Home Improvement And Repairs Late Summer 2021

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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS

NICE VIEW! HOW TO

INSTALL GLASS HANDRAILS U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95

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ISSUE #4 JULY/AUGUST 2021

HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

INSIDE ADD A DRINK RAIL TO YOUR DECK TIPS FOR TRIM AND MOLDING WHAT’S HOT IN HOUSE SIDING STEP BY STEP: INSTALL A BATHROOM FAUCET

¢ ¢ ¢ ¢

TM

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INSIDE: 06 09 16

40 COVER FEATURE

NICE VIEW!

A FRAMELESS GLASS HANDRAIL PROVIDES AN UNINTERRUPTED VIEW OF THE OUTDOORS

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30 48 53

LETTER FROM MATT WEBER START SMART • WHAT’S HOT IN HOUSE SIDING FOR 2021?

• NEWS WIRE • ASK MATT SKILL SET BASIC TRAINING FOR TRIM DECKED OUT WITH A DRINK RAIL A DRINK RAIL MATCHES THE DECK'S MAIN COLOR, AND OFFERS GUESTS A SPACIOUS SURFACE ON WHICH TO SET THEIR DRINKS JOB ESSENTIALS RYOBI | BOSCH | PASLODE | WORX | DURASEIN WEATHER SHIELD | OWENS CORNING STEP-BY-STEP HANDBOOK INSTALL A BATHROOM FAUCET

9

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SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

1 2 EASY

04

MODERATE

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KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL: LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO

Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Summer Issue

SKILL LEVEL

SKILL LEVEL

HARD

PRO

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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER

Over the last few years in the world of home remodeling, it has become more difficult to distinguish the work of some self-proclaimed "pro" remodelers from that of DIY homeowners.

Of course, that isn’t always the case, because a true professional craftsman has the benefit of years of experience and instruction, whereas a DIY’er is usually learning on the job. The problem often lies in the availability of truly skilled workers compared to the glut of unskilled people who don a toolbelt and expect to get paid for shoddy work.

Furthermore, in this current era of “free money while you sit at home,” it’s tougher than ever for contractors and homeowners alike to find reliable tradespeople who are eager to work.

On the other hand, I’m surrounded by improvement-minded DIY homeowners who tackle their own projects on a regular basis, and do so with the care and attention to detail one would hope from a seasoned pro. I constantly hear

PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com

from men and women, young and old, about the projects they’re undertaking, from installing a floor or accent wall to installing new lights or replacing a deck.

Sometimes we get questions, and sometimes we get photos of their beautiful finished projects, which they’re proud to show off.

That leads me to second-guess the terms we commonly use. An “old pro” is thought to be good at their job, but the dictionary defines the word professional as “a person who earns a living in a sport or other occupation frequently engaged in by amateurs.” In other words, to qualify as a “pro” one simply needs to get paid for what they do, whether they do lousy work or not. A pro is not necessarily an expert.

In many cases, I’ve seen more expertise on display from diligent DIY’ers than in the work of certain paid remodelers.

When you’re hiring a “pro” remodeler, what you want is an expert. Ask friends, family and neighbors for local referrals and then spend time researching

ADVISORY BOARD JEFF WINKLE CHIP LOVELADY JIM BUTTERS KATHY ZIPRIK MARK CLEMENT ROB ROBILLARD LARRY CLEMENT

that person online. Expert remodelers take their reputation seriously and often hold credentials beyond licensing, such as certifications or memberships in trade associations. Time and cost are important, but also ask about the remodeler’s educational background, training, specialties, or past issues with clients. Don’t just take their word for it; you can check references, license numbers, insurance information, and certifications by calling providers to verify.

A skilled remodeler is usually worth every penny as long as you can verify the “pro” is an expert in their field. These are the folks who will take pride in their work, and thus pride in your home, just the way you do.

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS CARTER SWIFT TOM MATTHEWS COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER

CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com

AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO

Home Improvement & Repairs is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.

PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC

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STARTSMART WHAT’S HOT IN HOUSE SIDING FOR 2021?

HERE ARE FOUR DIFFERENT OPTIONS THAT ARE TURNING HEADS IN THE NEW YEAR.

1 TANDOSTONE MFG: TandoStone WEB: www.tandobp.com INFO: TandoStone composite stone siding offers two new colors: Nordic Mist, part of the Tando Creek Ledgestone Collection, and Glacier Bay, under the Stacked Stone line. Creek Ledgestone emulates the rugged look of hand-picked stone with distinct grout lines, while Stacked Stone features a dry stack profile without grout lines between the stones. Nordic Mist is a cool gray with warm accents, and Glacier Bay includes an array of frosty gray hues.

TandoStone features realistic design, easy installation, moisture resistance, expansive color options, and TruGrit technology—a matte texture that offers a low-gloss appearance and the rough, gritty feel of real stone. Impervious to moisture, TandoStone works for ground-level or roofline applications and can be installed in any climate. It’s also safe and easy to install as an accent on tall walls, so homeowners never have to worry about stones falling off the wall.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART

2 ASCEND COMPOSITE CLADDING MFG: Alside WEB: www.alside.com INFO: Ascend Composite Cladding by Alside is a “first-of-its-kind” siding solution offering a color palette of 20 shades with the deeply grained look of real wood.

Winner of a 2021 “Best of IBSx Award” for new building materials, Ascend is the world’s first cladding engineered with a combination of Glass-Reinforced Polymer and Graphite-Infused Polystyrene. This patented technology achieves superior performance in tests for wind load and impact resistance, workability and flame/smoke spread—all without the headaches of maintenance. Not only does the product’s light weight make it easy to handle, but its self-aligning stack lock makes it easy to install. Plus, no sealing, touching up, joint flashing or caulking is required—meaning less mess and less waste. Ascend siding is backed by a lifetime warranty.

3 DIAMOND KOTE SIDING MFG: Diamond Kote Siding WEB: www.diamondkotesiding.com INFO: The No. 1 brand of prefinished LP Smartside, Diamond Kote Siding is an engineered wood product treated with a SmartGuard process, which allows it to withstand extreme temperatures, heavy humidity, freeze/thaws and everything in between.

Diamond Kote Siding is backed by a 30-year No fade warranty, plus a 5/50-year limited warranty provides 5-year, 100-percent labor and replacement feature and a 50-year prorated limited warranty on the product. Its core strength resists airborne debris, and the warranty covers damage from hail up to 1.75-inch in diameter. Custom color options are available. Plus, the the siding is designed to install up to 22 percent faster than standard 16-ft. lap siding, due to its heavy-duty rear spline.

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4 TRUCEDAR STEEL BOARD AND BATTEN MFG: Quality Edge WEB: www.qualityedge.com INFO: TruCedar Steel Siding from Quality Edge replicates the popular vertical Craftsman style of board and batten siding available in wide (10-in.) and narrow (6-in.) profiles. Each TruCedar profile has a carbon-reinforced steel alloy core enveloped in CarbonTech60 zinc coating. This coating provides both a physical barrier and cathodic protection and prevents moisture and oxygen from reaching the steel core. The siding won’t peel, rot, fade, crack, mold or melt; it resists pest infestation, and it’s backed by a lifetime warranty.

The HIR team went on site with Mike Roberts and Justin McAllister of Lovelady Construction as they installed a beautiful blue TruCedar steel siding on a home in Thorsby, Alabama.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART NEWSWIRE

T-REX BRUTE FORCE TAPE SETS GUINNESS WORLD RECORD

T-Rex Brute Force tape has set a GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS title for the strongest duct tape. To achieve the strongest duct tape title, Brute Force was tested against 19 other premium duct tapes of similar material and strength claims from around the world. Brute Force produced a tensile strength at break of 303.5 pounds per inch—outperforming the competitive tapes by more than 50 percent. To showcase T-Rex Brute Force tape, the brand teamed up with four-time World’s Strongest Man Brian Shaw to put the product through multiple lifts and strength tests—including lifting a 700-pound concrete block with just one loop of the tape and pulling more than 400 pounds. Check out all the lifts and stunts at TrexTape.com/Strongest.

FIRST CLOUD-CONNECTED, WHOLE-HOME INDOOR AIR QUALITY SYSTEM

Broan-NuTone's new connected indoor air quality system, Overture, connects a home's supply and exhaust ventilation to monitor the quality of air and

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Summer Issue

turn on automatically when air quality levels are low.

The system is fully integrated into a home's supply and exhaust ventilation and can be installed in new construction or remodels without the need for an incremental hub, meaning it can be controlled from the cloud. Overture operates with new or existing products using specialized switches and sensors. Installation is a breeze in either scenario. Sensors detect when humidity and pollutants are present and automatically switch on the appropriate Broan-Nutone ventilation fan, rangehood, ERV/HRV, or supply fan. It automatically mitigates the issue through a balance of exhaust and fresh air. Learn more at overture.broan-nutone.com.

RELIEF FROM HIGH LUMBER PRICES?

The American Wood Council released a report outlining the variety of issues that have spurred an imbalance between lumber supply and demand, and more importantly, what can be done about it. According to the report, Federal Reserve Chairman Powell was quoted recently saying that the recent fall in lumber prices is

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> an indicator that high-inflation readings "will start to abate. Prices that have moved up really quickly because of the shortages and bottlenecks and the like should stop going up. And at some point, they, in some cases, should actually go down. And we did see that in the case of lumber."

The AWC contends that the most meaningful opportunity to address constraints to lumber supply is to focus on transportation and workforce limitations, touting such programs as the DRIVE Safe Act to provide a framework from which young drivers can safely enter the transportation industry. The AWC says the Safe Routes Act legislation will provide for safer and more efficient transportation of logs, pulpwood, wood chips and biomass. Additionally, the bipartisan bill Promoting Women in Trucking Workforce Act would require the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration to establish training and mentorship programs for women. Learn more at www.awc.org.

BUY A VISE, HELP A VETERAN

Wilton has joined with NAPA Auto Parts in a national, in-store promotion of Wilton’s Limited Edition 6-in. WS6 Shop Vise (63302IFH) in support of the nation’s Intrepid Fallen Heroes Fund (IFHF). For each Limited Edition vise sold during the July through September event, $5.00 will be donated to the care of military service members who suffer from the effects of traumatic brain injury (TBI) and post-traumatic stress (PTS). The total amount donated through the promotion is set at $25,000. The Wilton Limited Edition 6-in. WS6 Shop Vise is available at participating NAPA dealers.

Read our magazine online at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com

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STARTSMART ASK MATT QUESTION: Is it necessary to replace the jamb when upgrading an interior door?

ANSWER: For interiors, if your doorframe is in good shape, installing only a “’slab,” also called a “blank door,” should work because an interior door doesn’t need the same weather-tight seal as a pre-hung door that includes the jamb. You’ll need to measure the old door and buy a “blank” door the same standard size. Replacement usually requires you to measure the bottom of the new door and trim it down. You will need to mark and chisel out mortises to screw on the hinge plates, and you’ll need a drill plus a hole saw to install the lockset and doorknob.

QUESTION: I’m trying to determine board sizes and beam spans for a backyard deck. Can you clarify the meaning of “live” versus “dead” loads when designing the deck frame?

ANSWER: The concept of “load” in structural design generally falls into two major categories: dead loads and live loads, which are forces that cause stress or displacement to the structure and risk its failure.

The dead load of a structure comprises its completed weight before it goes into service. The floors, walls, roof, columns, stairs, permanent equipment and any fixed decor constitute a static load that normally doesn’t change over the life of the structure. In other words, the dead load is calculated before the structure takes on additional loads from occupancy or use (including the weight and movement of any people and components).

Live loads refer to the dynamic forces from occupancy and intended use. They represent the forces that can move through the building or act on any particular structural element. These loads include the anticipated weight of people, furniture, appliances, automobiles, moveable equipment and the like.

Because live loads depend on structural strength, it’s critical to know of the exact planned use of the structure—for example, whether the structure is a roof for a pergola or a deck intended to carry the weight of foot traffic.

To pass building code requirements, a structure must also be built to withstand dynamic lateral loads, which can come from wind, snow loads, soil movement and even seismic activity. H Need more info? Visit Matt’s blog at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com.

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SKILL SET

BASIC TRAINING FOR TRIM

DIY FUNDAMENTALS FOR TRIM AND MOLDING

By Carter Swift

Trimming out a room is a popular project for homeowners who want to accent lackluster ceilings, walls or windows. Along with traditional baseboards, chair rails, casings and crown moldings, a homeowner can consider options such as fireplace mantels, ceiling medallions, exterior enhancements and more.

Although a trim carpenter knows all the tricks of the trade, a DIY’er can accomplish a basic installation using the right tools, attention to detail, and a little advance research.

MATERIAL OPTIONS For interior trimwork, home-improvers have many options in materials.

MDF (medium-density fiberboard) is often the material of choice for DIY’ers because it’s less expensive than solid wood, it lays straight, resists warping, is easy to cut and simple to fasten. It’s usually available in long runs of

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Summer Issue

trim with no visible joints. However, due to the nature of MDF, you won’t find some of the same crisp profiles as real wood, plus the edges are relatively delicate, so it might not be the best choice for high-traffic areas which are more susceptible to damage.

Furthermore, water absorption (from prolonged exposure to a wet bathroom floor, for example) can cause MDF to swell and ruin.

Trim products made from finger-jointed wood present another tried-and-true alternative. This type of trim is widely used because it doesn’t have knots and imperfections like solid wood pieces can have.

Most home centers sell both MDF and finger-jointed trim pieces in factory-primed standard lengths.

An experienced carpenter can also fashion unique moldings made from solid woods, such as pine, poplar and maple. One advantage of solid wood is that it can be stained instead of painted to reveal the natural grain.

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SKILL SET Homeowners often upgrade the appearance of interior doors and windows with the elegant look of built-up trim. DIY’ers can combine layers of different moldings for a custom look or make use of prefabricated options like the new Craftsman Crosshead from Ornamental Decorative Millwork.

The one-piece prebuilt crosshead shown comes in five common widths and can be installed in less than 10 minutes. www.ornamental.com

Outdoor applications present another set of material options. To enhance a home’s curb appeal, window and door trim and corner wraps can really make your house stand apart, but the material must stand up to Mother Nature.

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An excellent choice for exterior trim, KDAT lumber indicates wood that is “kiln-dried after treatment,” which provides the benefits of composite material with real wood. After pressure treatment, KDAT products are placed in a large

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BASIC TRAINING FOR TRIM

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For outdoor curb appeal, these KDAT porch columns feature a hollow core which makes them lighter weight than solid posts, provides increased structural stability, and allows hidden electrical wiring. The columns are less likely to twist, are easier to install than solid timbers, and have strength ratings that rival more expensive PVC and composite options.

oven, or kiln, to remove moisture so the wood dries evenly. As a result, the KDAT lumber is more dimensionally stable, easier to handle, cut and install, and it weighs less than freshly treated lumber. Trim pieces can be made from dimensional boards such as 1x4, 2x2, 2x4,

5/4 thickness, as well as column wraps, which offer true square edges and are treated for ground contact. KDAT products are usually backed by a lifetime warranty. (Note: KDAT products must be primed and painted or stained upon installation.)

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SKILL SET Alternative materials for outdoor applications include trim products made from composites, urethane, and other synthetic materials such as PVC. These products are available in wide range of decorative shapes and profiles, including intricate shapes and complex stylings that would be very expensive and labor-intensive to produce with wood. Furthermore, synthetic trim doesn’t have wood’s maintenance problems for outdoor use. Synthetics and composites resist insects, cracking, peeling, chipping, swelling, splitting and rotting, making them ideal for exteriors and any areas exposed to moisture, like baseboards in a bathroom, or crown above a shower.

• 8-ft. ceiling: 3- to 5-in. drop • 9-ft. ceiling: 5- to 10-in. drop • 10- to 12-ft. ceiling: 10-to 20-in. drop • 16-ft. ceiling: 18- to 25-in. drop For baseboards, most heights run between 3-1/4 inches to 8 inches. Most designers choose the taller trims for rooms with taller walls. The most common retail sizes are 3-1/4 inches and 5-1/4 inches. Typically, baseboards are 5/8 inches thick and come in lengths up to 16-foot strips. If you plan for crown molding, its size should be factored into the selection of baseboard height so the overall décor looks proportional.

Synthetic moldings made from PVC or urethane perform well for outdoor applications because they resist insects, cracking, peeling, chipping, swelling, splitting and rotting.

SIZE MATTERS Trim that is too small or too large can detract from a room’s overall décor. Trim sizes should be selected based on proportion to a room’s height.

For example, crown molding that is too thin can make the room feel top-heavy, whereas molding that is too large can make the ceiling look like it’s encroaching down into the living space.

Here are the optimal sizes for the crown molding drop (distance from the ceiling to the lower edge of the crown) on various wall heights:

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Summer Issue

Chair rail size should also be considered when selecting baseboards. For example, in a small room, a 3-in. baseboard height may keep the most appealing amount of space between the baseboard and chair rail. However, in rooms with higher ceilings, taller baseboard may help bring everything together.

The easiest way to determine baseboard height is to purchase different sample sizes and bring them home. Place samples around the house to visualize how the baseboard will look

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BASIC TRAINING FOR TRIM

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Finish nails (left) are thicker than 18-gauge brad nail (right). Brad nails work best in thinner cuts of lumber, shoe molding, and small trim around windows or doors.

in your room. (Note: Also consider the tools you have at your disposal, because some taller baseboards cannot be cut using standard miter saws.)

KNOW YOUR FASTENERS When installing trim, first use a stud finder to mark the house framing (studs, floor and ceiling plates), then nail the trim pieces using fasteners long enough to extend 1 inch into solid wood.

Most pros install trim with a nail gun, and if you have an air compressor and a lot of trim-work in your future, you’ll find an air nailer to be a worthy time-saving investment. These days, you’re likely to find a cordless brad nailer which operates using the lithiumion battery you already own for other power tools.

When installing trim with a nail gun, you have the choice of a finish nailer or a brad nailer.

Although they look similar, brads are slightly thinner than finish nails. Nail gauge sizes indicate the thickness of the nail, and thinner nails have higher gauge numbers.

Brad nails are made of 18-gauge steel wire, and the thin diameter (and smaller head) makes them easy to mask with a filler in wood trim or paneling. The slender profile of brad nails helps to prevent the wood from splitting in delicate material. (If the nail gun doesn’t fire with adequate pressure, however, brads can bend on entry and damage the workpiece.) Brads work best in thinner cuts of lumber, small

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SKILL SET Brad nails in action: Pro installers use a combination of fasteners. For example, crown is typically nailed to the wall with 2-in. finishing nails, but the more delicate outside corners are usually fastened with 1-in. brad nails and glue.

trim around windows, shoe molding, as well as fiberboard and plywood.

Finish nails are generally made of 15- or 16-gauge steel wire, making them slightly thicker and more robust than brad nails. They create a stronger hold than brads, which makes finish nails more versatile and useful for heftier applications with thicker material, such as crown molding, chair rails, cabinets or baseboards.

However, the larger diameter of finish nails leaves a larger hole to conceal, and finish nails are more likely to split thin or delicate pieces of wood trim.

If you need to draw two pieces tightly together, you can skip the nails and use trim-head screws, such as the Fine Screws from U2 Fasteners. They offer

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Summer Issue

exceptional holding power but have a tiny head that’s easy to conceal with filler.

A high-quality adhesive is critical to use at every mating trim joint to ensure the best hold. A strong wood glue such as Titebond will work well when joining wood trim, but plastics or a synthetic material might require a polyurethane-based adhesive. Refer to the manufacturer’s indications to choose the right glue.

SAW SETUP The most versatile tool for cutting the linear strips of molding will be a powered miter saw with a quality blade.

The quantity of teeth plays a significant role in the blade’s performance. Blades best suited for rough work (such as ripping 2x stock lengthwise along the grain) have fewer teeth with large gullets for

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BASIC TRAINING FOR TRIM

easy chip removal. Blades meant for crosscutting boards into shorter lengths have more teeth with a smaller gullet for a smoother cut.

When cutting trim, an even higher number of teeth translates into smoother cuts for finish applications. The type of material is also a factor; for cutting PVC product HIR recommends using a carbide toothed blade with 80 teeth or more to prevent chipping. A blade designed specifically for trim-work can increase your cutting accuracy, which helps when mating the joints. A rough cut might require you to sand the cut smooth, but the act of sanding can alter the shape of the cut, so it may no longer fit perfectly during assembly. Spare yourself the frustration on trim projects and use fine-toothed blade intended for trim.

A miter saw’s reliability to cut an accurate angle should also be checked and maintained, because a little misalignment can cause major headaches for a carpentry project. Calibrating the saw is an

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Check the saw blade to make sure it cuts at a true 90-degree miter.

If the blade is misaligned, refer to the saw’s manual to adjust calibration, which often involves loosening set screws to reposition the blade angle.

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SKILL SET important step because a difference as small as 1° over a 1-in. span will result in a 1/32-in. gap in the finished miter joint.

Similarly, 3° over 5-in. span gives you a 3/8-in. gap. The misaligned pieces won’t join together tightly if the cuts have been made at an incorrect angle.

Miter Angle—A combination square makes a handy tool for confirming the saw blade’s miter alignment, ensuring the blade is set exactly at 90 degrees to the saw’s fence (which should register as 0 degrees on the saw blade’s angle indicator). There should be no gap between the edges of the square and the blade or fence.

If there is a gap, you’ll need to refer to your saw’s operation manual for specific steps on how to adjust the blade angle. To adjust alignment on the Bosch compound

For compound miter saws that can make bevel cuts, use a combination square to check bevel alignment and adjust if necessary.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Summer Issue

miter saw shown in the photos, I had to loosen four set screws with a hex key, move the table so the blade was a perfect 90 degrees to the fence, then retighten the screws. Once the blade aligned with the combo-square calibration check, I knew I could rely on my saw to cut accurate miter angles.

Bevel Angle—Compound miter saws offer a bevel adjustment feature which should also be calibrated. You can verify the vertical tilt of the blade by aligning the combo-square with the saw base and the blade. Check for any gaps between the square and the blade.

If the bevel requires adjustment, follow the steps in the owner’s manual, which usually requires loosening some set screws or bolts at the bevel post of the saw’s cutting head.

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BASIC TRAINING FOR TRIM

PAINTING AND FINISHING Most paint-grade trim products are sold preprimed. If your selection is not pre-primed, you might consider both priming and painting all the trim pieces before you install them. This will reduce the time you spend working on your knees (for baseboards) or a ladder (for crown molding) and limit your post-installation painting to touchup work.

Trim is usually top-coated with a semi-gloss or high-gloss paint sheen, which highlights the decorative shapes and shadow lines of the trim while it also protects the surface from grease and grime, making it easier to clean than a flatter paint sheen.

Use a paintable or color-matched caulk at all joints and the top and bottom of your crown and trim. A flexible or elastomeric caulk will best resist shrinking or cracking over time. To fill nail holes, use a shrink-free spackling. (Caulking nail holes will leave visible dimples.)

Trim Terms at a Glance Here are some common trim-carpentry terms you should know before you start.

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Use the right stuff. For long-term performance in new trim, stick with a high-quality elastomeric caulk to seal the joints, but to conceal nail holes, fill them with shrink-free vinyl spackling.

Baseboard molding hides gaps and imperfections at the floor-to-ceiling transition. Various sizes and profiles are available. Baseboards are generally fastened to the wall studs, footplate and wallboard with finish nails.

Chair rail is a horizontal molding often placed above wainscoting or used to divide two wall colors. Usually set near the height of chairs, its original purpose was to protect the wall from the scuffing of chair backs, but today it’s commonly used as a decorative element.

Crown molding covers the transition between the wall and ceiling. Available in many shapes and sizes, it can be installed as a simple trim profile or combined with other pieces of molding to produce elaborate architectural displays.

Casing is the trim that surrounds windows or doors and is available in options ranging from simple craftsman style trim to multipiece moldings and crossheads for a more elegant appearance.

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SKILL SET GET CREATIVE Don’t feel limited by the standard uses of trim profiles. Instead of crowning a wall, use crown molding to create skirting for a mantel shelf. Or, create a chair rail by combining upside-down baseboard capped with ogee molding.

Built-in bookshelves, bar areas, and fireplace mantels make great candidates for creative trim enhancements. You can combine multiple layers of molding for a larger, more complex profile. Shop around and think outside the box when selecting and designing your trim installations. H

Trim installation provides the opportunity to design creative molding combinations that can achieve a look and style all your own.

Quick Tips for Trim

LONG & SHORT— For long pieces of trim or molding, avoid nailing closer than 6 inches to the board ends until it’s time to fasten the joint. For short trim pieces, you can avoid nails and just glue the joint and/or use adhesive behind the board.

CUT WITH CARE—When cutting the molding or trim to length, make the first cut at 1/2 inch into the waste side of the board, and then approach the cutline with small cuts until you reach your length mark.

USE GLUE FOR FEWER HOLES—You can reduce the number of nail holes to fill by installing the trim using fewer fasteners and relying more on construction glue.

MARK IN PLACE—When possible, mark your trim pieces in place on the wall rather than taking measurements and transferring those measurements to the work piece. This saves time and reduces errors that can happen when transferring the measurements.

SHIMS ARE YOUR FRIENDS—On door and window casings, uneven drywall or plaster surrounding the door can prevent the casing from laying flat against the wall. To keep the trim boards aligned flush with each other, use shims inserted behind a recessed piece to push it forward until the joint is smooth, nail in place, then cut off the excess shim material and conceal it with caulk.

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BASIC TRAINING FOR TRIM

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How to Skip the Miters on Casing If assembling mitered corners absolutely gives you the fits, consider simplifying window and door casing by incorporating pre-made rosette blocks at the corners. Rosette blocks assemble with simple butt joints against square cross-cuts, so there’s no need to measure, cut, and join miter angles. The blocks are carved from solid wood or MDF, usually 3/4-in. thick, and the standard 3-1/2-in. block works well with 1x4 trim or 3-1/4-in. moldings. Install them with glue, finish with a little caulk and paint, and the blocks can add a decorative touch to the corners.

Cover Your Old Trim Looking for a fast way to upgrade baseboard or crown molding? The CoverTrim product from Ornamental Decorative Millwork offers a unique solution with a line of molding designed to install over existing moldings.

Made of medium density fiberboard (MDF), CoverTrim comes primed and ready to paint.

Available transition blocks and spacers make installation easy.

Each piece of CoverTrim is 5-1/4” high, and adhesive-backed spacers act as a buffer between the face of the old molding and the new.

Available nationwide through The Home Depot and Wayfair, CoverTrim products are made in America.

Visit www.ornamental.com

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BASIC TRAINING FOR TRIM

Learning to Cope When installing baseboards or crown molding, it's tough to avoid miters on outside corners, but for inside corners, you have the option to make a cope joint. Although joining two 45-degree miters may give you a 90-degree joint, a square joint may not work well for corners that are out of square. Even a perfect miter joint can end up developing gaps when the wood dries and contracts in winter. Unlike miter joints, cope joints have one trim piece butted against the adjacent wall at the corner. The mating trim piece is carefully cut with a coping saw to nest against the profile of the first. These joints work well for out-of-square corners and are less likely to reveal a gap when the wood shrinks.

STEP 1: Butt the first piece of molding into the corner of the room and fasten in place.

STEP 2: On the intersecting end of the second piece of molding, cut a 45-degree inside miter. Use a carpenter’s pencil to darken the edge of the mitered profile for better visibility.

STEP 3: Clamp the second piece of molding to a work surface and use the coping saw to cut along the pencil line. Angle the blade to back-cut the molding. Keep the blade about 1/16 inch to the waste side of the cutline.

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STEP 6: Nail and/or glue the molding into place and finish by caulking the seam.

STEP 7: Proceed around the room to complete the installation, using the installation sequence shown in the diagram.

STEP 4: When most of the wood is removed, use a file or sanding block to finish the cut and clean up the profile, revealing a shaped edge that will be the only point of contact between the intersecting pieces of molding.

STEP 5: Test-fit the molding against the first piece and make adjustments as necessary.

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SKILL SET

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DECKED OUT WITH A

DRINK RAIL

By Matt Weber

A DRINK RAIL MATCHES THE DECK'S MAIN COLOR, AND OFFERS GUESTS A SPACIOUS SURFACE ON WHICH TO SET THEIR DRINKS.

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DECKED OUT WITH A DRINK RAIL

The new wraparound deck at Martinez home in Hoover, Alabama, makes a great place to relax and entertain guests. When it came time to design the deck’s railing system, a drink rail was a natural fit.

To build any sort of guardrail system for a deck, you must start with a strong post foundation. Pressure-treated 4x4 posts are often used as the “bones” of the system, whether they’re left uncovered or they serve as a core post for decorative sleeves made of vinyl or composite material.

For a strong post connection, HIR recommends fastening the post bottom within the deck frame perimeter using two 1/2-inch galvanized through-bolts with washers driven through the joist framing and the full thickness of the post.

To bolster this connection, you can opt for a post-to-deck metal bracket, such as that manufactured by Simpson Strong-Tie or DeckLok. These metal brackets fasten to

the through-bolts and connect flush to an adjacent framing member with galvanized screws. If the posts don’t line up next to an adjacent joist, then you may have to install blocking to provide a fastening surface. Using the metal brackets takes a little more time, money and effort, but this stronger connection will ensure the posts stay safe and sturdy.

Always check with your local building codes for specific guidance on what is acceptable guardrail post connections in your area.

To install a rail system at the Martinez home, the crew from Canopy Construction notched the 4x4 posts to connect over the rim joists, trapping the lower portion inside the framing where they were toe-nailed and anchored with structural screws into the joist.

On this project, the crew installed composite rails with metal balusters. The posts can be cut to fit using a fine-tooth saw blade to avoid chipping. (A carbide finish blade is recommended.)

A strong post connection is critical for a deck rail. Lateral anchors such as the DeckLok hardware from Screw Products Inc. will resist a force of 500 lbs. at a point 36" above the surface of the deck (which meets the IBC Code).

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PUT YOUR PERSONAL STAMP ON THE FOCAL POINT OF YOUR KITCHEN

Components of the system used on this project; image © Timbertech

These days, a wide range of kit-built systems are available from a number of manufacturers.

A kit system’s predetermined measurements and fastening locations greatly simplify the assembly and installation of a deck rail. Once the posts are properly aligned, spaced and firmly fastened in place, the remaining components are easy to put together.

The required components for each rail section generally include a Hardware Kit, Rail Pack, Baluster Pack, Post Sleeves, Post Skirts, and Post Caps. Stair parts are also available. Determine how many 6- or 8-ft. sections you need and make sure you have all the components.

Note that on this project, the homeowner wanted to forgo post caps in favor of the drink rail, which is a continuous composite cap on the rail that covers the posts and is broad and flat enough to hold a beverage.

with a sleeve skirt that hides any fasteners at the bottom.

To ensure a level base for the drink rail that will eventually cap the posts, the builders fastened a level string line from corner post to corner post, which provided a guide to ensure all the posts were cut to the same height.

On this project, the installers pre-assembled the remaining components and installed them as panels between the posts.

To do so, first measure each section between the posts. Before cutting the rails to length, determine your baluster spacing. Decide whether the rail will be cut with a baluster in the center,

PANEL INSTALLATION After the posts are installed square and plumb, the first step in assembly is to cut the post sleeves to length. The composite sleeves shown are made by Timbertech, and they were nailed in place, then decorated

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DECKED OUT WITH A DRINK RAIL

The crew from Canopy Building Company installed the 4x4 treated posts notched over the rim joists with the post ends trapped beneath the deck boards. The posts were nailed in place and anchored within the deck framing using flat-head structural screws. Always consult local building codes for specific guidance in your area.

or if the rail’s midpoint will be halfway between two balusters. This will ensure symmetrical layout of the balusters within each panel.

Make sure both the top and bottom rails are cut to the same length.

Next, measure and mark all baluster locations (with maximum 4-in. center spacing), then predrill the rails if necessary. Make sure the holes match on the top and bottom rails. Many kit systems include rails premanufactured with baluster holes, which eliminates the need to predrill the fasteners.

Fasten the balusters by driving exteriorgrade screws through the rails. The balusters

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usually include screw holes or threaded connectors that insert into their ends.

Next, attach the mounting brackets to the rail ends with the included screws.

On the bottom rails, screw on the Foot Blocks included with the rails.

For sections up to 6 feet, use two Foot Blocks evenly spaced. For 8-ft. sections use three blocks to provide support that prevents any bending or sagging of the rail sections.

Make sure the rail panels are centered on each post, and attach them through the mounting backets with coated screws.

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The Timbertech post sleeves slip over the 4x4 posts. Install them flush and square and fasten them in place where the nails will be hidden by the rails. The bottoms are decorated with post skirts. On the project shown, a string-line guided the post height, which would later be capped with the drink rail.

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DECKED OUT WITH A DRINK RAIL

The installers pre-assembled the panels using Timbertech composite rails and metal balusters.

Mounting clips are fastened to the ends of the rails and then screwed into the posts to install the pre-assembled panels.

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The last step is the addition of the composite drink rail, which matches the composite deck boards.

The resulting kit-built system not only streamlines the installation process, but it minimizes visible fasteners, offers rock-solid stability, and adds a neat, finished appearance to the outdoor space.

Shop around for deck rail systems and components to see what makes sense for your home. You’ll find lots of infill options,

including a large selection of baluster styles, glass panels and cable-based systems, and even integrated lighting packages that brighten the night. H

Compared to a traditional wood guardrail, a quality kit-built rail system streamlines the installation process, reduces visible fasteners, and offers rock-solid stability.

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DECKED OUT WITH A DRINK RAIL Hidden Fasteners for your Deck of Choice

When installing traditional square-edge decking, achieve a fastener-free surface and have an easy install with the CAMO Marksman System.

The system includes CAMO Edge Screws, driver bits, and Marksman tools that space the boards and guide the screws into the edge for a hidden finish. For pressuretreated decking installs, use the Marksman Pro-X1 that creates a 1/16-in. gap. For composite, PVC, capped composite, cedar, redwood, hardwood, and kiln-dried pressure-treated decking, use the Marksman Pro that creates a 3/16-in. gap.

Installing deck boards with grooved edges? CAMO Edge Clips are ideal for installing grooved boards in a 90-degree deck pattern. They stay in place on the joist with no partial installation, so you can place multiple rows of boards and clips before fastening.

EDGE Clips create 3/16-in. spacing between boards and are stronger than other clips thanks to the stainless-steel gusset that holds boards down. Everything you need for installation is in the pail, including a T-15 bit and Never-Miss Guide for quick fastening. Visit www.camofasteners.com.

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A FRAMELESS GLASS HANDRAIL PROVIDES AN UNINTERRUPTED VIEW OF THE OUTDOORS.

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NICE VIEW

By Matt Weber

A glass rail system is among the more modern trends in deck and patio design. A frameless design with no upper or lower horizontal rail can maximize the view from home almost like having no railing at all.

The glass panels are suspended between posts or supported from below by clamps without the need of horizontal rails. Used for years in commercial architecture, glass rail systems are now available as all-inclusive kits for DIY installation, or clamps and panels can be purchased separately for a custom design.

Since glass doesn’t bend and flex with the same forgiveness as a wooden handrail, a strong foundation is a must for glass panels. A big advantage of using a kit system is that metal posts and hardware will be included to keep the panels stationary, plus all the measuring and alignment will be prefigured and easier to assemble.

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If you choose to design your own system, it’s still a good idea to use metal posts which won’t swell, shrink, twist or bend, or to use securely installed wooden or composite posts, as shown on the balcony guardrail in our photos.

On custom projects, the posts should be installed before you order the glass, so you’ll be able to take the exact measurements for the panels.

When designing your project, it’s a good idea to draw a sketch, indicating where the railing runs will be. Measure the railing runs carefully and note the measurements on the sketch. Record each run individually to account for any difference in spacing from post to post.

Be sure to make note of any post collars or associated trim that might interfere with the panels.

In general, the glass panels should be positioned so the gap between the panel edge and post is equal on both ends.

The gap at the ends is typically around

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NICE VIEW!

Stephenson suggests that custom installers compare costs when shopping for glass clamps.

“Some of the glass clamps we found were very expensive,” explains Stephenson, who installed this custom balcony rail at the Laney residence in Birmingham, Alabama. “We actually found the best deals online and purchased our clamps on eBay.” (Note: Search the terms “glass clamp bracket for handrail.”)

The stainless steel glass clamps used on this installation hold glass panels between two rubber pads that help absorb movement and prevent scratching the glass. A hex key (or Allen wrench) is used to loosen or tighten screws which adjust the clamping pressure.

The clamps do not corrode or rust, meaning they can be used in any climate. Make sure to order the right sized glass clamp to install a glass panel of the respective thickness.

Calculate how many clamps you’ll require for each panel and add them all together to determine your order. Ordering a few extra clamps is a good idea. On the project shown, clamps were installed along the bottom and sides, with clamps located near each corner and spaced 18 to 20 inches apart.

“Be careful with the corners,” suggests Stephenson to anyone installing a similar system. “The corners are the Achilles heel of glass panels.”

On the project shown, the Stephenson team first installed the clamps with plywood panels, which enabled them to test and

3 inches but can vary depending on application. As a safety precaution, the maximum gap between the posts and panels should be 4 inches.

Your glass supplier might offer panels in standard heights (such as 36 or 42 inches), but for custom panels, you’ll need to provide their exact linear measurements, and this will depend in part on the size of the clips you’ve chosen. The glass panels should be at least 3/8 inch or thicker.

A variety of kits and glass clamps are available in-store and online. Pro remodeler Randy

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perfect placement of the clamps and provide a safety barrier to the balcony while the glass panels were on order from the supplier.

INSTALLATION STEPS 1. To begin the project, measure and mark placement of the glass clamps. Snap a chalk line to help guide a straight installation.

2. Secure attachment of the clamps is absolutely critical to the system. For the bottom clamps, which were set in tile, Caleb Stephenson predrilled holes for plastic masonry anchors.

3. Once the plastic sleeves were hammered into place, the plastic rim that projected up from the tile prevented the glass clamps from sitting perfectly flush on the tile.

4. By cutting off the plastic anchor flush with the tile, the clamp was able to fasten tightly to the surface.

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NICE VIEW! 5

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5. Start off by disassembling your glass clamp.

6. One half of the clamp contains the base, which should be secured tightly in place with the appropriate fastener.

7. The vertical side clamps should also be measured and marked.

8. Stainless steel screws that anchor 2 inches into solid wood will make a secure connection for the side clamps. Avoid over-tightening the screws.

9. The first half of the clamps creates a bracketing surface to support the panels. Install the bracket as close to plumb as possible.

Once all the first-half brackets are in place, apply the rubber pads to the clamps, then fit the panels against the brackets.

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10. Apply the second half of the rubber-backed clamps and tighten in place.

11. Repeat the procedure for each run of railing.

12. Shown here is a closeup of a glass clamp assembled with two hex-head screws.

13. Once the glass arrives, installation will require at least two people to lift and maneuver the heavy panels.

14. Place two short 2×4 or 4×4 wood pieces on the deck surface and use them to help secure the glass during installation.

15. Loosely apply all the clamp brackets before tightening the compression. Tip: Window cleaner may help ease glass panels into the mounting clamps when adjusting the fit.

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NICE VIEW! 16. Use the “micro-adjustment screw” to fine-tune the clamp compression.

17. Double-check the railing measurements and match them to your panels to complete installation of the glass rail system.

Once the project is finished, you’ll enjoy a truly uninterrupted view from your balcony, deck or patio.

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H 16

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SUREDRIVE.COM

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JOB ESSENTIALS

RYOBI 40V HP BRUSHLESS WHISPER SERIES JET FAN BLOWER

www.ryobitools.com The Ryobi 40V HP Brushless WHISPER Series Jet Fan Blower (model RY404100VNM) delivers peak performance at 730 CFM and up to 190 MPH. Innovative noise-reduction technology allows this blower to deliver all the power without the noise at only 57 decibels.

Advanced lithium-ion technology delivers up to 2 hours of runtime using the two included 40V 4-Ah Batteries. Cordless convenience means no mixing gas and oil, no maintenance, and no more hassle starting the unit. Simply plug in a battery and pull the trigger to unleash incredible power without the noise. The new 40V Blower has a cruise control feature that reduces user fatigue, allowing you to dial in performance from 250 CFM to 550 CFM. Unleash the full potential of this blower with the featured turbo button delivering up to 730 CFM, or exercise complete control with the variable speed trigger for clearing delicate areas like mulch beds. This blower comes with two speed tips, enabling you to modify the blower to achieve between 160MPH and 190 MPH of clearing force. The blower is backed by a 5-year warranty and will be available exclusively at The Home Depot.

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BOSCH JOBSITE RADIOS

www.boschtools.com Bosch Power Tools announced two new iterations of its jobsite radio. The GPB18V-5C offers convenience and flexibility with four 120V AC power outlets to power lights, tools, electronics and more. Four-way speakers with integrated subwoofer create high-quality, powerful stereo sound that projects in all directions. The rugged design provides a protective aluminum and rubber roll cage built to last on the toughest jobsites.

The GPB18V-2C is the compact version of the jobsite radio built with the same quality and durability.

For environments where portability is key, this compact radio features handles and a hanging hook, along with a dust- and moisture-resistant design.

Both radios have several ways to connect and listen to music, including Bluetooth 5.0 providing connection to music streaming services or stored songs via mobile device. Both run on Bosch’s 18V Lithium-ion batteries or included AC/DC adapter. With USB charging capability, mobile devices will stay charged and ready at all times.

PASLODE CORDLESS XP FRAMING NAILER

www.paslode.com Paslode’s newest model Cordless XP Framing Nailer, model CFN325XP (#906300), is engineered, built, and tested with the pro in mind to get the job done right.

“Our research identified four opportunities for improvement,” explains Morgan Manning, Paslode senior product manager. “Increased efficiency of loading nails, redesigned grip for better comfort and control, improved performance when rapid-firing nails, and easy battery removal.

All of these features have been added to this new model, solving the pro’s key pain points.”

The Paslode Cordless XP is a fuel-powered system that drives 9,000 nails per battery charge and 1,200 nails per fuel cell to keep you productive all day. It comes with a rear-load magazine with a bypass follower for faster nail loading—just load and pull. The new model is the lightest cordless framing nailer on the market at 7.2 lbs., up to four pounds lighter than the competition, and its new texturized padded grip provides extra comfort and control.

The nailer features a longer fan run-time, keeping the tool cool especially during rapid firing. Its fuel system drives nails flush into LVL and other hard lumber. Other features include a tool-free adjustable depth of drive and an adjustable rafter belt hook that can rotate for either right- or lefthanded users. A nail lock-out mechanism engages when five nails are left in the magazine to signal that reloading is necessary and help prevent premature driver blade wear.

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WORX NITRO 20V DRILL-DRIVER & 20V IMPACT DRIVER COMBO

www.worx.com The new WORX Nitro 20V Drill-Driver and 20V Impact Driver Combo features brushless motors that deliver 25 percent more power and run 50 percent longer than conventional brushed motors. The maintenance-free, brushless motors run cooler with less friction and heat buildup, which results in more efficient and dependable operation, as well as longer service life.

The Nitro 20V Drill-Driver is equipped with a heavy-duty, 1/2-in. ratcheting metal chuck for superior bit retention. It utilizes all-metal gears with two-speed gearing and 18+1 clutch positions that enable selection of the best speed and torque for the job at hand.

The WORX Nitro 20V Impact Driver is the tool of choice for more demanding jobs, such as building decks, swing sets, fences, benches and picnic tables. It has a 1/4-in. hex chuck for fast bit changes and no slippage.

Three speed ranges of 0-900; 0-2400 and 03000 no-load rpm enable the driver to handle a wide range of applications. Corresponding impact rates are 0-1200; 0-3300 and 0-4000 impacts-per-minute (ipm). A built-in electronic digital keypad provides speed/impact selections. With 2300 in.-lbs. of torque, the driver can manage the most demanding jobs.

DURASEIN

Durasein.com Durasein produces solid surfacing materials that are composed of two-thirds natural minerals and one-third high-performance acrylic resin and pigments. Where Durasein sets itself apart from the competition is a unique color palette, customization capabilities like their multiple variable-width production lines, in-house fabrication and shapes manufacturing teams, plus a crew of color designers and material scientists that assist clients in creating their own custom colors, patterns, and collections. The company serves as a creative partner, not simply a manufacturer. Solid surface materials are easy to clean, and stain- and chemical-resistant. Durasein is renewable, repairable, recyclable and reusable. The surface is safe for food, non-toxic, non-porous, anti-bacterial, low VOC, mold/mildew resistant, and backed by a 10-year warranty.

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WEATHER SHIELD VUE WINDOWS AND DOORS www.weathershield.com/vue-collection Weather Shield’s new VUE Collection of all-aluminum windows and patio doors provides sophisticated design with ultra-narrow profiles and large spans of glass, which seamlessly connect living spaces with the outdoor environment.

“The VUE Collection is uniquely flexible,” says Chris Schield, Vice President of Product Marketing, Weather Shield. “We set out to create an offering that’s highly customizable with features and options well matched to the custom home market.” Options include three distinct glazing beads and a range of anodized and AAMA 2605-rated paint finishes.

The VUE Collection’s innovative frame design connects windows and doors to create large ribbons of glass in one-of-a-kind configurations. The collection maximizes thermal and structural performance and exceeds the most stringent energy codes. Casement, Awnings, Direct-Sets and Multi-Slide Doors in the collection will be released to select markets this summer. Additional products will be available in 2022.

OWENS CORNING PINK NEXT GEN FIBERGLAS INSULATION www.owenscorning.com Fiberglass insulation has a reputation for irritating the skin during insulation—but what if it felt as soft as cotton? That’s a big selling point of the new Owens Corning PINK Next Gen Fiberglas Insulation.

It's made with advanced fiber technology for a superior texture that resists shedding and feels like cotton—good news for pro tradesmen or DIY installers. PINK Next Gen Fiberglas is designed to be the new standard in insulation thanks to a 23-percent faster installation time. The material recovers instantly, cuts and splits cleanly, glides in easily and stays put in the cavity, helping deliver inspection-ready results in less time. The Pink Next Gen advanced fiber technology fills cavities completely without fluffing or compression to leave a smooth, uniform surface. H

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INSTALL A BATHROOM FAUCET

By Matt Weber New faucets can add style to interior décor; newer ones even conserve water for lower utility bills. Choose from such finishes as chrome, oil-rubbed bronze, brushed nickel and more, in modern designs or traditional styling. Faucet installation is fairly straightforward, but cramped space and poor visibility beneath a sink can be confusing for first-timers.

Here’s an example, using the parts of a faucet designed for 4-inch center sets of faucet levers).

Remove the faucet; it should pull right out, but you may need to break the seal of old caulk.

[STEP 4]

Scrub away any remaining old sealant or putty with a degreasing product.

[STEP 5]

Place a bead of plumber’s putty along the edge of the plastic gasket that fits between the sink and faucet. Apply the gasket to the sink.

[STEP 1]

Shut off the water supply, then use a wrench to unscrew the supply lines and wing nuts beneath the faucet levers.

[STEP 6]

Insert the shanks of the new faucet through the sink and secure them with new wing nuts.

[STEP 2]

Unscrew the cap of the drain’s lift rod so the faucet will slip over it.

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[STEP 3]

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[STEP 7]

Unhook the old pop-up drain cover from the lift lever in the drain pipe and pull it out.

[STEP 8]

Remove drain by unscrewing the retaining nut from the drain assembly with a wrench or pliers.

[STEP 9]

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Apply plumber’s putty beneath the lip of the new drain cap, and seat the cap into the sink.

[STEP 10]

The drain assembly mating component installs from beneath the sink with a rubber gasket. Apply plumbing sealant to it before installing.

[STEP 11]

Connect the drain and gasket to the drain cap from below with a new retaining nut.

[STEP 12]

Position the drain pipe with the lift-lever hole facing the rear.

Screw the pipe in place using thread-seal tape.

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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Late Summer Issue

[STEP 13]

Thread the lift rod in through the top of the new faucet.

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INSTALL A BATHROOM FAUCET [STEP 14]

Drop in the new drain cover.

[STEP 15]

Install the adjustable extension arm to the lift rod of the drain cap. The lift rod connects with a simple thumb screw.

[STEP 16]

Install the lift lever in the drain.

The short end of the lever (near the ball) inserts through the hook at the bottom of the new drain cap. The ball is secured in the drain pipe with a nut.

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[STEP 17]

Thread the lever’s long end through whichever hole in the extension arm will allow easiest operation of the drain assembly.

Reconnect the sink drain onto the P-trap with a coupling nut, and then reconnect the water supply lines. The new faucet should now be ready for use.

H Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in ‘The Quick and Easy Home DIY Manual’ by Matt Weber, published by Weldon Owen and currently available at Amazon.com.

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