Home Improvement And Repairs Winter 2022

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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS

DECKS THAT

MAKE THE GRADE U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95

PAGE 26

ISSUE #15 JAN/FEB 2022

HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

INSIDE BEGINNER TIPS TO APPLY A GLASSY FINISH WITH WOOD EPOXY CREATE A CLASSIC LOOK WITH A WOOD PLANK CEILING LEARN MORE ABOUT FLOATING FLOORS STEP BY STEP: HANG A SPLIT-JAMB INTERIOR DOOR

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TM

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Last-Deck

THE LAST DECK YOU WILL EVER NEED

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last-deck requires no staining or sealing, just mild soap and

last-deck 300 series The 300 series is a patented,

water for cleaning. No warping,

watertight product that has the

splitting, cracking, rotting, molding,

ability to be replaced without having

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to start at one end. Should you

Deck is available in a multitude of

receive damage at the mid-way point

options allowing you to design your

of your deck, simply pop up 2 joiner

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strips, replace the bad plank, snap

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the joiner strips back down, and your repairs are finished!

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300 series easily pop up and snap back down!

pat# 9,803,376

www.lastdeck.com information@lastdeck.com toll free: 866-527-8332

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INSIDE: 06 09 20 Cover photo courtesy of Mjolnir Construction

26 COVER FEATURE

DECKS THAT MAKE THE GRADE

DECKS BUILT NEAR TO THE GROUND CAN SIMPLIFY CONSTRUCTION—IF YOU BUILD THEM RIGHT

26

SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

1 2 EASY

04

MODERATE

32 38 45

LETTER FROM MATT WEBER START SMART • IBS PREVIEW • NEWS WIRE • ASK MATT SKILL SET THE CLICK, CLICK BOOM FROM FLOOR TO CEILING A WOOD PLANK CEILING OFFERS A CLASSIC LOOK SMOOTH MOVES BEGINNER TIPS TO CREATE A SMOOTH, GLASSY FINISH WITH WOOD EPOXY STEP-BY-STEP HANDBOOK HANG A SPLIT-JAMB INTERIOR DOOR

9

20

32

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KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL: LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

HARD

PRO

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER

We’ve talked a lot on these editorial pages about the demand for skilled trades throughout the U.S. and the huge gap between qualified tradespeople and the many jobs available to fill. Meanwhile, many college graduates across the country are finding difficulty landing employment in their preferred field of study. Plumbers and electricians are in high demand, while students who major in Art History or Shakespeare Studies are facing much stiffer competition to fill far fewer positions. Like it or hate it, this is an economic reality that is simple for me to understand.

What I don’t understand is the gap between available jobs and the unskilled labor force who once filled them but now seem to have disappeared. Since the onset of the pandemic, every gas station in my area has posted a “help wanted” sign. Same thing with grocery stores. Fast-food restaurants?

Forget about it. The once-thriving burger joints of my hometown have had to close their lobbies and resort to “drive-thru only” status for the past several months. And they’re so understaffed, that even if you wait in the car line, you’re

PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com

lucky if any food is prepared once it’s time to take your order.

What happened to the workers?

For a while, government stimulus checks were lining people’s pockets, but in most parts of the country that financial aid has dried up, yet bill collectors still continue to send invoices. At least, that’s the way it works at my house. So, if these former workers aren’t working, then who is paying their bills and why?

“People are sick of working for peanuts and won’t do it anymore,” summarizes an answer I’m often given when I pose this question, but it does nothing to enlighten me. In my experience, every worker in every job everywhere would like to earn more money doing what they do. That’s nothing new, but those same people keep clocking in to fulfill their many adult responsibilities, such as providing food and shelter for themselves.

“I think some folks have decided it’s just simpler to live in Mom’s basement,” is another answer I was told by a good friend. And this is a sad state of affairs because it illustrates not only a lack of ambition and a sense of entitlement, but it reflects the juvenile

ADVISORY BOARD JIM BUTTERS RANDY STEPHENSEN DUSTIN SCHWAIGER JEFF WINKLE CHIP LOVELADY MARK CLEMENT

assumption that other people, such as their parents, owe them a living.

Something tells me if a person embraces that kind of selfishness, then they would probably be a lousy employee anyway. The nonworkers should maybe drop that attitude, though, because free rides rarely last forever, and not everybody shares their lazy outlook. Smart people who enter the workforce will recognize that everyone has to start somewhere.

The folks who are first to remember that simple truth will be filling those entry-level jobs, climbing the ladder, and realizing new opportunities much faster than the stragglers. From my experience, hard workers generally enjoy more success in life than folks who sit around and sponge off of others.

So, get back to work America!

The country needs a strong, reliable workforce and a plentiful supply of cheeseburgers.

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS CARTER SWIFT TOM MATTHEWS COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER

CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com

AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO

Home Improvement & Repairs is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.

PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC

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STARTSMART IBS PREVIEW THE INTERNATIONAL BUILDERS' SHOW (IBS) 2022 IS SCHEDULED TO TAKE PLACE IN-PERSON FEBRUARY 8-10 AT THE ORANGE COUNTY CONVENTION CENTER IN ORLANDO, FLORIDA. IBS IS A ONCE-A-YEAR EVENT SPONSORED BY THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF HOME BUILDERS THAT SHAPES THE RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION

INDUSTRY. THE SHOW IS A HUB FOR NEW PRODUCT LAUNCHES, CONSTRUCTION DEMOS, INDUSTRY THOUGHT-LEADER SESSIONS, WORKSHOPS AND MORE. HERE’S A PEEK AT SOME HOT PRODUCTS FROM A FEW OF THE MANY COMPANIES WHO’LL BE EXHIBITING. LEARN MORE AT WWW.BUILDERSSHOW.COM.

1 OVERTURE IAC SYSTEM MFG: Broan-NuTone WEB: www.broan-nutone.com INFO: The Overture system from Broan-NuTone is the first fully-automated fresh air system that uses sophisticated sensors to monitor your home's indoor air quality. When it detects a rise in indoor air pollution caused by increased humidity, VOCs, smoke, carbon dioxide and small particles (sometimes referred to as PM2.5), the system will automatically turn on the nearest ventilation fan to eliminate the pollutant while simultaneously bringing in fresh, clean air from outside. The system is easy set up and controlled from your mobile device, combining a mobile app, sensors, switches, and connected plugs with your home's Broan-NuTone ventilation fans, range hood, and fresh air system.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART

2 WILSONART HOME QUARTZ COLLECTION MFG: Wilsonart WEB: www.wilsonart.com/quartz INFO: From marbles to abstracts to solids, you’ll find the most popular residential countertop designs in the new Wilsonart Home Quartz Collection. One of the hardest materials on earth, quartz is durable, stain resistant, and easy to maintain. The latest collection, Dramatic Landscapes, evokes the energy of some of the most magical places in the world, such as Hekla Slope, inspired by Iceland’s most active volcanoes, or Fossa Falls, with its soft white background and short waves of foggy gray.

3 DANVER/BROWN JORDAN OUTDOOR COUNTERTOP TABLE MFG: Danver Outdoor Kitchens WEB: Danver.com INFO: For your outdoor entertainment area, the new Countertop Table from Danver Outdoor Kitchens presents a versatile solution. The table is equipped with under-table storage and optional, hidden induction cooking capabilities. It can function as a kitchen island and/or workspace in outdoor kitchens. The induction, produced by InvisaCook, provides a cooking solution for small spaces or where a grill may not be practical. The Countertop Table endures weather with limited maintenance and is available in a number of the stylish and durable powder-coat finishes.

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4 THE FEENEY CABLE RAIL SYSTEM MFG: Feeney WEB: www.feeneyinc.com INFO: The Feeney Cable Rail System for decks, patios, and balconies features unique stainless steel fittings with special Quick-Connect technology, which attaches to the cable without tools. The one-way jaws automatically grab and lock on after the cable is inserted, making assembly and installation fast and easy. Cable rails preserve the view with slender cables and hidden fittings that virtually disappear. The weather-tough 316-grade stainless steel cable and fittings are ultra-low maintenance and precision manufactured for both residential and commercial projects.

Feeney now offers its new ColorEasy powder-coated colors for its DesignRail aluminum railing system—including realistic woodgrain finishes

5 LP SMARTSIDE MFG: LP SmartSide WEB: www.lpcorp.com/smartside INFO: LP SmartSide exterior cladding products feature engineered wood-strand technology that offers superior protection against hail, wind, moisture, fungal decay and termites. The proprietary LP SmartGuard process begins with quality wood strands or wood fibers. Next, every inch of every LP SmartSide product is treated to the core with an advanced formula of waxes, adhesive resins, and zinc borate applied before being bonded with a resin-saturated, water-resistant overlay. This process increases the products’ long-term strength and durability in a variety of weather conditions. LP SmartSide is available as lap siding, shakes, vertical panels, trim, fascia and soffits. The products come in 16 prefinished colors and are backed by a 5/50-year limited warranty.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART

6 SMART HOME WITH NETATMO MFG: Netatmo WEB: www.legrand.us INFO: Optimized for whole home use, the Adorne and Radiant with Netatmo solutions create a dedicated network that can support advanced control of lights and power in any home environment. This makes the solutions ideal for larger homes and homes where Wi-Fi signals might struggle due to building material or the use of many smart products. The Netatmo solutions install in place of standard switches and outlets, and can be easily set up in just a few taps. They can also easily connect to Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant, Apple HomeKit, or other leading home-automation systems to provide more comprehensive control.

7 ADVANTECH X-FACTOR MFG: AdvanTech WEB: AdvanTechXFactor.com INFO: Planning a room addition or house expansion? AdvanTech X-Factor is a new class of premium subflooring with a faderesistant, water-shedding surface on a highperformance engineered wood panel. With a built-in protective top layer, it takes moisture-resistance to the next level and pairs it with AdvanTech subfloor adhesive for a Squeak-Free Guarantee. Unlike common OSB and plywood panels that can show flaking, delamination, or discoloration from exposure to daily jobsite stress, AdvanTech X-Factor protects the panel quality and appearance. The water-shedding top layer provides a smooth, even surface that is marker-friendly and easy to clean.

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8 HARDIE TEXTURED PANELS MFG: James Hardie WEB: www.jameshardie.com INFO: Hardie Textured Panels (debuting nationwide in early 2022) marks the creation of a whole new category in home exteriors from James Hardie. Responding to consumer demand for more contemporary exterior looks, Hardie Textured Panels feature an integrated solution of fiber cement panels and aluminum trims. Combinations of contemporary textures and architectural lines allow homeowners to achieve a fresh look for any design— whether modern, transitional, traditional, or somewhere in between. The three textures (Hardie Smooth Sand Panel, Hardie Multi-Groove Panel, Hardie Knockdown Panel) can be oriented vertically or horizontally. Low-maintenance fiber cement siding offers non-combustible fire resistance and resists water damage.

9 SPRINGER COLLECTION 12-BLADE FARMHOUSE WINDMILL CEILING FAN MFG: Hubbell WEB: www.hubbell.com/progresslighting INFO: Relax under the refreshing breeze of the Springer Collection 60-in. 12-Blade Coastal Windmill Ceiling Fan, ideal for any great room, bedroom, living room or bonus room. The 12 blades are coated in a distressed walnut finish for a charming rustic character.

A 6-speed remote control is included to make it easy to customize your cooling breeze.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART

10 VERSATEX VZCLIP MFG: Versatex Building Products WEB: Versatex.com/finishing INFO: VZClip, an innovative hidden clip and fastener system from Versatex Building Products, speeds up and simplifies the installation of two widely used PVC 3/4-in. trim profiles.

Furthermore, test-site data shows the VZClips keep Versatex Canvas Series and reversible WP4/Nickel Gap trimboards firmly in place even at wind loads in excess of 125 mph. The clips avoid the need to nail through the board face and have more holding power than nailing through the tongue or groove. Versatex recommends installing VZClips onto framing every 16 inches on center, using #8 galvanized or stainless steel screws.

NEWSWIRE

RENT IS ON THE RISE You’ve heard about high home prices, but rent is up too. According to QuoteWizard, rent is rising fast in almost every state and major city. The team of analysts found that the average price of rent has increased 16 percent in 2021.

Key findings: • 16% increase in the price of rent nationwide • Rent has increased by nearly 30% in Rhode Island, Florida and Arizona • Phoenix, Jacksonville, Las Vegas and Boston have seen the largest increases in rent • North Dakota is the only state that has seen a decrease in rent since 2019

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CAREY BROTHERS RETIRE “ON THE HOUSE” MEDIA FRANCHISE Third generation Bay Area builders, remodelers and media personalities, Morris and James Carey—of Carey Bros. Remodeling and On The House Media—have announced the end of three-and-one-half decades of broadcasting, journalism and personal appearances that earned them unparalleled recognition as remodeling and home improvement “gurus” for millions of homeowners nationwide.

“I went to work for my brother Morris’ construction company in 1981 as a laborer and on January 1, 1984 we teamed up to form Carey Bros. Remodeling,” notes James Carey. “Our goal was to provide the best possible services for Bay Area Homeowners... but we soon realized numerous unscrupulous and unlicensed contractors were affecting both our business and the remodeling industry overall.”

Today’s Homeowner Media will take ownership of On the House Media, digital content, social channels and subscribers.

“I’m both happy and sad about James and Morris’ decision to hang up their headphones and step down from their 35-year home improvement media career,” says Danny Lipford, president of Today’s Homeowner Media. “They are legends in the business and will be missed! I am glad they’ve enjoyed such a successful

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

run, and grateful that I’m able to carry on their media tradition and legacy.

“As we all know, good quality home-improvement content is extremely important to the growth of a homeimprovement brand. The Carey Brothers have created a tremendous amount of great articles and videos over the years, and we plan on migrating that content over to Todayshomeowner.com early in 2022. We are already in the process of converting the majority of the radio stations that carried the Carey Brothers show to the Today’s Homeowner radio show including power house stations like the 50,000-watt stations KKOH in Reno, Nevada, and KLFE in Seattle, Washington.”

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> STANLEY BLACK & DECKER GIVES BACK The skills gap is an issue that’s been growing for decades and has only been exacerbated further by the pandemic. As parents push their kids into four-year colleges, trade schools have become stigmatized, which has resulted in fewer people available to do the work of building, repairing and making things. As a result of the shortage of skilled trade workers, 430,000 construction jobs are currently open in the US, with 10 million unfilled manufacturing jobs globally.

To combat skilled labor challenges, Stanley Black & Decker recently announced its Empower Makers Global Impact Challenge, which seeks to close the skills gap by

funding vocational training and reskilling programs.

Through the program, Stanley Black & Decker hopes to impact up to three million "makers" in the next five years.

And earlier this month, the company launched its fourth annual Maker Month… a celebration of the creators and makers who shape the world around us.

This year’s theme is “Thank a Maker,” which was chosen to demonstrate gratitude for the numerous skilled trade workers who have played a crucial role in keeping services operational throughout the pandemic.

Stanley Black & Decker will be contributing up to 25 million in grants to nonprofits.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART ASK MATT QUESTION: I need to replace a rotted fascia on a single-level house, but it is covered by 60 feet of metal gutter. How do I remove the gutter without destroying it?

ANSWER: The best way to remove the gutter fully intact is to have several workers unfasten it and lift it down at once.

However, if you don’t have a crew at your disposal, Jim Butters of Advanced Roofing & Metal Works suggests to carefully cut the gutter in half. Two workers on ladders should be able to carefully lift down the 30-foot lengths of guttering without bending the aluminum profile. After the fascia is replaced, you can replace the two halves of the gutter and repair the center joint using a metal gutter seamer and quality gutter sealant.

(Contact Jim Butters at 205-822-3231.)

QUESTION: What is the difference between a drip edge and a drip cap?

YOUR FAVORITE NON-SCRATCH SCRAPER TOOL JUST GOT ®

WIDER! Save Time and Effort When Cleaning Small Surfaces, Edges & Grooves!

ORIGINAL MODEL AND NEW WIDE BLADE FEATURES:

ANSWER: A drip edge is metal flashing that protects your shingle roof from moisture damage at the eaves and gable ends. It installs beneath the shingles to shed water away from the house.

The metal should be resistant to corrosion and 36 gauge or larger. A drip cap is similar but sits on top of doors and windows to direct water away from house the same way the drip edge does, preventing moisture from seeping in at the top. Some drip edges are made from wood, but the wood can rot, so PVC and aluminum alternatives are now widely used.

H

ROUNDED TIPS—BETTER SCRAPER THAN A FINGERNAIL FLAT-EDGED TIPS—WON’T SCRATCH LIKE A SCREWDRIVER POINTED TIPS—BETTER THAN A TOOTHPICK FOR CLEANING GROOVES AND CORNERS

Remove stickers, tape,caulk, putty, grime & more!

Available in original 2-packs, 5-packs and new wide blade 3-packs

Find us at www.scrigit-scraper.com, local hardware stores, and Amazon!

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

Need more info? Visit Matt’s blog at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com.

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SKILL SET

THE CLICK, CLICK BOOM

THERE IS MORE TO LEARN ABOUT FLOATING FLOORS THAN JUST “CLICK IT AND YOU’RE DONE.”

By Carter Swift

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Click flooring has become popular with DIY homeowners because of its simplified “snap-together” installation method. Click flooring requires no glue or nails, eliminating the need for specialized tools and reducing the labor required to complete the job. This type of flooring connects to the surrounding boards with a tongue-and-groove joint to create a floating floor system with a seamless appearance.

“Easy installation” is a relative concept, however, and the job can still be daunting for anyone unaccustomed to flooring work. The following article covers some important things to know if you plan on tackling the job yourself.

plywood or Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF). Some engineered flooring can be sanded and refinished, depending on the thickness of the wood veneer.

Laminate flooring is manufactured with a photograph of finished hardwood applied over MDF, which is protected by a wear layer.

Laminate flooring cannot be refinished.

Vinyl plank flooring is made without a wood component but can be manufactured with the appearance and texture of wood or even ceramic tile. Because it’s an all-vinyl product, it can be used as waterproof flooring in damp environments.

TYPES OF CLICK FLOORING Engineered flooring is manufactured by adhering genuine hardwood to layers of

SITE PREP If installing a wood floor, it’s a good idea to use a moisture meter to test the moisture

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SKILL SET barrier may help mitigate moisture problems and protect the new flooring.

All subfloors must be flat. This means there should be no high or low spots within 1/8 inch over a 6-ft. span, or 3/16 inch over a 10-ft. span. High spots can be sanded or grinded down and low spots filled with floor-patching compounds. Set any protruding fasteners flush into the subfloor.

On wood subfloors, take the opportunity to walk over the entire area and listen for any squeaks. If you locate any, drive long screws through the subfloor and into the joists to tighten the connection and arrest any movement that can cause the noise.

Click flooring is available as laminate, engineered wood, and vinyl plank, which all vary in cost, looks and performance, so do plenty of research when selecting.

content of the subfloor. Moisture can cause cupping, buckling and other related issues. Never install a wood floor over a known moisture condition.

Moisture content should be kept below 12 percent to protect wood from rot or decay. Installation of a plastic moisture

UNDERLAYMENT One key to a successful click flooring installation is choosing the right underlayment. The underlayment is a thin engineered material that usually comes in rolls and lays between the subfloor and the new flooring. Many underlayments include a vapor barrier that helps protect against moisture, mildew and mold. The denser the underlayment, the more it smooths out minor imperfections in the subfloor. Thicker underlayments make walking and standing more comfortable by adding cushion to the hard surface.

They can also add a layer of insulation

The right underlayment can add moisture protection, insulation, sound absorption and more comfort underfoot.

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THE CLICK, CLICK BOOM

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be stored 48 hours in the room where it will be installed, so the material can adjust to the temperature.

Unroll the underlayment across the floor and cut it to fit along the walls. Butt the seams together, taping if necessary. and even dampen sound transmission to reduce noise and vibration. The type of underlayment you need depends on the type of material you’re using, whether you’re installing over wood or concrete, and how much comfort you want.

Installing the underlayment is usually a simple procedure. Line up the edges of the underlayment against the wall and cut it to fit using a sharp utility knife. Lay the strips until you’ve covered the subfloor. Make sure seams abut together rather than overlap. Tape the seams if necessary.

When installing wood over concrete, even if your underlayment provides some moisture protection, a 6-mm poly should be installed as an extra vapor barrier to protect beyond the underlayment’s capability.

Some types of click flooring come with an underlayment pad already attached to the bottoms of the boards, but you can usually install an additional pad for extra warmth and comfort.

Check the floor manufacturer’s guidelines for additional underlayment approval.

Prior to installation, refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines on how to acclimate the new flooring.

The instructions often indicate the flooring should

LAYOUT Before laying the floor boards, check the room for square. Use the 3-4-5 rule to check that the corners form right angles. Measure and mark a point that is 4 feet from the corner along one wall.

Measure and mark a second point that is 3 feet from the corner on the intersecting wall. A diagonal line between the two points should measure 5 feet if the walls are at 90 degrees. In large rooms, you can double the ratio (i.e., 6-8-10).

The first rule of flooring layout: Make sure your board pattern is square even if the room isn’t. If one wall is significantly out of square, then lay out the floor so the tapered boards will run along the least noticeable wall.

Next, measure the width of the room and divide it by the width of the floor boards. Based on your measurements, will the final row of boards only leave enough room for a partial sliver of flooring?

If this is the case, then consider ripping the first row thinner to leave room for a wider, more attractive row of flooring against the opposite wall.

You’ll also need to consider where other fixtures and wall projections will intersect the boards and

Plan your layout carefully and make sure to establish a square installation with your first rows.

Use plastic spacers between the wall and flooring to maintain an expansion gap.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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SKILL SET

The simplest type of click flooring, called Angle-Drop flooring, is designed to be installed without tapping or lifting. Angle-Tap flooring is designed to use a hammer to install. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for guidance.

A hammer and tapping block can help apply pressure to close the tongue-and-groove joints, but be sure to use a tapping block that won’t damage the boards. A rubber mallet can be useful to smooth out stubborn seams from the top.

In general, it’s easier to connect the long joints first and then close the short joints.

A hammer and tapping block will help to lock together the joints on many types of click flooring. Pro tip: Use stacks of flooring to weigh down the first rows, which tend to shift around from the hammer taps until enough flooring is assembled to provide the adequate weight and friction to prevent movement.

A flooring mallet can help close stubborn flooring seams from the top side.

Along the wall edges, you’ll need to lock the flooring joints together by using a hammer and pull-bar rather and tapping block. It may also be helpful to hold the plastic wall spacers in place with painter’s tape. do your best to avoid small sliver boards whenever possible.

INSTALL THE FLOORING To assemble click flooring, the boards typically connect by inserting the tongue into the groove at roughly a 20-degree angle. Then, press down on the board while applying forward pressure to lock it in.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

Mix the planks before you install them so that you don’t end up with too many light or dark panels next to each other. If installing boards with an artificial wood or tile look, be careful to avoid repeating the pattern by separating identical boards from each other.

As you lay the rows, use plastic spacers or wood blocks to maintain a 1/4-in. gap around between the floor and walls, which allows space for the natural movement and expansion of the floor.

At the end of the rows, you’ll usually have to cut the final board to fit. A powered miter saw or dedicated flooring saw are the best tools to trim the boards. Many times, the cut-off piece can be used to begin the next row of flooring. Stagger the end joints of the rows by 8 inches or more.

Once the flooring is complete, install baseboards and/or shoe molding to conceal the expansion gap along the walls and give the new floor a finished look. H

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SKILL LEVEL

DECKS THAT

MAKE THE GRADE

3 HARD

DECKS BUILT NEAR TO THE GROUND CAN SIMPLIFY CONSTRUCTION—IF YOU BUILD THEM RIGHT.

Grade-level decks present an attractive alternative to hardscaping and are often less expensive to build than elevated decks.

“The most popular choice of deck among our customers is a floating deck, which is low to the ground and requires no railing,” says Kerry Murray, owner of Mjolnir Construction of Stittsville, Ontario.

In the U.S., decks built lower than 30 inches from the ground don’t require guardrails. (The rule is 24 inches in Ontario, so check local codes).

If a grade-level deck is built as a freestanding structure, it won’t require a ledger connection to the house or the associated hardware, nor will it require excavation for frostdepth footings. In many cases, a ground-level deck won’t even require a building permit.

Photos Courtesy of Mjolnir Construction

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DECKS THAT MAKE THE GRADE

FOOTINGS Because freestanding or “floating” decks do not require frost-depth footings, the posts and beams can be supported by shallow footings.

This is due to the low safety risk of frost heaving on a ground-level deck. You should always check with your local code-enforcement department for specific guidance, however, which might require you to dig a minimum footing depth of 12 inches below the ground.

For grade-level freestanding decks, you can skip the time and labor associated with mixing concrete by using precast concrete piers or stacked and glued concrete blocks as footings. s On the deck shown, Mjolnir Construction prevented 100 pieces of lumber from going into the landfill. The customer wanted the deck framed with new pressure-treated material, but for the deck boards and skirting they wanted to use reclaimed 2x6 lumber that had been given to them from a construction site. Mjolnir designed the frame to accommodate the lengths of 2x6 to avoid unnecessary joints in the deck boards, then a good pressure-wash brought out the unique appearance of the wood. After a waterproofing stain is applied, this deck will stand the test of time and demonstrate the company’s commitment to being an environmentally conscious small business.

s Composite decking can provide a sleek uniform deck surface in a wide range of lowmaintenance colors and textures. Notice the bed of river rock to facilitate drainage beneath the framing. Photo courtesy of Mjolnir Construction.

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IN THE U.S., DECKS BUILT LOWER THAN 30 INCHES FROM THE GROUND DON’T REQUIRE GUARDRAILS JOISTS & BEAMS A slope in the grade might allow clearance for a cantilever beam on one side of the deck, but if there’s no room for a beam, then the rim joist will serve as the beam, and the joists will connect to the rim with metal hangers. Corner brackets can help maintain squareness of the deck frame during construction. Double or triple the thickness of the rim to add strength and rigidity to the framing.

You should frame the deck with Ground Contact Lumber. Ground contact means that the pressure-treated lumber is approved for applications that require the component to be either placed on or directly in the ground (such as deck or fence posts). Even if the lumber doesn’t actually touch the ground, this type of lumber should be used because it has extra preservative to better withstand near-to-the-ground conditions where moisture can be more prevalent because ventilation is limited.

Due to the limited ventilation below the deck, another option would be to upgrade the metal

s Grade-level floating platforms can be incorporated into multilevel decks, as shown on this project from Mjolnir Construction.

s In many cases, lack of clearance beneath the deck surface means the rim joist will serve as the beam with the joist connected to it with metal hangers. Fortifying the rim joist by doubling or tripling its thickness will add strength and rigidity to the deck frame.

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Landscape fabric beneath the deck frame will prevent weed growth.

hangers and hardware to stainless steel which will prevent corrosion.

MOISTURE CONTROL Since moisture can be an issue for gradelevel decks, you should begin by sloping the earth away from the house foundation to ensure there is positive drainage.

One way to prepare the site for moisture control is to dig out the earth of the deck site, line it with a layer of landscape fabric to prevent weed growth, then backfill with 3/4-in. clear limestone that will shed water away from the framing to facilitate drainage.

Check your decking manufacturer’s recommendations regarding any further requirements for air circulation to prevent any performance problems. Products and guidelines will vary.

H Editor’s note: Special Thanks to Kerry Murray and Mjolnir Construction for contributing to this article. You can find Mjolnir Construction online at https://mjolnirconstruction.ca and follow their Instagram page @mjolnirconstruction.

To facilitate drainage, Kerry Murray suggests adding 3/4” clear limestone beneath the deck over the landscape fabric.

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Strong Foundation “We were asked how we prepare the base for our floating decks, and here is how,” explains Kerry Murray of Mjolnir Construction. “At the wall of the house, which is the highest point in the yard, we remove the grass and 4 inches of dirt. Then we fill this pocket with limestone and tamp it down to pack it. We lay down a 16"x16"x2" paver stone, which ends up being flush with the finished grade, giving us our base.

The beam of our deck then sits directly on top of the paver stone to keep the deck as low as possible to the ground. As the grade drops further away from the house, we simply add a 6x6 post to make up the change in grade.”

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SKILL LEVEL

4

FROM

PRO

FLOOR TO CEILING

By Matt Weber

A wood plank ceiling offers a classic look that has become increasingly popular in recent years. In some cases, a DIY’er can complete a simple installation to give a rectangular room a decorative upgrade. For more complicated projects that are “over your head,” you’d better call a construction pro.

DETAILED WORK Installation of a plank ceiling is essentially the same as a plank floor, but working on a ceiling can present some unique challenges.

With flooring, for example, boards with square edges that butt flush against each other can create a smooth floor surface, even if the boards have slightly different heights. Although the height difference can result in a bit of lippage when installed, a floor sander usually levels out the boards. You won’t be able to sand down a ceiling, however, so the lippage would remain visible. For this reason, homeowners and contractors often prefer boards that have beveled edges which form V-shaped channels when assembled. The V-grooves hide slight discrepancies in the ceiling.

The ceiling boards should be allowed to acclimate to the room where they’ll be installed.

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FROM FLOOR TO CEILING

As with flooring installation, you’ll need to plan a square layout that eliminates small sliver boards or noticeable pie-shaped cuts along the walls. Snap chalk lines to help guide the layout.

Even though you can’t use a floor sander, keep in mind that unfinished wood needs to be sanded in order to take stain uniformly. For this reason, it’s a good idea to sand and pre-finish the boards before installation.

Beveled boards present their own challenges, though. On the project shown, for instance, the

crew from Dustin Schwaiger Construction of Cullman, Alabama, weren’t working with a simple rectangular ceiling. These guys were tasked with installing the T&G boards on a multi-angle vaulted ceiling, which is not something you’ll encounter when laying a floor. Due to the intersecting angles, each board had to be cut to a precise bevel and/or miter angle that joins the surrounding boards with perfect alignment and near-seamless accuracy. The cuts require a compound miter saw, and if the angle is off, then the boards won’t align, and the V-grooves will be visibly mismatched when installed. That was unacceptable to the Schwaiger crew.

“Our plan on this job is to install the boards so tightly that there will be no need for trim,” explained Dustin Schwaiger.

The intersecting angles of this vaulted ceiling made for a complicated installation.

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Dustin Schwaiger runs the crew and operates the compound miter saw.

Installation can require several trial cuts to dial in the perfect angle.

If you think this sounds like a difficult task, you’re right, and the challenges are compounded by construction realities such as built-up joint compound at the drywall seams. When the flat ceiling surface is pushed just slightly out of plane by the drywall mud, it can affect the angle of the board joint. This can be frustrating even for an experienced professional. To battle this problem, Schwaiger would use a scrap board to make the cut, test its fit against the adjoining boards, readjust the cut angle until it achieves a perfect fit, then reproduce the final angle on the boards to be installed. This can be tricky, time-consuming work, and it’s why a project this complicated should be referred to a contractor.

INSTALLATION BASICS Ceiling plank installation is generally the same as for a floor. The boards should be prepared the same way by acclimating the wood to the space where it will be installed.

For finished ceilings, first disconnect the electricity and remove all light fixtures and other obstacles. If the framing is not exposed, use a stud finder to locate and mark the ceiling joists. Scaffolding will be a huge help on any major ceiling project.

In general, floor planks should be installed perpendicular to the ceiling joists, although the addition of a sub-ceiling or a layer of perpendicular furring strips will allow you to install parallel to the joists. If this is not an option, you can nail into solid framing where it’s present, glue the backs of

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Matthew Hancock fastens the boards in place with 16-gauge nails.

A scaffolding system will be a huge help on any ceiling project.

the boards with construction adhesive, and blind-nail the T&G joints during installation.

You’ll encounter the same general layout issues as with any floor installation. Measure the ceiling area and divide by the exposed face of a plank to avoid being left with a small sliver of boards on the final row. If that is the case, then begin installation with a ripped partial board to allow room for a larger final row.

Also, check the ceiling for square. If the diagonal measurements in each corner aren’t the same, you should establish a square, straight line as a starting point. The key is to create a line parallel to the end wall. A chalk line can help guide the installation. Establishing a square first row will avoid having odd pieshaped planks along the final row.

When installing boards parallel to solid framing, construction glue is applied to the backs of the T&G planks.

Nail the boards solidly into the framing. On the project shown, the crew fastened the boards with 2-1/2-in. 16-gauge finish nails, supplementing this with construction adhesive. Avoid driving fasteners closer than an inch from the end grain to avoid splitting the wood. Using construction glue reduces the need for nails and the associated repair work. Gluing will also prevent the planks from rattling and vibrating.

For ceiling installations, homeowners often prefer full-length boards to avoid visible end joints. If you or your installer are not using full-length boards, then be sure to stagger the end-joints from row to row.

The cut edges of the planks along the wall edges can be hidden with molding or trim strips stained to match the new ceiling.

Or, maybe your installer has skills like Dustin Schwaiger and crew, who cut and installed

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In some cases, shims might be necessary to achieve a perfect fit to the joints.

Professional installation can achieve a near-seamless appearance.

the boards on this project with such precision that no trim was needed. That’s quite the accomplishment on a vaulted ceiling like the one shown here, but these guys succeeded spectacularly.

H Editor’s Note: Special thanks to Dustin Schwaiger Construction company for help with this article. Find them on Facebook and Instagram @dustinschwaiger.

This ceiling was installed with such care and attention to detail that no trim or molding was necessary to dress up the edges.

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SMOOTH MOVES BEGINNER TIPS TO CREATE A SMOOTH, GLASSY FINISH WITH WOOD EPOXY.

By Matt Weber Bars, countertops, and table tops are among the most popular projects to feature a smooth, glass-like finish that highlights and preserves the wood beneath it. This durable finish is created by using a two-part epoxy resin that self-levels upon application. The epoxy can provide a clear transparent protective layer to see the wood underneath or can be tinted with powdered or liquid pigment colorants. The right coloring effects can produce intriguing designs or even faux granite or marble-like epoxy countertops.

The job requires high-quality epoxy resins. I chose WiseBond Epoxy Systems and their Bar & Table Top epoxy, which is known for its ease of use and its high-shine, crystal clear transparency. My plan was to preserve the color and grain character of a coffee table I made from reclaimed tongue-and-groove pine that I salvaged from my grandparents’ old barn.

This article shows how I completed my first epoxy project and offers a few tips to help guarantee success on your projects at home.

PREP STEPS The Bar and Table Top epoxy is designed to harden over and preserve whatever it coats, so make sure you’re fully satisfied with the look of your project before application. Also, make sure the surface you’re coating has no “leaks.” For example, the coffee table shown had a hole in the trim at one corner, and when I poured the epoxy flood coat over the table, the epoxy drained through the hole rather than pool and achieve

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SKILL LEVEL

2 MODERATE

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SMOOTH MOVES

WORK SITE The coating process involves flooding liquid epoxy over the entire table top, including the edges. This means epoxy will be dripping off the sides. To limit the mess, I placed the coffee table over a large 4x8 sheet of plywood covered

with a plastic drop cloth to catch the runoff.

Make sure to arrange a similar worksite for your project to retain the excess product and facilitate cleanup afterward.

It’s also important to work indoors in a dustfree environment, so airborne particulates don’t float down onto your crystal-clear coating before it has fully cured. Keep in mind fluorescent lights in your work area can create static electricity which can attract dust to the bulbs. Then, when the lights are turned off, the dust can fall because there is no static attraction. This dust can fall right into your epoxy, destroying the glossy finish. Another trick is to use a pop-up tent covering your project to eliminate as many falling particles as possible.

The two-part epoxy product should be stored between 70°F and 85°F before mixing, and the work space air temperature should be no warmer than 85°F. If the parts A and B are cooler than 70°F, warm the containers in hot tap water. If crystals are present in A or B, place the closed containers in 120°F tap water until crystals dissolve, then let the containers cool. You should only use A and B when the liquid temp is 85°F or under to prevent premature curing.

Knowing the porous nature of the reclaimed wood would be susceptible to air pockets that could form bubbles in the epoxy finish, I took the opportunity to seal the boards with a water-based poly when constructing the table.

Epoxy application requires a very clean, dust-free work environment. It’s a messy job, so arrange drop cloths to catch the spill. Thoroughly wipe and clean the surface before a pour with acetone and wipe dry with shop towels.

the self-leveling effect (which forced me to seal the leak from the underside of the table then reapply the coating).

If you’re working with a very porous wood or other material subject to epoxy flowing through it, you can build a form to completely surround the object like a pan and catch the epoxy so it pools over the surface.

Prior to application, it’s extremely critical to clean the entire surface carefully. Any lint, wood dust or debris left on the surface will be stuck like a fly in amber if you don’t clean it off first.

Avoid using tack cloths or other fabric that can leave small fibers which can get caught in the finish. Surfaces with rough texture and high relief can be cleaned of dust by using compressed air. Thoroughly wipe the surface with acetone or denatured alcohol, then wipe dry with clean shop towels.

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The first coat is a seal coat to prep the work surface. I used Wisebond’s Quick Set Seal product, which is a two-part epoxy that dries in just a few hours.

If using a drill paddle, mix very slowly so as not to impregnate the epoxy resin with air bubbles.

MIX IT UP Carefully mixing the two-part product is a critical step. Use a clear mixing bucket with exact measurements printed on the side.

Measure one part Resin-A to one part HardenerB and mix thoroughly for 3 minutes with a paint stick or paddle mixer attached to a drill until the swirls and tails disappear. Swirls and tails floating around are a sure sign the epoxy isn’t yet completely mixed. Be careful not to over mix and whip air into the epoxy.

Next, pour the mixed epoxy into a second clean mixing container and mix for 1 minute.

This will ensure no unmixed A or B will contaminate the final pour. (Add colorants if applicable when epoxy is completely mixed.)

Note that improperly mixing the epoxy is the number one problem people face. Your measurements must be exact, because a hard epoxy cure is completely dependent on proper mixing.

extra protection, I coated the wood with waterbased poly prior to the seal coat, because I knew my reclaimed boards were especially porous.

The same two-part epoxy you’ll use on the flood coat can be used to apply the seal coat.

(However, I used Wisebond’s Quick Set Seal for the seal coat, simply because it cures in 2-3 hours and saved time on this project).

SEAL COAT In order to prevent air from escaping out of the project’s surface and creating a bubble when the epoxy is applied, you need to apply a seal coat prior to the final flood coat. In fact, for Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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SMOOTH MOVES Use quality mixing containers with the proper mix ratio. Never let the epoxy sit in the mixing container too long, because it will heat up in mass.

I used a paint brush to apply the seal coat epoxy as a thin layer, paying close attention to the table edges and areas with low spots and heavy relief. Next, I used a smooth plastic scraper to spread a skim coat over the entire surface that will later have a flood coat applied.

Multiple seal coats may be needed depending on porosity of the wood, countertop or bar top material.

Note that epoxy in a mixing container may last 15-20 minutes before it begins to gel. Prior to that, work time may be as long as 30 minutes

When applying the seal coat, make sure to coat any surfaces with high relief that could form an air pocket when the epoxy is poured on.

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as a thin layer, depending on air temperature, width, length and the overall surface area. The epoxy in a mixing container also heats up as it cures. Pour as soon as possible and do not let the epoxy sit in the mixing cup.

If you need multiple seal coats, recoat as soon as the first epoxy seal coat is at a hard tack. If the seal coat is older than 24 hours, sand with 220-grit between coats and clean away the sanding dust. It might seem counterintuitive to sand between coats, because the abrasion scratches up and whitens the clear finish. However, once you follow up with further coats, the epoxy will bond to the sanded surface and return it to its crystal-clear appearance.

FLOOD COAT The final flood coat is so named because you’ll pour it onto and spread it over the entire project surface, allowing it to spill off the edges.

Apply the seal coat to the edges of the project to facilitate the flow of epoxy during the upcoming flood coat. Two or more seal coats may be needed, depending on porosity of the wood.

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After applying a thin seal coat over the entire project, allow it to completely dry. Scuff the hardened surface with 220-grit sand paper to ensure adhesion between epoxy layers.

Wipe away sanding dust with denatured alcohol.

Make sure you mix up enough product for full coverage in a single pour. Flood coat coverage is 12 sq. ft. at 1/8-in. thick per gallon.

Spread the mixed resin evenly using a 1/4-in. notched plastic trowel. Use thin pours of no more than 1/4 inch. Apply epoxy to the sides and edges of the table material surface before pushing epoxy over the edges. This “wets” the sides and edges, allowing the flood coat to smoothly flow in sheets over the edge instead of wandering drips. Continue to pour the remaining material to achieve the desired thickness, allowing the resin to flow evenly over the project’s sides. As you comb through the resin with the

notched trowel, you’ll see the epoxy fill into the grooves and level as a smooth, even 1/8 in. surface. Do not use a squeegee to spread epoxy. It will not produce an even thickness.

Keep an eye on the project for the next couple of hours in case it requires any maintenance.

For example, table top epoxy will have bubbles in it from mixing, and tiny bubbles might form if air escapes from the wood. However, you can easily eliminate (pop) those bubbles with a heat gun or propane torch.

Allow the resin to cure for 72 hours before handling. Seven days of cure is good for light use, and 30 days will achieve a full hard cure.

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For the flood coat, I used Wisebond Bar and Table Top Epoxy, which must be mixed in exact 1:1 ratio.

For the best coverage, apply epoxy to wet the edges and sides of the material surface before pushing epoxy over the edges.

FINAL THOUGHTS This coffee table was a sentimental project for me because it served as a memento of my grandparents and the time I spent at their home. Since this was my first foray into working with wood epoxy, I was worried I might screw up the finish. However, by carefully following the mixing and application instructions, I was able

to give my rustic table exactly the clear, glass-like surface that I’d hoped to achieve, and I couldn’t be happier with the results.

Apply the flood coat using a 1/4¨ notched plastic trowel to spread evenly.

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H Find out more about the Wisebond brand of wood epoxy products at www.wisebond.com.

During the flood coat, tiny bubbles might form if air escapes from the wood, but you can easily pop those bubbles with a heat gun. Allow the epoxy to cure for 72 hours before handling.

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HANG A SPLIT-JAMB INTERIOR DOOR

By Tom Matthews the door frame easily. Make sure the threshold is level, the hinge side of the rough opening is plumb, and the head is square to the hinge side of the rough opening. Adjust the framing if necessary.

Split-jamb doors have a twopiece jamb that is separated lengthwise and sandwiches the wall between the two pieces. The door casing comes attached to each edge of the jamb. Each half of the jamb is installed separately, starting with the side that holds the hinges.

Step 2: Determine if you’re installing a right- or left-handed door. When inside a room, the door should swing open in the direction that makes the best use of room space, such as toward a wall where it will be least intrusive to the flow of traffic.

TOOLS REQUIRED Hammer, Phillips screwdriver, 24" level, 24" framing square, nail set, wooden shims, 8d and 16d finish nails, putty knife and wood filler.

Step 1: Verify the width and height of the rough opening is 1/2 inch larger than the width and height of the split-jamb door frame (discounting the pre-attached casing).

This will allow you to shim and square

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Step 3 Remove any staples, strapping, nails or plastic clips that hold the door frame and door together. Working with a partner, separate the door frame carefully.

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Step 4: The two parts of the door frame join together with a tongue-and-groove connection, which you’ll reconnect to install the door.

Step 5: Position the door unit into the opening and square it against the hinge side of the jamb.

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Step 6: Make sure the hinge side of the jamb is plumb and level so the door will operate correctly. It might help to drive 8d finish nails into shims through the jamb and doorstop near the top corners to secure the door in place while you adjust it.

Step 7: Block and shim the jamb at the hinge locations. Double-check to make sure that the door is still square and plumb.

Adjust the shims as needed. Use tapered shims inserted opposite of each other so that the jamb doesn't twist.

Step 8: Test the fit of the casing unit before driving the final fasteners.

Step 9: Inspect for any final adjustments to plumb, level and the fit of the splitjamb frame.

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Step 10: Replace one screw per hinge with a 3-inch screw to make the door installation more secure and to reduce the number of nail holes. Then, nail through the final shim locations with 16d finish nails. Follow the same steps to shim the jamb on the lock side of the door, and to fasten the door header, securing the shims with finish nails.

Cut away excess shim material. Test by opening and closing the door, and adjust if needed.

Step 11: Slide the second part of the door frame into place. Use a rubber mallet to tap the connection together if necessary.

Nail through both halves of the jamb

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HANG A SPLIT-JAMB INTERIOR DOOR into the center stop. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for further nailing guidelines for your door, such as recommendations to nail the trim on both sides of the door every 12 to 16 inches using 4d finishing nails. Fill all nail holes with putty.

Installation Note: Pre-hung door frames extend below the door slab to allow for different floor heights. The jambs can be trimmed as needed before beginning installation, but make sure to leave adequate space to allow air to pass under the door according to ventilation codes.

H Editor’s Note: Special thanks to Scott Webb and Richard Hamilton for contributing to this article.

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