Page 1

Issue 121 | May 2018 | CoMplIMentary Copy

Monaco Italy ParIs BeIrut

30 hot Produced in Dubai Production City

hotels for eId

San Francisco

From its steep streets and wonderful wharf to its golden gateway – welcome to California’s coolest city


Experience Polynesia in the heart of Dubai Parks and Resorts Step into an exciting world of curiosity with an unforgettable stay at Lapita, a unique gateway to the endless fun and enjoyment on offer at Dubai Parks and Resorts. Create moments to treasure with friends and family and stay in Polynesian inspired rooms with theme park access, bond over a meal at incredible restaurants and unwind at the lazy river and Ola Spa. Exactly like nothing else.

Book now at lapitadubaihotel.com Tel +971 4 810 9999

Lapita, Dubai Parks and Resorts, Autograph Collection Hotels Dubai Parks and Resorts, Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O. Box 334221, Dubai, UAE LapitaHotel |

LapitaHotel |

LapitaHotelDubai


THE BEST JUST GOT BETTER How do you top having the world's best-selling light jet for six years running? You make it even better. More spacious. More ergonomic. More technologically advanced. And more phenomenal. Now, the world’s fastest, longest-range single-pilot aircraft is also the most intuitively luxurious light jet in all of business aviation. Introducing the beautifully designed and brilliantly engineered Phenom 300E – the new standard in value and customer experience.

EmbraerExecutiveJets.com


Welcome note

This monTh’s travel companions

Whether you travel for the culture, the food or simply to unplug from everyday life, one thing many of us agree on is that the best way to experience a new place is through the eyes of a local. It’s something writer Katie Glass was eager to master on her latest visit to San Francisco – a place she has long-wished to call home. Find out how she fared during her month-long staycation

managing Director

on page 36. Similarly, those thinking of heading to Paris in the

Victoria Thatcher

near future can glean some insider advice on discovering the

editorial Director

city’s best bits thanks to our locals’ guide on page 30. From the

John Thatcher

best photo opportunities to the most delicious dawn to dusk

group Commercial Director

dining and all those little places that characterise this grand

David Wade

dame of Europe, you’re sure to see Paris in a new light.

managing editor

reveals his favourite places to eat around the globe

Also in this issue, Nick Redman take us on a journey along the

Faye Bartle

Italian Riviera (page 44) and we get under the skin of Beirut in

faye@hotmediapublishing.com

our handy mini guide (page 66).

Contributing editor

p24 Theo Randall

Lastly, as we observe the Holy Month, we wish all our readers

Claire Malcolm

Ramadan Kareem. If you're yet to book your Eid break away,

art Director

we’ve selected 30 top hotels to inspire you, from the best island

Kerri Bennett

hideaways to remote country manors and fun hotels for families

Designer

(page 50).

p26

Perfumer lucy akhuRsT lays open her travel journal

Jamie Pudsey Contributing Designer Julie Lee

Happy travels, Faye Bartle

Senior advertising manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmediapublishing.com Production manager Muthu Kumar

Follow us at… FaceBook @worldtravellermagazine insTaGRaM @dnataworldtraveller

p29 leading hairdresser Rossano FeRReTTi shows us how to shop Monaco

TWiTTeR @WT_magazine

BRouGhT To you By

Photography credits: Getty Images, Phocal Media, and Shutterstock

Click it

Get the skinny on what’s happening online and on our social channels on page 87

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller. Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

p71 Travel writer naTasha aMaR shares her most memorable adventures

Cover image An aerial view of the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco. Getty Images.

World Traveller 5


ESCAPE TO HERITANCE AARAH‌

Wake up in paradise to the music of the sea, dive amidst exotic underwater marvels and indulge in gastronomic wonders inspired by the cuisine cultures of the world. Here, luxury is redefined with every offering we have for you – from stays at the beautifully designed Villas to the spaces meant for rest and relaxation.

OPENING SOON For further details, please call Cox & kings: 1800 209 0400 / 098675 65599 or SMS: BOOKING to 5757567


Contents May 2018

22

Hotel Nobu Ibiza Bay

regulars …HARAA ECNATIREH OT EPACSE

10

17

26

24

dna slev ram retaw rednu citoxe tsdima evid ,aes eht fo cisum eht ot esidarap ni pu ekaW si y ruxul ,eTrAvEL reH .dGOALS lrow eht fo serutGLOBETrOTTEr luc enisiuc eht yb derCHEF’S ipsni TOP sredTABLES now cimonAoLIFE rtsawELL g ni TrAvELLED egludni Nature's display of the weird and Discover London's latest go-to The top tables of Theo Randall, Perfumer Lucy Akhurst on ot salliV dengised yllufituaeb eht ta syats morf – uoy rof evah ew gnireffo y reve htiw denfieder wonderful takes us from place for gourmands and which the man behind one of the why a sunrise in Brittany is burnt .noitadestinations xaler dnarea on tstrend er rof tnaworld's em sbest ecahotel ps erestaurants ht Canada to China into her memory

29 SHOP MY CITY

NOOS G30 NINEPO THE LOCALS’ GUIDE TO PArIS

88 SUITE DrEAMS

Find out which boutiques make the Think you know the City of Lights? Welcome to Miami. :sgFerretti's nik & xoC lTest lac your esaknowledge elp ,sliaagainst ted re htruf roF And to the Mandarin Oriental's cut in hairdresser Rossano that guide 76 575to7Monaco 5 ot GNIKOOB :SMSofrour o 9insider 9556guides 576890 / 0040 90marvellous 2 0081top floor suite World Traveller 7


Contents

50

Amandari, Bali

features

36

44

50

SAN FrANCISCO

SAN FrUTTUOSO

EID ESCAPES

Katie Glass gets to see if the grass really is greener on the other side, as she lives like a local in San Fran

The little (and little known) beauty spot along the Italian Riviera sees Nick Redman far from the madding crowds

Eid's around the corner and we've got 30 good reasons why you should start packing now

weekends

66

71

72

81

A LONG wEEKEND

MY GrEAT ESCAPES

STAYCATIONS

rEADEr OFFErS

IN BEIrUT

Natasha Amar's globetrotting tales take in snowfall in Iceland and hiking in Denmark

Enjoy a well-deserved weekend away at these luxurious hotels in the UAE

Take advantage of our exclusive deals for your next adventure

A short break that will live long in the memory

8 World Traveller


THE SCIENCE AND ART OF LONGEVITY

Discover our new Master Detox program.

Come over and join the club.

Clinique La Prairie - Rue du Lac 142 | 1815 Clarens-Montreux | Switzerland | +41 21 989 34 66 info@laprairie.ch www.laprairie.ch


take me there

banff national park, canada In any given season, Canada’s Banff National Park is breathtaking in its beauty. Abundant wildlife roaming against the backdrop of Rocky Mountain peaks, glacial lakes framed by sky-reaching alpine forest, and millenniaold caves. But it’s during the winter season that Mother Nature stages her must-see show here. This spectacular sight is the result of perished plants that lie at the bottom of a lake releasing methane bubbles, which are then embraced by the winter's chill, turning to ice as they rise to the surface.

10 World Traveller


travel goals

World Traveller 11


take me there

antelope canyon, USa Arizona has something of a monopoly on other-worldly rock formations. Alongside the Wave at Vermilion Cliffs, so named because of its u-shaped furrows, Antelope Canyon represents the most visually rich. The reddened rocks, which look like reams of fabric billowing in the wind, are split into upper and lower parts, allowing for occasional beams of light to pierce the gaps between them, dousing the rocks in a medley of rich colours. A photograph of this occurrence, captured in dramatic black and white by landscape photographer Peter Lik, sold for $6.5 million in 2014, making it the world’s most expensive photo.

12 World Traveller


travel goals

World Traveller 13


take me there

14 World Traveller


travel goals

JiUzhaigoU natUre reServe, china

At first glance, it’s easy to imagine this image is of coral, resplendent beneath turquoise waters. Inch in for a closer look, however, and it swiftly becomes apparent that you’re privy to a bird’s eye view of a forest, its trees thickset with golden foliage and reflecting into the lake in which they stand. This is one of more than 100 lakes dotted across China’s Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve, where the water’s colour is bestowed its vibrancy by high levels of calcium carbonate and aquatic plant life.

World Traveller 15


T H E G A R D E N S O F O N E & O N LY ROYA L M I R A G E . N I C E T O H AV E S O M E W H E R E T O S P R E A D YO U R W I N G S . Unique and mesmerising surroundings with all the grandeur, dignity and hospitality of old Arabia with a private beach, oasis-like pools, traditional hammam and inspirational cuisine.

oneandonlyroyalmirage.com +971 4 399 9999


may

Globetrotter Be informed, be inspired, be there

tyne to visit? our resident travel guru Rob arrow reckons england's northerly newcastle upon tyne should be on your radar this month; find out why on page 18. our ideas for globetrotting adventures also take in London's latest culinary hotspot (page 21), and a new hotel opening fit for a princess (page 22). World Traveller 17


globetrotter

The Reel Deal

sCReen time

The Reel Deal Reel Cinemas lifts the curtain on Dubai’s first hotel cinema and dine-in movie theatre Venues in Dubai continue to redefine the moviegoing experience, with Jebel Ali Recreation Club the latest place to get in on the silver screen action. It's now home to celebrity US chef Guy Fieri’s Kitchen & Bar and Dine-in Cinema, which lets movie-goers order a three-course meal, to a table in front of their plush seat. Should you have chosen a dud movie, comfort comes in the form of Fieri's signature Mac & Cheese Burger and New York marbled cheesecake. In another first for Dubai, the dine-in venture follows the opening of a Reel Cinemas within the city's Rove Downtown hotel – what better way to while away your jet lag?

18 World Traveller

the hot list

Trending Places dnata Travel's seasoned explorer, Rob Arrow, gives the inside track on where to go this month

Ras Al Khaimah offers a lot these days, such as the world's longest zip line, watersports and great dining. Plus, the redesigned The Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Hamra Beach is elevating the pool villa concept.

Just a 5.5-hour flight away, resting on the Mediterranean shore, Tunis has so much to discover, from the ruins of Carthage to the winding streets of the Medina. And Four Seasons Hotel Tunis has a wonderful Guerlain spa.

Mauritius is a muststay destination for families, with a number of resorts renovated and reopened, including LUX* Grande Gaube (pictured) and One&Only Le Saint Géran. There are some fab offers to be had.

Say hello to a blissful beach break with this cotton canvas clutch from Guadalupe. shopatsauce.com

Newcastle upon Tyne is often overlooked as a direct entry point to the UK, but it has re-emerged as a cool riverside city with great dining. Seaham Hall, just outside Newcastle, is steeped in history, yet is a chic country house setting.


A LIFETIME COMMITMENT DESERVES LIFELONG MEMORIES

Palace Downtown is an award-winning setting for elegant weddings that come alive against the shimmering backdrop of Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain. With an intimacy that lends to its romantic air, whether outside or within its enthralling Arabesque architecture, it is perfect for an expression of vows, and the celebration thereafter with friends and family. To discover how we can make your wedding day the most memorable and special it can be, call us on +971 4 428 7888 or visit palacehotels.com @PalaceDowntown #PalaceDowntown


globetrotter

Why We love london’S

AlBemArle Street

Something is stirring on Mayfair's storied Albemarle Street. On the back of last month's news that Heinz Beck has been handed the culinary reins at Brown's (London's very first hotel, which opened in 1837), two of London's most notable tastemakers, Rob Roy Cameron and Tony Conigliaro, will this month open Gazelle, a two-storey café, bar and restaurant, adding to the number of respected restaurants to have opened on the street. "This will be a bit of a new direction for me," said drinks specialist Conigliaro. "I always wanted to open a place where the food stood equal with the drinks and would be a complete destination in its own right. With Rob, I’ve been lucky enough to discover someone who works and thinks like me and just gets it." With Cameron's culinary CV listing a stint at Catalonia’s famous El Bulli, we're expecting Coniglario's wish to be well and truly granted.

3 other places to eat on albemarle street

1

2

3

Gymkana A luxe Indian restaurant with a Michelin star to prove its culinary credentials, a great way to sample Gymkana's masterful dishes is to head here on a Saturday for the lunch chat menu, which sees four tasting dishes and two further courses served sharing style. Be quick to snag the lion's share of the garlic chilli soft shell crab.

Isabel One of the street’s more eye-grabbing venues – thanks to its lemon yellowfaçade – Isabel is the younger sister of celebrity haunt Casa Cruz in Notting Hill, and every bit as good. Come for the deliciously rich beef short rib ravioli and black truffle; stay to be seen within the padded, silkbrocade walls of downstairs hotspot The Dragon Room.

Beck at Browns Back in London after a five-year absence, Heinz Beck brings his inimitable style to the city's historic Brown's Hotel. A more casual affair than the three Michelin-starred La Pergola in Rome, for which Beck is best known, the menu here plucks the finest seasonal ingredients from the British Isles and marries them to Beck's Italian favourites.

World Traveller 21


globetrotter

The opening of the 336-room, five-star The Murray (pictured) reawakens a landmark building that has stood in Hong Kong's Central since 1969, and marks the third (and flagship) launch from Niccola Hotels. Things are about to heat up in Ibiza. This month (4 May) sees Hotel Nobu Ibiza Bay re-open on the shores of Talamanca Bay, the shortest of walks from the boutiques, restaurants and clubs of Marina Botafoch. Also set to re-open this month in the wilds of Zimbabwe is the revamped Singita Pamushana Lodge.

king kong

The official launch of Hong kong's The Murray heads up this month’s new openings

22 World Traveller

As part of its design transformation, two new two-bedroom pool suites have been created, both overlooking the hippo-filled Malilangwe Dam. Back on the beach, Mykonos welcomes the arrival of the Mykonian Avaton (11 May) to the craggy shoreline of southern Mykonos. The gastronomic offering is worthy of note here – the local produce used in the restaurant is grown exclusively for the hotel, while a fisherman catches seafood in the surrounding waters solely for his family

and the hotel’s chef. The opening of the Nana Princess (4 May) brings five-star style to the north end of Crete, and with it a stunning Grand Royal Villa, replete with vintage arcade machines and '50s juke box. Design also plays a prominent role at the Form Hotel, which opens this month as the latest addition to Dubai's Culture Village. The cool, all-white façade gives way to bespoke furniture and art inside.


UAE | INDIA | USA | SAN MARINO | HONG KONG | NIGERIA

Your one-stop shop for business aviation services, specialising in Aircraft Sales, Aircraft Management, Aircraft Charter and CAMO.

Tel: +971 4 299 8444 Email: info@empire.aero Web: www.empireaviation.com


food

Chef’s top tables Theo Randall opened his first restaurant, Theo Randall at the InterContinental on London’s Park Lane, in 2006 and has two successful cookbooks to his name

On my wish list…

I’ve always wanted to go to l'auberge du pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse's restaurant in Collonges-auMont-d'Or, near Lyon. I have many of his cookbooks, and would love to see where it all started.

Core by Clare smyth London corebyclaresmyth.com This restaurant in Notting Hill is in a beautiful building that Clare completely refurbished. As you would expect, the food experience is spectacular in every way. From a simple potato dish to the most perfectly cooked piece of skate and roasted grouse. Her team is extremely professional but also incredibly friendly. The menu is small, balanced and very seasonal. I cannot wait to go back. Favourite dish: Charlotte potato with trout and herring roe. 24 World Traveller

allard Paris

osteria bell'italia Cisternino, Puglia

restaurant-allard.fr This wonderful French gourmet bistro is owned by chef Alain Ducasse. For me, it's the perfect small restaurant. You enter through the kitchen and the tables are close together yet comfortable to sit at. There's a great buzz, but what’s even better is the aroma from the kitchen. On my last visit we had poached turbot on the bone with hollandaise and roasted Bresse pigeon with new potatoes cooked in butter – delicious. Favourite dish: Roasted duck for two with green olives.

osteriabellitalia.it This is a fantastic little restaurant in the back streets of beautiful Cisternino, with outdoor tables set along the narrow, white-walled passageways. It's the place to go to taste the real flavours of Puglia. The delicious Antipasto Bell'Italia is enough for four people, even though the menu says it’s for two, and the pasta is excellent. It's hard to spend more than €100 for two. Favourite dish: The thick spaghetti with wild local mushrooms, tomatoes, cacio (cheese) and capocollo (cold cuts).


Personality

A LIFE WELL TRAvELLEd

Lucy Akhurst The founder of La Maison Hedonique reveals her sensualist travel style, her fashionable take on Paris and why Japan is on the agenda

lamaisonhedonique.com 26 World Traveller

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Photo by tomas Mahdlø

New York holds a special place in my heart. My husband and I got married there. We eloped to 50 Central Park South at The Ritz-Carlton, where the staff treated us like royalty, and got married in our hotel room with the front desk manager and the concierge as our witnesses. There’s nothing better than travelling light. My husband and I once went to Australia for three weeks to see his family with hand luggage only. It’s amazing how much you can do without. The one item I never travel without, however, is a battery-powered tea light candle. Even on flights, I like to have a candlelit meal with my husband. He’s my favourite person to travel with – he can make an airport boarding queue seem romantic. I like getting lost in a new destination. I’m not the sort of person who has a checklist of the best restaurants and exhibitions. I do like to find good places to eat, however. I’m a sensualist and believe the best route to the heart of a place is to eat the food. I visit Paris quite a lot as we have a tiny flat there. Recently, I enjoyed a long overdue weekend of walking, delicious food and laughter with a friend. We visited Le Musée Yves Saint Laurent, saw the Irving Penn exhibition at the Grand Palais and went to Azzedine Alaïa’s Je Suis Couturier exhibition at the late designer’s atelier-art gallery in the 4th arrondissement. I'd love to see more of Japan. I went skiing there once and it was the most 'foreign' place I've ever been. I will never forget waking up to a glorious sunrise on a beach in Brittany on an unseasonably warm November morning. I sat gazing at the sea, cup of Fortnum & Mason coffee in hand, utterly content.


IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THAI-INSPIRED LUXURY ON DUBAI’S ICONIC PALM JUMEIRAH.

Whatever your vision of the perfect vacation – be it a fun family beach holiday, honeymoon romance or just relaxing in beachfront exclusivity – Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort offers a uniquely luxurious escape, inspired by Thai exoticism and the heartbeat of Dubai. Unwind in an enchanting Beach Pool Villa, with your very own private infinity pool. Soak up tranquil Arabian Gulf views from your Over Water Villa. Step straight from your room into the crystal clear waters of our 10,000 square metre lagoon pools. Culinary journeys excite with a melange of mouthwatering flavours. The prestigious sanctuary of Anantara Spa rejuvenates and renews, from a range of inspirational treatments, to indulgent rituals in the Turkish Hammam.

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT P.O. BOX 71607, EAST CRESCENT, PALM JUMEIRAH, DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES T +971 4 567 8888 E resdubaipalm@anantara.com


WORLD TRAVELLER X Sun SiyAm RESORTS Olhuveli Beach & Spa Maldives

Follow the sun From Maldives to Sri Lanka, Sun Siyam Resorts offer holidays to suit all types of travellers, from families to luxury seekers and hopeless romantics

T

he countdown to summer is on, and if you’ve got your heart set on escaping to a private island resort, Maldives and Sri Lanka are likely to be at the top of your wish list. And while the sheer number of places to choose from can seem daunting at first, Sun Siyam Resorts has done the hard work for you, by tailoring its offer to suit different types of travellers. It has three resorts dotted around the Maldives, and one on the East Coast of Sri Lanka, each with a point of difference. So whether you’re looking for more quality time with the family, want to spend your days scuba diving amid vibrant marine life, or indulge in some serious spa pampering, you’re sure to find your dream holiday spot. Bear in mind that, at all four resorts, children under 15 years old can stay, play and eat for free when accompanied by two adults, under the same meal plan (valid for up to two kids). Plus, there’s a kids’ club in each property, with fun activities, as well as a tot-friendly swimming pool and playground run by an experienced team.

For sheer indulgence Sun Aqua Vilu Reef Crank the luxury up a notch at this pictureperfect five-star resort. Settle into a spacious villa overlooking your own private 28 World Traveller

The Sun Siyam Iru Fushi

pool and enjoy the pleasure of waking up to beautiful views every day. Sun Aqua Spa is the place to go to have those knots kneaded. For some one-on-one time with no distractions, request a dinner for two on the beach, during which you can sample some of the resort’s homegrown produce.

For Five-sTar Family Fun The Sun Siyam Iru Fushi Championing luxury with traditional Maldivian culture, this five-star beach hotel invites you to reconnect with loved ones. The vibe is ‘easy luxury’, with stunning accommodation that makes the most of the views. Have fun on the water by taking part in everything from snorkelling to learning to sail. Parents can head to the Spa by Thalgo France for a stress-busting massage while the little ones run wild in the kids’ club before catching up about the day’s events over a meal at one of the resort's 15 restaurants and bars.

For dedicaTed divers Sun Aqua Pasikudah Five-star suites and beach villas await at Sun Aqua Pasikudah, home to some of the best diving spots in Sri Lanka. The water on the East Coast is often calm and clear, which makes it ideal for coral and other wildlife to flourish. Many of the best diving points are shallow so it’s good for less experienced divers, too. When you’ve resurfaced, refuel with delicious local dishes, such as curries and salted fish, and decompress with a soothing spa treatment.

For aFFordable luxury Olhuveli Beach & Spa Maldives Put your feet up at this great value resort, where you can be active or as chilled as you wish. Paddle around the swimming pool, try your hand at watersports or unwind in the spa’s hydrotherapy pools. There are four dining venues and three lounges, where the entertainment is low-key, but we recommend you plump for the signature dining under the stars experience at least once during your stay. A karaoke room, weekly crab races and regular Maldivian cultural shows add to the fun. Find out more at sunsiyam.com


Shopping

Clockwise from left: Rossano Ferretti; Vilebrequin SS18 collection; Aqua Kenzo; Givenchy Fall 2018; The Pavilions; the Valentino boutique

shop my City

Monaco

*The temporary development by Monte-Carlo SBM will be replaced by One Monte-Carlo in Q1 2019 (with access to the full building from December 2018).

Leading hairdresser Rossano Ferretti, known for his coveted ‘the method’ cut, has been living in monaco for almost a year Monaco is tiny in size, but large on luxury. It is arguably one of the most famous shopping destinations in the world for designer labels and attracts people with serious spending power. As you’d expect, it is home to practically every big name you can think of and if you’re looking for something specific, such as a limited edition item, you’re sure to find it here. I have a salon at Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo and I regularly find myself stepping into the new Cartier boutique nearby, as well as the Gucci, Valentino and Hermès boutiques along Avenue de monte-Carlo. I’m 57 now, and I get a lot of my clothing and accessories custom-made, but these are definitely my favourite brands. You won’t be able to miss the eye-catching the pavilions* in Boulingrins Gardens – five pebbleshaped structures located between Avenue Princesse Alice and Place du Casino – that are home to luxury brands including Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Chanel

and Lanvin, among others. The heart of Monaco is also a treasure trove for fine jewellery from the likes of Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget. The sky’s the limit in terms of what you can buy here, however, with people travelling from all over the world to purchase everything from cars to super yachts. For a slightly more down-to-earth experience, head to Le métropole shopping Center on Avenue des Spélugues, which mixes brands such as Givenchy and Kenzo with MaxMara, Paule Ka and Vilebrequin, among others. If you need to rest the credit card, be a style spectator by relaxing at a café and watching the world walk by. The locals are very luxury orientated and often get their hands on pieces straight off the catwalk, so it’s like a real life fashion show.

Rossano Ferretti has 23 salons around the world, including in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.rossanoferretti.com

Photo by Vergely Benjamin © MONTE-CARLO Société des Bains de Mer

“The locals are very luxury orientated”

Photo by Vergely Benjamin © MONTE-CARLO Société des Bains de Mer

World Traveller 29


locals’ guide

the locals' guide to

Paris

Say bonjour to the grande dame of Europe with top tips from a trio of insiders who’ve made Paris their adopted home

30 World Traveller


locals’ guide The Seine with a view towards the Eiffel Tower

the avid photographer Travel and lifestyle photographer Carina Okula shares the best places to go to capture photos that will be worthy of framing carinaokula.com

1

Along the Seine. An early morning walk along its banks is one of the city's most beautiful places to photograph. Now the love locks have been removed from Pont des Arts, it’s a great spot for a full view of the islands and the majestic buildings either side of the water. Head to water’s edge for the very best views of Île Saint-Louis. The earlier in the morning the better as, before the boat traffic starts, the water offers a perfect mirror reflection.

2

Jardin du Luxembourg. Each of Paris' gardens hold their own unique appeal but top of the list to photograph is Jardin du Luxembourg. Tucked behind Luxembourg Palace, home to the French senate, the gardens come to life in the afternoon with sauntering locals and toy sailboats bobbing in the pond.

3

Paris’ royal squares. You won’t want to miss Palais Royal with its black and white Les Deux Plateaux art installation by Daniel Buren. It’s a fun place to master your ‘strike a pose’ moves. Similarly, Place des Vosges, one of the oldest city squares, will inspire you with its alcoves of morning light and shadows under the arches.

4

Rooftop vistas. Check out local landmarks with steps to the top – think Arc de Triomphe, NotreDame, Sacré-Cœur and the Pantheon (you can climb to the top of the dome) – for a bird’s eye view of mansard roofs and charming terracotta chimney pots.

5

Eiffel Tower. A visit to Paris wouldn’t be complete without photos of the Eiffel Tower – I'm still smitten with the beast myself. Make a beeline to Port Debilly and front row seats to the best show in town from the cobblestoned waterfront. World Traveller 31


locals’ guide

the gastroNoMe A self-confessed culinary obsessive and food writer who will work for cheese, Catherine Down knows all the best spots for dawn to dusk dining @catherinedown For my perfect picnic basket I head first to Laurent Dubois (fromageslaurentdubois. fr), my favourite cheese shop in the city, and potentially the world. The array of options is mind-boggling and he always has a great selection of goat’s cheeses and, in particular, aged Comté. Next is the legendary Poilâne (poilane.com) bakery where you can buy their sourdough miche by the slice, and I can never resist their flaky, buttery individual apple tarts. I then head to Marché Couvert Saint-Germain for fruits, vegetables, olives and other spreads. Just next to the covered market is Maison Mulot with its great traiteur section, which is owned by talented baker Fabien Rouillard. From there, it’s a short stroll down to the Seine for a cosy picnic in a beautiful setting. Mmmozza, the mozzarella-centric Italian shop near Temple Square Park in Le Marais, has excellent, inexpensive sandwiches and

the park is popular with locals laying out in the sun or playing ping-pong. Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is another gorgeous picnic spot high up on a hill. The former quarry has some of the dreamiest views of the city. Its Pavillon Puebla is a very pleasant café, with a nice outdoor space. Hot new openings include Terra, also in Le Marais, which is really taking off (the cabillaud en croute is particularly delicious). The space is beautifully designed and feels like you’re sitting inside a botanical garden. Robert (robert-restaurant.fr), on Rue de la Fontaine au Roi is another brand new spot from talented chef Peter Orr. The menu changes daily with different homemade pastas, soups, terrines, and a variety of roasted meats and seafood. See and be seen at C.A.M, an unexpected spot close to République. The space is pretty bare bones – it’s the unusual Asian food and laidback vibes that bring the crowds. You’ll find packs of tissues instead of napkins on each table (they’re needed for when you dig into the steak tartare with spicy gochujang sauce and peanuts). Don’t miss the sambal soup with prawns. Paris’ outdoor market scene attracts people come from around the world. My favourite is the Marché Aligre in the 12th arrondissement. It’s open every day of the week except for Monday. The indoor

Goat's cheese

market has meats, rôtisserie, cheeses, flowers and a bakery. Outside, you’ll find streets overflowing with produce vendors. The prices are great and the quality and selection is excellent. Le Quincy is a favourite spot as it serves exactly the hearty, classic French food you would imagine, but can rarely find done well. With the wooden beams, kitsch decor and red-checked tablecloths you feel like you’re in a country lodge. The elderly owner’s playful service makes every meal there a delight. And you can’t beat a place that does ‘serveyourself chocolate mousse’ to finish.

Good taste

The city's biggest food festival, Taste Paris is taking place from 17-20 May at The Grand Palais, with the capital's best restaurants offering food tastings, cooking shows, and a chance to meet top chefs

32 World Traveller

Seafood delights at the market Liberty of London


locals’ guide

Approaching the Louvre

the iNterNatioNal iNsider

Credit: Photos: With thanks to Dubrovnik Tourist Board

An American in Paris, multimedia journalist Jake Cigainero swapped the Lone Star State for the City of Lights and is a fount of knowledge @jacobstapp If you’re only in town for 24 hours, don’t miss Musée de l’Orangerie (museeorangerie.fr/en), if only to see the works of Claude Monet. The painter’s panoramic Water Lilies cycle will not disappoint and you can easily get lost staring into the swirls of colourful paint. Interesting fact: if the museum’s famous oval rooms were linear instead, the masterpiece would stretch more than 100 metres long. Replete with art-filled opportunity, once you've done the Louvre and Pompidou, Galerie Max Hetzler (maxhetzler.com), Galerie Rabouan Moussion (rabouanmoussion.com) and Carpenters Workshop Gallery (carpentersworkshopgallery.com) show interesting, thoughtful artists. Alternatively, to see classics in a new light, the recently opened Atelier des Lumières (atelier-lumieres.com) creates immersive experiences of iconic artists such as Gustav Klimt. For peace and quiet, my zen spot is Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Built by Napoleon III, the trees, hills, waterfall and lake immediately transport you out of the city. When the weather is nice, forget the Seine and park your picnic blanket here. Tourist chotchke aside, a little something from a Paris marché aux puces (flea market) is a nice memento to take home. Maybe an antique Champagne bucket or some coupes (glasses). Also, you never know what gems you might find at the famed Hôtel Drouot auction house. For Paris by night and local flavour, La Gare (@LaGareJazz) is a jazz joint housed in an old train station in the north-eastern 19th arrondissement. With live music every night it’s not a place to chat with your pals as when the music’s playing, the owner will shush you. So, just get a drink and enjoy the vibes.

World Traveller 33


World Traveller x avaNI SeychelleS BarBaroNS reSorT & Spa

Shore thing

Get unplugged and adopt the easy-breezy island way of life at AVANI Seychelles Barbarons Resort and Spa

S

low down the pace, switch off your devices and feel the sand between your toes at this tropical island resort and spa, where warm Creole hospitality sets the tone for a tailormade escape. The 124-room property, on the tranquil west coast of Mahé, is just a few minutes from Anse Barbarons bay and close to Grand Anse – the longest stretch of sand in the area. Great for couples and families

34 World Traveller

alike, you can tailor your stay to suit your mood by selecting from the sun-soaked activities, pampering rituals and delicious dining experiences on offer. The first decision you need to make is which room to plump for. If a soul soothing view is a top priority, the AVANI Beach Front Rooms, set along the palmfringed shore, are sure to deliver. Unwind on your private balcony or terrace, drink in hand, and enjoy life’s little pleasures.

And when it’s time to rest, the sound of the lapping waves will lull you to sleep. Lazy days are easy to come by here but we recommend you factor in some downtime at AVANISPA – the AVANI Signature Touch oil massage will send you into an entirely different dimension of relaxation. If you have little ones in tow, they’ll be happy playing in the Kids Club, which is free for those aged four to 12 (with babysitting services available for younger tots).


Get checked in, and then get out and explore

Tamarind beach restaurant

Afterwards, get some vitamin D by the 25-metre-long swimming pool. If you feel like getting active, you can bend it like Barbarons at a sunrise yoga session, ace your game on the tennis court, take to the water for a peek at the marine life beneath your fins, or fulfill a celluloid fantasy with the wind in your hair as you enjoy a horseback gallop along pure white sands. Beyond the resort, half-day trips to the capital, Victoria, exploring the crystal clear waters of the marine park, or a day spent island hopping are just the ticket for a snapshot of Seychellois life. Culinary pit stops to assuage those post-excursion hunger pangs come in the form of four dining venues. Elements, with its beachside deck setting, is all about Creole specialities (we rate the cultural dining nights that mix market-fresh food with music and dance). Indian Ocean seafood and a table on the sand defines the Tamarind experience while Gravity Bar’s casual bites and beanbag culture is ideal for a chilled experience. Want to take a piece of the island vibe home? Forgo the usual gift hunt and sign up for a Creole cooking class so you can keep a taste of your trip with you forever. To find out more, visit the website at minorhotels.com/en/avani/seychelles-barbarons

Ocean View Suite Bedroom

The swimming pool

World Traveller 35


36 World Traveller


San franciSco

A bridge too fAr?

Most destinations are simply places to visit. Others feel like home. Katie Glass has a go at living like a local in San Francisco

World Traveller 37


I

didn’t go to Riga and long to belong. I’ve never spent time in Bangkok and found myself looking at house prices, or stayed in Frankfurt and wondered what I could do there for work. Even in New York, a city I love, I am happy following the tourist trail. But in a handful of special cities, being a sightseer doesn’t cut it. In these places I sense that, as a tourist, I’m not just missing out, but missing the whole point. And that is always how I’ve felt about San Francisco. Perhaps it’s because I’m intimidated by – almost in awe of – Frisco, LA’s sophisticated older sibling, only a few hours up the coast, yet infinitely more erudite and urbane. Perhaps it’s inevitable I’d fall for a place where Flower Power met the big city and gave birth to Facebook (a Venn diagram of all my favourite things). Whatever the reasons, I’ve long wished San Francisco was my home. San Fran suits real life so much better than a holiday, too. It isn’t a city of touristy sights, but one of lovely, liveable moments – long waterfront walks, even longer bar stool debates, and authentic street food you’d never find on a mini-break. It can’t be a coincidence that San Francisco is the home of Airbnb, the holiday-rental company originally based upon the idea that travellers get more from a destination when they stay with a local rather than in a hotel chain. This is the place where fieldto-farm dining and latte art were invented, for goodness’ sake. Places don’t get more local than this. Of course, I couldn’t just pack up my job, flat and friends on a whim. That’s too capricious, even for me. Instead, I convinced my other half to take a monthlong staycation – a maxi-holiday when we would make San Fran our home. Swerving the touristy districts, I looked to the neighbourhoods this time and found a cottage in Bernal Heights. It’s an area in the southeast (between the hip barrio Mission and the 101 freeway to Palo Alto, home of Google) that has boomed as the city has ‘siliconised’. More residential than Mission, it’s so family-friendly the locals call it ‘Maternal Heights’. Like residents from the get-go, we took an Uber from the airport (how else to get around the city where the app was invented?). Our cottage was a cute clapboard affair with a small garden, on

38 World Traveller


san francisco

Clockwise from below: Haight Street Market; street art in HaightAshbury; a row of houses in Pacific Heights

“Of all American cities, San Francisco is one of the quickest to feel like home” one of those typically steep streets peering down over the city’s rooftops. As soon as we turned the key, I felt I’d moved in. I loved Bernal Heights immediately. It was the perfect ’hood for a mini life-swap. On my first morning, I walked down to the local string of stores, Cortland Avenue, where the Progressive Grounds Coffee House and the Heartfelt gift shop nicely evoked San Fran’s hippie-meets-capitalist vibe. For instant blending-in, my boyfriend and I only allowed ourselves to buy American food. We raided the Good Life Grocery store, carrying home brown paper bags of exotic chia-seed drinks and Almond Dream yoghurts we’d never tried before. (And because we weren’t yet quite as healthy as everyone else in the city, we also bought a sugary Betty Crocker chocolate cake mix in the corner store.) We made a picnic and ambled to Bernal Heights Park, just at the corner of our road, before climbing to the peak to sit looking out at our new neighbourhood spread out beneath us. We’d never have had this moment, or found this park, or this view, as tourists. A bit more adventuring and soon I’d found our local Farmers’ Market (Alemany Farmers’ Market, every Saturday) and the

World Traveller 39


40 World Traveller


Opposite: Park overlooking the Mission district This page: Poached duck eggs on a slice of toasted San Francisco sourdough bread

coffee shop, Farley’s, around the corner on Potrero Hill – a friendly place with walls of magazines, serving home-blend coffee to residents. I even joined the nearby gym where, because this is California, you can work out with your dog (fitlocalfit. com). They love dogs as much as people here, and the dogs were some of our most charismatic neighbours. There was the Staffordshire terrier sitting upright on a chair in Farley’s as his owner drank a macchiato, and the French bulldog, whose owner described him as his ‘foster dog’ (I don’t think he was joking). We even wondered, since we were pretending to live here, if we should download the Walkies app, which lets you take a local shelter dog for a walk. We resisted. But only just. Of all American cities, San Francisco is one of the quickest to feel like home, because it is so walkable. You can also Uber or catch the Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) train, and trams and buses criss-cross the city, too. But I found my stride trooping the streets, often heading for nearby Mission. It reminded me of East London, where the trendies and Turkish community meet. Except Mission is a working-class Latino

area that’s been gentrified by the tech boom, creating a mish-mash of cultures in which millennial trends sit side-by-side with Mexican tradition. Around Valencia Street, piñata shops sit next door to artisanal bakeries serving gluten-free bread. I spent happy hours sitting in a hipster coffee shop watching teenagers Instagram flat whites, while outside, elderly Mexicans shuffled by. Soon, I found myself with a regular morning beat, as if I’d been living here for years. I would walk from Bernal Heights to Mission, passing Precita Park Café to pick up an (oh-so Californian) kale smoothie for breakfast. Then I’d weave down the hill, past pretty pastel wooden houses, on to Clarion Alley with its graffiti murals. And since I had nowhere specific to be, I’d carry on walking. Luckily, San Francisco is a city made for freelancers like me. I’d head to Dandelion Chocolate, an artisanal chocolatier and café, where the air is thick with the smell of warm cocoa (and the wi-fi signal is strong). During sunny breaks, I’d head to Dolores Park to watch tech-valley billionaires lying on the grass, while people in tie-dye threw poi (those ‘performance art’ ribbony rope World Traveller 41


42 World Traveller

each a night. I’ve always wanted to snoop inside these iconic, historic houses, and now I found myself living in one. Beneath atmospheric eaves in rooms with vast picture windows, real log fires and modern geometric cushions, I revelled in the juxtaposition of old and new – just like San Fran itself. Best of all, I had a view of San Fran’s bestlooking local – the Golden Gate Bridge. To describe Pacific Heights as affluent is putting it mildly. It’s older and classier than the southern suburbs, but what you lose in coffee joints, you gain in spectacular views and access to Golden Gate Park – sprawling grounds that somehow combine a Japanese Tea Garden with herds of real bison. Haight-Ashbury, the starting point for Flower Power, was also within strolling distance. Although not what it was in the ’60s, it still has enough of a hippie vibe that you can hear the sound of bongos. I also finally made it to Sausalito, a pretty waterfront town I’ve long wanted to explore. On San Francisco Bay’s north shore, across Golden Gate Bridge, it’s

only a 20-minute drive from the city (or 30-minute ferry), yet I’ve never found time to visit before. We stayed on the Yellow Ferry, a large barge at the heart of a boho houseboat community, whose alternative energy drew Fleetwood Mac to write Rumours here. We lit a fire and sat outside watching sunset fall over the bay, then woke the next day to find seals congregating on a pontoon just beyond our bedroom. We spent our last weekend in California driving south to Big Sur, and a cabin we’d rented among the redwoods. I’ve never stayed somewhere so simple yet spectacular. In the day we drove past vast stretches of seascape. At night, in an outdoor bubble bath, we sat five storeys up among thousand-year-old trees – so close, we could reach out and touch their red bark through the bath foam. I loved it. And yet it was only when we were driving back to San Francisco that I really felt like I was going home. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

Credit: Katie Glass / Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

things). When it rained, I spent a fortune in offbeat boutiques, such as fashionable Azalea or my favourite shop, Dog Eared Books, a place that feels like an institution even though it’s only been there since the ’90s. This overflowing store is stocked with new and obscure titles, quirky stationery and unusual magazines. On lunch breaks I’d hang out there, flicking through books I’d never buy, and spending too much on ones I’d never read. In the evenings, Mission was our go-to ’hood. Here, at twinkly fairy-lit bars, we’d gorge on the best and cheapest Mexican food in town. I discovered Puerto Alegre, a worn joint, where we gulped down Margaritas and enchiladas, all the more delicious because we were the only Brits around. We wanted to try on a couple of suburbs for size, so we moved to Pacific Heights for the second part of our stay: a posh, quiet northern suburb of extravagant white mansions, where Mrs. Doubtfire was filmed. The apartment we rented was in a grand Victorian townhouse – a snip considering a group of four could stay here for about $150


san francisco

Opposite: Sail boats docked in Sausalito This page: The coastal route linking San Francisco to Big Sur

“In the day we drove past vast stretches of seascape. At night, we sat five storeys up among thousandyear-old trees�

World Traveller 43


44 World Traveller


italian riviera

Solitary Refinement In the ’50s it was subtly jet set. Now mega-yachts and cruise ships vie to visit the stellar village of Portofino. If it all gets a little rich for you, a simple palatecleanser lies just west along the coast. Nick Redman boards a ferry for a spiritlifting stay in tiny San Fruttuoso

World Traveller 45


N

owhere in Italy is blessed with marine waters quite like Liguria. In San Fruttuoso, their quiet paperweight clarity shelves to mysterious depths the shade of old jade – just made for a solitary swim (even though it’s early October) and calm midlife contemplation. I wade in and, as I float, around me swirl acorns and slender pine needles, twirling down into obscurity with each breaststroke. A lady with a grand bandanna drifts past, back and forth, impossibly elegant, wearing sunglasses the size of saucers, and plenty of immaculate plum lipstick. I wanted the Med of bygone beauty and I’ve found it here, in the fingernail cove of San Fruttuoso, hidden at the end of a long, narrow inlet, as if to keep the spot a secret. It’s a speedboat’s skim north of busy-bee honeypot Portofino, where Hollywood stars used to stay and play in the ’50s, while fishwives mended nets on the cobbles. There, today, the stitches are by Hermès and Pucci – or Dolce & Gabbana (who live on the far hill). But in San Fruttuoso it feels as if the clocks stopped in Technicolor times. As I sit, post-swim, in a white folding seat at bar Giorgio, that lippy lady quite resembles the young Sophia Loren cavorting – then again, it could be the blur induced by my Campari, served in a rough-and-ready tumbler. If real luxury is simplicity, I’ve found it – although complications meant I nearly didn’t make it. My train from Genoa was supposed to reach Camogli at 2.25pm, in good time for the last battello to San Fruttuoso at three. Yet we shuddered to so many halts in tunnels, inching between so many suburban stations, that we clanked in at 2.47pm and made it to the harbour in a taxi screech with two minutes to spare. So far, so un-superstar. But the $13 voyage was priceless. Twenty minutes in, midway to San Fruttuoso, dolphins appeared, breaking the surface in whirlpools. So entranced were all on deck, the captain slowed the boat and span it in idle circles as passengers photographed the pop-up circus of fins. Dolphins. Delfino. Porto Delfino, the Roman name. For years it was Portofino that pulled me back to Liguria. The world-famous village of candy-coloured homes, curled in its amphitheatre of pine-green and aquamarine, felt ‘Riviera46 World Traveller

Below: San Fruttuoso's famous abbey overlooks its shimmering bay Right: Life in San Fruttuoso's slow lane

Opening page: Graffiti in Plazoleta de Chorro Quevedo Clockwise from above: a food truck in Zona Rosa; a house in the colonial district of La Candelaria; Church Museum

“Nowhere in Italy is blessed with marine waters quite like Liguria’”


Words: Nick Redman / The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Syndication

italian riviera

retro’, minus the Côte d’Azur-size crowds. Particularly in late season, when seen from the distant terrace of the place to stay, Hotel Splendido – five-star-aloof on its hill above, like a movie star itself. Staying here, usually a lucky guest of friends with influence, I’d spend hours taking in that view... A paint swipe of pool-blue among cypresses in late sun; parasol pines, silhouetted like broccoli on the dusk headland; the Church of San Giorgio, butterscotch in evening light; and the dots of gulls over the dark Gulf of Tigullio. That was then – or thenabouts. I’ve been here a few times in the past 20 years, and it all blurs into one beautiful memory. Today? You don’t need to keep up with the Kardashians to know that tiny Portofino has hit a new stratosphere. In every paparazzo pic, it seems, there’s some slinky Russian mega-yacht with three pools, or a Gulf State goliath, all teak decks and helipad. They tell the story of a newer Porfofino – and an older me. Ah well, the world has a way of moving you over a horizon. I’m not bitter – I’m fiftysomething, nearing that look-back time of life, to when holidays were more Kodak than Kindle. Midlife crisis? Might the roadless remoteness of San Fruttuoso be the minibreak to heal matters? When the battello pulled in I couldn’t wait to drop my bags at Da Giovanni, a restaurant with rooms I’d remembered from day trips of old, sailing in from Portofino: long lunches among the balcony’s red geraniums, forking up sheets of lasagne smothered with pesto in the regional fashion, and jug after jug of exquisitely gluggable white. With plastic hangers in the wardrobe and a Cell Block H-worthy shower about 10km down the hall, this wasn’t Portofino – it was Pauperfino. But wrestling open the window of room No. 8, I could hardly complain. San Fruttuoso was lovelier than I recalled, with wrinkly rocks of elephantine grey framing the cove in soft evening light, and vertical flanks of pine rising to near-mountainous heights above its centrepiece: a Benedictine abbey tilting in the shingle, wedged in fast and topped with a shell-like dome, as exotic and elusive as a hermit crab. Flip-flopping down to a café, La Cantina, I drank a $7 pottery jug of fizzy Soave while the day dwindled like a spent candle over vessels pulled up on their wooden racks. The last blaze turned the sky and

the sea ivory, the figures in rowing boats into jerky black shadow-puppets moving across it. The day’s final battello came and went, chugging out of the cove and south to its next port of call, Portofino, taking basically everyone with it – except me. Birdsong embroidered the night as I ate on the terrace, blissfully alone but for a slightly sinister figure, berating his companion first in French, then Italian. Da Giovanni is half board and you eat what they bring you. There was salad, pesto lasagne and a strange ice cream-andcrunch combo — all delicious, which was just as well. Nowhere else seemed to be open in San Fruttuoso at this hour, and I doubt even Sir Chris Bonington would survive the pitch-black ascent up and over

the headland to Portofino. Next day, it was a different story. With four great little beach cafés and very few tourists, I was in love with my own (practically) private hideaway. To think a place of such rarity and affordability could still exist in the Med! The smug thought alone merited another pottery jug of Soave, and I sat like Robinson Crusoe enjoying a lock-in, recalling younger days of simpler stays. Before long I’d made friends – 30 people live here in summer, I learned from Alessandra, who rented the sunloungers, although apparently the number dwindles to three out of season. Alessandra filled me in on Lina, who had managed the little market by the abbey since the ’50s and lived in the crenellated Doria Tower, right at the top. There was

World Traveller 47


Clockwise from top left: The hike from Camogli brings San Fruttuoso into view; a restaurant in the harbour of Portofino; a bird's eye view of the bay of San Fruttuoso; mussels and king prawns

48 World Traveller

Arturo, 90 years old, who came from the Veneto after World War II and spoke a mix of Genoese and Venetian. (‘It’s quite difficult to understand him,’ she confided, erring on the side of extreme understatement.) Then there was Anna, who ran La Cantina and served up quite extraordinary mussels cooked in garlic, parsley and Prosecco, served in huge shells crowned with barnacles. With their big, warped, sideways smiles, those fleshy pink bivalves looked like a cross between Mick Jagger and Ridley Scott’s alien, and rocked your socks off. My midlife crisis mini-break was getting nicely into its groove. The usual stressy, holiday-history-book stuff was, handily, limited to a few details in a volume lent to me by Alessandra. It was in Italian, which I don’t speak, but flicking through its photos on a lounger in the sun, I got the picture. It seems villagers settled in the first half of the 16th century; however, the abbey was much older, last inhabited by French monks in 1879, although, long after, fishermen continued to drape their nets from it to dry. And there ended the lesson – I was already fast asleep. That night there were, perhaps inevitably, mussels on the menu at Da Giovanni, served by the nice-if-a-tad-gruff proprietress Giuseppina, who’d been here since 1972 and smoked cigarettes with a perilously long ash that sometimes I feared might end up as seasoning. But I didn’t mind eating the same thing twice in one day. Who wants an arm-length menu when you’re on holiday? Pure option trauma. All the same, as I sat alone contemplating my secondo piatto of fried fish, I couldn’t help wondering what might be going on at the Splendido. Would guests be singing Elton and Kiki’s Don’t Go Breaking My Heart with shinyjacketed pianist Vladimir, the way I used


italian riviera

to do? Would there be just one more late drink under the faded photos of glamorous guests Clark Gable and Humphrey Bogart, Maria Callas and Aristotle Onassis? There is a fine line between solitude and loneliness, I realised, as I drifted off, window open. The shallows lapping sounded so content, so rhythmic, they could have been someone I loved lying next to me, deep in sleep. With that, an unwelcome sound of snoring struck up through the wall of my room and I remembered I wasn’t totally alone. The magic of San Fruttuoso is also its curse, namely its inaccessibility. If you miss any of the ferries from it, the only way out is to hike up: north to Camogli, south to Portofino. I did need the exercise. I’d been eating and drinking way too much and by day three I’d milked dry the sightseeing potential of San Fruttuoso. How many more times could I kill 20 minutes fingering the novelty pencils in the abbey gift shop before being lynched? When, finally, I hobbled into Portofino, I worked out I’d only taken two hours, but it felt as if I’d walked for a week. Inhalations and exhalations were raspy roars between my ears as I made the initial 400m climb out of the cove – up steep, endless steps, among glades of green light, to the top. All along the summit, the sea, framed by pines, was radioactive blue. The descent to Portofino was a civilised breeze. What midlife crisis? Powering downhill, I felt

fit and fiftysomething, passing olive groves radiating downy light, a dusty Fiat basking in rusty retirement under a bough. Glimpses of Tigullio Gulf appeared, flecked with sails, then the Splendido, in all its russet-and-ochre glory. I reached the port ready for a gulp of much-needed glamour. It was my first close-up in years. If, previously, dusk and distance had lent enchantment, Portofino in the harsh light of day wasn’t such a celebrity stunner. Breathy disco-house tracks pumped from a bar. Gift shops were selling Limoncello in small, glass bottles shaped like stilettos. Baseball caps sporting the town’s multi-million-dollar name were piled high – $10 a pop, should designer gear in the Pucci boutique be beyond anyone’s budget. The ferry back to San Fruttuoso was a breath of fresh air. The modern me would have had a meltdown if I’d spent a day, let alone three, in crowded Portofino. But I was so glad I spent my last night there. I had to – to get from San Fruttuoso straight to Genoa in time for my morning flight would have called for divine intervention, and with my persistent gift shop browsing, I’d definitely exhausted any last goodwill from the higher powers in the abbey. So, late the next afternoon, I stepped off the ferry from San Fruttuoso one last time, and into my pensione off the Portofino piazza. When I came back out it was evening. Peace had settled over Jolly Wine Bar, with the Church of San Giorgio brooding beyond the boats, and the outline of Castello Brown rising under an immaculate full moon. The cruiseship crowds had gone, leaving a few hardcore devotees to their water’s-edge drinks, reclining on the blue-and-whitestriped banquettes – very retro-Riviera. The stars of the past would surely have recognised this Portofino and approved. Ella Fitzgerald’s Night & Day, then Frank Sinatra’s New York, New York drifted as a waiter emerged with olives, and I would have stayed longer, but from somewhere up there I heard the siren call of the Splendido. Might the love song of Elton and Kiki be needing my attention? Perhaps it was time for the old grande dame and me to try another duet. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com World Traveller 49


Get Away! Still unsure where to head for Eid? We round up an inspiring selection of hotel options across the globe from theme park favourites to island idylls Words: Hazel Plush

50 World Traveller


Eid EscapEs

The island hideaways

Wooden walkways, colonial-style buildings and an obligatory palm-fringed beach define the barefoot paradise of Centara Grand Island Resort & Spa Maldives, where you can choose a villa that’s either aside powder-soft sand or over water. Making that decision is as stressful as it gets here, with the resort’s all-inclusive concept caressing all other cares away. A taste of the tropical awaits in Seychelles, where Constance Ephella welcomes guests to its beautiful location on Mahé – shrouded by lush landscape and home to two beautiful beaches. Families are particularly well catered to here, with a two-bedroom Family Villa and the grander still Presidential Villa (room for the full Swiss Family Robinson) heading the accommodation options. Our trinity of island escape options is completed by Mauritius, and the marvellous Shanti Maurice Resort & Spa. It's home to what are arguably the island's finest villas, and an equally impressive wellness spa. Relaxation guaranteed.

The grand dames

For over 140 years, the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok has stood majestically beside the Chao Phraya River: an oasis of calm in one of the world’s most thrilling cities. Bangkok has no finer place to stay: its restaurants are five-star, its service legendary, and its elegant rooms matchless for their frontrow river views. With 90 years under its belt, The Peninsula Hong Kong is a baby in comparison, but is just as remarkable for its Michelin-starred fare and suites overlooking the harbour. Its signature ‘Peninsula Moments’ – such as art exhibitions, cooking classes with its celebrated chefs, and jaunts in the hotel’s own helicopter – set it apart from the (admittedly stiff) HK competition. The same can be said of The St. Regis New York, which has welcomed the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Salvador Dalí and John Lennon since it opened in 1904. And who can blame them? In a city full of landmark hotels, the St. Regis is – quite simply – the best.

Centara Grand Island Resort & Spa Maldives

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok

World Traveller 51


COMO Uma Canggu Bali

Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island

The new kids on the block

A little luxurious idyll on Bali’s beachy south coast, COMO Uma Canggu Bali is so in tune with its wild and wonderful surroundings that you’d never guess it was just a few months old. With a handful of seafacing suites, a glorious spa, and two restaurants serving super-fresh bites, it’s the perfect fusion of barefoot chic and all-out indulgence. As is fellow newbie Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island, which occupies its very own coral isle. Retreat here for a five-star castaway experience: bathing on your own stretch of sugary sand (the beach is 14km long) and cooling off in the sapphire waters of the Indian Ocean. Even further under the radar is Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Andaman Islands, which opened in March – one of the few hotels on this littlevisited archipelago in the Bay of Bengal. Come for the pearl-white beaches and opulent villas, but stay for the amazing experiences: snorkelling with turtles, kayaking through mangrove forests, and relishing the joy of falling utterly off-grid. 52 World Traveller


Eid EscapEs

Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World Resort

The theme park favourites

With the likes of Legoland, Motiongate and Bollywood Parks on its doorstep, there’s no finer place to flop after an action-packed day than Lapita, Dubai Parks and Resorts – a full-on family-friendly hotel. Kids will love the lazy river and swimming pools, while grown-ups will relish the fantastic service and onsite spa. Fancy Florida’s theme parks instead? Head to the luxurious Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World Resort, which has its own water slides and lazy river, kids’ club, and exclusive out-ofhours access for guests. Grown-ups can retreat to the adults-only pool and spa, and enjoy fine dining overlooking Disney’s nightly fireworks. Just an hour from Barcelona, PortAventura World is one of Europe’s hottest theme parks with its newly-opened Ferrari Land and white-knuckle rides aplenty. Book Hotel PortAventura for unlimited entry, themed rooms, and discounted access to Spain’s premiere Caption xoxoxoxx waterpark – perfect for cooling off in summer . World Traveller 53


Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris

The clinchers for kids

Giraffe Manor

You might pretend that you booked Giraffe Manor for the kids, but your secret’s safe with us. Set in a private Kenyan wildlife reserve, this charming hotel is home to a band of friendly permanent residents: a herd of endangered Rothschild giraffes, who will happily snaffle your breakfast through an open window, It’s delightful family-friendly fun – as is Soneva Fushi’s fabulous programme of dolphin watching, al fresco movie nights, beach picnics and guided snorkelling in the Maldives. Its kids’ club, The Den, is the best of the best – a true paradisiacal playground. For a city break that the whole family will enjoy, look no further than Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris, which combines plush suites and Michelin-starred dining with a fun and inventive children’s programme, including treasure hunts through the Louvre.

The romantic escapes

Château de Bagnols is not your average five-star hotel. For over 800 years, this French castle has towered over the Lyonnaise countryside – all Gothic turrets and majestic stone archways, surrounded by beautiful Beaujolais vineyards. Today, with its four-poster beds, pretty gardens and divine locallysourced cuisine, it’s the perfect romantic retreat. In Morocco, the Royal Mansour Marrakech is also a remarkable work of art – adorned with traditional tile work, silks, and exquisite antiques. Instead of bedrooms, it has riads: private residences offering the 54 World Traveller

utmost seclusion, with their own swimming pools, courtyard gardens, and roof terraces overlooking the city. In Bali, you won’t find a more private hideaway than Amandari, where self-contained suites and villas open up onto their own unique gardens, complete with infinity pools overlooking the tropical jungle below. The residences are so well-designed, and the staff so discreet, you’ll feel like you have this palatial paradise all to yourselves.


Eid EscapEs

Royal Mansour Marrakech

World Traveller 55


Four Seaons Hotel George V

56 World Traveller


Eid EscapEs

Cliveden House

The country manors

Follow in the footsteps of Britain’s royals, to Cliveden House – a handsome Berkshire estate just an hour from London. This five-star manor is set amid acres of glorious woodland and gardens, with rooms overlooking the famous River Thames. Its afternoon teas are legendary – as is its roll call of famous guests: William Churchill and Joseph Kennedy among them. In Ireland, surrounded by the emerald-coloured countryside of Country Mayo, Ashford Castle is also renowned for its rural razzmatazz. Celebrities and dignitaries – far too many to count – have rested their heads on its velvet pillows, and sipped sundowners in its sumptuous drawing room. In Tuscany, meanwhile, Castel Porrona offers more understated countryside chic. For five centuries, this Italian castle was passed Caption xoxoxoxx down through Siena’s most noble families before being transformed into a gorgeous five-star boutique hotel – with a magnificent three-level spa and 25 beautiful suites.

The foodie havens

Ashford Castle

What happens when a world-renowned chef is the master of not just a restaurant, but a whole hotel? “Perfection in food, comfort and service” is the promise of Chef Raymond Blanc, proprietor of Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons in Oxford, England – and he is unfalteringly true to his word. The Michelin-starred menu draws on Blanc’s Gallic roots, but with a distinctly English flair: locally-reared lamb, Cornish crab, and vegetables fresh from Le Manoir’s beautiful garden. For gourmand vegetarians, Montali – a five-star farmhouse in Umbria, Italy – boasts an exquisite meat-free menu that changes every day. Syrupy baked figs, sheep’s cheese ravioli, golden olive oil from the hotel’s own groves… every dish is packed with local flavours. Meanwhile, in Paris, guests of the Four Seasons Hotel George V will find a constellation of Michelin stars on their doorstep: its three magnificent restaurants hold five of the accolades between them. Le Cinq – with three stars to its name – has Christian Le Squer at its helm: an artist and chef extraordinaire. World Traveller 57


Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles

58 World Traveller


Eid EscapEs

Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates

The shoppers’ delights

The Dubai Mall needs no introduction – and nor does its glamorous neighbouring hotel, The Address Downtown Dubai. If shopping is on the agenda, this is the place to stay: with its private entrance to the world’s biggest and best shopping mall, exquisite suites with The Dubai Fountain views, and a clutch of fabulous restaurants in which to debut the day’s purchases. Fancy a quieter, more curated collection of shops in Dubai? Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates is located next door to its fashionable namesake – with almost 700 high street and designer names, plus Magic Planet, Ski Dubai, VOX Cinemas (and much more) just a few steps away. For more farflung retail therapy, immerse yourself in Singapore’s luxury malls, independent boutiques and colourful bazaars – with JW Marriott Hotel Singapore South Beach as your base. From Little India to Suntec City mall, the city’s best shopping areas are within walking distance – as are the glitzy restaurants and nightspots of Marina Bay.

The style set

Is it a hotel? Is it an art gallery? However you define it, The Mandrake is one of London’s most exciting places to stay. In its open studio, an ever-changing line-up of international artists create contemporary pieces within full view of guests – a thrilling experience for art aficionados. The haute cuisine bites at Serge et Le Phoque (sister of the Michelin-starred Hong Kong restaurant) are also works of art. Heading to LA? Rest your head at Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles – though this hipster-meets-Hollywood joint is more about parties than snoozing, with in-room DJ turntables, eclectic artwork, and rooftop pool crammed with fashion-forward beauties. For more discreet digs, JK Place Roma – in the heart of Rome – is a masterpiece of understated opulence, and feels more like an exclusive club. Rooms are decorated with one-off pieces of art – a marble sculpture here, an oil painting there – amid super-stylish furniture and luxe beds. A sumptuous slice of la dolce vita.

The Mandrake

World Traveller 59


WORLD TRAVELLER X TAJ EXOTICA RESORT & SPA, MALDIVES

Beauty spot Indulge in a luxurious Eid escape at this private island resort in the Indian Ocean

I

f it feels as if the year is flying by, we know just the place to go to hit the pause button. Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, on Emboodhu Finolhu Island, in the middle of one of the largest lagoons in the Maldives, is designed to make it seem as if time is standing still. Just 15-20 minutes’ by speedboat from Velana International Airport, it provides a calming setting in which to unravel yourself from your everyday schedule. From dozing off in a hammock to scuba diving amid the vibrant marine life and getting philosophical during a spot of stargazing, there are plenty of ways to refresh body and mind. There are 64 sea view villas and suites, each with a private sundeck. A popular option is the One-Bedroom Beach Suite With Pool, which has a living room, private courtyard and outdoor shower set within a walled garden. The top choice for the last word on luxury, however, has to be the award-winning Rehendi Presidential Overwater Suite With Pool, which boasts a living room, two bedrooms, a freshwater pool, two salas (open-air pavilions) and a suspended sundeck complete with a hammock over the lagoon.

60 World Traveller

Rehendi Presidential Overwater Suite With Pool

There are five ways to dine. For a memorable meal, head to Mediterranean restaurant The Deep End, which is perched over the water, with outdoor seating and candlelit tables adding a romantic touch. Alternatively, 24 Degrees has a nightly themed menu offering a variety of cuisines from around the world – a highlight of which is the teppanyaki. Call upon the dedicated butler service to curate an itinerary of activities, from a seaplane tour of the stunning landscape to a sunset cruise combined with dolphin

watching – that’s in addition to all manner of watersports, from wakeboarding to taking the catamaran out to the reef. Dial down the pace at Jiva Spa, where the resident Ayurveda physician can point you towards the best treatments to suit you. Couples who want to make a grand gesture can renew their wedding vows by the water’s edge for memories that will last a lifetime. To find out more, visit taj.tajhotels.com/ en-in/taj-exotica-maldives


Still or Sparkling?

Our private villas in the Maldives spoil you for choice. What will it be: your private pool, the sparkling ocean or the soothing renewal of the Jiva Spa? To reserve, call (+960) 6642200 | Email: exotica.maldives@tajhotels.com | www.tajhotels.com/maldives


ADVERT

IC TROPICAL RETREAT LERS WITH TASTE.

ed on Mauritius, according and the beaches, beautiful A RETRO-CHIC TROPICAL RETREAT lapping lagoon waters at FOR TRAVELLERS WITH TASTE. e would have you believe this. A RETRO-CHIC TROPICAL RETRO-CHIC TROPICALRETREAT RETREAT AAA RETRO-CHIC RETREAT resh-spirited luxury resort and TROPICAL RETRO-CHIC TROPICAL RETREAT was modelled Mauritius, according FORHeaven TRAVELLERS Hoppen MBE has brought an on WITH FOR TRAVELLERS WITHTASTE. TASTE. FOR TRAVELLERS WITH TASTE. FOR TRAVELLERS WITH TASTE. Twain — and the beaches, beautiful k and feeltotoMark a north corner gardens and gently lapping lagoon waters at uritius, and forward-thinking LUX* Grand Gaube would have youaccording believe this. Heaven was modelled on Mauritius, Heaven was modelled onMauritius, Mauritius, according Heaven was modelled on according heric barsIn and the island’s Heaven was modelled on Mauritius, according reinventing this fresh-spirited luxury resort and to Mark Twain — and the beaches, beautiful to Mark Twain — and the beaches, beautiful to Twain — and beaches, beautiful waits. spa, toMark Mark Twain —Hoppen and the theMBE beaches, beautifulan designer Kelly has brought gardens and gently lapping lagoon waters atat gardensand and gently lapping lagoon waters at gardens waters entirely looklapping and feellagoon to a north corner gardensoriginal and gently gently lapping lagoon waters at LUX* Grand Gaube would have youyou believe this. LUX* Grand Gaube would have believe this. of multicultural Mauritius, and forward-thinking LUX* Grand Gaube would have you believe this. LUX* Grand Gaube would have you believe this. In reinventing this fresh-spirited luxury resort and Inreinventing reinventing thisfresh-spirited fresh-spirited luxury resort and restaurants, atmospheric bars and the island’s In this luxury resort and M In reinventing this fresh-spirited luxury resort and spa, designer Kelly Hoppen MBE hashas brought anan easy, breezy spirit awaits. spa,designer designer Kelly Hoppen MBE brought spa, Kelly Hoppen MBE has brought an spa, designer Kelly Hoppen MBE has brought an entirely original look and feel to a north corner entirelyoriginal originallook lookand andfeel feeltotoaanorth northcorner corner entirely entirely original look and feel to a north corner of multicultural Mauritius, andand forward-thinking ofmulticultural multicultural Mauritius, forward-thinking of Mauritius, and forward-thinking L U X R E S O R T S . C O M of multicultural Mauritius, and forward-thinking restaurants, atmospheric barsbars andand thethe island’s restaurants, atmospheric island’s restaurants, atmospheric bars and the island’s restaurants, atmospheric bars and the island’s easy, breezy spiritspirit awaits. easy,breezy breezy awaits. easy, spirit easy, breezy spirit awaits. awaits.

STYLE WITH SUBSTAN

Kelly Hoppen’s design gives soul to every soothing space while LUX* Sleeptight mattresses ensure you retu home refreshed. The guest bedrooms are beautiful, enriched with tactile ceramics, hand-woven baskets, glaze ceramics, finest-quality linens, robes slippers, and spacious en-suite bathro Residential-quality linens and thoughS touches create the ambience of an eleK home-from-home, with the sense youe S in a stylish retreat, a world away from h every day. Secluded is an understatem a when it comes to the private-as-can-c be Honeymoon Suites and Villas witc s exclusive beach access.

R t h Travel the world through the excitingi e cuisines at LUX* Grand Gaube. Six restaurants and seven bars simmew b and fizz with South American, Turk e

FLAVOUR AND FLAIR

French, Creole and an array of Asian flavours. INTI brings Argentinian- F Peruvian delicacies and wines to T Mauritius for the first time. Pulsing c to Latin American music from late S a afternoon onwards, there’s an inspired DJ-soundtrack at the Ceviche and PiF Bar, where the namesake specialities fl P expertly prepared in front of you. FeeM transported to the Aegean for seafoodt grilled meats, mezze and the finest a

D B e t g


NCE

Turkish wines at Bodrum Blue. Flit from wellbeing programmes include Kamran salads or Asian stir-fries made just for you, Bedi of Mind Body Method; the master to classic French specialities and Creole practitioner combines neuro-linguistic curries, at the many stations in open-plan programming, hypnotherapy, meditation urn Palm Court Restaurant where every seat and Pilates. There is tennis, a Padel court, s has a sea view. Toast these unmistakably outdoor circuit-training, pitch and putt, Mauritian coordinates with an inventive a driving range and a professional coach ed rum cocktail ordered by tugging on the to accompany you to the 18-hole Mont and cabana-style rope at the Tree House Choisy World Class Golf Course designed ooms. at Bodrum Blue. Flit wellbeing programmes include Kamran the shade of a banyan tree. Turkish wines by Peter Matkovich but from a short drive STYLEunder WITH SUBSTANCE htful salads or Asian stir-fries made just for you, Bedi of Indulgedesign in ribsgives or crab from the away. Going on a fun-packed holiday hasMind Body Method; the master Kelly Hoppen’s soulburgers to egant classic French specialities and Creole practitioner combines neuro-linguistic Smokespace House, with feet in the softto white never been so good for you. every soothing while LUX* u’re curries, atTurkish the many stations in open-plan programming, hypnotherapy, meditation wines Bodrum Blue. from programmes include Kamran Turkish wines at Bodrum Blue. from wellbeing programmes include Ka Turkish winesatat Bodrum Blue.Flit Flit fromFlitwellbeing wellbeing programmes include Kamran Sleeptight mattresses ensure you return sand by the quirky, vintage Citroen H STYLE WITH SUBSTANCE STYLE WITH SUBSTANCE STYLE WITH SUBSTANCE STYLE WITH SUBSTANCE includeisKamran Bedi of include Mind Body and thewines finestwhere Turkish drinks at Bodrum Turkish at Bodrum Blue. Flit from wellbeing programmes Kamran Palm Court Restaurant every seat and Pilates. There tennis, a Padel court, m STYLE WITH SUBSTANCE home refreshed. The guest bedrooms salads or Asian stir-fries made just for you, Bedi of Mind Body Method; salads or Asian stir-fries made just for you, Bedi of Mind Body Method; the master salads orSOUL Asian stir-fries made just formade you, Method; Bedi of Mind Body Method;combines the master the m ART, AND MORE street-food van.design Kelly Hoppen’s design givesgives soulto to every thepitch master practitioner Blue. Flit from salads or made Asian stir-fries has a sea view. Toast thesestir-fries unmistakably outdoor circuit-training, and putt, the master Kelly Hoppen’s design soul to Kelly Hoppen’s gives soul Kelly Hoppen’s design gives soul to salads or Asian just for you, Bedi of Mind Body Method; ment are beautiful, enriched with tactile toyou, classic French specialities and practitioner combines neuro-lingu classic French specialities and Creole practitioner combines neuro-linguistic Kelly Hoppen’s design gives soul to Mauritian to classic French specialities andLUX* practitioner combines neuro-linguistic soothing space while LUX* Sleeptight mat- to neuro-linguistic programming, hypnotherajust for to classic French specialities andCreole with an inventive aCreole driving range and a professional coach REASONS TO GO every soothing space while LUX* every soothing space while LUX* every soothing space while LUX* tocoordinates classic French specialities and Creole practitioner combines neuro-linguistic -ceramics, hand-woven baskets, glazed curries, at thestations many stations in open-plan programming, hypnotherapy, curries, at many in programming, hypnotherapy, meditation tresses ensure you return home refreshed. py, meditation and Pilates. is tennis, med Creole curries, at the many openevery soothing space whileensure LUX* curries, atthe thetugging many stations inopen-plan open-plan programming, hypnotherapy, meditation rumreturn cocktail ordered by on thestations toinaccompany you to the 18-hole MontThere Afinest-quality NEW WORLD OF Sleeptight mattresses you Sleeptight mattresses you THAN EVER Sleeptight mattresses ensure youreturn return ceramics, linens, ensure robes and curries, at the many stations in open-plan programming, hypnotherapy, meditation th The guest bedrooms are beautiful, enriched a Padel court, outdoor circuit-training, pitch plan Palm Court Restaurant where every Palm Court Restaurant where every seat and Pilates. There is tennis, a Pade Palm Court Restaurant where seat and Pilates. a Padel court, cabana-style rope at the Tree House Choisy Class GolfThere Course Sleeptight mattresses ensure you bedrooms return Palm Court Restaurant whereevery every seatWorld and Pilates. Thereis designed istennis, tennis, a Padel court, home refreshed. The guest WELLNESS FITNESS slippers,home and spacious en-suite bathrooms. refreshed. The guest bedrooms home refreshed. The& guest bedrooms Palm Court Restaurant where every seat and Pilates. There is tennis, a Padel court, with tactile ceramics, hand-woven baskets, and putt, a driving range and a professional seat has a sea view. Toast these unmistakably under the has shade of aview. banyan tree.these byunmistakably Peter a short drive has a seaToast view. Toast these outdoor circuit-training, pitch and Original contemporary artunmistakably abounds — Matkovich aasea outdoor circuit-training, pitch and putt, home refreshed. The guest bedrooms has sea view. Toast these unmistakably outdoorbut circuit-training, pitch and putt, Residential-quality linens and thoughtful are beautiful, enriched with tactile are beautiful, enriched with tactile are beautiful, enriched with tactile has a sea view. Toast these unmistakably outdoor circuit-training, pitch and putt, glazed ceramics, finest-quality linens, coach to accompany you to the 18-hole Mont Mauritian coordinates with an inventive bevIndulge in ribs or crab burgers from the away. Going on a fun-packed holiday has The spacious next-generation Mauritian coordinates with arange driving range and a coach professional c Camille Walala's stand-out pop art isan theinventive Mauritian coordinates with an a adriving range and professional beautiful, enriched with tactile Mauritian coordinates with aninventive inventive driving andaGolf a professional coach touchesare create the ambience of an elegant ceramics, hand-woven baskets, glazedHouse, ceramics, hand-woven baskets, glazed robes and slippers, and spacious en-suite Choisy World Class Course designed erage ordered bythe tugging onan theinventive cabana-style Mauritian coordinates with ceramics, hand-woven baskets, glazed a driving range and a professional coach Smoke with feet in soft white never been so good for you. LUX* Me spa tunes visitors into the rum cocktail ordered by tugging on the to accompany you to the 18-hole M unmistakeable bold, bright backdrop to a toby rum cocktail ordered by tugging on you the 18-hole Mont home-from-home, withfinest-quality the sense you’re ceramics, hand-woven baskets, glazed rum cocktail ordered by tugging onthe the toaccompany accompany youtobut to 18-hole Mont bathrooms. Residential-quality linens andbyand Peter Matkovich athe short driveMont away. rope at the Tree House under shade ceramics, linens, robes ceramics, finest-quality linens, robes and sand the quirky, vintage Citroen H theon rum cocktail ordered by tugging the of to accompany you to the 18-hole ceramics, finest-quality linens, robes and cabana-style rope at the Tree House Choisy World Class Golf Course d tropical landscape while bespoke gin a stylish retreat, a world away from Beach Rouge. Look for Gouzo graffitis cabana-style rope at the Tree House Choisy World Class Golf Course designed ceramics, finest-quality linens, robes andof cabana-style rope atinthe Tree House Choisy Class Golf Course designed thoughtful touches create the bathrooms. ambience Going onWorld a fun-packed holiday has never banyan tree. Indulge ribs or crab burgers SOUL slippers, and spacious en-suite bathrooms. ART, AND MORE slippers, and spacious en-suite street-food van. cabana-style rope at the Tree House Choisy World Class Golf Course designed slippers, and spacious en-suite bathrooms. every day. Secluded is an understatement under theof shade of atree. banyan tree. byfor Peter Matkovich but a short dr therapies work their magic in bathrooms. thatched by street artist, Jace, dotted around the the shade a abanyan Matkovich a short drive an elegant home-from-home, with sense under been so good you.but from the House, with feet the soft by slippers, and spacious en-suite under theSmoke shade of banyan tree.inREASONS byPeter Peter Matkovich but a short drive Residential-quality linens andthe thoughtful TO GO LUX* linens and thoughtful under the shade of a banyan tree. by Peter Matkovich but a short drive when it Residential-quality comes to the private-as-canResidential-quality linens and thoughtful Indulge in ribs or crab burgers from the away. Going on a fun-packed African huts and elegant Parisianer you’re in a stylish linens retreat,and a world away from Indulge white sand by or the quirky, vintage Citroen resort. His witty hand-painted illustrated ininribs crab from the away. holiday hashasholid Residential-quality thoughtful Indulge ribs orOF crabburgers burgers from the H EVER away.Going Goingonona fun-packed a fun-packed holiday AanNEW WORLD touches create the ambience of elegant THAN touches create the ambience of an elegant be Honeymoon Suites and Villas with Indulge in ribs or crab burgers from the away. Going on a fun-packed holiday has touches create the ambience of an elegant ART,been SOUL AND every day. Secluded an understatement street-food van.House, Smoke with feetacross in the soft white never been soMORE good for you. style salons. As asiswith the signature kish, touches characters have a cult following Smoke House, with feet ininthe sosogood forfor you. create thewell ambience of ansense elegant Smoke House, with feet thesoft softwhite white never WELLNESS & FITNESS home-from-home, the you’re never been good you. exclusivehome-from-home, beach access. with the sense you’re REASONS TOforGO when itPage comes to the House, feet inthe the softOriginal white contemporary abounds — LUX* home-from-home, withprivate-as-can-be the sense you’re Smoke never been art so good you. sand bywith the quirky, vintage H Shirley aromatherapy experiences, n Europe, Africa andvintage now Indian sand by quirky, Citroen HCitroen home-from-home, with sense you’re sand bythe the quirky, vintage Citroen H Walala's in a stylish retreat, athe world away from The spacious next-generation A NEW WORLD OF THAN EVER Honeymoon Suites and Villas with excluin a stylish retreat, a world away from Camille stand-out pop art is the sand bystreet-food the quirky, vintageplans Citroen H ininnovative a stylish retreat, a world away from ART, SOUL AND MO therapies fromisaway Carita Haute van. Ocean. There areinto always afoot ART, SOUL AND MORE in a stylish retreat, a world from FLAVOUR AND FLAIR street-food van. every day. Secluded an understatement Original contemporary art abounds — WELLNESS & FITNESS ART, SOUL AND MORE sive beach access. LUX* Me spa tunes visitors the unmistakeable bold, bright backdrop to street-food van. every day. Secluded is an understatement ART, SOUL AND MORE every day. Secluded isnow an understatement street-food van.next-generation Beauté in Paris have debuted — toThe wow guests in new ways — and REASONS TO every day. an understatement spacious LUX* Me Rouge. Camille Walala's stand-out pop art isLUX* theGO LU tropical landscape while bespoke Travel the world through the exciting when itSecluded comes tois the private-as-canREASONS TO GO LUX* Beach Look for Gouzo graffitis when itit comes to the private-as-canREASONS TO GO when comes to the private-as-canREASONS TO GO LUX* A NEW WORLD OF their micro-current facials genuinely this season sees new Reasons to Go FLAVOUR AND FLAIR tunes visitors the tropical landscape unmistakeable bold, bright therapies their magic ininto thatched cuisineswhen at LUX* GrandtoGaube. THAN EVER itHoneymoon comes the private-as-canby street artist, Jace, dotted around thebackdrop to AAspaNEW WORLD OF be Suites and Villas with work THAN EVER NEW WORLD OF be Honeymoon Suites and Villas with THAN EVER be Honeymoon Suites and Villas with A NEW WORLD OF work miracles. A Kérastase flagship Travel the world through the exciting cuiwhile bespoke therapies work their magic in Beach Rouge. Look for Gouzo graffitis by African huts and elegant ParisianSix restaurants and seven bars simmer LUX* unleashed. Fresh from the LUX* resort. His witty hand-painted illustrated WELLNESS & FITNESS THAN EVER be Honeymoon Suites and Villas with exclusive beach access. WELLNESS &&and FITNESS Original contemporary art abound exclusive access. WELLNESS FITNESS sines atbeach LUX* Grand Gaube. Six restauthatched African huts elegant Parisianstreet artist, Jace, dotted around the resort. style salons. As well as the signature and with South American, Turkish, Original contemporary art abounds — exclusive beach access. characters have a cult following across salon offers hair analysis and glamourd fizzexclusive WELLNESS &100 FITNESS imaginarium: G&T Club, Bento Original contemporary art abounds — pop art beach access. The spacious next-generation Original contemporary art abounds —the Camille Walala's stand-out rantsand andan seven bars simmer and fizz with Page style salons. As well as the signature ShirleyAfrica Hisand witty hand-painted illustrated characters Shirley aromatherapy experiences, French, Creole array of Asian Europe, now the Indian The spacious next-generation Camille Walala's stand-out pop art is guaranteeing bespoke treatments next isco Box and Veggie Heaven have joined the Thespacious spacious next-generation Camille Walala's stand-out pop art is the FLAVOUR AND FLAIR next-generation LUX* Me spa tunesinto visitors intoThere theCamille South American, Turkish, French, Creole The Page aromatherapy experiences, innovative have cult following across Europe, Africa unmistakeable bold, Walala's stand-out pop artbright is the innovative therapies from Carita Haute flavours.FLAVOUR INTI brings ArgentinianAND FLAIR Ocean. are aalways plans afoot LUX* Me spa tunes visitors the unmistakeable bold, bright backdrop to tobackdr FLAVOUR AND FLAIR to a pretty Essie nail bar and Murdock’s are FLAVOUR award-winning line-up of life-enhancers LUX* Me spa tunes visitors into the unmistakeable bold, bright backdrop AND FLAIR and an array of Asian flavours. INTI brings therapies from Carita Haute Beauté in Paris and now the Indian Ocean. There are always Beauté in LUX* Paris have now debuted — while tropical landscape bespoke Peruvian delicacies andworld wines to Travel the through the exciting Me spa tunes visitors into the to wow guests in new ways — and Beach Rouge. Look for Gouzo gra unmistakeable bold, bright backdrop to tropical landscape while bespoke Travel the world through the exciting Beach Rouge. Look for Gouzo graffitis offor London barbershop. The fitness elMauritius that includes Café LUX*, ICI ice-creams, tropical landscape while bespoke Travel the world through the exciting ArgentinianPeruvian delicacies and drinks have now debuted — their micro-current plans afoot to wow guests in new ways — Beach Rouge. Look for Gouzo graffitis their micro-current facials genuinely the first time. Pulsing this season sees new Reasons to Go therapies work their magic in thatched cuisines at LUX* Grand Gaube. tropical landscape while bespoke Travel the world through the exciting by street artist, Jace, dotted around Beach Rouge. Look for Gouzo graffitis therapies work their magic in thatched cuisines at LUX* Grand Gaube. by street artist, Jace, dotted around thethe facilities some of first the most d, Phone Home, Message inelegant Bottle and to Mauritius forfrom the time. advanced Pulsing to miracles. facials genuinely work miracles. A Kérastase and this season sees new Reasons to Go work AAfrican Kérastase flagship therapies worktheir their magic inthatched thatched to Latincuisines American music lateseven cuisines atare LUX* Grand Gaube. LUX* unleashed. Fresh from the LUX* by street artist, Jace, dotted around huts and ParisianSix restaurants and bars simmer therapies work magic in resort. His witty hand-painted illu at LUX* Grand Gaube. by street artist, Jace, dotted around the African huts and elegant ParisianSix restaurants and seven bars simmer His witty hand-painted Latin American music from late afternoon flagship salon offers hair analysis and glamour resort. LUX* unleashed. Fresh from theillustrated LUX* iminonwards, the Indian Ocean. Switched-on Cinema Paradiso. salon offers hair analysis and glamourafternoon there’s an inspired imaginarium: G&T 100 Club, Bento African huts and elegant ParisianSix restaurants and seven bars simmer resort. His witty hand-painted illustrated style salons. As well as the signatureresort. His characters and fizz with American, Turkish, haveBento a cult following ac African huts As and elegant ParisianSix restaurants andSouth seven barsDJ-soundtrack simmer witty illustrated aginarium: G&T 100 Club, Box and onwards, an inspired guaranteeing bespoke treatments next style salons. well asasnext the signature and fizz South American, Turkish, guaranteeing bespoke treatments characters ahand-painted cult following across DJ-soundtrack atwith thethere’s Ceviche and Pisco Boxto and Veggie Heavenhave have joined the style salons. As well the signature and fizz with South American, Turkish, characters have a cult following across Shirley Page aromatherapy experiences, French, Creole and an array of Asian Europe, Africa and now the Indian salons. As well asand the Murdock’s signature and fizz with South American, Turkish, characters have a cult following across Veggie Heaven have joined award-winat the Ceviche andan Pisco a pretty Essie nail bar of a prettystyle Essie nail bar and Murdock’s Bar, where the namesake specialities are Shirley Page aromatherapy experiences, award-winning line-up of life-enhancers French, Creole and arrayBar, of where Asiantothe Europe, Africa and now thetheIndian Shirley Page aromatherapy experiences, French, Creole andbrings anarray array ofAsian Asian Europe, Africa and now the Indian innovative therapies from Carita Haute flavours. INTI ArgentinianOcean. There are always plans afo Shirley Page aromatherapy experiences, French, Creole and an of ning line-up of life-enhancers that includes namesake specialities are expertly prepared London barbershop. The fitness facilities AfricaICI andice-creams, now the Indian of Londoninnovative barbershop. The fitness expertlyflavours. preparedINTI in front of you. Feel that includesEurope, Café LUX*, therapies from Carita Haute brings ArgentinianOcean. There are always plans afoot innovative therapies from Carita Haute flavours. INTI brings ArgentinianOcean. There are always plans afoot Beauté inmost Paris have now debuted Peruvian delicacies and wines to Café LUX*, ice-creams, Phone Home, intofront of you. Feel transported to the are some of the advanced in Haute the Indian 08/03/2018 — 12:29 to wow guests in new ways — and facilities are some of the most innovative therapies from Carita transported theINTI Aegean for seafood, flavours. brings ArgentinianPhone Message inICI Bottle and plans Ocean. There are always afoot Beauté in Paris haveadvanced now debuted — Home, Peruvian delicacies and winesmeats, to mezze toMessage wow guests in new ways —Paradiso. and in Bottle and Cinema Aegean for seafood, grilled Ocean. Switched-on wellbeing programmes Beauté in Paris have now debuted — Peruvian delicacies and wines to their micro-current facials genuinely Mauritius for the first time. Pulsing to wow guests in new ways — and in the Indian Ocean. Switched-on grilled meats, mezze and the finest this season sees new Reasons to Go Cinema Paradiso. Beauté in Paris havefacials now debuted — Peruvian andtime. wines to to wow guests innew newReasons ways —toand their micro-current genuinely Mauritiusdelicacies for the first Pulsing this season sees Go their micro-current facials genuinelyflagshipthis Mauritius for thefirst firsttime. time. Pulsing work miracles. A Kérastase to Latin American music from late thisseason season seesnew new Reasons to Gofrom the L LUX* unleashed. their facials genuinely Mauritius for the Pulsing sees Reasons toFresh Go workmicro-current miracles. A Kérastase flagship to Latin American music from late LUX* unleashed. Fresh from the LUX*


worldtravellermagazine.com Your passport to the Middle East's first fully bookable travel inspiration website

Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine by heading online to read more inspirational and exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute hotel and holiday features

Dream Read Click Book


Weekends Staycations and short-haul escapes

Photo ŠMarco Pinarelli

Levantine banquet Food plays a vital role in Lebanese culture, with mealtimes often stretching for hours. the cuisine is a delicious mixture of influences from the Ottomans (who favoured stuffed meat and vegetables, turkish coffee and baklava), to the French (sweet pastries) and those from the Far east (dried fruits and spices), yet it is always distinctly Lebanese. Discover the best places to eat in the capital, such as Liza beirut (pictured), and a whole lot more, in our mini-break guide‌

World Traveller 65


MINI BREAK Pigeon Rocks at RaouchĂŠ

Your guide to: Beirut Lebanon’s engaging capital is a destination where history meets hedonism in the most delightful way Words: Claire MalColM

A

n intoxicating amalgamation of chaos, charm and contradiction, Beirut has plenty to entice you time and time again. Fronted by the warm waters of the Mediterranean Sea and embraced by rugged mountains, it has been a site of historic and trading interest since Roman colonial times, through to the post-Ottoman French Mandate era and its emergence from 15 years of brutal civil war strife. An acknowledged hub of intellectual and cultural advancement, a visit today exposes its many sides to curious travellers, from decrepit shell-scarred grand mansions in and around the former Green Line, to a profusion of must-see museums, and the shiny new streets of design-centric Downtown Beirut, which lures creative types with its dynamic artistic community and mesmerising after-dark scene. 66 World Traveller

The buzzy Downtown area


beirut

WALK THIS WAY

Plan BEY

Culture beat The city’s original cultural heartland, Hamra, has been home to intellectuals and artists since the late 1950s. Meander through the gorgeous grounds of American University of Beirut and visit its archaeological museum; stroll along Hamra Street and lose yourself among the shelves of its many bookshops; or take your pick of the bustling local café scene for stimulating cultural conversation. aub.edu.lb End of an era Less frenetic but equally fascinating, Achrafiyeh’s neighbourhood charm lies in its back streets where former grand homes lay hidden behind high walls and overgrown creepers. In plain sight, and an architectural stunner, the 19th Sursock Palace is reserved for private events, but a peek through the gates is free. Check out an art-house movie at Metropolis Cinema to complete your cultural immersion. sursockpalace.com Historic snapshot Love it or loathe it, the redevelopment of the ravaged Downtown district into a chi-chi tourist-friendly locale is a major attraction. Luxury looms large amid the reimagined Beirut Souks arches, with hundreds of shops peppered with restaurants, but history lives on in the remains of the ancient Roman baths, Martyrs’ Square and the war-scarred shell of the Dome Cinema. beirutsouks.com

# travelgoals Head to the corniche at sunset on Sunday and join Beirut’s equivalent of Italy’s passeggiata, as the world and his wife stroll along the seafront promenade from Saint George Bay up to Pigeon Rocks

ARTISANS AND ATELIERS

A to Bey Support homegrown talent and visit the former industrial Mar Mikhael district where the city’s artists and designers have taken up residence. Concept store and exhibition space Plan BEY is the go-to for limited edition artworks, graffiti stickers and photo prints, and its collection of vintage repro Baalbeck Festival posters are nostalgia personified. plan-bey.com

Bag lady Sarah Beydoun’s exquisite intricately beaded statement handbags grace many a celebrity arm but this social enterprise remains true to its roots with Sarah’s Bag employing more than 200 women Eat your way around from challenged backgrounds. Visit her store the city courtesy of the on Rue du Liban. sarahsbag.com

mouthwatering street food scene, from the warm herby Artisan central delights of a zaatar-cheese A repository showcasing Lebanese breakfast manoushe at Fern artisan talent from some of the Ghattas in Gemmazyeh, to a garlic sauce and pickle-laden most remote rural areas, L’artisan post party shawarma in Hamra, du Liban is packed with ceramics, and hearty falafel wrap from the soaps, embroidery, silverware, toys acclaimed masters of all things and clothing. Located midway between chickpea, sahyoun the busy thoroughfares of Pasteur and on damascus street A man sells ka'ik bread along the corniche

Gouraud, it’s a one-stop-shop for keepsakes. lartisanduliban.com World Traveller 67


MINI BREAK CULTURAL POWERHOUSE Creative complex Luxury labels and culture co-exist at Aïshti Foundation, part of a 35,000sqm mall-meets-art destination that includes fashion boutiques, a bookshop, restaurants, cafés and a spa. A passion project housing Lebanese fashion retail magnate Tony Salamé’s contemporary art, it has featured works by a wealth of international artists including Sol LeWitt, Willem de Rooij, Cindy Sherman, Danh Vo and Giuseppe Penone. aishtifoundation.com Get experimental One of the city’s best-known contemporary cultural hubs, the two-storey, 1,500sqm non-profit Beirut Art Center displays emerging artist installations and multimedia exhibitions with a dedicated screening room, auditorium and bookshop. beirutartcenter.org Mixed mediums Founded in 2012 and located in a charming historic building, Art on 56 th, in the culturepacked Gemmayzeh district, is the place to view up-and-coming talent and a diverse selection of mediums from paint and pencil to photography, clay and digital. arton56th.com National Museum of Beirut

68 World Traveller

#

travelgoals Lebanon has spawned a global catwalkgracing line-up of top couturiers including Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad and Reem Acra. Check out the boutiques and ateliers of the Mar Mikhael neighbourhood to find the next big name

#

travelgoals Hail a super cheap service (‘servees’) shared taxi and get up close and personal with the locals by chitchatting as you whizz through the city

MAKE HISTORY Restoration beauty Located on the former Green Line, the French-inspired, Egyptian revival-styled National Museum of Beirut is an impressive sight. No less impressive is its fully restored halls that are home to archaeological artefacts spanning the country’s rich history. Make time to watch the short documentary that tells the story of how its curators saved the collection from destruction during the civil war. beirutnationalmuseum.com Grand designs A magnet for lovers of contemporary art, Sursock Museum is a masterpiece in its own right, with its façade a marriage of Venetian and Ottoman design accents, opulent marble interiors and stained glass windows harking back to the French Mandate era, when it was the private home of one of the city’s most prominent aristocrats. sursockmuseum.com Under the dome A landmark in the heart of downtown, the 19th century Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque (Blue Mosque) dominates the city skyline. Reopened in 2008 after major renovation, its sand-hued walls topped with a striking blue dome take on a golden glow in the late afternoon sun. Together, with nearby Saint George Cathedral, these two buildings represent two sides of Lebanon’s religious community.


beirut

Le Gray, Beirut

#

travelgoals A city full of storytellers, swap the local bar scene for some spoken word action at the regular open mic poetry, fiction and real-life tales evenings organised by the likes of Hakaya and held at venues such as Fade In in Mar Mikhael and Cliffhangers at L'appartement Beirut

WHERE TO STAY

Le Gray, Beirut Overlooking Martyr’s Square, Beirut’s original design hotel Le Gray remains a style leader with its modern minimalistic interiors, glass-sided swimming pool and panoramic views of the sea, city and mountains. O Monot On a mission to provide sanctuary from the energetic city beyond, O Monot is all about the zen. Conveniently located in central Saifi, the Claude Missir designed boutique property has a cool rooftop bar and a hi-tech vibe. Hotel Albergo Exuding character, Hotel Albergo is a nod to days gone by, from its teensy Art Deco lift to its beguiling Orientalist décor. A peaceful retreat in the heart of Achrafiyeh, the only chatter you’ll hear is that of its resident caged parakeets.

HOMEGROWN FLAVOUR

Farm to fork It doesn’t get any fresher than at Tawlet where chefs have direct access to local produce from the Souk El Tayeb farmers’ market on their doorstep. Home-cooked flavours are its hallmark with a different cook ruling over the kitchen every lunchtime. Learn how to prepare the perfect kibbeh at one of its regular cooking classes. soukeltayeb.com/tawlet Home run The menu at Liza Beirut is every bit as delightful as the whimsical interiors of this Achrafiyeh restaurant located in an enchanting former home, where classic Lebanese dishes get a stylish makeover. A popular order is the citrus marinated chicken with smoked green wheat or lamb meatballs. Give in to the Sunday brunch, which is the perfect opportunity to try a little bit of everything. lizabeirut.com Bon appétit French culinary influences permeate the local food scene, and for upmarket dining in sleek, chic surroundings head to Burgundy in Saifi Village. Classic and seasonal tasting options and chef’s market day menus deliver a memorable gourmet experience. burgundybeirut.com

Hotel Albergo

World Traveller 69


World traveller x dCt abu dhabi

Globes: Visions of the World

Creative journey Boost your knowledge of art and history at these interactive exhibitions taking place in Abu Dhabi and Al Ain For art enthusiasts Navigate your way through 2,500 years of world history at Louvre Abu Dhabi’s Globes: Visions of the World exhibition, which is open to the public until 2 June 2018. A compelling collection of 160 globes, rare archaeological remains, coins, fascinating scripts and prints, astrolabes, world maps and paintings, originating mainly from the collections of Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF), combine to shine a light on the common thread of humanity. As Manuel Rabaté, director of Louvre Abu Dhabi, explains: “This exhibition offers an exceptional opportunity to construct a comprehensive narrative linking astronomy, geography, religion and philosophy, by examining different symbols and representations of the Earth.” At the start, you’ll see three instruments and artworks from the 17th century: a celestial globe, a terrestrial globe and an armillary sphere, which is a model placing the Earth at the centre of the universe. Next, you will go on to explore the context in which a vision of the world has evolved 70 World Traveller

Lines and Stitches

over time, influenced by factors as diverse as mathematics and philosophy. Louvre Abu Dhabi is open on Saturday, Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday from 10am to 8pm and on Thursday and Friday from 10 am to 10pm. Special visitor hours will be in effect during Ramadan. General admission

tickets are priced at Dhs60, or Dhs30 for ages 13-22 (excluding VAT). Free for children under the age of 13. Special exhibitions are open during public hours and are free to enter with museum admission. louvreabudhabi.ae For the style set Explore the glamorous world of fashion illustration at Lines and Stitches exhibition at Al Qattara Arts Centre in Al Ain, which showcases the works of a number of talented, UAE-based fashion illustrators and designers. Open to the public until 14 June 2018, it is the result of an open call to artists, designers and illustrators and features more than 21 illustrations and eight installations that highlight the enduring nature of the art form. If you're seeking a more hands-on experience, be sure to catch the expert-led workshops taking place on Saturdays, that explore the basics of fashion illustration. This month you can get involved with Textile Printmaking on 5 May and Capsule Collection Creation on 12 May. Workshops run from 5-7pm. Call +971 3 761 8080 or email qac@tcaabudhabi.ae


1

2

Travel NoTes

My Great Escapes 6

5

Natasha Amar is a travel writer, photographer and blogger who's behind the popular website TheBohoChica.com. Here, she shares her most memorable adventures around the world 1. Seeing a blanket of snow in Hrísey, Iceland. The wintery white landscapes made me fall in love with Iceland. My favourite place was Hrísey, a remote island off the north coast, which is home to just 120 people. My friend and I spent an afternoon exploring and bumped into just one other person along the way. 2. Watching street artists in Stockholm, Sweden. When in a new city, I like to spend a few hours walking around to get a sense of what it’s really like. In Stockholm, I admired the great energy of the pedestrianised street of Drottninggatan. I always remember this amazing performer when I think of Stockholm. 3. Exploring the Po Delta in Emilia Romagna, Italy. I visited this nature reserve with a fisherman to learn about the flora and fauna. We spent the day on a fishing boat exploring the delta, islets and abandoned beaches and enjoyed an afternoon picnic of homemade pickled sardines and freshly baked bread. 4. Visiting Ushguli in Svaneti, Georgia. The highest inhabited village in Europe, Ushguli is 2,100 metres above sea level. After weeks of snow blocking the only access road, I finally got to visit. It was a happy day of slushing around in the lanes, eating warm khachapuri (a traditional dish of cheese-filled bread) with the villagers. 5. Hiking in Bornholm, Denmark. Bornholm is a Danish island in the Baltic Sea, often referred to as the sunniest part of Denmark. At the end of my second day, after hiking for eight hours, I was rewarded with this peaceful view at Hammersø Lake. Weekends 6. Soaking up the view in Oman. Last year, I spent my birthday hiking Jebel Akhdar. I made my way along the falaj (irrigation) channels, navigating the craggy peaks, steep gorges and fields surrounded by walnut trees, pomegranate bushes and olive groves, and the view from the Saiq Plateau was spectacular.

3

4

World Traveller 71


world traveller x Palazzo versace dubai

STAYCATION

Palazzo Versace Dubai The city's most opulent suites and the finest Middle Eastern fare entice you to the heart of Dubai's Culture Village this Ramadan THE DESIGN Standing proud at the heart of Culture Village, Palazzo Versace Dubai is a design icon. While its overall architectural style represents the melding of a traditional neo-classical Italian palace with Arabic architectural elements, its interiors showcase the Versace lifestyle through the eyes of artistic director Donatella Versace, with the Medusa head, the Greek key and the house’s legendary prints prominent.

THE SUITES From the spacious Executive to the dual level Imperial, the fashionable suites at Palazzo Versace Dubai epitomise grandeur and opulence. The perfect illustration of this are the two Imperial Suites, which boast an entrance hall, magnificent marble staircase, dining room, entertainment and cocktail room, plus a gym and sauna. The terrace then unveils your own private outdoor pool and garden. Spectacular.

THE FOOD Palazzo Versace Dubai welcomes the Holy Month with a gastronomic experience curated and inspired by Ramadan’s true spirit of giving and sharing. In the stylish surrounds of Enigma, a family style set menu comprised of homemade Persian cheese, roasted Persian bread and myriad other delights complements Giardino's inspired take on Middle Eastern classics and Gala Ballroom's lavish banquet.

To find out more, call +971 4 556 8888 or visit palazzoversace.ae 72 World Traveller


world traveller x kempinski hotel mall of the emirates

STAYCATION

Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates Experience fire, ice and all things nice at this alpine-inspired property The rooms Escape to a snowy setting by booking yourself into one of the hotel's coveted Aspen Ski Chalets. The generously-sized rustic abodes each feature a faux fireplace to cosy up to while admiring the sub-zero views of Ski Dubai through floor-to-ceiling windows. The hotel has 393 rooms and suites in total and each has been recently refurbished, adding a fresh touch of luxury to this famous five-star address.

The food For light bites, retreat to the grand lobby and Aspen by Kempinski, where couples can indulge in the His & Hers afternoon tea. Come nightfall, OLEA offers a contemporary take on Levantine cuisine, while a Spanish fiesta is stirred up at Salero Tapas and Bodega. Be sure to try the hotel's unforgettable signature dish – succulent slow cooked beef cheeks in demi-glace, created by executive chef Sudqi Naddaf.

The ACTIVITIes Be pampered at Softouch Spa, stick to your fitness goals at the gym and be beautified at Maison de Joelle salon. Plus, during the summer, guests staying for a certain number of nights can take advantage of great rates, with passes to major Dubai attractions such as Magic Planet, Orbi Dubai/iFly Dubai, Little Explorers and Ski Dubai. Check into a chalet and you'll even be assigned your own personal ski trainer.

To find out more, call +971 4 341 0000 or visit kempinski.com/dubai 74 World Traveller


GREAT ESCAPE TO A WINTER WONDERLAND Head to Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates to experience an awe inspiring backdrop of Ski Dubai slopes and the adventure of Magic Planet. Have a fantastic summer experience all in one place.

Stay between 1-5 nights and save up to 25% of the best available rate. The longer you stay, the more you get.

www.kempinski.com/dubai Call +971 4 341 0000, Email: reservations.malloftheemirates@kempinski.com or contact your preferred travel agent for reservations


world traveller x dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & SuiteS

STAYCATION

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites For a longer stay, make yourself at home in a stylish suite overlooking Dubai Marina The rooms If you're planning on staying in Dubai for a while, or simply appreciate the convenience of having your own kitchen, the stylish suites at this four-star property in Dubai Marina may be just what you're looking for. There are one-, two- and three-bedroom suites available, each featuring a modern kitchen and a sleek marble bathroom with an oversized tub. Room service is available around the clock.

The food Jump-start you day with a cup of coffee and a pastry at Counter Culture CafĂŠ, which, like all the apartments, offers free Wi-Fi so you can stay well connected to the wider world. For hearty British fare with a twist (and a quick game of pool), The Croft is the place to go. On the 52nd floor, Observatory Bar & Grill is where you should go for classic dishes and crafted beverages, with panoramic views of the waterfront.

The ACTIVITIes Your fitness regime needn't suffer, as all guests enjoy access to the fitness centre. When you want to unwind, head to Saray Spa, which offers a range of pampering treatments, such as the signature Saray Arabic Coffee Awakener, which includes a body scrub, mask and massage. Get out and explore Dubai, including Jumeirah Beach Residence, Dubai Media City and Internet City, all of which are just a short stroll away.

To find out more, call +971 4 319 4000 or visit dubaimarriottharbourhotel.com 76 World Traveller


C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour

Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.


world traveller x Jw MarrIott MarQUIS dUBaI

STAYCATION

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai Stay in this landmark hotel and enjoy the luxury of choice The rooms The world's tallest five-star hotel, JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an architectural gem with ample space to welcome guests from around the globe. Its 1,608 guestrooms and suites have luxurious finishings – think marble bathrooms with oversized tubs – with free Wi-Fi and views of the skyline or Dubai Water Canal. Families can book a suite and spread out in two separate living and sleeping areas.

The food Foodies will find plenty to satisfy the appetite at this property, which has 15 award-winning restaurants and bars. For perfectly prepared cuts of meat, Prime68 steakhouse is sure to impress while, for authentic Indian fare, Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar is the talk of the town – the street food style plates are a great sampler. If Japanese is more your flavour, Izakaya is a casual cool setting for sharing tasty bites.

The ACTIVITIes The hotel is close to many of Dubai's top attractions, but there are lots of perks that'll tempt you to linger inside the hotel. Take a dip in the sparkling outdoor swimming pool or, for a spot of pampering, head to the opulent Saray Spa, which features 17 treatment rooms and the UAE's only Dead Sea flotation pool. Try The Saray Golden Hammam, which includes a decadent skin massage using 24-karat gold.

To find out more, call +971 4 414 0000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 78 World Traveller


Service and detail that shape your journey. Immerse in the luxury of rich experiences at the JW Penthouse Suite and Marquis Penthouse Suite, spread across two levels of impeccably designed space with a touch of traditional Arabic design. Each 624sqm suite features two separate bedrooms with two separate living rooms. Additional benefits include complimentary airport transfers, private check-in and check-out and access to the award-winning Executive Lounge on the 37th floor. Enjoy celebratory dining in more than 15 restaurants and bars, and pampering at the luxurious Saray Spa.

JW MarriottÂŽ MarquisÂŽ Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000 | jwmarrottmarquisdubai.com


Welcome to IRELAND VISA-FREE

FOR UAE NATIONALS

Book at dnatatravel.com call 800 DNATA (36282) or speak to us in-store Download our app

| Follow us on


BRought to you By

Reader offers Great deals to get you packing

gRaB youR passpoRt With four fantastic offers to book now (page 82), a selection of tempting global hotel deals (page 83) including at Banyan tree phuket (pictured), and dreamy weekend escapes (page 84), let our exclusive offers transport you somewhere new World Traveller 81


3

the fantaStIc fOUr

1

2 4

1

SOUth afrIca

tHe micHelAngelo Hotel A Rennaisance-style hotel overlooking the bustling Nelson Mandela Square in Johannesburg’s upscale Sandton neighbourhood.

3 nights starting from USD 696 per person

Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and a 2.5 hour open vehicle safari in Pilanesburg National Park, with return transfers to the park. Offer: Complimentary brunch at Bush Camp during the safari. Valid from: Now until 30 Jun 2018. 82 World Traveller

2

Germany

le méridien municH Featuring bright and spacious rooms, this city centre hotel is perfectly located to explore the Bavarian capital’s charms.

3 nights starting from USD 523 per person

Includes: Stay in a superior room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Offer: 15% discount on room rate. Valid from: Now until 30 Sept 2018.

3

Italy

4

ZanZIbar

ArmAni Hotel milAno This five-star luxury hotel is located in the famed fashion district.

tHe residence ZAnZibAr An all-villa sanctuary cocooned in tropical greenery located on a white sand beach.

Includes: Stay in an Armani Deluxe Room with return airport transfers. Offer: 15% discount on room rate. Valid from: Now until 30 June 2018.

Includes: Stay in a Luxury Garden Pool Villa with breakfast and dinner daily, plus return airport transfers. Offer: Stay three nights and receive an additional night free. Valid from: Now until 30 Jun 2018.

3 nights starting from USD 1,180 per person

4 nights starting from USD 799 per person


dnata travel offers

malaySIa

tHe st. regis lAngkAwi

4 nights starting from USD 835 per person

Includes: Stay in a Rainforest Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Offer: Stay three nights and receive an additional night free. Valid from: Now until 30 Jun 2018.

USa

Hilton orlAndo bonnet creek

7 nights starting from USD 673 per person

Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with return airport transfers. Offer: Stay six nights and receive an additional night for free. Valid from: Now until 20 Dec 2018.

mOnacO

Hotel metropole monte cArlo

3 nights starting from USD 989 per person

Includes: Stay in a Deluxe room with return airport transfers (when booked 14 days in advance). Offer: 10% discount on room rate. Valid from: Now until 28 June 2018.

arOUnD the WOrlD

thaIlanD

bAnyAn tree pHuket

3 nights starting from USD 506 per person

Includes: Breakfast daily, plus an additional 20% off food and beverages, 20% discount on massages at the spa and 35% off golf green fees at Laguna Golf Phuket. Offer: Stay three nights in a Banyan Pool villa with breakfast. Valid from: Now until 31 Oct 2018.

SpaIn

meliรก mAdrid princesA

3 nights starting from USD 384 per person

Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Offer: 15% discount on room rate. Valid from: Now until 30 June 2018.

SOUth afrIca AHA ivory tree gAme lodge

Banyan Tree Phuket AHA Ivory Tree Game Lodge

Hyatt Centric Levent Istanbul Hotel

3 nights starting from USD 1,090 per person

Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, plus return airport transfers. Offer: Two game viewing activities per day in the Pilanesburg National Park. Valid from: Now until 30 Jun 2018.

SrI lanka

AnAntArA peAce HAven tAngAlle resort

3 nights starting from USD 473 per person

Meliรก Madrid Princesa

Includes: Stay in a Premier Ocean View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night free. Valid from: Now until 30 Jun 2018.

tUrkey

HyAtt centric levent istAnbul Hotel

3 nights starting from USD 272 per person

Hotel Metropole Monte Carlo

Includes: Breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Offer: 15% discount on Standard room rate and complimentary upgrade to next available room category. Valid from: Now until 31 Oct 2018. World Traveller 83


dnata travel offers

Le Royal Méridien Abu Dhabi

WeekenD eScapeS

Shangri La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa Hotel Al Waha Yas Island Rotana, Abu Dhabi

Uae

le royAl méridien Abu dHAbi 1 night starting from USD 147 per person Special offer: 45% discount on room rate and one child aged below 12 years stays free. Includes: Stay in a Corner City View Room with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 30 June 2018. yAs islAnd rotAnA, Abu dHAbi 1 night starting from USD 197 per person Special offer: 30% discount on room rate; two children aged below 12 stays free, with guaranteed interconnecting rooms; 4pm late checkout; 15% discount on food, beverages and spa. Includes: Stay in a Family Room with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 31 May 2018. mövenpick Hotel ibn bAttutA gAte, dubAi 1 night starting from USD 150 per person Special offer: Receive two complimentary tickets to Dubai Parks and Resorts, one park ticket per day per room per night. Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 30 Sept 2018. Hilton Al Ain Hotel 1 night starting from USD 185 per person Special offer: 10% discount on room rates and two children aged below 12 stay free. Includes: Stay in a Junior Suite with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 30 Sept 2018. How to book

84 World Traveller

swissôtel living Al gHurAir dubAi 1 night starting from USD 115 per person Special offer: 40% discount on room rate; two children aged below 12 stay free; 20% discount on food, beverages and spa. Includes: Stay in a One Bedroom Apartment with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 30 Sept 2018. rodA beAcH resort And spA, dubAi 1 night starting from USD 109 per person Special offer: 10% discount on room rate and complimentary room upgrade to One Bedroom Apartment City View with breakfast. Includes: Stay in a Studio Room with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 31 May 2018.

Hilton Al Ain Hotel

Roda Beach Resort and Spa, Dubai Swissôtel Living Al Ghurair Dubai

Oman

sHAngri lA bArr Al JissAH resort And spA Hotel Al wAHA 3 nights starting from USD 346 per person Includes: Stay in a Superior Room and return airport transfers. Offer: Complimentary upgrade to next available room (not applicable to One Bedroom Suites); OMR 20 credit towards any activity available at Watercooled Powered By Uniboats centre, once per stay; OMR 10 credit towards any food and beverage outlet, once per stay; complimentary pony or camel ride for up to two children, once per stay; 25% discount on spa treatments. Valid from: Now until 30 Sept 2018.

By calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666

Mövenpick Hotel Ibn Battuta Gate, Dubai

By stepping into a dnata outlet or by visiting dnatatravel.com

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.


Email us at contactcentre@dnata.com • Call +971 4 316 6666


online

Happy

Photo by Igor Brautovic,Dubrovnik Tourist Board

get click

#worldtraveller What you’re reading

Pantarul restaurant, Dubrovnik

A selection of the top stories you’ve been clicking on… From its Baroque buildings to its contemporary art attractions, you're eating up our locals' guide to Dubrovnik. Our shopping in Stockholm 'how to' is hitting a high note, thanks to Behnaz Aram's round-up of boutiques, from the highstreet to the high-end We love giving you a first look at hotels, and our peek inside the new look Mandarin

Twiddling your thumbs between issues? Simply visit worldtravellermagazine.com for even more travel inspo, and carry on the conversation on our social channels

1

2

Knightsbridge Suite The lobby

3

Follow us on Instagram @dnataworldtraveller to double tap our dreamy destination shots and tag us in your images for a chance to feature on our wall. Find us on Facebook @worldtravellermagazine and stay up to date with travel stories as we post them.

Oriental Hyde Park London is one of

Tweet with us @WT_Magazine – make the most of your 280-character allowance by sharing your best travel moments with us.

our most clicked articles

Living room, Turret Suite

The hoT LisT Our dedicated section is home to exclusive travel ideas that will have you reaching for your passport

sTaycaTioNs Squeeze a mini break into your busy schedule at these top hotels on your doorstep

NoW WiN Win a two-night stay for two at Palazzo Versace Dubai, including breakfast at Giardino – on the website now!

Travel inspiraTion aT your fingerTips

available on your desktop, tablet and smartphone World Traveller 87


Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

Oriental Penthouse Suite Mandarin Oriental Miami

There is no better vantage point from which to drink in the twinkling splendour of Miami's exclusive Brickell Key than the Mandarin Oriental's top-floor Oriental Penthouse Suite. Its full-length balcony first beckons you at sundown when, drink in hand, you'll watch the sun slip into the ocean amid an ever-changing pastel palette. And then again, after dark, when yachts float by, soundtracked by the party-hard city readying itself for action. But calmness prevails inside your suite, particularly beside the fireplace and piano.

88 World Traveller


Enjoy extraordinary events #InAbuDhabi! Abu Dhabi is an eventful destination with an action-packed calendar featuring international music, heritage and cultural festivals, sports, gourmet, high profile business conferences and vibrant trade fairs

JUN 2018

Abu Dhabi Summer Season Jun - Aug

OCT

JUL

SEP

Liwa Date Festival

OCT

Abu Dhabi International Boat Show Oct 17 - 20

N OV

Abu Dhabi Art Nov 14 - 17

D EC

N OV

Formula 2 Powerboat Championship Nov 22 - 23

D EC

D EC

D EC

D EC

NYE Countdown Village

Al Dhafra Family Village Dec 13 - 17

MAR

FEB

Red Bull Air Race Championship

ITU World Triathlon Abu Dhabi 2019

ADIPEC 2018 Nov 12 - 15

N OV

2018 Formula 1 Etihad Airways AD Grand Prix Nov 22 - 25

D EC

Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival

D EC

Dar Al Zain Festival

Abu Dhabi Food Festival

Taste of Abu Dhabi

D EC

National Day Celebrations Dec 2

N OV

Abu Dhabi Classics 2018-2019 Oct - May 2019

Al Ain Cultural Programme Oct - Apr 2019

Traditional Handicrafts Festival

ADIHEX 2018 Oct 2 - 6

Al Ain Book Fair

OCT

N OV

N OV

OCT

Liwa International Festival – Mureeb Dune

D EC

Mubadala World Tennis Championship

Al Dhafra Festival

JA N 2 0 1 9

Abu Dhabi HSBC Golf Championship

MAR

Abu Dhabi Festival 2019

JA N

Sultan Bin Zayed Heritage Festival 2019 Jan - Feb

MAR

Mother of the Nation Festival 2019

abudhabievents Available on

abudhabievents.ae


Inspiration. Expertly crafted. Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular Meeting Spaces.

JW MarriottÂŽ MarquisÂŽ Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000 | jwmarrottmarquisdubai.com

World Traveller - May'18  
World Traveller - May'18