World Traveller - August'19

INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 136 | AUGUST 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Set sail on a family-friendly tour of Greece’s Ionian islands

Produced in Dubai Production City

IBIZA SWEDEN READER OFFERS STAYCATIONS

Our pick of...

Palm Jumeirah

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Welcome note

Summer’s in full swing and whether you’re leaving on a jet plane, packing your overnight bag for a staycation (or three) or already eyeing your next trip, we’ve got a whole load of inspiration inside this issue.

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher General Manager David Wade Managing Editor Faye Bartle faye@hotmedia.me Content Writers Habiba Azab Sophia Dyer

If it’s always been a dream to holiday on a luxury yacht, turn to page 50 to read Jeremy Lazell’s story of sailing Greece’s Ionian islands with his family in tow. It’s a trip he decided to make following a ‘life’s too short’ revelation. If you’re in the mood to throw caution to the wind, then perhaps it’s time you sampled the charms of Ibiza (it’s family friendly now, p38). Or maybe you can plump for a total change of scenery in Sweden (p40), where Scandi cities and rugged countryside compete for attention.

You don’t need to venture far to have an excellent time, however. We shine a light on Dubai’s very own Palm Jumeirah (p20) and all the wonderful things to see and do there. From spreading out in a plush suite, to cooling off in sparkling swimming pools and ticking the very best experiences off your list – this man-made island never fails to impress.

Happy travels, Faye Bartle

FIVE THINGS WE LEARNED THIS ISSUE: 1

Jaipur is nicknamed The Pink City due to its uniform terracotta colour pallete that was established during the 19th century, p8

2

No longer just a go to party hot-spot, Ibiza serves up a veritable family-affair, p34

3

In Sweden, the concept of fika means it's customary to share a cup of coffee and a cake with friends every day, p40

Win!

A two night stay at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort in Duabi, p75

Art Director Kerri Bennett Senior Designer Hiral Kapadia Senior Advertising Manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmedia.me Production Manager Muthu Kumar

4

INSPIRED BY

Photography credits: Getty Images and Phocal Media Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

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At Astir Beach in Athens, the designated archeological site of Temple Apollo Zoste sits just a stone's throw from the beach, p54

5

Kingdom of Perfumes in Bahrain is the place to go for an bespoke mix of your perfect aroma, p56 worldtravellermagazine.com 3

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Contents August 2019

8

TRENDING DESTINATIONS

regulars 8

13

17

74

76

This month's go-to places include lively summer hot-spot Seattle, and historical pink city, Jaipur.

Test the waters of these new luxury hotels, or embark on a culinary journey. Plus, we shine a light on family-friendly breaks.

Make sure you leave a positive mark on the places you visit by swotting up on the principles of responsible tourism.

Head online for exclusive content and, better still, the chance to win a two-night stay at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort.

Check into The Kimpton Fitzroy London Hotel's Corner Suite for oodles of 19th century drama and class.

TRENDING DESTINATIONS

GLOBETROTTER

THE KNOWLEDGE

DIGITAL DOWNLOAD

SUITE DREAMS

worldtravellermagazine.com 5

CONTENTS

features

20

34

40

Get the skinny on the best suites, restaurants, pools, spas and experiences on this manmade island of wonder.

Amanda Hyde revisits her 90s party haunt, Ibiza, for a family affair with husband and kids in tow.

Liz Edwards gets to know both sides of Sweden in just one trip, from the chic city to the rugged countryside.

PICK OF THE PALM

BABY BLUES

SCANDI CRUSH

46

THE LONG YACHT SUMMER

Jeremy Lazell whisks his family away on a glamorous cruise around Greece's Ionian islands.

34 IBIZA

weekends 54

CULTURE TRIP

Head to Athens for a steady line-up of historical feats and cultural hot-spots.

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56

62

70

Peel back the layers of this fascinating Pearl of the Gulf.

Feel in need of a break?

We have a few more reasons to book a weekend escape.

It's time we sent you packing. Choose your next adventure from our exclusive offers.

A LONG WEEKEND IN BAHRAIN

STAYCATIONS

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Relax in the comfort of our top-quality rooms, suites and pool villas, with glorious beaches, exhilarating water activities, relaxed beachfront dining, local culture and endless entertainment just moments away. Meanwhile, kids can go wild at our sensational waterparks and at our fully-supervised, multi-age Kids’ Club.

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month

Seattle

It's an excellent time to visit Seattle, with its sunny weather and variety of outdoor events. In August alone, there's Seattle Art Fair, Watershed (a country music festival) an air show, car show, film festival, and even a salmon festival.

Famous for its coffee culture – the world’s first Starbucks opened here at the popular Pike Place Market – this Washington city is also a great spot for whale watching around the San Juan Islands.

Highlights 1 Uncover a host of oddities, including shrunken heads and washed-up mermaids, at the century-old Ye Olde Curiosity Shop. 2 Take to the sky with a scenic seaplane tour and experience the Emerald City from above. 3 Go north and pay a visit to the 18-foot-tall stone troll that lives under Aurora Avenue Bridge. With any luck, he shall let you pass.

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Tunis

Where else can you visit the Sahara Desert, the beach and some of the world’s most impressive Roman ruins all in one day? Tunisia is expecting a record number of tourists this year. Its capital, Tunis, is located on the Mediterranean coast and is home to some of North Africa’s most beautiful beaches. Here, you can discover a land brimming with atmospheric souks, aromatic spices and incredible local cuisine.

Highlights 1 Tuck into a traditional lamb with apricots dish at the popular homegrown restaurant El Ali on Rue Jamaa Ez Zitouna. 2 Pay a trip to Zitouna Mosque. Built in 732 CE, its prayer hall is a dazzling sight. 3 The largest Roman amphitheatre in Africa, El Jem (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), is about a two-hour drive away.

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Jaipur

Live like a Maharaja in the majestic city of Jaipur. The capital of India’s Rajasthan state, the Pink City (a moniker inspired by the trademark colour of its buildings) evokes a regal ambience – it was founded and ruled by the royal family until 1971. Visit the opulent City Palace complex and explore its courtyards, gardens and museums, or venture into the surrounding former palaces, some of which are now converted to five-star hotels.

Highlights 1 Drink a traditional masala chai at Sahu Tea Shop – one of the most famous places for a brew in the city. 2 Head to Hanuman Ji Temple to soak up the peaceful ambience and to see the mischievous monkeys that call the place home. 3 Before your time in the city is up, visit Jantar Mantar, the world’s largest sundial – it's one of five such observatories in West-Central India built by Jai Singh.

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Larnaca

It’s peak summertime on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus. Just a four-hour flight from Dubai, it is an enduringly popular place to escape the desert heat. Fly into Larnaca, a beautiful town on the coast with long stretches of golden sand. Next, head further inland to explore the modern downtown district, historic Old Town and atmospheric Turkish Quarter for the perfect blend of relaxation and activity.

Highlights 1 Take a trip to Larnaca Salt Lake and see its dry shores strewn with pink flamingos. 2 Seasoned scuba divers can venture below the surface to see the Zenobia Shipwreck, a ferry that sank in 1980 – you'll find it just off the fishing harbour. 3 Got kids in tow?

Hire a car and make the one-hour drive to Nicosia's Fairytale Museum, which brings the magical world of fairy tales to life.

worldtravellermagazine.com 11

Globetrotter AUGUST

XXXXXXXXXXXXX

Be informed, be inspired, be there

Photo: InterContinental Hayman Island Resort

WE ARE FAMILY Jetting off for some quality time together? The newly-opened InterContinental Hayman Island Resort beckons with its mix of luxury and fun.

Tucked away in The Whitsunday Islands, at the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, this idyllic resort offers a host of family adventures, from swimming with turtles to group meditation classes. For large broods, the Three Bedroom Hayman Beach House delivers the ultimate private island holiday experience. worldtravellermagazine.com 13

Anantara Villa Padierna Palace Benahavis Marbella Taj Rishikesh Resort Resort & Spa, India

FAM TRIPS

One of the busiest months of the year for family travel, we've rounded up three options for last-minute breaks...

1 FOR MUSICAL FANS Hotel Grand Elysée, Hamburg: Opt for the musical package here, and you'll receive tickets to Disney's The Lion King show at the nearby theatre.

NEW HOTELS

Fresh places to stay

Race you to these newly-opened hotels and resorts

DREAM

LOCATION

OUR PICK OF THE

ROOMS

WHY WE

LOVE IT

KEMPINSKI HOTEL HANGZHOU

ANANTARA VILLA PADIERNA PALACE

WALDORF ASTORIA MALDIVES ITHAAFUSHI

China's southeast coast has natural beauty aplenty – the Grand Canal stretching from Beijing to Hangzhou is a feat to behold.

Amid rolling hills overlooking the Med, Anantara Villa Padierna Palace Benahavis Marbella Resort shines on Spain’s southern coast.

Accessible only by yacht, you can expect classic Maldivian magic: white sand beaches, crystal clear waters and breathtaking vistas.

The Grand Canal View Room has serene views and a lush rainforest shower, while the Executive Room includes access to the lounge.

The Presidential Villa sleeps two adults and one child, and has a private swimming pool, rooftop terrace, and butler service during the day.

The ultra-exclusive Ithaafushi Private Island has five bedrooms, two villas, five pools, and an entertainment centre – a private sandy island paradise.

For equal amounts of modern luxury and historic significance on your doorstep. Plus authentic Hangzhou cuisine at Zi Chen Chinese Restaurant.

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Home to 1,200 original artworks, this gallery hotel has a private beach club, spa, and three golf courses, with Spanish cuisine on tap.

Foodies are spoilt for choice with 11 dining concepts to discover.

We rate Terra where you can dine amid the treetops in one of seven bamboo nests.

2 FOR PAMPERING JA Manafaru, Maldives: Check into The Royal Residence and dial down the pace together with the Mum & Me and Father & Son spa treatments.

3 FOR CITY TOTS Mandarin Oriental, New York: Offering bespoke tours of the Big Apple, and an awesome new line-up of interactive books before bedtime.

GLOBETROTTER

CULINARY JOURNEYS Got a taste for adventure? Set off in pursuit of these culinary happenings on our radar this month CHEF COLIN CLAGUE AT AQUA, COCO BODO HITHI, MALDIVES RĂźya Dubai's award-winning executive chef is bringing his signature Turkish cuisine to Maldivian shores. His six-course tasting menu will showcase Anatolian flavours with a local twist, served at overwater restaurant Aqua on 11 and 15 August, with a special masterclass on 14 August. cococollection.com

CLONAKILLA TRUFFLE DINNER, EMIRATES ONE&ONLY, WOLGAN VALLEY This scenic resort in Oz has a mouthwatering line-up of foodie events taking place during its winter period, including a truffleinspired degustation dinner prepared by executive chef Nancy Kinchela on the 16 and 17 August. oneandonlyresorts.com

A dish by chef Colin Clague at AQUA, Coco Bodo Hithi, Maldives

NETSU, MANDARIN ORIENTAL JUMEIRA, DUBAI Let the hotel's new restaurant Netsu introduce you to the traditional

Japanese cooking technique of Warayak. Originating from the Kochi Prefecture in Shikoku, the chefs grill food using dry straw instead of charcoal for a unique flavour and taste, with soaring flames bringing the drama. mandarinoriental.com

worldtravellermagazine.com 15

GLOBETROTTER

INTERVIEW WITH...

Pie Aerts The Dutch photographer who has travelled far and wide, capturing shots of local people in the name of art, tells us how he does it

Photo credit: Brief encounter with a shepherds' daughter in the outskirts of Pushkar, India, Rajasthan - Pushkar, Photo Š 2019 Pie Aerts. All rights reserved.

Be prepared. When I travel to a new destination I do my research by looking up work that has been shot by other photographers. It helps me figure out which parts of a city or country can offer an authentic experience.

As soon as I arrive I start exploring with my camera inside my bag. I search for street markets or places where local people hang out. Not a single guide book in the world will beat the tips of local people.

The most magical moments happen when you go with the flow. That is what travel is all about for me.

A destination that has changed me is India. It’s a place that puts things in perspective; going there has altered my outlook on life.

Shoot as much as you can. Always carry a camera, as practise makes perfect. But remember that photography requires patience and persistence, so enjoy the ride.

Tales from the Roads Less Traveled by Pie Aerts, published by teNeues and MENDO. Avaliable at teneues.com and mendo.nl

ON OUR RADAR Keeping Omani culture alive, author Azhaar Ahmed has written the perfect bedtime story for kids visiting Jabal Akhdar.

Tales from Jabal Akhdar: The Mountain That Touches The Stars is available to all those bedding down at Alila Jabal Akhdar Oman. alilahotels.com

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Ever wondered what a holiday in 2119 would look like? Hilton's Future-Gazing report give us an idea. From under-the-skin microchips modifying how the hotel looks to you, to holographic personal trainers and 3D-printed dinners, the future looks bright.

Like father, like son. How cute are these matching swim shorts? Emirates airline has teamed up with sustainable fashion brand Joseph & Alexander to create The Emirates Landing Collection. The eco-friendly garments are avaliable to buy at emirates. store.com

Luxury leather brand MCM has released its neon Summer Travel Capsule collection just in time for your next trip. And the bright colours are a surefire way to keep the holiday spirit alive long after you've returned home. mcmworldwide.com

KNOW-HOW

The Knowledge HOW TO...

Have a holiday that gives back Make sure you leave a positive mark on the places you visit by swotting up on the principles of responsible tourism. Here’s what you need to know…

Not to be confused with sustainable travel, the responsible tourism movement is all about empowering travellers to make a positive contribution to destinations around the world. “It aims to help create better places for people to live in and better places for people to visit,” says responsible tourism expert Dr Harold Goodwin (haroldgoodwin.info). “This means taking action to help make tourism more sustainable by maximising the positive economic, social and environmental impact of your trips.”

Here's how...

CHECK IT BEFORE YOU WRECK IT “Before setting off, the most important thing to do is to learn about the local issues, whether it’s a lack of employment or water shortages… get informed,” says Harold. Once you have the scoop on the hot topics of the area you can tweak your plans, if needed. For instance, you could spend some of your holiday time volunteering for a worthy cause.

At Anantara Dhigu Resort in the Maldives, you can join the Coral Adoption Programme and help care for coral in the resort’s reef while at Atholl Palace in Perthshire in the UK, you can plant your very own tree on the grounds. Being responsible, however, can even be as simple as making sure you’re up to date on all your vaccinations and have a good travel health insurance policy in place.

By taking control of your health, you’ll be less likely to need to draw upon the local health services.

MEET THE LOCALS While travelling, make an effort to broaden your cultural understanding

of the traditions and values of the native people. “Tourism is positive when it increases the understanding between cultures and people,” says Harold. During your trip, get stuck into meeting the residents by visiting local haunts. “By using a tour guide who is from that region, you’ll get to understand and share some of the real atmosphere of the place,” says Harold. Find a local guide who can curate your perfect tour by thinking outside the box – enjoying a home cooked meal at your host's house may well rival your typical fine dining expeirence.

GO FOR HOMEGROWN Quite often, countries and local families are reliant on the income brought in by tourism so you can pay it forward by carefully selecting where you spend your money. If you’re in the market for some unique keepsakes, use the knowledge of your tour guide to hunt down the boutiques of local

artisans where you’ll find a range of handmade items that not only look good but do good supporting local trade. Choose to stop for coffee in an independent café rather than a global chain and your money will go straight into the hands of a local entrepreneur.

BRUSH UP ON ETIQUETTE As in our home towns, each place you visit has a set of social norms that you will do well to adhere to. In Japan, it’s considered rude to tip the waiter and while you may be used to jumping in the back of a taxi, it’s a social faux pas to not ride shotgun with the driver in Australia. It’s easy to research and, just like making the effort to learn some language basics, it’ll help put a smile of the face of all those you meet.

To learn more, check out Harold’s book Responsible Tourism: Using Tourism for Sustainable Development, available at amazon.com worldtravellermagazine.com 17

Straight to the point Journey to the peak of luxury at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort

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WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT Unwind in a Garden Pool Villa

Delightful Omani details

Soak in stunning canyon vistas from your villa's infinity pool

I

n 1986, a helicopter delivered a British royal couple to the untouched wilderness of Jebel Akhdar in Oman.

For hours, Prince Charles painted the canyon’s rugged beauty while Princess Diana read a book. Fast forward to today and, thanks to scenic winding roads that climb up to that very same spot on the Saiq Plateau, you can soak up the stunning view over drinks and nibbles, rise with the sun for a yoga session, or indulge in a romantic feast of local delicacies with your loved one from Diana’s Point at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort.

A two-hour drive from Muscat International Airport, this ancient-fortlike resort is uniquely situated 2,000 metres above sea level, deeming it the highest five-star resort in the Middle East. You can choose to stay secluded amid lush green foliage, or with direct

views of the captivating canyon. Either way, all 115 rooms pay homage to Omani heritage, with design details that encapsulate the barren yet strikingly beautiful landscape that surrounds you. For ultimate privacy, we rate the Cliff Pool Villas, which each feature an infinity pool spilling out towards the mountains as far as the eye can see.

It won’t be long before the striking scenery beckons you to venture outdoors to explore Oman’s natural wonders. Take to the hills either trekking or on a mountain bike and admire the breathtaking beauty of the western Hajar Mountains or enjoy a culture-packed visit to the historic city of Nizwa, renowned for centuries as the ‘Pearl of Islam’. Back to the resort, retreat to Anantara Spa and indulge in a hammam ritual that draws on the healing power of rose water and

pomegranate for a glowing complexion.

With six dining venues to pick from, foodies will be spoilt for choice here.

Feel the Italian vibes at Bella Vista, where home-style regional classics are served with contemporary flair. Al Qalaa takes you on a savoury journey steeped in the region’s culinary roots while Al Baha serves a range of speciality teas around the courtyard’s open fireplace – a setting that’s best enjoyed under a starry night’s sky.

Epicureans can grab an apron and delve into the secrets of Thai and Omani cuisine with the step-by-step Spice Spoons cooking class so, by the end of your trip, you’ll have the all the knowhow you need to recreate your favourite dishes back home.

To find out more, call +968 25 218000 or visit anantara.com worldtravellermagazine.com 19

Pick of the

PALM

Dubai's Palm Jumeirah is one of the largest man-made islands on the planet, from its two-kilometre-long trunk to the tips of its 17 fronds and the surrounding crescent. Launched in 2001, this awe-inspiring isle reclaimed from the sea has developed into a glamorous mixture of luxury hotels, high-end restaurants, thrilling attractions and more that combine to make one of the emirate's most magnetic tourist spots. Discover the very best bits with our round-up of musthave activities and experiences...

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PALM JUMEIRAH

worldtravellermagazine.com 21

Pick of the SUITES

Stay at these plush suites where panoramic Palm Jumeirah views meet private pools, direct beach access, round-the-clock butler service – and even waking up to aquarium views

1

Royal Suite, Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah

This coveted two-bedroom suite occupies the entire top floor of the hotel, taking the crown as the largest suite in the emirate (1,567sqm).

Opulent woods and Italian marble set the tone for a VIP stay, with large living and dining areas, as well as a vast terrace from which to admire those panoramic Palm views. Your entourage is sure to be impressed by the 20-guest majlis and kitchen with butler service, and there's two additional bedrooms for your assistants.

2

Luxe Two Bedroom Suite With Private Pool, FIVE Palm Jumeirah

This plush 175sqm suite is great for groups, comfortably sleeping up to five adults. There’s a separate kitchen area and living room to hang out in, as well as a social dining room set-up for meals shared around the table. You’ll soon be inspired to take the party outdoors, however, as the large terrace beckons with its private pool directly 22 worldtravellermagazine.com

facing the Arabian Gulf. It’s the ideal way to chill while watching the sunset against a Dubai Marina backdrop.

3

Grand King Suite, Rixos The Palm

Step into the private elevator and journey straight to this vast (580sqm) penthouse suite that'll wow you with its floor-to-ceiling windows, sparkling views and awesome outdoor space.

Bagsie the master bedroom for its king size bed, spacious walk-in closet, and en-suite bathroom complete with whirlpool bathtub and standalone rainfall shower.

4

Underwater Suite, Atlantis The Palm, Dubai

Dive deep into relaxation as you unwind to majestic views of the Ambassador Lagoon (boasting 65,000 marine inhabitants) through floor-to-ceiling windows in your bedroom and en-suite – simply watch on in wonder as the fishes swim past.

This impressive three-storey suite, of

which there are just two (Neptune and Poseidon), sets out to impress with interconnecting bedrooms, a grand living room and chic amenities including 24-karat gold smellies.

5

Palm Beach Executive Suite With Pool, One&Only The Palm

This sophisticated, one-bedroom 130sqm suite comes complete with a private pool and is just steps away from the beach. There are just two of these suite types available, offering round-the-clock service by a team of dedicated hosts. Unwind on your

PALM JUMEIRAH

BRITISH CHARM

Experience the best of British hospitality against a stunning backdrop of sun, sea and sand at Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel. Take your pick of the luxurious rooms and suites, with the option to stay allinclusive allowing you to fully unwind.

Opening pages: Atlantis The Palm, Dubai Opposite page, top to bottom: Palm Beach Executive Suite with Pool, One&Only The Palm; Royal Suite, Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah This page, clockwise from top left: Anantara Two Bedroom Beach Pool Villa, Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort; a suite at Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel; Underwater Suite, Atlantis The Palm, Dubai

private beachfront patio or take a dunk in the sumptuous oversized freestanding marble tub. Distinctive Moorish and Andalusian architecture enhances the holiday vibe.

6

Superior 3 Bedroom Penthouse, Kempinski Hotel & Residences Palm Jumeirah

If you’re travelling with the whole family in tow, this 440sqm penthouse’s three bedrooms (sleeping up to 6 adults and 2 children) is just the ticket. With a separate kitchen and living room with terraces overlooking the lagoon and the sea, there’s plenty of room to socialise. Luxury décor with hues of gold create an air of opulence.

7

Anantara Two Bedroom Beach Pool Villa, Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort

The resort’s popular overwater villas are unique to Dubai but the beach pool villa option transports you from the shores of the Arabian Gulf to exotic Asian lands with barefoot luxury in spades. Bi-fold patio doors open up onto a private terrace and infinity pool with its own chic dining sala, bordered by a lush green lawn and the beach mere steps beyond.

8

The Palm Suite, Sofitel the Palm Dubai Resort & Spa

Designed especially for large entourages or extended families travelling together, this four-bedroom

(450sqm) penthouse suite occupies the entire top floor of the resort’s central building. Retreat to the master suite with its king-size bed, en-suite bathroom, separate dressing room and private gym. Beyond the French doors are two expansive terraces, both with magnificent views.

9

Grand Imperial Suite, Jumeirah Zabeel Saray

Follow in the footsteps of royalty and A-listers who have stayed in this grand 310sqm suite, which is tucked away at the highest point of the resort. Breathtaking sea views, richly appointed interiors, a personal spa and private butler service delivers the VIP treatment.

10

Presidential Suite, Fairmont The Palm

With its mix of Arabic-influenced décor and contemporary interior design, this 390sqm suite marries style and comfort. It's all about the view, however, with its expansive terrace offering 180-degree vistas of the Dubai Marina skyline. worldtravellermagazine.com 23

Pick of the RESTAURANTS

Get set for a meal to remember at these top-notch restaurants that will win you over with a compelling combination of tantalising fare and a stunning setting TORNO SUBITO, W DUBAI - THE PALM Despite being a shiny, smiley, seaside affair, Torno Subito carries the weighty expectation of Chef Massimo Bottura on its shoulders, he of three Michelin stars and 2018’s World’s Best Restaurant (for Italy’s Osteria Francescana) acclaim. It doesn’t buckle. A playful gem topped by the best gelato in town.

What to order: The mere but magnificent margherita pizza takes centre stage, edging the too-rich-forour-taste chef’s favourite.

MEKONG, ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT Pan-Asian restaurants usually suffer by being, as the saying goes, a jack of all trades but a master of none. Not so Mekong, which has proved itself skilled in Chinese and Vietnamese and a master of Thai. Park yourself in rickshaw-style seating for

complementing views across to the city.

What to order: The comes-with-a-kick phad kaprow goong.

101 DINING LOUNGE AND MARINA, ONE&ONLY THE PALM Nowhere says you’re having dinner on the Palm quite like this place, the terrace of which bestows glorious across-water views of the city’s spiked skyline. With a new menu rubber stamped by three-Michelin starred chef Yannick Alléno, the food doesn’t suffer by comparison.

What to order: Anything plucked from the sea is good, but Alléno’s take on bouillabaisse is best.

RUE ROYALE, THE POINTE The pride of the Palm’s foodie hotspot The Pointe, Rue Royale is the result of chef Mathieu Viannay’s ambitious quest to sprinkle his Michelin stardust over an entirely Halal and alcohol-free menu inspired by classic French fare.

TRUCK ON…

Swap fine dining for side-ofthe road bites at the 11km-long The Boardwalk, which is home to several dozen food trucks serving everything from fish and chips to shawarma, which you can tuck into while soaking up the sea views.

Dishes are on the pricey side, but worth it for the prized ingredients used.

What to order: The milk-fed lamb shoulder from the rotisserie.

THE RIB ROOM, JUMEIRAH ZABEEL SARAY Its elder sibling in Jumeirah Emirates Towers is a city stalwart, but this outpost tops it. Here you can truly 24 worldtravellermagazine.com

PALM JUMEIRAH

These pages, clockwise from bottom left: 101 Dining Lounge and Marina; Khyber; Rue Royale; Mekong

indulge in ingredients as opulent as the resort itself: beluga caviar, purebreed master kobe wagyu beef, foie gras, oysters, lobster… you get the idea. Just be sure to save space for the well selected cheeses.

What to order: That master kobe wagyu is almost worthy of its price tag.

LITTLE MISS INDIA, FAIRMONT THE PALM A vibrantly decorated and playful restaurant that excels in house-made spice mixtures and marinades, used to brilliant effect in both the food and inspired drinks that put an Indian spin on classic recipes. Dishes are served

for sharing – make sure you’re first to the spoon.

What to order: The soft-as-a-pillow murgh malai kebab, fresh from the tandoor.

AKIRA BACK, W DUBAI - THE PALM Akira Back is the headline act, but his Chef de Cuisine Giovanni Ledon is the star of this particular show. To go alongside Japanese hot and cold plates – including what’s arguably the best sushi in the city – Ledon has created a full vegan menu that packs in incredible flavour.

What to order: The sushi is a must, but

ask Ledon for a sample plate of vegan desserts. You’ll be wowed.

KHYBER, DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL Embark on a spice-laden journey through northern India at this Mumbai import, which serves up great views across to Dubai Marina – though it’s the dishes served that take our full attention. Spiced to perfection, the curries are faultless (the service not far from it), and there’s a substantial vegetarian offering.

What to order: Tiranga paneer tikka – you’ll be ever so glad you’re on a meat-free day. worldtravellermagazine.com 25

PALM JUMEIRAH

Pick of the POOLS

If being surrounded by the sparkling sea isn't enough to satisfy your chill-o-meter, don't fret.

The island is spilling over with swimming pools to take a refreshing dip in, so go on, dive in!

1

The infinity pool at Dukes The Palm, A Royal Hideaway Resort

Kick back at this Insta-worthy infinity pool and gaze at the turquoise waters that appear to blend seamlessly into the sky. This temperature-controlled pool is the ideal spot at which to cool down. Plus, it's just a hop, skip and a jump away from the hotel's lazy river.

2

Highlights pool bar at Rixos the Palm Dubai Hotel & Suites

Perfect for an uninterrupted pool day, this lush oasis is surrounded by palm trees, with a swim-up bar keeping you well-fed and watered.

You can dry off on one of the many comfy sunloungers or exclusive beach cabanas. The kids will enjoy splashing around in the dedicated shallow pool.

3

Infinity pool at Anantara the Palm Dubai Resort

If you're eager to get some lengths in, you'll be in your element in this Thaiinspired resort's 50-metre infinity pool. Swim to your heart's content, admiring the charming architecture and shoreline views as you go. Don't leave without taking a relaxing dunk in the Jacuzzi overlooking the Arabian Gulf.

4

The main pool, Sofitel Dubai The Palm

With six outdoor pools to choose from, you're spoilt for choice here.

The main pool faces the beach, with its sun decks surrounded by palm trees, vibrant bougainvillea and more lush greenery. For a dash of fun, hunt out the pools featuring slides and waterfalls, as well as the splash area just for kids.

Psst! You'll soon be able to take a dip 52-storeys high at the rooftop infinity pool at The Palm Tower complex that's set to open in 2020.

This page clockwise from top left: Infinity pool at Dukes The Palm, A Royal Hideaway Hotel; Highlights Pool Bar at Rixos The Palm Dubai Hotel & Suites; Infinity Pool at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort; The Main Pool at Sofitel Dubai The Palm

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Whatever your vision of the perfect vacation – be it a fun family beach holiday, honeymoon romance or just relaxing in beachfront exclusivity – Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort offers a uniquely luxurious escape, inspired by Thai exoticism and the heartbeat of Dubai.

Unwind in an enchanting Beach Pool Villa, with your very own private infinity pool. Soak up tranquil Arabian Gulf views from your Over Water Villa. Step straight from your room into the crystal clear waters of our 10,000 square metre lagoon pools. Culinary journeys excite with a melange of mouthwatering flavours. The prestigious sanctuary of Anantara Spa rejuvenates and renews, from a range of inspirational treatments, to indulgent rituals in the Turkish Hammam.

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT P.O. BOX 71607, EAST CRESCENT, PALM JUMEIRAH, DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES T +971 4 567 8888 E resdubaipalm@anantara.com

PALM JUMEIRAH AWAY Spa

Pick of the SPAS

Take a load off at these top pampering havens that'll help you wave goodbye to stress If your MO is to unwind, you'll be pleased to learn that the Palm's spa game is strong. The Retreat Palm Dubai MGallery by Sofitel is home to the world’s first Rayya Wellness Centre (+971 4 524 7777) offering an impressive line-up of holistic, tailor-made health and wellbeing programmes. If you can't squeeze in a package, plump for a treatment off the à la carte menu – the laughter yoga group class followed by an Emotional Freedom Techniques coaching session will have you feeling like a new person.

Treatments take place in the luxury spa or on the beach.

Not your traditional zen spa, AWAY Spa (+971 4 245 5533) at W Dubai The Palm will wow you with its striking design that harks back to Dubai’s pearl diving heyday. Make your way past the shimmering entryway to the Beauty Bar and join the city's social set as they take their seats for touch-ups such as party lashes, quick polish changes, and nourishing lip masks while sipping on drinks. If you require more privacy, there are 11 treatment rooms, including a couples' suite, although the outdoor cabana treatments (from 15-60 minutes) are perfect for teaming a soothing session with serene sea views.

For one of the best hammam experiences, head to Anantara Spa (+971 4 567 8140) at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort. Available for men, women and couples, let those aches melt away in the traditional Turkish hammam that will soak, steam, scrub and massage you to gleaming perfection so you emerge refreshed. worldtravellermagazine.com 29

PALM JUMEIRAH

Pick of the EXPERIENCES

From jumping out of a plane to whizzing down a near-vertical waterslide and living it up at the hippest beach clubs, the fronded island brings the fun factor in spades Take the leap of faith It takes some nerve, but if you haven't flung yourself down the near-vertical Leap of Faith waterslide then you've not had the full Atlantis Aquaventure experience. It takes just one second to ride this nine-storey-tall mega slide before being whooshed through a transparent tube surrounded by sharks and cownose rays. It's the star slide at this sprawling family-favourite waterpark at Atlantis The Palm, Dubai.

Jump out of a plane Time to tick skydiving off your bucket list? You've come to the right place, as Skydive Dubai (skydivedubai.ae) 30 worldtravellermagazine.com

invites you to leap out of an aeroplane, tethered to a professional, for a tandem jump experience over Palm Jumeirah. It's the best (albeit most extreme) way to see the island from above – unless you've got your eyes closed, of course.

Meet the dolphins Deep water hugs, kisses and dancing – the dolphins at Dolphin Bay at Atlantis The Palm, Dubai are showered with affection. We rate the Dolphin Adventure experience (for confident swimmers aged 8+), which includes a thrilling belly ride from the centre of the lagoon, among other activities.

Feel the need for speed Make like James Bond on a thrilling speedboat tour around the island.

Splash Tours (splashtours.ae) sets off from Dubai Marina, before looping around Palm Jumeirah, pausing at Atlantis The Palm and Burj Al Arab for photo opportunities. The 90-minute sightseeing trip is a family-friendly affair that's ideal for catching a glimpse of all those famous landmarks along the coast. Another great option is The Yellow Boats (theyellowboats. com), which runs a super cool 99-minute tour of Palm Jumeirah, Burj Al Arab and Dubai Marina, with the option to arrange a private charter.

Live it up at the beach clubs Synonymous with Dubai’s party scene, Palm Jumeirah plays host to a slew of hip beach clubs. The boho themed Playa Nomade (playanomade.com) at Rixos The Palm Dubai, serves up laid-

PALM JUMEIRAH

LET'S DO BRUNCH… Brunch in Dubai remains an institution, with restaurants pulling out all the stops to tempt your tastebuds. That's no more apparent than on the Palm, where for families we rate the fun vibes at West 14th, while foodies will fall hard for Akira back weekday vibes, with Back. lively brunches and house DJs ramping up the pace at weekends.

Families should head to Riva (rivabeach.com) at The Shoreline to splash around in the sparkling pool and unwind on the sand. Meanwhile, Wet Deck (wetdeckdubai.com) at W Opposite: Skydive Dubai, photo © Skydive Dubai This page, clockwise from top left: The Penthouse Dubai; Wet Dubai - The Palm attracts an energetic Deck; The Leap of Faith crowd with its partially submerged row to the beat of the drum – but if to the full moon each month, seasoned day beds, colourful inflatables, and you can't make up the numbers don't yogis and novices alike are invited to steady line-up of DJs and performers. fret, as you can also take a guided practise their asanas while the resident Ride the waves kayak tour around the island, or go yoga teacher talks you through the Watersports company SeaYou sailing, windsurfing, stand-up paddle different postures. Each session ends (seayou.ae), which operates from boarding and more. with a relaxing meditation.

Sofitel Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa, Peace out under a full moon Sip sundowners offers all manner of activities in the Inhale and exhale beneath the light of With the Palm’s stunning vistas, it’s water, including dragonboating for the full moon at Fairmont The Palm. little wonder there’s sundowner spots groups. There needs to be a minimum Taking place on the Saturday closest aplenty here. Our favourite places for of eight people to take part – simply watching the sun go down over with a drink in hand include West 14th (soak up the view from the terrace) and Phantom House at The Pointe (offering direct views of Atlantis The Palm).

Check out The View Situated 240 metres high, The View at The Palm is a public observation deck offering stellar vistas. What’s more, this new attraction, set to open in 2020, shares the story behind the making of the island through its interactive museum and dedicated gallery.

Accessible via Nakheel Mall, you’ll make the three-minute ascent in the hi-tech elevator (it has a floor-to-ceiling digital sea, sand and sky display) to the observatory at the top of The Palm Tower, where you can soak up those 360-degree views. worldtravellermagazine.com 31

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Postcards Stories from journeys far and wide

IBIZA p34 SWEDEN p40 GREECE p46

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IBIZA

These pages, from left: A staired street in Ibiza town; a bird's eye view of Ibiza and Formentera islands

Baby Blues

The Balearic isle of Ibiza was party central in the ’90s, when Amanda Hyde rocked up, young, free and single. But can it still thrill now that she’s grown up and married, with kids in tow?

worldtravellermagazine.com 35

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AT DUSK WE SWADDLED OURSELVES IN TOWELS FOR AN IBIZAN CLASSIC WATCHING A FLAMING SUN DRIP LIKE SYRUP INTO THE OPALESCENT SEA

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buckets and spades would buy us the bargaining power needed for some adult-friendly, nostalgia-stirring excursions during the holiday.

It was a bonus to find that the hotel was quite nice.

Built behind the craggy bay at Cala Tarida (home to the best sunsets on the island), it felt more like a quasi boutique hotel. With 402 rooms, it was undeniably humongous, but with little touches such as a sunset bar and posh spa to soften its edges. For some, it is a kind of Hotel California: I met a couple who hadn’t left it for their entire fortnight, not even for the postcardworthy beach just beyond its gates. But I knew better. It takes 50 minutes max to get anywhere on Ibiza and, kids or no kids, I couldn't make my comeback without returning to places I'd been when I was too young to appreciate them. First stop, IbizaTown.

After rotating our hire car into a space the size of a saucer, the whole family jumped out and made straight for the cobbled, pastel-washed centre.

In my party days, it had felt like the epitome of chic. We mooched past touristy boutiques (some jewelled skulls and embellished beach bags catching Amelie’s eye) and searched out bougainvillea-laced squares off narrowalley mazes. But, after a quick lunch

of salads on a terrace on the cobbles, Amelie had something to say. ‘Boring, boring, boring,’ she muttered. Frankly, she was right. Without my rosé-tinted specs, the whole place seemed cynically touristy. Luckily, the kids had an idea: we should take a boat trip.

Many Ibiza visitors splurge on this part of the holiday, spending hundreds on private charters to the neighbouring island of Formentera. We considered this, but ruled it out on the grounds that our two-year-old might launch himself off the side if it went on too long, rendering it poor value. Instead, we opted for the shortest boat trip available — the $5 return from Ibiza Town's Dalt Vila area to the glitzy marina next door.

It might not have been my personal dream boat, but the rusty old ferry that ploughs this route was manned by a proper old sea dog in a captain’s hat (much to the kids’ delight). And it was worth it to see Sonny’s face as he pointed out passing mega-yachts and seagulls, while Amelie gleefully scanned the water ‘for sharks’. From across the bay, I photographed Ibiza Town rising from the sea in a whitewashed haze. It looked as it must have before the souvenir shops arrived: houses wrapped like icing tiers around a fortress topping. The magical setting and infant enthusiasm combined in one of those annoying smug-parent moments. Sadly, it lasted exactly three minutes — until we got off at the wrong stop.

There are two, it turns out: first, industrial wasteland; second, glitzy marina. Ashen-faced, we realised we’d have to wait for the ferry to do another one of its circuitous routes before it could pick us up. Still, every cloud ‘Playground!’ shouted Amelie.

Sure enough, there among the tumbleweed was a playground seemingly unvisited since 1986. We had no choice but to kill an hour there — the kids making the most of empty swings, my husband glaring at the water from a crumbling, graffiticovered wall.

Back aboard the ferry, he took control of the situation. ‘Right, you’ve had your fun. Tomorrow it’s Mummy and

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

he last time I went to Ibiza, I checked into a ridiculously expensive villa, stayed out partying for two days straight, and made it to my beautiful, boho-chic bedroom just as the flight I’d booked home was taking off. My weekend consisted of over-the-top kaftans, overpriced rosé and overhyped DJs, but I thought it was the best holiday I’d ever had. A decade on, I was ready for a rematch, but something had changed. I’d grown up. This time, I’d be going with my husband, Nat, and two other travel companions — our kids, Amelie (four) and Sonny (two).

As parents, we were slightly hesitant.

To us, Ibiza represented the thumping belly of super-clubs, and erratic binges on dodgy tapas. But we’d seen our most sensible friends holiday on the island with kids in tow, and read a string of newspaper articles proclaiming that Ibizan clubs were over, anyway (ruined by a clientele who would rather take selfies outside the gates than actually hit the dance floor). With the loss of the island’s hard-partying reputation, family bookings are soaring — up 125% from 2013. But could trading big-name DJs for early-night PJs really make for a fun holiday on this island? We were about to find out.

We touched down early in the morning, driving towards our hotel through countryside ticker-taped with sudden glimpses of neon-blue sea. As we passed the kind of villas I’d rented on my previous visit — rustic-luxe restored farmhouses made for floating on giant inflatable unicorns — I could only wave them a forlorn farewell. This year, we were making the ultimate kid-friendly sacrifice: an all-inclusive behemoth in the far west of the island.

The behemoth (also known as Sensatori Resort) promised a kids’ club, kids’ pools — even a kids’ cabaret after dinner. What it didn’t promise was thrilling evenings for us, since we were all sharing one room. Nat and I assumed we’d spend each night sitting silently in the dark until they started snoring. Our reasons for choosing it weren’t entirely altruistic, though.

Round-the-clock ice creams and free

IBIZA

This page, clockwise from above: Whitewashed buildings in Santa Eulalia on the east coast of Ibiza; Dalt Vila in Ibiza Town; decorative detailing and flowers adorn the traditional houses

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IBIZA

These pages: Houses perched on rocks in Ibiza town

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WE LOVED THE ISLAND’S RELAXED EASTERN SIDE SO MUCH THAT WE BUSTED AMELIE OUT OF THE KIDS’ CLUB

Daddy’s turn,’ Nat asserted. ‘We’re going to a beach club.’ It was a brave move.

Any recent excursions in that direction had involved travel potties, panic over eating unsavoury sand, and no clubs whatsoever. Fortuitously, it turned out that one of Ibiza’s best was a stroll from the hotel, so we could always run back if anyone erupted.

Cotton Beach Club is among a handful of restaurants at Cala Tarida, and a favourite with the yachting crowd. A glance at Instagram suggested it was a place where pneumatic blonde beauties came to pose with the sea in the background. Lord knows what they’d make of us.

Slightly sweaty from ascending the hundreds of steps from the beach, we stumbled into the all-white interior to find it staffed by model types in minimalist black outfits. Spa music played softly as we looked out over the wide terrace, facing the glimmering sea. It was so glacially beautiful that, for a moment, we considered legging it. Then we spotted a sprinkling of families — even one or two with children worse-behaved than ours.

In the end, we devoted three languid hours to lunch, something we hadn’t achieved since Amelie was born.

Nat and I nibbled fresh prawn curry and polished off a bottle of decent white; Amelie and Sonny befriended some Dutch children and dashed around a terrace meant for sunset contemplation. Below, boats skimmed across the bay as the sun cast millions of glinting diamonds over the sea.

We had finally hit our Ibizan stride. We returned to Cotton Beach later in the holiday, for sushi on its

sunloungers. The kids dipped in and out of the water and, when boredom threatened, the jolly bartenders were on hand with banter and mocktails.

At dusk we swaddled ourselves in towels for an Ibizan classic — watching a flaming sun drip like syrup into the opalescent sea.

Only two things threatened our island adventures: Karl and Koral. The pesky Sensatori’s kids’ entertainers were so damn perky that Amelie instantly loved them more than she did us. How could my day-trips compete with mornings of messy science experiments?

Frantically scouring the internet, I found an evening out that would pry her from the kids’ club: Babylon Beach, a restaurant on a forested spit of sand at the opposite end of the island, with children’s entertainment and a Tarzanstyle rope playground. Bingo.

We arrived to find a kind of crossgenerational paradise. Nat and I settled down for drinks under a straw umbrella, while Amelie had her face painted as a unicorn, chatting to sixyear-old boys with press-on Pacha tattoos. Sonny scribbled in a dragonthemed colouring book he’d been gifted before dropping off to the lilt of the sea and the persistent throb of background dubstep. With the kids occupied, we met the owner, Vaughan, a dreadlocked giant clad in bright African prints, who first came to Ibiza in the '80s to dance at Pacha and ended up running the club’s Funky Room. Now, he watches over this place alongside business partner, Angie (not to be outdone, she was rocking vintage Pucci).

Vaughan told us that Babylon Beach was reminiscent of Ibiza before

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the social-media age and police crackdowns. We agreed: the whole place radiated a refreshing hippy permissiveness. And there were kids — including the owners’. Perhaps when you’ve seen it all, there’s not much a kid can do to shock you.

We loved the island’s relaxed eastern side so much that we busted Amelie out of the kids’ club again the following day, making for the crescent of yellow sand at Cala San Vicente. We went via the whitewashed hilltop village of Sant Joan (brightly painted shutters and empty lanes instead of noisy clubs and tourist-trap restaurants) and found ourselves sharing the beach with just two people, a pair of bohemian types with a bongo. Thankfully, it remained unplayed, and we whiled away the afternoon tucking into just-caught fish amid the unreconstructed ’60s charm of Restaurant Es Caló, the children building sandcastles between courses.

It was the perfect day, unmarred by the pressures of fitting in with a designer-clad crowd at a posh hangout.

In fact, the whole holiday had hit the spot, packed with low-key places that appealed to all of us (on other less successful trips, we’ve alternated soft-play days and disgruntled adults with museum days and bored kids). It was even a relief, eventually, to have Karl and Koral on call, should Nat and I want to visit a spa or have a drink on our own. Nevertheless, as I joined the kids in scooping up seashells in the afternoon sun, I prayed that Amelie had forgotten the evening disco.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellermagazine.com 39

SWEDEN

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OVER THE COURSE OF A LONG WEEKEND, COULD I HAVE MY CINNAMON BUN AND EAT IT?

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Style in the cities, rugged good looks in the country – Liz Edwards has always harboured two separate Swedish fantasies. Would combining both in one break be too much of what she fancied?

worldtravellermagazine.com 41

SWEDEN

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EVEN THE UNCOOL BITS OF GOTHENBERG WERE CHARMING AND QUAINT

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cool shops. (My husband might have preferred shortcutting via the cinnamonbun route, but there was time for that, too...) The area around Magasinsgatan has been the trendy part of town for the past few years, I’d heard, and sure enough we found plenty of the sort of store that allows you to daydream yourself Swedish: there was the homegrown Nudie Jeans shop; Granit’s simplefunctional interiors; and fashion and accessories in Miksajo, whose owner also runs a local project promoting female street artists (you wouldn’t get that in graffiti-free Stockholm).

In one single square just off Magasinsgatan, we hit peak gorgeousness: lifestyle store Grandpa with its designer toothbrushes, retro dartboards and minimal fashion; wantwant-want interiors shop Artilleriet; and groovy café Da Matteo, sharing a sparrow-hopping backyard with florist

Floramor & Krukatös. As we sat there over home-roast coffee with cardamom and cinnamon buns (husband now happy), I realised this was, officially, fika: Swedish snacking is only fika when it’s sociable. The scene was an uncanny match for one half of my split screen.

Before you eye-roll at the relentless perfection of it all, it’s worth pointing out that from some angles, the skyline is dominated not by spirey churches, but by the red-and white Lego-ish ‘Lipstick’ tower, generally accepted to be one of Sweden’s ugliest buildings.

Gothenburg is also the home of Volvo, and — don’t yawn! — the Volvo Museum.

A city break’s not a city break without a culture fix, but even in our walking boots, we’d have felt too cool for that.

So, the next morning, we set our sights on Vasastan, the boulevardy museumand-gallery district. Alas Röhsska, the museum of design and craft, was

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

icture Sweden and what do you see? An ice-cool, design-forward place of chic interiors shops, progressive attitudes towards cyclists and coffee shops filled with paternity-leave ‘latte papas’? Or endless miles of pine-spiked wilderness, interrupted only by sparkling stretches of water, cutesy wooden cabins and wholesome types in hiking boots and Fair Isle jumpers? Unhelpfully for holiday-booking purposes, my mind’s eye was split-screen, with both versions playing out side by side (plus a few clips of Abba and Alexander Skarsgård thrown in for good measure). Torn between the two, and with my husband short on annual leave, I made an executive decision — we’d try to squeeze in both.

OK, more like an executive indecision.

But over the course of a long weekend, could I have my cinnamon bun and eat it? I settled on west-coast Gothenburg as our city start before we headed off into the wilds. A bit of a Scandiphile, I’d long had my eye on Stockholm’s little sister, with its reputation for excellent food.

Swedish friends had promised an edgier feel than I’d found in the sophisticated, clean-cut capital. I was expecting beards.

What was great, in theory, about my plan was that it meant two holidays in one. What was terrible was the packing.

Desk-to-forest fashion may be a thing in Sweden, but not in my wardrobe. So the ‘wear your bulkiest items on the plane’ rule saw us making our entrance at the glossy Clarion Hotel Post in scuffed walking boots, clumping in among the beautiful, city-chic Scandis.

Of course they didn’t care, and nor did we once we’d re-urbanised slightly and landed back out on the streets.

Gothenburg began as a 17th-century trading settlement, fortified and surrounded with zigzag canals that were later adorned with handsome bridges and Neo-Classical houses built by East India Trading Company merchants.

And it was modern-day merchants that we were after now — there’s no quicker route to a Scandi state of mind than a drift round its effortlessly, ineffably

SWEDEN

Opening pages, from left: Traditional cinnamon bun; boats and colourful boat houses on Sweden's west coast These pages, clockwise from left: Dusk descends over Gothenberg; the managers and a sample dish from Gothenberg's Michelin-starred restaurant Koka

still under wraps after a two-year renovation (it’s open again now), but standing at the top of Kungsportavenyen, surrounded by concert hall, state theatre, library, two cinemas and two art centres, I reckoned we’d cope.

And the Gothenburg Museum of Art, an industrial looking yellow-brick edifice, was a treat: a pleasing mix of international styles — Picasso, Monet, Braque, Degas — alongside a good collection of Scandinavian artists. Not all moody Munchs, either — Carl Larsson’s cheeky 19th-century family portraits were a revelation. It was in Gothenburg that, at the turn of the century, the Artists’ Union formed in opposition to the stuffier Stockholm Academy, and playfulness is still in evidence. The most striking piece of all was by local woman Cajsa von Zeipel: a giant sculpture of a scrawny, stony-faced dancer, revolving slowly upside-down round a pole.

Lately, it’s been in the culinary arts that Gothenburg’s been making a name for itself. The city’s six Michelin stars might sound modest, but that pips London to the post for stars per inhabitant. Dinner the night before had been at Familjen, the casual sibling to Koka, one of those six. Excellent sourdough came with sour cream and smoked cod roe; a delicate, umami-laced arctic char with pickled shitake and mushroom vinaigrette was like S candi summer in a dish. It couldn't have been more Swedish had it been made by the Muppets' chef.

And our post-art lunch was similarly on-message.

Over in Långgatan, the new up-andcoming district west of the city centre, we sat in Kafe Magasinet’s magazineshoot-ready glass-roofed courtyard among macramé pots, bamboo furniture and industrial bulbs. On the menu were vegan salads, generously filled bagels and

the best avocado and egg on sourdough I think I’ve ever had. Honestly, it felt like Gothenburg could do no wrong. Even the uncool bits were charming and quaint: our wander back to the hotel through Haga, the picturesque old district of cobbles and timbered houses, took in an artisan clog shop, a higgledy-piggledy Aladdin’s cave-ish vintage store, and a bakery selling cinnamon rolls the size of cinema reels. (Volvo museum, I reminded myself.) Time for the other Sweden. You don’t have to go far out of Gothenburg to find an outdoorsy escape. West of the city, ferries from Saltholmen will deliver you to islands such as Styrsö, with its golf buggies and holiday-vibe cafés, in 40 minutes. But my internet quest for waterside cabins had led me towards a village in the Bohuslän region north of Gothenburg, Lyckorna — in some translations, that’s a place called Happiness. worldtravellermagazine.com 43

SWEDEN

Driving north of the city, we were quickly out among birches and pines, spotting red-roofed farmhouses and squadrons of geese. And 45 minutes after waving the Lipstick building goodbye, we were pulling up just outside Lyckorna — actually beyond Happiness — at Anfasteröd Gårdsvik. It’s a seaside campsite, but not really what you might expect if British seaside campsites are your benchmark. Yes, there were plots for tents and caravans and motorhomes, and no, it wasn’t in the depths of wilderness among moose and wolves. But it was instantly beguiling. A white clapboard reception-and-restaurant building sat facing the sheltering islands that keep the sea lake-calm. Little jetties reached out into the water; fields and beech trees ran along the shore either side; clouds like whipped cream hung in the blue, skimming distant hilltops. And besides the temporary plots, there were a handful of simple cabins with kitchenettes. Ours stood on the edge of the site; from its veranda, our view was basically of sea and forest, and the occasional rainbow.

The loudest sound we heard was the ping of acorns dropping onto the deck.

So we could play at splendid isolation, then wander over to the main building for knockout breakfasts, boat and bike hire, and local intel from owners Hanna

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and Magnus (H&M! So Swedish).

That first afternoon, Hanna showed us one of the walking trails through the woods above the site, pointing out edible mushrooms and berries beneath the spruces, ferns and oaks.

‘The forest is so good for kids,’ she enthused. ‘It’s like a museum where you can touch everything!’ Even without a Fair Isle jumper, she basically completed the picture in the other half of my split-screen. Then improved on it when she broke out the flask of coffee and home-baked cinnamon buns. Fika in the forest with sea-island views would take some beating.

But beaten it was, by Gårdsvik’s floating

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OUR 36 HOURS ON THE COAST PASSED IN A WHOOSH OF FRESH AIR, ROSY CHEEKS AND ADVENTURES IN NATURE

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These pages: Tall pine trees aside calm water in the forest

sauna. I told you this was no normal campsite; I thought I might keel over in delight when I saw it. Fired up for us after our walk, the wooden cabin was tethered to one of the jetties, so we bobbed gently, soaking up scenery and piney heat for as long as we could bear, before dashing outside to plunge into the sea, swim a few strokes, clamber back up the steps and start again. It was tingly, invigorating, therapeutic. It was wonderful.

And so our 36 hours on the coast passed in a whoosh of fresh air, rosy cheeks and adventures in nature, as if we were characters in a children’s book (somewhere between Pippi Longstocking and Swallows & Amazons). We cycled along the coast to some excellent restaurants (their proximity another reason to choose campsite over wilderness). We tried crabbing off the jetty: aquavit-clear water gave the crabs a disadvantage, our lack of skill levelled the playing field.

And we hired a little blue-and-white motorboat from Magnus. He kitted us out with wooden fishing reels, pots of bait, a map showing sea depth and nearest islands, and a weighty picnic basket. Beyond the mussel farms, where cormorants perched to hang their wings out to dry, we killed the engine and followed Magnus’s instructions as best we could on the bait and lines.

And eventually had to accept that our ‘fishing’ was really just an elaborately slow way of feeding the local mackerel.

So we picked one of the dozens of castaway islands for our picnic. A shellcrunchy sand bar between boulders, heather and trees gave us easy mooring on, I think, Birch Island — Björkholmen.

Sure enough, it was oh so quiet; Sunday yachts drifted past, but we had the place to ourselves. We sat on lichengilded rocks and unpacked lunch: moose sandwiches, homemade rock buns. Sweden had worked its magic: Gothenburg seemed aeons ago, home even more distant. And maybe this was where the beauty of my indecision lay.

By taking two holidays in one, it felt like we’d left everyday life twice as far behind.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellermagazine.com 45

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GREECE

Who said you had to be Abramovich to voyage in sumptuous style? Jeremy Lazell and family sail Greece’s Ionian islands on a rarefied odyssey

worldtravellermagazine.com 47

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least twice the price of most skipperedyacht charters on the Med (which, incidentally, generally require you to cook for the skipper), it also comes with the aforementioned host, who cooks, cleans, tidies your room, makes your bed and generally spoils you to within an inch of your indecently privileged life. 'What time would you like canapés?' Joy asks as we bounce on the sofas and giggle.

The plan is a five-day sail around Paxos and Antipaxos, with Charlie, a Royal Yachting Association instructor, eager to let us help out or — in our case — let us lie back as the mood dictates.

Before coming, I’d pictured my three boys pulling on ropes and clambering up rigging, blinking at the horizon and turning into men before my eyes.

However, not 20 minutes into our first sail across the Corfu Channel, all three disappear below deck to watch a DVD. For about seven seconds the wife and I wonder whether we mind, then sink back on to the sofas and gaze at the waves.

That evening is a strange one. We drop anchor about two hours south of Corfu town in a secluded bay. We play Uno over canapés, Joy serves us a delicious dinner above-decks, a warm sea-breeze drifts in below a pulsing smear of stars. We are living the family holiday dream. And yet, the problem is we're on a boat. Yes, it's a seriously nice boat. Yes, the bed in our master cabin is bigger than our double at home. But it's still a boat. It rocks, it creaks, it wakes me up with urgent noises from the ensuite. Some time around 4am, $13,000 suddenly feels like a lot of money to

‘

AT 6AM I GO UP ON DECK. IT IS A SCENE OF ALMOST LUDICROUS BEAUTY

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spend on a week of no sleep, with three kids who’d rather watch Harry Potter DVDs than learn to sail.

At 6am I give in and go up on deck. It is a scene of almost ludicrous beauty, like the British Virgin Islands circa 1950. We are all alone below a rocky, uninhabited island, the water slack and glassy, the only signs of life a pair of gulls painted pink against a vast, rising sun. I step down to the back of the boat and dive in. It is sunrise in the Mediterranean, I am swimming on my own, drifting round the boat — my boat. Climbing back on board, I found it utterly impossible to remember what made me so grumpy the night before.

It is the start of perhaps the best day in this family's life. The original plan was for a three- or four-hour sail to Paxos, but Charlie, sensing we’re a lot less Ellen MacArthur than most Argentous clients, suggests we stay and play instead. Because as well as having its own mini speedboat, Argentous has more water-sports toys than you can shake a selfie stick at. For the entire day, the boys snorkel, windsurf, paddleboard, waterski, jump off rocks or scream as they hurtle behind the speedboat on inflatable tyres.

That night, Charlie runs us by speedboat to Sivota, a pretty seaside town on the mainland with a few modest tavernas and armies of friendly stray dogs and cats. We feast on calamari and kleftiko, and feed fish off the jetty between courses, sipping drinks in the balmy night air as the boys lick ice cream and cuddle kittens on their lap. ‘I love Greece,’ says the eight-year-old, a splash of freckles on his sunkissed cheeks. I know exactly what he means.

The next day we do sail to Paxos. I say ‘we’, but the actual sailing is, obviously, down to Charlie.

I'd love to reveal that, having fallen in love with the sea the day before, the boys are impossible to prise from the helm, but as it happens, they're mostly back below-decks with Harry Potter. 'Those box sets won't watch themselves', says the 12-yearold. Still slightly heady on yesterday's

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/ News Licensing

quite fancy being a Russian oligarch.

Pootling about on my superyacht, motoring ashore for cocktails and calamari, securing pipeline deals on deck, while staff top up my drink.

Trouble is, I don’t have a superyacht, there are no pipeline deals, only an ever-expanding overdraft and 27 years left on the mortgage. But two things happened recently to change all that.

First, my mother died and left us some money, simultaneously wiping out the overdraft and reminding me that life is too short for 'What's the sensible thing to do?' Second, a fellow boat-nut told me about Argentous — a four-cabin, 20-metre yacht based in the Greek islands that bridges the gap between no-frills skippered yachts and all-frills Abramovich-level superyachts. It's long been a fantasy of mine to island-hop in private luxury, so we weigh everything up, convince ourselves it's what my mum would have wanted, and fly out en famille to Corfu.

We are picked up at the Corfu Imperial Grecotel, skipper Charlie scooping us up from the hotel’s beach in a mini speedboat that later packs away like something out of Thunderbirds into — those reading this in the hope of improving their yachting vocabulary should look away now — the 'boot' of Argentous. Speeding out across the bay, my 11-year-old stares at the sailing boat, which gleams like an Aston Martin among a fleet of Trabants.

'People must think we›re millionaires', he says, stifling an enormous grin.

On board, the grins get bigger. And it's not just the kids. Upstairs (abovedecks?), the area beyond the steering wheel (helm?) looks like the VIP chillout zone of an uber-hip Ibiza nightclub, with wraparound slate-grey sofas we instantly earmark for sundowners.

Beyond that, slung between a towering 27-metre mast and spinnaker, a hammock beckons just back from the bow. Half of me instantly frets about the havoc my kids will wreak on the pristine decor; the other half is happy sipping the welcome drink brought by our host, Joy. Because although Argentous costs at

GREECE

This page, clockwise from above: Erimitis beach on the west coast of Paxos; a plate of fried calamari; an elderly local surveys the harbourfront from a first floor window in Gaios, Paxos

Opening pages: grilled prawn salad; climbing a tree against the backdrop of a fiery sunset This page: Petit Piton above Margretoute Bay

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GREECE

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IT’S A CATERED VILLA, A LUXURY MOBILE HOME AND SPORTS RESORT ALL ROLLED INTO ONE success, it is impossible for me to get cross with him.

That afternoon we drop anchor in a preposterously cobalt-coloured bay, Lakka, beloved of postcard-sellers and yacht charters. We windsurf, paddleboard, and take selfies against the improbable blue, but somehow the magic is gone, crowded out by the yachtie hoi polloi.

‘How about a walk?’ suggests Charlie, delivering a masterstroke. He drops us ashore, then takes Argentous along the coast to pick us up in the next village, Longos, leaving us to follow a thyme-scented donkey track between beaches and abandoned watermills, olive groves and hamlets. I’m not saying there’s no moaning, but in between grunts the boys chase crickets, stroke goats and play Marco Polo in the shallows at Manadendri Beach. It feels like we’ve wandered off the tourist trail to glimpse a Greece that few people get to see.

What you don’t get on Argentous, we discover waking to a force-six wind the next day, is guaranteed good weather. But Plan A's loss (we had been aiming for the indecently photogenic Voutoumi Bay on Antipaxos) is Plan B’s gain, as we divert to Porto Ozias, a one-taverna inlet at the eastern end of Paxos. Glassily calm and inexplicably free of other boats, the inlet is a gloriously windless shelter from the storm. For hours we windsurf and wakeboard, sunbathe and read, eventually sailing in for dinner in Paxos’s main town, Gaios, where our boys play football on the cobbles below the church.

So far, so Instagram, but don’t you get exactly the same memories — for half the price — on a bog-standard skippered-yacht charter? Well, actually, 50 worldtravellermagazine.com

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no. For one thing those bog-standard charters might occasionally have a mini speedboat to ferry you between boat and port, but with nowhere near enough horsepower to tow a waterski or wakeboard. Take away the water sports, and a yacht — for kids — is basically a floating prison.

But more than that, Argentous makes you feel like royalty. It’s partly just t he sleek lines, the teak deck, t he towering mast. As we pulled into Gaios, people actually got out of their boats (daubed in rental-agency logos) for a better look.

But it’s also t he s ervice: no-frills yacht charters are hard work. You cook, you clean, you pull ropes, you shop: it’s fun, but you’ll need a holiday afterwards. With Joy below-decks and Charlie at t he helm, the o nly finger you lift on Argentous is the pinky on your drink. It’s a catered villa, a luxury mobile home and sports resort all rolled into one.

On our last day, we sail back into Gouvia marina on Corfu, all five of us sitting silently on-deck in pre-emptive mourning. ‘You’ll just have to come back next summer,’ says Joy. Yeah, right. At $13,000 a week and without another inheritance on t he horizon, it's a 'probably not' from us. However, there were times on this trip — wakeboarding in that abandoned cove, swimming round the b oat at dawn, playing cards on deck — when we felt so truly spoilt, so dizzyingly privileged, I knew it was worth every penny.

A year on, Argentous’s owners have added three more luxury yachts to their fleet. One, Aurous, is a five-cabin catamaran with a trampoline and sundeck. My advice? Nab it before my kids get wind of that trampoline.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

These pages: Sunset bridges the gap between Corfu and Sivota island

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BOOK NOW AND REVEAL YOUR PERFECT STAY

CALL OUR SECRET AGENTS AT 04 389 8999 Every week look out for new staycation deals on www.dnatatravel.com, call our Secret Agents on 04 389 8999, or come visit us in store.

Discounted staycation deals from AED145pp, offers include FREE room upgrades, FREE half board, spa discounts, kids can stay and eat free and much more...

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Weekends Staycations and short-haul escapes

HANG OUT Suspend disbelief and succumb to mother nature at Anantara Kalutara Resort on Sri Lanka's picturesque southwest coast.

A tropical modernist retreat inspired by renowned local architect Geoffrey Bawa, its utterly beguiling setting has the added distinction of being the only resort to offer panoramic Indian Ocean and Kalu Ganga estuary views. Enough said. worldtravellermagazine.com 53

WEEKENDS

CULTURE TRIP

Odeon of Herodes Atticus Photo @Thomas Daskalakis

Let us reacquaint you with this culture spot that’s ideally placed for a mind-nourishing mini break

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ATHENS

HISTORICAL SITES In the heart of the city lies the famous Acropolis.

These ancient hilltop ruins, widely considered the birthplace of democracy, are home to several historic buildings including the standout Parthenon. Be sure to arrive early to beat the crowds that gather to admire this sculptural feat. To admire a blend of old and new, head to Astir Beach (a favourite holiday spot among the Athenian elite just 20 minutes south of the city centre), where the Temple Apollo Zoster sits just a stone’s throw from the sparkling sea.

MUSEUMS AND ART GALLERIES Back at the Acropolis, brush-up on your Grecian history at the Acropolis Museum (the Chisel and Memory exhibition is running until 31 October).

Next, head downtown to the Benaki Museum in the downtown area. This compelling culture spot has a lively line-up of exhibitions and events, as well as an impressive collection of Islamic art.

Check out The Same River Twice: Contemporary Art in Athens exhibition from two locally-based artists, which focuses on the city's evolving artistic landscape. Trendy creative hangout Trii Art Hub (in Koukaki opposite the National Museum of Modern Art) is the place to go to view works by emerging artists.

THIS MONTH'S HIGHLIGHT The city's annual Athens and Epidaurus Festival is running from June to October, with artists including Andrea Bocelli and Florence and the Machine taking to the stage.

Performances take place at various venues, including the ancient theatres of the Odeon Herodes Atticus and Epidaurus. Hot tickets this month are the Opera Gala (28) and Prometheus

by Aeschylus (29 and 30). ticketmaster.gr

ARTISAN FINDS Athens is a famous hub for pottery and earthenware, and there are plenty of places to shop for ceramics. At Trabala Studio in Koukaki, you can pick out pieces that have been handcrafted before your eyes. A destination where olive trees thrive, it's natural that olive oil is also a popular buy – you'll find a number of shops selling it in Plaka and Monastiraki.

LOCAL FLAVOUR Dine at the critically acclaimed ManiMani in Plaka, where traditional dishes are served with a modern twist. And don’t miss the home-style cooking and live Greek music at Tavern Klimataria in Theatrou – a rustic restaurant open since 1927.

The Margi

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WHERE TO STAY The family-run The Margi luxury boutique in Vouliagmeni places you steps away from the sandy beaches yet within easy reach of the city's historical sites. Design hotel AthensWas, in the heart of the city, is a sound choice for art buffs.

YOUR GUIDE TO DUBAI’S MUST-HAVE VISITOR EXPERIENCES www.dxbcityexpert.com

5

long weekend the

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This page: The Kingdom of Bahrain Š Bahrain Tourism and Exhibitions Authority Opposite: Sheikh Isa Bin Ali House in Muharraq Š Bahrain Tourism and Exhibitions Authority

Bahrain

A fascinating knit of age-old tradition and modernity, this Gulf island draws you in with its wave of contrasts

LONG WEEKEND

Known as The Land of the Two Seas, the Kingdom of Bahrain is something of a double-sided coin. You’ll find all the trademarks of modern Arab opulence here – stylish mega malls and daringlyhigh skyscrapers – but beyond all that glitz and glamour, intriguing historic sites and a burgeoning culture scene speak loudly of the city’s proud heritage.

Long considered the epicentre of the Gulf’s pearling past, Bahrain has been the hub for the world’s richest oyster beds for centuries, an asset that shaped the island's fortunes for millennia.

It’s also home to one of the oldest civilisations in the Middle East, the Dilmun civilisation, where ancient burial mounds that date back to 3000 BCE can be found in A’ali village. Today the kingdom boasts its own Formula 1 Grand Prix, a thriving art scene and a globally diverse mosaic of fantastic cuisines. This multi-layered and multicultural destination is a hidden gem often overlooked by travellers but scratch the surface and you’ll find an allencompassing adventure.

While it may maintain a lower-key reputation among its Gulf neighbours, Bahrain has its own share of heavyweight attractions and therein lies the kingdom’s genuine charm. Here’s how to craft an itinerary that takes in all the best bits…

STYLISH SLEEPS

Sink into luxury at these chic abodes Jumeirah Royal Saray

Perched on a five-hectare private island in the kingdom’s capital, Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay is an architectural gem that has a great view of the bay – you can opt to arrive by boat for a glamorous entrance.

A short cab ride away,

Jumeirah Royal Saray sits confidently on a private beach in Manama’s new Seef district, beautifully enclosed by the Arabian Sea. The hotel has 167 guestrooms, including two Royal Suites and a variety of impressive restaurants to choose

from. Also located in Seef, The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain has its own private beach, lagoon and island as well as 11 dining venues, including an authentic Mexican restaurant with vibrant décor inspired by Frida Kahlo. Over on the western shores, Sofitel

The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain

Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa Hotel is home to the only sea water spa in the GCC – ideal for a detox session without the hardship. Exciting dining options and nightlife are also on menu, from local specialities to the sway of belly dancing.

worldtravellermagazine.com 57

spice it up Savour the true flavours of the city

DOWN TO A FINE ART Discover the city’s artistic flair

EMMAWASH. This eclectic bistro first began as the dream of two childhood friends who wanted to bring the flavours of their homes to the restaurant scene. Today, it's one of the most beloved eateries in the kingdom for its homely ambience. Tuck into Bahraini favourites such as balaleet – a traditional sweet and savoury dish – and beef tikka. For those who wish to end their meal on a sweet note, qayamat is the dish to plump for.

CHAI CAFÉ. Chai, meaning tea in Arabic, has been a breakfast staple in Bahraini culture for years. And when you can get your sweet and milky karak Chai in an edible biscuit cup, visiting this cosy café in the morning is a no-brainer.

SAFFRON BY JENA. Playing testament to the unique flavours of authentic Bahraini cuisine, this family-friendly restaurant combines the old with the new to bring you a contemporary twist on culinary traditions passed down the generations. You won’t find a menu, but a bunch of tasty, traditional dishes served in customary Bahraini fashion.

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La Fontaine Centre of Contemporary Art. Capturing the grand essence of a European château while maintaining the charm of authentic Gulf Islamic architecture, this 150-year-old creative hub blends the distinctive work of traditional artistry with innovative contemporary delights.

With a yoga and Pilates studio, a fine-dining restaurant, an open-air amphitheatre and a spa within the complex, exploring here can easily be a day-long affair.

Arabesque Art Gallery.

Widely recognised as the main outlet for antique Middle Eastern art, this long-standing gallery exhibits the oil and watercolour paintings of its owner, Wahab Al Koheji, as he depicts everyday life in Bahrain.

An added bonus is its great selection of 19th

century lithographs created by David Robert during his long tours of the region.

Al Al-Jasra Handicraft Centre. From brightlycoloured woven baskets, tapestry and mats to exquisitely painted stained glass mosaics and pottery, learn more about the city’s indigenous art forms as you watch local artisans perfect their crafts. Love what you see? Craftworks can be bought directly from their maker or from the on-site gift shop.

Shop 'til you drop Bring home these cultural gems

Slip on your comfiest shoes and pound the cobblestone alleyways of a market that still evokes the ambience of ancient times, Manama Souq. Here, you’ll find quaint little souvenir shops that display local goodies, from exotic Persian rugs to spices and shisha pipes. But you can’t really visit the Pearl of the Gulf without checking out Gold City, a pearl-lover’s paradise overflowing with precious gemstones of all shapes, sizes and colours.

A simple custom-made gold pendant of your name in Arabic is a must-take-home keepsake. Haggle your way until you reach Kingdom of Perfumes and watch the mesmerising way a perfumer can mix seemingly random oils to produce the very aroma you requested.

LONG WEEKEND

OUTDOOR ALLURE Enjoy an action-packed weekend PEARL DIVING. For more than 2,000 years, Bahrain’s pearls have been prized as one of the most beautiful natural gems in the world.

Dive into the warm azure waters of the Gulf and unravel Bahrain’s legacy while seeking underwater treasures. There are four diving sites to discover. Simply don your scuba gear and set sail from Ras Rayya to collect some oysters – you can keep any treasures inside.

BAHRAIN INTERNATIONAL CIRCUIT. With its roaring engines and thrilling atmosphere, daredevils are in for a ride as they watch top drivers jostle for a prime position at this impressive motorsports venue, which hosts the annual Formula 1 Gulf Air Bahrain Grand Prix. Better yet, buckle up for an exciting drive around the karting track.

ARABIAN HORSE RIDING. Experience a true taste of Arabia as you ride a pure blood Arabian horse across the stunning landscape.

Book your experience with Ghazwan Equestrian Centre and enjoy a picturesque sunset gallop along Karbabad Beach.

Opposite page, from top: The traditional Bahraini dish Balaleet; La Fontaine Centre of Contemporary Art; display of traditional Bahraini clothes in Manama Souq This page from top: Pearl diving in the Gulf © Jumeirah Royal Saray Hotel; UNESCO World Heritage Site Qal'at Al Bahrain

insider tips

Words: Habiba Azab

Jeremy Tutt shares insider tips and tricks on exploring the city “Whether it's pearl diving with Scubalife, making waves at Durrat Marina Yacht Club, or just lounging on the sand, the azure waters around the island are stunning and should be enjoyed. I particularly like the beaches at Jumeirah Royal Saray and The RitzCarlton, Bahrain, however there are a lot of other options, including the ART Rotana in Amwaj Islands as well as Coral Beach Club at the Coral Bay Resort. A trip to Hawar Island is also a must-do for all nature lovers and wildlife adventurers.

Alternatively, check out Adliya, the bohemian neighbourhood is the place to go for a gourmet meal. I love the Thai at Hash House and the curry at Lanterns is consistently good, whereas Re Asian Cuisine on the 48th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel offers spectacular views.”

MANY MOONS AGO

northern side of the kingdom and unravel the beauty of one of the world’s largest Take a stroll through mosques, Al Fateh history and discover the Mosque, as well as one beauty of a bygone era of the first museums The cradle of one in the gulf, Bahrain of the most ancient National Museum. civilisations in the After you explore Middle East, the Dilmun its diverse range of civilisation, Bahrain is treasures, including steeped in a 6000-year artefacts uncovered history. Explore the at local archaeological

sites, make UNESCO World Heritage Site Qal’at Al Bahrain your next stop. Believed to have been the capital of the ancient Dilmun Empire, soak up breath-taking views of the sparkling blue waters and the city skyline at one of the most prolific archaeological digs in the Arabian Gulf.

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WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI

THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI...

Museum hopping Renowned for its forward-thinking art scene and landmark institutions, the UAE capital is a top spot for exciting exhibitions…

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The oldest and most significant heritage site in the UAE capital, Qasr Al Hosn has been carefully restored as a cultural monument dedicated to keeping the emirate’s history alive. The Inner Fort exhibition tells the story of the site and all it has witnessed, offering a glimpse into everyday life in the fort, which was once home to the ruling family. The Outer Palace displays the stories of the people who lived in there through film, interactive displays and spoken testimonies. alhosn.ae

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Relive your college days by paying a trip the NYU Abu Dhabi campus, which is home to its very own academic museumgallery showcasing international and local exhibitions. Art buffs can expect to see experimental pieces that step outside the box. This September, the Speculative Landscapes exhibition is set to do just that, with installations by four UAE-based artists that offer an ethereal take on the natural environment. From 16 September to 7 December. nyuad-artgallery.org

Photo: Qasr Al Hosn

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If you have kids in tow, you can send them on an interactive educational journey thanks to A Costume Adventure at the Children’s Museum at Louvre Abu Dhabi. Little learners can view the original artworks on display and complete various challenges, collecting accessories to transform them into real-life versions of the art. Mission complete, head out into the museum galleries to see all the great exhibits. Suitable for ages 4-10 (a toddler space for under 4s is also available). louvreabudhabi.ae

© Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi / Photo by Hufton+Crow. Architect: Jean Nouvel.

DESTINATION: LOUVRE ABU DHABI

SEE HUMANITY IN A NEW LIGHT Louvre Abu Dhabi brings different cultures together to shine light on the shared stories of human creativity.

Admission: AED 63, children under 13 free

BOOK A DAY AWAY louvreabudhabi.ae

WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI

STAYCATION

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai Reach for the sky at the world’s tallest five-star hotel ROOMS & SUITES Wake up in the clouds and revel in stunning floor-to-ceiling views of the city's futuristic skyline or the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf. Sleek suites boast marshmallow soft beddings and soundproof windows for a serene slumber, while Executive rooms come with perks including complimentary drinks, a continental breakfast and afternoon tea in the lounge.

THE FOOD Foodies are spoilt for choice with more than 14 dining venues offering a selection of delicacies from around the world. Splurge on a unique sky-high dinner at Prime68 steakhouse before heading for a glitzy nightcap at Vault.

To spice it up, the recently opened Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra serves traditional recipes from ancient India with a contemporary twist.

THE ACTIVITIES Discover the shiniest gems the city has to offer with top attractions including The Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and Dubai Opera right around the corner. After a day out and about, pamper yourself back at the hotel with a mini refresh at Saray Spa. Soothing body massages, bespoke facials and holistic rituals draw upon the spa's Arabian heritage for a top-totoe rejuvenating experience.

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 62 worldtravellermagazine.com

25% off your stay and free breakfast.

Take advantage of an exclusive summer offer* at the world’s tallest 5-star hotel. Enjoy a 25% off your stay and a complimentary breakfast for stays until 30 September 2019. Sign up for free as a Marriott Bonvoy™ member and unlock a world of summer adventures across more than 250 hotels in Middle East and Africa.

Available at more than 250 hotels across the Middle East and Africa. Join Marriott Bonvoy™ to take advantage of this exclusive offer.

Terms and Conditions: Only valid when booking directly on Marriott.com or via its reservation centers. When booking through other channels, as well as when no Marriott Bonvoy membership is provided, the discount is 15% off and breakfast is not included.

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI

STAYCATION

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Soar to new heights with this royally memorable staycation ROOMS & SUITES Timeless tradition and Arabian decadence combine to create a regal experience for all guests. Start by calling upon your private butler (a signature service of the hotel) to help you unpack in the world’s highest suspended suite.

The Abu Dhabi Suite is ideal for hosting gatherings with its three bedrooms, private cinema and spa. Host a special occasion here from Dhs300 per person.

THE FOOD Gourmands will delight in the creative flair and flavour at each of the restaurants here. Dine at Villa Toscana for authentic Tuscan and Italian cuisine. Inspired by tradition, you can expect dishes handcrafted to perfection. For tastes of the Mediterranean and sunset views, head to Azura where we recommend you start with the baked feta and follow with a signature table grill.

ACTIVITIES The littlest of staycationers should head to Treasure Island Children’s Club for an exciting host of supervised activities and games. Meanwhile, mum and dad can get in the zone for some serious summer relaxation with the Remède Spa Shared Indulgence package. And as the sun begins to set, enjoy some family fun looking out on the clear waters of the Arabian Gulf.

To find out more, call +971 2 694 4444 or stregisabudhabi.com 64 worldtravellermagazine.com

Abu Dhabi’s Finest Urban Resort The St. Regis Abu Dhabi soars to new heights of splendour and service beyond expectation. Located at the vibrant heart of Abu Dhabi with a 200 metre stretch of pristine beach, overlooking the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf which is home to the Nation Riviera Beach Club at the finest address in the city.

Š2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL

STAYCATION

Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel Where British hospitality meets Dubai-style luxury ROOMS AND SUITES Check in to a luxurious room at this Palm Jumeirah property, which will win you over with its British charm.

Larger families will find all the creature comforts they need inside the one- or two-bedroom family suites. Unwind in the separate living area to experience a 'home away from home' feel. Book a staycation over Eid Al Adha for just Dhs650 per night with breakfast.

THE FOOD From sumptuous breakfast buffets to light lunches, good food is a given at this five-star hotel. Enjoy a British supper at the award-winning Great British Restaurant (GBR). For a spiceladen affair, indulge in the Mugal-era menu of Mumbai's showstopping Khyber restaurant. Or get dressed up to dine at West 14th Steakhouse, offering scrumptious steaks and delicate fish.

THE ACTIVITIES Little visitors aged 4-12 will be fully engrossed in the DUKESY Kids Club, where edutainment activities provide hours of fun. While the kids are busy, you can make the most of the top-notch leisure facilities. Venture to the private beach for a dip in the sea, bring out your playful side by floating along the Lazy River, or escape the heat by retreating to the indoor pool.

To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or royalhideaway.com 66 worldtravellermagazine.com

AED

650 *

per night

Kids Go Free 9 - 17 August 2019 YOUR PACKAGE INCLUDES COMPLIMENTARY: • Upgrade to premium room

• Breakfast buffet

• Lunch or Dinner

• Access to Infinity Pool, Indoor Pool, Private Beach, Fitness Centre and Lazy River • Shuttle service to Dubai Marina, Mall of the Emirates and Dubai Mall MAKE IT SPECIAL & STAY LONGER Stay 2 or more nights and get an additional 10% discount *Price excludes Tourism Dirham Fee. *Subject to applicable taxes. * Up to 2 kids under 12 years go free.

+ 971 (0) 4 455 1100

reservations.dubai@dukeshotel.com

DUKES THE PALM, a Royal Hideaway Hotel Oceana | Palm Jumeirah | P.O. Box 120015 | Dubai UAE Tel: +971 (0)4 455 1111 | Email: Info.Dubai@dukeshotel.com @dukesthepalm| royalhideaway.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES

STAYCATION

Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites For a longer stay, make yourself at home in a stylish suite overlooking Dubai Marina THE ROOMS If you're planning on staying in Dubai for a while, or simply appreciate the convenience of having your own kitchen, the stylish suites at this four-star property in Dubai Marina is just the ticket. There are one-, two- and threebedroom suites available, each featuring a modern kitchen and a sleek marble bathroom with an oversized tub. Room service is available around the clock.

THE FOOD Jump-start you day with a cup of coffee and a pastry at Counter Culture CafĂŠ, which, like all the apartments, offers free Wi-Fi so you can stay well connected to the wider world. For hearty British fare with a twist, The Croft is the place to go. On the 52nd floor, Observatory Bar & Grill is where you should head for classic dishes and crafted drinks, with panoramic views of the waterfront.

THE ACTIVITIES Your fitness regime needn't suffer, as all guests enjoy access to the fitness centre.

When you want to unwind, head to Saray Spa, which offers a range of pampering treatments, such as the signature Saray Arabic Coffee Awakener, which includes a body scrub, mask and massage. Get out and explore Dubai, including Jumeirah Beach Residence and Dubai Media City which are just a short stroll away.

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 68 worldtravellermagazine.com

C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour

Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.

1 INSPIRED BY

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Valid from: Now until 31 August 2019. worldtravellermagazine.com 71

DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS Atlantis, The Palm

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How to book

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On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.

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THROUGH THE LENS Vatnajรถkull Ice Cave, Iceland "Ice caves in Iceland are an incredible sight to behold.

The intricate patterns and formations of the cave walls melt and freeze each year, creating beautiful designs that simply take your breath away.

The trek to get to these caves often requires a long hike across the glaciers, but it's definitely worth the effort. On this visit, our experienced guide drove us to the edge of Vatnajokull where we hiked two miles across the glacier and eventually made it into the cave entrance to capture this beautiful display of light illuminating the glacial walls.

My local friend Hรถrรฐur here is posing for scale."

Travel photographer John Weatherby loves to travel because: "Exploring the natural beauty of the world is incredibly liberating." @whereisweatherby, weatherbyphotography.com

EMAIL US YOUR BEST TRAVEL PHOTOS in high-res jpeg format, along with the stories behind them to habiba@hotmedia.me and you may end up being featured on this page

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A two-night stay at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort Occupying a premium spot on the East Crescent of Palm Jumeriah, this Thai-style resort is famous for its luxurious overwater villas. Guests can enjoy dining at Pan Asian restaurant Mekong, or rejuvenate with a traditional hammam treatment at the spa. We've teamed up to offer one lucky reader a two-night stay complete with a spa treatment. To find out more and to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win (terms & conditions apply).

TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, inspire your next trip…

1

The Knowledge.

Read our handy how-tos, from getting to grips with travel insurance to helping kids beat jet lag, and more.

2

Staycations.

Take a peek inside these top hotels and resorts on your doorstep, and then book your next mini break.

3

Insider Guides.

Check out our in-the-know travel edits of some of the most popular holiday destinations on our radar.

worldtravellermagazine.com 75

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Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

Corner Suite

Kimpton Fitzroy London Hotel

From its prime location aside the leafy garden squares and storied streets of Bloomsbury (which house the fabulous British Museum and gave their name to the famous circle of writers, artists and intellects, the Bloomsbury Set), to the 19th century landmark building it occupies, there is much to love about this beautifully designed hotel – not least its impeccably attired suites. There's no better place to soak-in all this rich history than from the bedroom-based bathtub of the Corner Suite and its windows to Russell Square below.

76 worldtravellermagazine.com

AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD, WHERE THE SKY SWIMS IN SEA BLUE th i s i s l an d s a n ctu ary we l co m e s yo u wi th b re e ze a n d b i rd s o n g , ca n d l e l i t d i n n e rs a n d i n f i n i te vi e ws .

Ju s t d ayd re a m s awa y f ro m t h e b u zz o f t h e cap i ta l , yo u ca n l o s e yo u rs e l f i n t h e p e a ce f u l l u xu ry o f yo u r o wn p e rf e ct u n i ve rs e .

YOUR E X T RAORDI NA RY STORY

Zaya Nurai Island Resort #InAbuDhabi

visitabudhabi.ae

Indian cuisine VIHIĂ RIH

Now Open From Mumbai to New Delhi, Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, a pioneering contemporary Indian restaurant, has made its debut at the world’s tallest 5-star hotel.

Join us and experience a one-of-a-kind signature 12-course menu!

Open daily from 6pm until 11.30pm

JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T +971.4.414.3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com | masalalibrarydxb