Oman Insider - 2019

OMAN ABU DHABI

INSIDER

& RESORTS & SIGHTS

2019

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EDITORIAL Editorial Director John Thatcher Managing Editor Faye Bartle Contributing Editor Jeremy Lawrence Content Writers Habiba Azab Sophia Dyer ART Art Director Kerri Bennett Senior Designer Hiral Kapadia COMMERCIAL Managing Director Victoria Thatcher General Manager David Wade Commercial Director Rawan Chehab Senior Advertising Manager Mia Cachero PRODUCTION Production Manager Muthu Kumar Cover image Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort Photography credits: Getty Images and Phocal Media, with special thanks to Oman’s Ministry of Tourism Brought to you by

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A traditional Omani fort.

Photo courtesy of Oman’s Ministry of Tourism

WELCOME TO OMAN

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he oldest independent state in the Arab world, Oman is famous for its natural beauty, rich culture and ancient history. From the majestic Al Hajar Mountains to the sparkling sea, the Sultanate’s landscape draws adventure seekers near and far. Delve into the tapestry of sights, including the largest sand desert in the Arabian Peninsula (The Empty Quarter), sample the local fare, and stay in style at your pick of the country’s growing list of luxury hotels and resorts. From Musandam to Salalah, our insider guide will help you curate your perfect trip to this captivating country...

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HOTELS & RESORTS

CULTURE & SIGHTS

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RESTAURANTS

ACTIVITIES

Whether you’re seeking serenity in the mountains or want to stay right along the beach, let us help you find your suite spot at Oman’s luxury hotels

Meals here are packed full of flavour – be sure to try the Omani lobster, as well as the frankincense ice cream. And there are plenty more options to whet the appetite, from Italian to Asian and beyond

Discover the Sultanate’s rich history and learn more about local traditions, by ticking these must-see sights and experiences off your to-do list

Home to stunning natural scenery, Oman is a haven for outdoors enthusiasts. Read our pick of the best activities, and then set off on your own thrilling adventure 3 Welcome

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HOTELS

STAY HAPPY Whatever style of holiday you're seeking, the Sultanate of Oman has a home from home for you

5 Hotels

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here’s a growing number of hotels and resorts competing for your attention in Oman.

The charmingly rustic Shatti Al Qurum beachfront neighbourhood is home to a new cutting-edge hotel in the shape of W Muscat, bringing an updated flavour to the pastoral surroundings. All the rooms offer sea views, while dining venues include succulent steaks at CHAR, funky beats and drinks at Siddharta Lounge by Buddha-bar and alfresco fun at WET Deck.

To immerse yourself in lush panoramas, InterContinental Muscat will serve you well. A coastal oasis, you'll feel instantly at ease upon seeing its groomed gardens (35 acres, no less). Newly refreshed rooms welcome you in style, and the resort has two tennis courts, an Olympic-sized swimming pool, and all the delights of the beach on the doorstep. Plus, you can leave it all behind for a taste of the city whenever you please, due to the hotel’s central address.

A taste of the good life can also be found at the stunning The Chedi Muscat.

Denniston Architects, spearheaded by renowned visionary Jean-Michel Gathy, were the creative minds behind the resort’s inspired designs. There are eight places to eat and drink, including The

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Restaurant, which boasts an elegant dining room and an inviting outdoor patio.

Ease yourself into a state of relaxation at the 13-suite Balinese spa and take a dip in one of three swimming pools (we rate the 103-metre Long Pool). Set in a sprawling garden oasis dotted with 158 Omani influenced guestrooms and villas, it’s a truly magical setting.

Just a few kilometres along the same stretch of coastline, Grand Hyatt Muscat is a beautiful, serene hotel set around a fabulous pool and lazy river that snakes its way round the entire beachside pool area. But that’s not all this 280-room hotel has to offer – its restaurants afford plenty to whet your appetite (from Italian to Indonesian fare), while a fitness centre and tennis courts ensure you can burn off any extra calories.

Around 45-minutes from the airport, Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa is equally sumptuous. Take your pick of two hotels at this sea-hugging hideaway.

The family-focused Al Waha lives up to its name, with several swimming pools merging to form a serene oasis. Al Bandar, on the other hand, is a draw card for foodies with a roster of restaurants to dine your way around (head to Al Tanoor to taste authentic Arabian flavours). You can float between the two on the lazy river.

Opening page: Al Baleed Resort Salalah

by Anantara This page, top to bottom: InterContinental Muscat; W Muscat; The Chedi Muscat Opposite: Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa

“Float between the two hotels on the lazy river�

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DISCOVER THE PEAK OF WORLD-CLASS LUXURY AND EXPERIENCE THE HEART OF OMANI HOSPITALITY.

A rare jewel in the rocky contours of the vast Saiq Plateau on Oman’s fabled Green Mountain, the highest five star resort in the Middle East has opened its doors. In this extraordinary destination, the true source of adventure is revealed through Anantara’s distinctive natural luxury and innovative Arabian hospitality.

An exhilarating escape for culture and history enthusiasts, offering 115 guestrooms and pool villas of luxurious authenticity as well as culinary experiences with six dining outlets to choose from. Guests can continue their journey at the Anantara Spa complete with a Hammam as well as a fitness centre, tennis court, kids club and teens club. Bespoke outdoor adventure sports providing cultural, historical, and environmental activities will be widely on offer and available for all of the guests to experience.

Telephone: +968 25218000 Email: reservations.aaja@anantara.com

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

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Another stunning location nearby, Al Bustan Palace, A Ritz-Carlton Hotel is nestled between the coastline and the Al Hajar Mountains. Reopened last year after a thorough renovation, its neck-craning 38-metre-high domed lobby sets the scene for the luxuries to be found inside.

Beyond its walls, lush gardens are dotted with five swimming pools, the largest of which is punctuated by palm tree islands.

Unwind the Arabian way in the hammam rooms at Six Senses Spa. North of the airport, the modern Al Mouj development has an aspirational mix of green spaces, waterways, shops and restaurants, as well as a marina and Greg Norman-designed golf course. It's also home to the luxurious beachfront Kempinski Hotel Muscat Oman, offering 10 world-class restaurants and bars, swimming pools, a tennis court, watersports centre and spa. Stay here and you will have everything you need for an adventurous, stimulating holiday.

The Sultanate also has some wonderful dive sites and at Millennium Resort Mussanah you’re in one of the best spots to delve below the surface. There's a Padi centre here, as well as a marina where you can take part in watersports, go sailing, embark on a snorkelling excursion, or even charter a yacht. Other outdoor facilities include an 18-hole mini-golf course, tennis courts, pools, a zipline and a fun floating waterpark. For getting out and about, the Rustaq, Mussanah and Nakhal forts,

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the Al Hajar Mountains, and Daymaniyat Islands nature reserve are all nearby.

Heading further north to Musandam, a mountainous peninsula separated from the rest of the country by the UAE, Six Senses Zighy Bay is like something out of a James Bond movie, with individual villas spread out at the foot of jagged mountains, and direct access to your own wonderful slice of pristine beach.

Summer 2019 upgrades are set to make the property even more stunning than it already is – if that’s even possible. Take part in hiking, biking and more, or visit between January and March when it's prime time for whale shark watching.

Back on the mainland, you can admire more spectacular mountain vistas if you head inland to the fabled Green Mountain where Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort, one of the world’s highest luxury resorts, awaits. Unsurprisingly, the spa and hammam rituals are top-notch, while at night you can star-gaze from the viewing platform where Princess Diana once stood in 1986. You can also dine here on the cliff-edge, in a stunning setting reserved for you alone, choosing from menus prepared by your personal chef and served by your butler.

Alila Jabal Akhdar offers an incredible gateway to the area’s history, culture and nature. The resort is surrounded by mountain peaks, small hamlets, uninhabited villages, caves and canyons.

With architecture inspired by ancient forts

From top: Al Bustan Palace, A Ritz-Carlton Hotel; Six Senses Zighy Bay; Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort

DIVE INTO LUXURY

Nestled between the Al Hajar Mountains and the Gulf of Oman, The Chedi Muscat is your tranquil hideaway in the Sultanate

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et within 21 acres of elegantly manicured gardens, this five-star resort beckons with its timeless design that blends Asian and Omani influences. Just a 15-minute drive from Muscat International Airport, check into a Deluxe Club Terrace Room where stunning views of the gardens, and large open-plan bathroom invite you in for ultimate relaxation. For families, the Chedi Club Suite offers panoramic views of the Gulf or gardens, a separate living and bedroom area that can sleep two children, and breakfast included.

Gourmands will be keen to discover the resort’s eight restaurants and lounges. For a fine dining experience, The Restaurant’s chandelier-lit dining room, complete with

live pianist and large bay windows set a sophisticated tone. Here, you can taste flavours from around the globe served alongside an award-wining drinks menu.

The Arabian Courtyard (open October to April) specialises in traditional flavours – think mezze platters and shawarmas served to the sounds of the oud. During the winter, venture outdoors to The Beach Restaurant (open from October to April) and dine on creative seafood dishes along the shore at dusk.

There are plenty of ways to stay active, including swimming some brisk lengths of The Long Pool (the region’s largest pool stretching 103 metres), and The Chedi Pool, which is reserved for adults only.

Kids can splash around in the dedicated

family pool, while those in need of some pampering can head to The Spa for a relaxing ritual. The signature Chedi Jade Massage sets two therapists to work on soothing away deep muscle tension.

The on-site Health Club has a large gym and hosts a variety of classes including yoga and pilates. And if you want to head outdoors, adventurous souls can embark on a bespoke tour, such as the four-wheel drive expedition to Oman’s highest peak, Jebel Shams, and the natural pools of Wadi Shab. However, you wish to spend your days at the Chedi, a taste of Arabian hospitality is assured.

To find out more, call +968 24 524400 or visit ghmhotels.com

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combined with contemporary design, this is a uniquely relaxing environment in which to enjoy the breathtaking surroundings, or indulge in gourmet food and soothing spa treatments.

Sahab Resort & Spa is located in the same region, on the Saiq Plateau of the Green Mountains of Oman. Built on the canyon edge at an altitude of 2,000 metres, summer temperatures here are up to 15°C cooler than at sea level. Soak up the view, gaze at the captivating valleys, and breathe in the pure air for an allnatural way to unwind.

Journeying south to the wild and beautiful Dhofar province and its capital city Salalah, you'll find ancient frankincense routes and vibrant Indian Ocean marine life. Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara occupies a premier location between a private beach and a freshwater lagoon, providing the perfect base for exploring. Modelled on Oman’s coastal fortresses, garden walkways are lined with palms and water features, which you can marvel at while relaxing in the infinity pool. Once you’re suitably chilled, and have visited the spa, make the short journey to Al Baleed Archaeological Park and the Museum of the Land of Frankincense Rooms. After that, you can return to the hotel for drinks on the beachfront terrace.

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Discover more of the picturesque coastline at Salalah Rotana Resort.

Fronting the ocean, and set amid lagoons, water features and man-made canals, it's an immersive experience like no other.

Sightsee by day and rejuvenate at Zen spa before sipping sundowners at The Beach Bar & Restaurant, and embarking on a culinary journey at Silk Road.

Moving back up the coast to another far-flung resort, the splendid Masira Island Resort on Masirah Island is a great base from which to enjoy the pick of Oman’s natural charms. The island is magnificently diverse and offers a wide range of watersports (the surfing here is excellent), as well as excursions into the desert and the hills. The area is also famous for housing the world’s largest population of Loggerhead turtles. With just 21 rooms, you can be sure that the service here will always be attentive.

Going full circle to the thriving heart of Muscat, Grand Millennium Muscat is close to the airport, and connected directly to Muscat Grand Mall via a sky bridge. Stay here for easy access to Muscat’s landmark tourist sites, the business district and beaches, and also to enjoy the pool, badminton court and Zanta spa, where you can rejuvenate after a day's sightseeing. Dining wise, Taybat offers contemporary world cuisine while

Clockwise from top: Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara; Salalah Rotana Resort

Bahriyat has an incredible selection of fresh seafood.

Also within easy access to the airport, Crowne Plaza Muscat OCEC is convenient and charming. The IHG Airport Booth is manned around the clock and will ensure you get a speedy shuttle bus to the hotel. The team will also assist with all your arrival requirements. Once there, you’ll find a 24-hour gym, swimming pool, and spa. If you want to venture outdoors, hiking, tennis courts, scuba diving and snorkelling are all within easy reach. In other words, you’ll want for nothing.

In the heart of the capital’s thriving business district, Centara Muscat Hotel Oman is another property offering the best of both worlds. With an excellent fitness centre and rooftop pool, you’ll stay in shape during your trip, which will serve you well for exploring the city on your doorstep. Spa Cenvaree celebrates Ayurvedic and Thai wellbeing rituals, while dining venues include Akdeniz Turkish restaurant and Tiptara, which serves a crowd-pleasing mix of Mediterranean, Omani and Asian flavours.

A great value choice, the Holiday Inn Muscat Al Seeb ticks a lot of boxes.

Just a 15-minute drive from the airport, downtown Muscat is a half-hour drive to the east. It’s also next door to City Center Muscat shopping mall, which has a Magic Planet entertainment centre, ideal for those with kids in tow.

For a premium spot overlooking the mountians and lush valleys, the Hormuz Grand Muscat, A Radisson Collection Hotel is your go-to. Set amid an oasis of trees, all guestrooms and suites are well kitted out with understated décor and stylish bathrooms. The hotel's eastmeets-west concept results in some fabulous food, including northern Indian cuisine at Qureshi Bab-Al-Hind. Plus, the tension busting Thai and Balinese massages at iSpa are the perfect way to unwind after a busy day of sightseeing.

Having experienced the best hospitality, you’re sure to fly out of Oman with a firm resolve to come back to the Jewel of Arabia as soon as possible.

Clockwise from top: Crowne Plaza Muscat OCEC; Holiday Inn Muscat Al Seeb

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WORLD TRAVELLER X KEMPINSKI HOTEL MUSCAT

STAYCATION

Kempinski Hotel Muscat A focus on wellness, adventure and fine fare combine to deliver a memorable stay in Oman THE ROOMS A gateway to an authentic Omani adventure, this five-star hotel situated in the luxurious Al Mouj development in the heart of Muscat blends local traditions with European luxury. Many of its 310 guestrooms and suites offer stunning views of the sea. For large families, the suites offer generous space, featuring a substantial living and dining area in addition to a bedroom and walk-in closet.

THE FOOD There are 10 restaurants and lounges to enjoy. If you're a fan of Thai street food, Soi Soi is the place to go for a casual meal that will transport your tastebuds to Bangkok.

Head to Bukhara for authentic North Indian cuisine with a contemporary twist – the live tandoori oven offers a sneak peek of the sizzling dishes being prepared. For all-daydining, The Kitchen suits all with its delicious mixture of Levantine and European cuisine.

THE ACTIVITIES Unwind at Kempinski The Spa, which offers pampering treatments inspired by the seasons. Or, head to Zale beach club and lounge, the only one of its kind in Al Mouj, which serves international fare by day and transforms into a lively venue by night.

Keep the fun times happening with a game of ten-pin bowling at Cosmic Bowling. And if you need some kid-free time, little ones can be entertained at Dippy's Clubhouse.

To find out more, call +968 24 98 5000 or visit kempinski.com/muscat

THE RESTAURANTS

LOCAL FLAVOUR From dining on the cliff edge to tasting authentic Omani recipes – here’s our pick of the best restaurants

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s with most Gulf countries, Oman has its share of decent restaurants inside high-end hotels. But let’s begin our culinary journey by highlighting some of the best-known independent venues in Muscat itself.

If your sole aim is to sample genuine Omani cuisine, seek out Kargeen Restaurant (+968 2469 9055), which is a firm favourite among locals and expats alike. Named after the Omani word for ‘little wooden cottage’, the décor is characterised by dark wood and tapestries, while outside you can enjoy a beautiful candlelit dinner on the lawn. Order the traditional shuwa dish (usually saved for special occasions) and you’ll be brought beef or lamb wrapped up tightly in banana leaves and sprinkled with a generous helping of herbs and spices. Served straight out of a smouldering underground oven, the dish was a staple for Bedouins and Omani villagers, who would cook their meat for up to 48 hours.

Turkish House Restaurant (+968 2448 8071) on Al Hadiqa Street is widely considered to serve some of the best Levantine cuisine in Muscat.

Don’t be fooled by the minimalist and unassuming décor – the food here is first rate, and in particular the seafood.

The grilled fish and shrimp tajin with red sauce, served with homemade bread, is a firm favourite, although many guests also choose from the sizeable selection of fresh seafood, including calamari, red snapper and Omani lobster. Wash it down with the fresh melon drink served in a whole honeydew melon.

The Indian influence is strong in Oman, and the cuisine is well represented at Kurkum (+968 2471 1143), located between the main entrance to Mutrah Souq and the impressive fort. This modern, fine dining restaurant has tables outside offering views of Port Sultan Qaboos, and a clean, crisp interior. The crab and fish dumplings, and chickpea mango with fresh coconut are just a couple of the many standout dishes.

For a cultural setting, head to Al Angham (+968 2207 7777) at Royal Opera House Muscat. Local dishes 18 Restaurants

Opening page: Sense on the Edge at Six Senses Zighy Bay This page from top: Takara at InterContinental Muscat; Al Maisan at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort Opposite from top: The Beach Restaurant at The Chedi Muscat; Tuscany at Grand Hyatt Muscat Overleaf: Mekong at Al Baleed Resort by Anantara

“Omani lobster is popular, as is the frankincense ice cream for dessert”

such as harees (coarsely-ground wheat mixed with meat), lamb stew and Omani lobster are popular, as is the frankincense ice cream for dessert.

Of course, there are plenty of fabulous restaurants to tempt you within the walls of the Sultanate’s luxury hotels. If the weather is forgiving enough, you can’t beat a seat outside at The Beach Restaurant (+968 2452 4343) at The Chedi Muscat. You’ll get a taste of the beach in more ways than one, with sparkling panoramas that are sure to catch your eye, and first-rate seafood (from Beluga caviar to plump oysters) to please the palate. We say go all out by sampling the degustation menu – it’ll give you a little more time to soak up the marvellous view.

If Italian tops your list, you’d do well to make a reservation at the awardwinning Tuscany (+968 2464 1234).

Located at Grand Hyatt Muscat, this restaurant has a terrace overlooking the pool and beach. All the pasta is made fresh and pizzas come straight out of a wood-fired oven. The tagliatelle lamb shank and lobster risotto are longstanding favourites, and the drinks list is decent.

You can taste authentic recipes from Oman, featuring ingredients harvested from the Arabian Sea and local farms, at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort’s Al Qalaa (+968 2521 8000). The Arabic restaurant is inspired by Khasab Castle in Musandam – think hanging lanterns and a sweeping mountain backdrop.

Alternatively, head to all-day dining spot Al Maisan (+968 2521 8000) for regional specialities.

If Oriental cuisine is your bag, seek out modern Japanese bites at Takara at InterContinental Muscat (+968 2468 0000). The hotel’s newest restaurant, you can expect a side of drama with your meal thanks to the teppenyaki area and sushi and sashimi bar. The hotel is also home to a Trader Vic’s, a lively spot for French Polynesian inspired fusion dishes and a selection of exotic drinks served in novelty cups.

Another Asian dining experience to tick off your list is China Mood (+968 2479 9666) in the majestic Al Bustan Palace, A Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

The inspired décor blends Chinese calligraphy and birdcages, with outdoor pagoda tents – all of which enhances the ambience. And when 19 Restaurants

“Mekong serves the flavourful cuisines of China, Thailand and Vietnam”

you do get down to ordering, you’ll find both Szechwan and Cantonese styles laid out before you. Try the crispy mushrooms and shrimp dim sum for starters while, for main, the crispy duck, lobster and sautéed king prawns all come highly recommended.

Over at Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa, Al Tanoor (+968 2477 6565) serves classic cuisines of the Arabian Gulf in a traditional Omani setting. A lavish buffet is laid out, but you can choose to dine à la carte if you prefer. You can also taste the locally caught seafood at Bait Al Bahar (+968 2477 6565), complete with uninterrupted views of the Omani Gulf.

Moving out of the capital, you’ll find even more restaurants with a view that are sure to tug at your taste buds.

For an elevated dining experience, there are few better places to start than Six Senses Zighy Bay’s signature restaurant Sense on the Edge (+968 2673 5555). Take a seat on its alfresco 20 Restaurants

terrace and you’ll find yourself at one with the mountainous landscape, sitting on a cliff top and admiring farreaching views of the sparkling sea.

The cuisine is just as spectacular as the vistas. Fresh fare comes plucked from the resort’s organic garden, with fish caught from the surrounding waters, and extra touches, such as local dates, ramping up the flavour.

Heading south to Salalah, and you’ll find Palm Grove (+968 2321 1234) at the Hilton Salalah Resort, which serves up a stellar setting on the beach with a menu that sees fish flipped, grilled and cooked in all manner of styles – from Asian to Arabic – promising something for everyone. Just don’t head here between June and September or you’ll leave empty-bellied, as it closes for the monsoon season.

At Crowne Plaza Hotels & Resorts Salalah, head to Darbat Restaurant (+968 2323 8035), which has a menu boasting bespoke recipes created by

a panel of culinary ambassadors. Try the wasabi prawn with mango salsa by Chef Sam Leong, or the rice noodles with lobster by Chef Ian Kittichai.

Meanwhile, Mekong (+968 2322 8250), at Al Baleed Resort Salalah

by Anantara, serves up the flavourful cuisines of China, Thailand and Vietnam. Try the authentic pho beef noodle soup, an aromatic broth with rice noodles, cilantro, spring onion, bean sprouts, fresh basil, lime, chilligarlic sauce and sliced beef. Finally, at the same hotel, the bespoke Dining

by Design experience, which takes place on a serene slice of sand, offers a curated collection of menus to pick from. Or, for a true taste of culinary extravagance, you can collaborate with a personal chef to tailor a fine feast that ticks all the boxes. The sounds of the Indian Ocean and the salty air will forever leave a reminder of this beautiful country – a delicious memory of your time in Oman.

CULTURE & SIGHTS

FIND YOUR MUSE Oman is rich in historical and cultural sites – here are some of the highlights to add to your to-do list

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Previous page: Nizwa Fort This page, from top: Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque; Bahla Fort Opposite: An Omani folk dance performance

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f you want to start your trip by learning about Oman’s rich history, head to one of the country’s many museums. An obvious place to begin is at the National Museum, which houses many thousands of artefacts that help tell the nation’s story, from its pre-Modern Islamic architecture and culture, to its role in East Africa during the colonial era and economic resurgence since Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said came to power in 1970.

From here, it’s only a short hop to Bait Al Zubair Museum, a cultural estate that’s home to art galleries, a historic house, a museum, a mosque, and an exhibition hall. Bait Al Bagh is the main museum building, with exhibits that tell the story of the Al Busaidi dynasty while six galleries on the ground floor exhibit everything from the khanjar (Omani dagger), to antique jewellery, musical instruments and more.

If the kids are seeking something a little more interactive, Oman Children’s Museum, near Qurm Park, is sure to keep them amused. More like a natural science museum, its hands-on displays help bring scientific principles to life.

The opening of Royal Opera House Muscat in 2011 was a proud moment for the whole country, since it gave the

nation a spectacular building that houses a 1,100-capacity auditorium and concert theatre as well as landscaped gardens, a cultural market, 50 shops, and a plethora of restaurants. Many international stars have graced the stage, but if your trip doesn’t coincide with a show then you can still take a guided tour of the venue.

One of the main reasons to visit Oman is for its stunning natural sites of interest.

Beginning with a literal high point, Jebel Akhdar, located around 150km inland from Muscat, forms part of the Al Hajar Mountains and is one of the highest points in eastern Arabia. It’s visually stunning, in part thanks to the greenery, and the higher altitude that allows for more rainfall than most of the country.

Even in the summer, temperatures don’t rise much above the low 30s. The area had little to offer in the way of roads or tourist amenities until the last 15 years.

That’s changing now and there are some decent places to stay – including Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort.

Its careful development goes hand-inhand with a bid to protect the area’s outstanding natural beauty, with it being designated a nature reserve back in 2011.

From rugged mountains to clear waters, the falaj irrigation system has been used for centuries in Oman – and

“Oman’s most popular folk dance is the Razha”

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This page from top: Falaj Daris, part of the country’s aflaj irrigation system; Royal Opera House Muscat

a collection that have become known as the Five Falajs have made it onto the UNESCO World Heritage list. Falaj Daris comprises two branches and is one of the biggest falajs in Oman. Falaj Al Khatmayn is known for the precision with which its water flows, and also for the fact that its course runs through Bayt Ar Rudayah, one of the country’s most famous castles. Falaj Al Malaki is fed by a whopping 17 branches and is located in Wilayat Izki. Falaj Al Muyassar features a particularly deep waterway. Finally, there’s Falaj Al Jaylah: a centuries-old but still-functioning piece of Omani history.

How’s that for longevity?

From water to concrete – or more accurately, mud brick – Oman’s atmospheric forts are well worth a visit for the insights they give into the days when tribal politics held sway over the entire region. The oldest in the country, Nizwa Fort, is perhaps also its most distinctive thanks to its circular shape, and the fact that it’s home to seven wells.

Located in the historic city of Nizwa, 140km inland from Muscat, the form you see today took 12 years to build in the mid-17th century.

As impressive, in terms of its years, is Bahla Fort, which was built in the third millennium BCE and has also gained UNESCO World Heritage recognition.

But there is more to this fort than meets the eye: as well as a defence building, it’s home to a souk and ancient mosques.

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You’ll find Al Jalali Fort in old Muscat, overlooking the sea. Comprised of two towers connected by a wall punctuated by holes for cannons, the building is completely isolated so while you can’t venture in, you can still admire its beauty from the outside.

If you want to get to grips with Islamic architecture, Al Hazm Castle in the Al Batinah region is a prime example. With a ceiling supported entirely by grand columns, 3m thick walls, huge wooden doors and cannon openings, it’s sure to have been a superb stronghold – as its existence today proves.

Another window into Oman’s past can be seen through Qalhat, which was added to the country’s list of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in 2018. The country’s first-known capital before the advent of Islam, a ruined Bronze Age city that later developed as a major port on the east coast of Arabia between the 11th and 15th centuries CE, during the reign of the Hormuz princes, until it was devastated by an earthquake.

What you can still see today, though, is Bibi Mariam’s Shrine, thought to have been erected in honour of a woman who reportedly built a mosque. One relic that won’t fail to impress you during this trip is the Hasat Bin Salt – a rock citing inscriptions that are estimated to be thousands of years old.

While it may sound morbid to some, the Bat Tombs have proved an intriguing

day trip for many. A collection of graves can be found here dating as far back as the third century BCE, the styles of which hint at the number of bodies buried beneath. Look out for the beehive-looking structure which would have signified up to five tombs.

Another trip worth taking is the Frankincense Route, unravelling the background behind the country’s huge and thriving frankincense trade. Located north of Salalah in the southern part of the country, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. Here you can not only wander round the Land of Frankincense Museum, but see the resinbearing trees up close, which parade all the way around the Wadi Dukah and the Al Shisur Oases.

This trip should also include a visit to Ubar, the legendary lost city in the southern Arabian sands. A 1992 book, Atlantis of the Sands – The Search for the Lost City of Ubar by Ranulph Fiennes, drew attention to its discovery through satellite technology.

Last, but not least, when you head back to Muscat, check out Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. Some 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone were used to create it, making space for some 6,500 worshippers. The pièce de résistance has to be its spectacular central dome, which pierces the skyline at 50m high and is illuminated by a gold chandelier that weighs a whopping eight tonnes.

ACTIVITIES

OUTDOOR ALLURE Oman may be a small country, but it has a wealth of natural attractions that make it a top spot for adventure

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T

he outdoors is truly where it’s at in Oman, and you should take full advantage. A classic day out is to drive two hours south of Muscat to Wadi Shab. It takes several hours to scramble over the rocks and swim through pools of water as you ascend the wadi, but it’s a whole lot of fun, capped off by the cave pool at the end, which is a cross between a secret agent style lair and nature’s best adventure park.

If you’ve still got some energy to burn, stop at Bimmah Sinkhole on your way back to Muscat. This turquoise lake has a couple of natural rock shelves that offer excellent diving opportunities. Be warned, however, as it takes a brave soul to jump from the highest ones – although you’ll likely see plenty of Omani youths jumping in without a care.

Away from the coast, there are plenty of adventures to be had in the desert. Many companies offer off-road driving, and you can also test your skills at sandboarding and sand cycling. We

26 Activities

recommend you stay into the evening and go camping under the stars. Wahiba Sands is still occupied by Bedouin tribes and it’s well worth pitching a tent there for a deeper insight into Omani culture.

There are many tour operators that have semi-permanent camp sites amid the dunes, so while you won’t exactly be roughing it, it’s still a brilliant way to get back to nature.

Climbing is another popular activity in Oman thanks to the country’s stunning landscape. Hire an experienced guide (something that’s especially important even if there is even the slightest chance of rain, and a resulting flash flood).

Start at Snake Canyon and make your way through the narrow gorge, cutting through the Al Hajar Mountains. If you’re worried about aching feet, you can always take the easy route by strapping yourself into the zip line and whizzing across at speed. It’s great fun.

Trekking is another top outdoor pursuit, and Oman’s wadis will make the experience all the more pleasurable due

to their spectacular panoramas.

Next, consider heading underground to explore the Oman’s wonderful cave systems. Leading the pack is Al Hoota Cave, located at the foot of Jebel Shams, which contains a rich ecosystem including four lakes, and spans a whopping 4.5km in size. Rare blind fish – garra barreimiae – can be spotted in the water, along with many other animal species including bats, arthropods, mollusks, spiders, snails and water beetles. Another worthy stop-off is Majlis Al Jinn, the second-largest known cave in the world. For safety reasons, the actual chamber has been off limits to the public since 2008, although permissions are granted to some experienced adventurers by Oman’s Ministry of Tourism (check out the crazy base-jumping videos on YouTube.) You can still go to soak up the view. Following a steep climb – you’ll need to go in a four-wheel drive – a spectacular vista awaits. Plus it’s a great place to camp, see the stars, and explore the cave entrances. Take care, however – even the smallest drop is 130m.

If you still haven’t had enough of Oman’s rocky terrain, be sure to visit the Rocks Garden in Duqm. The site is currently being upgraded so there aren’t many amenities, but you’ll see towers as well as balancing formations of sandstone and limestone worn down by the ocean over millions of years.

If you’ve got the kids in tow, getting an up close look at the native wildlife is sure to bring a smile to their faces. There are a number of national parks that will please animal lovers of all ages. Prior permission is required to venture into the forest at Al Saleel National Park in the Sharqiyah Region, but once that has been granted, a safari car can be arranged by the sanctuary free of charge. During the weekends this is subject to availability of the driver, but they will normally let you in to explore on foot, so you can look out for the gazelle that wander freely.

To see the country’s prized Arabian oryx, you’ll need to make a date to visit the Arabian Oryx Protected Area in the Al Wasta region. Great efforts have been made in recent years to upgrade the site, which reopened in 2017 with a healthy number of the rare species. Also take your binoculars to catch a glimpse of some of the 450 species of birds that live there too, including Indian rollers, little green beaters and purple sunbirds.

If you’re planing your trip between May and September, you’ll be right on time for spotting another rare species – this time sea turtles. At Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve you’ll see four different species of turtle arriving on the beach at nightfall or pre-dawn to lay their eggs. It’s a magical sight. You can stay the night in one of the resort’s eco-tents for added fun.

Let’s not forget the many other creatures of the sea either: a dolphin or whale spotting expedition makes a great day out. Dolphins are often seen jumping through the waves at many points along the coast. Popular tours leave from Khasab, in the north, as well as from Muscat to the Dimaniyat Islands, and all the way down south in Salalah.

With so many fascinating finds beneath the surface, it may come as no surprise that the diving and snorkelling opportunities in Oman are excellent, with sightings a guarantee. The aforementioned Dimaniyat Islands

Previous page: Bimmah Sinkhole Opposite: Khareef in Salalah This page, from top: Dolphin spotting in Khasab; the Via Ferrata in Jeleb Akhdar. Photo courtesy of Alila Jabal Akhdar Overleaf: The Spa at The Chedi Muscat

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“Catch a glimpse of the waves lapping the shore as you indulge in a spa treatment” Nature Reserve is one credible dive site.

Made up of nine islands, it’s home to a 100-hectare nature reserve, including eye-catching coral reefs, and offers excellent opportunities to see all kinds of marine life, whether in shallow waters or heading to the deep.

Alternatively, why not hire a boat and take it easy? Sail along Musandam’s Strait of Hormuz, leaving from Khasab, and you’ll pass by the spellbinding sight of rugged mountains. Venture overboard for some snorkelling action, and check out the colourful fish flapping their fins by the rocks.

Game fishing also makes for a memorable day out. You could catch anything from yellowfin tuna to marlin, with lots of tour operators ready to help you cast off, including Nomad Tours in Muscat, which was established in 2006.

If you’re a natural on the water, head south to Masirah Island where you can flex your arm muscles during some high-octane windsurfing. This area is a 28 Activities

sure thing for wind and waves, with some swells measuring up to six-feet high. For surfers, Joe’s Point at Aseelah (about 40 minutes south of Ras al Hadd) is a popular spot and is suitable for all abilities.

Astonishing natural sites can also be seen in the south, such as at Tawi Ateer Sinkhole: a 975,000 cubic metre sinkhole in Salalah. The natural wonder boasts spectacular views of the inkyblue waters below. Equally fascinating is the region’s Khawr Ruri – a UNESCO World Heritage-listed lagoon that’s home to prehistoric ruins. The port was often mentioned in Greek, Hellenic and Arabic historical scrolls, being the main port for the export of frankincense in Dhofar. While you’re there, venture to the nearby Khawr Al Baleed, which is also UNESCO World Heritage listed and overflowing with historical significance.

More generally, a whole guidebook could be written about things to do in Salalah. Aside from its stunning landscapes and rich history, the region

is shrouded in a light drizzle and cooling mists between June and early September during Khareef, when it catches the edge of the Indian monsoon.

If the only type of watersports you have in mind are more to do with plunge pools and Jacuzzis, you’ll be pleased to learn that Oman’s spa game is strong.

One of the best in Muscat is The Spa at The Chedi Muscat, which is set along a beach, so you can catch a glimpse of the waves lapping the shore as you indulge in a pampering treatment. CHI, The Spa at the Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa will give you a VIP experience – you’ll be whisked to your own personal spa villa to unwind with soothing treatments. If a traditional Thai massage sounds like your idea of heaven, book yourself into the dedicated suite at Anantara Spa at Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara.

And be sure to try a detoxifying hammam ritual while you’re there.

When you’re done finding your balance, you may feel ready for some retail therapy. Oman offers some unique shopping opportunities in the form of bustling, vibrant souks that provide an insight into the culture, with the chance to take home a rich selection of keepsakes.

If you’re in Muscat, Mutrah Souq is the place to go. With its winding alleyways and shop-lined side streets, it’s a real life Aladdin’s den. Here, you can embark on a treasure hunt for everything from frankincense to gold and pashminas.

For an even more traditional experience, Al Mintarib Village Market takes place every Tuesday in Wilayt Badiya in A’Sharqiyah North Governorate. With everything from daggers to native palm leaves sold here, you’re sure to find a souvenir to suit. Be sure to get there early however, as it’s only open from 6am to 10am. Every Friday, Nizwa Souq holds its weekly livestock market where farmers gather to trade their cattle, goats, and camels. It’s a wonderful sight to behold.

Those staying in Salalah, meanwhile, should pop to Al Hafah Souq. Shaded by coconut trees, it’s a fragrant environment in which to shop, as aromas from the plentiful offering of Middle Eastern perfumes fill the air. You’ll find a variety of other products too, including traditional textiles jewellery, and artisan buys – a veritable gold mine for mementoes.