French Twist

Mathieu Viannay arrives on Dubai’s shores with Rue Royale: a bold concept of traditional French fare, masterfully tailored to a UAE audience

WORDS : CHRIS UJMA

The Pointe, a little dining and entertainment distinct that sits pretty on The Palm Jumeirah, is a microcosm of the culinary options found across Dubai: from fast food choices through to refined cuisine.

Still, it was something of a coup when Rue Royale, helmed by acclaimed chef Mathieu Viannay, was announced as part of The Pointe’s opening lineup – and to understand why, a little European history is required.

Back in 2008, Viannay – now holder of the ‘Meilleur Ouvrier De France’ (the nation’s highest creative honour) – acquired the former glory known as La Mère Brazier. Not short on sentiment, he deems it “A moment of destiny”.

The Lyon-based bistro dates back to 1921, and was founded by Eugénie Brazier, herself a titan of the culinary world: Brazier was the first lady to win three Michelin stars and, in the restaurant’s heyday, her self-titled eatery was the place to dine. By 2008, though, it had become a “tired” (frankly, dilapidated) version of its former self. “When I first visited the restaurant it was old and broken but it had an enduring spirit, and soul, so I decided ‘Let’s go; let’s acquire it,’” Viannay recalls.

Settling ownership matters with the department of Trade and Commerce in Lyon, he went to work and, to get to the point, turned Mere Brazier into a two Michelin Star-experience with a stellar reputation for sublime renditions of traditional French fare.

The Pointe, conversely, is the exact opposite: history in the making, and place where Viannay was tempted to lay the foundations of a new dining concept. “In Lyon I was building on storied heritage, whereas the restaurant in Dubai is a different prospect entirely,” he buzzes. “That is why Rue Royale is not called ‘La Mère Brazier Dubai.’

There is a new story to be told.” There are subtle links, though. Rue Royale is the street on which La Mère Brazier is located. The décor, too, draws inspiration from the bistro concept, and Viannay brought some of the design touches with him. The aesthetic of the entryway, the glass façade to the kitchen and the silk fabric – which graces details of the dining area – were all imported (literally, or stylistically) from Lyon. He calls it “A touch of France with design notes from Dubai”.

Still, there should be no confusion that Rue Royale seeks to copy the French icon. (The menu is not the same, for starters). “I live in Lyon, and have cultivated La Mere Brazier as two Michelin-star cuisine, with 35 people crafting cuisine to delight only 45 covers – it’s a very special concept

that cannot be replicated,” Viannay notes. “This concept is ‘prêt-à-porter’ to La Mère Brazier’s ‘haute couture.’”

Rue Royale is pretty much a whole new wardrobe. It’s decidedly ‘sans vin’: alcohol-free, with region-friendly modifications to interpretations of French culinary staples. “I accepted the challenge to impart my ideas as some families here – Emirati in particular – want to eat exceptional fine dining in an environment that conforms to their cultural dining preferences,” he enthuses. “We have to respect culture and because we are in the UAE, I thought it was an exciting to try and develop a menu this way.”

While being fine dining, Rue Royale is for a different palate; “Inspirational French cuisine with signature dishes” such as Pate en Croute (of farm chicken breast, veal, duck liver foie gras and sweet bread); Pain de Brochet (pike fish from the River Quiberon, in Hormandine sauce); Farm Chicken Fricasse de Volaille (in creamy sauce, accompanied by pilaf rice). This is real French bistro, sensitively done.

Even for an awarded master such as Viannay, circumventing non-halal ingredients was an all-consuming adventure. There is no ‘Big Book of Alternatives’ for him to turn to for answers; Viannay had to write it. “For months I put a lot of thought into this chemistry,” he admits.

For instance, his Beef Filet Rossini with truffle sauce traditionally incorporates red wine and cognac. The chef worked on a replacement sauce that combines beetroot jus, balsamic vinegar and cranberry jus. Another signature dish on the menu is Pain de Brochet, ordinarily made with a sauce of pastis or Absinthe, but for which Viannay crafted a jus of fennel, reduced with anise – a sauce that deliciously mimics the original.

“In each instance the taste is exquisitely balanced, while being sensitive to local cultural requirements,” he beams. “Guests will be delightfully surprised by the unexpected versions of the dishes. I debuted the first halal version of Pate en Croute over a decade ago, and it was a huge success; the absence of certain non-conforming ingredients is counterbalanced by a blend of tastes that can rival the original.”

He admits that there is “Not much” in the way of relevant produce from Dubai to help, and most ingredients are flown in fresh from France (as

well as the likes of Australia, Africa and New Zealand). “I did want to incorporate some touches from the region – the Hot French Madeleine dessert, for instance, is accompanied by camel’s milk ice cream,” he smiles.

Experience was ‘imported’ too, with staff – from the restaurant manager and operations manager, through to the entire kitchen complement – becoming acquainted with Viannay’s methods by spending time in Lyon. The chefs are French, they know French cuisine, and each are accomplished in their role.

“It’s an exceptional location,” says a contemplative Viannay, gazing across his terrace to the waters of The Palm that shimmer beyond. ”The area has an intimate feel; it’s a well-realised vision by Nakheel,” he adds. “I feel that our restaurant team and the aura of Rue Royale takes care of exceptional on the ‘inside’, and The Pointe – with its breathtaking views – takes care of the grandeur on the ‘outside’.”