DXB City Expert - Mar'16 - UK Version

March 2016 The insider's guide to Dubai's must-have visitor experiences

Welcome Note

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DXB City Expert

ediTorial Editorial Director John Thatcher Contributing Editor Lara Brunt Contributors Andy Buchan, Oliver Robinson, Tracey Scott

arT Art Director Andy Knappett Designer Emi Dixon Illustrator Andrew Thorpe

commercial Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade Commercial Director Rawan Chehab Business Development Manager Rabih El Turk Sales Manager Lisa Price

ProdUcTion Production Manager Muthu Kumar

A WA R M

To

DUBAI We know it can feel a little overwhelming when you first set foot in Dubai.

How exactly do you explore this ultra modern metropolis? Where do you start?

We love Dubai and we want to ensure that you feel the same, so that’s why we decided to create this handy-sized, helpful guide to help you on your way.

Rather than present you with a long list of recommendations which would take you the duration of your holiday to read, our Dubai-based team of in-the-know writers have cherry picked the city’s best bits – leaving you free to simply enjoy it.

Inside this guide you’ll find insider knowledge on everything from the best restaurants with a view and the must-shop stores of local fashion designers, to the coolest clubs and the finest entertainment. We’ll also tell you which of the many organised tours are the best to take to see all of this city’s ample attractions.

This month sees the city stage the Dubai World Cup, the world's richest horse race, at the suitably grand Meydan Racecourse. It's the highlight of the city's social season, with thousands flocking to the racetrack in their finery to indulge in a little track-side revellry. It's also a month when Dubai shows off its artistic side: we've got full details on page 14.

All that remains is for us to wish you the holiday of a lifetime. Go get it...

John ThaTcher Editorial Director DXB City Expert Cover Image : Dubai World Cup

By Andrew Thorpe

Contents

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CONTENTS 5

On ArrivAl All you need to know when you touch down in Dubai.

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SO ThiS iS DubAi A little local knowledge to help you ease your way into the city.

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TOp Of The TOurS Let the experts take the strain out of sightseeing.

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Where TO eAT From fine dining and ‘only in Dubai’ eats, to family favourites and best budget options, this chapter comes stuffed with our recommendations.

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Where TO ShOp There’s more to Dubai’s shopping scene than merely the world’s biggest mall. Credit cards at the ready…

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WhAT TO DO Underwater, on the water, in the sand and in the snow: there are myriad ways to enjoy yourself in the city. We’ve selected the best.

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Where TO GO We hope you’ve packed your dancing shoes – you’re going to need them.

Produced for dnata Travel by HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors contained in DXB City Expert.

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On Arrival

DXB City Expert

On

ARRIVAL You’re almost there now, but before you head off to your hotel here’s a little something to help you on your way

Leaving The airporT There are ample public taxis available at the airport, though there’s every chance you’ll have to queue to get one.

As you do so, you may notice a line of estate-sized pink-roof taxis. These are exclusively for women and families, and are helmed by female drivers only.

There are also taxis specifically for special needs travellers. Both can be requested from the taxi line attendant once you’re at the front of the queue.

Your fare will include an airport pickup fee of Dhs25, which is the amount the meter will start from.

Dubai International Airport is also serviced by the Dubai Metro.

However, each passenger is restricted to two pieces of luggage, one of which shouldn’t be bigger than hand luggage.

Trains run approximately every 10 minutes and depart from Terminals 1 and 3 – just follow the signs. Trains start at 5.50am (5.30am on Thursday), and stop at midnight (1am on Thursday and Friday). But be aware that trains start at only 1pm on Fridays. There are just two lines, so it’s easy to work out your route, and you’ll likely find taxis at each station to take you to your specific address.

If you’re intending to hire a car on arrival in Dubai, you’ll find all the major operators are present at the airport.

Chief amongst them is Hertz, which is

available at both Terminal 1 (+971 4 224 5222) and Terminal 3 (+971 4 220 3013) of Dubai International Airport.

Drivers must be aged 21 or over and be in possession of a valid driving license from their home country. Remember that driving in Dubai is on the right hand side of the road.

hire a heLping hand from marhaba If you’re reading this before you travel to Dubai, or if you haven’t yet planned your return journey to the airport, it’s well worth checking out the services of Marhaba (+971 4 389 8989, marhabaservices.com).

On arrival, their always-smiling staff greet you as you come off the aircraft, before ferrying you by buggy to passport control and whizzing you past the queues (which can be long) to their dedicated counters and beyond, where a porter will collect your luggage.

Services are tailored to suit individuals, families and those with specific needs.

Fast-tracking through airport procedures is also a feature of any return journey you make with Marhaba, while you can also book a chauffer pickup from anywhere in Dubai and enjoy the hospitality of their airport lounge – and its complimentary food and drink – as you await boarding.

have a word Although English is spoken and understood pretty much everywhere you'll go in Dubai, it's polite to try a little Arabic when you show your passport on arrival. If Arabic’s not your native tongue, here are a few helpful words…

Marhaba : Hello Sabah al-hayr : Good morning As-salaam alaikum : Peace be upon you Ma’assalama : Goodbye Minfadlak : Please Shukran : Thank you

geT connecTed Before departing the airport you may wish to buy a sim card that’s designed for visitors to use while in the UAE. It costs Dhs35 and provides you with The Visitor Mobile Line (VML), allowing you to make calls – or text – while in Dubai at a fraction of the cost you’ll pay for roaming. You can buy it from the ‘du’ shop in the arrivals hall of both Terminal 1 and Terminal 3. Once purchased you can top it up by buying pre-paid cards at various convenient locations across the city, including du shops. See du.ae for a list of locations.

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So This Is Dubai

DXB City Expert

show some respect

IS

Dubai is a very warm and welcoming city, but like anywhere else you travel in the world you’ll want to show respect for local sensibilities.

Here are a few things to keep in mind while enjoying your holiday…

DU B A I Chapter oNe

You’ve read about it, seen the pictures and marvelled from afar.

Now you’re here. But before heading off to enjoy the holiday of a lifetime, here are a few things to put you in the know

A little bit About this greAt city of ours…

With a skyline dominated by towering skyscrapers and now-iconic structures like Burj Al Arab and Burj Khalifa, it’s hard to imagine that Dubai was once little more than a fishing village. The Bani Yas tribe settled next to Dubai Creek in 1833, and the area soon became a hub for fishing, pearling and trading. The discovery of ‘black gold’ in 1966 triggered Dubai’s remarkable transformation into the glittering city of today.

In 1971, Dubai joined with six neighbouring emirates – Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, Fujairah and (in 1972) Ras Al Khaimah – to form the United Arab Emirates, and this union is celebrated each year on December 2. Under the late Sheikh Zayed, the first President of the UAE, the country has developed into one of the world’s most prosperous, while still remaining true to its rich heritage of Bedouin, Islamic and Emirati cultures.

Today, Dubai is home to over 200 nationalities that are attracted by its opportunities and lifestyle.

Such has been the city’s rapid expansion beyond its Creek origins

that residents now commonly refer to ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, with the old part encompassing Dubai Creek and the wider Bur Dubai area in the north of the city, and the new part featuring the strictly modern superstructures – Downtown Dubai, Dubai Marina and all – which spread for miles into the south of the city.

the bAsics, iN No more thAN 140 chArActers The Climate Expect average daytime temperatures to be around the 28°c mark, getting warmer as the month progresses.

Be sure to slap on that sunscreen.

The Currency The UAE Dirham is what you’ll use.

Notes come in 1,000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5 and their value is pegged at Dhs3.67 = US$1.

The Weekend The UAE’s weekend is Friday/Saturday.

Dubai Metro services start at 10am on Fridays (5.30am on Saturdays) and run until 1am on weekends.

Be sure to refrain from over-the-top public displays of affection, even when in nightclubs.

Do not succumb to the urge to make rude hand gestures to other people – doing so could land you in hot water.

Dress modestly when outside the confines of your hotel, particularly if you’re heading to a mall, where women shouldn’t leave their shoulders bare.

Taking photos of some government buildings and all military sites is strictly prohibited. Stick to the tourist attractions when you’re choosing a background for selfies.

Don’t drink alcohol, or be seen to be overly intoxicated, outside of licensed premises. Unruly behaviour isn’t tolerated.

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sheikh ZAyeD roAD

and entertainment complex). Jumeirah is known for boutique shopping along Jumeriah Beach Road, as well as trendy shops, cafés and restaurants at popular new developments such as The Galleria Mall, Box Park and City Walk. Jumeirah Mosque, the only mosque in Dubai open to non-Muslims, is another reason to visit.

So This Is Dubai

Get Your Bearings

Throughout this guide we’ve referenced areas of Dubai, which to the first-time visitor may mean nothing at all. To help, here’s the skinny on the city’s districts you’ll most likely encounter...

DowNtowN DubAi Home to the largest mall, tallest tower and biggest fountain, Dubai’s showpiece city centre is as glitzy as it gets. Lined with palm trees that twinkle with thousands of fairy lights, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard boasts five-star hotels, restaurants, a San Francisco-style tram and a constant flow of supercars.

Another popular spot is Souk Al Bahar (‘market of the sailor’), a waterfront entertainment and dining hub overlooking the Dubai Fountain and Burj Khalifa.

DubAi mAriNA AND Jbr In the south of the city, this buzzing district includes a man-made marina and a forest of skyscrapers that stretch from Sheikh Zayed Road to Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR). Brimming with hotels and restaurants, there are two beachfront promenades, The Walk and The Beach at JBR, packed with family-friendly eateries. You’ll also find the more manageable Marina Mall and the new Dubai Tram, which connects to Palm Jumeirah monorail and will eventually extend to the Burj Al Arab.

bur DubAi AND DeirA Flanking the southern side of Dubai Creek, Bur Dubai is the oldest part of the city. Here you’ll find the majority of the city’s historical sites, including Dubai Museum and Sheikh Saeed al Maktoum House, as well as restored wind-tower houses and a textile souk.

Over the water, Deira is a melting pot of Arab, Asian and African cultures and a great spot for cheap street eats, as well as shopping in the Gold Souk and Spice Souk.

Sheikh Zayed Road

The 8km stretch of the main highway between Business Bay and the World Trade Centre roundabout is popular with tourists, expats and locals alike, thanks to the clutch of five-star hotels including the Fairmont Dubai, The Conrad and H Hotel, which are easily reached by metro (stations line Sheikh Zayed Road). Continuing past the roundabout, you’ll find Zabeel Park, which hosts the wonderful outdoor Ripe Food and Craft Market every Friday from 9am to 5pm.

JumeirAh Home to sprawling villas and excellent beaches, this low-rise suburb overlaps with Umm Suqeim (where you’ll find Burj Al Arab and Madinat Jumeirah, an Arabesque-inspired hotel, dining

pAlm JumeirAh Even if you’re not lucky enough to be staying here, you can still visit the manmade island that’s become a symbol of Dubai. A monorail runs along the length of the trunk to Atlantis, The Palm, where you can spend the day at Aquaventure water park or book a table at one of the resort’s many restaurants.

Meanwhile, the 11km-long crescent has a string of hotels with restaurants and spas open to non-guests.

So This Is Dubai

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10 of the best ways to do Dubai

At The Top

best for… thAt ‘oNly iN DubAi’ momeNt Swishing down the snowy slopes of Ski Dubai (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) is a must-do experience. Less sporty types should grab a table at Aprés (+971 4 341 2575), a chalet-style restaurant and bar overlooking the action.

best for… ogliNg DubAi police's supercArs Ahead of next month's Beach Polo Cup, Dubai Police’s famous fleet of supercars, including a Bugatti Veyron and a McLaren, will lead a procession of polo ponies down The Walk, JBR on March 25. The spectacle starts at 10am in front of The Ritz Carlton, Dubai.

best for… mAxiNg out your creDit cArD Level Shoe District (800 538 3573, levelshoedistrict.com) at The Dubai Mall is a 9,000-square-metre temple to shoes. With 40 boutiques offering men's and women's designer and fashionforward shoes, you're bound to find your perfect pair here.

best for… A JAZZy hAppy hour In the bowels of JLT's Armada BlueBay Hotel, Nola Eatery & Social House (+971 4 399 8155) is a New Orleansinspired gastropub serving soul food with a side order of jazz. It's always packed, thanks to the daily Happy Hour from 5pm-8pm, and live band on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

best for… Al fresco shoppiNg AND DiNiNg After you've done the malls, head to City Walk (+971 4 317 3999, citywalk. ae), a pedestrianised shopping and dining district on Al Safa Street. It's just welcomed 30 new restaurants and boutiques, as well as a new exhibition with opulent sets and costumes from Hareem Al Sultan, the hit Turkish TV series set in Istanbul's Topkapı Palace.

best for… DAytime DANciNg oN the grAss Piknic Electronik (piknicelectronik. ae) is a popular series of daytime dance music festivals aimed squarely at families. Taking place on March 5 and 19 at The Address Montgomerie Dubai, expect DJs, face-painting, yoga sessions, street food and relaxed vibes.

best for… gettiNg A seNse of olD DubAi Wander around the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, home to narrow sikkas (lanes) and restored barjeels (wind towers), then take an abra across Dubai Creek to the spice and gold souks of Deira. An abra ride costs just Dhs1 each way.

best for… wAtchiNg the suN rise You're in luck this month, as special sunrise sessions for At The Top, Burj Khalifa (advance bookings via +971 4

303 4992, arabian-adventures.com), the observation decks on levels 124 and 148 of the 828-metre-high tower, are available from 5.30am on Fridays and Saturdays until the end of March.

best for… A fooDie ADveNture Open from 5am daily, Deira Fish Market is a lively, smelly souk with plenty of atmospere. Haggling is the norm, and you can get your fresh fish and seafood cooked on the spot at Grill and Shark, a hole-in-the-wall joint in the Al Ras complex next door.

best for… AN iNtroDuctioN to islAm Learn about the Emirati culture and religion during a relaxed guided tour of Jumeirah Mosque (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae), held every Saturday to Thursday at 10am (Dhs10, free for under-12s). Dress modestly and meet at the main entrance at 9.45am.

So This Is Dubai

What’s on this month

Explore the art scene, feast on fine food, and get set to party

1-12th DubAi fooD festivAl The city-wide culinary festival has plenty of events and activites to tempt your tastebuds, including the inaugural Dubai Restaurant Week (until March 5) and the buzzing Beach Canteen at Kite Beach. Visit dubaifoodfestival.com

1-5th DubAi iNterNAtioNAl boAt show Along with hundreds of superyachts and pleasure boats, this family-friendly event has stunt displays, free fishing and sailing trips, and an interactive zone where you can try out new gear.

See boatshowdubai.com

1-12th emirAtes AirliNe festivAl of literAture

The region's largest literary gathering brings bookworms together for readings and meet-the-author sessions with big names like Ian Rankin, Anthony Horowitz, and astronaut Chris Hadfield. See emirateslitfest.com

4th NAsimi beAch festivAl By day, Nasimi at Atlantis, The Palm is a beach club. By night, the sand becomes a dancefloor as DJs take to the stage. British rapper Example will play an hour-long set, with Artful Dodger and DJ Superfly also on the bill. Tickets available from virginmegastore.me

4-5th street Nights Get a flavour of Dubai's food trucks, see graffiti artists in action, listen to live music, and browse the market stalls at this free outdoor event at Bay Avenue, Business Bay, from 5-10pm. Visit dubaifoodfestival.com

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DXB City Expert clockwise from below: Holi Festival of Colours; Dubai World Cup; Taste of Dubai

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So This Is Dubai

DXB City Expert

10-12th tAste of DubAi

25th holi festivAl of colours

This three-day food fest at Dubai Media City Amphitheatre is jampacked with fine-dining pop-ups, celebrity chef demos from the likes of Tom Aiken, workshops and live music (Boney M included). Advance tickets from Dhs75, tasteofdubaifestival.com

Go wild with powder paint and electro tunes at the Holi Festival Of Colours (holifestival.com), a dance party held in over 30 cities around the world to coincide with the colourful Hindu festival.

The party in Dubai kicks off at 8pm at Al Sahra Desert Resort.

13-23rd sikkA Art fAir

25th ub40 AND billy oceAN

Held in the historic Al Fahidi district in Bur Dubai, SIKKA showcases Emirati and Dubai-based contemporary artists.

Expect visual and performance art, together with cultural walks, artist-led talks, and workshops. artweek.ae

It's an '80s flashback as the British reggae band (with original vocalist Ali Campbell) and R'n'B legend perform all their croon-along hits at Dubai Duty Free Tennis Stadium. Tickets cost Dhs225, platinumlist.net

14-18th DesigN DAys DubAi

25th Nicki miNAJ

Design takes centre stage at The Venue in Downtown Dubai as galleries from across the globe gather for the fifth edition of this diverse fair. The pieces are available to buy, plus there are talks and guided tours. designdaysdubai.ae

Rap’s reigning queen will hit the stage for The Pinkprint Tour at The Venue, Dubai Outlet Mall, a temporary outdoor space that holds up to 20,000 people. Tickets from Dhs350, virginmegastore.me

16-19th Art DubAi

26th DubAi worlD cup

The region's premier art fair sees around 90 galleries from 40 countries exhibit at Madinat Jumeirah. There will also be special events and exhibitions at DIFC's Gate Village and Alserkal Avenue in Al Quoz. artdubai.ae

The world’s richest horse race offers a thrilling day of racing at Meydan Racecourse. Fashions on the field are just as hotly contested, while the after concert sees Janet Jackson perform as part of her world tour. dubaiworldcup. com

17th DArA o’briAiN The charismatic Irish comedian comes to Dubai World Trade Centre for St Patrick's Day. Expect intelligent stand-up and plenty of back-and-forth banter with the audience. Tickets from Dhs300, virginmegastore.me

27th eAster suNDAy From brunches and barbecues to egg hunts and bouncy castles, many of Dubai's hotels and restaurants will have special menus and family-friendly events to make your day extra special.

So This Is Dubai

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DXB City Expert

An Insight Into Emirati Culture The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) was set up in 1998 to realise the vision of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai, who sought to educate expatriates and visitors in the traditions and customs of the UAE. To that end, SMCCU seeks to answer visitors’ questions about Emirati culture, its religion, politics and customs, and does so through its policy of ‘open doors/ open minds’, meaning that no question is considered too silly or offensive. In short, it’s a must-visit for tourists.

We’re conducting a series of question and answer sessions with SMCCU to provide you with an insight into local culture: this time, to coincide with the Dubai World Cup, we discuss the Arabian horse with the centre's managing director, Nasif Kayed.

why is the ArAbiAN horse so importANt to locAl culture?

For us, it’s our pride. In the old days, the Arabian horse was everything to us – our pride, our way of travelling, and used for war too. We have a saying that when we used to bury the man, we buried his horse next to him. Your horse was better than your best friend. There are stories of some horses that died right after their owner died – that’s how close the relationship was. Your horse meant everything to you, even sometimes more important than your family but, of course, you had to have a balance.

whAt chArActeristics mADe it so revereD by beDouiNs? Its height [14-15 hands high, compared to 16-17 for a thoroughbred]; its skull is larger so therefore it’s smarter; its nose and lungs are bigger so therefore it’s able to get more oxygen so it’s faster; it can go long distances; and it’s a very loyal horse. When you ride an Arabian horse, you can ride it for days.

how DiD the populArity of the ArAbiAN horse spreAD? The Arabs took Islam from Arabia to Persia and the Caucasus and swept through to North Africa and Spain.

When they got to Spain in the 700s, the Europeans asked ‘what kind of horse could bring these people here from Arabia?’ This began the curiosity of the Arabian horse in Europe.

The Godolphin Arabian horse [from which His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum's Godolphin thoroughbred breeding and horseracing stable takes its name] was imported to England in 1730 and was one of three stallions that formed the foundation of a new breed, the thoroughbred. Today, most modern thoroughbreds can be traced to these three sires.

cAN you tell us A little About his highNess sheikh mohAmmeD's iNterest iN rAciNg? Many Arabs love horses but Sheikh Mohammed took it an extra step. For His Highness, it felt like a betrayal that Arabian horses were no longer a part of Arabia anymore and we have horses with all kinds of breeds – every breed of horse has Arabian horse in it, by the way. He wanted to bring back the Arabian horse’s status from the old days but we did not have good breeds [in Arabia] because the breeds were either in Lexington, Kentucky or England.

[In 1992, His Highness Sheikh Mohammed took the revolutionary step of moving some of his horses from the chilly English winter to the warmth of Dubai. The results were spectacular, sowing the seeds for the Godolphin stable’s success.] They estimate that by 2019, Dubai will be the capital of

breeding, above and beyond anywhere else. Sheikh Mohammed was planning, he was ahead of everybody. He created the concept here of taking care of the horses with the best trainers, the best veterinarians, the best food, the best jockeys. The first Dubai World Cup was run in 1996 and if you look at where it is today with Meydan Racecourse…

eNDurANce rAciNg is populAr iN the uAe. whAt hAs leD to its resurgeNce? [Endurance is a long-distance competition up to 100-miles-long, where horses complete a cross-country course in loops with periodic veterinary checks. It tests the horse’s speed and endurance, and the rider’s effective use of pace and knowledge of their horse’s capabilities.]

To travel long distances is part of our nature. In the old days, to defend or go to war you had to ride your horse for huge distances, so you don’t really appreciate the Arabian horse’s value until you ride it a long distance. It’s not a 1km or 2km racehorse – it’s too heavy, so other horses will win.

So the way to bring the Arabian horse back [to Arabia] is to have emphasis on endurance races, which are very few because people are not focused on the Arabian horse. The Arabian horse, or the Arabian horse bred with some other horses such as the Mongol horse, is the ultimate at long distance racing. Sheikh Mohammed has focused on endurance races and there are a number of races here [in the UAE].

In 2012, His Highness Sheikh Mohammed won three endurance races including the World Cup Endurance Championship in England.

So This Is Dubai

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So This Is Dubai

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right: Hossein Valamanesh, Hasti Masti (2014), Courtesy of the Artist and GAGPROJE

This month welcomes another busy Art Week in Dubai, which sees arts and culture-centred happenings at galleries and public spaces across the emirate.

Popular with both residents and visitors, the initiative includes major fairs such as Art Dubai, Design Days Dubai and SIKKA, as well as exhibitions at galleries and pop-ups in DIFC’s Gate Village, Alserkal Avenue and Dubai Design District (d3). To help you plan your visit, we chat to Cyril Zammit from Design Days Dubai, and preview the tenth edition of Art Dubai…

Design Days Dubai whAt mAkes DesigN DAys DubAi uNique from other fAirs helD ArouND the worlD? The line-up. We’re the only ones showcasing a majority of contemporary design, so it gives us a very strong, fresh line-up in terms of international and regional exhibitors. Nearly half of our exhibitors are from the Middle East so it is an amazing opportunity for visitors and people from the region to discover fresh new talent.

whAt Are some of the highlights of this yeAr’s fAir? We have 40 exhibitors from 20 countries, plus special projects such as a unique presentation by Dutch designer Marcel Wanders who is coming with his Personal Editions collection featuring some of his most iconic pieces. And as a five-year celebration, we have a retrospective on the UAE-based designers called Wasl, which is the original name of Dubai meaning ‘connections’ or ‘crossroads’.

We have over 25 pieces from designers, both UAE nationals and expats, who have been producing pieces since 2012, so it’s a great opportunity for us to showcase how strong and vibrant the scene is here now.

whAt treNDs hAve you seeN AmoNg collectors?

I think mirrors always work well here – I don’t know if it’s a reflection on vanity or just because we’re used to plenty

DXB City Expert

of light. There is a trend in the region to go for secure or noble material like marble, but the younger generation would probably detach themselves from it. There’s a curiosity in terms of anything technology driven; galleries like Victor Hunt from Brussels always bring these lovely interactive pieces that are extremely popular. There’s also a curiosity when we bring exhibitors from another part of the world because people are on the search for something you can’t find in The Dubai Mall.

with All the pieces for sAle, whAt tips woulD you give someoNe who is iNteresteD iN iNvestiNg iN DesigN? You either invest because you like it or because you want a return on investment. I’m favouring the first one obviously, more as a collector.

First you need to browse – go around, see everything, and have a mature reflection on what you’ve seen because these pieces are unique and they need to accompany you for several years.

Then when you’re ready, speak with the gallery representative, see who is the designer, if this designer has been presented already in a museum, if it’s part of a permanent collection from a museum that gives a certain credibility. The beauty of this is like haute couture – you can ask the gallery to tailor a piece just for you or you can commission a piece. Let’s say you see an amazing table for eight people and you would be very interested to have it for 12 or 16 people because the average size of the families in this part of the

world is bigger than Europe, then you can discuss that with the gallery.

whAt DesigNers or gAlleries shoulD visitors look out for?

You’re asking me a very difficult question! In terms of strong, classic contemporary designers, if you go to Carpenters Workshop Gallery you’ll find Campana Brothers and Frederik Molenschot – they are absolutely amazing designers. You have young original talent from Art Factum Gallery in Beirut like Marc Dibeh and rising designers like Vick Vanlian.

You have more institutional, classic, high-end silver pieces by Wiener Silber Manufactur who are bringing an absolutely stunning drinks cooler made by French designer Alexandre Echasseriau. In the region, Loulwa Al Radwan from Kuwait is presenting her new collection called Peacock with marble; Aljoud Lootah from the UAE is also launching her second collection – she had a successful edition last year because the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne bought two pieces from her first collection; and two Emirati sisters called Monogram who normally do jewellery are transforming the Arabic word ‘wa’ – meaning ‘and’ in English – into a bench, linking the traditional culture with the contemporary world of today. We also have Shamsa Alabbar from the UAE doing great jewellery based on Arabic calligraphy.

Design Days Dubai takes place from March 14 – 18 at The Venue, Downtown Dubai. designdaysdubai.ae

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DXB City Expert

10 galleries to look out for

Art Dubai The tenth edition of the four-day art spectacular will be a landmark event for the UAE, with close to 100 galleries from 40 countries presenting works by modern masters from the Middle East, Africa and Asia through to the world's most notable contemporary artists of today.

More than 25,000 people attended the fair in 2015, and visitors this year will discover 500 artists representing 70 nationalities. "This year marks the tenth edition of the fair, and this anniversary encourages us to reflect on the dramatic growth of the art market and arts scenes of the Middle East, South Asia and Africa over the past decade," says fair director Antonia Carver. "Art Dubai acts as a catalyst and focal point, locally and for the wider region, and the diverse nature of our programming reflects the central role played by the fair."

Contemporary • Carroll / Fletcher (London) with works by art duo Basel Abbas and Ruanne Abou-Rahme, winners of the prestigious Abraaj Group Art Prize • Silverlens (Manila) presents an ambitious solo show by Maria Taniguchi, known for her voluminous brick paintings • Chatterjee & Lal (Mumbai) presents a number of Indian artists including Nikhil Chopra whose work centres on India’s colonial past • Upstream Gallery (Amsterdam) explores light, colour and virtual realities through works by Frank Ammerlaan and Rafael Rozendaal • Atassi Foundation for Art and Culture (Dubai) with a mixed-media tribute to Syrian artists curated by film director Hala Alabdalla At its heart are three programs: Contemporary, Modern and Marker.

The latter is Art Dubai’s curated thematic gallery, which this year focuses on the Philippines with Manilabased curator, Ringo Bunoan, creating a program to highlight the dynamic independent art scene in the country’s capital. “It is timely that Art Dubai is giving focus to the Philippines,” says Bunoan. “Dubai has one of the biggest Filipino migrant communities in the Middle East, and Filipinos have long contributed to the economic development in the region, serving various sectors and industries.” By selecting the Philippines for Marker 2016, the fair “highlights Filipinos for their artistry and creative talent and provides an opportunity for global cultural connections and exchange,” he adds.

Art Dubai takes place from March 16 – 19 at Madinat Jumeirah. artdubai.ae

Modern • Elmarsa (Tunis, Dubai) presents rare works from the 1930s onwards by renowned masters including Yahia Turki • Grosvenor Gallery (London) features Pakistani artists Abdur Rahman Chughtai and Syed Sadequain • Shirin Gallery (Tehran) presents paintings and rarely seen animation films by Iranian artist Ali Akbar Sadeghi • Karim Francis Gallery (Cairo) features prominent Egyptian sculptor Adam Henein • Galerie Janine Rubeiz (Beirut) features female artists such as Lebanese painter and fashion designer Huguette Caland

Hyatt®, Park Hyatt® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its af filiates. ©2016 Hyatt. All rights reser ved

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WATE RFRONT SE ATING M E D ITE RRANE AN VIBE S GARLIC ROASTE D PRAWNS 4PM RE SORT TOUR

MEDITERRANEAN SATRUDAY The Terrace launches a brand new Saturday Brunch, serving an array of Mediterranean dishes presented on an unlimited basis, with two beverage packages to select from. A sharing concept is encouraged and enjoyed with a variety of artfully crafted beverages.

AED275 per person, inclusive of soft beverages AED345 per person, inclusive of house beverages To make a reservation contact +971 4 602 1814 or visit dubai.park.hyatt.com

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TOURS Chapter T WO

Bags unpacked, sunblock slathered on, it’s time to get out and see what this city is all about. But with its climate dictating a dearth of paved walkways, Dubai isn’t a city that you can easily explore on foot.

Luckily, our friends at Arabian Adventures and City Sightseeing have just the answer…

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MORNING DUNE DRIVE WITH FAT BIKES There is no better time to observe the vast magnificence of the desert than during the early hours of the day.

Explore the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve in a 4x4 and then try fat bike desert cycling, so-called because the bikes have three-inch-wide tyres which make it easier to cycle on sand. Finish with a picturesque picnic breakfast.

INclUDES:

• Morning dune drive in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve • Fat bike desert cycling. No minimum fitness required (weather-permitting) • Sand-boarding (weather-permitting) • Picnic breakfast in the desert • Opportunity to spot Arabian wildlife DAyS OF OpERATION: Daily (half day,

mornings only) WHAT’S INclUDED: Food and soft

drinks; guided tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Modest dress and

sports shoes recommended; operates year-round; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting local conservation pRIcING: Adult: Dhs285, Child: Dhs285 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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SUNDOWNER DUNE DINNER SAFARI When it comes to the quintessential desert experience, this best-selling tour is hard to beat. Venture into the enigmatic Arabian desert and watch the sun set over endless dunes; enjoy an Arabic feast under the stars at a traditional Bedouin-style camp; and sample Emirati culture with camel riding and henna painting.

INclUDES:

• Dune driving through the desert • Sunset photo stop in the dunes • Arabic-style, three-course buffet with unlimited hops and grape beverages • Camel rides, sand-boarding, henna painting and aromatic shisha • Belly dancing performance • Stargazing • All inclusive - no hidden costs • Camel milk chocolates and photos are available for purchase • Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari and City Sightseeing combo tickets are available OpTIONAl UpGRADES: Book a private 4x4 vehicle or add a sandboarding experience before the Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari DAyS OF OpERATION: Daily (late afternoon until evening) WHAT’S INclUDED: Food, soft drinks and beverages; guided tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Operates year-round; a portion of your fee supports local conservation pRIcING: Adult: Dhs375, Child (aged 5-11): Dhs300

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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STABlE TOUR WITH BREAKFAST On 26th March the Dubai World Cup, the world’s richest horse race, returns to Meydan Racecourse. Learn more about the thrilling 'Sport of Kings' with a behind-the-scenes tour of the stables.

See where the thoroughbred stars are groomed and put through their paces in preparation for race day, and visit the area where the horses are paraded before and after the big race.

INclUDES:

• Delicious buffet breakfast • Guided tour of a world-class equestrian venue • Visit to the equine swimming pools • Exclusive access to the Saddling Paddock and Parade Ring DAyS OF OpERATION: Tue, Wed (half day, morning) WHAT’S INclUDED: Breakfast; guided tour GOOD TO KNOW: Modest dress is recommended pRIcING: Adult: Dhs275, Child: Dhs150 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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TRADITIONAl DUBAI cIT y TOUR While the modern city has only existed for little more than 40 years, Dubai has a rich history that blends Bedouin, Persian, Islamic and Emirati culture and traditions. This fascinating tour explores the atmospheric old quarter of Al Fahidi with its wind towers and historic fort, as well as the bustling Creek area and exotic souks.

INclUDES:

• Photo stop close to Burj Al Arab • Photo stop at Jumeirah Mosque • Drive by Zabeel Palace • Walk through Al Fahidi Cultural Neighbourhood • Visit to Dubai Museum • Traditional abra crossing over Dubai Creek • Walk through the spice and gold souks DAyS OF OpERATION: Twice daily (half-day,

morning /afternoon); Friday (afternoon only) WHAT’S INclUDED: Guided tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Modest clothing and walking

shoes are recommended lANGUAGES: English and German OTHER lANGUAGES: French and Italian tours operate on Sunday and Wednesday afternoon; Russian tours operate on Saturday morning and Tuesday afternoon. Mandarin tours operate on Monday and Thursday mornings. Japanese tours operate daily. Portuguese and Spanish language tours operate on Monday and Thursday and comprise a full-day tour of ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, including Burj Khalifa, At The Top. pRIcING FOR ENGlISH/GERMAN; FRENcH/ ITAlIAN AND RUSSIAN TOUR OpTIONS:

Adult: Dhs165, Child: Dhs110 (Dhs120 English/ German) pRIcING FOR MANDARIN:

Adult: Dhs175, Child: Dhs110 pRIcING FOR JApANESE:

Adult: Dhs180, Child: Dhs140

pRIcING FOR pORTUGESE AND SpANISH:

Including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket Adult: Dhs495, Child: Dhs395 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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FlAVOURS OF DUBAI Get into the spirit of the Dubai Food Festival (which continues until March 12) with this food themed walking tour that takes you into the heart of one of Dubai’s most historic streets, 2nd of December Street. Hear about the culture of the Middle East and sample regional street foods, then sit down to a traditional Emirati meal. Be sure to arrive with a big appetite.

INclUDES:

• Guided walk through this old neighbourhood • Knowledgeable guide • Stop for a traditional Arabic fruit cocktail and Middle Eastern bites • Take a short drive into Jumeriah for a traditional Emirati meal DAyS OF OpERATION: Sun, Tue (late

afternoon to early evening) WHAT’S INclUDED: Food and soft

drinks; guided tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Modest dress and

walking shoes recommended lANGUAGE: English and German pRIcING: Adult: Dhs399,

Child: Dhs300 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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CRUISING ADVENTURES The Dubai International Boat Show sails into town from March 1-5, showcasing the world’s finest superyachts and boats. Climb aboard a yacht or catamaran and sightsee in style as you cruise along Dubai’s coastline enjoying spectacular views of its iconic architecture. Along the way, drop anchor and dive in for a swim, or just relax on deck.

INClUDES:

• Leisurely cruising along the Dubai coastline • Close-up views of The Palm Jumeirah, Atlantis, The Palm and Burj Al Arab • Swim in the warm Arabian waters • Option to have a barbeque on board DAyS of opERATIoN: Sun, Mon, Tue,

Wed, Thu (morning/afternoon) WhAT’S INClUDED: Hotel transfers;

option to include food, soft drinks and beverages GooD To kNoW: Passport is required; a range of yachts and catamarans are available pRICING: Varies according to requirements To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

cIT y OF lIGHTS TOUR Dubai is the new 'city that never sleeps' that should definitely be experienced by night. This evening City Sightseeing bus tour features two routes that showcase Dubai as it transforms into a sparkling city of lights. The Creek Route takes in the enchanting lights of Dubai Creek and the neon-lit commercial hubs of Deira and Bur Dubai, the oldest parts of the city, before heading into the heart of 'New Dubai'.

The Contemporary Route showcases the city's most strikingly illuminated modern buildings, including the glittering Burj Khalifa, Dubai Marina and the distinctive silhouette of Atlantis, The Palm.

INclUDES:

• 2 sightseeing routes showcasing Dubai by night • See all the big sights including Burj Khalifa and Atlantis, The Palm • Audio commentary in 13 languages • Complimentary water DAyS OF OpERATION: Daily from 6pm-9pm WHAT’S INclUDED: Hop-on and hop-off access to

all City Sightseeing buses on 2 routes for 3 hours GOOD TO KNOW: Both routes are included in the ticket price and there is enough time to do both lANGUAGES: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish, Persian pRIcING: Adult: Dhs145, Child: Dhs75, Family (2 adults, 2 children): Dhs365. Free when purchasing a 24hr, 48hr or 72hr City Sightseeing Dubai ticket To book, call 800-CSDUBAI (800 273 8224), email info@cs-dubai.com, or visit citysightseeing-dubai.com

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cIT y SIGHTSEEING TOUR Sightseeing by hop-on, hop-off bus is a must-do in Dubai. City Sightseeing, the world’s leading open-top bus tour operator, has four colour-coded routes that show you all of the most popular attractions. Step back in time in the historic old quarters of the city, wander among the vibrant souks, marvel at gleaming skyscrapers, and admire the beautiful coastline and marina. With over 45 bus stops across the city and countless photo opportunities, it’s the easiest way to see Dubai.

INclUDES:

• All 4 sightseeing routes • Audio commentary in 13 languages • Complimentary water on board • Entry to a number of museums and attractions (see below) DAyS OF OpERATION: Daily. Day tour: 9am-

5.30pm, night tour: 6pm-9pm WHAT’S INclUDED: The 24hr ticket includes:

City of Lights night tour; Arabian dhow cruise, RTA water taxi (abra); entry to Dubai Museum, Sheikh Sayeed Al Maktoum House and 5 other museums; VIP ticket to Global Village; ‘Show & Save’ shopping and dining discounts. The 48hr and 72hr tickets additionally include: entry to Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo; City Sightseeing Sharjah (shuttle bus to Sharjah available on certain days, check with driver) GOOD TO KNOW: Before your 24hr ticket has expired you can upgrade to a 48hr ticket for an extra Dhs55 lANGUAGES: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish, Persian pRIcING: 24hr ticket: Family (2 adults, 2 children): Dhs580, Adult: Dhs240, Child (aged 5-15): Dhs100. 48hr ticket: Family: Dhs720, Adult: Dhs295, Child: Dhs130. 72hr ticket: Family: Dhs850, Adult: Dhs340, Child: Dhs170

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DESERT DUNE BUGGIES Those looking for the ultimate off-road experience will love this exhilarating adventure tour. After leaving Dubai in the morning or afternoon, you’ll head into the empty desert where the off-road dune buggies will be waiting.

Then it’s a rollercoaster of a ride over the dunes in the fully automatic, fourseater vehicles that were built for fun.

INclUDES:

• Fully guided tour along the dunes • Driving and safety instruction provided • All dune buggies are four-wheeldrive, fully automatic with seat belts, roll cages and off-road suspension • Driver experience and passenger experience options are available • Shared buggy or private buggy option • Fantastic desert photo opportunities DAyS OF OpERATION: Daily (half day,

morning/afternoon) WHAT’S INclUDED: Soft drinks; guided

tour; hotel transfers GOOD TO KNOW: Sports shoes

recommended; operates yearround; drivers must be minimum 18 years of age and carry a valid UAE or international driver’s licence; passengers must be aged six and above pRIcING: Per person (sharing); 30-min driving time: Adult/Child: Dhs695 Per person (sharing); Passenger: Adult/Child: Dhs300 Private buggy (for up to 4 pax): Dhs1,500 per buggy To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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'NEW' DUBAI cIT y TOUR With its man-made islands, audacious architecture and futuristic skyline, Dubai has more than its fair share of iconic landmarks, and you can tick them off your list during this tour. Ride the monorail to Atlantis, The Palm; explore the buzzing Dubai Marina area; window shop at The Dubai Mall; and admire the view from the world’s tallest tower.

INclUDES:

• Visit to The Lost Chambers aquarium at Atlantis, The Palm • One-way ride on The Palm Jumeirah monorail • Drive through Dubai Marina and the Jumeirah Beach Residence area • Afternoon visit to The Dubai Mall • Visit to Burj Khalifa (with option to include the observation deck ticket) • Free pickup; tour ends at The Dubai Mall DAyS OF OpERATION: Daily, except Fri (half

day, morning); Wed, Fri (half day, evening) WHAT’S INclUDED: Fully-guided tour GOOD TO KNOW: Operates year-round;

modest dress recommended lANGUAGE: English and German OTHER lANGUAGES: French/Italian and Russian tours operate on Monday and Thursday mornings. Portuguese and Spanish tours operate on Monday and Thursday and comprise a full-day tour of ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, including Burj Khalifa, At The Top pRIcING FOR ENGlISH/GERMAN; FRENcH/ITAlIAN AND RUSSIAN TOUR:

Including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket Adult: Dhs350, Child: Dhs300 Excluding At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket Adult: Dhs225, Child: Dhs175 pRIcING FOR pORTUGUESE/SpANISH TOUR:

Including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket Adult: Dhs495, Child: Dhs395 Excluding At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket Adult: Dhs395, Child: Dhs320 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabianadventures.com

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

Chapter ThREE

Eat

Dubai’s cultural diversity is reflected in its culinary mosaic of fantastic restaurants – from the best Indian food this side of the subcontinent to sleek Japanese eateries and authentic Arabic mezze. It’s little wonder that world-renowned chefs are falling over themselves to open venues in the city. There is something for every taste in Dubai, so it’s time to tuck in…

A TRUE TASTE OF ThE EmiRATES Considering all of the colourful cuisines Dubai has to offer, it might come as a surprise that good Emirati food is not easy to come by, to say the least.

However, slowly but surely more authentic Emirati restaurants are cropping up across town.

An enduring favourite is Al Fanar (+971 4 232 9966, alfanarrestaurant. com) located along Canal Walk in Festival City. You can dine outside on floor cushions at the traditional majlis or at a table in the central courtyard area that looks like a traditional Emirati home. The food is fresh and hearty with dishes such as chicken machboos, grilled shaari fish and jesheed (baby shark with onions and punchy spices).

Another place which has started to pull in its fair share of local Emiratis (always a good sign) is Al Barza (+971 4 343 5310) on Jumeirah Beach Road.

The setting is a modern take on the traditional architecture of the region, but the food is undeniably authentic – here you can try camel meat.

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) also offers authentic Emirati cuisine, but with a welcome twist. The interactive ‘cultural meals’ they serve – so named because guests are encouraged to ask questions on anything that relates to the Emirati culture – are prepared by local chefs in order to preserve the traditions and customs of the Bedouin culture. They offer cultural breakfast on Mondays

and Wednesdays, cultural lunch on Sundays and Tuesdays, cultural brunch every Saturday and a cultural dinner every Tuesday. Advance booking is essential for every meal.

WiDER (AND WONDERFUl) ARAbic While Emirati food may be thin on the ground, wider Arabic certainly isn’t.

Famed Lebanese import Em Sherif (+971 4 424 3000, emsherif.com), which has just re-opened at ground level of the fire-damaged Address Downtown Dubai, offers superb views of Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain to add to a fixed-price dinner menu (Dhs320) which sees hot and cold mezzes, mains of tender, charcoalgrilled meats and desserts arrive at

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AbOUT ThiS chApTER Where possible we've included a website, should you wish to look at menus and prices before heading out. And, of course, a phone number if you wish to book ahead.

While only including those places we know and recommend, we’ve also included a range of options price-wise, from restaurants that will cause your bank manager’s heart to skip a beat, to the too cheap to be true – and all that falls in between.

DXB City Expert ThiS pAGE: Traiteur

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Where To Eat

your table in a near endless flow.

Meanwhile, the recently opened Olea (+971 4 341 0000, kempinski.com) at Kempinski Mall of the Emirates prides itself on authentic cuisine, thanks to its 14-strong team of chefs from Lebanon, Jordan, Syria and Palestine. Highlights include the lamb kofta served on a 1.5-metre-long skewer.

A good place to head with the family in tow to try myriad Arabic dishes for the first time is the Friday Boulevard Kitchen Brunch at Manzil Downtown Dubai (971 4 888 3444, vida-hotels.com). While the parents get adventurous with their tastebuds – and let the in-house artist decorate their hands with henna – the kids will be royally entertained via face painting and arts and craft. The fun runs from 1pm-4pm.

Celebrity-Chefs' restaurants Michelin-starred chefs have long been coming to Dubai to hawk their wares.

Having been one of the first celebrity chefs to open a restaurant in Dubai (the now defunct Verre by Gordon Ramsay, back in 2001), firebrand Gordon Ramsay has returned to the emirate with Bread Street Kitchen & Bar (+971 4 426 2000, atlantisthepalm. com) at Atlantis, The Palm. Here, the menu, though for the most part international, makes more than a nod to Ramsay’s homeland, but the fact that it has a bit of everything makes it a neverfail option for families. Don’t be swayed

by Ramsay’s name into thinking that this is a fine dining and, by extension, expensive restaurant. This is more gastro pub and good value, too.

Another Brit chef to cause a stir in Dubai’s bubbling pot of great restaurants is Jason Atherton, who has Marina Social (+971 4 446 6777, ihg.com) at InterContinental Dubai Marina. Atherton’s Social concept has won an army of fans in London, and while this Dubai offshoot hasn't yet hit the same dizzy heights it is still a great spot, particulary if you snag a table on its terrace.

Nobu in Atlantis, The Palm (+971 4 426 2000, atlantisthepalm.com)

DXB City Expert

meanwhile, offers a Peruvian twist on dishes that have made the Japanese master chef’s restaurant chain the toast of celebrities the world over. This Nobu boasts a unique garden, which is a great place to dine under the stars.

For a luxe contemporary dining experience from the subcontinent, head to Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar at JW Marriott Marquis (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife. com). Here, the menu sings with a cacophony of flavour and creativity, and we heartily recommend the very well-priced grazing menu. Every bite is a delight.

Lastly, Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire (+971 4 701 1111, pierre-gagnaire. com) remains one of the longestrunning and most renowned restaurants in Dubai. The Frenchman makes a point of visiting his restaurant at least once a year (more than most), and the chefs onsite have all been trained by him personally. It shows.

The ever-changing menus are exquisite examples of fusion fare.

perfeCt pizzas For a quick and casual meal, you can’t look past a pizza. Dubai has plenty of places serving up crisp crusts and superlative sourdough bases with nary a pineapple in sight. The open-air terrace at Bussola (+971 4 511 7136, bussoladubai.com) at The Westin Dubai Mina Seyahi is particularly pleasant at this time of year. Crusts are thin and crispy and toppings generous, with over 30 varieties to choose from. The open kitchen, complete with chefs tossing dough into the air, adds to the familyfriendly atmosphere.

For a crisp, yet foldable New Yorkstyle pie that pays homage to its Neapolitan roots, say hi to The Pizza Guys (800 843 4897, thepizzaguys.ae) at Bay Avenue in Business Bay. There are five signature pizzas, all of which are hand-tossed and finished with Italian extra virgin olive oil, fresh basil and parmigiano reggiano, or you can make your own. Our tip? Pull up a stool at the communal counter and order The Godfather (Dhs60) with wagyu

beef meatballs and melted fior di latte mozzarella. Bellissimo.

If you still want to squeeze into your swimsuit, Nonno (800 696 66 66, nonnopizza.com) is a chic pizzeria, also in Business Bay, specialising in paper-thin crusts with no sugar or salt.

Sauces are made from scratch and go straight from blender to base, toppings are super fresh and some pizzas come in at less than 400 calories. That doesn’t mean they’re boring, though. Try the Absolutely Fabulous (Dhs48) with slow-roasted free-range chicken.

Down in JLT, Jazz@Pizza Express (+971 4 441 6342, pizzaexpressuae. com) remains one of the city’s most popular pizza joints. For anyone familiar with the UK brand, there are no surprises in store but the pizzas are fresh, flavoursome and a cut above your average chain.

What’s neW in toWn? Dubai's ever-advancing gastro scene sees a raft of new restaurants opening

Where To Eat

each month. Here's our pick of those just opened: If you tend to take an age to decide what to order, then Burger & Lobster (+971 4 514 8838, burgerandlobster.com) at Burj Daman Building, DIFC, is the place to head.

Here, you have only three choices, each priced at Dhs127: whole lobster (steamed or grilled) with chips and salad; lobster roll with chips and salad; or beef burger (cooked medium or well done) with, you guessed it, chips and salad. Despite the brevity of options, it’s actually difficult to decide as all three are top notch (the burger’s big and packed with flavour), but if you pushed us we’d recommend the whole lobster. Not only is the meat supremely succulent but it’s also great fun to don a bib and get to work with your claw cracker. You’ll love the vibrant atmosphere, too.

We’re always excited to see a homegrown concept and ex-Zuma chef Reif Othman’s Play (+971 4 225 6000, h-hotel.com) has already won a number of fans, ourselves included, since

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opening at the outset of 2016. Playfully (naturally) described as Mediterrasian – a fusion of Mediterranean and Asian flavours – the twists on classic dishes here are a real delight. Be sure to order the duck gyoza and Takumi Wagyu ribs - both of which are divine. The always-buzzing lounge bar and DJ means the atmosphere at dinner is as playful as the menu, although if you’re a non-smoker the restaurant area can get uncomfortably smoky.

While Cipriani (+971 4 347 0003, cipriani.com) originated in Italy, it is now a global chain found in the world’s most glamorous cities – including now Dubai, the second Middle East outpost after Abu Dhabi. The menu features some Japanese dishes like salmon sashimi and tuna tataki salad, but the Italian dishes such as Veal Piccatine al Limone and the decadent Torta Di Cioccolato are the real stars. Decorated in Cipriani’s nautical theme, the twolevel venue has a downstairs bar and restaurant area on the upper deck, as well as an outdoor terrace.

DXB City Expert

lOvEly lATiN AmERicAN Just like other cities across the world, Dubai is currently in love with Peruvian food. In fact, a few of the city’s hotright-now restaurants serve authentic examples of this fabulous cuisine, which puts melt-in-your-mouth meat to good use as much as the freshest fish.

Known for its sublime ceviches, Coya (+971 4 316 9600, coyarestaurant. com) We also adore Garden (+971 56 224 0956, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife. com) at JW Marriott Marquis. Here the chef is Peruvian, the staff are fully knowledgeable of what they’re serving, and the vibe relaxed. Save room in your affections too for the equally impressive Inka (+971 4 346 9295, inkadubai. com) at Sofitel Downtown Dubai. The intimate dining room is complemented by super nice staff and a lounge area that’s perfect for pre- or post-dinner drinks (and fine views of Burj Khalifa), while their chilli-laced rocoto ceviche and chicken anticuchos are divine.

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pREviOUS pAGE, FROm lEFT: Salt; At.mosphere ThiS pAGE, clOckWiSE FROm RiGhT: Inka; J&G Steakhouse; Catch

DiNNER WiTh AN iNcREDiblE viEW One of the most striking spots in Dubai to enjoy outdoor dining is on the westernmost tip of Palm Jumeirah – from here you get to drink in pictureperfect views of Dubai Marina and Burj Al Arab. Just off a jetty that juts out into the azure waters of the Arabian Gulf, lies 101 Dining Lounge and Bar at One&Only The Palm Dubai (+971 440 1010, thepalm.oneandonlyresorts. com). This sparkling, shimmering venue serves sublime contemporary European fare from a menu that has been rubber-stamped by French superchef Yannick Alléno– here we enjoyed the softest squid we’ve ever tasted. The whole experience can be heightened by catching a boat to the restaurant from sister hotel One&Only Royal Mirage. Booking is essential, as is a preboarding drink in the Jetty Lounge.

If you want a fine vantage point to see the Dubai Fountain dance its way toward the night sky – and believe us, you do – book a table on the terrace at Rivington Grill at Souk Al Bahar (+971 4 423 0903, rivingtondubai.ae).

Coming a close second to the view is the always-great British-themed fare.

How about dining as if under the sea?

Of course it’s possible: this is Dubai.

The Burj Al Arab has the renowned seafood restaurant Al Mahara (+971 4 301 7600, jumeirah.com), which is both over the top and under the water – a huge, floor-to-ceiling aquarium full of sea creatures is at the restaurant’s centre. Equally spectacular is the whole-wall aquarium which forms the backdrop to a meal at the excellent Ossiano (+971 4 426 2000, atlantisthepalm.com). Your credit card will enjoy a good workout at both, but hey, you’re on holiday.

DiScOUNTED DiNiNG Holidays may well be for treating yourself, but who doesn’t like a bargain? Dubai is awash with great dining deals that can take you from breakfast all the way through to postdinner drinks.

Tucked away beside the canal in Madinat Jumeirah, Frioul Bistro de Luxe (+971 4 3166 6666 or email contactcentre@dnata.com) has a French-Mediterranean menu including organic juices, gourmet coffee, and classic bistro fare like grilled salmon with ratatouille and roasted leg of lamb.

The two- or three-course lunch menu is great value at Dhs125 or Dhs150, with the option to add a glass of grape for Dhs40.

Down by the beach at JBR, The Maine Oyster Bar & Grill (+971 4 457 6719, themaine.ae) has a two-course prix fixe menu including grilled fish or steak and a glass of wine for Dhs99.

Available from 12pm-4pm, Sunday to Thursday, this New England-inspired brassiere with warm brick, leather and brass interiors attracts a casual but fashionable crowd.

For a Brazilian-inspired lunch that won’t break the bank, head to Spirito Lounge & Kitchen (+971 4 421 2679, spirito.ae) at Media One Hotel. The set menu has a selection of Spirito’s most popular dishes, including ceviches, salads, fish stew and marinated steak, for a reasonable Dhs65 for two courses or Dhs100 for three courses. Available from 12pm-4pm, Sunday–Thursday.

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert

GUT-bUSTiNG bRUNchES

hEAvENly hiGh TEA From traditional afternoon tea to more contemporary offerings, Dubai upholds this very British custom with real flare. If you want to feel on top of the world while enjoying the city’s most unique afternoon tea, head to the Tea Party on 68th, which takes place within Prime 68 at JW Marriott Marquis (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife. com). This is the world’s tallest hotel, and from its 68th floor you get to drink in panoramic views of Dubai while enjoying the finest cuts of beef, American cheesecake (the world’s best) and some sublime drink creations. It takes place on Saturdays, from 2.30pm-5pm, priced at Dhs185

per person and Dhs350 per couple.

With French neo-classical interiors and views of the landscaped gardens, newcomer Sidra (+971 4 435 5577, stregisdubai.com) at the recently opened St Regis Dubai has already left an impression. Bespoke tea blends are paired with delicious sandwiches, pastries, scones with homemade jams, and petit fours. From Dhs180 per person, served daily 2:30pm-5:30pm.

Raffles Dubai (+971 4324 8888, raffles.com), meanwhile, hosts a fun Fashion Afternoon Tea with savouries and sweets inspired by seasonal runway trends (and often shaped into shoes and handbags). There are over 20 tea blends too, from gold leaf to ‘tea-tox’ green tea. From Dhs125, daily 2pm-7pm.

In the bigger-is-better city of Dubai, the word ‘brunch’ takes on a very different meaning. Here, brunch is not a laidback mid-morning meal with a friend in a nice café; it is an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink Friday lunchtime feast that involves cuisines from every corner of the globe, live music, and sometimes even acrobatics. A Dubai brunch isn’t just a meal; it’s an experience, and something everyone needs to try at least once during their holiday. We could devote an entire chapter to brunch, such is the broadness of the offering, but you will have to settle for a few of our choice picks and familyfriendly options instead...

Long regarded as one of the best brunches in town, Traiteur (+971 4 602 1814, dubai.park.hyatt.com) at Park Hyatt Dubai is not to be missed.

Overlooking the Creek, diners wander between live cooking stations serving up freshly shucked Fine de Claire oysters, spit-roast lamb and beef, grilled lobster and shrimp, as well as homemade desserts, crêpes and waffles.

Leave room for some morsels from the new 'Temple of Cheese' where sommelier Remi Torres can assist you with Portuguese grape pairing.

From 12:30pm – 4:00pm, Dhs695 per person including house beverages and sparkling grape.

One of the loveliest alfresco options is the picnic brunch at Al Badia Golf Club (+971 4 701 1127, diningdfc. com) close to InterContinental Dubai Festival City hotel. Kick off your shoes, pull up a beanbag and tuck into a picnic hamper overflowing with salads, baguettes and dips, followed by barbecued meats, grilled seafood and shish kebabs. There's also a mouthwatering dessert station, while kids are well-catered to with entertainers, face painters and bucketloads of sweets.

That's also the case at Raffles Dubai +9714 324 8888 raffles.com), whose wonderful garden setting hosts the family-focussed Raffles Roast each Friday afternoon from 1-4pm. This is a roast as good as any (home-cooked included) right down to all the perfectly

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cooked trimmings. And while the roast tempts you indoors, a whole host of live BBQ stations vie for your tastebuds in the sunshine – select from the likes of grilled lobster and gourmet burgers. At Dhs235 including soft drinks, or Dhs385 with unlimited grape, fizz or cocktails, the value is almost as good as the food.

DXB City Expert

clOckWiSE FROm bElOW: Play; Zuma; Junoon

FOR SOmE FAmily FUN As mentioned elsewhere, The Beach at JBR is a great place to head for a family dinner. But there are other places worthy of your attention, particularly if your kids are that little bit older. You’ll find Crab Tavern (+971 4 420 7489, crabtavern.ae) at Media One Hotel in Dubai Media City. Crab, you’ve guessed it, is the house speciality here, and it comes served many ways – in pasta, as a fish cake, or, best of all, the soft-shell variety comes in a burger laced with red pepper jam. Of the same ilk is Claw BBQ (+971 4 432 2300, clawbbq.com) in Souq Al Bahar, although it’s a tad more raucous than Crab Tavern thanks to its eating competitions and live band.

They’ve been known to queue out of the door to snag a table at Slider Station (600 544 005, sliderstation. com) in the Galleria Mall on Al Wasl Road, which proudly claims to be the world’s first conveyor-belt burger joint.

It’s much more than that, offering a fun American tapas menu (the likes of sticky red onion rings and Coca Colabraised short ribs) to complement décor based on a 1940s American petrol station. Grab a gourmet slider from its unique, if small, conveyor belt – we say reach for the so-called Dangerous, featuring buttermilk fried chicken, jalapeno and chimichurri aioli.

SO yOU cAN SAy yOU’vE bEEN ThERE If you only know a handful of things about Dubai, one may be that it’s the home of Burj Al Arab, that most famous of hotels. You’ll doubtless leave Dubai with a picture of yourself posing against a backdrop of it, but why not go the whole hog and dine there? After all, the only way you can get inside for a nose around is by pre-booking. The

best way to experience the culinary offering of the Burj is via its brilliant Culinary Flight: your dinner begins with a cocktail at Skyview Bar before you embark on a journey through five grape-paired courses at five different restaurants. The food is superb, the service exceptional, and the price (Dhs1,350 per person from 7pmmidnight) great value for the memory you'll get to take home.

You’ll also need to book ahead to dine at the world’s highest restaurant, which spans much of level 122 of the Burj Khalifa, but you’ll be glad you’ve done so. You arrive at At.mosphere (+971 4 888 3828, atmosphereburjkhalifa. com) via the world's fastest elevator, before settling down in the swankiest of settings to enjoy the finest cuts of meat and fish to grace a menu.

NicE AND Spicy An offshoot of its New Yorkbased, Michelin-star toting elder sibling, Junoon (+971 4 405 2717, junoonrestaurants.com) at Shangri-La Dubai is a standout example of how, when it’s done as well as this, there are few finer cuisines than Indian when it comes to robust flavour combinations. Let your waiter guide you through the must-haves (there are many) but have stern words if he fails to mention the Shahi Lamb Shank – as tender a meat as you’ll ever try, it comes, teased from the bone at your table, with a beautifully balanced black cumin rose curry. You’ll also adore the Macchi Masala: panroasted, flake-at-the-touch-of-a-fork artic char that’s coated in a wonderful

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DXB City Expert

GRApE EXpEcTATiONS Alcohol is only served in restaurants based within licensed premises, which basically means a hotel.

A handful of exceptions include restaurants based at DIFC. Where sold, you'll likely find wine expensive.

green chili coriander marinade.

Tong Thai at JW Marriott Marquis (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com), meanwhile, showcases unique regional Thai dishes alongside street food favourites and authentic yet inventive classics we all know and love. Regularly voted the Best Thai Restaurant in the city, signature curries like creamy Panang Kung with tiger prawns and Gai Phad Ka-Prao with chili and hot basil pack plenty of depth and flavour, while classics like Tom Yum and Pad See-Eiw have been honed to perfection. The dining room itself is glorious riot of red and orange hues, with glittering lanterns suspended from the ceiling and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Business Bay, albeit only from the fourth floor.

FOR DUbAi’S ANSWER TO STREET FOOD With gourmet food trucks rolling out across Dubai at an astonishing rate, there’s bound to be one on the tarmac (or sand) near you. Stalwart Ghaf Kitchen (+971 4 443 0355, ghafkitchen.com) was the first restaurant-on-wheels concept in the city and serves a variety of British classics with a decadent twist, all supplied from a lovingly restored retro Citroen H van. The truck travels to various events across the city so keep an eye on its Facebook and Twitter accounts to discover where it's at.

Shiny new truck Calle Tacos (+971 55 171 5712, calletacos.ae) dishes up street-side tacos, nachos and burritos complete with utterly delicious salsa –

handmade from a secret family recipe.

Look out for the bright orange truck at Ripe Market, Dubai World Trade Centre, and many of the city's big festivals – it's hard to miss. Another one to add to the list is the hugely popular Salt (instagram.com/FindSalt). Serving gourmet burgers packed with flavour, you can usually find it parked beachside in Jumeirah. You’ll have to follow it on Instagram to get the exact location – but trust us, it’s worth the effort.

Also along Jumeirah Beach Road, and at the opposite end of the glitz in Dubai's dining spectrum, is Bu Qtair (+971 55 705 2130). Nothing to look at from the outside or in, you will, however, see people queuing here for the freshest prawns and catch of the day, both of which are served with curry sauce, rice and bread.

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DXB City Expert

this PaGe: Burger & Lobster

Divine Dim sum, anD then some No self-respecting cosmopolitan city can call itself a self-respecting cosmopolitan city unless it has a Hakkasan (+971 4 384 8484, hakkasan.com). Happily, Dubai does (at Jumeirah Emirates Towers) and the high-end chain doesn’t disappoint with its chic contemporary Chinese décor, expertly-made dim sum and oh-so fashionable bar.

Shang Palace (+971 4 405 2703, shangri-la.com) at the Shangri-La Dubai is an old favourite which never fluctuates from serving up outstanding examples of Cantonese cuisine: case in point, the signature cod fish with grapes and well-balanced orange sauce. If you’re feeling decadent, head to DIFC and pull up a chair in Royal China’s new-for-this-season secret garden (+971 4 354 5543, royalchinadubai. com). Your al fresco meal of whole

lobster and sugar snap peas in XO sauce will be illuminated by both glowing lanterns and the lights from the surrounding skyscrapers.

For a budget-friendly, brilliant and authentic Chinese restaurant experience, head to China Sea (+971 4 295 9816) in Deira – try the Peking duck before heading upstairs for a spot of karaoke. It's an experience. We'll tell you that much.

sumPtuous seafooD While most menus these days feature ample fish dishes, restaurants which specialise in serving up our fishy friends are in surprisingly short supply across Dubai. That’s one of the reasons why Catch (+971 4 357 1755, catch. ae) was so warmly received by locals – and remains one of the hottest tables in town with an atmosphere to match. Hailing from NYC, the other

good reason that this contemporary American seafood restaurant finds favour is, of course its food. You can have your fish in a number of ways, but you don’t need to look beyond the simple grilled version. Beautiful. If you only have time to eat out once or twice while you're here, make Catch a must-dine.

For classic seaside favourites at a reasonable price, stop by The MAINE (+971 4 457 6719, themaine. ae) at the DoubleTree by Hilton, JBR. Part American brasserie and part European bistro, the unpretentious new arrival features a raw bar overflowing with fresh oysters, crudo (fresh raw fish), ceviche and seafood towers, along with grilled steak, chops and a variety of vegetarian dishes.

With touches of nautical glamour and a seafront-facing terrace, it’s also a top spot to head for relaxed sundowners.

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DXB City Expert

iNcREDiblE vAlUE iNDiAN & pAkiSTANi Since Indians and Pakistanis account for the biggest expat community in Dubai, it comes as little surprise that the city is awash with an abundance of Indian and Pakistani cuisine – much of it very cheap and delicious. That’s particularly true of Saravanaa Bhavan (+971 4 334 5252) in Karama, whose vegetable curries pack in brilliant flavour and cost an average Dhs15.

Also in Karama is Calicut Paragon (+971 4 449 8560, paragonrestaurant. net), which serves curried Keralan seafood specialities, while Rangoli Vegetarian Restaurant (+971 4 351 5873, rangolirestaurants.com) in Meena Bazaar, Bur Dubai, serves food hailing from the Gujarati region of India (imagine platters upon platters of delicious thali, which just keep on coming). The Dubai institution that is Ravi Restaurant (+971 4 331 5353) in Satwa serves Pakistani-style curries, with favourites including chicken achar, keema fry and chicken methi. These places are strictly no frills, but when the curries are so good and such great value, who cares?

FAST, FilliNG NOODlES (AND A biT mORE bESiDES) The Noodle House (+971 4 366 6730, thenoodlehouse.com) is a real homegrown success story, and is the go-to place for steaming hot bowls of fragrantly-spiced pad thai and myriad other dishes inspired by the street foods of Hong Kong, Shanghai, Bangkok and Jakarta. The dishes are never-fail and good value to boot, which makes it a great option for families – it even has a funky kids’ menu, comprising the likes of wok-fried satay chicken noodles. You’ll find branches of it across the city, including one at Souk Madinat Jumeirah. The menu at Veda Pavilion (+971 4 361 8845, emiratesleisureretail.com) on the trunk of Palm Jumeirah moves beyond Far Eastern staples to include a headpopping free-range chicken vindaloo.

As such, everyone in your dining party is likely to find something that really hits the spot here.

iF yOU bOOk jUST ONE plAcE WhilE yOU'RE hERE ThiS mONTh, mAkE iT...

Tea Party on 68th, Prime 68, JW Marriott Marquis Dubai (+971 4 414 3000) The most decadent and unique spin on the traditional afternoon tea takes place high in the sky on a sun-kissed Saturday afternoon, from 2.30pm5pm. Set on the 68th floor of the world's tallest hotel, the Tea Party on 68th sees you sat aside floor-toceiling windows looking out to sea, and grazing on a menu which takes you from mini gourmet delights like duck rillettes and roast beef on Yorkshire pudding, through to supremely tender medallions of Wagyu tenderloin, USDA striploin and Australian lamb, before you end with your fill from five sublime styles of cheesecakes and a chocolate river, into which you dip brownies and caramel fudge.

And we've yet to mention the jars of old-school sweets (Cola bottles and all) dotted around your table...

ThiS pAGE, FROm TOp: Olea; La Petite Maison; Prime 68

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Jebel Ali Palm > PLEASE NOTE This illustration of Dubai is not drawn to scale and bears no accurate perspective to anything. Illustrated by Russ North

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Where To Eat

ThiS pAGE: Bateaux Dubai

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DXB City Expert

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DXB City Expert

BrilliAnT BAr food

Ask A Top Chef Steven Hubbell, Junoon The best meal I have had in Dubai has to be at Simi’s (+971 4 559 7851) in Karama. Their fermented soybean kebab is the best I have ever tasted.

Big, BeAuTiful Burgers Brilliant burgers aren’t confined to the menus of Dubai’s hotel-based restaurants. In fact, the city’s best burgers are served in stand-alone venues. This is certainly true of Burger Fuel (+971 4 445 8220, burgerfuel. com), which has various branches across the city – the best of which, due to it being beside the sea, is at The Walk, JBR. The concept is 100% New Zealand grass-fed beef, a 1/3 pound patty of which is chargrilled to perfection and placed within a wholemeal bun. Thereafter, you can pick multiple extras to stuff inside.

100% organic, free-range beef is the pledge of Elevation Burger (+971 4 338 7055, elevationburger.com), which has three locations across Dubai, including one in The Dubai Mall. If you’re planning to upload a YouTube video of your trip to Dubai, you may wish to include a scene in which you attempt to sink your teeth into the vertigo burger. You can ask for between three and ten (yes, ten) patties to be placed within your bun.

There are no such gimmicks at Burger Joint New York (+971 4 344 4459, burgerjointny.com), which you’ll find at City Walk. The emphasis here is on quality alone, with the options limited to just hamburgers and cheeseburgers.

Their meat is minced on the premises to ensure consistency of flavour.

About as far from the traditional image of greasy onion rings and soggy nachos as you can get, Dubai’s lounges offer a plethora of delicious bar bites to accompany your evenings. For a laid-back affair, head to Bidi Bondi (+971 4 427 0515, emiratesleisureretail.com) on the trunk of Palm Jumeirah. The massive menu features Kangaroo sliders, Queensland lamb cutlets and New Zealand grass-fed rump steak alongside plenty of familiar bar staples.

With national flags hanging from the walls and plenty of television screens, it’s an ideal spot for catching up on the sport while tucking into some simple, tasty grub.

Just a little further along from here you’ll find Beach House Cabana (+971 4 361 8856, emiratesleisureretail. com). Inside there are rattan barstools, an eclectic photo wall and colourful furniture, but outside is really where you want to be. Munch on crab cakes with ravigote sauce or try the old school fajitas served with heaps of guacamole, sour cream and salsa.

For something a bit more sophisticated, recently renovated Madinat Jumeirah’s Left Bank (+971 4 368 6171, emiratesleisureretail.com) offers great entertainment and a lively atmosphere. With an Asian-inspired sharing concept, you can sink your teeth into delectable kofta kebabs, feast on halloumi and vegetable skewers or try the spicy Thai beef noodle salad. Sit outside for fantastic abra views or take a pew in the Botanical Garden to watch the mixologists at work.

If you’re after a bit of respite from the sun, make for Après (+971 4 341 2575, emiratesleisureretail.com) in Mall of the Emirates, the UAE’s only après-ski gastropub. With an international menu, there’s plenty to choose from, but the stone-fired pizzas are easily some of the best in the city.

Plump for the traditional Swiss cheese fondue and tuck in as you watch Ski Dubai’s snowboarders swoosh down the slopes in front of you.

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DXB City Expert clOckWiSE FROm RiGhT: Tong Thai; Rang Mahal; Cipriani Dubai; Almaz by Momo

DiNE AT ThE bEAch The Beach at JBR – a brilliant pedestrianised area mere metres from the sand and sea – is the perfect place to head for a good-value feed with your family in tow. Your best bet is to simply stroll the length of it, stopping to peruse the menus at places that catch your eye – there are myriad cuisines to choose from. But were you to twist our arm we’d heartily recommend the following. Pots, Pans & Boards (+971 4 456 1959, thebeach.ae) is one of Dubai’s more interesting recent openings. Helmed by Tom Aikens, who remains the youngest UK chef to have scooped two Michelin stars, the concept here is sharing dishes (make sure you get the lion’s share of the lobster mac and cheese), which you’ll enjoy in a relaxed, informal (even the chairs are mismatched) vibe. Almaz by Momo (+971 4 551 6247, momoresto. com) is one place that will definitely catch your eye. Here you can look out to the sparkling sea while enjoying your pick from a menu of North African and Levant-inspired dishes. Think piping hot tagines, slow-cooked meats and grilled fish.

Busaba Eathai (+971 4 428 1421, thebeach.ae) is a Thai restaurant with roots – and multiple branches – in the UK, where it was founded by Alan Yau, the man responsible for the brilliant Hakkasan. You’ll find the food here is every bit as tasty, particularly if you order one of the spice-laden curries (ask for it hot), yet a great deal lighter on your wallet.

Breathing in the sea air may well put you in the mood for the ocean’s finest catches. If so, crack open a crab at Aprons & Hammers (+971 4 456 7888, apronsandhammers.com). Crab and shrimp are served by the bucketful – along with a dollop of family fun – with diners having to work for their meal by crushing crustaceans with hinged crackers and (you guessed it) hammers.

DiNE DOWNTOWN In addition to The Beach, Downtown Dubai is one of the few areas in the city where you can walk along the street or, in this case, wide boulevards lined by trees and lit by tiny, twinkling lights at night. You’ll pass an array of goodvalue independent restaurants as you saunter past the skyscrapers, serving up everything from gourmet burgers and American classics at Ashton Kutcher-owned Ketchup (+971 4 363 8595, ketchup.ae) to the menu mash-up at Loui’s (+971 4 457 2411, louisrestaurant.net) where Lebanese, Mediterranean and Japanese dishes all vie for your attention. Trust us, Loui’s identity crisis matters less when you’re eating al fresco in the shadow of the glorious Burj Khalifa.

The al fresco terrace is also a major draw at Fümé Neighborhood Eatery (+971 4 456 8784, fume-eatery.com) at Manzil Downtown Dubai, but its homestyle cooking is the real crowd charmer.

However, if you’re coming to Downtown Dubai on the hunt for a meal you’ll remember long after your flight home has left the runway, it has to be La Serre (+971 4 428 6969, laserre.ae). Great service, even better food, and an atmosphere rarely bettered anywhere else in the city, this is another place where you should let the waiter order for you – just hope they mention the tagliatelle with black prawns and smoked duck. Its downstairs boulangerie is also a great place to head for an al fresco breakfast.

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DXB City Expert

DiNiNG AT DiFc You may want to check in with your bank manager back home before heading to DIFC for dinner (especially with the whole family), but your reward for blowing your budget will be a truly memorable meal. Within DIFC is Gate Village, where amidst the high-end galleries and auction houses are some of Dubai’s – and the world’s – best restaurants. Listed at number 88 in Restaurant Magazine’s 2015 list of the World’s Best Restaurants is the ever-popular Zuma (+971 4 425 5560, zumarestaurant.com), where the outstanding Japanese food is best ordered to share. In fact, what always works well here is to ask your waiter to order for you. New-to-the-menu dishes that you'll want to try, courtesy of new Executive Chef Pawel Kazanowski and a hint of influence from CEO and Founder, Rainer Becker, include a sublime thinly-sliced chutoro tuna, chilli, coriander, and sesame.

It may have slipped from that same list of best restaurants this year (it was placed at 81 in 2014) but La Petite Maison (+971 4 439 0505, lpmlondon.co.uk/dubai) is still great.

It uses produce from local UAE farms in a number of its sublime dishes, all of which have their roots in French Mediterranean cooking – dishes like the burrata with basil and tomatoes and the salt-baked seabass are legendary amongst Dubai gourmands.

Another good reason to visit LPM is the atmosphere: the place buzzes throughout the entire week.

Many will know the Gaucho brand (+971 4 422 7898, gauchorestaurants. ae) – the high-end steakhouse serving the finest Argentinean beef cuts money can buy. The setting for its Dubai outpost is instantly eye-grabbing (shiny and sparkly things offset by cowhide – lots of cowhide) and the steak, as you’d expect, is seared to perfection.

Fine dining Italian style can be had at Roberto’s (+971 4 386 0066, robertos. ae), where you’ll want to snag a table on the open-air terrace to enjoy expertly executed traditional fare – the citrusmarinated black cod is superb.

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DXB City Expert

SOmEWhERE SimplE WiTh yOUNG kiDS Eating at your hotel can be expensive – especially if you have a whole family to feed – but fear not: Dubai has plenty of options for good value, great quality fare. Ideal for tiny tots is bookstore-slash-café BookMunch in Al Wasl Square (+971 4 388 4006, bookmunchcafe.com). It serves up tasty treats (try the blueberry pancakes) and stocks plenty of children’s books, ensuring your kids get food for thought as well as the belly. Bystro (+971 336 8056, bystrodubai.com) on Sheikh Zayed Road offers a special kids’ corner featuring mini tables and chairs, as well as toys and books. The food will please kids and adults alike; choose from sandwiches, great breakfast options, weekend roasts, and – intriguingly – dinosaur ribs.

Baker & Spice’s (+971 4 362 4686, bakerandspice.com) Marina Promenade location in Dubai Marina is arguably the pick of the chain’s four venues in the city – the weather now is perfect for you to take a table on the terrace, and enjoy views of the yachts while eating tasty home-style dishes, the ingredients for which are often drawn from local farms. There’s no dedicated kids’ menu here, but on offer are smaller portions of main dishes, including a fine spaghetti and meatballs.

Over at Italian restaurant Sapori Di Bice (+971 4 344 2550, saporidibice. com) at City Walk, kids get to create their own pizzas, with multiple funshaped bases on offer. Meanwhile, if you’re looking for somewhere to eat with your baby, try Pantry Café (+971 4 388 3868, pantrycafe.me) on Al Wasl Road. While you enjoy wholesome, locally-sourced food, your baby will get messy sucking on free veggie puree.

Also free here are kids’ meals on Friday nights, providing you’re also eating and your children are aged under 12.

Lastly, if you have budding gourmands in your family, give their tastebuds a workout at Atisuto (+971 4 343 6303, atisuto.ae). This great little Japanese restaurant, housed in the Galleria Mall, serves up mochi ice cream and miso caramel sauce. Yum.

ASk A TOp chEF SUblimE SUShi AND SAShimi Beyond the previously-mentioned Zuma and Nobu, Dubai is also home to a couple more standout Japanese restaurants, one of them, Armani/Hashi (+ 971 4 888 3888, armanihotels.com) housed at the foot of Burj Khalifa in Armani Hotel Dubai.

You'd be hard pushed to find seafood as good as that served here anywhere you care to mention.

TOMO in Raffles Dubai (+971 4 357 7888, tomo.ae) is helmed by chef-owner Chitoshi Takaashi, who has devised a menu that’s vast and packed with fantastic authentic Japanese delicacies, best navigated with the help of a waiter or waitress. The terrace here bestows brilliant views of Burj Khalifa.

Cheaper than both – though still of high quality – is Manga Sushi (+971 4 342 8300, mangasushi.ae) at Beach Park Plaza in Jumeirah 2. As its name more than hints at, this is a restaurant that’s designed manga-style, right down to the waitresses’ uniforms. The fun extends to the very inventive sushi creations, of which there are many – including Godzilla in Dubai: deep-fried wasabi prawn, asparagus and diced mango, dipped in wasabi mayonnaise and rolled in sesame seeds. You'll also find a new branch of Manga Sushi in The Dubai Mall.

Within the very funky Vida Downtown Dubai hotel is the equally cool Toko Dubai (+971 4 442 8383, toko-dubai.com). Like Nobu, Toko Dubai also boasts a brilliant garden, where under the stars you can have your fill of some unique and sublime sushi creations – scampi nigiri, with foie gras and truffle oil being one. If you dine here as a part of a group of four, don't overlook the opportunity to order the tasting menu for the whole table, and allow the chef to bring you wave after wave of his finest creations.

Alexander Stumpf, Toko My personal favourites are seafood at Bu Qtair (+971 55 705 2130), a real hidden gem in Jumeirah; pizza at Ronda Locatelli (+971 4 426 2626, atlantisthepalm. com); and, of course, Toko (+971 4 442 8383, tokodubai.com

hEAD TO piER 7 It’s a pier, it has 7 floors. That’s the reason for its name covered off. But what’s of real note here is that each floor is devoted to a different-style restaurant. It’s also the only licensed premises on Marina Walk in Dubai Marina. And so to the good stuff...

The Scene (+971 422 2328, thescenedubai.com) by TV chef and serial author Simon Rimmer is the frontrunner here. British-style comfort food is the jist of it – think succulent, deep-filled pies, feather-light battered fish and chunky chips – but if you want something less filling, the grilled halloumi, pear and salted hazelnut salad is delicious.

No prizes for guessing the cuisine cooked up at the excellent Asia Asia (+971 4 276 5900, asia-asia.com), but there might be a prize if you can find a dish, anywhere, that tickles your tastebuds as much as their tiger prawn Kerala masala. Meanwhile, if you want a side order of animated atmosphere with your mains of slow-cooked prime beef back ribs, then head to Cargo (+971 4 361 8129, cargo-dubai.com).

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ThiS pAGE: Al Mahara

Where To Eat

DiNNER WiTh A TWiST An increasing number of venues across Dubai are now offering a live performance to accompany starter, main and dessert. Top billing goes to Ibiza’s legendary club Pacha, which now has a holiday home here – Pacha Ibiza Dubai (to book, call +971 4 316 6666 or email contactcentre@ dnata.com) at Souk Madinat Jumeirah.

Your enjoyment of its high-energy stage show (aerialists, contortionists, acrobats and dancers from across the globe) is heightened by a set winning menu of delectable dishes, our pick from which is the Chilean sea bass.

If you're not in the mood for three courses, however, this month you can snack on Mediterranean canapés from executive chef Renaud Olivier, along with two glasses of grape or hops, while enjoying the show, all for Dhs275.

The Act (+971 4 355 1116, theactdubai.com), perched on the 42nd floor of the Shangri-La Hotel Dubai, lays on Peruvian delicacies and decadent dishes like grilled lobster slathered in black truffle butter – alongside fantastical entertainment (think acrobats and singers and human oddities) at its Tuesday and Wednesday dinner shows.

Beirut export MusicHall (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) in Jumeirah Zabeel Saray on Palm Jumeirah serves Arabicstyle food along with a whole host of eclectic live music acts – up to ten per night – on Thursdays and Fridays.

For something altogether different try a dinner as you float down Dubai Creek in a boat-turned-restaurant, taking in the sights of 'old' Dubai as you feast on fine dining dishes like oven-roasted duck breast topped with a punchy mushroom, beetroot and rosemary sauce. That’s Bateaux Dubai (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) for you, where boarding is at 7.45pm nightly, and disembarking at 11pm. A holiday must-do.

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DXB City Expert THIS PAGE: Marina Social

SucculEnT STEAk Most high-end hotels in Dubai are endowed with a high-end steakhouse offering premium beef staples like wagyu that are far from cheap. But, budget aside, there are some brilliant steaks to be had in this city.

Heading up our list of top tables is J&G Steakhouse (+971 4 435 5577, stregisdubai.com) at the St. Regis Dubai.

Managing to marry masculinity to elegance, the setting here is just about perfect for you to savour fabulously high quality cuts of meat (as well as seafood and raw bar selections). In fact, such is the restaurant's quest for perfection that nothing is left to chance – so much so that exclusive cattle are raised only for this restaurant (yes, you did read that right). It's listed as Queensland AACO Beef on the menu, and tastes superb.

Pair it with a side of potato gratin, topped with a creamy, nutty Comté cheese, and bookend it with a wonderful scallop sashimi on black truffle toast and the flamboyant bananas foster – a genuine showstopper of a dessert.

Prime68 (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at JW Marriott Marquis, is another cut above (pun intended). The premium beef here is sourced from choice suppliers across the globe and taste sublime, matched by the views from the 68th floor.

Accompaniments such as black truffle butter add a little extra oomph, while add-ons like lobster tails and crab cake are an indulgent treat.

For somewhere lighter on your wallet, go to Soho Grill (+971 4 286 8520, sohogrill.ae) at Century Village, Garhoud (one of four branches in the city). The meat here hails from Australia and New Zealand (two of the world’s finest suppliers), and you can bag a grass-fed fillet for just Dhs100.

Where To Shop

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DXB City Expert

To

SHOP Chapter FOUR

Step inside the stores, meander around the markets and seek out the unique shopping experiences that are found only in Dubai

Mega Malls Few places in the world ‘do’ malls like Dubai. Ever since the first shopping centre swung open its doors in 1980 (the Al Ghurair Centre) there has been a steady flow of malls opening up across the city. Whether you’re in town for one day, one week, or longer, there’s a mall for you.

With over 1,200 stores under its gargantuan roof, The Dubai Mall (800 38224 6255, thedubaimall.com) should

be your first stop. Consisting of four levels – plus an aquarium, Olympic-size ice rink and a 22-screen cineplex – it was named the largest shopping centre in the world by the Guinness World Records when it opened in 2008, and is positively packed with both designer and high street stores. At some point during your shopping spree here it’s a given that you’ll lose your bearings, but there are numerous help desks (and even buggies to ferry you around if you’re flagging). Don’t leave without

visiting Level Shoe District (+971 4 501 6939, levelshoedistrict.com), which houses every designer shoe brand known to mankind; the region’s first Bloomingdale’s (+971 4 350 5333) and an outpost of France’s famous Galeries Lafayette (+971 4 339 9933, galerieslafayette-dubai.com).

Mall of the Emirates (+971 4 409 9000, malloftheemirates.com) is another big shopping draw. Following its recent 36,000 square-metre extension (which welcomed 20 new

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abOUt this ChapteR Dubai’s main malls have long opening hours; The Dubai Mall opens from 10am-11pm Sunday-Wednesday and 10am-midnight Thursday-Saturday, while Mall of the Emirates opens 10am-10pm Sunday-Wednesday and 10am-midnight Thursday-Saturday. The malls also ask that shoppers dress modestly – shoulders and knees should be covered. These dress codes are in place to show respect for the country’s culture and religion, rather than a law.

DXB City Expert

Where To Shop

fashion brands, 12 restaurants and a 24-screen VOX Cinemas) this mega mall has over 560 stores to roam. Make sure you become acquainted with Fashion Dome, an area dedicated to designer garb; Boutique 1 (+971 4 395 1200, boutique1.com), a homegrown retail star stocking global and local labels; the UAE's largest Alexander McQueen (+971 4 347 0239) store, stocking seasonal collections as well as classics like skull scarves and knuckle box clutches; and Harvey Nichols – Dubai (+971 4 409 8888, harveynichols.com), which houses a winning mix of international fashion heavyweights and much more over its three floors.

Next, hop in a taxi – or take the metro to BurJuman Metro Station 1 – to BurJuman (+971 4 352 0222, burjuman.com) one of the oldest shopping malls in Dubai. Offering wallto-wall high fashion, from Fendi and Versace to the UAE’s only Saks Fifth Avenue (+971 450 12700, saksme. com), here you can shop for designer names in relative calm.

Back on the metro, continue for three stops along the Red Line and you’ll reach Deira City Centre Mall (+971 4 295 1010, citycentredeira.com) home to over 370 retail stores. Aside from the shops, the mall houses Magic Planet, a super-sized indoor family entertainment centre.

A hop and skip from here is Dubai Festival City Mall (+971 4 800 332, festivalcentre.com), an urban retail resort nestled in Dubai Festival City.

Set on the historic Dubai Creek, it offers a potpourri of shops (mostly midrange) and some great waterfront cafés that are perfect for a pit stop.

Shoppers who need a fuss-free retail spree should head to Dubai Marina Mall (+971 4 436 1020, dubaimarinamall.com), which offers a stylish mix of high-street brands alongside al fresco dining on a more manageable scale, or Ibn Battuta Mall (+971 4 362 1900, ibnbattutamall.com) touted as the world’s largest themed shopping mall and based on the travels of Arabic explorer Ibn Battuta, the décor alone makes for great snaps.

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DXB City Expert pReviOUs page: Box Park leFt: Mall of the Emirates

ask a lOCal Kelly Lundberg, Stylist Nestled in the raw industrial area of Al Quoz, The cARTel (+971 4 388 4341, thecartel. me) is home to a few interesting and cool local and international designers.

It is a must-visit if you are looking for something really standout.

It’s bargains galore at Dubai Outlet Mall (+971 4 423 4666, dubaioutletmall.com), located 30 minutes outside the city. Offering previous seasons’ wares of top brands at heavily discounted prices, must-visit shops here include Burberry, Coach, Priceless and The Outlet, which stock clothes and accessories from the city’s biggest department stores.

MiNi Malls They might not be as big as Dubai’s jumbo malls but the city’s smaller counterparts are chock-full of labels worthy of your holiday Dirhams.

Most of the mini-malls are located along Jumeirah Beach Road and Al Wasl Road – two roads that run parallel.

Simply drive up one, turn around at Drydocks Dubai, and drive down the other. Kick-off your mini-mall trawl at Sunset Mall (+971 4 330 7333, sunsetmall.ae), home to West L.A boutique and its batch of underground fashion brands.

Two other must-visit shopping havens here include the Mediterraneaninspired Mercato Mall (+971 4 344 4161, mercatoshoppingmall.com) – here you’ll find a brilliant boutique

called Bagatelle (+971 55 312 6822) which sells pre-owned designer clothing, shoes and jewellery – and The Galleria Mall (+971 4 344 4434), the newest name in the independent mall arena and home to quirky stores such as SoH (+971 4 344 4147, soh.ae) a beauty-salon-meets-art-gallery-meetsboutique, and ValleyDez (+971 4 321 2898, valleydez.com), which stocks a great range of cool designer and readyto-wear clothing.

If you want to fully enjoy this area of the city but haven’t rented a car, a good option is to hire a taxi for a six-hour stint for a flat fee of Dhs500. You must book 24hrs in advance (+971 4 208 0000, dubaitaxi.ae).

best OF bespOke Dubai has garnered a well-deserved reputation for custom tailoring over the years thanks, in part, to an abundance of fabric stores and quick turnaround times – great for visitors like yourself.

Areas synonymous with tailoring include Satwa – Deepa’s (+971 4 349 4434, deepastailoring.com) is a popular spot; Karama – Dream Girls (+971 4 337 7287) is a regular for

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Where To Shop ClOCkwise FROM Right: Jimmy Choo, Mall of the Emirates; Level Shoe District, The Dubai Mall; City Walk; Aruna Seth, Level Shoe District

Dubai’s female dwellers; and Bur Dubai – Parmar Tailors (+971 4 3513112, parmartailors.com is a firm favourite for made-to-measure. These three locations make for a great day out in old Dubai, regardless of whether or not you’re looking for bespoke attire.

Thread and Stitches (+971 4 347 2577; threadstitches.com) has long been revered for its quality and ability to create made-just-for-you items at an enviable pace. Located a stone’s throw from Mall of the Emirates – perfect after a morning spent moseying around the mall – this local tailor creates custom clothing for men, women and children. Better still, there’s a fabric store next door so you can meet with the tailor, buy your fabric and drop it off immediately.

Men, meanwhile, should stop by Royal Fashion (+971 4 368 6192, royalfashion.biz) at Souk Madinat Jumeirah (it also has branches in various hotels in Dubai). Applauded for its ability to make bespoke tailoring accessible to all, Royal Fashions creates made-to-measure suits and shirts at reasonable prices, and can send them on to your home country.

Couples looking to say ‘I do’ should stop by the popular Gold & Diamond Park, a hive of activity with lots of jewellery stores offering custommade luxuries. (+971 4 362 7777, goldanddiamondpark.com). Here, Cara Jewellers (+971 4 340 8151, carajewellers.com) offers some of the best prices in Dubai for diamond rings (and other jewelled goodies), and has photos of some very famous customers pinned to its wall. The Dubai stalwart’s bespoke service allows customers to design their own piece too.

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OpeN-aiR Retail aFFaiR If you’re seeking sunshine with your shopping, a stroll around the city’s markets is a must. Ripe Market (+971 4 380 7602, ripeme.com) is one of the city’s most popular, taking place every Friday from 9am to 5pm at Zabeel Park at the Dubai Creek end of Sheikh Zayed Road. Focused solely on local artisans and food producers, the organisers have expanded their reach to include a night market every Saturday at Al Barsha Pond Park from 4pm to 9pm.

The Beach (+971 800 637 227, thebeach.ae), located in Dubai Marina, is one of the emirate’s newest developments offering an al fresco retail experience. Aside from the coastal views and vast esplanade, it boasts a bunch of cool stores selling holiday staples for young and old.

Refuel at one of the many restaurants here before making your way along JBR to Boutique 1 (+971 4 425 7888, boutique1.com), the aforementioned retailer’s second Dubai outpost.

BoxPark (boxpark.ae), another new shopping site, is a pop-up mall made of shipping containers. Peppered along a 1,200-metre stretch of pavement along Al Wasl Road, visitors will find 220 industrial containers selling everything from streetwear to ice cream.

Keep walking along Al Wasl Road and you’ll come across Al Wasl Square, where edgy retail stores, bakeries and beauty parlours are bunched together for a short but sweet shopping experience. The development’s sister property, City Walk (citywalk.ae), also offers a central al fresco location from which the family can shop, dine, play and pamper. This outdoor concept has seen 30 new stores and restaurants open their doors including Karl Lagerfeld, Rag & Bone, 7 For All Mankind and Chantelle lingerie.

Something open-air and altogether different is Global Village (+971 4 362 4114, globalvillage.ae). The seasonal leisure destination boasts more than 50 fun rides and 26 eateries, as well as 36 country-specific shopping pavilions. It’s a unique attraction, with the products on sell the type you'd find at a market.

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ClOCkwise FROM bOttOM leFt: Bloomingdales; City Walk; Bloomingdales; West L.A. Boutique; Spice Souk Next page: The Dubai Mall

gO lOCal Dubai is home to a number of stellar designers whose collections have careered down the runway at fashion weeks around the world. Star of the moment Madiyah Al Sharqi, who is also the daughter of the ruler of Fujairah, is celebrated at home and abroad for her statement pieces, feminine separates and dresses. Pick up a Sharqi staple from Symphony (+971 4 310 6904, bysymphony.com) in The Dubai Mall and Saks Fifth Avenue (+971 4 501 2700, saksme.com) in BurJuman. Also stocked in Symphony is Endemage, an ethnic chic label created by Omani sisters Nadia and Lubna Zakwani.

House of Nomad is another local label elbowing its way inside the wardrobes of the UAE’s fash-pack. The celebrated newcomer, applauded for its use of Arabic calligraphy throughout its collections, can be found in West L.A. (+971 4 388 2828, westlaboutique. com) in Sunset Mall.

Holidaymakers who have landed in Dubai without the necessary swimwear would do well to check out Ola Swimwear, an innovative swimwear company stocked at a number of Poupette à la Plage (poupettealaplage. com) hotel-based branches in Dubai.

Disaster averted.

Besides the malls, the streets along Jumeirah Beach Road, Al Wasl Road

and the surrounding roads are dotted with villas housing local design talent.

You’ll find Dubai fashion star Rami Al Ali (+9714 394 5607, ramialali. com), whose couture collections have appeared at Paris Fashion Week, in villa 697 on Al Wasl Road. Book a consultation or simply scour the rails for haute couture inspiration.

Superstar designer Ezra (+971 4 395 5385, ezrafashiondesign.com), best known for his dreamy, extravagant gowns, creates his masterpieces from his atelier in Dubai’s Jumeirah 3 (villa 746, Al Wasl Road). With Britney Spears and Michelle Rodriguez for clients, Ezra is a must-visit boutique for ladies looking for couture. Emirati

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CONCept stORes

dress has long fascinated visitors to Dubai – from its cultural relevance to how it is worn. And while the most recognisable garment is the black abaya for Dubai’s Muslim women, a wave of new-gen designers have decided to spice things up.

Emirati sisters Reem and Hind Beljafla are the creative masterminds behind DAS (+971 4 395 2427, dascollection.com), a Dubai-based label that has given a new lease of life to the traditional abaya by introducing new materials and cuts – think tweed, Italian crepe and cotton voile paired with thick stitching, pearls and beading. The showroom is located in Jumeirah 3, villa 16, Umm Al Sheif

Road. One designer taking on the abaya in reverse is French-Algerian visionary Faiza Bouguessa (+971 4 369 9919, bouguessa.com), whose intriguing designs are stocked at the aformentioned Symphony.

Rather than take an abaya and westernise it, Bouguessa takes western trends, such as a trench coat or wrap dress, and transforms them into an abaya.

Then there are Dubai’s department stores, which stock a number of abayabending brands. The fun part, though, is searching the rails for an exclusive piece to take home. Three stores to visit include Harvey Nichols – Dubai, Bloomingdale’s, and particularly Saks Fifth Avenue, housed within BurJuman.

Outside of Dubai’s glitzy malls there’s a raft of independent concept stores and shopping experiences to enjoy – if you know where to find them.

The best way to tick off the city’s unique stores is to introduce them into your day, rather than allocate a day to visit them. For example, if you find yourself in Alserkal Avenue admiring the art galleries, make sure you stop

by The cARTel (+971 4 388 4341, thecartel.me), one of Dubai’s creative retail pioneers. From the outside it looks like an abandoned warehouse desperate for some architectural attention. Step inside, however, and a carefully curated selection of limited edition clothing awaits. The designers stocked at cARTel are often exclusive to the region, with every piece a limited edition to ensure its individuality.

Over the road from cARTel you’ll find A4 Space (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue.ae), a sprawling 6,000sqft warehouse that regularly hosts pop-up fashion and art events for the city’s cool crowd.

Fashion-conscious parents heading to Dubai Zoo should visit the nearby Zoo Concept (+971 4 349 5585), a concept boutique offering everything from novelty gifts to trendy T-shirts.

From here, venture a little further along Jumeirah Beach Road to Comptoir 102 (+971 4 385 4555), a conceptualised eatery selling kitsch clothing items alongside a delicious vegan food menu.

A short drive down the same street you’ll find Garderobe (+971 4 394 2753, garderobe.ae), a hotbed for preowned luxury fashion. There is vintage Chanel alongside Celine, Balenciaga beside Burberry, and Dior in company with Dolce & Gabbana.

Holidaymakers planning on retracing Tom Cruise’s footsteps at Dubai International Financial Centre (Cruise ran under the iconic Gate Building in the fourth installment of Mission: Impossible) should pay Momentum (+971 4 327 4320, momentum-dubai. com) a visit. This vintage and rare watch store offers a raft of timepieces as well as service and repair.

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sOUk speCtaCUlaR

sOUveNiRs tO savOUR It’s time to say farewell to tacky token gifts and hello to something a little more authentic. Starting with Arabica coffee. While a number of coffee shops in Dubai serve Arabica coffee (with a signature date), few sell the beans to take away – apart from the Dubai Coffee Museum (+971 4 353 8777, coffeemuseum.ae), that is.

The museum, which is located in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, is split across two levels with a coffee bar on the top floor. It is here that the museum’s bubbly barista John Paul – an expert when it comes to drinks of the caffeinated kind – serves and sells Arabica coffee for visitors looking for a souvenir with a touch of authenticity.

It’s open 9am until 5pm every day except Friday.

Like coffee, poetry forms a cornerstone of Dubai’s history. Head to the vast Kinokuniya (+971 4 434 0111, uae.kinokuniya.com) bookshop

in The Dubai Mall to pick up an Arabic poetry book from one of the many shelves stacked high with tomes.

Calligraphy, too, is synonymous with Emirati heritage. Gallery 1 (+971 4 432 7493, g-1.com), which has shops in Souk Al Bahar and Souk Madinat Jumeirah among other locales, stocks an enviable selection of calligraphy keepsakes – from cards and prints to notebooks.

Oud, a scent synonymous with Dubai, will undoubtedly make for a memorable holiday memento, with most of the malls and markets mentioned in this section offering bottled or bespoke versions for men and women. But for noses that prefer softer scents, head to Villa 515 (+9714 39 54 054, villa515.com), an olfactory sanctuary for bespoke fragrance.

Located in Jumeirah 3, this perfumer boasts a shop and a laboratory that’s specifically designed for perfume customisation – perfect for creating your own holiday scent.

It’s no surprise that one of Dubai’s oldest settlement areas provides the base and backdrop for one the city’s most authentic shopping experiences: Deira. Nestled in the neighbourhood’s maze of winding walkways you’ll find the Dubai Gold Souk – best reached by taxi, although the nearest metro stop is Al Ras. The residents love it because it reminds them of days gone by, while tourists like it for the quality and variety of gold – and the fact that you can haggle over the price.

A quick march from the Gold Souk will lead you to the Spice Souk, home to a number of thatched market stalls selling spices that are certain to pull at your purse strings.

Over the water, on the Bur Dubai side of Dubai Creek, you’ll find Bur Dubai Souk, a labyrinth of passageways teeming with stores selling clothes, camels (miniatures, of course), cushions and much more. The best way to get here from the Spice Souk is by hopping on board a sturdy abra boat at one of the many stations along Baniyas Road – for just Dhs2 per person, you’ll be standing on the other side of the creek in five minutes.

The Dubai Textile Souk, meanwhile, is a fabric fairyland for shoppers looking to create bespoke garments. From swathes of silk for sarees and wedding gowns, to bolts of embroidered cotton, you would be hard-pressed to find a souk more colourful than this one.

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What To Do

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What

DO Chapter FIVE

Think you’re here for the sun and shopping only?

Think again. Dubai boasts ample attractions that you’ll want to experience before heading home.

The fun starts here...

SEE thE cIty From thE Sky Skydiving is on every daredevil’s bucket list and there’s no better place to do it than here. Skydive Dubai (+971 4 377 8888, skydivedubai.ae) has one of the world’s most spectacular tandem jumps over the iconic Palm Jumeirah.

Or if you'd rather not leap out of a plane, iFly Dubai (+971 4 231 6292, theplaymania.com) lets you defy gravity in its amazing indoor wind tunnel.

For more sedate sightseeing, Seawings (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) offers a range of scenic joy flights, including the Dubai Creek Silver tour, a 40-minute ‘dock to dock’ seaplane excursion above the historic Creek, Palm Jumeirah, Burj Khalifa and more.

If VIP bling is more your thing, nothing beats hovering around town in a helicopter. Fly High Helicopter Services (advanced booking via City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506) offers 15- or

25-minute tours from its helipad at Atlantis, The Palm, as well as helicopter transfers so you can really arrive in style. Meanwhile, Heli Dubai (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) takes off from Dubai Festival City, with 12- or 22-minute aerial tours over Dubai’s stratospherenudging skyscrapers.

Leaving the glitz and glamour of the city behind, a hot air balloon ride over the desert as the sun comes up is an unforgettable experience. Balloon Adventures Emirates (+971 4 285 4949, ballooning.ae) will take you up, up and away in either a large group or a private charter.

GEt wEt and wIld Water babies are spoilt for choice as Dubai has two world-class waterparks that have something for all ages.

Located in front of the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab, Wild Wadi (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992,

arabian-adventures.com) is the more manageable of the two, with over 30 rides and attractions. From kid-friendly slides and the relaxing lazy river, to adrenaline-fuelled surfing experiences and the truly terrifying Jumeirah Sceirah, it’s impossible not to have fun at this fantastic park.

Over on Palm Jumeirah you’ll find Aquaventure (advanced booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures. com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis, The Palm. It comprises 17 hectares of heart-stopping slides, rides, pools and interconnecting waterways, along with a huge kids’ play area, exhilarating zip line, pristine private beach, private cabanas and the not-sosmall matter of Shark Lagoon, where you can hand-feed gentle rays.

Celebrating your birthday while in Dubai? Register online at atlantisthepalm.com for a free Aquaventure day pass to use anytime during your birthday week.

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about thIS chaptEr As you’ll read, there is much to do in Dubai, and as such we’ve ensured our recommendations include plenty of options for both big and little kids. By far the best way to get your bearings – and to see all of the city – is by starting out with a City Sightseeing Dubai, hop-on, hop-off bus tour (see ‘Top of the Tours’ for booking details). Then it’s all about ticking off that to-do list...

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opEnInG paGE: Dubai Ice Rink. clockwISE From Far lEFt: The Dubai Fountain; Ski Dubai; The Beach at JBR; Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo

SEE amazInG SEalIFE

aSk a local Emi Dixon, Graphic Designer I always take visitors to see the old town, in Bur Dubai, and eat in Bayt Al Wakheel (+971 4 353 0530) which is on the waterfront and serves local food with a view of the abras and souks. It’s a nice break from the hi-rise and extravagance and shows a completely different side of the city.

Some of Dubai’s best family-friendly attractions can be found under the sea.

Home to over 65,000 marine animals, The Lost Chambers Aquarium (advanced booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis, The Palm is sure to mesmerise young and old. There are over 20 exhibits with creatures from all over the world.

Visitors can also book a behind-thescenes tour or swim, snorkel or dive with sharks.

Meanwhile, The Dubai Mall is home to the Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo (advanced booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506), one of the largest suspended aquariums on the planet. Marvel at over 140 species of sea life, including over 300 sharks and rays, or rent some scuba gear and sidle up alongside the inhabitants of this 10-million-litre tank. No diving experience is required. At the zoo part of this aquatic attraction you’ll get to see the likes of penguins, otters, giant spider crabs and King Croc, who weighs in at 750kg. The new Animal Encounter Experiences, meanwhile, provide behind-the-scenes access to otters, rays or saltwater crocodiles. The meet-and greet experiences take place every hour, daily from 11am to 10pm.

And if you’ve always dreamed of swimming with dolphins, you can do exactly that at Dolphin Bay (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com), the 4.5-hectare dolphin conservation centre at Atlantis, The Palm. Home to a family of friendly Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins, you can take your pick from five different dolphin experiences.

chIll out at a Spa Feeling frazzled after all that fun?

Dubai has some of the world’s most luxurious spas that are renowned for their ultra-indulgent treatments.

One of the very best is Amara Spa (+ 971 4 602 1234, dubai.park.hyatt. com) at the beautiful Park Hyatt Dubai, which stands aside the city's historic creek. This magical setting features a 25m-pool and eight luxury suites replete with private gardens and tropical rain showers, three of which are designed for couples. If it's just the two of you in town, why not embark on Amara's Couple's Journey? Spread over a leisurely 180 minutes, you'll be pampered to the point of sheer bliss via a body scrub, body wrap, massage and facial. It's priced at Dhs3,000 per happy couple.

Over at the world's tallest hotel, JW Marriott Marquis (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com), you'll find the sublime Saray Spa, where customised treatments for two are also offered. The Saray Spa Ultimate VIP Journey is 3 hours of serenity, into which you're eased with a bath of your choice (try the milk option). You'll then be treated to an aromatherapy massage, signature facial, administered on side-by-side treatment tables in the wonderful VIP Suite. This journey to remember costs Dhs2,380.

Not on the same scale size wise but offering a truly tranquil setting amidst the desert dunes is Satori Spa at Bab Al Shams Resort & Spa (+971 4 809 6232, meydanhotels.com). Your reward for taking the 30-minute taxi ride here should be the Real Aromatherapy Experience (80mins, Dhs675), where essential oils are gently massaged into your back, scalp, neck, face, shoulders and feet. As a further treat, as for it to be administered in the al-fresco cabana.

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DXB City Expert oppoSItE paGE: Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo

ExpErIEncE Snow and IcE While a winter wonderland in a desert city sounds fantastical, it does exist in Dubai. Located in Mall of the Emirates, Ski Dubai (advanced booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506) is the go-to place for skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing or just throwing snowballs.

Clothing and equipment are available for hire, and there are lessons for budding skiers aged 3 years and up, while boarders must be at least 8 years old. And don’t miss the free penguin parades, which happen daily at 2pm, 4pm, 6pm and 8pm.

Dubai’s other mega mall has its own penguins too, albeit plastic ones. Dubai Ice Rink (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com), the Olympic-sized rink at The Dubai Mall, has public skating sessions that are suitable for beginner and immediate skaters, as well as snowfall sessions with a live DJ every Tuesday at 6:15pm, Thursday at 8:15pm, and Saturday at 2:30pm. Penguin Pal skating aids are available for little ones measuring a minimum of 100cm tall, while there are Snowmen for adults and children over 12 years who are unsteady on their skates. One-on-one and semi-private lessons can also be arranged.

GEt GlowInG at thE park Another place to suspend disbelief is Dubai Miracle Garden (+971 4 422 8902, dubaimiraclegarden.com), a 2,000-square-metre garden that is home to an incredible display of 150 million flowers.

It features quirky floral sculptures of giant peacocks, hearts and clocks, as well as a kids' playground and, something else to amaze, nine butterflyfilled domes in the adjoining Dubai Butterfly Garden.

Dubai Garden Glow, meanwhile, is a new glow-in-the-dark family attraction in Zabeel Park that boasts a replica Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque made from 90,000 cups, plates and spoons and a 12-metre-high Burj Khalifa made from 330,000 tiny bottles filled with coloured water. There are often live performances from artists and acrobats, plus food stalls and interactive displays for little ones.

hIt thE bEach If you’re staying in a hotel without its own private beach, but a dose of sea and sand is high on your holiday wishlist, head down to one of Dubai’s many beautiful public beaches. Backed by a low-rise collection of restaurants, cafés and boutiques, and featuring a winding walkway dotted with innovative food stalls, The Beach at JBR (800 637 227, thebeach.ae) is one of the most popular spots along the Arabian Gulf.

There are well-kept changing facilities with showers, all manner of activities to enjoy (from beach football to early morning yoga), and you can rent a sunbed with an umbrella and towel for Dhs110 per day.

Another firm favourite is the stretch of sand running the length of Umm Suqeim known as Kite Beach, thanks to its popularity with kite-surfers (you can sign up for lessons too). It boasts a promenade with a handful of cool cafés, changing facilities and showers, a jogging track, beach tennis, watersports and the new XDubai Skatepark, but no sunbed or brolly rental.

takE to thE hIGh SEaS Sailing and yachting are popular pastimes in the emirate and cruising past Atlantis, The Palm towards the iconic Burj Al Arab at sunset is one of the most memorable ways to experience Dubai. Deep sea fishing is

another big draw, with species such as king mackerel and barracuda tempting anglers.

First Yacht (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com) specialises in tailor-made luxury yacht and catamaran charters and private fishing trips, as well as powerboat rides and romantic dinner cruises for two. Sea Hunters (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) is another recommended operator that can organise deep sea fishing tours, luxury yacht and catamaran charters, and flashy speedboat cruises all around Palm Jumeirah.

all thE Fun oF thE FountaInS At the foot of Burj Khalifa is a 30-acre lake, in which stands the world’s largest dancing fountain. Dubai Fountain has multiple jets spread across the lake, which shoot water 500ft into the air about the height of a 50-storey building - while ‘dancing’ to the music. Shows are daily at 1pm and 1.30pm (1.30pm and 2pm on Fridays) and every 30 minutes from 6pm-11pm. Bag a table on the terrace of a lake-side restaurant (see ‘Where to Eat’), watch for free from the Waterfront Promenade, just outside the entrance to The Dubai Mall, or see it in style aboard one of the abras (traditional Arabic boats) which sail as close to the action as possible.

Tickets cost Dhs65 per person and can be purchased from a counter on the Waterfront Promenade or from At The Top, Burj Khalifa.

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DXB City Expert

What To Do

Get on track Petrol heads can do more than just drool at Dubai’s legion of supercars.

Slip behind the wheel of a single seater F3 race car, McLaren, Audi TT or R8 supercar at Dubai Autodrome (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com). Track experiences combine classroom and behind-thewheel training from a professional racing driver, before you’re let loose to do a few laps on your own – guaranteed to get your blood pumping.

The complex is also home to Kartdrome which has indoor and outdoor tracks that are suitable for big kids and little ones aged 7 and up.

The 1.2km outdoor circuit features 17 corners, a tunnel and bridge, while the 500m indoor track allows up to ten karters to race at any one time. Plus, the karts are equipped with timers so you can test your mettle against your mates.

Beyond shopping at The Dubai Mall The Dubai Mall has a host of activities to keep the whole tribe entertained.

Gamers of all ages will love SEGA Republic (advanced booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506), a huge indoor theme park with 15 rides including a rollercoaster, and hundreds of high-tech games. Little visitors will love KidZania (advanced booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures. com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls +971 4 316 7506), a sprawling mini city that allows children to dabble in 80 different careers, from pilot to police officer. And aviation enthusiasts aged 9 and over can fly the world’s largest passenger plane at the Emirates A380 Experience (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com), a state-of-the-art Airbus flight simulator.

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DXB City Expert this PAGe: Seawings

Ask A locAl Chris Ujma, Journalist When I want to wow visitors, I take them to dinner at Souk Madinat, which recreates the aura of an ancient Arab marketplace. There are some great waterfront eateries offering the stunning backdrop of the Burj Al Arab.

see A movie with A difference A trip to the cinema takes on a whole new dimension in Dubai. The new VOX Cinemas (+971 600 599 905, voxcinemas.com) at Mall of the Emirates has 24 screens including a multi-sensory 4DX theatre that adds moving seats and effects like rain and lightning, the first laser IMAX in the Middle East, and a colourful kids’ cinema. You can even swap popcorn for a gourmet duck burger at Vox Theatre

by Rhodes, which combines luxury seats and service with a menu devised

by Michelin-starred chef Gary Rhodes.

The cooler months (that’s now) also see a raft of al fresco film screenings.

Movies Under the Stars at Wafi Pyramids Rooftop Gardens (+971 4 324 4100, pyramidsrestaurantsatwafi. com) is an old favourite and shows feel-good flicks for free every Sunday from 8.30pm, while La Playa Lounge (laplayalounge.com) screens Hollywood hits on its full-size screen by The Beach at JBR daily from 6.30pm.

Something unique for kids cinemawise is The Dome Box (800 637 227, thedomeboxdubai.ae), at BoxPark on Al Wasl Road. It’s a dome-shaped theatre with a 360-degree screen which plays short edutainment films that are themed around science, nature, and popular culture. Instead of seats there are beanbags – and leaning posts for adults – and each movie lasts for around 30 minutes.

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Just launched, the first VOX Outdoor Cinema (voxcinemas.com) is perched on the rooftop of Galleria Mall. Unlike other outdoor cinemas, it shows new release films rather than nostalgic hits, plus there’s a great menu of Italian dishes from Taste of Italy and cookies and milkshakes from Home Bakery.

FEEl on top oF thE world Ascending the world’s tallest tower is high on most visitors’ must-do lists, and At The Top, Burj Khalifa (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) doesn’t disappoint.

A high-speed elevator delivers you to the observation decks at Level 124 (452 metres above the ground) or Level 148 (soaring 555 metres).

Floor-to-ceiling glass provides unobstructed, 360-degree views, plus your ticket allows you to linger as long as you like. Open daily until 11pm – but tickets do sell out, so be sure to book yours in advance.

play (or watch) a lIttlE polo Seasoned polo pros, novices and spectators can enjoy the age-old sport of kings at Desert Palm, Per Aquum (+971 4 323 8888, desertpalm. peraquum.com). The resort has its own swish stables and four championship polo fields with lessons and daily matches (from October to April).

Spectators are well catered for too, with afternoon tea served on a chic terrace overlooking the action. Dubai Polo & Equestrian Club (+971 4 361 8111, poloclubdubai.com) also offers a fun introduction to the game with mini polo experiences designed for groups of two to 10 holidaymakers.

This being Arabia you can also saddle up for a spot of Camel Polo (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) using the so-called ‘ships of the desert’ instead of horses. You’ll start your day with a lesson on the basics before mounting up in pairs, with one rider taking the reins and the other swinging the mallet, for an undoubtedly hilarious match.

This unique experience is available for

groups of at least 8, and you need never have ridden a camel (or a horse) in your life to take part.

SwInG Into actIon Dubai has become a major golf destination and boasts an impressive collection of high-calibre courses.

Emirates Golf Club (+971 4 380 1234, dubaigolf.com) is an old favourite, with two 18-hole par 72 Championship courses and a clubhouse inspired by Bedouin tents. The Majlis course, home to the Dubai Desert Classic, a prestigious winter fixture on the European Tour, has open horizons and stretches of scrubby sand along with more traditional bunkers, while the Faldo, redesigned by Nick Faldo in 2005, has a wadi (valley) running through it, which is sure to challenge first-timers.

Jumeirah Golf Estates (+971 4 818 2000, jumeirahgolfestates.com) has two Greg Norman-designed Championship courses matched by excellent club facilities. Inspired by the great parkland courses of Europe and North America, the Earth course is home to the DP World Tour Championship, the grand finale of the European Tour’s Race to Dubai. The undulating topography of the Fire course, meanwhile, demands a strategic approach.

If your game is not quite at the level of a Rory Mcilroy, sharpen your skills at the more forgiving The Track, at The Meydan Hotel (+971 4 381 3733. meydanhotels.com). It's a great 9-hole course offering five different tee positions (perfect if you're a beginner), and as membership is not available, its pay and play policy (Dhs175 for nine holes) means you're always likely to secure a tee time.

on your bIkE Cycling is proving ever popular in the emirate, and the European-style bike hire service Byky (bykystations.com) is the best way to explore the city on two wheels. There are roughly 16 stations dotted around Downtown, Dubai Marina and Palm Jumeirah. First, you

DXB City Expert thIS paGE: XDubai Skatepark

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need to register with your credit card details online, at a rental station or by downloading the NextBike app to your smartphone. Then a unique code is sent to your mobile to unlock the bike and you’re good to go.

To really stretch your legs, head to Al Qudra Cycling Track, the world’s longest purpose-built cycling track that loops around the desert dunes near Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa. You can hire bikes from Trek Bikes (+971 4 832 7377, trekbikes.ae) at the start of the track.

ExplorE thE art ScEnE With a keen focus on contemporary art, Dubai has a burgeoning art scene centred around the financial district of DIFC and the industrial area of Al Quoz. The former is home to a dozen spaces including Ayyam Gallery (+971 4 439 2395, ayyamgallery.com), which promotes emerging and established artists from the Middle East, and The Empty Quarter (+971 4 323 1210, theemptyquarter.com), the city’s only gallery space devoted exclusively to fine art photography.

The hippest art hub, Alserkal Avenue (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue. ae), can be found in Al Quoz. There are around 15 galleries housed in converted warehouses, including Mojo (+971 4 347 7388, themojogallery.com) and La Galerie Nationale (+971 4 380 4652, galerie-nationale.com). A new extension has seen the area double in size and welcome new galleries such as Leila Heller Gallery (+971 56 831 3520, leilahellergallery.com), the first international outpost from the wellknown New York gallerist. For a good introduction to the current exhibitions, pop along to the free gallery tour held every Saturday from 4-5pm.

Down near the Creek in Bur Dubai, Majlis Gallery (+971 4 353 6233, themajlisgallery.com) is also well worth a look. It’s Dubai’s oldest art gallery, established over 25 years ago in a windtower house in the Al Fahidi district.

Meanwhile, an interesting new gallery that aims to bridge the gap between high-end pieces and mass-

DXB City Expert

produced prints has just opened in The Dubai Mall. LUMAS (+971 4 388 2540, lumas.com) has original photographic and contemporary artworks starting at less than Dhs400, as well as limited edition pieces by big names such as Damien Hirst and Patrick Demarchelier.

SaddlE up For thE racES The horseracing season comes to a close this month, culminating in the Dubai World Cup on March 26 at Meydan Racecourse. It’s the richest race day on earth – worth US$30m in prize money – in the biggest grandstand ever built, and one of Dubai’s best days out.

Admission to the grandstand is only Dhs25, but to make the most of the party atmosphere, you should stretch to Dhs450 for Apron Views access (food and beverages are extra). Or splash out on the First Class Lounge, where for Dhs3,750 you get a gourmet buffet and unlimited house beverages along with excellent views as the horses thunder past on their way to the finish line. It’s a great excuse to dress up and most ladies wear a feathered fascinator or fancy hat, while men are suited and booted. Tickets can be purchased from Ticketmaster (ticketmaster.ae).

If you’re not in town for the big day, there are also race meetings on March 3 and March 5 – the latter is known as ‘Super Saturday’ and, as the official dress rehearsal for the Dubai World Cup, it is an occasion in its own right.

The camel racing season, meanwhile, is in full swing until the end of April and witnessing the galloping animals flanked by fleets of SUVs is a memorable experience. The Al Marmoum Camel Racetrack (dcrc. ae) hosts weekly early morning and afternoon meetings, attracting camel owners from across the UAE. Given the track’s location and lack of upto-date race information, you’re best to visit with a tour company. Arabian Adventures (+971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) will take you to what's a no-frills venue, as well as proffering insider knowledge of this native pastime.

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DXB City Expert

Chapter SIX

WHERE TO

go Where once it was a city bereft of cool clubs and nightlife to speak of, Dubai now attracts the biggest names in the business to a stellar line up of fabulous venues.

Get your glad rags on – we’re going out…

SIppIng under the StarS For eight months of the year, Dubai is blessed with gorgeous weather, which means there’s no shortage of excellent al fresco lounges. Barasti (taxi: Le Meridien Mina Seyahi, +971 4 399 333) has been ruling the roost for 20 years, pulling in thousands of revellers every weekend. It combines live music, daily sunbathing sessions, a sandbetween-your-toes dancefloor on the beach and more serving stations than you can shake an empty glass at.

With Burj Khalifa basically in its back garden, Treehouse (taxi: Taj Dubai, +971 4 438 3100) has unbeatable views from its leafy, third-floor terrace.

Wooden floors, comfy sofas and an open-air fireplace create an intimate lounge-bar feel. However, the music grows as the night goes on with DJ Tayllor playing an eclectic mix of commerical and deep house tunes.

If you fancy your drink with a side order of vertigo, 40 Kong (taxi: H Hotel, +971 4 355 8896) is your best bet. The rooftop lounge on the 40th floor (obviously) offers sweeping views across the city from its Sheikh Zayed Road location, and comes with some of the best house DJs in the city, including deep house expert KaY TeK. Another elevated al fresco drink can be enjoyed at Pure Sky Lounge (taxi: Hilton Jumeirah Beach Resort, +971 4 399 111). Decked out in white, blue and plenty of glass, the 35th-floor lounge offers stunning views out to sea, alongside a very cool soundtrack.

Bliss Lounge (taxi: Sheraton Jumeirah Beach Resort, +971 4 399 5533) is one of Dubai Marina’s best outdoor spots. The beachside lounge offers excellent sea views from one of the most high profile stretches of shoreline in the city and, at night, it turns into an excellent outdoor club with some of the

best resident DJs in the city dropping soul-infused house music.

Overlooking Media City’s low-rise buildings, Tamanya Terrace (taxi: Radisson Blu, Media City, +971 4 366 9111) has undergone a recent facelift and offers impressive views across to Dubai Marina and its twinkling skyline.

The Terrace hosts one of the city’s best club nights every Friday from 6pm as Night Vibes and its crew of fun-loving clubbers rock up and turn the venue into a mini Ibiza haven.

While most of Dubai’s nightlife has shifted south, there are still plenty of panoramic spots at the other end of town. TOMO Views (+971 4 357 7888, tomo.ae), within the pyramid-shaped Raffles Dubai, hosts daily Sunset Sessions where you can sip creative cocktails to the tune of sophisticated deep house with sunkissed disco vibes and euphoric soaring strings until 1am.

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about thIS Chapter The UAE weekend is Friday-Saturday. As such, Thursday-Friday nights are usually the busiest across town. The legal age to drink alcohol in Dubai – and enter a nightclub – is 21, and while nowhere employs a seriously strict dress code policy, you won’t get in if you're dressed for the beach – no shorts, open-toe sandals or the like in this town, please. We have included a taxi reference for you – ask the driver to head here – as most will not know the location of the club or lounge if you say its name only.

DXB City Expert

Where To Go

For the bIg nameS and beSt dJS 360° (taxi: Jumeirah Beach Hotel, +971 4 406 8999) is one of the longestrunning clubs in the city, and boasts panoramic views across the city from its perch in the middle of the Arabian Gulf. The two floor venue hosts Audio Tonic every Friday for your deep house kicks, while rotating promoters on Thursdays bring in soulful house, UK bass and dance classics. The drinks are expensive, but well worth it for the views and music.

A cavernous venue on the 41st floor of Media One Hotel, Level 41 (taxi: Media One Hotel, +971 4 427 1000) hosts pop-up club nights and live music.

From techno to drum and bass and hip hop to house, the back-to-basics rave cave hosts the city’s cooler promoters – meaning a clued-up crowd who aren’t afraid to cut loose on the dance floor.

Pacha Ibiza Dubai (taxi: Souk Madinat Jumeriah, + 971 4 567 0000), is the latest international addition to the city, and includes a spectacular dinner/dance show, a stunning rooftop venue and an ultra glamourous main room. Drinks are far from cheap, but service is good and while Pacha done Dubai-style doesn’t have quite the same hedonistic appeal of its Ibiza sister venue, it is still worth checking out.

The first real beach party in the city, Nasimi (taxi: Atlantis, The Palm, +971 4 426 2626) has hosted everyone from Basement Jaxx to Robin Schulz over the years and can hold several thousand dancers on its sandy beach. Even if there’s nothing big going on when you visit, the resident DJs and the views back across Palm Jumeriah and into Dubai Marina are worth the trip.

Part beach club, part open-air club and packed every weekend, Zero Gravity (taxi: Sky Dive Dubai, +971

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DXB City Expert

openIng page: Zero Gravity thIS page: Provocateur

4 399 0009) is the city’s current hot spot. It has welcomed big names like Paul Van Dyk and Mark Ronson alongside more alternative stars like Mr Scruff to play under the stars. Plus, their newly up-and-running pool party looks set to take the city’s day-time partying to a new level.

Since launching four years ago, Blue Marlin Ibiza UAE (taxi: Golden Tulip Al Jazira Hotels & Resort, Ghantoot, +971 51 133 3400) has set the benchmark high for house music parties in the country. Thousands of glamazons make the 30-minute journey towards Abu Dhabi to this Balearic beach party. The line-ups are always cutting edge and big on the house market: think Ibiza icons like Jamie Jones, Dixon and Marco Carola.

With a panoramic view of Dubai’sskyline, White Dubai (taxi: The Meydan, +971 50 443 0933) is the sister lounge and club to the Beirut original. And like its Lebanese sibling, it’s high on the glam factor, with a goodlooking crowd arriving around midnight every Thursday, Friday and Saturday for the hip hop and EDM soundtrack.

And of course, the stunning view back into the city.

From the shores of the south of France comes the VIP Room (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis Hotel, +971 52 881 8888) bringing with it a reputation for hosting big urban acts and a celebrity clientele. Dubai's outpost does much the same, with hip hop and house sharing deck duties on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays.

Another imported chain, Provocateur (taxi: The Four Seasons Dubai, + 971 55 211 8222) began life in New York as a bottle-service club that catered to high-end house music lovers. Fittingly, the Dubai branch has welcomed 4/4 heavyweights like Seth Troxler and White Island favourite Solomon during

its first season. More recently, it has shifted its focus to home-grown talents.

Since its refurbishment in summer 2015, Movida (taxi: Radisson Royal Hotel, +971 55 1744 449) has reclaimed its position as one of the city’s regular hot spots. They frequently host cameos from established and up-and-coming rappers (including O.T. Genasis), and have a very commercial hip hop and mainstream house/EDM soundtrack on the weekend. If you like to see bottles of bubbly with sparklers in them paraded every 20 minutes, this is the club for you.

Back on the sand, Eden Beach Club (taxi: Rixos, The Palm Dubai, +971 4 277 1477) is the latest big player on the beach club scene, and boasts private cabanas on the beach and a dazzling sound and light set-up that hosts some of the world’s biggest names (Steve Aoki and Sasha have played here). Open from early morning until midnight, it’s an ultra glamorous venue where reservations are highly recommended.

Vii Club (taxi: Conrad Hotel, +971 50 169 6777) is another cool newcomer. Going for all-out glam with mahogany wood-finished walls and deep plum furniture, Vii's resident DJs play deep, tech and soulful house every Thursday and Friday from 10.30pm until 3.00am. Meanwhile, the adjacent lounge bar, which leads to gorgeous ‘secret garden’, is open every night from 8.00pm 'til late.

Lastly, if you fancy going down to the woods today, make sure you do it with Frank The Bear at Toy Room Dubai (taxi: Al Murooj Rotana, 971 55 246 4555), the club’s mascot and official party starter. The playful club has a popular hip hop and deep house soundtrack with some of the best residents in town.

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best Ladies' nights Like Friday brunch, ‘ladies’ night’ is somewhat of a Dubai institution.

Usually staged on Tuesday nights, but now increasingly popping up at least somewhere throughout the week, the nights are so-named because ladies get to drink for free, in some places to a limitless degree. An imported London chain Mahiki (taxi: Jumeirah Beach Hotel, +971 4 380 773) has been a big hit in the UAE since launching three years ago. It has a neat, Polynesianthemed twist on drinks you can share with your girlfriends.

A big favourite in Dubai Marina, Atelier M (taxi: Pier 7, +971 4 450 7766) is a three-in-one venue – there’s a French restaurant, an open air terrace and swish lounge. Their popular ladies’ night runs every Tuesday, with ladies receiving four drinks alongside a soundtrack of commercial house and RnB from the resident DJs. Just a few floors below Atelier M is Asia Asia (taxi: Pier 7, +971 4 276 5900), which is so good they named it twice. Ladies receive three complimentary drinks between 6pm and 1am, while the resident DJ plays a great mix of deep house and nudisco. Plus, the venue has a stunning Marina-fronting balcony, which is perfect for the current weather.

Also in the marina, YNot Bar & Kitchen (taxi: InterContinental Dubai Marina, +971 4 446 6669) holds its ladies’ night every Tuesday, with three free drinks from 7pm until 10pm. It's got a funky, New York-vibe (think polished concrete floors and Banksy-esque murals), knowledgeable staff and great views.

Making food a feature of its new ladies’ night is The Ivy (taxi: Jumeirah Emirates Towers, +971 4 432 3232), which grants girls four drinks and three-courses every Tuesday for Dhs199 per person. Sink into a dark green leather banquette and dine on dishes like aromatic duck salad, Thai baked sea bream and The Ivy’s famous desserts (our pick is the banana sticky toffee pudding).

DXB City Expert

CLoCKWise From beLoW: Treehouse; Nasimi; Hobo

For something diFFerent Dubai does big and bold very well, but you have to dig a little deeper to find the alternative scene. Casa Latina (taxi: Ibis Hotel Al Barsha, +971 4 399 6699) hosts many of the better left-field nights, pumping out old school drum and bass (Bassworx), indie (Loaded) and punk (Bad House Party) on a monthly basis. Check in advance by calling as the music can vary wildly.

If you’re after live music, the aptlytitled Music Room (taxi: Majestic Tower Hotel, +971 4 501 2534) in Bur Dubai is your best bet. Promising local – and frequently international –

bands, this spacious venue attracts a knowledgeable crowd. Musically openminded, they’ve hosted local metal giants like Nervecell, Bon Jovi tribute acts, and alternative DJs like drum and bass kingping Goldie and jazz-funk troubadour Quantic.

We’re not sure why it hasn’t been done before, but Stereo Arcade (taxi: Double Tree by Hilton, +971 52 618 2424) combines music and a stereo arcade (with over 50,000 games) as well as a slushy machine, hot dog stand and more. The hi-tech club plays ’80s and ’90s hits every weekend.

For something with a real twist, push the bookcase in the lobby of the Dusit

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Thani hotel. It will open to reveal a hidden door, on which you’ll knock to gain entry to the Nippon Bottle Company (taxi: Dusit Thani, +971 4 357 0779), a Japanese speakeasy. It offers an impressive list of Japanese whiskeys, which are now considered to be some of the best in the world.

Also speakeasy-like – and equally well guarded – is Hobo (taxi: Nassima Royal Hotel, +971 55 927 0815). To find it you'll have to venture through the 4th floor of the car park to the rear of the Nassima Royal Hotel, where you'll find a small sign flanked by dapper doormen. They'll lead you inside, where mixologists stir up a storm and

a DJ spins vinyl records – no mixing by button here, thankfully. It's open Mondays only, from 11pm.

CatCh a matCh An always-lively atmosphere is yours to soak up at Girders (taxi: JA Ocean View Hotel, +971 4 814 5590), particularly in its faux garden which boasts a giant screen – a whole four metres, to be precise – and shows the biggest games of the day. Smaller screens inside show other matches at the same time.

Multiple matches with same-time kick offs are also shown on myriad

DXB City Expert

screens at Qube Sports Bar (taxi: The Meydan Hotel, +971 4 381 3780). It’s so named because of its unique draw – a cube screen bearing four huge surfaces to provide fans with a fine view no matter where they’re sitting. While these venues show a lot of football and rugby, more country-specific games are shown elsewhere. Aussie sports are screened at Bidi Bondi (taxi: Shoreline Apartments, Palm Jumeirah, +971 427 0515) while Gaelic games are shown at both McGettigans (taxi: Bonnington Hotel, + 971 4 378 0800) and The Irish Village (taxi: Century Village, +971 4 282 4752).

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#HOLIDAY

From amazing architecture to sweeping sandscapes, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have lots of memories of your time in Dubai to share via social media. Here are some of our favourite Instagram snaps of the city. Be sure to share your #VisitDubai and #MyDubai moments too

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4. Photo credit: @shu_ga Cruising in style off the West Crescent of Palm Jumeirah.

5. Photo credit: @aljvd Incredible interiors of Jumeriah's Al Farooq Omar Bin Al Khattab Mosque.

6. Photo credit: @burjalarab Capturing Dubai's colours and its most iconic hotel.

7. Photo credit: @ibrahim_lotto

1. Photo credit: @burjkhalifa Rise and shine for an early morning view of Burj Khalifa.

2. Photo credit: @elodie.1788 Be sure to drop by Alserkal Avenue in Al Quoz this art season.

3. Photo credit: @ozzgurl A breakfast spread like this one at Fume Dubai is made for sharing.

For a whirlwind trip around the world, head to Global Village.

8. Photo credit: @mshamaa22 A dramatic black and white makeover for Atlantis, The Palm.

9. Photo credit: @arabianadventures A close encounter during Arabian Adventures' falcon experience.

feeling like a VIP that’s Kilban’s marhaba effect The difference is the staff. So caring.

I’m just an ordinary traveller but marhaba makes me feel like a VIP. With people like this, there is only one way you can go—up, up and up!

Kilban

Breeze through all the airport formalities with our meet & greet services in Dubai and Bahrain.

Whether you’re arriving, departing or transferring, marhaba meet & greet makes your time at the airport something to look forward to.

You can also relax in style, no matter what your airline or class of travel, at our lounges in Dubai and Bahrain.

Find your marhaba effect at marhabaservices.com

meet & greet | family packages | marhaba lounge | citystop | transfer service