Page 1


THE CHANEL MOMENT


www.chanel.com


GRAND ATRIUM DUBAI MALL +971 4339 8666


CALIBER RM 07-01


OUR SIGNATURE COLLECTION. QUATTROPORTE BY MASERATI.

ALL-NEW QUATTROPORTE | QUATTROPORTE S | QUATTROPORTE GTS

TO MASTER AN ART WITH PASSION, INSPIRATION AND IMAGINATION, THIS IS MASERATI. EVER SINCE ITS FIRST INCARNATION, MASERATI’S FLAGSHIP RANGE REMAINS UNRIVALLED. QUATTROPORTE 2979 CC V6 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 330 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 500 NM - TOP SPEED: 263 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 5.6 SECONDS.

QUATTROPORTE S 2979 CC V6 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 410 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 550 NM - TOP SPEED: 285 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 5.1 SECONDS.

QUATTROPORTE GTS 3798 CC V8 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 530 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 650 NM - TOP SPEED: 307 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 4.7 SECONDS.


Q U A T T R O P O R T E

Bahrain, Euro Motors W.L.L.: 17 750750 Kuwait, Al Zayani Trading Co.: 1808010 Ext. 111 KSA Jeddah, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 02 6835148 KSA Riyadh, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 01 4664748 Lebanon, G.A. Bazerji & Sons LLC.: 01 263111 Oman, Alfardan Motors LLC.: 024 523014 Qatar, Alfardan Sports Motors Co. S.O.C.: 044 208788 UAE Abu Dhabi, Premier Motors: 02 4935000 UAE Dubai, Al Tayer Motors LLC.: 04 3037878 www.maserati.com


Montegrappa Boutique The Boulevard - Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Dubai UAE +9714 3880620

www.montegrappa.me


“ICONS”

AYRTON SENNA LIMITED EDITION


Dubai Mall | Dubai Marina Mall | Mall of the Emirates | Wafi | Gold Souk


CONTENTS / FEATURES

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade david@hotmediapublishing.com Commercial Director Rawan Chehab rawan@hotmediapublishing.com Editor Tracey Scott tracey@hotmediapublishing.com Deputy Editor Richard Jenkins richard@hotmediapublishing.com Features Editor Lara Brunt lara@hotmediapublishing.com Senior Designer Adam Sneade Designer Andy Knappett Illustrator Vanessa Arnaud Production Manager Chalitha Fernando

Sixty

Seventy Two

Ordinary Girl

Waight For It

She’s the face of Chanel and worth millions, but Keira Knightley still strives to be normal.

As Chloé opens a new ÀDJVKLSLQ5L\DGK, AIR sits down with the label’s creative director.

Sixty Six

Seventy Six

The King of Soul

Stars on Celluoid

50 years after Sam Cooke was sensationally shot, AIR examines the soul singer’s tragic last night.

Legendary photographer Peter Lindbergh captures VRPHRI+ROO\ZRRG¶V¿QHVW IRU,:&6FKD̆KDXVHQ

- 17 -


CONTENTS / REGUL ARS Twenty Six

Fifty Eight

Eighty Four

Radar

Jewellery

Gastronomy

Iconic images by Norman Parkinson, plus perfect presents for him and her.

Jeweller to the stars Stephen Webster on bold gems and Bowie.

.RUHDQ$PHULFDQFKHI-XG\ Joo is not your average culinary star, as AIR discovers.

Forty

Eighty

Eighty Eight

Art & Design

Motoring

Travel

/RQGRQœV¿UVWDQWLJDOOHU\ plus fashion’s enduring love of fairy tales.

7KLV\HDUÂśVÂżQHVWOLPLWHG HGLWLRQDQGXOWUDH[FOXVLYH luxury vehicles.

As St. Moritz celebrates 150 years of winter tourism, AIR charts its rise to the top.

Forty Nine

Interiors AIR talks design with Louis Vuitton’s former director of architecture.

Fifty Three

Timepieces The revival of Moritz *URVVPDQQDQGVSHFLDO order watches.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in AIR.

- 18 -


THE BRIDAL COLLECTION Constellation Setting

T H E G A L L E R I A S O W WA H S Q U A R E 0 2 - 6 7 4 3 6 6 6 W W W. G R A F F D I A M O N D S . C O M


NASJET

December 2014

WELCOME ONBOARD

Welcome to the December issue of NasJet Air. This issue comes at an opportune time as the global private aviation industry meets in Dubai to demonstrate the latest aircraft to potential buyers’ and debate key issues relating to the Middle East. This event, Middle East Business Aviation (MEBA), is organized by the Middle East Business Aviation Association every two years and as founder and board member of the association, we are proud to support this DXVSLFLRXVJDWKHULQJRIWKH¿QHVWPLQGVLQ private aviation. For the event, our private chalet is strategically located opposite the aircraft displays and will be dedicated to our distinguished guests and visitors. NasJet will be also celebrating 15 years of operational excellence at MEBA and we will announce another success story following the introduction of three stunning aircraft WRWKHHYHUH[SDQGLQJPDQDJHGÀHHW7KLV includes a factory new Boeing Business Jet and two Embraer Legacy aircraft. Our topgrade reputation for aircraft management once again proved the winning formula and we have ambitious plans for 2015 to further increase the number of long-range wide-body aircraft XQGHUPDQDJHPHQWDQGÀLJKWVXSSRUW Finally, in our pursuit for innovation and to deliver even higher levels of personal service to our clients, we have decided to update the NasJet external brand look. The mission and goals remain the same but now with a sharper focus on maintaining a culture, which, we believe, fosters a service-orientated organization, delivered through our own GHGLFDWHGKLJKO\TXDOL¿HGDQGSURXGVWD̆, KRSH\RXZLOO¿QGWKHUHYLVHGORRNDSSHDOLQJ and we welcome your comments. Once again, thank you for selecting NasJet and we welcome you onboard. Saad Alazwari &KLHI([HFXWLYH2̇FHU

Contact Details: clientservices@nasjet.com.sa nasjet.com.sa T. +966 (0)11 217 2070 NasJet Contributing Editor: Hardy Sohanpal E. hsohanpal@nasjet.com.sa - 21 -


NASJET NEWS

NasJet unveils a new look $VZHFHOHEUDWHRXU¿UVW\HDUVLQ business we have decided to unveil a new look. The new image, revealed at a private event at the start of the Middle East Business Aviation event earlier this month, sees the 1DV-HWORJRPRGL¿HGVOLJKWO\ using a contemporary design and sophisticated colour palette. The new design is based on four NH\HOHPHQWV¿UVWLPSUHVVLRQV consistency, resilience and responsiveness to our client’s and partner’s needs. Following intensive research and feedback from clients we have also made a number of enhancements to further improve the services and products we currently provide.

This includes updating all the onboard amenities, including the addition of cashmere blankets and fragranced products from the world’s most celebrated fashion houses. We believe every part of your NasJet experience should be as comfortable as possible. We’ve gone to great lengths to source the best catering providers in world, regardless of location. For FOLHQWVÀ\LQJIURP5L\DGKZHKDYH partnered with the Four Seasons +RWHOWRR̆HUD6LJQDWXUH0HQX specially created by international culinary experts for NasJet. Partnership and collaboration is something you will see often over the coming years as we push - 22 -

to provide all-encompassing experiences. Many of these will be tailored to you, and will work alongside our new ‘likes and dislikes’ SURÂżOHV\VWHP7KLVZLOODOORZWKH crew and your regional director to consistently personalize many RI\RXUĂ€LJKWVZKHWKHULWÂśV\RXU favorite magazine or music during WKHĂ€LJKW(YHU\DLUFUDIWZLOOKDYH a state-of-the-art direct feedback system, which many of you may have already seen during the recent trial phase. This will allow you to provide OLYHIHHGEDFNWRRXUKHDGṘFHRQ how we can further improve or customize the service we provide on \RXUQH[WĂ€LJKW. Visit nasjet.com.sa IRULQIRUPDWLRQ


Client Privileges 1. ,I\RXDUHWUDYHOOLQJDQGSODQQLQJ WRVWD\LQ5L\DGKZLWKRXUSDUWQHUV WKH)RXU6HDVRQV+RWHO5L\DGKZH DUHSOHDVHGWRR̆HU\RXDQH[FOXVLYH NasJet rate for the unique Kingdom Suite. This spectacular new duplex suite VSDQVWKHWKDQGWKÀRRUV guaranteeing breathtaking views of the FLW\DQGR̆HUVDQLPSUHVVLYHVTP of palatial space for the exclusive EHQH¿WRILWVRFFXSDQWV Guests will feel like royalty with all the wonderful features that the .LQJGRP6XLWHKDVWRR̆HUVXFKDVD luxurious bedroom, a lavish bathroom, a dressing room, a make-up area, a walk-in closet, a kitchen with a private access, a private elevator inside the VXLWHDSULYDWHṘFHDOLYLQJURRPD dining room that can accommodate up to 10 persons, and a butler service.

MEET THE TEAM: Waleed Alqasoumi :DOHHG$OTDVRXPLW\SL¿HVWKH young generation of aviation professionals at NasJet keen to make their mark on the industry. Alqasoumi joined NasJet in 2011 as a Client Services Coordinator, GLUHFWO\KDQGOLQJFOLHQWVœÀLJKW requests and liaising with the Flight Centre. His talent for multi-tasking and getting the job done whilst under pressure landed an early promotion to the position of Client Services Supervisor. ³(YHU\GD\LVGL̆HUHQW7KHUH is absolutely no routine to our work and your knowledge base is expanding on a daily basis as you discover a new airport or new international operating procedure,� he says. As well as training young graduates in his new role, he continues to communicate with

clients and, over the past year, he’s been on call 24/7 whilst the Flight Centre rapidly expands to meet the demands of an ever JURZLQJÀHHW³,WœVQRWUDUHWR work 18 hours during the peak ÀLJKWSHULRGVDQGVRPHWLPHV ,œOOUDUHO\JHWDFKDQFHWRVHHP\ family,� he says. His introduction to private aviation came by chance after returning from Canada to Saudi Arabia having studied Chemical Engineering at Dalhousie University in Nova 6FRWLD&DQDGD+HEULHÀ\WULHG his hand at retail banking but found the job too monotonous and lacking in dynamism – which he prefers. Like any budding expert his ultimate ambition is to work in GL̆HUHQWGHSDUWPHQWVZLWKLQ NasJet and continue building on his aviation knowledge. - 23 -

2. NasJet has partnered with luxury travel group Abercrombie & Kent, which has been at the forefront of travel for over 50 years, pioneering luxury holidays and tailor-made holidays to established and emerging destinations around the world. 1DV-HWFOLHQWVFDQQRZEHQH¿W from a seamless experience from SULYDWHMHWÀLJKWWRDYDFDWLRQRID lifetime. For further information regarding both NasJet Privilege 2̆HUVSOHDVHFRQWDFWWKH&OLHQW Services team on +966 (0) 11 217 2070.


NASJET NEWS

OUR SERVICES $KRVWRIVHUYLFHVDZDLW\RXZKHQĂ€\LQJZLWK1DV-HW

AIRCRAFT SALES Buy from the best. As a worldclass owner, operator and manager of private aircraft in the middle HDVWVLQFHZHR̆HUUHDOWLPH market pricing analysis, aircraft ¿QDQFLQJZLWKSUHIHUUHGOHQGHUV aircraft inspections, sales and marketing collateral, and assertive price negotiation.

COMPLETIONS-ADVISORY %HQHÂżWIURPRXUH[SHULHQFH. We have the advantage of a close working relationship with many of the leading business jet manufacturers, including Boeing, Airbus, Gulfstream, Bombardier and Hawker Beechcraft. Over the years, the team has successfully completed over 45 new aircraft deliveries, working with owners to ensure their aircraft is completed to the highest VSHFLÂżFDWLRQDQGZLWKLQEXGJHW

AIRCRAFT MANAGEMENT +DYHWKHH[SHUWVGRDOOWKH work. Owning a private jet is certainly a pleasure, but it’s also a major undertaking. NasJet can take that stress away and give you peace of mind knowing that an established and experienced international operator is able to manage your DVVHWḢFLHQWO\1DV-HWKDVLQH[FHVV

of 67 aircraft under management. Aircraft owners gain many SULYLOHJHVDQG¿QDQFLDOEHQH¿WV by being within a NasJet-managed ÀHHWLQFOXGLQJHFRQRP\RIVFDOHRQ IXHOÀHHWLQVXUDQFHWUDLQLQJDQG maintenance.

FRACTIONAL $FFHVVDĂ&#x20AC;HHWRIMHWVÂąZLWK guaranteed availability. With the NasJet fractional program you buy a share in a jet, ranging from an eighth to a half. You can have all the advantages of aircraft ownership for a fraction of the cost. Your share guarantees you a FHUWDLQQXPEHURIĂ&#x20AC;LJKWKRXUVSHU year in your jet or in a comparable aircraft. Fractional ownership costs DUHSUHDJUHHGDQGÂż[HGDQQXDOO\Âą QRHQGRI\HDUÂżQDQFLDOVXUSULVHV just seamless international access to DĂ&#x20AC;HHWRIDLUFUDIW<RXFDQDOVRHQMR\ DOOWKHEHQHÂżWVRIWKHIUDFWLRQDO program without the long-term commitment, with the 12-month lease program.

FLIGHT SUPPORT ([SHUWLVHDQGSXUFKDVLQJ SRZHU. Using NasJetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unrivaled regional operational expertise and purchasing power, aircraft managed either by the principalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crew or an

- 24 -

LQWHUQDOFRUSRUDWHĂ&#x20AC;LJKWGHSDUWPHQW can access a menu of services SURYLGHGE\WKH1DV-HWĂ&#x20AC;LJKWFHQWUH

GROUND SERVICES In 2013 NasJet, and their partner ExecuJet, launched ground services IRUSULYDWHDLUFUDIWĂ&#x20AC;\LQJLQWRWKH 5L\DGKSULYDWHDYLDWLRQWHUPLQDO Saudi Arabia. The collaboration builds on the two partnersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; reputation for providing a superior and competitive level of service.

ON-DEMAND CHARTER 7KHEHVWRSWLRQ for ultimate Ă&#x20AC;H[LELOLW\ZLWKRXWWKHFRPPLWPHQW Chartering with NasJet gives clients access to the largest and PRVWFORVHO\PDQDJHGĂ&#x20AC;HHWLQWKH region. We are focused entirely on safety, service and value. By owning many of our aircraft, we are able to make an immediate decision on aircraft availability. NasJetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highly H[SHULHQFHGGHGLFDWHG days a year charter department, EDVHGLQ5L\DGKDUHDEOHWRSURYLGH instant competitive quotations. The NasJet block charter program has DOOWKHEHQHÂżWVRIDGKRFFKDUWHUEXW ZLWKJXDUDQWHHGDYDLODELOLW\Ă&#x20AC;H[LEOH payment terms and billing based on DFWXDOĂ&#x20AC;LJKWWLPHV Visit QDVMHWFRPVDIRULQIRUPDWLRQ


RADAR

Fashion forward Celebrating Norman Parkinson

- 26 -


Regarded as the grandfather of British fashion photography, Norman Parkinson’s pioneering career spanned 56 years. A new exhibition at Proud Chelsea in London celebrates his innovative approach of taking models away from the soulless studios that

had dominated pre-war fashion photography and into the real world. Adding glamour by shooting in exotic locations and making use of unique props, Parkinson’s bold photographs chart the transformation of women’s fashion from the utilitarian WWII years to - 27 -

the Swinging ‘60s and through to the ‘80s. In this 1958 shot, Coming and Going, Nena von Schlebrügge is dressed in in Yves Saint Laurent’s ¿UVWFROOHFWLRQIRU&KULVWLDQ'LRU Norman Parkinson: Always in Fashion, Proud Chelsea, until December 7, proud.co.uk


RADAR > Incredibly rare, incredibly desirable, the Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing is regularly described as one of the most beautiful classic cars of all time. Back in 1955, it was also touted as one of the most innovative, thanks to its slanted inline six-cylinder engine, which gave the car a lower centre of gravity and maintained the sleek line of the hood, direct fuel injection

and lightweight tubular frame, which gave rise to those magnificent gullwing doors. The iconic car is up for auction next month at RM Auctions’ annual sale in Arizona, USA. A staple on the global calendar for discerning collectors, the two-day auction takes place on January 15 to 16, with the Gullwing sure to attract spirited bidding. rmauctions.com

> It’s the Centre Pompidou’s turn to look back at the 35-year career of the enfant terrible Jeff Koons. Several works by the controversial artist are on display as part of the Le Rérospective exhibition, including the Total Equilibrium series (right), designed to represent what Koons called “the penultimate state of being”. Koons’

12-foot sculpture Balloon Dog became the most expensive piece of art by a living artist when it was sold for $US58 million in 2013, and the influence of the artist shows no sign of slowing down. Nor, for that matter, does his willingness to push boundaries. La Rétrospective will be on show until April 27. centrepompidou.fr - 28 -


DO YOU TRAVEL TO SEE OR TO DISCOVER?

Isn’t the real excitement of travel about discovering something new? At InterContinental® we use our local knowledge of a destination so you can enjoy what makes it unique. In Kuala Lumpur for example, our Concierge can arrange a trip to the city’s highest vantage point, Menara Kuala Lumpur Tower, where you can view the famous Petronas Towers from a different perspective. Whatever you choose to do, we can help you discover truly authentic experiences that will stay with you long after you come home.

Do you live an InterContinental life? As a valued IHG® Rewards Club member, the luxuries continue: • Earn points faster now when you stay and dine at InterContinental Hotels and Resorts • Complimentary internet worldwide

For more information or to make a reservation, please call 800 897 1465 (KSA) or 800 4642 (UAE) or visit intercontinental.com

In over 170 locations across the globe including DU BA I • KUA L A LUMPUR • LON DON • SINGA POR E


RADAR

MOST WANTED Looking for the ultimate festive gift? Be inspired by these perfect presents

Diamonds – and emeralds – are a girl’s best friend, thanks to David Morris’ recent Biennale des Antiquaires collection. davidmorris.com

Good things come in small packages, like Bulgari’s mother-of-pearl minaudière, part of Harvey Nichols – Dubai’s The Treasury gift selection. bulgari.com

Cocktail hour awaits with Tiffany’s 18-carat white gold timepiece with diamonds and black satin-finish strap. tiffany.com

- 30 -


Limited to just 47 crystal bottles, this Guerlain fragrance is part of The Treasury exclusive gift selection at Harvey Nichols – Dubai.

Inspired by an aircraft fuselage, dunhill’s Avorities carbon fibre pens are perfect for the man on the move. dunhill.com

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Diamond Breeze collection adds a luxurious sparkle to the season. vancleefarpels.com

Add a touch of luxury to the everyday with Cottin’s 24-carat gold iPad mini. cottinparis.com

- 31 -


TI M E O N YO U R S I D E when you feel something extraordinary, a rush of excitement, awe and wonder. moments that make us cry with happiness, that make us laugh until our tummies hurt, times we cant wait to experience again and again and again…

bringing wonderful back into our lives. nurai, your private island resort.

beach retreats . water villas . beach estates

gps: 24° 36.880’, 54° 28.567’ t: +971 2 5066 222 e: reservations@nurai.com w: zayanuraiisland.com


CRITIQUE

Film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies Dir: Peter Jackson Bilbo Baggins’ and his allies are forced into a war that could obliterate all of Middle Earth. AT BEST: “Jackson claims that The Battle of the Five Armies is his IDYRXULWHLQVWDOPHQWLQWKHWULORJ\´ Screenrant AT WORST: “Jackson got a bit lost in DQRYHUO\DPELWLRXVSURMHFW´Verge

Annie Dir: Will Gluck Annie is a tough but happy foster kid whose life is turned upside down when New York mayoral candidate Jamie Foxx enters her life. AT BEST: “The leading pair are in ¿QHIRUPZLWKGHFHQWFKHPLVWU\´ Screenrant AT WORST: “The music in this hipper and more contemporary Annie GRHVQ¶WDOZD\VWUDGHXS´NY Daily

Mr. Turner Dir: Mike Leigh Timothy Spall once again totally inhabits a character – this time, the famed painter J.M.W Turner, whose radical style changed the art world. AT BEST: “Timothy Spall gives the ¿QHVWSHUIRUPDQFHRIKLVFDUHHUWR GDWH´The Telegraph AT WORST: “Some have read Joshua McGuire’s broad comic caricature of an art critic as an attack on critics in JHQHUDO´The Guardian

Exodus: Gods and Kings Dir: Ridley Scott Moses rises up against the Egyptian Pharaoh Ramses, and tries to free 600,000 slaves. AT BEST: “Scott is back to the resplendent gold of Gladiator, DVKHGUDPDWLVHVWKHIDFHR̆ EHWZHHQ0RVHVDQG5DPVHV,,´The Guardian AT WORST: “Exodus: Gods And .LQJVKDVDVWXSLGO\ORQJUXQWLPH´ CinemaBlend - 33 -


CRITIQUE

Books The revered architect of the Ottoman (PSLUH¶VPRVWPDJQL¿FHQWPRVTXHV SOD\VDOHDGLQJUROHLQ7XUNLVK DXWKRU(OLI6KDIDN¶VODWHVWZRUNRI KLVWRULF¿FWLRQ6HWLQWKFHQWXU\ ,VWDQEXO7KH$UFKLWHFW¶V$SSUHQWLFH WHOOVWKHVWRU\RI\HDUROG-DKDQ DSHQQLOHVV,QGLDQER\ZKRVWRZV DZD\RQDVKLSERXQGIRU7XUNH\ FDUU\LQJWKHJLIWRIDZKLWHHOHSKDQW QDPHG&KRWDIRUWKH6XOWDQ:KHQ he catches the eye of the royal DUFKLWHFW0LPDU6LQDQDQGWKH 6XOWDQ¶VEHDXWLIXOGDXJKWHU-DKDQ LVSURPRWHGIURPVLPSOHPDKRXWWR DSSUHQWLFH±DQGKLVIRUWXQHVWDNH DP\VWHULRXVWXUQ:KLOH-DKDQDQG &KRWDDUHSXUHLQYHQWLRQVPDQ\ of the characters in the novel are EDVHGRQKLVWRULFDO¿JXUHVLQFOXGLQJ 6LQDQZKRVHUYHGWKUHH2WWRPDQ HPSHURUVRYHU\HDUV(DFK 6XOWDQ¶VUHLJQSURGXFHGPRVTXHV HQYLVLRQHGDQGH[HFXWHGE\WKH DUFKLWHFWPDQ\RIZKLFKVWLOOH[LVW WRGD\7KH³SORWULFKFKDUDFWHU GULYHQ´QRYHOLVD³FDUHIXOO\ FUDIWHGZRUNRILPDJLQDWLRQWKDW both reveals and conceals its VNLOO´VD\V5HEHFFD$EUDPVRIWKH )LQDQFLDO7LPHV³,WZLOOFRQ¿UP 6KDIDN¶VUHSXWDWLRQDVDZULWHURI LPSUHVVLYHUDQJHZKRTXLHWO\UHVLVWV categorisation and is not afraid to DVNWKHELJTXHVWLRQV´-DPHV5XQFLH of the Independent believes this LV6KDIDN¶VPRVWDPELWLRXVQRYHO \HWDGGLQJ³,WLVKHUEHVW±WROG ZLWKDJHQHURXVKXPDQLW\WKDWZLOO VXUHO\UHDOLJQDWWLWXGHVERWKWRWKH LPDJLQDWLYHSRVVLELOLWLHVRI¿FWLRQ DQGWRWKHFRQVWUXFWHGUHDOLW\RIWKH ZRUOGDURXQGXV´ ,I\RX¶UHORRNLQJIRUD³FOHYHU FODVV\SDJHWXUQHU´ORRNQRIXUWKHU WKDQ0LFKDHO&RQQHOO\¶V7KH %XUQLQJ5RRP$SSHDULQJLQKLV WKQRYHOZLWKUHWLUHPHQWORRPLQJ YHWHUDQ/$3'GHWHFWLYH+DUU\%RVFK DQGKLVURRNLHSDUWQHU/XFLD6RWR LQYHVWLJDWHWKHPXUGHURIDPDQZKR VXGGHQO\GLHVIURPFRPSOLFDWLRQV RIEHLQJVKRWE\DVWUD\EXOOHWWHQ

\HDUVHDUOLHU$VWKHLULQYHVWLJDWLRQ WXUQVXSHYLGHQFHWKDWUHYHDOVWKH VKRRWLQJZDVDQ\WKLQJEXWUDQGRP the politically sensitive case EHFRPHVHYHQPRUHGLÌ&#x2021;FXOWZKHQ LWOHDGVWRDQRWKHUXQVROYHGFDVH ZLWKHYHQJUHDWHUVWDNHVWKHGHDWKV RIVHYHUDOFKLOGUHQLQD¿UHWKDW RFFXUUHG\HDUVDJR%XWZKHQ WKHLUZRUNVWDUWVWRWKUHDWHQFDUHHUV DQGOLYHVWKHGHWHFWLYHVPXVWGHFLGH ZKHWKHULW¶VVDIHUWROHWVRPHVHFUHWV VWD\EXULHG7KH$PHULFDQDXWKRU ³LVDSDLURIHPLQHQWO\VDIHKDQGV DQG7KH%XUQLQJ5RRPLVDSOHDVXUH - 34 -

WRUHDG´VD\VWKH*XDUGLDQ¶V$OLVRQ )ORRG-DQHW0DVOLQRIWKH1HZ<RUN 7LPHVGHFODUHVLW³WKHEHVW%RVFK ERRNLQ\HDUV´QRWRQO\EHFDXVHRI LWV³VKDUSGLDORJXHDQGIDVWSDFHG GHWHFWLYHZL]DUGU\EXWDOVREHFDXVH LWQHLWKHUGDZGOHVQRUOHWV+DUU\ JHWPRRG\´7KH%RVFKVHULHV³KDV LWVKLJKVDQGORZV´VD\V0DVOLQEXW WKHODWHVWLQVWDOOPHQW³LVSHUFKHG RQDKLOOWRS´2QHRIWKHSOHDVXUHV RIUHDGLQJWKHQRYHOLVWKHZD\WKDW &RQQHOO\³VQHDNVPLQRUGHWDLOVSDVW WKHUHDGHURQO\WRLPSOHPHQWWKHP ODWHULQWKHJDPH´


CRITIQUE

The winter season is the ideal time to re-acquaint yourself with favourites and classics from years gone by. The Royal Ballet’s festive version of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland at the Royal Opera House is the perfect way to tumble down the rabbit hole. Sarah Crompton of the Telegraph says that since the performance has been split into three acts (from two previously), “it fairly zings along but now there is time to appreciate Alice’s lovely encounters with the dissolving Cheshire Cat, the gyrating Caterpillar, the enraged Duchess and – above all – the deranged Red Queen”. Of course, a story as vivid as Alice’s must have dramatic set design, and this aspect of the performance also delighted Crompton, who says: “It is impossible not to be entranced by the ZD\$OLFHWXPEOHVKHDG¿UVWGRZQDUHDOKROHRQWKH stage and then a puppet version of the same character is VKRZQRQ¿OPWXPEOLQJWKURXJKDGL]]\LQJVSLUDOWRWKH ground.” Interestingly, this winter’s performance will also be screened live to cinemas around the country on December 16 and 28. Until December 28. New York is treated to the stage version of the smashhit The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time at the Ethel Barrymore Theatre. Playing from now until April 26, 2015, the play tells the story of Christopher, a young autistic boy who sets out to investigate the murder of his neighbour’s dog, Wellington. Those familiar with WKHERRNPLJKWEHFRQFHUQHGDERXWWKHGL̇FXOWLHVLQ adapting the text for the stage, but Brendan Lemon of WKH)LQDQFLDO7LPHVVD\VDQ\ZRUULHVDUHXQMXVWL¿HG “The narration provided by his teacher, Siobhan, helps ease us through some of the story’s brambles.” The performance of Christopher by Juilliard School graduate, Alex Sharp, is “the kind of smashing Broadway debut young actors classically dream about”, says

Ben Brantley of the New York Times, while audiences should “be prepared to have all your emotional and sensory buttons pushed, including a few you may have not known existed”. Brantley isn’t so convinced by the transition from book to play, noting that when the second act opens to Siobhan convincing Christopher to put on a play, “this eventually leads to a slightly cloying and hoary theatrical self-consciousness.” There’s no denying, however, that The Curious Incident... is one of the most successful crossover hits in recent history. Another book-to-stage adaptation is newly thrilling audiences at London’s National Theatre. Behind The Beautiful Forevers is “a gripping tale of life and loss in the Mumbai slums just dying to burst free”, according to 9LFWRULD6DGOHURIWKH+ẊQJWRQ3RVW7KHSURGXFWLRQ explores the dark side of India’s rapid economic growth, and Sadler says: “The way director Rufus Norris has recreated the Mumbai slums on the Olivier stage is almost breath-taking. The energy and the tumbling chaos of this world is quite something to behold.” For Susannah Clapp of the Guardian, the performance should be commended for its forward-thinking. She says: “It is a leap for the National. The setting is out of Great Britain; the cast is huge (more than 30 actors). The stories are important. The inhabitants of Annawadi have scarcely been heard before now. They live in the shadow of the airport, overlooked by luxury hotels.” Clapp also explores the problems of putting a book on stage, saying: “It would have been impossible to put all Boo’s intricacies on stage. Sensibly, though surprisingly for a political playwright, Hare has dispensed with some of the party political discussion, and there is a smudge of sentimentality in the ending which makes the drama less not more moving.” Until April 13, 2015.

- 36 -

,PDJH%ULQNKR̆0RHJHQEXUJ

Theatre


You can seek the help of one doctor.

Or you can turn to Mayo Clinic.

At Mayo Clinic, a team of experts works together for you. No wonder Mayo Clinic was recognized as the No. 1 hospital in the United States by U.S. News & World Report. Visit mayoclinic.org or mayoclinic.org/arabic to learn more. ROCHESTER , MINNESOTA , USA

|

PHOENIX /SCOTTSDALE , ARIZONA , USA

|

JACKSONVILLE , FLORIDA , USA


CRITIQUE

Staged to coincide with this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s FHQWHQDU\RI::,&RQÃ&#x20AC;LFW7LPH 3KRWRJUDSK\DWWKH7DWH0RGHUQLQ London is â&#x20AC;&#x153;a subtle and haunting evocation of the past that does not UHVRUWWRPDZNLVKQHVV´VD\VWKH 7HOHJUDSK¶V$ODVWDLU6RRNH7KH exhibition focuses on the passing RIWLPHWUDFLQJDGLYHUVHDQG poignant journey through over 150 \HDUVRIFRQÃ&#x20AC;LFWDURXQGWKHZRUOG VLQFHWKHLQYHQWLRQRISKRWRJUDSK\ ,QWHUHVWLQJO\WKHZRUNVDUHRUGHUHG according to how long after the event WKH\ZHUHFUHDWHGIURPPRPHQWV GD\VDQGZHHNVWRGHFDGHVODWHU 3KRWRJUDSKVWDNHQVHYHQPRQWKV DIWHUWKH¿UHERPELQJRI'UHVGHQ DUHVKRZQDORQJVLGHLPDJHVPDGH

LQ9LHWQDP\HDUVDIWHUWKHIDOO RI6DLJRQ7KHUHIRUHWKLVLVQRWDQ H[KLELWLRQDERXWSKRWRMRXUQDOLVP EXWUDWKHUUHPHPEUDQFH±³DERXW how artists, and by extension VRFLHWLHVFRPHWRWHUPVZLWK WKHDWURFLWLHVDQGWUDXPDVRIWKH SDVW´VD\V6RRNH³$VDUHVXOW WKHPRRGLVPRVWO\VRPEUHDQG elegiac â&#x20AC;&#x201C; preferring the coolness of FRQWHPSODWLRQWRWKHKHDWRIEDWWOH 7KHUHLVDJKRVWO\TXDOLW\WRPDQ\ of the photographs, even those that ZHUHWDNHQVHFRQGVDIWHUDQDWWDFN´

WUXQFDWHGKXPDQ legs and bodies with actual KXPDQKDLU 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ says Lance (VSOXQGRIWKH Wall Street Journal, the ZRUNLV³WKHKLJK point of Goberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oeuvre and of 0R0$¶VVXUYH\´ 7KHDUWLVWLVDW â&#x20AC;&#x153;his rawest and PRVWFRQYLQFLQJ ±PRVWVXUUHDO â&#x20AC;&#x201C; when he NHHSVWKLQJV VLPSOH´EXW instead he can ³RYHUZRUNKLV WKHPHV´'HVSLWH the artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;hyperbolic PLVVWHSVWKLV VKRZKDVÃ&#x20AC;DVKHVRIUHGHPSWLRQ´ 7KH(YHQLQJ6WDQGDUG¶V%HQ/XNH including the intricate underDSSODXGVWKH³LQQRYDWLYHDSSURDFK´ Ã&#x20AC;RRUSLHFH8QWLWOHG  ZKLFK WRGLVSOD\LQJWKHLPDJHVDQGVD\V (VSOXQGVD\VLV³VXUSULVLQJO\ WKHVKRZ³GUDJV\RXULPDJLQDWLRQ LQWRXQFRPIRUWDEOHWHUULWRULHV´7KH PDJLFDO´DQG³WKHRQHLQVWDQFHLQ WKLVH[KLELWLRQZKHUH0R0$IHHOV RQO\UHDOÃ&#x20AC;DZLQWKLV³RWKHUZLVH WUXO\WUDQVIRUPHG´7KH*XDUGLDQ¶V VRQRURXVDQGGHHSO\DÌ&#x2020;HFWLQJ -DVRQ)DUDJRPHDQZKLOHVD\VLWLV H[KLELWLRQ´LVWKHEXVWOLQJDQQH[H a â&#x20AC;&#x153;sober, unhurried and genuinely to the exhibition, which fuses DÌ&#x2020;HFWLQJ´H[KLELWLRQ2YHUWKUHH SKRWRJUDSK\DQGPHPRUDELOLDWKDW decades Gober has produced â&#x20AC;&#x153;rather interferes with its clear and sculptures and drawings that are FRPSHOOLQJORJLF´VD\V/XNHUntil â&#x20AC;&#x153;spare, sad, eccentric and deeply March 2015. PRYLQJ±EXWPRYLQJLQDZD\ ,Q1HZ<RUN0R0$SUHVHQWV WKDWFDQEHPDGGHQLQJO\KDUG a 40-year retrospective of WRH[SODLQ´KHDGGV7KHVKRZ¶V FRQWURYHUVLDOFRQWHPSRUDU\DUWLVW FDWDORJXHGRHVQ¶WVKLQHPXFKOLJKW 5REHUW*REHU7KH+HDUW,V1RWD 0HWDSKRUIHDWXUHVDURXQGZRUNV on possible narratives, preferring ³LQWLPDF\WRDQDO\VLV´DOWKRXJKLW DFURVVVHYHUDOPHGLXPVLQFOXGLQJ FRQWDLQV³RQHRIWKHPRVWEHDXWLIXO LQGLYLGXDOVFXOSWXUHVLPPHUVLYH HVVD\VRQFRQWHPSRUDU\DUW,KDYH VFXOSWXUDOHQYLURQPHQWVDQGD UHDGLQ\HDUV´VD\V)DUDJRD GLVWLQFWLYHVHOHFWLRQRIGUDZLQJV SDJHWRXUGHIRUFHE\1HZ<RUNHU 7KHRSHQLQJJDOOHU\IHDWXUHVKLV FULWLF+LOWRQ$OV³WKDWVHWV*REHU¶V QHR'DGDLVWFODVVLF8QWLWOHG/HJ ZRUNDPLGSHUVRQDOH[SORUDWLRQVRI  WKH¿UVWRIZKDWZRXOG EHFRPH*REHU¶VVLJQDWXUHKDQGPDGH VH[XDOUDFLDODQGUHOLJLRXVLGHQWLW\´ Until January 18, 2015. life-size beeswax sculptures of - 38 -

Shell Shocked US Marine, Vietnam, Hue 1968, printed 2013. © Don McCullin. Robert Gober Untitled. 1980-81. Ron Amstutz, courtesy the artist and Matthew Marks Gallery. © 2014 Robert Gober.

Art


OPTIMIZED UNRIVALED Aviation experts claim you can’t have it all. Don’t believe it. The optimized design of the all-new Gulfstream G500™ and G600™ shifts the aeronautical paradigm. Fly farther faster without sacrificing cabin comfort, fuel efficiency or field performance. With the G500 and G600, the future of business aviation is boundless.

ALLAN STANTON | +971 50 653 5258 | allan.stanton@gulfstream.com | GULFSTREAM.COM *Maximum ranges shown are based on NBAA IFR theoretical range with eight passengers and typical crew. Actual range will be affected by ATC routing, operating speed, weather, outfitting options and other factors. All performance is based on preliminary data and subject to change.


ART & DESIGN

F

URPWKHRXWVLGHLW¶V DOOZKLWHZDVKHG ZDOOVDQG9LFWRULDQ DUFKLWHFWXUH6WHS WKURXJKLWVGRRUV DQGLW¶VDULRWRIQRQ FRQIRUPLW\DQGFUHDWLYLW\7RXWHG DV/RQGRQ¶V¿UVWµDQWLJDOOHU\¶+HLVW LVD¿QHDUWSKRWRJUDSK\FROOHFWLYH ORFDWHGLQDUHVLGHQWLDOSURSHUW\ LQ/RQGRQ¶V1RWWLQJ+LOO DOEHLWD JLQRUPRXVRQH $QGLWLVWKLVNLWVFK VHWWLQJWKDWHPERGLHVLWVIRXQGHU¶V YLVLRQHQWLUHO\ ³:K\GRZHFDOOLWDQDQWL JDOOHU\"´DVNV+HLVWFRIRXQGHU 0DVKDHO$O5XVKDLG³%HFDXVH LWHOLPLQDWHVWKHGLYLGHWKDW \RX¶GXVXDOO\KDYHLQDZKLWH FXEHH[SHULHQFH:KDWPDNHVXV GLÌ&#x2020;HUHQWDQGZK\,FDPHWRWKLV LGHDLQLWLDOO\LV,VWRSSHGJRLQJWR JDOOHULHV,ZDVWLUHGRIWKHZKLWH FXEHH[SHULHQFHDQG,IHOWWKDWLWZDV YHU\LPSHUVRQDO,DOVRIRXQGWKDWQR RQH¶VKRPHUHDOO\ORRNVOLNHDJDOOHU\ DQGDJDOOHU\LVQRWDUHSUHVHQWDWLRQ RIOLYLQJZLWKDUW,W¶VVRPHWKLQJ PRUHSHUVRQDO<RX¶UHEX\LQJDUWWR OLYHZLWKLWDQG,FRXOGQ¶WJHWDVHQVH

RIZKDWLWZRXOGIHHOOLNHWROLYHZLWK WKLVDUWZRUNVR,WKRXJKWµZK\QRW KROGH[KLELWLRQVLQDUHVLGHQWLDO SURSHUW\WKDWLVFRQVWDQWO\ FKDQJLQJ¶"´ 2ULJLQDOO\IURP6DXGL$UDELD$O 5XVKDLG¿UVWODXQFKHG+HLVWRQOLQH ZLWKWZREXVLQHVVSDUWQHUV DIWHU ³WKHUHZDVQ¶WDZHEVLWHWKDWVHOOV DUWSKRWRJUDSK\WKDW,VSHFL¿FDOO\ ZRXOGJRWR´7KHQLQ-XQHWKLV\HDU LWVUHVLGHQWLDOFRXQWHUSDUWVZXQJ RSHQLWVGRRUVVODSLQWKHPLGGOHRI 1RWWLQJ+LOO$,5FDXJKWXSZLWK $O5XVKDLGGXULQJWKHVHWXSRI7KH 5RDGWR(O\VLXP+HLVW¶V¿UVWJURXS H[KLELWLRQDQGLWVVHFRQGH[KLELWLRQ ZLWKJDOOHU\GLUHFWRU7\URQH:RRG DWWKHKHOP,QEHWZHHQWKHVRXQG RIEHDWLQJKDPPHUV ³:H¶UHLQ WKHSURFHVVRIFRQVWUXFWLQJDZDOO LQWKHJDOOHU\EHFDXVHRQHRIWKH SLHFHVLQWKLVH[KLELWLRQLVDWUXH WRVFDOH7KHZDOOFRXOGQ¶WFDUU\LW VRZH¶UHEXLOGLQJDZDOO´ WKH³¿QH DUWSKRWRJUDSK\ORYHU´VD\V³,IHHO SHRSOHDUHWLUHGRIÃ&#x20AC;DWVXUIDFHVDQG VWHULOHHQYLURQPHQWV:H¶UHDWDQ DJHZKHUHSHRSOHORRNIRUDPRUH LPPHUVLYHH[SHULHQFHZKLFKLV

ZK\ZHLQFRUSRUDWHSHUIRUPDQFH LQVSLUHGE\HDFKH[KLELWLRQ0RVW LPSRUWDQWO\WKHJDOOHU\LVFRQVWDQWO\ FKDQJLQJLQDYLVXDOVHQVH,W¶VDQ H[SHULHQFHLQDKRPHVRSHRSOH GRQ¶W¶IHHOWKDWVHQVHRIIRUPDOLW\ DQGWKHUH¶VQRGLYLGHEHWZHHQWKH DUWLVWVDQGWKHFROOHFWRUVVRHYHU\RQH JHWVWRLQWHUDFWZLWKWKHDUWLVWV,W¶V PDNLQJSHRSOHQRWWKHVSHFWDWRUVEXW DOVRVXEMHFWVLQWKHYHU\DUWZRUNV WKH\FRXOGSRWHQWLDOO\EHEX\LQJ´ $VWURQJGHVLUHWRFUHDWHDSURGXFW DWRGGVZLWKDJDOOHU\VHHPVWR PRWLYDWH$O5XVKDLGLQKHUTXHVW IRUSRVLWLRQLQJSKRWRJUDSK\DVDQ HTXDOPHGLXPWRVD\SDLQWLQJ $QGWKH6DXGLDUWVSDWURQLVQRW DORQH5HFHQW¿JXUHVIURP$UW7DFWLF UHYHDOWKDWWKHOHYHORIFRQ¿GHQFH LQPRGHUQDQGFRQWHPSRUDU\ SKRWRJUDSK\LVJURZLQJZLWKD SHUFHQWLQFUHDVHRYHUWKH ODVWVL[PRQWKV±WKHKLJKHVW OHYHOQRWHGVLQFH0DUFK7KH VSLNHKDVEHHQGULYHQE\DQHZ JHQHUDWLRQRIFROOHFWRUVEHWZHHQ DQG\HDUVROGDQGSRSXODU SKRWRJUDSKLFH[KLELWLRQVVXFKDV WKRVHE\+HOPXW1HZWRQZKLFK

Co-foundingWKH¿UVWµDQWLgDOOHU\¶LQ/RQGRQDQGDSSRLQWLQgWKHVRQRID 5ROOLQg6WRQHDVLWVGLUHFWRUZDVERXQGWRVSDUNLQWHUHVW$V+HLVWFHOHEUDWHV LWV¿UVWgURXSH[KLELWLRQ,0DVKDHO$O5XVKDLGWDNHV$,5RQDWRXURIKHU ODWHVWSURMHFWDQGH[SODLQVZK\SKRWRgUDSK\,¿QDOO\,LVHVWDEOLVKLQgLWVHOI DVDULYDOWRRWKHUPHGLXPV

- 40 -


- 41 -

Image: By Madame Peripetie


ART & DESIGN LQ/RQGRQ$O5XVKDLGVWXGLHGLQ WKH86 ³ZKHUH,GLG,QWHUQDWLRQDO 5HODWLRQVDQGDQH[HFXWLYHGHJUHH LQ,QQRYDWLRQDQG&OHDQ7HFK±YHU\ XQUHODWHG´ ZRUNHGLQRLODQGJDV ZLWKLQKHUIDPLO\UXQ¿UP DQG GDEEOHGLQ¿OP ³,ZRUNHGRQD¿OP UHFHQWO\7KH6TXDUHWKDWZRQWKUHH (PP\VDQGZDV2VFDUQRPLQDWHG IRUEHVWGRFXPHQWDU\´ $QGZKLOH KHU6RXWK.HQVLQJWRQSDGLVPLOHV IURPKHUKRPHFRXQWU\RI6DXGL $UDELDWKH0LGGOH(DVWLVRIJUHDW VLJQL¿FDQFHWRWKHEXVLQHVVZRPDQ ³,¶YHEHHQUHDOO\OXFN\WRKDYHD OLEHUDOXSEULQJLQJ0\SDUHQWV KDYHDOZD\VEHHQYHU\VXSSRUWLYH RIXVKDYLQJP\RZQIRRWLQJ DQGWKHLPSRUWDQFHRIHGXFDWLRQ ,¶YHEHHQGRLQJLQWHUQVKLSVDQG ZRUNLQJEHFDXVHRIWKHFXOWXUH

Heist co-founder Mashael Al Rushaid

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Why do we call it an anti-gallery? Because it eliminates that divide that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d usually have in a white cube experienceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; WKH\¶YHEURXJKWPHXSZLWKVLQFH ,ZDVDERXW±ZKLFKLVQRWYHU\ WUDGLWLRQDOIURPRXUSDUWRIWKH ZRUOGEXWLW¶VKRZP\SDUHQWVJUHZ XSDQG,JXHVVWKH\EURXJKWPHXS WKHVDPHDQGOXFN\IRUPHIRUWKDW´ :H¶YHHVWDEOLVKHGWKDW+HLVWLV GHFLGHGO\QRWDJDOOHU\'RHV$O 5XVKDLGWKLQNVXFKDQLGHDFDQ ZRUNLQWKH0LGGOH(DVW"³:H¶UH ZDVJUHDWEHFDXVH,WDSSHGLQWRKLV DUHEHDWLQJYLVLWRUUHFRUGVVHWE\ LQWDONVDFWXDOO\ZLWKDQRQSUR¿W QHWZRUNRIFROOHFWRUVDQGLWMXVW H[KLELWLRQVRISDLQWLQJV$QGZKLOH FROOHFWLQJSKRWRJUDSK\LVVRPHWKLQJ PDGHVHQVH´$ERXWWKHJURXSVKRZ JRYHUQPHQWDORUJDQLVDWLRQLQ6DXGL WKDWKDVLQYLWHGXVWRFXUDWHDQGKRVW VKHDGGV³:LWKWKLVH[KLELWLRQZH WKDWKLVWRULFDOO\FRQWLQXHVWR DQH[KLELWLRQIRUSKRWRJUDSK\LQWKH DLPWRXVHVWULNLQJSKRWRJUDSK\ EHPDLQO\EDVHGLQ$PHULFDDQG FRPLQJVL[PRQWKV)RUVXUH'XEDL DQGLPPHUVLYHLQVWDOODWLRQVWRWDNH (XURSHWKHUHVWRIWKHZRUOGLV YLVLWRUVRQDGUHDPOLNHMRXUQH\DQG DQG1HZ<RUNDUHGH¿QLWHO\FLWLHV VORZO\FDWFKLQJRQ WKDWZHZRXOGORYHWRH[SORUH6ORZO\ WUDQVSRUWWKHPWRDXWRSLDQZRUOG 5HWXUQLQJWRURFNHU5RQQLH EXWVXUHO\±ZHMXVWVWDUWHGLQ-XQH´ :RRG¶VVRQIRUDPRPHQWDQGZKLOH UHMHFWLQJWKHYLROHQFHFRQÃ&#x20AC;LFW )RUQRZWKRXJK$O5XVKDLG KHPLJKWEHWRXULQJZLWK7KH5ROOLQJ DQGLQMXVWLFHVRIRXURZQ:HDUH VHWWOHVRQ³EULQJLQJ+HLVWWRWKH GHGLFDWHGWRH[KLELWLQJWKHZRUNV 6WRQHVDWWKHWLPHRIRXULQWHUYLHZ IRUHIURQWRIZKDW,KRSHLWFRXOGEH $O5XVKDLGLVFRQ¿GHQWDERXW+HLVW¶V RIDPELWLRXVSKRWRJUDSKHUVZKR FRQWLQXDOO\SXVKWKHERXQGDULHVDQG ±DQG,KRSHLWFRXOGEHWKHIDFHRI IXWXUHXQGHU:RRG¶VGLUHFWLRQ³+H SKRWRJUDSK\LQWKH8.´The Road KDVDKXJHQHWZRUNDW6FUHDP±KLP DOOWKHSLHFHVRQGLVSOD\DUHWUXHWR to Elysium runs until January 12 at WKLVFDXVH´ DQGKLVEURWKHUKDGWKHJDOOHU\IRU Heist, heist-online.com %HIRUHVHWWOLQJRQDQDQWLJDOOHU\ \HDUV±VR,WKLQNXVFRPELQHG - 42 -


- 43 -

Image: By Madame Peripetie


ART & DESIGN

- 44 -


Once upon a time

As a new exhibition explores the link between classic tales and catwalk shows, AIR looks at fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s everlasting love affair with fairy tales

F

URPKDXWHFRXWXUH LQVSLUHGE\ &LQGHUHOODWRFDWZDON VKRZVVHWLQZLQWHU\ ZRQGHUODQGVWKH DHVWKHWLFRIIDLU\ WDOHVKDVDOZD\VEHHQDGUDZIRU IDVKLRQGHVLJQHUV:KLOH.DUO /DJHUIHOGDGGHGDVSODVKRIUHDOLW\ WRKLVDXWXPQZLQWHUFDWZDON VKRZIRU&KDQHOVHQGLQJPRGHOV GRZQWKHDLVOHVRIDVXSHUPDUNHW PDQ\RIKLVFRQWHPSRUDULHVVKRZHG

<RXZDQWWKHFORWKHVWRLQVSLUHDV ZHOODVHPSRZHU´ $JDLQVWWKHEDFNGURSRIDQ HQFKDQWHGIRUHVW'ROFH *DEEDQD¶V DXWXPQZLQWHUUHIHUHQFHG VWRU\ERRNKHURLQHVLQFOXGLQJ /LWWOH5HG5LGLQJ+RRGDQG &LQGHUHOOD³:HZHUHLQVSLUHGE\ IDLU\WDOHVLPDJLQLQJRXUZRPDQ DVDQHQFKDQWHGFUHDWXUHOLYLQJLQ DVHFUHWJDUGHQ´VDLG'RPHQLFR 'ROFHEDFNVWDJH0RGHOVVWHSSHG RXWLQKRRGHGVZLQJFRDWVDSSOLTXHG

DQJODLVHZLWKÃ&#x20AC;RXQFHGVOHHYHVRU ZDUOLNHVDYDJHVLQWKLFNJRDWIXU KRRGVDQGVFXOSWHGVKLQ\FUDFNOH OHDWKHUMDFNHWVRUOHDQWURXVHUV ³7KHUH¶VNLQGRIDQLQQRFHQFHEXW VWULSSHGEDFNDQGOLEHUDWHG´%XUWRQ WROG::'EDFNVWDJH 7KHGDUNHUKHDUWRIIDLU\WDOHVLV DOVRERXQGWRDSSHDOWRGHVLJQHUV )DUIURPEHLQJWKHZKLPVLFDO DQLPDWHG'LVQH\VWRULHVZHDUHDOO IDPLOLDUZLWKWKHRULJLQVRIZHOO NQRZQIDLU\WDOHVDUHRIWHQEDVHG

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fairy tales reflect the transformative promise of fashion itselfâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; WKDWIDVKLRQZLOODOZD\VORYHIDQWDV\ 6RZKDWLVDERXWFHQWXULHVROG VWRULHVWKDWFDSWXUHWKHLPDJLQDWLRQ RIGHVLJQHUV")DLU\WDOHVRIWHQWHOO RIWUDQVIRUPDWLRQIURPSHDVDQWWR SULQFHVVRUIURJWRSULQFHUHÃ&#x20AC;HFWLQJ WKHWUDQVIRUPDWLYHSURPLVHRI IDVKLRQLWVHOI³0U'LRUVDLGKH ZDQWHGWRµPDNHZRPHQGUHDP¶´ UHPDUNHG%LOO*D\WWHQKHDG GHVLJQHUDW&KULVWLDQ'LRULQDQ LQWHUYLHZZLWKWKH)LQDQFLDO7LPHV ³7KDWIDQWDV\HOHPHQWLVLPSRUWDQW

ZLWKIR[HVVTXLUUHOVDQGRZOVDQG UXFKHGFKLÌ&#x2020;RQGUHVVHVZLWKSHDVDQW QHFNOLQHVSXÌ&#x2020;HGVOHHYHVDQG FRUVHWWHGZDLVWV $W$OH[DQGHU0F4XHHQ PHDQZKLOHFUHDWLYHGLUHFWRU6DUDK %XUWRQFLWHG%HDXW\DQGWKH%HDVW ³DZLOGEHDXWLIXOIDLU\WDOH´ DVKHU LQVSLUDWLRQ:LWKVPRNHULVLQJIURP PRVV\PRXQGVRIHDUWKPRGHOVZHUH PRVWO\GUHVVHGLQEODFNDQGZKLWH HQVHPEOHVUHVHPEOLQJ9LFWRULDQ PDLGHQVLQVWDUFKHGZKLWHEURGHULH - 45 -

RQPRUHVLQLVWHUWKHPHV-HDQ3DXO *DXOWLHUHPEUDFHGWKHGDUNVLGH GXULQJKLVDXWXPQZLQWHU VKRZIHDWXULQJJRWKLFYLOODLQHVVHVLQ VPRXOGHULQJEODFNVHTXLQQHGKRRGV DQGGHJUDGHRUJDQ]D,QVSLUHGE\ $QJHOLQD-ROLHLQWKH¿OP0DOH¿FHQW ZKLFKWHOOVWKH6OHHSLQJ%HDXW\ VWRU\IURPWKHSHUVSHFWLYHRIWKH HYLOTXHHQ*DXOWLHUVHQWDPRGHO GRZQWKHUXQZD\KROGLQJDPLUURULQ ZKLFKVKHSRXWHGDQGFDFNOHG :HODVWZLWQHVVHGWKHVWRU\WHOOLQJ


ART & DESIGN

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The nod towards escapism looks set to continue with next yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cinderella live-action extravaganzaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; LQWHUPVRIWKHLUSURGXFWLRQYDOXHV >ZKLFKDUH@HYHUPRUHHODERUDWH EXW>DOVR@KRZWKH\UHSUHVHQW VWRU\WHOOLQJ,W¶VQRWMXVWDJLUO ZDONLQJXSDQGGRZQDFDWZDON WKHVHDUHFKDUDFWHUVDQGWKHUHDUH WKLQJVWRHQJDJHEH\RQGMXVWWKH FORWKLQJ,W¶VDVKRZ´VD\V0DUVKDOO ,QVSLUHGE\6WDQOH\.XEULFN¶V7KH 6KLQLQJ$OH[DQGHU0F4XHHQ¶V DXWXPQZLQWHUVKRZUHVHPEOHG DIUR]HQWXQGUDZLWKDEOL]]DUGRI VQRZDQGLFHFRQWDLQHGZLWKLQD SOH[LJODVVFXEH,FHODQGLFVSRUWVZHDU LQFOXGHGSDGGHGSDUNDVSRQFKRV DQGFKXQN\NQLWVPL[HGZLWKPRUH QRVWDOJLFFXWDZD\IURFNFRDWVDQG ORQJEDOORRQLQJVNLUWV7KHGHOLFDWH FRORXUSDOHWWHRIGXVN\SLQNVJUH\V DQGJUHHQVDGGHGWRWKHURPDQWLF PRRG ³,¶YHSODFHGLWQH[WWRDTXRWH IURP7KH/LRQ7KH:LWFKDQG7KH :DUGUREHµ:K\LWLVVKHZKRKDV JRWDOO1DUQLDXQGHUKHUWKXPE,W¶V VKHZKRPDNHVLWDOZD\VZLQWHU $OZD\VZLQWHUDQGQHYHU&KULVWPDV WKLQNRIWKDW¶,W¶VH[SORULQJKRZ - 46 -

\RXFDQSURMHFWVWRULHVRQWRWKH GHVLJQHU¶VFDWZDONVKRZV´0DUVKDOO H[SODLQV 8NUDLQLDQUXQDZD\EULGHV PHDQZKLOHLQVSLUHG-RKQ*DOOLDQR¶V DXWXPQZLQWHUFROOHFWLRQ7KH PRGHOVZRUHIRONORULFIHOWDQGWZHHG GUHVVHVEODQNHWVNLUWVDQGVFXOSWHG MDFNHWVZLWKKXJHO\H[DJJHUDWHG VWLÌ&#x2020;KLSVDQGEROGHPEURLGHU\ 7KHPRRG\VRXQGWUDFNIWODVHU EHDPDQGIDNHVQRZIDOOWXUQHGD GDUNKDOOLQWRDZLQWHUZRQGHUODQG ZLWKDWXQQHORIFRORXUHGOLJKWIRU *DOOLDQR¶VLFHSULQFHVVHV ³1H[WWRWKHIRRWDJHLVDTXRWH IURP7KH6QRZ4XHHQµ$IHZ VQRZÃ&#x20AC;DNHVDUHIDOOLQJDQGRQHRI WKHVHWKHELJJHVWJUHZELJJHUDQG ELJJHUXQWLOLWEHFDPHWKH¿JXUHRID ZRPDQGUHVVHGRQWKH¿QHVWZKLWH JDX]HZKLFKDSSHDUHGWREHPDGHRI DPLOOLRQZKLWHVWDUU\Ã&#x20AC;DNHV¶>7KH LGHD@LVWRJLYHDQDGGHGHOHPHQW DOPRVWXVLQJWKHTXRWHVDVFDSWLRQV´ Fashioning Winter is on show until January 11, somersethouse.org.uk

Text: Lara Brunt

WUHQGEDFNLQZLWKZKLPVLFDO VSULQJVXPPHUFROOHFWLRQVIURPWKH OLNHVRI9DOHQWLQRDQG0DUF-DFREV DQGGDUNHULQWHUSUHWDWLRQVIURP *DUHWK3XJKDQG0LX0LX±QR GRXEWLQVSLUHGE\DVHULHVRIOLYH DFWLRQ¿OPVVXFKDV6QRZ:KLWH DQGWKH+XQWVPDQVWDUULQJ.ULVWHQ 6WHZDUWDQGWHOHYLVLRQVKRZVOLNH 2QFH8SRQD7LPHDWZLVWRQ6QRZ White. 7KHQRGWRZDUGVHVFDSLVP ORRNVVHWWRFRQWLQXHZLWKQH[W \HDU¶V&LQGHUHOODDOLYHDFWLRQ H[WUDYDJDQ]DGLUHFWHGE\.HQQHWK %UDQDJKDQGVWDUULQJ/LO\-DPHV /DG\5RVHRI'RZQWRQ$EEH\ IDPH DVWKHXOWLPDWHOLWWOHJLUO¶V IDQWDV\¿JXUHDQG&DWH%ODQFKHWWDV &LQGHUHOOD¶VHYLOVWHSPRWKHU³7KH EDGJX\LVDOZD\VWKHPRVWIXQWR GUHVV´&LQGHUHOODFRVWXPHGHVLJQHU 6DQG\3RZHOOWROG869RJXH³$QG WKHJRRGNLQGSHUVRQLVDOZD\VWKH PRVWFKDOOHQJLQJ´ 5DWKHUWKDQORRNLQJDWWKH LQVSLUDWLRQEHKLQGZLQWHU\FDWZDON VKRZVDQHZGLVSOD\DW/RQGRQ¶V 6RPHUVHW+RXVHOLQNVWKHIDQWDVWLFDO YLVXDOWKHDWUHZLWKQDUUDWLYHVIURP FODVVLFWDOHV&XUDWHGE\6KRQDJK 0DUVKDOOLWLVRQHRIQLQHGLVSOD\V WKDWPDNHXS)DVKLRQLQJ:LQWHUDQ H[KLELWLRQWKDWH[DPLQHVWUHQGVLQ FROGFOLPDWHVIURPWKHSDVWFHQWXU\ SUHVHQWHGDORQJVLGHWKHVSHFWDFXODU QHRFODVVLFDOEXLOGLQJ¶VDQQXDOLFH VNDWLQJULQN ³,WORRNVDWWKHOLQNEHWZHHQ QDUUDWLYHVZLWKLQ>DXWXPQZLQWHU@ FDWZDONVKRZVDQGWKHHYRFDWLYH ZRUGVRIDIDLU\VWRU\RUFODVVLFWDOH DQGKRZGHVLJQHUVEXLOGWKLVPLVH HQVFqQHZKLFKLVOLNHWKHWDEOHDX EXLOWZLWKLQDZLQWHUIDLU\VWRU\ RUFODVVLFWDOH´H[SODLQV0DUVKDOO &DWZDONIRRWDJHIURPWKUHHDXWXPQ ZLQWHUVKRZV±$OH[DQGHU0F4XHHQ -RKQ*DOOLDQRDQG 0DUF-DFREV±LVSRVLWLRQHG DORQJVLGHTXRWHVIURP7KH/LRQ7KH :LWFKDQG7KH:DUGUREHE\&6 /HZLV7KH6QRZ4XHHQE\+DQV &KULVWLDQ$QGHUVHQDQG)6FRWW )LW]JHUDOG¶V7KH,FH3DODFH ³,WH[SORUHVHDFKVKRZDQGWKH Ã&#x20AC;H[LQJRIPXVFOHVRIWKHVHGHVLJQHUV


- 47 -


febjhedW\hWk$Yec CWii_cei_ij[cW8[Z" Z[i_]d[ZXoFebjhedW<hWkH$:$

?dj[bb_][dY[_dekh^WdZi$ Jhk[X[Wkjo_iceh[j^Wdia_dZ[[f$J^_i_im^Wjm[j^_daWjFebjhedW<hWk"m^_Y^_im^o m[^Wl[WbmWoifbWY[Zekhjhkij_dj^[ia_bb\kb^WdZie\ekhYhW\jic[d"m^eb[WZ[l[ho i_d]b[ij[fe\j^[cWdk\WYjkh_d]fheY[iiWdZY^eei[j^[l[hoÓd[ijhWmcWj[h_Wbi$J^_i _iekhmWoe\e\\[h_d]oekj^[X[ij_jWb_WdgkWb_jo$

E;:b^gViZh>ciZg^dghAA8 9dlcidlc9jWV^I .,&)((.,&&& 8dgc^X]Z6Wj9]VW^I .,&'+(*.(.( lll#e[Zb^gViZh#VZ 6BjWVYVaV9ZkZadebZci8dbeVcnÄEdaigdcV;gVj<gdje?d^ciKZcijgZ


INTERIORS

&

Image: Louis Vuitton, Champs-Élysées

Bricks mortar R E F I N E D

- 49 -


Image: Eric Carlson

INTERIORS

They’re like children,” says Eric Carlson, the former director of architecture at Louis Vuitton, on the subject of his design projects. “It sounds a little cliché, I guess, but it’s very personal for us and we’re very much involved – from the building, the interior and the furniture.” If you’re into fashion then chances are you’ve walked LQWRRQHRI&DUOVRQ¶VVWRUHV/RXLV9XLWWRQ¶VÀDJVKLS on the Champs-Élysées in Paris, the neighbouring Céline in Avenue Montaigne, Tag Heuer in London or WKH/RQJFKDPSÀDJVKLSDORQJ1HZ<RUN¶V0DGLVRQ Avenue. And while Carlson’s brood stretches beyond said four stores, perhaps it is Louis Vuitton’s four-level 20,000-square-foot shopping space, which opened to much fanfare in 2004, which he is most revered for. “It was a learning experience for everybody – for me especially in terms of understanding how luxury works, and how the corporate French luxury world works, and I think very much so for the brand and the other brands that followed,” says Carlson, who co-founded the Louis Vuitton Architecture Department in 1997 before setting up his architecture studio, Carbondale, in Paris in 2004. “Architecture became a way to brag and give people an experience. Spaces were getting bigger, product lines were getting bigger and architecture, spatially (stairs, - 50 -

Image: Louis Vuitton, Champs-Élysées

He’s designed residential buildings and retail boutiques. He’s fitted out car show rooms and restaurants. He’s realised museums and plazas and worked on shopping malls and mega installations. For Eric Carlson, it seems anything is architecturally possible


Image: Longchamp, Hong Kong

double volumes and external façades), became manners to express the brand and tools for communication.â&#x20AC;? The decade that followed saw Carlson emerge as the pied piper of retail architecture, with luxury brands trailing the French maison and its starchitect. Carlsondesigned stores popped up in Dubai (Paspaley), Tokyo 7LĚ&#x2020;DQ\ *HUPDQ\ (VFDGD 6KDQJKDL +6WHUQ DQG Hong Kong (Longchamp), with pending projects as far away as Brazil. â&#x20AC;&#x153;There was a wave that added credibility to this retail world which had previously been â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hands RĚ&#x2020;WKDWÂśVGLUW\WKDWÂśVFRPPHUFLDOÂś´VD\V&DUOVRQÂł%XW now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a whole new realm that architects are hungry for. There was a lot of development and growth for me in that situation because we were building enormous DPRXQWVRISURMHFWVKLJKO\UHÂżQHGWR>DFOLHQWÂśV@ particular location.â&#x20AC;? And it is this â&#x20AC;&#x153;customizationâ&#x20AC;? that runs throughout Carlsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s projects, be it personalised art murals (Longchamp on New Bond Street) or reinterpretations of a Parisian home (Louis Vuittonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 3DULVĂ&#x20AC;DJVKLS  â&#x20AC;&#x153;We go through a very complex research phase â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and that phase is at least as long as the conceptual design SKDVHDURXQGÂżYHPRQWKVÂąZKHUHZHWDONWRHYHU\ERG\ LQYROYHGLQWKHSURMHFW:KHWKHULWÂśVDKRXVHRĚ&#x2021;FHRU store, we talk to everybody from the president to the VDOHVVWDĚ&#x2020;,WÂśVDERXWNQRZLQJHYHU\WKLQJDQGEHLQJ informed, which has two dimensions to it: one is to be knowledgeable about it so that a design is responding to these nuances and complexities; the second dimension is that people, when you go through a design process, they need to feel part of it as they take ownership of these projects.â&#x20AC;? The father-of-two is quick to point out that heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not limited to retail. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done almost everything,â&#x20AC;? he says of his previous projects. In Switzerland thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the &DUOVRQGHVLJQHG7$*+HXHUPXVHXPLQ6SDLQ the Plaza Ecija; in Tokyo the Celux club; and, returning to Paris for a moment, the glistening BMW showroom DORQJ$YHQXH*HRUJH9Âł,GRQÂśWUHDOO\GLVFULPLQDWH Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m more excited about the client who is interested in a project than I am typology.â&#x20AC;? When it comes to business, Carlson is not interested LQFRPSHWLQJIRUFRQWUDFWV Âł7KHVXSHUÂżFLDOQHVVRID competition will never really provide a really pertinent solution to this complex animalâ&#x20AC;?); he doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really take briefs (â&#x20AC;&#x153;People latch on to one thing and you have to not latch on to one thing but many things and somehow coalesce them into one singular powerful VROXWLRQZLWKPXOWLIDFHWV´ DQGKHORYHVGLĚ&#x2021;FXOW clients (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Because they have something to sayâ&#x20AC;?). Too, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quick to compliment the â&#x20AC;&#x153;grey matterâ&#x20AC;? holed up in the Carbondale HQ (â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have lots of respectful grey matter and brains to get ideas, generate thoughts, and to leave no stone unturnedâ&#x20AC;?); he believes wholly in the importance of the client (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m kind of like an architectural psychoanalyst of sorts without being presumptuous about anything other than trying to

get the right spatial solution for the clientâ&#x20AC;?); and heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nervous for architects who have delegated design and installation responsibilities to third parties (â&#x20AC;&#x153;By not taking on interiors and design, by abandoning these things, architects have been relegated to doing shellsâ&#x20AC;?). What are his thoughts on design trends? Does a trend dictate a project? â&#x20AC;&#x153;I hate design trends. People want to know whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next because they want to get in there early and make money. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s titillating. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t deal in trends, we create designs that people will follow; and our designs will become trends that people follow.â&#x20AC;? Does he have a signature style? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Please, if I have a style then put me to death because it means Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve basically started copying myself. The whole point is to do something original and not copy yourself or someone else. Why would you hire me if I was just going to copy someone else?â&#x20AC;? As we approach 2015, what next for this American in Paris? â&#x20AC;&#x153;I would like to do something in a more landscaped context. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done a lot of work that is urban and I would like to do something more in a resort VHWWLQJ$QGDLUSRUWVÂą,ZRXOGOLNHWRGRDÂżUVWFODVV lounge.â&#x20AC;? In the near future, however, it is the renovation of a luxury shopping centre in SĂŁo Paulo, JK Iguatemi, that has his full attention. â&#x20AC;&#x153;For the luxury shopping centre we created pockets of luxury within the public areas by designing islands domesticity in scale and ambiance,â&#x20AC;? says Carlson. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In Brazil there are no Avenue Montaignes so because of the weather and the crime everything happens internally. Shopping centres are an oasis in many ways â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you can socialise, eat and shop. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s essentially a neighbourhood. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lifestyle.â&#x20AC;? A lifestyle SĂŁo Paulo is sure to embrace.

- 51 -


TIMEPIECES

TARIQ MALIK As the UAE celebrates National Day, we take a look at examples of special-order watches created to celebrate different occasions, which have become a source of collectorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; interest

AUDEMARS PIGUET & SHEIKH MOHAMMED

ROLEX & THE SULTAN OF OMAN

PATEK PHILIPPE & IBN SAUD

This timepiece only came to the publicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attention in 2013 at Christieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inaugural Dubai auction. HH Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum has had a number of commemorative watches created with his signature, in particular during his time as Minister of Defence when a number of Rolex sports models, including the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 and the GMT reference 1675 were awarded WRRĚ&#x2021;FHUV7KH8$(JRYHUQPHQWKDV also given many such gifts. However, Rolex now rarely provides custom dials, therefore these have become highly sought after. The Audemars Piguet Sheikh Mohammed watch has less information on the circumstances around its creation, as it seems only a very limited number of pieces were ordered. However, it has been shown that the dial left the manufacturer as currently shown and was delivered through Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in the early 1980s.

His Majesty Sultan Qaboos is well known for his passion for watches, which has led to the creation of various dials across many brands. The most well-known among socalled â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; dials is Rolex. These watches were mainly given as gifts to visiting dignitaries or for honorary occasions and were predominantly sourced through Asprey of London. The most famous are the Khanjar (dagger) dials, while the rarest and most sought after are the Qaboos dials that carry the Sultanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature in red. In particular, a very limited number of Sea Dwellers (reference 1665) were presented to a group of SAS operatives for their assistance in quelling a rebel uprising in the 1970s. The 1665, famous for being the Double Red Sea Dweller, had the name and depth rating replaced with only a signature, providing a simplicity and elegance for which collectors are regularly willing to pay multiple times the value of a similar Rolex.

Specially ordered by the Saudi Arabia Patek retailer in 1953, the reference 600/1 was created in honor of King Abdul al-Aziz III Ibn Saud (1880- 1953), founder of modern Saudi Arabia. In 18-carat pink gold, the enamel dial with ruby indices is a testament to Patek Philippeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history of supplying watches worthy of royalty. Made in a series of 200 pocket watches and 150 wristwatches, each dial carries a carefully hand-painted portrait.

- 53 -

Tariq Malik is co-founder of 0RPHQWXPWKH8$(ÂśVÂżUVWDQG only vintage watch boutique. momentum-dubai.com


TIMEPIECES In the 19th century, Moritz Grossmann was a leading German watchmaker, until his untimely death. CEO Christine Hutter tells AIR about the revival of the once-forgotten marque

W Words: LARA BRUNT

PHOENIX

RISING

- 54 -

hen Christine Hutter, a watchmaking industry veteran of nearly 30 years, embarked on a mission to revive the venerable, yet long-forgotten GlashĂźtte brand Moritz Grossmann in 2008, even she could not imagine how far she would come in just a few short years. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I started really from the kitchen table. I had a lot of ideas and a business plan, but it was DYHU\GLĚ&#x2021;FXOWWLPHEHFDXVH,ZRUNHGDORQH IRUWKHÂżUVWHLJKWPRQWKV´+XWWHUUHFDOOV After recruiting chief caliber designer Jens Schneider, followed by a design team, and establishing a workshop GlashĂźtte, the village at the heart of German horology for more than \HDUVWKHÂżUPVWDUWHGWRGHYHORSLWVÂżUVW movement. ,QWKHPDUTXHXQYHLOHGLWVÂżUVW timepiece, the Benu, inspired by ancient Egyptian mythology. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everyone said we were like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so I looked and found the story of the Benu bird. The divine heron settled into its nest one HYHQLQJZKLFKZDVFRQVXPHGE\ÂżUH,WOHIW an egg and the next morning a new Benu bird KDWFKHG´VKHVD\V The Atum, the second generation Benu Power Reserve and third generation Benu Tourbillon soon followed. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour, who I admire very much, said to me, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The tourbillon is fantastic. Congratulationsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. During Basel he came twice with collectors to introduce them WRRXUZDWFKÂąFDQ\RXLPDJLQH"´VKHODXJKV Âł,WZDVDPD]LQJDQGDELJFRPSOLPHQW´ A trained watchmaker, the Bavarian-born CEO is a unique combination of creativity, technical know-how and business acumen. She is also one of the few women at the top


of the industry. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think I am more or less unique because no woman has ever created a manufactory from scratch, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true that WKHZDWFKEXVLQHVVLVGRPLQDWHGE\PHQ´VKH concedes. Yet, she feels women bring a fresh perspective to watchmaking. â&#x20AC;&#x153;An end customer told me, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I love your watches and you can see WKHUHLVDZRPDQÂśVWRXFKÂś´ After completing her apprenticeship in Munich, Hutter began her career in the service workshop of Wempe, Germanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest luxury watch retailer, before later switching to sales. In 1996, she moved to GlashĂźtte and spent

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I started really from the kitchen tableâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the next eight years working in marketing and distribution for A. Lange & SĂśhne and GlashĂźtte Original, travelling regularly to the Middle East. â&#x20AC;&#x153;For me, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s little bit like coming home. You see another side of hospitality and FRQÂżGHQFHLQWKH0LGGOH(DVW,I\RXKDYHD IULHQG\RXKDYHDIULHQGIRUOLIH´VKHVD\V Hutter also began to nurture a long-held desire. â&#x20AC;&#x153;As a watchmaker, you have a dream in mind: to create your own watch and I carried WKLVGUHDPZLWKPHRYHUWKH\HDUV´VKHVD\V â&#x20AC;&#x153;During my time in GlashĂźtte, I learned a lot about German watchmaking and discovered that nobody had secured the brand rights to WKHQDPH0RULW]*URVVPDQQ´ Grossmann was a GlashĂźtte watchmaker who established his workshop in 1854 DQGFUDIWHGÂżQHSRFNHWZDWFKHVSUHFLVLRQ pendulum clocks and chronometers, until his untimely death in 1885 brought an end to his manufactory. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Alongside Adolph Lange, Grossmann was the most important watchmaker in GlashĂźtte. He founded the German Watchmaking School in 1878 and wrote essays and books about German ZDWFKPDNLQJ´+XWWHUH[SODLQV With the help of her family, Hutter secured the rights to the brand but temporarily put her plans on hold when she moved to Switzerland in 2004 as managing director of Haute Horlogerie Schindler SA. Four years later, ZLWKWKHVXSSRUWRISULYDWHZDWFKDÂżFLRQDGRV she re-established the Grossmann brand. Âł,I\RXORRNDWWKHPRYHPHQWV\RXZLOOÂżQGD QXPEHURIWUDGLWLRQDOIHDWXUHVWKDWUHĂ&#x20AC;HFWWKH heritage of Grossmann, but we do not want to copy the old pocket watches â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we would like to innovate and move them into the 21st century LQZULVWZDWFKHV´VKHVD\V The time-only Benu features a delicate rose-

gold bezel, solid-silver GLDODQGÂżQHWLSSHG brown-violet hands and houses the 100.0 caliber. The curved, milled cutout of the German silver 2/3 plate, a typical Grossmann hallmark, puts the spotlight on the large screw balance and its breathing hairspring. When it came to pairing the Grossmann balance with a tourbillon, key movement functions were reconceived to accommodate the aspirations of the watchmakers with respect to precision, HĚ&#x2021;FLHQF\DQGDHVWKHWLFV7KHWRXUELOORQ cage is freely suspended from a cantilevered, hand-engraved cock made of German silver. It has an unusually large diameter of 16mm and the upper part of the cage is a V-shaped balance bridge that requires only two posts, a VLJQLÂżFDQWKDOOPDUNIRUZKLFKDGHVLJQSDWHQW has been registered. To reliably immobilise the balance in order to accurately set the time, the stop device must bypass the cage frame posts. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We decided to use a brush of human hair because it stops the EDODQFHLQDVPRRWKZD\´VD\V+XWWHU7KLV stop-seconds mechanism is another patentpending innovation. :LWKDWHDPRIWKHÂżUPLVZRUNLQJRQ the next movement, to be unveiled at Basel DORQJZLWKLWVÂżUVWZRPHQÂśVWLPHSLHFH And, despite her technical knowledge and experience in retail, marketing and distribution, every day brings new challenges. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The next big challenge for us is to increase our brand awareness and tell the story of 0RULW]*URVVPDQQ´Available at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, seddiqi.com - 55 -


TIMEPIECES

One careful ownerâ&#x20AC;Ś Vintage watch auctions are among the best ways to buy ultra-rare timepieces. Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Watches of Knightsbridge offer guidance on what to look out for when in the market for a classic design It really depends on the vintage,â&#x20AC;? says Toby Sutton, specialist auctioneer at Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Watches of Knightsbridge. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The watch brands made a far fewer number of watches from the 1920s up until the 1970s so when someone buys a vintage piece they will stand out from the crowd and will know in some cases that they will not see another person wearing the same watch.â&#x20AC;? Sutton is telling AIR what makes a vintage watch particularly collectable. As part of one of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exclusive auction KRXVHVVSHFLDOLVLQJLQÂżQHDQGFROOHFWDEOH WLPHSLHFHVKHLVZHOOSODFHGWRRĚ&#x2020;HUWLSV â&#x20AC;&#x153;Recently collectors are looking at how a watch has aged â&#x20AC;&#x201C; if the dial and bezel have faded to a nice colour or patina then this is unique and can increase the price dramatically â&#x20AC;&#x201C; often referred to as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;tropicalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; or â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;chocolateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; dials,â&#x20AC;? he explains. â&#x20AC;&#x153;An interesting history is very desirable too, hence why many military pieces are very collectable. These pieces are also all uniquely issued so one is never the same as another. Also I see collecting watches like collecting cards in a school playground â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just the ultimate hobby for many people.â&#x20AC;? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a hobby that is burgeoning in popularity. Watches of Knightsbridge, established by Toby and his father Simon four years ago, held their most recent auction last month, and sold over ÂŁ500,000 in timepieces, including a rare blue dial Omega Speedmaster from 1965, which is so rare that nobody even knows why it was made. Also up for sale was a stunning Vacheron Constantin chronograph from the 1950s which sold for a mere ÂŁ17,024 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a remarkably low price, according to Sutton, which proves that not only are watch auctions good places to pick up rare watches, they can be found cheaply, too. When asked for tips on what to look out for when buying vintage watches, Sutton explains the complications, saying: â&#x20AC;&#x153;It really depends on what type of vintage watch from which SHULRG,JHWDVNHGWKLVDORWDQGLWGLĚ&#x2020;HUVIURPZDWFK to watch. Generally it comes down to how original the watch is. The ultimate for any collector is if the watch is - 56 -


all-original, unpolished with the original box and paperwork. Unfortunately only maybe two per cent of vintage watches come like this. An original dial can sometimes hold up to 80 per cent of the total ZDWFKÂśVYDOXHEXWLQVRPHFDVHVDUHÂżQLVKHG dial can increase the value. It sounds like a PLQHÂżHOGEXWLI\RXEX\IURPDZHOOUHVSHFWHG dealer or auction house then they can guide you on what is important to each model or brand.â&#x20AC;? For newcomers to the world of watch auctions, the process can seem daunting. But it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be, says Sutton: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Be prepared, do your homework, try and view the watches or request additional images, and try to speak to one of the experts about the

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I see collecting watches like collecting cards in a school playgroundâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; watches of interest to get their honest opinion,â&#x20AC;? he advises. And if something really special comes up, do anything to get it. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Rolex Daytona [left] is the most expensive watch weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve sold â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it went for ÂŁ76,600,â&#x20AC;? Sutton recalls. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This reference was worn by Paul Newman and it was only made for a short period between 1969 and 1972. The original owner who sold it was just a little surprised at the outcome as he was unaware of the popularity of this model.â&#x20AC;? Finally, the auctioneer tells AIR which timepiece heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d kill to have pass under the hammer at Watches of Knightsbridge. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It ZRXOGEHJUHDWWRDXFWLRQRĚ&#x2020;WKHRULJLQDO5ROH[ Submariner watch worn by Sean Connery in WKH-DPHV%RQGÂżOP'U1R´>&KULVWLHÂśVVROG D7LĚ&#x2020;DQ\VLJQHGYHUVLRQRIWKLVPRGHOIRU 86LQ@$VIRUZKDWKHÂśGOLNHWRRZQ himself? â&#x20AC;&#x153;There is not one watch which I would like to own, the list is endless,â&#x20AC;? Sutton laughs, â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is the same great problem for all watch collectors.â&#x20AC;? For more information on upcoming auctions at Watches of Knightsbridge, visit watchesofknightsbridge.com - 57 -


JEWELLERY

I

QWKHUDUH¿HGZRUOGRI¿QHMHZHOOHU\ Stephen Webster is something of a surprise. 5DÌ&#x2021;VKDQGWDWWRRHGZLWKDVZDJJHUQRWWRR GLVVLPLODUWRKLVVXSHUVWDUFOLHQWV±KH¶VPDGH ZHGGLQJULQJVIRU0DGRQQDDQG3LQNDQG GHVLJQHGRQHRIDNLQGSLHFHVIRUWKHOLNHVRI %H\RQFpDQG-HQQLIHU/RSH]±KHUHVHPEOHVD\RXQJHU .HLWK5LFKDUGV+HULGHVD+DUOH\'DYLGVRQSDUWLHV ZLWK%U\DQ)HUU\DQGUHDGVWKFHQWXU\SRHWU\ 7KDW¶VQRWWRVD\KHFDQ¶WPL[LWZLWKWKH HVWDEOLVKPHQW,Q:HEVWHUZDVQDPHGFUHDWLYH GLUHFWRURIWKHZRUOG¶VROGHVWMHZHOOHU\KRXVH*DUUDUG DSRVLWLRQKHKHOGIRU¿YH\HDUV+HKDVEHHQFURZQHG %ULWLVK/X[XU\-HZHOOHURIWKH<HDUWKUHHWLPHVDQGZDV DZDUGHGDQ0%(ODVW\HDUIRUKLVVHUYLFHVWRWKH%ULWLVK MHZHOOHU\LQGXVWU\%XWKHVD\VLQKLV&RFNQH\OLNH DFFHQW³$VPXFKDV,FDQEHWUDGLWLRQDOLW¶VQRWUHDOO\ ZKDW,ZDQWWREH,ZDQWWRXVHDOORIWKDWLQVRPHZD\ DQGWKHQQRWEHWUDGLWLRQDO´ $QH[SHUWFUDIWVPDQ:HEVWHULVNQRZQIRUKLV EROGGHVLJQVDQGXVHRIVHPLSUHFLRXVJHPVVXFKDV WDQ]DQLWHVWRXUPDOLQHVDQGSHULGRWV³,W¶VYHU\GLÌ&#x2021;FXOW WRFDOODVWRQHVHPLSUHFLRXVZKHQLWFRVWVÂ&#x2026; ZKLFKVRPHRIWKRVHVWRQHVFDQHDVLO\GR´KHVD\V ³7KH\IHHOOHVVIRUPDOEHFDXVHWKHFRORXUVDUHWRQDODQG DELWGLÌ&#x2020;HUHQWWRKDYLQJVRPHRQHJRµUXE\VDSSKLUH HPHUDOGV¶ ³6RPHWLPHV\RXFDQXVHJHPVLQDZD\WKDWLW¶VQRW VRPXFKDERXWWKHVXSHUKLJKYDOXHLQRQHSDUWLFXODU JHPRUDQHFNODFHWKDWEHFRPHVDÂ&#x2026;PLOOLRQQHFNODFH 7KDWGRHVQ¶WLQWHUHVWPHDWDOO±DOWKRXJKLWZRXOGEH

Top of the rocks QLFHLI,VROGDIHZ´KHODXJKV³0\QHZHVWFROOHFWLRQ 0DJQLSKHDVDQWKDVDORWRIUHGJDUQHWVLQLWDVWRQH WKDW,¿UVWZRUNHGZLWKLQV3HRSOHVWLOODVNµZKDW LVLW"¶DQG,TXLWHOLNHWKDW,W¶VPRUHDERXWFUHDWLQJWKH ORRNWKDWVXLWVP\VW\OHDQGXVLQJJHPVWKDWSHRSOHDUH LQWHUHVWHGLQHQRXJKWRDVNWKHTXHVWLRQ´ :HEVWHU¶VRZQLQWHUHVWLQMHZHOOHU\EHJDQDJHG ZKHQKHHQUROOHGLQDUWVFKRROLQ5RFKHVWHU.HQW³7KH UHDVRQ,HQGHGXSWKLQNLQJ,FRXOGEHDWDUWVFKRROZDV E\ZDWFKLQJ'DYLG%RZLHDQGNQRZLQJWKDWKH¶GEHHQWR DUWVFKRRO´KHVD\V³,ZDVQ¶WDPXVLFLDQEXW,WKRXJKW µORRNDWWKDWJX\KHGRHVQ¶WORRNOLNHDQDFFRXQWDQWRU VRPHRQHZKRZRUNVLQWKHGRFN\DUGV¶ZKLFKLVZKHUH SHRSOHZKHUH,FDPHIURPHQGHGXSLI\RXZHUHQ¶WD EUDLQER[´

Stephen Websterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bold and colourful designs are beloved of rock stars and royalty. Lara Brunt sits down with fine jewelleryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most unconventional star

$IWHULQLWLDOO\HQUROOLQJLQIDVKLRQ:HEVWHUVWXPEOHG DFURVVWKHMHZHOOHU\DQGVLOYHUVPLWKFRXUVHZKLFKZDV PRUHKLVVW\OH³,¶GQHYHUFRQVLGHUHGMHZHOOHU\EXW, WKRXJKWLWORRNHGOLNHVRPHWKLQJ,FRXOGJHWP\KDQGV DURXQG,WZDVYHU\PXFKDWHFKQLFDOFRXUVH±PDNLQJ MHZHOOHU\UDWKHUWKDQMXVWGUDZLQJLW±ZKLFKIRUPHZDV DUHDOO\JUHDWZD\WRVWDUW´KHVD\V

- 58 -


$IWHUFRPSOHWLQJKLV DSSUHQWLFHVKLSLQ+DWWRQ *DUGHQ:HEVWHUZRUNHGDVD FUDIWVPDQIRUVHYHUDO/RQGRQ GHVLJQKRXVHVDQGWKHQ EUDQFKHGRXWRQKLVRZQ³7KDW FRLQFLGHGZLWKJROGEHLQJWKH KLJKHVWLWKDGHYHUEHHQ ZKLFKFDXVHVHYHU\WKLQJWR VKXWGRZQIRUDELWVRLWZDV YHU\GLÌ&#x2021;FXOW7KHQDJX\FDPH DQGRÌ&#x2020;HUHGPHWKLVMRELQ&DQDGD´ KHVD\V7KHJX\ZDVD&DQDGLDQJHP DGYHQWXUHUZKRWUDYHOOHGWKHZRUOGLQ VHDUFKRIVWRQHVZLWKQDPHV:HEVWHUKDG QHYHUKHDUGRI ³+HMXVWJDYHPHWKHVHLQFUHGLEOHURFNVDQG,KDG WRGRLWDOO±GHVLJQLWPDNHLW7KH\ZHUHELJDQG FRORXUIXOVRP\VW\OHEHFDPHELJDQGFRORXUIXO´KH VD\V:HEVWHU¶VQH[WVWRSZDV&DOLIRUQLDZKHUHKLV

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;He just gave me these incredible rocks... they were big and colourful, so my style became big and colourfulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

GHVLJQVZHUHDKLW³,Q&DOLIRUQLDLWVHHPHGWKHUHZDV DFXVWRPHUIRUGHFRQVWUXFWHGOHVVIRUPDO¿QHMHZHOOHU\ ±PRUHOLNHD%XOJDULWKDQD&DUWLHU,WZDVQ¶WDOODERXW GLDPRQGVDQGSDYp±LWIHOWDELWPRUHFDVXDO´ +RZHYHUDIWHUPRYLQJEDFNWR/RQGRQLQWKHODWH µVLWVHHPHG(QJODQGZDVQ¶WTXLWHUHDG\IRU:HEVWHU ³-HZHOOHU\GHVLJQHUVZHUHDQRQ\PRXVDQG9RJXH ZRXOGQµWZULWHDERXW¿QHMHZHOOHU\EHFDXVHLWZDVQ¶W IDVKLRQ´KHVD\V³6R,VSHQWWKHQH[WVHYHQ\HDUVÃ&#x20AC;\LQJ WR&DOLIRUQLDVHOOLQJZKDW,¶GPDGHDQGWKHQJRLQJEDFN WR(QJODQGPDNLQJDQRWKHUORW´ +LVIDVKLRQDEOH¿QHMHZHOOHU\FDXJKWWKHH\HRI $PHULFDQ9RJXHDQGDFHUWDLQVXSHUVWDUFDOOHG 0DGRQQDZKRZDVVQDSSHGZHDULQJKLV&U\VWDO+D]H FRFNWDLOULQJ:HEVWHUGHYHORSHGKLVVLJQDWXUHWHFKQLTXH E\IXVLQJDIDFHWHGFU\VWDORYHUDSUHFLRXVJHPVWRQH SURGXFLQJDFRORXUWKDWLVLOOXPLQDWHGWRFUHDWHD KRORJUDSKLFHÌ&#x2020;HFW 7RGD\:HEVWHUKDVÃ&#x20AC;DJVKLSVWRUHVRQ0RXQW6WUHHWLQ /RQGRQDQG5RGHR'ULYHLQ%HYHUO\+LOOVDQGDURXQG SRLQWVRIVDOHZRUOGZLGHLQFOXGLQJ'XEDLDQG

.XZDLW:KHQLWFRPHV WRPDUNHWVOLNHWKH 0LGGOH(DVW ³,WKLQNWKH \RXQJHUFURZG LVGUDZQWRZKDW, GR´KHVD\V :HEVWHUKDVDOVREHHQ DQDGYRFDWHRIHWKLFDOO\ PLQHGPDWHULDOVWUDYHOOLQJ WR7DQ]DQLDDQG3HUXWRPHHW PLQLQJFRPPXQLWLHVDQGLVDQ DPEDVVDGRUIRU)DLUWUDGHDQG )DLUPLQHG*ROG+HSRLQWVRXWDFU\VWDOKD]HSHQGDQW IURPWKH/DG\6WDUGXVWFROOHFWLRQLQVSLUHGE\%RZLH¶V OHJHQGDU\DOWHUHJR=LJJ\6WDUGXVWIHDWXULQJ3HUXYLDQ SLQNRSDOTXDUW]DQGGLDPRQGVVHWLQURVHJROG ³3HUXYLDQSLQNRSDOLVDVRIWWRQHVRLW¶VQRWVRPHWKLQJ \RXORRNDWDQGJRµZRZ´KHHQWKXVHV³,QVWHDG\RX¶UH GUDZQLQWRLW«LW¶VGH¿QLWHO\QRWDQREYLRXVJHP´$ELW OLNHWKHPDQKLPVHOIAvailable at levant.com

- 59 -


- 60 -


O R D I N A R Y

G I R L ·

·

·

She may be the face of Chanel and worth £30 million but Keira Knightley still strives to appear as normal as her less well-off friends Words: LIZ HOGGARD

K

eira Knightley is sitting in a darkened hotel URRP$W¿UVW, hardly see her. Dressed in an asymmetric dark pink frock that VKRZVRÌ&#x2020;WDZQ\OLPEV.QLJKWOH\ LVULGLFXORXVO\EHDXWLIXO²DOO FKHHNERQHVDQGLQWHUHVWLQJVKDGRZV %XWVKHVZHDUV¿GJHWV²,VHQVHDQ LQQHUWRPER\ 7KH¿UVWWKLQJVKHGRHVLV apologise for nearly choking on a

ELVFXLW³/LNHDFDWZLWKDKDLUEDOO´ VKHJULPDFHV,¶PH[SHFWLQJKHUWR EHPRUHJXDUGHG6LQFHVKHEXUVW RQWRRXUVFUHHQVDWWKHDJHRILQ %HQGLW/LNH%HFNKDP ZKLFKVKH VKRWDIWHUWDNLQJKHU*&6(V VKH¶V EHHQDFFXVHGRIEHLQJWRRULFKWRR SRVKWRRWKLQ VKHVXHGDWDEORLGLQ IRUFODLPLQJVKHKDGEHFRPH DUROHPRGHOIRUDQRUH[LDVXÌ&#x2020;HUHUV  7KHSDSDUD]]LXVHGWRVWDQGRXWVLGH KHUKRPHDQGVKRXWREVFHQLWLHVWR JHWDUHDFWLRQEXWWKHGD\VRIEHLQJ VWDONHGDUHRYHU³,¶PYHU\OXFN\,W - 61 -

ZDVTXLWHIXOORQIRUDZKLOHEXWDW WKLVDJHDQGZLWKWKHVRUWRIZRUN, ZHQWLQWRLW¶VQRZHDV\WRKDYHP\ RZQOLIH$QGLW¶VQLFHEHLQJEDFNRQ WKH7XEH´VKHGHDGSDQV .QLJKWOH\JDLQHGDUHSXWDWLRQIRU EHLQJSULFNO\IDPRXVO\WHUPLQDWLQJ DQLQWHUYLHZZKHQWKHMRXUQDOLVW VWDUWHGTXL]]LQJKHUDERXWFRRNLQJ ZLWKKHUER\IULHQG(DUOLHUWKLV\HDU VKHDGPLWWHGWKDW³XSWR,ZDV SUHWW\QHXURWLF´6XUURXQGHGE\ DGXOWVRQVHWVKHZDVWU\LQJIDUWRR KDUGWREHJURZQXS


6KHDQG5LJKWRQKDYHPRYHG IURPKLSVWHUHDVW/RQGRQWRQRUWK /RQGRQ7KH\FRRNUHDGWUDYHO LQFRJQLWR³,¶PDELJIDQRIZDONLQJ ,WKLQNWKDW¶VZKDWPDNHV/RQGRQ DJUHDWFLW\,WIHHOVYHU\KHDOWK\, WKLQNWKDW¶VWKHQXPEHURQHUHDVRQ ,FDQ¶WTXLWHKDQGOH/$´7KHFRXSOH PHWDWDGLQQHUSDUW\WKURXJK a friend and share lots of geeky LQWHUHVWV 5LJKWRQ¶VGHJUHHZDVLQ KLVWRU\DQGSROLWLFV³VRKH¶VDELJ KLVWRU\EXÌ&#x2020;´ EXWQRWLWVHHPV PXVLF ,W¶VDFOLFKpWKDWVRPDQ\DFWUHVVHV IDOOIRU%ULWLVKURFNVWDUV WKLQN *Z\QHWK3DOWURZDQG&KULV0DUWLQ &DUH\0XOOLJDQDQG0DUFXV 0XPIRUG EXWDFWXDOO\.QLJKWOH\ IUHHO\DGPLWVWKDWVKHLVQ¶WWKDW LQWHUHVWHGLQPXVLF ³7KHYLVXDOVLGHDQGERRNVDUH KXJHIRUPHEXWPXVLFLVQ¶W´ VKHFRQIHVVHV³,¶PPDUULHGWRD PXVLFLDQDQGWKHUHIRUHKDYHORWV RIIULHQGVQRZZKRDUHPXVLFLDQV ,ORYHKRZSDVVLRQDWHKLVZKROH JURXSDUHDERXWLW²REYLRXVO\LW¶V DWRWDOYRFDWLRQDQGSDUWLFXODUO\ QRZIRUVRPDQ\RIWKHPLW¶VVR

WRPXVLFDQGWKDWGLGQ¶WZRUNDWDOO EXW,PDQDJHGLWLQVLOHQFH%HFDXVH VRPHWKLQJDERXWKHDULQJ\RXURZQ EUHDWKDQGEHLQJYHU\DZDUHRI ZKDW¶VDURXQG\RX,IRXQGPXFK EHWWHUWKDQKDYLQJSRXQGLQJPXVLF WRNHHS\RXJRLQJ´ Knightley is worth an estimated £30 million. As the face of Chanel VKHJHWVVRPHUDWKHUJRRGIUHHELHV EXWVKHSD\VKHUVHOIDVPDOOVDODU\ UXPRXUHGWREHÂ&#x2026;D\HDU  EHFDXVHVKHZDQWVWRVWD\RQD similar footing to her friends. ³,WKLQNLWZRXOGEHDZIXOLI\RX VXGGHQO\RQO\KXQJDURXQGZLWK SHRSOHZKRZHUHLQ\RXUSD\EUDFNHW RU\RXUFODVVRUSURIHVVLRQ´VKHWHOOV PH³/LIHLVRQO\LQWHUHVWLQJEHFDXVH RIWKHGLÌ&#x2020;HUHQWSHRSOH\RXKDYHLQLW $QGWKHLGHD\RXRQO\YDOXHSHRSOH ZKRHDUQDFHUWDLQDPRXQWDQG WKHUHIRUHKDYHDFHUWDLQVXFFHVVWKDW LVWRWDOO\ULGLFXORXV,¶YHPHWVRPH right s***s who earn a lot of money ZKR,GH¿QLWHO\ZRXOGQ¶WZDQWWR KDYHGLQQHUZLWK´ ,Q6HSWHPEHUVKHSRVHGWRSOHVV for Patrick Demarchelier in ,QWHUYLHZPDJD]LQHVWULNLQJD

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I think womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bodies are a battleground and photography is partly to blameâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 7RGD\KRZHYHUVKHFRXOGDOPRVW EHWKHJXHVW\RXVLWQH[WWRDWD dinner party as she veers from FKDWWLQJDERXWWKHSOHDVXUHVRI XUEDQZDONLQJWR+LOODU\&OLQWRQ¶V HOHFWLRQSURVSHFWV6KHZDQWVWR NQRZZKLFKVDORQ,ZHQWWRWRJHW WKHIHDWKHUVZRYHQLQWRP\KDLU, DSRORJLVHIRUORRNLQJOLNHDPLGGOH DJHGIHVWLYDOJRHU³1RLW¶VIDEXORXV WRWDOO\JRIRULW´VKHVD\V ,W¶VDQLOOXVLRQRIFRXUVH7KLVLV work for Knightley. Yet she seems VRUHOD[HG3DUWO\RQHVXVSHFWV this is down to her recent marriage VKHPDUULHG.OD[RQVNH\ERDUGLVW -DPHV5LJKWRQLQDVPDOOFHUHPRQ\ LQWKHVRXWKRI)UDQFHODVW\HDU DQG SDUWO\WRWKHVRUWRIUROHVVKH¶VQRZ WDNLQJ²LQGLH¿OPVUDWKHUWKDQ EORFNEXVWHUVVXFKDV3LUDWHVRIWKH &DULEEHDQ

KDUGWRPDNHDQ\PRQH\RXWRILW %XWLW¶VMXVWQRWP\WKLQJ,FDQ¶W TXLWHJRWKHUH7KHUH¶VVRPHVWXÌ&#x2020; ,UHDOO\OLNH´VKHEULJKWHQV³EXW, ZRXOGQ¶WJRµ,KDYHWROLVWHQWRLW all the time and immerse myself LQLW¶´,PHQWLRQIULHQGVRIPLQH ZKRDUHREVHVVHGZLWKJXLWDUV+HU UHVSRQVHLVKHDUWIHOW³7KHDPRXQW RIFRQYHUVDWLRQV,¶YHOLVWHQHGWR DERXWGLÌ&#x2020;HUHQWV\QWKHVL]HUVIURP WKHV$QGWKHGLÌ&#x2020;HUHQWSODFHV ZKHUH\RXEX\WKHV\QWKHVL]HUVIURP WKHV´,IDQ\WKLQJVKHVD\V VKHORYHVVLOHQFH³'R\RXNQRZZKDW ,GLGRYHUWKHVXPPHU",WGLGQ¶W ODVWORQJ´VKHODXJKV³,GHFLGHG WKDW,ZDVJRLQJWRWHDFKP\VHOIWR MRJEHFDXVHORWVRISHRSOHVD\KRZ MRJJLQJLVOLNHPHGLWDWLRQ$QG, DFWXDOO\GLGPDQDJHLWIRUDFRXSOHRI ZHHNV,QWKHSDVW,¶GEHHQOLVWHQLQJ - 62 -

EORZIRUÃ&#x20AC;DWFKHVWHGZRPHQ³,¶YH KDGP\ERG\PDQLSXODWHGVRPDQ\ GLÌ&#x2020;HUHQWWLPHVIRUVRPDQ\GLÌ&#x2020;HUHQW UHDVRQVZKHWKHULW¶VSDSDUD]]L SKRWRJUDSKHUVRUIRU¿OPSRVWHUV And that [shoot] was one of the ones ZKHUH,VDLGµ2.,¶P¿QHGRLQJLW VRORQJDV\RXGRQ¶WPDNHWKHPDQ\ ELJJHURUUHWRXFK¶%HFDXVHLWGRHV IHHOLPSRUWDQWWRVD\LWUHDOO\GRHVQ¶W PDWWHUZKDWVKDSH\RXDUH ³,WKLQNZRPHQ¶VERGLHVDUHD EDWWOHJURXQGDQGSKRWRJUDSK\ LVSDUWO\WREODPH´VKHVD\V³,W¶V PXFKHDVLHUWRWDNHDSLFWXUHRI VRPHERG\ZLWKRXWDVKDSHLWVLPSO\ LV:KHUHDVDFWXDOO\\RXQHHG WUHPHQGRXVVNLOOWREHDEOHWRJHW DZRPDQ¶VVKDSHDQGPDNHLWORRN OLNHLWGRHVLQOLIHZKLFKLVDOZD\V EHDXWLIXO%XWRXUVRFLHW\LVVR SKRWRJUDSKLFQRZLWEHFRPHVPRUH


- 63 -


- 64 -


³FDUURW´RIGUDPDFODVVHVWRKHOS KHUQDYLJDWHG\VOH[LD6KHVWLOO VWUXJJOHVWROHDUQVFULSWVZKLFK PXVWKDYHPDGHKHUUROHDV$ODQ 7XULQJ¶V¿DQFpH-RDQ&ODUNHLQQHZ ¿OP7KH,PLWDWLRQ*DPHTXLWHD VWUHWFK&ODUNHLVDQXQDSRORJHWLF EOXHVWRFNLQJ.QLJKWOH\WUDQVIRUPV herself in droopy cardigans and has IXQZLWKWKHHUD¶VSOXPP\YRZHO VRXQGV$IWHUZDWFKLQJDUFKLYH footage she fell in love with her FKDUDFWHU³,WZDVLQWHUHVWLQJWRKDYH VRPHRQHZKRLV¿JKWLQJDJDLQVWD ZDOORISUHMXGLFHEXWZKRGRHVQ¶WGR LWLQDEXOOLQDFKLQDVKRSZD\ ³,I\RXWKLQNDERXWKHURSWLRQV

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Her most interesting performance yet is in the new US comedy Say Whenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

GLÌ&#x2021;FXOWWRVHHDOORIWKRVHGLÌ&#x2020;HUHQW varieties of shape. ³:KLFKLVZK\,¶PVRJODG IHPLQLVPLVEDFNRQWKHWDEOH´VKH VD\V³,UHPHPEHULQVRPHRQH VFRÌ&#x2021;QJDWPHEHFDXVH,VDLG,ZDV DIHPLQLVW²DIHPDOHMRXUQDOLVW VFRÌ&#x2020;HGDWPHIRUHYHQEULQJLQJWKDW XSDVDWKLQJ,NQRZLW¶VGLÌ&#x2021;FXOWWR WDNHWKDWIURPDFWUHVVHVEHFDXVH WKH\DUHRIWHQVH[XDOLVHGEXW, WKLQNLWVKRXOGEHDQLVVXHRQWRSRI HYHU\RQH¶VDJHQGD ³,¶YHJRWDFRXSOHRIPDWHVZKRDUH JX\VZKRKDYHWDNHQWKHGHFLVLRQWR ORRNDIWHUWKHLUNLGVDQGWKHUXEELVK WKH\IDFHEHFDXVHWKH\¶YHWDNHQWKDW GHFLVLRQLVDEVROXWHO\VKRFNLQJ7KH DPRXQWRISUHMXGLFHWKHDPRXQWRI WDNLQJWKHEDE\WRWKHEDE\JURXS DQGZRPHQWXUQLQJURXQGDQG VD\LQJµ2KLVLW\RXUZLIH¶VGD\ RÌ&#x2020;"¶´:HWDONDERXWDJHLVP³,W¶V really desperate the kind of image ZHKDYHRIZRPHQDQGZKHQ\RX KHDUVRPHRQHVD\µ6KH¶VOHWKHUVHOI JR¶ZKDWHYHUWKDWPHDQV:KDW² EHFDXVHVKH¶VJRWJUH\KDLU"´ $VDFKLOG.QLJKWOH\ZDVIDPRXVO\ SUHFRFLRXVDQGEHJJHGIRUDQDJHQW DWVL[,QIDFWKHUSDUHQWVXVHGWKH

VKHZRXOGSUHWW\PXFKKDYHEHHQ chained to a kitchen sink. Whereas with Alan it was a meeting of minds and a friendship and great loyalty. 7KH\FDUHGIRUHDFKRWKHUYHU\PXFK $QG,FDQXQGHUVWDQGFKRRVLQJWKDW RYHUWKHRWKHU´VKHVD\V³&KRRVLQJ DOLIHZKHUH\RXJHWWRGRZKDW\RX¶UH WRWDOO\SDVVLRQDWHDERXW´ .QLJKWOH\KDVEHHQGHOLEHUDWHO\ FKRRVLQJOHIW¿HOGUROHV,Q $WRQHPHQWDQG7KH'XFKHVVZHVDZ Ã&#x20AC;DVKHVRIJHQXLQHYXOQHUDELOLW\6KH ZDVEULOOLDQWO\QDVW\LQ1HYHU/HW0H Go. Yet it was those fearless scenes when she played a psychoanalytic SDWLHQWLQ'DYLG&URQHQEHUJ¶V$ 'DQJHURXV0HWKRGWKDWPDGHFULWLFV take notice. ,QGLH¿OPVVXLWKHU7KHUH¶V OHVVSUHVVXUHWRSOD\WKHSRXWLQJ LQJpQXH+HUPRVWLQWHUHVWLQJ SHUIRUPDQFH\HWLVLQWKHQHZ86 FRPHG\6D\:KHQZKHUHVKHSOD\V DQRYHUHGXFDWHGVODFNHUGULIWLQJ WRZDUGVPDUULDJHXQWLOVKHPHHWVD IHLVW\WHHQDJHU SOD\HGE\.LFN$VV¶V &KORs*UDFH0RUHW] .QLJKWOH\ ZDVGUDZQWRD¿OPWKDWLVDERXW WKHSUREOHPVRIWKHZRPHQRI *HQHUDWLRQ<³<RXRIWHQVHHVWRULHV DERXWPHQZKRFDQ¶WJHWWKHPVHOYHV - 65 -

WRJHWKHUEXWLW¶VLQWHUHVWLQJWKHUH KDYHQ¶WEHHQPRUH¿OPVZLWKIHPDOH OHDGVZKRDUHJRLQJWKURXJKWKDW JUDQGÃ&#x20AC;RDW´ 5HFHQWO\VKHZDVDVNHGLIVKH HTXDWHGPDUULDJHZLWKDGXOWKRRG DQGVKHWHDVHG³,IDQ\WKLQJP\ KXVEDQGDQG,KDYHUHJUHVVHG´ +HURZQSDUHQWVZHUHKLSSLHVZKR only got married to get a mortgage. When she told them she was PDUU\LQJ5LJKWRQWKH\ZHUHPLOGO\ XQLPSUHVVHG³,W¶OOEHIXQ´WKH FRXSOHLQVLVWHG6KHZRQSUDLVHIRU KHU³IUXJDO´ZHGGLQJ²UHF\FOLQJD Chanel dress and commissioning a gold wedding ring from a friend. 7KHUH¶VVRPHWKLQJSOHDVLQJO\ROG VFKRRODERXW.QLJKWOH\6KHKRSHV SHRSOHZLOOJRWRVHH7KH,PLWDWLRQ *DPHDQGVHHWKDW7XULQJZDV³RQH of the JUDQGIDWKHUV´RIWKHPRGHUQ FRPSXWHU³UDWKHUWKDQ6WHYH-REVRU %LOO*DWHV´EXWVRFLDOPHGLDOHDYHV KHUFROG³,ZDVRQ7ZLWWHUIRUDERXW KRXUVDQGMXVWZHQWµ1RLW¶VQRW P\WKLQJ¶$OORIP\IULHQGVDUHRQ ,QVWDJUDPDQG,RFFDVLRQDOO\OLNH ORRNLQJDWWKHLUVWXÌ&#x2020;EXW,ZRXOGQ¶W WKLQNDERXWWDNLQJDSLFWXUHRI DQ\WKLQJ´ 6KHZRUULHVDERXWWKH³PLUURU´ ZRUOGZH¶UHFUHDWLQJZLWKVHO¿HV ³,ZDVLQDKRWHOLQ1HZ<RUNDQGLW ZDVDPD]LQJ,VWRRGDQGZDWFKHG WKHVHJLUOVZKRZHUHDERXWIRUDQ KRXURXWVLGHP\ZLQGRZ1RQHRI WKHPVSRNHWRHDFKRWKHUEXWWKHUH ZHUHDERXWRIWKHPDQGWKH\ZHUH DOOLQGLYLGXDOO\WDNLQJSLFWXUHVRI WKHPVHOYHVDQGWKHQLQJURXSVHDFK VZDSSLQJEXWQRERG\VD\LQJDZRUG MXVWORRNLQJDWWKHSKRQHDQGWKHQ JRLQJEDFNDQGKDYLQJWKHEHVWWLPH ,WKRXJKWWKLVLVVXFKDQLQWHUHVWLQJ VRFLDOWUHQG´ ,W¶VIXQQ\WRWKLQNRIDQ$OLVW FHOHEULW\ZDWFKLQJDJURXS of schoolgirls as if they were SHUIRUPHUVEXWDV.QLJKWO\ REVHUYHVWKHÃ&#x20AC;DVK\OHDGLVQRW DOZD\VWKHLQWHUHVWLQJSDUW³4XLWH RIWHQWKH\¶UHWKHZDVKLQJOLQHDQG HYHU\RQHHOVHLVWKHSHJ6RPHWLPHV LW¶VPRUHLQWHUHVWLQJWREHWKHSHJ´ Keira Knightley is the face of Chanel Coco Mademoiselle


This month marks 50 years since Sam Cooke was sensationally shot through the heart. AIR examines the tragic final night of the singerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life, and his longreaching impact on American culture

LONG LIVE THE KING OF SOUL Words: RICHARD JENKINS

Lady, you shot me!â&#x20AC;? were the last words to come from a shocked Sam Cookeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mouth on December 10, 1964. As his eyes moved from the holes in his chest to the smoking gun in the hotel managerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand, one can only imagine the disbelief in his mind. The life of perhaps the greatest soul singer the world had ever seen was about to come to an ignominious end. Cooke had been on a roll. Since You Send Me catapulted him to the top of the US charts in 1957, the singer had enjoyed seven years of near-continual VXFFHVVSXWWLQJRXWHUDGHÂżQLQJVRQJVOLNH:RQGHUIXO :RUOG&KDLQ*DQJDQGSHUKDSVKLVÂżQHVWPRPHQW WKHFLYLOULJKWVDQWKHP$&KDQJH,V*RQQD&RPH%XW success, despite his humble upbringings, led to Cookeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s demise.

%RUQLQ0LVVLVVLSSLLQ6DP&RRN KHDGGHGWKH ÂżQDOÂłH´KLPVHOIODWHU ZDVRQHRIHLJKWFKLOGUHQERUQWR the Reverend Charles Cook and his wife Annie Mae. As WKH*UHDW'HSUHVVLRQWRRNKROGRIWKHVRXWKLQWKH\HDU of Samâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s birth, Cook moved his family north, preaching across the country to the thousands of black families who were making the same journey. Finally, the family settled in Chicago, where Charles took a job in the pulpit at Christ Temple Church. It was here that the musical talent in his young family began to reveal itself, and ÂżYHRIKLVHLJKWFKLOGUHQZRXOGUHJXODUO\SHUIRUPDVD religious act. Over the next several years, the family performed at churches all over the city â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but one voice stood out above all the others. It was Sam, who would WHOOKLVVLEOLQJVÂł,ÂśPJRQQDVLQJDQGPDNHDORWRIPRQH\ doing it.â&#x20AC;? 3HWHU*XUDOQLFNLVDQ$PHULFDQPXVLFZULWHUDQG DXWKRURIVHPLQDO&RRNHELRJUDSK\'UHDP%RRJLH+H - 66 -


- 67 -


- 68 -


tells AIR: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sam was as gifted musically as any member of his or any other generation. If you were looking for a suitable comparison, I suppose it would be Ray Charles or Merle Haggard, in that he wrote, produced, and then sang â&#x20AC;&#x201C;Ă&#x20AC;DZOHVVO\â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all of his songs. He left behind a catalogue of more than 130 songs, many of which, like Wonderful World, are standards which continue to be recorded to this day, while A Change Is Gonna Come has been an anthem not just for the civil rights movement but for social change of every kind from the time of its ÂżUVWUHOHDVH´ By the time Sam had reached his late teens, black gospel music was getting showier, attracting huge crowds and plenty of attention â&#x20AC;&#x201C; exactly what Sam was looking for. He idolised a singer named R.H. Harris, from the group Soul Stirrers. The young Cooke (it was around this time he amended his second name) was ready to leave his family behind and start making waves under his own name. He and four of his friends started their own gospel quintet named the Highway QCs. At Cookeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s insistence, the group leaned heavily on the Soul Stirrersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; back catalogue for material, and Cookeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hours spent practising the vocal stylings of R.H. Harris were put to good use. The Highway QCsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; success in the gospel market was marked, but it still wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enough for Cooke. Most of the fans of the genre were poor, many of them blazing the same trails the Cook family had followed to escape the economic depression. Cooke wanted more, and an opportunity was about to present itself that seemed like a dream come true â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in 1950, R.H. Harris left the Soul Stirrers to perform solo. What could be better for &RRNHWKDQÂżOOLQJKLVLGROÂśVVKRHV"$WMXVW\HDUVROG he was on the road with his new group, performing over a thousand concerts across the US over a period of six years. After making dozens of records with the Soul Stirrers,

LVDERXWWREHUHOHDVHG7KHQDPHRQWKHVOHHYH"'DOH Cooke. Cooke had taken on this fake name to begin KLVSRSFDUHHUVRDVQRWWRRĚ&#x2020;HQGKLVJRVSHOIDQV 8QIRUWXQDWHO\IRU'DOH6DP/RYDEOHIDLOHGWRPDNH much of an impression on the charts. It wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t until the following year that Keen Records released Sam &RRNHÂśVÂżUVWVRORUHFRUGXQGHUKLVUHDOQDPH7KHWUDFN ZDVFDOOHG6XPPHUWLPHEXWLWZDVWKH%VLGH<RX Send Me, which Cooke performed on the Ed Sullivan

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The easiest way for Cooke to propel himself into the musical stratosphere would be to leave gospel and dive headfirst into popâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; a new facet to Cookeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personality began to open up. He noticed that artists like Little Richard and Chuck Berry had begun to attract crowds that were a mixture of white and black faces â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whereas he was playing to audiences that were predominantly black. At the same time, the white performer Elvis Presley was turning the world of music on its head, bringing rock-and-roll to the masses and sending legions of black and white fans into raptures of ecstasy. The easiest way for Cooke to tap into this new market and propel himself into the musical stratosphere would be to leave the world of gospel EHKLQGDQGGLYHKHDGÂżUVWLQWRSRSPXVLF Summertime, 1956. A new pop single called Lovable

Show, that broke through. Guralnick says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sam had VHYHUDOEUHDNWKURXJKVRQJV7KHÂżUVW<RX6HQG0HWKH YHU\ÂżUVWSRSVRQJKHUHFRUGHGXQGHUKLVRZQQDPH established him as a number one pop star in a way that virtually no other African-American singer prior to him had been able to achieve. Bring It On Home to Me, like Ray Charlesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; I Got a Woman before it, brought the LQĂ&#x20AC;XHQFHRIWKHEODFNFKXUFK DULVLQJVSHFLÂżFDOO\RXWRI Samâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deep gospel experience) into the pop marketplace DQGHVWDEOLVKHGDWHPSODWHIRUVRXOPXVLF7KHLQĂ&#x20AC;XHQFH RI$&KDQJH,V*RQQD&RPHVSHDNVIRULWVHOI´ The day after the Ed Sullivan performance, the song made number one on the Billboard pop chart, going on

- 69 -


to sell over a million copies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; more than 10 times his EHVWVHOOLQJZRUNZLWKWKH6RXO6WLUUHUV'DOH&RRNHZDV dead. Sam Cook, gospel singer, was in the past. The era of Sam Cooke, pop superstar, was just beginning. And so began the stellar run of hits that would put Cooke in the pantheon of musical greats, and all the trappings that came with fame. Guralnick, however, dismisses claims that Cooke was a philanderer, saying: â&#x20AC;&#x153;If Sam was a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;womaniser,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; I would be hard pressed WRÂżQGDSRSXODUHQWHUWDLQHURIKLVRUDQ\RWKHU JHQHUDWLRQZKRZDVQÂśW´

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;It was the same need for respect that was to be Cookeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s downfallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; %\&RRNHZDVRQWRSRIWKHZRUOGEXWÂżQGLQJ out the hard way that the world wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fair. On October 8 of that year, the singer attempted to check into a hotel in Shreveport, Louisiana. His reservation was taken by phone, but when he arrived at the hotel to check in, he was turned away â&#x20AC;&#x201C; because of the colour of his skin. Cooke, a proud man, refused to leave the building. The police were called and Cooke was arrested â&#x20AC;&#x201C; standing up for his rights and for himself. This incident led directly to the polemic A Change is Gonna Come, which came to Cooke in a dream â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the only song of his to have done so. The song became the anthem for the civil rights movement in the US and an emblem of racial equality. Guralnick says the song is causing an impact even today. â&#x20AC;&#x153;A Change Is Gonna Come was a direct response to the terrible racial inequities of the time â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but more than WKDWLWIRXQGLQWKHVSHFLÂżFWKHEDVLVIRUDXQLYHUVDO appeal for social justice everywhere. Which is why 3UHVLGHQW2EDPDFRXOGTXRWHIURPLWVRHĚ&#x2020;HFWLYHO\LQ *UDQW3DUNRQWKHQLJKWRIKLVHOHFWLRQ´KHVD\V And it was the same need for respect that was to be Cookeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s downfall, a little over a year later. On the night RI'HFHPEHU&RRNHZDVGXHWRGLQHZLWKKLV record producer Al Schmitt at Martoniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, a celebrity haunt near Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles. Predinner, Cooke and Schmitt enjoyed several cocktails in the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lounge, when a young woman caught the singerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye. He winked at her, and she winked back. For Cooke, dinner was cancelled. The girl was called Elisa Boyer, and her enigmatic looks entranced Cooke. Onlookers said that the two canoodled like a pair of old lovers in a private booth â&#x20AC;&#x201C; like they had known each other for years, not hours. It wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t long before Cooke whispered in Boyerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ear that perhaps it was time they got out of there, and the pair slid out to Cookeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s waiting Ferrari and drove to PJs, a happening spot on Santa Monica Boulevard frequented E\WKH5DW3DFNRI)UDQN6LQDWUD'HDQ0DUWLQ6DPP\ 'DYLV-UHWDO$V&RRNHPDGHWKHURXQGVZLWKKLV

famous friends, he left Boyer alone at their table â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and another man took the opportunity to swoop. Cooke UHWXUQHGGUXQNDQGFKDOOHQJHGWKHPDQWRDÂżJKW7KH WKUHDWZDVVRRQGHĂ&#x20AC;DWHGEXWLWZDVFOHDUWKDW&RRNHZDV XQGHUWKHLQĂ&#x20AC;XHQFH The night somewhat spoiled, the couple left PJs, again hitting the open road in Cookeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bright red Ferrari. It wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take a master detective to surmise their SODQVÂą&RRNHÂśVSURPLVFXLW\KDGOHIWKLPZLWKRĚ&#x2020;VSULQJ scattered across the continental United States, and Boyer was no stranger to the men on the Sunset Strip. Cooke drove past any number of motels before he reached his destination of choice: The Hacienda Motel, in South Central L.A. The sign out front read â&#x20AC;&#x153;Everyone :HOFRPH´ÂąZKLFKLQPHDQWEODFNV Bertha Franklin was working the overnight shift in the dingy lobby when Cooke and his companion arrived. She pointed out that the motelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s policy required the pair to register as husband and wife, and the singer duly ZURWHÂł0UDQG0UV6DP&RRNH´LQKHUORJERRNEHIRUH stumbling to their bedroom, where the night took a turn for the unpleasant, and Boyer changed her mind about spending the night. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I started talking very loudly: Âľ3OHDVHWDNHPHKRPHϫVKHODWHUWROGSROLFHÂł+HSLQQHG me on the bed. He kept saying, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re just going to talkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. +HSXOOHGP\VZHDWHURĚ&#x2020;DQGULSSHGP\GUHVV´ Boyer was able to escape when Cooke was in the bathroom â&#x20AC;&#x201C; taking his clothes and wallet with her. When Cooke emerged, he discovered an empty room and ZDVFRQVXPHGZLWKUDJH'UXQNDQGGUHVVHGRQO\LQD MDFNHWDQGVKRHVKHVWRUPHGWRWKHPRWHORĚ&#x2021;FHZKHUHKH confronted Franklin, who happened to be on the phone with the motel owner. The singer repeatedly bellowed Âł:KHUHÂśVWKHJLUO"´DVKHKDPPHUHGRQWKHGRRU Franklin put the phone receiver on the desk, with the line still open, and went to the door. As soon as she got there, Cooke kicked the door in and seized the woman by her arms. A furious struggle ensued, and when Franklin broke free, she grabbed her .22 pistol, pointed it at the crazed man and pulled the trigger three times, changing music history with each squeeze. *XUDOQLFNVD\VWKDWHYHQLQKLVÂżQDOIXULRXV moments, Cooke was acting with dignity. He says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The circumstances of his death were sordid â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but the reason for it was the same one that had almost gotten him killed in Shreveport just one year earlier: the refusal to be disrespected that he and all of his brothers and sisters had learned at their fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knee. In Shreveport Sam stood up against the prevailing racial mores of the time over the remonstrations of his wife and brother that the police would kill him. (They didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t. They just threw him in jail.) At the Hacienda Motel in Los Angeles, he was QRWJRLQJWROHWKLPVHOIEHVKDPHGRUWDNHQRĚ&#x2020;E\DQ\ ZRPDQ HYHQLIVKHKDGPDGHRĚ&#x2020;ZLWKKLVPRQH\DQGKLV clothes) â&#x20AC;&#x201C;DQGWKHUHVXOWZDVKLVGHDWK´ Keeping your principles until the very end â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as Cooke sang, so did he live.

- 70 -


- 71 -


- 72 -


Waight For It $V&KORpRSHQVDÀDJVKLSVWRUHLQ5L\DGK$,5VLWVGRZQZLWKFUHDWLYH director &/$5(:$,*+7.(//(5WRGLVFXVV3DULVLDQFKLFDQGWKH LPSRUWDQFHRIEHLQJ\RXUVHOI

S

hould the butcher ÀDVK\RXDFHUWDLQ VPRXOGHUDVKHVKRZV R̆KLV¿QHVWFXWVWKHQ \RXDUHUHSRUWV&ODUH :DLJKW.HOOHUZHOO RQ\RXUZD\WREHFRPLQJXQHYUDL 3DULVLHQQH$VDQ(QJOLVKZRPDQ LQ3DULVIRUQHDUO\WKUHH\HDUVVKH VKRXOGNQRZ7KHGHVLJQHUPRYHG KHUHIURP/RQGRQZLWKKHUWKUHH FKLOGUHQDQGKXVEDQGWKHDUFKLWHFW 3KLOLS.HOOHUWRWDNHRYHUDVGHVLJQHU DWWKDW)UHQFKHVWRIDOO)UHQFK IDVKLRQKRXVHV&KORp 7KHLQYHQWRURISUrWjSRUWHU DQGIRUPHUKRPHRI.DUO/DJHUIHOG &KORpLVDOODERXWOLJKWQHVVRIWRXFK JHQWO\WUDQVPLWWHGVH[LQHVVDQG VHHPLQJO\H̆RUWOHVVHDVH$WZRUN VKHLVZHOORQKHUZD\WRPDVWHULQJ WKRVHWKHPHVRQ&KORp¶VFDWZDON%XW DWKRPH±DQG:DLJKW.HOOHUVD\V VKHDOZD\VKDVDIXOOZHHNHQGR̆ HYHQLIVKHKDVWRZRUNODWHGXULQJ WKHZHHNWRPDNHWKDWKDSSHQ± WKHUHFDOLEUDWLRQIURP(QJODQGWR )UDQFHKDVEHHQDVORZHUSURFHVV ³2QHRIWKHEHVWWKLQJVDERXW 3DULV´VKHVD\VDVZHVLWLQKHUOLWWOH ṘFH³LVWKDWWKHUHDUHVRPDQ\ VKRSVWKDWVSHFLDOLVH<RXEX\\RXU FKHHVHLQWKHFKHHVHVKRS7KHPHDW FRPHVIURPWKHEXWFKHU<RXGRQ¶W

JRWRWKHVXSHUPDUNHW7REHFRPHD ORFDOKHUH\RXKDYHWRNHHSJRLQJWR WKHVDPHSODFHRYHUDQGRYHU6ORZO\ WKH\JHWWRNQRZ\RXDQGUHDOLVH \RXDUHQRWDWRXULVW$WWKHFKHHVH VKRSRQFHWKH\NQHZ,ZDVDUHSHDW FXVWRPHUWKH\RSHQHGXSVWDUWHG WDONLQJDQGJLYLQJWKHFKLOGUHQ VDPSOHVWRWU\1RZWKH\DUHWU\LQJ WRWHDFKPHDERXWFKHHVH´ $VZHOODVJHQHUDOXQIULHQGOLQHVV RQHRIWKHRWKHUJUHDWFDQDUGVDERXW 3DULVLVWKDWWKHPHQDUHZHOOUDWKHU SURQHWRÀLUWDWLRQ³,KDYHWRVD\´ VD\V:DLJKW.HOOHUDIWHUDGLSORPDWLF JODQFHWRZDUGV&KORp¶VJRUJHRXVO\ DFFHQWHGKHDGRISUHVV³7KDWWKDW¶V WUXH)UHQFKPHQDEVROXWHO\OLYHXS

/RQGRQVD\V:DLJKW.HOOHULVWKH DWWLWXGHWRRVWHQWDWLRQ³+HUHLWLV VHHQDVUHDOO\YXOJDUWRVKRZ\RXU ZHDOWK3HRSOHGRQ¶WÀDVKWKHLUIXUV RUZHDUDORWRIGLDPRQGV±WKH\ SUHIHUJROG,W¶VWRQHGGRZQDQGYHU\ FKLF7KHZRPHQKHUHIRFXVRQWKH TXDOLW\RIZKDWWKH\DUHEX\LQJ7KH\ ZDQWLWHPVWKDWDUHRQWKHYHU\EHVW OHYHO´ 7KLVDQWLEOLQJDHVWKHWLFLVDOLWWOH LURQLFJLYHQWKDWVRPHRI3DULV¶PRVW IDPRXVKRXVHVQRZVHOODYLVLRQRI XOWUDFRQVSLFXRXVFRQVXPSWLRQ DURXQGWKHZRUOG&KORpWKRXJK WHQGVWREHDQH[FHSWLRQ³,W¶V WKDWVHQVHRIHDVH\RXPHQWLRQ´ VD\V:DLJKW.HOOHU³DQG,WU\DQG

‘What’s important is clothes that let you be you’ WRWKHLUUHSXWDWLRQ´³,WLV´LQWHUMHFWV WKHSUHVVṘFHU³DOODERXWWKHORRN LQWKHLUH\H´ ³<HV´DJUHHV:DLJKW.HOOHU³7KDW ORRNDQGKRZIRULQVWDQFHLQWKH EXWFKHU¶VWKH\VD\µ/HWPHVKRZ\RX WKLVRQH±LW¶VYHU\VSHFLDO¶,W¶VYHU\ FKDUPLQJ´ $SDUWIURPWKHHQGOHVVO\KRSHIXO PDVFXOLQHSLWFKLQJDQRWKHU GL̆HUHQFHEHWZHHQ3DULVDQG - 73 -

FUHDWHWKDWWKURXJKOLJKWQHVV 7KDWFDQEHKDUGWRGRZKLOHDOVR UHPDLQLQJPRGHUQDVVRPXFK LQUHFHQWIDVKLRQKDVEHHQDERXW ERQGLQJVWL̆QHVVDQGVWUXFWXUH6R PDLQWDLQLQJWKHFRUHRIWKHKRXVH LGHQWLW\WKHVRIWQHVVDQGÀXLGLW\ ZKLOHLPSRVLQJDVHQVHRIPRGHUQLW\ LVDUHDOFKDOOHQJH$QGDORWRILWLV DERXWWKHULJKWIDEULFV´ :DLJKW.HOOHU¿UVWOHDUQWDERXW


â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;French women always choose quality over quantityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fabrics, and the complicated business of sourcing them, as a girl growing up in Birmingham. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I used to go to the old rag market with my mother, who would make clothes for the family and things for the house. It was a huge warehouse space ÂżOOHGZLWKWKHVHOLWWOHVWDOOV6KH was careful about what she bought and we always calculated what we would buy and what we would use it for beforehand.â&#x20AC;? Her degree at the Royal College of Art and formative years working for Calvin Klein in New York and Pringle in London apart; this sounds like a perfect training for the head of a house as enormous as ChloĂŠ. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I suppose it ZDVYHU\LQĂ&#x20AC;XHQWLDO$IWHUDZKLOHLW felt natural, and I have always loved looking at fabrics.â&#x20AC;? This is one of Waight Kellerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chief TXDOLÂżFDWLRQVDW&KORp%HFDXVH DWÂżUVWVLJKWDFODVVLF&KORpRXWÂżW

cotton and denim that, as you wear it, it ages and starts to tell the story of your life.â&#x20AC;? The breezy, bohemian collection featured pretty broderie DQJODLVHDQGSDVWHOFKLĚ&#x2020;RQGUHVVHV while butter soft suede shirt-jackets, convertible twill blazers and denim worked into cropped straight-leg jeans and skirts lent an urban edge. 6KHGHGLFDWHGWKHFROOHFWLRQ to the fashion houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Egyptianborn founder Gaby Aghion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x153;an incredible forceâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who passed away, aged 93, at her Paris home just GD\VEHIRUHWKH6HSWHPEHUVKRZ Born in 1921 to a wealthy family of intellectuals, Aghion arrived in Paris LQ6KHFRIRXQGHG&KORpVHYHQ years later with business partner Jacques Lenoir, introducing lighter and more free-spirited designs at a time when French fashion was GRPLQDWHGE\WKHUHÂżQHGIHPLQLQLW\ of Diorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s New Look. - 74 -

Despite her outsider status, Aghion went on to embody the chic Parisian femininity that Waight Keller continues to interpret so HĚ&#x2020;RUWOHVVO\WRGD\Âł,WÂśVLQWHUHVWLQJ because you really feel a cultural GLĚ&#x2020;HUHQFHZKHQ\RXJRWRWKH Middle East, and in a way, maybe I have a sense now of what Gaby went through when she moved from Egypt to Paris,â&#x20AC;? Waight Keller told Interview magazine in 2013. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s DPDVVLYHFXOWXUDOGLĚ&#x2020;HUHQFH,FDQ imagine how she must have felt like an outsider. And then to create something that was particularly for Parisian women and to become iconic for Paris is quite an amazing feat.â&#x20AC;? When it comes to her own design muses, Waight Keller looks to women who ooze individuality. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Male designers often say their clothes make women feel powerful RUFRQÂżGHQW%XWIRUPHWKDWÂśVQRW what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about â&#x20AC;&#x201D; whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important is clothes that let you be â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s WKHXOWLPDWHORRN6R,DGPLUH Katharine Hepburn â&#x20AC;&#x201D; she was very â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Herâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Marlene Dietrich and Coco Chanel all very much,â&#x20AC;? she says. In terms of her own style, Waight Keller says her get-up-and-go 3DULVLHQQHRXWÂżWLVÂłDFUHSHGHFKLQH blouse, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an absolute French standby; then, being at ChloĂŠ, a soft pair of pants with volumeâ&#x20AC;?. The three pairs of shoes she would take with her on a desert island are equally FODVVLFÂł,ZRXOGGHÂżQLWHO\VD\D ChloĂŠ wedge sandal â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it is one of those any time, any place shoes. And a pair of Manolos: Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been a huge fan for years. I have a lizard pair that I love; slingbacks, cream, with that QDWXUDOSDWWHUQ$QGÂżQDOO\DSDLU of boots, bikers or what Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m wearing today â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Chelsea boots,â&#x20AC;? she says. And her most cherished piece of jewellery? â&#x20AC;&#x153;There are some bracelets that I often wear, including this Hermès one I bought a few years ago. And my watch, a Cartier menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ZDWFK,ZDLWHGDORQJWLPHWRÂżQGLW and I know Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll wear it forever then SDVVLWRQ´VKHVD\V6SRNHQOLNHD true Parisienne.

Words: Luke Leitch. Additional copy by Lara Brunt

â&#x20AC;&#x201C; perhaps a beige crepe blouse ZLWKDGHOLFDWHO\Ă&#x20AC;DWWHULQJSOHDWHG skirt â&#x20AC;&#x201C; does not semaphore its expensiveness. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Well, that is another thing about the French. They donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do the high street trend â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Oh, yes, that is very London.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Instead French women are very particular about what they buy, and they always choose quality over quantity for sure. They prefer very, very good fabrics in everyday staples. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why they always look so chic â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it looks like just a skirt and a top, but the fabric and the colour elevate it.â&#x20AC;? This, agrees Waight Keller, is about a rejection of vulgarity, and a preference for the eternal over the ephemeral. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a tough message to transmit in fashion, which tends to focus on the short-term over the long game. But transmitting it she is. Backstage at her spring/summer 2015 collection, Waight Keller said her focus was on fabrics that tell a VWRU\ÂłODFHVWKDWKDGĂ&#x20AC;RZHUVDQG birds, and the idea of utilitarian


- 75 -


As the official sponsor of this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dubai International Film Festival, IWC Schaffhausen reveals its latest celluloid inspired photoshoot with legendary photographer Peter Lindbergh, who captured this constellation of stars for the launch of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Portofino Midsize collection. AIR heads behind the scenes...

- 76 -

,:&%UDQG$PEDVVDGRUVDFWUHVVHV(PLO\%OXQW=KRX;XQDQG&DWH%ODQFKHWW3RUWRÂżQR ,WDO\ 0D\3HWHU/,1'%(5*+Â&#x2039;3HWHU/,1'%(5*+

f this months


1.


IWC Brand Ambassadors actresses Emily Blunt, Zhou Xun and Cate Blanchett, 3RUWR¿QR ,WDO\ 0D\3HWHU/,1'%(5*+Â&#x2039;3HWHU/,1'%(5*+

2.

3.

- 78 ,:&%UDQG$PEDVVDGRUVDFWRUV&KULVWRSK:DOW]DQG(ZDQ0F*UHJRU 3RUWR¿QR ,WDO\ 0D\3HWHU/,1'%(5*+Â&#x2039;3HWHU/,1'%(5*+


IWC Brand Ambassadors actresses Emily Blunt and Zhou ;XQ0D\3HWHU/,1'%(5*+Â&#x2039;3HWHU/,1'%(5*+

4.

1. Dressed in elegant black tuxedos, Cate Blanchett, Emily Blunt and Zhou Xun pose on the terrace of the Splendido, a grande dame which lists Ava Gardner and Elizabeth Taylor as former guests.

2. The village has lent its name to the Portofino line since its launch in 1984. Here, Christoph Waltz and Ewan McGregor sip espresso at a coffee bar where time appears to have stood still for decades.

3. Australian actress Cate 4. La Cervara, an ancient abbey which is the main Blanchett, Brit-actress location for the shoot Emily Blunt and Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Peter Lindberghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Zhou Xun take to the control centre for three Mediterranean on board days, sees the stars a classic Riva boat, meander around its before returning to grounds during the the picturesque Italian course of the shoot. harbour town.

- 79 -


MOTORING

By Invitation

ONLY

Luxury carmakers are making sure some of their models are ultraexclusive by only producing limited amounts, often hand-picking the buyers. Here are four of this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest unveilings

- 80 -


Jaguar â&#x20AC;&#x153;Lightweightâ&#x20AC;? E-Type Earlier this year, Jaguar shocked the motoring world when it revealed it was beginning work on six brand-new E-types â&#x20AC;&#x201C; arguably the most iconic car ever built. The six â&#x20AC;&#x153;Lightweightâ&#x20AC;? Jaguars are made from chassis numbers thought to have been lost from the original run of 18 of the racing models. Jaguar has decided to build these six cars, which will cost over US$1.5 million HDFKWRWKHH[DFWVSHFLÂżFDWLRQVRI the last models built in 1963. This has required a painstaking search for materials and even a reversal of some factory processes to make the new models as authentic as possible. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Notableâ&#x20AC;? Jaguar collectors have already ordered all six cars, and the lucky half-dozen will take delivery of their museum pieces over the next 18 months.

Rarity Rating: 5/5

- 81 -


MOTORING Bentley Mulsanne Majestic Hailed as the most desirable car ever to roll out of Bentleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s factory in Crewe, England, the Mulsanne Majestic exists in remarkably small QXPEHUV7KHUHDUHÂżYHLQWKH 8$(ÂżYHLQ4DWDUDQGÂżYHLQ6DXGL Arabia. The car itself is an absolute VKRZVWRSSHUDQGWKHÂżYHWKDWZHUH unveiled in Jeddah last month have VHYHUDOSRLQWVRIGLĚ&#x2020;HUHQFHIURPWKH standard Mulsanne. Firstly, each of the cars is individually numbered. 6HFRQGO\WKHUHLVÂł0DMHVWLF´ branding on treadplate plaques and the front wheel arch. Finally, there is its stunning paintwork, a two-tone combination of Peacock Blue and ([WUHPH6LOYHU7KHVHDUHSUREDEO\ the most luxurious cars Bentley has ever produced.

Rarity Rating: 3/5

Aston Martin Lagonda The Lagonda marque hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t been seen since the late 1970s, but Aston Martin has decided to revive the brand by creating an all-new super saloon known as the Lagonda 7DUDI7KHDOOFDUERQÂżEUHERG\ keeps the weight of the monolithic vehicle down, and the 6.0-litre engine pushes out incredible power â&#x20AC;&#x201C; making this saloon comfortably the fastest in the class that it helped create. At the time of writing only 100 of these unique saloons will be made available in the Middle East, although at an exclusive launch event, AIR was told that invitations to purchase have been snapped up so quickly, there is talk of making it available in other regions as wellâ&#x20AC;Ś

Rarity Rating: 3/5 - 82 -


Ferrari F60America Just 10 of these incredible Ferraris are being produced, in order to celebrate Ferrari’s 60th year in North America. The new car celebrates everything American drivers love – a snorting V12 engine and a soft top – and each of the roadsters is already spoken for. A spokesman for Ferrari tells AIR: “It had to be an extremely limited number, and 10 was the same number as the last true limited series made exclusively for the US, the 1967 275 GTS4 NART Spider.” The lucky 10 buyers, who were approached personally by Ferrari, won’t see their cars until the end of 2015 – but a car like this is certainly worth the wait.

Rarity Rating: 4/5 - 83 -


GASTRONOMY

Korea

Opportunities

Words: RICHARD JENKINS

- 84 -


Judy Joo is the Korean-American chef taking the world by storm. She tells AIR about her new London restaurant, going crazy in Hestonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fat Duck and being a woman in a manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world

T

hink of your favourite type of food. Is it Italian, Chinese or perhaps Indian? If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re from the UK, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s almost certain that your answer wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be Korean. This is something that Korean-American chef Judy Joo aims to change when she opens her new restaurant, Jinjuu, in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trendy Soho in mid-January. For many reasons, Joo is not your average celebrity chef. As a starter sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only been in the kitchen for 10 years. Compared to someone like Marco Pierre White, who seems to have been around since the invention of bread, earning your chef whites in 2004 makes you something of a baby. For a main course, in that decade she has found incredible success, the likes of which it takes most chefs dozens of years to accumulate. And for dessert, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an absolute riot. During AIRâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interview, Joo has to pause conversations several times to break RĚ&#x2020;LQODXJKWHU2KDQGKHUHÂśVDQ DIWHUGLQQHUPLQWIRUWKHÂżUVWÂżYH years of her career, she was a highĂ&#x20AC;\LQJPDUNHWWUDGHUDQGWKHFORVHVW she got to a kitchen was ordering in expensive food while working late in the boardroom. Âł,ÂśYHGHÂżQLWHO\KDGWZROLYHV´ Joo says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Growing up on the East Coast of America, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re very much on a fast-track. I went to an all-girls college, preparatory high school, Ivy League school, majored in HQJLQHHULQJWKHQZHQWLQWRÂżQDQFHÂŤ

- 85 -


GASTRONOMY I was kind of on this track to, I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know, make it big? [laughs]. I did that at Morgan Stanley for about ÂżYH\HDUV%DFNWKHQPRQH\JUHZRQ trees so there was a lot of incentive to work at these places. Everybody was brilliant, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Type Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, coming out RIDPD]LQJVFKRROV$IWHUÂżYH\HDUV of this I thought, I really donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t love Âż[HGLQFRPHVHFXULWLHV>ODXJKV uproariously]. I really wanted to do VRPHWKLQJPRUHFUHDWLYH´ Joo joined the culinary arts at the foot of the ladder â&#x20AC;&#x201C; back in the classroom. She recalls: â&#x20AC;&#x153;I met a ORWRISHRSOHZKRÂśGVD\VWXĚ&#x2020;OLNHÂľ, wanted to become a mechanic but ,IDLOHGWKDWVFKRROVR,ÂśPKHUHÂś´ Her education also included stints at Saveur magazine. She says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was

She also did a stint at Heston %OXPHQWKDOÂśV)DW'XFNEXWLW wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t all inventing new ways to deconstruct the grapefruit and pairing snails with ice cream. Joo says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Usually when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in a kitchen youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re very rarely in test

writing, doing recipe development, working in test kitchens. I really utilised my science and engineering background, because cooking is really science. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re using these recipes over and over again until itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s absolutely perfect. And it makes DELJGLĚ&#x2020;HUHQFHLI\RXXVHEXWWHU YHUVXVRLOYHUVXVODUGWKHĂ&#x20AC;RXUWKH W\SHRIVXJDU\RXXVHÂąLWDOODĚ&#x2020;HFWV the end product. And from there I ended up working for Gordon Ramsay for about two-and-a-half \HDUV´

you start. And you play all these games, like â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;how many of these can I make in an hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. As a low OHYHOFKHIWKDWÂśVKRZLWLV%XWWKHQ when you start making salads and putting things together, it gets more LQWHUHVWLQJ´ 7KHFKHIÂśVÂżUVWELJUROHZDV executive chef at Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Playboy Club - think bunny ears and canapĂŠs. After three-and-a-half years she describes as â&#x20AC;&#x153;the fun IDFWRU´WKHRSSRUWXQLW\FDPHWR branch out alone. Joo says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;One of

the patrons [of the Playboy Club] manages football players, and he loved my food. He found my number and said he wanted to see if we could come up with a concept together and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what happened. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern .RUHDQIRRGPDGHLQDIXQZD\´

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I really utilise my science & engineering backgroundâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; environments, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in production. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re making the same thing all day long. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re just hired like slave labour! [laughs] Making thousands and thousands of perfectly shaped diced potatoes and apples, for hours a day. It can drive you crazy, but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what you do, and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when

- 86 -

The concept is Jinjuu, which aims to bring Korean food to the European market that is tipped to embrace it in a big way. Joo describes the restaurant, saying: Âł7KHJURXQGĂ&#x20AC;RRUFRQFHSWLVEDVHG around the Korean word Anju, which is food that you eat when you drink. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kind of snacks, fusion things like mini burgers, dumplings, small plates that you can make a meal out of it. And our main thing is Korean Fried Chicken â&#x20AC;&#x201C; people call it the better KFC. Downstairs is more of a dining concept where we have big VKDULQJSODWWHUV´ Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a long way to have come for a woman from the East Coast of America. It would be easy to describe Joo as a pioneer in FRRNLQJDQG¹³$VDZRPDQ´VKH interjects. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My inspirations are of course Angela Hartnett on this side RIWKHSRQG6KHZDVWKHÂżUVWDQG the only for a really long time. And then in New York, people like April %ORRPÂżHOG2OLYLD)DONQHU0HOLVVD Hamilton â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there are so many but there needs to be more. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s taking a while, but it will happen eventually. There are probably parallels in Wall Street. When I was at Morgan Stanley [in the San Francisco RĚ&#x2021;FH@,ZDVWKHRQO\IHPDOHWKHUH There were secretaries and sales assistants who were women, but I was the only female professional. I think in New York there were three. Out of 500 people. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slowly starting to get better, and become DQLFHUHQYLURQPHQW´<RXJHWWKH impression that Judy Joo is the kind of woman who can help make that happen â&#x20AC;&#x201C; letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s see what the next 10 years bring.


- 87 -


TRAVEL

Magical ST. MORITZ As the Swiss playground celebrates 150 years of winter tourism, AIR takes to its slopes to discover how it became a haven for the rich and famous

- 88 -


W

ith its combination of reliable snowfall, 300-odd days of sunshine a year, opulent hotels and chic boutiques, Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original winter wonderland, positioned at 1,856m in the Engadin Valley in the south of the country, has been luring royals, celebrities and well-heeled snow bunnies for 150 years. Yet, according to legend, spending winter in the Swiss valley â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so isolated it has its own language, Romansh â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all began as the result of a wager. Summer tourism in the Alps was already in full swing when, in autumn 1864, hotelier Johannes Badrutt, owner of the Pension Faller (todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kulm Hotel), made a bet with the last of his English guests. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Come back at Christmas and stay until Easter,â&#x20AC;? he urged. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ÂżQG6W0RULW]DVVXQQ\LQZLQWHUDVLWLVLQ summer, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll pay your travel costs. If you do, you can stay as long as you like.â&#x20AC;? The Englishmen could not imagine that ZLQWHULQWKH6ZLVV$OSVFRXOGEHDQ\GLĚ&#x2020;HUHQW to the cold and damp winters back home. Nonetheless, they returned to Upper Engadin in time for the Christmas season and left after Easter, returning to London tanned, relaxed and happy. And, so the story goes, Alpine tourism was born. 7KH%ULWLVKXSSHUFODVVHVĂ&#x20AC;RFNHGWR6W 0RULW]ZKLOHDULVWRFUDWLFIDQVLQFOXGHG Kaiser Wilhelm II and Tsar Nicholas II. Grand palace hotels were opened and the area quickly became known for winter sports, from ice skating and curling to tobogganing and bobsledding. The natural â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and soon notorious â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Cresta Run was established in 1864, running from St. 0RULW]WRWKHQHDUE\WRZQRI&HOHULQDZKLOH WKH6W0RULW]Âą&HOHULQD2O\PSLFEREVOHLJK run, the oldest in the world, followed in 1904. Both proved popular with fearless society women, until they were barred from the Cresta Run in 1929 for reasons of decorum. In 1928 the town, by then well known for its H[FOXVLYLW\ZDVKRVWRIWKH:LQWHU2O\PSLFV DWZKLFKWKHÂżUVWVNLUDFHVZHUHKHOGDQ honour it received again 20 years later. By the 1930s, the passion for winter sports, and skiing in particular, had spread throughout Switzerland, with 500,000 of the total Swiss population of four million estimated to be hitting the slopes. 2YHUWKHIROORZLQJGHFDGHVFHOHEULWLHV - 89 -


TRAVEL arrived in droves, from Charlie Chaplin and Alfred Hitchcock to Brigitte Bardot and her husband Gunther Sachs, and even John Lennon. The Aga Khan learned to ski in St. 0RULW]E\JOLGLQJRYHUWKHVXUIDFHRIWKHIUR]HQ /DNH6W0RULW]ZLWKVNLVRQKLVIHHWDVGLG the late King Hussein of Jordan. Even Lenin tried his luck on the ice and on the slopes. The 0DKDUDMDRI+\GHUDEDGPHDQZKLOHFKHFNHG in to Suvretta House with 500 trunks and 300 pieces of hand luggage. The exclusive resort has created history in RWKHUZD\VWRR6ZLW]HUODQGÂśVÂżUVWHOHFWULF light shone out in the dining room of the Kulm Hotel in the summer of 1879, while Caspar %DGUXWW-RKDQQHVÂśVVRQRSHQHG(XURSHÂśVÂżUVW palace hotel, Badruttâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Palace, in 1896. New sports have also been created here, the most recent being kite-sailing on the nearby Lake Silvaplana. Today, the Engadin is Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest ZLQWHUVSRUWVUHJLRQÂąDQG6W0RULW]LWVFURZQ MHZHOÂąZLWKRYHUNPRISLVWHVDQGPRUH than 220km of cross-country trails. So what has the glamorous resort got in store for its 150th anniversary? The cultural and sporting celebrations begin RQ'HFHPEHUZLWKWKH6W0RULW]&LW\5DFH which will see celebrities, visitors and locals competing against one another at a ski cross event combined with a cross-country skiing circuit through the heart of the village. In keeping with the nostalgic theme, there will be a retro ski day in the nearby village of Sils on January 17, while visitors can experience the thrill of riding the 1.7km 2O\PSLFEREVOHLJKRQDVOHLJK DQGD more modern one) throughout the season and watch the professionals at work during the bobsleigh and skeleton World Championships from January 12 to 25. In homage to those pioneering British YLVLWRUVIURP\HDUVDJR6W0RULW]ÂśVDQQXDO Gourmet Festival will see British-based chefs, including Angela Hartnett and Claude Bosi, in the kitchens of nine hotels in the region. 7KHÂżYHGD\HYHQWNLFNVRĚ&#x2020;RQ-DQXDU\DW the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains, with workshops, tastings and gourmet dinners. The inaugural Snow Polo World Cup, PHDQZKLOHZDVKHOGLQ6W0RULW]LQDQG has become a much-loved annual event. It takes place over the last weekend in January, providing the unique spectacle of polo horses galloping nimbly across the frozen lake. Another annual highlight is White Turf, which - 90 -


WHERE TO STAY Badruttâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Palace Home to 37 suites, a sprawling wellness centre and the resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smartest nightspot. Nobuyuki Matsuhisa will also unveil his latest Matsuhisa restaurant here this month. badruttspalace.com Kulm Hotel Located on the sunny south-facing slope at the end of the village, the Kulm features 15 suites, five restaurants and a US$12.5million spa centre facing Lake St. Moritz that opened last year. kulm.com Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains Also celebrating 150 years, the hotel has 45 suites, four restaurants including Michelinstarred CĂ dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oro, and a 2,800-square-metre spa. kempinski.com

takes place every Sunday in February. The thrilling race meeting dates back to 1907 and includes skijoring races, whereby brave men and women on skis are pulled along at high speed by unmounted horses, and standard horse-racing, albeit on snow. Rally enthusiasts will no doubt be heading to the 12th edition of the legendary WinterRaid from January 14 to 17. Described as â&#x20AC;&#x153;one of the toughest rallies in winterâ&#x20AC;?, it sees teams tackle mountains, wintery passes, ice and snow in vintage vehicles. Those looking for less action-packed pursuits will enjoy performances by the Engadin Symphony Orchestra between Christmas and New Year throughout the region, while Swiss light artist Gerry Hofstetter will treat visitors to a sensory extravaganza featuring light, music, skiers and ÂżUHZRUNVWKURXJKRXW-DQXDU\DQG)HEUXDU\ 2QHRIWKHÂżQDOHYHQWVLVWKH6ORSHVW\OH World Cup from March 13 to 15. The sport, which debuted at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Winter Olympics in Sochi, sees snowboarders travel down a slope dotted with obstacles, including quarterpipes, rails and progressively higher MXPSV$WKULOOLQJDQGÂżWWLQJÂżQDOHIRUWKH groundbreaking grande dame of winter sports.

Suvretta House Surrounded by the Suvretta-Corviglia winter sport region two kilometres from St. Moritz, the Suvretta has 10 spacious suites and an acclaimed restaurant. suvrettahouse.ch/en Grand Hotel Kronenhof Standing six kilometres from St. Moritz, this elegant hotel has 46 suites, an aptly named Grand Restaurant, a bowling alley and ultra modern spa and wellness centre. kronenhof.com

- 91 -


PROPERT Y Hollywood Screen Legend’s Exclusive Colorado Estate Colorado, USA Nestled deep within the meadows and forest just 12 minutes from the historic resort town of Telluride, Colorado, this property offers the ultimate retreat for those seeking privacy and scenic beauty. Carefully planned over the course of several years, the warm and inviting main house and story-book guest house offer exceptional design and meticulous craftsmanship throughout. The property’s vast acreage is threaded by a private trail system providing gated access into tens of thousands of acres of surrounding National Forest. Access for private and commercial aircraft is less than 10 minutes from the property’s front gate via Telluride Regional Airport. Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$59,000,000

- 104 -


Ultimate Sporting Fly-In Community Idaho, USA This fly-in, fly-out community can be found among the rugged mountains and the Palisades Reservoir in Idaho. Extremely unique in its design – likely the most majestic, airport-based community in the world – The Refuge is a private community within the Alpine Airpark, a spectacular and user-friendly airport with inexpensive fuel and no landing fees. The runway, at 5,664’ elevation, is 6,000 Ft. long and is situated in a convenient east-west orientation – ideal for the prevailing winds. From the 65 acres available at an average of 2+ acres per lot, these home and hangar locations represent a recreational-rich opportunity.

Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

Price Upon Request - 105 -


PROPERT Y

Toro Canyon Park Road California, USA This modern masterpiece by Los Angeles architect Barbara Bestor offers unparalleled views of ocean, islands and mountains in a completely private setting on 160 acres of unspoiled wilderness. Newly constructed and designed for entertaining and relaxation, with custom glass walls that slide away to bring the outdoors in. The centre of the home is a loft-like space, anchored by an open kitchen. On one side, a glass door retracts to reveal a panoramic view of the Santa Barbara coastline, leading into a lush courtyard with fireplace. Inside, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an en-suite master bedroom, two additional bedrooms, media room, powder room, and yoga room with private garden. A separate guest house sleeps up to four. Dubai Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

Price Upon Request - 104 -


Exceptional Location in Greenwich Greenwich, USA Beautiful Georgian estate amid 2.3 private and park-like acres. Exquisite detailing with the finest custom craftsmanship. This home features state-of-the-art technology and grandly scaled interior spaces. Access to a 3,000 Sq.Ft. blue stone terrace embraced by breathtaking, professionally designed landscaping and walled garden with heated pool. A truly magnificent and private estate.

Dubai Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$9,475,000

Grand Estate in Premiere Location Greenwich, USA This timeless stone manor is set on 3 acres of manicured property in a prime location in Greenwich, Connecticut. The home features an extraordinary master suite and masterfully crafted guest and family accommodations. The Bilottadesigned kitchen opens to a beautiful family room and office space. Generously scaled entertaining rooms open to terracing and seasonal outdoor area with pool and cabana. Amenities include wine cellar, home spa, fitness facility and home theatre. Dubai Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$16,250,000

- 105 -


LIFE LESSONS

WHAT I KNOW NOW Hassan El Houry

CEO of National Aviation Services My journey into aviation began with a lot of hard work and a bit of luck. ,WZDVGLÌ&#x2021;FXOWIRUSHRSOHWRWDNHPH VHULRXVO\DW¿UVW±,ZDV\HDUV ROGSHUKDSVRQHRIWKH\RXQJHVW CEOs in our industry, and with no DYLDWLRQH[SHULHQFHZKHQ,¿UVWWRRN WKHUHLQV,VHOHFWHGDVSHFWDFXODU WHDPDURXQGPHZRUNHGKDUGHU WKDQDQ\RQHHOVH,NQRZLPPHUVHG P\VHOILQWKHLQGXVWU\DQGPDGH VRPHUHDOO\WRXJKGHFLVLRQV )RUWXQDWHO\,WKLQN,KDYHRYHUFRPH this challenge. ,QEXVLQHVVVXFFHVVIXOSHRSOH DUHDPELWLRXVIRFXVHGGULYHQ organised and savvy. They work hard DQGGLOLJHQWO\WKH\VSHQGTXDOLW\ WLPHZLWKIDPLO\DQGIULHQGVDQG LQYHVWLQWKHLUPHQWDODQGSK\VLFDO health. I also believe in constantly setting challenging goals, and so in P\V,WROGP\VHOI,ZRXOGOLNHWR EHD&(2EHIRUH,WXUQHG :KHQLWFRPHVWRLQVSLUDWLRQPDQ\ SHRSOHLQVSLUHPHZLWKYDULRXV facets of their lives but there isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t RQHSHUVRQZKRLQVSLUHVPHLQD FRPSUHKHQVLYHVHQVH,DPVHOI PRWLYDWHGZKLFK,IHHOLVYHU\ LPSRUWDQWDQG,KDYHQRW\HWPHW VRPHRQHZKR,ZRXOGOLNHWRHPERG\ LQDOODVSHFWVRIWKHLUOLIH ,I,FRXOGJLYHP\\RXQJHUVHOIRQH SLHFHRIDGYLFHLWZRXOGEHWRDLP high and do not ever let anyone WHOO\RXVRPHWKLQJLVLPSRVVLEOH I have a natural bias to action, but ,KDYHOHDUQHGRYHUWLPHWREH PRUHGHOLEHUDWHLQP\DFWLRQVDQG UHDFWLRQV,WFRXQWVWRDFWTXLFNO\ EXWLWLVEHWWHUWRWKLQNVHYHUDOVWHSV ahead before taking action.

- 96 -


Discover Luxury

The largest selection of genuine 19th century French antiques in the region, 19th Century Antiques includes rare furniture, bronzes, paintings, clock sets, and vases of exceptional quality and taste.

JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS, BOULEVARD | DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 3887000 FAX: +971 4 3887111 | WWW.19CENTURYANTIQUES.COM


Profile for Hot Media

AIR NasJet Dec'14  

Inflight magazine for private jet passengers in the Middle East

AIR NasJet Dec'14  

Inflight magazine for private jet passengers in the Middle East

Profile for hotmedia
Advertisement

Recommendations could not be loaded

Recommendations could not be loaded

Recommendations could not be loaded

Recommendations could not be loaded