Issue No. 1 - Between the Lines

Hook d NO. 1

fashion | Beauty | Culture | Lifestyle

Editor-in-Chief Dana Tran Managing Editor Sumer Brito Managing Editor Aanchal Vohra Head Fashion Editor Madee Feltner Assistant Editor Bryn Palmer Assistant Editor Anahi Chavero Assistant Editor Sienna Johnson Marketing Manager Merritt Fish Assistant Marketing Manager Kiran Patel Assistant Marketing Manager Ava Meurer Events Coordinator Sarah Joung Graphic Designer Sharlene Bobadilla Makeup Artist Nandita Malhotra Head of Photography Alana Park

Liz Moctezuma, Madison Sanchez, Izabella Martinez, Nataly Mata, Joyati Modak, Jacob Ramirez, Jamie Roy, Ryleigh Wilcox, Elain Yao, Twinkle Khanna, Mia Brown, Ella Wells, Daniella Janolo, Ana Brown, Ashley Willis, Puja Satish, Maria Ferzoco, Aleena Ijaz, Ashley Guzman, Arshia Malik, Naima Huereca, Payton Hall, Claire Blanchard, Clara Truax, Ashley Omehe

Young, Broke, Traveling..............................................4 The Thrill of The Thrift.............................................14 Fabricated Authenticity............................................22 Natural Beauty is Forever........................................26 The Staircase of Wealth...........................................28 LGBTQ & Drag Community.....................................32 Pakistan on Film.........................................................34 Imposter.......................................................................38 Tokyo............................................................................44 Reading Between the Binds.....................................52 Sisterhood of the Traveling Sari............................60 Fashion Backwards....................................................64 The Growing Presence of South Asian Creatives ........................................................................................70 Signature......................................................................76 The Power of a Pantsuit...........................................86

T O C

RYLEIGH Wilcox

YOUNG, BROKE

TRAVELING

The great American road trip has always been considered stories of legends. Getting the car packed to the brim and heading out into unknown territory has always felt so enticing, yet out of reach.

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Photographer Karla Villegas Models Jamie Roy & Rebekah Verghese Author Ryleigh Cox

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efore the realities of adulthood have fully set in, the world is yours to conquer...

This is a chance to see, feel, and live moments that inspire you.

Your obligations back home can wait, the world is out there and ready for you to take it on.

Let the journey commence...

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Travel is ONLY AS FU

the

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UN AS

e people When choosing who to embark on your travels with, there are some questions you should ask yourself. Does this person push your limits? Are they open to all the new experiences that may come your way? Do you want someone who is spontaneous or someone who will keep you grounded? Is this the person I want to create lasting memories with? When in doubt, these are the questions that could make all the difference when choosing your perfect travel partner.

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Time for

the Fun

to Begin...

Whether it be Zion National Park or Horseshoe Bend, there are certain steps to take in order to have the best experience. Once you’ve figured out your desired destinations, it’s time to do some research on the nearest campgrounds or find Airbnbs that are in close proximity. It is quite well known that most young people are not necessarily flourishing financially, but road tripping doesn’t have to be a financial burden. The experiences and memories are worth so much more than tangible objects. The thing about trips like these is that they can bring out the spontaneity in even the most meticulous people. So, while plans are important, remember that changing them is okay. If you have one more place you want to see before heading back home, do it. There is no rush; life back home can wait a few days longer.

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This past summer, before settling into college life—filled with assignments and exams— my best friend and I decided to pack what little we could fit into a 1999 Suburban and set off for Arizona. Over the next five days, we lived out of the back of an SUV, which was not the most comfortable, but it didn’t matter. Those five days were the first time we got to feel true freedom from our everyday responsibilities. We got to drive through the red desert that is Arizona and take in the new surroundings and enjoy the views along with the endless car jam sessions.

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Sometimes regular everyday life can become repetitive and dull, but when you see steep, beautiful red canyons carved over thousands of years, there’s this inexplicable jolt of life that you forget is there. You forget that the 20 square miles of whatever town you live in are not the edges of your universe; going on trips like these reminds you that life can be anything you want. It can revive that childlike wonder, that feeling of pure amazement we may have lost from our childhoods. Now I know that the feeling of wonder is not meant to be left in our childhoods, it was just somehow forgotten in the process of growing up. After that trip, I learned to keep that inner child-like mentality close to the surface because really, kids always have the most fun.

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Photographer Becky Stubbs Model & Author Madee Feltner

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The automatic doors fly open, giving way to a breeze of fanned air against my heated skin as the distinct, yet pungent, antique scent overtakes me immediately upon entrance. “Welcome in” says the friendly and oddly familiar cashier. Overplayed radio music blares on the vintage megaphone speakers mounted to the half-peeled, poorly painted walls, as the sharp squeal of metal hangers shift against the endless rows of clothing racks. This is the thrift store.

For as long as I can remember, my family and I have always enjoyed going thrifting -sometimes to find a replacement pair of jeans that just ripped, other times to waste an hour and see what we can find. Some days we would even have competitions to see who was wearing the most articles of thrifted clothing. There was, and still is, a stigma surrounding the purchase of used clothing. Thrifting used be something people looked down upon because it was not the fibers to the environment, such conventional way of shopping. as polyester or acrylic, which The clothing came with the release microplastics into the presence of previous wearers environment during their and was kept in the “crowded washing cycle. Because these and dirty” environment of a microplastics have such small thrift shop. Nowadays, it is a dimensions, parts of them are mainstream way of shopping for able to pass through wastewater many young adults. This is treatment plants and end up because thrifting allows you to directly in the ocean. Even find unique pieces for though donating to thrift stores affordable prices while is a better option for companies shopping sustainably.

The than disposing or incinerating, thought of bringing life back only around 15% of all donated into a piece that has already clothing ends up on a thrift been worn brings me so much store’s shelves due to the mass joy, as there is always so much amount of items being donated history behind an item of by the community. clothing that you thrift.

Sustainability has become a While some thrift stores now more prevailing issue for have prices similar to fast shoppers today. The rise of fast fashion retailers such as Forever fashion retailers, who put out 21 or H&M, you are able to get new garments for sale every higher quality pieces that will week, are not only bad for the last a lot longer while not environment, But also provokes supporting fast fashion unsafe working conditions in businesses.

Lower quality their supply chain and relies clothing produced by fast on insufficient compensation fashion businesses leads to a and child labor. The consistent significant increase in the stream of new products into the amount of clothing that ends up market has caused in landfills, as it is not able to overconsumption amongst withstand many wears and consumers, which only drives washing cycles. Thrifting also the need for more product to be allows you to get pieces that developed. This rise in don’t contain harmful consumption has led to an increase in pollution, fashion waste, and the use of sweatshops. Many synthetic of these clothing companies outsource their labor to sweatshops in developing countries where it

is cheaper and labor laws are more relaxed. This causes there to be lower wages, a disregard for basic safety laws, violence in the workplace, and the increased use of child labor. Because there is such a mass amount of clothing being produced, textile manufacturing has become a major energy consumer and greenhouse gas emitter. Heat, transportation, and electricity are some of the major energy users in the fashion industry. Many textile factories dump toxic chemicals, usually from fabric dyes, into nearby rivers, causing them to be uninhabitable for fish and animals and unable to be utilized as drinking water for nearby communities. In addition to this, Clothes created by these fast fashion companies are not high quality, so they will not last a long time in someone’s closet; they are usually trendy pieces which fall out of style quickly. As a result, most of the clothes produced by fast fashion retailers end up in landfills and incinerators shortly after they are produced, causing a surge in pollution caused by the fashion industry.

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As a college student... i t c a n b e r e a l ly d i f f i c u lt t o b e a b l e t o a f f o r d s u

That’s one reason I really enjoy thrifting and upcycling clothes.

However, when I do feel like splurging on a new piece, I do have a few brands that I tend to keep coming back to.

Reformation A well-known brand that makes a conscious effort to reduce water usage, waste, and energy footprints in their supply chain. They are also working towards having net-zero carbon emissions. You can shop this brand for form-fitting tops and chic dresses in floral prints and solids, as well as a wide array of jeans.

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Girlfriend

An activewear brand th mostly recycled mate water bottles and fish keep these materials o shop this brand for b sets in many different

s ta i n a b l e o p t i o n s a n d s u p p o r t l o c a l b u s i n e s s e s .

Collective

hat has pieces made of erials such as plastic hing nets, which helps out of landfills. You can butter-soft activewear colorways.

Patagonia An outdoor-minded, eco-friendly brand that is very involved in environmental activism and is widely known for its soft and cozy fleece wear. In addition, they have lots of activewear options to choose from for activities ranging anywhere from hiking to yoga.

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Aurate A fine jewelry company that uses 100% recycled gold and is sustainably handmade by craftsmen domestically in New York City.

You can shop this brand for timeless jewelry pieces that are meant to last a lifetime and be passed on from generation to generation.

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mej

A fine jewelry company tha fine jewelry, not just on speci use a mix of both recycled an materials and believe in tran and towards the community. and classic gold accessories t

uri

t empowers individuals to wear ial occasions, but every day. They nd artisanally mined gold for their nsparency, both environmentally . Shop this brand for both trendy that will last a lifetime.

split shirt A brand that was created by two UT students that uses 100% recycled textiles in order to give more life to pieces and subtract from textile waste. Shop this brand to find custom color-blocked, upcycled button down tops.

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In addition to shopping from sustainable brands, there are also companies that allow you to borrow and return clothes. Rent the Runway is a company that has a multitude of different pieces in stock and allows you to rent clothing, either for everyday-wear or special occasions. This is a great option for those who need special occasion wear, as it allows you to use clothing that has already been produced, so you’re not contributing to textile waste; it is a more affordable option versus having to fully purchase a garment that you will only wear once.

There are many different ways that you can shop sustainably, some of the options being thrifting, upcycling, shopping locally from sustainable brands, or even making your own clothes. With the rise of free information available online today, you have the opportunity to research brands before purchasing from them and educating yourself on the negative effects of the fashion industry. Who knows, maybe what you learn will even inspire you to buy a sewing machine or take up crocheting. All I know is that I’m patiently awaiting my knitting needles to come in the mail so I can start creating pieces entirely by myself without having to buy into the ever-so-harmful fashion industry.

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Fabricated

Authenticity Dana Tran

We often hear stories of young people from small suburban towns that make rash decisions to move to the big city, hoping to seize better opportunities and along the way, run into some big spectacle that will hint to them of their “purpose”. No matter how you look at it, the endings are overromanticized. The big move to the city is not as glamorous as movie producers make it out to be, nor does the city guarantee some big spectacle. If the city is anything, it’s a giant slap in the face that reality is in fact not pretty most of the time.

The truth is that we cannot all live in pauper penthouses and drive luxury limos, take weekends off to Palm Springs and pick out presents at Saks on 5th Avenue for Christmas. It is easy to be taken aback by the opulence and invigoration that movie producers and the mainstream media portray, however it should be noted that just off of 5th ten blocks north are the tents of a huge population of homeless people bunkering down for the night in the freezing cold, however New York is not the only city victim to this. We are accustomed to believing that even in the worst of conditions, beauty can always blossom, although that is definitely a point to consider as human beings who flourish from hardship but have we yet to consider that maybe it is the ugly that dwells in the most beautiful places?

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Photographer Kaitlyn Tran Model Dana Tran

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As Marilyn Monroe put it, in Hollywood, a girl’s virtue is much less important than her hairdo. It is true that from the outside looking in, Hollywood was the place to be if you strive for “overnight fame” or just to sell your soul to the devil for the recognition of the masses. But the entertainment industry is far from what is produced on movie screens.

Whether it was bribing the right person to get your foot in the door with THE producer or adhering to the taxing demands of desperate publicists to uphold the image that puts millions of dollars into the pockets of greedy corporations with brand deals attached to your name, behind all the glitz and glamour it gets ugly and uglier. I would agree that the industry has come a long way from what it used to be, and although that may be the case, I would argue that it has definitely evolved with the times without exactly extinguishing its drawbacks. The only difference now is that you don’t need to make the trip out to Hollywood to claim your overnight fame, rather you can do so from the comfort of your own bed. It’s something we all crave. The desire to be recognized by others for who we are or who we want to be. To be praised for our accomplishments and empathized for our struggles. To have our egos boosted would be enough serotonin to last until the next time we were lacking it, but even then, what is the turnaround rate for always wanting more? In a world where ugliness dwells in the most beautiful places. I can’t help but ask myself, when did authenticity become so…fabricated?

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Photographer David Hellmers

Models Izabella Martinez &

& Jeanette Hoelscher

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Photographer Fredxy Media Models Ava Perez & Jamie Roy Author Jamie Roy

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The Staircase of

WEALTH By:JamieRoy The definition of wealth to some can mean not worrying about checking their bank account balance before a quick shopping spree. To others, it's an abundance of something, maybe friends, knowledge, or even expertise in a skill. To the rest, it's simply based on levels of happiness. As all these can rein true to be the wealthiest parts of life; they all qualify as symbols of status. One's status in society can determine many aspects of their life: how they're treated, what they wear, where they go, even who they spend time with regularly. However, this class system isn't necessarily something that is a choice. The terms “old money” and “new money” describe the differences in wealth regarding culture, lifestyle, or fashion trends.

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Those with inherited, generational wealth are classified as old money. In contrast, new money, or nouveau riche, comprises those whose fortune is acquired either by being “self-made” or through first-generation success. A prime example of this phenomenon is the comparison of the royal family and the Kardashians. Each of their family names has determined their destiny and members of both heirs to the throne of generational wealth. Like a pair of shoes, old money is worn because it's comfortable while new is for keeping clean showing off. Fashion in new money is considered to be flashier, louder, and unmistakably designer. On the old money side, clothing is more classy, elegant, and subtle. Those with new money tend to pay for a designer item, even if it is just for a recent trend, no matter the cost. money handlers, however, tend to bargain. This suggests that those with new money are standardized not to preserve their cash as well as those with old money heritage.I have yet to meet someone that mirrors me in phenotype, but I have since grown into my own skin. I no longer view my differences as insecurites, but as a uniqueness that, bound by birth, has controlled my experiences. Growing up with two contrasting cultures, lifestyles, and families enlightened my later encounters. I respect my different backgrounds and have learned that comparison to others, whether positive or negative, can only be unwelcoming.

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Spotlight: LGBTQ & Drag Community

Alana Park

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rowing up, I never really understood fashion. People talked about it in such grand terms, as a form of self-expression, a way to feel closer to your identity. Until recently, I’d never really thought much about my personal style, and I certainly never viewed it as a grand statement about my identity or myself. Since then, I’ve made some strides in understanding fashion. I’ve also learned that I am gay. Recently for the first time, I put on an outfit thatmade me overwhelmingly me, something I had never gotten from fashion before. This outfit also felt very gay. It still feels surreal to be able to say that I’m gay, and dressing in ways that show that I am gives me that same feeling. Dressing like this gives me much more confidence than I’d ever had before I was out and even before I was out to myself. Because of this experience, I wanted to take a microscope to the relationship between fashion and LGBTQ+ identities through the eyes of a few different LGBTQ+ individuals with various sexual orientations, gender identities, and backgrounds.

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Drag Drag is an exaggerated performance of gender expression through the use of fashion. It is one of the most exaggerated and explicit uses of fashion to express identity. Because of this, it is a great place to start. Christopher Del Carpio (any pronouns, gender-fluid and gay), a successful drag queen who performs under the name Celia Light, started a drag show at Dobie Twenty21, a private UT dorm. He stated that “[drag] just makes me feel like, this is correct, this other side of me is still me. I feel at peace and like myself.” Del Carpio also said that when he wears masculine clothes out of drag, they don’t make him feel less like himself; instead, doing drag just allows him to express another side of himself. This is the power of drag, and a common thread in the power of self-expression through fashion. Other forms of expression in the LGBTQ+ community are individual, personal celebrations of identity or rebellions against heteronormativity, but drag is the big party. Drag is inherently social. Everyone is invited to scale their individual pride into the spectacle. Drag allows drag queens to break deep set walls that we have placed around fashion, boundaries that fall along traditional gender lines.

Harlòt (they/them, nonbinary and gay), another drag queen in the Austin area, said doing drag allowed them to realize that they are nonbinary. The theme of moving past deep-seated biases by moving into extremes has been a constant for ages. Taking things far away from ourselves and our everyday lives makes it so we are able to truly examine them. Today we can see this theme in fashion, through the tradition of drag. Free from arbitrary rules that govern day-to-day styles, drag allows people to find themselves through expression to the extreme. One of the most challenging parts of being LGBTQ+ is expressing yourself without inviting hate or attacks from those with biases against us. Drag creates constructive, caring, spaces for LGBTQ+ people to learn about themselves. It allows people to get close to and celebrate their identities, a vital gift to the community as a whole.

Women Who Love Women (WLW) Veronica Mieres (she/her, bi) succinctly said, “There’s a lot more freedom in style in the LGBTQ+ community because you’re already existing outside of societal norms because of your identity, so why follow societal standards for anything else? Just wear what you want. Just have fun.” This is an excellent interpretation and explanation of the flexibility of styles and looks within the LGBTQ+ community. This flexibility is very present in WLW. There are a large range of clothes that WLW identifies with, identifies as queer, and enjoy wearing, but within this range, there are some common threads. One of these is citing funky earrings as either their gayest clothes or the ones they use to try to demonstrate their queerness to others. Other regularly mentioned items and looks include cuffed jeans, boots, vintage style, denim or flannel jackets, colorful clothes, rings, and more baggy or loose clothes. Some of these are traditionally masculine and others subvert traditional feminine fashion and styles. Either way, they help us express our identities, both as WLW and otherwise, in ways that are unique and personal to us. This type of clothing has many different purposes based on the person wearing it. For some their personal style and what they feel most comfortable and true to themselves in just naturally falls into this category. Others actively take into mind trying to show others their sexuality with dressing while some are a combination of the two. There are some pieces and outfits that just seem gay (used here as a blanket term), they make you feel like you look gay and are gay when you wear them. Some tend towards these pieces because they feel most like themselves in and overall prefer pieces that make them feel this way. More still do not fall into any of these categories or choose not to be visibly gay through their fashion choices. Ultimately, everyone’s journey with their sexuality, style, and coming out are 100% unique to them, and every one of them is equally valid. However, a lot of WLW are able to find comfort in their style in the processes of both accepting their identity and feeling closer to their community.

Men Who Love Men One gay man, Aaron (he/him, gay) cited some different items that he enjoyed and that made him feel very connected to his identity.

Aaron also said he didn't wear them out in public much. The MLM I interviewed said they do sometimes wear clothes that showcase their identities, but they seemed to do so less than others I interviewed.

The historical evolution of fashion trends for men and women likely have something to do with this. The history of women’s clothing evolving toward androgyny is much longer than the corresponding history for men’s clothing. Norms in masculine fashion and culture mean that men are more likely to be accused of being gay, regardless of actual orientation, based on clothing.

Clothes that are marketed toward men also have less variety, and this often excludes less masculine clothing. However, MLM have developed ways to use their style to help them feel more confident in their identities and express themselves in a way that is distinct from WLW. Aaron specifically pointed toward cropped tops and hoodies, as well as cropped jean shorts, as clothes that make him feel gay. A UT student, Adam (he/him, bi) pointed toward wearing earrings as something that he uses to show and feel connected to his being bi. He said of wearing earrings, “It makes me feel that I have the freedom to dress the way I want and to express myself whichever way I please.” He says that this style has allowed him to understand and become closer to his identity as a bi man, as the freedom to dress however he wants mirrors the freedom to love who he wants. Fashion has helped MLM like Adam feel empowered in their journeys with their sexuality. Fashion is an impressively powerful tool, and it has real effects on not only the way people perceive each other, but the way we perceive ourselves. This holds true for mlm.

Non-binary Compared to other people I interviewed, non-binary people seemed to feel most strongly that fashion was important to their journeys with their identities. Clothing and fashion are deeply gendered. Where gay men and women blur the lines between traditionally masculine and feminine clothes, non-binary people tend toward evicerating it. Mariel Smietana (they/them, queer) said that the x factor that makes an outfit or style feel queer is “subverting expectations and tropes and wearing what you want to in a beautiful way that is unique to you.” This insightful explanation can be applied to the entire LGBTQ+ community, but is especially true of non-binary people. Many of the people I talked to do use gendered looks to some degree by shifting between traditionally feminine, masculine, and androgynous styles. This shifting does not necessarily have anything to do with the gender of the person wearing that style. In gender-fluid folks, they may actively dress to the gender they are feeling more attuned to that day. However, other non-binary people dress purely based on what they like and what makes them feel good outside of the clothing’s gendered connotations. One of the people I spoke to told me about their affinity for dresses. For them, this was not because they wanted to look or feel like a girl, but rather because of the skirt spinning capabilities (which I can certainly sympathise with). Others work more to achieve an entirely androgynous look that can allow them to present themselves as outside of the gender bianary and encourage others to percieve them that way too. Either way, every non-binary person I talked to identified their style as an important step in understanding their identity, expressing their identity, or both.

Fashion can help LGBTQ+ people learn about and come to terms with their identities. It also helps many people feel closer to the community, as their style may be identifiable to others that are also LGBTQ+, and clothing is something many people can bond over. Self-expression is incredibly important, and being able to be comfortable and proud of who you are is even more so. Fashion is an unexpected tool for many, but can make a great impact on people's comfort with their own identities and sharing them with others, especially for those that are members of the LGBTQ+ community. We can connect with each other and ourselves through the clothes we wear and the importance of that ability cannot be overstated. Small but pervasive comments allude to a shared culture, and fashion is just another way to answer: Do you cuff your jeans? Do you listen to girl in red? This sort of thing is important because it's a way that we can share our identities with others and have pride while staying safe and connected. Having this type of understanding with an entire community you are a part of can really help you connect to them, as well as yourself. It feels good to be yourself and be free to be yourself and being able to wear whatever we want to show our identities (or not) is a symbol of that freedom.

pakistan on film Sumer Brito

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There’s a unique beauty to the landscape of Pakistan.

A country encompassed by diverse terrains and architecture - it’s a hidden gem within the depths of South Asia. Its architectural foundation pays homage to its Mogul predecessors- the ever-grand Badshahi mosque towering the skyline of old Lahore. Sheesh mahal- the palace of mirrors- guarded by the large barricading doors of Lahore fort all composed by the visionary, Emperor Shah Jahan.

badshahi mosque

Past the period of its golden era- Pakistan’s contemporary buildings continue to reflect its era of the British Raj, with its Victorian and Baroque styles, blended with the country’s Indian-Islamic components. Greco-style columns with wood encasing the infrastructure have remained today, even after the violence and turmoil that came with partition. Every brick placed on each heritage building narrates a story- a story once told by the architect of the Taj Mahal, a story told by a new wave of Indo-Saracenic revival style developed by the mixture of European and Islamic components.

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islamabad

lahore 37

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IMPOSTER IMPOSTER IMPOSTER IMPOSTER IMPOSTER IMPOSTER

SWIPE. INSERT. BUY. CHECKOUT. CONFIRM. CONFIRMATION EMAILS. DELIVERY UPDATES. The excitement of seeing a UPS truck outside your window followed by a ding dong! A box waiting on your doorstep. Opening a cash register. Hearing the crackles of a plastic bag. Swooning to the sound of change hitting the palm of your hand. Telling the cashier, “Thank you! Have a nice day.”

Scrolling through endless stimuli vying to influence our perceptions and values, we might catch a glimpse of a girl boasting a new bustier she bought off of Victoria’s Secret on TikTok or an influencer rocking a tennis skirt from Shein on Instagram. Trends are fickle but demand is always high. Production is often the same. The US EPA estimates that over 9 million tons of clothing and footwear ended up in landfills in 2018. It is projected that these numbers will only continue to soar; for as long as the market for cheap products exists, there will be producers in the supply chain willing to fulfill its demands.

Stacey is 15 years old. Although she may not be aware of it, her browsing history, buying patterns, contact information, and location data have been mined. Large corporations such as Google and Facebook have compiled a profile of her interests, transforming her identity and data into a commodity that could be bought by those who desire a spot in the virtual marketplace. After only searching up the item once, Stacey begins to notice ads for Victoria’s Secret bustiers whenever she watches a YouTube video or reads an online article. The retailers who notice the rise in popularity of their bustier have a vested interest in selling it for a higher price. Utilizing their own warehouses, inventory, and manpower, they are able produce, ship and deliver the bustier to Stacey’s door within two business days at a steep price of $150.

Nothing is a secret in the e-commerce ecosystem. Other retailers know they can make a bustier of similar build with cheaper materials, cheaper labor, and slower shipping for only a third of the cost. Stacey sees this opportunity to reap all the benefits of the aesthetic without the downside of the price. She makes the purchase and joins as a consumer of a multibillion dollar industry that is fast fashion. Once the Staceys of the world no longer optically view the bustier as trendy, the entire production line must end. However, thanks to the modern advancements of the assembly line, the gap between the amount of product produced and the decline in sales often means much of these clothes go to waste. This is the essence of fast fashion.

When confronted with this reality, we often feel guilty. Those willing to even make a change decide on conscious consumerism as their choice of activism, but that also may not make a difference either.

The truth is that I am a Stacey. If you asked for my opinion nine months ago on the fast fashion industry, I would have told you that we must take full responsibility for what we buy and the retailers we buy our clothes from. I would have scornfully commented on companies like Shein, claiming that we need to stop purchasing from companies that produce cheap clothes, cut labor costs, and ultimately hurt our environment. I would have told you to shop more sustainably and to completely avoid

other fast fashion brands. I would have regretfully admitted that I used to shop at H&M and boasted the idea that I moved on to better things by shopping at Urban Outfitters, entirely oblivious to the fact that both companies were unethical and unsustainable to a substantial degree. I naively subscribed to the idea that a higher price tag guaranteed a higher quality product. I had yet to realize that the core issue of the fast fashion industry did not reside in consumers’ unabating desire to buy more clothes, but in corporations’ lack of accountability in legislation and policy.

Although corporations swear to carry the same intentions as their consumers, they often cloak their faults with words meant to make us feel better about our shopping habits, such as “sustainable”, “organic”, “vegan-friendly”, or “ethical.” We like to imagine that large corporations want to see a more sustainable future where workers are paid and treated fairly and clothes are not drastically polluting our planet. The truth is that producing too much sustainable clothing is just as harmful to the environment as producing too much of the cheaper alternative. We continuously demand change, and as a result, many corporations respond with superficial solutions in hopes to salvage what they have left of their company image or to provide very temporary, surface level solutions to an aging issue that is the fast fashion industry. Fast fashion creeps up on us even on platforms such as Depop and Etsy, which encourage supporting small businesses and extending the life of a garment that would otherwise make its way into the back of a closet, a landfill, or the ocean. Heavily populated by dropshippers who make thousands of sales off of corporations’ cheap clothes, it is clear that these apps are not the solution; they are only a healthy branch on an otherwise dying tree.

Nine months later, I still grapple between sides. I have ditched Urban Outfitters, H&M, and nearly all other clothing brands that have been exposed, despite reassuring my friends that buying from Shein does not make them a bad person. I have sifted through and bought from an infinite list of clothing sites and apps, only to discover that the majority are far from ideal. I spend much of my spare time pondering on the idea that maybe a solution must emerge from a balance between personal choice and policy, but deep down I realize that this is not the case. It is difficult to shake off the guilt that has been instilled by a culture that holds consumers more accountable than corporations.

The saying goes “If you’re not part of the solution, you’re part of the problem." In an industry like fast fashion, change means becoming a consumer activist. Unlike conscious consumerism, consumer activism means advocating for policy and legislation reform. It means protecting those who work for less than minimum wage in the sweltering heat of a textile factory. It means spreading awareness and encouraging others to participate. Condemning buyers, resellers, or dropshippers rather than corporations will only prolong the inimical cycle of oblivious consumerism. It is only when we realize this can we effectively revive the dying tree, not through its branches but through the soil it rests upon.

Photographer Alaissa Harza Models Alaissa Garza & Sara Garza

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SOME SAY FASHION IS FAST, BUT I SAY IT'S FASTER Elain Yao

TO

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Photographer Tu Lu Models Raymond Ngo & Nolan Nguyen

OKYO DRIP 45

TOKYO STIFF 46

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TOKYO GRIP 50

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Photographer Abby Burgy Model Ana Brown

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WE DID NOT LOOK LIKE THE OTHER GIRLS

I still remember the day my younger sister asked me why our mother was not blonde. “If we had gotten light hair and light eyes, we would look like the other girls,” she declared.

My father, an American-born Caucasian, and my mother, a Vietnamese-born Chinese, did not grant my sister’s wish of the glorified blonde hair, blue-eyed babe. My facial characteristics are a jigsaw puzzle of mismatched traits, complete with slightly almond-shaped medium brown eyes, thick dark hair, and a pointed, but bridgeless, nose. When strangers play the guessing game of my ethnicity, they never hit the target. My sister was right. We did not look like the other girls.

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Being a part of a military family, I had the opportunity of living in multiple communities throughout my childhood, all of which were diverse in their own respective ways. Still, the diversity could not conceal the obvious truth that no one else looked like us. Growing up, I often struggled with my identity. Family parties deemed mine the odd ones out. On my father’s side, my cousins are fair-complected, with light eyes and tall, lanky physiques. I never took the jokes about my differences as insults, but they made me well aware of our dissimilarities despite being from the same blood. On my mother’s side of the family, they are fluent in Vietnamese, with a bronzed skin tone, almond eyes, and bridgeless noses attribute that I have, yet lack at the same time. Although I was a part of two communities growing up, neither one of them truly felt like a place where I belonged. People would often relay to me that I resembled my father more than my siblings did, and if I tried hard enough, I could pass as fully Caucasian. I could feel the curious gazes of people on me when I attended Chinese New Year festivals or told Asian-Americans I was half Chinese. I have yet to meet someone that mirrors me in phenotype, but I have since grown into my own skin. I no longer view my differences as insecurities, but as a uniqueness that, bound by birth, has controlled my experiences. Growing up with two contrasting cultures, lifestyles, and families enlightened my later encounters. I respect my different backgrounds and have learned that comparison to others, whether positive or negative, can only be unwelcoming.

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Sisterhood

Traveling S Of The

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Models Kiran Patel & Aanchal Vohra

Author Kiran Patel

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tkoor Sara Wadud, a Bengali-American, grew up seeing the disparity between South Asian clothing in the US and Asia. She realized that not everyone had the luxury of traveling to South Asia to do their Desi shopping, be it a wedding, a festival, or a cultural event. tkoor is a designer Desi rental destination. The vision with tkoor is to provide South Asians and allies with an affordable and sustainable way to maximize their traditional clothing and access well-known designers.

Wadud hopes to create an experience around the concept of the "sisterhood of the traveling sari" for the customers sharing the tkoor closet.

Coming from a philanthropic background and studying global policy and public affairs, Wadud was aware of problems within the garment industry. "Being Bengali, I knew that the garment industry was a very exploitive area when it comes to women, workplace safety, and ethical pay. For me, it was imperative to have an element to give back. For many South Asians, clothes are a very emotional experience. They are more than just cloth but a form of identity and a depiction of their culture and ancestry.

The name tkoor stems from the Sanskrit word tukra, which means "piece." Wadud, along with the many women associated with the nonprofits spoke in Bangladesh about their experiences working in the garment industry. One woman spoke about how "a tukra or merely a piece of a sari shaped their whole life." A piece of clothing allows them to provide for their family and make a living.

With the launch of tkoor, Wadud hopes to inspire a positive change within the garment industry and maximize the use of designer clothes to more than a few wears. Wadud recognizes the special and unique nature of each garment and aims to spread that concept worldwide. "I wish I could bottle up the pure magic of joy I see in girls when they wear a sari; that is the essence of tkoor."

For Wadud, it is also vital that the small karigadh's, or craftsman shops, get the same respect as the high fashion ateliers of Europe and the rest of the Western world. She references Jennifer Lopez's iconic green Versace dress and how few people know that it was handembroidered in India. The dress then gets shipped to Versace in Italy and a "Made in Italy" label was sewn on. "The fact that it was embroidered and made in India becomes a fashion footnote."

These women work in harsh conditions without light, without electricity, and without the deserved credit. "No one tells their story because the country is a third-world country stricken with poverty.

Because it's not glamorous or high fashion, that story is never covered."

Wadud hopes to highlight the stories of the women who passionately create these garments to provide them with the recognition and dignity they deserve.

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BACKWARDS

FASHION BACKWARDS Fashion is progressing but rather than creating new trends, creatives are reinventing old ones with a modern twist. Designers are modernizing retro fashion by rebranding designs from earlier decades with updated silhouettes, fabrics, or patterns to cater to the new generation of style.

fashion is timeless

Photographer John Rode

Models Brian Gyamfi & Ashley Willis

Editor Bryn Palmer

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ties

The seventies are known for groovy patterns, bell bottoms, and funky colors. Brands like House of Sunny are bringing back the funky patterns and color palettes that dominated this era of fashion. To make these styles their own, House of Sunny uses modern shapes and trendy silhouettes for their designs. Jean Paul Gaultier’s designs are also re-emerging. While some of his designs are more classical and renaissance, his sheer patterned tops add a retro touch to looks.

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The nineties were all about exploring one's personal aesthetic. Ranging from goth culture to school girl chic, the era is defined by its multitude of fashion moments. The nineties saw a reemergence of older fashion trends making a comeback- with a modernized touch. The legacy of the nineties is still present today, seen being worn by many celebrities and influencers emulating the classics of this period.

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The Growing Presence of south asian creatives Joyati Modak

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Photographer Joyati Modak Model Nabila Kabir

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In compliance with the COVID-19 lockdown, being forced to stay at home gave me an opportunity to explore the different dimensions of social media, more specifically TikTok and Instagram. I noticed more and more South Asian creators posting their work and growing their followings rapidly. By combining Western and South Asian fashion and makeup elements, creators found a way to reclaim their identities and share them in a public sphere. They’ve grown followings by presenting their creativity in original forms and recreating popular trends with a uniquely South Asian twist/influence.

As a Bengali-Ameican, seeing a growing number of South Asians proudly displaying their culture finally let me see more people like me and similar experiences while living in the US in the media. Seeing them gives young South Asians a way to reconcile the all too common struggle to choose to fit into societal expectations of American culture while balancing it with their mother culture. Some of these creatives in fashion include Nabila Kabir and Milan Mathew. Patel posts selfportraits on Instagram and Tiktok with clear South Asian influences expressed through jewelry, outfits, and set designs.

Mathew’s style combines desi influences with western fashion (ex: adding in a pair of jhumka’s or other jewelry to the outfit).

She has also added South Asian representation to a notable trend on TikTok set to the sound “Just Did a Bad Thing.”.

These creators have played a hand in increasing diversity and helping others of South Asian descent see people like themselves in a more considerable light in mainstream media.

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e r u t a n g i S

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The red lip. It’s classic, it’s quintessential, it’s the red lip.

It’s never not striking despite being seen everywhere from the face of a socialite at a Manhattan luncheon to the face of a congresswoman in DC. We could also look to the high ponytail -- now immortalized in the form of a tiny singer with a not so tiny voice, splashed across magazine covers and countless performances. Both Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez and Ariana Grande have made these two classics their own, a piece of the fashion world recognized by them despite their massive popularity. The signature style bestows something to their aura, adds memorability, and creates that spark that everyone strives for. Granted, it can be daunting to find a signature that lives up to the emblematic of these two, but in the grand scheme of things, a signature knows no bounds.

Sarah Joung Photographer Abby Burgy

Model Amiel Majok

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We tend to remember the outliers and the oddities that make each and every single one of us special. It doesn’t have to be anything extreme -- this is not a call to dye your hair a color nobody has ever seen before or to revamp your entire wardrobe simply to make a statement. It simply has to do with what makes you unique and owning it. One way to do this is to modify or accentuate something you already do. Perhaps you have the talent necessary to make perfect winged eyeliner or already enjoy a bold lip. Finding your signature could mean embracing these and incorporating them into your everyday look and lifestyle. Repetition is key when crafting a signature look: the more people see you with your signature, the more they begin to associate you with it. Although makeup is a great way to find your signature, it is far from the last.

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Accentuate your signature style with accessories. You may not have thought about it before, but if you happen to wear a necklace gifted by your mother or a ring from a close friend every day, that is your own subtle, yet sentimental signature. However, for those who want to switch it up or would like something a bit more flashy, there are other ways to accessorize a signature. Whether gold, silver, brass, or fabric, material is one way we can establish a constant, no matter what outfit we put on, and it starts with becoming aware of the colors that compliment our skin tones. Although some may argue that people with a warmer skin undertone are suited more with gold whereas people with a cooler skin undertone are complemented best in silver, it really comes down to personal preference and the aura you want to exude to outside eyes. Another thing to consider when deciding on a signature is not only composition, but style as well. If you have an affinity for chokers, go for it, Nowadays, chokers make for the perfect layering piece that adds the extra “WOW” to any outfit.. Charm bracelets are another fun medium that are not only customizable, but create a distinct rattle with movement, making it hard to mistake it for anyone else's. The bracelets are a steady enough presence to remind people of you and your capability of changing and growing as you move through life.

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Scent And of course, where would we be if we didn’t mention a signature scent? Smell is one of our most powerful senses, and the role it plays in memory shouldn’t be underestimated. There’s a reason why catching a small whiff of Chanel No. 5 brings back memories of mothers and older relatives, or how a single spritz of Bath and Body Works’ Sweet Pea body mist brings back fond recollections of middle school adventures. Scent is a wonderful tool, not only to smell great and convince people of your good hygiene, but also to express your personality without needing explanation . A few sprays of Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle or Miss Dior paints the picture of a youthful but sophisticated young woman who clearly knows her worth. A girl who wears the sultry sweetness of Prada Candy or YSL Black Opium exudes warmth and effortless attraction. The language of scent is a powerful one, and a signature scent does all the talking for you, with no need for introduction.

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Finding your signature should not be a weighing task, rather it is simply finding ways to enhance what is already there. Perhaps you already have one that you haven’t yet noticed. Whether it is accessories, makeup, style, or scent, a signature is nothing without a host that represents it well and carries it like no other. Maybe you will go for the same bold lip, like a particular congresswoman does, or become a mini fashion maverick hunting down big name stores and little boutiques for that little something special that becomes part of you. But no matter what it is, there’s no doubt you’ll find a signature that not only represents you well on the outside but brings you confidence within.

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Photographer Tynaya Cossie Models Nia Lancit & Nandita Malhotra

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Bryn Palmer

Power of a pantsuit On November 7, 2020, after being announced as the official vice president elect of the United States, Kamala Harris stepped out onto the stage at the Chase Center in Wilmington, Delaware in her blaring all-white Carolina Herrera pantsuit and her iconic red lip.

Harris made history by becoming the first U.S female vice president of black and south asian descent.

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While not inherently obvious, her choice of clothing makes for a powerful political statement. White is one of the most iconic colors worn in the course of political history. Many female politicians wear white as a symbol of power and strength in a worldly sphere dominated by men.

This comes from suffragettes wearing white to stand out as a symbol of purity as they protested for voting rights. Harris not only pays homage to suffragettes with her pantsuit, but she also continues their work as she breaks barriers in the world of politics.

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Her predecessors would be proud watching her become the first female vice-president-elect as she proves how women can hold positions of power in a “man’s world”. Choosing white as the first color to wear after her election further pursues her campaign as she reveals her intentions. White signifies purity so Harris subtlety hints at a plan with the best interest of the people at heart. Harris’ pantsuit, as well as her accomplishments, inspire everyday working women to claim their place in the workspace by wearing clothing that we feel confident in. By putting on clothing that empowers us, we are able to work harder and stand out amongst our male counterparts.

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