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Appendix H. Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida

by John Charles Richard Sr.

This manuscript, written in 1848 from Middleburg, Florida, contains notes and observations on Florida while the author was taking a travel survey on horseback through the Everglades shortly after the conclusion of the Seminole Indian War. The author was a graduate of Hinesville Academy, [Gainesville], Florida. The present owner of this diary, Miss Doris Averett, lives at 254 Talleyrand Ave., Jacksonville, Florida.

Copy prepared by Historical Records Survey State Archives Survey Works Progress Administration State Office Jacksonville, Florida 1937

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida

Few Sections of this continent from its first discovery to the present moment, have attracted more attention or exercised Public curiosity to a greater degree than the Territory of Florida. Resulting probably from the fact that from the period of its first exploration by the Spaniards under De Soto to l843 it has been the theatre of continued adventure and romantic occurrence. Under the banners of De Soto were enlisted many of the choicest and most experienced cavaliers of that day, among whom we can distinguish the names of the most powerful families of the Spanish empire, probably younger members who being full of the spirit of adventure so prevalent at that time eagerly embraced the opportunity of seeking glory and renown by fighting under the guidance of so victorious a General — But how soon were those gay aspirations changed to sorrow and despair! The unfortunate termination of this campaign however, is too generally known to render it necessary for me to dwell upon it here.

Suffice it to say, De Soto sacrificed his own life as well as the lives of nearly all those brave men who were induced to follow him in the too eager search after gold. Of all that gay host scarcely fifty returned to relate the sad climax to an undertaking that appeared at first so fraught with fortune and success.

I believe it was no part of De Soto’s intention to form a settlement in Florida, he was rather prompted into this expedition by the exaggerated stories of the Mexicans who whenever inquiries were made after the precious metals continually pointed to the Northeast. He also judged from the gold that adorned the persons of the Indians he discovered here (and who doubtless obtained it from the gold veins of Georgia and South Carolina that the land which charmed him at first sight by the rich display of flowers and whose atmosphere was loaded with the perfume of fragrant roses would certainly afford the gold vein that had baffled the pursuit of all former adventurers.

After the termination of De Soto’s efforts many other expeditions were undertaken by soldiers who had acquired wealth and reputation under Cortes and Pizarro. All however, were equally as unfortunate as the first; owing doubtless to the relentless spirit of resistance displayed by the Indians against all invaders; and also to the fool-hardiness of the adventurers themselves who instead of conciliating these stern warriors of the forest, usually treated them with extreme severity. They gave themselves up also to the indulgence of every profligate vice which, blended with the effeminate influences of a warm and luxurious climate created an apathy and enervation that completely prostrated their energies, and paralyzed their efforts, and they either fell victims to the unrelenting tomahawk and scalping knife of the savage, or to their own excessive indulgences.

Very little reliance can be placed upon the description given by these adventurers as regards the real state of the country, which at present is looked upon as mere historical romance by those who are acquainted with its topography; for although they probably passed over the places described; yet with a view to palliate their profligacy and lavish waste of life, they have interwoven the most extravagant and 152

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida fabulous accounts of gold, pearls, and inexhaustible treasures, which never have in reality existed. It is a remarkable fact that although Florida was explored and a colony established at an earlier period than in any other portion of North America; less is known of its true resources, the quality of its soil, and the various products adapted to its climate for successful cultivation.

Business blended with an extreme desire to visit a country that has attracted so much attention has afforded the writer an opportunity of becoming acquainted with these important considerations and thinking it may be useful to those who are desirous of emigrating to a new country, he has been induced to publish the result of his investigations. So far as can be ascertained the first settlement in Florida was established in 1562, close to the mouth of the St. Johns River by Mons. Ribault, an expatriate French Protestant, who selected this desolate spot to indulge in the free exercise of his religious views, he was soon followed by others, who judged that in this lonely and unknown region they would be allowed the privilege to worship God according to the dictates of their own hearts. But these unfortunate Protestants who had escaped from persecution in their own country soon found the vindictive spirit of bigotry followed them to this. In investigating the records of past times we uniformly discover that man has always boasted of his freedom of opinion, yet so anomalous is our nature, that when it has come in collision with the prevailing impulses of public prejudices, the mighty arm of persecution has been raised against those who have claimed the inherent right of thinking for themselves. No soil or climate, no matter how remote, have protected them. In the present instance these devoted Protestants were discovered by a bigot named Menendez who was instrumental in having their property sequestrated and themselves exterminated with the most relentless cruelty unequaled by the fatal festival of St. Bartholomew.

Close to the site of where settlements were and immediately at the mouth of the St. Johns there is now erected a large steam sawmill, whose puffs can be heard several miles out at sea, which gives at least some evidence of industry and enterprise. As you approach the mouth you are amused at the antic evolutions of the porpoise or sea-hog, who assemble here in droves, as if to join a tenor of snorts to the hoarse bellowing of the mechanical monster.

The navigation of this river is most lamentably impeded by a large bar that extends nearly all the way across its mouth, and can only be passed at flood tide by vessels drawing 10 feet water, otherwise the stream is of sufficient depth to admit vessels of the heaviest tonnage 100 miles into the interior. It presents however, a most majestic appearance disemboquing by a mouth nearly a [This sentence is not finished.]

The munificent flow of water, the varied scenery that adorns its banks, its peculiar expansions and contractions presenting to the eye a continued chain o lakes; which, in many places, measure six miles in width, then gradually rounding into no greater breadth than 1000 yards, the magnificent growth of timber adorning its banks, the monotony of which is frequently broken by clearings that afford a rich 153

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida display of cotton growth. Add to this the cheering sight of numerous coasters and steam boats continually to be seen traversing 150 miles into the interior, diving as it were, into the very bowels of the most fertile regions of East Florida, all blending together present an imposing and beautiful perspective that arouses the imagination, and vividly impresses the mind of the traveller with the vast importance this stream must eventually be to the prosperity, and wealth of the Territory.

Jacksonville is the only town upon the river and is situated about 30 miles from the mouth. It is the Borough of Duval County and is built at the lower end of one of the widest expansions of the river, which measures above the town at least 5 miles across and of great depth, which greatly contribute to the beauty, and health of the place. It has about 200 inhabitants, but presents an appearance as you approach it if being twice that in number, owing to its having been during the war a military depot; the numerous houses then built for the accommodation of the army and those who were driven from the interior are yet standing, and are vacant. The inhabitants are intelligent, and mirabile dictu industrious; being composed chiefly of merchants and lawyers many of whom are from the northern states.

As you progress upwards towards Black Creek 20 miles from Jacksonville the wrecks of many plantations are to be seen that eighty years ago were in full splendor of successful cultivation. The number of settlements that once gave life and animation to the banks of this noble river have almost entirely disappeared in consequence of the long protracted Indian warfare. The rich orange groves and luxuriant sugar cane that once adorned its borders have given place to pines and scrubby oaks; no longer are we cheered by the hearty laugh of the negro or made welcome by his hospitable owner; the devastating power of war has destroyed all this! and in sailing up this beautiful stream, an air of stillness — made melancholy by the continued sights of former ease— impress a beholder with the idea that he is traversing the waters of a new and uninhabited country. At the mouth of Black creek the ruins of an old sawmill was pointed out to me whose owner was slain and scalped within sight of a steam boat full of armed men; before any could land to the rescue, they had set fire to the mill and escaped to the hammocks.

This creek possesses many singular characteristics. The banks are low, flat, and in many places marshy. The water is jet black, and the scales of the fish caught in it are of the same color. I was struck with this by catching several large sun-fish, whose natural golden tinge was entirely effaced. Vessels that navigate the St. Johns are able to ascent this as far as Gary’s ferry 15 miles from its confluence, but it is with considerable labor as the creek is so narrow (yet of surprising depth) that the branches of the largest trees extend over in many places, from opposite sides and almost interlock. The easiest way we found to progress onwards was to stretch out long ropes ahead, tie to different joints and haul up. Here appears to be the headquarters of all the alligators upon the St. Johns. I never saw half the number congregated in so small a space before. They showed themselves with such reckless impunity, even after discovering us, that I began almost to credit a story told me before coming here that I would find 154

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida these monsters so numerous that the natives had but to whistle up a tame one upon whose back they could jump and trot off in any direction they pleased. Upon my arrival at Gary’s ferry I found nothing there half so agreeable as the horses and servants waiting my arrival; to carry me across to the Alachua lands, a distance of 40 miles.

In going over, an occurrence happened to me which shows that one will sometimes meet with queer men as well as animals in the woods. Considering myself a tolerable good woodsman I had allowed my guide to get considerable distance ahead, feeling confident, if I did lose sight of him, I could still keep his tracks. In this way I travelled leisurely along until the close of the day when I suddenly came to a point where the road struck off in various directions—the proper one to select was now a question. I endeavored to find the tracks my guide had made but “nigger like” he had taken to the woods in preference to keeping the open way; like Obidiah, the son of Abensinu?, I had not the evening carols of the bird of Paradise to calm my solitude, nor high hills that I could mount to gain fresh perspective; all around was a level pine forest; the stillness of which was painfully interrupted by the unpleasant screechings of the night owl. I therefore resolved upon the more vulgar method of “raising a rumpus” by myself, and made the woods reverberate with my whoops and yells. They were soon answered, and I immediately saw a singular looking figure looming through the woods mounted upon a small dingy pony; as he approached I perceived he was heavily armed with pistols and a long rifle, a large hunting pouch made of an undressed fox skin hung to his side. He had on an old regimental fatigue coat that was adorned “with patch upon patch, yet still left a hole in the middle” for around his shoulder blades it was worn completely through; his lower limbs were encased in leather and upon his head was stuck a small glazed(?) skull cap, beneath which, such whiskers! and moustaches projected forth! Surpassing in magnitude, and dazzling redness any I ever expect to see again (unless I should once more see the opera of Norma performed). When I glanced towards his feet I espied a large pair of moccasins —this was enough for me. I cocked my rifle, was off my horse, and seized the highest tree in a twinkling, and stood upon my guard; for I really believed the Indians were upon me, and resolved at least to have one fire for my scalp. He motioned for me to lower my piece, and spluttered something in broken English which only confirmed my first impression, and it was with difficulty I allowed him to approach. He came on exclaiming, me no injin, me a Pole, what you take me for; one injun, ha! ha! ha! good, that makes me glad.

I came out from behind my tree and extended my hand, which he shook with great cordiality, and immediately offered me his canteen. I reciprocated by giving him mine [which was filled with wine] of which he drank freely; declaring it was [first rate?]. He told me his name was John Sowiski and asked me so many questions, with such extreme volubility, and in such bad English, that it was impossible for me to understand him. I replied in French and begged if he comprehended me to reply in that language. He did so very agreeable and appeared delighted as he understood my bad French better 155

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida than I did his murdered English. I told him I had lost my guide and wished to be out on the road leading to Newnansville. Well, says he, my way is towards Black Creek. But as it is almost dark, I think we had better seek a comfortable spot for camping; as we are too far from any house to expect pleasanter quarters than dry ground and blue sky. He then turned his horse into the track which he informed me was the route, and we both jogged on together mutually with each other’s company.

I found him to be an intelligent man; but our conversation was abruptly broken off by his suddenly making into the woods. I soon discovered the object of his pursuit, a fine doe sprung out of some undergrowth immediately before him, he blazed [?] away, and the deer fell. This was a “bon de Dieu� so we dismounted and prepared all things for a social encampment. That is, he stretched our blankets upon poles so as to afford us a shelter from the dew and built a fire to broil our venison. In the midst of all these preparations, my negro appeared who told me he had turned back in search for me and had been attracted to where we were my the report of our rifles. He formed a welcome auxiliary, we left him to take care of the horses and prepare supper whilst the Pole entertained me by relating hiadventures.

He told me he was one of those students attached to the Military Academy of Warsaw who were instrumental in 1828 in awakening that ardent spirit of patriotism which lay concealed under the gloom of despotism imposed upon his country by the Russian Dynasty. It would be foreign to my purpose to give a detail of all he related. The world already knows but too well the unfortunate termination of the efforts made by these children of Liberty to disenthrall themselves from the yoke of a despotic government. He was compelled to leave his country to save his life, and after traversing over most of Europe came at last to this country about the beginning of the Florida war. Having no friends and but little money he determined upon visiting the peninsula and joining the army as a volunteer, hiring [?] his talents as a soldier would bring him into notice. But his imperfect knowledge of the English language hindered him from obtaining command when opportunities presented themselves to acquire distinction.

He therefore quit in disgust and selected a piece of land in the neighborhood of Black Creek where he built a cabin and cleared a few acres of land. Scarred?, I presume, by misfortunes, he resolved to turn hermit; (...illegible...) the dark hand of adversity had not yet released her grasp upon him.

Whilst absent from here the Indians burnt his house and destroyed the small patch of corn he had planted. He had endured too much however to allow this to dishearten him. He had rebuilt his cabin and was now living as comfortable as a happy disposition could make a lonely life. The negro now came to tell us our meal was prepared. After eating it my friend enlivened by the invigorating influence of the wine we had, whiled away the evening by singing with a voice replete with harmony several National Polish songs. We then retired under our blankets. The Pole was asleep long before I had the least inclination to follow his example. My spirit felt depressed and sadden by the recital of his misfortunes. I could not refrain from remaining awake reflecting how truly man is the creature of his 156

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida circumstances: Here was one notwithstanding the eccentricity of his appearance, whose conversation evinced a fine understanding and cultivated mind. Who doubtless set out in the morning of his Youth full of high hopes and noble aspirations from whose eyes there still beams forth a kindness and benignity unquenched by disaster, poverty and exile.

In the morning I felt a regret at parting and, in giving him my hand, muttered something about “brighter prospects and happier days”. He said nothing but pressed it, then turning into the woods was soon lost in the pine mazes of the forest.

I now pushed rapidly forward and each mile, as I approached the rich high lands of Alachua, I met with innumerable instances of Indian depredation. Settlements forsaken by their owners, lands overgrown and houses either burnt or most lamentably dilapidated, so that those who are now returning to their old homes have to perform almost as much labor as when they originally cleared the land.

Alachua County has been more especially the scene of Indian depredations than any other section of Florida. Family after family has been butchered, indeed the settlers exposed themselves with a recklessness only to be accounted for by the continuance of scenes of the most barbarous cruelty and bloodshed. Like experienced soldiers, their feelings became deadened to the real danger of their situation and they hazarded their lives in the protection of their property, until every prospect subsided of a speedy termination of hostilities, and when they had collected together in places for mutual protection they were often induced to return from reiterated assurances given them by commanding officers that their enemies were either driven in or cooped up within the narrow precincts of the Everglades. Those who relied upon their assertions soon had reason to repent their credulity, for when they imagined they were dwelling in perfect security, like wolves would these Indians come from their hiding places and glut their vengeance by destroying life and property. Instances have been related that impressed me with the belief that “all the horrors of war before known or heard of” was mercy to this new scene of savage strife. Fathers butchered before their children, children before their mother, reserving her as the last sacrifice to endure the more exquisite torture of witnessing the death agonies of those who she cherished dearer than life.

It is obvious that no country could be more favorable for a long continuance of savage warfare than this, interspersed as it is throughout every section with hammocks and lagoons varying from one to 15 miles in length and breadth, so thick with every variety of brushwood that the sun himself can scarce get through, and often when it was believed that a band of savages who had infested a neighborhood were confined within the narrow precincts of one of these places, especially if they remained quiescent several weeks, the country would be again startled by hearing of some new depredation by the same gang in an opposite quarter of the Peninsular, to the great mortification of the men who had uselessly devoted labor and time in searching through an intricate and marshy place in which it was supposed the enemies were secreted. In this way, and under these circumstances, have a few hundred miserable 157

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida savages kept the whole Peninsula in terror and been able to baffle the pursuit of large armies commanded by officers of conspicuous reputation for the past seven years and at length only brought under subjection by long persecution and continued capture that has so reduced their force as to render them unable longer to resist.

There is no war upon ancient or modern record sustained by savages against disciplined troops in a manner more extraordinary that this of which I am speaking, except the Maroon War of Jamaica, which probably may bear comparison. Like Florida the whole interior of this island abounds with brushwood blended with gigantic grass, capable of concealing any number of men in which the Maroons discovered sub-labyrinths intricate, torturous and dangerous in the extreme, originally made by wild hogs. Through these they would travel upon all fours for miles until coming to an opening they could destroy life in perfect safety to themselves. In this way did they baffle the pursuit of the English soldiers for years, until finally they were reduced to offer them the most liberal terms to cease hostilities.

Had any person felt desirous to emulate the actions of General Marioin by living a swamp life and fighting the Indians in their own way they certainly have had a fine opportunity in the present war. I am surprised that among so many aspirants after military honors who abound in the Territory someone did not select this method to acquire reputation.

The Seminoles are not a distinct tribe of themselves, but were originally made up of renegades from the Creeks, Choctaws and the various tribes that formerly occupied the southern section of this country, who for some misdeeds were obliged to fly. They selected this place as being in their imagination upon the outskirts of creation. Its natural formation also afford them protection from the persecution of their enemies. They are tall, well made and athletic. Their feats of agility surprising those who have contended against them.

They can climb the highest trees like monkeys and frequently in battle have made lairs upon the tops of the highest pines where they could remain in safety and shoot down upon the heads of their antagonists. In this manner, they were able to pick off many of our best officers and, when discovered, descended to the ground with the velocity of a squirrel. With characteristic keenness of hearing they are able to detect movement made against them at a distance, while theirs to us would be totally inaudible.

Patient of hunger and fatigue they can exist for days upon the nutritious herbs and roots found in the woods. Every man among them possesses a rifle but their accuracy of fire is greatly inferior to our own woodsmen, and singular to say, they have never at any time been discovered without an abundant supply of powder and ball.

Although several murders have been committed within the last 12 months it is doubtful whether Indians or run-away slaves have been guilty of them and it has now become the general impression even 158

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida in the Territory that the war is terminated. All the chiefs that yet remain have surrendered except that notorious rogue Sam Jones who has proved himself to be one or the most skillful generals and accomplished warriors that has ever existed in any age. With but a handful of men and squaws, he has been able to baffle for the past seven years, our most distinguished generals and Naval lieutenants and now roams free and unmolested along the glorious shore of the Florida Atlantic an unrestrained trapper of the St. Lucia and Jupiter hunting grounds, a terror to wreck crews and a dangerous neighbor to the south Florida settler.

Sam has not been visible to the palefaces since 1837 and nothing definite has been heard from him until recently when the polite request of General North for him to “come in” he returned the uncourteous answer, “tustenugges wahoo bosh!” which literally means when translated “I’ll see you damned first”. It must be confessed, these Indians have had strong reasons to contend with that vindictiveness peculiar to their nature against all encroachments of the whites; for the time this country came under American jurisdiction nothing but continued imposition have been practiced toward them.

On more than one occasion, the writer has been informed of a set of worthless wretches have gone among them and spread a rumor that Gen'l Jackson was marching down upon them with thousands of American troops to drive them out of the country and deprive them of their property. Reports like this, in connection with the name so much dreaded among them, often induced them to abandon their crops and sell their cattle and slaves at great sacrifice whereby the cupidity of speculators were gratified but reduced their credulous victims to absolute starvation and want. From such reiterated violation of their rights, was it not natural that every feeling of animosity should be aroused? And make them resolved no longer to trust a people who had uniformly infringed feelings of self right “that Providence has planted within the bosom of every man so powerfully that no matter what may be his complexion neither” ignorance can stifle nor the enervation of refinement extinguish.

It was supposed before the war that they had become so humbled that they would willingly have succumbed to any system for their amelioration; - then was the time for our government to have driven off those blackguards who hung upon their skirts like birds of prey undermining their morality and infecting them with that devouring miasma “love of liquor”. School should have been introduced and efforts made to civilize the main body of the Nations by disseminating religion and education among them. it is true isolated instances have occurred where education has been bestowed upon a solitary Indian of a whole tribe, who when thrown upon the world and permitted to think for himself – the love of kindred, the influence of early associations induced him to return to the home of his childhood where he knew open arms and kind hearts were ready to receive him.

Had that home been cheered with the benign influence of Christianity he doubtless would have remained a proud monument to those who had bestowed upon him their kindness and attention in the boast of our philanthropy!—Our desire to plant the banners of civilization upon the very “outer walls” 159

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida of the world! Why then have we neglected within our own bosom a race universally acknowledged to possess a superiority of intellect?

Half the money expended in the Florida War would have crowned with success an undertaking fraught with so much goodness. I know there are some who will smile with contempt at the idea of taming an Indian but how limited must be the conception, how illiberal the mind and how little or partially must they have studied human nature who imagine that the degraded African is easier to be influenced by good precepts than the noble and high-minded child of the forest. The only difference among the human race results from the difference of education. We all only reflect the knowledge of those who have gone before us, then why should these be incorrigible?

Look at the City of Mexico when discovered and you will behold rare talents displayed by Indians in the arts and sciences, then will the skeptical attempt to say that Nature has prescribed bounds to the minds of races or color? History has portrayed in vivid colors the cruelties of the Spaniards toward the aborigines. It will as unerringly record our own and will descend to posterity with the bright pages of our history blackened with the blood of the persecuted Indian.

I am not surprised that they should have fought so strenuously for this section of the country The rich prairie and hammock surpass in point of fertility most lands of this description to be found south, interspersed however with great quantities of pine barrens not susceptible of cultivation but over which herds of marked cattle owned by the different plants indiscriminately roam. The immense number can easily be imagined when it is known that more than 20,000 have been driven off by the Indians since the war commenced.

The idea of sterility is usually associated with pine lands. This opinion doubtless is correct so far as it is applicable to the north, but here it is different. Many of the most useful products of the south are the congenial plants of sandy soil where pitch pine grows most luxuriantly. I have seen many settlements established in the midst of the pine forests and succeed admirably in raising 20 bushels of corn to the acre. The Black and Green seed cotton and also the sugar cane which always require land of superior quality to make it a successful article of cultivation.

The general character of Florida land is of a light sandy nature, based upon clay, rotten limestone to be found at various depths below the surface of the earth. From its very lightness I should concede it was not capable of bearing many exhausting crops. This, however, is in a measure counterbalanced by the universal possession of cattle by the planter, who can with convenience to himself, turn them in at night, and in this way, soon resuscitate impoverished fields. There is also a peculiar fertilizing principle pervading the very air and subsidizing to the earth which enables old fields soon to re-enervate themselves. This principle is considered as generating from the saline particles which are carried by the sea breezes on to the land.

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Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida It is not my desire to impress the idea of universal fertility but I caution those who are unacquainted with the subject from condemning the vast pine regions of Florida to neglect. They will yield an ample return for the labor bestowed upon them and convince the enterprising that sterility is not a consequence on light soils and sandy regions.

In order more effectually to subdue the irascible spirit of the Indians and establish peace upon a firm basis by encouraging immigration, a recent Congress were induced to pass a law allowing 160 acres to each settler who would locate himself for five consecutive years, clear five acres within one year after the issue of his permit, south of a certain designated line, since the cessation of hostilities. It has had the desired effect of filling up the Territory with population, it would not have otherwise acquired for years. Those who have been induced to avail themselves of a government donation are generally of the poorer and industrious class who are willing to endure the dangers of a frontier life for the benefits derived in selecting as rich land as they can discover. I am of the opinion that the law has had no effect to terminate the war, as I do not know of anyone risking a settlement until the U.S. officers have declared the hostilities had ceased. Since that time, the tide of immigration has been very great.

The land office at Newnansville has issued near 600 permits and I presume the office at St. Augustine and Tallahassee as many more.

Such has been the great influx that great distress is experienced for the want of provisions.

There is not corn enough in the country to supply the wants of this superabundant population. Planters who returned to their homes last year early enough to make a crop merely planted sufficient to answer family necessities and with no view to benefit their neighbors. Although the country allotted to these newcomers is known here as “the promised land� it certainly does not as yet flow with milk and honey, and I know of nothing that would have a greater tendency to preserve life and benefit these Israelites than a good shower of manna.

SECOND SECTION To an inquiring mind few studies are more agreeable than to be made acquainted with the characteristics and resources of a country peculiar in its structure and celebrated for the various productions its soil is capable of affording.

The greatest expectations have frequently been raised respecting the practicability of introducing into Florida many of the tropical plants for successful cultivation which have included within their range the coffee berry as well as other West India productions. Such was the expectations raised at one time respecting this product that a company was formed many years ago in Philadelphia for the avowed purpose of attempting its cultivation and experienced persons were sent to Florida to select an eligible spot. The result of their investigations have never been published, and the project died away either for the want of energy on the part of its originators or patronage from the public, so that the question yet remains for future experiments to solve whether this useful plant can be made a profitable 161

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida production in any part of Florida. It is, however, confidently asserted by old planters that the southern and middle portions of the Peninsula is admirably adapted both in soil and in climate to recommend the cultivation of this berry a safe undertaking.

It is probably more useful to my readers to confine myself to those plants that have stood the test of experience and crown with success the efforts of the enterprising settler. Among these the grand staple product of the south forms the most conspicuous objects. Cotton is known to grow here in all its varieties as luxuriantly as in any portion of the world, and with less liability of failure than in any other part of the U.S., owing to the uniform mildness of the climate, that erases all fear of its destruction by sudden frosts that frequently proves detrimental to its growth in every other portion of the southern country.

It is singular and pleasing to behold in ranging along the southern Atlantic coast how admirably Providence has varied the productions of Nature to the different qualities of soil and to see land that appears as sandy and sterile as the desert plains of Arabia yielding luxuriant crops whiter than the sand from which they spring.

The sugar cane has become so incorporated with the growth of this soil that is may now be considered as an indigenous plant. It will flourish in any part of Florida and since the enactment of the present tariff will doubtless become the most profitable product that can be cultivated by the Florida planters. The great length of the cultivating season allow it to grow much higher than in Mississippi and Louisiana and the hammocks from the depth and richness of their soil enable the cultivator to plant it for many successive seasons without exhausting the strength of his land. The labor required to raise this product is much less than that bestowed upon cotton, tobacco, or even corn, so that the poorer class of farmers in Georgia and South Carolina who exist upon the precarious profits of the small patches of cotton they are able to attend, will find it greatly to their advantage to immigrate here and undertake the cultivation of the cane. One man can attend three acres of sugar cane to one of cotton with the certainly of his crop yielding him $60 to the acre, independent of the incessant attention cotton requires in the field. The labor expended by poor farmers in preparing it for market after it is plucked is immense. Few among them are rich enough to afford a cotton gin. In fact, the small amount they are able to cultivate renders that somewhat superfluous and they are consequently obliged to extract the dirt and seed with their hands, a process laborious and extremely tedious. Whereas the sugar cane only requires the plow run through it often enough to suppress the grass. The sun and climate do the rest, and after it has become matured it is only required to cut the cane, extract the juice by means of rollers, and then boil it off to the consistency of sugar, all which can be done by two persons and a horse.

Tobacco from the common Virginia to the superior Havana can be cultivated over the whole Territory with this advantage over most other places. The vanilla which is found indigenous in the woods can be mixed with it, thereby affording a flavor equal to the best weed of Cuba. It has already 162

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida become a profitable source of cultivation. The writer knows of several thousand pounds sold in West Florida. The growth of that section of the Territory during the past year should smoking continue the fashion of the day, Florida tobacco will become as celebrated as the best Cuban. These are the three great staples of the south, from the cultivation of which derives a greater revenues than all the other products put together, and there is no section of this continent whose climate and soil will yield them more abundantly than the Territory of Florida. Other sources of profitable vegetation can be enumerated that have amply repaid the labor expended in their cultivation. Among these whilst the country was under English jurisdiction, the indigo formed a conspicuous growth. It is found growing wild in the woods and only requires the hand of the cultivator to make it yield an income.

The Palm Christa should not be forgotten, furnishing one of the most important medicines known in the Materia Medica. Many gentlemen in the south cultivate it with success and obtain one dollar per bottle for the expressed oil. The luxuriant manner in which this plant grows here will cause it not to be neglected.

Situated as Florida is upon the skirts of the Tropic of Cancer and blessed with a soil inferior to none of the sister states, she can be made to yield the more important breadstuffs of the north, in connection with the luxuries of the torrid zone. Wheat, Indian corn, rice, peas and beans of every variety, sweet potatoes and squashed and pumpkins form the natural productions of cultivation. Of all these the Indian corn constitute the principal article of food and probably is better adapted to the warm soil of Florida. It is not unusual to see pine barren land yield 25 bushels to the acre. It grows to great height and has not often more than one large ear to the stalk.

I have yet to visit a country capable of affording a greater variety of fruit, many of them of the most delicious quality. The country, however, is yet new, and it will require the attention of a few intelligent planters to give an impulse and proper tone to this important culture. Lands unfit for anything else will yield the greater number of these fruits congenial to this climate. Before the country retrograded in population and wealth the orange and fig had become articles of export. Exploring parties have frequently discovered groves of these delicate fruit growing in the midst of hammocks, probably planted by Indians.

There are also many varieties of the grape found here indigenous to the country, and of a most luxuriant growth. A circumstance showing the practicability of establishing vineyards here. Indeed, the writer has been informed that whilst the western section of the Territory was under the jurisdiction of the French such was the success attending the cultivation of this fruit, that is aroused fears of the French government and prompted them to suppress the culture lest the profits should interfere with those of France.

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Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida I have enumerated the principal fruits from the culture of which the husbandman may confidently rely upon a rich return for their labor and care. There are many others viz: the peach, quince, pomegranate, plum, pineapple, melon, etc., that add to the luxuries and beauties of a Florida plantation.

The immigrants who have settled along the Gulf and Atlantic coasts have expressed determination to attend principally to the cultivation of fruit as requiring less labor and will yield a larger income than any other product they can plant, so that the sanguine are now looking forward to no distant period when the shores f Florida will present a rich prospect of gardens and orchards loaded with the most delicious fruits of the tropical climate where every tree, like those of Hesperides, will yield its golden pippin.

To one desirous of gliding smoothly down the stream of life, surrounded by all the domesticities that can make man contented with his lot, there is not situation more the envied than the Florida planters. His cotton and wool afford him the proper materials for clothing; his fields are loaded with products that command high prices in the European markets in connection with such growth as are suitable for the sustenance of life.

His gardens and orchards are the repository of the most delicious luxuries and fruits of the tropics, blended with those of the temperate zone, affording him facilities of supplying his northern neighbors, who are less blessed than those of more southern climes. Relying only upon Nature to shed her benign rays of beneficence around him, he lives free from the corroding cares of life and independent of the capricious cares of man, commanding the respect of others, whilst his influence is universally solicited. Warm in his disposition, his heart is open to the most friendly impressions and ever sympathizing in the voice of distress, the innate feeling that prompts him quickly to resent a personal aggression renders him honorable in his associations and upright in all his dealing. Such is the condition and character of a respectable southern planter.

No country has ever yet made rapid progress in population and wealth whose form of government has been frequently changed and controlled by different dynasties. No matter how salubrious the climate, how rich the soil, or how varied the productions of Nature may be, it is stability alone that encourages immigration, and guarantees a wholesome enforcement of the laws. Let a civilized community once become accustomed to an established system and their energies will bring forth prosperity and ease. Florida has been peculiarly unfortunate in this respect. Although blessed with the climate and soil, scarcely to be excelled by any country in the world in point of salubrity and variety of productions, she has been kept back in the great march of civilization by frequent changes in her laws and rulers. Originally belonging to the Spaniards, then to the French, afterward possessed by the English, then regained by the Spanish and finally obtained by purchase by the U.S. It is an axiom in the policy of most nations to exclude others and establish colonies and encourage immigration of their own people to the new countries that may be under their jurisdiction in 164

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida order that they may derive the sole benefit of whatever new sources of wealth may be discovered, and we find this continued transition of Florida from one government to another has occasioned a superseding of one class of people by another, and a consequent irregularity in the number of their inhabitants. These occurrences have depressed the energy of those who have remained to endure the vicissitudes of a long and protracted war, and have deprived her of a population that otherwise would naturally have flowed in.

But since all internal commotions have subsided, we find that under the cheering influence of a liberal and enlightened government the woods have been made to resound with the hearty strokes of the settlers’ axes. The tide of immigration is diverted from the west and now flows with a rapid current to the rich lagoons of this luxuriant Territory. Innumerable settlements are already made by enterprising freemen, where lately the yellow savage shook the foliage of the magnolia and startled the doe from her haunts in the Everglades.

Immigrants are greatly annoyed in the selection of settlements by the various grants of land was formerly conceded to individuals and companies by the Spanish and English governments. These concessions extend over the whole Territory and usually occupy the richest hammocks in the country.

For several years previous to the close of the Spanish authority in Florida it was confidently expected that this province would eventually become a portion of the U.S. Many therefore, availed themselves of the opportunity of claiming a reward for the risk incurred in settling a new region, lost in the midst of strangers who were spreading rapidly over the country, their inherent right to the soil would be lost in the current of a new population. This therefore, accounts for the number of grants conferred in the latter years of the Spanish jurisdiction. But according to the 8th article of the treaty all the concessions made by the Spanish government after the 26th January 1818, all declared null and void, which if enforced will quash many of these claims and deprive many worth individuals of their meritorious rights.

In conferring these grants it was not exacted that the grantees would make an actual settlement upon the land they were given as remuneration for civil and or military service to citizens who resided principally at St. Augustine.

The Spaniards are essentially different from the Americans in their dispositions. They are of a more social character and fond of clustering together in towns and villages. Few of them can endure being isolated upon a remote farm several miles distant probably from his nearest neighbor and passing a greater part of his time within the narrow precincts of his own domestic circle. On the contrary, he loves to assemble nightly among his friends and talk of the “ancient and mighty sovereigns of Castille” or join in warbling forth a melody accompanied with his guitar. In fact, [illegible]… silent and alone, he will go talk Spanish to his horse, a language Sancho Panza tells us the animal will listen to with a most profound attention.

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Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida Hence, but few of these grants have ever been occupied or even definitely surveyed, and their locality can only be established be elaborate descriptions in their Patents. Many of these are so unsatisfactory as to render it almost impossible to substantiate the claim. Such has been the case with one of the most important concessions in the Territory, known as the Arredondo Grant. It occupies a space of 20 square miles in the very heart of the country and includes decidedly the very best land that has yet been discovered in the Peninsula. It was given to the mercantile house of Don Fernando de la Maza Arredondo and son at Havana on the 17th December 1817 in consideration of some important services performed by that house. It has been surveyed several times, first by the original parties and lastly by U.S. Government surveyors, which deviate considerably from the former location.

Another important grant or rather purchase was made the House of Panton, Leslie, and Co. situated between Apalachie and Apalachicola rivers after the country was obtained again by the Spanish from the English. They neglected no step to conciliate the good feelings of the Indians. They agreed to furnish them with such supplies of clothing and ammunition as they had been accustomed to receive from the English, and appointed the above firm government agents to furnish them with all requisite necessaries. In addition to what they held the government faith responsible for, these gentlemen credited the Indians to an immense amount and when the period of payment arrived rather than push for individual liquidation, they obtained permission to treat with them for a body of land as indemnification of all claims held against them. A payment thus easily made was agreed to by the savages, who gave up 1,200,000 acres which has descended to John Forbes & Co. as surviving partners of Panton, Leslie & Co., and is now designated on the map as the Forbes Purchase.

There are many other grants off minor importance besides these that are legitimately issued by the Spanish authorities, and as they originated under peculiar circumstances it may not uninteresting to give an account of the causes that led to these small sub-divisions. It is doubtless remembered by many persons of the present day that in 1812 a serious insurrection broke out and headed principally by American refugees which came very near revolutionizing the Peninsula and depriving the Spaniards of their authority. After 13 months contention, the Rebels were dispersed and the disturbance finally quelled. The Government published a general pardon and allotted three months time for the citizens to return to their duty, a period too short to allow vexatious feelings to subside. Many therefore could not trust these assurances given them by the Spanish governor and sought refuge in Georgia. In the following year, they returned accompanied by a gang of idlers and needy adventurers who gladly availed themselves of an opportunity of invading a country they were not privileged peaceably to enter and explore. For such was the jealousy existing in the minds of some of the Spanish authorities at the time they would not permit an American to cross the confines of the province. Their forces, however, were too much weakened by the past year’s contest to enable them to drive back or oppose these interlopers who spread themselves over the Alachua country and inflicting desolation and ruin among 166

Notes and Observations Upon the Present Condition of Florida the Indian settlements. Finding no enemy to oppose them, and being masters of a fertile region, they resolved to establish a Republic of their own upon the agrarian principle and engaged surveyors to trace off portions of the best lands they discovered. They remained in the country for some time, until the Indians, enraged at the wanton sacrifices of their property, collected en masse strong enough to oppose and expel them.

The Spanish Surveyor General who was a man of keen perception hearing of these survey, took the trouble to collect most of them together; he possessed sufficient influence with his government to have most of them confirmed to himself; and afterwards sold them to different individuals who were anxiously looking forward to the period when they might be permitted to settle in the country.

The Floridians, especially the executive, are inimical toward these concessions as they imagine they have the tendency to deter immigration. The proprietors will soon be obliged to bring them into market from the weight of taxation that will in a short time be levied against them. Among the many characteristics with which this country abounds, the numerous sink holes are not the least peculiar. They are found in every section of the Territory. The most remarkable one is situated in the center of a large tract several miles in extent known as Payne’s Prairie, which is concavous in form and is sometimes inundated with water of sufficient depth to float a ship. This was the case during the past winter and the whole of this vast accumulation of water was drained off by means of some subterraneous passage of which the sink hole in the center was the funnel or mouth.

[His manuscript unexpectedly ends here, apparently unfinished.]

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