HOME IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS SUMMER ISSUE 2020

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HOME IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIR

PRO TIPS FOR DIY LAWN CARE PAGE 22

EXPECTED TO ‘GO’ ON OCTOBER 21-23, SAY SHOW ORGANIZERS

U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95

PAGE 16

ISSUE: 04 HIRpub.com

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ALSO INSIDE BOARD AND BATTEN TRIM: A SIMPLE TAKE ON WAINSCOTING MANAGING MOISTURE IN AN INDOOR POOL ROOM MAKING SENSE OF CAULKS AND SEALANTS STEP-BY-STEP: CUT AN INTERIOR DOOR FOR FLOOR CLEARANCE

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Last-Deck

THE LAST DECK YOU WILL EVER NEED

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INSIDE: 06 09 18 30

COVER FEATURE 22

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6 TIPS FOR DIY LAWN CARE

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IT'S TIME FOR SOME FUN IN THE SUN!

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SKILL LEVEL

EASY

04

START SMART • MASTER YOUR GRASS • ASK MATT • NEWSWIRE SKILL SET CAULKS AND SEALANTS BOARD AND BATTEN FOR DIY’ERS A SIMPLE TAKE ON WAINSCOTING A POOL FOR ANY SEASON MANAGING MOISTURE IN AN INDOOR POOL ROOM JOB ESSENTIALS • PERDURA BRUSHES DECK BOSS • MILWAUKEE TOOL’S SHOCKWAVE RED HELIX TITANIUM DRILL BITS STEP-BY-STEP HANDBOOK CUT AN INTERIOR DOOR FOR FLOOR CLEARANCE

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KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL:

SKILL LEVEL

MODERATE

LETTER FROM MATT WEBER

LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO

Home Improvement and Repair | Issue: 04

34 SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

HARD

PRO

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER The magazine’s “editor’s letter” is where I’m expected to share my thoughts about current issues of concern from our readers. Under the circumstances, that’s a lofty expectation. Where should I begin?

The unending global pandemic?

Threat of economic calamity?

Riots and looting across the country? A war on police? Or something called “murder hornets”?

Nah. That’s way over my head.

I’m a hammer-and-nails guy who is just as worried about everything as everyone else. And since these days, it seems like the loudest voices have the worst ideas, I’m going to stay quiet. I’ll take the easy way out--just keep my head down, and keep doing what I always do. In a time when angry people are tearing things down and the world seems to be falling apart, I’m going to keep building

to improve the things around me that I can improve. That kind of gesture seems more important than ever. I hope you choose to do the same.

Stay safe out there, Matt Weber

IN A TIME WHEN ANGRY PEOPLE ARE TEARING THINGS DOWN AND THE WORLD SEEMS TO BE FALLING APART, I’M GOING TO KEEP BUILDING TO IMPROVE THE THINGS AROUND ME THAT I CAN IMPROVE.

PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com

ADVISORY BOARD JEFF WINKLE CHIP LOVELADY REX LYSINGER KATHY ZIPRIK MARK CLEMENT KIM DREW ROB ROBILLARD LARRY CLEMENT

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS KIM KATWIJK CARTER SWIFT CHRISTOPHER WEST

AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com

COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER

PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO

Home Improvement & Repair is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.

PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC

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STARTSMART MASTER YOUR GRASS | NEWSWIRE | ASK MATT

GEAR UP FOR THE GREEN SEASON WITH THESE HOT PRODUCTS FOR LAWN CARE

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HHT STRING TRIMMER MFG: Honda WEB: Lowes.com INFO: The HHT35SLTAT Honda string trimmer is ideal for homeowners who tackle heavy-duty trimming and brush removal. This model comes standard with a loop handle, semiauto line for easy feeding, and a shoulder harness for balance and support. The HIR staff got an early look at this unit, and it has the muscle you need when an electric trimmer just won't cut it—literally. The mini 4-stroke Honda GX35 engine gives a quick, easy start and runs on straight gas so there's no need to mix gas and oil. The engine is engineered to save so much gas that it costs 50-percent less to operate than a two-stroke trimmer. The vibration-dampening design makes it comfortable to use, and the straight flex shaft comes with a limited lifetime warranty.

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STARTSMART MASTER YOUR GRASS

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FIND IT AT LOWE'S

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2 HRN SELF-PROPELLED LAWN MOWER MFG: Honda WEB: Lowes.com INFO: This thing has some real pep! It's powered by the all-new Honda GCV170 engine that delivers 9 percent more power and 18 percent more torque than the Honda HRR model it replaces. The comfortable (and easily adjustable) thumb-lever drive accelerator is instantly responsive for quick, variable boosts of speed and power to the rear wheels when dealing with rugged terrain or climbing uphill.

Four new Honda HRN216 models offer different options.

The HRN216VKA we tested includes a 3-in-1 Clip Director lever on the side of the engine, which controls the entry shutter between the mower deck and the grass bag, allowing operators to mulch all the clippings, bag all the clippings, or discharge from the rear.

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3 SMARTCONTROL FUEL CONTAINER MFG: Scepter WEB: www.scepter.com INFO: The innovative spout design of a Scepter SmartControl container makes it easy to fuel equipment. The spout provides a clean, fast, hassle-free pour, and helps save gas for where it’s needed by eliminating messy spills. The user-controlled flow valve and flame-mitigation device make it safe and effortless to direct the amount of fuel being dispensed. Using a single motion, simply press the lever up with the palm of your hand to unlock the child safety feature, and then squeeze the large button. This first squeeze is done when upright to vent the container. Then, place the nozzle over the tank and squeeze again to pour just the right amount of fuel.

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> THE SINGLE FRONT WHEEL TURNS 360 DEGREES FOR BETTER HANDLING AND ALSO LOCKS IN PLACE FOR STRAIGHT CUTS.

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4 ZERO-TURN RADIUS SELF-PROPELLED LAWN MOWER MFG: Mowox WEB: Amazon.com INFO: For yards with heavy landscaping, there's the Mowox Zero-Turn Radius Self-Propelled Lawn Mower powered by Briggs & Stratton. The single front wheel turns 360 degrees for better handling and also locks in place for straight cuts. A single-lever, six-stage lever allows you to easily adjust the deck height for quick customization of your mowing height.

The mower also features InStart Technology, which uses a rechargeable lithium-ion battery for push-button electric starting combined with the power of a gas-driven engine.

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT amazon.com

BUY IT

<DIGITAL READERS CLICK HERE!

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STARTSMART MASTER YOUR GRASS

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5 BLACK ALUMINUM GARDEN HOSE MFG: Zero-G WEB: AceHardware.com INFO: The Zero-G hose is 50 percent lighter in weight than standard garden hoses, which provides for easy coiling, maneuverability and compact storage. It works with all hose attachments like nozzles, sprayers and sprinklers. The Zero-G is kink-resistant, easy to maneuver, drinking water-safe and lead free.

It's also jobsite tough equal to commercial-grade hoses, so it's abrasion-, leak- and puncture-resistant with a burst rating of 600+ PSI. The Zero-G does not expand or retract, producing an uninterrupted and high water-flow rate equal to a conventional 5/8 in. hose.

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6 DELUXE EDGEGUARD PUSH SPREADER MFG: Scotts WEB: AceHardware.com INFO: Spread lawn products efficiently with the Scotts Turf Builder EdgeGuard DLX broadcast spreader. The EdgeGuard DLX spreader comes calibrated and ready to use, with no assembly required. With Scotts' exclusive technology, you can control the panel's precision rate setting to deliver more accurate coverage on up to 15,000 square feet. Adjust the rate control to the correct setting listed on the back of each Scotts product.

When the EdgeGuard is engaged, it blocks off the right side of the spread pattern to prevent spreading onto non-lawn areas. Spread width is 5 feet.

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> FIND IT AT ACE HARDWARE

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7 21 IN. 56V SELF-PROPELLED LAWN MOWER MFG: EGO WEB: AceHardware.com INFO: Great strides in technology have made cordless lawn equipment more powerful and efficient than ever. The new EGO self-propelled mower harnesses an advanced 56-volt, 7.5Ah ARC lithium battery to deliver more than 60 minutes of cutting time on a single charge. The Select Cut multi-blade cutting system is equipped with two interchangeable lower blades. The Premium Mulching Blade gives you the cut quality and run time you expect from a high-end mower. The heavy-duty Premium Bagging Blade turns grass into fine fragments ideal for both bagging and mulching. Both blades are included in the set and can be swapped out depending on the cut desired. The EGO Upper Blade is used in combination with the chosen lower blade to slice the grass into fine fragments and greatly enhances cutting performance. EGO’s Touch Drive Technology puts complete control of the self-propelled system in the palm of your hands.

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STARTSMART MASTER YOUR GRASS 8 CHAINSAW TOOTH TRIMMER/BRUSH CUTTER BLADE MFG: LIYYOO WEB: Amazon.com INFO: The 9-in. LIYOO Carbide Tipped Grass/Brush Blade has 20 teeth and is designed to operate at maximum 10,000 RPM for gas-powered trimmers and brushcutters with engines 30cc and above.

The chainsaw blade is designed for cutting thick grasses, tall grasses, woody grasses, nettles, thorns, shrubs and saplings. The trimmer head is made of heavy-duty manganese steel, and the chainsaw teeth riveted onto the blade can be sharpened with a 3/16-in. chainsaw file. Because of tendency for kickback, the HIR staff recommends using this blade in conjunction with a trimmer/brush cutter equipped with a U-shaped handlebar.

H

NEWSWIRE HOME IMPROVEMENT INDUSTRY ADAPTS TO NEW ERA

How are companies in the home-improvement and remodeling industry coping in the era of COVID-19 social distancing? Although many have been dependent on in-home or in-store consultations, many are now reinventing themselves by developing web-based, virtual consultation platforms.

Armstrong Flooring offers an online Design-a-Room tool plus free flooring samples. Upload a photo of your own

room and apply different flooring options using quick, convenient autofill functionality. Compare the look of floors by sliding back and forth between side-by-side images and even change wall colors in the room. Once you've narrowed your selection, Armstrong will ship free flooring samples directly to your home. Visit www.armstrongflooring.com.

Budget Blinds and Tailored Living, the largest window covering and whole-home organization franchises in North America, have found success with 100-percent virtual consultations. These virtual offerings allow local designers to meet with homeowners, take measurements, present design options and develop customized products without actually visiting the home. Products range from window blinds, shutters and wall coverings to closet storage and cabinetry. Visit www.budgetblinds.com.

Mercury Insurance offers a claims app to minimize health risks for homeowners and claims representatives. If a house needs repairs due to a covered homeowner's insurance loss, the damage requires evaluation to determine repair costs. Mercury offers homeowners who

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Home Improvement and Repair | Issue: 04

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QUESTION: How does a deep wood epoxy stand up to sunlight and outdoor environments?

ANSWER: To answer this question, HIR turned to our friends at DeckWise, manufacturer of WiseBond Deep Pour Epoxy, which is specifically formulated to pour two inches of epoxy depth in a single pour. “Our epoxy has a UV inhibitor added to the formula,” says Roderick Kabel, marketing director for DeckWise.

“The key word is ‘inhibitor’ which

HIRpub.blog | HIRpub.digital

QUESTION: I’d like to install a tile backplash in the kitchen but have electrical outlets in the way. Do I cut the tile to fit around the outlet cover?

ANSWER: Cutting around the outlet cover will leave the cut tiles exposed and the outlet recessed inside the backsplash, which is not usually considered a good look. A better option is to purchase Electrical Box Extenders that will bring the face of the electrical boxes flush with the

new surface. The extenders are rectangular plastic rings sold in 1/4- or 1/2-in. thickness, which screw on top of the original box.

To install, first shut off power to the outlets, then remove the outlet covers. Remove the top and bottom outlet screws and pull the outlet from the wall. Slide the box extender over the outlet so the wires extend out the back. Insert the long screws included with the extender through the outlet and use them to fasten both the outlet and the extender over the original box. Once the backsplash is installed, the outlet cover should conceal the rough edges of the tile.

<

ASK MATT

helps to protect. Not all brands of epoxy use an inhibitor. It does not stop UV rays but postpones the yellowing. We always suggest taking care of your epoxy project and keep it out of the direct sun. If you have a table that does have direct sun, either in the house or outside, keep it covered when not using it.”

H Got a question for Matt? Visit Matt’s blog at HIRpub.blog.

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STARTSMART NEWSWIRE need to file a claim a close-to-contactless solution by allowing them to use real-time video to capture and assess property damage to the claims process. Visit www.mercuryinsurance.com.

Permits.com, a platform for property owners and contractors to apply for construction-related permits nationwide, launched GovAccess to expedite permit requests and inspections online. Due to the pandemic, building departments have closed or have restrictions that limit access and lead to delays. Contractors in 17,000 cities and towns now have a free platform to expedite permit requests and inspections online. Visit https://govaccess.permits.com.

GIE+EXPO IS EXPECTED TO ‘GO’ SAY SHOW ORGANIZERS

GIE+EXPO, the international landscape, outdoor living and equipment exposition, will be held as planned this year on October 21-23 at the Kentucky Exposition Center (KEC) in Louisville, say show organizers who also promise to design and develop a show and educational programming with all

necessary safety protocols in place in response to the COVID-19 pandemic.

“Everyone is asking if GIE+EXPO is happening. What I can say is the show is expected go on. We’re planning for it,” says Kris Kiser, President of the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI), an international trade association representing manufacturers and suppliers of power equipment, small engines and battery power, utility and personal transport vehicles, and managing partner of the GIE+EXPO. Visit www.gie-expo.com.

ISN'T IT IRONIC?

According to KUSA-TV of Denver, Colorado, in April, a construction crew hit an underground fiber line, which caused an outage of Colorado's "Call Before You Dig" hotline.

Utilities can be as shallow as 18 inches or less below the ground. Because of this risk, it’s important for both homeowners and contractors to call 811 (the national “Call Before You Dig” number) before putting a shovel in the ground. This is a FREE service. The 811 number is

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Home Improvement and Repair | Issue: 04

designated by the FCC “to protect American homeowners and professional excavators from the injuries, expenses and penalties” caused by digging-related accidents—the consequences of which may include repair costs, expensive and inconvenient service outages, or even hospital bills.

How far in advance should you call?

State laws vary from 48 to 72 hours, most excluding weekends and legal holidays.

Call 811 directly, and the customer service representative will be able to provide specific information.

H

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SKILL SET

By Matt Weber

Anyone who works on home remodeling projects will spend a lot of time with a caulk gun. Caulks are used to seal joints for a decorative finish, to seal joints to prevent water and air intrusion, or for both purposes. Whether you’re sealing joints in crown molding or weather-proofing window exteriors, choosing the right caulk/sealant product should be your first move.

CHOICES, CHOICES Silicone sealants have long been the staple for exterior projects where a waterproof seal is necessary. This stuff is used around doors, windows, and any number of areas around the house to prevent air and water intrusion.

Silicone-based sealants also work well for use in the kitchen and bath. These products can be purchased with antimicrobial additives to fight mold and mildew, and can be easily removed and replaced when the bead gets grimy.

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However, standard silicone cannot be painted and is incredibly messy and sticky to use. Newer formulations of silicone-based sealants can be painted—but only if indicated on the packaging—so pay close attention when buying.

Acrylic caulk represents the other end of the spectrum. Unlike silicone, acrylic is only

WITH SUCH A MULTITUDE OF FORMULATIONS, PRODUCT SELECTION CAN BE CONFUSING.

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CAULKS AND SEALANTS appropriate for interior projects and is not waterproof, nor is it very flexible and may crack over time. This is the stuff that has been used for years to fill gaps and cracks in molding and trim to give it a finished, cohesive appearance. Acrylic caulk is much easier to tool and clean up than silicone, and can easily be painted. Standard acrylic caulk is a strictly cosmetic product, however, and not intended to serve as a sealant (but acrylic is also the least expensive option).

These days, many hybrid caulk/sealants stock the shelves of the hardware store.

These products come in formulations containing some of the attributes of both silicone and acrylic, meaning they can be cleaned or tooled more easily than standard silicone, remain more flexible than acrylic, can be painted after application, and still retain a waterproof seal.

>

s Cut the tip of a caulk tube at a straight 90-degree angle and keep the hole small. You can always re-cut to make the hole bigger, but you don’t want to sacrifice control of the bead. Many caulk/sealants also have an interior seal inside the nozzle that should be punctured several times with a stiff wire or thin rod.

New DuraMaster Elastomeric Caulk/Sealant For the past several months, the HIR staff has been quietly testing a new elastomeric caulk/sealant called DuraMaster from Titebond. The new formula offers 100-percent joint-movement capability, so it will flex and stretch and won’t crack or detach from the surrounding building materials.

Movement occurs with expansion and contraction of building materials due to temperature changes, settling, wind and seismic events, and this movement is why brittle caulks can crack or fail over time. Typical elastomeric sealants can handle movement of 25 percent of the original joint size and are rated Class 25 (the minimum rating for handling a moderate amount of movement). DuraMaster, however, has earned the highest ASTM C-920 rating for sealant performance, Class 100/50, which means it can handle movement of 100 percent expansion and 50 percent contraction.

The Class 100 rating is a testament to the sealant’s durability, because according to Titebond, the new formula tested four times more durable than other water-based sealants. Plus, it will span even large gaps, up to two inches wide.

The DuraMaster sealant can be used for interiors or exteriors. Its water-based formulation is good news for anyone who can’t stand dealing with the sticky, goopy, difficult-to-tool, and nearly impossible-toclean mess of silicone-based products. The new formula is simple to tool and cleans up easily with water (until the sealant dries).

And unlike standard silicone, DuraMaster is a paintable caulk and is sold in 13 colors. As far as sealants go, our staff gives DuraMaster a big thumbs up, and now that it’s widely available, you can try it yourself. Learn more at www.titebond.com.

WATCH AND LEARN (DIGITAL READERS CLICK THE PLAY BUTTON)

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SKILL SET

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s

Before applying any caulk or sealant, clean the surface of the work area thoroughly to prevent dirt and debris from disrupting application of the bead. When laying the bead, keep the gun positioned at a 90-degree angle to the wall to strike a balance between pushing and pulling for consistent application. This position also provides easy visibility on both sides of the nozzle.

How to Seal Big Joints To seal a joint larger than 1/4-in. wide, use a foam backer rod as a filler before applying the caulk. Simply press the flexible backer rod (a.k.a. filler rope) firmly into the joint or crack and apply caulk on top of it. The inexpensive backer rod provides a cheaper way to fill the empty space than using caulk alone. Plus, when caulk is tooled over a backer rod, it forms an “hourglass” shape with large surface areas of adhesion at the sides of the joint. The hourglass shape of the caulk bead withstands joint movement better than any other configuration.

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Home Improvement and Repair | Issue: 04

Rest the nozzle tip evenly on both sides of the joint. Move the caulk gun at a steady rate. Keep the bead width as steady as possible and leave no gaps. If you cross any vertical joints, take the time to caulk a few inches up or down the joints, which will make it easier to connect the caulk beads later.

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CAULKS AND SEALANTS

Pro-grade polyurethane-based sealants present another option for exterior siding, windows and doors, because they stay flexible and don’t shrink, have better adhesion than silicone—plus, they’re paintable.

Water-based and solvent-based caulk/sealants further complicate the wide selection, offering similar hybrid properties, and many serve double-duty as adhesives.

With such a multitude of formulations, product selection can be confusing.

The easiest way to make sense of all the options is to pay close attention to the indications on the packaging. Make sure the caulk/sealant tube is clearly marked for the task at hand and intended for interior or exterior application. Whether the product is elastomeric, flexible, waterproof, paintable, cleans up with water, or contains a mildewcide additive, all features should be listed prominently on the label. H

Complete the task by tooling the bead. Hardware stores sell caulking tools of various profiles and sizes to strike off excess caulk and give shape to the bead. You can also make your own tools to shape concave beads by using wood dowels of various sizes, or simply slap on a rubber glove and use your finger. Plastic grocery bags make fine receptacles for the excess caulk.

DAP Textured Concrete Sealant Concrete cracks are common and unsightly, but the new Premium Textured Concrete from DAP is a uniquely formulated latex sealant with a textured finish that simulates concrete. It is formulated to seamlessly blend repairs with the surrounding concrete for more accurate color matching. DAP Premium Textured Concrete is

HIRpub.blog | HIRpub.digital

a textured latex sealant that moves and flexes with heavy-trafficked concrete surfaces while providing a long-lasting seal resistant to cracking. Its strong adhesion can be applied to concrete, mortar, brick, metal, stone, stucco, grout and textured walls.

Learn more at www.dap.com.

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IT'S TIME FOR SOME FUN IN THE SUN!

Home Improvement and Repair | Issue: 04

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TIPS FOR DIY LAWN CARE Compiled by Christopher West

The new HRN216VKA self-propelled mower from Honda Power Equipment

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Spring is at hand. Get out of the house and get some sunshine. It's good for the body and soul. While you're at it, get some yard work accomplished. It's good for your lawn, and the exercise is great for your health.

Here are six lawn-care tips from the HIR staff, for new grass and old.

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TIPS FOR DIY LAWN CARE

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Seeds—A Good Place to Start

Quantity and coverage are equally important when seeding a lawn. Use plenty of seed and spread it evenly. Over-seeding an existing lawn can flesh out thin spots.

To replenish an existing lawn, spreading 3 or 4 lbs. of seed per 1,000 square feet should suffice. A brand new lawn requires as much as 6 to 8 lbs. per 1,000 sq. feet.

Prior to spreading the seed, rake away loose thatch and debris. Use a sharp garden tool (rake, hoe, etc.) to till the soil of bare spots and thin areas 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep.

Spread the seed in a crisscross pattern, using a spreading device for even coverage.

Even an inexpensive handheld seed spreader will get better results than spreading by hand.

After spreading the seed, use a rake to work it below the surface of the soil. Then, spread fertilizer. Some products are available as a mixture of seed and fertilizer.

Otherwise, follow the planting with a good “starter” fertilizer that has a high middle number (phosphorous), e.g., 20-27-5, which is the most common retail starter fertilizer.

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Watering New Seeds

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For new grass seeds, during the germination period water twice a day, 10 minutes per watered area. To keep the top inch of soil moist, it’s best to water lightly often rather than deeply once a day. Seeds germinate in 2 to 3 weeks, depending on the type.

Once the seeds have germinated, keep a consistent watering schedule, but account for weather conditions, because over-watering can cause grass disease. The ideal time to water your grass is between 4 a.m. and 6 a.m. If possible, avoid watering new lawns in the evening.

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Sodding a Lawn

To establish a new lawn quickly on bare ground, sod is the way to go. Pro landscapers use specialized equipment to sod a lawn, such as a tractor with a rear-mounted sod-laying attachment which is fitted with a large spool of sod (backed with mesh) that unrolls over the ground in strips.

The DIY method is to have pallets of sod delivered to the home and recruit some helpers to lay the sod on bare, tilled soil in tightly spaced rows, each square butted end to end without overlapping. Hatchets and garden tools can be used to cut the sod squares to fit around obstacles and follow the property lines. Any gaps can be filled with topsoil and seed.

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TIPS FOR DIY LAWN CARE

NEW SOD MUST BE KEPT DAMP SO THE GRASS CAN TAKE ROOT.

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Watering New Sod

Proper watering is critical to establishing new sod. Immediately after installing, water the lawn thoroughly so the sod is spongy when stepped on. New sod must be kept damp so the grass can take root. The sod should be kept wet 4 to 6 inches deep and watered 3 to 5 times a day during the first two weeks (depending on season). Lift a corner of the sod to determine the depth of moisture. Avoid foot traffic while the lawn establishes. The new sod should never dry out, even during hot weather. At the end of the second week, allow the lawn to dry enough so you can mow, then transition from frequent daily watering to fewer cycles per day—but don’t allow the sod to dry out.

During week 4, water once or twice every other day. By week 5, the new lawn should be able to go 2-3 days between watering.

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5 Mowing Height

When mowing a lawn, homeowners often set their mower blades too low and “scalp” the lawn, which can lead to thin and dying grass and shallow root systems. Each grass type has a height range that is ideal for its health, looks and resilience. The depth of the root system directly correlates to the height it should be mowed. The higher you cut the grass, the deeper the roots will grow. The deeper the roots, the more water the grass can absorb, which means you don’t need to water the lawn as often.

Two types of grasses are most common for lawns. Cool Season grasses include Fescue, Bluegrass, and Ryegrass, and are most common in the Southeast.

These grasses like to be mowed at a range of 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches high. Fescue looks best at least 3 inches high. Bluegrass is most tolerant to lower mowing, but should be left at least 2-1/2 inches.

The second type is Warm Season grasses, such as Bermuda, Zoysia, and Centipede.

These grasses tolerate as low a cutting as most homeowner’s mowers will cut. For warm season grasses, a home lawn looks good 1 inch high, if the yard has a smooth grade.

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6 TIPS FOR DIY LAWN CARE

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Weed Control

Pre-emergent products control weeds before they germinate. Post-emergent products kill existing weeds. For proper weed control, use the right product at the right time (for the right weed).

After weeds have already emerged on your lawn, you’ll need a post-emergent herbicide, which is categorized as selective or non-selective. For example, Roundup is non-selective, meaning it tries to kill most all plants. Be careful using such products, because non-selective herbicides often kill all vegetation, destroy the nutrients in the soil, and prevent any vegetation from surviving—including any grass the chemical contacts.

Selective herbicides kill specific types of plants, such as broadleaf weeds. Certain selective herbicides can control broadleaf weeds in warm-season turf grass, control of grassy weeds in Zoysia turf, etc. Read the product packaging carefully to choose the right post-emergent herbicide for your specific needs.

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> Fight Mosquitos Outdoors The downside of the green season is the return of mosquitoes. The key to preventing mosquito-borne diseases is controlling mosquito breeding grounds.

Mosquito Dunks are the top-selling biological mosquito control because they kill mosquitoes before they’re old enough to bite. The active ingredient is BTI, a natural bacterium that kills mosquito larvae but is harmless to people, pets, fish, plants and wildlife. When a donut-shaped Mosquito Dunk is placed in standing water, the BTI will kill mosquito larvae for up to 30 days. Just float biodegradable Mosquito Dunks in ponds, birdbaths, rain barrels, fountains, and any standing water. In places where small amounts of water collect, such as potted plant saucers and tree holes, use a granular form of BTI called Mosquito Bits, which can kill mosquito larvae in swampy areas where water cannot be drained.

Mosquito Bits are also approved for fungus gnat control in potted plants. Find them at Amazon.

BUY IT

(DIGITAL READERS CAN CLICK THIS BUTTON TO BUY RIGHT NOW)

When to Aerate a Lawn As spring rolls in, a tried-and-true method to jump-start a healthy lawn is to aerate and over-seed the yard.

Aeration fights thatch and soil compaction. Over time, built-up thatch and tightly packed soil can choke off nutrients from the grass. More than 3/4 inch of accumulated thatch can lead to lawn disease, insect infestation and ultimately drought. Soil compaction, due to traffic, rain and erosion, can do the same. An aerator is a machine that minimizes compaction by thinning the tightly packed soil while also removing built-up thatch.

In lawn maintenance, aerating literally means “to supply with air," allowing air, water, and nutrients to enter the soil and nourish the lawn.

Aeration should be done after the lawn has been mowed down to about 2 inches high. The most effective type of aerator is a “core” aerator, which uses hollow tines to remove “cores” or plugs of soil, leaving them laying on the lawn’s surface to return nutrients to the grass as they dissolve.

Many homeowner-type aerators use spikes that simply poke holes in the soil, but these types aren’t quite as efficient. Available at rental outlets, aerators are available as walk-behind or ride-on gas models, while other versions can be towed as an attachment behind a lawn tractor.

Keep in mind that core aeration should only be done to correct problems of soil compaction and thatch buildup. It’s a great way to revive an unkempt lawn early in the season, prior to fertilizing, but shouldn’t be a part of routine maintenance.

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A SIMPLE TAKE ON WAINSCOTING

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2 SKILL LEVEL

MODERATE

BOARD AND BATTEN FOR DIY’ERS

By Matt Weber

This board-and-batten trim installation is an easy way to achieve the appearance of frame-and-andpanel wainscoting. With this method, there are no true panels, only frames with the wallboard within painted to match the trim and give it a faux-panel look. This is a DIY-friendly project that adds mass and character to an otherwise unremarkable space.

How It’s Done

The project shown basically consists of 1x6 MDF trim boards used as horizontal rails and 1x4 MDF boards as vertical stiles. The size of those boards can vary depending on the size and layout of the area you plan to decorate. For this project, I purchased all the materials pre-primed and ready to paint.

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A SIMPLE TAKE ON WAINSCOTING

I used some old stair-rail spindles as temporary “stiles” to help me visualize the frame pattern and determine layout of the project.

To begin planning your design, measure the width of the wall horizontally, then tentatively decide on the number of frames. There is no unbreakable rule about the frame size, but try for uniform spacing between the stiles. The wainscoting and its components should be of

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Home Improvement and Repair | Issue: 04

proportional size to the room, and you can adjust the layout to accommodate real-world situations.

For example, on the project shown, the top rail height was limited by light switches that I wanted to avoid. I also determined the width and number of the frame sections based on the location of an electrical wall outlet, which I wanted the stiles to miss. You can plot your design on graph paper, or lean some boards along the wall as temporary “stiles" so you can move them around as you decide on final placement. To dodge the wall outlet, I decided to locate the stiles on 23-inch centers.

Remove the baseboard and all obstacles from the wall and repair any damage to the surface. If the wall is textured, you should skim-coat it with drywall mud, sand it smooth, and apply primer to ensure a convincing woodpanel appearance.

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BOARD AND BATTEN FOR DIY’ERS

The rails and stiles were installed with brad nails and construction glue.

Install the bottom rail level.

To begin installation, mark the stud locations along the wall. Cut the bottom rail to fit the space and fasten it along the bottom of the wall. The rail should be installed level even if the floor is not. Nail into the studs.

On this job, I installed all the rails and stiles with a combination of 2-in. brad nails and construction adhesive.

Next, mark the midpoint of each stile location on top of the rail. An alternative method is to use a spacer board between stiles during installation.

Knowing the top rail’s maximum height (48 in.) and the width of the rails (6 in.), I determined the stiles needed to be 36 inches long. It is critical that all stiles on a wall be cut to the exact same length. I set a stop on my miter-saw bench to make sure the repetitive cuts would have identical measurements.

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>

A SIMPLE TAKE ON WAINSCOTING We painted the wall area prior to installation and marked all the studs with painter’s tape.

Nail and glue the stiles into place, taking care to install them square and plumb. I used two brad nails at the top, middle and bottom.

Next comes installation of the top rail, which should rest evenly along the top of the stiles. Fasten with construction glue and brad nails.

This hallway project required a second wainscot installation to mirror the first on

Confession Booth

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Yeah, so I goofed. My plan was to install the wainscoting just below the height of a wall switch. So, I measured the switch height and did exactly that. Here’s the problem: There were TWO light switches but I’d only measured the first one. The second switch was located nearly 1-1/2inch lower than the first I measured, but I didn’t figure this out until half the trim had been installed. This caused me to waste a lot of time relocating the second switch higher on the wall. Plus, I’ve got to repair the wall! Learn from my mistake and measure all obstacles individually without making assumptions.

Home Improvement and Repair | Issue: 04

the opposite wall. For the second run, I began by installing the bottom rail. If you’re attempting this mirrored installation at home, I should note that the measurements used on the first wall might not work for the opposite wall. In my case, the floor tile on one side of the hall was roughly 1/2 in. lower than the other side. If I were to install the same 48-in. high wainscot, the top rail would look 1/2-in. lower on the opposite wall.

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BOARD AND BATTEN FOR DIY’ERS

I marked the midpoints of the stile locations on the bottom rail.

A stop-block on the miter saw bench ensures the stiles are cut to the exact same length.

The stiles get two brad nails at the top, middle and bottom.

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A SIMPLE TAKE ON WAINSCOTING

I used a framing square to make sure the stiles were installed plumb over the lower rail.

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BOARD AND BATTEN FOR DIY’ERS

The top rail should rest evenly over the stiles.

To splice boards when forming a longer piece, use a scarf joint. This is two 30-degree bevel cuts made in opposite directions that should be centered over a stud and joined with glue and brad nails.

A framing square helped transfer the midpoint of the stiles across the hallway so I could mirror the installation.

For a symmetrical appearance, the wainscot on both walls needs to have a top rail at even height. To accomplish this, I used a Bosch laser level to generate a level line from the top rail to the opposite wall. I nailed a 1x6 block to the wall aligned with the laser to serve as a temporary stand-in for the new top rail. (If you don’t have a laser, a string level or long bubble level can accomplish the same.)

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From the bottom of the temporary block, I measured to the lower rail and determined the length of the stiles. Be sure to cut all the stiles to the exact same length and install them plumb and square. Then, replace the temporary block with the top rail.

That completes the basics of the installation.

Finish up with caulk, spackle and paint. You can also dress up your installation with a cap rail or

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A SIMPLE TAKE ON WAINSCOTING

cove molding inside the frames. One final suggestion: I recommend you add quarterround or shoe molding along the bottom to protect the trim and conceal the floor gap. Furthermore, because MDF tends to swell and warp if it gets wet, I installed

quarter-round made of PVC and sealed it to the floor with waterproof caulk. The sealed PVC is intended to protect the MDF lower rail from water if someone were to wet-mop the floor.

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A Bosch laser line generator helped me position the trim on the second wall at the same elevation as the first wall.

This temporary 1x6 block represented the top rail of the second wall, and I measured downward to determine stile length.

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The quarter-round molding was made of PVC and sealed to the floor with waterproof caulk to protect the MDF trim from moisture damage due to wet mopping.

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> Installation Tips for Paint-grade Trim

Here are some fundamental techniques for paint-grade trim that will help with door and window casings, board-and-batten trim, baseboards, chair rails and more.

You can reduce the number of brad nails (and thus nail holes to fill) by installing the trim with a combination of fasteners and construction glue.

In a perfect world, house construction would be square, plumb and level.

In the real world, it’s not.

When assembling door trim, concern yourself less with perfect squares and plumb lines, and instead let your guiding light be consistent reveals. The “reveal” is the exposure of one trim piece beneath another, which gives the trim its depth and shadow lines. A combination square makes a good trim gauge to measure a consistent reveal.

Shims are your friends.

Uneven drywall or plaster surrounding the door can interfere with the casing laying flat. To keep the faces of mitered corners aligned flush with each other, use shims inserted behind a recessed piece to push it forward until the joint is smooth. Nail the casing securely, then cut off the shim later and hide the joint with caulk.

Whenever possible, mark your trim pieces in place rather than taking measurements and transferring those measurements to the work piece. This not only saves a step but also reduces errors that can happen when transferring the measurements.

For perfectly flush faceframes, you can sand the miter seams smooth after assembly.

Once satisfied with installation, apply a flexible and paintable caulk on all joints, then tool the joint to remove excess caulk. Fill all nail holes with flexible, nonshrinking vinyl spackling paste, then once it’s dry, sand the repairs smooth.

If you have slightly uneven outside corners where the tip of the miter is a smidgen too long, you can square up the corner with a flat file.

Here is the caulked and spackled new door casing, ready for primer and paint, which will be the final phase that hides any errors and gives the installation a nice, slick, finished appearance.

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POOL SEASON

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FOR ANY

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3 SKILL LEVEL

HARD

By Carter Swift Many homeowners go to to great lengths to keep water out of the home, but Abel and Laura Martinez of Hoover, Alabama, added a wing to bring the water inside.

The new room built onto the rear of their house was designed to contain a hot tub/infinity pool for a relaxing place to take a dip and get some exercise.

A massive concrete block foundation supported the pool. Heavy steel framing supported the house extension and its surrounding deck. The interior construction, however, is what caught the attention of the HIR staff. To manage the moisture of the indoor heated pool, the team at Lovette DesignBuild employed a few techniques not often seen in residential remodeling.

Waterproof Walls

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When it comes to building interiors, the choices are limited regarding which materials can withstand prolonged contact with moisture--airborne or otherwise. Most wood will swell, cup, or bow if it gets wet, while damp drywall will develop mold and mildew.

For this reason, ceramic tile is a leading option for kitchens and bathrooms. Although it holds up to water, tile can be expensive to purchase and have

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The Martinez household added a new wing for a pool, and the finished interior required waterproof materials.

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MANAGING MOISTURE IN AN INDOOR POOL ROOM

s To prevent moisture problems inside the pool room, the builders installed fiber-cement HardiePanel siding vertically over the studs as wallboard.

s Any irregularities in the framing can mirror through the finished cement board, so correct any problems before installing the panels.

installed, and the new wing addition had a lot of area to cover.

To balance cost with the need to mitigate any moisture problems, the Martinezes decided to cover the room's ceiling and wall framing with cement board. Often used as house siding or as tile backerboard, cement board is sold under brand names such as Hardie and Durock.

For those readers unfamiliar with the material, cement board is a combination of cement and reinforcing fibers formed into sheets, 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch thick. Cement board is stronger and more impact-resistant than water-resistant gypsum drywall. The boards can be nailed or screwed to wood or steel studs, and on this project the material was used as the finish system itself.

The boards are available as 4-by-8-ft. panels and also in trim boards of varying sizes. On this

project, the rectangular Hardie trim boards were used to cover all the seams between panels, which gave the walls and ceiling the look of board-and-batten trim. Not only did this present an attractive option for the interior decor, but the cement board is 100-percent waterproof, resists cracking, rotting, swelling, damage from mold, and even comes primed for paint.

Home Improvement and Repair | Issue: 04

Waterproof Flooring

The floor of the Martinez extension was a major concern because in addition to contact with steam and condensation, it would collect all the splashes and drips that result from using the pool.

The first step in protection was to cover the subfloor with Ice & Water Shield, which is a waterproof underlayment membrane developed to protect vulnerable areas on a roof from water

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s

s The fiber-cement siding is available in primed 4x8 panels which can be cut to size.

Cement board may be cut with a carbide-tipped scoring knife, utility knife or cutting shears. If you use a grinder or circular saw, be sure to cut outside and use a Hardieblade intended for fiber cement.

The panels can be nailed into studs or solid framing with corrosion-resistant fasteners. James Hardie recommends the use of quality, hot-dipped galvanized nails. s HIRpub.blog | HIRpub.digital

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MANAGING MOISTURE IN AN INDOOR POOL ROOM

The seams between panels were covered with 3-1/2-in. fiber-cement trim strips.

The frame sections created by the trim boards gave the ceiling and walls a board-and-batten style pattern.

The caulk and paint selections for the pool room contain mildewcide to perform well in damp environments.

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The subfloor was covered from wall to wall with a protective layer of Ice & Water Shield.

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Pro-Tip: Jeremy Harris of Complete Quality Flooring custom-shapes his tapping block with a scraper so the block has the tightest fit against the flooring he will install.

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The Martinez family chose NuCore luxury vinyl plank flooring, which is designed to be 100-percent waterproof.

damage. The installers covered the entire subfloor with rolls of Ice & Water Shield, abutting the edges for a flat, continuous subsurface for the finished floor.

The next step called for installation of 100percent waterproof flooring. Available exclusively from Floor & Decor, NuCore flooring looks and feels like wood but can be installed where real wood would fail. It comes ready to install right out of the box with no acclimation time needed.

NuCore is a "luxury vinyl" product with a rigid core and cork bottom layer, which is soft underfoot and sound resistant.

The planks assemble into a floating floor and are easy to install even for a DIY'er. No nails or glue are required. Begin by laying the first plank on the left side of the wall, leaving a 1/2 inch expansion gap. Install the next plank at an angle, clicking the tongue-and-groove joint into place. Tap the end joints to close them and continue down the row. To fit the last plank in the row, measure and score with a utility knife, then snap the plank along the cut.

Start the second row with a leftover plank at least one foot long. Insert the tongue into the

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MANAGING MOISTURE IN AN INDOOR POOL ROOM

groove of the first row, then tap it into place to close the joint and eliminate any gaps between the long sides. Stagger the planks and continue until you reach the last row.

The last row should be at least two inches wide and often needs to be cut to width.

Measure and rip the last row to fit, then insert the cut planks against the wall.

The expansion gaps around the flooring can be concealed with molding or trim.

Dealing with Humidity

The Martinez pool room was designed with sliding patio doors and more windows than wall space. On warm days, the 72-in. windmill-style ceiling fan and the open windows create ample airflow to help dispel the room's humidity and keep the living space fresh and comfortable. The pool also stays covered when not in use.

But what about very cold days? To help manage humidity when the pool is uncovered and the windows are closed, the Martinezes use a commercial dehumidifier. To eliminate mold, mildew, and their associated odors, the Quest HI-E Dry 120 dehumidifier can be used stand-alone or in ducted installations for areas with heavy moisture loads.

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The tongueand-groove joints of the planks interlock to form a floating floor.

The block protects the boards as a hammer-tap closes the joints.

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Begin each new row with the cut-off plank from the previous row so the joints are staggered between rows.

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Take a Dip

Once completed, the new pool room was a beautiful sight to behold. The centerpiece: The dual zone FX219s swim spa, which features a 5-seat hot tub and a spacious swim spa in one unit. You can operate both zones at once, or use only the hot tub or only the swim spa, depending on the season and your lifestyle.

It's powered by six jets and provides ample space for a full-stride swim routine, so Abel and Laura can kick back and relax, or put in a good workout.

Don't you want a pool room, too? H

s

A Quest HI-E Dry dehumidifier helps to manage humidity when the pool is uncovered and the windows are closed.

s The dual zone FX219s swim spa features a 5-seat hot tub and a spacious swim spa in one unit.

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MANAGING MOISTURE IN AN INDOOR POOL ROOM

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PRODUCT SHOWCASE

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JOB ESSENTIALS

STAIN IT RIGHT WITH DECK BOSS PerduraBrush.com No matter how you choose to apply a stain/sealer to exterior wood, backbrushing the product into the wood-grain is always the best practice. For this reason, the HIR staff prefers to brush on a stain/sealer during the initial application.

You’ll get the best results from a quality brush such as the Deck Boss from Perdura Brushes. Specifically designed for deck-board application, it retains plenty of stain with just the right bristle stiffness for driving sealer into the wood pores. Plus, the 7-by-2 in. head with 3-in. filament length spans both sides of a 6in. deck board, and the long bristle length pushes stain in between board joints better than a flat stain pad. The reusable Deck Boss is constructed of a 304 Stainless Steel ferrule, hardwood head, HDPE plastic screw mount, and quality epoxy glue for superior filament holding ability. Suitable for water- and oil-based paints, stains, sealers, epoxy and varnish for wood and concrete.

BUY IT AVAILABLE AT

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WATCH AND LEARN Check out Matt using the Deck Boss to brush in deck stain at HIRpub.com, or simply click the video image to the left if you are reading our digital magazine at HIRpub.digital.

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MILWAUKEE TOOL’S SHOCKWAVE RED HELIX TITANIUM DRILL BITS MilwaukeeTool.com Milwaukee Tool’s new ShockWave Red Helix Titanium Drill Bits are engineered for extreme durability and longer life in wood, plastic, and metal applications. The new bits provide up to 5X life versus black oxide drill bits.

New to this generation of Red Helix bits are two features: a Quad Edge Tip and Enhanced Tapered Web. The Quad Edge Tip delivers a longer life with a precision start and four cutting edges to stay sharper longer. The drill bits’ Enhanced Tapered Web acts as an internal backbone and strengthens the bit to reduce premature breakage. The Red Helix titanium bits are also designed with a Variable Helix, which includes an aggressive 35° helical angle that varies along the flute, ending at 15° to limit heat buildup for faster material removal.The new bits are ideal for use with both drills and impact drivers and are available in sizes ranging from 1/16 to 1/2 inch.

H

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CUT AN INTERIOR DOOR FOR FLOOR CLEARANCE

By Matt Weber

HOW MUCH FLOOR CLEARANCE IS REQUIRED? For basic function of the door to swing open and closed, its bottom should clear all obstructions (floor registers, etc.) by at least 1/8 inch. Now, depending on the circumstances of the room in question, you might want more clearance to allow better return airflow throughout the house.

For example, we recently trimmed the

door of a kitchen pantry which had no air-conditioning duct, so we kept the floor clearance to 1/8 inch because the homeowner preferred the look of a smaller gap, and the door had no issue with airflow. However, a bedroom with HVAC registers is usually separated from the air return by the door, in which case a very tight gap beneath the door may restrict the system’s airflow. A common symptom of this is a door that resists opening or that slams shut when the HVAC system activates, due to an air-pressure imbalance.

In this case, a 5/8-in. gap beneath the bedroom door is considered standard. For floors with high-pile carpets, a larger gap might be necessary, and for venting the humid air of bathrooms, some pro remodelers recommend as much as 7/8-in. door-to-floor clearance.

[STEP 1]

[STEP 2]

Remodeling projects often require trimming the bottom of an interior door shorter. Installation of new floor covering often raises the height of the floor, causing the door bottom to bind against it and preventing proper operation. To solve the problem, remove the door from its hinges and cut the bottom shorter–but keep in mind, there’s a right way and wrong way to do this.

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STEP 1 Wrap the door bot-

tom with painter’s tape. Use a strip of plywood or a ruler as a gauge to mark the cut height.

Place the gauge on the floor and mark a line along the width of the door.

STEP 2 Remove the hinge

[STEP 3]

[STEP 4]

pins (start at the bottom and work upward), then remove the door, place on sawhorses and clamp it securely. It’s smart to first blanket the sawhorses to protect the door finish. Apply extra tape along the door bottom to protect the door finish from the saw base.

STEP 3 Use a square to mark the cut-line completely around all sides of the door.

[STEP 5]

The Ugly Alternative Skip this door-cutting advice at your own peril.

The problem with simply grabbing a circ saw and cutting the door is that the saw teeth tear out of the wood veneer and leave a noticeably ragged edge, as shown in this photo.

To keep your cut clean, follow our tips!

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Home Improvement and Repair | Issue: 04

STEP 4 Use a sharp utility knife and straight edge to repeatedly score the cut-line around all edges of the door.

This is an important step

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CUT AN INTERIOR DOOR FOR FLOOR CLEARANCE because it prevents the wood veneer from chipping out when the saw teeth exit the door.

STEP 5 Equip a circular saw with a thin-kerf blade. For the straightest cut, align a saw guide along the razor-scored cut-line, with the blade kerf aligned with the waste side of the cut.

STEP 6 Set the saw’s cutting depth so only the tip of three teeth extend beyond the thickness of the door.

[STEP 6]

[STEP 7]

STEP 7 Carefully make the

cut while holding onto the waste piece so it doesn’t fall away and chip out the wood as you complete the cut.

STEP 8 If necessary, touch up the cut with sandpaper– but if you follow these steps carefully, you’ll probably find no sanding necessary. Re-hang the door, and the job is done.

H

[STEP 8]

Make Your Own Saw Guide

When clamped in place, a saw guide will help keep the saw straight when cutting doors or ripping panels and sheet goods to width. You can make your own simple guide using two lengths of plywood fastened together as shown in the diagram.

Align the top fence board against your saw plate, and cut the lower board to fit the base of your saw.

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• • • • •

Industrial strength tools, save time on every job Height adjustable handle, work standing up No pre-drilling required — even in Ipe Drive 1” to 3” screws, 150 screws per easy load coil Repeatable countersinking, set the depth and go

STAND UP TO THAT NEXT JOB...AND YOUR BACK AND KNEES WILL THANK YOU!

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