Home Improvement and Repairs Step-By-Step Handbook

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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS

STEP-BY-STEP

TM

HAND BOOK INSTALLING SHIPLAP SIDING ON A CEILING PAGE 1 HOW TO REPLACE A CEILING FAN PAGE 7

CONSTRUCT A RUSTIC-STYLE WOODEN BED PAGE 15 CUT AN INTERIOR DOOR FOR FLOOR CLEARANCE PAGE 21 HOW TO REPAIR BRICK STEPS PAGE 27 BUILDING A DRY-STACK STONE LANDSCAPE WALL PAGE 33

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INSTALL SHIPLAP SIDING ON A CEILING

By Matt Weber

Like many other homeowners, my wife and I had grown weary of the sea of cottage cheese that covered our ceiling. Acoustical “popcorn” texture is no longer in style, and we had never really liked it in the first place. To get a new look, we either had to scrape it off (an enormous mess) or conceal it with something more attractive. We chose the second option.

Shiplap siding has become popular for interiors thanks in part to its prevalent use as a decorative accent on certain cable TV shows. Not only do the boards offer a different look than the usual painted plaster/drywall surfaces of a home, but shiplap’s simple overlapping installation means DIY remodelers don’t have to tape and mud drywall joints.

That is a huge selling point, considering that finishing the joints is

the most difficult and time-consuming drywall skill to master. Shiplap can be used to create accent walls, barn doors, headboards, mirrors, frames and wall art.

After some consideration, we settled on installing a shiplap ceiling once we found a material with a “rustic” finish. Shanna and I have three young kids--ages 9, 5 and 3--which means our home takes major abuse. Finely finished furniture does’t stand a chance of survival, but a rustic interior tends to disguise the dents and dings our children regularly inflict on the home. Since our house is decked out in a rustic style, the “Rustic Collection" of the UFPEdge shiplap material seemed to fit right in.

The UFP-Edge boards are made from genuine lumber that has been distressed, primed and painted to have the authentic look and

[STEP 1]. First step is to locate and mark the ceiling joists.

[STEP 2]. Snap a chalk line along each joist to show where to drive nails.

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texture of vintage rustic barn wood. The boards are also consistently sized to eliminate any sorting or guesswork during installation.

[STEP 3] I tacked up the first board using trim-head screws to test the fit and layout of the shiplap to the ceiling.

[STEP 4] As with any boardpattern installation, you’ll have to measure and cut some pieces to fit.

HOW IT’S HANGING At the time of installation, I did not find specific guidelines on fastening the shiplap boards to a ceiling. I phoned the manufacturer, who said the most critical element was to adhere to the specific recommendations for fastener depth. The instructions called for trim nails (15 or 16 gauge) long enough for 1-1/4to 1-1/2-in. of penetration into solid wood framing.

Because these boards would be defying gravity, I decided the smart move was to aim for 1-1/2-in. fastener penetration into the ceiling joists. The fasteners should be driven through the tongue of the shiplap (1/4 in. thick) as well as the face of the shiplap (1/2 in. thick). Avoid nailing through the overlaps.

So, to determine the required fastener length, I used the following equation: 5/8” textured ceiling thickness + 4/8” shiplap thickness = 1-1/8”

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[STEP 5] The boards simply overlap to conceal the tongue of the previous row.

1-1/8” + 1-4/8” penetration depth into framing = 2-5/8” fastener length

[STEP 6] The shiplap must be nailed through the tongue and the face of the board 1-1/2” into solid framing.The board tongues measure roughly 1/4”, but the board face is 1/2” thick.

[STEP 7] As the installation progressed, I fastened the board tongues with 2-1/2” 16-gauge finish nails.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

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INSTALL SHIPLAP SIDING ON A CEILING

[STEP 8] To fasten through the board faces, I first equipped my framing nailer with a home-made protective tip made from pipe insulation. The tip prevents damage to the boards as I fire 3” framing nails through the thickest part of the shiplap roughly 1” from the bottom edge.

Now, here’s where things get fun. I was planning to nail all the boards in place with a 16-gauge finish nailer, but the nails for a 16-gauge gun are only sold up to 2-1/2-in. long. That nail size works fine when nailing the thin tongue of the shiplap boards, but it would be 1/8-in. short of my ideal fastener length when nailing through the face. Could I get away with using shorter nails and have no problems with the boards detaching?

Very possibly, yes. But since I did not know for sure, I decided to play it safe and take a different route.

One option is to hand-nail 10d finish nails through the shiplap and into the framing. These 3-in. nails work well and leave only a small nail hole to repair, but the work is a slow process, and the repetitive motion can really wear on your neck and shoulders.

I did not have that kind of patience and went with bigger bullets. Although, pneumatic finish nails are generally only sold in 2-1/2-in. sizes, pneumatic framing nails are a different story.

Because this was a rustic paintgrade project, I face-nailed the boards with 3-in. framing nails using a cordless Paslode gun.

This allowed me to quickly fire the boards into the framing with little effort, knowing the nail size and penetration depth would

[STEP 9] The framing nailer proved to be a fast and strong way to face-nail the boards overhead.

[STEP 10] You’ll need to set up a nearby workbench or saw-horses to make all the board cuts. Use a circular saw with a fine-tooth blade. Keep a jigsaw handy if you have any cutouts to make for ceiling penetrations, such as light fixtures or ceiling fans.

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INSTALL SHIPLAP SIDING ON A CEILING

[STEP 11] If you encounter a bowed board that is difficult to fit, you can temporarily tack up a cut-off piece alongside it and use a pry bar to lever the bent board into position while nailing it in place.

[STEP 14] To repair the nail holes, we applied color-matched wood putty and brushed it in to blend with the board texture.

[STEP 12] Stagger the board joints from row to row. Due to the light weight of the material, I could lift a board into place with one hand and fasten with the other, making this job suitable for one-man installation.

[STEP 15] To ensure the tightest fit, I held the trim boards in place and marked the cut lines directly on the work pieces.

Completed ceiling.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

[STEP 13] I concealed the rough edges of the board with some simple matching trim available from UFP-Edge which I nailed into the wall studs.

hold the shiplap to the ceiling with rock-solid strength.

To protect the boards from being damaged by the tip of the nailer, I duct-taped a homemade “no-mar tip” onto the gun made from a ringlet of foam pipe insulation.

Note that I DO NOT recommend the use of framing nails for stain-grade shiplap in which the woodgrain will be exposed, because the large nails will riddle the finish with holes that will be impossible to fully conceal with wood filler. However, the painted and textured surface of our rustic white boards meant I could apply a colormatched wood filler to the nail holes and then brush the spackling repairs to match the factory texture.

In the end, this approach to installation worked very well-finish nails through the tongue, framing nails through the face.

After installing some simple matching molding along the edges, we had a cool, new shiplap ceiling with a rustic appearance and no cottage cheese in sight.

Find out more about the rustic shiplap planks at www.ufpedge.com. H

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HOW TO REPLACE A CEILING FAN

By Matt Weber

Ceiling fans improve airflow, provide a cooling breeze to a stuffy room, and I don't understand how some people fall asleep without them.

During a recent ceiling remodel, the existing fan was ruled stylistically "out of date" and scheduled for replacement. We upgraded with a new Casa Vieja Terrazzo model from Lamps PLUS, which has a sleek, contemporary look, a dimmable light and remote-control operation.

REMOVE THE OLD FAN Obligatory safety note: When working on a ceiling fan or any hard-wired electrical appliance, turn off its power at the breaker box. Test the wires to ensure the power is off, then secure the breaker box while you're working.

You'll probably need a ladder to do this job.

[STEP 1]

Fans vary greatly by design, so the removal and replacement procedure differs somewhat among models. Yet, they all have commonalities, including a mounting bracket that attaches to the electrical box, and a canopy that encloses the wiring.

STEP 1 First step is to remove any bulbs or glassware

associated with the fan's light fixture. This prevents accidental breakage, decreases the fan's weight, and makes it a smaller, more manageable package. The glass pieces might be held by retaining screws, or they could be threaded and simply twist off the fan.

STEP 2 Next, remove the canopy.

These are typically held in place with small Phillips-head

[STEP 2]

[STEP 3]

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screws. The fan shown had four screws. I removed the two fixed screws, then loosened the two screws in the keyhole slots, which allowed me to twist and lower the canopy.

STEP 3 Once the wiring is exposed, I suggest that inexperienced DIY'ers snap a photo of the connections for reconnection with the new fan. Separate the wires by removing the wire nuts and untwisting the copper connections within them.

Now, it's time to remove the fan body.

[STEP 4]

[STEP 5]

[STEP 6]

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

STEP 4 The fan shown utilizes a common mounting method for modern fans. The fan has a "hanger ball" at the top of the downrod, which is a thick projection similar to the head of a nail.

The tapered mounting bracket has an open slot on the side.

STEP 5 To remove the fan, lift the entire unit so the hanger ball dislodges from its nesting position, allowing you to slip it through the open slot, which frees the fan from the ceiling. You can donate the fan to a local housing charity or toss it into the garbage if it's in bad shape.

But wait! Not all old fans utilize this mounting-bracket method, so be prepared for some deviations.

Some older models used a metal hook on the hanger ball that supports the fan's weight by hooking over a metal loop in a ceiling plate. I've also replaced fans that connected to a ceiling bracket using a metal dowel and cotter pin.

Although mounting methods vary, be prepared to carry the full weight of the fan unit once you've freed it of its mounting mechanism. The motor is the heaviest component, and depending on model might require two people to lift it down from the ceiling. You can also remove the fan blades before dismounting to lessen the

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HOW TO REPLACE A CEILING FAN weight and "shrink" its size. The blades are usually fastened with screws, so simply unscrew them individually.

With the fan out of the way, next step is to unscrew the mounting bracket (or ceiling plate) from the ceiling, then hopefully you're ready for new fan installation!

Wait. Hit the brakes...

STEP 6 Evidently, the last person who installed a fan in this room skipped the following section of the instructions. You, however, should not.

Per electrical code (and common sense), you need a stronger ceiling box to hold a heavy fan in motion than the flimsy plastic one required to hold a simple light fixture. Ever seen a wobbly fan swinging precariously from its ceiling mounting? If mounted to an old plastic box, that wobbly fan's mounting screws are probably in process of stripping out of the plastic housing, so you'd better wear a helmet.

STEP 7 Since the previous fan installer didn't heed such sound advice, I ventured into the attic to pry loose the old plastic light box from where it was nailed to the ceiling joist. This is a standard requirement when you upgrade from a light fixture to a ceiling fan. If you find yourself doing the same, first cut away any caulk or paint around the box's rim in the ceiling of the room below.

[STEP 7]

[STEP 8]

STEP 8 A ceiling fan requires a

metal ETL-listed mounting box.

The fan’s outlet box must be fastened to the house framing (with the appropriate fasteners) to support the moving weight of the fan--at least 50 lbs.

STEP 9 The Raco fan box I purchased comes with an L-shaped bracket. To install, fasten the

[STEP 9]

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bracket firmly into the framing using wood screws at least 1-1/2 in. long, then bolt the box into the threaded holes of the bracket.

Make sure the bottom edge of the box aligns flush with the ceiling.

Note: If your ideal fan location doesn't align next to a ceiling joist, you can install cross-brace 2x blocking between joists from which to hang the box, or use an adjustable metal support bar (see sidebar).

[STEP 10]

HANG THE NEW FAN When working on a new fan, most manufacturers recommend using a handheld screwdriver rather than a powered one. This is so you don't misalign any screw threads or strip out a fastener head by using too much torque.

While that makes sense, I still use a power driver because it saves time, but I set the tool to its lowest torque setting, and so should you.

[STEP 11]

STEP 10 The replacement fan shown uses a very similar mounting system as the one we removed.

First, mount the hanger bracket into the new fan box using the provided hardened metal bolts.

STEP 11 Next, assemble the fan components according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I won't spend a great deal of time on the specifics, because assembly will vary somewhat among fan models. All fans will include a hanger mechanism, canopy,

[STEP 12]

Fan Fact: They Cool People, Not Homes Although a ceiling fan is a "cooling" device, the operation of its electrical motor actually adds a small degree of heat to the room. Ceiling fans provide evaporative cooling and aid

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convective cooling, but they're only useful when they move air over someone's skin. If the airflow generated by a fan isn't hitting anyone's skin, it's only making the space warmer with no cooling benefit. So, when no one is in the room, turn off the fan to conserve energy.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

What Size Fan Do You Need?

If a room's longest wall is 12′ or less, use a 36″ diameter ceiling fan.

If a room's longest wall is 12′ to 15′, use a 42″ diameter ceiling fan.

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HOW TO REPLACE A CEILING FAN downrod, motor, blades and usually a light.

A fan's downrod is often sold in optional sizes. The downrod works double duty to support the fan's weight while also serving as a wire chase for the fan. So, if you have a high ceiling but want your fan to hang 8 feet above the floor, then you can order a longer downrod to account for ceiling height. The Casa Vieja model shown had the choice of seven downrod sizes, measuring up to 72 inches to accommodate 16-ft. ceilings.

[STEP 13]

STEP 12 Install the new fan

and motor assembly, in this case by hooking the hanger ball into the registration slot of the mounting bracket. With this model, you rotate the hanger ball until the check groove drops into the slot and seats firmly.

STEP 13 With the weight sup-

ported by the bracket, you're hands are now free to make the wiring connections. Always refer to the fan manufacturer’s instructions for specific wiring guidelines. For example, the fan shown included remote-control operation. This required me to connect the remote control receiver to the wiring. The receiver tucks into the mounting bracket.

[STEP 14]

STEP 14 The wiring procedure

will be fairly straightforward: Twist together the stripped ends of the color-matched and ground

[STEP 15]

Install a Ceiling Fan Between Joists To hang a ceiling fan between joists, consider using a Fan Box with Support Bar. Made by companies such as Raco and Westinghouse, they support ceiling fans between structural members safely and securely where access is limited. Engineered for installation during remodeling or new construction, the mounting brace can be installed in finished ceilings through a 4-inch hole. The brace allows easy expansion, adjustable from 16 to 24 inches. The electrical box can be positioned anywhere on the bar to fit your project needs. (Photo © Hubbell Raco)

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HOW TO REPLACE A CEILING FAN wires, then secure them with a UL-listed wire nut (and wrap with electrical tape for extra safety).

Once wiring is complete, gently push the connections into the electrical box.

[STEP 16]

STEP 15 With all connections complete, cover with the canopy, which usually fastens with screws and conceals all wiring and mounting components. This fan included a stubby screwdriver that makes it easy to tighten the canopy screws situated so closely to the motor.

STEP 16 Next comes some key components--the fan blades.

A screwdriver is all you need to fasten them in place.

STEP 17 Finally, install the light kit. This Casa Vieja model utilizes a dimmable LED light fixture that simply plugs together with a pushfit connection, along with a soft diffuser that screws in place.

FINAL STEP Last step is to

[STEP 17]

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

reconnect the breaker and turn on the power. In this case, the fan's lighting and three-speed operation can be controlled by wireless remote. H

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CONSTRUCT A RUSTIC-STYLE WOODEN BED

By Matt Weber

A few years ago I built my son a bed using reclaimed lumber from an old farmhouse owned by my grandparents. I now have a second son and a two-year-old daughter, which means I'm on the hook to build two more beds. The bed shown in this article is one I made for my youngest son, combining the same old-growth pine with some new store-bought lumber to create an old-fashioned cabin-style headboard and heavy-duty bed frame.

The only difference in design between this one and my oldest son's bed is the orientation of the reclaimed tongue-and-groove boards of the headboard—horizontal boards on the first bed and vertical boards on the second—a design detail you can customize for your own bed.

BED FRAME The following instructions pertain to a queen size bed, nominally 60-by-80 inches.

I used a 12-in. sliding miter saw to cut four 6×6 bed posts to 11 inches. For the bed frame, You’ll need seven 8-ft. 2x4s; four for the bed rails and three for the crossmembers. The top of the frame is sheathed with 1/2-in. plywood flush with the edges.

Construction of the frame is fairly simple, with the exception of the notched posts that receive the rails. After cutting the posts to size and sanding them to an even height, mark the top ends with a Speed Square, allowing 3-1/2-in. of each 2x4 rail to set inside the corner posts flush with the outside edges of the bed.

The base is a simple but sturdy 2x4 bedframe supported by 6x6 posts.

[STEP 1] I cut the 6x6 into 11” posts using a 12” Bosch gliding miter saw.

[STEP 2] Sand the posts flat and even.

[STEP 3] Notch the posts to receive 3-1/2” of the 2x4 bed rails.

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This photo shows the orientation of the post notches.

[STEP 4] Apply glue to the joints to reduce squeaking in the bed.

[STEP 5] Drive offset screws through the rails into the posts.

[STEP 6] Apply stain to what will be the visible areas of the bed frame.

The headboard is constructed from 2x8 and 1x6 fastened over a 1/2” plywood backer.

The 1x6 boards I used were reclaimed T&G boards from an old farmhouse, which I washed off before construction.

[See photo for orientation of post notches to accept the bed rails.]

Use a circular saw to cut the notches (although you'll have to finish the cuts with a jigsaw, multi-tool or wood chisel).

Cut the 2x4 bed rails to length and insert them into the notches, using wood glue at all joints to help eliminate squeaking in the bed. Fasten the rails snugly using 3-in. wood screws. Use at least two offset screws driven through the face of each end into the posts.

The outside dimensions of the frame should approximate the size of bed you’re trying to build.

This queen size frame measured 58-1/2 by 79 inches.

Fasten the cross-members by spacing them evenly between the end rails then driving long screws through the side rails and into their end grain. Use two screws at each connection.

Make sure the top edge of the cross-members align flush with the top of the posts and bed rails.

Cover the bed frame with 1/2-in. plywood, butting the sheets together over the center cross-member. Screw the plywood down using 1-in. screws every 18 inches over the 2x4s and cut flush with the outer edges of the frame.

I finished the bed frame with wood stain and two coats of polyurethane. However, I taped off its edges and left the interior plywood unfinished, since it would be concealed by a mattress.

PRESTAIN THE HEADBOARD

[STEP 7] Cut the 2x8s to length. Use a table saw to cut a 3/4”x3/8” groove along one edge of each.

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[STEP 8 ] To match the weathered textured of the old boards, I distressed the surface of the new boards using a variety of tools, such as chains, hex nuts, hammers and a punch tool.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

My first step was to lightly wash the old reclaimed 1x tongue-and-groove pine to remove loose dirt. I love the old, distressed wood, complete with pinholes and rich character, but didn't want the dirt.

Note that any 1x wood boards could be substituted for the reclaimed lumber I used.

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CONSTRUCT A RUSTIC-STYLE WOODEN BED Rip the rounded edges off the new 2x8’s. The 2x8 boards will compose a frame around the old reclaimed 1x boards. Cut the 2x8s to length, then rip 3x8-in. rabbets along the inside edges of the 2x8’s on a table saw. The grooves will conceal the butted ends of the 1x6 T&G boards.

I recommend pre-staining all visible headboard components prior to assembly. There are many options for finishing, but I wanted this bed to maintain the aged and weathered appearance of the reclaimed 1x6 boards. My plan was to combine the reclaimed wood with new store-bought lumber.

To make the store-bought 2x8 lumber match the look of the old wood, I distressed the texture of the new boards. To achieve this effect, I beat up the surface, using a hammer, hex nuts and a trucker chain to dent and ding the wood. I even used a punch tool to add some characteristic termite holes that matched the reclaimed pine.

Because the new 2×8s had a much brighter color tone than the darker, weathered old boards, I applied a darker wood stain than I used on the 1x6 to achieve a close match between the old and new materials.

[STEP 9] Stain the headboard components prior to assembly.

[STEP 10] Fasten the top 2x8 and one of the legs onto the backerboard.

[STEP 11] Install the 2x8s using construction adhesive as well as screws driven through the back of the plywood.

[STEP 12] Loosely lay the 1x6 boards along the 2x8.

[STEP 13] The butted ends of the 1x6 should fit inside the groove of the 2x8 to conceal the joints.

[STEP 14] Adjust the placement and sequence of the 1x6 boards until satisfied with the pattern.

[STEP 15] Use long pipe clamps can help squeeze the assembly together.

[STEP 16] Fasten the 1x6 with screws driven from the back. Use screws short enough to avoid penetrating the 1x6 board face.

HEADBOARD ASSEMBLY Assembly of the bed’s headboard begins with a 4×8 sheet of 1/2-in. plywood as a backerboard. All the other boards will be screwed onto the plywood backer. I used the sheet’s entire 48-in. height but trimmed its length to 59-1/2 inches.

Mount a 2x8 across the top of the plywood backer, cut flush with the edges. Screw it and glue it from the back with cabinet screws. Make sure the rabbet is oriented to the inside edge of the 2x8.

Install one of the headboard's legs, butting against the top 2x8 and aligning it flush with the

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[STEP 17] After fastening the second leg, install the final 2x8 cut to fit between the legs.

[STEP 18] I ripped the 1x6 boards narrow on a table saw to use as trim pieces.

[STEP 19] Trim screws from U2 fasteners have small heads that can be easily concealed with filler.

[STEP 20] Each trim piece has a 3/4” reveal to add depth and shadow lines.

[STEP 21] The side trim extends the full length of the legs.

[STEP 22] The completed headboard is coated in polyurethane.

[STEP 23] The headboard connects to the bed frame with 5/16x5” Construction Screws from U2 Fasteners.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

edge of the backer. Screw it and glue it securely from behind.

Make sure to orient the rabbet of the 2×8 legs facing inside.

The legs extend beyond the bottom of the plywood the same distance as the height of the completed bed frame. In my case, the legs extended 11-1/2 inches (post height plus thickness of plywood sheathing).

Clamps will help to hold the work-pieces steady while you fasten them together.

Note: When screwing from the back of the 1/2-in. ply, be sure to use screws short enough to avoid penetrating the face of the boards. Remember that although the 2x8s are 1-1/2-in. thick, the 1x boards only measure 3/4 inch, meaning any screw longer than 1-1/4 inch will penetrate the 1x board face.

At this point, I found it helpful to turn the entire headboard upside down and use gravity to help me keep the boards aligned. I laid out the old T&G boards loosely and adjusted their sequence to get the color and texture pattern I thought would look best to complete the field.

Once I was satisfied with the T&G board pattern, I applied glue to the plywood then re-clamped the boards on top using long pipe clamps to close the stubborn tongue-and-groove joints.

I fastened them all by carefully screwing through the rear of the backer.

As I completed the T&G field, I installed the final leg, sandwiching the old boards between the two parallel 2x8s and squeezing the entire assembly tight with long clamps before screwing them in place. The next step of the headboard is to add the bottom 2x8 cut to fit flush between the legs.

I then flipped the headboard back upright to install the surrounding trim. To give the headboard

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CONSTRUCT A RUSTIC-STYLE WOODEN BED some shadow lines and a more finished appearance, I installed 1x trim that I ripped from the old T&G. First, I ripped two trim boards wide enough to conceal the side edges of the headboard, plus a 3/4-in. reveal. I aligned the rear edge of these two side pieces with the back of the plywood. The trim boards begin at the floor and end flush with the top of the plywood, fastened to the leg with wood glue and finish nails.

The final piece is the top trim board that creates a narrow mantle shelf on the headboard. The top shelf should be cut long enough to create a 3/4-in. reveal over the trim boards on each side. The shelf should also be ripped 3/4-in. wider than the side trim boards to create a 3/4-in. reveal along the top.

I used glue and a few trim-head screws to install the top trim piece.

The trim screws have a small fastener head that is easy to conceal with wood filler and stain.

After the headboard was fully assembled, a few coats of polyurethane gave it a rich gloss that highlighted the distressed character of the wood.

The two sections of the bed will each be very heavy, so plan to move the completed headboard and bed

frame separately. Recruit some help for the labor.

When you’re ready to assemble the bed, center the headboard along the back of the bed frame. Use an impact driver to drive a couple of offset 5-in. rugged structural screws

through each 2x8 leg and into the 6x6 bed posts. Move the bed into place so the headboard rests against the wall.

Apply a mattress. Find a pillow.

Take a nap.

H

[STEP 24] Take a nap.

Create-A-Bed Adjustable Deluxe Murphy Bed Mechanism The Create-A-Bed Adjustable Deluxe Murphy Bed Mechanism is a patented, state-of-the-art piston lift system that comes with complete, step-by-step construction/assembly instructions, an easy-to-follow tutorial video and toll-free Technical Assistance. These illustrated instruction booklets include the cut sheets, bills of materials and templates to build a specific size and style of Murphy bed. Made in the USA, this unique Murphy bed mechanism can be adjusted quickly and simply—even after a bed has been installed, and without changing hardware locations. You can easily adjust a Murphy bed that’s too heavy or too light. With old fashioned hardware, that used to mean taking everything apart to add or remove bulky, hazardous metal springs. But now, thanks to Create-A-Bed’s patented mechanism, a murphy bed can be adjusted in seconds. You won’t even need to move the mattress!

All of the hardware mounting positions have been standardized. The state-of-the-art gas spring mechanism and heavy-duty, commercial-grade American-made components are economically priced and feature a limited lifetime warranty. Learn more at www.createabed.com.

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CUT AN INTERIOR DOOR FOR FLOOR CLEARANCE

By Matt Weber

HOW MUCH FLOOR CLEARANCE IS REQUIRED? For basic function of the door to swing open and closed, its bottom should clear all obstructions (floor registers, etc.) by at least 1/8 inch. Now, depending on the circumstances of the room in question, you might want more clearance to allow better return airflow throughout the house.

For example, we recently trimmed the

door of a kitchen pantry which had no air-conditioning duct, so we kept the floor clearance to 1/8 inch because the homeowner preferred the look of a smaller gap, and the door had no issue with airflow. However, a bedroom with HVAC registers is usually separated from the air return by the door, in which case a very tight gap beneath the door may restrict the system’s airflow. A common symptom of this is a door that resists opening or that slams shut when the HVAC system activates, due to an air-pressure imbalance.

In this case, a 5/8-in. gap beneath the bedroom door is considered standard. For floors with high-pile carpets, a larger gap might be necessary, and for venting the humid air of bathrooms, some pro remodelers recommend as much as 7/8-in. door-to-floor clearance.

[STEP 1]

[STEP 2]

Remodeling projects often require trimming the bottom of an interior door shorter. Installation of new floor covering often raises the height of the floor, causing the door bottom to bind against it and preventing proper operation. To solve the problem, remove the door from its hinges and cut the bottom shorter–but keep in mind, there’s a right way and wrong way to do this.

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STEP 1 Wrap the door bot-

tom with painter’s tape. Use a strip of plywood or a ruler as a gauge to mark the cut height.

Place the gauge on the floor and mark a line along the width of the door.

STEP 2 Remove the hinge

[STEP 3]

[STEP 4]

pins (start at the bottom and work upward), then remove the door, place on sawhorses and clamp it securely. It’s smart to first blanket the sawhorses to protect the door finish. Apply extra tape along the door bottom to protect the door finish from the saw base.

STEP 3 Use a square to

mark the cut-line completely around all sides of the door.

STEP 4 Use a sharp utility

[STEP 5]

The Ugly Alternative Skip this door-cutting advice at your own peril.

The problem with simply grabbing a circ saw and cutting the door is that the saw teeth tear out of the wood veneer and leave a noticeably ragged edge, as shown in this photo.

To keep your cut clean, follow our tips!

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

knife and straight edge to repeatedly score the cut-line around all edges of the door.

This is an important step

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CUT AN INTERIOR DOOR FOR FLOOR CLEARANCE because it prevents the wood veneer from chipping out when the saw teeth exit the door.

STEP 5 Equip a circular saw with a thin-kerf blade. For the straightest cut, align a saw guide along the razor-scored cut-line, with the blade kerf aligned with the waste side of the cut.

STEP 6 Set the saw’s cutting depth so only the tip of three teeth extend beyond the thickness of the door.

[STEP 6]

[STEP 7]

STEP 7 Carefully make the

cut while holding onto the waste piece so it doesn’t fall away and chip out the wood as you complete the cut.

STEP 8 If necessary, touch

up the cut with sandpaper– but if you follow these steps carefully, you’ll probably find no sanding necessary. Re-hang the door, and the job is done.

H

[STEP 8]

Make Your Own Saw Guide When clamped in place, a saw guide will help keep the saw straight when cutting doors or ripping panels and sheet goods to width. You can make your own simple guide using two lengths of plywood fastened together as shown in the diagram.

Align the top fence board against your saw plate, and cut the lower board to fit the base of your saw.

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HOW TO REPAIR BRICK STEPS

By Matt Weber

You’ve seen it many times: Brick steps that fall apart at the mortar joints. Over time, the outdoor elements deteriorate the mortar and cause the bricks to loosen and dislodge. Broken steps aren’t only ugly, they’re a safety hazard. You can pay a brick mason or handyman to make the repairs or you can save money and make this inexpensive repair yourself.

Step 1 First step is to completely remove the loose bricks. Chip off the old mortar from the loose bricks as well as the existing brickwork that’s still intact. To remove the mortar, you can use a hammer and mason’s chisel, or an air hammer. Brush away the debris with a stiff-bristle or wire brush to create a clean surface for new mortar.

you’d like to reinstall them to make sure you have all the bricks you need.

Step 4 Soak the bricks in water and use a garden hose to rinse the damaged steps. This is to prevent the dry materials from leaching water out of the mortar too quickly, which could cause the joints to cure improperly and lessen their strength. The work area should be damp but have no standing water.

Step 5 Use water to mix the mortar for the repair. If you have no experience working with mortar, you’ll probably end up using more than you would expect. A 10-lb. bag costs only about $3 but it doesn’t yield very much. A 60-lb. bag goes for less than $6, so spring for the larger bag and spare yourself a return trip to the home center.

Step 2 & 3 Temporarily replace the bricks in the arrangement

[STEP 1a]

[STEP 1b]

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Step 6 Mortar is easiest to mix using a drill attachment, and the mortar’s consistency should work similar to very thick cake frosting. If it’s too thin, it will push out of the joints beneath the weight of the brick, indicating you have too much water in the mix (so add more powder). A wetter mix might be easier to work with, but a drier mix will achieve a stronger bond. In some cases, you might want to tint the new mortar to match the old mortar joints.

[STEP 2]

[STEP 3]

Step 7 Use a masonry trowel to apply a 1-in. thick mortar bed to all sides and the bottom of the brick cavity.

Step 8 Place the first brick and tap it with the rubber mallet (or the trowel handle) until it’s flush with the adjacent bricks.

Step 9 & 10 Make sure to pack the joints and holes in the bricks with mortar so they interlock and bond with each other.

Step 11 & 12 Use a bubble level and/or straight-edge to align the front and top of each brick to ensure your

[STEP 4]

[STEP 5 & 6]

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[STEP 7]

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

[STEP 8]

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HOW TO REPAIR BRICK STEPS

[STEP 9]

[STEP 10]

steps remain level. Repeat this procedure for each brick.

Step 13 Press additional mortar into the joints with a tuck-pointing tool or wood dowel. Scrape away excess mortar with the trowel, then use your pointing tool to shape the mortar joints to match the surrounding structure.

Step 14 On this repair, we used the oldfashioned “mud trick,” where we mixed a little black mud collected on site into the mortar for the final application to the joints. We did this to darken the color to more [STEP11]

[STEP 12]

[STEP 13]

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HOW TO REPAIR BRICK STEPS closely match the old mortar of the steps. Charcoal dust also works for this.

Step 15 Allow the loose mortar to set until it becomes crumbly, then brush it away from the bricks with a stiff-bristle brush.

Step 16 To clean away mortar residue on the steps, I saved some elbow grease by letting a reciprocating saw do the work. This quick couple-attachment from Recipro Tools chucks into the blade holder. You can then use a variety of brushes that insert with a hex end, allowing you to angle the brush for the most comfortable working position.

[STEP 14]

Step 17 The completed repair should blend with the rest of the brick steps.

H [STEP 15]

[STEP 16]

REPAIRED BRICK STEPS

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BUILDING A DRY-STACK STONE LANDSCAPE WALL

By Carter Swift

The term “dry-stack” refers to a stone wall that appears to have been constructed without using mortar. A dry-stack landscape wall can integrate natural materials into the design of your outdoor living space. Although mortar can be used during construction of a dry-stack wall, it is hidden near the rear or interior of the wall, so only the natural rock is visible.

The popularity of the dry-stack method is due in part to its versatility. A dry-stack wall can be integrated into a retaining wall system, used as a low-profile landscape border, or built as a freestanding wall.

When used as a retaining wall, a dry-stack wall will have maximum strength if it slopes in two directions. This means the face of the wall must batter (lean backward) into the slope it retains, usually about 1/2 to 1 inch per foot. The top course should also pitch slightly toward the slope with the outward edge of the rim as the high point.

Note: For building sites that have steep slopes, consult a soil engineer or landscape professional to help design a plan to handle drainage and mitigate erosion. Some local building codes require soil engineers to approve plans for retaining walls above 4 feet tall.

Dry-stack stone can be used to border sidewalks, installed as decorative landscape edging, or even used for retaining walls.

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[STEP 1] Start with a 3-4” mortar bed.

[STEP 2] Place the largest stones on the bottom course.

[STEP 3] For the following courses, place the mortar along the back of the stones.

[STEP 4] Try to stagger the joints between courses.

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[STEP 5] Use a brick hammer to shape the stones as needed.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Step-By-Step Issue

First step in constructing a dry-stack retaining wall is to excavate the ground in the rough shape you want the wall. Dig into the face of the slope at the same angle that the wall will batter. Another option is to construct the retaining wall at the bottom of the slope and then fill behind it with gravel and soil. In some cases, site and soil conditions require a combination of both methods, but in both cases, you should leave room behind the wall to add drainage gravel.

The wall shown was made of several stone courses, the top of which was covered with the final layer of surface pavers.

That final course of pavers was mortared onto the border wall and served as the capstone.

After the wall was constructed, the bottom two wall courses were buried beneath a berm of compacted earth to help hold it in place along the slope.

This short sidewalk border wall won’t retain much earth and water, but taller walls must support more weight and hydrostatic pressure that pushes outward against the wall.

Therefore, taller walls require better drainage.

GIVE IT A BREAK Working with natural stone means dealing with irregularly shaped building materials. You

[STEP 6] Small rock fragments can be used to fill gaps and strengthen the wall.

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BUILDING A DRY-STACK STONE LANDSCAPE WALL

[STEP 7] The wall will be backfilled with small stones and gravel.

need to envision the wall as a whole and the individual pieces required to assemble it. When those pieces are not readily available, you’ll need to break the stones into shape.

In some cases, you’ll need a brick hammer to chip away projections from a stone to give it a flat surface on which to stack the following course.

Sometimes you’ll need to dig out a trench beneath the first course to fit a rock that has an uneven bottom surface. You’ll often need to split the length or width of a rock to fit your wall design. These cuts are made on-site as needed with simple hand tools (not powered blades) to maintain the natural cleft face of the rock.

The courses of stone are all laid in a 2- to 3-in. thick bed of masonry cement, applied along the rear edge of each course to keep the mortar hidden. The irregular shape of the stones leaves several gaps and voids in the wall. These voids should be filled with smaller rocks that are back-buttered with mortar and inserted to strengthen the wall and give it a more uniform appearance.

The cut-off waste pieces are often used to fill these voids, but many of these gaps require pieces shaped with the brick hammer for a tight fit.

[STEP 8] Crushed rock is applied and compacted for the sidewalk.

[STEP 9] The rock bed is leveled for the sidewalk pavers.

[STEP 10] Along the outer edge of the dry-stack wall, a row of pavers is mortared in place to serve as edging for the sidewalk.

[STEP 11] Freestanding dry-stack walls are built using two walls that lean against each other.

[STEP 12] Add backfill between the two walls then cap them with mortared stone.

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BUILDING A DRY-STACK STONE LANDSCAPE WALL Freestanding Dry-stack Walls A freestanding dry-stacked wall is constructed by building a double-sided sloped retaining wall where each side batters against the other, which presses the stones together and holds the wall upright.

Make sure to plan for drainage around your walls.

Shown on the left is the outlet for a drainpipe that runs beneath the stones so water can exit without pushing against the wall.

H Stone walls that retain water should be built to allow for drainage.

The drain pipe shown extends down from a dry-stack stone fire pit.

Here’s the completed project: a flexible-base paver sidewalk supported on one side by a short dry-stack stone wall.

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