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IS SU E THIRT Y FI V E | A PR IL

2014


CONTENTS / FEATURES

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Business Development Director David Wade GDYLG#KRWPHGLDSXEOLVKLQJFRP Editor Tracey Scott WUDFH\#KRWPHGLDSXEOLVKLQJFRP Deputy Editor Richard Jenkins ULFKDUG#KRWPHGLDSXEOLVKLQJFRP Features Editor Lara Brunt ODUD#KRWPHGLDSXEOLVKLQJFRP Senior Designer Adam Sneade Designer Andy Knappett

Fifty Two

Illustrator Vanessa Arnaud

The 90s icon on why her comeback isn’t a comeback.

Production Manager Chalitha Fernando

Fifty Eight

Advertisement Manager Rawan Chehab UDZDQ#KRWPHGLDSXEOLVKLQJFRP

2QHRI%ULWDLQ¶V¿QHVWDFWLQJ exports opens up.

Winona Ryder

Sir Ben Kingsley

Advertisement Manager Sukaina Hussein VXNDLQD#KRWPHGLDSXEOLVKLQJFRP -5-


CONTENTS / REGUL ARS Sixteen

Forty Eight

Radar

Art & Design

Henri Matisse’s later works, and a whole lot of scents.

London pop-artist Ben Turnbull talks about The 'HDWKRI$PHULFD

Twenty Eight

Sixty Eight

Timepieces

Motoring

H. Moser & Cie breaks cover on the all black Perpetual Calendar.

The most delectable cars displayed at this year’s Geneva Motor Show.

Thirty Seven

Seventy Two

Interiors

Gastronomy

$,5WDNHVDVHDWFRXUWHV\ RI+DQV-:HJQHU

Superchef Heinz Beck tells $,5DERXWKLVQHZYHQWXUH on Dubai’s Palm Jumeirah.

Forty Two

Jewellery

Seventy Six

Travel The most coveted pieces from Sotheby’s New York’s IRUWKFRPLQJ0DJQL¿FHQW Jewels sale.

/X[XU\ORGJHVLQ1HZ Zealand.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media 3XEOLVKLQJLVVWULFWO\SURKLELWHG$OOSULFHV mentioned are correct at time of press EXWPD\FKDQJH+270HGLD3XEOLVKLQJ does not accept liability for omissions or HUURUVLQ$,5

-6-


m a k i n g h i s t o r y, o n e g u e s t a t a t i m e )RUÀYHGHFDGHV,QWHU&RQWLQHQWDO*HQqYHKDVZHOFRPHGVFLRQVRI UR\DOW\FDSWDLQVRI LQGXVWU\ DQGLQWHUQDWLRQDOO\UHQRZQHGLFRQVRIIHULQJWKHPGLVFUHHWDQGOX[XULRXVVSDFHVWREUHDWKHOLIHLQWRWKHLUEHOLHIV 7KH5HVLGHQFHVGHVLJQHGE\WKHJOREDOO\DFFODLPHG7RQ\&KLDUHDVHOHFWLRQRI WKUHHVWDWHO\DFFRPPRGDWLRQV LQVSLUHGE\WKHRSXOHQWSDODFHVRI WKHSDVWDQGGHGLFDWHGWRWKHOHDGHUVRI WRPRUURZ l i v e t h e e s s e n c e o f l u x u r y at g e n e va’ s m o s t p r e s t i g i o u s a d d r e s s and discover a place where history meets its future. R E S E RVAT I O N S

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GAMA AVIATION

April 2014

WELCOME ONBOARD

I’m delighted to welcome you to the April HGLWLRQRI$,5*DPDœVLQÀLJKWPDJD]LQH I hope you’ll enjoy learning more about our global business aviation group and the services we provide as you browse through the pages. Gama is one of the world’s largest business jet operators – we have nearly 80 business jets operating all around the globe. Established in the United Kingdom in 1983, we’ve grown to have bases throughout the Middle East, Europe and North and South America as well as operating licences issued by the UAE, UK, US and Bermudan Authorities. In addition to providing aircraft management and charter services, the group also provides aircraft maintenance, avionics design and installation, aviation software, aircraft cleaning and leasing services to a wide range of clients. Gama’s expansion in the Middle East continues to progress well; our regional ÀHHWKDVJURZQVLJQL¿FDQWO\RYHUWKHSDVW 12 months with the arrival of a number of aircraft, along with the continued development of our regional footprint and services. This LQFOXGHVWKHRSHQLQJRIRXU-HGGDKṘFHDQG Abu Dhabi base. Also, Gama is now operating the only business aviation FBO at Sharjah International Airport, which is proving to be a very popular facility for Sharjah and the Northern Emirates, as well as a practical alternative to Dubai International Airport. Business aviation remains one of the best tools available to corporations and individuals who want to make time for themselves and it’s been pleasing to see a continued resurgence LQFKDUWHUÀLJKWV¹WKHZRUOGLVWUDYHOOLQJIRU business again and developing much needed revenue for the global economy. Thank you for choosing Gama – welcome onboard. Richard Lineveldt General Manager Gama Aviation

Contact details: charter.mena@gamaaviation.com gamaaviation.com -9-


GAMA AVIATION NEWS Gama Aviation FZE on track with its brand new Sharjah International FBO Business aviation traffic grows 70%

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ama Aviation FZE continues to enjoy strong growth at their MENA home base, Sharjah International Airport, reporting a 70% increase in the number of business aviation movements in 2013 compared with 2012. The regional arm of the global business aviation services company has been instrumental in expanding

ramp access,� commented Richard Lineveldt, General Manager MENA IRU*DPD$YLDWLRQ³7KHEHQH¿WV of using Sharjah are increasing our FBO’s popularity by the day and clients are attracted by our friendly and polished service, dedicated business jet parking and hangar space as well as the fact that there are no slot restrictions in place for the airport which operates 24/7 - all EHLQJR̆HUHGDWFRPSHWLWLYHUDWHV´

the airport’s activity in business aviation and is on schedule to unveil its brand new dedicated FBO Terminal this year. During the 2nd quarter it hopes to have completed the new passenger and crew lounges – which have been designed and will EHÂżQLVKHGWRDYHU\KLJKVWDQGDUG in line with the requirements of discerning Middle Eastern clientele. “Our aim is to build on the already VLJQLÂżFDQWSURJUHVVPDGHGXULQJWKH ÂżUVWWZR\HDUVRIRSHUDWLQJWKH)%2 by further developing the facilities RQR̆HUWRRXUFOLHQWV:HKDYHKDG encouraging feedback which we have used to incorporate into the plans IRUWKHQHZIDFLOLW\:HDUHYHU\ excited to unveil the end product, especially considering the increased ḢFLHQFLHVLWZLOOOHQGWRRXU)%2 WHDPDORQJZLWKKXJHEHQHÂżWV for crew members, including rest DUHDVEULHÂżQJVSDFHDQGFRQYHQLHQW

Gama Aviation and Sharjah International Airport are poised to handle a considerable amount RIDGGLWLRQDOWUḊFZKHQ'XEDL International’s extensive runway works commence from May 1 this year. “A number of business jets have already committed to move over to Sharjah during that period and are working with industry partners and airport stakeholders to prepare for the increased demand,â€? says /LQHYHOGWÂł:HZDQWWKHLQGXVWU\WR know that we are ready to support IHOORZRSHUDWRUVDQGĂ€LJKWVXSSRUW agencies and will keep engaging with them to ensure that we cater to their needsâ€? The company has also rolled out a staggered hiring strategy since the start of 2014 in order to ensure it has the capacity in May to maintain its excellent service levels. The VWḊQJOHYHOVDWWKH6KDUMDK)%2 - 10 -

DUHSODQQHGWRH̆HFWLYHO\GRXEOH by May 2014. Gama Aviation is also working with the airport to secure additional, dedicated, ground support equipment. It is already proud of its 30-minute turnaround times and the nature of Sharjah operations - where clients are picked up by executive car directly from the aircraft, so that just six minutes after landing they can be on their way. Sharjah International is a well located and stress-free gateway to Dubai and the Northern Emirates with travel time quoted as taking 25 minutes to Dubai International Financial Centre, or 30 minutes to Ras Al Khaimah “After considerable investment in improving the facilities for business jets at Sharjah International; RXU)%2VHUYLFHR̆HULQJQRZ includes maintenance, gourmet catering, refrigerated storage units, premium lounges and a Royal Majlis, fast fuelling capabilities, an onsite business hotel and a new international newspaper service which will be available from the 1st of March. Ground transportation is also important and we work closely with a reputable luxury transport supplier to provide limousines for our visiting VIP passengers.â€? added Gama Aviation’s MENA Commercial Manager Oliver Hewson. Gama Aviation took over the responsibility for all business aviation handling at Sharjah International Airport in early 2012 in a partnership with Sharjah Airport Authority, but the company has been present in Sharjah as a charter operator since 2006. Gama Aviation’s expansion at Sharjah International builds on its United Arab Emirates General Civil Aviation Authority approval of its CAR Part 145 Aircraft Maintenance Approval. The Sharjah facility is large enough for Boeing BBJ and Airbus ACJ aircraft, both of which are already in the company’s PDQDJHGĂ€HHWDQGLWLVVHFXULQJ more hangar space at the airport.


WITH US TIME IS ON YOUR SIDE From the moment you touch down at Gama’s Sharjah FBO you’ll know that time is working for you. On average, six minutes after you land you’ll be in your car and on your way. Only 10 minutes from Sharjah itself and a mere 20 minutes (or less*) from Dubai means you’ll be productive before others will have even picked up their bags. Gama Aviation is the exclusive FBO provider at Sharjah, call us for all passenger services and aircraft handling on +971 6557 0177, email fbo.shj@gamaaviation.com or visit www.gamaaviation.com for more information *Helicopter transfers

available

• Aircraft & passenger arrival and departure services • Customs & Immigration preclearance services • Private Majlis and First Class lounges • Chauffeur and crew transport options available • Flight Planning Services • Hangar, Fuelling, Aircraft Parking & Maintenance services • Hotels at preferential rates • Car ramp access

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GAMA AVIATION NEWS

Gama Aviation awarded Swiss AOC

Gama Aviation adds a Hawker 800XP to its Middle East charter fleet Gama Aviation, the global business aviation services provider today announced a further expansion of its 8$(EDVHGFKDUWHUĂ€HHWZLWKWKHDGGLWLRQRID+DZNHU 800XP to its Sharjah regional headquarters. 7KH+DZNHU;3LVDPLGVL]HMHZLWKUDQJHDQG comfort ideal for business use. Few aircraft can match the Hawker 800XP’s combination of comfort, cabin VL]HVSHHGDQGYDOXH :LWKDQLPSUHVVLYHUDQJHFDSDELOLW\IRULWVFODVV Gama’s Hawker 800XP easily links the UAE with destinations such as Turkey, India and Egypt at a cruising speed of Mach 0.75. The Hawker’s maximum speed is 505MPH. :LWKOX[XULRXVVHDWLQJIRUXSWRSDVVHQJHUV LWLVFRQÂżJXUHGWRDOORZIRUDJURXSRIWUDYHOOHUVWR ZRUNRUKROGDQLQĂ€LJKWFRQIHUHQFHKDYHDQLQĂ€LJKW meal or even modify the rear cabin into a rest area. Productivity is assured through the aircraft’s SatCom phone capability whilst leisure passengers can enjoy DQLQĂ€LJKWHQWHUWDLQPHQWV\VWHPWKDWLQFOXGHVD79 DVD and CD players. Gama Aviation’s Middle Eastern main operating base at Sharjah International is host to a number of other corporate jets, including a Gulfstream G650, Challenger 604, Global Express XRS and an Airbus A318(CJ) Elite. Gama Aviation’s large global charter Ă€HHWHQVXUHVWKDWLWVFOLHQWVDUHDEOHWREHQHÂżWIURP UHOLDEOHḢFLHQWDQGEHVSRNHĂ€LJKWRSHUDWLRQV “The addition of the Hawker 800XP to our charter Ă€HHWLQWKHUHJLRQHQDEOHV*DPD$YLDWLRQWRHQVXUH WKDWRXU0LGGOH(DVWHUQFXVWRPHUVFRQWLQXHWREHQHÂżW from a selection of business jet types. The Hawker 800XP complements our charter services perfectly and we anticipate strong demand considering the lack RIPLGVL]HMHWVDYDLODEOHIRUFKDUWHUIURPWKH8$(Âł said Oliver Hewson, Commercial Manager Gama Aviation.

Gama Aviation, the global aviation services company, has been awarded a Swiss $LU2SHUDWRU&HUWL¿FDWH (AOC) by the Swiss Federal 2̇FHRI&LYLO$YLDWLRQ (FOCA). The move clears the way for the company’s *HQHYDEDVHGWHDPWRR̆HU third party charters out of 6ZLW]HUODQGZLWKLWVRZQ EXVLQHVVMHWV7KH¿UVW Swiss-registered aircraft is D*XOIVWUHDP9 FRQ¿JXUHG with 16 seats) which has moved over from Gama $YLDWLRQœVPDQDJHGÀHHW LQWKH8.:LWKD nm range it is available for charter worldwide. The Gulfstream V joins an eight seat Learjet 45 on Gama Aviation’s UK AOC which is already being marketed out of 6ZLW]HUODQGDQGZLWK the ski season now

Aviation has expanded its operations team. Rene Balatti has joined as Operations Assistant based out of Geneva. Rene has eight years’ experience in business aviation and will work alongside Operations Manager Laura Malisani and the team. Gama Aviation LQDXJXUDWHGLWVṘFHDW Geneva Airport’s executive terminal in November 2012 headed by Captain Hamish Ross, who also serves as a line pilot with Gama on the Challenger 604 and 605. Since that time, the company has assisted arranging charters on Gama Aviation aircraft, but from 6ZLW]HUODQGLWKDVVHUYHG as a charter brokerage until now. “This is an excellent time

underway the eight-seat jet has been a regular visitor to Geneva. The intention is to add more aircraft to the managed ÀHHWRXWRI6ZLW]HUODQG complementing existing Gama Aviation activity in Europe, Russia and the Middle East, with a focus on attracting new customers. Coinciding with the award of this AOC Gama

to secure our AOC,â€? said Hamish. “There is strong economic development LQ6ZLW]HUODQGZLWK the emerging high tech LQGXVWULHVÂżQDQFHDQG private banking sectors and strengthened interest for corporate travel.â€? Gama Aviation will promote its expansion in 6ZLW]HUODQGDW(%$&( Geneva, from May 20-22, 2014.

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• Saudi Arabia: Alissa Automotive, Tel: 92002 7744, Alhamrani United Co., Tel: +966 2 6696690 • Dubai & Northern Emirates: Arabian Automobiles, Tel: +971 4 2952222 • Abu Dhabi & Al Ain: Al Masaood Automobiles, Tel: +971 2 6811118 • Kuwait: Abdulmohsen Abdulaziz Al Babtain Co., Tel: +965 1804888 • Oman: Suhail Bahwan Automobiles, Tel: +968 24560111 • Qatar: Saleh Al Hamad Al Mana Co., Tel: +974 4 4283333 • Bahrain: Y.K. Almoayyed & Sons BSC(C), Tel: +973 1 7732732 • Lebanon: Rasamny – Younis Motor Co. S.A.L. – RYMCO, Beirut, Tel:+9611 273333 • Jordan: Bustami & Saheb Trading Co.L.T.D., Amman, Tel: +962 6 5532456


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RADAR

Painting

with scissors - 16 -


Henri Matisse (1869 -1964), Large Composition with Masks 1953. National Gallery of Art, Washington; Ailsa Mellon Bruce Fund 1973.17.1. Digital Image: © National Gallery of Art, Washington. Artwork: © Succession Henri Matisse/DACS 2014.

The final chapter in Henri Matisse’s career takes centre stage at Tate Modern this month for the Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs exhibition. The six-month-long showcase represents a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the modern master’s exploration of ‘carving into colour’ – a period in the late sixties which saw the French painter, due to ill health, swap painting for cutting into painted paper with scissors. The final result is a dazzling array of 120 eye-popping colour cutouts, which at the time were revolutionary in the art world. Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs takes place April 17 to September 7. tate.org.uk

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RADAR

1.

MAKING SCENTS The world’s leading perfumers will gather in Abu Dhabi this month for the Masters of Fragrances exhibition, a showcase of one-of-a-kind, worldexclusive perfumes. AIR spritzes its favourite five fragrances‌

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eople with a penchant for perfume are in for a scented – downright exclusive – treat this month when the inaugural Masters of Fragrances exhibition opens at Manarat Al Saadiyat Gallery in Abu Dhabi. Dramatically displayed in a contemporary gallery setting, each

of the 26 coveted perfumes – of which only one bottle is available to purchase in most cases – is representative of the painstaking work that goes into creating such DVFHQW3RSR̆WKHOLGDQG\RXœOO quickly discover how perfumers use their materials in much the same way as painters use their colours or musicians use their notes: to serious, VZHHWVPHOOLQJD̆HFW So fantastical are the scents – and - 18 -

their packaging; think handblown Baccarat glass bottles, bezel set diamond embellishment and rock crystal stands – many will leave you feeling heady. And while the opening night on $SULOLVDQLQYLWDWLRQRQO\D̆DLU it will be transported from Saadiyat Island to Abu Dhabi International Airport Terminal 1 the following day where it will reside until June 12. ,WœVWLPHWRJHW\RXUVFHQWRQG1.


1. Guerlain: Le Secret De La Reine With over 180 years experience, IUDJUDQFHFUHDWLRQVDQG¿YH generations of perfume creators WRLWVQDPHLWœVOLWWOHVXUSULVHWKDW this limited edition fragrance will leave you feeling light headed. The bee-inspired bottle – encrusted with over 14 carats of diamonds mounted on platinum – can be removed and worn as a brooch or pendant. 2. Bulgari: Bulgari - Opera Prima This unique fragrance hints at the IDVKLRQODEHOœVKHULWDJH3RSR̆WKH lid and let a swirl of cedrat, lemon and orange blossom transport you to the Mediterranean and back again. Like the scent, the amphore-inspired bottle is beautiful – created by Italian Murano glassmaker Venini and cloaked in 250 carats of citrine, 30 carats of diamonds and 4 carats of amethyst.

2.

3.

3. Armani PrivÊ: Pure Gold Edition ,WœVEHHQ\HDUVVLQFH*LRUJLR Armani launched its haute couture fragrance line and this latest creation – limited to one piece – captures the essence of the label perfectly. The case, meanwhile, is carved out of solid 18-carat gold. 4. Penhaligon’s of London: As Sawira For its latest creation, the English perfumer has taken inspiration from commodity trading in the 19th FHQWXU\7KLQNVD̆URQEHUJDPRW and rare davana for the head notes; and oud, vanilla, myrrh and musk for the base. The scent is contained in a hand-cut crystal bottle.

5.

5. Thierry Mugler: Alien Prestigious Collector Adorned with an 18-carat gold and amethyst necklace, this exclusive SHUIXPH WKHUHœVRQO\RQHDYDLODEOH to buy) comes supersized – 1,000ml. A quick spritz from its faceted bottle unleashes an explosion of seductive notes on the skin. - 19 -

4.


RADAR

‘ V A N D A L’ SCANDAL Sale by stealth or safeguarding important works of street art? A controversial auction of Banksy pieces takes place this month, writes Lara Brunt

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CRITIQUE

Film Labor Day Dir: Jason Reitman $GHSUHVVHGVLQJOHPRWKHUDQGKHU young son pick up a hitchhiker, who becomes a strange part of the family â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a man wanted by the police. AT BEST: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Labor Day has craft, care and sensitive performances from Kate Winslet and Josh Brolin.â&#x20AC;? The Telegraph AT WORST: â&#x20AC;&#x153;My goodwill drowned while trying to swallow this treacly cocktail of romantic swill.â&#x20AC;? Rolling Stone

Noah

Yves Saint Laurent

Dir: Darren Aronofsky 7KH%LEOLFDO1RDKVXĚ&#x2020;HUVYLVLRQV of an apocalyptic deluge and takes measures to protect his family from WKHFRPLQJĂ&#x20AC;RRG$FODVVLFVWRU\ retold with Russell Crowe in the lead role.&DQ$URQRIVN\SXOORĚ&#x2020;D blockbuster based on the bible? AT BEST: â&#x20AC;&#x153;$ continually ambitious undertaking that swings for the fences and then some.â&#x20AC;? IGN AT WORST: â&#x20AC;&#x153;It does make for intense DQGGLĚ&#x2021;FXOWYLHZLQJ.â&#x20AC;? Empire

Dir: Jalil Lespert $IDLWKIXOELRJUDSK\RIWKH)UHQFK designer from the start of his career in 1958 when he met the man who would change his life â&#x20AC;&#x201C; lover and business partner Pierre Berge. AT BEST: Âł&RQÂżUPLQJWKHDSSDUHQWO\ boundless talent of Pierre Niney, who doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t play Saint Laurent so much as embody him.â&#x20AC;? Hollywood Reporter AT WORST:Âł$GLVDSSRLQWLQJO\E\ the-numbers treatment.â&#x20AC;? Variety

Fading Gigolo Dir: John Turturro Fioravante decides to become a professional Don Juan as a way of making money to help his cashstrapped friend, Murray. With Murray acting as his â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;managerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, the

SDLUTXLFNO\ÂżQGWKHPVHOYHVFDXJKW up in the crosscurrents of love and money. AT BEST: â&#x20AC;&#x153;John Turturro brings sensitivity and intelligence to a subject that could have gone terribly awry in this wryly observant - 22 -

dramedy.â&#x20AC;? Variety â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fading Gigolo is mostly DQLQRĚ&#x2020;HQVLYHWULĂ&#x20AC;HVOLJKWO\XQGRQH by its lack of focus and mishmash of genres that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite come together.â&#x20AC;? The Playlist AT WORST:


CRITIQUE

Art In this year 2014, the 100th anniversary of the start of WWI, we are allowed to take an introspective stance on how the catastrophic loss RIOLIHFDPHWREHDQGZKDWHĚ&#x2020;HFWLW had on the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s psyche ever after. Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s National Portrait Galleryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Great War in Portraits gives us a view rarely seen from the front line â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that of the art world. With portraits RIOHDGLQJÂżJXUHVLQ::,KLVWRU\ such as Baron von Richthofen, Mata Hari and Billie Nevill â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the man ZKRÂżUVWERRWHGDIRRWEDOODFURVV1R 0DQÂśV/DQGWRNLFNRĚ&#x2020;WKDWIDPRXV Christmas-time kickabout. The Telegraphâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Alastair Smart says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;As a medium, portraiture brings

them back to life in a way little else can, helping make this show as vivid and vital a commemoration RIWKHFRQĂ&#x20AC;LFWDVDQ\ZHÂśOOVHHWKLV year.â&#x20AC;? The Guardianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jonathan Jones describes the works as â&#x20AC;&#x153;very poignantâ&#x20AC;?, adding: â&#x20AC;&#x153;It redeems the dead from the miasma of horror that has engulfed this war in modern memory. They were people, not statistics, and each has a story to tell.â&#x20AC;? Henry Tonksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; unnamed pastel portraits may not name the soldiers, but their stories are etched indelibly across their faces. In picturesque Essen, Germany, an exhibition of unique historical interest is running. Karl Lagerfeld: Parallel Contrasts, Photography â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Books â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Fashion puts the Chanel

and Fendi designer at the centre of his own world, labelled â&#x20AC;&#x153;more of a snapshot than a retrospectiveâ&#x20AC;?. Melissa Drier of Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wear Daily comments: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clear Lagerfeld borrows motifs and themes from painting for his fashion photography. There are multiple series for Fendi, including a 1988 homage to Ludwig Feuerback as well as an expressionistic homage to Lyonel Feininger done for British Vogue.â&#x20AC;? Back in London, Charles Saatchi has a track record of supporting up-and-coming artists who go on to great things â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Damien Hirst and Sarah Lucas spring readily to mind. For the latest exhibition at Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Saatchi gallery, the collector has turned his sights to Africa and - 24 -

Latin America. Featuring works from Rafael GĂłmezbarros, Antonio Malta Campos and other notable artists, Pangaea: New Art from Africa and Latin America displays â&#x20AC;&#x153;stunningly colourful paintingsâ&#x20AC;Ś and creepy-crawly sculpturesâ&#x20AC;?, according to Time Out. Running from April 2 until the end of August, this exhibition will broaden anyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s horizons. This year is the year that Italian culture gains even wider recognition. New Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation gets in on the act with Italian Futurism, 1909-1944: Reconstructing the Universe. Roberta Smith of the New York Times asks: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Was any avowedly modern art movement as obnoxious and noisily contradictory as Italian Futurism?â&#x20AC;? Italian )XWXULVPÂąZKLOHEXUQLQJÂżHUFHO\ DQGEULHĂ&#x20AC;\ÂąFRPSULVHGDOODVSHFWV of expression; from painting to sculpture to theatre, ceramics and architecture. Smith says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Futurism cannot be denied. It had a liberating HĚ&#x2020;HFWRQPDQ\PHGLXPVOD\LQJ the groundwork for much what we view as advanced poetry, music, performance art and graphic design, while also spreading into popular culture.â&#x20AC;? The works will be in display until September 1.


Books

The Madness of July is BBC Radio SUHVHQWHU-DPHV1DXJKWLHÂśVÂżUVW novel. It portrays a political crisis involving an American spy, Will Flemyng. The selling points of the ERRNDUHWZRIROGÂżUVWO\1DXJKWLHLV uniquely placed to deliver a knowing, in-depth analysis of many of these scenes. In fact, the complicated plot was even suggested to him by one of his journalistic contacts, a former British spy. Secondly, the actual politics of the book take something of a back seat to the machinations of the plot. Flemyngâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own political leanings are never even revealed. David Robinson of The Scotsman has a personal relationship with the author, and says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;If a lot of the conversations in the novel are heavily elliptical, careful not to UHYHDOWRRPXFKWKDWUHĂ&#x20AC;HFWVWKH world he found himself in. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tuning into how politicians talk, WRWKHZD\WKH\ÂżVKIRULQIRUPDWLRQ to their loaded questions, seeing how they feel each other out, is

important. Because the most interesting politicians all have a good ear, they can pick up on things, like a boxer noticing an opening or a chess player seeing something happening on the board. And that kind of conversation is one of the things that interests me about politics.â&#x20AC;? Emma Donoghueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2010 novel Room took her to mainstream success, and since then sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been working in a new and totally GLĚ&#x2020;HUHQWGLUHFWLRQ)URJ0XVLFLVVHW in a world as far away from Room as possible â&#x20AC;&#x201C; San Francisco, 1876. A record-breaking heatwave and smallpox epidemic is ravaging the city when a woman named Jenny Bonnet is shot dead through a railroad saloon window. A literary crime whodunit with a piercing eye for historic detail, Kirkus Reviews was impressed by Donoghueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attention, saying: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Donoghueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vivid rendering of Gilded Age San Francisco is notable for her - 25 -

atmospheric use of popular songs and slang in Blancheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s native French, but the bookâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s emotional punch comes from its portrait of a woman growing into self-respect as she takes responsibility for the infant life sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s created.â&#x20AC;? Jack Kerouacâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legacy is so unimpeachable that nothing could be unearthed to tarnish it. Lewis Jones of The Spectator, however, argues that a recently discovered work, The Haunted Life: The Lost Novella, might do just that. Lost in 1944 when Kerouac was just 22, the manuscript was sold by Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in 2002 and published this year. Billed as a novella, but acting PRUHDNLQWRWKHÂżUVWSDUWRIDSURMHFWHG novel, The Haunted Life is a coming-ofage story. Jones says that â&#x20AC;&#x153;gaucheness and inexperience mark this early ZRUN´DGGLQJÂł6SHFLDOLVWVZLOOÂżQGWKLV volume invaluable, displaying as it does what Professor Tietchen calls Kerouacâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;literary concerns in their embryonic vestigesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, but the general reader is advised to give it a miss.â&#x20AC;?


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CRITIQUE

Theatre WRXVHHYHU\WULFNLQWKH ERRNWRJHWUHVXOWV´VD\V Marilyn Stasio of Variety. Staged at the Neil Simon Theater on Broadway New <RUNWKHJHQHURXVUXQQLQJ WLPHRIWZRKRXUVDQG PLQXWHVVHHPVKDUG SUHVVHGWRKROGVXFKDORW RIPDWHULDO86$7RGD\¶V Elyssa Gardner says: “After ZDWFKLQJ%U\DQ&UDQVWRQ¶V President Johnson fret DQGFDMROHDQGSOHDGDQG IXPHIRUPRUHWKDQWZR DQGDKDOIKRXUV\RXZLOO DVN\RXUVHOIDJDLQZKR ZRXOGZDQWWKLVMRE",QDQ HDUO\VFHQHRIWKHSOD\KH MXJJOHVSKRQHFDOOVIURP among others, J. Edgar +RRYHUDQGRQHRIWKH)%, GLUHFWRU¶VIDYRULWHWDUJHWV 0DUWLQ/XWKHU.LQJ Jr. After Johnson and .LQJKDYHSOHGJHGWKHLU PXWXDOVXSSRUW DQGD̆HFWLRQWKH Bryan Cranston has the world at ODWWHUDQQRXQFHVWRKLV his feet. In late 2013, the actor ¿QLVKHGSURGXFWLRQRQWKHFULWLFDOO\ FROOHDJXHVWKDWWKHOHDGHU RIWKHIUHHZRUOGLVMXVW acclaimed Breaking Bad, widely µEORZLQJVPRNH¶DWHUPWKH UHFRJQLVHGDVRQHRIWKH¿QHVW UHYHUHQGHPEHOOLVKHVZLWK ZRUNVRIWHOHYLVLRQHYHUSURGXFHG DQHDUWK\ÀRXULVK 7KHVDYY\DFWRUWKHQZRXOGNQRZ ³&UDQVWRQ¶VLPPHQVH WKDWWKHQH[WVWHSLVQ¶WWRZDUGVD SRSXODULW\ZLOOHQVXUHD UHSHDWSHUIRUPDQFHRUHYHQELJ ORQJUXQIRU$OO7KH:D\ EXGJHW+ROO\ZRRG DOWKRXJKWKH ±EXWKRZORQJFDQWKH *RG]LOODUHERRWLVRQWKHZD\ EXW WKHDWUHNHHSKLP"´ the theatre. Cranston takes the /LYHUSRRO¶VWLPHDV meaty role of President Lyndon B. WKH(XURSHDQ&DSLWDORI -RKQVRQGHVSHUDWHWRJHWWKH &XOWXUHPD\IHHOOLNHD &LYLO5LJKWVDFWSDVVHGLQ5REHUW 6FKHQNNDQ¶VVHDULQJSROLWLFDOGUDPD ORQJWLPHDJREXWWKHFLW\ KDVNHSWXSLWVSURPLVH All The Way. ZLWKULFKSHUIRUPDQFHV ³-RKQVRQZDVIDPRXVO\FUXGH and a new Everyman UXGHDQGUXWKOHVV6FKHQNNDQ theatre. Artistic Director D3XOLW]HU3UL]HZLQQHUIRUµ7KH Gemma Bodinetz claims .HQWXFN\&\FOH¶SDFNVDOOWKDW that they “want to create LQWRKLVULFKFKDUDFWHUVWXG\DQG WKHUHQHJDWHVSLULWRI &UDQVWRQHPEUDFHVLWDOOZLWKKLV QRKROGVEDUUHGSHUIRUPDQFH+H¶VD WKHRULJLQDO´DQGVXFK ELJPDQSXWWLQJRQDELJVKRZDVWKH SURFODPDWLRQVDUHQRWWRR ERUQSROLWLFLDQZKRGRHVQ¶WKHVLWDWH wide of the mark, at least - 27 -

in terms of this zesty, yet familiar, SURGXFWLRQRI7ZHOIWK1LJKW7KH *XDUGLDQ¶V0LFKDHO%LOOLQJWRQ VD\VRI6KDNHVSHDUH¶VFODVVLF ³+HUSURGXFWLRQLVDOVRFKDUPLQJ LQWHOOLJHQWDQGIXOORIJRRGWKLQJV ,WVRQHGUDZEDFNLVWKDWLWUXQVFORVH WRWKUHHDQGDKDOIKRXUVZKLFKLV WRRORQJIRU6KDNHVSHDUH¶V,OO\ULDQ IDQWDV\´ ,QDG\VWRSLDQIXWXUHWKHUH DUHQRSULYDWHWRLOHWV7KLVLVWKH VXUUHDOFRQFHSWRI8ULQHWRZQZKRVH VWUHHWVDUHEOLJKWHGE\FKURQLF water shortages. The only way to JRVRWRVSHDNLVWRSD\DIRUWXQH WRXVHDSXEOLF³DPHQLW\´RZQHG E\FRUSRUDWLRQVZKRFDQFKDUJH ZKDWWKH\OLNH,DQ6KXWWOHZRUWK RIWKH)LQDQFLDO7LPHVIRXQGWKH SURGXFWLRQDVNQRZLQJDVLWLV LPDJLQDWLYH³-DPLH/OR\GKDVEHHQ GUDZQHVSHFLDOO\WRVHOIDZDUHSLHFHV RIWKLVNLQG´VD\V6KXWWOHZRUWK³+H KDVDVVHPEOHGD¿QHFDVW)RUWKLV UHOLHIPXFKWKDQNV´


TIMEPIECES

FREDERIC WATRELOT

Christie’s watch specialist reflects on the recent auction in Dubai

I often get asked what the most exciting aspect of my job is as Christie’s watch specialist in the region and it is undoubtedly meeting others who share a passion for watches and with whom I can talk for hours about the merits of one model over another that, to the untrained eye, are strikingly similar. Well, if that’s the best thing then I spent time last month indulging myself while showing off my sale, our second since we re-launched the watch auctions here in Dubai. In addition to meeting many new collectors from the region who came to see our sale for the first time, the auction was also a huge success, realizing more than US$3 million for the 123 lots, exceeding my expectations. Bidding was fast and furious for the top lot of the sale - one of only ten known examples of Patek Philippe’s iconic reference 5971, the bezel decorated with 42 baguettecut emeralds weighing approximately 3.33 carats. I was on the phone in the saleroom on behalf of the successful client who bought it for US$341,000. Almost every lot was sold with the successful buyers predominantly from the Middle East and mostly private collectors. The top lots always catch the headlines but the majority of - 28 -


the estimates were much more affordable and we had a good selection of ladies watches this time around â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whilst the leading one from this group was an emerald and diamond set 18-carat gold Piaget watch which sold for US$149,000, there was also a very simple 18-carat gold automatic wristwatch by Blancpain which sold for US$2,750 and the following lot, also 18-carat gold and also by Blancpain, which made US$2,500. Patek Philippe watches accounted for four of the top ten selling lots and collectors who came to the pre-sale viewing were amazed to see the unused condition of lot 35, a white gold, automatic, worldtime wristwatch with a cloisonnĂŠ enamel dial. The ref. 5131G was still in its original packaging from the factory and had been estimated to sell for over US$120,000. It sold for US$161,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a tribute to the enduring appeal of the brand and its mint condition. The watch worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attention now switches to Geneva for the sale there this month. As Switzerland is the cradle of watchmaking it is always a great trip for me and I shall report back from there next month.

Also at auctionâ&#x20AC;Ś ,QLWVUROHDVWKHRĚ&#x2021;FLDOIHVWLYDOWLPH SDUWQHURIWKH7ULEHFD)LOP)HVWLYDO LQ1HZ<RUN,:&ZLOOWKLVPRQWK DXFWLRQDRQHRIRQHUHLPDJLQHG YHUVLRQRIDQLFRQLFPRGHO7KH 3LORWV:DWFK6SLWÂżUH&KURQRJUDSK (GLWLRQ7ULEHFD)LOP)HVWLYDO 5HI,: IHDWXUHVDVHOI ZLQGLQJPHFKDQLFDOPRYHPHQW ZDWHUUHVLVWDQWWREDUDQG ERDVWLQJDKRXUSRZHUUHVHUYH 0HDQZKLOHLWVGLDOLVGHVLJQHGWR UHĂ&#x20AC;HFWLWVOLQNWRWKHIHVWLYDOWKH %RUGHDX[VXEGLDOVWKHUHWRUHSUHVHQW WKHUHGFDUSHWDQGWKHVWHHOFRORXU XVHGWRHYRNHWKHLGHDRI1HZ<RUN &LW\ 7KHWLPHSLHFHZLOOEHDXFWLRQHG RQ$SULODW$QWLTXRUXPLQ1HZ <RUNZLWKWKHZLQQLQJELGGHUDOVR UHFHLYLQJH[FOXVLYH9,3DFFHVVWRWKH 7ULEHFD)LOP)HVWLYDODQLQYLWDWLRQ WRWKH)RUWKH/RYHRI&LQHPD SULYDWHGLQQHUKRVWHGE\,:& 6FKDĚ&#x2020;KDXVHQDVZHOODVOX[XU\KRWHO DFFRPPRGDWLRQLQ1HZ<RUN&LW\ ,QWHUHVWHGEX\HUVPD\ELGDWWKH OLYHDXFWLRQDWWKHLU0DGLVRQ $YHQXHVKRZURRPRQOLQHDWZZZ DQWLTXRUXPFRPRUYLDWHOHSKRQH

- 29 -


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TIMEPIECES

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RU+0RVHU &LH every mechanism, PRYHPHQWDQG PLOOLVHFRQGFRXQWV $QGLWLVWKLV DWWHQWLRQWRGHWDLO WKDWFRQWLQXHVWRQXGJHWKHZRUOG¶V ZDWFKFRQQRLVVHXUVLQLWVGLUHFWLRQ $JUDYLWDWLRQDOSXOOIXUWKHU HQKDQFHGE\WKHUHOHDVHRILWV QHZHVWFRPSOLFDWLRQWKH3HUSHWXDO &DOHQGDU%ODFN(GLWLRQ 6KRZVWRSSLQJDQGLQGLYLGXDO IDVKLRQDEOHDQGVOLJKWO\UHWURWKH

TICK-TOCK The horology rumour mill can take a short break as H. Moser & Cie finally releases details of its long awaited all-black edition of the Perpetual Calendar…

QHZFRPSOLFDWLRQLVDJUHDWH[DPSOH RIWKH6ZLVVZDWFKPDNHU¶VQRKROGV EDUUHGDSSURDFKWRWHOOLQJWKHWLPH 0DGHXSRISDUWV±ZLWK DPD[LPXPRIFRPSOLFDWLRQV WREHPDGHWKLV\HDU±VWDQGRXW IHDWXUHVDUHDSOHQW\WKHZDWFK QRWRQO\PDUNVWLPHE\DGMXVWLQJ IRUOHDS\HDUVDQGWKHGL̆HUHQW QXPEHURIGD\VLQFHUWDLQPRQWKV WKHÀDVKFDOHQGDUKDUQHVVHVWKH HQHUJ\WRVZLWFKWKHGDWHDFFXUDWHO\ LQDIUDFWLRQRIDVHFRQG6XFK IXQFWLRQDOLW\XVXDOO\FRPHVZLWK DFOXWWHUHGGHVLJQ±DIDUÀXQJ FRQFHUQIRU+0RVHURQVS\LQJWKH HOHJDQWDHVWKHWLFVRIWKLVQHZPRGHO 7KHUH¶VPRUH7KHPRQWK LQGLFDWLRQXVHVWKHKRXULQGLFHV WRPDUNWKHPRQWKVZLWKDVPDOO WKLUGKDQGRQWKHD[LVZKLOHWKH SHUSHWXDOFDOHQGDULVRQHRIDIHZ WKDWPD\EHDGMXVWHGIRUZDUGDQG EDFNDWDQ\WLPHRIGD\ZLWKRXW ULVNLQJGDPDJHWRWKHPRYHPHQW /LNHWKHIXQFWLRQV±KDQG ZRXQGZLWKDXVHIXOVHYHQGD\ SRZHUUHVHUYH±WKHPDWHULDOV XVHGIRUWKHDOOEODFNHGLWLRQDUH HTXDOO\LPSUHVVLYHPRVWQRWDEO\ WLWDQLXP&KRVHQIRULWVH[FHSWLRQDO PHFKDQLFDOSURSHUWLHV±LW¶VVWXUG\ HDV\WRZHDUK\SRDOOHUJHQLFDQG H[WUHPHO\OLJKW±WLWDQLXPLV XVHGIRUWKHFDVHDQGSLQEXFNOH - 31 -

clasp, with a DLC treatment. The VSHFLDOFDUERQ¿QLVKRQWKHKDQG VWLWFKHGDOOLJDWRUEDQGVHHWKURXJK VDSSKLUHFU\VWDOFDVHEDFNDQG PLOOLPHWUHGLDOSXQFWXDWHGE\ URVHJROGLQGLFHVDGGWRWKHZDWFK¶V DSSHDOIXUWKHU The timepiece, available from 0D\LVWKHWKLUGZDWFKLQ+0RVHU¶V SHUSHWXDOFDOHQGDUFROOHFWLRQ±ZLWK JROGDQGSODWLQXPPDNLQJXSWKH other two. 7KHXQYHLOLQJFRLQFLGHV ZLWK(GRXDUG0H\ODQ¶VRQH year anniversary as CEO at the ZDWFKPDNHU$QGPXFKOLNH+ 0RVHU &LHFROOHFWRUVKH¶VHTXDOO\ H[FLWHGDERXWWKHWLPHSLHFH¶V UHOHDVH6SHDNLQJWR$,5KHVD\V ³7KH3HUSHWXDO&DOHQGDU%ODFN (GLWLRQZLOODSSHDOWRDQHZZDWFK FRQQRLVVHXUWKHPRUHGDULQJ JHQWOHPHQDVLWEULQJVDXQLTXH XUEDQ\HWWLPHOHVVEODFN¿QLVKWR DFODVVLFDOZDWFK´DGGLQJ³:H KRSHWKHVHSURGXFWVZLOOH[FLWHRXU FXUUHQWFXVWRPHUVDVZHOODVFDWFK WKHDWWHQWLRQRIRWKHUVZKRDUHMXVW GLVFRYHULQJ+0RVHU &LH´ /RRNLQJDKHDG0H\ODQVD\VWKLV ³:HFDQGLYXOJHWKDWZLOOEH ZRUWKWKHZDLWDVZHZLOOLQWURGXFH a new family of very rare watches ZKLFKZLOOEHSUHVHQWHGLQDQHZ collection.”


TIMEPIECES

A TIMELY TOURBILLON Arnold & Son celebrates 250 years of watchmaking history with an inventive new timepiece

- 33 -


TIMEPIECES

- 34 -


W

hen one considers horological history, it is usually Swiss watchmaking that springs to mind. However, in the late 18th century it was the English that reigned supreme. Leading the way was John Arnold, born in Cornwall in 1736 and widely considered to be one of the most inventive watchmakers of his day. This year, the company Arnold founded 250 years ago celebrates his legacy by unveiling the Royal TEC1 timepiece. The TEC1 integrates three complications never before FRPELQHGE\WKHEUDQGLQVXFKDUHÂżQHGUHQGLWLRQ a tourbillon, a column wheel chronograph, and an automatic winding system. Combining these in such a way that was both stylish and technically advanced proved quite a challenge for the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s research and development team, says executive vice president Philippe Boven. â&#x20AC;&#x153;As such, the traditional layout of a movement with these functions has been totally discarded and allnew engineering was required,â&#x20AC;? he explains. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The movement has been conceived in a way that the tourbillon escapement majestically occupies the entire top portion of the dial from 10 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock to two oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock with DQRYHUVL]HGDSHUWXUHWKDWRĚ&#x2020;HUVDQLQFUHGLEOHWKUHH GLPHQVLRQDOHĚ&#x2020;HFWDVWKHWRXUELOORQFDJHURWDWHV´ The lower portion of the dial features the chronograph function, with the 60 minutes counter strategically located at six oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock for harmonious balance. The VHFRQGVFRXQWHULVRĚ&#x2020;HUHGYLDDFHQWUDOVHFRQGVKDQG The large column wheel chronograph is visible via the transparent sapphire case back. â&#x20AC;&#x153;All this results in a very elegant and equilibrated dial,â&#x20AC;? says Boven. Elegant is a word Boven uses often, and the TEC1 UHDOO\GRHVUHĂ&#x20AC;HFWWKHEUDQGÂśVLQLPLWDEOH(QJOLVKVW\OH Âł8VXDOO\WRXUELOORQFKURQRJUDSKZDWFKHVXVHPRGLÂżHG chronograph movements where a tourbillon is added afterwards to an existing chronograph movement,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;These movements and watches do, therefore, not look balanced and often have very clumsy dial layouts. We really developed a new movement from scratch with a very clean and harmonious dial layout in mind. From the very beginning the aesthetic was a main focus.â&#x20AC;? The TEC1, the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s third tourbillon, is part of its Royal Collection. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This collection is a reference to the masterpieces created in the early part of John Arnoldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life for King George III and members of the Royal court,â&#x20AC;? explains Boven. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The timepieces of this collection are characterised by their technical ingenuity DQGXQLTXH(QJOLVKVW\OHUHJDODQGVXPSWXRXVERDVWLQJ DGLVFUHHWRSXOHQFHRĚ&#x2020;VHWE\WKHHOHJDQFHRIDGRXEOH VWHSEH]HODQGOXJVJHQWO\Ă&#x20AC;RZLQJFRQWRXUVDQGVRIW curves.â&#x20AC;? -RKQ$UQROGÂżUVWIRXQGIDPHLQDIWHUKH presented King George III with the smallest repeating watch ever made. Not content with creating timepieces

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;We really developed a new movement from scratch with a very clean and harmonious dial layout in mindâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for the Royal court and his well-heeled clientele, Arnold answered a call from the British government to help solve the problem of determining longitude at sea. The Royal Navy and some of the greatest explorers of the time used his chronometers, lauded for their precision, as they charted new territory. While the aesthetic is very British, Arnold & Sonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s development and production facilities are located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, at the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry, for it is here that John Arnoldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heritage of high-quality precision can be best realised. Unlike other watch manufacturers, who often use the same FDOLEUHIRUGLĚ&#x2020;HUHQWPRGHOV$UQROG 6RQGHYHORSVD new movement for every single model. Comprised of 255 components with 30 jewels, the A&S8305 calibre LVEHDXWLIXOO\KDQGÂżQLVKHGZLWKÂżQHFLUFXODUJUDLQLQJ hand-chamfered bridges and a 22-carat skeletonised rotor. â&#x20AC;&#x153;TEC1 is automatic, which is quite rare for a tourbillon chronograph and makes this watch a perfect daily wearer,â&#x20AC;? says Boven. The company will produce three versions of the 7(&DOLPLWHGHGLWLRQLQFDUDWUHGJROGZLWKD blue lacquered dial; a version with a palladium case and silver-white dial; and an 18-carat red gold with anthracite dial version. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The limited edition comprises only 28 timepieces. The response from our collectors and our customers in general has been tremendous so far,â&#x20AC;? says Boven. It is not the only timepiece the company has created to mark its historic anniversary. Also launched this year are the DTE (Double Tourbillon Escapement) and DSTB (Dial Side True Beat), both part of the Instrument Collection. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We will further launch two additional watches with totally new movements. This means that LQWRWDOZHZLOOKDYHODXQFKHGQRWOHVVWKDQÂżYHQHZ calibers this year,â&#x20AC;? Boven says. John Arnold would be proud.

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GENEVA

Coutts & Co. (Registered in England No. 36695), DIFC Branch, is regulated by the Dubai Financial Services Authority (DFSA). Coutts & Co. (Registered in England No. 36695), 5*'&VERGLMWVIKYPEXIHF]XLI5EXEV*MRERGMEP'IRXVI6IKYPEXSV]%YXLSVMX] 5*'6% 'SYXXW 'S(YFEMVITVIWIRXEXMZISJ½GIERH'SYXXW 'S%FY(LEFMVITVIWIRXEXMZI SJ½GIEVIVIKYPEXIHF]XLI'IRXVEP&EROSJXLI9RMXIH%VEF)QMVEXIW


INTERIORS

MASTER CHAIRMAKER “A chair is not complete until someone sits in it,” the late Danish furniture designer Hans J. Wegner once said. He should know, for he designed some of the world’s most sought after chairs, as AIR discovers…

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INTERIORS

T

he world has been fascinated by the chair for centuries: Vincent Van Gogh in 1888 used it as the subject for his Vincentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chair painting; Bonhamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s auctioned Sam Spadeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s burgundy leather chair from The 0DOWHVH)DOFRQÂżOPODVW\HDUDQG&KULVWLHÂśV set a world auction record for an American armchair back in 1999 when it sold a 1700s walnut chair for over US$1.9 million. Furniture designers past and present, too, continue to churn out alternative interpretations of the classic chair. One such designer is the late Hans J. Wegner. Described by those who knew him as introverted and unfriendly, Wegner is the pioneer of midcentury Scandinavian design. But talkative or QRWWKHPDQNQHZKLVVWXĚ&#x2020;ZKHQLWFDPHWR furniture of the four-legged kind. One hundred years since his birth â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a little over seven years since his death â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Wegner, born in Denmark, was a master FDUSHQWHUÂżUVWDQGDGHVLJQHUVHFRQG7KHWZR skills combined led to the creation of some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most sought after chairs: the Flag Halyard, Teddy Bear, Valet and the Y-chair (aka the Wishbone chair). With a penchant for wood â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a preference for minimalism â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Wegnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chairs

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are among some of the most complex in the market – veneer back brace, steam-bent oak arms and woven cane seats. And while he had a deep respect for wood – most notably oak – he dabbled in other materials where necessary. A case in point: the stainless steel Flag Halyard chair, a futuristic-looking piece that is as ergonomically pleasing as it is aesthetically. Other chairs of interest from the 500 designs he produced include the ‘Chair’, a collaboration between Wegner and furniture maker Johannes Hansen. Said chair was the seat of choice for John F. Kennedy and Richard Nixon during the legendary televised debates during the presidential election in 1961. The aforementioned Valet chair, designed in 1953 and also crafted by Johannes Hansen around 1965, was a genius idea by Wegner: it doubled up as a clothes rack. The Teddy Bear chair, meanwhile, is a great example of Wegner’s experimentation with wood and leather. This four-legged masterpiece has armrests like bear paws. They literally embrace you from behind. Perhaps Wegner’s most celebrated work is the

‘Wegner is the pioneer of midcentury Scandinavian design’ Wishbone chair, designed for Carl Hansen & Søn in 1949. With its paper cord seat – of which 120 metres is used per seat – and distinctive back, the award-winning Y-chair is one of the designer’s bestsellers today. And despite the chair’s straightforward appearance it takes more than 100 steps to make one. Like his fan base, museums are keen to display his work also: the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York and Die Neue Sammlung in Munich have both showcased a bunch of Wegner chairs in the past. Then there’s the auction houses, many of which are eager to have a Wegner in their lot: the oak and leather prototype Roman armchair circa 1960 fetched US$194,775 at Phillips Nordic Design auction in London last year, while a pair of rare ‘Bear’ chairs from the 1960s sold for US$137,535. Not a bad sell for a chair made by the son of a shoemaker who started out as a carpenter’s apprentice at aged 14. It was Wegner who once said “a chair is not complete until someone sits in it”. I guess it’s time to take a seat – on a Wishbone, of course. - 39 -


Dubai Mall | Dubai Marina Mall | Mall of the Emirates | Wafi | Gold Souk


JEWELLERY > Shown unmounted and assigned a VS2 clarity grade, the aforementioned fancy intense orangey pink diamond has an estimate of US$6-7 million. Also unmounted, this sparkling D colour VS1 diamond of 10.07 carats is expected to attract enthusiastic bidding, with an estimate of between US$775,000-US$1 million.

MA NHATTA N MAGIC

L

ast Decemberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sale of 0DJQL¿FHQW-HZHOVLQ 1HZ<RUNZDVQRWKLQJ VKRUWRIVSHFWDFXODU $FKLHYLQJ86 PLOOLRQDXFWLRQHHU /LVD+XEEDUGSUHVLGHGRYHUWKH VDOHRIH[WUDRUGLQDULO\UDUHMHZHOV LQFOXGLQJDKDQGIXORIH[TXLVLWH (J\SWLDQUHYLYDOSLHFHVPDGHE\ &DUWLHULQWKHVWKDWGUHZ QHDUO\LQWHUQDWLRQDOELGGHUV )RULWV$SULODXFWLRQ6RWKHE\¶V 1HZ<RUNKDVRQFHDJDLQJDWKHUHG VRPHLQFUHGLEOHVKRZVWRSSHUV 7KHVDOHLQFOXGHVMHZHOVIURPWKH HVWDWHRI86VLQJHU(\GLH*RUPH EHVWNQRZQIRUKHU*UDPP\ QRPLQDWHGKLW%ODPH,W2QWKH%RVVD 1RYDDQGDQXPEHURIVSOHQGLG ULQJVWKDWDUHERXQGWRDWWUDFW FROOHFWRUVIURPDURXQGWKHZRUOG &RORXUHGGLDPRQGVKDYHEHHQWKH VWDUVRIUHFHQWDXFWLRQV±ZKRFRXOG IRUJHW7KH3LQN6WDUDFDUDW LQWHUQDOO\Ã&#x20AC;DZOHVVIDQF\YLYLG SLQNGLDPRQGWKDWVROGIRUDZRUOG UHFRUG86PLOOLRQDW6RWKHE\¶V *HQHYDDXFWLRQLQ1RYHPEHU"$QG DFDUDWIDQF\LQWHQVHRUDQJH\ SLQNGLDPRQGULQJORRNVVHWWREH RQHRIWKHKLJKOLJKWVRIWKLVODWHVW 1HZ<RUNDXFWLRQ+HUH¶VRXUSLFNRI ZKDWWRUDLVH\RXUSDGGOHIRU«

$,5FXUDWHVWKHPRVWFRYHWHGSLHFHVIURP WKHIRUWKFRPLQJ6RWKHE\¶V1HZ<RUN 0DJQL¿FHQW-HZHOVVDOH«

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> Also of note are these two Tiffany & Co. pieces. Designed around 1900 by Paulding Farnham, the jewellery houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pre-eminent designer of the time, this delicate pink tourmaline and diamond brooch has an estimate of US$40,000US$60,000. The fancy intense yellow diamond and emerald ring from the early 20th century, designed by Louis Comfort, has an estimate of US$100,000-US$150,000.

> This 18-carat gold bracelet from Cartier, circa 1925, also caught our eye and is sure to get pulses racing on auction day. The striking piece features emeralds, diamonds and onyx, and has an estimate of US$600,000US$800,000. - 43 -


JEWELLERY > Another exquisite Cartier piece, this elegant 1920s emerald and diamond bracelet has an estimate of between US$700,000 to US$900,000. Signed jewels that will never be made again always inspire collectors, so expect stiff competition.

> From the estate of Eydie Gorme, this beautiful Harry Winston-designed platinum and emerald-cut diamond ring has an estimate of US$350,000-US$450,000, while the internally flawless marquise diamond, weighing 7.51 carats, set in platinum comes with a similar estimate. Both pieces look stunning alongside the classic platinum and diamond rivière necklace (estimate US$250,000-US$350,000).

> Another sparkler to watch is this magnificent sapphire and diamond ring. Weighing 28.18 carats, the stone is from Kashmir, where the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most sought after sapphires are found, and carries a pre-sale estimation of between US$4-5 million.

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ASPIRE: diamonds in 18K rose gold

THE FINE ART OF DESIRE

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JEWELLERY

A

quick glance into Harrods’ shop windows is like looking at static theatre behind glass. Never dull, always captivating, constantly changing; the luxury department store pays as much attention to the exterior of its Knightsbridge store as it does to the clothes swinging from its rails. And this month sees jeweller Fabergé take a luxurious hold of its windows, façade and JURXQGÀRRUVKRSSLQJVSDFHIRULWV ‘Fabergé Easter’ exhibition. From April 1-21, the windows ZLOOEHGUDSHGLQ)DEHUJpÀDJV and used to highlight the history of the Russian jewellery house – from its lavish Easter eggs created for the Russian Imperial family to today’s contemporary jewellery. Inside the store, meanwhile, visitors can mosey around the Fabergé Salon, an exhibition showcasing a series of one-of-a-kind collectible pieces designed for Fabergé by Parisian jeweller Frédéric Zaavy. The much-coveted collection – which includes the original Fabergé Apple Blossom Egg, designed in 1901 – will be on display LQLWVHQWLUHW\IRUWKH¿UVWWLPHLQWKH UK in a non-museum environment. To celebrate this milestone, the jeweller has created a limited edition pendant, the Spiral Tassel Pendant, available exclusively at Harrods from April 1. There’s more: a Fabergé ‘egg bar’ will EHRQVLWHWRR̆HUFXVWRPHUVDQ opportunity to discover the iconic egg pendants, while a bespoke instore engraving service will allow clients to personalise their purchase. The Fabergé Salon will be located at Door 9, Ground Floor, Harrods, London.

Eggstatic display Fabergé is taking over luxury London department store Harrods for an exclusive exhibition this month. AIR takes a look at what’s on show…

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ART & DESIGN


AMERICAN BEAUTY Ben Turnbull pulls the trigger on American History X: Volume 1 – The Death of America Words: Richard Jenkins

I

magine a world where JFK had been allowed to live to 100-years-old, and Abraham Lincoln had decided to skip the theatre and stay home instead. A world where Martin Luther King Jr. is still with us, and Jack Ruby hadn’t taken his revenge on Lee Harvey Oswald with a smoking gun in 1963. These bleak moments in American history have shaped the identity of a nation. London-based artist Ben Turnbull has spent his career exploring these dark VSDFHVDQGLVQRZSUHVHQWLQJWKH¿UVWRIIRXUYROXPHVLQ his American History X series. Turnbull tells AIR: “I suppose the beginning of the project started when I became a bit more independent. Most of the work I do tends to come from a sense of adversity; I thrived in just going out and doing something on my own. It began with some pieces that aren’t actually in volume one, and that’s why American History X became a series of volumes. I thought that I FRXOGUHDOO\H[SDQGWKLVDOPRVWKDYHGL̆HUHQWKLVWRU\ lessons for each section.” Despite not visiting the US until 2008, Turnbull feels DGHHSḊQLW\ZLWKWKHFRXQWU\GXHWRDSHULSDWHWLF upbringing. “I always intended to go to America,” he says, “but I always felt that I would never be able to get - 49 -


ART & DESIGN

there. I had a pretty nomadic existence growing up, with a single mother. Reading American comics, I was almost creating my own America, and I very much took to the American pop scene in its early phases. I think it was like building your own miniature world and that’s informed me with this series of works.” Volume 1 – The Death of America focuses on the country’s grim history of assassinations. Collage portraits of John F. Kennedy, Bobby Kennedy and Lee Harvey Oswald mingle with a revisited theme, Pezdispenser presidents. Turnbull originally had the idea to place US presidents’ heads on Pez dispensers in 2006, but saw his work plagiarised. The artist says: “I originally did a series of standard presidents as Pez dispensers. Funnily enough the American government did this themselves three or four years after that. And when the American government did their own series, the idea got copied by a couple of artists. I got sent a link

to some of the imagery and I thought, well… imitation is WKHVLQFHUHVWIRUPRIÀDWWHU\%\WKHZD\,GLGQ¶WDFWXDOO\ think that, I thought ‘how dare you copy me!’. So when I was planning this project I thought I really wanted to make this series virtually impossible to copy and the only way to do that would be to embellish it all with my

‘I think that truth, justice and the American Way are very much in all facets of these volumes’ trademark stamp that nobody else could do, and for PHWKDW¿WSHUIHFWO\ZLWKWKHLGHDVEHKLQGWKLVZKROH volume. The assassinations, the Hinckley Juniors, the Harvey Oswalds, the Kennedys… it just made sense to

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change the lettering. It was so simple to use R-I-P. It just ÂżWSHUIHFWO\ÂąDQGUXEEHUVWDPSHGWKH%-7IHHO´ Pop-art collectors from Jared Leto to Harry Styles KDYHERXJKWZRUNVE\7XUQEXOOZKRVHSURÂżOHLV becoming bigger and bigger â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a Banksy with a public face. However, anyone interested in commercialising the artist is given short shrift. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t name names but I was asked to put giant billboards down 5th Avenue in New York,â&#x20AC;? Turnbull recalls. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I had a huge falling out with the gallery, not so much the people who asked me to do it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and it was a massive, huge name â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but it was almost glorifying death and I just thought I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do that. I have a massive integrity with my work, so much so that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been asked to make numerous prints RIYDULRXVFROODJHZRUNVRUWKH86Ă&#x20AC;DJDQGLWZDVD similar story. My work is too personal and steeped in memoriam. A lot of the work is to do with victims, the IDOOHQ7KHVHZRUNVDUHGRQHDVRQHRĚ&#x2020;VWKH\ÂśUHDOO

originals. It probably could have changed my career and I could have created a workforce instead of working alone, but in the modern day art world, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t buy integrity.â&#x20AC;? For an America-obsessed Londoner, the exploration of the US has only just begun. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the one thing he wants people to take away from The Death of America? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Educationâ&#x20AC;? is the emphatic answer. â&#x20AC;&#x153;What I really want people to take away is that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a history lesson. The pieces are aesthetically nice and each work reveals GLĚ&#x2020;HUHQWIDFHWVRIWKH$PHULFDQFXOWXUHDQGWKH\ can be seen as coming from a very dark angle. But ultimately this is all true. I think that Truth, Justice and The American Way are very much in all facets of these volumes. Ultimately these are true stories being told but in a very unusual way, using very unusual mediums.â&#x20AC;? American History X: Volume 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Death of America will run from April 3-18 at Brixton East, London.

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W.I . N . O .N .A Forever

At 42 – yet still looking not much more than 18 – Winona Ryder must be the only star who, for various reasons, is glad to have waved youth goodbye. And that’s not the only way in which she stands far apart from the rest of Hollywoodkind. She talks to Celia Walden

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W

inona Ryder and I are sitting side by side in silence on a sofa in the bar of Chateau Marmont, holding our palms upturned and outstretched. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You see,â&#x20AC;? she says with a smile. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It frees you up, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t it? Everything sort of comes to the surface.â&#x20AC;? The star of Heathers, Girl Interrupted and Black Swan â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an actress who has been reductively if accurately described as â&#x20AC;&#x153;the poster girl for the 1990sâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; has been telling me about â&#x20AC;&#x153;this weird thing I do if I have to get HPRWLRQDOLQDÂżOP,WDOZD\VZRUNV´6KHGRHVQÂśWMXVW want me to take her word for it; she wants me to try it. Which I do because this is Los Angeles and nobody would bat an eyelid if you were to assume the lotus pose in the middle of a bar and start chanting, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Om shanti, shanti.â&#x20AC;? But also, simply, because Ryder wants me do it. Something about the actress draws you in from the outset, making you want to befriend and protect her â&#x20AC;&#x201C; both uncomfortable sensations for an interviewer. She talks in open-ended sentences, dipping in and out of ZKLVSHUVDQGYHHULQJRĚ&#x2020;RQWDQJHQWV$QGDWLQD EDWWHUHGFUHDPOHDWKHUMDFNHWYLQWDJH7VKLUWDQGMHDQV sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still as fragile and translucent-skinned as she was at 18, as Cherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pious teenage daughter in Mermaids, with the underlying grit of Lelaina, her character in the Generation X time-capsule that was Reality Bites, and the quiet wisdom of May Welland in Martin Scorseseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Age of Innocence. Maybe she was too memorable in those early years, capturing the zeitgeist of that decade too well both professionally and personally, in her highly scrutinised relationships with Johnny Depp and Matt Damon. Or PD\EHWKDWVKRSOLIWLQJLQFLGHQWLQDIWHUZKLFK she was ordered to undergo psychological and drug

Godâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.â&#x20AC;? Hare was astute enough to see that Ryderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s range as an actress should not be limited by her preternaturally youthful looks, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to see how directors could still see that as a problem. In full make-up, Ryder somehow manages to look more like a teenager whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ransacked her motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cosmetics drawer than a \HDUROGDFWUHVVZLWKWZR2VFDUQRPLQDWLRQVXQGHU her belt. Âł,WZDVKDUGWRÂżQGWKDWWUDQVLWLRQWRDGXOWUROHV´VKH FRQFHGHVÂł%XW,ÂśPDFWXDOO\UHDOO\HQMR\LQJJHWWLQJROGHU because I went through a period of time where I was technically old enough for roles but always associated with younger ones. The whole of my thirties was spent that way. Now that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m in my forties itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s getting a little bit easier.â&#x20AC;? ,WDPXVHVUDWKHUWKDQRĚ&#x2020;HQGVKHUWKDWÂłSHRSOHZLOO point to theseâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; she smiles, indicating â&#x20AC;&#x153;the elevensâ&#x20AC;?, or lines between her brows â&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x153;and say, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;you might want to do something about thoseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to knock anyone who does all that because it only bothers me when I see actresses I know, love and respect who have been talked into having something done. But whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s weird WRPHLVWKDW,ÂśGUDWKHUMXVWORRNP\DJH0\IDYRXULWH performances are by actresses like Bette Davis in All About Eve or Gena Rowlands in pretty much anything â&#x20AC;&#x201C; performances that have nothing to do with age. As a teenager I worked on Indian reservations and it was such an incredible culture: the elders are so respected.â&#x20AC;? She shrugs and reaches for her tea. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sad the way we treat older people here.â&#x20AC;? Ryderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unconventional childhood has been exhaustively documented and occasionally used to explain the more disturbing events in her life, but the actress â&#x20AC;&#x201C; christened Winona Laura Horowitz and named

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fame can be incredibly isolating. Dangerously soâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; FRXQVHOOLQJDQGWKHQWRRNWLPHRĚ&#x2020;IURPKHUFDUHHUKDV overshadowed the excellent work she has done since: her portrayal of the embittered, ageing ballerina in Black Swan and the cheating wife in The Dilemma. Either ZD\ZLWKDUROHDVDP\VWHULRXVÂżQDQFLDO35LQ'DYLG Hareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new political thriller, Turks & Caicos, alongside Christopher Walken, Bill Nighy and Helena Bonham Carter, Ryderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bemused by talk of a comeback. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Only because theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been saying it for so long,â&#x20AC;? she says with a laugh. â&#x20AC;&#x153;And Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m, like, where was I? Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a ELJSDUWRIPHWKDWMXVWZDQWVWRGRJRRGZRUNDQGQRW have that pressure. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have any interest in being a movie star. And although Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d love to say that everything ,ÂśYHGRQHKDVEHHQDSDVVLRQSURMHFWÂąZKHQRIFRXUVH ,ÂśYHGRQHWKLQJVMXVWWRZRUNDQG,ÂśYHGRQHFORQNHUVÂą you get a letter from David Hare, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re like, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Oh my

after the Minnesota city in which she was born â&#x20AC;&#x201C; speaks fondly of the four years she spent in a commune in Elk, Northern California, from the age of seven. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It was pretty incredible. We were in 380 acres of redwoods and there was no electricity.â&#x20AC;? 5\GHUVWDUWHGDFWLQJDWRQFHKHUSDUHQWVÂą bohemian intellectuals who were friends with the author Aldous Huxley, the beat poet Allen Ginsberg and LSD proselytiser Timothy Leary â&#x20AC;&#x201C; moved to the nearby FLW\RI3HWDOXPD$Q\UHVHQWPHQWVKHGRHVKDUERXU towards them is for setting too good an example of what marriage could be, she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crazy because they DUHVWLOOVRLQORYHDIWHU\HDUVWRJHWKHUÂąDQG,PHDQ giddily in love. That set the bar so high for me. I think it may be why I never got married.â&#x20AC;? She came close twice: once in the early 1990s, when,

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having got together with Depp on Edward Scissorhands, she became one half of the Brangelina of grunge, and later in 1998 when she and Damon became engaged, RQO\WRVSOLWXSLQ)RUWKHSDVWWZR\HDUVVKH has reportedly been dating a fashion designer, Scott Mackinlay Hahn, and, although she wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t discuss this today, she is open about her desire to have children, pulling out her phone and showing me a video of her new goddaughter. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Look,â&#x20AC;? she says with a doting smile, â&#x20AC;&#x153;she even yawns. I mean talk about baby feverâ&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;? Then VKHSDXVHVÂł7KLVLVDOLWWOHSHUVRQDOEXW,ÂśPDQGÂŤ Well, I was talking to my dad last year and saying, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;What if I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a kid?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; and he said, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;There are other ways to have children in your lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and I get these amazing doses with my brotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kids. But Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got to stop listening to other people. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crazy the VWXĚ&#x2020;ZRPHQZLOOWHOO\RX´)RUDPRPHQWZHODPHQWWKH scaremongering all childless women over 30 seem to be VXEMHFWHGWRDQG,XUJHKHUQRWWRWDNHLWWRRVHULRXVO\ But Ryder seems happy, healthy and settled â&#x20AC;&#x201C; away from WKHPDGQHVVRI+ROO\ZRRGLQ6DQ)UDQFLVFR ,WZDVWR6DQ)UDQFLVFRWKDWVKHHVFDSHGZKHQVKH took what we both diplomatically refer to throughout the interview â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Ryder drawing inverted commas in the air â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as her â&#x20AC;&#x153;hiatusâ&#x20AC;?. Her parents had lived there for years (they subsequently moved to Canada after George W Bush was re-elected) and she wanted â&#x20AC;&#x153;to take a break, be home for a while and explore some other interests that I would have explored if I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t become an actressâ&#x20AC;?. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fascinated by constitutional law and sat in on a handful of lectures at Berkeley College. She also went to see the environmental activist and life coach Julia %XWWHUĂ&#x20AC;\+LOOZKROLYHGLQD\HDUROG&DOLIRUQLDQ redwood for 738 days to prevent it from being cut down. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I climbed 180ft up to where she was but I only lasted six days up there â&#x20AC;&#x201C; she lasted nearly two years.â&#x20AC;? But really, LWZDVEHLQJLQ6DQ)UDQFLVFRWKDWKHOSHG7KHUHVKH says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;people will be like, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hey, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s up?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the street, because Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a home-town girl.â&#x20AC;? It gave her the grounding she needed. Âł)DPHFDQEHLQFUHGLEO\LVRODWLQJ´5\GHUVD\VTXLHWO\ Âł'DQJHURXVO\VR$QG,ÂśYHGHÂżQLWHO\JRQHWKURXJK that. There was a time when I would go for a hike and I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even know that I was being photographed.â&#x20AC;?

'LGDQ\SDUWRIKHUHQMR\LWZKHQLWKDSSHQHG"%HLQJWKH hottest actress out there, stepping out with the hottest men? She frowns. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It was actually pretty weird and traumatic. I was so young that I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really understand ZKDWZDVJRLQJRQ,DOZD\VMXVWUHDOO\ZDQWHGWREHD good actress.â&#x20AC;? In that respect, whatever the vehicle, Ryder has never compromised. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still the girl who was so determined to play the corruptible Veronica in the 1988 hit Heathers that she â&#x20AC;&#x153;literally pleadedâ&#x20AC;? with the casting directors to be given a second chance. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My agent told me it would UXLQP\FDUHHUDQGWKHÂżUVWWLPH,ZHQWLQWRDXGLWLRQ they told me I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pretty enough so I got a makeover at the Beverly Center [shopping mall] and went straight EDFNÂąEHFDXVH,MXVWZDQWHGWRVD\WKHZRUGVHYHQLI they hated me.â&#x20AC;? These days, she waits for that â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have to do itâ&#x20AC;? moment, turning down a fair number of dark, damaged roles, particularly anything involving children. After WKHDEGXFWLRQDQGPXUGHURI3ROO\.ODDVÂąD\HDUROG IURP3HWDOXPDIRUZKRP5\GHUKHOSHGVHDUFKRĚ&#x2020;HULQJ D86UHZDUGIRUKHUVDIHUHWXUQÂąWKHDFWUHVVÂśV

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sensitivity to the subject has been heightened. She is a member of the child-safety foundation set up in the wake of the crime. “It’s true that I get sent these scripts and they’re so dark,” she says. “I just got sent this one about paedophilia and it had a great cast but I read it and – maybe because of Polly – just thought, ‘I don’t want to be a part of that’.” In this sense of responsibility – and in so many other ways – Ryder is atypical of her industry. She won’t tweet (“apparently studios look to see how many followers you have but even the term ‘followers’ is faintly creepy to me”), and hates the idea of a stylist telling her what to wear. “I’ve worn vintage dresses to the Oscars that I bought for US$19 and at Sean Penn’s Haiti EHQH¿WWKHRWKHUQLJKW,ZRUHDGUHVVRQFH owned by Audrey Hepburn that I’d worn to a friend’s première years ago – which apparently is some sort of no-no.” She also prefers to spend her time unearthing Philip Roths and John Updikes at

‘I always just really wanted to be a good actress’

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her favourite San Francisco bookshop, City Lights, than waste time reading populist ¿FWLRQVXFKDV)LIW\6KDGHV of Grey. “Do you know that I thought that book was about Wall Street because there’s a guy in a tie on the cover?” she says, giggling. “Actually, I met the woman who wrote it right here at Chateau Marmont. I was at this party upstairs talking to this woman and I said, ‘Oh, so is your book about ¿QDQFLDOWUDGLQJ"¶´(/ James was probably won over by this unabashed outlier. Where Ryder’s concerned, it’s hard not to be.


The

MAN

in the

IRON MASK Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s played Gandhi, psychopathic gangsters, and a comic book baddie. But who is this thespian knight really? If Sir Ben Kingsley knows, he isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t telling... - 58 -


W

ho is Sir Ben Kingsley? Many have tried to get to the bottom of this conundrum â&#x20AC;&#x201C; including, you suspect, the man himself â&#x20AC;&#x201C; without coming up with a wholly satisfactory answer. To some, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of the greatest theatrical knights â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the living, often helplessly grandiloquent embodiment of luvvie-dom â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s actually spent the past three decades devoting himself to the movies. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s played forbearing goodness, in his Oscar-winning turn as Gandhi, and bullet-headed malevolence, as the gangster Don Logan in Sexy Beast, with equally stunning facility (Ray Winstone, his co-star in the latter and no stranger to villainy, DGPLWWHGWREHLQJÂłWHUULÂżHG´RI.LQJVOH\ZKHQ he turned up in character on set: â&#x20AC;&#x153;I looked at him and thought, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got to be kidding me, WKLVLV*DQGKL"´  Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s played characters from virtually every continent, subcontinent, and hemisphere, SHUKDSVDUHĂ&#x20AC;HFWLRQRIKLVRZQSURWHDQ$QJOR Indian-Russian inheritance. He himself says that, if weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re really intent on gleaning clues as to his nature, we should run his showreel. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have a dear friend, Tony Palmer, who made a documentary on the life of Richard %XUWRQ´KHVD\VLQKLVSUHFLVHPHDVXUHG tones. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It featured some interviews, in many of which he was a little the worse for wear. But the spine of the documentary was a mosaic of his performances. Put them together, pull back, and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Burton. I think, when I leave the planet and the equivalent of Tony tries to construct something similar, then fragments of my roles, those bits, would form a composite portrait of me. Without a mask I havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t got a FOXH´ â&#x20AC;&#x153;Give a man a mask and heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll tell you the WUXWK´ The Sir Ben who says this, on a cold spring morning in a London hotel suite, is wearing a mask of cordial benignity (this will eventually VOLSMXVWDOLWWOHRIZKLFKPRUHODWHU  +HÂśVVWRSSHGRĚ&#x2020;KHUHRQKLVZD\KRPHWR Oxfordshire, â&#x20AC;&#x153;so I can hit the ground running, VRWRVSHDN´$WKHÂśVFHUWDLQO\WULPDQG spruce in a black leather jacket and dark jeans that complement his saturnine brow. He orders a peppermint tea (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going to let it VWHHSDOLWWOHZKLOHWKDQNV´KHVD\VSROLWHO\ EXWÂżUPO\ZKHQWKHZDLWHUWULHVWRSRXULW  Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been said that, in his roles, Kingsley seems to veer between a determination to save

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I think Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m an artist maybe a few seconds of every year, when I really nail it against extraordinary oddsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the world or destroy it; as The Mandarin, Tony Starkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nemesis in last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Iron Man 3, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s PRVWGHÂżQLWHO\LQWKHODWWHUFDPS Kingsley cheerfully admits that he came to the role free of the burden of expectation from FRPLFERRNDÂżFLRQDGRVÂł,RQO\KDGDYDJXH QRWLRQRI0DUYHODQGZKDWLWÂśVDOODERXW´KH says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I had no templates to copy. I simply ZRUNHGIURPWKHVFULSW´:KLOHFRQFHGLQJ WKDWKHÂśVÂłQRJUHDWZDWFKHURIIUDQFKLVHV´WZR WKLQJVPDUNHG,URQ0DQRXWIRUKLPWKHÂłZLW´ of the enterprise, and the stellar rep company of actors involved. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Robert {Downey Jnr} was DKXJHPDJQHWIRUPH´KHVD\VÂł+HÂśVJUHDW company, and he has a great arc as a human being and an actor. I knew heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be joyfully GHGLFDWHGWRWKHMRE´ He pauses, and his brows assume a vaguely beetle-ish aspect. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how I have to WUDQVODWHWKHUDWKHUOD]\$PHULFDQZRUGÂľIXQÂś, canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t work that word out. They always ask you LI\RXÂśUHKDYLQJÂľIXQÂśRYHUWKHUH:LWKFHUWDLQ ZRUGV,UHDFWOLNH7HĂ&#x20AC;RQLWMXVWERXQFHVRĚ&#x2020; DQGWKDWÂśVRQHRIWKHP´7KH0DQGDULQÂśV ÂłWHDFKLQJV´DPRXQWWRPRFNLQJDQGGHVWUR\LQJ the westâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural lodestones, from Coca-Cola bottles to superheroes, and Kingsley groups

- 59 -


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him with a long line of iconoclasts, from the shrine-smashers of the Reformation to the Buddha-blasters of the Taliban. Âł7KHUHZDVSOHQW\WRJHWP\WHHWKLQWR´KH smiles. â&#x20AC;&#x153;But I was allowed to, inasmuch as an actor can only be as good as where he or she is SODFHG,WÂśVRQHRI$UFKLPHGHVÂśVJUHDWVD\LQJV which I passed on to an actor recently, a great girl, who was thrilled by it, she hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seen it WKDWVLPSO\´ DELWRIQRWVRULJRURXVSURELQJ induces him to reveal that it was Catherine .HHQHU ³Âľ*LYHPHDSODFHWRVWDQGDQG Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll move the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. They gave me a place to stand from which I had no excuses if I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get it right; I could really dig into this raging QDUFLVVLVWLFDQDUFKRWHUURULVW$QGDOVRJLYH KLPDSHUVRQD´ 7KHTXHVWLRQRIÂłPRWLYDWLRQ´DSWWRSURYRNH a jaded eyebrow-raise outside actorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rehearsal rooms, is crucial to Kingsley, but he doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go in for Method immersion; a keen cook â&#x20AC;&#x201C; he has D1REHORYHQDWKRPHÂłDFRXVLQ´DVKHSXWV LWÂłRIWKH$JD´ÂąKHOLNHVWRERLOKLVFKDUDFWHUV down to a sort of essence-haiku. Thus, for Itzhak Stern in Schindlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s List, it was simply ÂłVDYLQJSHRSOH´)RU'RQ/RJDQLWZDVÂłWKH KXUWFKLOGODVKLQJRXWDWRWKHUV´$QGIRU7KH Mandarin, he picked up on a line from the script: â&#x20AC;&#x153;You know who I am, you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know ZKHUH,DPDQG\RXÂśOOQHYHUVHHPHFRPLQJ´ â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sort of embedded nugget that I can keep LQP\SRFNHWDQGEXLOGWKHSHUIRUPDQFHIURP´ he says. $VKHJHWVROGHUKHFRQWLQXHVKHÂżQGV this idea of miniaturisation more attractive. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m an artist maybe a few seconds of every year, when I really nail it against extra-ordinary odds. I was talking to Daniel 'D\/HZLVÂąZHORYHFKDWWLQJWRJHWKHU´KH says challengingly, as if Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d dared suggest otherwise. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We both agree that we have no comprehension of how our best moments got XSWKHUHRQVFUHHQ´+HFKHFNVKLPVHOIDQG IURZQVÂł+PP$VP\GDUOLQJIULHQG7LOGD Swinton says, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an awful lot of rubbish WDONHGDERXWDFWLQJ$QG,KDYHWRWDNHP\KDW RĚ&#x2020;WRKHUVKHÂśVDEVROXWHO\ULJKW´ 7LOGDPLJKWFDUHWRORRNDZD\QRZ$ question about why he thinks heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so good at what he does â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to â&#x20AC;&#x153;pretend to be someone HOVHFRQYLQFLQJO\´DVKHSXWVLWÂą\LHOGVDQ answer thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s simultaneously heartfelt and almost omni-luvvie, and therefore beyond lampoon. He begins by comparing himself to a Neolithic storyteller (â&#x20AC;&#x153;he would begin RYHUWKHOLWWOHÂżUHLQIURQWRIWKHFDYHÂŤLVLW any coincidence that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the dark of evening

ZKHQZHJRWRWKHWKHDWUH"´ JRHVRQWR namecheck Clarissa Pinkola EstĂŠs and her mytho-poetic tract Women Who Run With the Wolves (â&#x20AC;&#x153;she says she believes storytelling is profoundly healingâ&#x20AC;Ś that rang a huge bell ZLWKPH´ DQGFOLPD[HVDOPRVWLQHYLWDEO\ with Trevor Nunn. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was spoilt because, thank God, he auditioned me for the RSC when I was a toddler, barely walking as an actor. I never went to drama school, and he gave me a wonderful run of parts just to watch me. That became my family, my education, my university, my language, my embrace, my tribe. In Shakespeare, we see archetypal patterns of human behaviour that are Ă&#x20AC;DZOHVVO\UHQGHUHGZKLFKFRPIRUWXVSURYRNH XVRĚ&#x2020;HUXVH[SODQDWLRQVDQGZKLFK,ÂśYHEHHQ attempting to pass on in every role that I do since. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You know, Don Logan is Iago. Gandhi was a Hamlet who turned into King Lear. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that XUJHQF\WRÂżQGWKHSDWWHUQLQWKHFKDUDFWHU SRVVHVVLW´+HVKUXJVKHOSOHVVO\ â&#x20AC;&#x153;If I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t an actor, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be a loony, stopping people in the street, compelled to pass these WKLQJVRQ´:HFDQDOOEHJUDWHIXOWKDW.LQJVOH\ discovered acting. He was born Krishna Bhanji in Scarborough LQ+LVIDWKHU5DKLPWXOOD+DUML%DQMKL was a doctor of Gujarati descent; his mother, $QQD/\QD0DU\*RRGPDQZDVDQ(QJOLVK model and actress â&#x20AC;&#x201C; â&#x20AC;&#x153;she did some small roles LQ$OH[DQGHU.RUGDÂżOPVRIWKH7ZHQWLHVDQG

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;You know who I am, you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know where I am, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never see me comingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 7KLUWLHV´KHVD\V+HDWWHQGHG0DQFKHVWHU Grammar School in the expectation that he would go to medical school like his father and brother, but he belatedly realised, after scraping through sixth form, that acting was his true vocation. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I had always been the VRQJDQGGDQFHPDQRIWKHIDPLO\´KHVD\V Âł,UHPHPEHUP\IDWKHUUHIHUULQJWRPHDVÂľRXU little Danny Kayeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; when I was about seven. That was the only remotely positive comment I remember from them. They never praised me or acknowledged a gram of talent in me. Their ZD\ZDVWRPRFN¹¾ZKHQDUH\RXJRLQJWR ÂżQLVKZLWKWKLVDFWLQJODUNÂśWKDWVRUWRIWKLQJ My mother, far from being proud, was very MHDORXVRIP\VXFFHVV´

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The other siren songs that young actors are offered today â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the magazines, the adverts, all of that noise and fizz â&#x20AC;&#x201C; lead nowhereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; JHWWLQJEHWWHUDW´ His knighthood, in 2002, also helped in this respect. Mention of it seems to make Kingsley glow. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I told you about my parents, and the fact that any kind of embrace was WRWDOO\DEVHQWIURPP\OLIH´KHVD\VÂł6RWREH embraced by Her Majestyâ&#x20AC;Ś I felt like stopping people in the street, saying my mum loves me, you know. Because thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what it felt like, to PH7KHÂżOOLQJRIDYDFXXPLQWKHXQLYHUVH´ This sense of validation, surely, lies behind the imperishable rumour that Kingsley has, in the past, insisted on being addressed by KLVKRQRULÂżF"%XWRKGHDU+LVIDFHKDV plummeted, along with the temperature in WKHURRPÂł,KDYHQÂśWWRGD\KDYH,"´KHVD\V somewhat narked. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m very sorry you had to bring that up. It was a scurrilous story in a magazine abroad and I continue to be the YLFWLPRILW´ On the one hand, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a shame; heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leaving, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a rather downbeat note to end on. On the other, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s instructive; a glimpse of the RULJLQDOÂłKXUWFKLOG´WKDWÂśVEHHQWKHPRWRU for Gandhi, Don Logan, The Mandarin, and DOOWKRVHRWKHUÂłIUDJPHQWV´WKDWKDYHKHOSHG make Sir Ben Kingsley the actor â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the person â&#x20AC;&#x201C; he is.

- 62 -

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye

7KHUHZHUHIXUWKHUVHWEDFNV.LQJVOH\Ă&#x20AC;HG KLV5$'$DXGLWLRQZKHQRZLQJWRKLVWHUULEOH handwriting, his name was erroneously called DVÂł.ULVWLQD%ODQJH´ KHDQJOLFLVHGLWVKRUWO\ DIWHUZDUGV /DWHUDWWKH56&DSDQMDQGUXP told him he really shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t set his sights any higher than playing a selection of servants. Âł%XWRQHRIP\ÂżUVWSURIHVVLRQDOMREVZDVZLWK D7KHDWUH,Q(GXFDWLRQJURXS´KHUHFDOOV Âł$QGWKLVORYHO\IHPDOHGLUHFWRUDEHDXWLIXO blonde woman who was heavily pregnant â&#x20AC;&#x201C; she was like Mother Earth, God I loved her â&#x20AC;&#x201C; said WRPHÂľ\RXÂśUHJRLQJWREHDJUHDWFODVVLFDO DFWRUÂś,WKRXJKWÂľWKDWÂśVQLFHÂśEXWZKDWVKH actually meant was, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to have to ZRUN\RXUVRFNVRĚ&#x2020;WRJHWZKHUH,WKLQN\RX FRXOGJHW´.LQJVOH\SDLGKLVGXHVWKURXJK local rep theatres and the RSC; Michael $WWHQERURXJK/RUG5LFKDUGÂśVVRQVDZKLV Hamlet and recommended his father see him for Gandhi. â&#x20AC;&#x153;That grindingly hard work seems WREHPLVVLQJIURPWKHHTXDWLRQQRZ´KHVD\V ruefully. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what leads you to a career, and the other siren songs that young actors are RĚ&#x2020;HUHGWRGD\ÂąWKHPDJD]LQHVWKHDGYHUWVDOO RIWKDWQRLVHDQGÂż]]ÂąOHDGQRZKHUH7KDWÂśV why some guys end up overdosing in hotel URRPV´ Thankfully, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fate thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s escaped .LQJVOH\ÂśVVRQV(GPXQGDQG)HUGLQDQG ZKRÂśYHMRLQHGWKHIDPLO\ÂżUPÂł2QHÂśVMXVWKDG a huge season at the National, the other at the 56&´KHVD\VKLVFKHVWVZHOOLQJZLWKSULGH â&#x20AC;&#x153;In contrast to the attitude of my own parents, ZKHQWKH\ÂżQLVKDSLHFHRIZRUNDQG,ÂśPLQ the same building, their ribs are in danger of being crushed. It was a huge relief to me to see they had the gift, and they have a genuine DSSHWLWHIRULW´ More so at this stage, perhaps, than their father, who, for all his extolling of The Bard, appears less than ravenous to return to the boards and the roles of Prospero or Lear. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not striking any chord in me as I sit KHUH´KHVD\V7KLVPLJKWKDYHVRPHWKLQJWR do with Lavender Pictures, the production company he runs with his fourth wife, Daniela Barbosa de Carneiro (a Brazilian-born actor DQGIRUPHUZDLWUHVV\HDUVKLVMXQLRU  KDYLQJVL[ÂżOPVRQWKHLUVODWHLWPD\DOVR have something to do with the fact that his SUHIHUHQFHIRUÂżOPDFWLQJHQFRPSDVVHVLWV strolling-player aspect. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I love to travel, because Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m so deeply rooted at home with my darling wife and my Nobel and magnolia DQGDQFLHQWJUHHQJDJHWUHH´KHVD\VÂł)RUPH itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about balance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; something I think Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m


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Rosetta

Returns

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I try to meditate every day â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it helps you get clear about your prioritiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; RQHRIP\FKLOGUHQZLOOHQGXSEHLQJYHU\LQWHUHVWHGLQ P\EXVLQHVVEXWP\ROGHVWGDXJKWHULVRQO\DQGP\ \HDUROGVRQLVGH¿QLWHO\QRWLQWHUHVWHG:H¶UHDUWLVWV DQGKLSSLHVRYHUKHUH+H¶VVRWKHRSSRVLWHRIXV+H¶V MXVWDOODERXWIDFWVDQGQXPEHUV7KHJLUOV,FDQ¶WUHDOO\ WHOO\HW´ 7KHFRQYHUVDWLRQWXUQVWRWKHDUWVDQG*HWW\¶V FKDULW\ZRUNVRPHWKLQJVKHWDNHVDVVHULRXVO\DVKHU PXVLFLDQKXVEDQGGRHV%DOWKD]DU*HWW\ VRQRI-RKQ 3DXO*HWW\,,,DKLSS\KLPVHOIZKRVSHQW¿YHPRQWKV

RWKHU´*HWW\VD\VRI7KH'RFN¶VIHOORZODEHOV:KHQ DVNHGDERXW:DONHU¶VLQSXWLQWRWKHFUHDWLYHSURFHVVRI 5RVHWWD*HWW\VKHVD\V³1R0DWWLVDPD]LQJDQGJUHDW EXWKH¶VGH¿QLWHO\DEXVLQHVVPDQ´ *HWW\ZDVDOZD\VGHVWLQHGIRUDFDUHHULQIDVKLRQ HYHUVLQFHVKHWUDGHGEDE\VLWWLQJGXWLHVIRUVHZLQJDW DJHGVHYHQ ³REYLRXVO\,GLGQ¶WEDE\VLWE\P\VHOIEXW, ZDWFKHGP\QHLJKERXU¶VNLGVDQGVKHWDXJKWPHKRZ WRVHZ´ :LWKKHULQWHUHVWLQFORWKHVGHVLJQSLTXHGD \HDUROG*HWW\MRLQHGDORFDODUWVFHQWUHZKHUHVKH ZDVDVNHGWRSRVHIRUDOLIHGUDZLQJFODVV$VDUHVXOW RIKHUPRGHOOLQJGHEXWVKHZDVVSRWWHGDQGZHQWRQWR EHFRPHDIDVKLRQPRGHORQWKHLQWHUQDWLRQDOFLUFXLW%XW ZLWKDGHVLUHWREH³PRUHDPDNHUWKDQLQIURQWRIWKH FDPHUD´*HWW\HQUROOHGLQ/$¶VSUHPLHUDUWDQGGHVLJQ VFKRRO2WLV6RRQDIWHUJUDGXDWLRQVKHODXQFKHGKHU ¿UVWODEHO5RVHWWD0LOOLQJWRQ )URPFORWKLQJPDNHUWRKRPHPDNHU*HWW\GHFLGHG QLQH\HDUVODWHUWRVKXWXSVKRSDQGVWDUWDIDPLO\7KHQ - 66 -


LQFDSWLYLW\DVDWHHQDJHU $VLGHIURPKHULQYROYHPHQW LQWKH-3DXO*HWW\0XVHXPIRXQGHGE\%DOWKD]DU¶V JUHDWJUDQGIDWKHU*HWW\KDVVHWXSDIHZSKLODQWKURSLF YHQWXUHVKHUVHOI³,IRXQGHG*LYH/RYHZKLFKLVDQ RUJDQLVDWLRQWKDWDVVLVWVGLVSODFHGFKLOGUHQDQGIDPLOLHV DIWHUWKHHDUWKTXDNHLQ+DLWL,DOVRKDYHEHHQ LQYROYHGZLWK/,)7DQRUJDQLVDWLRQLQ/$WKDWKHOSV EXLOGVWURQJSHUVRQDODQG¿QDQFLDOIRXQGDWLRQVIRU IDPLOLHVLQQHHG´ 6RLQDIDVWSDFHGWUHQGREVHVVHGFLW\OLNH/$KRZ GRHV*HWW\VWD\]HQ"³,KDYHDURXWLQH,PHDQLWLVYHU\ ERULQJEXWLWZRUNV,WU\WRPHGLWDWHHYHU\GD\â&#x20AC;&#x201C; LWKHOSV \RXJHWFOHDUDERXW\RXUSULRULWLHVDQGFRQQHFWRQDUHDO OHYHOZLWKWKLQJVWKDWDUHLPSRUWDQWHVSHFLDOO\ZKHQ \RX¶UHMXJJOLQJDORW$QG,WKLQNZHDOZD\VKDYHWRPDNH RXUIDPLO\WKHSULRULW\´ - 67 -


MOTORING Words: Richard Jenkins

Motor heads The Geneva International Motor Show puts the pedal to the metal Somebody clever once said there are only a few certainties in life. Being gobsmacked by the Geneva Motor Show is one of them. Behold the six most lust-worthy cars unveiled at the Swiss testament to automotive glory.

Lamborghini Huracรกn LP 610-4 The iconic Gallardo is being put out to pasture, and this snorting young bull is taking its place. Stylistically similar to the Aventador, this model is one of the more comfortable rides in the Lamborghini stable. QUICK STATS:

0-60mph: 3.2 seconds Top Speed: 202mph Horsepower: 626

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Bentley Continental GT Speed You’re looking at the fastest production Bentley ever made. That’s right, the venerable British manufacturer has managed to squeeze even more power from the iconic Continental. QUICK STATS:

0-60mph: 4.0 seconds Top Speed: 206mph Horsepower: 626

Koenigsegg One:1 Supercars are old hat. Hypercars are where the future is. This Swedish monster produces one horsepower for every kilogram of the car’s weight (hence the name), and only six are being made – and unfortunately, they’ve all got buyers. QUICK STATS:

0-60mph: Untested Top Speed: 279mph Horsepower: 1400

Audi TT Quattro Sport Can it really be 16 years VLQFHWKH¿UVW$XGL77 rolled out? This new concept model takes the classic shape and turns it into a performance machine capable of impressing even the most hardened of sports car owners – and outpacing the R8, to boot. QUICK STATS:

0-60mph: 3.7 seconds Top Speed: Untested Horsepower: 420

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MOTORING

McLaren 650S Taking the 12C setup and cranking everything up as high as it would go produced this, the gorgeous 650S. McLaren says it has taken all its learnings from the 12C and the P1 and poured them into this â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and it shows. QUICK STATS:

0-60mph: 3.0 seconds Top Speed: 207mph Horsepower: 650

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Ferrari California T The T, of course, stands for “turbocharged” which the Italian marque hasn’t used since the legendary F40 in the late 1980s. A huge engine in a modernised four-seater cabin gives this new road car fearsome statistics. QUICK STATS:

0-60mph: 3.6 seconds Top Speed: 195mph Horsepower: 552 - 71 -


GASTRONOMY

E

ver eaten a sevencourse dinner, then felt like going out and running a marathon? No? Then you probably havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enjoyed a night in one of Heinz Beckâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurants. The German-born chef insists that his food not only tastes good, it does you good. His latest venture, Social by Heinz Beck, is found on the eastern wing of the splendid Waldorf Astoria on Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Palm Jumeirah. Heinz tells AIR: â&#x20AC;&#x153;[Social is] a little bit more close to the people. Not WRRVWLĚ&#x2020;QRWWRRIRUPDOÂąLWÂśVGH IRUPDOLVHGÂżQHGLQLQJ<RXFDQFRPH to the big tables; you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to wear a cravat and a suit. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a much more casual service. But donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget, SHRSOHJRWRDUHVWDXUDQWWRHDWÂąVR the food has to be perfect.â&#x20AC;? Perfect food is what Beck is undoubtedly most famous for at his stunning Roman restaurant, La Pergola. After 15 years of nothing EXWVXFFHVVÂąQRWWRPHQWLRQ securing the only three Michelin VWDUUDWLQJLQ5RPHÂąZK\QRZWDNH on Dubai? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dubai is one of the most challenging scenes of gastronomy in the world,â&#x20AC;? he explains, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was thinking about going overseas and VWDUWLQJZLWKWKH0LGGOH(DVWÂąDQG if you want the Middle East, Dubai is the destination. Dubai is a booming area. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very interesting, and the climate is very nice.â&#x20AC;? Conscious that for todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s busy diner every minute counts, Beck has pioneered an ingenious method of ensuring that his guests are kept in peak condition. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not one thing thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important, like â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;eat more antioxidants and you will feel goodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. After a meal here you will not arrive home and think â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I am too tired to even brush my teethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. And you know why? Because it was healthy, prepared cooking. The emotions were there, the taste is there, the IRRGLVWKHUHÂąWKHTXDQWLW\LVWKHUH but you are not feeling tired.â&#x20AC;? At this point, the chef begins an animated mime routine, including

Social

COMMENTARY Heinz Beck wants to make you feel good Words: Richard Jenkins

stomach pats and gulps of air, to explain why this is. â&#x20AC;&#x153;What happens when you are eating is you have to burn the food. To burn the food in your body, to digest it, you need oxygen. If you have badly prepared food, you need more power to digest. So you need more oxygen in the stomach. The oxygen is coming only through the blood, so you have an accumulation of a lot

as possible and laden with seafood and vegetables, gets the job done. Airy spaghetti with rich lobster, couscous made with peppers and garnished with succulent tempura tiger prawns, and a touch-soft lamb rack with a hint of zingy mint are highlights from a carefully orchestrated list. Asking Beck what the most exciting things on the menu are is asking for short shrift. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Did

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;If there is a young boy coming to me, or a Prime Minister, he gets the same serviceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of blood in your upper belly, and all the blood is missing in the rest of the body so your brain will have less oxygenation, and your brain LVEHFRPLQJWLUHGÂąDQGWKHQ\RX start to yawn. Integrating more air into your body, more oxygen, is the point.â&#x20AC;? Socialâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu, sourced as locally - 72 -

you ever ask a mother what is her preferred kid?â&#x20AC;? he bristles. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If I put it on the menu, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right. There are certain things I want to put on the menu that I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t yet because Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m still not there with the ingredients or WKHHTXLSPHQWEXWZKDWZHKDYHRQ WKHPHQXLVSHUIHFWÂą,DPDEOHWRGR it perfectly. No prisoners! There is


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GASTRONOMY

- 74 -


no compromise. There is much more to come, however.â&#x20AC;? Despite being a favourite of First Lady Michelle Obama, Beck is bullish in his insistence that every diner gets treated the same. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have only one guest. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have two guests,â&#x20AC;? he says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;If there is a young boy coming to me, or a Prime Minister, he gets the same service. In my restaurant in Rome, the table plan is done by reservations. Nobody gets a special table because of whom he is. People ask me, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;which is your preferred guest?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; and I say â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the nextâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.â&#x20AC;? That said, the chef isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t completely ruthless when it comes to customer

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VHUYLFHDQGDÂżQDOVWRU\VXPV up why his charm as much as his cooking skills have brought him such success. He says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Very often we have young boys aged 22 or 25, and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m so happy if they come. If I see that a ER\LVEULQJLQJKLVÂżDQFpHKHÂśVQRW ULFKDQGDOLWWOHELWLQWLPLGDWHGÂąZH are doing everything to make him happy. And if we see perhaps he didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t order too much, or perhaps he would like to have more, I am sending something more out without charging. These kinds of things are YHU\KXPDQÂąLWÂśVQLFHWRKDYHWKHVH kinds of people as well, and this is what I believe in. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not the title that makes a person important.â&#x20AC;?


TRAVEL

THE

BEAUTIFUL SOUTH New Zealand’s stunning South Island has welcomed three new luxury lodges. AIR takes a look around…

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Lodge at The Hills Arrowtown In 2007, avid golfer and one of New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most successful businessmen, Sir Michael Hill, transformed a former deer farm, 20 minutes from the centre of Queenstown, into a world-class championship golf course. Set in a glacial valley and surrounded by snow-capped mountains, Sir Michael recently added a luxurious lodge ZLWKVZDWKHVRIĂ&#x20AC;RRUWRFHLOLQJJODVV so you can make the most of those views. Sleeping up to 12, the lodge IHDWXUHVVL[OLJKWÂżOOHGVXLWHVZLWK HDUWK\GpFRUDQGFRV\ÂżUHSODFHV Communal spaces range from grand galleries with soaring ceilings to intimate nooks for quiet contemplation. Walls are adorned with early Maori and contemporary New Zealand art, while the sprawling sculpture park includes installations by Chinese artist Liu Ruowang and English-born sculptor Max Patte. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a state-of-the-art spa with tailored treatments, and a Michelintrained chef to cook gourmet meals of local delicacies such as lamb DQGVDOPRQSOXVDKHDWHGLQÂżQLW\ pool, grass tennis court, and SULYDWHSXWWLQJJUHHQ*RÂżVKLQJ IRUEOXHFRGDQGFDWFKFUD\ÂżVKLQ WKHQHDUE\ÂżRUGVSOD\XQOLPLWHG golf at The Hills course, or take a helicopter to Oreti Sands, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s southernmost links course, to play a round accompanied by a pro golfer. Just make sure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re back in time to watch the sun set over your sublime surroundings. thehills.co.nz

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TRAVEL

Annandale Banks Peninsula ,I\RXÂśUHORRNLQJWRGURSRĚ&#x2020;WKH radar, this 4,000-acre sheep and cattle farm, an hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s drive from Christchurch, is the place to escape to. Overlooking Pigeon Bay, the FKDUPLQJÂżYHEHGURRPKRPHVWHDG built in the 1880s and lovingly restored, lies at the heart of the estate. Or take your pick from four characterful villas, all uniquely GLĚ&#x2020;HUHQWGRWWHGDFURVVWKHIDUP

Our pick is the romantic Seascape Villa, set on its own private bay with just a pod of frolicking Hectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dolphins for company. Accessed by helicopter or by a 40-minute 4WD transfer, this ultra-modern villa seamlessly combines indoor and outdoor living, with a wall of ZLQGRZVRĚ&#x2020;HULQJXQLQWHUUXSWHG ocean views â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even the bathroom has an arrowslit window so you can spy on the seals â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and an outdoor -DFX]]LDQGÂżUHSODFH If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re feeling active, there - 78 -

are several spectacular hiking and biking tracks along the rugged 3DFLÂżFFRDVWOLQHDVZHOODVND\DNLQJ SDGGOHERDUGLQJÂżVKLQJDQG sailing. Get into the swing of rural life with spot of cattle mustering or sheep shearing and then have a private farm-to-table cooking lesson with the award-winning chef. Finish up with a wander around the )UHQFKLQĂ&#x20AC;XHQFHGWRZQRI$NDURD half an hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s drive away. Life doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get more blissful than this. annandale.com


Opened in 2010, the lodge has 11 elegant suites all with private EDOFRQ\DQGÂżUHSODFHEXWLWÂśVWKH newly opened, US$5 million Ownerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cottage that has caught our eye. Located just minutes from the Every room of the four-bedroom adventure capital of New Zealand â&#x20AC;&#x201C; home to bungee jumping, whitewater house â&#x20AC;&#x201C; including the outdoor -DFX]]LÂąDĚ&#x2020;RUGVVSHFWDFXODUYLHZV rafting, jet boating, and more â&#x20AC;&#x201C; of the glacial lake and jagged peaks things move at an altogether slower of The Remarkables mountain range. pace at Matakauri Lodge. Set on the VKRUHVRI/DNH:DNDWLSXDQGĂ&#x20AC;DQNHG And acclaimed New Zealand interior designer Virginia Fisher has created by pine forest, the serene setting a warm and inviting space in which inspires total relaxation, although to savour the Alpine scenery. youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be itching to explore.

Matakauri Lodge Queenstown

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Guests have access to the spa, gym and pool in the main lodge and a personal concierge is on hand to help you plan your days â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from adrenaline-fuelled activities to more VHGDWHH[SHULHQFHVVXFKDVĂ&#x20AC;\ÂżVKLQJ or a photography safari â&#x20AC;&#x201C; while a private chef will create gourmet dinners. With a private jet terminal set to open later this month at Queenstown Airport, getting there will be easier, too. Get your kicks in Queenstown, then recover at this wonderful retreat. matakauri.co.nz


LIFE LESSONS

WHAT I KNOW NOW

Gerald Lawless

President and Group CEO, Jumeirah Group

The best piece of advice I was given was from my parents, and it was more an instruction than advice: ‘you’ll start working in hotel management’. I started at a hotel college in Ireland. It was a FRXUVHLQWHUVSHUVHGZLWKVRPHUHDOO\H̆HFWLYH internships, which I think is a great way to learn an industry. It’s always good if a hotel manager is able to tell a kitchen porter that he too has washed dishes. To have experienced it and understand it gives you a real sense of the value of every single job within a business. There’s a science and an art and a skill to every job, no matter how basic it is. At Jumeirah, we established at the very beginning what we call the hallmarks of the business. They’re pretty basic and there are three of them. I’ve never allowed there to be more than three, and I’ve never agreed that they can be substantially changed. They are: we will always greet our guests before they greet XVDVD¿UVWUHVSRQVHWRDJXHVW¶V request we will never say no; we treat each other as colleagues with respect and integrity. That last one for me is very important in our industry, because a guest feels the atmosphere of a workplace. No matter how long you’ve been in a job you’re learning all the time. One of the deeply held principles I have is that you need to hire people who are better than you. It keeps you sharp and the whole RUJDQLVDWLRQEHQH¿WV If you don’t put the hours in it’s very hard to succeed. A good work ethic, coupled with self belief, without arrogance, is key.

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Discover Luxury

The largest selection of genuine 19th century French antiques in the region, 19th Century Antiques includes rare furniture, bronzes, paintings, clock sets, and vases of exceptional quality and taste.

JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS, BOULEVARD | DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 3887000 FAX: +971 4 3887111 | WWW.19CENTURYANTIQUES.COM



AIR Gama Aviation Apr'14