthy food with an abundance of flavour. The grilled meats, fish and vegetables from the robata grill are a particular focus, and a must-try. kahanilondon.com Saffron chicken tikka

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Girls’ Day at Saray Spa. Renew for the journey ahead.

Experience the ultimate in girly indulgence and retreat to the JW Marriott Marquis for 5-star pampering. Begin your afternoon with a 30-minute Facial or Back Massage followed by a complimentary reflexology session. Afterwards, savour a medley of sweet and savory treats with a delectable Afternoon Tea amongst the cosy and chic interiors of La Farine CafĂŠ & Bakery.

Daily, AED 300 per person

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com *Terms & Conditions: Offer is subject to availability. Advanced booking required. Booking is valid for a group of maximum 6 people.

PERSONALITY

A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED

LEON MCCARRON The filmmaker and adventurer, who has travelled 1,000 miles through the Middle East, shares his stories I’ve always loved being outdoors. I grew up in the wilderness in Northern Ireland but didn’t travel until I left university in 2010. I bought a bicycle and jumped on an aeroplane to New York with an aim to cycle across America from East to West. I thought that if I just kept going, maybe I could make it. I took my time and within three months I achieved my goal so I thought, why not keep going? I ended up cycling a total of 14,000 miles from New York to Hong Kong.

When I started travelling, I didn’t have a phone or an iPod. It was very low-tech compared to how I travel now, with my laptop and camera and I miss the simplicity of that. Keeping a log book and diary is a purer process than filmmaking, when you need to prioritise the story over being in the moment. But I am doing my dream job so I refuse to be jaded by it.

I don’t travel to break records, but to connect with people and share stories along the way. It can be easy to believe that the world is a scary and dangerous place. Not to downplay the serious issues we are facing currently, but these don’t define the world around us. People have more similarities than they have differences. It’s this counternarrative that motivates me to keep on exploring.

One of my most memorable journeys was crossing the Empty Quarter from Salalah to Dubai with a friend. Although I had lived in Muscat and know a small amount of Arabic, it my first real travel experience in the region. We walked 1,600km over six months, pulling our own supplies in a steel cart. On this journey we met the most liberal, open-minded people and the graciousness with which we were received was incredibly eye-opening.

Travelling can be hectic and crazy. When I reached the Northern edge of the Gobi Desert and crossed into China and Hong Kong there was so much noise. If I don’t factor in some prolonged moments of stillness between trips I would explode.

I spend a lot of time drinking tea and pouring over maps. I have never been to Russia or Central Asia; huge chunks of the world, and places I am keen to learn more about at some point in the future.

Leon will be speaking about his book The Land Beyond at The Times & The Sunday Times Cheltenham Literature Festival (5-14 October) on 9 October. cheltenhamfestivals.com/literature

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AN ISLAND OF DISCOVERY oneandonlyreethirah.com +960 664 8800

SHOPPING

Clockwise from left: Number Nine concept store; Ashi Couture FW 1819; The Boulevard; Bateel dates; Ne’emah Bijou Oud

SHOP MY CITY

Riyadh

Mashael Al Rushaid, founder of fine art gallery Heist, shares the shopping secrets of her home city It’s an exciting time for Saudi Arabia, with creativity and homegrown talent at the forefront. The all-new hotspot The Boulevard has an outdoor avenue reminiscent of shopping experiences in Los Angeles, with an arabesque twist.

As well as having all the international fashion houses, you’ll discover labels you can’t find anywhere else.

The highlights of which are: Ashi, a couture designer who has an international following; Reem Al Kanhal, who collaborates with local artists and offers a collection that can be dressed-up or down; and Razan Alazzouni, who produces beautiful collections with intricate beading and embroidery.

As far as concept stores go, Pattern has a great selection of curated art, fashion and lifestyle, which is all laid out for you under one roof, while Number Nine is a great destination for gifts, gadgets and clothes.

No trip to Riyadh would be 28 World Traveller

complete without a visit to the gold souks; the city is one of the few places in the world where you can get 21-karat gold.

For traditional, locallyproduced products, make a beeline for Art Heritage Centre, where you are guaranteed to find a vast array of beautifullyembroidered jalabiya (kaftans) and farwa (Saudi’s answer to the winter coat) handmade and designed

by Saudi women.

Another thing you must do is add to your fragrance wardrobe with essential oils, incense or perfume.

You’ll find scents in their purest form – particularly those from Taif, one of the oldest cities in the world – and traditional glass blown perfume bottles called tolla, which are works of art in themselves.

For gourmands, sukkari dates from the date market are world-class, and don’t leave without stocking-up on the date syrup from Bateel.

“Discover labels you can’t find anywhere else”

Bateel dates

The Boulevard

C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour

Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.

LOCALS’ GUIDE

THE LOCALS' GUIDE TO

São Paulo Cut a path through the crowds and discover the Brazilian heart and soul of this vibrant city that never sleeps

Installation view of WuraNatasha Ogunji’s exhibition.

33rd Bienal de São Paulo: Affective Affinities, 2018. © Leo Eloy / Estúdio Garagem / Bienal de São Paulo Foundation

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LOCALS’ GUIDE

ARTISTIC IMPRESSION Family photographer Margit Ikeda always has an eye out for arts and culture packed places to visit in the city gitikedafotografia. com.br Tell us about the arts and culture scene...

The cultural agenda is very intense, with everything from large-scale international events to low-cost alternatives. Plus, there’s a lot of museums, galleries and cultural centres dedicated to Brazilian art. The 33rd Bienal de São Paulo (bienal.org.br) runs until 9 December and features 12 solo projects selected by chief curator Gabriel Pérez-Barreiro, along with seven group shows. There's also a fantastic photography exhibition, Irving Penn: Centenário, at Instituto Moreira Salles (IMS) Paulista (ims. com.br) until 11 November.

Where can we see the best art?

On Sundays, the famous Paulista Avenue transforms into a place where all kinds of people come to enjoy the day, with street artists performing all the way along. Plus, there are multiple cultural hotspots located there. São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP, masp.org.br) is the most important museum in the city, with its modernist architecture by Lina Bo Bardi.

Itaú Cultural (itaucultural.org.br) is perfect for a dose of Brazilian culture, while Japan House São Paulo (japanhouse.jp/saopaulo) showcases the very best of Japanese design, and Sesc Avenida Paulista (sescsp.org.br/ avenidapaulista) has great quality yet very affordable Brazilian art on display.

What are your favourite culture spots?

Ibirapuera Park teams nature with an impressive line-up of museums, including the São Paulo Museum of Modern Art (mam. org.br), Museu Afro Brasil (museuafrobrasil. org.br), and Oca (parqueibirapuera.org). If you have the time and energy, you can cross over to the Museum of Contemporary Art, University of São Paulo (mac.usp.br). The buildings in the park itself were designed by Oscar Niemeyer, one of Brazil’s most famous architects, and if you’re lucky you can catch a music concert on a sunny day.

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Backstage before the João Pimenta fashion show at São Paulo Fashion Week

THE STYLE SESSIONS Personal stylist Flávia Machado knows all the best places to shop for vintage finds through to luxury labels flaviamachado consultoria.com.br

1

The style scene. São Paulo is a very democratic and open city, and fashion follows this sentiment with a wide variety of brands, styles and price tags on offer. The city has hosted a semi-annual Fashion Week since 1995, and there are four major fashion colleges attracting young talent from all over Brazil.

2

Must-shop neighbourhoods.

Jardins is home to the upmarket Rua Oscar Freire, with lots of international luxury brands nearby. Pinheiros and Vila Madalena are more bohemian, with brands by famous Brazilian designers, such as Alexandre Herchcovitch, and an impressive

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collection of concept stores and boutique businesses that are worth checking out.

3

Top luxury malls. There are three luxury shopping malls that deserve your attention: Cidade Jardim (shoppingcidadejardim. com), JK Iguatemi (iguatemi.com.br) and Iguatemi São Paulo. Stop for lunch in one of the rooftop restaurants at Cidade Jardim for brilliant skyline views.

4

Vintage finds. While there’s no single neighbourhood or street that offers a range of vintage stores, I recommend four very interesting second-hand shops: Luxury Tap (Rua João Moura, 460) in Pinheiros and Pagu 2nd Hand Shop (Rua Oscar Freire, 129), Chic Boudoir (Rua Pamplona, 1405), and B Luxury Vintage (Rua Augusta, 2566) in Jardins.

5

Homegrown designers.

I love Alexandre Herchcovitch, Gloria Coelho, Martha Medeiros, Adriana Barra and the label Osklen, which was founded by the designer Oskar Metsavaht.

Shopping for Havaianas

6

Must-have mementoes. I’ve never met someone who doesn’t appreciate Havaianas. The flagship store at Rua Oscar Freire is the best place to buy them, offering hundreds of styles and colours. If you want a wonderful outfit, check out the work of Martha Medeiros. Hailing from Alagoas, in northeastern Brazil, she does a beautiful job with lace. There’s a shop in Jardins and also at Cidade Jardim.

LOCALS’ GUIDE

STREET SAVVY Stroll through the city and unearth its best bits along the way, says Guilherme Sanches, navigator at Renaissance São Paulo Hotel

A dish by D.O.M: manioc farofa and mullet bottarga (left spoon) and Chibé (right spoon), photographed

by Ricardo D'Angelo

Don’t let the concrete buildings fool you into thinking that São Paulo is grey. It’s actually a canvas for colour and movement, with street art at every turn, as well as live music and exhibitions around the clock.

The best way to get to know São Paulo is to walk around like a true Paulista as the city reveals itself in all its details.

There are some fantastic walking tours available, like those by O Melhor de Sampa (@omelhordesampa), that will give you the confidence to continue exploring on your own. If you’re happy going solo, one of the first places to head to is the historic city centre. Stop by Pátio do Colégio, where the city was founded, and which now houses a museum. More must-sees are the Municipal Theater of São Paulo, a masterpiece by architect Ramos de Azevedo, and the iconic Cabo Mayor lighthouse.

At weekends, head to the bohemian neighbourhood of Vila Madalena to wander through Batman Alley and the surrounding streets where an incredible world of street art, small galleries, and homegrown restaurants await. Finish up in a place like Armazém da Cidade, listening to live music and tasting a variety of dishes prepared by local chefs.

My favourite corner of the city is Jardins, which is home to yet more art galleries and museums, as well as the most incredible restaurants, including D.O.M (domrestaurante.com.br) and Manioca (manimanioca.com.br).

Tokyo 011 is the newest hotspot in the city. Located near the Baixo Augusta region, this nine-storey building (tokyo011. com.br) has exhibitions, movie theatres and a funky karaoke venue. Hungry?

There’s a marvellous restaurant inspired by the movie Kill Bill. On the top floor also you’ll find an open-air nightclub with an incredible view of the city centre.

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WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA KALUTARA RESORT

Go with the flow Immerse yourself in island life at Anantara Kalutara Resort in Sri Lanka, which boasts a secluded spot where the Kalu Ganga River meets the Indian Ocean

S

et amid tropical gardens and towering coconut palms, and surrounded by lagoon and ocean, Anantara Kalutara Resort is one of the most sought-after places to stay along Sri Lanka’s picturesque southwest coast.

Located just 10 mins from town and an hour from Colombo, this peaceful resort situated between the Indian Ocean and the

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Kalu River is a lush setting for those who want to experience the cultural, historical and natural charms of the local area.

The architecture of the resort is inspired by the work of the late Geoffrey Bawa, the brains behind ‘tropical modernism’, welcoming guests with a considered design that showcases the surrounds to maximum effect. Suites and

Villas draw the outside in with private gardens and plunge pools, and a Villa Host on hand to tend to your every need.

Larger groups will find the Two Bedroom Pool Villa a fitting home from home, accommodating up to four adults and two children, with an outdoor dining area ideal for mealtimes teamed with sparkling conversation.

Of course, if you prefer to dine out, there are a variety of restaurants to enjoy, from Italian eatery Acquolina to Asian eatery Spice Traders. Plus, you can learn the secrets of spicy Sri Lankan cuisine thanks to Spice Spoons interactive cooking classes that will take you to a traditional market to shop for ingredients, followed by a step-by-step tutorial with the chef and, of course, the chance to tuck into your creation.

If rejuvenation is required, head to Anantara Spa, which has an indulgent menu of Ayurveda-inspired treatments that can be customised to suit. We rate the Anantara Kalutara Tea Journey, which provides a powerful antioxidant surge with a warm tea bath soak, purifying green tea body scrub and nutrient-rich detox wrap using green tea balm.

There are plenty of activities and excursions on offer to fill your day.

Join the resident yogi for sunrise sessions beside the ocean or command a jet ski at dusk for thrilling sunset views. Just don’t plan anything for Saturdays at 4pm, when tropical fruit is delivered to the lagoon shores for a refreshing early evening interlude.

If you want to venture out, you can explore the stunning Lunuganga Estate (Bawa’s former country residence), hop aboard a traditional sailing vessel to learn local fishing techniques, and cruise the Kalu Ganga to see the native wildlife.

Another iconic trip is to the Handunugoda Tea Plantation, which is famous for its white tea. Take a peek behind the scenes at the 20-acre estate and sample the perfect blend for a memorable way to end your Sri Lankan sojourn.

To find out more, visit www.anantara.com/kalutara World Traveller 35

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Don’t be deterred by the politics. With its glossy galleries and soulful spirit, Washington has aces up its sleeve. Ellen Himelfarb feels the power in DC

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WASHINGTON DC

M

iami. New York.

Chicago. Washington DC? It somehow seems a wallflower by comparison. But why?

From the White House to the recently renovated Watergate Hotel, the capital’s not short on iconic sights, after all.

Perhaps it’s the blue-suited nature of the place: DC is the America of Fox News, presided over by a new cartoon Donald with a lot less touristic allure than Disney’s duck. It is also heavy with history, from John Hancock and his Declaration of Independence, to Martin Luther King Jr and his dashed ’60s Dream.

In fact, it was that sublime legacy that I’d come for, and yet I soon realised I’d have to banish preconceptions of pomp and politics. Close up, I find, DC has a light, buzzy, contemporary spirit — and that includes the punchy craft ingredients in my cocktail. It’s as sassy as San Francisco, as hip as Manhattan, and politics seems tangential to ordinary lives — the flavour, but not the essence, of an evolving city.

Over the past 200 years (but mostly, I learn, the past 10), a soulful metropolis has grown up around the imposing white monuments of the grand National Mall — around it, but not in thrall to it.

The city is rebuilding itself as a home for Washingtonians. Teachers, chefs and artists far outnumber the partisans pitching up for four-year terms. ‘DC’s got the best qualities of the folksy south, with the liberal politics of the north,’ says a diner I chat to in a restaurant. She’s right. By the Potomac River, the old Watergate Hotel

thrums with slinky new social spaces. The stodgy Smithsonian galleries are getting ‘woke’ to diversity, from the ‘Blacksonian’ National Museum of African American History and Culture to the National Portrait Gallery, with Obama art. And I get a hearty ‘How y’all doin’?’ wherever I go.

Take that as your welcome to DC. Here’s how to live it for real across its weekend...

Friday: American splendour The red-brick mansion block outside my window is obscured by elms as I wake in the residential splendour of Logan Circle.

People in civil-servant suits and yoga gear head along Rhode Island Avenue into town.

Throwing on a few layers, I pick a bicycle from the Capital Bikeshare (CaBi) scheme — DC’s grid is an epic undertaking on foot, but numbered east to west and lettered south to north, it’s easily navigable on two wheels. Whirling down the wide expanse of 16th Street toward the White House, I’ve set aside my first day to ogle ‘classic DC’, and in 10 minutes I’m back by the thick lawn, close enough to tackle the officials with earpieces mingling with the visitors. Entry is free, but registering for the mandatory tour can take weeks. So I circle past to the National Mall, a sweep of green unfolding across three kilometres of downtown, anchored by the sort of monuments you see on banknotes.

The Mall has ‘national park’ status, and I feel I’m on safari, ticking off the Big Five blockbuster sights. But the trails, where khaki servicemen push veterans in wheelchairs, tone down the urgency.

The reflecting pool encourages tapering perspectives, its symbolism no mistake.

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This is indeed a place for reflection, the stark white Washington Monument rising against the shimmering bronze tiers of the National Museum of African American History and Culture. I round both en route to the Greek folly that is the Jefferson Memorial. In the intimacy of morning, the words etched into its walls transfix me: ‘Institutions must advance also to keep pace with the times,’ they say. ‘No man shall suffer on account of his religious opinions.’

A wooded path leads me to a scene of verdigris statues from Roosevelt’s day, marching toward war, waiting for bread. ‘Any oppression, any injustice, any hatred is a wedge designed to attack our civilisation,’ I read on the brick wall behind. I’m not alone. Pilgrims from India, Italy, Iran hold hands as I walk my bike alongside. By the chalky granite likeness of Martin Luther King Jr, the tears flow. ‘Right, temporarily defeated, is stronger than evil triumphant.’ Is it? ‘We shall overcome.’ Shall we?

The Mall is home to 11 Smithsonian museums dedicated to American art, history, space — free of charge, but absorbing of time. I do manage the Sculpture Garden of the National Gallery of Art, where, at high noon, the shade of a six-legged red statue by Alexander Calder is the ideal spot to sit and scoff a takeaway hot dog. DC’s most imposing pillared facades are along the diagonal of Pennsylvania Avenue, and the perimeter of the Mall. They call it the Federal Triangle, and you can download a walking tour of the hotspots (culturaltourismdc. org/portal/822), including the FBI building and the Old Post Office, now a blingy Trump hotel with a view toward its founder’s temporary home.

I reach the National Archives in time for the last entry at 5pm. As teachers hustle out school groups, I’m nearly alone with the Declaration of Independence, so faded I barely make out John Hancock’s cocky signature. The last half-hour of the day is just enough to swot up on the first 10 amendments to the Constitution, as fervently debated today as then.

Back up towards the White House, a garrulous mob in Oxford shirts is already forming by the lifts at the W Hotel. Together we sweep up to the 11th-floor rooftop bar. Squeezed 38 World Traveller

onto the terrace, we watch planes landing into the domestic airport pass scarily close to the Washington Monument, and even the locals join me in collective gasps at the sight.

Saturday: Hipster heartland My taxi drops me at Sidamo, an Ethiopian café amid the alluring grit of H Street. Washington has the largest Ethiopian diaspora outside Africa and they know coffee. Roasted on a stove in the corner, here it’s served to antibureaucrats — the growing population of Washingtonians that lives here for parties of the social, not political, kind.

Outside, commuters hustle in Nikes to Union Station, or maybe the Capitol Building, the domed wedding cake where harried lawmakers debate bills. I’d considered going myself, to join one of the free tours. But in the dry heat I put it off in favour of exploring the Capitol Hill neighbourhood, which unfurls over high ground southeast of its namesake.

Turning down 4th Street, a boulevard of pretty bay-windowed homes, I’m there before I’ve finished my takeaway latte.

Two decades ago, this was frontierland.

The townhouses around Seward Square were run down, the streets chaotic. Now they’re attractively twee, painted with autumnal hues, Labradoodles lolling behind French windows. I’m told the Eastern Market was downtrodden once, its low redbrick facade stained and sad. Today parents push designer buggies past the threshold to the hand-stuffed-pasta counter.

As I pass Market Lunch, I can hear a cashier call sing-song orders to cooks in hairnets. At a communal table, residents of all walks gab over plates of fried-green tomatoes, eggs sunny-side-up, and thick, moist southern biscuits to mop it all up.

Soon, so do I. ‘Do you want iced tea with that?’ hollers the cashier. Hell, yeah.

I’d come to DC expecting a city seized by politics. But most Capitol Hill residents have lived here for decades, and the young newcomers have plenty else cluttering their Twitter feeds. Loiter long enough in Peregrine Espresso, next to the market, and a freelancer behind a MacBook will bend your ear about a new Maryland vineyard or the Nationals, the Major League Baseball team with a stadium nearby.

WASHINGTON DC

Clockwise from left: The East Wing of the National Gallery of Art; historic row houses in Georgetown; cyclist in front of the Lincoln Memorial; portrait of former President Barack Obama at the National Portrait Gallery

‘Georgetown University sophomores jog paths under the cherry-tree canopies. As college campuses go, you could hardly find a more pristine setting’

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‘It’s as sassy as San Francisco, as hip as Manhattan, and politics seems tangential to ordinary lives’ I’ve also been tipped off about the chanting Congressional Cemetery, a permanent residence not only for congressmen, but also activists and veterans of every US war. A wander along oak-shaded G and E Streets lands me at the gate. Stepping through dewy grass to the first stone — a gaudy accordion-shaped tribute to a wartime musician — triggers a chatty audio tour (bit.ly/2Ivi53l). As I wade deeper, I see stones mocked up as library cards, benches dedicated to lovers, and obelisks to deadly fireworks explosions.

I appreciate the living characters of Capitol Hill, too, ranting around the metro or outside District Taco. Otherwise, it’s pure Pleasantville. In a former military neighbourhood of red-brick walk-ups and pastel Victorians, hedges are as clipped as a marine’s haircut.

They bring me to a stretch of Pennsylvania Avenue lined with small restaurants serving smaller plates, where I chat with a clued-up Washingtonian called Jessica. Over my late lunch of charcuterie at the brick-walled ‘saloon’ Beucharts, she gives me neighbourhood crib notes. The Navy and Marine Corps shaped the area over two centuries, stationed down toward the Anacostia River. Industry later made it undesirable — then rough when it departed.

Heritage status has led to gentrification.

The dog park is as diverse as a model UN, but with better specs and more facial hair.

While it’s still light, we stroll 8th Street, its restaurant terraces echoing with laughter. Under the flyover, a beer garden, the Brig, has popped up to serve the new community. Where there was ‘literally nothing’, says Jessica, painted terraces and river-view condos have risen. At one end of the old Navy Yards, rust-red warehouses

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now have a museum and river walk.

Turning toward Yards Park, I hear the hum of picnicking families and folk guitars before we glimpse them. Old smokestacks herald buzzy brasseries; food trucks pull up to the lawns. Beyond a vast fountain where kids splash fully clothed is a mass of tail lights from confused drivers. The road running between here and the Nationals baseball stadium isn’t even marked on the map yet. But I know it will be.

Sunday: Genteel living and folksy food Uptown, on 14th Street, night drifts seamlessly into day. With the opening, at 7am, of Ted’s Bulletin café, there’s a brief overlap between wide-eyed revellers from the jazz clubs along U Street and bleary-eyed families from Dupont Circle, hungry for cinnamon rolls and ‘adult milkshakes’ spiked with banana rum. To skip down to the ‘healthy’ options would be un-American, so I submit to toast and fried eggs (they come in threes).

Up here, the streets are tighter and more walkable than down around the Mall. I spot a signpost heralding Logan Circle, an elegant quarter of tall Victorians converging on an oak-fringed roundabout.

More posts around the tree-lined circle tell the story of a neighbourhood that began like any other in DC: the Civil War had effectively levelled Washington, and swiftly rebuilding was the only way to keep the federal government in town.

Just far enough from the industrial waterfront, Logan got the grandest homes: mansard roofs and turrets of greater proportions than elsewhere, the oaks more mature. Exceptionally, they belonged to decommissioned black soldiers, who

WASHINGTON DC

A statue of President Abraham Lincoln sits inside the Lincoln Memorial

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Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Syndication

WASHINGTON DC Clockwise from left: Washington Monument at sunrise with soldiers training in the foreground; lobster roll; a downtown burger bar beckons diners

‘Old smokestacks herald buzzy brasseries; food trucks pull up to the lawns’

prospered in their freedom after the Civil War. The area declined last century, and a local, vocal heritage movement took root. Which is how the area kept its original lustre, like a sepia print.

Logan and its jollier, blingier neighbour Dupont Circle attract some of the top restaurants, too. The Tabard Inn is the 18th-century townhouse where I devour Maryland lobster tail. Across the street, behind a gaslit foyer, is the equally august Iron Gate. You could idle all day at the long zinc bar, quaffing drinks garnished with pansies.

But if you’re old money, you’re out west in Georgetown. After bottomless coffees at the Tabard Inn, I hop onto the G2 Metrobus on P Street, joining day-trippers. Forget keeping yourself to yourself on board — G2 banter reaches beer-hall levels, and by journey’s end, I’m sharing my seatmate’s crisps. As we cross Rock Creek, two silverhaired passengers clutch my shoulders maternally and point up Embassy Row to the mock Tudor where the Obamas now live. I see brick archways flanked by forest — part of the appeal, certainly.

They urge me off at 30th Street, to see Dumbarton Oaks Gardens — a stately sprawl amid green acres where, in 1944, a diplomatic summit paved the way for the UN. Georgetown University sophomores jog paths under the cherry-tree canopies.

As college campuses go, you could hardly find a more pristine setting.

And finally, I reach Camelot. At Wisconsin Avenue, I cut through shoppers eyeing bedazzled trainers to Kennedy Country, an idyll of flowering trees and antique brick. JFK lived in two federal-style homes on N Street, and I wander over to admire their well-kept topiaries — not a racer-green shutter out of place since Jackie sold up. Just two blocks away, diners at the M Street brasseries let their hair down over wine and seafood, looking more Jackie ‘O’ than ‘K’ in oversized shades and trendy denim.

At the white clapboard cottage housing Luke’s Lobster, students squat on the pavement with lobster rolls seeping melted butter. They, too, look less Kennedy-esque — more urbane residents of a thriving city up for anything. That bodes well for visitors, whatever their politics.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com World Traveller 43

ALBANIA

Chip off the old Bloc

‘Protected’ from tourism by its Communist rulers, Albania is the untouched Balkan beauty that time forgot. Tristan Rutherford has it all to himself

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ROME Left: Walking through the Accursed Mountains This page: The historical city of Gjirokastra

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I

’m the only tourist on the beach. Two beaches actually. The first section of Krorez beach is a white-sand idyll, lapped by the same Ionian blue found 15km south in Corfu.

The second section is a long banana swoosh perfumed by rosemary and pine — with sand as soft as in Puglia, the Italian region visible across the water on a clear day. It’s the same — gorgeous waters, perfect sand — at the 50-odd other beaches that stud Albania’s 360km coast, each of which knocks the socks off those in northern neighbour Croatia. I do a little jig. As there’s no-one in sight I secrete my trunks in a tree, then swim a kilometre through limpid sea. Well, it’s what Robinson Crusoe would have done.

At sunset, I find my swimmers again.

Then pad virgin footsteps to Krorez’s sole beach bar. It’s run by snaggle-toothed Albanian hippy, Evangelis, who sports a necklace made of driftwood. As it took me an hour to hike to this secret sandy stretch, I slip him $8 to sail me to the jetty further south, where I parked my hire car.

We shove his battered speedboat into the sunset surf. Evangelis guns the outboard engine, which is fuelled by a plastic Coke bottle half-filled with petrol, and we slap-slap-slap across a warm inky sea.

I’d come to Albania on my own. Regular holiday pals didn’t believe me when I talked up blissful beaches and UNESCO sights. Well, they could stick to the pricey niceties of the Greek Islands, and the 10-a-day cruise ships of Dubrovnik, both a short hop away. I wanted a sunny break with a backstory. Tumbling ruins without tour buses. I planned a sevenday loop from Albania’s beach-fringed west to its historic hinterland.

You won’t find many twits with wristbands bumbling off the cruise bus at Butrint, Albania’s most popular attraction, which I hit on day two. Imagine a best-of selection of Ephesus and the Acropolis on a lost island, hidden from passing

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ships by watery wetlands. Ruled by four different empires in turn, it’s an open-air museum of the Mediterranean greats.

Greek agora, check. Roman bath, check.

Ninth-century Byzantine basilica, check.

For lunch, I steal figs off trees. Then beat a barely trodden path to a vine-choked Ottoman hammam where I snooze under an olive tree. Later on I hire a speedboat plus driver for the laughable sum of $18 to take in Butrint’s scale. Herons stand guard as we putter past, while kingfishers flit by like iridescent darts of blue. You can’t do this in Pompeii.

My clifftop view on day three pans the entire Albanian Riviera. This, the country’s sandiest stretch of coast, ribbons for 100km from the Greek border at Butrint to Cape Karaburun near Vlorë. Like the Côte d’Azur a century ago, it’s a pinch-yourself patchwork of lonely beaches, where sunbathers are outnumbered by grazing donkeys. Some, like Monastery beach, host an Italian-run bar that dispenses massages. Others, like Zhabovel beach, are sun-licked curves of sand that Julius Caesar — who rocked up nearby in 48BC — would recognise today. That’s because until 1991 Albania was a Communist hermit kingdom.

Europe’s answer to North Korea left its gorgeous coast deserted lest home-grown capitalist reactionaries tried to escape.

Tourist development is in its infancy — my mum would snort at the health and safety, my kids would baulk at the lack of hotel pools — but so it was in Croatia 20 years ago. Archaeologists, adventurous couples and those searching for the next Corsica or Montenegro will fit right in.

Lunch at a coastal café typifies the nation’s naïf charms. It’s surrounded by citrus groves, shaded by quince trees and cooled by a sea breeze. You can buy a chilled drink or a Turkish coffee, the latter arriving with a complimentary glass of rakia distilled from the grape skins of the terrace’s overhead vines. Such a potent

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This page: The view from the historic area of Candelaria Opposite: Contemporary art in Iglesia de Santa Clara

‘Inland Albania is as pretty as Provence, with just as many timeless sights’

This page, clockwise from top left: Al fresco tables at a local tavern in Gjirokaster; boats bob in Saranda's marina; Greek-style salad; vineyard in Vlora

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ALBANIA

Left: The well preserved ruins of Berat's castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site This page: Karaburun Peninsula

‘Berat’s ruined castle rises like a Disney redoubt atop a spaghetti-western landscape’ cocktail sums up Albania’s unrealised potential. The flavours of Italy, blended with the bounty of Ancient Greece. As the language barrier is an ever-present drama — we’re not in Mallorca now — my order is taken twice. I end up with four doughnuts, two freshly pressed grape juices, two Greek salads, a vast platter of Adriatic prawns, a six-egg omelette — plus half of the chicken that laid them. Nevertheless I fill my boots on this $10 blowout.

The nation’s ‘newest’ seaside attraction was off-limits until 2017. Sazan Island had been a high-security military base for a century, during which no civilians — Albanian or otherwise — could set foot on it. This 5km Eden even has its own cloudless microclimate that affords it the vegetation of subtropical Tunisia.

On day four, the ominously named Black Pearl ferry carries me and a piratical

group of student day-trippers across from the port of Vlore.̈ I gaze out as the towering island rears ever larger, a Lost World where Aleppo pines tumble into azure seas. If a T-Rex barked out a mating call, it would come as no surprise.

The wild undergrads and I disembark on to a battered military jetty to be silenced by Sazan’s ethereal stillness. An obligatory short tour details the island’s military history: 2,800 Soviet bunkers dot the forest like concrete mushrooms. On any other Adriatic island, such as Paxos or Hvar, they’d build a five-star hotel. The sun belts through a canopy of juniper to mark swim time. I may be the first Englishman to front crawl from St Nicolo Bay beach near the port. That’s Albania — any visitor automatically becomes a pioneer. As the deep topaz Ionian meets the shallow navy of the Adriatic

right here, the swim is an aquamarine dream. Farther out, the wrecks of Greek, Roman and WWII ships tremble on the seabed, undisturbed by scuba crews.

On the chug back to the mainland, the Black Pearl calls at an unnamed, unmarked sliver of sand on the Karaburun peninsula.

This beach, like the 20 others, I saw from the boat, is fine, tickle-your-toes shingle.

As I’ve been spoilt by Albania’s unsullied shores, the two-dozen beachgoers render the sand too busy for me. So I hop over limestone blocks weathered by lapping waves to another curve of sand. It’s mine, all mine. If I didn’t have to wait three hours to Instagram the scene (cellphone signals are as rare as Missoni swimsuits in these lonely climes), I’d be in beach heaven.

Inland Albania is as pretty as Provence, with just as many timeless sights. With two days to go, I plough 90 minutes east World Traveller 49

ALBANIA

through vineyards and citrus orchards, stopping at Cobo Winery. Garrulous vineyard boss Muharrem Cobo leads me around his hi-tech cellar, where we crack open the first-ever bottle of his latest experiment: Albania’s premier sparkling rosé. Such first-to-try experiences are commonplace in the once-reclusive country, where both foreign visitors and private winemaking were effectively banned until 1991. The rosé colours my eyes for the sight ahead: Berat.

One part of a twin UNESCO city, Berat’s ruined castle rises like a Disney redoubt atop a spaghetti-western landscape. I park up, not by a ghost city, but by a living museum of stone homes and panoramic cafes that has been continuously inhabited for 3,000 years — longer than Rome or Istanbul. When the Roman and Byzantine empires crumbled, Berat became a centre of Christian learning.

This is evidenced in the Onufri Icon Museum, an array of golden frescoes that blings so much as to hypnotise the rare foreigner that gets this far. As dusk falls, I hit a rampart restaurant for curd soup, pickled tomatoes, shepherd’s salad, grilled lamb intestines, a swirlywhirly spinach pastry and a mixed grill.

A steal at $11, including ample drinks, homemade rakia grappa among them.

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Berat’s sister city is two hours south through badlands that once welcomed Lord Byron on a horseback tour. The boundless castle of Gjirokastër looms through my rakia headache. Five centuriesworth of white Ottoman houses, each a palace of stone, tumble down a ravine like Turkish sugar cubes. Poverty and obscurity have kept this former centre of empire pristine. Even the town’s wondrous selection of hotels is housed in ancient palazzos with frescoes and wooden ceiling rosettes. I’m informed that it would take six months to see Albania’s 100-odd other such archaeological sites, each frequented only by lizards and butterflies, where tortoises make love on amphitheatre terraces. Alas, I’ve got more beaches to see.

The three tiny Ksamil islands close my seven-day Albanian circle. Imagine the Maldives with trees. A dial-a-boat taxi scoops up sun-seekers from the shore then whizzes them to these emerald gems for $5 a ride. Holm oaks and bay laurel shade $8 beach beds, which drip into sapphire seas. You can swim between the islands or kayak out for quieter contemplation.

Braver souls could paddle the two kilometres across to Greece. But why bother? This lost Riviera is paradise found.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/ News Syndication

‘As the deep topaz Ionian meets the shallow navy of the Adriatic right here, the swim is an aquamarine dreamʼ

This page: A view of Saranda on the Albanian Riviera

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ITALY

JUNCTIONS His best friend wants to savour art in Rome. Alex Allen wants to scoff pasta in Bologna.

The keys to both are in a hire car, and a bonding trip of twists and turns between the two

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here’s a point, as you approach Florence from the north — threading your way along routes built God knows how many centuries ago to the regulation width of a mule cart — at which a stone wall suddenly falls away to reveal a view of the city so stupendous, your eyes can’t help but leave the road.

When this happened to me, luckily, I had my friend, Ben, in the passenger seat shouting ‘woah-hheyy-ARGHH!’ to alert me to the three-wheeled Piaggio van I was about to plough into. How we laughed... nervously. It’d take more than a potential major prang to drive a wedge

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between us. Ben and I have been friends for years, and we’ve long talked about embarking on an Italian road trip. The food! The scenery! The weather! If our two-week adventure turned out to be liberally peppered with emotionally fraught, near-death experiences as we grappled with smartphone cameras (and undefined overtaking laws), so what? It was also utterly unforgettable.

It had, memorably, taken some planning.

Academic Ben craved cultural enrichment — art, architecture and history — so cast his vote for Florence or Rome. Me, I just wanted food — Herculean portions of pasta, pizza and ice cream, prefaced by

aperitivos in sunny squares — so I had gluttonous Bologna and truffle-scented Umbria in my sights. In the end, unable to whittle it down, we decided to do it all. The plan: two weeks, starting in Bologna and meandering south through Florence and the rolling fields of Tuscany, before heading into the Umbrian hills to finish with a night in Rome.

Our decision to go in October paid off handsomely, with Aperoltinted sunlight and leaf-scattered streets to greet us on arrival.

For our first two days in Bologna we just wandered, aimless as a couple of lost dogs, gobbling meaty hand-outs

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

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Opening pages, from left: Linguine with grilled chicken and basil pesto; Valley Val'dOrcia near the medieval town of Volterra, Tuscany. These pages, clockwise from left: Looking out to a narrow canal in Bologna; peering over rooftops and in San Miniato; Ponte Vecchio and Uffizi Gallery in Florence; an idyllic alley with potted plants in Spello, Umbria; topping a pizza with arugula; poppies bloom in Castelluccio

in the old Quadrilatero market, nosing around cloistered university courtyards, and stretching our legs on a trek to the hilltop church of San Michele in Bosco — rewarding ourselves with a drink over red-roofed views. We found a grungy place where the city’s students hang out, and followed a tip-off from one of them to Osteria dell’Orsa — the spot to slurp down pappardelle glazed in Bologna’s signature ragù.

The city was everything I’d hoped it would be, but, above the face-stuffing fun, a cloud of anxiety was mushrooming.

Soon we would have to pick up the hire car, and face the first palm-greasing

gauntlet of the Italian roads. We flipped a coin to decide who was going to drive the two-hour leg to Florence. I lost. But luckily, Bologna proved a cinch to get out of. After a few shaky intersections, we were soon rushing along open country roads, arms dangling out the windows.

We sped past shining green meadows, apricot-coloured country houses and roadside vegetable stalls run by leatheryfaced old men, asleep in plastic chairs.

We laughed along to the Italian rap music on the radio, and enthusiastically joined in the chorus of horn tooting that arose from any minor hindrance — a tractor on the road up ahead, or a lost tourist

‘After bronzed, manicured Tuscany, Umbria felt wild, rugged and unkempt’

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This page: Cypress trees line the road to a farmhouse in Siena, Tuscany

ITALY

‘It was stupidly scenic, like a living painting’ making a U-turn. It wasn’t long before we had strayed into full-blown cockiness.

Indeed, it seemed we had worried unnecessarily. Everything was perfetto.

That’s when we hit Florence — and very nearly the back of the Piaggio.

After laid-back Bologna, the Tuscan capital was a jolt. Instead of the civilised grid of tree-lined streets we’d found in Bologna, Florence was a chaotic asteroid belt of traffic that sucked us in and spat us out at our hotel, dazed, but intact.

And there were more shocks to come.

The next morning, at the Uffizi Gallery, we found ourselves at the back of an ant-like column of tourists, selfie-stick antennae waving above their heads. The line for the Accademia Gallery, housing Michelangelo’s David, was no shorter. We’d thought that coming in October, we would avoid the worst of the crowds. Apparently, half the world had thought the same.

Luckily, in Florence, the big-name museums are just the tip of the cultural iceberg. South of the river, in the labyrinthine Boboli Gardens, we found a statue-filled grotto as extraordinary as anything in the galleries, and not a queue in sight. And instead of paying $25 entry to the crowd-clogged Florence Cathedral, we visited the free mini-me Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, which comes with skyline views from the top of its stone steps. In the late afternoon, in a sunny market square, we sipped frosted drinks and watched locals haggle over dusty antiques strewn across the cobblestones. It felt like we’d caught a glimpse of the real Florence, the one beyond the bus-tour crowds and checklist sights. And this was the lasting impression we’d have of the city, as the next day we’d be driving on to Pienza.

Sitting like a crown of honey-coloured

stone atop a green cushion of olive groves, vineyards and herb-filled allotments, Pienza was a two-hour drive south of Florence. We took a winding, rural route, which allowed us to properly settle into the driving, and reflect on what it was that made Italy such a great place for a road trip. First, inescapably, there was the landscape. It was stupidly scenic, like a living painting — from the inky brushflicks of cypress trees lining farmhouse tracks, to the warm ochre of cropped wheat, spread as if with a palette knife in thick, generous swathes across the hills.

There were also the roads themselves, which seemed to have been built to put a smile on our faces as we dipped through wishbone-sharp corners, shifted up through the gears along undulating straights, and leant on the brakes during plummeting downhills. Even stopping at petrol stations was something to look forward to, with many employing smart attendants to fill up the tank and check the oil and tyres, while we topped up with a proper, barista-made espresso at the coffee bar inside.

The following couple of days were spent criss-crossing Tuscany from our Pienza base, ticking our way through its catalogue of jewel-box towns. Montepulciano was a hilltop cluster of clay-coloured buildings that glowed like a heap of embers at dusk, while in Siena, we joined in with a group of schoolboys playing football in the vast, half-moon shaped Piazza del Campo, our voices echoing off the palazzo walls.

There was a feeling of freedom, fun and relaxed playfulness here that transcended both generations and, in this case, around 800 years of architectural antiquity. But before we had time to relax into a rhythm, we were on the move again. The next big chunk of our trip would take us over

World Traveller 57

This page: The sun sets on Rome`

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ITALY

‘The roads seemed to have been built to put a smile on our faces as we dipped through wishbone-sharp corners’ the Tuscany border and deep into rural Umbria. Inspired by stories of its food — truffles the size of potatoes (the world’s largest-ever white truffle, a gargantuan four-pounder, was unearthed here in 2014), wild boar, and the incomparable Norcian lentil, we felt ready for a change of scene. And boy, did we get it. After bronzed, manicured Tuscany, Umbria felt wild, rugged and unkempt. The L’Oréalglossy wheat fields became dark, tangled forests of hazel, beech and oak. The sky turned, too — from a clear, swimmingpool blue, to cloudy and storm-bruised.

And it was the weather that shaped our driving experience here. The roads, slick with rain water, we took slowly, and to much horn-tooting from behind. The steep gravel track that led up to our lodging, a rustic cottage on the slope of a wooded valley north of Perugia, turned into a mud chute, and it was all we could do to avoid sliding bonnet-first into a ditch. We got lost in biblical downpours — several times.

But despite the occasional moment of driving stress, we loved it. The air was always thick with the smell of wet soil.

Rivers gushed like liquid silver through narrow gullies, and we slept like bambinos to the sound of rain pattering against the vine leaves outside our windows.

Things got wilder as we pushed deeper into Umbria — no obvious Italy, this, for sunlounger softies. Signs of civilisation slipped away, motorways turning into narrow mountain roads, towns into granite-slab hamlets, and our satnav into a redundant blank screen. Earthquakes, we learnt, are an ever-present danger.

We bought hikers’ fleeces to supplement our warm-weather wardrobes, and by the time we reached the town of Norcia itself — a walled-in fortress of a place, where boars’ heads, hung outside shops

and restaurants — we felt like different people, in a different country.

Norcia was a personal pilgrimage on this road trip. Ben had had his quota of culture, and I couldn’t wait to wallow in Norcia’s rustic mountain food. Its wild boar ragùs, sausage-and-lentil stews and platters of truffle-laced charcuterie didn’t let me down. After a slap-up supper fit for a baron, we were up early the next morning to meet Francesco, a sapling-springy Norcian, who promised to show us around the area. Walking boots on, we followed ancient truffle-hunting trails through dense forest, across tumbling rivers and through villages abandoned, since their inhabitants had lost the ability to live off the land. ‘There’s still hope that this way of life will return with the younger generation,’ said Francesco, as we strode a mossy cobbled street.

‘Many are already returning from the cities to rediscover old techniques, and a simpler way of living.’

It was an idea we found ourselves mooting at length as we sped on towards Rome, our final stop, the following day.

As much as we were looking forward to our last night in the capital, we couldn’t help but watch wistfully as the natural landscape again made way for the urban one. ‘Shall we just go and live in Norcia?’ said Ben, as we pulled into a motorway petrol station. ‘Get a truffle dog each, become professional hermits?’ We looked at each other — visibly fatigued and dishevelled from barely two weeks on the road — and cracked up. ‘Sadly, I don’t think we’re cut out for it,’ I said, as the pump attendant walked over to our car. ‘How about a macchiato instead?’

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

World Traveller 59

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Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine by heading online to read more inspirational and exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute hotel and holiday features

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Weekends

Photo: Random International, Rain Room, 2012.

Exhibited at Sharjah Art Foundation, 2018. Image courtesy of Sharjah Art Foundation

Staycations and short-haul escapes

LET IT RAIN While it may be rare to be caught in a downpour in this part of the world, Sharjah Art Foundation’s Rain Room installation more than makes up for it. The immersive exhibit, which has a permanent home at Al Majarrah Park, was created by the London-based collective Random International – and you’re the star of the show. As you move through the space, motion sensors trigger the rain to fall around you and while you don’t actually get wet, you’re sure to feel creatively refreshed. It’s a must-do for your next visit to the emirate.

For tickets or to find out more, visit sharjahart.org World Traveller 61

MINI BREAK

A view of the Old Town and Narikala Fortress

YOUR GUIDE TO: TBILISI

With a Soviet past and edgy East meets West creativity, the world is starting to notice Georgia’s fascinating capital – and with good reason

62 World Traveller

Bridge of Peace

WORDS BY MICHELLE WRANIK-HICKS

A

decade after the war with Russia, Georgia’s capital has flourished with the sort of creative edginess comparable to other former Sovietoccupied cities like Berlin or Prague. With a captivatingly higgledy-piggledy Old Town, smart concept boutiques, chic cafés and Soviet-era buildings repurposed as hipster hotels, it's where a sense of history and modernity collide. A long weekend gives you time to dip your toe into this riverside city, and if you’re wondering if the local food will appeal, bear in mind the Georgian word shemomechamam, which translates to 'snaccident' and is used to reference something so tasty you ate the whole thing by accident.

GEORGIA

A CULTURAL PERSPECTIVE

Domes of the sulphur baths in the historic quarter

Explore on foot The narrow, labyrinthine lanes of Tbilisi’s 19th-century Old Town are charmingly storybook. The historical brick-façade houses with their intricate wooden balconies are particularly enchanting, as is the whimsical, leaning clock tower attached to the theatre of renowned puppeteer Rezo Gabriadze. For museums, opera and ballet, or simply the art of people-watching, head to Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi’s happening thoroughfare dotted with stylish cafés.

Mama Georgia The city is overlooked by the 4th-century Narikala Fortress, easily reached via a 10-minute aerial cable car ride, and the views over the city are magical. Note: wait for the glass-bottomed cable car for an unfettered panorama. While exploring, you won’t be able to miss the 66-foot-tall aluminium sculpture of Kartlis Deda, known as Mother Georgia, who stands guard holding a cup of wine for friends in one hand and brandishing a sword to vanquish foes in the other.

Modern marvels Take a stroll along Tbilisi’s riverside to the Bridge of Peace, a futuristic construction made of glass and steel, which is illuminated at night in an LED spectacle. There’s more modernity in adjacent Rike Park, dotted with contemporary art installations, and at the spectacular Zurab Tsereteli Museum of Modern Art (Rustaveli Ave. 27), which showcases works by the famous Georgian sculptor and artist, and plays host to the biannual Fashion Week.

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travelgoals Make like a fashion editor and snap up a chokha – a traditional Georgian wool coat with ornamental cartridge holders on the chest

ROOM TO GROOM Scrub-a-dub-dub It’s no Baden-Baden, but the Abanotubani district’s distinctive domed brick bathhouses have long offered restorative balneology to famed visitors like Alexandre Dumas and Alexander Pushkin, and if you can handle the pungent smell, the sulphur waters are said to cure everything from rheumatism to insomnia. Take a dip in a gender-segregated communal area, opt for a private room, or book a sudsy exfoliating scrubdown and massage. Try Bathhouse Number 5, tiled with exquisite mosaics, or the popular Gulo’s Spa, with pine saunas and a VIP room with pool.

Luxe spa spoils If a decadent massage sans egg smell is more your style, the luxury Sam Raan Spa & Wellness Centre (300 Aragvelis 24) cherry-picks wellness treatments from around the globe (think Himalayan salt therapy and Thai massage). For customised facials, aroma steam rooms and Finnish saunas – not to mention a rooftop infinity pool with a city panorama – the Anne Semonin SPA (1 Rose Revolution Square) is a 1,600-square-metre pampering haven.

Kartlis Deda

All the trimmings With so many creatives in Tbilisi, it goes without saying there’s an abundance of hipster beards, and keeping them in retro-modern shipshape style is Camora (23 Shota Rustaveli Ave). A beard trim and hot shave in this trendy fitted-out man cave – the walls are lined with historic black-and-white photography – will have gents looking and feeling like locals in no time.

World Traveller 63

MINI BREAK #

travelgoals Follow the local etiquette when eating khinkali (soupy dumplings) – take a small bite to suck out the broth, and leave the top knot on the side of your plate

One of Tbilisi's quirky local eateries

ART CAFES

DINE ABOUT TOWN Baked bread Few can resist the carb laden allure of Georgia’s famous melted cheese-stuffed flatbread, khachapuri, baked in the oven and traditionally topped with runny egg. Plump khinkali dumplings are another moreish must-try, filled with minced meat and spices. It may be soul food, but Georgian cuisine is far from stodgy, with hip restaurants paying homage to the nation’s culinary lineage, like Shavi Lomi by celebrity chef Meriko Gubeladze, and Barbarestan (D. Aghmashenebeli Ave 132), which recreates recipes from the cookbook of Barbare Jorjadze, a 19th-century princess and the nation’s first feminist.

Supra duper The amount of food served at a supra – a traditional festive Georgian banquet – may seem nonsensical.

Oven-hot bread, comforting soups and stews such as chakapuli (Stalin’s favourite), along with homemade Get a bird’s eye view of lemonades are just a sampling, with plates piled high and glasses filled before you’ve had a the capital from Mount chance to empty them. Don’t resist or you Mtatsminda, which stands an imposing 700 risk offending your Georgian hosts, who take metres above sea level. their food (and their toasts) very seriously.

Ride the funicular all the way to the top, where an Hide and seek homestyle cooking amusement park, cafés and You may need local intel to track down Keto entertainment spots await, & Kote (3 Mikheil Zandukeli Dead End), one including a dinosaur park and mirror maze. of Tbilisi’s most authentic and in-demand

Veg out at home Tbilisi is flush with art cafés, quaint gallery-esque eateries with a penchant for quirky, homely interiors, and Cafe Leila (18 Ioane Shavteli St) is surely one of the loveliest, with Persian-inspired art and a cosy ambience. With scrumptious cakes, lemonades and compôtes, the cuisine is healthy and vegetarian friendly.

restaurants, set in a charming restored courtyard house in the Old Town. The chef hails from the western Samegrelo region, known for its cheese, so elarji (cornmeal with sulguni cheese) is a must try.

In the family Cafe Linville’s (4/6 Gia Abesadze St) floral wallpaper and kooky interiors make it feel like the home of an eccentric aunt – only, instead of dusty sofas and six cats, this particular aunt serves up outstanding Georgian classics. The vintage décor and live piano music add to the cosy atmosphere.

Tbilisi and chill Is it a café, is it a club, is it a gallery? No one seems to know. But one thing’s certain: Art-Cafe Home (Betlemi 13), set in a three-storey house in Tbilisi’s historic district, is perennially popular. Along with a gallery downstairs, the venue has worn-in sofas, clever cocktails and a rooftop with glorious views of the city; managing to blend going out with staying in, in rather genius fashion.

64 World Traveller

Cheese-stuffed khachapuri flatbread

GEORGIA

WHERE TO STAY River Side Hotel Tbilisi A stay here puts you at the heart of the historical and architectural centre of Tbilisi – with the hotel positioned directly in front of Mshrali Bridge and next to a park in which Georgian masters show their paintings. Rooms are richly decorated, and feature either a balcony or terrace, allowing guests to soak up the view of Mtkvari River.

#

Dry Bridge Flea Market

LOCAL BUYS Soviet relics During the bleak years of Soviet rule, cash-strapped Tbilisi residents would sell their worldly possessions on blankets and sheets at the Dry Bridge Flea Market, open daily near Dedaena Park. Today, it’s a bonanza for anyone interested in Soviet memorabilia, though come armed with patience and wear your haggling hat. A faded Lenin portrait, vintage military medals and antique radios are just some of the treasures you can find.

travelgoals If you’re invited to a Georgian home, it’s customary to bring a gift like sweets or an odd number of flowers

Shota Rustaveli Boutique Hotel This designer bolthole has 38 rooms and suites with a chic aesthetic – timber-clad floors, exposed beams and eye-catching art. It’s just an amble to Rustaveli Avenue, though in a quiet side street, with the on-site Melograno restaurant serving both Georgian and Italian cuisine.

The Biltmore Hotel Tbilisi The irony of a luxurious hotel set in the former Marx-EngelsLenin Institute might make you chortle, but the five-star trimmings – think grandiose interiors, a pool and a decadent spa – certainly won’t. It has a premier location on Rustaveli Avenue.

Be bookish There’s a charming sense of yesteryear at Books Cafe (37 Mikheili Tsinamdzghvrishvili St), which has floral wallpaper, an antiquated charm and shelves of vintage books to thumb through. For rare tomes, Tbilisi’s Museum of Books (5 Lado Gudiashvili St) is the largest in the entire Caucasus.

Made in Georgia The fashion world has fixed its monocle on Tbilisi ever since Georgian-born designer Demna Gvasalia, of Balenciaga and Vetements fame, arrived on the scene.

For emerging designers, head to fashion collective Matériel, or try Chaos, an industrial-style concept store with indoor skate ramp and homegrown brands.

The Biltmore Hotel Tbilisi

World Traveller 65

WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI

Curtain up

Music and dance enthusiasts are descending on the UAE capital this month to kick-start the new season of Abu Dhabi Classics concerts

The vibrant arts and culture scene in the UAE capital has a musical focus from October, as the Abu Dhabi Classics series of concerts enters its eighth season.

Every year from October to April, giants of the performing arts world from East to West are invited to perform in the opulent setting of the Emirates Palace auditorium, the stunning Manarat Al Saadiyat arts complex on Saadiyat Island, and within the walls of Al Ain’s historic Bin Hamoodah Fort.

This year’s line-up of high profile concerts is no less impressive and kicking off the season on 12 October at Emirates Palace is the Camerata Salzburg Orchestra and acclaimed violin virtuoso Renaud Capuçon, who will perform Mozart’s Violin Concertos No.4 and No.5 and Gnossiennes, an exhilarating piece of work by early 20th century minimalist composer, Erik Satie.

Emerging talent is also given a platform to perform in front of an appreciative 66 World Traveller

international audience with the La Scala Academy Rising Stars ballet company taking to the Emirates Palace stage on 9 November for a trio of performances. First performed by the Imperial Ballet in St Petersburg, Russia in 1877, La Bayadère will headline the evening with excerpts from Gymnopedie and Danish ballet, Napoli, creating a truly cross-cultural experience.

The lilting sounds of the classic harp and strains of the grand piano have their turn in December with a brace of concerts featuring renowned French harpist Xavier de Maistre, who will perform at Manarat Al Saadiyat on 6 December and in the unique outdoor courtyard setting of Al Ain’s Bin Hamoodah Fort.

Abu Dhabi will also make history in 2019. Set to be the highlight of this season of Abu Dhabi Classics, Bayreuth Festival artistic director Katharina Wagner, the great-granddaughter of legendary 19th century German composer Richard

Wagner, will lead the international opera debut of Wagner’s The Valkyrie – the first time ever that this has been performed outside Germany.

With only 60,000 tickets sold each year and a decade-long waiting list to attend a Wagner opera performance, fans will have a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to bag a seat with two exclusive performances in January and February at Emirates Palace. In tandem with the musical drama unfolding on stage, concert-goers will be treated to a feature-length film, directed by Katharina Wagner, as a backdrop to the main event.

The hottest ticket on the emirate’s classical music and performing arts scene with three amazing locations and seven spectacular concerts to choose from, don’t miss your chance to be part of this new season.

To find out more, visit abudhabimusic.ae

TRAVEL NOTES

1

2

My Great Escapes

6

Travel photographer Mike Mattera (@witness), who hails from NYC, shares his vibrant travel experiences, and why Dubai is one of his favourite destinations 1. Discovering Benagil Cave in Albufeira.

On my first trip to Europe, the natural sea caves

3

at this holiday spot in Portugal were at the top of my must-see list. I boarded a boat to this gorgeous hidden beach filled with natural beauty.

2. Admiring the twinkling city lights at Dubai Marina. Dubai is one of my favourite destinations.

Everything from the architecture to the culture of the city fascinates me. Seeing the Dubai Marina skyline illuminated by night, and the colourful reflection in the water really took my breath away.

3. Cruising the Pacific Coast highway. Driving from San Francisco to San Diego was something I had always wanted to do. I rented a car, and took my time, stopping in Malibu to see the waves roll in.

4. Orange skies in Aruba. I was sitting on this Caribbean island beach waiting for the sun to go down, but with lots of cloud cover it didn’t seem

5

very promising. Just as I was getting ready to go back inside, the sun exploded across the sky to

4

present one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. 5. Beach villa living in the Maldives.

Maldives is famous for its overwater villas, but on this particular trip I was lucky enough to stay in one of the beachfront villas surrounded by nature, with a private stretch of sand just steps away. It was an unforgettable Indian Ocean island experience.

6. A bird’s eye view of Central Park. It's easy to take New York for granted when you live there.

Seeing it from a different perspective occasionally, as I did from Mandarin Oriental, New York, helps me appreciate it all over again.

World Traveller 67

WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT

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CM

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CMY

K

STAYCATION

Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort Featuring the UAE's only over water villas, this Thai-style resort beckons luxury seekers THE ROOMS Set along a pristine private beach, this picturesque property will draw you in with its serene vibe. Featuring the only Over Water Villas in the emirate, with rooms that offer direct access to three chilled swimming pools, it's the perfect retreat for those seeking an idyllic beach break within easy reach of the city.

Deluxe Family Lagoon Access Rooms have a separate floor for the kids.

THE FOOD Nourishment comes in the form of seven dining venues, including the swimup Mai Bar where you can stick a straw in a coconut and feast on a fresh fruit platter. Asian restaurant Mekong is a stylish setting, with rickshaw-style seats and hand-carved wooden tables at which to taste exotic dishes. For impressive Gulf views, head to Crescendo for global fare, including Middle Eastern favourites.

THE ACTIVITIES There are plenty of opportunities to take a dunk, with scenic cruises and watersports, such as thrilling banana boat rides, on tap. If you prefer to conserve your energy, head to Anantara Spa where an impressive line-up of rejuvenating treatments await. We recommend the Revitalising Citrus Drench (60 minutes), which pampers sun-damaged skin with a blend of hydrating nutrients.

To find out more, call +971 4 567 8888 or visit anantara.com 68 World Traveller

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THAI-INSPIRED LUXURY ON DUBAI’S ICONIC PALM JUMEIRAH.

Whatever your vision of the perfect vacation – be it a fun family beach holiday, honeymoon romance or just relaxing in beachfront exclusivity Å&#x; $QDQWDUD 7KH 3DOP 'XEDL 5HVRUW RijHUV D XQLTXHO\ OX[XULRXV HVFDSH inspired by Thai exoticism and the heartbeat of Dubai.

Unwind in an enchanting Beach Pool Villa, with your very own private LQıQLW\ SRRO 6RDN XS WUDQTXLO $UDELDQ *XOI YLHZV IURP \RXU 2YHU :DWHU 9LOOD 6WHS VWUDLJKW IURP \RXU URRP LQWR WKH FU\VWDO FOHDU ZDWHUV RI RXU VTXDUH PHWUH ODJRRQ SRROV &XOLQDU\ MRXUQH\V H[FLWH ZLWK D PHODQJH RI PRXWKZDWHULQJ IJDYRXUV 7KH SUHVWLJLRXV VDQFWXDU\ RI $QDQWDUD 6SD UHMXYHQDWHV DQG UHQHZV IURP D UDQJH RI LQVSLUDWLRQDO WUHDWPHQWV WR LQGXOJHQW ULWXDOV LQ WKH 7XUNLVK +DPPDP

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WORLD TRAVELLER X QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA

STAYCATION

Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara Traverse the dunes on camelback and glamp under the stars at this authentic desert resort THE ROOMS Curate your very own Arabian adventure at this luxurious oasis located in the Empty Quarter on the outskirts of Abu Dhabi. Make the most of the winter weather and go glamping under the stars or, for an even more exclusive experience, reserve a Royal Pavilion Pool Villa. Set in a secluded spot away from the main resort, take a dip in your private pool and soak up the panoramic views.

THE FOOD Scenic dining spots are easy to come by here, with options to eat poolside or amid the dunes. Sip sundowners at the rooftop lounge before heading to Al Falaj for a Bedouin camp style evening meal. You can personalise the foodie experience further thanks to the resort's Dining by Design concept, which invites you to a candlelit table on the sand – you can even design your own menu with your personal chef.

THE ACTIVITIES Dive into the glistening swimming pool that lends this resort its modern oasis vibe before enjoying a traditional Moroccan hammam at the spa. Dune driving, horse riding and fat biking (following a local guide on a specially adapted mountain bike) are thrilling ways to see more of the stunning landscape.

Venturing out to see Moreeb Dune – the tallest in the UAE – is a must-do.

To find out more, call +971 2 886 2088 or visit anantara.com 70 World Traveller

JOURNEY INTO THE SPIRIT OF ARABIA. Relax and unwind as you breathe in the mystical charm of the Rub’ Al Khali.

Discover unparalleled desert luxury and cultural passion just 90 minutes from Abu Dhabi. Trek the footsteps of the Bedouin and create a thousand timeless moments in a luxury desert oasis.

To book your stay, call +971 (0) 2 895 8700 or email crome@anantara.com

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com CAMBODIA • CHINA • INDONESIA • MALDIVES • MOZAMBIQUE • OMAN • PORTUGAL • QATAR • SRI LANKA • THAILAND • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES • VIETNAM • ZAMBIA

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INSPIRED BY

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World Traveller 73

THE FANTASTIC FOUR

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3 nights starting from USD299 per person

Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Offer: 20% discount on room rate.

Valid from: Now until 15 Dec 2018.

MALAYSIA

Dhigali Maldives Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore

THE WESTIN LANGKAWI RESORT & SPA

4 nights starting from USD285 per person

Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Offer: 20% discount on room rate.

Valid from: Now until 24 Dec 2018.

TANZANIA

THE RESIDENCE ZANZIBAR

4 nights starting from USD800 per person

Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Luxury Garden Pool villa with breakfast and dinner daily and return airport transfers.

Offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free, and 15% discount on room rate.

Valid from: Now until 20 Dec 2018.

World Traveller 75

DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS

Emirates Palace

Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights Residences

WEEKEND ESCAPES

Queen Elizabeth 2

UAE

QUEEN ELIZABETH 2 2 nights starting from USD113 per person Special offer: Three complimentary passes to Laguna Waterpark; 1 child under 12 years stay free; and enjoy a late checkout until 4pm.

Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily.

Valid from: Now until 30 Oct 2018.

BVLGARI RESORT DUBAI 5 nights starting from USD1,909 per person Special offer: Stay 4 nights and receive an additional night free.

Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast and return airport transfers.

Valid from: Now until 26 Jan 2018.

RODA BEACH RESORT, DUBAI 1 night starting from USD145 per person Special offer: Special rate Includes: Stay in a Studio with breakfast and return airport transfers.

Valid from: Now until 31 Oct 2018.

HYATT REGENCY DUBAI CREEK HEIGHTS RESIDENCES 1 night starting from USD156 per person Special offer: Special rate.

How to book

76 World Traveller

Bvlgari Resort Dubai

Includes: Stay in a Studio with breakfast and return airport transfers.

Valid from: Now until 24 Dec 2018.

EMIRATES PALACE, ABU DHABI 1 night starting from USD418 per person Special offer: 10% discount on room rate.

Includes: Stay in a Coral Room with breakfast and return airport transfers.

Valid from: Now until 6 Jan 2019.

MARRIOTT HOTEL AL FORSAN, ABU DHABI 1 night starting from USD108 per person Special offer: Special rate.

Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast and return airport transfers.

Valid from: Now until 11 Nov 2018.

Marriott Hotel Al Forsan Kempinski Hotel Muscat

OMAN

KEMPINSKI HOTEL MUSCAT 2 nights starting from USD487 per person Special offer: 30% discount on room rate.

Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast and dinner daily and return airport transfers.

Validity: Now until 4 Jan 2019.

By calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666

By stepping into a dnata outlet or by visiting dnatatravel.com

Roda Beach Resort

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.

THE PERFECT SKI HOLIDAY All-Inclusive by Club Med 7 NIGHTS, ALL-INCLUSIVE + FLIGHTS FROM AED8,899pp*

All-Inclusive package includes:

Premium Rooms Gourmet Cuisine

Beverages

Expert Childcare Over 60 sports

Ski Lift Pass

...and so much more!

Experience originality at Club Med Saint Moritz Roi Soleil nestled at the foot of the Swiss Alps â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the birthplace of Alpine Skiing, an ideal choice for an All-Inclusive, hassle free skiing holiday.

Find out more at www.dnatatravel.com To book call 800 DNATA (36282) or speak to us in-store Download our app

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*Terms & conditions applied. Price is per person based on two people staying seven nights at the 4* Club Med Saint Moritz Soleil Hotel on a all-inclusive basis, with return economy flights. Traveling between 01/12/2018 to 31/03/2019. Subject to availability.

Ski Lessons

Operated by

EADY

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TO G

FROM

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US$ 89

READY TO GO RATE Book today for the best price guaranteed

PER DAY Value tours without compromise CostSaver offers you incredible experiences and value, whether you’re a first time traveller or a repeat guest.

You’ll enjoy iconic sights, quality hotels and up to half your evening meals.

CostSaver is operated by Trafalgar, experts in guided travel and the industry leader with over 70 years of experience. This means that we have the best of both worlds; expertise and unbeatable prices.

TOP TRIPS FROM NOV' 18 - APR' 19

Jewels of Italy 7 Days From US$ 975

VALUE INCLUSIONS

Wonders of Turkey 11 Days From US$ 975

Britain and Ireland Delight 7 Days From US$ 995

•

3 and 4-star hotels

•

A Trafalgar trained, expert travel director

•

Complimentary Transfers to and from the airport on the first and last day of the tour*

•

Luxury air-conditioned coach with WIFI

•

Breakfast Daily and select dinners

•

All baggage handling, hotel charges and local

•

Must see sights included, with a choice of optional experiences

taxes

*Rates mentioned are starting from prices, per person on twin share and subject to change. Please refer to our website for current updated prices. “Book Early savings are not valid on CostSaver trips”. Prices do not include airfare, visa charges & travel insurance. Other T&C may apply.

Email us at contactcentre@dnata.com • Call +971 4 316 6666

DIGITAL

Anantara The Palm Resort Dubai

Happy GET CLICK

Twiddling your thumbs between issues? Simply visit worldtravellermagazine.com for even more travel inspo, and carry on the conversation on our social channels

#dnataworldtraveller Mekong restaurant

Need a holiday? We've teamed up with Anantara The Palm Resort Dubai to give away a two-night stay for two, inclusive of daily breakfast and one dinner at Mekong.

Enter on our website to be in with a chance of winning.

SHARE YOUR SNAPS Show us all the places you've been exploring by tagging us in your best photos

Hot air balloons in Cappadocia @directormesut

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TRAVEL TOP 100 Check out our 100 musthave travel experiences, exclusively on our website

Follow us on Instagram @dnataworldtraveller to double tap our dreamy destination shots and tag us in your images for a chance to feature on our wall.

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TRAVEL INSPIRATION AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

Available on your desktop, tablet and smartphone World Traveller 79

Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

Marina Bay Suite

Mandarin Oriental Singapore Marina Bay, to which this splendid suite looks out to – through floor-to-ceiling wraparound windows and from a snug terrace that’s magical under the moonlight – has come to symbolise modern Singapore, all shiny steel and glass skyscrapers. Yet there’s a timeless quality to this stalwart of the area, which is shaped like a fan as a nod to the MO’s logo, and a confidence in how it expresses elegance. That’s certainly true of the Marina Bay Suite, decorated in muted tones, featuring a separate living room and replete with discreet amenities that elevate your in-room time beyond mere comfort. As is the norm at a Mandarin Oriental, faultless service levels set the standard.

80 World Traveller

14-17 | 11 | 2018 Manarat Al Saadiyat Saadiyat Cultural District abudhabiart.ae

Monira Al Qadiri, Alien Technology (detail), 2014. Courtesy of the artist.

MODERN. CONTEMPORARY. ABU DHABI ART.

Inspiration. Expertly crafted.

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel, is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites, over 15 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams, a Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 treatment rooms, state-of-the-art health club and fitness facilities, as well as 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces.

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com