Home Improvement and Repairs Spring Issue 2021

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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS

CUSTOMIZE YOUR

KITCHEN ISLAND U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95

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ISSUE #2 MARCH/APRIL 2021

HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

INSIDE THE RIGHT LUMBER FOR BACKYARD BUILDING BEST TOOLS FOR TONGUE-AND-GROOVE FLOOR INSTALLATION NEW PRODUCTS FOR THE KITCHEN AND BATHROOM STEP BY STEP: REPLACE A LIGHT FIXTURE

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TM

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32 COVER FEATURE

KITCHEN ISLAND CUSTOMIZED

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PUT YOUR PERSONAL STAMP ON THE FOCAL POINT OF YOUR KITCHEN

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER START SMART • VIRTUAL CONSTRUCTION CONVENTIONS FACE TECH CHALLENGES • NEW PRODUCTS FOR THE KITCHEN AND BATHROOM • “BACKYARDING” TREND IS HERE TO STAY • ASK MATT • LUMBER PRICES CAUSE STICKER SHOCK TOOL TECH TOOL RECS FOR T&G FLOORS GOOD WOOD FOR THE GREAT OUTDOORS THE RIGHT LUMBER FOR BACKYARD BUILDING STEP-BY-STEP HANDBOOK REPLACE A LIGHT FIXTURE

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SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

1 2 EASY

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MODERATE

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KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL: LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Spring Issue

SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

HARD

PRO

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER

As I write this letter on a sunny afternoon, birds are chirping outside my window.

The days have grown longer and warmer, and I’m feeling that familiar sense of renewal that comes with every spring. And this year, there’s something more.

After spending such a long time under the dark cloud of the pandemic, we’re now seeing the case numbers trend downward.

Vaccines are available. The Southern states are open for business, and I expect the Northern states soon to follow their lead. Mask mandates are being lifted; and despite where you stand on that thorny issue, I’d rather choose to wear a mask than have someone else tell me what to do.

The clouds are finally lifting.

Lately, I’ve read reports on home-design trends which suggest the open-floor design so popular pre-pandemic is now out of style.

This is attributed to lifestyle

PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com

and work changes during the lockdown, with children learning from home and parents telecommuting, resulting in a need to partition rooms for quiet space.

I suppose that makes sense for folks who will continue to work

I’M FEELING THAT FAMILIAR SENSE OF RENEWAL THAT COMES WITH EVERY SPRING. AND THIS YEAR, THERE’S SOMETHING MORE.

ADVISORY BOARD JEFF WINKLE CHIP LOVELADY JIM BUTTERS KATHY ZIPRIK MARK CLEMENT ROB ROBILLARD LARRY CLEMENT

from home, but my kids are again attending school in person and our local businesses are back in action. Maybe it’s time to reevaluate those home trends for the future.

Around our way, everyone’s spirits are on the upswing with a fresh tinge of optimism and high hopes to return to the good old days of normal life. I feel the same and I expect we’ll make it there.

This has always been a strong country of resilient people built by those of us with a can-do attitude, and that’s what will carry us through the end of this crisis.

And the end can’t get here fast enough.

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS CARTER SWIFT TOM MATTHEWS COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER

CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com

AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO

Home Improvement & Repairs is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.

PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC

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STARTSMART 1

VIRTUAL CONSTRUCTION CONVENTIONS FACE TECH CHALLENGES

NEW PRODUCTS FOR THE KITCHEN AND BATHROOM 1

In February, two major construction-related virtual events suffered technical difficulties that interfered with attendee access to the online exhibits. Although the educational sessions at both IBSx (International Builders’ Show) and KBISvirtual (Kitchen & Bath Industry Show) went ahead as scheduled, the product introductions were offline, prompting show officials to offer refunds to the attendees.

Although the technical problems impeded press coverage of the new products, HIR worked behind the scenes to get the scoop on some of the latest rollouts for the kitchen and bath.

WETWALL WALL PANEL SYSTEM

MFG: WilsonArt WEB: www.wetwall.com INFO: Instead of using tile and grout when water is ever-present, the Wetwall Water-Proof Wall Panel System from WilsonArt provides a single panel that’s waterproof. It’s a tongue-and-groove product that is easy to work with and can be installed without any special tooling in as little as 2.5 hours. Once it’s in, it requires little effort to maintain because it's groutfree. Ideal for bathrooms and showers, this patented wall system withstands daily use and is available in an array of nature-inspired "on trend" designs.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART

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CIA BATHROOM FAUCET WITH MOTIONSENSE WAVE

MFG: Moen WEB: www.moen.com INFO: Combining hands-free technology with a beautiful design, Moen’s first-ever touchless bathroom faucet features a single sensor on the faucet base in line with the handle to provide hands-free control, so users can turn water on and off exactly when they need it with just the wave of a hand. This innovation eliminates the need to touch the bathroom faucet when washing hands, helping to reduce the spread of germs, while also providing the striking style consumers prefer.

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SIDEKICK SHOWER SYSTEM

MFG: Peerless WEB: www.peerlessfaucet.com INFO: Get more versatility from your shower with the SideKick Shower System, which is simple to install on an existing shower arm and comes with special attachments for cleaning your pet, baby and the shower itself. It also has a pause button, which allows the user to lather or change position without worry of water waste. The shower head features five spray patterns and includes a cleaning-pad attachment, a pet attachment with “fingers” to scrub dirty pet fur, plus a suction-cup solution for flexible mounting. Quickly re-dock the wand while sitting or kneeling outside of the tub, keeping it out of dirty water.

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BROAN-NUTONE SURFACESHIELD VENT FANS

MFG: Broan-NuTone WEB: www.broan-nutone.com INFO: Winner of an IBSx Platinum New Product Award, the Broan-NuTone SurfaceShield bathroom vent fans are designed to alleviate mold and mildew buildup in bathrooms using Vyv patented LED technology designed for hands-free disinfection. The antimicrobial light technology reduces bacteria, fungi and mold, and it’s coupled with the powerful and quiet 110 CFM Roomside series bathroom ventilation fan to remove pollutants from the air in the room. The 110 CFM fan runs at a whisper quiet 1.0 sones, so you’ll hardly notice it’s there.

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PFISTER NORDEN AND PORT HAVEN FAUCETS

MFG: Pfister WEB: www.pfisterfaucets.com INFO: Two new pull-down kitchen faucets from Pfister— the Norden and the Port Haven models—feature three state-of-the-art features. The MagnePfit magnetic docking feature uses powerful magnets to keep the spray head firmly secured to the spout in conjunction with a weight located on the hose to provide quick and effortless retraction. To help align the spray head after each use, Auto-Align technology utilizes threaded grooves subtly located at the base of the spray head that work with corresponding grooves inside the spout to re-orient the head for perfect positioning. The third feature is Pfister’s HydroBlade high-pressure spray pattern engineered to blast away hard-to-clean messes with ease.

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STARTSMART

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YOUR FAVORITE NON-SCRATCH SCRAPER TOOL JUST GOT ®

WIDER! Save Time and Effort When Cleaning Small Surfaces, Edges & Grooves!

ORIGINAL MODEL AND NEW WIDE BLADE FEATURES: ROUNDED TIPS—BETTER SCRAPER THAN A FINGERNAIL FLAT-EDGED TIPS—WON’T SCRATCH LIKE A SCREWDRIVER POINTED TIPS—BETTER THAN A TOOTHPICK FOR CLEANING GROOVES AND CORNERS

Remove stickers, tape,caulk, putty, grime & more!

Available in original 2-packs, 5-packs and new wide blade 3-packs

Find us at www.scrigit-scraper.com, local hardware stores, and Amazon!

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Spring Issue

CORIAN ENDURA

MFG: DuPont WEB: www.endura.corian.com INFO: How’d you like a countertop made of a high-performance porcelain? The new Corian Endura product is made from a recipe of natural minerals compressed together under extreme pressure and then heated at high temperature in a similar way to how nature forges a diamond. The resulting material is a densely packed mass characterized by its durability and beauty. HIR attended an online demonstration, where Endura passed a scratch test, wiped clean after being marked with a Sharpie, and withstood high temperatures from the direct flame of a butane torch. Impressive! Corian Endura is comparable to the price of nicer quartz. It’s not a DIY product and will need to be fabricated by a certified Corian fabricator, but anyone who wants a countertop with a high-end look and high-end performance should check out this new material.

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SUPERSTEAM+ BUILT-IN WALL OVEN

MFG: Sharp WEB: shop.sharpusa.com INFO: The Sharp SuperSteam+ Built-in Oven is a hybrid convection oven that uses heat and water to cook. It has five high-performance cooking modes including Steam, Steam Bake, Convection Bake, Super Steam Grill, and Super Steam Roast. The combination of superheated steam and conventional, radiant heat in cooking modes is designed so food will be crispy and browned on the outside, moist on the inside. This built-in-ready 24-in. oven can be installed in a wall, under the counter or kitchen island with no additional trim kit needed. Download the Sharp SuperSteam+ app and connect to your home network to enable remote control operation of common features, like preheating.

GE ULTRAFRESH FRONT LOAD WASHERS

MFG: GE WEB: www.geappliances.com INFO: Since 46 percent people with a front-loading laundry washer complain of a mold/mildew odor, and 1 out of 2 owners switch back to a top-loader, something had to be done. To eliminate the odor, the new GE front-loading machines incorporate an enhanced drain, a new air venting and circulation system, plus Microban technology. GE Appliances developed a wider gasket that is angled to allow water to fully drain after the wash cycle. Plus, the new UltraFresh Vent System with OdorBlock creates a revolutionary new airflow at the touch of a button. After the wash cycle, the unit pulls in and circulates fresh air, removing moisture from the door, gasket and basket. GE tops off the UltraFresh odor-fighting features with exclusive Microban technology built into the gasket, dispenser and pump during manufacturing to help prevent the growth of odor-causing bacteria in parts of the washer where moisture could linger.

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STARTSMART

© Pavestone

“BACKYARDING” TREND IS HERE TO STAY “BACKYARDING” IS A GROWING TREND TO MOVE MANY INDOOR ACTIVITIES—FROM WORKING IN AN OFFICE OR CLASSROOM TO DINING AND RECREATION—TO THE GREAT OUTDOORS. Under pandemic conditions, yards and other managed landscapes became a safe haven for social gatherings, working, studying, playing, exercising and relaxing.

“Your own backyard is nearly limitless with possibilities, and homeowners got really creative as they expanded and enjoyed their yards over the last year,” says Kris Kiser, President & CEO of the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI) and the TurfMutt Foundation. “We predict, long after the

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COVID-19 pandemic passes, our yards will become an even greater part of our lives. The notion of ‘backyarding’ is here to stay.”

Here are some ways to bring more “backyarding” into your life: 1. Invest in your yard. Design your dream lawn and garden for a purpose, not just for aesthetics. Do you have kids and pets who need a place to play? Will

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> you host gatherings? Do you need a place for rest and relaxation and/or games and recreation?

2. Get the whole family involved. Ask other members of the household to help identify ways to move indoor life to the great outdoors.

Can you take office calls and video meetings to the patio or porch? Can your kids do their online learning outdoors? How often can you take dining outside?

3. Plant something—as early as you can.

(Or plant more). Adding trees, bushes, grass and flowering plants is a good yard investment, but they often take time to grow. Plant as early as recommended so you can enjoy the benefits faster. Just remember “right plant, right place.”

Location, maintenance, sunlight and watering needs should all be considered, as well as your climate zone.

4. Stretch winter-weary muscles. Let off some steam by mowing the grass, trimming the hedges, or edging the lawn. Working in the yard helps living landscapes look better and stay healthy, and provides you a productive way to get outdoor exercise.

5. Plan a staycation. A makeshift “resort” or vacation spot could be just out your back door.

Construct a fire pit to have a “campfire” or a stonebuilt grilling area to host a barbecue.

6. “Level up” nature care. Add flowering plants, trees and shrubs to give wildlife and pollinators food and shelter. Your yard is part of the larger ecosystem, so check your climate zone for landscaping options that support the birds, bees, butterflies and other wildlife in your area.

You’ll soon be observing the wildlife and nature from your backyard.

Research shows spending time in nature– which starts in your backyard–is good for reducing stress, boosting heart health, boosting Vitamin D levels, and enhancing memory. Learn more at TurfMutt.com.

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STARTSMART ASK MATT

QUESTION: How do I unclog a bathroom sink?

ANSWER: To fight a sink clog, most folks start by using a simple cup-shaped bathroom plunger. Pick a plunger with a large enough suction cup to completely cover the drain and create an airtight seal against the surrounding sink. Seal off any other outlets, such as the overflow drain in sinks, to create a vacuum, then fill the sink with enough water to cover the suction area. Push out any trapped air beneath the cup, then give the plunger 15 to 20 vigorous up-and-down pumping strokes to jolt loose the clog. This may take 3 to 5 times to work.

If that doesn’t unclog the problem, you can remove the drain cover which closes the drain. To do this, first place a bucket beneath the sink to catch water. The drain cover opens and closes using a ball-andsocket lift lever at the back of the sink’s drain pipe. Unscrew and remove the retaining nut that holds the “ball” of the lever to the socket. This should allow you to slide the lever rod out of the keyhole on the bottom of the drain cover. You should then be able to pull the drain cover freely out of the sink drain, which is often what traps hair, objects and other debris in the drain. Use a wire coat hanger and hot water to clear out the drain pipe and thoroughly wash the drain cover before replacement.

If this still doesn’t work, you can use a pipe wrench to remove the P-trap beneath the sink, in which a foreign object may have gotten trapped in the turn of the pipe.

You can also run a plumbing snake into the drain pipe past the P-trap to rout out clogs further down the line.

Need more info? Visit Matt’s blog at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com.

NEWSWIRE LUMBER-PRICE STICKER SHOCK

According to the National Association of Home Builders, lumber prices have skyrocketed more than 180% since last spring, and this price spike has caused the price of an average new single-family home to increase by $24,386 since April 17, 2020. Similarly, the market value of the average new multifamily home has increased by $8,998 over the same period due to the surge in lumber prices.

The latest Random Lengths prices as of mid-February show the price of framing lumber topped $975 per thousand board feet — a 180% increase since last April when the price was roughly $350 per thousand board feet.

High demand and low lumber supply are the result of people deciding en masse to move from multi-family city housing to single family homes in the suburbs, all while existing homeowners work to improve their dwellings. According a report from CNBC, “Strong housing demand, lowinterest rates, and a booming home remodeling continue to push prices higher. At some point, however, the basic reality of affordability should at least slow some of the growth.” H

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TOOL TECH

By Matt Weber

TOOL RECS FOR T&G FLOORS

Whether you’re an ambitious DIY’er or a pro on the go, here are some handy tool recommendations to make your next tongue-and-groove floor installation go down more smoothly.

FLOORING SAW With a dedicated flooring saw, save time and energy by cutting boards right where you install them, rather than cycling back and forth between the floor and your sawhorses each time you need to resize a board. When flooring meets the walls of a room, the boards generally have to be cross-cut or ripped to width. A portable flooring saw uses a circular blade that glides along dual rails above an integrated work surface to make fence-guided rips with the accuracy of a table saw. Use the saw’s angle gauge to make straight or diagonal cuts with the accuracy of a miter saw. Attach a shop-vac hose to the dust port while cutting to collect sawdust for a tidy work environment.

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The HIR team uses a Skil Flooring Saw, which features a high-RPM, 7-amp motor, similar to a grinder motor that turns in the neighborhood of 11,000 RPM to achieve fine cuts with a small 4-3/8-in. diameter blade. The saw comes in a small, lightweight package, is easy to carry, and cuts flooring up to 3/4-in. thick.

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TOOL TECH BUZZ CUTTER “Buzz Cutter” is a pet name the HIR team has given to the awkwardly termed “oscillating multi-tool,” which has been given a different label by every manufacturer. Bosch has the Multi-X, Rockwell calls it the Sonicrafter, Dremel dubs theirs the Multi-Max, but they’re all Buzz Cutters to us.

Available in both corded and cordless versions, these tools use high-speed oscillation rather than a rotating or reciprocating blade, which enables the various accessory blades to scrape, sand, plunge-cut, flush-cut and more. The oscillating action allows the user to perform either the fine, detail work of a jigsaw or to tackle more aggressive floorinstallation applications.

One of the unintended consequences of installing a new floor, for example, is the increased height of the finished surface, which often won’t fit beneath existing door casings. A buzz cutter equipped with a flushcutting wood blade makes it easy to undercut the casing so the flooring will fit beneath the trim. These multifunction tools can be equipped with a variety of different accessories for cutting off pipe, removing grout, making electrical cutouts and much more.

FINISH NAILER For securing the first and last few rows of nail-down T&G flooring, a 16-gauge finish nailer provides more working room against walls and a better line of sight than a stand-up tool. The 16-gauge nails leave a smaller, less visible hole when face-nailing. Or, use the tool to blind-nail the boards at a 45-deg. angle through the pocket of the tongues, which conceals the fasteners within the joint.

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TOOL RECS FOR T&G FLOORS

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FLOORING STAPLER Once you’ve installed the first few rows of nail-down T&G flooring, you’ll have enough clearance to employ the tool of choice for most professional flooring installers—a pneumatic flooring stapler (usually available to DIY’ers at rental outlets).

Powered by an air compressor, these mallet-actuated fastening tools secure the joints with a rock-solid connection using 14to 16-gauge wire staples up to 2 in. long. A quality floor stapler is a worthwhile investment for a flooring professional, and a recommended rental item for DIY installers because of the time and labor saved, when compared to hand-nailing.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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TOOL TECH WE LIKE THE DESIGN OF THE BULLET TOOLS’ HEAVY DUTY PULL BAR it no longer catches the hammer blows, which renders the pull bar useless. Furthermore, with shorter pull bars, the close proximity of the tab to the wall can make it difficult to swing the hammer. That’s why we like the design of the Bullet Tools’ Heavy Duty Pull Bar. It has a steel block that provides a heavy-duty hammer contact point that doesn't absorb your strike. It’s 17 inches long for better reach and clearance, and the fully felted bottom protects your new flooring.

It even has a beveled end to pry into tight spaces.

HEAVY-DUTY PULL BAR To pull tongue-and-groove boards away from a wall when there’s no clearance to use a hammer and tapping block, most installers use a pull bar. The problem with a cheap S-shaped pull bar is that over time, all the hammer strikes can bend the tab outward so

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CONTOUR GAUGE Need to make a complicated cut in a piece of flooring? You can make a paper template, or maybe map it by taking multiple measurements … or you can save time by using a contour gauge. A contour gauge is designed to duplicate any shape instantly. This profile gauge creates an instant template for curved and odd shaped profiles, which you can trace onto the workpiece to guide the cut. Similar to a hair comb, the tool (also known as a profile comb) features a row of long, thin, moveable teeth and a perpendicular housing that holds them in place as they take an impression of the surface. A contour gauge

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is ideal for fitting flooring around moldings, copying curves, and a variety of other contourmatching jobs. Two 10-in. gauges can be combined to measure and duplicate larger shapes.

The tool fits around most common pipes and round columns and allows you to easily copy shapes to tile, laminate, engineered wood, solid wood and vinyl flooring to precisely cut flooring to match objects.

The 833 Plastic Contour Gauge from General Tools features 3-in. deep fingers that measure profiles up to 1-1/4 inch. Rather than utilizing the thin metal pins (which tended to dislodge) of old-fashioned gauges, the new model features tough, durable plastic that will not harm the original finish of the shape being duplicated.

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TOOL RECS FOR T&G FLOORS

of flooring, such as when you need to push a board away from a wall to close a tongue-andgroove joint, Bessey offers the Spacer PVA. This adjustable tool works like a clamp in reverse to spread the space between the wall and flooring, pushing the boards together.

To tighten or hold the installation across several rows of adjoining floor boards, the Bessey SVH Flooring and Clamping System extends the reach of the clamping action by incorporating a band of high-strength polyester between two durable clamping heads. The SVH400 offers 157 inches of reach, while the SVH400XL has a 300-in. clamping capacity. This tool is a big help for holding stubborn boards in position while you fasten them in place.

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BESSEY FLOORING TOOLS A few years ago, Bessey Tools introduced some handy items that have becomes staples in the HIR flooring toolkit. For lateral support

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THE RIGHT LUMBER FOR BACKYARD BUILDING

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Spring Issue

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GOOD WOOD FOR THE GREAT OUTDOORS

By Tom Matthews Natural wood is the most widely used material for building outdoor structures because it’s traditionally affordable, widely available and exceptionally versatile. Pro builders know that not all wood is equal, however, and homeowners planning an outdoor project should learn what to expect from the various grades and species.

s

TREATED LUMBER When lumber prices are up, treated wood still remains one of the most economically priced materials for exterior projects. If you want to use real wood for an outdoor project and expect it to withstand termites and fungal decay, your principal choices are either a naturally durable wood (such as cedar or cypress) or wood pressure-treated with preservative. Even when composite or synthetic materials are specified for decking or handrails, they’re usually supported by a strong framework of treated lumber made of spruce, pine or fir. More than 80 percent of all U.S. decks are built entirely or partially with preserved wood.

Even when composite or synthetic materials are specified for decking or handrails, they’re usually supported by a strong framework of pressure-treated lumber made of spruce, pine or fir.

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THE RIGHT LUMBER FOR BACKYARD BUILDING

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Pre-colored lumber? That’s right. Now, you can skip the wood stain by building with treated lumber that has pigment driven deep into the wood grain during the preservation process.

Photo © Prowood Lumber.

The lumber grade of treated wood is important to consider for your next project. Grades are assigned at the sawmill where the logs are cut, and the lumber is primarily graded on the strength of the board. For the most part, lumber is available in three tiers of quality: Good, Better, and Best.

Good–Number 1 and Number 2 grades are commonly sold at local lumberyards. They offer good strength ratings but come with imperfections such as large knots, rounded bark edges,

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and some bowing or twisting. No. 1 will have fewer imperfections than No. 2. These grades are ideal for a cost-conscious DIY homeowner.

Better–A bit more expensive, the Prime grade of Number 1 and Number 2 lumber features the same strength properties, but are listed as Prime based on appearance (regarding the amount of bark on the edges or the number of knots). This lumber is a bit more expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Best–To guarantee the most beauty for your back yard, ask you lumber supplier for C & Better or Select Structural grade products, which offer the strongest lumber properties and better appearance. The boards should have no bark on the edges and only a few small knots.

KDAT—The best treated lumber grades are also available in kiln-dried options, which eliminate the waiting period typically required before painting or staining for “wet” lumber.

KDAT (kiln-dried after treatment) lumber is a high-grade product that offers a number of benefits. Treatment companies such as Great Southern Wood Preserving (the makers of Yellawood) even back their KDAT lumber with a lifetime warranty. The kiln-drying process reduces the lumber’s natural tendency to shrink, cup and warp, and it weighs less than freshly treated lumber. KDAT products are easier to handle, cut and install, have greater strength, more stiffness and increased holding power. Plus, the lumber is ready to be painted, stained or sealed immediately.

Pre-colored treated wood, however, is a growing trend because it offers tinting options without the need of paint or staining. For example, Prowood Lumber offers Dura Color lumber made with a color-infused preservative that allows the wood's natural grain characteristics to remain visible. Rather than relying on a topical finish or stain that may quickly fade, the Dura Color pigment is driven deep into the wood fibers so it's guaranteed to stand up to the elements for years.

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Cedar has a very low shrinkage factor and resists warping, twisting and checking, which makes it a good choice for narrow boards widths in outdoor applications such as latticework or pergola purlins.

Photo courtesy of Western Red Cedar Lumber Association.

WESTERN RED CEDAR Native to the northwestern United States and southwestern Canada, Western Red Cedar offers substantial advantages for building, finishing and long-term performance, and the only reason this species of wood isn’t more widely used is due to its availability and higher price.

The natural qualities of Western Red Cedar make it an excellent choice for outdoor projects like decks, pergolas and outdoor furniture.

Cedar is one of the lightest commercial softwoods, so it’s easy to transport and handle.

Cedar has an even, consistent grain, low density, and a low shrinkage factor superior to other coniferous woods which makes it

less likely to swell, warp, cup and twist than other soft and hardwood species. As a result, it lies flat and straight—a huge help when assembling your project.

Western Red Cedar is also pitch and resinfree so it’s ideal for accepting and holding a wide range of finishes including dark stains, bleaches, solid colors and semi-transparent finishes.

Furthermore, Western Red Cedar fibers contain natural compounds called “thujaplicins” that act as preservatives to protect against rot and insect infestation. As a result, the wood will last without the need for chemical treatments. Learn more about cedar at www.realcedar.com.

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These cabinets are built of cypress to withstand the rigors of the outdoor environment.

Photo courtesy of What Wood

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It should be no surprise that wood which grows in wet environments can naturally withstand wet environments, as seen with this outdoor shower made from cypress.

Courtesy of Bart Michaels Photography

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Spring Issue

CYPRESS Cypress contains a naturally occurring preservative oil, similar to cedar. Cypress trees generate cypressene, which makes cypress heartwood resistant to insects, decay, chemical corrosion and other damaging elements. For this reason, the wood has long been a favorite choice for long-wearing outdoor applications such as siding, decking, fence posts, docks and even railroad ties.

Cypress works well with both hand and power tools. The wood planes easily and resists warping. Although cypress is resinous, it glues well, sands easily, and can be painted or stained, offering a variety of finishing options. Its original honey-like hues can be maintained by applying a clear sealer.

Left untouched, it will weather naturally to a gray.

Most cypress trees are natives of the South and grow in the Atlantic and Gulf Coastal Plains from Delaware to Texas, as well as in the Mississippi Valley from the Louisiana Delta to southern Indiana. Learn more about cypress at www.cypressinfo.org.

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EXOTIC HARDWOODS For the high-end tastes of demanding homeowners, exotic hardwoods have taken hold in the outdoor building market. Be prepared to pay a premium price for the material, but rainforest hardwoods such as Ipe and Pau-Lope offer an unmatched level of beauty and unique character as well as hardness and durability that far exceeds conventional lumber.

These exotic hardwoods offer significant advantages to justify the high price. Ipe, for example, grows in the Brazilian rainforest,

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Known for its tight, uniform grain and warm red tones, Ipe is an exotic hardwood that sells for a premium because its beauty is coupled with low-maintenance performance that can last nearly a hundred years.

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so the trees contain natural oils and very dense tree fibers that protect it from insect infestation and the growth of mold and fungi (which lead to rot).

Ipe also exhibits remarkable heat dispersion, which makes it popular for decks because the surface won’t burn bare feet. The wood will be cool to the touch all summer long, and it’s also naturally fire resistant—a superb material in wildfire-sensitive areas.

The wood is known for a smooth, uniform texture and a very fine grain with a slight wave, noted for its warm, red tones. It’s the natural aesthetics combined with superior performance that make exotic hardwoods such premium materials. A very dense exotic species like Ipe requires very little maintenance, and with proper care the wood can last close to 100 years.

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Kits Can Save Time & Labor Interested in improving your backyard but short on free time for home improvements? Or, are you a DIY’er who has yet to acquire all the woodworking tools needed to build a pergola, garden bench or picnic table? You might consider purchasing a pre-fab kit.

With a pre-fab kit, all the cutting (including any tricky notching) will be done for you, and all the materials and hardware from the smallest screw to the largest board will be shipped to your house. Because all the prep work is done, assembling a pergola, arbor or outdoor furniture is usually a quick © Western Red Cedar Lumber job, often completed in a weekend or less.

A prefab kit eliminates errors because it’s been designed by engineers who create detailed blueprints and instructions to provide exactly the results you expect.

Sometimes prefab kits can be more expensive than building your own design. However, for detailed projects such as a pergola, by the time you source the materials, carefully compare material costs, and drive to pick them up (or pay for delivery), you’ll likely have spent more time and money than you expected.

A pre-fab kit is still someone else’s design, of course, so you’ll be limited in choices that might not precisely fit your particular parameters or suit your tastes. With a custom build, you’ll have the liberty to decide which type of wood, hardware and architectural details to use.

Your best move is to research your options and compare costs to see what designs are available as kits and which approach to assembling the project best fits your lifestyle and available work time.

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KITCHEN ISLAND

[CUSTOMIZED] PUT YOUR PERSONAL STAMP ON THE FOCAL POINT OF YOUR KITCHEN.

By Matt Weber

Building your own furniture is the perfect way to get exactly what you want for your home. From the size and shape to design and materials, custom-built items put the maker in control of every detail. Those many details, however, require a great deal of forethought and planning.

We offer some basic tips to get you started on your custom build, using this customized kitchen island as an example.

STYLE AND DESIGN The basic design of the rustic-style island shown here came from a photo my wife found at an online retailer. You’ll also find islands for sell that are more ornately trimmed and painted, islands made of metal, islands finished with tile, etc. No matter what design you choose, I recommend finding a photo that resembles your idea as closely as possible. Although I didn’t even have my first measurement, simply having a photo of the basic idea provided a simple design blueprint that I could adjust to suit my project.

As you flesh out your design, factor in all the components that will be used with the island, including any chairs, hardware or special amenities. Will your island be used for storage, seating, or both? For a simple, stationary island meant for storage, you might

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I produced these high-tech building plans by using a pencil to trace photos of an island my wife found on Etsy. I then made my own alterations to the design (adding shelf brackets, casters, etc.) and applied my own measurements.

consider beginning with a premanufactured cabinet base, then topping and trimming it to your preference. In that case, half the work will have been done for you.

My wife Shanna wanted to incorporate some barstools and wood crates that she’d already purchased. By selecting these items ahead of time, we were able to design an island to fit them, rather than face a more limited selection of barstools or crates to complement the look and size of an island that’s already been built.

To incorporate both storage and seating, our design needed to be partitioned beneath the

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tabletop to separate the seats from the shelving. After perusing ready-made kitchen islands online, Shanna came across the photo she liked, which I roughly traced on paper so I could apply my own measurements and adjustments (such as adding caster wheels, etc.). *Note that if you plan for a stationary cabinet-grade island that integrates a faucet and sink and/or a stove, then you’re no longer talking about a piece of furniture but rather a kitchen remodel which will involve several skilled trades and a building inspection.

MATERIALS The island shown is built primarily of SPF dimensional lumber I picked up at Lowe’s—the same stuff used to frame houses. As a wood lover, I like the deep swirls and high grain contrast of the Southern yellow pine and wanted to accentuate this look with a rich wood stain.

However, ours is a very bulky and heavy island that won’t be to everyone’s taste—and that’s okay because you’ll be customizing your own.

If you use dimensional lumber, I highly recommend hand-selecting your boards at the supplier, otherwise you’ll likely end up

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Knowing which seats and wood crates we wanted to incorporate helped us to design an island to fit them. Plan for ample legroom above and in front of any seating.

with a number of bowed or twisted boards that will be difficult or impossible to use.

A smaller, more ornate island might utilize a higher grade of 1x boards to reduce weight and bulk. You can also save money by constructing with finish-grade plywood, although you should plan to add edge-banding or trim strips anywhere the plywood edges will be exposed.

If you’re using wood to build the island base, you might prefer to build with hardwood rather than a softer material like pine. Whereas I fully expect our rustic island to get dented and dinged in my rough-and-tumble household, a “finer” piece of furniture should be constructed of oak or a more durable hardwood that will better withstand scratches and impact damage.

The island’s focal point will be the tabletop, and there you have a ton of options. The simplest choice would be to use a single piece of plywood cut to size, sanded and finished. For low maintenance, you can choose a natural stone such as a polished granite slab, or choose a colorful solid-surface material from brands such as Corian, Avonite, Formica, etc. Alternatively, you can find a wide range of naturalistic and artistic patterns in plastic sheet laminate,

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which you can cut to size and apply to a plywood surface with a roller and contact cement.

Tile is another island-top option, popular for the design flexibility possible with all the sizes, shapes, colors and patterns.

On this project, we went with an edge-glued wood top, but even with wood you have a number of options. This top was sanded, stained and coated with polyurethane. It could have been engraved, or surface-burned with artwork, or maybe even inlaid with decorative accents and then encased in a deep-pour epoxy. If you’re going for a unique look, the top is a prime place to show off your customization.

Carefully plan how you’ll make the wood joints, because you have many options.

I made leg assemblies using 2x4 cross-rails notched into 4x4 legs and fastened with wood glue and 3-in. screws driven from the non-visible side of the boards (once assembled).

A strong wood glue such as Titebond will arrest any movement of the joints and should be used at all critical connections.

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SIZE First thing to consider is what size island will fit the living space, and this will vary greatly from home to home. An island usually needs plenty of walkway and working space around all sides within the room, so determine the shape of the island’s footprint (often rectangular) and its measurements of width and length. It might help to tape the shape onto the floor as a visual guide while you make adjustments to decide the island’s maximum allowable size. Do you plan to incorporate prebuilt drawers (or crates, like we did)? If so, factor in the space required

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to house the drawers or doors, and the space to use them while they’re open.

Also, keep in mind the size of any doorways the island will need to pass through. The top of our island is too large to fit through a standard doorway, but we constructed it to detach from the base with a few screws should we ever need to move it to a new location.

Next, determine the height, and make it your own. Are you a tall person? Maybe you should build your island to match. A decorative island that is meant primarily for display and/or storage might only be as large as a bathroom vanity and the same height as your kitchen counter or

table. If so, just measure your table and build the island to match.

Any island that will incorporate seating will need enough height to accommodate the seats, and this is when it’s nice to have those items on hand, because chairs and barstools vary in size. For example, the seat of Shanna’s barstools measured 30 inches from the floor.

I decided to leave 8-1/2 in. of space between the seat and the bottom of the tabletop so people could comfortably fit their legs beneath

it. I also had to factor in the thickness of my 2x4 top (3-1/2 inches). So, I determined my island height by adding 30 + 8.5 + 3.5 = 42 inches.

You can plug in your own figures and follow the same formula.

Seating will also affect the overall length of the island, because you’ll need to leave adequate elbow room between side-by-side seats. Furthermore, if your island will incorporate a partition beneath the top, then you have to leave room for ample knee space in front of the seats.

Sketch a rough diagram of your island design and label the measurements and materials as you determine them. Once you know your limitations (maximum height, width and depth) and factor in your requirements (knee space, storage space), you can “reverseengineer” the design to finalize your plan. As a simplistic example, an island 42 in. high and supported by four table-style legs will require four boards roughly 4 feet long. If you want to build the legs of 4x4 material, which is sold in 8-ft. lengths, then you’ll require two 8-ft.

4x4s to make the four legs. Examine all the island’s building components and apply your own measurements to determine your cut list and necessary materials.

USE A BUILDING TEMPLATE My design included 2x4 trim which framed the outer edge of the island. I screwed together the rectangular frame and used it as a building template, which guided the size and positioning of many of the components within. It also helped to square up the pieces and provide a clamping surface during assembly.

Although your design might not include such a frame, I found it to be so useful during construction that you might want to cobble together your own from scrap lumber to match the outside dimensions of your island base.

(Smaller boards than 2x lumber could be used to reduce the template’s weight.)

Another bonus from using the template: It provides a real-world representation of your island. This was particularly useful when I moved the frame into the kitchen, where I realized it was too large to my liking. By discovering this prior to final assembly, I was able to take the

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I assembled the 2x4 frame that wraps the island top and used it as a template throughout the project.

I moved it with the leg assemblies into the kitchen where I realized the island was too long. I shortened the template, reassembled it, then used it as a clamping surface to square up the legs and take final measurements for the rest of the island components. frame apart, cut it shorter by nearly 4 inches, then rebuild it in order to “shrink” my island design.

PRE-FINISH THE PIECES This suggestion may not to pertain to all designs, but I recommend you pre-finish the building components before final assembly.

To that end, I first cut all the dimensional lumber lengthwise on a table saw to rip off the rounded edges and provide a crisper, more “furniture-grade” look to the boards.

I then thoroughly sanded all sides in the direction of the woodgrain using progressively finer abrasives. After removing all dust with

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a tack cloth, I applied a dark Jacobian-toned wood stained, which I let sit for a few minutes before wiping away with lint-free rags.

There is no point in wasting time or product on surfaces that won’t be visible after the island’s completion. However, for stain-grade projects, I do recommend applying colorant along the inside edges of miters, butt joints, and other mating surfaces, which will help conceal the seam between the wood pieces.

Pre-applying the stain makes it easier to access all the edges and surfaces that need to be treated. Even for paint-grade projects, you might find it easier to apply primer or a first paint coat before assembly, then follow up with

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Explore the Countless Options You’ll find a million ways to build a kitchen island. To save yourself some work, consider buying a pre-built cabinet base (or two) and adding your own top and trim package to complete the project.

If you’re more into interior décor than heavy-duty construction, you might even prefer a pre-made island (even a used antique) which you simply decorate with artistic patterns, paint, or ornamental trim.

a touchup coat after the island has been built. This preparatory step also reduces the likelihood of runs and product buildup in tight corners, which can detract from the overall appearance of the island.

WOOD JOINTS Although options abound for your island’s design, wood is the most widely used material for the base of the island, and wood joints must be strong to withstand daily wear and tear. To arrest movement and add durability, use a high-quality wood glue in addition to mechanical fastening at all joints throughout the leg and/or support assemblies, including the connections where the legs meet the island top. Any weight placed on the island as well as any movement from people preparing food or leaning against the edge will stress the joints, and the connections will separate over time if not built properly.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Spring Issue

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PUT YOUR PERSONAL STAMP ON THE FOCAL POINT OF YOUR KITCHEN

The 2x6 shelves were screwed in place to bridge the leg assemblies. I then turned the entire assembly upside-down, which allowed me to align the top of the plywood partition with the tops of the leg assemblies (on the floor). I screwed the partition to the backs of the shelves and added two metal shelf brackets beneath the center shelf to support its span. I attached wood blocks to the ends of the legs so I could fasten the casters without screwing into the wood’s endgrain. I then supported the bottom shelf by adding a fifth hidden caster beneath its center, and I attached 2x4 trim blocks to the partition to hide the plywood edges.

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I made the top from edge-glued 1x6 fastened with pocket screws. To strengthen the top, I laminated 3/4” plywood blocking on the underside to bridge the edgejoints. I also fastened 3/4” strips beneath the edges of the top. The top was screwed in place from beneath the plywood. Finally, I stained and finished the 2x4 template and fastened it as trim around the top.

Traditional wood joints range from half-lap joints and mortise-and-tenons to dadoes and dovetails. A DIY’er might find it easier to use quality wood screws or even carriage bolts in conjunction with a strong adhesive at the joints.

Consider the look of the fasteners when planning your project. To hide screws or nails, plan to drive them from inside the island into the back sides of the visible boards. Finish nails can be set and concealed with wood putty for paint-grade projects. To hide fastener heads on stain-grade projects, consider countersinking them then covering with wood plugs.

You can also strengthen wood joints by using dowels or biscuits for a mechanical connection that is completely concealed inside the joint.

Pocket screws might present an easier option for less experienced woodworkers, because

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they can be driven at an angle across the joints using an inexpensive pocket-hole jig to create strong, glue-strengthened connections.

For visible fasteners, you might prefer painted screws or bolts to match decorative hardware on your project. On stained wood, black-painted hardware is a popular option which you can order factory-finished, or paint the pieces yourself.

SUPPORT THE HORIZONTAL SPANS A common downfall of a kitchen island is a poorly supported shelf that bows or sags beneath the weight of whatever it carries.

This problem is typical of cheaply built

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store-bought islands, which are often made of fiberboard then overloaded with stuff by the homeowner.

Flat surfaces such as shelves and island tops must be built to support the weight of anything they carry, and the more area the surface spans, the stronger the shelf must be to avoid sagging.

Several factors are at play when designing support for these surfaces. For flat, horizontal surfaces, I recommend material at least 3/4 inch thick. The thicker the material, the greater length it can span without support.

A 32-in. span for a 3/4-in. plywood shelf is pushing the limits for heavier objects, however you have several options to strengthen a shelf

to handle the span. One solution might be to laminate two layers of 3/4-in. ply and add 1-1/2-in. shelf nosing. Another option is the addition of cleats supporting the bottom edges of the shelf, which can add rigidity.

Anywhere you can add structural support from below, such as a right-angle shelf bracket, will divide the span and transfer its load, in effect strengthening the shelf.

On our project, the island had a span of about 78 inches, and I utilized three methods to support the flat surfaces.

Island top—Since the top was made of edge-joined 1x boards, I strengthened it by laminating 3/4-in. plywood beneath it and

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You can conceal fasteners in a number of ways, incorporate decorative hardware, or even paint visible fastener heads yourself.

wheel that halves its span by transferring the load to the floor.

also used the top edge of the island’s vertical plywood partition to provide additional support.

Middle shelf—I supported the middle shelf with two metal shelf brackets screwed into the plywood partition, which was in turn fastened to the leg assemblies to transfer the load to the floor.

Bottom shelf—Hidden beneath the center of the bottom shelf is a fifth caster

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FINISHING UP I applied several coats of polyurethane to the top for a glossy, protective surface. The end result was a big, handsome, mobile island custom-built to my wife’s specifications.

She was happy, so I was too. H

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REPLACE A LIGHT FIXTURE

By Matt Weber Here are the basic steps to replace a flushmount light fixture on a ceiling, using standard tools almost any DIY homeowner will have in their toolbox. Why pay an electrician for simple upgrades you can do yourself?

First step is to turn off the light fixture’s power at the breaker box by flipping a circuit breaker or unscrewing a fuse. Use a voltage tester to make sure the power is off.

Disassemble the old light fixture. This task varies based on the fixture design but is rarely complicated. It can require removing a retaining nut, the fixture glass, and the mounting screws that hold the electrical box to the ceiling.

Many such components and fasteners unthread by hand.

In some cases, you might need a screwdriver or wrench. In the example shown in Step 3, after

[STEP 1]

[STEP 2]

removing the hex nut from the threaded rod, the glass feature of the old light slides right off the fixture.

Next, remove the canopy (AKA box cover). It is common to find two screws in slotted holes holding the canopy to the mounting strip of the electrical box. Loosen the screws enough to turn the canopy so the large holes in the slots align with the screw heads, allowing you to lower the canopy.

With the canopy out the way, the wires are exposed, and you can see how you'll need to make the electrical connections when installing the new fixture. This will also reveal any discoloration in the ceiling that might need your attention later.

Disconnect the wiring by unscrewing the wire nuts and untwisting the wire pairs.

Remove the two screws that fasten the metal mounting strap and remove the strap from the electrical box. Replace it with the one

[STEP 3]

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[STEP 4]

[STEP 5]

[STEP 6]

[STEP 7]

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Spring Issue

included with the new light, which will be shaped to fit the fixture.

Ceiling fixtures vary greatly in style and construction, and so do the related components and the assembly process. The lighting manufacturer will include assembly instructions for the model, and you usually only need to use a screwdriver and wire strippers to complete the job.

Strip 3/4-in. insulation from the end of each wire of the new fixture.

Match the fixture wires to the supply wires by matching insulation color (white wires to white wires; black to black; green insulation or bare wire indicates a ground wire). Twist the exposed ends of the wires together clockwise, securing them with a UL-listed wire nut. Ground wires can be connected to a ground screw on the junction box or joined to the supply ground using a wire nut.

Install a light bulb, turn on the breaker, then flip the light switch to test the connection before installing the fixture. If it won’t light up, you probably have a loose connection. Once the light functions, protect connections by wrapping electrician’s tape around the wire nuts. Tuck the wires and wire nuts into the electrical box and out of the way.

It might be necessary to install a threaded rod into the mounting strap before installing the canopy.

On the model shown, however, the canopy makes use of a wider threaded collar integrated into the canopy, so no rod was used.

For this light, the next step is to remove the decorative screw caps, slip the canopy over threaded fasteners that extend down from the strap, then twist back on the screw caps. Very simple.

The glass feature will typically install over a threaded rod or collar, which will be held in place by a nut.

On this fixture, the nut that fastens the glass feature is a decorative component of the light.

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REPLACE A LIGHT FIXTURE

For first-timers, it’s wise to have all your work professionally inspected when you’re done with installation.

DON'T FORGET TO USE THE RIGHT BULB When purchasing a lighting fixture, check its maximum wattage. A bulb with more wattage than necessary can present a fire hazard from the excess heat.

Wattage indicates the power a bulb consumes—not the light that it generates, measured in lumens.

If you’re getting excess light from the bulb, use a lower-lumen bulb.

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[STEP 10]

[STEP 11]

[STEP 12]

[STEP 13]

[FINAL]

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