Home Improvement And Repairs Summer 2021

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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS

STAY ON TRACK INSTALLING BARN DOOR HARDWARE

U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95

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ISSUE #3 MAY/JUNE 2021

HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

INSIDE TOOLS FOR YOUR TOOLBOX CONSTRUCTION TIPS TO BUILD A PATIO COVER BUILD FLOATING SHELVES WITH A TABLE SAW STEP BY STEP: INSTALL A TOILET

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TM

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Last-Deck

THE LAST DECK YOU WILL EVER NEED

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last-deck requires no staining or sealing, just mild soap and

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options allowing you to design your

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300 series easily pop up and snap back down!

pat# 9,803,376

www.lastdeck.com information@lastdeck.com toll free: 866-527-8332

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INSIDE: 06 09

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18 COVER FEATURE

STAY ON TRACK

INSTALLING THE TRACK AND HANGER HARDWARE FOR AN INTERIOR BARN DOOR

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER START SMART • 9 TOOLS FOR YOUR TOOLBOX • MAKITA LAUNCHES OVER 50 CORDLESS TOOLS WITH XGT SYSTEM • HOME DEPOT EXPERIENCED A 20% INCREASE IN SALES IN 2020 • DOUBLE-STUD WALLS GAINING GROUND IN COLD CLIMATES • ASK MATT RAISE THE ROOF CONSTRUCTION TIPS TO BUILD A PATIO COVER AMAZE YOUR FRIENDS WITH FLOATING SHELVES! THESE SHELVES DEFY GRAVITY, AND YOU CAN BUILD THEM WITH A TABLE SAW STEP-BY-STEP HANDBOOK INSTALL A TOILET IN 12 STEPS

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SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

1 2 EASY

04

MODERATE

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KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL: LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Summer Issue

SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

HARD

PRO

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER

A labor shortage has been reported from coast to coast as one of the persistent headwinds now facing the U.S. From restaurants and retail to construction and manufacturing, signs declaring "Now Hiring" hang outside businesses almost everywhere you look.

There are a lot reasons for economic optimism as the country moves beyond mandatory mask policies and other pandemic restrictions. For those eager to earn an honest living, opportunity abounds in the skilled trades right now.

Although millions of Americans continue to search for employment, the number of skilled labor jobs in the U.S. significantly exceeds the supply of workers qualified to fill them. A recent analysis by PeopleReady’s skilled trades division found that the most in-demand opportunities remain unfilled for a month, on average.

What might explain the labor shortfall? Chalk it up to a lack of respect for vocational education

PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com

that has permeated parts of the American culture over the last several decades, when certain sectors of society placed more importance on poetry majors than plumbing apprentices. The stubborn job market, however, maintains a different perspective, and it turns out that poets aren’t in such hot demand in 2021.

I have nothing against college or poets (I was an English major, so spare me the complaint letters), but the truth is that skilled trades offer steady, well-paying jobs that hold a bright future, even in an unpredictable economic climate.

The cost of education is another consideration. Midwest Technical Institute reports that, while the average cost for a four-year college degree is listed at $9,410 per year, most graduates end up paying around $127,000 for their degree, and at least 20 percent graduate with more than $50,000 in debt.

Compare that to the average cost of attending a trade school, which is $5K-$15K and takes between three and 18 months to complete.

ADVISORY BOARD JEFF WINKLE CHIP LOVELADY JIM BUTTERS KATHY ZIPRIK MARK CLEMENT ROB ROBILLARD LARRY CLEMENT

Why do I bring this up in a homeimprovement magazine? I figure if you’re reading HIR then you’re not afraid to swing a hammer or turn a wrench, which probably means you’re not the narrow-minded type who might look down on someone who does it for a living. That’s a healthy attitude to have and to share with others, elevating workers of all types.

If you know someone looking for work who has a proclivity for trade labor, then spread the word about these economic opportunities.

Let’s give the country an attitude adjustment about the value of skilled work and the respect for skilled workers.

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS CARTER SWIFT TOM MATTHEWS COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER

CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com

AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO

Home Improvement & Repairs is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.

PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Summer Issue

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STARTSMART 9 HAND TOOLS FOR YOUR TOOLBOX TREAT YOUR TOOLBOX TO SOME NEW TOYS

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TRADESMAN PRO TOOL STATION BACKPACK

MFG: Klein Tools WEB: www.kleintools.com INFO: Let’s start with the toolbox itself. Klein Tools introduces the Tradesman Pro Tool Station Backpack, a perfect combination of storage, accessibility and durability. With 21 pockets and a large interior for maximum storage, this innovative design features a fold-out workstation to keep tools and parts easy to locate on any jobsite. Available with a removable flashlight or without, this backpack has the ability to carry your necessities throughout the day and work comfortably anywhere they’re needed.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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MFG: Kapro WEB: www.kapro.com INFO: The Kapro 770 Exodus is an excellent ruler/leveling tool for installing drywall, cabinets, shelves and marking fastener locations for wall-mounted pictures or mirrors. The straightedge flange along the top includes ruler measurements that align flush with the wall so you can ensure level placement and mark accurate measurements at the same time. The Kapro 770 Exodus includes one horizontal vial, one vertical, and one 45° vial with gradient lines up to 2 percent.

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KAPRO 770 EXODUS

TOUGHBUILT 3-PIECE HANDYMAN TOOL BELT SET

MFG: ToughBuilt WEB: www.toughbuilt.com INFO: The ToughBuilt 3-piece Handyman Tool Belt Set (TB-CT-111C) features the ClipTech innovation to give workers the never-before option of effortless, adjustable and interchangeable pouches to fit every job. Carry only what you need, when you need it. This set includes two rugged pouches and padded belt with heavy-duty buckle. An integrated kickstand allows your pouch and tools to stand on the floor or table next to you. Its 27 customized pockets and loops include two large-capacity pockets with No-Snag Hidden Seam construction, plastic-lined utility knife pocket, screwdriver loops, notebook pocket, extreme-duty hammer loop, and two tape measure clips. The tool belt is made with rugged 6-layer construction and rivet reinforcement to withstand the harshest working conditions.

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ARES TOOL 2-PIECE 72-TOOTH STUBBY RATCHET SET

MFG: Ares Tool WEB: www.arestool.com INFO: The ARES 1/4-inch Drive and 3/8-inch Drive 72-Tooth Stubby Ratchets need only 5 degrees sweep for ratcheting action and feature total lengths of 3.35 inches and 4.15 inches respectively with quick-release buttons for easy socket 5 changes. Made of premium Chrome Vanadium steel with a mirror polish finish, these ratchets are built to last. Thanks to the thumb switch on the back of each head, you can easily change direction, and with their stubby knurled handles, you'll be able to keep a tight hold on your ratchets while working in tight and hard-to-reach areas.

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VISE-GRIP 8" MAX LEVERAGE DIAGONAL CUTTING PLIERS WITH POWERSLOT

MFG: ToughBuilt WEB: www.irwintools.com INFO: The VISE-GRIP Max Leverage Diagonal Cutting Pliers from Irwin Tools are designed with innovative PowerSlot technology that provides twice the cutting power of traditional pliers with only half the effort. Constructed of induction-hardened cutting edges, they easily cut through nails, screws, steel-reinforced cable and piano wire. The integrated handles feature 3-zone contoured grips for increased comfort and control.

Integrated handle hooks equipped for Irwin’s Performance Lanyard system allow for safer elevated working conditions and easier retrieval when stored. Made in Germany, the pliers are specially coated for superior rust-resistance and longer tool life, and backed by the Irwin lifetime guarantee.

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GENERAL TOOLS MAGNETIC WRISTBAND

MFG: General Tools WEB: www.generaltools.com INFO: The new 399 Magnetic Wristband from General Tools has powerful Neodymium magnets to make it the perfect “extra hand” for home improvement, woodworking, carpentry, auto repair, electrical, and other DIY home repair/renovation projects. The wristband is embedded with 10 powerful magnets which have enough power to not just hold screws, bits and nails but even small tools. And there are even two pockets to hold items that aren’t magnetic. One pocket is 2-1/2 inches deep while the second is 3-5/8 inches. A breathable, padded mesh fabric makes the wristband easy to wear while working. It is adjustable to fit most wrists and also can be attached to a work belt.

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STARTSMART

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DREMEL HOME SOLUTIONS RECHARGEABLE GLUE PEN

MFG: Dremel WEB: www.dremel.com INFO: To inspire people to tackle craft and light home-improvement projects around the home, Dremel offers the fast-heating, cordless and rechargeable Home Solutions Glue Pen sold exclusively at The Home Depot. This tool, ideal for everyday home projects, features an integrated 4V MAX rechargeable lithium-ion battery and USB port for convenient charging. At 6-5/8-inches long, the Glue Pen is compact and provides exceptional performance for its size. Unlike corded glue guns that take around five minutes to heat up, the Dremel Glue Pen heats up in approximately 15 seconds with its indicator light letting you know it is ready or when it needs to be charged. It also has a precision nozzle tip that is ideal for detailed gluing and reducing drips. The unique design allows you to hold it in a natural, comfortable position, easing hand fatigue throughout your projects. The battery holds a charge in storage for up to 18 months.

YOUR FAVORITE NON-SCRATCH SCRAPER TOOL JUST GOT ®

WIDER! Save Time and Effort When Cleaning Small Surfaces, Edges & Grooves!

ORIGINAL MODEL AND NEW WIDE BLADE FEATURES: ROUNDED TIPS—BETTER SCRAPER THAN A FINGERNAIL FLAT-EDGED TIPS—WON’T SCRATCH LIKE A SCREWDRIVER POINTED TIPS—BETTER THAN A TOOTHPICK FOR CLEANING GROOVES AND CORNERS

Remove stickers, tape,caulk, putty, grime & more!

Available in original 2-packs, 5-packs and new wide blade 3-packs

Find us at www.scrigit-scraper.com, local hardware stores, and Amazon!

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MILWAUKEE NAIL AND MOLDING PULLERS

MFG: Milwaukee Tool WEB: www.milwaukeetool.com INFO: To remove nails quickly and efficiently, the new Nail Pullers and Molding Puller are complete with a SmoothPull High-Leverage Head for maximum leverage.

All pullers feature a durable, wear-resistant grip for reduced vibration and increased comfort. Precision beveled edges on the claws provide better grip on hardto-reach nails, and an integrated nail remover on the head of the pullers allows users to remove embedded nails in multiple ways while limiting damage to surrounding materials. For wedging and prying in tight spaces, the Molding Puller comes with a whale-tail claw. The 9-in. Finish Nail Puller is optimized with 6D-12D nail slots; the 10-in. Nail Puller and 10-in. Molding Puller are optimized with 8D-16D nail slots; and the 12-in.

Nail Puller is optimized with 10D-20D nail slots.

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CRESCENT Z2 PLIERS

MFG: Crescent Tools WEB: www.crescenttool.com INFO: The new Z2 Pliers from Crescent Tools are packed with next-level design features that make them more effective, more efficient, and more durable than ever before. The flagship tool for this new collection is the Crescent Z2 8-in. Needle Nose Pliers (Z6548CG), which feature a high-leverage joint design, provides up to 35 percent greater cutting power. Laser-hardened cutting edges cut clean and remain sharp 50 percent longer.

Additionally, the Needle Nose Pliers’ six-zone head includes a cross-hatched jaw for gripping, wire puller notch, non-marring grip zone, torque zone for twisting and bending, and a fastener grip for turning nuts and bolts. The new Crescent Z2 line features 35 products, including tongue-and-groove pliers, slip-joint pliers, linesman pliers and more.

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STARTSMART NEWSWIRE

HOME DEPOT EXPERIENCED A 20% INCREASE IN SALES IN 2020

MAKITA LAUNCHES OVER 50 CORDLESS TOOLS WITH XGT SYSTEM Makita’s new XGT System includes over 50 cordless equipment and tools to handle the most demanding applications. Expanding the 40V max and 80V max cordless tool lineup, the XGT System delivers higherpowered cordless product solutions to applications dominated by cords, gas and air. By staying within the user-preferred 18V battery form factor, yet expanding the technical capabilities, an XGT Battery can power everything from construction equipment to a handheld drill. The system utilizes advanced brushless motor engineering with a higher volume of copper windings and highest-quality rare earth magnets for longer run time, increased power and speed, and longer tool life.

XGT is a “smart” system with digital technology that enables communication between the battery, tool and charger to monitor performance, prevent overload, and to provide up to two-times longer sustained power under heavy-load applications. For more on XGT, visit www.makitatools.com/xgt.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Summer Issue

Many of us had rough year in 2020 … but not all of us. As the Coronovirus pandemic forced people to take shelter indoors, the home-improvement sector experienced a strong 2020. According to data presented by TradingPlatforms.com, Home Depot’s net sales increased by $20B in 2020, a 19.85% year-over-year increase as people invested heavily in upgrading their homes.

Traditionally, economic downturns have resulted in a decline in home improvement, but according to a survey

by Hippo.com of 1,000 American homeowners, 54% indicated making at least one home improvement in 2020. The largest share of respondents indicated to have made improvements to their backyard, kitchen and home office with 21%, 20.1%, and 18.4% respectively.

The share of people who made improvements to their home that amounted to more than $10,000 was 10%, double of what pre-COVID-19 numbers indicated.

Interestingly, 71% indicated that they plan to sustain a similar amount of home improvements in the future.

DOUBLE-STUD WALLS GAINING GROUND IN COLD CLIMATES Double-stud construction is a modern energy-efficient framing concept that is gaining ground among professional homebuilders.

To get the nitty-gritty on the basics, HIR turned to construction expert Ben Bogie: “Double-stud construction is type of wall that’s often used in cold climates (zone 4 and above) to gain large amounts of insulation, using common building materials and avoiding environmentally harmful foam. In most versions, the exterior is constructed with a typical 2x4 load-bearing wall just like the ones found in most houses. Then, a second non-loadbearing wall is built to the interior spaced away from the exterior wall. The amount that it’s spaced apart can vary, depending on how much insulation is desired. In Maine, we typically build 10-12-in. walls, but they can range anywhere from 8-16 inches.

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*Always consult your local building codes for specific construction guidance.

“There are a few reasons these walls are favored. First is how well they perform thermally, and that’s not just because they have a lot more insulation, but because they have insulation in the right places. There’s a phenomenon called thermal bridging where you have framing material touching the outside wall surface and the inside drywall. These framing pieces act as a bridge for indoor heat to flow across them to the outside during the winter, and outside heat to flow in during the summer. But if you space the walls apart, you short-circuit this highway of energy loss and end up with a wall that performs dramatically better. You can accomplish the same effect by adding continuous insulation to the outside of your wall, stopping the energy flow through the framing, but that requires an additional complicated ‘lap’ all the way around the outside of your building with expensive and potentially not-so-environmentally-friendly materials. (There are more ecologically benign products becoming available, but they are still quite expensive, comparatively).

“Double-stud walls use low-cost, common building materials that any carpenter or handy person is already familiar with and requires no special training. There are some factors to be aware of: These walls perform best with cellulose insulation, and the addition of what’s known as a “rain screen.” They should also be built as airtight as possible, minimizing the accumulation of wintertime humidity in the wall. They are far from complicated to build, the cost is low for their level of performance, and they utilize environmentally friendly and readily available materials.”

Editor’s Note: Ben Bogie is a second-generation highperformance builder working as a lead carpenter in Portland, Maine, and is an active member of the Northeast Sustainable Energy Association. He specializes in building science, low-energy designs, and high-end custom finishes.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART ASK MATT QUESTION: Is there a way to install a new single-handle kitchen faucet on a countertop while hiding the holes from the old faucet’s handles?

ANSWER: To replace a three-hole faucet with a single-hole faucet, you need a “deck plate” AKA “escutcheon,” which is a metal plate (usually about 10 inches long) that covers the two side holes in the countertop while providing a center hole in which to install the new faucet. To replace a three-hole faucet with a two-hole faucet, you might consider filling the third hole with a soap-dispenser assembly, which has a nozzle that matches the faucet’s finish and a soap reservoir that stays hidden beneath the countertop.

QUESTION: What is the best way to repair the rotted wood at the bottom of exterior door casing?

ANSWER: For minor damage, you can remove the rotted material with a chisel and wire brush then apply a liquid repair product such as Durham’s Water Putty or wood epoxy. Spackle the patch into a similar shape as the surrounding trim and allow it to dry. Once the patch hardens, sand the repair flush then seal it with primer and paint.

For larger damage, you might have to cut out the wood to replace it. In some cases, you can replace the rotted wood with a block of PVC. Nail it in place and fasten with construction glue, then sand, caulk, and paint to blend with the trim.

Avoid painting PVC dark colors, however, because dark shades can absorb the sun’s heat which can melt the plastic, deforming its shape. For dark painted repairs, replace the rotted trim with pressure-treated wood instead, but first coat all sides of the wood block with a couple coats of primer-sealant. Finish the repair by sealing all joints with a quality exterior caulk, then applying exterior-grade paint.

In all cases, make sure to leave a gap between the bottom of the casing and the ground to avoid contact with standing water.

Need more info? Visit Matt’s blog at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com.

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STAY ON TRACK For the last several years, the hottest trend in interior door design has been the popularity of barn-door hardware which rolls the door along a wallmounted track. This style of door conserves floor space, plus the track configuration may be applied to double bypass doors and even smaller cabinet doors. As a decorative feature, the hardware itself adds an interesting design element, and it’s versatile enough to support a door made of

practically any sort of rigid material with otherwise impossible options in appearance or shape, since the door doesn’t have to be built within the confines of hinge placement.

ORDERING THE HARDWARE Barn door hardware is available in a wide range of styles and finishes with a broad array of accessories, such as decorative wheels, matching door handles, etc. The door hardware kits also come in a range

First step is to take inventory of all the parts of the kit.

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SKILL LEVEL

1 EASY

INSTALLING THE TRACK AND HANGER HARDWARE FOR AN INTERIOR BARN DOOR.

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STAY ON TRACK

If removing an old door, first remove the bottom hinge pin and work toward the top.

Mark the studs and check if they align with the track’s fastener holes.

of weight-carrying capacities, so make sure the kit you order can support the weight of whatever door you’ve chosen.

The size of the track will be determined by your door size. Manufacturers usually recommend the track length be at least twice the width of the door (or the opening).

For example, if the door or opening is 30 inches wide, you’ll need a 60-in. long track.

The track of a barn door is typically designed with mounting locations spaced 16 inches on center to align with standard wall-stud spacing. However, the location where you’d

like to mount the track might not align with the wall studs.

If the mounting holes don’t match the studs, you have two options: (1) You can mount the track using hollow wall anchors, or (2) install a mounting board anchored into the wall studs then mount the track into the board.

The wall anchors and mounting board will be sold separately from the kits.

On this project, we went with Option 2 and stained our mounting board to match the existing 1x6 rustic trim already decorating the kitchen.

INSTALLING THE WALL TRACK Before you begin, take inventory of the barn-door hardware kit to ensure it includes all the components listed on the contents.

If you’re replacing an old door, make any necessary repairs to the surrounding trim or casing.

First step is to locate the wall framing with a stud finder. Mark the studs with painter’s tape to avoid pencil marks on the wall.

Place the track in its horizontal position on the wall to see if the mounting holes align

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INSTALLING THE TRACK AND HANGER HARDWARE FOR AN INTERIOR BARN DOOR

If using a mounting board, install it in a level position above the door where the track will go.

Screw the board securely to the wall studs. with the studs. The midpoint of the track should align with the edge of the door opening.

On this project, a couple of the fastener holes happened to align with the king studs of the doorway, but not with enough studs to satisfy us. Therefore, we installed the horizontal mounting board to give the remaining screws solid material to grip. The board was fastened with 3-in. screws driven into the studs. Each stud got two screws; a lower decking screw hidden behind the track and an upper trim-head screw filled with putty and stained to match the wood. (Tool tip: A cabinet jack or temporary brace can help support the board when fastening.)

Draw the line for your track. Our kit’s instructions specified that we draw a level line at exactly 1-11/16 inch plus door height above the floor (instructions will vary). We drew a level pencil line on the face of our mounting board.

Position the track with its mounting holes aligned with the pencil line. Mark all fastener locations. Predrill holes with a 1/4-in. drill bit (for concrete walls, use a 3/8-in. concrete bit).

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STAY ON TRACK

Slide the door stoppers onto the end of each track but leave them loose without tightening their screws. Once tightened, these hard rubber blocks will prevent the door from running off the track.

The track is installed with three-piece fasteners that include long lag screws, washers, and rubber spacers (plus a hollow wall anchor, if necessary). When mounted, the track is clamped between the washers and spacers to hold it away from the wall and provide clearance for the wheeled hangers.

To hang the track, loosely attach one end and let the other end hang down. Then,

Mark a pencil line for the track at the height specified by the kit’s instructions. Align the track with the line and mark the fastener locations.

Predrill all fastener holes.

Slide the stop blocks onto the track.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Summer Issue

swing the track up and attach the other end.

Finally, fill in the middle holes. Tighten all the lag screws.

INSTALLING THE DOOR Attach the kit’s hangers to your door top.

On the door shown, we drilled 7/16-in. holes through the door for the hanger bolts. Pay close attention to the instructions included with your kit, because measurements will vary among products and manufacturers. For example, these hangers required holes driven at 1-9/16 in. and 3-9/16 in. from the top. Fasten the bolts with nuts and washers.

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INSTALLING THE TRACK AND HANGER HARDWARE FOR AN INTERIOR BARN DOOR

The three-part fasteners include a long lag screw, washer and rubber spacer.

Attach one end of the track, then swing it up and fasten the opposite end.

Fill in all the remaining fasteners in the track and tighten the lags (left: view from below).

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STAY ON TRACK

Predrill the door for the hangers, spaced according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Attach the hangers with nuts and bolts.

Hanging the door is a simple procedure; just align the center groove of the hanger wheels with the track. The weight of the door might make lifting it in place a challenge, however, so enlist help accordingly.

The kit shown included anti-jump pads that screw to the top of the door to keep it from extending too far.

The last step was screwing a simple bracket (included) to the floor, which serves as a floor guide and prevents the door from swinging out from the wall.

Tighten the stop blocks according to where you want the door to travel along the track, and that’s all there is to a DIY barn-door upgrade. H

New Life for an Old Door

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A good friend of ours who was remodeling an old house had planned to dispose of this funky 70s-era door with huge wood florets. We had other plans and talked him out of it. HIR’s interior décor guru Shanna stripped off the old lime-colored paint, expecting to reclaim it with a new “faux antique” finish, but she never got that far. By the time the old coatings had been stripped, scraped and sanded, the resulting wood surface had so much rugged character she decided to preserve it “as is” to complement the rustic décor of the kitchen where it would live. After a light coat of stain and a few coats of matte polyurethane, the door had exactly the look the space needed.

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Summer Issue

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INSTALLING THE TRACK AND HANGER HARDWARE FOR AN INTERIOR BARN DOOR

Hang the door by aligning the grooved wheels with the track. Screw the anti-jump pads to the edge of the door.

A simple trim package around the doorway gives the installation a finished look.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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CONSTRUCTION TIPS TO BUILD A PATIO COVER

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Summer Issue

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SKILL LEVEL

RAISE THE ROOF

4 PRO

By Carter Swift

Families are spending more time around the house, so they’re making the most of their homes—inside and out. To make the most of a poolside patio area, the Laney family of Birmingham, Alabama, decided to add a patio roof to a balcony overhang. The new extension provides shelter from the rain and shade from the sun, covering a concrete patio that now includes cushioned seating, an outdoor television, a ceiling fan and a grilling station. The roof was built to blend seamlessly with the home’s construction and make a perfect place for watching a game poolside while burgers are cooking.

GROUND LEVEL The builders on this project are the father-and-son remodeling team of Randy and Caleb Stephenson, who began with a strong foundation using pressure-treated posts on galvanized post bases. These days, building codes require “ground contact-rated” treated lumber for all outdoor posts as well as

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CONSTRUCTION TIPS TO BUILD A PATIO COVER

standing water from wicking into the end grain of the lumber. Fastening the metal base into the sides of the post also increases uplift loads for wind resistance. Furthermore, this ABA post base from Simpson Strong-Tie is adjustable by including a slot around the anchor bolt that makes precise post placement easier.

Note that if you’re building in an area without an existing concrete foundation, HIR recommends you provide concrete piers beneath the posts to avoid direct ground contact with the wood.

LEDGER CONNECTION At the house end, the roof’s ceiling joists are supported from below by a 2x4 ledger as well as by fasteners driven into the house framing.

During construction, the ledger board was screwed in place for assembly (then later anchored with lag screws). The ledger board is installed over the painted fascia board of the house’s balcony, but directly behind the fascia is solid house framing.

Whenever attaching a structure to a house, first make sure solid 2x framing is located behind the trim or siding you’re fastening into.

Trim boards are typically only 3/4-in. thick and don’t provide adequate support for the connection. For the ledger, joists and rafters, fasten with exterior-grade screws long enough to penetrate at least 1-1/2 in. into solid 2x framing.

CHECK FOR HEIGHT, LEVEL AND SQUARENESS Establishing a square and level layout is absolutely critical. Once you have the ledger attached and the posts temporarily braced in place, position the two band joists that frame

any key structural components that tie into the house or are located near the ground.

The roof was attached at one end to the balcony rim joist and supported on the other end by three 4x4 posts. Each post is lifted off the foundation by a galvanized post base secured in place with a concrete anchor. The separation protects the wood against rot by preventing

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MAKE SURE SOLID 2X FRAMING IS LOCATED BEHIND THE TRIM OR SIDING YOU’RE FASTENING INTO the roof, extending from each end of the ledger to the support posts. These side joists should be attached over the posts completely square, level and at the same elevation as each other.

Anyone building at home should be prepared for some unexpected real-world issues, such as the uneven patio foundation Randy and Caleb were building on. When leveling the side joists, the patio slope meant one post was too high and had to be trimmed to

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CONSTRUCTION TIPS TO BUILD A PATIO COVER

length. The second post was slightly too short, and Caleb added a wood block to the top to make up the difference.

HEADER CONSTRUCTION At the opposite end from the house, the three posts support the roof’s header, which is usually made of two vertically installed 2x boards that run parallel to the ledger to carry the joists and rafters. Whether you’ll need a 2x6, 2x8 or larger will be determined by the span of the header as allowed by your local building codes.

For shorter spans, you can attach the header boards on each side of 4x4 posts using carriage bolts and washers (fortified with epoxy to withstand weather exposure).

For longer spans, you might consider using 6x6 posts notched on each side to accept the header boards, so the weight is transferred directly to the ground and not reliant solely on the shear strength of the bolts.

(See diagrams for details.)

You’ll notice this roof incorporates an unusual approach to header construction.

On this project, the Laney family wanted

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to preserve as much view of their pool and expansive backyard while sitting beneath the roof as possible, but the roof header threatened to obstruct that view. So, how do you “shrink” a porch roof header without compromising its strength?

Randy and Caleb came up with a threefold solution: First, they built the roof with

SO, HOW DO YOU “SHRINK” A PORCH ROOF HEADER WITHOUT COMPROMISING ITS STRENGTH?

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CONSTRUCTION TIPS TO BUILD A PATIO COVER

the shallowest pitch allowed by code. Second, they installed a 2x6 oriented flat rather than vertically, which shrunk the header height by several inches while still providing a nailing surface. A flat 2x has very little load-bearing capacity, though, so they incorporated 3/8-in. angle iron into the construction of the header to ensure it would not bow beneath the framing. Similar to a lintel that supports brickwork, this approach maintained the structural integrity of the header, but before attempting the same at your home, consult your local building inspector to see if it’s permitted in your area.

JOISTS AND RAFTERS Before installing joists and rafters check the boards and mark the crown, which refers to the direction of the arc in a bowed board. The crown (arc) should be oriented at the top when the boards are installed vertically to avoid sagging in the roof.

With the band joists and header established, the interior 2x4 joists were installed level on 16-inch centers, driven from each side and from the top into the house framing with 3-1/2-in. screws and supported by the ledger board. In some municipalities, local codes might require metal connectors to install the joists.

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On the opposite end, the joists are screwed to the header, which supports them from beneath. The joist ends extend several inches past the header where they’ll tie into the rafter tails and ultimately be enclosed to provide a drip edge to the roof, so water will shed away from the structure and the patio.

Aligned with each joist, the rafters were then toe-screwed into the house framing to give the roof its pitch. To help manage the pitch, Randy used a loose 2x4 oriented perpendicular across the joists on which he propped the rafters to help approximate their angle. He then used a 6-foot level to

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carefully check rafter height before fastening them in place.

Between each rafter and joist, Randy installed 2x blocking flush between the

framing members to solidify construction and prevent any lateral movement.

Once the framing is complete, consider any additional rough-in work you might need, such

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CONSTRUCTION TIPS TO BUILD A PATIO COVER

as extra blocking to support a ceiling fan, as well as any electrical or other utilities that should be incorporated.

ROOFING With the rafters complete, the Laney pool patio got its new roof. Caleb and Randy fastened plywood sheathing over the joists, Randy cap-nailed the underlayment in place, and the roof was covered in the same architectural shingles as they rest of the house to give it a

perfect match. Be sure to install appropriate flashing where the patio roof meets the house, and if you’re not sure how to do that, call a pro.

FINISHING UP With the shingles buttoned up, a similar roof might be ready for a coat of exterior stain/sealer to preserve the look of the exposed wood. This project, however, got the full paint-and-trim treatment to blend with the home, including a finished ceiling, enclosed header soffit, and decorative column wraps for the support posts. H

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> THIS PROJECT GOT THE FULL PAINT-AND-TRIM TREATMENT

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THESE SHELVES DEFY GRAVITY, AND YOU CAN BUILD THEM WITH A TABLE SAW.

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SKILL LEVEL

AMAZE YOUR FRIENDS WITH

2 MODERATE

FLOATING SHELVES! Your friends and family won’t believe their eyes when they see these floating shelves that appear to hover magically on a wall without any means of support. How in the heck do they work?

In this article, we share the secret to make your own magic and astound everyone you know!

This type of shelving provides extra surface storage while optimizing space by eliminating the need for support brackets. With no brackets in the way, the shelves can often be situated more closely together, allowing more room for more shelves.

Floating shelves are basically made of flat, hollow boxes. Depending on the method of construction, the hollow shelf mounts to a wooden cleat or metal rods which fit inside the rear of the box to support it from

within. The cleat or rods are fastened securely to the wall studs for the strongest holding power.

Following are details for making cleat-style floating shelves which can easily be modified in size to accommodate different wall lengths and then stained or painted to your preference.

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AMAZE YOUR FRIENDS WITH FLOATING SHELVES!

pull away from the fasteners that hold it to the cleat.

With the design shown, the upper and lower panels are made of thin 1/4-in. plywood, which is not exactly heavy-duty material. For this reason, it’s smart to limit the shelf size to a fairly shallow depth—only 6 inches away from the wall, in this case.

DESIGN The first step is to decide the size and shape of your shelves based on the room. You can feasibly build the shelves as long as the wall.

When designing the shelves, keep in mind the hollow nature of the shelves’ construction, and treat them as decorative shelves rather than expect them carry a great deal of weight. The mounting cleat only extends about 2 inches into the shelf, so the shelf should be lightweight, well-balanced, and fairly narrow so as not to

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1. Square up the rounded edges of the 2×4s.

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CONSTRUCTION The sides of the shelf are built from common 2x4 stud lumber, so the first step is to saw the rounded edges off 2×4 stock to give the wood a sharper more “furniture-grade” appearance.

I then ripped the 2×4 in half lengthwise into 2×2 boards.

Three sides of the shelf are made of the 2×2 material, while the top and bottom panels are made of plywood. The fourth side or “back” of the shelf remains hollow to accept the wall cleat.

To ensure a flat, flush shelf surface, I carved 1/4-in. deep rabbets along the top and bottom edges of the 2×2’s by making intersecting rip cuts on the table saw. When arranged as the interior sides of the box, these rabbets form a recessed interior channel or “trough” for the plywood to nest flush inside.

The rabbets were cut to measure 1/4-in. deep but 1 inch wide, which gave the plywood a solid fastening surface with plenty of nailing

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2. Rip the 2x4s into 2x2 stock.

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3. Clearly mark the cuts to rip the rabbets (or channels) in each shelf side.

4. Set the table saw’s blade depth to make intersecting cuts along the top and bottom of each shelf side.

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room. I marked the “mirror image” cut-lines on both sides of the 2×2 then adjusted the table saw’s blade depth to make intersecting rips.

Next, cut the 2×2 channeled blocks at 45-degree miters, according to the measurements of your shelf size. Orient the 1/4-in. channels at the top and bottom of the miters.

The front piece will extend the full length of the shelf and have 45-deg. miters on each end, but the sides will have square cuts at the rear which butt against the wall. (See diagram page 37.)

Loosely assemble the miters to make sure they fit. Measure for the plywood panels by placing the end of your tape at the corners of the rabbets and not at the outside corners

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5. Shown is the resulting T-shape profile of the shelf sides. 6. If cutting the corners on a miter saw, use shims beneath the bottom channel to prevent the board from rocking. 7. Check the miters for proper fit. 8. Prep the wood for stain or paint.

of the boards; otherwise you’ll cut the panels too large. Be sure to select the most attractive plywood side for the top and bottom, keeping any rough side facing inside the box. Cut the panels to fit snugly within the rabbet grooves.

To join the mitered sides, use a combination of wood glue and finish nails. Or, ensure a super-solid joint by fastening with 3-in. finish or trim-head screws countersunk below the wood surface. Note: For nails, you should always predrill the nail holes, and finish hammering with a nail set to concealed the heads with wood filler.

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Fasten the top and bottom plywood panels with brads or pin nails.

To make the mounting cleat I used the leftover T-shaped 2x material. I simply ran the piece flat-side downward on the table saw, shearing off the “ears” of the profile so that the “T” became shaped like an “I”. I then cut the length to fit snugly between the two sides of the hollow box. Test-fit the cleat in the hollow shelf before mounting to the wall studs.

Before mounting, I filled all fasteners holes, sanded the shelves, then added wood stain and white paint, which I distressed for an antique look.

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9. Assemble the sides with wood glue and finish nails. 10. Cut the plywood panels to size.

11. Check the panels for a snug fit. 12. Fasten the plywood top and bottom with brads or pin nails.

13. To make the cleats, rip the “ears” off the remainder of the T-shaped stock to make it I-shaped.

14. Cut the cleats to length that fit inside the shelf.

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15. Mark the wall studs and the shelves’ midpoint using tape strips.

16. Level and predrill the cleats at the stud locations.

17. Screw the cleats securely into the wall studs.

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17 INSTALLATION Locate the wall studs and mark them with vertical strips of painter’s tape.

If you’ll be stacking multiple shelves as shown in this article, decide where you want them located on the wall and mark the midpoint on a strip of tape that extends above and below shelf locations.

To determine height placement, hold the cleats against the wall aligned with the midpoint line of the shelf locations. Make sure the cleats are level and adjust their elevation until you’re satisfied with the look, then mark the tops of each on the wall.

After determining shelf placement, hold each cleat level against the wall and aligned

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with the shelf midpoints, then mark the stud locations on the cleats. Predrill the fastener holes through the cleats.

Fasten the cleats with decking screws long enough to penetrate at least 1 inch into the wall studs. This might require countersinking the screw head inside the cleat. Mount the cleats level and securely. (You’ll get the most holding power with a stud-mounted screw on both ends of the cleat, but if necessary, you can use a bracketing wall anchor on one end.)

To mount the shelves, fit the hollow boxes over the wood cleats. Drill pilot holes along the back top edge of the shelf for a few wood screws spaced 8 to 10 inches apart. Fasten through the plywood from above.

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18. Repeat for all the shelf cleats.

19. The hollow shelves should slip snugly over the cleats.

20. Predrill the rear edge of the shelf with a countersink bit.

21. Screw the shelf to the cleat every 8 to 10 inches.

22. Shown are the completed shelves.

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Pipe Bracket Shelves You can make rugged “industrial style” shelves using support brackets made from 3/4-inch threaded galvanized steel pipe, floor flanges, and end caps. First, wash the pipe components to remove any grime or oil, then spray paint them with a metal paint. Rustoleum offers a few textured paint options such as a “hammered finish” to give them more character. Fasten through the flanges of the brackets into the wall studs using heavy-duty wood screws for sturdy holding power. If studs aren’t where you need them, then use a couple of toggle bolts for a secure hold to the drywall.

The shelves can be cut from 2x lumber and distressed for extra “rustic” character then stained to your preference.

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INSTALL A TOILET IN 12 STEPS

By Matt Weber Installing a toilet is a fairly straightforward DIY project that requires no specialized tools, and the new toilet usually includes everything you need to do the job. To install the new unit, you’ll need a new wax gasket and two 5 /16-inch bolts to mount the bowl to the floor flange. The following instructions apply to installation of a standard two-piece toilet, in which the tank and bowl are separate components. (See sidebar on installing a new single-piece toilet.)

pipe wrench, remove the nut connecting the water line to the valve at the bottom left side of the tank.

With a box-end or Crescent rench, remove the two nuts attaching the bowl to the floor flange. Once they’re out of the way, lift off the old toilet. Scrape away old gasket material to expose the plastic drain flange (the mounting base for your new toilet).

Discard the old bolts.

[STEP 2]

Place the two new 5/16” bolts (included with toilet) in the holes located on the sides of the exposed flange, with the bolt heads inside the flange. Position the two bolts straight up and across from each other. Then put the new toilet gasket (wax ring) on the flange, with the flat side pointing up (if tapered).

[STEP 1]

If removing an old toilet, first shut off the water supply and flush the toilet.

Use a bucket or cloth to remove any leftover water in the tank and bowl. Using a pair of pliers or small

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[STEP 3]

Lower the bowl straight down, centered on the wax ring. Ensure the bolts come though the holes on each side of the bowl. Apply pressure straight down; pushing the bowl over the ring and ensuring the flange squeezes the wax to create a seal.

[STEP 4]

Add washers and nuts to the protruding bolts and tighten them. Be careful not to crack the bowl.

[STEP 5]

Push a pair of 5 /16-by-3” mounting bolts through the small holes

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on the tank’s bottom. Place rubber washers just beneath the bolt heads for a watertight seal. Add nuts and washers to the bolts on the underside of the tank and tighten until snug.

[STEP 6]

Apply the sponge-rubber gasket (small side down if beveled) over the discharge tube where the tank sets on the bowl.

[STEP 7]

Set the tank on the bowl, threading the bolts into the bolt holes on the bowl and sandwiching the gasket between the tank and bowl.

[STEP 8]

Add metal washers and nuts to the bolts on the tank’s bottom.

Hold the tank level and tighten.

Keep each bolt stationary with a screwdriver while backing up the nut with a crescent wrench. (Avoid over-tightening, which can crack the porcelain.)

[STEP 9]

Screw the flush handle to the lift arm through the hole in the tank (threaded in reverse). Connect the lift arm to the chain of the flushing ball/flapper inside the tank.

[STEP 10]

Bolt the new toilet lid to the bowl.

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INSTALL A TOILET IN 12 STEPS

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[STEP 11]

Install a new water line from the wall or floor valve to the feed valve on tank’s underside.

Turn on the water, check for leaks, and try a few trial flushes.

If your toilet holds water, tighten the bolts that hold the bowl to

the floor. Adjust minor spacing issues or instability between the tank and bowl (or bowl and floor) with hard rubber shims.

tool to cut the ends off the mounting bolts to accommodate the plastic caps. Replace the tank cover and your new toilet is ready.

[STEP 12]

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Once everything is in place, use a hacksaw, buzz cutter, or similar

Installing a Single-piece Toilet One-piece toilets are popular because they integrate the tank and bowl into a single seamless design which adds a contemporary look to your bathroom.

The seamless design also eliminates the joints and nooks that accumulate grime, so these toilets are very easy to clean. Furthermore, installation is further simplified by eliminating the need for tank-to-bowl bolts or a tank gasket. By combining the tank and bowl, however, these one-piece toilets are heavy—often more than 100 lbs.—so you might want to recruit an assistant to help lift the unit into place over the wax ring.

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