Home Improvement and Repairs Winter 2021 Issue

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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS

HOW TO ORDER AND INSTALL A

NEW ENTRY DOOR U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95

PAGE 20

ISSUE #1 JAN/FEB 2021

HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

INSIDE MAKE THE RIGHT MOVES WHEN YOUR ROOF TAKES A HIT HOME IMPROVEMENT TRENDS FOR 2021 UPGRADE TO AN ELECTRONIC KEYPAD DEADBOLT STEP BY STEP: COATING A COUNTERTOP WITH SPREADSTONE

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INSIDE: 06 09

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20 COVER FEATURE

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HOW TO ORDER AND INSTALL A NEW ENTRY DOOR

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A DOOR WITH MORE

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36

SKILL LEVEL

1 2 EASY

04

START SMART • WHICH REMODELS BUST THE BUDGET? • WHAT’S ON TREND FOR 2021?

• ASK MATT • WORLD OF CONCRETE 2021 ANNOUNCES NEW SHOW DATES SKILL SET ELECTRONIC KEYPAD DEADBOLT ROOF DAMAGE CHECKLIST MAKE THE RIGHT MOVES WHEN YOUR ROOF TAKES A HIT HOME IMPROVEMENT TRENDS FOR 2021 WE BRING THE NEWS TO YOU WITH THIS EARLY LOOK AT WHAT’S AVAILABLE FOR 2021 STEP-BY-STEP HANDBOOK COATING A COUNTERTOP WITH SPREADSTONE

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SKILL LEVEL

LETTER FROM MATT WEBER

MODERATE

36

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KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL: LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

HARD

PRO

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER

IT’S NOT ONLY BEEN A CHALLENGING YEAR, FOR MANY IT’S BEEN DOWNRIGHT OVERWHELMING. This issue marks the first anniversary of Home Improvement and Repair magazine. Our team introduced HIR Issue #1 to the world with a full head steam last January at the 2020 International Builder’s Show in Las Vegas. We had all been working together on a similar magazine for the past 15 years, and in the wake of a corporate buyout, we teamed up and launched a title of our own.

Little did we know the headwinds that we, and the world at large, would face in the months to come.

Wow. It’s not only been a challenging year, for many it’s been downright overwhelming. We all know the tragically high human cost of the

PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com

pandemic. Many people throughout the world are struggling financially as a result, and countless business owners have lost their livelihoods.

The HIR team, however, is humbled and blessed to have survived the rocky waters, due in large part to 2020 having been a banner year for home improvement. As it became clear that people would be spending more time at home, the need to improve, repair and remodel their living spaces suddenly became a top priority across America. Many of those homeowners became hungry for knowledge on how to fix up their homes, and how to make sense of the many systems of a house.

ADVISORY BOARD JEFF WINKLE CHIP LOVELADY JIM BUTTERS KATHY ZIPRIK MARK CLEMENT ROB ROBILLARD LARRY CLEMENT

To the extent we were able to help those homeowners, we feel honored. And to the many readers who have helped us by reading our stories, subscribing to our newsletter, and following us on social media, we are deeply grateful. Thanks to you, we’re still in business and will continue to bring you the latest news on tool trends, home technology, and skill-building advice for your many home projects to come.

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS CARTER SWIFT TOM MATTHEWS COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER

CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com

AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO

Home Improvement & Repairs is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.

PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

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STARTSMART

WHICH REMODELS BUST THE BUDGET? HOME-IMPROVEMENT FINANCE SPECIALISTS REVEAL WHICH ROOMS ARE MOST LIKELY TO GO OVER BUDGET DURING A RENOVATION … AND WHY. The kitchen is the room that's most likely to go over budget, closely followed by the master bathroom. According to a new report from home finance specialists, RenoFi, kitchen remodels can be quite complex because you’re dealing with so many different elements: countertops, cabinets, appliances, plumbing, flooring, and more. In a bedroom, for example, there is no tiling involved, no major appliances being installed, and no countertops or cabinets, which add to the price of a kitchen not only in materials but in installation costs. Oftentimes, kitchen renovations will lead to a redesign of the first-floor layout, and first floor layout changes will be costly.

When it comes to master bathrooms, the many functional features combined with expensive installation

costs play a part in pushing up budgets. Showers often strain the budget because of the many optional upgrades and features homeowners want. Faucets, plumbing fixtures and shower components can be more expensive than people may expect. The price of water-resistant materials, such as tile, also varies widely, ranging from $5 to $25 per sq. ft. In many cases, homeowners will pick cheaper materials for the bathrooms to try to cut costs, not realizing that the cost of installation will still be quite expensive no matter what material you use. It’s also important to note that even “small” changes to a shower, like increasing space by six inches on each side, require complete relocation of the plumbing to get the space up to code and move supplies over.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART

GET ALL THE SPECIFICS OF YOUR PROJECT FINALIZED BEFORE YOU BEGIN CONSTRUCTION. 4 TIPS TO CUST COSTS 1. Splurge in the design phase, not the construction phase. Get all the specifics of your project finalized before you begin construction. Stick to a plan and avoid succumbing to the “while you’re there” syndrome, which is the temptation to add unplanned amenities once the project is underway.

2. Factor into your budget the expectation of previous contractor errors or building deficiencies. In many old houses, poor workmanship and mistakes from other contractors can cause homeowners to go over budget during a renovation, because the new contractors need to redo or fix things. Allow for an extra 3-5 percent of the overall budget to cover unexpected costs.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

3. Don’t necessarily go for the contractor with the lowest price estimate. Homeowners are often fooled by a lower hourly rate, but if you want good work done, it will be more expensive because you’re paying for the tradesperson’s expertise.

4. Explore your payment options. If cash is not an option, then research the available home-improvement loans, which include the choice of a RenoFi Loan, a Construction Loan, a Fannie Mae HomeStyle or FHA 203k Loan, a HELOC, a Cash-out Refinance, or an Unsecured Personal Loan. Home renovation loans let you borrow against the after-renovation value of your property, but you should research the options to determine the best fit for your financial situation. Learn more about the details and advantages of financing options at www.renofi.com.

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> WHAT’S ON TREND FOR 2021?

HOW HAVE HOME TRENDS EVOLVED IN THE WAKE OF THE PANDEMIC? HOMES.COM HAS PUBLISHED A FORECAST OF TRENDS FOR 2021 THAT REFLECT AN EVOLVING LIFESTYLE. “Grandmillenial” and “Cottagecore” home styles will take focus. According to the report, Cottagecore is “taking the feel of living the life in a cottage out in the country, but bringing that vibe to our homes no matter where we live. Cottagecore is also centered around a cozy feeling focusing on the simpler pleasures of living.” Characteristics include softer colors, functional décor, with lots of accents and textiles.

The Grandmillenial style incorporates all the “comforts of grandma’s home,” including vintage touches, patterns, nostalgia, but adding a touch of modern vibes of bold colors, coordinating patterns, “or even the soft touch of a velvet couch.”

The open-floor design so popular prior to the pandemic is now being reconsidered for 2021.

According to the report. “Now that more members of a family are working or learning from home, having enough spaces for everyone to have quiet, and less distractions is key, especially during video conferences. … Dining rooms during the day function as work spaces, while at night they transform back to a place to enjoy dinner together. Even home offices are getting a major facelift due to the shift in need. … Basements are gaining popularity, especially building them out to be something other than storage.” Read the full report at www.homes.com.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART QUESTION: How does cured-in-place-piping work for sewer drains?

ANSWER: Cured-in-place-pipe lining (aka CIPP or structural pipe lining) is a type of trenchless sewer repair for when your main house sewer line is damaged. The “trenchless” term refers to doing underground construction work using a minimally invasive technique without the extensive digging normally associated with sewer repair. CIPP or structural pipe lining involves creating a new pipe within the old one by inserting an epoxy-soaked liner into the damaged pipe and leaving it to cure for a few hours to make the pipe as good as new. The main benefit is that the repair can be performed without having to re-route traffic or dig a trench through your house. It’s faster than conventional methods and can usually be performed in hours rather than days.

QUESTION: How do I control the spillover at the roof line where rainwater flows down a roof valley with such velocity that it ramps over the gutter?

ANSWER: A Gutter Splash Guard is an aluminum accessory that screws onto to the upper edge of a gutter to keep water from shooting over the gutter in a heavy rain. Typically measuring about 3 inches tall and 16 inches wide, they’re designed to deflect water back into the gutter. These attachments are sold in straight or 90-degree corner configurations. Check your local hardware store for availability or search online for “gutter splash guard.”

ASK MATT

Need more info? Visit Matt’s blog at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com.

NEWSWIRE WORLD OF CONCRETE 2021 ANNOUNCES NEW SHOW DATE

World of Concrete has made the proactive decision to reschedule WOC 2021 from January to June. WOC will now take place June 8-10, educational offerings June 7-10, at the Las Vegas Convention Center. World of Concrete is the construction industry’s largest

annual international event for concrete and masonry professionals. Equipment manufacturers from around the world and exclusive U.S. distributors of equipment, tools, products and services for the construction, concrete and masonry industries. The event attracts approximately 1,500 exhibiting companies and occupies more than 700,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor exhibit space. Learn more at www.worldofconcrete.com.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

TREX COMPANY NAMED TO FORBES’ LIST OF AMERICA’S BEST MID-SIZE COMPANIES

Trex Company has been named to Forbes’ 2021 List of America’s Best Mid-Size Companies. The composite decking and outdoor living leader ranked #12 overall on this year’s list of 100 companies.

Trex is the world’s largest manufacturer of wood-alternative decking and railing and a leader in outdoor living with an extensive product selection that includes everything from decking, railing, lighting and deck drainage to fire and water features, pergolas, lattice, outdoor kitchen components and outdoor furniture.

For more information about Forbes’ 2021 List of America’s Best Mid-Size Companies, visit www.forbes.com/lists/best-mid-cap-companies.

To learn more about Trex, visit Trex.com.

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SKILL SET

By Matt Weber

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ELECTRONIC KEYPAD DEADBOLT

While raising three young kids, our house remains in a steady state of chaos, with several doors to the house being opened about 500 times a day (but closed back only half the time).

Keys get lost, and messages get mixed up, and in all this confusion, we've locked ourselves out of the house a few times. I decided to put an end to that by installing an electronic keypad door latch. I can still use an old-fashioned metal key as a backup, but plan to rely mostly on a personalized numeric code which I simply punch into the latch's keypad to unlock the door. With no metal key to keep up with, nobody will be stuck outside until someone with a key shows up to save the day.

Good news for DIY'ers who want to replace an existing deadbolt: This is a very simple upgrade that doesn't require any special tools or wiring.

First step is to unscrew the mounting bolts of the old deadbolt so you can separate the

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

lock assembly in two halves, which you can them remove from each side of the door. With the lock assembly out of the way, unscrew the the two screws mounting the deadbolt and pull the bolt assembly out from the edge of the door. With all the hardware gone, you're ready to add the new keypad lock.

Begin by installing the new bolt assembly, which might slip right into the old hole with no

IN ALL THIS CONFUSION, WE'VE LOCKED OURSELVES OUT OF THE HOUSE A FEW TIMES

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SKILL SET A VERY SIMPLE UPGRADE THAT DOESN’T REQUIRE ANY SPECIAL TOOLS OR WIRING

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ELECTRONIC KEYPAD DEADBOLT

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adjustment. Otherwise, it might be necessary to square up the mortise in the door's edge using a wood chisel so the face-plate fits flush with the wood surface. The Hickory Hardware product shown also includes an adjustment switch on the bolt, which can fit latch bore holes with either a 2-3/8-in. or 2-3/4-in. back-set.

The locking assembly installs similar to the ones you removed, but the interior side of the door utilizes an extra piece--a locking plate through which the two mounting bolts pass and thread into the the back of the exterior lock assembly. The exterior side of the lock includes the keypad, keyhole, adapter collar, and rubber backing, all of which you pre-assemble and install as a single piece.

When installing the lock assembly, it's important to thread the wire of the keypad under the door latch then through the wire passage on the interior mounting plate. It's also important to insert the flat arm of the exterior lock assembly through the latch while the deadbolt is in the unlocked position. meaning the slot should be oriented left to right, not up and down.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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SKILL SET

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ELECTRONIC KEYPAD DEADBOLT

Next, you'll need to connect the wire to the terminal on the back of the interior lock assembly. Push in the plastic connector until it fits snugly. Then, place the assembly over the metal mounting plate and fasten in place with the included metal screws. To activate the keypad door latch, add the batteries--four AAs, in this case.

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for setting your personalized code using the keypad. The last step is to snap on the interior battery cover to give the door a sleek, finished appearance.

That's all there is to it. And don't worry about dead batteries causing the lock to fail. A visual indicator flashes on the lock anytime the batteries get low, so you'll have plenty of notice to install new ones.

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HOW TO ORDER AND INSTALL A NEW ENTRY DOOR

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

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SKILL LEVEL

3 HARD

A

DOOR MORE WITH

By Carter Swift

Want your home to make a good first impression? Start with the entryway. Replacing an old, leaky exterior door with a modern upgrade can give your home a fresh look and increase its energy-efficiency.

ORDERING AN ENTRY DOOR

s

When it comes to the make and model of entry doors, you’ll find countless options to suit your preferred look and style, but there are some basic considerations to nail down before you place your order.

When it’s time to select a new exterior door, the first thing to determine is door size. The door must fit within the rough opening, which is the space left when you’ve removed the old door and its frame. You need to measure the rough opening, which is most accurately accomplished when the door casing is removed. The opening needs to be 1 to 2 inches wider and up to 3 inches taller than the door you are going to install.

For replacements, you can simply measure the existing door for the size you need.

Doors are measured in feet and inches.

A standard door measures 36 inches wide by 80 inches high by 1-3/4 inches thick.

When ordering a door, this size is also designated as 3/0 by 6/8 by 1-3/4, which means 3 feet, 0 inches by 6 feet, 8 inches by 1-3/4 inches.

Door thickness is fairly easy to determine unless you have a special application (normally 1-3/4 in. for exterior doors).

Make sure you’re clear on the terminology and how it relates to the design, fit and performance of the door. If you get the terms confused when ordering, you might end up with a door that has the latch on the wrong side, or a door that swings out instead of inward.

First, know the terms Inswing and Outswing, usually abbreviated on order forms as I/S and O/S. An Inswing door opens inward to the house. An Outswing

This custom-ordered, pre-hung replacement at the home of Michael and Paula Laney in Birmingham, Alabama, features an insulated door and gas-filled glass package for enhanced energy efficiency.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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HOW TO ORDER AND INSTALL A NEW ENTRY DOOR

door opens outward. Most entry doors are Inswing models.

Also, when ordering a door, it is critical to understand that “hinge placement” refers to the door when viewed from the outside looking into the home.

Left Hinge: This is an I/S door an O/S door with hinges on the left.

Right Hinge: This an I/S door or an O/S door with hinges on the right.

Will the door frame be included? A Prehung Door is a complete, ready-to-install

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

door commonly available “off the shelf” at home centers. Pre-hung doors are popular for their easy installation because they include the door slab, hinges, and weather-sealed outer frame that fits into a prepared doorway.

Note that custom-order doors can also be packaged as pre-hung units.

A Slab Door is a rectangular slab of wood, steel or composite without hinges or hardware.

A slab door will be more difficult to install than a pre-hung door.

Consider your glass options, because any door can be made to include glass. A pane of glass in a door that functions as a window is called a Lite. Most exterior doors have

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insulated glass for energy efficiency, but others may have beveled, silk-screened or stained glass. Glass comes in several shapes and patterns.

Divided Lite: Panes of glass that are divided within the door (or appear to be).

Grille: Plastic, wooden or metal details that give the appearance of divided lites, often in a grid pattern.

Front Door with Sidelites: A sidelite can be placed on one or either side of the door, or both sides.

Transom: A decorative accent placed above the door, which is usually available in three shapes: arch, ellipse and box.

Door suppliers generally offer customizable options in which they can make an order to your specifications, including sidelites and transoms pre-attached to the door frame to simplify installation.

For maximum savings on your utility bill, look for ENERGY STAR® certified entry doors, which include insulation of the door slabs and glass.

ILLUSTRATIONS OF INSTALLATION BASICS

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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HOW TO ORDER AND INSTALL A NEW ENTRY DOOR

STEP BY STEP

Door Installation Aids

To take off the old door, start by disassembling the lockset then removing the hinge pins (starting at the bottom). Lift the door out of place, then pry off the old trim. To remove the old jamb, cut through any nails or screws by running a reciprocating saw blade between the jamb and the house framing.

The rough opening needs to be around 1 to 2 inches wider than the door you are going to install, allowing room for adjustment and shims.

Clear the rough opening of any broken fasteners, insulation or old caulk. (If the rough opening is too large, you can add boards to the framing.)

Fitting the new door in place is usually a twoperson job, because one installer needs to be on the outside and the other inside to make adjustments. First, remove any cardboard packing or nails that hold the new door to the prehung jamb. Do not, however, remove the plug that connects the latch to the jamb, because this keeps the door closed during installation to keep the jamb in its rigid, rectangular shape.

Place the door in the rough opening by tilting or sliding it into position. Make sure the hinge side of the door is perfectly vertical. When you

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AIRSHIM The AirShim is a contractor-grade inflatable air wedge for door, window and cabinet installations. It’s designed to replace damaging pry bars and temporary wood shims. It allows a

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

1 have it lined up and have determined no major problems with the fit, apply caulk/sealant beneath the door seal. Reposition the door along the hinge side and fix it in place by tightly placing shims around the frame to hold its position. (Note: If the entry door is exposed to rain, add a sill pan or extra flashing beneath it to protect the subfloor from water damage.)

single installer to position and hold items in place, saving jobsite time and labor costs by providing a muchneeded extra hand in installations.

It's perfect for window and door installations, and for positioning appliances and equipment. Use it anywhere you need to lift and align objects. The AirShim is certified for a 300-lb. load rating and has an internal stiffener with a rounded corner so it fits into tight 3/32-in. gaps without folding. When inflated, its 2-1/2-in. gap-spanning capacity means greater lifting or pushing range and more versatility on the job or around the house. Visit www.calculated.com.

TOPSTAR FASTENING SYSTEM Available from U2 Fasteners, the TopStar Fastening System utilizes an ingenious two-piece “screw within a screw” to reduce labor for the plumb installation of door and window frames (jambs) and built-in cabinets.

When locked, the Top Star screw gets driven into the material, and when unlocked, the fastener’s inner screw turns independently from the outer portion for easy adjustment without shims. First, drill a 5/16-in. pilot hole in the jamb then use U2’s Crown bit to drive the Top Star through

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2 With the door in place, start at the top and measure carefully with the level. When the shim and the frame are correctly positioned, put a nail through the jamb to hold it in place.

Repeat the process, inserting more shims around the door frame to hold it securely while checking for level and plumb as you go. This

3 may require a lot of readjustments, but take your time and do it right.

Once the frame is held firmly, open and close the door to make sure everything fits. Inspect the top of the door to make sure it closes correctly with no gap. If you find errors, go back and make adjustments. You might need to add more shims on the latch side of the jamb to

the door frame and into the roughopening until flush with the jamb.

Then, slide off the crown to reveal the inner star bit and use it to adjust the Top Star’s inner screw, which moves the jamb in and out of the opening until plumb. This system is designed to make door installation

faster than using wood shims to make fine adjustments. When installed with the Top Star system, if a door goes out of plumb over the years, use the Top Star screw to adjust it back to plumb position.

Visit www.u2fasteners.com.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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HOW TO ORDER AND INSTALL A NEW ENTRY DOOR

help the door align correctly. Make adjustments until the door closes properly and the gap at the top is even, then fasten through the shims into the stud framing. To give the hinges extra strength, you can place shims behind them and hold them in place with longer hinge screws driven into the studs.

When the door is fully installed, it’s a good idea to apply expanding foam in the gap between the jamb and the rough opening. Be sure to use a low-expanding formula specifically designated for doors and windows.

Finally, install your trim package of choice and seal all seams with a flexible, paintable, weather-proof caulk. Prime and paint the trim, install your doorknob or handle-set, then the job is complete.

4

Troubleshooting Installation Getting the new door to fit perfectly square and plumb can be a challenge, especially for inexperienced installers.

Here are a few pro tips to help get the door to fit.

5

GAP TOO TIGHT ON THE SIDE? If a bowed jamb above the top hinge creates a gap that’s too tight on the strike side, drive shims between the framing and the hinge side of the head jamb until the gap is equal all around. (A bowed jamb is more common on the hinge side, but you also can use this trick to adjust the opposite side.)

GAP TOO TIGHT AT THE TOP? If the gap above the door is too tight on one side, then insert a flat bar beneath the jamb on the tight side.

Raise the jamb until the gap is even, then fasten in place.

DOOR SILL NOT LEVEL? In older houses, you might find the door sill is not level. If the height difference between the two sides of

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

the door is significant, the door won’t open and close correctly. Use a level to see if the floor is flat. If it’s not level, insert shims beneath the level until the bubble centers in the vial.

When it’s level, measure the gap between the level and the floor. Use a hand saw (or circular saw with fine-toothed blade) to trim that measurement off one side of the door jamb so the pre-hung door will have an exact fit within the rough opening. Be careful—the side that will be on the higher side of the sill is the side that needs to be shortened.

BRICK MOLDING IN THE WAY? Pre-hung doors commonly include pre-attached brick molding, which is wood trim surrounding the jamb to conceal gaps. The molding, however,

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interferes with insertion of adjustable wedge-shaped wood shims from both sides of the door (as they were designed to be used).

You might prefer to pry off the brick molding, install the door with shims, then reinstall the molding.

The photos show a recent door installation in Alabama, where Jeff Winkle and his Highland Properties crew found that the molding interfered with the painted brick surrounding the rough opening. Their solution was to remove the molding, rip it to a narrower size, then reattach it.

Once the door was installed, caulked and painted, the alteration to the brick molding became invisible.

You can reach Jeff Winkle and Highland Properties at (205) 281-4125.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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Door Alignment Trick for DIY'ers Have an old door that binds against the top corner of the jamb? Or maybe a large gap at the top of the door makes it difficult to seal when closed?

attached by only the bottom hinge, so keep the door closed where its weight will be supported by the jamb. If you open the door using only the bottom hinge, the top-heavy door can fall, bend the hinge, and tear out of the jamb.

Insert shims as needed between the jamb and the door to create clearance so the door does not bind.

Adjust a Crescent wrench to fit snugly around the hinge knuckles, then carefully bend the three jamb knuckles so they align with the knuckles on the door.

This is a common problem because the weight of a door is supported by the top hinge.

Over time, the door can sag away from the top hinge and bind at the opposite corner.

Here's a simple DIY trick to correct this problem.

Remove the hinge pins from the top two hinges. You can unseat the pins by driving an

8d nail into the hole at the bottom of the hinge.

Once the top pin is removed, the door will be precariously

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It might also help to use shims at the bottom to help close the top gap and achieve a consistent gap around the door.

A "side effect" of adjusting the door's alignment with shims is that the knuckles of the top hinge will become misaligned. This might also happen to the middle hinge to a lesser degree.

To complete the repair, apply lubricant to the hinge pins and then reinsert them through the hinge knuckles. The door should now swing freely and have a smaller gap around its perimeter.

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HOW TO ORDER AND INSTALL A NEW ENTRY DOOR

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

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SKILL LEVEL

4 PRO

ROOF DAMAGE 4 CHECKLIST

By Jim Butters and Matt Weber We expect our roofs to protect us from wind, rain, hail, UV rays and even falling trees, and those elements can take a toll over time. A very strong storm can shorten that time. Roof damage can pose an unavoidable expense for a homeowner, so it makes sense to be prepared and know how to handle it. Whether you’ll be repairing damage or replacing the roof, there is a lot to consider. For expert advice on what to do when disaster strikes or when the roofing simply wears out, HIR turned to Jim Butters of Advanced Roofing and Metal Works in Birmingham, Alabama.

BEFORE THE STORM “Do your homework before a storm hits,” says Butters on the value of preparation. “Now is the time to do a few things and know a few things.”

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MAKE THE RIGHT MOVES WHEN YOUR ROOF TAKES A HIT

Not all roof damage is immediately obvious, and not all damage qualifies as “storm damage,” so it’s important to know what your insurance policy will cover.

Start by finding some dependable contractors. Every homeowner should have a few key companies in their contact list; a reputable plumber, a reliable electrician, a solid HVAC company, tree-removal company, and a solid roofing contractor are the “must haves” in our book.

EVERY HOMEOWNER SHOULD HAVE A FEW KEY COMPANIES IN THEIR CONTACT LIST 32

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Winter Issue

Know the particulars regarding your homeowner’s insurance policy. The worst time to find out there is exclusionary fine print in your policy is after a tree crashes into the living room or wind rips shingles off your roof.

It’s also a good idea to know what your deductible is. That percentage option may have looked great when you were originally budgeting and choosing your policy, but now that a tree is resting on the dining room table, you might be wishing you had opted for a fixed specific deductible amount. Or, if you were one of those diligent people who opted for a “split deductible,” where some events trigger a fixed deductible and others trigger a percentage, you need to know what damages trigger which, and how much either is going to affect your checkbook.

It might also be wise to review how much your deductible covers on your January ’To-Do’ list each year, at least until you get

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ROOF DAMAGE CHECKLIST

a feel for your home’s value as it relates to any type of percentage deductible.

AFTER THE STORM It’s not uncommon to wake up the morning after a storm and find loose shingles strewn across the lawn. The first question is always: Did this come from my house or my neighbor’s?

More questions follow. Is the damage due only to the storm, or is the roof getting old?

Should you patch damaged areas, or is a total roof replacement required?

First, assess your situation.

“Your first impulse may be to grab a ladder,” says Butters, regarding DIY homeowners, “but should you? Our recommendation is no. First and foremost, it could be dangerous.

Multi-story homes and steep roofs pose challenges we don’t recommend the average homeowner take on. Secondly, we see a lot of roof issues created by well intended homeowners or handymen who don’t know the ins and outs of correctly traversing a roof, and insurance doesn’t cover homeowner-inflicted damage.

A better option is to grab a pair of binoculars.”

The main expanse of the roof (called the roof field) is usually covered with shingles, metal, tiles or wood shakes. With asphalt roofs, look for shingles that are slipped, missing, or not lying flat. If you notice discolored shingles, that can also indicate a problem, but it most likely isn’t storm related.

If you have a tile or slate roof, look for any missing tiles, or tiles or slate that have slipped out of position, especially along the ridge line.

Look for cracked or chipped tiles on the field.

If you spot any of these things, it’s time to call a qualified tile or slate roofer (no, not all roofers are qualified for tile or slate installations). Never walk on the tile yourself, and don’t believe anyone who tells you a drone inspection can find all of the wind damage on a tile roof.

On wood-shake roofs, look for shingles that are shifted, slipped, cracked or missing.

On metal roofs, look for seams that are not laying flat, bent edges or missing fasteners. If you spot any of these things after a good windy storm, it’s time to call a roofer.

The vertical board running along the edge of the roof line is called the fascia. This area can sometimes be affected by storm damage due to flying debris, or gutters twisted by extremely strong winds.

After looking over the roof from outside your home, it’s time to hit the attic. Be careful to step only on solid framing.

“You don’t want to drop in on your wife in the kitchen via an unannounced crash through the ceiling,” warns Butters.

While inside the attic, do you see any rays of sunshine peeking through the roof? Using your flashlight, do you see any funky stains on the insulation or attic floor (interior ceiling). Do you detect any odd smells floating around?

If you find these things but didn’t find anything on the outer roof, then odds are high you have some maintenance issues. If you found issues on the outside, these things can confirm your exterior findings.

YOU FOUND DAMAGE. WHAT’S NEXT? On discovering roof damage, most homeowners impulsively pick up the phone and call their insurance company.

Hail damage marked on a roof.

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MAKE THE RIGHT MOVES WHEN YOUR ROOF TAKES A HIT The scope of work involved in roof replacement typically requires multiple installers working in concert.

Shown here is Jim Butter’s Advanced Roofing and Metal Works crew installing synthetic shake from Davinci Roofscapes.

“But hold up,” says Butters. “Anytime you call and say ‘hi, I have storm damage,’ most insurance companies will put a little note in your file, but we’ve learned that word ‘storm’ can mysteriously disappear after the insurance adjuster comes to investigate, and that can cause problems down the road for you claim.

“Now, if your favorite oak tree is hanging out in your living room after a tornado touched down nearby, that’s one thing—you definitely have storm damage. However, those drips around

your chimney in your den might not actually be storm damage, and you don’t want your insurance company noting you have damages due to ‘lack of maintenance,’ so this is when you’ll be thankful you have a qualified roofer in your contact list. By consulting a contractor first, you can get an accurate assessment with approximate cost to repair before you ever get your insurance company involved. You don’t want to call your insurance company for a $500.00 repair when your percentage deductible is $5,555.00, now do you?”

DIY or Why Not? When it comes to roof work on a house, can you do it yourself? It might be physically possible but it’s highly inadvisable. I know this, because I’ve attempted it. As the editor of this magazine, I take pride in having some actual working knowledge of the topics we cover, so a few years ago I took a stab at installing new architectural asphalt shingles on my house. I’ll never make that mistake again. From traversing the roof and dreading the heights to the grueling work of lugging the heavy materials all over the roof, I learned there’s a very good reason you see roofers work in multi-man crews. Furthermore, inexperience can lead to errors, and it’s critical to avoid any hidden errors in a

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ROOF DAMAGE CHECKLIST

That’s when the insurance assessment on your January “To-Do List” comes in handy.

Assuming you’ve done your homework and have called that roofing contractor, you are solidly equipped to make an informed decision on whether to consult your insurance company or pass. H Editor’s Note: Jim Butters is a professional roof contractor and host of the “Your House Inside and Out” radio show on Talk 99.5 FM in Birmingham, Al. Find out more at www.AdvancedRoofingandMetalWorks.com.

newly replaced roof. While working on my roof, I got so fed up with the workload that by the time I made it up to the ridge, I called a roofing contractor to finish up the second half on the higher side of the house.

Suffice it to say I’d learned what I set out to learn.

However, houses aren’t the only buildings that have roofs. Storage sheds, carports, workshops and other smaller single-level outbuildings are much more accessible and make for a safer work environment. That’s where HIR recommends inexperienced roofer installers flex their DIY muscles. Keep in mind, however, that no matter what type of roofing material you choose, if the material is not installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, then the manufacturer isn’t obligated to honor the product warranty in the event of a problem. So, study up and follow all installation instructions.

— Matt Weber

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In finer times, construction and remodeling trends were on full display at major conventions like the International Builders’ Show, but the global pandemic has brought trade

HIR HOME IMPROVEMENT

TRENDS

shows to a halt. Since you can’t travel to see the latest cutting-edge products and technologies, we bring the news to you with this early look at what’s available for 2021.

COMPOSITE DECKS MORE AFFORDABLE THAN EVER Deckorators Trailhead low-maintenance decking is an entry-level composite offering remarkable value and an industryleading 25-year structural, 25-year stain-and-fade, and 25-year removal-and-replacement limited warranty. With an expected average retail price in the low $2-per-lineal-foot range, Trailhead decking offers affordability, easy maintenance and a rugged appearance. Trailhead comes in Ridgeline (gray), Pathway (brown) and Canyon (red-brown) — three lightly streaked colors with natural, flat-grain embossing. The 7/8-inch-by-5.5-inch Trailhead boards are available in 12-,16- and 20-ft. solid and grooved-edge profiles. The boards are made with a shallow scalloped profile with four lobes. Competitive advantages include a highly compressed core, a durable, scratch-resistant polyethylene cap on three sides through the grooved edge, a 16-inch-on-center joist span, and compatibility with the Deckorators Pro Plug fastening system. Unique to Deckorators, the 25-year removal-and-replacement warranty covers the labor costs to remove and replace the product if it fails due to a manufacturing issue. Visit www.Deckorators.com/2021

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NEW NAME, NEW FLOORS In April 2020, Lumber Liquidators changed its name to LL Flooring, and the company continues to offer an enormous range of products across a wide array of categories. For the solid hardwood lover, the new Thames Tavern Oak Distressed Solid Hardwood Flooring (3/4 in. x 5 in.) by Bellawood comes factory-finished with LL’s most durable premium aluminum oxide-fortified coating and is backed by a 100year warranty. Want the look of aged maple in a waterproof vinyl flooring product? The Pyrenees Maple Rigid Vinyl Plank Flooring combines a clicktogether rigid core with a pre-attached underlayment pad for extra comfort and it’s backed by a lifetime warranty.

Do you love real wood but want a flooring with easy click-together installation? Then, check out the AquaSeal water-resistant Engineered Walnut Hardwood Flooring, which stands up to unexpected spills and splashes with its special core technology and is backed by a 50-year warranty. Find many new flooring options at www.llflooring.com

TOUCHLESS TOILETS In light of the pandemic, the new Kohler touchless toilets are sure to grow in demand. With an integrated touchless flush sensor located in the flush lever of the toilet, users can flush without spreading germs by simply placing a hand in front of the lever.

The toilet offers additional flush functionality via a trip lever for the manual flush option, and it features Konnect Bluetooth app integration to customize the sensitivity and colors of the sensor and sensor light. The touchless technology is available on Kohler’s most popular models–San Souci, Tresham, Reach and Corbelle–which span design styles and price points. With no need to touch or grip a lever, touchless technology in the bathroom is easy to use for people of all abilities.

Visit www.kohler.com

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FINGERPRINT ENTRY WITHOUT WI-FI Using the state-of-the-art fingerprint sensor technology, the BenjiLock By Hampton Fingerprint Door Lock brings security to your fingertips by integrating a biometric sensor that quickly scans a fingerprint with Hampton’s highly secure deadbolt design.

The Fingerprint Door Lock can be opened three ways: by using its fingerprint sensor, by entering owner-programmed numeric codes on a secure digital keypad, and by traditional metal key. It was specifically designed to operate without the need for Wi-Fi or Bluetooth, and provides homes, apartments and vacation rentals with a turnkey solution that is not dependent on network availability or external power for access. Named a CES 2020 Innovation Award Product, the BenjiLock By Hampton Fingerprint Door Lock stores 10 fingerprints and 25 user codes, with setup done directly on the deadbolt after installation (no software or Wi-Fi needed.

Visit www.buyhampton.com

TRACK LIGHTING THE EASY WAY The Pro Track 6 Light Bronze S-Wave LED Track Light Kit is a line-voltage fixture that installs in a ceiling junction box like a regular ceiling fixture. Clean, cool and contemporary, this “S" shaped bar track light kit provides an instant upgrade, comes in a crisp bronze finish and features six lights, each of which is fully adjustable. You can also change the hang height by adjusting the dual downrods. Measuring 54-1/4-in. wide by 24 in. deep, the S-Wave Track Light comes with six 6-watt GU10 base replaceable LED bulbs. Total light output is comparable to a 300-watt incandescent.

Visit www.lampsplus.com

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AIR-CLEANING CEILING FANS UV light has been a scientifically proven disinfectant for over 70 years. The Haiku ceiling fan from Big Ass Fans now offers a seamlessly integrated UV-C fixture to deliver healthier, more comfortable conditions with stylish decor. By incorporating CDC-endorsed UVGI (UV-C) technology, the Haiku fans are able to move pathogens through an upper-room disinfection zone, continuously and safely providing clean air where it’s needed most— to the people below. Fans with UV-C technology have an integrated light that glows to let you know that it’s disinfecting the air. The Haiku fans are available in a variety of finish options, controls, and diameter options of 52, 60, and 84 inches.

Visit www.bigassfans.com

MOBILE DUST COLLECTION Oneida Air Systems’ new Supercell Mobile Dust Collector is the first and only system on the market with high enough levels of static pressure and CFM to accommodate the widest range of woodworking tools, from handheld sanders, table saws and miter saws to jointers, planers and even CNC routers. It can handle essentially every tool in the shop with a dust port of 1 to 5 inches. Since its launch last July, the Supercell quickly became the best-selling motorized collector in Oneida Air’s history. The patent-pending Supercell is a cyclonic dust collector with a 97.8 static pressure rating—over 10 times higher suction power than standard dust collectors. Powered by three fan motors working in sync, the Supercell creates an intense vacuum that moves the dust-laden air at a relentless pace, overcoming resistance through up to 100 feet of 4-in. diameter hose and ductwork. The onboard HEPA-certified filter easily pulses clean without the need for disassembly, maximizing run time and performance while minimizing the operator’s dust exposure. The Supercell was previously only available as a wall-mounted unit, but now, at 28.5" wide, 30" deep, and 61" tall, with 10" diameter rear wheels and 3" diameter side locking front casters, the compact, portable design of the Supercell Mobile allows it to travel virtually anywhere. Made in the USA, the Supercell Mobile is sold with a steel, powder-coated mobility cart, 14-gal. mobile drop-down dust bin with fill level indicator, wireless remote, blast gate, bag retainer system, five liner bags, and 25 feet of 4" diameter vacuum pressure rated hose.

Visit www.oneida-air.com

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TINY TOOLS WITH MAJOR MUSCLE The new 18V sub-compact cordless tools from Metabo HPT deliver precise power in the smallest of spaces. The KC18DDX 2-piece Combo Kit includes the 18V Sub-Compact CordlessDrill (DS18DDX), 18V Sub-Compact Impact Driver (WH18DDX), two 1.5Ah lithium-ion batteries, charger and carrying bag. The 18V Sub-Compact Drill delivers best-in-class power with 485-in.-lbs of turning torque. At only 6.2-in. and weighing only 1.9 lbs, this sub-compact drill is 25 percent shorter and 20 percent lighter than its predecessor. The easy-to-use 1/2-in. keyless chuck ensures a strong grip and allows for quick bit replacements. Choose from 20 clutch settings, plus a drill mode setting. The variable speed trigger and a powerful brushless motor can achieve a maximum no-load speed of 0-1,700 RPM. The WH18DDX18V Sub-Compact Impact Driver is lightweight and delivers best-in-class speeds with 25 percent more impacts per minute. At only 5.3 inches long and 1.8 lbs., this sub-compact I-driver has a brushless motor that produces up to 1,240 in.-lbs. of torque, 3,200 max RPM and 4,000 max BPM—ideal for sinking screws and tightening or loosening bolts in hard-to-reach spaces. Visit www.metabohpt.com

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BLADES BUILT FOR EVERY JOB Diablo is the first manufacturer to offer a full line of carbide and bi-metal reciprocating blades designed specifically for different applications.

The company’s ninth and newest category of carbide blades is the Steel Demon 12 teethper-inch (TPI) thin metal conduit reciprocating blades. The new thin metal blades deliver controlled cuts and the ability to meet tight tolerances. Featuring a custom blended highperformance carbide formulation, this new blade extends the cutting life up to 50 times longer than standard bi-metal blades, making it the most efficient cutting solution in thin metal conduit and tubing applications. The blade’s optimized 12 TPI tooth geometry produces clean cuts that require virtually no rework. Plus, the one-inch oversized blade body provides stability and rigidity for straighter cuts with less vibration.

Visit www.CutsTheChatter.com

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SCUFF-RESISTANT FLAT PAINT Paints with a flat sheen are notorious for showing scuff marks more easily than paints with a gloss finish. Behr Ultra Scuff Defense Stain-Blocking Paint & Primer is formulated to set a new standard for flat paint durability. The new formula promises a rich flat finish that is truly durable enough for high-traffic areas. Don't settle or compromise between the flat look you desire and a higher level of durability you require. Ultra Scuff Defense is ideal for busy high-traffic areas, family rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms and ceilings, and you can buy it in-store exclusively at The Home Depot.

KITCHEN CABINET COOKWARE ORGANIZERS Are you sick of spelunking into your corner cabinet to retrieve a missing dish? Rev-A-Shelf's 53PSP Solid Bottom Blind Corner Optimizer maximizes space in blind corner cabinets while allowing the user full accessibility to the entire unit.

The unit is easy to assemble and installs for either left or right-handed applications. This blind corner optimizer fits most 45- and 48in. door/drawer or full-height blind corner cabinets and features solid bottom shelves, soft-close ball-bearing slides and heavy-duty materials making it functional, reliable and stylish. It mounts to the cabinet floor and is rated for 100 lb. capacity. Visit www.rev-a-shelf.com

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FIRST-EVER CERAMIC CLADDING Terraçade, the first-ever ceramic façade cladding system, is now available from Glen-Gery Corporation. The Terraçade system includes ceramic tiles in a broad range of colors and finishes, as well as a wide array of accessories and system components to make installation quick and easy. This ceramic system provides fire resistance, low-maintenance upkeep, and design versatility to meet diverse architectural and design styles. Prefinished and colorfast, the Terraçade tiles are engineered to not fade or change color to maintain vibrancy. The tiles are made from natural clay material for outstanding durability, maximum strength and impact resistance. The façade system can easily withstand all forms of extreme weather, from

intense UV and heat to heavy storms and freezing temperatures. Terraçade tiles naturally assist with airflow and energy reduction and have a completely maintenance-free finish.

Visit www.glengery.com

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COATING A COUNTERTOP WITH SPREADSTONE

By Matt Weber My five-year-old son Miller is our family’s master of disaster. True to form, Miller decided to sneak away during a family get-together to play with a scented candle burning in the bathroom. He first thought it would be a good idea to melt a plastic fork over the flame, then got scared when the fork lit up, so he covered it and the candle with a nearby towel, which in turn caught on fire.

We quickly smelled the smoke and prevented a tragedy. The bathroom countertop, however, suffered an ugly third-degree burn that discolored it badly.

Hopefully, Miller learned a lesson.

COUNTERTOP REPAIR OPTIONS You can completely replace a countertop, but that can get expensive, depending on your material of choice and whether you DIY or hire an installer. Another option is to cover the surface in tile, a material that offers a wide range of looks and patterns.

For the project shown, tile was not the best choice because of the contours involved with the integrated sink of this single-piece vanity top.

Recoating the top sounds like a good idea, but you can’t simply paint a countertop, or the regular wear and tear of usage will damage the paint in short order.

You’ll find a few different countertop coating kits on the market, and I’ve used some of them with varying results. I tried a kit based on a faux painting technique meant to mimic the look of granite, but the end result was not at all convincing.

I’ve also tried the Rustoleum Countertop Transformation Kit and found greater success with its durable coating on flat surfaces (less so on 90-degree corners).

The Rustoleum kit, however, relies on plastic chips to approximate a stone finish, and while the end result was an improvement, it did not really look like natural stone.

I then learned of a countertop product called Spreadstone that incorporated genuine stone into the coating material. Maybe real stone had been the missing ingredient to get the look I wanted. I contacted the manufacturer Daich Coatings with a few questions— most importantly: Would the Spreadstone coating erode over time from running water if I used it to coat the sink?

The manufacturer reps assured me the coating would hold up, so I took them at their word.

Here’s how I applied the Spreadstone product to give an old countertop a new look.

SURFACE PREP First, patch any deep cracks or holes in the countertop surface with drywall spackle.

Any wood or concrete countertop surface needs to be sanded free of any pre-existing coatings. For laminate countertops, the surface should be thoroughly scuffed with the 80-grit sandpaper included in the kit, which gives the surface “tooth” for a better adhesive bond with the Spreadstone product.

To give the new countertop coating a seamless appearance, I recommend removing the faucet and sink drain to prep and coat the surface beneath.

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Once sanded, thoroughly clean the surface of sanding dust using soap and water, then rinse and allow it to dry completely.

[STEP 1]

[STEP 2]

[STEP 3]

[STEP 4]

[STEP 5]

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BASE COAT The Spreadstone Mineral Select Kit includes the brush, paint tray, roller and roller-covers required for the job.

As with any painting project, use masking tape and plastic or drop cloths to protect any surrounding areas during application of the new finish.

The first component is the base coat, which should be mixed well prior to use. Use the brush to apply it to corners, edges and tight areas. (Wash the brush with soap and water after each use so you can use it on later phases of the project.)

Use one of the kit’s 4-inch rollers to apply a thin, uniform base coat to all flat areas of the countertop. Wash the roller in preparation for a second coat to be applied after the first has dried to the touch (approximately 30 minutes later).

Apply the second coat to eliminate any “see through” of the underlying countertop surface, then allow the base coat to dry for a couple of hours.

STONE COAT Before applying the second component, it’s important to use a paint stick to thoroughly mix the stone material evenly into the product because its weight makes it settle at the bottom of the can.

Use the brush from the kit to dab (rather than brush) the Stone Coating along edges, corners and tight areas of the countertop. For the large, flat surface, first saturate one of the 4-in. rollers with the Stone Coating in the paint t ray, then apply it in a continual “X pattern” over the entire surface.

Roll the edges of the countertop downward.

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COATING A COUNTERTOP WITH SPREADSTONE To distribute the texture evenly throughout the surface, push the stone material around using varying roller pressure until you get the look you want. Once you’re satisfied, roll the wet material a few times with even pressure to flatten any buildup.

Wash the roller with soap and water and allow the stone coat to dry for two hours.

Next, apply a second coat just like the first. Spot-apply the coating to even out thin areas. Roll the entire surface evenly, then allow it to dry for 24 hours.

Once the stone coating is completely dry, sand it with the 120grit sandpaper included with the kit and clean away all sanding dust with a damp cloth.

CLEAR COAT The last component of the countertop finishing kit is the clear coat, which adds a semigloss finish that resists staining.

First, stir the clear coat gently to avoid producing air bubbles.

(Do NOT shake the can.)

Use the small brush to apply the clear coat to edges, corners, etc., being careful not to let the coating pool on the surface. Coat the rest of the surface using a 4-inch roller. Roll over the wet surface a few times, but don’t overwork the coating as it dries, which would risk roughening the finish.

Allow the clear coat to dry for four hours, then apply a second coat in the same manner and let it cure for 24 hours before use.

After curing, cut away all painter’s tape with a sharp utility knife and apply clear caulking where the countertop edges meet a wall.

[STEP 6]

[STEP 7]

[STEP 8]

[STEP 9]

[STEP 10]

[STEP 11]

FINAL THOUGHTS The old countertop now has a new texture that features genuine stone aggregate, which lends it a

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COATING A COUNTERTOP WITH SPREADSTONE

[STEP 12]

[STEP 13]

[STEP 14]

[STEP 15]

[FINAL]

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much more naturalistic appearance than the other coating products I’ve used. I would compare the look to a concrete counter-top with a fine stone component in the mix—and a huge improvement over the fire-damaged laminate.

As far as durability, the Spreadstone coating has so far performed with no signs of wear. Granted, it’s been only a few months since application, so I can’t say with certainty how long it will last, but so far, I have a good feeling about its longterm prospects.

As far as skill level required, this is an easy DIY project that anyone can do if they follow the instructions. The actual working time is minimal, but you should take note of the elapsed cure time for the various phases of the project. You’ll need to block out about three days in which the sink will be out of service while the different coatings dry.

On this project, I used the Spreadstone Mineral Select Kit in “Natural White,” but the coating is available in eleven different colors. Find out more about the Spreadstone Countertop Finishing Kits at www.daichcoatings.com.

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