World Traveller - November'19

INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 139 | NOVEMBER 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Produced in Dubai Production City

GEORGIA BRAZIL STAYCATIONS TRAVEL OFFERS

The world´s best swims From sleek city rooftops to rugged lakes, we've got your next great swim sorted

Discover Milaidhoo Create your own story of a small island at the heart of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve with a wonderfully vibrant coral reef.

Discover re-invented luxury and spacious outdoor living in our contemporary, island-inspired villas, where you instantly feel you belong.

Find your place to simply be, to have meaningful experiences and enjoy barefoot informality.

Start your Milaidhoo Story at www.milaidhoo.com

Welcome note

Holidays are a coveted chance to refresh body and mind, and there's no better way to feel a sense of relaxation wash over you than by diving into a sparkling swimming pool. Our cover story on the world's best swims (p24) will point you in th

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Chief Creative Officer John Thatcher General Manager David Wade Managing Editor Faye Bartle faye@hotmedia.me Content Writers Habiba Azab habiba@hotmedia.me Sophia Dyer

right direction, with it's round-up of scenic places to take the plunge. From the salty allure of Jordan's Dead Sea to the rugged beauty of the Lake District and glamorous rooftop pools to dip a toe in... all you need is your best swimwear.

Also in this issue, we take you glamping in Georgia (p36) and on a journey through vibrant Bahia in Brazil (p42). If Venice is on your bucketlist, why not resolve to squeeze in a long weekend there before the end of the year? Our guide to ticking off all those major sites, as well as seeking out some of the lesser-known gems (p48), provides all the know-how you need to make your trip a great one.

Last but not least, this issue is jam-packed with staycation ideas (from p60), giving you plenty of reasons to make the most of the glorious weekend weather we're experiencing at the moment.

Happy travels, Faye Bartle

A two-night stay for two at JA The Resort in sunny Dubai, p79

Art Director Kerri Bennett

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Snacking on a banana may help to ease jet lag, due to its high levels of potassium, p20

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You can find the distinct coco de mer coconut at only two of the 115 Seychellean islands: Praslin and Curieuse, p56

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In the next few years, the Transcaucasian Trail, a long-distance hiking route being developed in the Caucasus, will link Svaneti to Ghebi, bringing more hikers to the stunning area, p36

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Win!

Editorial Assistant Ronak Sagar

FIVE THINGS WE LEARNED THIS ISSUE:

The reef-fringed island of Boipeba in Bahia, Brazil, is a hidden gem that seemingly packs more free-roaming wild horses than humans, p42

Senior Designer Hiral Kapadia Senior Advertising Manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmedia.me Production Manager Muthu Kumar

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INSPIRED BY

Photography credits: Getty Images and Phocal Media Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media is strictly prohibited.

HOT Media does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

COVER IMAGE The Skypool at Shangri-La Hotel, At The Shard, London

Find us at‌ ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com

A cultural showpiece, Venetian masks shine with their glitzy designs and, at Ca'Macana, you can craft your own bespoke piece, p48

FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME INSTAGRAM @worldtravellerme TWITTER @WTravellerME

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Contents November 2019 The Garden Route, South Africa

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

regulars 10

15

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This month's goto places include vibrant Kathmandu and Morocco's little Hollywood, Ouarzazate.

Winter sun or snow... we've got your next holiday covered. Plus, the best Sri Lankan beach spots at which to catch the perfect wave.

Sleep expert and psychologist Dr. David Lewis shares his top tips on how to get a good night's sleep while on holiday.

Head online for exclusive content and, better still, the chance to win a two-night stay at JA The Resort in sunny Dubai.

Soak up the scenic views of the snow-capped Swiss Alps from the comfort of the Corner Junior Suite at Carlton Hotel St. Moritz.

TRENDING DESTINATIONS

GLOBETROTTER

THE KNOWLEDGE

DIGITAL DOWNLOAD

SUITE DREAMS

worldtravellermagazine.com 7

CONTENTS

features

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36

42

Stylish skypools, crystal clear lagoons and whitesand coves, here's where to plan your next dip.

Yvonne Gorden goes beyond Tbilisi to uncover a paradise of hiking, homestays and upmarket camping in Georgia.

Alex Robinson explores a world of street parties, white sands and coralsnorkelling in Bahia.

THE WORLD'S 33 BEST SWIMS

GLAMPING IT UP

BRAZILIAN BLOWOUT

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ISLAND LORE

Mysterious coconuts, voodoo dolls and otherworldly beaches, Sophia Dyer is spellbound by the Seychelles.

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Constance Ephelia Mahé Seychelles

SEYCHELLES

weekends 48

60

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With a classical beauty and marvellous tales, the Floating City awaits.

Feel in need of a break?

We have a few more reasons to book a weekend escape.

It's time we sent you packing. Choose your next adventure from our exclusive offers.

A LONG WEEKEND IN VENICE

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STAYCATIONS

TRAVEL OFFERS

Wellness Haven at Saray Spa. Renew for the journey ahead.

A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa, where ancient healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the well-being of each guest. The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms, one Dead Sea treatment room boasting the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two Private Luxury Spa Suites. Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from the resultsoriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious gifts and spa products for every occasion.

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com *Terms and conditions: Offer is subject to availability and advance reservations are required. This is a limited time offer.

TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month

The Garden Route

Spring is in full swing at this South African beauty spot, with its blooming wildflowers painting the landscape in vivid colours. Embark on a road trip to explore this scenic region and marvel at the incredible beaches, mountains, forests and lakes that line its winding roads. You won't have a minute to spare with all the wildlife thrills on offer, including whale watching at Plettenberg Bay, scuba diving, and caving adventures (the Cango Caves are a must-see).

Highlights 1 Get a bird's eye view of the Kaaimans River winding its way through the countryside at the Map of Africa viewpoint at Wilderness Heights. 2 Grab your binoculars and head to Bontebok National Park, which is credited with bringing the native bontebok antelope back from the brink of extinction. 3 Take the canopy tour at Tsitsikamma, and zipline past the giant trees this nature spot protects.

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Ouarzazate

Known as the 'Hollywood of Morocco', the city of Ouarzazate is home to Ait Ben Haddou fortified village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which has served as a filming location for hit movies and telelvision shows, including Gladiator and Game of Thrones. At the edge of the city, you'll find Taourirt Kasbah, a stunning 19th century palace. Follow the maze of stairwells to the top and watch the sun set against the backdrop of Morocco’s desert landscape.

Highlights 1 Meet berber people at Tassoumaat Old District Medina. The cosy neighbourhood promises an authentic local experience. 2 Watch skilled female artisans work on hanbel carpets and embroidered straw mats at CoopĂŠrative de Tissage.

3 Movie buffs can continue the quest for behind the scenes insight by visiting Atlas Film Studios, which is home to lots of old movie sets and is where scenes for silver screen successes including Lawrence of Arabia, The Mummy and The Living Daylights were shot.

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Ras Al Khaimah

As the temperature drops across the UAE, this northernmost emirate calls intrepid travellers with its wide expanse of white-sand beaches, fascinating wildlife and majestic mountaintops. Make Jebel Jais, the country's highest peak, the jumping-off spot for your adventure. Whether it's shooting down the world's longest zip line, setting off on a challenging hike, or basking in the tranquil desert, it's a thrill-a-minute kind of place.

Highlights 1 Amateur detectives will view the town of Al Jazirat Al Hamra as a mystery worth solving, with its abandoned buildings and ghostly tales. 2 Take a dip in the mineral-rich hot pools of Khatt springs and let the sulphurous waters envelop you. 3 Pay a visit to the National Museum of Ras Al Khaimah, which proudly exhibits a collection of historical, ethnographical and archaeological treasures.

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Kathmandu

The gateway to Mount Everest, Nepal's capital is garnering worldwide attention for its vibrant culture, delicious food and warm hospitality. Explore the historic city and admire the Newari architecture before boarding a plane and setting off on a scenic flight across the mountains. It's a brilliant way to see the world's tallest peak in all its majesty, without having to attempt the difficult feat of climbing it.

Highlights 1 Get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and unwind amid lush foliage at the neo classical Garden of Dreams. 2 Huff and puff your way up the Swayambhunath Monkey Temple (it's more than 365 steps), which is home to hundreds of monkeys considered holy to Tibetan Buddhists. 3 Trawl Thamel market for keepsakes, such as singing bowls and luxurious pashminas.

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JOURNEY INTO THE SPIRIT OF ARABIA. Relax and unwind as you breathe in the mystical charm of the Rub’ Al Khali.

Discover unparalleled desert luxury and cultural passion just 90 minutes from Abu Dhabi. Trek the footsteps of the Bedouin and create a thousand timeless moments in a luxury desert oasis.

To book your stay, call +971 (0) 2 895 8700 or email crome@anantara.com

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

CAMBODIA • CHINA • INDONESIA • MALDIVES • MOZAMBIQUE • OMAN • PORTUGAL • QATAR • SRI LANKA • THAILAND • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES • VIETNAM • ZAMBIA

Globetrotter NOVEMBER

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Be informed, be inspired, be there

A NEW CHAPTER BEGINS Follow in the footsteps of Hollywood stars, including Greta Garbo, by descending on the glamorous Eden Rock – St. Barths, which is re-opening its doors this month (on 20 November) following a two-year renovation. The Caribbean bolthole, which was founded by adventurer Rémy de Haenen and has been welcoming guests since the 1950s, has a fresh new look, with notable additions such as the stylish Rémy Bar. Live it up inside the Villa Rockstar, a sprawling beach house that wows with its ultra luxurious touches. worldtravellermagazine.com 15

GLOBETROTTER

WALK WITH GORILLAS Hike your way through the misty bamboo forest of Volcanoes National Park and track endangered mountain gorillas while on the Virunga experience offered by the new One&Only Gorilla's Nest in Rwanda. Seeing these captivating animals in their natural habitat is one to tick off the bucket list.

WILD TIMES Be at one with nature and get an up-close view of wildlife at these luxury resorts

WAKE UP IN A ZOO At Taronga Zoo's newlyopened Wildlife Retreat you can rise and shine to the sight of koalas dangling outside your window and red kangaroos hopping past. This eco-retreat, which overlooks Sydney Harbour, aims to educate while delivering a touch of luxury.

One &Only Gorilla's Nest

TAKE A WILD DRIVE Embark on a wildlife drive at Desert Islands Resort & Spa

by Anantara, off the coast of Abu Dhabi, and you'll be rewarded by the sight of freeroaming animals, including the protected Arabian oryx.

ON OUR RADAR Game of Thrones fans may recognise Malta's Fort Manoel as the starshaped mediaeval fort at which Ned Stark met his demise. Restored to its original glory, it is now open to the pubic. Go discover its deep-seated history and marvel at its stunning architecture.

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Team an exotic beach break with earning your eco stripes at Six Senses Zil Pasyon in the Seychelles.

The luxury resort has a coral restoration programme, which offers a coveted chance to help repair the marine ecosystems of FĂŠlicitĂŠ and learn more about the reef.

If you admire the beauty of Holland's vibrant tulip fields, then why not help to plant them? The Tulip Planting package (until 6 Dec) at Amsterdam's Conservatorium Hotel is a great way to swot up on the history of the region while helping farmers prepare for the upcoming season.

Form meets function in new Hawke collection of bags for adventure seekers by Bally.

Whether it's a backpack, messenger bag or crossbody pouch you're after, each piece is tailored to meet your travel needs. bally.com

GLOBETROTTER

THIS MONTH'S NEW HOTELS Pack your bags, and set off on an adventure

A TROPICAL ESCAPE FCC Angkor, Siem Reap With hints of Frenchtropical architecture, this nature-inspired resort is born from an extensive renovation of one of the area's most treasured colonial sites: the former mansion of the French colonial governor and the Foreign Correspondent’s Club. Home to 80 rooms and suites, the property is steps away from the Royal Independence Gardens and Royal Residence.

FCC Angkor

FEELS LIKE HOME Rocco Forte House, Piazza di Spagna, Rome Those seeking total privacy will find all the seclusion they need at this historic 18th century palazzo. Just five lavish suites await, with a dedicated house manager on hand to tend to your every whim. Head to the cosy rooftop terrace to admire the views of the famous Spanish Steps.

NATURAL WONDERLAND The Oberoi, Marrakech Natural beauty abounds at this picturesque resort (opening on 1 December), which is surrounded by 28 acres of landscaped gardens complete with citrus orchards, olive groves and views of the snowcapped Atlas Mountains. It's just 25-minutes away from Djema el-Fna square and the ancient walled city.

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GLOBETROTTER

SUN VS. SNOW

Silversands Grenada

Whether you want to soak up the rays or ski down the slopes this winter, we've got you covered THE CARIBBEAN

SILVERSANDS GRENADA Island life beckons at this exclusive hideaway, which encourages you to make the most of the glorious winter weather with its thrilling line-up of adventurous pursuits, from hiking to watersports. Explore the lush jungle, white sand beaches and shimmering waters and bask in the inimitable Caribbean glow. You'll find us lazing around the infinity pool.

ICELAND

DEPLAR FARM The expanse of snow-dusted mountains that surround this chic lodge deliver the most exhilarating skiing and snowboarding adventures.

But the fun doesn't end there, as sea kayaking and whale watching in the fjords are just some of the other activities on offer at this luxury abode located deep in the Icelandic wilderness. After a day of fast-paced action, unwind in the geothermally heated outdoor pool and wait for the elusive Northern Lights to dance their way across the sky.

Deplar Farm

Will travel for food. A delicious excuse for a break, Chef Mauro Colagreco (of threeMichelin-starred Mirazur fame) has teamed up with One&Only Royal Mirage in Dubai to bring his culinary flair to two dining venues there. worldtravellermagazine.com 18 worldtravellermagazine.com

Mirissa Beach

GLOBETROTTER

SURF'S UP It's surfing season in Sri Lanka. Here's where to catch a wave...

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MIRISSA BEACH Matara South of Weligama, this hidden gem is one of Sri Lanka's best kept secrets. Lush palm trees enhance the scenic landscape as you work your way to perfecting that reef break. If you're lucky, you may even spot a migrating blue whale or get to play with a pod of friendly dolphins.

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HIKKADUWA BEACH Galle Consistent waves makes this idyllic spot a must-do for surfers of all skill levels.

Beginners will appreciate the way waves form and peel away smoothly towards the shore.

Come prepared though, as the local Hikkaduwa surfers have a flair for competition – get set to see some moves.

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UNAWATUNA BEACH Galle Turn a day of surfing fun into a family affair at this kid-friendly beach. Ride the waves with your little ones in tow as they splash away in the water. Want to know where the good swells are?

Simply ask the locals. They're always very happy to point out the perfect spots.

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KNOW-HOW

The Knowledge HOW TO...

Sleep well while you’re on holiday It may be the last thing on your mind while you're on an exciting holiday, but getting a good night’s slumber will help you enjoy your break to the max A whopping 80% of travellers struggle to sleep when staying away from home, says recent research*. Settling into a new environment and hearing unfamiliar noises are among the top sleep saboteurs that can leave you tossing and turning in the early hours, but feeling far from rested may mean your holiday experience falls flat. We picked the brains of Dr David Lewis, a sleep expert, chartered psychologist and CEO of Mindlab International, for his top tips on getting the shut eye you need to seize the day…

“When travelling across time zones, especially with children, set your watch to the local time in the area you are visiting the moment your flight takes off,” says Dr Lewis. It’ll help you to adjust more easily on the other side.

Plus, flying can take a toll on the mind but not the body, so be sure to get some light exercise – even a 10-minute stroll in the fresh air once you touch down can work wonders.

can make it harder to sleep.” As you may already do at home, avoid caffeine and screen time three hours prior to bedtime, and try to stick to your usual routine as much as possible in order to trigger the body and mind to prepare for sleep.

racing around your mind the moment your head touches the pillow. A warm, relaxing bath is a better way to end the day than a shower which tends to make you feel more wide-awake.” Reading a few pages of a good book has been proven to help unwind the mind.

PERSONALISE YOUR ROOM

EAT SLUMBER-INDUCING FOODS

“If you have difficulty dropping off when you’re away from home, bring a couple of personal possessions with you on your travels, such as photos of your loved ones [if you’re travelling solo], a lucky charm or, for children, a favourite doll or teddy bear,” says Dr Lewis.

“Placing them on the bedside table and looking at them before you turn off the light will help you settle into a more comfortable and familiar mindset.”

“Dehydration is common among travellers, even on short haul trips, so make sure you stay well hydrated,” says Dr Lewis. “The ideal bedtime tipple is a warm milky drink. Milk contains the sleep-inducing substance tryptophan and warming it up releases milk sugars that feed the body during sleep.”

If you need a snack, reach for a banana. “It also contains tryptophan and has a high potassium content that helps prevent nighttime cramps while also fighting jet-lag.”

DRIFT OFF TO YOUR FAVOURITE SCENT

KEEP UP YOUR GOOD HABITS “Make sure the bed is warm, but the room is cool and well aired,” he suggests. “Also keep the room as dark as possible, as even a small amount of light, such as the LED on a TV or radio, 20 worldtravellermagazine.com

STILL THE MIND “If you have something on your mind, try writing it down,” he says. “This will help prevent distracting thoughts

“The brain is extremely sensitive to unfamiliar smells and aromas, and while these may be hard to avoid, they can often be masked by bringing along your own favourite essential oil and sprinkling it on the pillow,” says Dr Lewis. “The six most effective oils for this purpose are: clary sage, lavender, roman chamomile, sweet marjoram and valerian**.”

Dr. David Lewis has teamed up with Sheraton Grand London Park Lane and Hatchards, the oldest bookseller in London, to curate an exclusive library of books to read before bedtime to help guests get a good night’s sleep.

*By InterContinental Hotel Group. **Consult your doctor before using aromatherapy oils.

GET IN THE TIMEZONE

WORLD TRAVELLER XXXXXXXXXXXXX X SCTDA

WHERE LUXURY RULES

Arabian heritage meets bespoke luxury at Sharjah’s most coveted staycation spots

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ich in art and cultural attractions, and with stunning natural landscapes to discover, Sharjah’s unique blend of modern marvels and old-world charm is a magnet for intrepid travellers. Today, the emirate is firmly on the radar as a leading destination for a staycation. Here are three of the best luxury hotels to escape to…

THE BOUTIQUE BOLTHOLE Looking at this stunning rustic retreat, you wouldn’t guess it was once (in the 1960s) a simple grocery store and café. Boasting a fresh new look, Al Faya Lodge & Spa now sits on the crimson sands of Mount Alvaah as the latest addition to the Sharjah Collection, a group of boutique hotels scattered across the emirate. Whether it's lounging by the open-air saltwater pool, indulging in an Arabian style spa retreat or marvelling at the thousands of stars from the rooftop terrace,

the lodge is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

THE EXCLUSIVE ECO RETREAT Immerse yourself in the stunning natural wonders the emirate has to offer at Sharjah’s new five-star eco-tourism resort, Kalba Kingfisher Lodge. Offering comfort and privacy in spades, the boutique hotel is set against an unspoiled backdrop of the Indian Ocean and a forest of mangrove (Qurm) trees, which is home to a number of fascinatingly beautiful kingfishers and other rare bird species. Wake up to the sound of crashing waves from any of the 25 luxuriously appointed tents, each with its own swimming pool, and lap up the views.

Find out more at visitsharjah.com

Photo: Kalba Kingfisher Lodge

THE STYLISH ABODE Feel right at home and bask in true Arabian hospitality at Al Bait Sharjah. Located at the heart of Sharjah, the 53-room boutique resort is a unique collection of five preserved heritage houses that were once owned by esteemed Emirati families. It’s also home to impressive architectural sights, including the UAE’s only round wind tower, as well as an

in-house museum that showcases the city’s rich history. Retreat to the spa for a soothing massage, cool off in the outdoor swimming pool, or sit down at the Arabic restaurant for a true taste of Arabia as trained chefs cook up a delicious spread of local delicacies.

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Nature's bounty

The island of Sir Bani Yas is brimming with history, nature and wildlife. Add a splash of luxury, and you’ve got the perfect Abu Dhabi island getaway

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WORLD TRAVELLER X DESERT ISLANDS RESORT & SPA BY ANANTARA

T

ucked away inside the nature reserve of Sir Bani Yas island, Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara lures the most discerning travellers with its rugged beauty, thriving wildlife and Emirati-style splendour.

Just a two-hour drive from Abu Dhabi, this family-oriented retreat is part of the three luxurious Anantara resorts that grace Sir Bani Yas island – the others being the tranquil beach getaway of Anantara Al Yamm Villa Resort, and the Arabian adventure inspired Anantara Al Sahel Villa Resort.

Sink into plush bedding that envelops you in soft Egyptian cotton, wake up to stunning sea views, and cool off under the stylish rain showers. Floorto-ceiling glass doors allow natural light to cast your room in a soft glow and open up to a private balcony, where you can spend the day lounging with a good book. The Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara recently introduced its all-inclusive discovery package, which invites guests to unwind in one of the opulent rooms, suites or villas. Meals and drinks are included, as well as your choice of one activity per night stayed.

For a delectable meal, Amwaj restaurant draws upon the island’s sea riches to create scrumptious seafood dishes that will make your taste buds tingle. Here, you’ll enjoy the flavours of the ocean in more ways than one, with its fresh-out-of-theocean plates and stellar setting overlooking the sea.

Meanwhile, Al Shams Restaurant & Bar serves up Arabic favourites straight to your poolside lounger.

It’s so good you’ll want to take the flavours with you back home and with Spice Spoons, you can. The step-by-step class offers you a peek into authentic Arabian cooking techniques so you can whip up local delights in the comfort of your own home.

When you tire of lazing under the sun, hop in one of the safari Jeeps and set off on an exciting adventure as you encounter rare, free-roaming and exotic wildlife in the island’s reserve, including the prized Arabian oryx.

The Arabian Gulf’s sparkling waters will eventually beckon you to discover its stunning reef, while the magnetic charm of an Arabian stallion promises an unforgettable and liberating gallop through the desert’s sandy golden dunes. History buffs can also join an archaeological site tour to marvel at the uncovered remains of the UAE's only discovered Christian monastery.

Revive yourself with the resort’s signature spa treatment; the Desert Islands Retreat. A gentle full-body exfoliation with desert sands followed by a 90-minute desert fusion massage is the perfect ending to this action-packed retreat.

Stay amid natural beauty

Unwind and enjoy the gorgeous vistas

Dive in and discover a world of wonders

The all-inclusive discovery package starts from Dhs1,999 per night. To find out more, call +971 2 895 8700 or visit anantara.com worldtravellermagazine.com 23

The world’s

33 best swims

Bronte Baths, Sydney

Whether you prefer muscle-pumping laps across a rugged lake, or stargazing lazily on a city rooftop, we’ve got your swim sorted – to infinity pool and beyond!

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BEST SWIMS Adaaran Select Meedhupparu

POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE

Raa Atoll, the Maldives

If you’re lucky, you’re the first person here. You pad a virgin trail of footprints from bungalow to sea, and stretch out on the cool sand. Picking up snorkel gear, you chat with the hut attendant about recent star sightings (‘There’s a lionfish about — you might have to dive down to see it’), before your flippers propel you past the shallows, to that crescent of pulsating coral you’ve become addicted to. Here, 20 strokes from the beach and an arm’s length from your mask, sea that looked a blanket turquoise from your seaplane reveals swirls of Day-Glo parrotfish, sail-shaped Moorish idols and blue tangs. Then, there’s that surly lionfish. You watch its striped mohican slink down to where the reef drops off to an intimidating indigo. Head full of ocean colour scenes, you paddle back to laze by the pool for an hour at least.

That reef’s not going anywhere.

BUCKET-LIST DIP

SECRET SPLASH

HOTEL POOL HEAVEN

The Dead Sea, Jordan

Pigeon Island, St Lucia

Cleopatra bathed here, King David hid here from Saul, Jesus was baptised upriver — even Herod slipped on his Speedos for a dip. You’re floating in a sea of history, and the amazing thing is, despite the corporate hotel chains thronging the shores, it still feels transcendent. That salt stings, though, which is why it’s best to access the water via a hotel’s (with its freshwater pools and showers for after). Try to keep the salt out of any cuts or grazes, and don’t shave any part of your body the day you plunge!

You didn’t come here to swim, but you’ll miss out if you don’t. Pigeon Island is a former British military fort, now a national park, at St Lucia’s northern tip.

Stretch your legs on the spiralling hike to its hilltop, snapping the obligatory photo with the cannons there. You’ll be trekking back down just as the sticky heat of late morning sets in — so first slip down to the curves of sand on its south side for a secret swim. There’s a public loo to change in, and shade from the trees. Kick off your shoes and plunge into the Listerine-fresh ocean.

Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Lake Como Outside, you have the glittering expanse of Lake Como and a ‘secret’ garden pool — all visible from your room. Inside, there’s a velvet-red staircase to sweep down as you head for dinner in your best holiday togs. But, floating in the lake, as smugly as George Clooney on his hols is this special swim spot. It’ll get in the way of your Como sightseeing — lizard-still on the hotel’s loungers, drink in hand and the gelato-cool pool right by you, you’ll watch the tourist ferry pass by with no urge to move.

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BEST SWIMS

POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE

The Great Barrier Reef Zig-zag clouds of yellow snappers, tornadoes of electric-blue fusiliers and forests of rainbow staghorn coral: diving in the GBR is like swimming in a giant psychedelic cocktail. There are countless ways to explore this sprawling 2,300km-long reef, but if you’re serious about your sea life, head north to, say, the Ribbon Reefs, for the richest variety of fish. Accessed by seaplane, then a live-aboard boat, it’s not the

easiest or cheapest spot, but you get uncrowded waters and pristine coral for your trouble. Huge swathes of the reef were bleached by the El Niño weather phenomenon, so it’s vital to go with a responsible operator that knows where to find flourishing regrowth and how to prevent further damage. Conditions range from mirror-like (ideal for drifting alongside Labrador-sized potato cod) to choppy and wild, but even novices can dive here with a skilled team to guide them safely into the depths.

BUCKET LIST

Faraglione di Mezzo, Capri It was in front of this ancient oceanic arch that David Gandy smouldered for that Dolce & Gabbana advert — and Capri boat trips have never had a lull in business since. As life is not a fragrance ad, it’s choppier than you’d think, the deep water chilly ’til mid summer. So get your photo, take a dunk into depths as ice-blue as Gandy’s eyes, then climb back on board for a Prosecco. This swim is all about the posing, anyway.

3 POPCULTURE POOLS

THE ESTHER WILLIAMS ONE: The Raleigh, Miami Beach Hollywood’s ‘million- dollar mermaid’ filmed many of her sleek synchronisedswimming routines in this Art Deco pool. Now you can stay in her namesake suite.

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THE CLUB TROPICANA ONE: Pikes Hotel, Ibiza A mega-bronzed George Michael and Andrew Ridgeley cavorted by this slim, tiled pool for their holiday anthem’s music video.

Bring your own lilos/trumpets.

THE FAYE DUNAWAY ONE: Beverly Hills Hotel, Los Angeles Terry O’Neill’s ‘morning after’ portrait of Dunaway reflecting on her 1977 Oscar win made this pool synonymous with Hollywood glamour.

SECRET SPLASH

Mexico’s cenotes

Yucatán’s beaches can get a little TOWIE. For a more thrilling swim, drive 90 minutes inland to paddle under Gaudíesque rock formations and leap from vines into the fresh, teal water of the cenotes.

The peninsula is punctured with thousands of these prehistoric limestone sinkholes, overgrown with tropical jungle and open year-round.

Some, such as Dos Ojos, are cool, vaguely claustrophobic caverns; while others, like Escondido, are splashed with sunlight. It’s like swimming in a tropical luxury spa — clean, quiet, almost baptismal.

Sunscreen is verboten, unless it’s biodegradable. With hardly another body bobbing around, you’d think tourists were, too.

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3

WILDLIFE SWIMS

SWIM WITH DOLPHINS IN PUERTO VALLARTA, MEXICO Invest in an underwater camera or case: seeing a pod of these wild bottlenose dolphins frolicking around your flippers is a memory you’ll want to replay.

SNORKEL WITH WHALE SHARKS IN ARI ATOLL, MALDIVES This full-day excursion, run by the five-star Huvafen Fushi resort, makes snorkelling with these giants feel like a one-on-one.

Float calmly as they glide past.

DIVE WITH TURTLES IN SIPADAN, MALAYSIA Turtle-spotting off Sipadan Island doesn’t feel as intrusive with access limited to 120 people a day. Go April to September, when females nest on the beach.

POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE

La Maddalena, Sardinia Are you floating? Or are you flying?

The clarity of the water surrounding Sardinia’s virgin Maddalena archipelago can play tricks on you. As you lie suspended in the aquamarine liquid, ears submerged so that all sounds are dulled to a drowsy murmur, the sailboat that delivered you here looks as if it’s dangling in mid-air — it’s almost impossible to gauge where the sky ends and the sea begins. You knew Sardinia’s northeast coast would be a corker: its white-sand coves pick up best-beach awards as breezily as daisies. But the Maddalena islands’ shores are a notch up: so pristine and well-protected, the

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judges don’t yet know to add them to their shortlist. Of the 60-plus islands, you can only camp on a handful, so a boat trip is the best way to make this fantasy swim real. Dario, the skipper of ’20s wooden sailboat Pulcinella, knows the Maddalenas like his own children, and always delivers his group (of 12 max) there ahead of the pack. While he drops anchor, shimmy your way past others onto the first dinghy headed to shore — that way, yours will be the first body of the day to hit the crystal waters.

Go in September: the shallow bays are tub-warm and you might even spot a dolphin or two.

BEST SWIMS

BUCKET-LIST DIP

SECRET SPLASH

SKY-HIGH SWIM

Bondi Icebergs

The Fairy Pools, Isle of Skye

Pool or sea? The dilemma has never been more delicious than at Sydney’s iconic Bondi Beach, where the sandy southern reaches meet an Olympicsized, man-made swimming pool (and a smaller kids’ one) known as ‘the Icebergs’. The swimming club it’s named after was founded 90 years ago so that Bondi’s lifeguards could train year-round, and there’s nothing more exhilarating than being smacked in the face by salty surf while powering across its wind-rippled infinity pool. Don’t miss the sauna, included in your ticket price.

At the foot of Skye’s brooding Cuillin mountains, the river fizzes into a string of crystal-clear ponds. Clamber down from the trail onto broad, flat rocks so you can shed your gear and dive into the limpid water of the first pool. It’s freezing so bring a wetsuit outside of summer. Emboldened by that icy adrenaline? Dive down to swim under the submerged stone arch that connects two of the pools. They’re an easy half-hour hike along gently ascending hillside from the nearest car park (Glumagan Na Sithichean).

Shangri-La Hotel at the Shard, London Swimming above London’s helicopters — in the Shard’s 52ndstorey ‘Skypool’ — is a once-ina-lifetime encounter. It’s also a once-in-a-lifetime spend for a swim, as the pool is open only to hotel guests. Note to fitness swimmers: it’s diddy, at just 11m long. Note to parents: kids are only allowed between 9am and 11am and 3pm and 5pm. Note to daydreamers: there are sofas and free coffee, so make a morning of it.

HOTEL-POOL SWIM

Four Seasons Serengeti A dust-dry plain sprouting baobab trees, clouds scudding across a burnt yellow sky, and herds of elephants, buffaloes and zebras at feeding time. A baby elephant clambers into the water to cool off just metres from the lip of the infinity pool where you’re doing the same. From sunrise to sunset, this glimmering water gives you a front-row seat for the Tanzanian watering hole’s daily dramas (keep your eyes peeled for trotting warthogs), as well as miles of empty savannah ahead. You’ll see the most diverse wildlife during the dry season (July-October).

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BEST SWIMS

SECRET SPLASH

Wadi Shab, Oman Look up: youngsters are diving off the cliffs, screeching into the soup-warm water. Their splashes are muffled by the slender Wadi Shab ravine, a deep valley of emerald-green pools edged by sandstone and palm trees. But you’ve already had your adrenaline fix scrambling over sandstone boulders

for half an hour to get here (after a 2.5-hour drive from Muscat), so skip the jump and drift lazily into the pool. Swim through the shaded depths until you find the narrow arch at the end of the ravine. Here, the Wadi reveals its secret: a hidden cave pool, framed by a narrow waterfall, like a sultan’s secret bath house.

©Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

SKY-HIGH SWIM

Marina Bay Sands, Singapore Singapore’s streets is the ultimate swimmer’s selfie. A 6am swim before the crowds arrive, with dawn breaking behind the sharp-shouldered towers of the financial district, is worth the price of the stay alone.

SECRET SPLASH

Elbow Beach, Bermuda Swimming here is like gliding across a mag cover. Stroll east from the resortowned private stretch of Elbow beach to the public bit — a glorious swathe of sand known only by locals. Its pinktinged sand gives the sea an extraluminous aquamarine hue.

3 PERFECT POOLS IN THE UAE

ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT, DUBAI Here, it's as easy as opening the door of your over water villa and dipping straight into the tranquil swimming lagoons that weave their way through this Thai-inspired resort on Palm Jumeirah.

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THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI Back with a fresh new look and feel, this luxury hotel's inifnity pool, at Nation Riviera Beach Club, draws design lovers with its elegant mix of colour and pattern. Chill while overlooking the private beach.

ADDRESS SKY VIEW, DUBAI Take the plunge and soak up the panoramic city views at the hotel's sparkling infinity pool. Perched high up on the Sky Deck, this elevated oasis in Downtown Dubai is best enjoyed with a drink in hand at the pool bar.

Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort

BEST SWIMS

POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE

Grace Hotel, Santorini

Santorini splash you’ve dreamt of — all smooth white edges meeting endless Mediterranean shimmer and honeymooners chain-ordering bubbly. Plan a walk for later (the bell-shaped Skaros Rock is in view, as is the coastal trail to that postcard town Oia), but for now, accept that the Grace’s pool scene is all about soaking up rays, grazing on sea bass carpaccio in the shaded nooks behind it, and people-watching from behind your shades. Rise early to nab the loungers to the far right of the pool as you face it: they’re the evening suntraps. worldtravellermagazine.com 31

3 CITY SWIMS

THERMAE BATH SPA, BATH You can’t swim in the ancient Roman baths here, but you can idle in the mineral-rich waters at this multilevel spa. Paddle through pools up to a heated open-air pool surrounded by spires and Regency rooftops.

BADESCHIFF, BERLIN Urban beaches pop up in summer from Paris to London, but Berlin’s is the coolest, a full-on neon-blue pool immersed in the Spree river. Go for mingling, beats and bars on its wooden deck.

PISCINE MOLITOR, PARIS The grande-dame Art Deco pool is a photographer’s dream (and filmmaker’s: it had a cameo in the film Life of Pi) with its crisp balconies and doorways. To use it, you’ll need a key to the Hotel Molitor Paris.

SECRET SPLASH

Angle Tarn, Lake District, England It’s nippy all right, but after a sweaty slog up from the valley below, nippy is precisely what you’ll be wanting. Dive in, surrendering to its icy embrace (a swimming cap will help), as your exhilarated whoops echo around the amphitheatre of lonely crags towering above. For swimmers, the Lake District is an all-you-can-eat buffet of lakes and meres, river pools and tarns, but if anywhere up here puts the ‘wild’ into ‘wild swimming’, it’s this mountain pool, marooned halfway up England’s highest summit,

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Scafell Pike. Distance swimmers need not apply—it’s only 200m from shore to shore. But lazybones should take their Speedos elsewhere: it’s dizzyingly remote, reached only after a two-hour ascent from Seathwaite, Wasdale Head or the Langdale Valley. Wild paddlers should budget for longer: all routes up (on excellent, waymarked paths) follow stunning mountain streams that twinkle and tease at every turn. Wild camping is the way to do it, if you can — a flat, grassy shelf on its northern shore is crying out for a tent and stove.

Thermae Bath Spa

BEST SWIMS

© Palais Namaskar, Marrakech

HOTEL-POOL HEAVEN

SECRET SPLASH

BUCKET LIST

Palais Namaskar, Marrakech

Paxos, Greece

The Blue Lagoon, Iceland

Paxos has dreamy swims by the dozen, but the beach you want is Lakkos, a cliff-hugged splodge of white pebbles in the Ionian island’s northeast. Swim laps around the curl of the bay, or float over fish-silvered seaweed and spiny black urchins (mind your feet). Go in May, when the sea is warming up and you get the beach to yourself. Steps back up lead to a steep path best tackled barefoot — you’ll slide out of your flip-flops.

Waste products from power stations don’t usually look this ethereally beautiful. But this is Iceland — so this man-made ‘lagoon’ is geothermal, the water luminously blue (it’s the silicates, since you asked), and sociable soaks in it are part of the culture. Travel snobs will tell you that real Icelanders are more likely to go to smaller, local pools (which is true), but none of those municipal baths offers the same dramatic black crags or haunting mistscape.

Atlas Mountains beyond, the pool is so serene it seems a shame to disturb it. Despite its vast proportions (long enough for lengths, but with shallow steps for kids, too), it is heated, so go in February/March when it’s 26°C by lunchtime, but the peaks are still snow-capped. Most guests use their private villa pools, leaving this one perpetually peaceful.

POSTER-PERFECT PLUNGE

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

Koh Hong, Thailand

Everyone should take a boat trip in southern Thailand. Nowhere else in the world will you experience a more VIP-feeling voyage for so little cash (five hours’ gliding about costs from just $15). On your elegant longtail boat (speedboats are faster, but less romantic), strike a supermodel pose as you crane your neck to marvel at the mossy outcrops of the islands in the emerald waters off Krabi. Everyone does the Phi Phi islands, so head instead for the Hongs — Koh Hong National Park is the wild James Bond seduction fantasy you’ve always pictured.

Book the right boat and its skipper will take you for a swim in the secret lagoon encircled by rock face at the island’s centre, before depositing you on fine, gold sand, under imposing, vine-tangled cliffs. The beach should be quiet, but up your chances by going in the shoulder season (late November or May).

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XXXXXXXXXXXXX A daisy field in Svaneti, Georgia, with a view towards Ushba

Postcards Stories from journeys far and wide

GEORGIA p36 BRAZIL p42 VENICE p48

worldtravellermagazine.com 35

CALIFORNIA

Soaking up the sun and scenery at Georgia Glamping

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GEORGIA

Beyond Tbilisi lies a paradise of hiking,homestays and upmarket camping in Georgia. Yvonne Gorden goes exploring‌

worldtravellermagazine.com 37

t

he clock on the wall reads 5.30pm. Irina sits chatting at the large round table as her young grandchildren, Giorgi and Mariami, play beside her. Outside, chickens and pigs root around in the grass. Behind the house is forest and a dramatic mountain backdrop, the green fields and trees fading away to grey, rocky summits lined with snow and ice.

It’s a peaceful scene in Gona, in the Racha region of western Georgia, 5,500ft above sea level in the Caucasus Mountains. This was once a thriving village, but the remaining scattered houses are mostly deserted after the molybdenum mines closed in the 1950s; butterflies and wild flowers have claimed the gateways of abandoned properties. Irina and her family are the only fulltime residents, and even they only spend eight months of the year here, as the road is impassable from November to March due to snow. A few other families come for a week or two of holidays.

We’re here, just a few miles from the Russian border, to experience Georgia’s less familiar areas, those untouched by tourism. We had to get permits to hike in the area and a local driver to bring us here in a 4x4, up a bumpy potholed road. The Racha highland region promises endless 38 worldtravellermagazine.com

hiking trails, pristine mountains and glaciers, amazing food and a slowtravel experience away from betterknown areas such as Tbilisi and Svaneti. Even most of the Georgians I meet elsewhere haven’t been here.

When we visit Irina and her family — her husband, Gia, their son David and his wife, Maka — they give us, a group of four slightly dishevelled hikers, a warm welcome. “They’re offering us cheese bread,” says Zviad, our guide, who is translating.

Mariami’s crayons are cleared away and a plate of khachapuri appears on the table. Next, a tomato and cucumber salad. Then fruit.

Soon the table fills with meat, cheese, wild onions and sour cream.

Gia fills glasses and proposes the first of many toasts — to thank us for coming here. It’s typical Georgian hospitality, where guests are seen as a “gift from God”. The mines may be closed, but there are signs that the fledgling tourist industry will bring more people to the area. Irina proudly shows us a visitors’ book.

Everyone is provided with just such a feast and not charged a penny.

Earlier in the day, we’d hiked to the nearby Kirtisho glacier through woods of pine, chestnut, beech and rich green ferns, and along a forestry trail filled with wild roses, daisies and butterflies. The distant mountain peaks looked grey and moody, with

pockets of snow and ice between rocky ridges. Meltwater rushed from a cave under the glacier to the river below.

That evening, at Sergo’s Guest House, in the village of Ghebi, we gather at a communal dining table for a feast of chicken, potatoes and bread. Fellow guests from Belarus join our enthusiastic toasts, even though they don’t understand them.

After dinner, we watch Sergo’s aunt making Racha cheese. There are four shared rooms — Sergo is adding more accommodation and a dining room to meet growing demand. After dinner, his builders, Giorgi and Zuriko, play dominoes under the stars as the haze of the Milky Way stretches over the silent mountains in the distance.

In the next few years, the Transcaucasian Trail, a long-distance hiking route being developed in the Caucasus, will connect to the region, linking Svaneti to Ghebi and bringing more hikers to the area. Indeed, the walking is the highlight of our days.

From the resort town of Shovi, a fourmile, 3½-hour (each way) trek takes us up to the Buba glacier. The trail starts steep and muddy, through pine and beech forest. After a couple of hours, it opens up to subalpine meadows, with the long grass full of pink and white daisies, buttercups and butterflies.

At the top of the meadow, at 8,000ft, we take in the scene — 360-degree views of jagged mountaintops.

Credit: Yvonne Gorden / The Sunday Times / News Licensing

GEORGIA

Clockwise from top left: A deluxe tent at Georgia Glamping; wildflowers bloom in the mountains; hikers explore the Caucasus Mountains; cheese bread topped with egg; horses pause to drink from a mountain lake

worldtravellermagazine.com 39

GEORGIA Activities on the lake aside Georgia Glamping

We fill our water bottles with cool water from a stream and watch as puffy clouds slowly push shadows over the green hills.

At the country’s first glamping site, Glamping Georgia, in Ambrolauri, six space-age-looking round white tent pods are set on a hill, overlooking a valley and slopes of dense pine forest. Inside the air-conditioned tents, there’s a bathroom and a kitchenette; outside, a private deck with wicker rocking chairs. Linden, oak and apple trees surround the tents. The clean, fresh air is rich with birdsong and insects zip back and forth. The only other sound is the Krikhula River below. It’s the perfect place to disconnect. A canopy of stars opens up overhead and Giorgi, the owner, drops by to give us a bottle of his homemade grape.

We spend the final days of our trip in central Georgia, at Borjomi, a summer retreat for the Romanovs, famous for its mineral waters and sulphur baths. Covering 210,000 acres, the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park has one of the largest areas of pristine virgin forest in Europe, and many flora and fauna habitats.

There are 12 marked trails for hiking, riding and snowshoeing, as well as tourist shelters and camping areas.

We hike the Nikoloz Romanov Trail from Likani to Lomis mountain, where a river valley leads up through forest to alpine meadows of tall grasses and wild flowers. We pass only a handful of other hikers. I know that the reward at 7,200ft will be the views. What I don’t expect to find at the top is free-roaming horses with glossy brown coats, a tiny decorative church and carpets of wild blooms.

This is what we came for — unspoilt nature and slow travel. It’s a few hours’ hike back down, but all I want to do is lie down amid the flowers, close my eyes and just breathe.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com 40 worldtravellermagazine.com

‘

THE CLEAN, FRESH AIR IS RICH WITH BIRDSONG AND INSECTS ZIP BACK AND FORTH. THE ONLY OTHER SOUND IS THE KRIKHULA RIVER BELOW

’

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INDONESIA This image: A bowl of Moqueca, a traditional fish stew Opposite: A woman celebrates during carnival time This page: The pool at Amanpuri

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BRAZIL

Street parties, sugar plantations, white sands and coral-snorkelling: if you want the Caribbean of old, you need Bahia, in Brazil, says Alex Robinson

worldtravellermagazine.com 43

entle bays where turtles swim in turquoise seas.

Dancing feet on cobbled streets... The images filled my thoughts. Carnival drums and carved saints came to mind. Crimson sunsets and freshly cracked coconuts brimming over with juice.

If I’d rung up a travel agent and uttered those words I know where they’d have recommended: the Caribbean for two weeks.

But I knew precisely where my tropical daydreams could be brought to life — Brazil.

For a while in the Noughties, I lived in Brazil’s biggest city, São Paulo. It was friends there — friends who I keep to this day — who’d opened my eyes to the allure of the northeastern state, Bahia. ‘You have to see it,’ I remember them swooning. ‘It’s just like Jamaica or Barbados, but better.’

Of course I went — and not just the once.

In Bahia, Africa was replanted in South America — under coconut palms and in sugarcane plantations cut from parrotfilled forests. Transported slaves were inevitably part of the story — and they held on fiercely to what traditions they could.

The legacy for arrivals today? Spicy food, magical saints, street parties and irresistible music. I’ve holidayed in the Caribbean, and Bahia makes me think of what those islands might have been before the cruise ships and high-rise hotels arrived.

Its state capital, Salvador — wow!

Never mind Havana, this is the liveliest, most sultry colonial city in the Americas.

The food’s unforgettable, the nightlife pulsating, and the white-sand beaches just a half-hour ferry-ride away on Itaparica island. It’s so good that, basically, I’ve never been able to tear myself away.

So that’s where I’d be heading. But those friends again... Ringing me recently, they raved about Boipeba, a reef-fringed island south of Salvador, shrouded with forest, seemingly with more wild horses than people. ‘It puts Itaparica in the shade,’ they said. It stuck in my mind as I finalised my plans. Would Boipeba be the one to seduce me from Salvador’s embrace?

Watching the sun sinking golden over

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Salvador from the balcony of my hotel room on my first breeze-cooled afternoon, I was already falling back under its spell. The houses of the Pelourinho, the old colonial centre, rolled down a hill below me in tumbledown terracotta and stippled steeples to a Tiffany-blue sea. Itaparica island floated on the horizon. A hummingbird flitted over a bougainvillea tree next to my window and music wafted up from the streets. As the day was ending in buttery yellow light, Salvador was waking up. It was Saturday night and soon it would be dark — time to let the sensuous, spontaneous city carry me away.

Outside the hotel, Terreiro de Jesus Square was a swirl of movement. Afro-Brazilian women in huge bustle skirts and bright headscarves served steaming falafel-like acarajé snacks at lace-draped stalls. The air was sweet with the scent of chilli and shrimp, and danced with the melodious chatter of Brazilian Portuguese. I heard the rat-a-tat of a repinique samba drum echoing from one of the brightly painted houses set around the square, and in the distance, the Voodoo Chile wah-wah twang of a berimbau — the single-string guitar with a gourd for a sound board. I followed the notes along a narrow cobbled street into the thronging heart of the Pelourinho.

Music was everywhere: a normal Salvador weekend entle bays where feels like Trinidad in carnival time. Brazilian reggae oozed from streetside bars, samba skipped across little praças. And somewhere I could hear that most Salvadorean of sounds — an afoxê orchestra warming up. Paul Simon called afoxê the ‘rhythm of the saints’ — a pounding, visceral beat that hits you below the waistline.

It’s played by bands of drummers who parade through the streets with military precision and tribal swing. They energise the Pelourinho at weekends, calling the crowds with bass drums and clattering timbales, and pulling revellers behind them like Pied Pipers with percussion.

First, a drink or two. At my favourite Salvador bar, Uauá, above a narrow street leading into the Pelourinho, I had a ringside seat. As my first Caipirinha arrived, an afoxê band came round the corner. By the second, I was jiggling in my seat, ready to dance. I could already hear the next wave coming.

BRAZIL

Clockwise from top left: Sunset falls on La Rivera beach; traditional drummers bring the beat to the street; a colourful hut between coconut palm trees on Boipeba Island; capoeira played on the beach

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The Old Town in Salvador

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BRAZIL

‘

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

SALVADOR — WOW! NEVER MIND HAVANA, THIS IS THE LIVELIEST, MOST SULTRY COLONIAL CITY IN THE AMERICAS

Banda Didá, an all-female percussion band led by a woman with a huge pink Afro burst into the street below me, playing right below my table. A local couple at the next table looked across and smiled.

‘Vamos, amigo!’ they said. I had no choice.

Salvador had taken me. So I joined them on the streets, to parade and dance behind Banda Didá, drink more Caipirinhas and finish the night goodness knows when.

Sunday morning woke me with church bells and more percussion.

I’d only had a few hours’ sleep, but I couldn’t resist Salvador’s drums.

Later, as I cooled in the hotel pool with an açai-berry smoothie, I could feel myself coming dangerously close to giving in to Salvador’s seductive pull — there were all those markets to revisit, piquant food to sample, more glittering churches, more drum parades...

‘Stay,’ sang Salvador. Boipeba, I reminded myself. I needed to get there before Salvador sucked me in. So I skipped the overland route south via sugarcane fields and chocolate plantations and splashed out on an air taxi.

The flight was spectacular — over the terracotta and high-rise sprawl of Salvador, the glittering Bay of All Saints, specked with white yachts and tiny beachfringed islands. Then rainforest: ribbons of brown river snaking through the green into swathes of spidery mangroves, white egrets floating above them like winddrifting petals. An eagle... The mangroves became beaches and beaches and beaches.

Then we dropped over a river-mouth harbour with a few wooden fishing boats, a tiny hamlet of cottages, a cocoa tree plantation, a gash of grass cut from the coconut palms... This was Boipeba.

I’d decided to stay in Boipeba village.

There were options further south that looked wilder, but I wanted a bit of local life. The island, friends had told me, is cut with trails running through the rainforest, sweeping along the beaches. Don’t just flop on the beach,

’

they said. Boipeba is a place to walk.

My hotel, Pousada Santa Clara, was a delight, shaded by tall branches and set in its own butterfly-filled tropical garden near the village beach. I allowed myself one afternoon to laze in the hammock outside my room, thumbing a paperback and watching as marmoset monkeys played in the trees, and little agoutis — like guinea pigs on stilts — rummaged underneath. In the evening I wandered along the beach into the village, a strip of sand lined with a few thatched bars, and watched the sun sink watermelon-red behind the palms.

The moqueca I ordered — a fish stew similar to Jamaican rundown, but with twice the flavour — came in a huge terracotta pot, simmering in coconut and dendê oil, garnished with coriander.

But the locals at the adjacent table — three young men with dreadlocks and tiny Speedos and a woman in an equally tiny bikini — wouldn’t let me eat alone. ‘This is Bahia,’ they laughed. And I was pulled over to join them at their table. Glasses clinked in introduction — ‘Pedro, Chico, João e Andressa.’

‘Meet us on the beach tomorrow,’ they said after dinner. ‘We’ll play capoeira, then show you the way to Moreré. It’s the most beautiful beach on the island.’ Like Salvador, Boipeba had taken hold of me.

The next day I woke early, when the sun was still twinkling low over the sea, its first rays as gentle as the lapping water on Boipeba village’s white beach.

Capoeira is tough — a whirligig martialart dance with intricate steps. I’d never even managed the most basic of them.

But then my new friends appeared, all smiles and high-fives, and the capoeira began — João with the berimbau, me awkwardly bashing out rhythms on a hand drum. And Andressa and Chico began to dance — spinning and swirling at effortless speed. I was dragged in. And with all the rhythm and positive energy of the morning I somehow managed a

capoeira ginga — the simplest three-way step that lies behind all capoeira moves.

It was the first time I’d mastered it, and I sat down, sweaty, panting and grinning with boyish pleasure at my achievement.

After a cool beach-bar passionfruit juice we set off to Moreré, my toes sinking into the sand as I walked, sending ghost crabs scurrying into their burrows.

The path left the sand and cut up into rainforest. An iridescent blue morpho butterfly as big as a handkerchief floated along before us like a spirit guide. Birds chirruped welcomes overhead and a cicada soundwave washed through the trees, hissing like water on a shingly shore. We passed beach after beach, all gorgeous enough to fill a whole day.

There was palm-shaded Tassimirim, empty but for a couple of feral horses. (‘You can hire a horse for a beach ride,’ Andressa told me.) Then the long, broad crescent of white-pepper-fine sand at Cueira — which took half an hour to walk across. (‘This is where we come to body-surf,’ said João.) And then Moreré.

Moreré is that beach everyone dreams of — squeaky white sand, turquoise sea, towering coconut palms and a single bamboo kiosk, painted in bright colours, with wooden tables in the sand under a thatch roof. The Caribbean had nothing on this.

We ordered fresh fish straight from the reef and a chilled green coconut. The bartender — like a young Grace Jones — opened it with two swift hacks of a machete. Later we snorkelled over the turtle-filled reef and lazed in tidal pools as big as tennis courts. It was bliss.

And I had a week ahead of me to snorkel, to body-surf, to horse-ride and to wander the forest trails.

Salvador had seduced me. But on Boipeba I had fallen in love.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellermagazine.com 47

long weekend the

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Venice

A labyrinth of busy squares, colourful canals and marble palazzos, this floating city floods the imagination with its classical beauty

This page: A gondola gliding its way through the city Opposite, from top: Sweeping views of the Dorsoduro district, Al Ponte Antico Hotel

THE LONG WEEKEND

Venice welcomes you with an enchanting serenade, as gondoliers glide their way through the intricate web of the city's many waterways, carrying loved-up couples from all over the world. The beating heart of the city is the Grand Canal, a reflection of architectural glories with exquisite palazzos and gothic museums lining its banks. On land, narrow backstreets twist past and over bridges to unveil a treasure trove of art and culture.

The city is divided into six districts (the sestieri), each with its own charm and character. One way or another, you're bound to wind up at San Marco. At the core of the city, it is where iconic sights, such as St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace can be found. Across the Rialto Bridge is San Polo with its lively bar scene, while the artisans' neighbourhood of Dorsoduro is brimming with prestigious art galleries. The largest of the sestieri, Castello is where you can watch elderly Venetian women gossip between windows and children playing ball in the piazzas. Lose yourself in the winding alleyways and discover why visitors flock to this fairytale-like city.

Literary dream

BLISSFUL SLUMBER Doze off to the lullabies of the city

The artsy one: Officially declared a National Monument on account of its beauty, Ca Sagredo Hotel is an art-lovers dream-stay. Make your way up the magnificent 18th century Scalone dei Giganti staircase that’s entirely surrounded by frescoes, and wander through hallways adorned with original masterpieces

by Venetian painters including Niccolò Bambini and Giambattista Tiepolo.

The grand one: It's easy to understand why the

Clooney’s chose to spend their wedding night at this sumptuous 16th century palazzo. Aman Venice welcomes you with its own brand of luxury – think trompe-l’oeil grandiose staircase, Murano glass chandeliers, Rubelli silk wall coverings and Rococo works of art, to name a few.

The cosy one: Tucked away in the charming Dorsoduro district, Ca’ Maria Adele draws style-conscious travellers with its unique take on Venetian décor.

The boutique hotel boasts

These hidden gems will result in a serious case of bibliophilia

five concept rooms, each with its own design and story. Book the Sala Noire and relish in its delicious decadence while the Sala del Doge will make you feel like a duke with its swathes of scarlet boldness.

The bella vista one: For gorgeous city views, the terrace at Al Ponte Antico is a fantastic place to have a drink while gazing at the Grand Canal and the Rialto.

Its central location also means that some of the best sights in Venice are within walking distance.

THE BOOKSTORE: LIBRERIA ACQUA ALTA Here, books fill old gondolas, canoes, bathtubs and barrels.

Encyclopaedias line the walls to make an intriguing staircase and fluffy cats inhabit every corner as if they rule the place. This chaotic yet charming book shop is the city’s best-kept secret and a dream come true for bargain hunters due to its second-hand literary treasures.

THE LIBRARY: BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALE MARCIANA Considered one of the oldest and most stunning libraries in Italy, this architectural beauty is home to the largest classical texts collections in the world, including manuscripts, incunabula, and works printed between 1500 and 1600. worldtravellermagazine.com 49

THE LONG WEEKEND

Get crafty

From top to bottom: A bowl of squid ink pasta, decorative Venetian masks, St Mark's Campanile

Take a piece of the city back home Venetian masks A tradition that dates back thousands of years, maskmaking is an integral part of the city’s culture. Avoid paying over the odds at touristy souvenir shops and opt for making one yourself at Ca’Macana – the family owned store is known for creating the masks that appeared in the film Eyes Wide Shut. camacana.com Murano glass Watching a Murano glass sculpture come to life is as fascinating as its translucent beauty, and the island of Murano is the only place on the planet that produces these coveted pieces of art. Get an insider

ALL IN GOOD TASTE Discover the lagoon city's hidden food haunts The Venetian version of tapas, Cicchetti is a must-try while in Venice.

These traditional bites, served on small plates designed to share, will have your taste buds shouting “mamma mia!” Enjoy it the local way at Cantina Do Mori, but don’t expect

look at different glass techniques thanks to the dedicated tours on offer at Mazzega Glass Factory.

Burano lace It’s said that King Louis XIV of France wore an original Burano lace collar on the day of his coronation.

Suffice to say, it's an artwork in its own right. But you don’t need to go all the way to Burano Island to get these lovely crafts, as the famous Il Merletto shop in Venice displays a wide selection of original work.

to be seated; you’ll have to eat it like the locals do – standing up. For lunch, head to Ristorante Upupa and be sure to order their famous Spaghetti al Nero di Seppia. The distinctive pasta dish will win you over with its delicious flavour and

charcoal black colour (courtesy of the squid ink). End the evening at one of the oldest cafés in Europe, Caffè Florian (caffeflorian.com). Having opened its doors in 1720, it exudes old-world charm and boasts a stunning outdoor terrace on St Mark's Square.

UP AND AWAY To get a thorough understanding of how beautiful this city is, you need to get on top of it. Not only does the St Mark's Campanile offer a breathtaking view of the Venetian Lagoon, it’s also home to one of the largest bells in the city, la Marangona. Just a short boat-ride away, San Giorgio Maggiore is a defining point on the Venice skyline, and its unrivalled panoramic views of the city makes it unlike any other. Hidden on a quiet street in the bustling tourist centre of St. Mark’s Square, Scala Contarini del Bovolo is instantly recognisable due to its snail's shell-like spiral staircase. Ascend the tower's twisting steps, pausing to look at the views revealed at every twist and turn. Once you reach the top, you’ll be awed by the picturesque view. worldtravellermagazine.com 51

THE LONG WEEKEND

UNDER A BRIDGE Each with its own story, Venetian bridges unveil the city's deep-seated history

From top: Bridge of Sighs; St. Mark's Square

Carlo Bettuolo, destination wedding photographer, shares her his top tips for exploring the city

Get lost in Castello, the oldest district in the city, and admire the architectural details of buildings steeped in more than eight centuries of history. For the perfect Instagram shot, head to San Moisè Bridge – its colourful background will ensure your feed pops. For anyone visiting for the first time, I always recommend the guided tour of Teatro la Fenice, which is one of the most beautiful opera houses in the world.

The city is brimming over with first-class dining venues but my absolute favourite is Algiubagió. Be seated at a table on the wooden platform overlooking the lagoon and tuck into delicious Venetian staples and fresh seafood dishes. The restaurant's stunning views will stay with you long after you leave.

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BRICK IN THE WALL From exquisite marble palaces to hidden gems on the Grand Canal, there are numerous architectural marvels to discover.

St Mark's Basilica (basilicasanmarco.it) is hard to miss with its luminous gold mosaics and profusion of grand domes. Dating back to the 11th century, the Venetian cathedral is a leading example of Byzantine architecture.

A short walk away is Doge's Palace (palazzoducale. visitmuve.it), a gothic masterpiece that is the formerly the seat of Venetian government.

Its interior is equally stunning with highlights

including the Sala del Maggior Consiglio (the grand council hall) and Sansovino’s golden stairway, Scala d’Oro. If you tire of pounding the pavements, why not give in to the classic tourist bucket-list

experience of a gondola tour along the canals. Splash out on a private guide who can steer you past all the top sites and into the smaller, more tranquil canals that offer a glimpse of everyday city life.

Words: Habiba Azab

ask a local

Legend has it that lovers who kiss on a gondola at sunset under the Ponte dei Sospiri will be granted eternal love and happiness. Designed by Italian architect Antonio Contino, the bridge connects the Doge's Palace to the city’s historic prisons. It’s said that prisoners, on their way to incarnation, got to take one last peek at the city through the bridge’s tiny gaps. Overcome with its beauty, it prompted them to sigh, hence its moniker: the Bridge of Sighs.

One of the last remaining Venetian bridges without guardrails, Ponte Chiodo in the Cannaregio neighbourhood is the place to get your thrills of the day. If you’re feeling courageous, you can capture that coveted Instagram shot of your legs dangling over the edge.

One of only four bridges to span the Grand Canal, Ponte dell'Accademia charms with its peaceful ambience and unique views of the city. Something of an undiscovered gem, the bridge packs less crowds than the city’s main attraction, the Rialto Bridge, making it your ideal sunset destination.

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WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI

THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI...

The suite life

Be immersed in the sights and sounds of the city by staying at these luxury hotels at the heart of the UAE capital

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Fairmont Bab Al Bahr Offering a picture-perfect vista of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, this five-star beachfront hotel calls design buffs with its architecturally stunning glass exterior that's bathed in blue light at night. Elegantly decorated rooms and suites, soaking tubs with a view and an inviting lap pool characterise this enduringly popular property, situated at the mainland gateway. Gourmands should head to the newly-opened Marco's New York Italian by Marco Pierre White for a meal to remember.

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The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Luxury permeates every aspect of this hospitality stalwart located on Abu Dhabi Corniche. Prepare to be swept away by the signature butler service, grand dual staircase (just like the ones you see in the movies) and plush suites. For the ultimate extravagance, book a stay at the world’s highest suspended presidential suite. Or for a simple taste of the elevated lifestyle, you can enjoy a thrilling dinner 255 metres high at the exclusive Helipad Sunset Suppers, which take place once a month.

To find out more, visit visitabudhabi.ae

Photo: Emirates Palace

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Emirates Palace From its gilded domes to its 24-karat gold-flaked cappuccinos, it comes as no surprise that this exclusive hotel counts royalty among its regular guests. A grand example of Arabian hospitality, this iconic hotel is a landmark in its own right. It boasts over 200 spacious rooms decorated with regal furnishings, a private beach, an auditorium that regularly plays host to high-brow concerts and events, and an impressive line-up of restaurants, including Martabaan by Hemant Oberoi.

Island Lore Mysterious coconuts, voodoo dolls and otherworldly beaches, Sophia Dyer is spellbound by the Seychelles

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WEEKENDS

L

egend has it that a traveller who eats from the breadfruit tree while in the Seychelles is fated to return to its sandy shores. A melting pot of people and cultures, it only seems right that the Creole islands are brimming with local legends, myths and folklore. A self-confessed purveyor of all things mystic, it was the islands ‘more than meets the eye’ appeal that lured me, far more than just its postcard scenes.

First on my numinous pursuit was unearthing the mysterious coco de mer, a distinct palm endemic to just two of the 115 Seychellean islands.

Like something from prehistoric fiction, the suggestively curvaceous coconuts looked as if they belonged in the imagination of a weary sailor who had been out at sea for a number of weeks before finally reaching dry land. Yet here they were growing on huge palms so tall they seemingly touched the grey clouds, which were drooping low, heavy with rain.

“People used to think the coco de mer trees grew in a forest at the bottom of the ocean, before the coconuts fell upwards and washed up on the beaches around the Indian Ocean,” Leroy, my tour guide explained with a wry smile. In the 1600s the huge shells that washed up on shores were traded around the Arabian Peninsula for vast sums of money. Those who found the beached husks in the Maldives however, were ordered to hand them over to the king or face the death penalty. It wasn’t until British General Charles Gordon, discovered the uninhabited Seychelles isles in 1881 that the fate of the plant was changed forever.

Taking one look at the mysteriously shaped nut, Gordon declared that he had found the original forbidden fruit. Drawing the only plausible conclusion, of course – that he had stumbled upon the Garden of Eden.

Gordon’s revelation pleased the local community and saw the coco de mer become a protected species, putting an end to the trading of the fruit and introducing strict laws. Fast forward to today and it’s the reason why I came to be stood in Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve on Praslin island.

Opposite page: Constance Lemuria beach This page: An aerial view of Constance Lemuria, Praslin

One of the smallest UNESCO sites in the world, it is fiercely guarded by beefy security guards who patrol the grounds to ensure there is no untoward nut-nabbing, and quite understandably too as they can fetch up to $500. (Even if you could sneak past the guards, I wouldn’t recommend bagging one, as you need an export license to get these hefty nuts out of the country. Not to mention, with the nuts weighing up to 30kg, you’ll almost certainly be over on your baggage allowance.)

Hawk-eyed guards aside, walking among these ancient trees felt truly special. Perhaps it had more to do with my love of a good story than the enigmatic palms themselves, but I was almost certain I could feel a subtle magic in the air here. Was Gordon onto something after all?

Breaking the spell, I landed back in the site's gift shop to pricey nuts and the obligatory tourist tat.

Since Gordon’s discovery, the African archipelagos have been penned as ‘paradise on Earth’ and, like its Indian Ocean counterparts, over the years it has become synonymous with honeymooners. The Seychelles, fitting the seemingly mandatory white sand beach bill, was the postnuptial destination of choice of George and Amal Clooney and the UK’s Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. While I

was on a solo pursuit, if the beaches were good enough for the A-list, they were surely good enough for me.

Known for being one of the nicest stretches of sand in the Seychelles, Anse Georgette was gothically moody. The dark green foliage surrounding the cove swayed rhythmically in the breeze as the ocean crashed into the rocks with a passionate force. Adding a hint of mystery, an ethereal mist floated down from the hills, evaporating as soon as it touched the water.

Somewhat naïve to the powers of the ocean, I ran straight in as the clouds broke above me, at last relenting their pent-up rain with great catharsis. After a few exhales, the powerful waves threw me back onto the shore, to which I abided willingly.

Settling down onto the sand, the rain began to ease and eventually the sun peaked through the clouds in otherworldly defiance. But what was extra special about this beach was that, bar myself and a few other travellers huddled under the trees, it was completely empty. This was probably due to the fact that getting here can be an exercise (involving a boat and hike). That is unless, like me, you are staying at Constance Lemuria, which boasts the beach as part of its grounds. Having just 105 rooms and employing 402 staff worldtravellermagazine.com 57

Lemuria, earns the right to brand itself as an exclusive luxury resort.

Not only providing unparalleled levels of service (thanks to the staff to guest ratio), the resort is also home to nesting hawksbill turtles and a host of five-star dining experiences.

Pulling up to the hotel’s entrance, most of the passengers in my car were charmed by the pretty view of Lemuria’s 18-hole golf course – its fairways sparkling with dew. But to my golf-ignorant self, there was something far more interesting to the right. Just before the gates of the hotel, standing in solitude, was a solemn grey-hued bungalow.

Its cracked walls and missing windows giving it an eerie feel, as if it was abandoned either halfway through a remodel or demolition.

While pondering the reason it stood neglected, I met the eye of a disembodied dolls head pierced by a stick. One of its eyes was sharply open and seemingly glaring at mine, while the other seemed to droop shut in disdain. Before I could react, the voodoo-esque doll was out of sight, as we zoomed through the gates and were hurtled up the winding paths to reach the lobby.

Large pillar candles lined the path to the grand, mahogany doors, which remained firmly shut until the staff shuffled into position. With the loud striking of a gong, the heavy doors were swung open as the smiley team chorused in unison, “welcome to paradise”. And as twee as it may sound, there was no denying that the vista ahead was nothing short of archetypal utopia.

The indoor-outdoor lobby, surrounded by dense foliage, had kestrels flying overhead and peacocks roaming on nearby rocks. It overlooked the swimming pool, before the view seductively unfolded down to the white sand beach and ocean beyond.

“According to folklore, the island of Lemuria was where people and nature lived in perfect harmony before it sank to the bottom of the Indian Ocean. In keeping with the legend, we create a balance between nature and humans at the resort,” the friendly host, 58 worldtravellermagazine.com

‘

THE DARK GREEN FOLIAGE SURROUNDING THE COVE SWAYED RHYMICALLY IN THE BREEZE

’

Alyona, explained as she showed me to my room. Attesting this, Constance Lemuria was the first resort in the Seychelles to receive a Green Globe award and continues to be one of the leaders for environmental practice among the neighbouring resorts and the local community. A welcome sight for my ‘save the planet’ attuned eyes, the hotel's green initiatives meant reusable glass bottles of water replaced their plastic equivalents in my suite. Helping myself to a thoughtfully placed, handcrafted dark chocolate, my stomach began to rumble.

Lemuria’s creole influenced restaurant, The Nest, produced creatively displayed yet hefty portioned and richly flavoursome dishes. The first course appeared to be an elegantly constructed melon salad. However, a few bites in and I was pleasantly surprised by the white fruit’s uncharacteristically moreish, carbohydrate-rich taste. It turned out that the incognito fruit was, in fact, breadfruit. Breadfruit trees (suitably named after the fruit’s starchy consistency) were brought to the Seychelles along with a host of goods and folklore from around the globe by the archipelago’s first settlers. And much like my appetite for the lore, I couldn't help but dig into a second serving of the fruit.

Another fine moment for my taste buds came a couple of days later while sunning myself on a beach in Mahé.

With an expert whack of a knife, the coconut stall man handed me a green nut from which the nectar was now mine to slurp. Sipping away merrily, I watched local children play football to a soundtrack of hip-hop classics

being pumped out from a Bluetooth speaker. A stark contrast from the quiet beaches of Praslin, Mahé’s beaches were, much to my enjoyment, abuzz with life. Quite rightly so, all the beaches in the Seychelles are open to the public, so here on the main island it is commonplace to be milling among the locals even inside the confines of your five-star resort.

This resort, named Ephelia, another of Constance’s hotels, spans over 120-hectares of land and caters mainly to families (or couples who easily bore of one another) with a solid line up of activities. Opting for a spot of snorkelling one afternoon, I headed to the beach, passing the vibrant red hibiscus trees that lined the path in an orderly fashion. By this point, feeling suitably settled into the island spirit, I picked a fresh flower from the ground and placed it behind my ear.

“Do you know what that means?”, the watersports shack assistant asked me, pointing to the flower in my hair.

“Err…” I mustered while wracking my mind for hibiscus trivia.

“No,” I concluded.

“It means you’re open to meeting someone special,” he laughed. And while this was not on my atoll agenda, not one for abiding to convention, I decided to leave the flower in my hair as I waddled into the ocean, flippers on feet, snorkel in hand. As I swam beside the entire cast of Finding Nemo, apart from Nemo (aptly) the hibiscus flower floated into the ocean along with the last of the Seychelles folklore I had time to uncover.

When my five nights on the Creole isles drew to a close, I had gotten more than I bargained for, with an awakened lust for island living that made returning to the city seem near impossible. The Seychelles is not only profoundly beautiful, but vivaciously full of life and grit. And if you’re mystically minded, the island’s deeprooted legends are the gifts that keep on giving. Days later as I sit dreaming up ways to return to the Seychelles, I wonder if perhaps there’s something in that breadfruit legend after all.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com

WEEKENDS

Clockwise from left: A wild peacock; an aerial view of Constance Ephelia in MahĂŠ, children play on a Seychelles beach; the coco de mer nuts in Praslin

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WORLD TRAVELLER X RENAISSANCE DOWNTOWN HOTEL DUBAI

STAYCATION

Renaissance Downtown Hotel Dubai Situated along the Dubai Water Canal, this showstopper wows with its A-list style luxury THE ROOMS & SUITES From the floor-to-ceiling gold chains to the art installations lining the corridors, Art Deco vibes prevail here – a look that's reflected in all the hotel's rooms and suites. Relax in style in either the Vice Presidential Suite or the Presidential Suite, each offering their own set of luxuries including a complimentary breakfast in bed, butler service and club lounge access.

THE FOOD Boasting not one, but two, in-house celebrity chef-led restaurants, this is a foodie's dream destination. Morimoto Dubai puts you right in the middle of the action with a live teppanyaki counter that displays the Iron Chefs' trademark culinary style. BASTA! by David Myers serves up a little piece of Italy with each dish, while Bhar will spice up your palate with its delectable Arabian fare.

THE ACTIVITIES When the clock strikes five, Evenings at Renaissance kicks off, inviting guests to sip signature drinks over a programme of interesting events. If you're not in a social mood, indulge yourself to a relaxing massage while soaking up the panoramic views of the city at Six Senses Spa. With six different treatment suites, each dedicated to a different sense, you'll leave in a haze of peace and tranquillity.

To find out more, call +971 4 512 5554 or renaissancedowntowndubai.com 60 worldtravellermagazine.com

ISN’T IT JUST SUITE TO BE HERE AT RENDXB? Rediscover luxury in one of our indigenously designed suites while overlooking Dubai’s unique views.

For more information visit renaissancedowntowndubai.com or email rendxb.sales@renhotels.com

RENAISSANCE DOWNTOWN HOTEL, DUBAI Marasi Drive Business Bay Dubai PO Box 191984 United Arab Emirates. t: +971.4.512.5555

WORLD TRAVELLER X ADDRESS SKY VIEW

STAYCATION

Address Sky View This sleek new property places you at the heart of bustling Downtown Dubai THE ROOMS & SUITES With an exclusive address on Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard, this luxury hotel stands proud with its duo of glistening skyscrapers connected by a sky bridge. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer stunning views of the city skyline towards the Arabian Gulf. Book yourself into a Club Room Burj View for coveted Burj Khalifa vistas and a front row seat to The Dubai Fountain.

THE FOOD Tuck into an array of delicious platters that put a refreshing twist on international cuisine at The Restaurant.

Its cosy ambience, personalised service and warm dĂŠcor will make you feel right at home. Meanwhile, the resort's pool lounge, Deck TOO, offers the perfect excuse to nibble at an expertly curated menu of antipasti and aperitivo while admiring the marvellous cityscape.

THE ACTIVITIES The showstopper here is the picturesque rooftop infinity pool, which is sure to blow up your Instagram. Swim a lap, grab a refreshing drink from the pool bar and soak up the views. Better yet, stop by The Spa for a pampering session. Located on the 54th floor, choose from a range of soothing treatments and feel your tension ease away as Dubai's glittering skyline lulls you to a serene bliss.

To find out more, call +971 4 873 8888 or visit addresshotels.com 62 worldtravellermagazine.com

YOUR

stage among the stars

Address Sky View, a panor amic city viewpoint, presents

spectacular vistas of Dubai’s finest sights. Every luxury hotel room and suite, every enthralling dining experience, and every event space lifts you to heights inspired by the Sky Deck shimmering under the stars. Welcome to your stage in the sky.

Discover a marvellous new viewpoint with #ADHskyview BOOK NOW TOLL FREE (UAE) 800 ADDRESS ADDRESSHOTELS.COM

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WORLD TRAVELLER X THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI

STAYCATION

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Tailor-made luxury meets exquisite experiences at this palatial retreat THE ROOMS & SUITES Stay close to all the action as the Formula 1 World Championship roars its way back to the city this month. After an exhilarating day of Grand Prix action, retire to the comfort of your Superior Room, or spacious suite, and enjoy the royal treatment with around-the-clock butler service. Guests also receive access to Nation Riviera Beach Club and a complimentary breakfast at The Terrace.

THE FOOD Delve into a delicious spread of local delicacies while being suspended 255 metres up in the air on the highest active helipad in the Middle East.

Making a grand return this month (on 9 and 16 Nov), the Helipad Sunset Supper invites 20 lucky guests to dine amongst the clouds, enjoy live performances and take in some of the most sensational views the city has to offer.

THE ACTIVITIES Introducing a new look and feel, Nation Riviera Beach Club has refreshed its main pool with an exciting new design that highlights the hotel's scenic landscape. Perfect the art of relaxation and soak up the sun in your private cabana, do a few laps in the temperature-controlled swimming pool or enjoy a walk on the pristine private stretch of white sand.

To find out more, call +971 2 694 4444 or stregisabudhabi.com 64 worldtravellermagazine.com

Abu Dhabi’s Finest Urban Resort The St. Regis Abu Dhabi soars to new heights of splendor and service beyond expectation. Located at the vibrant heart of Abu Dhabi, you will be transferred through a luxurious underpass to a 200 metre stretch of pristine beach, overlooking the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf and the newly renovated Nation Riviera Pool.

Enjoy the exquisite service of a truly unique experience at the Nation Riviera Beach Club and the finest address in the city.

Š2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. All names, marks and logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL

STAYCATION

Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel English charm is the hallmark of this Palm Jumeirah hotel THE ROOMS & SUITES Here, every detail has been carefully thought out to perfect the quintessentially British style – from the checkerboard-tiled floors lining the lobby to the Floris amenities in all the guestrooms. If you're looking for a home away from home, consider a studio or an apartment where you'll drift off to the sound of the sea and wake up to the dreamy views of the Arabian Gulf.

THE FOOD Order it shaken, not stirred at Dukes bar, where expert mixologists fix you signature drinks from a tableside trolley.

Meanwhile, Great British Restaurant serves modern British fare that tastes as good as it looks. If you're in the mood for something spicy, Khyber's flavourpacked dishes stand out, with highlights including the tandoor-cooked baby lamb leg and green masala pomfret.

THE ACTIVITIES Swim a lap or sit back and enjoy a refreshing drink by the infinity pool that blends seamlessly with the city's glittering skyline. The Dukesy Kids' club will keep your little ones occupied while you sweat out your daily cardio at the fitness studio. Later, glam up at the hair and beauty salon for an evening out.

With many of the city's top attractions nearby, the City of Gold awaits discovery.

To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or royalhideaway.com 66 worldtravellermagazine.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA

Say “I do” Capturing the romance and tranquillity of the desert, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa will ensure your special day is picture-perfect

T

ucked away in Dubai’s majestic rolling dunes, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is an Arabian Nights fantasy plucked from your imagination and a coveted location for a destination wedding. Whether you're dreaming of an intimate ceremony or a lively celebration surrounded by family and friends, this palatial resort will turn your wedding dreams into reality. Here’s the pick of our favourite venues…

THE GREAT OUTDOORS Exchange vows amid the natural wonders of the desert at Sunset Point.

The alfresco venue offers a simple setting that showcases the stunning surroundings and can hold up to 240 of your nearest and dearest. You could also opt for the Masala Rooftop Lounge, which is ideal for star-lit ceremonies, with its panoramic view of the resort that's best enjoyed while sitting down to a sumptuous feast.

Meanwhile, couples who want to go all out with the invitations should book the Arena. True to its name, the venue sprawls over 20,000 square metres and can fit up to 6,000 guests.

AN INTIMATE AFFAIR Adorned with lush foliage, Al Shurouq

and the Garden Café offers total privacy with its Arabesque furnishings, elegant floral centerpieces and personalised details. Alternatively, contemporary elegance meets old-world charm at Le Dune, while Falcon Courtyard beckons hopeless romantics with its oriental appeal and secluded setting that accommodates a modest 30 guests.

A CULTURAL TWIST Fascinate your guests by holding your ceremony at the unique setting of Al Hadheerah Restaurant. With a traditional tanoura and belly

dancing performances, as well as a live Arabian band, you'll have everyone on their feet in minutes.

If you’re seeking something more private, Al Hadheerah Rooftop can accommodate up to 70 guests and offers a serene ambiance with its sweeping views of the Arabian desert.

From crafting colourful floral arrangements to creating a bespoke wedding cake and menu, the resort offers an array of services and packages to make your big day unforgettable.

Find out more at babalshams.com

Sunset Point

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RARE IS REAL Nestled among the rolling dunes of Dubai, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is a haven of rustic charm, luxurious Arabian hospitality, benchmark-setting facilities and a captivating desert environment.

This oasis of pure indulgence offers guests an array of sumptuous dining experiences from Italy to India and the Middle East, desert activities including falconry, camel riding and archery, rejuvenating therapies at the award-winning Satori Spa as well as facilities designed to ensure that every moment is one to be cherished for years to come. babalshams.com

/babalshamshotel

/babalshamshotel

/babalshamshotel

D E S E RT R E S O RT & S P A - D U B A I

WORLD TRAVELLER X LE MERIDIEN AL AQAH BEACH RESORT

STAYCATION

Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach Resort Family-friendly fun abounds at this action-packed reatreat THE ROOMS & SUITES Nestled between the Hajar Mountains and the glistening Indian Ocean, this coastal resort is all about family-fun with great deals on offer. Watch the sun set from your sea facing room with your little munchkins in tow (two children below 12 years old can stay for free). After a good night's sleep, start your day fresh and tuck into a delectable breakfast of champions (rates are inclusive of breakfast).

THE FOOD Embark on a culinary journey and relish the taste of different world cuisines at any of the hotel's eight restaurants and bars. East-meets-West signature recipes fill Views with aromas that are sure to make your mouth water. Alternatively, lap up the cool sea breeze as Gonu serves up seafood fresh from the ocean. Better yet, head southeast and delight in the Asian flavours of Thai Indian fare at Taste.

THE ACTIVITIES Unleash your wild side and step up to the Al Aqah Challenge, the first ever obstacle rope course on the East Coast.

Whether ziplining, climbing or abseiling, it's going be a tough one to crack so bring your A game. Meanwhile, beach lovers can simply lounge on the hotel's private stretch of sand or take a dive into the crystal waters of the Arabian Gulf to unveil a world of marine wonders.

To find out more, call +971 9 244 9000 or visit marriott.com 70 worldtravellermagazine.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES

STAYCATION

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites For a longer stay, make yourself at home in a stylish suite overlooking Dubai Marina THE ROOMS & SUITES If you're planning on staying in Dubai for a while, or simply appreciate the convenience of having your own kitchen, the stylish suites at this four-star property in Dubai Marina are just the ticket. There are one-, two- and threebedroom suites available, each featuring a modern kitchen and a sleek marble bathroom with an oversized tub. Room service is available around the clock.

THE FOOD Jump-start your day with a delectable menu of international dishes at Counter Culture CafĂŠ, which also offers free Wi-Fi so you can stay well connected to the wider world. For hearty British fare with a twist, The Croft is the place to go. On the 52nd floor, Observatory Bar & Grill is where you should head for classic dishes and crafted drinks, with panoramic views of the waterfront.

THE ACTIVITIES Your fitness regime needn't suffer, as all guests enjoy access to the fitness centre.

When you want to unwind, head to Saray Spa, which offers a range of pampering treatments, such as the signature Saray Arabic Coffee Awakener, which includes a body scrub, mask and massage. Get out and explore Dubai, including Jumeirah Beach Residence and Dubai Media City, which are just a short stroll away.

To find out more, call +971 4 319 4000 or visit marriottharbourdubaidining.com 72 worldtravellermagazine.com

C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour

Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.

1 INSPIRED BY

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THROUGH THE LENS Great Ocean Road, Australia I've always dreamt of visiting Australia with my family one day, to buy a Jeep, get out on the open road and discover what this beautiful country has to offer. So when my husband and I decided to travel full time, we knew it was the right moment to fulfil our fantasy. When we drove down this particular road, I just knew it would look stunning from above. We immediately pulled over, took out the drone and fired that baby up in the sky. I asked my husband to keep driving the Jeep up and down the road a few times while I tried to capture its true beauty. I love the effect of the four layers: crashing blue waves, rocky coastline, green mountains and the winding road.

Travel and photography fan Heleen Van Assche loves to travel because: "It makes us richer in every possible way."

Follow her at @the_global_ wizards, theglobalwizards.com

EMAIL US YOUR BEST TRAVEL PHOTOS in high-res jpeg format, along with the stories behind them to habiba@hotmedia.me and you may end up being featured on this page

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BE OUR TRAVEL COMPANION

Stay up-to-date with all that’s happening on our social channels and join in the conversation by sharing your experiences. Here’s where you can find us…

@worldtravellerme Double tap our dreamy destination shots and tag us in your images for a chance to feature on our wall. @WorldTravellerME Stay up to date with travel stories as we post them. @WTravellerME Make the most of your 280-character allowance by sharing your best travel moments with us. #WorldTravellerME

A two-night stay for two at JA The Resort in Dubai This five-star beachfront hideaway (Dubai's largest resort) could be yours for two nights on a bed and breakfast basis. With an 800-metre stretch of golden sand, a world-class golf course, horseback riding and watersports aplenty on offer, plus lots more, it's a coveted holiday spot for families. It's home to three properties – JA Beach Hotel, JA Palm Tree Court and JA Lake View Hotel – with stand-out restaurants, including Kinara by Vikas Khanna. To find out more and to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win. (Terms & conditions apply).

TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, inspire your next trip…

1

The Knowledge.

Read our handy how-tos, from getting to grips with travel insurance to helping kids beat jet lag, and more.

2

Staycations.

Take a peek inside these top hotels and resorts on your doorstep, and then book your next mini break.

3

Insider guides.

Check out our in-the-know travel edits of some of the most popular holiday destinations on our radar.

worldtravellermagazine.com 79

Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

CORNER JUNIOR SUITE Carlton Hotel St. Moritz, Switzerland

Be in the pink inside this rose-tinted suite, which teams its distinctive dĂŠcor with a panoramic view of Lake St. Moritz and the snow-capped Swiss Alps. Located on the fifth floor of this boutique hotel, the 75-square-metre suite features a corner sofa under the pitch of the roof, providing a cosy spot in which to unwind. Plus, with its luxurious dressing room and walk-in wardrobe, this elegant hideaway is ideal for fashion mavens in search of the perfect fit.

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Inspiration. Expertly crafted.

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience.

The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular Meeting Spaces.

JW MarriottÂŽ MarquisÂŽ Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com