GMT GCC - N4 - DUBAI WATCH WEEK EDITION, 2023.

Dubai Watch Week New timepieces in the city

Young brands Biver and Furlan Marri look to the future

Portfolio

The UAE’s jewellery scene In-depth with Bulgari

Lifestyle

Reservoir

Where to buy, eat, spa and stay this season

Reservoir x Popeye Cricket

04

GMT GCC I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES GCC EDITION I Q4 2023 I ENGLISH

9 771660

110613 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

1

2

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

1

2

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

3

fail or prevail but

make it bold

4

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

fail or prevail but

make it bold

Kanister

Airfight chronograph

reservoir -watch.com

reservoir -watch.com

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

5

6

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

7

Editorial Q4 2023

Creative evolution

O

ne of the themes that cropped

Bridging past and present, the UAE-

and more. Check out our website gmtgcc.com

up repeatedly during the crea-

based jewellery designers that share their

for the latest updates on the year’s must-see

tion of this winter edition of

stories of creativity and vision with us this

event and stay informed about the culture

GMT GCC was just how much

edition are adamant that the UAE offers the

of innovation, creativity and ‘must have’

appreciation for fine watchmaking and

ideal blend of heritage and innovation for

new timepieces.

jewellery has flourished and evolved in the

their growth.

UAE and across the region.

Our cover star is one of the many leading

“The UAE has a rich and diverse cultural

lights of watchmaking that joined Ahmed

At the heart of this deepening love affair

heritage, and at the same time it’s very cos-

Seddiqi & Sons for Dubai Watch Week this

with all aspects of the watch industry is

mopolitan, especially in Dubai where we

November, and what a ‘pop’ of joyful crea-

a family business whose commitment to

operate from,” Pamela Bayram, founder of

tivity their new watch represents: concep-

strengthening the bonds between Switzer-

jewellery brand Oria, tells Rachel Silvestri.

tualised to introduce Reservoir Watches to

land and the GCC spans more than 70 years.

“Because of that multicultural population

the Indian market with a cricket-themed

With Dubai Watch Week unfurling for the

I wasn’t restricted in creating designs —

limited edition watch, the piece nods to

sixth time as GMT GCC went to press, our

quite the contrary.” UAE jewellery brands

Gérald Genta’s playful ‘80s Mickey watches

teams here in the Middle East as well as

inspired by the desert landscape, cultural

while pushing aesthetic boundaries courte-

in Geneva were on tenterhooks to see what

mix and cosmopolitan city life are pushing

sy of everyone’s favourite cartoon sailor.

surprises and delights the leading event in

creativity to new heights — and it’s no sur-

“There’s an increased place for innovation

our region would reveal. It’s testament to

prise to learn that, with the long-awaited

in the watch industry and that brings light

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons that so many Swiss

Dubai Watch Week in full swing, the Emi-

to independent brands,” CEO and founder

brands choose to present global launches

rates continues to be a source of inspira-

François Moreau tells Jola Chudy.

during Dubai Watch Week, and how many

tion, drawing the Swiss watch industry en

Independence, creative vision and limit-

of them create limited edition pieces espe-

masse to Dubai for a week of horology-the-

less potential: it’s a great time to be a watch

cially for our connoisseurs based here.

med networking, panels, global launches

and jewellery lover in the Middle East. As we segue into the end of the year and a time for gifting and celebrating, I hope you find ample inspiration, pause for thought and

DUBAI WATCH WEEK page 44

entertaining moments within these pages.

Enjoy the issue — we’ll be back in 2024!

JOLA CHUDY I Editor-in-Chief @jolaruns jola@gmtgcc.com

8

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

BIG BANG UNICO BIG BANG UNICO Boîtier en titane et céramique bleue.

Mouvement Boîtier en titane chronographe et céramique manufacture. bleue.UNICO Mouvement chronographe UNICO manufacture.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

9

Contributors Drawing talent from an international pool of professionals, the following specialist watch industry writers and editors have made expert contributions to this edition of GMT GCC.

OLIVIER MÜLLER

BRICE LECHEVALIER

An entrepreneur at heart, the founder of GMT magazine and Editor-in-Chief of the Swiss and international editions is always brimming with new ideas. He nurtures an unbridled passion for watchmaking that he conveys to readers through his insightful articles.

Olivier Müller is a professional luxury journalist and consultant.

He divides his time between Geneva and Paris, covering horology-related topics for a dozen or so magazines and specialist websites in Europe.

He is also a regular speaker at various events and the author of several reference books.

YANNICK NARDIN

Yannick, a watch enthusiast for the past 15 years, runs her own editorial office. She likes to vary approaches and viewpoints and is driven by curiosity, always eager to delve into new topics.

CHRISTOPHE ROULET

AISHA JIBRIN CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

MARIE DE PIMODAN

When she’s not out in the field meeting industry players, visiting a manufacture or discovering a new product, you’ll find this expert watch journalist at GMT Publishing, writing an article for the magazine or for WorldTempus.

This experienced watchmaker knows the workings of the watch industry inside out. For GMT, he writes the Test Bench section. The principle? Wear a watch for a week and analyze it from every angle so as to deliver a precise technical and aesthetic assessment.

A vital and cherished member of the GMT team, this issue Aisha takes us on a whistlestop tour of Dubai’s most luxe high teas, as well as counting down the top spots to indulge in some festive flavours.

From trade fairs to factories and vice versa, this freelance journalist has been living at the pace of the watch industry for some 20 years and remains as passionate as ever about what makes it tick, from development phases right the way through to the financial results it generates.

JOLA CHUDY

Jola Chudy is Editor-in-Chief of GMT GCC as well as an ultrarunner, sports brand ambassador and founder of her own communications agency. With a special place in her heart reserved for fine watchmaking, Jola is a talented storyteller who is equally at ease surrounded by the world’s most beautiful watches as she is crossing inhospitable desert dunes on foot. In this edition, Jola delves into the fun and sporty world of Reservoir.

10

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

RACHEL SILVESTRI

A writer and editor whose career has taken her to every continent on the planet — as well as inside some of Swiss watchmaking’s most sacred spaces — as Managing Editor Rachel is tickled pink to bring her horological knowledge to GMT GCC. Her deep-seated passion for all things fine jewellery and the UAE come together in this issue to tell the story of the local scene.

DAVID CHOKRON

A specialised watch journalist based in Paris, David still finds himself amazed and blown away by the power, poetry and ingenuity of watchmaking. He nonetheless favours a reasonable and pragmatic approach by focusing on the technical quality and ergonomics of the watches he reveals in his articles.

KUNLE AGBOOLA

GMT GCC’s design whizzkid Kunle is responsible for the distinctive look and feel of this publication, and no task is ever too much for him. The man behind this month’s cover design, his creative genius knows no bounds — no matter how far we push his patience on deadline!

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

11

Contents Q4 2023

TECH INSIGHTS 09 EDITORIAL 10 CONTRIBUTORS 14 COVER STORY: Time Unleashed! Reservoir x Popeye

20 NEWS

SPECIALS

36 TECH INSIGHTS: Grand Seiko

30 WATCH CONNOISSEUR PROJECT GROUP

96 ICON: Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut

40 TEST BENCH: TAG Heuer

34 ALL THE GPHG WINNERS 44 DUBAI WATCH WEEK 54 JEWELLERY IN THE UAE

40

76 FATHER AND SON: Biver 88 BULGARI SAGA 98 IN THE MIX: Furlan Marri

106

102 THE SHOW MUST GO ON: Only Watch 116 GENEVA WATCH DAYS

14

96

NEW RELEASES 48 DUBAI WATCH WEEK’S NOVELTIES 106 THE BEST OF THE AUTUMN RELEASES

54

88

118 128

LIFESTYLE

48

80 ON MY WATCH: with Ainsley Duncombe and Adil Anwar 84 CONCORSO D’ELEGANZA 122 RESORT LIVING

Imprint

124 FESTIVE DINING 126 SPA HAVENS 128 SEASONAL GIFTING GUIDE 132 ZOOM: Geneva Watch Days 136 ZOOM: Breitling’s new launch 138 ZOOM: Hublot’s return to the Premier League 140 ZOOM: TFWA World Exibition in Cannes 144 HEADLINER 12

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

138

Magazine GMT GCC no 4 The magazine of the 12th Art, reflects the spirit of haute horlogerie since the year 2000. GCC Edition from 2022. Printed edition: 15,000 copies in English Publisher: Deremi Ajidahun daa@gmtgcc.com Administration & Edition : HNZ Group UAE Directors : Deremi Ajidahun & Bi Feuser-Ajidahun Marketing, Distribution & Sales Manager : Aisha Jibrin aisha@gmtgcc. com Tel: +971 52 439 5020 Layout : ODA Studio info@odaverse.com Print Production Manager : Engr. Ahmed Al Sharif Printed by : Imprint Printing Press UAE © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT GCC is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

13

Cover story JOLA CHUDY

Time unleashed!

François Moreau is the founder and CEO of Reservoir Watches, a brand founded on boldness, creativity and passion. Never afraid to stand out from the crowd or push boundaries, Reservoir’s colourful creations are capturing the attention of watch connoisseurs all around the world. Stopping for a moment in time, the founder shares some of his thoughts on watchmaking with GMT GCC’s editor-in-chief, Jola Chudy.

“Boldness” means overcoming conventionalities, such as reading the time with one hand, instead of three.’’

GMT GCC: Colourful, audacious and conversation-starting, the

Reservoir watches have a signature time-telling feature cour-

Popeye watch was designed to stand out in the crowd — even a

tesy of the retrograde hands; a nod to motorsport and cars — a

crowd as large as those gathering to watch cricket! What drew

rich vein for storytelling and authenticity. What are some of

the Reservoir team to combining this cartoon character with

the vehicles that have ‘driven’ inspiration at Reservoir?

India’s favourite sport?

Yes, we love cars at Reservoir. The first inspirations came from the

François: The idea came when we thought about introducing the

dashboards of German cars from the 80s, such as Audi. They used a

brand in India in Q4 2023. Cricket is extremely popular in India,

specific font for the speedometer or the engine running indicator.

and introducing the brand with a cricket limited edition towards

The instructions are very legible, clear, the information is easy to

local watch lovers was an interesting move. Hence, the Reservoir

read, and everything is to the point. This inspiration is found in

X Popeye Cricket watch captures the very essence of competition

the GT Tour collection. Another source of inspiration was the Mini

and camaraderie that cricket sets ablaze in every nook and cranny

Cooper of the 1960s: a speed and gear ratio indicator in the center

F

of India.

of the dashboard with a very specific design. We find this source of inspiration in the Longbridge collection. Finally, a third source of

rançois Moreau is a visionary leader and a driving force in the realm of horologi-

14

cal innovation. His boundless enthusiasm for asking ‘why not?’ has propelled

What prompted the collection of cartoon-inspired timepieces?

inspiration is the Porsche 356 speedster from the 1950s. The car was

Reservoir to the forefront of the most exciting brands in watchmaking today.

We are inspired by the bold gesture of Gérald Genta in the ‘80s

a model of its kind in terms of meter design: a particular font for

Renowned for their distinctive design inspired by dashboard instruments, Res-

when doing retrograde minutes with Mickey or Scrooge McDuck,

the numbers, a fine graphic aesthetic, and a particular pastel blue

ervoir timepieces merge timeless elegance with cutting-edge engineering. The brand’s

the fundamental being delivering an engineered mechani-

colour. This inspiration is found in the Kanister collection.

commitment to craftsmanship is evident in each meticulously crafted watch, where

cal Swiss-made watch without taking it too seriously. Re-inter-

intricate details and innovative features coalesce to redefine the art of timekeeping. Res-

preting this creative idea nowadays is a true challenge, as you

What does the celebration of cricket represent for Reservoir?

ervoir Watches doesn’t just tell time; it encapsulates an ethos of adventure and precision,

need to be true to the DNA of the brand — for example, the

Values from cricket stick perfectly with the brand DNA, around

appealing to those with a penchant for both style and substance. From aviation-inspired

retrograde minute being at core of all Reservoir watch collec-

making the difference through a bold move at a specific moment.

collections to automotive-themed masterpieces, Reservoir continues to carve a niche in

tions and stick to the storytelling of the brand by selecting com-

It perfectly matches our slogan, ‘make it bold’, illustrated by the

the industry, captivating enthusiasts with a blend of heritage and avant garde ingenuity.

ics with a bold spirit. Popeye was a natural fit for these criteria.

movement of the single-minute hand when it ‘retrogrades’.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

15

“Creativity is this alchemy which is requested both in terms of design, the ‘wow’ effect and the principle of having an innovative business model.’’

Reservoir was created as a tribute to racing drivers and heroes

edgeable about watches and appreciate the retrograde minute com-

of the past — in 100 years time, who today do you think will be

plication. Given its rarity in the market, the opportunity to access

inspiring watchmakers looking for historical inspiration?

this complication, especially one inspired by automobile, aeronau-

This is a delicate question because there are many gifted watchmak-

tic or marine design, is a compelling reason to purchase. There is a

ers, and to mention only one or two would not recognize or appreci-

second group of buyers, below the age of 45, who are drawn to the

ate the work of the others. Jack Heuer did an admirable job around

universes of inspiration, but less knowledgeable about the watch

motor racing with models that are still relevant today like the Car-

complications. Both groups, when acquiring a Reservoir watch, are

rera or the Monaco launched in the 1960s.

immensely proud to spread the word around them as there is a radical way to read time, while at the same it reproduces the measuring

In an industry bustling with innovation and creativity, how

instrument in a real manner

did you design the Reservoir brand to stand out — what are its most important qualities in terms of brand differentiation?

Reservoir is resolutely affordable; how do you ensure a level of

The cornerstone of brand differentiation lies into the capability of

quality, reliability and finishing at this ambitious price point?

brand manifesto to differentiate from other brands. We dedicated

Indeed, it is an essential element of our value proposition. At the

a significant amount of time to focus our communication around

time of our launch in 2017, we noticed a disconnect between the mar-

the ‘make it bold’ slogan, which captures the moment when the

ket price of watches and the value of these manufactured watches.

single-hand minute retrogrades. At that specific moment, there

Also, we targeted a segment of around USD4,000, which seemed to

is an emotional momentum, which opens the doors for creativity

us the most relevant in terms of value proposition and acceptable

in terms of design. This principle applies to different universes:

to the customer, a price segment very rarely offered at that time.

car, aeronautic, marine, music, comics. All in one the outcome of

Today we see that we were right, and today many houses have an

the design process will have to be in line with the manifesto and

offer at this price. We do not compromise on of our collections,

strengthen the core brand alongside the launch of novelties.

whether on quality, finishes or reliability. So, what’s the secret? It’s about having a network of partners in Switzerland, because all our

16

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Who buys Reservoir?

collections are Swiss-made, who are ready to support us over the

The primary buyers of Reservoir watches are men who are knowl-

long term around this value equation.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

17

“Passion represents the worlds of inspiration, such as automobiles, aviation, the marine sector or music.

Passions that we share within the team.”

Boldness, passion and creativity — three facets of the Reservoir

within the watch industry today, which brings light to indepen-

personality. Why were these chosen and how does the philoso-

dent brands. This trend is primarily fuelled by final clients who are

phy for product design reflect these?

looking for alternatives to ‘already seen’ watches, unafraid to singu-

This is a fundamental question for us. Behind the words, there is

larise themselves with a less-seen watch. This trend is also pushed

a corporate reality within our entrepreneurial adventure. Boldness

by multiband retailers, as global brands are now opening their

means overcoming conventionalities, such as reading the time

own stores which leaves space for independent brands. Reservoir’s

with one hand, instead of three. Passion represents the worlds of

watch collections are perfectly matching these trends.

inspiration such as automobiles, aviation, the marine sector or music. Passions that we share within the team. Finally, creativ-

How does RESERVOIR ensure a continuing culture of experi-

ity is this alchemy which is requested both in terms of design, the

mentation and excellence?

‘wow’ effect and the principle of having an innovative business

The culture of experimentation is definitively within the core DNA

model to succeed within a very stable luxury watch market.

of Reservoir watch: we were the first to launch a single-hand diving

MAIN PARTNER

watch, a bi-retrograde inspired by VU meters or by capturing the

18

What excites you most about being in the watch industry today?

essence of a comic by animating tits character. Excellence is non-

There is an increased place for ‘true’ innovations on the market

negotiable and linked to the quality of the watch manufactured.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

19

Regional news RACHEL SILVESTRI

Pavilion of dreams

QATAR

Qatari brand Kaltham’s Pavilion goes global with a new Place Vendôme location

I

t’s always exciting to see regional brands go international, and

Chanel No. 5 bottle stopper, the Place is certainly the place to be for

the opening of a Kaltham’s Pavilion flagship on Paris’s storied

luxe brands of all stripes, but for jewellery Maisons it’s the ultimate

Place Vendôme must be one of the most significant of the year.

achievement. Kaltham’s Pavilion is the second Gulf brand to set up

The international centre of fine and high jewellery, Kaltham now

shop on the square, with Mahmood Qannati’s innovative Bahraini

rubs shoulders with the likes of Boucheron, Cartier and Van Cleef &

watch brand Qannati Objet D’Art opening its own flagship there

Arpels — some of whom have had a presence on the square for well

in 2018. It’s an exciting new era for the presence of Middle Eastern

over a century. Famed as the octagonally-shaped inspiration for the

brands on the jewellery scene.

Rock the Kingdom

SAUDI ARABIA

UAE

High times in Dubai Parure Atelier moves into the Middle Eastern market, choosing Dubai for its new location

M

arking an expansion from its original bases in Moscow and Almaty, high-end jewellery brand Parure Atelier has

Maveroc takes its trending pieces to Saudi Arabia

U

20

made a move into Dubai’s bustling City Walk. Bring-

ing its craftsmanship-focussed wares to a new audience, regional shoppers can expect meticulous design and high-end materials from both boutique and jewels. Fully handmade and with a com-

AE-based fine jewellery brand

stones were all present and correct, with

mitment to the highest quality and ethical sources, Parure Atelier’s

Maveroc partnered with Riyadh’s

a fusion of Emirati heritage and contem-

creations carry a legacy of artisanal craft. Starting out in 2015 with

Jeed Jewellery in a special event

porary design making the pieces ripe for

just two craftsmen, the brand’s expansion speaks for itself, with a

to showcase their blingy wares in the

the picking. “This collection embodies

reputation built on world of mouth by satisfied customers. A visit

Kingdom. The Maveroc X Jeed Exclusive

the UAE’s rich heritage and its vibrant

to the new City Walk boutique promises a trip into the heart of

wowed crowds from November 1 to 8,

present, where traditional meets modern

bespoke jewellery creation, from stone selection and design concep-

with a focus on the jeweller’s Urbaine

in extraordinary ways,” said Maveroc co-

tualisation to sketches, 3D models and the final pieces, all created

collection, inspired by the architecture

founder Rita Chraibi. “Our collaboration

by singularly talented jewellers. For future heirlooms worth shout-

of the art deco and brutalist movements.

with Wdeema beautifully celebrates this

ing about, the Middle East just got a new player to watch.

Gold, diamonds and colourful precious

cultural fusion.”

Parure Atelier, City Walk Residential Building 9, G02, Dubai

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

21

News

UAE

Bright reading Bulgari launches its new tome at Dubai Watch Week

I

Starring role

t was high time for Bulgari to tell its unique story, and it chose Dubai Watch Week as the venue to present a new book that recounts its 140-year history. Spanning its early origins

UAE

Zenith’s new flagship boutique opens in Mall of the Emirates

as a Roman jeweller to today’s presence as an internationally-

recognised watchmaking juggernaut, Bulgari: Beyond Time was cre-

ated in partnership with publisher Assouline and is a high-end tome worthy of its luxe subject matter. It’s also the first official,

M

authorised history of Bulgari to ever be published, making it a must

arking a third entry into the region for Zenith —

for collectors. Speaking exclusively to GMT GCC about the launch,

following openings in the Dubai Mall and Saudi

the managing director of Bulgari Watches Antoine Pin had this to

Arabian capital of Riyadh — a new boutique in

say: “I’ve been asked how come we haven’t done a book before now.

Dubai’s Mall of the Emirates heralds yet more opportunities

We felt it wasn’t normal for us not to have a book! We have reached

for lovers of the brand to catch a glimpse of the latest wares.

a certain kind of maturity as a manufacture, and it took us maybe

Featuring Zenith’s famed ‘Story Bar’, a place for visitors to sit

10 to 15 years to get there. But now we are confident enough to be

back, enjoy a refreshment and take in the impressive horology

able to talk about ourselves. Sure, it takes a bit of arrogance! But we

all around them, it’s a unique way to immerse yourself in the

have to accept and assume this attitude and now we are comfort-

Zenith experience. We’re planning a trip already.

able enough to do it.”

A secret garden The Seddiqi Jewellery Show blossomed in Dubai

T

ransforming the Mandarin Oriental’s ballroom

Poetry in motion Van Cleef & Arpels bring their art to Dubai Watch Week

19-23. Sowing seeds of desire in the event’s numerous visi-

A

tors, the wares from Maisons available at Ahmed Seddiqi

the ticket. An enchanting exploration of where

into a veritable meadow of lush, sparkling blooms, The Seddiqi Jewellery Show brought 15 of its coveted

brands to a rapt audience of jewellery lovers from October

22

UAE

s a first-time exhibitor at the longawaited Dubai Watch Week, Van Cleef & Arpels needed to pull out all the stops —

and the stunning Poetry of Time exhibition was just

& Sons were showcased in a luxurious and tasteful setting

craftsmanship, artistry and horology meet to cre-

worthy of the jewels on display. The focus was on regional

ate timeless works of watchmaking art, the exhi-

favourites, with Ailes and Noora Shawqi (pictured right)

bition welcomed viewers into its magical world of

present and correct, while international brands such as

whimsy and desire. A treat for lovers of the brand

Picchiotti and Carrera Y Carrera also made their presence

as well as casual observers meeting the VC&A

known. How does your garden grow? For attendees of this

universe for the first time, it was indeed a poetic

show, very beautifully indeed.

reading for all who observed it.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

23

Worldwide news

SWITZERLAND

The loss of a legend

RACHEL SILVESTRI

Back to black Sounds great: An advancement in materials for Audemars Piguet

INTERNATIONAL

The Dreifuss family mourns colourful patriarch Daniel, founder of Maurice de Mauriac

with white gold and titanium touches, with one sporting diamond

I

A

dark and dramatic blend of cutting-edge acoustic and material technology has resulted in the development of Audemars Piguet’s very first Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie

in black ceramic. The two 42mm timepieces — in sleek black accented

t was with heavy hearts that the GMT GCC team learned of the death of one of watchmaking’s most joyful characters, Zurich-based horologer Daniel Dreifuss. After a two-year battle with cancer, Daniel died at the age of 63 on the 25th

August, leaving his loving wife Claudia and devoted children Mas-

indices — have been realised especially to enhance their acoustic per-

simo, Leonard and Masha behind. Daniel founded his quirky cult

formance, counteracting the limited sound conductivity of ceramic.

brand in 1997, as a second life upon leaving his former profession as

Powered by the patented hand-wound Calibre 2953 minute repeater

a banker in New York City after the financial crash that year. With

movement, the Supersonnerie mechanism is housed in a full ceramic

a focus on carefully crafted mechanical watches, imbued with

case and caseback, a first for the Maison. Apertures amplify the min-

individuality, love and passion, the brand saw success with the

ute repeater’s sound, and the uniform depth of the ceramic’s colour is

magnificent Fabian Schwaerzler-designed L Series. But it was the

achieved by being sintered at over 1000 degrees Celsius. A sonic wave

presence of Daniel at the Tödistrasse atelier in Zurich that assured

engraving on the caseback completes the picture of a technically

Maurice de Mauriac’s ongoing popularity, with the warmth and

advanced timepiece, paying tribute to Audemars Piguet’s multiple

comfort of a true family business obvious to any enthusiast who

musical connections and proudly innovative reputation. After all,

happened to drop by. Handing the business over to sons Massimo

chiming mechanisms are part of AP’s heritage, so what better way to

and Leonard in 2021, Daniel secured his legacy as Zurich’s premier

pay tribute to the past than by pushing forward.

watchmaker, and someone who most certainly lived life on his own terms. We would like to send our most heartfelt condolences to Daniel’s family — he will be missed.

Artist Zaria Forman joins Vacheron Constantin

Audemars Piguet lays its foundation stone in Meyrin 9,400 m2 of industrial space dedicated to the production of cases and bracelets, as well as to the New Technologies Center: Audemars Piguet has thought big for its new manufacture in Meyrin. The foundation stone was laid at the beginning of September and completion is scheduled for the end of 2025.

24

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

INTERNATIONAL

The Overseas collection was missing a female face, a gap now filled by the entry of American artist and explorer Zaria Forman into Vacheron Constantin’s select ‘One of not Many’ circle.

Her outsized works testify to the evolution of landscapes and will be showcased in our upcoming Lady by GMT special edition.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

25

News

INTERNATIONAL

GMT, GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES 2023 SPECIAL XXL EDITION, WWW.GMTMAG.COM CHF 20.–

GMT, GREAT GREAT MAGAZINE MAGAZINE OF OF TIMEPIECES TIMEPIECES 2023 2022 -- 2024 2023 SPECIAL XXL EDITION, WWW.GMTMAG.COM CHF 20.– GMT,

$18

A TATLER ASIA PUBLICATION

A TATLER ASIA PUBLICATION

T

August 2023

ARC OF TIME

Vacheron Constantin spotlights its signature dynamic display: the retrograde

August 2023

BRICE LECHEVALIER

RM20

MALAYSIA / AUGUST 2023

SINGAPORE / AUGUST 2023

GMT’s various worldwide time zones

Hey,

WINGMAN

Explore Longines’ remarkable legacy in pilot chronographs

Singapore

Malaysia

Hong Kong

Taiwan

Philippines

China

hrough its franchises and joint ventures, GMT has been promoting fine watchmaking around the planet in various ways since 2000, most notably for the past 10 years with its GMT XXL World

covering more than 80 countries.

A new step was taken last summer with the launch of Tatler GMT in Asia. Tatler Asia has established itself as the most influential luxury platform on the entire continent. The jointly produced Tatler GMT has already appeared in Hong Kong and ZENITH

Pilot Big Date Flyback Ceramic

HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT THE FINE WATCH CLUB?

HAVE YOU HEARD OF THE FINE WATCH CLUB?

Haute Horlogerie at its best

Fine Watchmaking from Z to A

GMT, GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES 2023 - 2024 SPECIAL XXL EDITION, WWW.GMTMAG.COM CHF 20.–

GMT, GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES 2023 SPECIAL XXL EDITION, WWW.GMTMAG.COM CHF 20.–

10th edition of Only Watch

Singapore, as well as in Malaysia and is on the horizon in Indonesia, China, Taiwan, Thailand and the Philippines.

PATEK PHILIPPE

Aquanaut 5261R

Do you know the Millennium Watch Book?

The combined circulation of these publications amounts to almost 700,000 copies, reaching almost 1.5 million enthusiastic, high-end readers worldwide every quarter.

GMT XXL Switzerland, annual special edition

In 2024, GMT will celebrate its 24th anniversary and fly the flag for precious mechanical creations even higher.

GMT GCC N° 2 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES GCC EDITION Q2 2023 I ENGLISH USD12.–

GMT N° 82 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I SUMMER 2023 I ENGLISH & FRENCH VERSION I CHF 12.–

GMT XXL World, distributed in over 80 countries

Dossier

Accro aux chronos Chrono-crazy

Interview

Dossier

La Royal Oak Offshore a 30 ans The Royal Oak Offshore turns 30

Immersion

Vacheron Constantin en mode rétrograde Vacheron Constantin in retrograde mode

Bonus

Supplément Breguet Type 20 & Type XX Breguet Type 20 & Type XX Supplement

Art & Culture

Dans les ateliers de Richard Mille et de Tudor In the workshops of Richard Mille and Tudor

Breguet Type 20

GMT NO 82 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I SUMMER 2023 I ENGLISH & FRENCH VERSION I CHF 12.–

TENDANCE TRENDS L’heure en un coup d’éclat Time in a flash of radiance

JOAILLERIE JEWELRY Ivresse de la métamorphose The exhilaration of transformation

PORTFOLIO Bucherer Fine Jewellery

CHOPARD Alpine Eagle & Ice Cube GMT NO 79 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES LADY SPECIAL I AUTUMN 2022 I ENGLISH & FRENCH VERSION I CHF 12.– 1 I LADY BY GMT

Lady by GMT, the only national women’s version of GMT

New models

Bold trends for a fresh spring look

Portfolio

Jaquet Droz vs The Rolling Stones Eco-friendly timepieces

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Interviews

TAG Heuer Autavia

Watch my name

Interviews

Jean-Christophe Babin (Bvlgari) Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (Chopard)

Portfolio

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is stunning as ever

Bucherer BLUE

Off the Cuff Ananya Birla

On watches, work and more

GHPG

Bravo aux lauréats!

Interviews

Congratulations to the winners!

Atlantis The Royal’s regal bearing The Arts Club Dubai’s personal touch

Test Bench Banc d’essai

Laureato Absolute Chronograph

Specials

12e art

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023 Van Cleef & Arpels weaves its magic WatchBox brings the buzz to Dubai KF Masterpieces takes on the desert

Breitling

GMT GCC NO 2 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES GCC EDITION I Q2 2023 I ENGLISH I USD 12.–

12th art

Les valeurs sûres du Fine Watch Club

The sound values of the Fine Watch Club

Panerai

TAG Heuer

SCAN FOR AR EXPERIENCE

Connected - 3rd Generation

Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech™ GMT NO 001 | GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES INDIA | SPRING 2023

GMT NO 4 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES AFRICA EDITION I SPRING 2020 I ENGLISH & FRENCH VERSION I USD 12.– GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I INDIA I

Middle East

26

Au nom de la montre

Icon

Premier B01 is bringing back the ’40s for 2023

GMT Switzerland, an international mission

Watch Fairs

Matthieu Humair (Watches and Wonders)

Maurizio Pisanu (Gucci)

Icône

AFRICA

INDIA

An Immersive Experience

India

5

Korea

Sub-Saharan Africa

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

27

News

The Fine Watch Club BRICE LECHEVALIER

Chronograph on demand: Activating the two o’clock pusher activates the seconds hand to measure short times — in this case, the time it takes for the ice to dissolve in a cocktail — as many times as required, without interfering

Singer Reimagined x Fine Watch Club, an exclusive cocktail

with the watch’s accuracy. By keeping the pusher firmly pressed down, the seconds hand remains in position, enabling it to be quickly released at the exact required moment.

Singer Reimagined won the Chronograph Award at the GPHG in 2018. So with our readers and collectors in mind, we have designed and developed a 12-piece limited edition.

T

o accompany and commemorate the publication of The Millennium Watch Book on chronographs, we wanted to create a limited series of chronographs for collectors on

a festive theme for our members and readers. Marco Borraccino, CEO of Singer Reimagined, accepted the challenge. Together, we designed the Flytrack Cocktail Timer. Admire the result, and thank you for your trust!

“Inspired by the Flytrack Barista, this creation involving 12 one-of-akind models flaunts celebratory colours and horological values in a highly original way.”

Singer Flytrack Cocktail Timer Flytrack Cocktail Timer with a 43mm steel case and ceramised aluminum bezel, water resistant to 100m, flyback chronograph movement, 72h power reserve, exclusive Fine Watch Club dial, 12-piece limited edition.

28

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Gravity Force GravityEqual Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Ultimate Sapphire

‘Time only’: Black ceramic rotating

Exclusive calibre: Derived from the famous GPHG-

peripheral hour disk with luminescent

winning AgenGraphe 6361 movement, Calibre AG6364

orange individual numerals for each

incorporates new components designed for the reset

watch, like the hours index positioned

system at the heart of the Flytrack Cocktail Timer.

at six o’clock in keeping with Singer Rei-

Pressing the reset button releases the clutch, which

magined tradition. Minutes and seconds

disengages. The rocker also acts as a reset hammer

are indicated by two central hands.

by pressing a cam. When the pusher is released, the

The Gravity Equal Force is the world’s first automatic The Gravity Equal Force is the world’s first automatic watch with constant force transmission. The result watch with constant force transmission. The result is consistent power delivery to the balance which is consistent power delivery to the balance which ensures that the watch always delivers flawlessly ensures that the watch always delivers flawlessly constant precision. constant precision.

rocker returns to its initial position, re-engaging the system and restarting the seconds hand.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

29

Concept development with 3D dial

A

s the CEO of the Watch Connoisseur Project Group, Elmar van Dijk has returned to his roots. Coming from a background in high finance and innovation technology in Silicon Valley, he’s used to coaching and encouraging projects from start-up to success. And now in a valley closer to home, based in the watchmaking heartland of La Chaux-de-Fonds in the Swiss Jura mountains, Elmar’s attentions have turned to enjoying soccer and snow sports with his four boys as well as handling the present and future

of this horological design and production project, providing watch industry services and private label timepieces to those who know the value of know-how. Incorporating high-end personalised watch manufacture KF Masterpieces under its umbrella, here Elmar shares his industry secrets with GMT GCC…

RACHEL SILVESTRI

In conversation with…

Elmar van Dijk Bringing together watchmaking savoir faire with the worlds of investment and digital technology, the Watch Connoisseur Project Group chief has an eye on the future of horology – on a deeply personal level.

30

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GMT GCC: What does the WCP Group do?

What is the group’s vision?

Elmar: Our roots are in the Swiss Jura, so naturally we’re

We want to become a key player in our areas of specialisa-

active in sectors ranging from watchmaking, which our

tion by creating value and promoting growth in a sustain-

core business and main focus, to micro-mechanics and

able way. We aspire to be recognised for our commitment

MedTech to name just a few. The group has been active

to excellence and our role as a catalyst for innovation in

since 2016, and has always been about creating value

these sectors while remaining faithful to our Jura roots

and relevance. We operate both on the basis of internal

and the Swiss watch industry.

developments and external mandates, with our objective always being the development of the entities that

So do you expect that WCP Group will expand rapidly?

we represent through active management in the short

Absolutely not. We want to stay in a model with a fluid,

and medium term. Our support stops once those entities

agile structure with cutting-edge skills. We are not seek-

reach a threshold of autonomy, allowing them to con-

ing to become an industrial platform active in mass pro-

tinue the adventure independently or under the aegis of

duction. Our mission is to support initiatives, projects

their buyers.

and concepts carried by individuals, companies, brands or start-ups at the start of their process, not to absorb

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

31

Down to business

them by managing their production from A to Z. In addition, we

And how about creating your own brands – is this something in

can count on a network of highly competent and specialised exter-

the WCP Group’s future?

nal professionals in the region covering the watch manufacturing

I can tell you exclusively that we are in the development phase for

sectors in particular.

Elmar van Dijk gives us an insight into the WCP Design Studio’s artistic direction, philosophy and savoir faire…

two new brands. The first embodies Swiss watchmaking in the ser-

“Creativity is born from constraint, and watchmaking is

gularity, while precisely meeting the client’s specifica-

vice of cultural diversity. With its unique design and precision, each

the perfect example. Every new creation has a starting

tions. And it must be done in a subtle manner.

What do you do within the watch division specifically?

watch will be a summary of Swiss watchmaking DNA. The second

point, and very often, it’s a technical constraint such as

A story can be expressed through the exterior of

We work on a portfolio of current or future brands. This includes

brand, also in the development phase, has its origins in the mid-

a movement for which it’s necessary to find the watch

the watch: the strap, buckle, case, and so on. But

product development, prototyping or the viability of the first series,

20th century. The segment here is quite different knowing that we

to accommodate it. The calibre will in fact result in a

the dial, the face of the piece, is not to be outdone

among other areas. We also serve as an advice platform and inter-

are targeting a young clientele, a bit avant-garde and digitalised.

height, a diameter and even functionalities that must be

as it’s often the first point of contact with its buyer.

vene at all stages requested by clients who commission us for pri-

The brand will be fresh, easy to wear and easy to own.

respected, magnified or protected.

But design is also about highlighting technique or

vate labels. R&D is our largest division in terms of the extent of the

Sometimes technique isn’t the central element, we

function. We then collaborate with our development

sectors it affects. We are present in the sectors of metaverses, AI,

What is your vision for the future of the watch industry and

can also start the creative process around a material,

teams on the movement to work on the shapes, the

linguistics and other areas linked to the world of digitalisation.

how does your group intend to help shape this evolution?

a shape or even a concept. But beyond these aspects,

visible and invisible elements of the calibre and its

And we are continuing our efforts in the development of new watch

The watch industry offers an unnecessary product, sometimes

there is always, at the heart of creation, the story,

geometry. This allows us to play with the arrange-

complications and related patents. Via our entity SOOON, which

extremely expensive and less reliable in terms of precision than a

the will and the objectives of the client who comes to

ment of the elements so as to be able to gain freedom

is active in the innovative digital marketing sector, we can, for

cell phone. The future of watchmaking already relies and will con-

entrust us with a creation. This makes up the hard core

when creating the dial.

example, offer customers the conceptualisation of a digital watch,

tinue to rely on the creation of added values, emotions and person-

of the project on which we build a concept as a whole.

In this exercise, as exciting as it is demanding, we

its online and offline communication platforms, potentially its

alisation. Watchmakers have understood this well. We no longer

The initial brief can be based on an economic frame-

always keep in mind the crucial question of ergonom-

ecosystem in the metaverse, solutions payment in cryptocurrency

sell time, but we give it a colour and a soul that speaks to people

work, for example a market to be developed involving

ics. A timepiece you love should be able to be worn like

if desired as well as the branding and the entire brand universe.

around the world and resonates with them. Our developments

responding to specific cultural paradigms as well as a

a second skin.

Straddling watchmaking, supply chain, digital and marketing, the

always follow these prerogatives.

pricing strategy. It can also be a more personal or fam-

offer is complete.

And in the end, what’s the most important ele-

ily story that needs to be transcribed.

ment? That the timepiece arouses an emotion, that

Do you call yourself independent?

Throughout the design process, the studio’s concern

it makes you feel something. That emotional connec-

Yes, quite. We don’t belong to any group, whether watchmaking or

must be to find the design that will stand out for its sin-

tion is what we ultimately strive for.”

otherwise. Our investors are mostly from the industrial and technological world, but this gives us significant support in terms of expertise and networks.

32

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

33

GPHG RACHEL SILVESTRI

A golden moment It’s watchmaking’s biggest night out — and all eyes were on the winner of the Aguille d’Or, Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 UltraComplication Universelle RD#4

I

ts not called the ‘Oscars of watchmaking’ for nothing

Henri after picking up the gong. “Nothing would be possible

— the atmosphere at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie

without their collective genius and collaboration. After

de Genève was one of glitz, glam and jubilation. As the

29 years in the watchmaking business, I’d like to dedicate

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix:

Men’s Complication Watch Prize:

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize:

19 prizes were announced one by one, the news we’d all

this victory to the teams, to Ilaria who will succeed me, to

Audemars Piguet, Code 11.59 by

Voutilainen World Timer

Piaget, Altiplano Métiers

been waiting for was finally revealed — and the winners can

Jasmine Audemars and to the founding families who have

Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication

Iconic Watch Prize:

d’Art — Undulata

bask in the glory of their success for the coming year.

supported me.”

Universelle RD#4

Ulysse Nardin, Freak One

“Petite Aiguille” Prize:

Innovation Prize:

Tourbillon Watch Prize:

Christopher Ward London, C1

The coveted Aguille d’Or Grand Prix went to the Code 11.59

Speaking exclusively to GMT GCC before the ceremony,

by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4,

watch journalist, photographer and GPHG jury member

Hautlence, Sphere Series 1

Laurent Ferrier, Grand Sport

Bel Canto

which pays tribute to the manufacture’s legacy of high

Anders Modig said: “Being part of the jury was a huge

Audacity Prize:

Tourbillon Pursuit

Challenge Watch Prize:

complications. Its ergonomics and contemporary feel pro-

honour — the 30 members of different ages and back-

Maison Alcée, Persée Azur Chronometry

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize:

Raymond Weil, Millésime automatic

ved irresistible to the GPHG jury, who found its 40 functions

grounds, not just from the industry but also personalities

Prize: Ferdinand Berthoud,

Bovet 1822, Récital 20 Astérium

small seconds

and 23 complications including a grand sonnerie superson-

somehow connected to watchmaking, were all experts

Chronomètre FB 3SPC

Chronograph Watch Prize:

Mechanical Clock Prize:

nerie, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split seconds

in their way. Everybody was open to taking on board dif-

“Horological Revelation” Prize:

Petermann Bédat,

L’Epée 1839, Time Fast II Chrome

flyback chronograph and flying tourbillon worthy of the top

ferent points of view. Having been writing about watches

Simon Brette, Chronomètre Artisans

Chronographe rattrapante

Special Jury Prize:

prize. Surely a bittersweet moment for outgoing CEO Fran-

for 18 years, it felt good to be able to share that knowledge

Ladies’ Watch Prize:

Sports Watch Prize:

Svend Andersen and

çois-Henri Bennahmias, who will be succeeded by Ilaria

through a different way than my words and photography.”

Vincent Calabrese

Resta in the new year.

34

The winners: François-Henry Bennahmias (CEO of Audemars Piguet); Juan Ciola (Head of Communications of Tudor); Elie Bernheim (CEO of Raymond Weil); Mike France (CEO and co-founder of Christopher Ward); Patrick Pruniaux (CEO of Ulysse Nardin); Gaël Petermann et Florian Bédat (Founders of Petermann Bédat); Benjamin Comar (CEO of Piaget); Stéphanie Sivrière (Creative Director of Piaget); Lan Cittadini (Jewellery & Timepieces Global Director of Dior); KarlFriedrich Scheufele (President of Ferdinand Berthoud); Jean-Christophe Babin (CEO of Bulgari); Antoine Pin (Watchmaking Managing Director of Bulgari); Kari Voutilainen (Owner and watchmaker); Pascal Raffy (President of Bovet 1822); Laurent Ferrier (Founder of Laurent Ferrier); Arnaud Nicolas (CEO of L’Epée 1839); Simon Brette (Independant watchmaker); Samuel Hoffmann (CEO of Hautlence); Alcée et Benoit Montfort (Founders of Maison Alcée); Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese (Founders of the AHCI)

Piaget, Hidden Treasures

Tudor, Pelagos 39

Here’s that list of winners in full — do you agree with

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize:

Jewellery Watch Prize: Bulgari, Serpenti Cleopatra

“A big thank you to all the people who put their genero-

the jury’s choice? Stay tuned for the next issue of GMT GCC,

Dior Montres, Grand Soir Automate

sity at the service of watchmaking, both those whose faces

where we will take a deep dive into the winning timepieces,

Etoile de Monsieur Dior

we know well and those behind the scenes,” said François-

one by one.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

35

Tech Insights DAVID CHOKRON

Grand Seiko

The Tentagraph temptation

It’s no surprise that Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph was shortlisted in the GPHG Chronograph category. We take a look at the key features behind this accomplishment.

36

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

I

t seems improbable, and yet the Ten-

TEN AND T

tagraph is Grand Seiko’s first purely

The Tentagraph is equipped with the new

mechanical chronograph. The others

9SC5 caliber. It belongs to the Hi-Beat fam-

are powered by Spring Drive technol-

ily, within which the Japanese giant classi-

ogy. Its arrival therefore carries spe-

fies its calibers beating at 5Hz, or 10 vibrations

cial significance with the brand’s dynamic, as

per second — Grand Seiko is a member of the

is indeed evident from its name alone. Grand

exclusive ‘Five-High Club’, made up of the

Seiko watches usually bear the name of their

eight manufacturers who have achieved 5Hz

collection and an alpha-numeric reference. In

or above in their timepieces. What’s more, the

this instance, the nomenclature has clearly

Tentagraph offers a three-day power reserve

evolved. Its full name is Grand Seiko Evolu-

and a high chronometric standard. Its move-

tion 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001, yet Ten-

ment has an average deviation in rate of -3 to

tagraph is enough and that in itself deserves

+5 seconds per day, exceeding COSC require-

explanation. This is no evocative patronym,

ments. It ensures this by taking its intense

but instead an acronym. TEN stands for ‘Ten

internal testing procedures one step further:

beats per second’, which reveals its frequency;

three more days of testing during which the

T is for ‘Three’, which specifies its autonomy;

accuracy is assessed in three positions while

while A is for ‘Automatic’ and GRAPH refers

the chronograph is in operation in addition to

to the main function clearly displayed by this

the regular testing of 17 days in six positions

43.2mm timepiece.

and at three temperatures.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

37

A The Tentagraph is a sports watch, not even a sporty chic timepiece. Automatic is, therefore, a must. To make the most of

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001 CASE: High-intensity titanium, black ceramic bezel

engraved with tachymeter, sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 100m (10 bar) SIZE: 43.2mm, 15.3mm thick MOVEMENT: Mechanical self-winding, Caliber 9SC5, 5 Hz, 72h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph with two totalisers DIAL: Stamped blue, snailed black counters, applied hour markers and LumiBrite-enhanced hands and hour markers BRACELET: High-intensity titanium, three links, folding clasp PRICE: Dhs56,000 (approx.)

38

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

wrist movements, Grand Seiko started from its 9SA5 movement

T AND GRAPH

E, THE MISSING LETTER

base. The rotor is openworked, in a semi-circle. Its engraving

The third special feature is the T in the middle of Tentagraph,

This chronograph is read in conjunction with a tachymeter,

is highlighted by fine bead-blasting, which makes the lion —

since with its two barrels, Caliber 9SC5 achieves a three-day power

engraved in the ceramic bezel. Built on a pronounced bevel, it

Grand Seiko’s lucky animal — stand out with particular clarity.

reserve. This high-frequency watch is very moderate when in use,

shares a common objective with the case. Both are designed to

While two of its distinctive features do not feature in the Tenta-

thanks to very subtle management of its escapement consump-

ensure the volume of the Tentagraph merges seamlessly with the

graph acronym, they would definitely deserve to do so. The first

tion. The 9SA5 base movement is designed to offer 80 hours’ run-

wrist, thus reflecting a common thread running through the Evo-

is a pair of barrels, each containing a mainspring manufactured

ning time and in this instance, has given a little of its strength to

lution 9 collection: ergonomics. The fine layering of the case levels

by a company belonging to the same group. The group is in fact

a noble cause. Grand Seiko has coupled it with its vertical clutch

and the black bezel absorb the thickness. Last but not least, Grand

autonomous in the design, production and processing of its elas-

chronograph module. The Graph part of the name gets to the

Seiko could not achieve such a compendium of its technologies and

tic alloys, which make up the mainsprings as well as the regulat-

heart of the matter. The short, round pushers provide a sensation

expertise without leveraging its favourite material: high intensity

ing springs. The balance-spring of Caliber 9SC5 is therefore made

of precise contact, even when activated. The attention devoted to

titanium. The interplay of polished chamfers and satin-finished

in-house. The second is its escapement. Equally exclusive in

operating sensations testifies to Grand Seiko’s thorough approach.

surfaces, the overall lightness compared to the volume, along with

terms of its design, the Dual Impulse Escapement maintains the

The 3,6,9 arrangement of the totalisers and small seconds adds an

the natural comfort of titanium all help to diminish the bulk of the

balance between high frequency and low energy consumption.

original touch, as it is often associated with dressier applications.

case and make it surprisingly comfortable to wear.

Among other things, its profile preserves chronometry (preci-

The elegant blue dial features a pattern inspired by the many-ridge

sion timekeeping) when the chronograph is activated, a mode

contours of Mount Iwate, which overlooks Grand Seiko’s work-

that would otherwise deplete the torque available to the balance.

shops in Iwate prefecture, in the northern part of Japan.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

39

Test Bench CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

I

nspired by a model launched in 1968, this Skipper picks up all its aesthetic codes.

In the 55 years between these two watches, technology has evolved rapidly and TAG Heuer has integrated the production of all its movements. One wonders whether, in this case, the reissue might not be more ‘authentic’ than the 1968 original. Let’s hope this test bench can answer the question.

EXTERIOR:

The Carrera collection was launched in 1964 by Edouard Heuer. Revived in the 1990s after a long slumber, the collection has never since left the brand catalogue, indeed becoming its spearhead line. The case is well known and thus well mastered. The Skipper retains the 39mm diameter of the original models, while featuring the sharp edges of the collection’s emblematic lugs. The case is now equipped with a sumptuous glass box-type sapphire crystal which, in addition to the legibility and resistance offered by this material, enhances its overall elegance. While the dial faithfully adopts the look and colours of the original, it also features a small seconds and date at 6 o’clock. Only the ‘0’ on the minute counters has been replaced by a ‘15’. This counter, distinguished by its inverted graduation, is dedicated to ocean races and regattas. As sailors have to cross the starting line at a specific time, the countdown on the

TAG Heuer

Carrera Skipper Automatic Chronograph 40

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

scale enables them to anticipate the maneuvers preceding the start, so as to cross the line as close as possible to the set time. Metre graduations have been changed from white to black and this ‘infidelity’ clearly enhances legibility. The same applies to the baton-shaped hour and minute hands, which are now wider and finely openworked. Finally, the case is now fitted with a sapphire caseback and its water resistance has been increased to 100m, which is entirely apt for a model christened Skipper. 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

41

POSITIONS MEASUREMENTS 0h

Rate (sec/day)

4.5

4.8

2.4

1.8

2.3

3.4

0hrs

Amplitude

281

277

255

257

252

261

24h

Rate (sec/day)

3.1

2.3

-0.8

-1.4

-1.3

0.3

24hrs

Amplitude

268

262

230

222

223

220

MOVEMENT:

TESTS:

The all-new Caliber TH20-06 is an improved version of Caliber TH02.

The diameter of the case and the synthetic bracelet with folding

Let’s be honest, watchmaking history is littered with often dubious reissues, sometimes

The functions are orchestrated by a column wheel and the oscillat-

clasp contribute to the Skipper’s excellent wearing comfort. The

deprived of all their true substance. To answer the question posed in our introduction, the

ing weight is now bidirectional. Despite its 4Hz frequency (2.5Hz

strap is water resistant, easy to care for and respects the original

Skipper definitely doesn’t fall into this category. The waterproofing, glass-box crystal, black

for the 1968 model), the movement is endowed with a comfortable

aesthetic and design. Despite the colourful patchwork of the dial,

transfers on the counters and redesigned hands are all improvements that are perfectly in

80-hour power reserve. For this Skipper, it displays a 15-minute

legibility is surprisingly clear, whatever the position of the hands.

keeping with the vocation and essence of the 1968 model. The same applies to the ‘engine’

counter to match the original and respect the function dedicated to

On the technical side, the chronograph controls are straightfor-

of this new Skipper: an in-house self-winding (bidirectional) caliber with column wheel,

this watch. For the rest of the range, the TH20 base will be avail-

ward and lively. Our power reserve measurements all exceeded the

date and small seconds display — all of which represent a considerable number of improve-

able with a more conventional 30-minute counter. Technically, this

80 hour figure announced by TAG Heuer, and the precision time-

movement has already proved its worth in terms of chronometry

keeping, as confirmed by our table, proved to be simply exemplary!

CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

Watchmaker

ments while maintaining complete respect for the original. It’s pleasing to see TAG H ­ euer’s efforts to focus on its historical fundamentals (chronographs, precision, reliability) to reach

and reliability. The modifications made to it can only enhance its

the maturity of this Skipper, which perhaps already marks a new milestone in the brand’s

performance. Aesthetically, this new caliber is reassuring with its

epic saga.

robust, sporty appearance and not lacking in terms of both elegance and a certain degree of refinement.

42

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

43

Dubai Watch Week JOLA CHUDY

The other capital city of Switzerland Dubai Watch Week is coming in hot for its sixth edition, which means the watch industry is coming in hot… for Dubai.

E

very autumn, as a white carpet descends

timepieces, prompting Swiss brands to establish a

with reassuring inevitability upon Swit-

stronger presence in the region and even tailor spe-

zerland’s watchmaking towns and villages,

cific designs and collections for the discerning Middle

many of its inhabitants turn their atten-

Eastern clientele.

tions not to the glowing fires of their homes, but to heat from a different source: Dubai.

DWW unfurls in the centre of the desert emirate this

skyscrapers and being a desert playground metropo-

winter for its sixth, sizzling edition. More than 55

lis, Dubai is also hot, hot, hot for watchmaking.

watch brands are participating in the five-day event,

In fact, this November 16-20, Switzerland’s watch-

with many global launches tightly under wraps

making enclaves are going to find themselves expe-

alongside the programme of stringently non-com-

riencing something that’s becoming as annually

mercial networking, mingling and hanging out.

familiar as the snowfall — a mass exodus to the Middle East.

44

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Welcome to a week of haute watchmaking

Synonymous with glitzy lifestyles, audacious

“Our objective [was] to create an educational, experiential and networking event like no other,” explains

The growing popularity of Dubai Watch Week

Hind Abdul Magied Seddiqi, Director of Dubai Watch

has in turn led to an increased demand for exclusive

Week. “Dubai Watch Week is an unprecedented and

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES 45

46

inclusive experience, influencing the evolu-

Dubai watch industry trends

On local time…

tion of the global watch industry in a city

Although big brands dominate as elsewhere

In Dubai, watch connoisseurs and collec-

that prioritises culture and innovation.”

in the world, a desire and curiosity for

tors’ tastes have changed over the past

Open to all, the event encompasses exhibitions, networking spaces and features the now-highlight event that is the Horology Forum, a unique concept created by Dubai Watch Week.

Grossman, H. Moser et Cie, De Bethune and Louis Moinet all released timepieces in homage to the UAE.

Open to all, the event encompasses exhi-

independent watchmaking has flourished

three decades; watch clubs such as Emir-

bitions, networking spaces, and features

steadily over the past 20 years. It’s one rea-

ates Watch Club and super-influencers such

the now-highlight event that is the Horol-

son why one Max Büsser, one of the indus-

as Arab Watch Guide lend their voice to the

ogy Forum, a unique concept created by

try’s biggest indie stars, swapped ice and

conversation around watches with increas-

Dubai Watch Week. An innovative twist

snow for sand dunes and soaring temps.

ing influence, alongside a thriving local

on traditional panel-led discussions within

Norquain recently partnered with Dubai

publishing scene, with print and digital

the watch industry, the Horology Forum

Marathon as official timekeeper. Mean-

amplifying brand stories.

brings together renowned leaders from

while, well-known brands such as Richard

The appetite for ‘regional exclusives’ is

their respective fields to interact in panels

Mille sponsor Tour de France-winning UAE

stronger than ever, and ‘one of a kind’ pieces

that enlighten audiences and participants

Team Emirates. The UAE’s approach to mar-

and regional exclusives have become even

with unfiltered, passionate insights on top-

keting has always been global: bigger, bet-

more highly sought-after. Savvy brands

solely to the event itself. Its influence has reverberated throughout the

ics across various industries not necessarily

ter, and with a bang. It’s no surprise watch

understand this. During the 50th anniver-

Middle East, sparking a surge of interest in luxury watches and fostering

tied to the world of horology.

companies want a slice of the pie.

sary of the UAE, brands including Moritz-

a vibrant community of watch enthusiasts and collectors.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Pre-owned watches get a second chapter The Seddiqi family partnered with WatchBox to stake a strategic claim in the pre-owned sector and bring the famed online reseller to Dubai.

Second hand watches are now part of the scene in an increasingly sophisticated way, with auction houses also established firmly as part of the landscape.

Over the past few years, Dubai Watch Week has evolved into a groundbreaking platform that not only showcases the region’s affinity for luxury timepieces but also cements its position as an integral part of the Swiss watchmaking universe. The impact of Dubai Watch Week is not confined

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

47

Dubai Watch Week RACHEL SILVESTRI

New, now, next It’s the week we’ve all been waiting for, with new and exciting timepieces coming to our shores en masse. GMT GCC has the lowdown on the sharpest and hottest wrist candy at Dubai Watch Week — and boy, was it worth the wait.

I

t’s been two long years since Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons last attracted watchmaking’s leading names to Dubai Watch Week, and each time the event

gets bigger and bigger. Proving irresistible to horology’s great and good, the uniquely Dubai combo of fabulous food, superlative hotels and an educated public of connoisseurs with the means to purchase the timepieces on dis-

play makes for an horological carnival atmosphere that’s difficult to beat.

Add to that the increasingly lavish and lush exhibitions and displays that watchmaking Maisons are bringing with them, this is a spectacle not to be missed. But, back to basics: what we’re really here for are the new launches that are exclusive to Dubai.

Signing more non-disclosure agreements than we had hot dinners in the weeks leading up to Dubai Watch Week, here at GMT GCC we’ve been dying to let you all in on the secret new launches — and, finally, it’s time to spill

Chanel

Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles

the beans. Feast your eyes on the best the top brands had to offer at this very

While not technically a new launch at Dubai Watch Week, it was nonetheless

special event, and join the scramble to get your hands on one…

thrilling to see this suite of five captivating timepieces on the UAE’s shores for the first time. We might be used to small and dainty watches from the Chanel workshops, but this time around we are going big as well as going broke, at 55mm in diameter. The size is warranted thanks to the sheer intricacy of the dials – the daintiness of the black fabric strap set against the domed heft of the timepiece evokes a dressmaker’s pincushion, singularly appropriate for the famed couturier’s themed dials. Our favourite? The signature Chanel quilting, dotted with baguette-cut diamonds and teeny tiny chains. Cute, quirky and elegant — we’d expect nothing less.

Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition

effort from Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin is sure to zoom straight

Ludo Secret Watch

out of sight once it goes on sale in December 2023. With a reimagining

As always, at VC&A not everything is as it seems. As the lead exhibitor at

of watchmaking’s classic bridge structures and as a new addition to the

Dubai Watch Week, it was a prime opportunity to show off some signature

brand’s heritage Bridges collection of timepieces — Constant Girard first

mystery — and, typically, the Van Cleef & Arpels team did it in utmost style.

sketched three parallel bridges on a pocket watch in 1867 — the Neo Bridges

The brand’s Ludo Secret creations are based on original bracelet designs from

watch reflects the Aston Martin DB12’s sculpted contours with its skele-

1934, named after Louis Arpels’s pet name and giving the Maison’s craftsmen

tonised curves and edges. At a generous 45mm and with an abundance

the opportunity to flex their virtuosity. Minutely-set diamonds sit in rose

of luminescence on its dial, this may not be a timepiece for secret agents,

gold, forming the push mechanism that opens the bracelet to reveal a secret

With a slick, masculine look worthy of James Bond himself, this joint

48

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Van Cleef & Arpels

after all — but if you’re looking for something as eye-catching as it is tech-

guilloché mother of pearl dial. The brick-patterned meshwork bracelet is flex-

nically advanced, you’d better hurry to get your hands on one of the only

ible and elegant, forming a second skin when worn. And, best of all, this tiny

250 pieces produced.

quartz treasure is cute as a button. Keep it a secret? You couldn’t if you tried.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

49

Dubai Watch Week

Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE OPS

The Freak is back — and this time it’s operating with a military

Norqain

Wild ONE Gold & Wild ONE All Black

bent. The revolutionary 2001 original broke boundaries back in the day, with no dial, no hands, no crown and no worries about what watchmaking purists would think. And sure enough, it pushed limits in ways that were felt industry-wide. Now it’s back for Dubai Watch Week in a fetchingly military khaki and black colour scheme, its satisfyingly marbled DLC titanium case con-

In a first for this brand, solid gold has made it on to the distinctive case

trasting with the deep green of the sunray-patterned barrel cover.

design, lending a high-end edge to the Wild ONE’s sporty look and feel.

The flying carousel movement is almost completely visible, rotat-

The brushed and polished 18 carat red gold is incorporated not only into

ing around its own axis and suspended by bridges that indicate the

the case but also on the dial, in the form of hands, indices and logo. Ethi-

time. The 30 per cent recycled rubber straps give the piece some

cally sourced, mercury free and fully traceable, when it comes to their gold

eco-cred, while the oversized silicon oscillator and balance spring

Norqain seem to have got it all right from the very first try. The brand’s

add a pop of colour. As the name suggests, this isn’t a timepiece for

proprietary high-tech Norteq material is ever-present in both the gold and

wallflowers — and, luckily, Dubai’s extroverted watch lovers are up

All Black models, while an intricate three-level laser cut dial, rich in the

to the challenge.

mandala-like Norqain pattern motif, adds a fascinating point of interest. A mature step for this high performance brand.

Breitling

Avenger B01 Chronograph 44

Zenith

50

Launching a whole plethora of Avengers wrist candy at Dubai Watch Week, Breitling fans were tickled pink by

Chronomaster Revival Edition

the options the brand put on offer. While there was truly

Sporty, fresh and undeniably Emirati, a partnership with

coloured B01 Chronograph 44, a substantial timepiece made

the Dubai Watch Club collector group has resulted in

subtle by its styling, and still as technically brilliant as

Zenith’s strictly limited edition version of its Chronomaster

you’d expect a Breitling to be. With a 70-hour reserve and

Revival, based on the A384. The bright yellow dial screams

running on the powerhouse Breitling Manufacture Calibre

fast cars, the matte titanium case whispers strength, and

01, this is a timepiece for fans of a sporty silhouette with

the Eastern Arabic numerals on the counters, tachymeter

technical prowess made deceptively simple. While those

scale and date wheel say it all. Compact proportions and

with an appetite for something more flashy could certainly

retro tonneau-style lugs complete the picture of exclusive

do worse than the Avenger Night Mission chronograph —

desirability. Want to get one on your wrist? You’d better get

the same guts, just with the glory turned up a few notches

yourself a club membership and begin vying for one of the

thanks to its unmissably bright yellow hue. Avenger? I

only 69 pieces produced.

barely know her!

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

something for everyone, our eye was caught by the sand-

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

51

Dubai Watch Week

Genus

Rainbow Green Unveiling yet another work of fascinating intricacy, this time Genus are making it totally Dubai, in a very sweet and tender way. Using what they call the ‘colour of Dubai’s creative energy’, this handsome green machine lifts one of the shades of the UAE flag for its Damascus titanium case and partners it with a moving rainbow of sapphires which form the dial’s 12 genera – the free-moving elements, indicating the tens of minutes, that are an icon of the brand. The sheer level of detail used in this timepiece is mind-boggling, but it’s been made to be worn. Despite the chunky gems, the movement is light enough to hold a 50-hour power reserve, and its 30-metre water resistance makes it lifeproof enough for everyday wear. It’s a beautiful expression of the dynamism of Dubai – you’d be hard pressed to find a more perfect horological representation of this City of Dreams.

Bulgari Peacock Saga

Hublot

Classic Fusion Black Magic

Unveiling a suite of spectacular ladies’ watches at Dubai Watch Week, Bulgari defined the concept of spoilt for choice. Elaborating on the concept of the elegance of peacocks, five new timepieces sported everything from intricate marquetry and gem setting to welcome complications, which are sometimes

Well, didn’t Hublot go off with a bang! Checking

frustratingly absent from women’s watchmaking. Ranging

every box on the Dubai watch-lover’s checklist, the

from a petite 33mm up to a more substantial 37mm and with

two funky-and-chunky timepieces produced in col-

the natural feather marquetry a particular point of interest,

laboration with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons are a sight to

the thunder was stolen by the Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi.

behold. With artist Wissam Shawkat’s captivating

Indicating the time with round diamonds affixed to two mov-

calligraphy reproduced in a delightful spectrum of

ing concentric disks, this is a self-winding treat for the eyes

neon tones on the dial, the spirit of Hublot’s porthole-

and wrist. The dial’s peacock feather inlay and cabochon-cut

like Classic Fusion is still front and centre, in matte

sapphire bezel are set off perfectly by the blue alligator strap.

black ceramic. “We are excited to be a part of Dubai

A triumph of colour and technique.

Watch Week, together with our partner Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and releasing two exceptional special-edition timepieces,” said Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe at the launch of the timepieces. “Following Hublot’s love for the world of art, we are pleased to reveal a special collaboration to resonate Hublot’s interpretation of Arabic heritage and culture — adding a great touch to the Art of Fusion.”

52

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

53

Jewellery focus RACHEL SILVESTRI

From the heart

It’s a Middle Eastern jewellery moment. As we gear up for UAE National Day, GMT GCC talks to the brains behind the flourishing local jewellery industry about why the Emirates is the place for them and what pushes their creativity to the max.

PG. 56

PG. 60

Oria

La Marquise

Pamela Bayram

Nishith Shah

PG. 64

PG. 68

Amwaj & Ruwaya

Bil Arabi

Founder, Oria

Fatima Ali Al Deheri

Designer and Managing Director of Amwaj & Founder and Designer of Ruwaya

54

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

CEO, L a Marquise

Nadine Kanso

Founder and Designer, Bil Arabi

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

55

Pamela Bayram Founder, Oria

With chic and delicate 18 carat gold pieces ready to be delivered to your door within four hours of ordering, all interchangeable and buildable for ultimate flexibility and creativity, Oria by Pamela Bayram is just about as ‘Dubai’ as it gets. Innovative and eye-catching — perspex cords are a new addition to Oria’s repertoire — the brand nevertheless still has a traditional feel, with familiar charms making mix-and-match a snap. All Oria’s wares are handmade in Lebanon by local artisans, making it a fine choice for those wishing to bolster regional economies. We caught up with founder Pamela Bayram, who formerly worked on luxury global fashion magazines before turning her attention to beginning her own jewellery brand, to find out what makes her pieces so collectable.

56

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

57

As a UAE-based brand, what special opportunities has being in

Tell us three things that everybody should know about you and

the Emirates given you?

your brand.

First, it’s the ease of setting up a business, especially in a free zone,

I love to create from a place of meaning, and operate from a place

tax free environment. Then there’s the exposure to diverse cultures

of dreams. Oria is an easy layering concept with affordable luxury

which allows the brand to interact with a range of customer groups

pieces and built on the philosophy of fun.

and explore unique design inspirations. Networking opportunities with like-minded people and entrepreneurs, potential partners

If you weren’t designing jewellery, what would you be doing?

and investors are everywhere you turn, and concept stores offering

This is my dream job! It’s helped me learn and explore so many

opportunities to local brands, providing various distribution chan-

aspects of work, be it legal and compliance, sales, marketing, cre-

nels. All this comes along with lots of pop-ups and events related

ative or logistics. I keep on learning and growing every day.

to the design industry, which helps with exposure. The UAE recognises and appreciates emerging brands and designers, and the

Where do you see your brand 10 years from now?

media itself has been so supportive and appreciative of local talent

When I created Oria I wanted my clients to obtain beautiful hand-

too, which is something that I haven’t seen before. As the UAE is an

crafted pieces that offer a unique and authentic feel, while at the

international trade hub, making it easy to import and export jewel-

same time being affordable. But the most important part was that

lery, that’s just the final piece of the puzzle.

these pieces should be handcrafted by Lebanese and Arab artisans that have learned and mastered their skills from generation to gen-

How has the UAE inspired you and influenced your designs?

eration. I’d like to eventually have the brand in concept stores in

The UAE has a rich and diverse cultural heritage, and at the same

London, New York, Paris and so on… In this way we will have pre-

time it’s very cosmopolitan, especially in Dubai where we operate

served the traditional craftsmanship as well as evoking a sense of

from. Because of that multicultural population I wasn’t restricted

cultural heritage.

in creating designs — quite the contrary, it helped me to create jewellery that appeals to a wide range of clientele and even introduce

Do you have anything special in the pipeline for UAE national

the ain [evil eye] and hamsa hand in a dainty and chic format that

day this December?

appeals to foreign expats.

Not for this year, but we will surely have a special National Day capsule collection for the years to come.

58

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

59

Nishith Shah CEO, La Marquise

A Dubai favourite since 1986, La Marquise has grown alongside the

How has the UAE inspired you and influenced your designs?

UAE, always remaining fresh and relevant. Born from a partner-

Our designs draw inspiration from the UAE’s captivating land-

ship between two founders: an Emirati looking to break free from

scapes and architectural wonders. For instance, our Zinara col-

the constraints of traditional Middle Eastern jewellery, and an

lection is inspired by the elegant lighthouse and intricate dome

Indian diamond specialist arriving in Dubai with a fresh perspec-

structures prevalent in the region. Meanwhile, our Nura collection

tive, the pair created a business that encompasses fine and high

reflects the vibrant colours and patterns found within the UAE’s

jewellery as well as loose diamonds. Today, the brand is run by CEO

diverse communities, expressing them through an array of colours

Nishith Shah, who oversees the company’s 250 employees — 150 of

and stones.

whom are artisans who hand-make the brand’s wares, making it one of the largest manufacturing units in the UAE. GMT GCC asks

Tell us three things that everybody should know about you and

Nishith what’s made this brand so enduring…

your brand: There are three key aspects that define me personally. I’m deeply

As a UAE-based brand, what special opportunities has being

passionate about the art of design, gemstones and jewellery. I revel

in the Emirates given you?

in the stunning variety of colours, hues and lustres that emerge

Being based in the UAE presents us with unique opportunities

from these precious stones. It’s a harmonious blend of nature’s

that set our brand apart. Firstly, we have the privilege of being

beauty and human craftsmanship. I am someone who embraces

globally connected, which provides us with a remarkable global

unconventional paths. Even our brand philosophy is to stand apart

presence. Additionally, the UAE’s diverse and growing popula-

from the crowd, offering unique experiences that set us apart from

tion offers us a rich tapestry of cultures to draw inspiration from,

others in the industry. I am an advocate of evolution, not only as

making it a gateway to the rest of the world.

60

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

61

individuals but also as a brand. Our tastes, thought processes,

Where do you hope to see your brand 10 years from now?

and creative expressions continually evolve. We embrace change,

A decade from now, we aspire to be recognised as the premium lux-

reflected in our brand’s commitment to releasing new collections

ury brand originating from this region. Our vision is for our brand

that push boundaries, even if it comes at the cost of financial gains,

to be among the top in the UAE, not only in jewellery but across

as our primary goal is to foster growth, encompassing not only

various segments. We aim to become a global brand with Emirati

financial but also spiritual and creative development.

roots, a dream that’s gradually taking shape. Currently, our retail

As for the brand, at our core, we are a design-centric brand dedi-

presence spans four countries, and we’re eager to continue our jour-

cated to setting trends in the industry. A testament to this is the

ney to global recognition with an unmistakable Emirati essence.

fact that many companies now seek to imitate our jewellery — a true mark of flattery. Our commitment to ethical practices is unwaver-

Do you have anything special in the pipeline for UAE National

ing. We follow a mines-to-market philosophy, ensuring that all our

Day this December?

diamonds and gemstones are ethically sourced and impeccably cut.

We’re proudly presenting our MRM Heritage Collection, which

As a youthful and dynamic brand, we continuously push boundar-

draws inspiration from the remarkable archaeological findings at

ies. Unlike the traditional European houses, we are on a constant

the ancient Saruq Al Hadid site, originally uncovered by His High-

journey of expansion and innovation.

ness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. This collection pays homage to the rich heritage of our region, allowing you to

If you weren’t designing jewellery, what would you be doing?

immerse yourself in a legacy that spans over 3,000 years. Each piece

If I weren’t designing jewellery, I would immerse myself in another

is handcrafted using the highest level of gemstones and precision.

form of creative expression. Whether it’s designing furniture or crafting unique crockery, my passion lies in working with natural materials and shaping them into something extraordinary.

62

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

63

Fatima Ali Al Deheri Designer and Managing Director of Amwaj & Founder and Designer of Ruwaya

Abu Dhabi-based Fatima Ali Al Deheri is a double threat — heading up creativity both for Emirati heritage brand Amwaj and her own venture Ruwaya, her designs are firmly rooted in the tradition and legacy of the Emirates. While family business Amwaj has been up and running for almost a quarter of a century — Fatima’s father is the founder — Ruwaya was born from Fatima’s desire to design special, personal pieces for her family. Launching her brand in 2015, she draws inspiration from Arab aesthetics, the multicultural nature of the UAE and her own, inherent, sense of style.

64

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

65

As a UAE-based brand, what special opportunities has

women and their stories. Our traditional gold jewellery, the

here in the capital of the UAE, with careful detail and tech-

Where do you hope to see your brand 10 years from now?

being in the Emirates given you?

layers and layers of decadence adorning the women from head

nical expertise. Another pillar to our brand is legacy, which

We have been working very hard towards a bright and promis-

The unique opportunities that we have here are derived from

to toe, tells the story of our history, resilience and the strong,

is at the very core of Amwaj’s identity. This is a family-run

ing future with so many projects and concepts up our sleeves

the constant support and drive from our leaders who continu-

powerful women of our society. It is almost an in inevitable

business founded by my father and now also with my daugh-

that will soon come to light. Where I would like to see Amwaj

ously support our voices and efforts and provide us all the tools

infatuation that has been ingrained into my very being at a

ter recently coming on board bringing in a fresh perspective.

in 10 years is as a world-leading Arabian jeweller that upholds

needed to make our dreams a reality. We are given limitless

young age.

This highlights the importance of our brand history while

the values of storytelling through experienced craftsmanship

exemplifying our commitments towards growth as we move

and innovative design, producing iconic pieces that transcend

forward and expand.

time and space.

opportunities along with so much trust that you can’t help but

66

want to do the best that you possibly can. This allows us to

Tell me three things that everybody should know about

move forward with so much ambition because that is what we

you and your brand:

see on a daily basis through our visionary leaders, and that is

Amwaj strongly upholds the values of storytelling through our

If you weren’t designing jewellery, what would you do?

Do you have anything special in the pipeline for UAE

what we want to reflect as individuals.

collections by creating experiences and encapsulating stories

This is quite a difficult question because there are so many

National Day this December?

through timeless pieces that embody the spirit of luxury and

things I enjoy, and I don’t like to think of jobs with very defin-

As an Emirati jewellery brand, the UAE National Day has

How has the UAE inspired and influenced your designs?

femininity. One of the most important pillars of our brand is

ing characteristics because, personally, I find that restricting

always been such a special time for us. There is a special proj-

Our tradition, culture and heritage act as a source of inspira-

the jeweller’s know-how gained from nearly 25 years of expe-

and demotivating. To put it simply, my dream job is anything

ect we have been eagerly working on for this year’s National

tion for my designs, which are a reflection on how I perceive

rience in craftsmanship and design. We have been proudly

that allows me to be my creative and expressive self, while also

Day but we may be restricted with time… Hopefully, we’ll

the world and the many interactions I have with inspirational

producing international-quality jewellery to a very high level

being able to craft memorable experiences for people.

make it!

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

67

Nadine Kanso

Founder and Designer, Bil Arabi By now, Bil Arabi’s distinctive pieces are unmistakeable. Nadine

As a UAE-based brand, what special opportunities has being in

Kanso, an internationally-renowned multidisciplinary artist and

the Emirates given you?

creative force, made her mark on the UAE’s jewellery evolution and

Operating in Dubai, a city that’s open to endless possibilities, has

revolution and has remained a firm market favourite ever since.

truly been a game-changer for us. The sky’s the limit here, and the

Launching in 2006, her designs inspired by Arabic script and Middle

dynamic environment constantly inspires us to aim higher and be

Eastern motifs broke the mould when it came to what was possible

more ambitious in our creative endeavors.

for design in the Emirates. Here, Nadine lets us in on what’s next for Bil Arabi.

How has the UAE inspired you and influenced your designs?

The UAE’s spirit of innovation, its modernity, and its continual pursuit of excellence have undeniably left a mark on our designs.

We strive to be as forward-thinking and adaptable as the UAE itself, constantly evolving our creations to reflect these values.

68

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

69

Tell me three things that everybody should know about

homage to the Arabic language and culture. Bil Arabi will con-

you and your brand:

tinue to push the boundaries of traditional jewellery design

We were the first to pioneer Arabic initials and letters in

by exploring innovative techniques and materials, all while

our pieces, carving a unique niche in the world of jewellery

staying true to our distinctive style. We also see immense

design. My creative journey began as an artist and photogra-

potential in expanding our global presence through strate-

pher, providing me with a distinct perspective that shapes our

gic partnerships and collaborations. By joining forces with

designs. Both myself and Bil Arabi are passionate advocates

like-minded brands and individuals who share our values

for Arabic identity and cultural heritage, seeking to preserve

and vision, we believe we can amplify our impact and con-

and celebrate our rich history. And for a fun fact, I’m a devoted

nect with new audiences across the globe. The future is bright

cat lover!

for Bil Arabi, and we’re excited to embark on this journey of growth and creativity.

If you weren’t designing jewellery, what would your dream job be?

Do you have anything special in the pipeline for UAE

Without a doubt, I would pursue a career in photography or

National Day this December?

something related to history and archaeology. I hold a deep

We’re showcasing one of our classic heritage designs that

appreciation for both of these fields.

beautifully encapsulates the essence of the UAE’s legacy. It’s important to note that all our pieces are proudly made in the

70

Where do you hope to see your brand 10 years from now?

UAE and serve as heartfelt tributes to the rich cultural heri-

Over the next 10 years, our primary focus will remain on craft-

tage of this nation. We consistently feature pieces related to

ing exceptional and personalised jewellery pieces that pay

the UAE.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

71

Jewellery focus

Branching out...

It’s not just the UAE that’s having a jewellery outpouring — here’s the best of the rest from all around the Middle East

AJ Jewellery

Sanaz Doost

SAUDI ARABIA

Citing family traditions, gifting and the enduring legacy of jewellery as the main

Based out of Toronto, having left her

essence of their brand, Alanoud and Aljazi Althunayan are the sister team behind

homeland in 2006, Sanaz Doost’s cre-

AJ Jewellery. Hailing from the coastal city of Al Khobar, the pair produce pieces

ations are still recognisably Persian, with

with deep meanings, intended to be passed down to the next generation. But that

her inspirations ranging from ancient

doesn’t stop their creative spirit, with their designs sporting distinctively sharp

history and cultures to architecture and

lines and art deco elements. Whether reflecting soaring cityscapes or evoking

her own extensive travels. Possessing

starry desert skies, these Saudi siblings are bringing something completely new

skills ranging from ancient smelting

to the market.

techniques learned in bazaars around the

IRAN

world, to her background in industrial design, Sanaz has a unique eye and all her items are ethically handmade from 18 carat gold in her Toronto atelier.

Kaltham’s Pavilion

QATAR

Kaltham Al Majid may have just opened her flagship store in the very cradle of high jewellery — Paris’s Place Vendôme — but her roots are all Qatari. Hailing from the famed Al Majid family of jewellers, Kaltham has nevertheless made her mark, with her signature pink sapphires a recognisable hallmark of her work.

Valuing the power of femininity in design in an industry where so often men are in charge, Kaltham is also dedicated to personalisation, seeing it as essential to the creation of a lasting heirloom.

72

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

73

Sport RACHEL SILVESTRI

Heart of a lion With their eyes set firmly on the prize, GMT GCC Lions are a team of cricketers determined to make waves and build their names on the local scene. Meet team founder and captain Balaji Narayanan, the man following his passion to make his cricket dreams come true.

74

t’s Wednesday night at the Diya Cricket Stadium in

I

“Cricket has been my passion since childhood,” says

Sharjah and the GMT GCC Lions cricket team are lim-

the Dubai-based senior media manager, who, when he’s

bering up. Looking the business in their yellow and

not busy leading his fellow players, works for advertis-

blue shirts, the group of passionate players all have one

ing company BPN Media as his day job. “I’ve been play-

thing on their mind — yet another victory.

ing this game for the past 40 years. Nobody else in my

The Lions have had unprecedented success this sea-

family plays, but somehow I became interested in it, got

son in the 32-team GPL Dangal Cricket League. Scooping

hooked, and here I am, still playing with great enthusi-

numerous wins and Player of the Match gongs in the T20

asm and my passion intact.”

‘‘Our aim is to let the GMT GCC name fly high in the UAE, and fingers crossed we’ll make it.”

Balaji Narayanan GMT GCC Lions captain

began through a chance client meeting with

the top of our table in our group. We are going

publisher Deremi Ajidahun.

in the right direction to win the trophy for

“I met Mr Deremi through his magazine,

this tournament, and we hope to play another

where we advertise for our client Ahmed Sed-

before the end of the year. Our aim is to let the

diqi & Sons,” says Balaji. “I told him about

GMT GCC name fly high in the UAE, and fin-

my cricket team and he showed an interest

gers crossed we’ll make it.”

in sponsoring us. So far we have played three

With the team’s Midas touch going strong,

tournaments under the GMT GCC banner, win-

there’s sure to be more victories in store for the

ning one Winners’ Trophy and two Runners’

boys in yellow and blue. Under Balaji’s lead-

tournament, their place in the UAE’s largest and most

Having played for numerous teams over the years,

popular cricket league has seen them gaining fans left

Balaji finally took the plunge and started up his own in

Up Trophies. We are currently playing another

ership and with GMT GCC emblazoned upon

and right. And it’s all down to the team’s captain and

2022. Of course, here at GMT GCC magazine we are most

tournament, where we took on five league

their chests, we can’t wait to see what other

founder, Balaji Narayanan.

interested in the team’s distinctive name — and it all

matches, winning all of them, coming out at

tricks these cricketers have up their sleeves.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

75

My Time RACHEL SILVESTRI

Father and Son While it worked as a song title for Cat Stevens, will the paternal dynamic spell success for giant of watchmaking Jean-Claude Biver? According to him and son Pierre, it will, and it is – and it’s better than ever before.

W

hen Jean-Claude Biver announced

ily name, Jean-Claude is as shrewd as ever. And as for the

the launch of his own self-titled

watchmaking? Taking a traditional approach in all respects

watch brand earlier this year, the

— Biver timepieces are only available for purchase at brick-

news was delightful — if unsurpris-

and-mortar locations — these extravagantly-priced time-

ing. The latest in a madcap line of

pieces are a love letter to all that was and continues to be

watchmaking adventures, the advent of the JC Biver mai-

good and pure in Jean-Claude’s career. Coming straight

son seemed like a fitting epilogue for an epic career of horo-

out of the corner swinging, the brand’s first watch — the

logical thrills and spills. A key figure in the resurgence of

42mm Carillon Tourbillon Biver — has hours, minutes,

post-quartz crisis mechanical watchmaking, his purchase

tourbillon, carillon minute repeater and micro-rotor all

and revival of Blancpain in the 1980s, along with the trans-

powered by the proprietary automatic Calibre JCB-001, a

formation of Omega, Hublot and Tag Heuer and eventual

combination of some of horology’s most daring feats. And

role as head of the watchmaking and jewellery division at

as for the cool CHF350,000 (almost Dhs 1.5 million) needed

LVMH, cemented his legacy as an horological and market-

to buy one? While some have criticised Biver’s établisseur

ing great. Did we really believe that the Luxembourg-born

approach, sourcing parts from partners rather than pro-

septuagenarian’s 2018 retirement would last? There were

ducing everything in-house, the man himself has stressed

certainly doubts. But did we think his comeback would be

that it’s a smart way to work, allowing more agility and

in partnership with his 22-year-old son Pierre? Well, that

experimentation.

was a surprise.

76

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

While for those in the watch industry Jean-Claude Biver

Changing the brand name to simply ‘Biver’ shortly after

seems to be eternal, his own thoughts have certainly turned

the new venture’s announcement, it seems like Jean-

to the legacy he leaves behind. GMT GCC spoke to both

Claude’s marketing juices are still pumping — taking

father and son to understand more about their dynamic —

the focus off himself and redirecting it back to the fam-

and what we can expect more of in the future. 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

77

Carillon Tourbillon Biver, with silver obsidian hardstone dial

GMT GCC: First of all – how are things going at Biver headquar-

just how much watchmaking had to offer someone passionate

closer together? How is working with your child different from

Pierre — does it feel like a big responsibility to be playing such

ters? Is everything moving forward as planned?

about beautiful things; so finally when the time came to go into

other types of colleagues? Does he give you a sense of pride?

a key role in ensuring your father’s legend and legacy is secure?

Jean-Claude Biver: We have to admit that everything we have

watchmaking I realised how lucky I was to have my father to find

JCB: It’s just a wonderful experience with a lot of action and also

Or are you too busy having fun with it to feel such a pressure?

done was planned very carefully, and that today we are more or less

me opportunities and for what he had been able to pass on to me,

a lot of emotion. I feel so privileged to be able to learn the future

PB: Of course I feel enormous pressure and responsibility, even

where we should be. In other words, we are quite pleased with the

his knowledge, during my youth.

thanks to my son Pierre. I even believe that the combination of past

more so because I have so much respect for my father’s career and

and future gives us a unique interpretation of our business concept.

success. However, I’ve managed to turn that into motivation and

current situation, which enabled us to deliver the first watches in mid September.

How did you feel about your father’s calling at that point?

Horological families have typically done very well in business

Let’s talk family. Biver is a family business in every sense.

when the excitement wore off, I felt the gravity and weight, the

— from the Stern, Audemars Piguet and Hayek dynasties, to

Jean-Claude — how does it feel to be passing your knowledge on

What makes your father-son partnership work?

responsibility of such a project.

brother-sister combo the Scheufeles, right down to young

to the next generation?

brands such as Maurice de Mauriac in Zurich with its Dreifuss

JCB: To be passing over my knowledge in general and even more

JCB: The most important factor of your success is certainly the complementary feeling and perception of our business. Thanks to

When did watchmaking begin to call to you?

brothers dynamic. Why is this such a winning combination in

in particular to my son is not only my first priority, it’s my biggest

the young age of Pierre we have the vision of the future and thanks

PB: In my late teens. When I passed my maturité fédérale, my father

watchmaking? Is it to do with Swiss watchmaking culture —

responsibility, biggest motivation and biggest privilege.

to my experience we also get the perception of the past. Once you

gave me a Blancpain watch from that time, the day before the

family businesses are often a complex beast in other parts of

understand the future and also the past, you are not so far away

exam, and said: “Here, I’m giving you this watch to congratulate

the world. Or is there another reason why watchmaking fami-

Finally — the Carillon Tourbillon Biver is a masterpiece and

from a successful concept

you on passing your exams.” Imagine the pressure. I was still very

lies just seem to work?

truly a watch for the appreciation of watchmakers. What more

young, and I was rather interested in ‘fashion’ watchmaking, or

JCB: Watchmaking is still a small, but also very prestigious, busi-

do you have in store for us? Anything you can let us in on?

Pierre — how aware were you of the world of horology in your

watchmaking for a look. Suddenly, I had a 38mm white gold watch

ness compared to most businesses. When you think that the annual

JCB: Our brand has a very clear ‘innovative concept’ and a very

childhood and teen years?

with a white dial and a manual calendar in my hands, and that’s

revenue of the Swiss watch industry is close to US$40 billion each

ambitious 10 year plan, in order to become one of the leaders of fine

Pierre Biver: First of all, I was born into the watchmaking indus-

when I realised the beauty and timelessness that’s only found in

year, whereas the revenue of Apple alone was close to US$400 bil-

independent Swiss watchmaking brands.

try, so I’ve been aware of it all my life. For me, it’s something very

traditional watchmaking.

lion in 2022… The majority of the revenue of the Swiss watch indus-

instinctive and natural, so much so that, in my teens, I wanted to

78

find pleasure in trying to take his legacy to the next level.

PB: I was extremely excited by this challenge and very quickly,

try is done thanks to less than 20 brands of which the five biggest

detach myself from the industry and watches, as it didn’t seem very

Jean-Claude — how is it to work day-in, day-out with your son?

exciting. Ultimately, it was as I grew up and matured that I realised

Have you always been close or has this experience brought you

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

ones are still in private hands.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

79

On My Watch JOLA CHUDY

Discreet luxury

Ainsley Duncombe has earned a reputation as a master of discretion when it comes to buying and selling ultra-luxury properties in Dubai.

Is his taste in timepieces similarly secretive? We find out…

Rolex Yachtmaster Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — Ainsley Duncombe’s dream timepiece

The Founder of Off-Market Listing Dubai is known for closing see-

a reminder of how far I’ve come since those early days when I was

Would you call yourself a watch collector? Or are you more of

selling back in Dubai. In moments like that, the G-Shock is my

mingly ‘impossible’ deals. The epitome of discretion, it’s not easy

just starting out, so it really means a lot to me.

a casual appreciator?

go-to ‘grab and go’ watch. It’s perfect for travelling or going to the

I would say I’m a casual appreciator. I have a lot of respect for the

gym because it combines durability with design.

to find out how Ainsley does what he does, but as we discover in

80

this interview, he is a man who will (quite literally) cross oceans

Your business is super discreet — is your taste in watches

skill that goes into making a fine watch, from the creative crafts-

to market his clients’ properties — and always with a great watch

similarly subtle?

manship to the technical mastery. Whenever I see a nice watch,

What’s the favourite watch that you’ve ever owned? It could be

on his wrist!

When it comes to watches, I’m drawn to interesting, eye-cat-

I’ll make a mental note of it for when I’m next on the lookout to

special to you for any reason.

ching pieces that spark a conversation or invite curiosity. At first

add to my collection.

My favourite watch is my Rolex Yachtmaster in steel and plati-

GMT GCC: What are your earliest watch memories?

glance, that seems the total opposite to my business, which is all

Ainsley: When my best friend turned 18, his dad gave him a Breit-

around guaranteeing the utmost discretion at all times. But the

Can you tell us about what you’d consider to be the top three

num. It was the first watch I purchased after successfully selling my first property. I wanted a watch to mark the deal and to have

ling watch that had been handed down from his father before

way a great watch can invite curiosity and spark a conversation is

timepieces in your collection?

it as a reminder of my achievements when times are challenging.

him. That’s really stuck with me. I’ve always seen watches as

very similar to the way I do business. In fact the whole idea for Off

My Rolex Submariner definitely has to be in my top three. It was

more than just something you wear on your wrist to tell the time.

Market Listing Dubai was inspired by a chat with friends when I

the first significant timepiece I bought and it holds a lot of mea-

Do you have a ‘grail watch’ — a timepiece you’ve got to get your

The whole experience planted a seed in my mind and I told myself

took my daughter for a playdate at their villa. They had just refur-

ning for me, representing a big turning point in my career. I am

hands on? Why do you lust after that watch in particular?

that one day I would invest in a nice watch that I could pass on to

bished their property and put it up for sale on one of the online

also fond of my Hublot Big Bang, which was given to me as a gift

I would really like to get my hands on the latest Audemars Piguet

my own kids to mark a milestone in their life.

portals but the first people who came to view were their next-door

by a good friend. It has a really iconic design that I think stands

Royal Oak. There is one with a green strap that I’ve seen worn by

neighbours. They had zero intention of buying and just wanted

the test of time while still looking contemporary.

the British boxer Anthony Joshua. I saw him with the watch and

Can you recall your first watch? What was the story behind it?

ideas for their own renovation — the wife turned up with her

The final watch in my top three, and perhaps this is a bit of a

loved the look of it. I knew straight away that it was one that I

I remember watching films when I was a teenager and noticing

phone in hand, videoing the entire house! My friend went on to

curveball, is my G-Shock. I do my fair share of travelling with my

want to add to my collection one day. These days, my time is

that the successful character always wore a Rolex. So for me, that

tell me they had taken the property off the market as a result, and

business — just recently I was asked to market a property where

focused on growing my luxury property business in Dubai. Things

was the goal from an early age. I’ve always been driven and ambi-

that’s what gave me the idea for a business that enabled people to

the seller gave strict instructions not to take a single photo of it!

are going well and I’m excited about what the future holds given

tious when it comes to my career, so when I received my first signi-

sell their property discreetly. So I suppose you could say there are

The property had a really distinctive feel to it, and the style really

all the exciting opportunities in Dubai so I’m planning to treat

ficant bonus, I used some of it to acquire a Submariner — a model I

some similarities between my taste in watches and the way I do

reminded me of the Maldives so within 72 hours of being instruc-

myself with a new watch when we reach our next big milestone

had been wanting for a while. To this day, it’s a much-loved watch

business — it’s all about genuine curiosity and a willingness to

ted, I’d pulled together a film crew and hopped on a plane to the

at Off Market Listing. I guess it might be time to start thinking of

in my collection. Of course it’s a great looking watch, but it’s also

start up conversations and see where they lead.

Maldives to shoot content that resembled the property we were

myself as a collector and not just a connoisseur!

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

81

On My Watch RACHEL SILVESTRI

Adil Anwar

Co-founder, Dubai Audio How did you first get into watches?

us select a beautiful Cellini Ref 4087/8 which he still enjoys

Since childhood, I recall having a collection of watches. We

wearing today. I was already living in Dubai during the first

always had numerous brands of the latest technologies and

Gulf War in 1990, and I recall going to Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons

designs. It was also the 1970s, and this was when the first

in Fahidi Street, where Mr Seddiqi was in the store, taking

digital watches were being introduced. This helped create

care to look after each individual client. The attentive service

that first spark that led to me wanting to explore horology

and care that was shared with us made a long-lasting impres-

further. This exploration led to an appreciation of beauti-

sion and it’s one that we have instilled in our own business

fully-crafted precision timepieces.

and follow to this day.

What’s on your wrist today?

What’s your ‘grail’ watch? Have you achieved it yet or do

A 2020 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 with a silver dial and Oyster

you still have your eye on it?

bracelet. The sunray dial on this watch is elegant and very

I am fortunate enough to have an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

understated. It’s something that can be enjoyed easily at

Jumbo Extra Thin. It took a few years of waiting for it, but it

work for me.

was been worth the wait as I had my eye on Royal Oaks for the longest time.

Do you have any special watch memories?

82

Going with my father to a Rolex boutique in Singapore when

Can you tell us what are the three favourite pieces in your

I must have been around 12 years old to choose a graduation

collection?

gift for my elder brother. I still recall the brilliant advice

My Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711A with a white dial, the Rolex

and the very passionate sales staff in the store who helped

Daytona Zenith Ref 16520 and my Tank Louis Cartier.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

83

Motoring JOLA CHUDY

The heart of motoring

Roaring into life in the heart of Motor Valley, the inaugural Concorso d’Eleganza Varignana 1705 establishes an exciting new chapter in the seminal event for classic car collectors

T

he inaugural Concorso d’Eleganza Varignana

happy to have participated in the first edition of an event

1705 was a remarkable debut for fans of clas-

that I hope will become one of the important events in

sic cars, a weekend replete with unforgettable

the season for international Concours d’Elegance.”

moments and a stunning array of motors.

A renowned collector, this title marked the 300th

The event, which took place in Italy from 13-15 October,

award that Corrado has won, and his 62nd Best in Show

saw a prestigious line-up of cars converge at the Palazzo

84

for a car in his collection.

di Varignana for an unforgettable weekend. Among the

The celebration of automotive artistry and elegance

23 vehicles — each produced before 1973 and boasting

naturally attracted some of the world’s most preemi-

extraordinary historical significance and design — the

nent car collectors and classic car enthusiasts. Some of

coveted Best in Show title was ultimately bestowed upon

the other winners included a 1929 Alfa Romeo 6C 1750 SS;

a 1939 Alfa Romeo 6C 2500 S Berlinetta Touring, proudly

a 1950 Fiat 1100 E Vistotal; a 1963 Ferrari 250 GTL; a 1955

owned by Corrado and Elena Lopresto.

Lancia Aurelia B24 Spider and a 1972 BMW 3.0 CSL.

“Winning Best in Show is everyone’s dream,” said Cor-

Held in the heart of the Italian Motor Valley, this

rado after claiming the gong. “The satisfaction is great,

exclusive car event was meticulously judged by a distin-

because winning a Concours d’Elegance is not easy, espe-

guished panel of experts including President of the Jury

cially when the cars are outstanding, as in this case. I am

Stefano Pasini, a renowned author of over 30 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

“The car is an expression of freedom” STEFANO PASINI

President of the Jury

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

85

automotive books, Eng. Lorenzo Ramaciotti, former head of Pinin-

The Concorso d’Eleganza Varignana 1705 is a concept dreamed up

farina design and President of the Villa d’Este Elegance Competi-

by Carlo Gherardi, owner of Palazzo di Varignana, whose passion

tion, as well as Dr Gianni Mercatali and Dr Alessandra Giorgetti,

for all things four-wheeled has resulted in this unique event — the

esteemed figures in global automotive juries. The judges noted

first in what will hopefully become a flagship event for classic car

that the 1939 Alfa Romeo 6C 2500 S Berlinetta Touring stood out for

enthusiasts around the world.

its peerless design, rich history and a meticulous restoration that

The stunning palazzo is nestled in the heart of Italian Motor Val-

allows admirers to behold the car in pristine condition — complete

ley in Bologna, home to automotive legends including Maserati,

with its original registration document and license plate, revealing

Lamborghini and Ferrari. The magnificent property is popular with

former illustrious owners such as Prince Caetani.

motoring enthusiasts out to enjoy some road time the heart of the

The Alfa Romeo 6C 2500 S Berlinetta Touring also claimed the top

86

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Italian countryside.

spot in the ‘Pre-War Elegance,’ class, sharing the limelight with

The spirit of the event, encapsulated in words like passion, per-

other winners, including the 1929 Alfa Romeo 6C 1750 SS, driven

fection and obsessiveness, resonated throughout the weekend

by Luca Patron, which won in the ‘Heroic Races’ class — a vehicle

at Palazzo di Varignana. As President of the Jury Stefano Pasini

believed to be one of the last four Alfa Romeos crafted by English

emphasised: “The car is an expression of freedom” — echoing the

coachbuilder James Young.

sentiments of Enzo Ferrari himself.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

87

Saga

THE PERFECT FUSION Our selection highlights a few Octo Finissimo watches that showcase the fusion of the Italian approach to design and Swiss watchmaking traditions bol-

DENIS PESHKOV

stered by modern technological advancements: starting with with the CarbonGold Automatic and Perpetual Calendar models which brought a fresh perspective to the Octo style by juxtaposing the high-tech, textured anthracite carbon with gold accents — a luxurious duo of sporty timepieces that more than excel in water resistance.

These watches feature a titanium container for the movement on to which carbon composite parts are assembled. Enhanced water resistance to 100 metres is achieved through the use of a thicker sapphire crystal and a screwdown crown. According to Philippe Saltarski, responsible for Bulgari Watch Development & Quality Assurance, waterproofing thin watches is not necessarily more challenging; the difficulty lies in integrating all the functions seamlessly. The ability to withstand water pressure is determined by factors such as the design, construction, strength-to-weight ratio, elasticity and resistance to deformation. For instance, the sapphire crystal on the CarbonGold models is 1.3mm thick, compared to just under a millimeter on earlier Finissimo models.

Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar Ref. 103778

CASE: Carbon composite, transparent caseback, water

resistance to 100m SIZE: 43 x 7.6mm DIAL: Carbon dial with gold-toned hands and hour markers MOVEMENT: BVL 305 calibre, ultra-thin automatic, 3 Hz, 60h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, retrograde date, day, month and retrograde leap year BRACELET: Carbon composite with folding clasp

Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic Ref. 103779

CASE: Carbon composite, transparent caseback, water resistance to 100m SIZE: 40 x 6.9mm DIAL: Carbon dial with gold-toned hands and hour markers MOVEMENT: BVL 138 calibre, ultra-thin automatic, 3Hz, 60h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds BRACELET: Carbon composite with folding clasp

A STUNNING TIMEPIECE, BOTH VISUALLY AND TECHNICALLY In 2020, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton Chronograph debuted, clad in its classic titanium attire, clinching Bulgari’s sixth world record for thinness.

This technical marvel seamlessly merged some of the

Bulgari

I

A foretaste of the future

dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking. With a svelte 3.5mm profile, its self-winding BVL 388 movement with a peripheral rotor is a marvel, housing a one-minute tourbillon operating at 3Hz, a mono-pusher chronograph equipped with a column wheel, a mode selector for transitioning between winding and time setting.

In 2023, following the definitive sandblasted grade 5 titanium model, it was time for one of the most complicated timepieces in the collection to shine in a warmer

n the span of just one decade, Bulgari’s Octo Finis-

that not many brands were using titanium. I wanted this

and more opulent 18 carat yellow gold, with every ele-

simo series has achieved iconic status, a remarkable

material for both case and dial with a sandblasted finish to

ment of the case and bracelet meticulously crafted from

feat typically taking watchmaking brands many

highlight the very unique colour of this metal. We were able

this luxurious alloy.

more years to accomplish. This rapid success owes

to turn a technical constraint into an opportunity to create

The dial featured a yellow gold-toned module that

much to Bulgari’s consistent habit of embarking on

a new aesthetic, like you often see in the Italian industrial

seamlessly integrated the inner flange and chrono-

design approach.”

graph sub-counters. Time was elegantly conveyed

daring experiments with cutting-edge alloys and avant garde finishes. And, of course, being Italian doesn’t hurt either.

88

most intricate features, reaffirming the Italian brand’s

Presented in 2016, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater in

through the openworked black-toned hands, creating

Reflecting on how titanium became the material of choice

a titanium case earned Bulgari its second ‘world’s thinnest’

a striking contrast for a watch of this calibre. Remark-

for the record-breaking Octo Finissimo watches, Fabrizio

record with its BVL 362 movement measuring a mere 3.12mm

ably, while identical to the titanium model, the layout

Buonamassa, head of design at Bulgari Watches, offers

thick. From that moment on, Bulgari has continued to capti-

maintained its irresistible appeal, characterised by a

insights. “Titanium was chosen for its unique qualities,” he

vate year after year with new ultra-thin timepieces, all clad

captivating sense of symmetry. The finishing on both

explains. “I proposed titanium but the reaction was a bit cold;

in the signature monochromatic titanium attire. Bulgari

sides is impeccable, with the back revealing a modern

someone said that this material was not noble enough for one

also frequently revisits past models, crafting watches from a

and intricate design where the chronograph mecha-

of the noblest complications of the Swiss watchmaking heri-

range of materials including steel, ceramic, gold, tantalum

nism took center stage. The two tones, yellow gold and

tage. I countered by reminding them that we are Italian and

and carbon composite.

titanium, complemented each other perfectly.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton Chronograph Ref. 103796 (2023)

CASE: Satin and polished 18 carat yellow gold, sapphire crystals front and back, water resistance to 30m SIZE: 43 x 7.4mm DIAL: Openworked with sun-brushed yellow gold chronograph counters and inner flange MOVEMENT: BVL 388 calibre, ultra-thin automatic, 3 Hz, 52h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, one-minute tourbillon, chronograph, mode selector BRACELET: 18 carat yellow gold satin-brushed and polished, with folding clasp

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

89

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days in Titanium creates a distinct aesthetic and delivers a unique ownership experience.

In any iteration, the Octo Finissimo Automatic exudes an unmistakable air of luxury and sophistication.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Ref. 103610 (2023)

CASE: Titanium, water resistant to 30m, transparent caseback SIZE: 40 x 5.95mm DIAL: Openworked MOVEMENT: BVL 199 SK calibre, ultra-thin manual winding, 3 Hz, 192h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator BRACELET: Titanium bracelet with three-blade folding clasp

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Ref. 102912 (2020)

AN EXPRESSION OF PURE AND RIGOROUS DESIGN VISION

In 2019, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT etched its name

The Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days was first released last year a

in horological history by redefining the limits of thinness. Its

luxurious gold version with an anthracite grey movement. While

sandblasted titanium case, a mere 6.90mm thick, cradled the

it may not have achieved record-breaking status like some of its

remarkably slender BVL 318 movement measuring just 3.30mm.

counterparts in the fascinating Octo Finissimo collection, the

This extraordinary timepiece secured its place as the world’s thin-

Skeleton 8 Days watch is undeniably impressive. It harnesses

nest automatic chronograph, with the added complexity of a

192 hours of energy from the in-house Caliber BVL 199 SK hous-

GMT complication.

CASE: Sandblasted 18 carat pink gold, sapphire crystals front and back, water resistance to 30m SIZE: 40 x 5.15mm MOVEMENT: BVL 138 calibre, ultra-thin automatic, 3 Hz, 60h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds BRACELET: Pink gold bracelet with double folding clasp

SPORTY, OPULENT, INNOVATIVE Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Ref. 103661 (2022)

CASE: Stainless steel, water-resistant to 100m, transparent case back SIZE: 43 x 8.75mm DIAL: Silvered with vertical brushes finishing, rhodium-plated hour-markers with SLN MOVEMENT: BVL 318, ultra-thin automatic, 3 Hz, 60h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, small seconds, second time zone, chrono functions BRACELET: Satin-polished stainless steel bracelet and folding clasp

THE ALLURE OF SOPHISTICATION With every fresh iteration of the beloved Octo Finissimo model, the use of novel materials and finishes breathes new life into its appearance, unveiling a beguiling and distinct aesthetic. While

ing a single barrel and measuring a mere 2.5mm thick. When the

The following year, this ultra-thin marvel found a new home

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days returned in 2023 in full

in a larger steel case, donning an exquisite blue dial. In 2022, Bul-

in history as a record-holder, it is only fitting to reserve a special

titanium attire, adorned in the monochromatic style of the col-

gari unveiled yet another iteration, an all-steel version featuring

spot for the 2020 version, cast in sandblasted pink gold – a true

lection, it received a warm welcome.

a silver-toned dial, perfectly encapsulating the iconic aesthetic

showstopper.

This hand-wound Octo Finissimo timepiece, crafted from

synonymous with the Octo Finissimo lineage.

the titanium Octo Finissimo Automatic from 2017 etched its place

The Octo Finissimo Automatic possesses dimensions that make

titanium encompassing the 40mm-dimaeter and 5.95mm-thick

Bulgari’s decision to fortify the Octo Finissimo case for

it a true standout. With a 40mm width and 45mm lug-to-lug

case, integrated bracelet and dial, is slightly thicker than the

enhanced durability and water resistance ushered in a sportier,

length, its flat caseback ensures an even and comfortable fit on

classic Octo Finissimo Automatic yet boasts an impressive week-

more robust timepiece ideal for everyday wear. While the stain-

the wrist. Its wide lugs establish a broad and balanced connec-

long power reserve. The case maintains the intricate design sig-

less steel case experienced a slight enlargement, expanding from

tion point between the case and bracelet, akin to the comfort of a

nature of the Octo Finissimo collection – with its combination

42mm to 43mm and an increase in thickness from 6.90mm to

cuff. This design endows the Octo Finissimo with a wrist presence

of octagonal and round shapes, as well as the use of sandblasted

8.75mm, this transformation came with a significant payoff: an

unlike any other watch, especially the Octo Finissimo Automatic

titanium, the preferred metal for most models in the Octo Finis-

impressive surge in water resistance from 30m to 100m. Remark-

Ref. 102912, in sandblasted pink gold. Its aesthetic radiates moder-

simo collection – thus creating a distinct aesthetic and delivering

ably, the case retained its slim and intricate octagonal architec-

nity, style, and a sense of luxurious fun when adorning the wrist.

a unique ownership experience. Again, this watch may not be a

ture, replete with a myriad facets. Bulgari harnessed the inher-

Within this captivating case design resides Bulgari’s automatic

record-breaker, but it is very much on at the pinnacle Octo Finis-

ent qualities of steel, introducing a captivating blend of textures,

BVL 138 movement. In any iteration, the Octo Finissimo Auto-

simo’s achievements.

from a radial-brushed bezel to vertically satin-finished surfaces

matic manifests an unmistakable air of luxury and sophistica-

on the case and bracelet, embellished with polished accents.

tion, with this movement showcasing the level of craftsmanship required to compete at this echelon.

90

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

91

Although it may appear identical in form to its titanium counterpart, the ceramic Octo Finissimo Automatic is constructed with a distinct approach.

A TECHNICAL AND AESTHETIC CHALLENGE Among the materials now gracing the Octo Finissimo collection, ceramic takes its rightful place, with only a few ceramic models possessing a magnetic allure. From various perspectives, the matte black ceramic Octo Finissimo Automatic (2019) emerges as a resounding success story.

The Automatic Ref. 103077 is a timepiece nearly entirely composed of ceramic. Except for the movement, hands and bracelet pins, every element, from the dial to the clasp, exudes ceramic craftsmanship. Although it may

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic Automatic Ref. 103077 (2019) CASE: Black ceramic, water-resistant to

30m, transparent caseback SIZE: 40 x 5.5mm DIAL: Ceramic MOVEMENT: BVL138, ultrathin automatic, 3Hz, 60h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds BRACELET: Black ceramic with a folding clasp

92

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Octo Finissimo Automatic Ref. 102713 (2017)

CASE: Sandblasted titanium, transparent caseback, water resistance to 30m SIZE: 40 x 5.15mm DIAL: Titanium dial, black hands with PVD treatment MOVEMENT: BVL 138 calibre, ultra-thin automatic, 3 Hz, 60h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds BRACELET: Titanium with folding clasp

THE STRENGTH OF A STYLE The Octo Finissimo Automatic marked Bulgari’s third world record achievement in ultra-thin (5.15mm) watchmaking. It succeeded the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon from 2014, which boasted a remarkably slim 1.95mm thick movement, and the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater from 2016, equipped with Caliber BVL 362 measuring a mere 3.12mm. Still, it’s safe to say that the more accessible Octo Finissimo Automatic with its BVL 138 self-winding micro-rotor movement, only 2.23mm thick and 36.60mm in diameter, played a pivotal role in solidifying the iconic status of the Octo Finissimo series.

appear identical in form to its titanium counterpart, the ceramic Octo Finis-

The Octo Finissimo Automatic resides within the distinct multi-faceted case that

simo Automatic is constructed with a distinct approach. Crafting it is a

defines the collection. Crafted from sandblasted titanium with a titanium dial, it marked

challenge, as traditional screws cannot be used with ceramic. Instead, the

the second record-breaking ultra-thin Bulgari watch presented in this material, eventu-

ceramic case middle is nestled between the bezel and back. The bezel consists

ally becoming the series’ signature look. Bulgari combined Swiss watchmaking expertise

of a ceramic cap atop a titanium inner bezel, featuring tubes to accommodate

with Italian design flair, forging a powerful combination that enabled the brand to excel

not the conventional caseback screws but hex-head bolts instead. These bolts

in numerous technical categories while maintaining a distinctive design language.

secure the entire case structure by entering through the back and traversing

Over the years, as observers have doubtless noticed, Bulgari has released various itera-

special shafts into the titanium bezel, effectively holding the watch together.

tions of the Automatic to underscore its willingness to experiment with diverse materi-

Beyond its technical achievements, the Octo Finissimo Ceramic Automatic

als and textures. Nevertheless, with its matte, textured appearance, the sandblasted

seamlessly marries this cutting-edge caliber with an elaborate, lightweight

titanium Octo Finissimo Automatic remains an exceptional standout.

ceramic case and captivatingly monochromatic ceramic dial, resulting in a watch of unparalleled style.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

93

Interview BRICE LECHEVALIER

Serpenti Misteriosi Monete Catene Secret Watches

“Bulgari could double the turnover of all its divisions fairly quickly.”

Jean-Christophe Babin CEO Bulgari Group

must be backed by watchmaking schools like those we’ve set up in the field of jewellery, but what a joy it is to enable so

the spectrum, Bulgari fragrances bring in new Gen Z custom-

many people to blossom and grow with us!

ers who still have modest means; and at the other end, Bulgari hotels are the most expensive in the world and welcome high

You initiated the Geneva Watch Days event which has

wealth individuals who are naturally willing to treat themselves

clearly turned a corner with this fourth edition, but do

to our watches and jewelry.

you think it has reached cruising speed?

You are one of the emblematic bosses who have made

ched our maximum capacity, because the concept itself has

In terms of the number of brands, we’re far from having rea-

Bulgari unveiled some very bold new products at Geneva

the other hand new niche brands are emerging and rapidly gain-

their mark on the watch industry, having won two

no capacity or space limits, insofar as each brand arranges its

Watch Days. Is boldness part of the brand’s philosophy?

ing notoriety because they bring freshness. Take the example of

‘Aiguilles d’Or’ awards at the GPHG for two different

participation according to its needs and means, relying on bou-

Boldness has been embedded in Bulgari’s DNA since the com-

Geneva Watch Days, which united 40 brands, two-thirds of which

brands, as well as founding Geneva Watch Days in an

tiques or hotel suites. If next year we attract 50 or 60, that’s no

pany was founded in 1884: Sotirio Bulgari was a Greek immi-

are not yet very well known to the general public, yet are still suc-

entrepreneurial and unifying spirit. What else might

problem, and given the success of the first four editions, along

grant who came to Italy to set up his jewellery workshop in

cessful — as shown by our panels which revealed they have earned a

still nurture your career?

with the massive support of Geneva’s watchmaking institu-

Rome, and his vision was to sell his creations directly to custom-

total of 60 GPHG awards, including two ‘Aiguille d’Or’ best-in-show

Above all, I want to keep going, because Bulgari is still in its

tions, it seems obvious that we’re going to step up the promo-

ers rather than through wholesalers. So boldness is very much

prizes. The general public is gradually discovering them through

infancy. This may seem paradoxical given how far we’ve come

tion of this event. I don’t think it’s just a watch fair, but rather

part of Bulgari.

similar events and we can expect them to break through and forge

in 10 years, yet I’m convinced that this brand has a potential

a genuine forum and platform for exchanges. While the pre-

the future of Swiss haute horlogerie, which is resilient but needs to

that’s hugely underestimated, whether in watchmaking,

sentation of new products is of course important, the educa-

integrate new players like this along with their creations.

jewellery or the luxury hotel business. We could quite easily

tional and informative part of the event is an enormous boost

double our turnover relatively quickly, it’s entirely feasible.

to our understanding of watchmaking. The desire for horology

As CEO of the Bulgari Group, are you observing any particular trends in luxury goods beyond watchmaking?

94

to the Bulgari community, drawing on our other fields of expertise to increase the desirability of watchmaking. At one end of

We were seeing certain tendencies prior to Covid that have since

When you look to the future of Bulgari, what would you like

Some brands are twice our size and if they could do it, it’s

can inspire vocations and attract both young customers and

been amplified, resulting in fewer purchases yet higher value,

to see?

within our reach, especially as Bulgari is on a roll.

young recruits, to whom we give the opportunity to discover

with many customers empowering themselves to consume lux-

Bulgari’s future lies in respecting its Roman roots, which are an

We focus our communication on unique points of attraction,

our professions. Our auction indeed helped finance a dozen

ury by paying attention to authenticity, craftsmanship, quality,

integral part of the brand’s success, as well as in remaining true

while differentiating ourselves through a blend of inclusion

scholarships for the Geneva Watchmaking School. At Geneva

durability and in fact the entire range of our brand values. As a

to the boldness and innovation that have forged its DNA. We want

and diversity. Bulgari expresses itself through personalities as

Watch Days, the experience is as important as the commercial

jeweller, we’re fortunate in that preciousness is inherently part

to integrate technology into the beauty of watchmaking in order

strong and varied as Zendaya, Lisa, Anne Hathaway and Liu

dimension, and we are not in competition with — but rather

of our offering and everything we create conveys rarity and intrin-

to make our watches even more appealing, for example with a

Yife. It’s a brand that speaks to women locally and globally,

complementary to — other watchmaking events, both in terms

sic value, while everyone knows that precious stones are rare and

sculpted QR code giving access to a digital universe revealing all

whatever their culture, something that is quite unique in the

of timing and participating brands. I’d like to accentuate this

that gold is a safe-haven asset. This is also true of watches.

the nano-components powering a watch, without compromising

luxury sector. However, one of my greatest professional satis-

platform approach while continuing to attract other brands,

In addition, we’re witnessing an accelerating polarisation of

in terms of mechanical expertise and yet without becoming a tech

factions lies in the 4,500 jobs we’ve created in five years, across

including so that retailers and journalists can meet as many

the market, with the big brands gaining importance, while on

brand. We will also increase the emotional importance of belonging

our entire range of skills. It’s a huge HR challenge, which

participants as possible at the event.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

95

Icon OLIVIER MÜLLER

New development of the Aquanaut Luce for women, with a larger diameter (38.8mm) and a new composite strap. The Aquanaut for men is complemented by the arrival of the first white gold chronograph (Ref. 5968G).

“The Aquanaut has found its own audience, more adventurous than that of the Nautilus. It’s gradually becoming a classic and a safe investment.”

Aquanaut The adventurer dials it down a notch

From poor relation… To superstar? Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut is causing a stir among collectors, investors and auction houses alike. We take a closer look at a model that has enjoyed a singular trajectory.

T

CASTING A SHADOW

ROWING AGAINST THE FASHION TIDE

The Aquanaut’s early years were nonetheless spent in the

This creative approach may come as a surprise, as in the late 1990s, between

shadow of its elder sibling, the Nautilus. While the two

the Royal Oak Offshore and the new Panerai, the trend was very much for

admittedly have something in common — they were super-

ultra-massive, showy tool watches. Oversize was definitely in, yet for its

vised by Gérald Buchs, who joined Patek Philippe in 1969

Aquanaut, Patek Philippe decided to go in the exact opposite direction.

and became creative director in the 1990s — that’s where

Diameters were reduced and variations appeared in gold, while others

the comparison ends: the Nautilus (1976) is the work of

were gem-set. This proved a wise choice, according to an informed collec-

Gérald Genta, while the Aquanaut (1996) is a pure in-house

tor: “Most XXL pieces from the late 1990s have not aged well, while these

creation, even though some aesthetic similarities are

early Aquanauts are still relevant, elegant and wearable today.”

clearly apparent.

Patek Philippe didn’t develop the next model until 2004, in the form

Representing an unusual case within the watch industry,

of three ladies’ variations with gem-set bezels. The next step was a new

the Aquanaut immediately established its aesthetic codes: a

movement: Calibre 324 SC. Introduced in 2008, it represents the second

dial and strap with the same textured motif, Arabic numer-

great generation of Aquanaut movements, which it powered for over 15

he Aquanaut is said to have originally been created

together the eight previous Geneva sites under one roof. Philippe

als, a polished bezel, three central hands and a day-date dis-

years. The third generation, still in force, beats mainly to the rhythm of

for one of Saudi Arabia’s army corps. Other sources

Stern, the company president at the time, explains in retrospect

play at three o’clock enlivening almost all interpretations in

the 26-330 SC.

cite the 1997 regime in Libya, with 1,000 of these

that “this increased our reputation and demand duly followed”.

the initial years. Once again, there is an instant connection

timepieces also dedicated to the army. For some

The Aquanaut benefited from this effect, as a youthful time-

with the Nautilus, as the first versions shared almost identi-

A BRIGHT FUTURE

unknown reason, this order was produced by Patek

piece, supported by an ultra-modern manufacture and ideal for

cal diameters and above all the same movement: Calibre 330

Today, the Aquanaut range comprises 20 different references. That’s equiv-

Philippe, yet never delivered. Hence the appearance, between 1996

attracting a new clientele; notwithstanding the fact that Philippe

SC — with the last two letters of its name referring to the cen-

alent to all the references produced between 1997 and 2017, a sign that

and 1997, of this batch of 1,000 units with strong military connota-

Stern shares that “we envisioned it as a watch for young people,

tral seconds hand.

Patek Philippe is relying more and more on its Aquanaut. Nevertheless,

tions, which nevertheless had to be sold…

but they had a hard time acquiring it in the first year, because all

This first generation Aquanaut bears a simple reference

the older, well-established collectors immediately swept up what

number: 5060, covering the first two years of its life. As early

was available, regarding it as the perfect everyday watch.”

as 1998, Patek Philippe realised the need to make its Aqua-

Many admit that its current price is indexed to that of the Nautilus,

This military DNA is reflected in the dial’s domed cut-outs, reminiscent of a grenade casing. Its operational vocation is con-

96

AQUANAUT REF. 5968G,

42.2mm white gold case, self-winding flyback chronograph, calibre CH 28-520 C, presented in a green or blue version

this timepiece remains subject to an ‘in-between’ positioning: not quite recent, but not yet truly vintage.

firmed by a rubber strap. This was a first for a Patek Philippe, even

The momentum was confirmed by a new name associated with

naut more distinctive, to bring it out of the shadow of its

meaning excessively high and disconnected from the market. Within this

if Hublot had already been pioneering the idea for almost 20 years.

the manufacture, namely Philippe Stern’s son Thierry Stern who

predecessor. A new reference, the 5064, was designed for this

speculative ‘bubble’, second hand models sometimes sell for six times the

had just joined the family firm in Geneva. He took the helm of

purpose. It diversified to encompass four diameters (from

boutique price. “For this reason, it makes no sense to buy second hand,”

PIVOTAL YEAR

the brand in 2009 and has always been a fervent supporter of the

29.5mm to 38.8mm) and is equipped with four calibres (two

continues this collector. “The Aquanaut has found its own audience, more

The 1996 launch year is significant, when Patek Philippe inau-

Aquanaut: “A sports watch that can be worn anywhere, and that’s

quartz, two mechanical). Patek Philippe also tried out a gold

adventurous than that of the Nautilus. It is gradually becoming a classic

gurated the huge manufacture that still exists today, bringing

exactly what I like”.

version and even a gold bracelet fitted on the 1999 collections.

and a safe-haven investment, but not at any price.”

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

97

My Time RACHEL SILVESTRI

Nero Sabbia mechaquartz timepiece, Furlan Marri

In the mix

One of watchmaking’s most exciting — and most affordable — new brands is the result of a coming together of Swiss and Saudi Arabian minds. Discover Furlan Marri, where two cultures clash in the most spectacular way.

Hamad Al Marri and Andrea Furlan snatch a gong at the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

98

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

W

hile appreciation for fine watchmaking

forming his own brand. Andrea’s passion also grew from

is a hallmark of Gulf Arab culture, the

his youth, but the tools of the trade almost literally fell

production of high-end timepieces has

into his lap – in the shape of a watchmaker’s cabinet with

more often than not been left to Euro-

pocket watch components and paperwork from Vallée

pean brands. And while big-name horologers may often

de Joux and Le Brassus, left to him by his grandfather.

tip their hats to Middle Eastern mores – the incorporation

It’s this affection for the past that’s paid tribute to in the

of Eastern Arabic numerals, flag colours and regional

attention to detail and impeccable storytelling found in

materials in timepieces aften comes alongside region-

Furlan Marri timepieces, a fact that was recognised by

specific launches – few and far between are the Maisons

the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2021.

with a personal understanding of the wants and needs of their Arab clients.

Andrea and Hamad kickstarted their partnership by crowdsourcing funding for a mechaquartz chronograph,

Enter Furlan Marri. The brainchild of co-founders Swiss

reviving a Swiss and Japanese quartz crisis invention that

national Andrea Furlan and Saudi Arabian Hamad Al

combines a mechanical module with a quartz base. From

Marri, this is a friendship and a business based on a love

one crisis to another, this mid-pandemic project reached

of watchmaking that’s drawn international attention.

its funding target in less than 30 seconds and made it

While Andrea’s industrial design background and experi-

from drawing board to wrist in less than year. It scooped

ence in watchmaking with Chopard, Hublot and Domi-

the Horological Revelation Prize at the GPHG, a stunning

nique Renaud of Renaud & Papi prepared him completely

achievement for such a young brand. Building on the

for the launch of a new, unique brand, Hamad’s flair for

momentum, Furlan Marri now offers a variety of mecha-

the arts and fascination with independent watchmaking

quartz and mechanical timepieces, all while fighting to

made them a match made in creative heaven.

keep standards high and prices realistic. They’ve even

Hamad spent his youth building his watch dreams in

partnered with Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier to

auction houses, fascinated by the minutiae of individual

produce a stunningly simple Secular Perpetual Calendar

timepieces, their histories and stories. An Omega Sea-

for the Only Watch auction, another industry milestone.

master, gifted to him by his father at the age of 14, was

Here, GMT GCC catches up with both Andrea and Hamad

the starting point his own significant collection, a bur-

about their vision of the past, the importance of truth,

geoning passion for horology and, eventually, the idea of

and their dreams for the future. 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

99

GMT GCC: Can you tell us how your partnership began?

watchmaking makes for something very interesting. Can you

You’re refreshingly candid about your supply chain and assembly locations

Andrea: I believe it’s the first venture ever between Saudi and

elaborate a little and tell me how this particular combo makes

— why is such transparency so important to you?

Swiss. I worked with Dominique Renaud for four years on a very

you stand out?

Andrea: It’s so important, because a lot of people think that ‘Swiss Made’ means

special project, and it’s during that time that I met Hamad – he was

Andrea: We find a lot of inspiration from the contrasting styles of

100 per cent Swiss made, but there are rules that state that just 60 per cent has

interested in our project and since then we’ve always kept in touch.

architecture, and the merging of colour traditions from Europe and

to be made in Switzerland to qualify as Swiss Made. I think that some of the big

As an artist and collector he has an eye for design, and we later met

the Middle East that we use on our dials. Hamad’s artistic and cre-

brands aren’t always totally truthful. That’s why right there on our website we

again in person at an auction in Geneva. It was after my time living

ative side, that, for me, stems from his heritage, combines with

state exactly where our components come from, but we also have our Swiss pat-

in China and Los Angeles that we decided to get together and form

his collector’s mind, which we then put into the Swiss industrial

ents for our innovations — we have a perpetual calendar patented and we also

Furlan Marri, right in the middle of Covid. I was in Geneva, he was

and watchmaking history. It can create a nice contrast and design

have a patent pending for another complication. So this transparency is very

in Saudi, both of us working together in the ‘digital world’. We have

tension between elements that aren’t used to being put together.

important, and at the same time we don’t stop innovating in Switzerland itself.

continued in this vein, only digital, with low-budget marketing.

What’s important for us is if the workmanship is there, and a strict quality con-

Hamad: I feel proud and happy about what we have created. The

You’re often cited as the first Saudi fine watchmaker

trol. Having lived in China and Los Angeles, I know some key people there and

inspiration came from the passion and love I have for watches,

— is that true?

they are along for this journey with us.

as a collector since young age, and also from art as I’m an artist

Hamad: I’ve learned that a brand called Aviator was actually the

and I like to design and sketch new ideas – even though I’m not a

first GCC/Swiss watch brand, founded by the Saudi businessman

What are your plans for the future of Furlan Marri? What can we expect to

designer like my friend and partner Andrea!

and pilot Mr Yeslam Bin Ladin!

see in the coming months and years?

For a pair of young-looking guys, your aesthetic and the soul

How is the Middle Eastern market responding to your watches?

towards our future vision to have three lines of watches — mechaquartz, mechan-

of the brand really does seem to have a vintage, classic spirit.

Do you think that having a Saudi co-founder gives you an ‘edge’?

ical and also a technical line. The idea is that the technical line will have more

Where does your inspiration lie?

Andrea: The Middle Eastern market is responding really well — we

Andrea: I really love the vintage aesthetic. Those shapes are so

have thousands of customers just in Qatar, which is great for us, so

appealing and there’s a diversity between sharp and curved lines,

maybe next year we might try to open something there, perhaps a

our three-hand automatic watch and we will have a mechanical chronograph

so many aspects that you can take inspiration from. Diving into

show or a boutique. It’s very good for a small and young brand to be

with column wheel and flyback, among other projects. And for the mechaquartz

these different eras, the 30s, 40s and 50s, and merging them with a

present in a Middle Eastern country, where it can be quite difficult

line we combine the accuracy of quartz with a mechanical feeling, at an entry

modern spirit, is so interesting.

to enter. So that we’re managing it is great for us. Hamad is travel-

level price point. It’s nice that in our brand there’s no compromise between the

ling there all the time, between Dubai, Oman, Saudi, Qatar and

lines — the finish is the same whether mechanical, technical or mechaquartz. It

You’ve mentioned to me before that Furlan Marri’s combina-

other countries, so he is getting the word around by meeting with

keeps us developing in the right direction.

tion of Middle Eastern tradition and the Swiss perspective on

collectors on his travels.

Andrea: The Only Watch creation was a big deal for us, and has helped us work

100 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Castagna mechaquartz chronograph, Furlan Marri

innovation and simplification in a variety of complications, such as the perpetual calendar. The mechanical line will focus on automatic movements, so we have

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

101

Philanthropy RACHEL SILVESTRI

The show must go on

Postponed until 2024, the future of mega-charity auction Only Watch is in question — and in the meantime we will wait with bated breath to find out what will happen to the collection of magnificent timepieces that was due to go under the hammer in November 2023. GMT GCC caught up with founder Luc Pettavino before the postponement, as he explained where the money goes and the good it does.

102 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

W

Only Watch auction, originally sched-

dystrophy over the past 20 years. In a statement, Luc Pet-

uled to take place on 5 November this year. Amid strife

tavino, founder of OW and Chairman of AMM said: “We

in the Middle East that saw a whole host of high-profile

will continue to move forward, providing even more infor-

regional events understandably cancelled or rescheduled,

mation on the virtuous and extraordinary actions we have

yet another postponement seemed par for the course.

achieved. The agility that characterises us has enabled us

But, sadly, as questions were raised about the allocation

to make exceptional progress. One of our greatest joys is

of funds by Only Watch’s parent charity the Association

knowing, as we write these lines, that a group of children

Monégasque Contre les Myopathies (AMM), it wasn’t just

and young adults have been included in a clinical trial

the Dubai leg of the timepieces’ world tour that came to a

made possible by the Only Watch funds. It’s tangible, con-

stop, but the whole auction entirely.

crete and gives hope of a cure. That’s what's important.”

atch lovers the world over were in for

ing, insisting that the organisation has been nothing

disappointment when the news spread

but transparent in its dealings — and indeed, has made

about the postponement of the 2023

significant strides in research into Duchenne muscular

With question marks still hanging over where the auc-

Before the furore began, GMT GCC spoke to Luc Pettavino

tion will go from here, a statement from Only Watch

about the good that the charity has done — and continues

put forth a strong condemnation of any talk of wrongdo-

to do. 

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

103

“Year after year Only Watch has gathered a growing community of great collectors attracted by the unique pieces created by watchmakers who are also most of the time very moved by the virtuous cause.”

GMT GCC: It’s the milestone 10th edition of Only Watch, and

The collection of watches for the 2023 auction is really quite

you are now 18 years on from the project’s conception — it

astonishing. What would you say are the highlights or the

must be an emotional moment for you, how are you feeling?

most exciting pieces?

Luc Pettavino: It’s always exciting to start a new edition of Only

The 2023 collection is breathtaking in all of its diversity. What

Watch because it brings about so much positive energy to and

makes it so special is that each piece stands out in its uniqueness:

from everyone. But it’s true that this 10th edition is a special one

there are so many innovations — design and mechanical and so

indeed with an astounding collection of 62 unique lots that truly

many surprises… I believe it gives all watch lovers and enthusiasts

showcase the best of haute horlogerie, in terms of creativity,

items to dream of for months or years to come! Furthermore, the

colours, ingenuity and innovation. It’s also a moment to look

Only Watch dynamic feeds positively on itself: each edition ins-

back to what we have achieved until now and take collective pride

pires everyone to outdo themselves for the next and we believe for

in the progress that Only Watch has allowed in terms of research

this 10th edition we’ve reached new heights in terms of creativity

on Duchenne muscular dystrophy and genetic diseases. We crea-

and innovation.

ted our charity 22 years ago and held the first Only Watch 18 years ago. Today, we’ve raised about CHF/EUR100 million [Dhs400 mil-

How does it feel to have the enduring support of the watch

lion] and are on the road to clinical trials on a proprietary mole-

industry and wider community?

cule that could change the lives of many. We never know for sure

It’s a privilege, for sure! Year after year Only Watch has gathered

if it’s going to work, but it’s an important milestone that we

a growing community of great collectors attracted by the unique

should all recognise as such.

pieces created by watchmakers who are also most of the time very moved by the virtuous cause. This philanthropic cause is the

Can you let us in on a little of how the Only Watch story

link that holds the community together. While of course there is

began? From the first auction to today

much excitement about the watches, the focus remains on the

it’s been such an

incredible journey.

cause behind the auction.

Only Watch was launched in 2005 in Monaco — at the Monaco Yacht Show, of which I was the CEO — with 34 participating

Can you let us in on a little more about the Only Project, its

watchmakers and Antiquorum as the auctioneer. It’s been quite

progress and how Only Watch has supported it so far?

an incredible journey that started with the same main ingredient

The Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, at the origin

that makes it work today: consistency, human-to-human trust

of the Only Project and funded by Only Watch, has been active

and commitment. The first auction allowed us to raise EUR1.9

internationally since 2001 with the mission to find a cure for

million [Dhs5.9 million] and opened the beginning of a new

Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a genetic condition that affects

chapter for our charity and our cause. Since then, the project has

one boy in 3,500 and leads to progressive muscle deterioration,

become bigger and brighter than what we could all have hoped

loss of autonomy and eventually premature death. Thus, Only

for, creating a great federating moment in the watchmaking

Watch has funded very significant scientific and medical pro-

industry’s calendar and a true beacon of hope in research for a

gress, among them a possible therapy developed by long-stan-

therapy for Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

ding research partners that is currently being tested in a phase one safety clinical trial. Numerous research programmes to better understand the disease and develop other therapeutic avenues are supported by the charity, through grants for doctoral and post-doctoral studies, and ad hoc research teams.

104 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

105

Focus

Focus

MARIE DE PIMODAN

DAVID CHOKRON

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

ARMIN STROM

Timeless sophistication In the far-off lands of Saxony-based watchmaking, the rhythm chosen by A. Lange & Söhne runs counter to the general trend. While the brand has launched over 70 in-house calibers since 1991, the frantic race for new models has no place there. The second model unveiled this year during Watches and Wonders Shanghai is the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, a fine opportunity to reaffirm A. Lange & Söhne’s absolute mastery of precision, energy management and design. A 41.9mm platinum case, a black solid silver dial and a tone-on-tone large date display – so much for its exterior characteristics. As far as the mechanical part

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar

CASE: 950/1000 platinum, sapphire caseback SIZE: 41.9mm MOVEMENT: Mechanical self-winding (Calibre L021.3, 50h power reserve) FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar with jumping displays for the large date, day of the week, month and leap year; moon phases with integrated day/night indicator DIAL: Black solid silver STRAP: Leather, platinum pin buckle PRICE: On request

Entering a new cycle Reissuing old models, improving and revisiting them, is more than just a driver in watch design. It’s also proof that a brand has enough heritage to justify such an update, and that it has stood the test of time. Ten years after the launch of its first watch with a manufacture movement, Armin Strom is pursuing this path. The One Week First Edition symbolises the passage of a mile-

is concerned, it features an impressive number of technical ‘details’ that tend

stone, the crossing of a cycle: not the seven-day cycle, like the power reserve

towards the same goal of precision. Perpetual calendar with jumping displays

after which the original One Week was named, but a much longer cycle testify-

for the date, month and leap year; moon phases coupled to the minute hand

ing to the relevance, durability and ingenuity of the small Biel-based brand.

(rather than the hour hand) with integrated day/night indicator thanks to a sky

The One Week First Edition naturally also gains in maturity with a series of

disk dissociated from the engraved moon… These ‘details’, which in fact are far

essential improvements. The most visible part is an update of certain details:

more than that, are just as impressive as the legibility of this timepiece, which

the addition of the metal bracelet, a more demure background featuring strong

stands out as a variation on a technical theme already well known at A. Lange &

3D skeletonisation, as well as the use of a sky blue colour on the dial-side part of

Sohne and of which we are unlikely to tire anytime soon.

the movement. Nonetheless, since One Week formed the bedrock of the inimi-

Armin Strom One Week First Edition

CASE: Steel, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback, water-resistant to 100m SIZE: 41mm in diameter, 10.60mm thick MOVEMENT: Mechanical, skeletonised, hand-wound, ARM21 calibre with seven-day power reserve, twin barrel FUNCTIONS: Hours and minutes, small seconds DIAL: Black small seconds, chapter ring with Super-LumiNovaenhanced appliqués BRACELET: Steel, three links, secured by a steel folding clasp LIMITED EDITION: 25 PRICE: CHF 32,000 (Dhs130,000 approx.)

table Armin Strom style, the kinship is strong and the design clearly lasting.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

Technical sophistication dedicated to serving elegance and functionality, illustrated by the integration of the day/night function on the moon phase, which visually simplifies the dial design.

106 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

The strong and pared-down skeletonisation along with the shift from a radical techno-watchmaking style to a more controlled, softer form.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

107

Focus

Focus

OLIVIER MÜLLER

CHRISTOPHE ROULET

AUDEMARS PIGUET

BIANCHET

Mathematical

transparency

Offshore Distilled Thirty years after its creation, the Royal Oak Offshore has matured. From the XXL frenzies of its adolescence, the timepiece has retained its power, which has now been mastered and refined. Its new black and gold version is here to remind us of this. Its 43mm diameter confirms that this is still an essentially masculine timepiece. The sporty orientation is accentuated by a tricompax chronograph appearing against a Méga-Tapisserie motif as contemporary as the Offshore itself (the timepiece was created in 1993, the Méga-Tapisserie pattern in 2002). The technique is on a par with the aesthetics. The faceted case and bezel are extremely complex, highlighted by dedicated finishes. Materials, contrast and volumes

Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph

CASE: Black ceramic case and bezel, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, black ceramic pushers and screw-down crown, yellow gold crown guard, water-resistant to 100m SIZE: 43mm MOVEMENT: Self-winding Calibre 4401, 70-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS: Chronograph with flyback, hours, minutes, small seconds and date DIAL: Méga Tapisserie pattern STRAP: Black alligator, 18 carat yellow gold pin buckle, additional interchangeable black rubber strap PRICE: EUR 59,500 (Dhs234,000 approx.)

Bianchet was founded in 2017 and lost no time in showing its true colors — those of a rebellious watchmaking style bold enough to compete with grand watchmaking traditions, yet in a perfectly uninhibited style that dares to ‘strip off the top’. A second opus from the Maison, on a mechanical level the model proudly displays its skeletonised movement complete with flying tourbillon and large date, but in a mathematically-engineered structure featuring titanium bridges and governed by the famous golden

Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618

CASE: Tonneau-shaped, made of high-density titanium-powder-injected carbon composite, water resistant to 100m, weighing 55 grams excluding strap SIZE: 43 x 51mm MOVEMENT: Skeletonised mechanical handwound, 60-second flying tourbillon, 3Hz, 90h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, large date STRAP: Vulcanised natural rubber PRICE: CHF 65,500 (Dhs267,000 approx.), 200-piece limited edition

ratio and the Fibonacci sequence. The same principles have been

assert a strong, robust personality. Combining the power of gold with the hard-

applied to the case, made of high-density carbon composite

ness of ceramic, this Royal Oak Offshore is not here to negotiate, it’s here to make

injected with titanium powder. The result is an extra-light watch

a statement.

weighing just 55 grams, water resistant to 100 meters and made to withstand shocks of 5000G in its high-tech livery.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

The uncompromising aesthetic approach. The perfectly-preserved Offshore spirit, yet tamed and moderated. The chromatic and functional complementarity of gold and ceramic.

108 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

The airy, mathematical architecture of a movement in the grand watchmaking tradition, capable of withstanding anything in its composite ‘shell’.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

109

The reason reasonyou you talk with withyour your hands. Since Since1975.

1975.

Focus HYT

CHRISTOPHE ROULET

Magic tourbillon HYT is celebrating its tenth anniversary with a conical tourbillon. This exceptional mechanism combines the brand’s famous fluidic bellows mechanism used to provide a retrograde hours display and a pointer-type central minutes indication with a brand-new regulator created by Eric Coudray, winner of the 2012 Prix Gaïa. The master watchmaker drew inspiration from the unique inclined-balance tourbillon developed by Walter Prendel in 1928 to improve the regulator’s stability and performance.

This new construction, christened “Cônillon” (short for conical tourbil-

Tourbillon Conique Saphirs Infinis

CASE: pink gold and black DLC titanium, water-resistant to 30m

DIMENSIONS: 48 x 52.30mm, 25.15mm thick MOVEMENT: 701-TC hand-wound using a dedicated tool, 533 components, 21,600vph, 42h power reserve FUNCTIONS: fluidic retrograde hours, minutes by central hand, inclined tourbillon with “chaotic” animation DIAL: brass with black coating, luminescent numerals and logo STRAP: black rubber with embossed brown leather decoration 8-PIECE LIMITED EDITION PRICE: CHF 390,000

lon) features a balance-spring inclined at various angles in relation to the horizontal plane: 30° for the balance-spring, 15° for the escape wheel and 23° for the pallet lever. The conical tourbillon positioned in the dial center performs a 30-second clockwise rotation, with three colored sapphires featuring counterweights nestled around its periphery and respectively turning at a rate of four, five and six revolutions per minute. The result of these multiple rotations is a sight that may appear chaotic, yet is in fact perfectly orchestrated by the path of the tourbillon. The entire movement is housed in a black DLC-treated titanium and gold tonneau-shaped case with an imposing 48x52mm size and measuring 25.15mm thick.

Laureato LaureatoBlue.

Blue.100% 100%by byus. us.Design Designand andmovement, movement, since day one.

230 years manufacturing exclusivity. since day one. 230 years manufacturing exclusivity.

From Fromour ourwatchmakers watchmakerstotoyou. you.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

The way Eric Coudray has reinvented a complication more than two centuries old, giving it an unprecedented spatiality backed by solid mechanical justification.

110 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

111

Focus

Focus

OLIVIER MÜLLER

YANNICK NARDIN

GRAND SEIKO

GREUBEL FORSEY

Carbon, augmented

Mount Iwate, a European exclusive

When Greubel Forsey, renowned for its uncompromising quest for excellence, set out for the first time to create a carbon case for its Double Balancier Convexe, the result was bound to stand out from the crowd. The brand’s requirements led

Grand Seiko is one of haute horlogerie’s best-kept secrets, but an increasingly shared one — which is an excellent thing. A movement 100 per cent manufactured in Japan, a high-level Zaratsu polished finish and an extremely elaborate dial are the key features of this 400-piece limited edition for Europe, offered in a very elegant 36.5mm diameter. The 2023 edition of this boutique-exclusive model features a dial inspired by Mount Iwate, as seen from the Shizukuishi Watch Studio where Grand Seiko creations are made. It expresses the beauty of autumn landscapes

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 2023 Europe Exclusivity — SBGW303

CASE: Stainless steel, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 100m SIZE: 36.5mm in diameter, 11.6mm thick MOVEMENT: Hand-wound mechanical, Calibre 9S64, 4Hz, 72-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds BRACELET: Steel, triple folding clasp PRICE: EUR 6,300 (Dhs24,745 approx.)

it to opt for carbon that is even more durable and resistant thanks to its superior density, achieved by means of 16-ton pressure (compared to the standard two tons). The material’s veined aesthetic accentuates the lines of the case middle.

However, the real challenge posed by this fibre-structure material lies in the manual execution of the finishing touches. Satin-brushing, matt finishing and embossed engravings are all featured in this unmistakably Greubel Forseystyle case. Combined with a diameter trimmed to 42.5mm, the use of carbon

when the slopes adopt a complex variety of colors, amid which the deep green of

places the Double Balancier Convexe firmly on the side of (sporty) lightness and

the forest mingles with the yellows, reds and oranges of autumn foliage. This dis-

high-tech technicality.

Double Balancier Convexe Carbon

CASE: Carbon and titanium, water-resistant to 50m SIZE: 42.5mm in diameter, 13.75mm thick MOVEMENT: Hand-wound, with double balance, two coaxial barrels, variable-inertia balance, 72h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 4-minute constant spherical differential rotation, power reserve DIAL: Black or green-treated titanium bridges and plate STRAP: non-animal material or rubber LIMITED EDITION: 22 for the black version, 22 for the green version PRICE: CHF 345,000 (Dhs1.4 million approx.)

tinctive creation is perfectly executed with delightfully Japanese-style restraint.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

The link with the brand’s history, the modest diameter, the three-day power reserve and the absence of a date that creates a pure dial aesthetic.

112 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

The convex shape of the case hugging the wrist and highlighting the movement, specifically designed for this three-dimensional aesthetic.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

113

Focus HERMÈS

YANNICK NARDIN

Vibrant yet not

overstated

In 2021, Hermès unveiled the H08, its sportiest watch yet. The Hermès horological DNA was unmistakable in this new model with its geometric curving design featuring a round shape in a rounded square. Its recent ‘Colours’ versions offer a palette of orange, royal blue, sunshine yellow and khaki green. On this occasion, the 39 x 39mm case seems to have invited the brand to offer a concentrated blend of its style language. There’s nothing flashy here: touches of colour and

Hermès H08

CASE: Composite of aluminised braided fiberglass and slate powder, black ceramic crown and bezel SIZE: 39 x 39mm MOVEMENT: Mechanical self-winding Manufacture Hermès Calibre H1837, 50h power reserve FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL: Varnished and grained STRAP: Blue, orange, yellow or green rubber PRICE: CHF 6,840 (Dhs27,840 approx.)

white enliven the dial with its ‘concrete’ hue and grained varnish, reminiscent of the stamped, grained counters introduced on the chronograph model presented in spring 2023. Through this satin-brushed black ceramic bezel, textured rubber strap and woven fiberglass composite case, Hermès vividly demonstrates its mastery of contrasting materials and watchmaking finishes.

THE EDITORIAL TEAM WAS IMPRESSED BY

The combination of cheerful hues with a ‘concrete’-coloured dial for a model that knows how to place emphasis where it’s required, in a subtly refined manner.

114 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

115

Business BRICE LECHEVALIER

Geneva Watch Days The pivotal edition

State Councillor Delphine Bachmann and Jean-Christophe Babin (Bulgari), surrounded by Geneva Watch Days partners Pascal Ravessoud (FHH), Pauline Zahlaoui (CCIG), Carine Maillard (GPHG) and Brice Lechevalier (GMT Publishing)

A

ccording to Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling,

to swap ideas with passionate people, collectors, partners and

when it comes to Geneva Watch Days “we need

journalists. Each brand has its own autonomy and it’s a perfect

to maintain the informal culture, which is what

format somewhere between Mexican trade fair SIAR and Dubai

participants appreciate.” He feels it’s important

Watch Week.”

for the event to remain a “friendly and pleasant

Above and beyond the unavoidable commercial nature of the

moment where small brands can express themselves”. He is none-

show, Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie, emphasises “the

theless well aware of the stakes involved in its ongoing develop-

variety of the programme, with guided tours, symposia and

ment: “With more brands, we’ll need more infrastructure.”

other talks and meetings, which attracts and appeals to an ever-

Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux,

increasing number of visitors. The auction organized by Phillips,

is also pleased that the original values have been maintained:

under the expert hammer of Aurel Bacs, was the highlight of this

“Geneva Watch Days is continuing to grow in strength and pro-

edition, which is becoming more professional yet without losing

fessionalism, while retaining its initial spirit. Meanwhile, with

its warm character.”

the participation of the FHH and the GPHG, the event has become more unifying.” He also emphasizes “the quality of the exchanges

2024 ALREADY ON THE HORIZON

and this impression that the whole industry is moving in the

The initiator of Geneva Watch Days in 2020, Bulgari CEO Jean-

same direction.”

Christophe Babin now sees it as “a unique forum for ideas, involv-

This feeling of goodwill is shared by Maximilian Büsser, CEO

ing the public, collectors and partners such as the GPHG, the FHH

of MB&F, who still appreciates “the great atmosphere that has

and the Geneva Chamber of Commerce.” He regards it as “a major

remained unchanged, even though the event has grown a lot.

and unmissable institutional event in the world of fine watch-

It’s an event presented by enthusiasts for enthusiasts.” It also

making, perfectly complementing Watches and Wonders.” For

involves a lot of work: “Clearly, the number of brands present,

the next edition, he expects a dozen more brands to be present,

but above all the number of visitors, has taken a huge leap for-

stating that “the official support of the Canton could be intensi-

ward. This was a truly magnificent 2023 edition!”

fied” and wishes to “thank the State Council and Delphine Bachmann in particular for their extraordinary support.”

A SHOT OF ENERGY For its fourth edition from 29 August to 2 September, Geneva Watch Days attracted 8,000 visitors and brought together some 40 brands to unveil their new products to 600 journalists and 300 retailers. With more content, more footfall and yet remaining as people-friendly as ever, the event launched by a group of friends in 2020 has become a major happening in the watchmaking world.

What do its founding members remember about it?

116 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

State Councillor Delphine Bachmann, surrounded by the founding members of Geneva Watch Days: Brice Lechevalier (GMT Publishing), Maximilian Büsser (MB&F), Jean-Christophe Babin (Bulgari), Georges Kern (Breitling), Patrick Pruniaux (Ulysse Nardin), Pierre Jacques (De Bethune), Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk) and Edouard Meylan (H. Moser & Cie.).

The fifth edition is already mobilising and motivating peo-

It’s the same story at Urwerk, whose co-founder Félix Baumgart-

ple, including Felix Baumgartner who feels that “we could fur-

ner said: “GWD is desired and eagerly anticipated. With journal-

ther develop the fun and educational side of this event, as well

ists, customers, retailers and even simple enthusiasts attending,

as emphasising the importance of Geneva as a watchmaking

we all make the effort to celebrate fine watchmaking. It’s an

capital. We are fortunate to be able to showcase the full range

energy shot: we get out of our workshops, meet and share ideas.”

of creativity in our field.” As for Max Büsser, he hopes “that the

Pierre Jacques, CEO of De Bethune, also appreciates the com-

Richemond Hotel will finally open and thus enable many more

munity aspect of the autumn event, and is delighted “to be able

brands to be present within the actual hub of the event.”

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

117

Interview JOLA CHUDY

Home is where the heart is

A new premises for MB&F and a brand new horological machine celebrate the idea of home – but Swiss watchmaking’s iconoclastic indie still wants a start-up mentality to be at the centre of his brand, wherever his team happens to be located. Max Busser tells Jola Chudy about the latest chapter in the MB&F story.

118 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

119

Horological Machine Nº11 Architect

A central flying tourbillon forms the heart of the ‘house’ under a doubledomed sapphire roof. The mechanical movement is manual winding, by turning the case clockwise. The unusual ‘architecture’ of the watch is inspired by the organic, experimental architecture of the mid- to late 1960s ‘bubble houses built by ‘habitologists.

“What if that house was a watch?” asked Max, and this is the result.

Four symmetrical ‘rooms’ reach out from the centre, each with a different function. One shows the time, one the power reserve. Unusually, one aslo shows the temperature thanks to a built in thermometer based on a bimetallic strip. Finally, a fourth ‘room’ allows for the time-setting thanks to a crown. The entire thing turns clockwise, 45 degrees at a time, delivering 72 minutes of power directly to the barrel. Ten rotations achieve a 96 hour reserve of power.

HM11 ARCHITECT – TECHNICAL DETAILS HM11 Architect is available: - in titanium with blue dial plate limited to 25 pieces; - in titanium with red gold dial plate limited to 25 pieces.

Engine Three-dimensional horological engine featuring bevel gears, composed of a flying tourbillon, hours and minutes, a power reserve indicator and temperature measurement,

developed in-house by MB&F. Mechanical movement, manual winding (by turning the entire case clockwise).

Power reserve: 96 hours Balance frequency: 18’000bph/2.5Hz Plates: Blue and 5N PVD treatment Number of movement components: 364 components Number of jewels: 29 jewels Functions/indications Hour and minutes Power reserve Temperature (-20 to 60° Celsius, or 0 to 140° Fahrenheit) Case Grade 5 titanium Display markers: conical rods in stainless steel (Ø 0.50mm to 0.60mm), darker beads in polished titanium and lighter beads in polished aluminium (Ø 1.30mm to 2.40mm).

Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 23mm height Number of case components: 92 components Water resistance: 20m / 68’ / 2ATM Sapphire crystals Sapphire crystals on top, back, and on each chamber-display treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces Sapphire crown Strap & Buckle Rubber strap – white for the blue model and khaki green for the red gold model Titanium tang buckle.

As we know, MB&F founder Max Busser loves to travel – so much

the better part of two years. One day during a visit of the umpteenth

MB&F M.A.D.1.GREEN has got watch lovers in a spin, but

They have very much remained the pillars of MB&F – We have

so that he even brought his Swiss watch brand to Dubai. Today

boring office, I saw this beautiful old house through a window, and

of course is available only to a lucky few by lottery. From

added a fourth dimension stemming from our own experi-

there are MB&F M.A.D.Gallery (M.A.D. stands for Mechanical Art

told the realtor THAT was what I was really looking for. Instead

a brand perspective why did you decide to introduce this

ence: inspiring people to take more risks, be more creative and

Devices) in Geneva, Taipei, Dubai and Hong Kong.

of shrugging me off, he actually said “well maybe something can

‘accessible but almost impossible to acquire’ watch and

follow their own path in life.

Now, happily ensconced in a stunning new property in which the

be done”. I had no idea that the space I was visiting and the old

has the subsequent frenzied desire for MB&F watches

What was the most challenging period of MB&F, and do

team will doubtless create and develop even more mechanical mar-

house were both owned by the same family. The rest is history.

reached its apex yet?

you think your toughest years are now behind you?

The M.A.D. 1 was solely created for friends and family. It was

Every era had its own challenges. The first ten years were bru-

With a big house – will we see bigger quantities released at

originally only offered to the artisans who had worked with us

tal. We had some very scary moments and came close to bank-

MB&F?

and the clients who had bought MB&F pieces. It was meant as

ruptcy a few times. From 2014 to 2019 it was a little easier but

Dubai Watch Week is now a highlight of the watchmaking

From 2013 to 2021 we had willingly decided to remain at the same

a thank you and then took a life of its own – something we had

still very tough and I maybe fell into a pattern. 2020 and the

industry calendar, but of course MB&F was the first Swiss

size – which meant productions oscillating between 210 to 280

not anticipated and it scared us a lot. We cannot allow M.A.D.

pandemic helped me shift gears and pivot on many subjects.

watch brand to officially make Dubai home from home. Now

pieces/year. This year we will achieve about 395 pieces but demand

Editions to take energy off our MB&F mission.

The last three years have been incredible. Having said that,

you’ve also got a house in Geneva for the brand? Where does the

is easily five- to tenfold that. That increase was very difficult to

Interestingly it seems the M.A.D. 1 has not only reinforced

the challenges have shifted alongside the paradigms. Our big-

heart of the brand feel most at home these days?

achieve and we do not wish the company to grow anymore over the

MB&F’s image (which is pretty counter-intuitive), it has

gest issues are now making sure our team, which has grown

My home is Dubai, MB&F’s home is in Geneva. Have been living

next three years.

also allowed some of our more conservative clients who

substantially, will maintain a start-up attitude whilst bring-

only enjoyed Legacy Machines to start eyeing a Horological

ing more process and sustainability to the company.

vels, MB&F unveils its latest horological machine – the HM11 Architect, an ode to experimental design and the idea of home.

a schizophrenic life for nearly ten years and it worked out well for both the brand and my family.

HM11 Architect is your upcoming major release , the latest in

Machine !

the futuristic machines that consistently surprise and defy cat-

What’s your favourite thing about the watchmaking

How did you discover the M.A.D House and what compelled you

egorization. How much fun do you have creating these pieces?

Being creative, thought-provoking and bringing people

industry that isn’t the watches?

to acquire it for MB&F?

That is where I derive by far the most pleasure. Horological

together is part of the world of MB&F. Have these values

The people ! At least those who actually loves watches and

We are actually only renting – it was built in 1907 and has been

Machines are the fundamentals of MB&F. They are the kinetic

evolved since you started?

watchmaking.

owned by the same Geneva family since 1949.

sculptures which define who we are. They allow me to explore free

I was getting very very depressed visiting big aseptic office spaces for

from historical burdens.

120 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

121

Lifestyle: Resort JOLA CHUDY

DESERT ESCAPISM

Discover a world of adventure and retreat amid the dunes, at Dubai’s ultra-luxe Bab Al Shams Desert Resort

Omani escape Hidden in Oman’s northern Musandam Peninsula, just a 2.5-hour

and discover how to make their own scented candles with the sus-

scenic drive from Dubai, Six Senses Zighy Bay has curated an array

tainability team. Fitness enthusiasts can enjoy tennis or archery

of enriching experiences to celebrate the most magical time of the

lessons, while adventure seekers can discover the region from an

year. This secret jewel — surrounded by dramatic landscapes and

adrenaline-fuelled perspective, paragliding through Zighy Bay

with direct access to a pristine beach and turquoise waters of the

with a professional pilot or flying on board a microlight all the

Arabian sea — is the ultimate winter sun destination offering a

way to Dibba town.

laid-back exotic hideaway to spend the holidays this year.

While adults enjoy a well-deserved rest, the little ones will have

A culinary hub in the very heart of Oman, the resort has crafted

the time of their life at Chaica’s Club with an array of exciting

a memorable gastronomic festive itinerary across its array of

activities designed to unleash their creativity and keep them

exceptional venues. On selected dates between 20 December to

amused. From pizza-making classes to palm leaf weaving and a

6 January, guests can experience exceptional dining showcasing

festive treasure hunt, there’s never a dull moment at Six Senses

the best of regional and international cuisines including Shua

Zighy Bay.

Shack’s Bedouin-style setting on the beach. As part of its ongoing mission to promote the rich heritage of Oman, guests can learn

For bookings call +96826735888, email reservations-zighy@sixsenses.com or

about turtles — a precious part of the ecosystem in Zighy Bay —

book through their website at https://www.sixsenses.com/zighy-bay.

Settled tastefully amid the desertscape of Dubai, Bab Al Shams offers weekend nomads the opportunity to unwind and relax in superlative style. Steeped in heritage and a sense of enchanting luxury, the popular weekend destination is ideal for those who are hankering for adventure but without the requirement of a passport stamp or airport security. Pack your bags and indulge in sunkissed, slow afternoons at Zala, where a garden party-style brunch awaits. The experience includes bespoke hampers and live music, the perfect setting to unwind and indulge. After a soporific day at the pool, or indulging in the resort’s spa or hammam, soak up the panoramic views of the sun-drenched Arabian desert at rooftop Anwā Sunset Lounge, accompanied by vibrant DJ beats and acoustics.

122 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

123

Lifestyle: Destinations AISHA JIBRIN

Year-end delights worth celebrating This year was a big one, and it’s not over yet. Toast to your continuing adventures with this array of special festive and year-end activities across the

SAVOUR THE SEASON

Afternoon teas and unforgettable festive moments

UAE to make 2023 go out with a bang. From Christmas dinners and New Year’s

await you in Dubai this winter.

Eve parties to special room offers and theme nights to make your heart sing, GMT GCC’s got you covered.

1

2

1

ARMANI HOTEL DUBAI

Immerse yourself in a culinary journey that fuses tradition with contemporary twists. Savour a six-course festive feast at Armani/Ristorante, recreating rich Italian Christmas culinary traditions with a Michelin-starred touch. The New Year’s celebration, offering a seven-course menu and live entertainment, is equally indulgent. At Armani/Hashi, explore the heart of Japan with exquisite ingredients and flavours, while Armani/Amal brings the tantalising taste of India to your celebrations.

3 2

THE RITZ-CARLTON ABU DHABI, GRAND CANAL

You’re invited to experience sophistication with a Christmas dinner at The Forge, offering a menu of premium cuts complemented by perfect grapes. Li Jiang, with the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque as a backdrop, presents a well-crafted five-course menu accompanied by melodious tunes from a resident DJ. Mijana takes you on an Arabian culinary journey, complete with live oud music, while Giornotte offers a classic festive menu featuring international selections and Christmas favorites.

1

HIGH TEA AT ATMOSPHERE, BURJ KHALIFA

A journey to elegance and sophistication awaits at the pinnacle of the world, where (literal) high tea is elevated to an art form. Here, the Burj Khalifa's 122nd floor houses an enchanting experience with breathtaking city views for those with a head for heights. You’re invited to partake in an exquisite selection of traditional sandwiches featuring blue fin tartare, rainbow trout and the regionally-appropriate cucumber and labneh, while main courses such as oyster blade wagyu tantalise the senses. The pastry selection redefines indulgence, with classic black forest and intricately layered cinnamon cake part of the delectable choice. If you seek an extra touch of opulence, don’t miss the sparkling package to add a shimmering edge to your afternoon. Daily, 12 noon to 4:30pm, Dhs399 per person including tea and coffee, Dhs599 per person for the sparkling package.

124 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

2

TOWERS AFTERNOON TEA, DAEFI LOBBY LOUNGE, JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS

Embark on a culinary voyage through the corridors of history in the heart of Jumeirah Emirates Towers. The Towers Afternoon Tea experience unveils an eight-course tiered masterpiece inspired by the iconic skyscrapers, and it's a symphony of flavors - from freshly baked scones to a diverse array of uniquely crafted sandwiches. Lovers of seafood will delight in ingredients such as oakwood-smoked Scottish salmon and Alaskan king crab, while a sweet ending is assured by innovative puds such as salted cannels de Bordeaux and red velvet truffle. As you indulge, let the live piano and cello performances create a sensory masterpiece that transcends time – a treat for the ears as well as the tastebuds. Daily, 2:30pm to 6pm, Dhs199 per person or Dhs320 for two, both prices including tea, coffee and juices.

3

ARABIAN AFTERNOON TEA, SAMOVAR LOUNGE, ONE&ONLY ROYAL MIRAGE

For a lesson in old Arabian elegance, look no further than Samovar Lounge, where freshly-picked mint leaves and honey from the in-house apiary are paired with bahgrir, sweet Moroccan-style pancakes, that give a Middle Eastern twist to the concept of afternoon tea. For fans of the classic cream tea a more traditional option is available too, all enjoyed while overlooking palm-lined gardens, fountains, and pools. Retro finger sandwiches, Devonshire clotted cream and strawberry jam, biscuits, cakes and pastries complete the picture of perfection. With both options sure to be something special, it might be time for tea for two – twice. Daily, 3pm to 6pm, Dhs165 per person or Dhs175 per person for the premium package including bubbles

3

ADDRESS GRAND CREEK HARBOUR

Nestled along the serene waters of the Creek, the Address Grand Creek Harbour welcomes you to embrace the gentle autumn weather in Dubai. The Enchanting Fall Escape offers savings on room rates and an array of chic dining venues. As part of your stay, indulge in the Afternoon Tea at The Patisserie, where the essence of the season unfolds in a symphony of flavours. Discover the Cheese & Cheers event every Tuesday, a treat for all connoisseurs. And on Sparkling Thursdays, indulge in oysters and bubbles, a perfect pairing for the festive season.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

125

Lifestyle: Spa JOLA CHUDY

TIME TO… INDULGE

Serenity has its own Address, at the Fountain Views Spa

Blissed-out fitness This autumn there are several interesting offers up to lend your spa treatment a sense of timely relevance: with the 30X30 Dubai Fitness Challenge underway as we went to press, the property was offering a three-phase spa treatment: a 30-minute salt scrub to revitalise the lymphatic system and enhance tissue metabolism, followed by a full-body purification wrap and then 30 minutes of soft massage to elevate the senses, boosting your fitness for this special event.

W

National Day

Dive in

Celebrating the essence of the UAE National Day, the spa has cre-

If you want to make a day of it, there’s also the opportunity to

ated a bespoke treatment that encapsulates the spirit of the union.

escape to the rooftop infinity pool; Dhs200 per person includes

Immerse yourself in the exclusive 30-minute Bathing Hammam

Dhs150 off your food and beverage order during the week. For a

hile Dubai’s autumn finery may be a little sub-

designed interiors, complemented by soothing melodies and an

Ritual, artfully infused with the essence of sandalwood, an hom-

relaxed and informal meal, delight your palate with afternoon tea

tler than the glorious hues of colder climates,

ambiance of understated elegance have conspired to create a haven

age to the rich traditions of the region. As the therapeutic quali-

full of mouthwatering bites, served daily between 3pm and 7pm.

the change in season is still felt here in our urban

of tranquility, where every element is meticulously curated to pro-

ties of sandalwood envelop you, a sense of tranquility and cultural

Meanwhile, The Restaurant serves up sophisticated international

desert metropolis. With winter travel on the

vide an unparalleled sensory experience.

reverence harmoniously intertwine, transporting you to a state

dishes in a refined and stylish setting, and there’s also a weekend

horizon and what feels like the entire city in a frenetic fall fast-

Whether you seek respite from the bustle of city life, a moment

of complete relaxation and spiritual awakening. Continuing this

Twilight Brunch, boasting bites such as oysters, prawns and lob-

forward, reclaiming a sense of inner calm and peace feels espe-

of self-care and introspection, or an opportunity to immerse your-

immersive experience, a 60-minute personalised relaxing massage

ster from the buffet, saj manakish and lamb ouzi from the grill,

cially pressing.

self in Dubai’s signature luxury, Address Fountain Views Spa

awaits, meticulously tailored to cater to your every need. Whether

and desserts including Madagascan vanilla mille feuille, black sea

promises an escape like no other.

you seek to alleviate muscular tension, invigorate your senses or

salt caramel éclair and much more. Every discerning diner will be spoilt for choice.

Make a date and carve out some precious time for yourself. The Address Fountain Views is a spot where understated sophistica-

Standing majestically in the heart of Dubai, the hotel is nestled

simply surrender to a state of profound serenity, the skilled hands

tion and thoughtful touches of luxury blend seamlessly to create

inside a gleaming architectural marvel that offers a perfect van-

of expert therapists will guide you towards a state of blissful equi-

an unforgettable experience.

tage point towards the Burj Khalifa and surrounding cityscape.

librium. Surrender to the gentle strokes and the rhythmic flow of

Dubai’s towering skyline and dynamic pace melts away as you

the massage, allowing the therapeutic properties of the premium

To book contact +971 4 245 8866 or email spa.adfvh@addresshotels.com;

embark on a journey of rejuvenation.

oils to soothe your body and nurture your soul.

dineatfountainviews@addresshotels.com

The spa is not just a destination; it is a sanctuary that encapsulates the art of indulgence and holistic wellbeing. Impeccably

126 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

127

Lifestyle: Gifting RACHEL SILVESTRI

WINTER WONDERS 1

It’s time to get into the spirit — brighten your season with these luxe design touches, kitchen gadgets and precious trinkets.

ASPREY’S FESTIVE GIFT SELECTION

Can’t find a gift for the person who has everything? If there’s nothing in Asprey’s seasonal selection then we’re at a loss too, because there really is something for every taste in this cool, kitsch and perfectly thought-out range of high-end tchotchkes.

Charms inspired by the British countryside rub shoulders with imperial jade in a stunning lavender, while hand-blown decanters and a rocket cocktail shaker will make an impression on any interior design fanatic.

Shooting star cufflinks add a touch of festive class to any outfit, and luxe leather goods round out the range. A very merry Christmas?

It will be, with these items under your tree. www.asprey.com

3

CRATE & BARREL

Spruce up your kitchen with some red-hot equipment that’ll please speed freaks and home cooks alike. Crate & Barrel’s got you covered with a Ferrari-branded pizza oven, a ruby-red KitchenAid stand mixer and a cast iron fondue set being all you need to bolster your entertainment creds. All set off with some festive ceramics, you’ll be ready for the party season — time to send out the invites. www.crateandbarrel.com

2

MARKS & SPENCER GETS COSY

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire… In Dubai? Perhaps not, but you can certainly evoke that Christmas feeling with Marks & Spencer’s selection of classic Yuletide touches. From nutcrackers and wreaths to snow globes and tartan placemats, it’ll be a cosy Christmas whether Santa comes down the chimney or makes his way in through the A/C unit. www.marksandspencer.com .

128 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

129

Lifestyle: Gifting

Lifestyle: Interiors JOLA CHUDY

Eminently suitable Poltrona Frau debuts collaboration with Ozwald Boateng at Downtown Design

P

5

TIFFANY & CO. X RIMOWA

‘Tis the season to collaborate, and this partnership between two luxury brands at the top of their respective games has set our desire on fire. These one-of-a-kind luggage creations use both brands’ signature motifs to attention-grabbing effect, with a jewellery case, a cabin suitcase and a jewellery ‘personal’ in vivid Tiffany Blue forming an enviable collection perfect for the sparkle lover in your life. Does your someone special wait for a little blue bag under the tree at Christmas? Then perhaps this year you should go for the big silver suitcase instead — brownie points guaranteed. www.rimowa.com

130 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

oltrona Frau, renowned as a global purveyor of Italian

ment to the harmonious blend of craftsmanship, sartorial finesse,

excellence, unveiled its exclusive capsule interiors collec-

and product innovation.

tion in collaboration with acclaimed menswear designer

The hand-embossed leather embellishing the Chester sofas is a

Ozwald Boateng during the 10th edition of Downtown

tribute to the traditional Kente cloths, renowned for their vibrant

Design. This Middle East debut of the ‘Culture and Craft’ exhibi-

and intricately woven fabrics often worn during ceremonial occa-

tion amalgamates the vibrancy of African aesthetics with the

sions. Each Chester sofa is meticulously handcrafted at Poltrona

finesse of British tailoring and Italian artisanship, resulting in a

Frau’s atelier in Tolentino, mirroring the painstaking attention

distinctive ensemble for connoisseurs of sophisticated living.

to detail characteristic of Boateng’s bespoke Savile Row suits. The

The pioneering alliance between Poltrona Frau, a vanguard in

signature Boateng pattern takes centre stage across the entire col-

the world of furniture, and Boateng, an esteemed figure from Sav-

lection, paying homage to the British designer’s Ghanaian heri-

ile Row, was initially unveiled at London Design Week 2023. This

tage. Each colour, motif and design is thoughtfully curated to con-

milestone marks Boateng’s first venture into the realm of interior

vey a compelling narrative of sustainability and diversity.

design, adding another dimension to his profound impact on men’s fashion over the span of three decades.

In Ozwald Boateng’s own words: “I am thrilled to unveil my collaboration with Poltrona Frau at Downtown Design, a collection

The new collection features the ‘Chester’ sofa, an original 1912

that reflects my exploration of African patterns and Poltrona Frau’s

design conceived by the founder of Poltrona Frau, drawing inspira-

legacy of Italian design excellence. From the outset, a shared ethos

tion from the grandeur of Edwardian Chesterfields. Also featured

of craftsmanship, precision and meticulous attention to detail has

is the ‘Vanity Fair’ chair from 1984, both adorned with distinctive

defined our partnership. The process of creating furniture paral-

patterns curated by the creative genius Boateng. Complementing

lels my approach to tailoring, emphasising material choice and

the furniture ensemble are a range of lifestyle accessories, textiles

development. For me, this partnership represents a celebration of

and wallpapers adorned with the evocative Kente motif, along

tradition and the discovery of a fresh creative language rooted in

with exquisitely crafted African-inspired scented candles. A rein-

that tradition. I hope that design aficionados in the region will

terpretation of the classic African Mancala game serves as a testa-

embrace our shared vision.”

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

131

Zoom: Geneva Watch Days RACHEL SILVESTRI

The industry came out to play at Geneva’s leisurely summer salon

L

ong, lazy days on the banks of Lake Geneva were just

heavyweights Jean-Claude Biver, Jean-Christophe Babin,

the way to ease back into business after summer for

Georges Kern and Maximilian BÜsser, and GMT’s own Brice

the giants of the watch industry. The fourth instal-

Lechevalier in attendance. The salon ran until 2 September,

ment of Geneva Watch Days, the annual watch-

allowing the general public and watchmaking specialists

making salon founded in 2020, was the biggest yet, with 40

alike a glimpse at the sensational wares on display. Grouped

participating brands and numerous new releases to be found

by theme, free guided tours each afternoon provided casual

at the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc pavilion and in boutiques and

observers an insight into this sometimes intimidating world,

venues throughout the city. The festivities kicked off on 29

while special events and a party atmosphere ensured that

August with a powerful panel featuring watch industry

memories of this end-of-summer event will last a lifetime.

132 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

133

THE WORLDTEMPUS APP Free Access to the World of Watchmaking Articles from our experts Exclusive videos Audio articles (for club members) GMT digital magazine (for club members)

It is also possible to customize the app to follow your favourite brands, or listen to the weekly news round-up in 60 seconds.

134 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

This app is developed by GMT Publishing exclusively for GMT and WorldTempus readers.

DOWNLOAD NOW

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

135

Zoom: Lifestyle RACHEL SILVESTRI

The stars shone in NYC for Breitling’s new Navitimer

C

harlize

Theron,

Misty

Copeland

and

Giannis Antetokounmpo were just a few of the stars who turned out for a sultry September evening at the Classic Car Club

Manhattan in New York City to celebrate the release of Breitling’s newest Navitimer collection. As well as launching two dainty 36mm and 32mm lines, the event also saw A-Lister Theron’s debut in Breitling’s campaign film Navitimer – For the Journey. It follows Theron’s path from rural South Africa to the bright lights of Hollywood in a series of personal and heart-

felt interviews.

“My journey has always been about being up for any challenge,” says Theron. “I travelled from South Africa to Los Angeles when I was quite young, and both that physical journey and the journey of being open-minded and ready for new experiences has served me well personally and professionally.”

Modern ballet performances from the American Ballet Theater Studio Company set the cultured tone, while guests mingled long into the night.

“We are delighted to welcome Charlize, Misty, and other members of the Breitling Navitimer Squad to help us celebrate the two new lines in our flagship collection,” said Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “They have generously contributed to the Navitimer journey by sharing their stories with us. What began in 1952 as a tool for pilots has gone on to mean something profound to every single person who has had this timepiece along on their personal journey.”

136 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

137

Zoom: Lifestyle RACHEL SILVESTRI

It’s all kicking off as Hublot launches its new Classic Fusion Chronograph Premier League

I

t wasn’t just any old Arsenal v Manchester City face-off, when on the 8 and 9 October Hublot assembled its numerous ambassadors for a two-day celebration of its newest achievement — the introduction of the Classic Fusion Chronography Premier League. Taking over from the Big Bang e, which was the first smart watch to

be created for the world-famous league, this new timepiece is limited to just 100 pieces — an exciting point reflected in the stars who came out to check it out.

“We were the first to give the Premier League its own smart watch, and now we’re the first to give it its very first Swiss Made mechanical chronograph!” commented Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe at the launch. “It’s strongly symbolic, combining the talent of a team and the precision of a chronograph: mechanical excellence, total cohesion and perfect timing.”

It was certainly perfect timing for Arsenal’s Gabriel Martinelli, who scored at 86 min-

utes to clinch a 1-0 victory over Manchester City. And for fans of the beautiful game, perhaps now is the perfect time to get a slice of purple Hublot goodness on your wrist too.

138 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

139

Zoom: Lifestyle RACHEL SILVESTRI

Glam by the ocean at the TFWA World Exhibition & Conference in Cannes GMT GCC’s very own Deremi Ajidahun met with the world’s duty free and travel industry top brass at the famed Palais des Festivals et des Congrès in glamorous Cannes. As the only exhibition for those marketing to international travellers, TFWA — which ran from 1-5 October — was a five-day riot of the industry’s most exciting brands. With the blue skies and sultry evenings of the South of France’s coast the ideal setting for chilled-out meet and greets, it was the perfect time to be beside the seaside for travel experts from all over the globe.

140 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

141

142 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

143

Headliner YANNICK NARDIN

1. Making history A rising star in French mountaineering, Charles Dubouloz is blazing new trails in the history of the sport with each of his feats. In January 2022, the mountain guide achieved a first that defied belief with a solo winter ascent of the ‘Rolling Stones’ route on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc Massif. This crazy six-day expedition at -20°C earned him such recognition that he has since devoted himself to his passion.

3. Larger than life passion Why such an irresistible passion for the mountains? This vast territory offers a field of expression “commensurate with my boundless energy”, explains the young 30-something from Annecy. A reality that explains his (not so) surprising sense of kinship with another member of the Richard Mille family, freediver Arnaud Jerald, with whom he feels “vertically aligned, each at the opposite end of the spectrum, in osmosis with the elements in their purest state”.

Three fun facts about

Charles Dubouloz Richard Mille’s ambassador and first mountaineer

2. Fear is his driving force As he freely admits: “The day I stop being scared is the day I stop climbing!”, because it is adrenalin that connects him intensely to the present. A virtuoso of the peaks, Charles Dubouloz climbs with his guts, defying the steepest and most dangerous faces. In his quest to excel, he aims to take on new summits in Pakistan, as well as the ‘Alps trilogy’ in France. The RM 67-02 Extra-Thin Automatic on his wrist will keep track of these intense moments, a watch born of extreme watchmaking that is all about creativity and high performance — just like its wearer!

A VOYAGE TO REMEMBER A journey of endless possibilities

BOATSHOWDUBAI.COM

144 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

145

146 GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES