GMT GCC - N2 - WATCHES & WONDERS, 2023.

New models

Bold trends for a fresh spring look

Portfolio

Jaquet Droz vs The Rolling Stones Eco-friendly timepieces

Interviews

Atlantis The Royal’s regal bearing The Arts Club Dubai’s personal touch

Specials

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023 Van Cleef & Arpels weaves its magic WatchBox brings the buzz to Dubai KF Masterpieces takes on the desert

Breitling

Premier B01 is bringing back the ’40s for 2023 GMT GCC NO 2 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES GCC EDITION I Q2 2023 I ENGLISH I USD 12.–

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Your KF doesn’t exist yet.

Let’s create it together.

SWISS CUSTOM-MADE

my-KF.swiss

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SCAN TO SEE THE BREITLING FOUNDERS IN ACTION

Léon Breitling 1860-1914

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HERITAGE REVIVED Presented by

willy Breitling

gaston Breitling

1913-1979

1884-1927

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THE WORLDTEMPUS APP Free Access to the World of Watchmaking Articles from our experts Exclusive videos Audio articles (for club members) GMT digital magazine (for club members)

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Editor portrait by @elsheeko

Editorial Q2 2023

GMT GCC N° 2 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES GCC EDITION Q2 2023 I ENGLISH USD12.–

Hello!

New models

Bold trends for a fresh spring look

Portfolio

Jaquet Droz vs The Rolling Stones Eco-friendly timepieces

Interviews

Atlantis The Royal’s regal bearing The Arts Club Dubai’s personal touch

Specials

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023 Van Cleef & Arpels weaves its magic WatchBox brings the buzz to Dubai KF Masterpieces takes on the desert

Breitling

Premier B01 is bringing back the ’40s for 2023

W

e’re so thrilled and happy to

munities, collectors and talented voices have ce-

welcome the watch-loving com-

mented the significance of the GCC within the watch-

munity of the Middle East to

making world. Thanks to their endless passion and

GMT GCC and to share some of

enthusiasm, and the enduring commitment of our

the passion, spirit and soul that

region’s watch retailers, the ties between fine watch-

ticks and beats between each page, picture and word.

making and the Middle East are today stronger than

Of course, some of you already know some of us.

ever before.

GMT GCC’s publisher Deremi Ajidahun is a well-

Dubai Watch Week, Doha Jewellery & Watches Ex-

known, trail-blazing advocate of horology across

hibition and LVMH Watch Week are just a few that

Africa and the Middle East. He turns his passions into

spring to mind when it comes to some of the ways we

businesses, and his clients become his friends.

are seeing the watch world’s leading lights increasin-

GMT GCC NO 2 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES GCC EDITION I Q2 2023 I ENGLISH I USD 12.–

Cover and cover story shoot

by Igor Laski

When Deremi called me out of the blue to ask if I

gly present here on our shores.

might be interested in leading the editorial direction

With a post-Covid optimism returning to the watch

on the publication that you hold in your hands, my

industry, and an absolutely indisputable buzz of

heart skipped a beat. Having pressed a much-needed

anticipation surrounding the Watches and Wonders

pause on a decades-long career as an Editor-in-Chief

Geneva fair at which this publication is proudly dis-

to focus on my own business and a broadly-incompa-

played, it’s safe to say that the watch community is a

tible-with-office-life passion for endurance sports and

truly global one.

ultra-running, I wasn’t expecting the call.

At the heart of this publication is a genuine and

Speaking with Deremi, and with Rachel Silvestri,

heartfelt desire to be a conduit for the region’s com-

the title’s incomparably talented, globetrotting Ma-

munities too: the watch clubs, groups and gatherings

naging Editor whose prose and passion for watchma-

that are the lifeblood of the industry here. I’ve writ-

king imbues these pages with magic, it was nothing

ten about watches for most of my adult life — as an

less than a coup de foudre to be reunited with this fasci-

amateur endurance-athlete, my appreciation for the

nating, dynamic and wonderful global community as

significance of time straddles a few interpretations,

the Editor-in-Chief of GMT GCC.

and my conviction of the power of community is

In our region — UAE, Kuwait, Bahrain, Qatar and

unshakeable. I’m looking forward to connecting with

Saudi Arabia — thriving and influential watch com-

you and yours — and I know our GMT GCC team is, too.

JOLA CHUDY I Editor-in-Chief @jolaruns jola@gmtgcc.com

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Contributors Drawing talent from an international pool of professionals, the following specialist watch industry writers and photographers have made expert contributions to this edition of GMT GCC.

BRICE LECHEVALIER

An entrepreneur at heart, the founder of GMT magazine and Editor-in-Chief of the Swiss and international editions is always brimming with new ideas. He nurtures an unbridled passion for watchmaking that he conveys to readers through his insightful articles.

CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

MARIE DE PIMODAN

When she’s not out in the field meeting industry players, visiting a manufacture or discovering a new product, you’ll find this expert watch journalist at GMT Publishing, writing an article for the magazine or for WorldTempus.

This experienced watchmaker knows the workings of the watch industry inside out. For GMT, he writes the Test Bench section. The principle? Wear a watch for a week and analyze it from every angle so as to deliver a precise technical and aesthetic assessment.

JOLA CHUDY

Jola Chudy is Editor-in-Chief of GMT GCC as well as an ultrarunner, sports brand ambassador and founder of her own communications agency. With a special place in her heart reserved for fine watchmaking, Jola is a talented storyteller who is equally at ease surrounded by the world’s most beautiful watches as she is crossing inhospitable desert dunes on foot. She is thrilled to return to an abiding first love courtesy of this regional edition of GMT.

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RACHEL SILVESTRI

A writer and editor whose career has taken her to every continent on the planet — as well as inside some of Swiss watchmaking’s most sacred spaces — Rachel is delighted to take up the reins as Managing Editor of GMT GCC. She has a deep-seated passion for haute horlogerie and fine jewellery that she can’t wait to bring to GMT’s discerning readers.

DENIS HAYOUN

Grasping what makes a watch beautiful and highlighting its finest assets: therein lies the talent of this Geneva-based photographer to whom we owe this edition’s sustainable watches photo shoot.

OLIVIER MÜLLER

Olivier Müller is a professional luxury journalist and consultant. He divides his time between Geneva and Paris, covering horology-related topics for a dozen or so magazines and specialist websites in Europe. He is also a regular speaker at various events, and author of several reference books.

DAVID CHOKRON

A specialized watch journalist based in Paris, David still finds himself amazed and blown away by the power, poetry and ingenuity of watchmaking. He nonetheless favours a reasonable and pragmatic approach by focusing on the technical quality and ergonomics of the watches he reveals in his articles.

IGOR LASKI

Bringing the business knowledge from his formative years in finance to his current creative work, this Swiss-based photographer took time out from launching his new company Media Luxury Agency to shoot this issue’s stunning Breitling cover story — and we’re so glad that he did.

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Contents Q2 2023 GMTGCC gmtgcc

60 7 EDITORIAL 8 CONTRIBUTORS 14 COVER STORY Breitling’s Premier B10 takes off

33 NEWS

SPECIALS

ART & HISTORY

40 WATCHES AND WONDERS GENEVA 2023

54 IN THE WORKSHOP OF… CARTIER

48 DINA AL TAYEB

60 ICON: TAG HEUER CARRERA

56 HUBLOT LOVES FOOTBALL

72 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS IN SAUDI ARABIA

62 THE ARTS CLUB DUBAI 80 ATLANTIS THE ROYAL

98 WATCHBOX EXHIBITION 131 GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE GENÈVE

115 DEREMI AJIDAHUN

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LIFESTYLE

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53 BEST OF INSTAGRAM 86 PORTFOLIO: JAQUET DROZ X THE ROLLING STONES 120 PHOTO SHOOT: THE DANCE OF MATERIALS 138 ZOOM EVENTS 160 JET SET 162 HEADLINER

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TECH INSIGHTS 28 KF MASTERPIECES 46 CHIMING MOVEMENTS 76 TEST BENCH

46 94

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NEW RELEASES 68 VACHERON CONSTANTIN 94 BELL & ROSS 104 SPRING WATCH TRENDS

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128 RESERVOIR

28 Imprint Magazine GMT GCC no 2 The magazine of the 12th Art, reflects the spirit of haute horlogerie since the year 2000. GCC Edition from 2022. Printed edition: 15’000 copies in English Publisher: Deremi Ajidahun daa@gmtgcc.com Administration & Edition : HNZ Group UAE Directors : Deremi Ajidahun & Bi Feuser-Ajidahun Marketing, Distribution & Sales Manager : Aisha Jibrin aisha@gmtgcc. com Tel: +971 52 439 5020 Layout : ODA Studio Print : Zabeel Dubai

© Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT GCC is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

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A bridge to the GCC

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Cover story OLIVIER MULLER & JOLA CHUDY

Breitling Premier Chronograph, 42mm steel case, sapphire crystal caseback, Manufacture Breitling 01 movement, COSC-certified, 70h power reserve.

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Two new interpretations of the Breitling Premier powered by Calibre B01, in salmon pink or midnight blue dial, are teamed with an alligator strap secured by a folding clasp. These new Breitling Premier watches are all COSC-certified chronometers.

Hope springs eternal It’s about time that the Breitling Premier B01 took its turn to step into the limelight.

H

ope is a powerful force. I mean, without it, we’re pretty much screwed. If you want to destroy someone, take away their hope, right? We all need that sliver of light at the end of the tun-

nel to keep on keepin’ on.

Hope buoyed the artists, designers and entrepre-

neurs whose talents had been diverted to fortifying the ephemera of war: the design of aircraft instruments and tool watches intended to help support the efforts of military men in active and often deadly service formed an unlikely foundation of hope. An optimistic anticipation for accessories whose chance to delight and enliven would eventually come.

And of course it did. It came in the form of the first Premier collection, an exceptionally elegant and beautifully designed family of timepieces that shone a light on the ability of human beings to create beautiful, mechanically wonderful objects and to turn a back on dark, wartainted years.

Willy Breitling understood the power of hope. Known for his impeccable sense of style, Breitling was quick to identify the public’s longing for sophisticated and glamorous products. Although already producing chronographs, Breitling went above and beyond by introducing the Premier collection, a unique range of watches designed specifically for a discerning and fashionable audience. As the curtain fell on years of destruction, Breitling’s founders were eager to anticipate a time when optimism, hope and confidence would return.

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Breitling Premier 42mm, with a combination of case and seven-link bracelet — a first for the collection.

Hope is best when it is not dashed, and better still when it endures and flourishes. I mean, we can’t really argue with that, right?

After spending some time in the shadow of the

Here at the GMT GCC team, we’ve been feeling

iconic Navitimer, which is nearly 10 years its

exceptionally hopeful. Fresh from our triumphant

junior, the Premier has gradually emerged

first edition that was launched in tandem with the

back into the limelight. Introduced in 1943,

greatest global event our region has ever hosted,

this Breitling timepiece has earned the title

football fever has segued into something else — a

of the most sought-after Breitling chrono-

quiet conviction that this is the right place, and we

graph in the brand’s illustrious 80-year

are in the right time.

history, thanks to its consistent per-

It is therefore particularly satisfying that the

formance. Today, with the introduc-

watch collection we celebrate on our front cover and

tion of seven new models (five with

within these pages is a collection that was born in a

steel cases and two with 18 carat red

time when hope was so vitally important.

gold cases), all equipped with the

Today, optimism is flourishing again. We’ve — for

Breitling Manufacture Calibre B01, the

the most part — put the pandemic years behind us.

Premier has reached an unprecedented

Confidence has returned. Things are getting better.

milestone in its journey.

Breitling Premier ref. 777 dating from 1945, equipped with Venus Calibre 178, in a 37.4mm 18 carat gold case.

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Premier moment

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BREITLING, KING OF THE CHRONOGRAPH Few companies have shown such consistency throughout their history. Breitling was born in 1884

A textbook case

as a chronometry specialist and remains so in 2023.

The Premier model serves as a perfect illustration of this evolu-

Did Léon Breitling foresee such longevity for the

tion. Conceived precisely 80 years ago, in 1943, the chronograph

firm that still bears his name? Without attributing

had already been around for some time. However, a young Willy

any apocryphal intentions to this founding father,

Breitling, who was not yet 30 years old at the time, recognised

there is no doubt that the extraordinary durability

the need for this practical horological device to evolve into a more

of the family management enabled his vision to live

refined and sophisticated watchmaking product.

on: from 1884 to almost 1980 — almost a century —

He understood that pilots, drivers and athletes who were outfit-

only three generations of Breitling succeeded one

ted by Breitling also desired to sport their own chronograph wrist-

another in establishing their brand at the peak of

watch outside their professional settings. Thus, he aimed to com-

sports chronograph expertise.

bine practicality with elegance, famously declaring: “When a man wears his watch, it is the indisputable mark of impeccable taste.”

The Premier was born out of this hopeful vision.

What else did pre-war chronographs require to propel them into this new era? Technically, not much. The first pusher was the usual one and Breitling had already invented the second zero-resetting pusher, which became a standard fixture. The split-seconds function had long since been integrated thanks to Breitling’s close ties with the famous movement manufacturer Venus.

Aesthetically, however, Premier represented a small revolution for the chronograph, as the case morphed from steel to solid gold — a bold move for a sporty complication model. The dial was the object of particular care, featuring new hour markers and more

Breitling Premier in a 42mm steel case housing a B01 movement and appearing in an all-black livery.

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Breitling Premier 42mm, steel case, with vintage salmon pink dial and counters.

B01, the first 100 per B01: THE FIRST 100 PER CENT Calibre cent in-house movement IN-HOUSE CALIBRE developed by Breitling in 2009,

The turn of the millennium was more than

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elaborate dial printing. The level of finishing had

merely symbolic for Breitling: in 2001, the

been taken a step further, without compromising on

brand became a fully-fledged Manufacture.

legibility. Finally, the Premier came in a case mea-

A brand-new building was built in the heart

suring as much as 38mm in diameter — this now

of the ultimate watchmaking city, La Chaux-

standard size was deeply unconventional for an era

de-Fonds. Its unusual name — Breitling Chro-

which was all about 34mm models.

nométrie — reflects the quest for precision

Endowed with this DNA, the Premier has found

that still drives the brand. Ultra-modern and

its way through the decades — variously equipped

equipped with state-of-the-art design, pro-

with a split seconds mechanism (Duograph) or a

duction, assembly and testing instruments,

complete calendar (Datora) — until its big comeback

it enabled Breitling to have its entire pro-

in 2018, subsequently taking onboard Calibre B09 in

duction certified by the COSC (Official Swiss

2021 and then today’s must-have Calibre B01, in new

Chronometer Testing Institute) — an unprec-

gold or steel versions.

edented achievement.

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offers a 70h power reserve and is chronometer-certified by the COSC. Its latest iteration powers the Premier collection and features a slimmer profile thanks to a more compact oscillating weight.

Breitling’s Chronométrie buildings were inaugurated in La Chaux-deFonds in 2001

The Premier ‘Heritage Collection’ was unveiled in 2021 with, from left to right, a bicompax chronograph, split seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar.

However, the most important thing that happened

an exclusive index regulating system enabling the watch

in 2009 was the unveiling of Breitling’s first 100 per

to be quickly customised to its wearer. The intelligent

cent in-house calibre, simply named B01. While it was

architecture of the B01 also simplifies its maintenance.

of course a chronograph movement, its performance

The latest iteration of Calibre B01 features a slimmer

far surpassed the standards of the time. Endowed with

profile and a more compact oscillating weight, visible

a column wheel, a vertical clutch and a power reserve

through the sapphire caseback of the new Premier col-

of more than 70 hours ensuring enhanced regularity of

lection. The movement remains guaranteed for five years

rate, this new calibre was designed to offer maximum

and offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. In

functionality and safety. Breitling also designed it to be

keeping with Willy Breitling’s desire to combine func-

easy to manufacture and use, notably with a patented

tionality with elegance, the Premier is water-resistant

self-centring device for the zero-resetting hammers and

to 100m (10 bar).

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A first variation in 18 carat red gold with brown alligator leather strap.

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The first Breitling Premier B01 in an 18 carat red gold case, paired with a seven-link red gold bracelet.

A GOLDEN DOUBLE Following its success with a silver-tone dial, the Premier B01 returns with its 18 carat red gold case in two new interpretations. They share the same original cream-coloured dial, recalling the first iterations of the timepiece in the 1940s.

The hours and minutes hands are, as previously, coated with luminescent material to ensure their legibility in all circumstances. To assert its sporty character, the tip of the seconds hand is red, in line with the associated ‘Tachymeter’ scale appearing between 12 and one o’clock.

While the luminescent hour markers have been replaced by elegant, applied gold-plated counterparts, the font is exactly the same as on the original Premier models. The counters are still sunburst and the inner bezel ring bears a double scale typical of the Premier (tachymeter at the top, seconds below).

In tune with the times, the timepiece features a date window at six o’clock, surrounded by a gold-toned decorative rim.

This new reference is teamed with a brown leather strap or a particularly supple and comfortable sevenlink red gold bracelet, both tightly secured by a gold folding clasp.

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A new all-blue (dial and counters) variation, framed by a 42mm steel case.

FIVE-POWER STEEL The Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is currently avail-

embellished with Côtes de Genève engraving. Addi-

able in a few rare versions with steel cases that set

tionally, the timepieces share a 100 per cent mono-

the stage for its revival: bottle green dial with grey

chrome design, with the dial and counters display-

counters, blue with black counters, panda and

ing the same colour.

reverse panda, as well as a mouse grey.

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Some dial shades featuring a resolutely vintage

Breitling has expanded its collection with an

vibe will immediately delight fans of early Pre-

impressive five new references, providing custom-

mier models. Such will be the case for the cream-

ers with a vast array of options. Each model can be

coloured dial, similar to the version with a red gold

paired with either an alligator strap or a seven-link

case, but with a steel case giving it a new gleam.

steel bracelet, both featuring a double- or triple-

Likewise for the salmon pink dial, one of this year’s

blade folding clasp. All five models boast a sapphire

stellar colours appreciated for its retro touch that

crystal caseback, which enables the wearer to mar-

remains relatively rare on the watchmaking scene.

vel at the intricacies of the Caliber B01 movement

For devotees of contemporary watches, Breitling

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Trio of Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon models, unveiled in 2022.

Left: Premier B01 Chronograph 42, panda version released in 2018.

Right: One of the first chronographs with an independent pusher at two o’clock, from around 1915, created by Gaston Breitling.

Watch specifications Calibre: Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01 Diameter: 42 millimetres Material: Stainless steel

is unveiling a full black version within the Premier collection.

Worn on a leather strap in the same colour, the model exudes a

Water resistance: Up to 10 bar (100 meters)

sophisticated and powerful aesthetic evoking the racing spirit of

Case back: Screwed steel, sapphire crystal

the first chronographs developed by Breitling almost 140 years ago.

Dial/Hands: Black, blue, salmon, green

Finally, for those who prefer a bolder, more avant-garde aes-

or cream with tone-on-tone chronograph

thetic, Breitling has developed two navy blue and sparkling green

counters, Super-LumiNova luminescent hour

variations of which every subtle nuance plays across the surface

and minute hand Strap: Black, gold-brown or brown alligator leather strap with a folding buckle (22/18 mm) or stainless steel seven-row bracelet with a butterfly clasp

of a sunburst dial. The idea of a sunburst, reflecting rays of sunlight, is a particularly satisfying metaphor for the concept of hope.

Eighty years on, we’re confident that Breitling’s founders, whose work straddled such wildly divergent eras, would agree, that things turned out ok in the end.

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Breitling presents the Premier B01 Chronograph 42mm in variations that include a blue or black dial with brown alligator leather strap. There is also a version with a green dial, with a stainless steel seven-row bracelet.

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The display features hours, minutes and seconds as well as the date displayed at six o’ clock.

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Each dial is protected by a cambered sapphire glass that is glareproofed on both sides.

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Custom-made masterpieces RACHEL SILVESTRI

Changing faces KF Masterpieces is on a mission to create the watch that’s a perfect reflection of you.

W

hat would be the dream timepiece for most watch lovers? The classic form of a sought-after Genta-designed Nautilus, Royal Oak or Ingenieur? The sparkle of a

piece of Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier or Piaget haute joaillerie?

Or perhaps the brand recogisability of layperson’s favourites Rolex and Omega?

We all have our reasons for lusting after certain brands or models over others, but one thing is certain — given the chance, our fantasy would be to have something bespoke, custom built to our every whim and preference.

Sound like a hopless dream? Not for KF Masterpieces.

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Made to measure For those with a passion for fine watchmaking, the

desire and lust, but does such the perfect watch really

secrets of the biggest brands are quite easily uncovered

exist? According to KF Masterpieces it does, with cus-

early in one’s journey. But finding a timepiece that ticks

tomisation at the core of its business.

every personal box can take some more time. And for some, it becomes a lifelong quest.

“Such an approach is not only possible at KF Masterpieces, but it represents the very philosophy of the

Whether it’s complication preference, colour scheme,

brand,” says Elmar van Dijk, CEO of KF Masterpieces.

materials, size or, even more personally, your inter-

“It’s a watchmaking house capable of shaping itself

ests, dreams and personality, the number of variables

according to the imagination of its customers.”

involved in horology means it can be difficult to get all those stars to align.

This approach was dreamed up by master watchmaker Karsten Frässdorf, whose bold idea for

For the A-Listers of this world, it

the future of horology turned the pro-

may be easier to put your stamp on a

cess of design and conception on its

timepiece — Rafael Nadal even got his

head. Putting the client at the very

name on multiple Richard Mille

starting point of all its creations,

models — but to the watch

his eponymous Maison, KF

lover on the street, any level of

Masterpieces, launched in 2016

personalisation on a manufac-

with the intention of bringing

ture-produced piece runs the

something completely new to

risk of ruining its resale value,

the world of haute horlogerie. The

leaving buyers stuck between a

dream of creating a timepiece

rock and a bad investment.

in the company of a master

There’s much talk of ‘grail watches’ these days, objects of

watchmaker, one that could be customised to your every whim, became reality. 

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Each KF Masterpiece is stamped with the special

els, in 44.5mm and 42mm diameters, ready-made

designation of origin ‘Made in La Chaux-de-Fonds’,

designs are available for viewing both on the Mai-

and is developed and fully assembled in the brand’s

son’s website and by appointment at the La Chaux-

workshops located in this legendary Swiss watch-

de-Fonds atelier. One of the newest dial options is in

making city.

natural meteorite, silvery and crisp, while the rest of

KF is also a singular manufacture, capable of developing any calibre, thus playing the card of freedom

discretion.

and absolute creativity in its innovations. Taking

So is this the watch of your dreams, or a flight of

clients into the fabulous world of watchmaking by

fantasy? The manufacturer’s multiple proprietary

offering them carte blanche to choose the design and

patents hint at just how serious they are when it

complications of their watch, the brand promises a

comes to the inner workings of their montres, as is

unique individuality since each piece is, by defini-

Karsten Frässdorf’s passion for chronometric perfor-

tion, unique in its design and production methods.

mance and accuracy, right down to the fully anti-

This is the ‘workshop’ spirit proffered by the manu-

magnetic movements. The one-minute tourbillon,

facture’s historic location in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the

manual winding movement, proprietary Spirograph

cradle of watchmaking and a city listed as a UNESCO

balance adjustment and Maltese cross stopwork-

World Heritage Site for its horological heritage.

reduced power reserve all demonstrate the impor-

Need some help getting those creative juices flowing? Building out from the Maison’s EI8HT mod-

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the timepieces’ options remain entirely at the buyer’s

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tance of superior build and accuracy — brains as well as beauty. 

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

One-minute tourbillon

Double-gasket crown ensuring water resistance to 30 metres (3 ATM)

Spirograph® balance, KF patents

Dial with cardinal points Orange hand to point towards the sun

Balance-stop device, KF patent

Crown-based shockabsorbing system, KF patent

Frequency of 18,000 vph

Three-part case (bezel, middle, back)

45 hour power reserve with “Maltese cross” stopwork mechanism (effective 72h.)

45 mm in diameter, 13,9 mm thick

G A ZELLES — 23

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A race to the limits

It’s a wilderness challenge that pushes all-female teams to the edge – and this year KF Masterpieces will be there from start to finish.

It’s a daring concept — a race in which time has

heading equality, a link between Europe and Africa

no meaning, and distance is everything — and in an

and between people and the environment, as official

era when the very concept of womanhood is up for

partner KF will actively support two teams during the

debate, bold in its promotion of all-female teams.

rally itself, and the watches they wear will later be

Since 1990, the Rallye Aïcha des Gazelles du Maroc

available for purchase. Proceeds of their sale will be

has championed this feat of endurance racing, from

given to the ‘Pour Eux, Pour Elles’ team association.

Nice in France to Essaouira in Morocco, and the teams of women who undertake it.

Equipped with nothing more than a compass and a

limits, perseverance, mutual aid and daring, teams

1:100,000 scale map for plotting their routes (phones

can choose to take part in one of five categories: 4x4s

and GPS devices are strictly forbidden), teams must

and trucks, quads and SSVs, crossover and crossover

navigate more than 2,500km off-road through the

hybrids, E-Gazelle cars or E-Gazelle buggies.

stony plains and shifting dunes of the Western

Run under the patronage of HM King Mohammed

Sahara, clocking as few kilometres as possible. The

VI, and the only motorsport event in the world to hold

shortest distance registered in each category wins,

ISO 14001 environmental certification, Rallye Aïcha

with each team in with a chance of collecting prize

des Gazelles really is a one off. No wonder, then, that

money for the charity they have chosen to represent.

KF Masterpieces has chosen to partner with it. After

This year marks the first time KF will join the

all, when it comes to one-offs, KF Masterpieces really

adventure by supporting the famous race. Spear-

32

During the race, which represents a wide range of values and skills such as overcoming personal

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

knows what it’s talking about.

News RACHEL SILVESTRI

EXTRA TIME

H

ere’s an exciting new collaboration

with Purnell already, thanks to the watchmaker ’s

sure to give lovers of the beautiful

ongoing partnership with the Ballon d’Or — of which

game a buzz. Paris Saint- Germain

Messi has won seven. As part of the prize in 2021 he

and Purnell have signed a three -year

received the Purnell Ballon d’Or 2021, based on Pur-

partnership, which will see the mas-

nell’s Escape II model, at 48mm and with a tourbillon

ter Swiss watchmaker become the club’s official ti-

encased in an 18 carat rose gold football.

mekeeper. But what’s even more thrilling is the pro -

The collaboration between these two brands is

mise of regular releases of exclusive, limited- edition

based on their shared focus on excellence, and ma-

timepieces celebrating the new alliance.

king forward-thinking part of their respective DNAs.

“ Who could better represent Paris — one of the

“ With Purnell, Paris Saint- Germain is enriching

world’s greatest cities, a pioneer of style and ele -

its family of partners with an innovative, premium

gance — than Paris Saint- Germain?” said Maurizio

partner that pays great attention to excellence,”

Mazzocchi, CEO of Purnell, at the announcement

said Marc Armstrong, Chief Revenue Officer at Paris

of the partnership. “This emblematic football club

Saint- Germain. “This partnership shows just how at-

perfectly embodies these universal values. I am ho -

tractive Paris Saint- Germain has become to many of

noured that Purnell has been chosen to incarnate

the world’s most highly specialised companies.

these values with the club. I hope that the Paris

Saint- Germain

collections

of

watches, which will be unveiled from March 2023, will arouse intense emotions for Paris SaintGermain fans worldwide.”

All eyes in the soccer world are currently on Paris Saint- Germain, with the club currently home to both world champion Lionel Messi and his FIFA World Cup Final opponent Kylian

“ We are delighted to be working with Purnell and to bring this exciting collaboration to life over the next three years.”

Purnell’s motto — ‘More Future Than Past’ — could certainly apply to Paris Saint- Germain too, with its passion for innovation reflected in Purnell’s signature ‘hyper horology ’. A match made in horolo gical heaven? Time will certainly tell.

Mbappé. The former is certainly familiar

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33

News Spring forward RACHEL SILVESTRI

The very latest goings-on in the watch, jewellery and luxury communities of the Middle East and beyond…

Lace up The long-awaited Dubai Marathon retur-

this great market. We are looking forward to

ned with a vengeance on 12 February, with a

a strategic long-term partnership.”

brand new route and a new timekeeping par-

Case in point? The independent, family-

tner to boot — and the runners couldn’t have

run brand launched a limited edition Dubai

been in better hands than with Swiss master

Marathon watch less than a month after the

watchmaker Norqain. Hot off the heels of

event, the ultimate keepsake for runners.

timekeeping the famed New York City Mara-

The Wild ONE Dubai Marathon watch is

thon in November, Norqain not only brought

limited to just 22 pieces — to

expertise in international competition but a

commemorate the 22nd edi-

fresh attitude too.

tion of the marathon itself —

“We are very excited to partner with Dubai

and boasts a sturdy yet ultra-

Marathon as the Official Timekeeper,” said

light case perfect for active

Norqain’s CEO Ben Küffer. “Together with

lifestyles. You’d better sprint

our strategic retail partner Ahmed Seddiqi &

to the finish if you want one

Sons, we want to underline our commitment

on your wrist.

to the UAE and further develop our brand in

Reaching for the stars JOLA CHUDY

Catherine Rénier CEO, Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrated the opening of the Stel-

invites visitors to reflect on the fundamental question

lar Odyssey exhibition in Dubai. The event was hosted

of what time really is.

by the company’s CEO, Catherine Rénier, and was

Additionally, Jaeger-LeCoultre collaborated with

attended by notable guests including British-Lebanese

world-renowned mixologist Matthias Giroud to create

actress Razane Jammal. The exhibition, which is set to

a special menu of soft cocktails inspired by celestial

tour major world cities throughout 2023, explores the

themes and flavours from Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux.

relationship between astronomical phenomena and

The artists involved in the exhibition are collaborating

the measurement of time. It is staged in a pavilion

with Jaeger-LeCoultre under the company’s Made of

‘floating’ on the waters of the Dubai Fountain with the

Makers programme, an ongoing series of collabora-

Burj Khalifa as its backdrop. The exhibition features a

tions with artists, designers and craftsmen from out-

new art installation, Passengers: Through Time by French

side watchmaking disciplines to explore and extend

visual artist Guillaume Marmin. The art installation

the dialogue that exists between horology and art.

Making waves

34

It’s Dubai life at its most fabulous — and

kayaks, whether buying or browsing, this

fun. So much more than just a trade exhi-

was the place to discover just how different

bition, the Dubai International Boat Show,

life on the ocean wave can be. And with Dive

took place from March 1-5, boosting the life

MENA — the only dedicated show for the UAE

and soul of the city’s party vibe and truly

and GCC diving community — taking place

bringing the heat to Dubai Harbour. From

in parallel with DIBS, it was a chance to take

luxury superyachts to zippy jet skis and

a look at what lies beneath as well.

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THE ART OFBEAUTY Once again filling the halls and romantic alleyways of Madinat Jumeirah with the spirit of creativity from 1-5 March, Art Dubai returned to the city in fabulous style and welcomed back haute jeweller Boghossian’s fantastical wonders for a second year running. Highlighting the dialogue between culture and beauty with the extraordinary creations that result from multicultural exchange, this Swiss Maison with Middle Eastern roots has a rich 150 -year history which inspires many of its astounding pieces.

“Art is at the heart of all that we do, with our remarkable jewellery creations as well as the work we do through our Foundation,” said Albert Boghossian, CEO of Boghossian. “Returning to Art Dubai for the second time was a seamless decision for us, and perfectly repre sentative of the message we wish to share about how art has brought people together throughout the course of history, and continues to do so today.”

The Boghossian Foundation promotes art as a universal language and force for positive change, through various missions and campaigns, from its headquarters in the recently-renovated Art Deco landmark Villa Empain in Brussels.

LOOKING COOL As we wave farewell to the cool and breezy

and choosing everything from colours and lens

Middle Eastern evenings and head into the

shape to components. Cartier’s rimless designs

heat of the summer, there’s no better time for

have become a hallmark of the Maison over the

a retail pick-me-up in the form of a new pair of

years, and with this new service there’s almost

sunnies — and Cartier have got you covered. The

800 possible combinations available, allowing

new Set For You by Cartier eyewear service sees

you to create a look that’s truly you. You can

fans of the famed jeweller invited to customise

even engrave your initials on the lens. At last,

their own pair of rimless sunglasses by picking

glasses that are as much a one-off as you are.

Lock up your love Tiffany & Co. have stepped into a whole new world of wonder — and it’s right on your doorstep. The newest Middle East location for the New York jeweller, Mall of the Emirates in Dubai plays host to this 300 square metre showcase of Tiffany collections, as well as the Maison’s latest design concept. Soft, curving walls and cloudlike forms are topped off by a Lobmeyer chandelier and, of course, touches of the brand’s iconic Tiffany Blue are everywhere. There’s nowhere better to take a look at the newest pieces in the fledgling Tiffany Lock collection, or for the young romantics to head to the All About Love engagement ring salon, and let your dreams run wild. Breakfast at Tiffany’s? We’ll take lunch and dinner here, too

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

35

News

Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition wows the crowds RACHEL SILVESTRI

T

he surprises just kept coming at Doha Watch and Jewellery Exhibition, the region’s biggest and best-loved show of all things sparkling.

Attracting over 500 exhibitors, including all the top international Maisons and — this year, for the first time ever — regional jewellery megabrand Damas, visitors were delighted to see some real-life stars

as well as the twinkle of diamonds. International model Irina Shayk and darling of the Middle Eastern music scene Nancy Ajram paid a visit on the exhibition’s first day, as did members of the Qatari ruling family.

New attractions to the exhibition this year included pop-up Harrod’s Tea Rooms and Venchi cafés, where visitors could rest and unwind in comfort. Next year will see the event complete its second decade, so watch this space for further details about what we can expect from the 20th anniversary celebrations in 2024.

HAUTE HIGHLIGHTS

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Watch

Jaeger Le-Coultre Tribute Small Seconds

A VC&A classic since its launch in 2010, this

This beloved watchmaking Maison took

Boucheron Histoire de Style New Maharajahs High Jewellery

romantic timepiece depicts a kiss on the

the opportunity to highlight its historic

In a legendary moment for this stalwart

apex of a Parisian bridge in a poetic telling

Reverso collection, first launched in 1931,

of Place Vendôme’s joaillières, in 1928 the

of the time. Typical of the swoon-worthy

at the exhibition. Displaying some of the

Maharajah of Patiala placed the largest spe-

fantasy imbued in so many of Van Cleef’s

newest pieces in the line, visitors were

cial order in Boucheron’s history. Paying

creations, the female figure indicates the

awed by the iconic elegance of these chic

tribute to this landmark in the Maison’s for-

hours, and the male the minutes. When

and classic timepieces.

tunes, the Histoire de Style New Maharajahs

they finally meet, at noon and midnight,

collection echoes the mode and excesses of

they lean in for a kiss. It’s enough to make

those times with stunning items.

your heart flutter.

Boghossian Kissing Collection rings Well known for its audacious attitude to mixing rare gemstones, styles and influences, international jeweller Boghossian showed a number of its new high jewellery creations including these sensational emerald and diamond rings, new additions to the Maison’s Kissing Collection. A chunky bangle and earrings set with vivid jade and the sparkle of fine diamonds were also objects of desire for everyone who saw them.

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LVMH Watch Week launches really something to talk about RACHEL SILVESTRI

It

was an event so big that it took place on two continents — and in two of the world’s most watch-mad cities. Kicking off in Singapore before moving on to New York City, this year’s LVMH Watch Week was a dynamic event full of glamorous soirées and exciting new releases.

With Hublot, Zenith, Bulgari and Tag Heuer all present, the scene

was set for the type of excitement that only new releases can bring, and all the brands delivered. From the grace and beauty of Bulgari’s haute joaillerie timepieces, to the bombastic bling and heft of Hublot’s sweet surprises, it was the ideal aperitivo to whet appetites in time for the arrival of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023 in the springtime.

HAUTE HIGHLIGHTS

Hublot

TAG Heuer

Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Neon Yellow SAXEM

Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

Just one of many vivid new releases for Hublot, this timepiece none-

Building on the first Aquaracer Solargraph that was launched last

theless stood out — and not just for its refreshingly acidic colour.

year, this new version bears a light and almost utilitarian brushed

Its use of SAXEM, a man-made ultra-durable material with greater

titanium case which is just begging to be taken adventuring. Solar

brilliance than sapphire, meant that the colour intensity created

powered, light, durable and with ultra-high performance, it’s a

was the highest possible, but all the while revealing the skeleto-

robust companion to any and all outdoor pursuits. In fact, it’d be a

nised calibre inside. A true mellow yellow marvel.

shame to keep it indoors.

Bulgari

Zenith

Serpenti Tubogas Infinity

DEFY Skyline Skeleton

Bulgari’s jewels and timepieces are infinitely touchable, and this

One year on from launching the DEFY Skyline collection, Zenith

new iteration of the classic Serpenti silhouette takes that prin-

continues to move forward at a lightning pace with this — the

ciple to new levels of tactility. Seventy-five years on from Serpenti’s

only skeletonised watch in the world to feature a 1/10th of a second

debut, Bulgari continues to push the boundaries: setting diamonds

indicator. Moving beyond openworking and into architecture,

in curved links that snake around the wrist is no mean feat, and the

this futuristic timepiece boasts spectacularly good legibility and

overall effect is simply stunning. The pavé dial, bezel and case bring

symmetry, points usually sacrificed for skeletonisation. In blue or

the total number of diamonds up to 486, but without ever overwhel-

black-toned dials and at 41mm, this is a versatile watch to love

ming the simple effectiveness of the design. A masterpiece.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

37

News

Worldwide updates RACHEL SILVESTRI

Catalogue of treasures

T

he Collectibles book from Jaeger-Le Coultre is a new tome chronicling a capsule collection of rare and sought-after timepieces that have left the Maison’s hallowed manu-

facture. A lust-worthy read full of forgotten delights and famed classics, this is a must for fans of everything from the Reverso to the Rendez-Vous.

“With Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most emblematic timepieces being increasingly sought-after by collectors, we are delighted to introduce The Collectibles,” says Catherine Rénier, CEO of JaegerLeCoultre. “Together with a new master reference book for our Maison’s most emblematic models of the 20th century, this new programme presents a unique opportunity to acquire a piece of the Manufacture’s history.”

Pedal power

Kick off in style

The Tudor Pro Cycling Team is back for another year in the saddle.

Fifteen new riders and five returning riders will take on the 2023

Lace those boots up tight — if you’re going to keep up with these

season under the leadership of Fabian Cancellara, competing in

timepieces you’d better be quick. A must for rugby fans across

UCI’s Proteam class as well as a development team who’ll take part

Europe and beyond, the Guinness Six Nations tournament got

at the Continental level. Born to dare, indeed.

Breitling feeling all patriotic, and these six watches were the result.

Show your colours, be they for England, Ireland, Wales, Scotland, France or Italy, and enjoy the form and function of the Breitling Chronomat Six Nations at the same time. A subtle nod to the team that holds your heart.

Tough love Los Angeles-based fine jewellery brand Anita Ko is set to find a new audience this season, after partnering with luxe online retailer Mr Porter. The bold, tough and versatile pieces in Anita’s eponymous collection reference the rough-around-the-edges style of Tinseltown’s buzzing street culture. Spiked bracelets and safety pin earrings? Punk us up...

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Hublot x Murakami goes one step further It’s a match made in rule-breaking heaven — and for Takeshi Murakami’s collaborations with Hublot the hits just keep on coming. Following on from the success of their previous releases, this pair of disruptive forces has now launched a whopping 13 new timepieces, and 13 accompanying NFTs too.

“When my collaboration with Hublot was announced, we made it known that we would be adopting new forms of artistic expression,” said Murakami at the launch at New York City’s chic Glass House. “After creating all the timepieces together, as well as the digital works of art, we are now imagining new ways of accessing contemporary art.”

We can’t wait to see what’s up the sleeves, and on the wrists, of this explosive partnership next.

Frame of reference Continuing its commitment to exploring the complex interaction between design and the environment, Prada is poised to present the second in its series of Prada Frames symposiums, this time entitled Materials in Flux.

Having launched sustainable fine jewellery line Eternal Gold in late 2022, made completely from certified recycled gold, the environmental theme continues with Prada Frames examining the social and political implications of design and its use of materials. Taking place from 21-22 March in Hong Kong and 17-19 April in Milan as part of the Salone del Mobile, scholars and professionals from various fields will come together to share their innovative lines of thought.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

39

Watches and Wonders 2023 RACHEL SILVESTRI

A watchmaker’s

Wonderland Geneva is an horologer’s playground all year round, but this year’s edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva is set to surpass anything the city has seen before.

Marvels and inspirations await.

40

T

industry in general. The corona-

and its scope. It would split into two compo-

of 2022’s first in-person Watches and Won-

virus crisis forced brands to explore new

nents, a ticketed trade-focused show called

ders Geneva, the Salon is finally hitting its

approaches to marketing and manufacture,

‘The Salon’ and ‘In the City’, open to the

stride. With this year’s fair allowing access

and for Watches and Wonders Geneva —

public with a more festival-style feel.

to the public for the first time, things really

he past few years have been

in line with its other international Watches

as ever. The digital component of Watches

times of incredible upheaval for

and Wonders consumer and trade fairs, and

and Wonders has remained a key part of

watch trade shows, as well as the

would be expanding both in terms of brands

the fair’s presence, and after the success

are changing — and watch fans couldn’t be

which was all set to launch its inaugural

But the global pandemic put paid to these

Salon in spring 2020, transitioning from

lofty plans, leaving the FHH scrambling to

SIHH to something even bigger — it couldn’t

find a way to keep the event going. The deci-

GMT GCC caught up with FHH CEO Mat-

have come at a worse time.

sion was made to take Watches and Won-

thieu Humair ahead of Watches and Won-

more excited.

The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

ders Geneva digital, to unprecedented suc-

ders Geneva 2023 to find out how the pan-

(FHH) made the announcement in 2019 that

cess. Watch lovers worldwide flocked to its

demic accelerated the Salon’s progress,

its long-running Salon International de la

online platform, with an estimated reach

what the public can expect from their visit

Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) would be rebrand-

of 85 million, proving that the demand for

and how in-person watch fairs will always

ing as Watches and Wonders Geneva to come

watch news and novelties was as strong

be important to the industry...

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GMT GCC: The excitement is building for

‘The Lab’, where innovation is at the heart

watch lovers — the second successive

of watch movements. And with the unique

strength of our hybrid format, combining online and offline, is its flexibility, mean-

Watches and Wonders Geneva is about

What Time Is It? exhibition, there are so many

ing that we can adapt the format to the

to begin, and for the first time ever the

new wonders to discover.

evolving situation. In the past, this has

doors will be open to the public. What

Watches and Wonders will also take resi-

allowed us to maintain our calendar and it

can visitors expect from this hallowed

dence ‘In the City’, with a rich programme

will continue to enable us to connect with

watchmaking ground?

throughout the week: events planned in

our guests around the world. Today this

MATTHIEU HUMAIR: This year we are wel-

the watchmaking boutiques, a watch rally,

hybrid concept is our new normal. We can’t

coming 10 new exhibitors for a total of 48

guided tours and a big event that will take

have a physical event only. It must be com-

Maisons, an increase from 38 in 2022. The

place on the evening of March 30 to cele-

bined with a major digital component to

major move comes from the fact that we are

brate watchmaking. Watches and Wonders

have the best of the two worlds.

opening our doors to the general public for a

Geneva 2023 is a big celebration and we will

weekend, an opportunity for visitors to dis-

have Wonders in the entire city!

cover the marvels unveiled by the Maisons

Watches and Wonders Geneva is all about ‘expecting the unexpected’ and constantly anticipating our industry’s expectations.

and to dive into the world of exceptional

After a few uncertain years, do you feel

By inviting the general public to the event,

watches. A content-rich programme has

that the Salon has found its groove?

whether in the Salon or ‘In the City’, we

been specially designed for the general pub-

Finding our groove is a permanent quest,

want to make Geneva the ultimate destina-

lic, from nearly six conferences per day to

and every single edition is a challenge. The

tion for watchmaking. 

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41

Watches and Wonders Geneva is the Fashion Week of the

exhibitors is another one. The fact that we work closely, hand

watch industry and the heart of Geneva will beat to the

in hand, with the 48 exhibiting Maisons allows us to better

rhythm of watchmaking movements, both at the Salon and

understand their expectations and respond accordingly. Our

across the entire city!

strength, as Watches and Wonders, is the result of a collective initiative.

Some voices in the industry have expressed that the ‘traditional’ trade fair is an outdated concept — but the suc-

As well as being an important place for face-to-face meet-

cessful rebirth of SIHH as Watches and Wonders, despite

ings in the watch community, Watches and Wonders

the complications of the Covid era, seems to be proving

Geneva’s online reach and presence has been unprece-

those voices wrong. How and why is Watches and Wonders

dented. How important is this to the future of the Salon?

maintaining its position of importance to the industry?

Digitalization has brought us to another level. The reach we

The two-year Covid period has accelerated the digitalization

can get nowadays globally has no comparison to the past. We

of the Salon, which has been a major challenge for all of us.

had a 350 million reach in 2022. The buzz and visibility on a

Today, digital is a complete component of all our physical

global scale with Watches and Wonders is mainly due to the

events, as with Geneva. Its hybrid concept — deployed in 2022

tremendous work done by our exhibiting Maisons, which

and reconducted in 2023 — is designed to constantly adapt to

are among the most prestigious and powerful players in the

the changing context, by combining a physical salon with

industry. During the entire week, the participating Maisons

digital solutions that meet market expectations.

talk together about watchmaking, with a stronger impact

After the success of the 2022 edition, we could measure the need to meet again in person. There’s nothing like meeting

when they are all together. This is so important for the future of watchmaking.

the women and men who make the watches in person, and

Watches and Wonders Geneva is more than an event, it

touching and wearing the products on the wrist. The factor

is a watchmaking summit where all the new products are

behind the success is a combination of different elements.

launched. It allows the industry to come together and to meet

Flexibility is one of those. Understanding the needs of our

the movers and shakers of today’s watchmaking world. 

“Watches and Wonders Geneva is the Fashion Week of the watch industry and the heart of Geneva will beat to the rhythm of watchmaking movements, both at the Salon and across the entire city!”

Matthieu Humair CEO of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

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From Watches and Wonders 2022 Back to the future It doesn’t seem so long ago that these were the most talked-about timepieces of the Salon — but it’s now a year since these fantastical watches made their debut.

GMT GCC looks back at 2022’s most spectacular launches, the perfect way to get an idea of what may be about to drop at this year’s edition.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 A reissue of the legendary 222, originally launched in 1977 for the 222nd anniversary of this storied Maison, this memorable shape was Vacheron’s first foray in to ‘sports-chic’ watchmaking and a milestone for the brand. This compact 37mm version is supremely wearable and, with its 18 carat gold hues and subtle date window at three o’ clock, is a modern classic that will stay in style forever.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Time Travel Combining its patented Annual Calendar and its sought-after Travel Time dual time display, Patek Philippe merged convenience and attractiveness in this exquisite, and newly self-winding, timepiece. The grainy anthracite dial screams adventure and durability, while the case’s Clous de Paris guillochéd hobnail pattern brings the refinement. A real traveller’s masterpiece.

Chopard L.U.C Sound of Eternity Trio Everyone may have been talking about the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon, with its vivid blue dial Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels

and sparkling complication, but to GMT GCC’s eyes this

Heures Florales

exquisite trio was equally as exciting. A celebration of 25

This charmingly elegant and

years of the L.U.C collection, the L.U.C Strike One, L.U.C

complicated timepiece was inspired by

Full Strike Sapphire and L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon

Carl Von Linné’s 1751 floral clock concept,

were fine-tuned by virtuoso cellist and violinist broth-

and measures time with the blooming

ers Gautier and Renaud Capuçon. Having launched its

and closing of the 12 corollas on the dial. The

first minute repeater in 2016, this progression demon-

scenery changes each hour, with the sublime

strated just how far Chopard’s manufacture has come.

blues and greens on the white mother of pearl

These watches not only strike all the right notes, but

background providing a delicate contrast to some

they’re as pleasing to the eye as they are to the ear.

of the more garish design observed in 2022.

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43

The who’s who of W and W From A. Lange & Söhne to Zenith, Watches and Wonders Geneva just keeps getting bigger. Finding it hard to keep track of all 48? Here’s the full list of exhibitors — just try and catch them all.

 A. Lange & Söhne  Alpina Watches  Angelus  Arnold & Son  Baume & Mercier  Beauregard  Bell & Ross  Cartier  Chanel  Charles Zuber  Charriol  Chopard  Chronoswiss  Cyrus Genève  Czapek & Cie  Ferdinand Berthoud  Frederique Constant  Grand Seiko  Grönefeld  Hautlence  Hermès  Hublot  Hysek  IWC Schaffhausen  Jaeger-LeCoultre  Laurent Ferrier  Louis Moinet  Montblanc  Oris  Panerai  Parmigiani Fleurier  Patek Philippe  Pequignet  Piaget  Rebellion Timepieces  Ressence  Roger Dubuis  Rolex  Rudis Sylva  Speake-Marin  TAG Heuer  Trilobe  Tudor  U-Boat  Ulysse Nardin  Vacheron Constantin  Van Cleef & Arpels  Zenith

“After the success of the 2022 edition, we could measure the need to meet again in person. There’s nothing like meeting the women and men who make the watches in person, and touching and wearing the products on the wrist.”

Matthieu Humair CEO of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

The SIHH had an almost 20-year history before its trans-

digital watch and jewellery exhibitions, in Geneva as well as

formation in 2020 — what elements of the Salon live on in

internationally too.

Watches and Wonders?

44

There was no disruption in the history of the Salon, I would

One such international exhibition is Watches and Won-

rather say Watches and Wonders is its continuation. It was a

ders Hainan, in China’s southern island province, which

natural evolution with the arrival of major players like Rolex,

has just come to a close — how was it received this year?

Patek Philippe, Chopard, Chanel and Tudor. The pandemic

The concept of Hainan is different as it is more a commercial

came and we had to come up with a digital alternative in a

event. It takes place in a mall and has been designed for the

very short period of time. The strength of Watches and Won-

general public. The choice of Hainan was natural as many

ders is that we could adapt very quickly to a new situation and

of our exhibiting brands already had boutiques there and it

secure every edition, despite Covid-19, to keep the momentum

is becoming a strong shopping destination for local clientele.

for the good of the industry. SIHH became Watches and Won-

This year we extended the format of the event to two locations,

ders in 2022 in its physical format, knowing that the name was

with the ‘historical’ mall in Sanya and the brand-new mall in

already used for editions in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Miami.

Haiku. The results are, again, beyond our expectations.

Following the inaugural Watches and Wonders in 2022, the

Why is it important for Watches and Wonders to maintain

Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation was formed.

a presence in China, particularly? The country’s travel

Can you share a little about its mission, its activities so

restrictions have recently dropped — are the Maisons back

far and what the foundation ultimately hopes to achieve?

to ‘business as usual’ with the Far East, or will it take a

After the success of the first edition of Watches and Wonders

little more time for the sleeping tiger to awaken?

Geneva in 2022, Rolex, Richemont and Patek Philippe decided

Watches and Wonders has been present in the region for a

to create the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation

long time as it is a major market for watchmaking. Most of

[WWGF]. Its mission is to promote watchmaking excellence

our exhibiting Maisons have a presence there. It is therefore

throughout the world. The WWGF was established in Sep-

our mission to support them with the organisation of major

tember 2022, and its purpose is to organize either in-person or

events according to their needs and expectations.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

45

Tech insights DAVID CHOKRON

CHOPARD L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire The sapphire gong of the L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire is cut from a single piece, along with its crystal

Acoustics under

pressure Technical advances in chiming movements are increasing the volume and quality of sound.

They prove the value of watchmakers who know the (musical) score and delight devotees of melodies played on the wrist.

A DOUBLE BREAK WITH TRADITION Six years ago, two innovations changed the state of the art. Aude-

T

46

mars Piguet launched its Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie. It consists of inserting a vibrating part between the movement and the he year 2016 proved pivotal for watches sounding

caseback, which is pierced with holes. This component naturally

the time, and more recent developments have

amplifies the chime, without having to make further changes to

continued the trend. After decades of incremen-

the existing movements. In addition to its formidable auditory

tal advances and marginal improvements, the

efficiency, Supersonnerie saved Audemars Piguet time and money.

quality and intensity of minute repeater watches

Then came Chopard, which revolutionized the manufacture of

made a double quantum leap. Until then, to put it simply, the

audible timepieces with its L.U.C Full Strike. Instead of metal

case, gongs and minute repeater movement were three separate

gongs screwed to the movement and/or the case, the brand created

entities. The gong had to excite the rest of the watch, which was

a system in which the gongs are machined in the same block as the

responsible for propagating the sound outwards. Yet all waves

glass, and therefore in sapphire. The transmission is accomplished

need coherence and a watch is a naturally heterogeneous, discon-

through a homogeneous medium to a vibratory membrane with

tinuous medium, which restricts sound. It was Jaeger-LeCoultre

direct access to the outside. And since homogeneity is crucial, at

that invented the crystal gong, and welded the gongs to the watch

Watches and Wonders 2022 Chopard launched the L.U.C Full Strike

glass, to use the latter as a propagator.

Sapphire, with an entirely sapphire case.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

BULGARI Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon

ULYSSE NARDIN Blast Hourstriker

“Isolating the resonator from the wrist and the case enables minute-repeaters to vibrate more freely and with a more intense sound.”

MEMBRANES The effectiveness of these two principles has led others to follow suit. Ulysse Nardin worked with the loudspeaker manufacturer Devialet for their Hourstriker. They interposed a vibrating metal membrane, connected to the movement by a lever, with case openings facilitating its expression. Bulgari, in order to separate the chiming mechanism from the shock-absorbing medium represented by the wrist, devised a case-decoupling system. The Octo Roma Blue Carillon Tourbillon features a double structure: a platinum grid that encompasses the lugs and ensures a smooth fit on the wrist, and then a titanium secondary case housing the movement and dotted with resonant zones. The movement chimes, the container resonates and the platinum case does not

The construction of the Audemars Piguet Supersonnerie system

dampen the sound. New creative paths and techniques are being envisaged for future projects with the Geneva

The caseback of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Supersonnerie

acoustics specialist Goldmund, whose high-end speakers are much appreciated by demanding music lovers.

Finally, Patek Philippe has synthesized most of the above solutions and applied them to its Caliber R 27 PS. The Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” adds a circular sapphire piece between the movement and the caseback, under the name ‘ff’, standing for fortissimo amplification module. Dedicated to the striking mechanism, it vibrates smoothly and its transparency reveals all. In a crowning touch, the sound is transmitted through four apertures in a titanium container. Technologies conPATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research”

verge, great minds think alike and listening pleasure wins the day.

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47

Interview

48

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

RACHEL SILVESTRI

My time

Triple threat Living up to the #squadonamission hashtag, Breitling’s newest ambassador Dina Al Tayeb is a pioneering Saudi triathlete that’s seemingly unstoppable. GMT GCC (just about) caught up with her to talk women, watches and what’s next for this person of purpose.

Dr

Dina Al Tayeb is a dentist and

med this sporting connection by co-designing the

mother of three from Jeddah,

Endurance Pro Ironman series of athleisure time-

Saudi Arabia. But before that

pieces with the Ironman Group. A racy red version

perfect

domesticity

is available globally, while a black and gold edition

settles in your mind, there are a few other things

is reserved exclusively for Ironman race finishers; an

you should know: she was the first Saudi woman to

elite club of which Dina is a member.

image

of

compete in a full-distance Ironman, the first Saudi

“Ironman truly reflects our core values of perfor-

in her age group to qualify for the Ironman World

mance and endurance,” said Breitling CEO Georges

Championship in Kona and she has competed in

Kern at the launch of the new timepieces. “We’ve

more than 100 triathlons to date. Phew.

designed this to be an ideal watch for elite athletes

Her very first Ironman in 2005 was a 15-hour

as well as a casual, everyday sports chronograph for

slog, and wasn’t helped by her being the only per-

active people who want that winning combination

son in Saudi training for the extreme race, unable

of performance and luxury.”

to access the necessary level of coaching and nutri-

Equally thrilled was Ironman Group President

tion knowledge to make a significant dent in the

and CEO Andrew Messich, who said: “After the suc-

race time. But little by little Dina has perfected her

cess of our collaboration in 2019, we are pleased to

process by trial and error, paving the way for other

partner with Breitling in creating this new watch

Middle Eastern triathletes to go forward and succeed

which embodies the strength and tenacity of Iron-

in this toughest of disciplines.

man triathletes.”

A perfect fit, then, as an ambassador for Breitling,

And there are few as strong and tenacious as

the official watchmaker of Ironman — and a brand

Dina. Joining Breitling’s existing elite Triathlon

on its own mission. First partnering with Ironman

Squad members Jan Frodeno, Daniela Ryf and

in 2019, Breitling launched the Superocean Ironman

Chris ‘Macca’ McCormack, it’s Dina’s time to shine

Limited Edition, and this year the watchmaker affir-

— in every aspect of her life.

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49

GMT: As a leading athlete in Saudi, you represent the potential, progress and achievement of Saudi women in sport. How does it feel to have such a role, and to see young generations of Saudi women achieving in sport for the very first time?

Dina: This is the best time to be an athlete. As we see how Saudi Arabia progresses rapidly under vision 2030, we see the progress and the support that the government gives to its athletes. There has never been a better time. There is great passion for sports and for triathlons. There are so many young female athletes that have amazing potential and are dedicated, passionate and have the support to excel in sports. When I started triathlon in 2002, the sport was new in the region, the facilities were limited, and the community was non-existent. I had to rely solely on my internal motivation and drive to excel and achieve.

You work closely with the Saudi triathlon federation and support women to gain a bigger platform in triathlon — why is it so crucial to support and encourage more women into sports?

I am a board member of the Saudi Triathlon Federation and I have an amazing team with me. We work on developing new talent in triathlon, both female and male athletes. Our job is to give them all the support that they need so they can develop the needed talent to be the best in the sport. We as a federation promote both women and men in sports as part of the 2030 vision.

How do Breitling’s brand values and your own align?

Breitling represents endurance. In my sport and in my life, endurance is important to achieve my dreams.

Dreams are achieved by hard work, persistence and patience. Breitling is my partner in my endurance journey and I know there’s a joint mission for realizing aspirations with a sense of fun.

Breitling Endurance Pro Ironman Case: Breitlight® with bidirectional compass scale bezel Size: 44mm, 12.5mm thick Movement: Quartz Breitling Caliber 82 in thermocompensated SuperQuartz™ with a battery life of 3-4 years Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph Dial: Red with black inner bezel with pulsometer scale, black chronograph counters, Ironman logo and Super-LumiNova® numerals, hour and minute hands Strap: Red rubber with Breitlight® buckle

50

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

BREITLING Endurance Pro Ironman Finisher

The Breitling Endurance Pro is a timepiece that celebrates movement, adventure and being outdoors — what do you love about your Breitling Endurance Pro? It represents quality, style and strength, all the elements that are needed to succeed. The watch is lightweight which is perfect for athletes and active people. It’s also fashionable enough for everyday wear. I wear the Ironman edition, which reminds me of my achievements.

How did you get into triathlons?

I think the sport found me, as I stumbled upon triathlon by chance and fell in love with the endurance aspect from the first race. I started in 2002, with 2005 being my first full Ironman in Canada. Twenty years later, I’ve done over 100 races including 18 full Ironmans. To me triathlon is a lifestyle, one that’s fun and exciting.

What does measuring time mean to you in the context of this incredible sport that consists of three sports in one: a swim, a bike and a run?

Racing full distance Ironman requires precise preparation. We have to prepare what to wear, the equipment we need, our nutrition, how fast we run, the power we put on the bike. Everything is carefully calculated by the minute. We have to have a solid plan that we practice multiple times to ensure that it is effective. Time is a critical part of the plan.

You were the first Saudi in your age group to qualify for Kona, which is the pinnacle event of your sport.

“We all have dreams.

It’s about believing in yourself.”

Dina Al Tayeb Triathlete and Breitling ambassador

What did that feel like?

Qualifying for Kona was a dream that I chased for 15 years. It wasn’t an easy journey, with many obstacles that needed navigation and many trials that didn’t lead to the result I wanted. But I never stopped believing in my dream or doubting that I’d get there one day. I’m grateful that my dream became a reality and I was an athlete on the start line of that magical island in 2018.

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51

“I think the sport found me, as I stumbled upon triathlon by chance and fell in love with the endurance aspect from the first race.”

Dina Al Tayeb Triathlete and Breitling ambassador

Breitling triathlon squad members Chris McCormack, Jan Frodeno and Daniela Ryf

Can you share a special memory that relates to ‘time’ — perhaps a personal achievement, or a moment in your life that is now a cherished memory?

Qualifying for the world championship in Kona meant winning my age group with the fastest time in the race.

The competition is hard and the athletes are fast and strong. In Ironman Chattanooga 2017 I had an amazing race where the weather was hot, and I raced well. Being from Saudi Arabia, I am used to racing in warm climates and heat doesn’t affect me. I had the fastest time of the day and was able to get my Kona qualifying slot.

You’re also a brand ambassador for ASICS and much sought-after by brands in the region. How do you choose which brands to work with?

ASICS FrontRunner is an amazing community. I’m honoured to be with a brand that is known for excellence, style and support of everyone. We are stronger together, and it’s a brand that believes in ‘sound mind, sound body’ which resonates with me. I believe that sports are more than a finish line. It’s a journey and a lifestyle. I am very selective in working with brands that share my value and passion.

Finally, as a new Breitling ambassador, what are you most excited about?

I am very excited to spread my message and share my journey with other women in my region. Help them achieve their dreams, inspire them to achieve the impossible. We all have dreams. It’s about believing in yourself.

52

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

Best of Instagram RACHEL SILVESTRI

A creator, an innovator, a community and a CEO: you won’t regret following these four fascinating accounts!

WITH WORDS

ner, Nadine Kanso, known for reworking traditional y jewelry, is unapologetic in more ways than one.

oldly you. Who

ade me who I am and the signature king photographs, be my truest self. g up with a really

rapher. What’s roach your art,

m the same spirit my identity, social

2,932 posts

KH: What is your favorite wardrobe item?

NK: It’s not really a wardrobe item, but my favorite part of what I wear on a daily basis is always my eyes, because they are the window to your soul. Or just a great pair of jeans. I love jeans and wear them all the time, whatever the occasion.

KH: How does your style reflect or influence how you feel?

NK: Even if I’m in a white T-shirt and jeans, I like to feel cool and stylish. It’s an attitude more than a reflection or influence.

KH: Who are your style icons?

NK: I would have to say Elizabeth Taylor or Cher.

30.1K followers

1,492 following

6,277 posts

133K followers

@benkueffer 931 following

235 posts

3,092 followers

1,492 following

KH: What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given?

NK: That if you believe and feel strongly about a decision, you should go for it, no matter what the consequences are.

KH: What advice would you give to people who are afraid to live their best lives?

NK: I would say that days will quickly pass and you’ll never get them back, so make the best of every day. Every minute counts.

KH: If you could give advice to your 20-year-old self, what would it be?

NK: I would tell myself to live life to the fullest and as if there is no tomorrow. Be bold, Nadine, be bold!

KH: What is the best thing about being unapologetic for who you are?

NK: That you own yourself and take ownership of who are.

ke a collage, or a

KH: When are you at your happiest?

NK: I am happiest when I am hugged and kissed, especially by my family and kids.

ction of your own

KH: Favorite sorbet flavor?

NK: The flavor of life. Too abstract? OK, how about mandarin. I really love mandarin sorbet.

Photo by Hikmat Wehbi

getic for?

akes you happy? veryone else, that t follow everyone

@arabwatchguide

@nadinekanso

Interview by Kate Hazell

d in your work?

n my work in the work every once t thinking of the

251

Nadine Kanso

Hassan Akhras

Ben Küffer

Designer and creative director of Bil Arabi

Watch community leader

Founder and CEO of Norqain

What’s to like? There’s glitz, there’s glam, and then there’s Nadine Kanso. The undisputed queen of sophisticated Arab pride, this cultural entrepreneur has brought her art, photography and unique designs to the region and the wider world in a show of the beauty and strength present throughout the Middle East. .

Why follow ? As well as taking a peek into her fabulous life, a follow for Nadine promises surprise after surprise. From drops of her new Bil Arabi collections to collaborations with Maisons such as Guerlain, there’s always something new and magnificent to discover.

What’s to like? A leading light in the region’s watch community for almost a decade, Arab Watch Guide was founded in 2014 and Arab Watch Club in 2015, representing collectors spanning the GCC, Lebanon, Syria and beyond. Led by the expert eye of founder Hassan Akhras, there have been more than 15 special watch editions created exclusively for the club.

Why follow ? Always the first with the new, now and next of regional availability and trends, as well as having a keen eye on the business side of watch collection and the horological Maisons, a follow for Arab Watch Guide is a finger on the pulse.

What’s to like? With the tagline ‘my life, my way’ this dynamic CEO embodies his daring and forwardpushing watch brand to a tee. With a healthy mix of business, adventure and family feeling (apt for a family-run brand), this is the very epitome of watch lifestyle.

Why follow ? A refreshingly honest account of the life of an horological CEO, this account isn’t overly curated or polished — but it is full of insight into the hopes and dreams behind the Wild ONE and other Norqain ventures. And now with the brand’s partnership with the Dubai Marathon, there’s all the more reason to keep an eye on this regional rising star.

@daa_live 1,623 posts

7,149 followers

1,519 following

Deremi Ajidahun Entrepreneur, influencer and publisher

What’s to like? Deremi is the CEO of Hole19 Group and director of the retailer Zakaa in Nigeria. He launched the GMT Africa franchise and has just relaunched GMT GCC, distributed in Saudi Arabia, Oman, Kuwait, Bahrain, United Arab Emirates and Qatar.

Why follow ? A member of the GPHG 2022 jury, Deremi is an entrepreneur who manages countless projects, enjoys travelling and is always up for a party. He posts his favourites during watch shows and this account helps followers keep up to speed!

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

53

In the workshop of...

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Cartier La Maison des Métiers d’Art

I

54

A centuries-old soul and three floors dedicated to perpetuating expertise, sharing and innovating. n Switzerland, Cartier has five watchmak-

certification for sustainable buildings — becoming

ing production entities employing 1,400

the marque’s Maison des Métiers d’Art. Its vocation is

people, 900 of whom work at the imposing

based on safeguarding and reviving sometimes for-

Manufacture in La-Chaux-de-Fonds alone.

gotten crafts, as well as sharing them in order to

They make daily use of 5,000 machine

innovate. It notably houses former cabinetmakers

tools, including 200 specifically for machining. For

who have created their own wood marquetry micro-

the past four years, decision-making and informa-

cutting tool resembling a loom, as well as artisans

tion exchange processes at all hierarchical levels

who have returned from the Louvre to give new life

have encouraged productivity and innovation, while

to Etruscan art.

cutting the number of watches returned for after-

This high-flying laboratory feeds off the power

sales service by a third. Its CEO Cyrille Vigneron has

of Cartier, while bringing heightened creativity.

also insisted that Cartier reduce its carbon footprint

Its teams are immersed in history, yet also draw

by half in the next 10 years, an inescapable challenge

their knowledge from the culture of great civiliza-

in today’s luxury industry.

tions — including China and India — whose skills

A few steps away from this ultra-efficient build-

are applied to creating one-of-a-kind models. This

ing, a 300-year-old farmhouse has been entirely

thirst for constant exchanges and learning enables

renovated by Cartier — obtaining the highest LEED

them to surpass themselves.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

CONCEIVING THE INCONCEIVABLE By way of example, the astonishing Coussin watch — with its gemstone-paved soft case flexible to the touch — owes its existence to this interactive knowledge platform. The design department wanted an haute joaillerie watch that could reflect several different skills and convey emotion through sight as well as touch. Working out how to create a flexible case and how to set it with gems required innovation.

Cartier had already created a gold-mesh glove watch. Pushing the principle to the extreme, the chainmail was effectively closed up and given life through a rebound effect. In order for it to return to its initial position, an elastomer shock absorber was designed using 3D printing. The same went for the chainmail grid pattern, composed of multiple mesh elements that had to be modelled and printed all at once. This required such a large computer memory capacity that its power had to be increased in advance of any printing taking place. It was impossible to set gems on a soft surface since the gemsetter normally applies pressure to secure the stones in place. Using the same process, scaffolding was built and placed inside the grid pattern to prevent it from collapsing, then cut once the chainmail was set using the four-grain technique. An artistic and technological feat yielding an incomparable result, as all the people involved in this limited series still vividly recall.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

55

My time RACHEL SILVESTRI

Show the love Hublot loves football – and wants to shout it from the rooftops.

GMT GCC looks back at an incredible year for this rulebreaking marque and its intimate relationship with the beautiful game.

56

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

It

could be said that Hublot was Argentina’s

Little did he know just how lucky they would be.

World Cup good luck charm. For a nation

The Hublot name was everywhere in Qatar and the

that puts much stock in ‘la cabala’ — the

wider Middle East, as was its Hublot Loves Football

rituals that bring good fortune during

campaign — from the spectacular lighting up of

football matches, such as wearing the same shirt or

the Burj Khalifa in Dubai, Doha’s Torch tower and

sitting in the same seat each game — it can’t have

Riyadh’s Times Square in the brand’s livery, to the

gone unnoticed that less than one month before the

very sidelines of the pitches and the wrists of the refs

2022 FIFA World Cup kicked off, Hublot opened its

who sported Big Bang timepieces. Surely Hublot was

first boutique in South America. And the brand chose

a talisman for Argentina — more than fitting for

the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires to do it in, with

a brand whose passion for football is worn as a

the great and good of the Argentine Football Associa-

badge of honour.

tion [AFA] in attendance.

As the official timekeeper of the FIFA World

“We are very happy, and this is a very special

Cup Qatar 2022, Hublot had more than just a

moment for the Selección [the Argentine national

symbolic role in proceedings. In a tournament

football team],” said Claudio Tapia, president of the

where every second counted, the precision of a

AFA, at the opening. “And luckily, the World Cup is

master Swiss horologer was crucial to ensur-

almost here.”

ing fair play for all. And in addition to  GREAT GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES MAGAZINE 57

the more technical side of things, Hublot

Mira brought together 15 footballing big

The friends and ambassadors that Mira

also brought a creative flair in the shape of

names — all Hublot ambassadors or friends

worked with were certainly an impressive

Lebanese fashion designer Mira Mikati,

of the brand — to each design a ‘football of

bunch. From legendary and now sadly

who put a colourful and memorable stamp

their dreams’ that embodied not just their

departed footballing great Pelé, to World

on the brand’s Qatar activities, not least of

approach to the game, but also their life.

Cup veterans Gareth Southgate, David

The result was a playful, powerful and exu-

Trezeguet and Didier Deschamps, to the

berant collection that brought the passion

youth and future of the game in the form

all with the Hublot Loves Football logo.

“For this year’s tournament, we wanted to do something that expresses our belief

58

that football provokes to life.

of pioneering Spain national Alexia Putel-

in a free, diverse and unified world in a

“Play is at the heart of all my designs,”

las and young player of the moment Kylian

new and memorable way,” said Ricardo

said Mira. “When I’m not playing with

Mbappé, who kept fans rapt until the very

Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, ahead of the

colour, I’m playing with words. Just as

last game of the tournament — losing by

tournament. “Football is the world’s game

football sparks joy on the pitch, I want my

a whisker to Lionel Messi’s Argentina —

and has a unique power to carry a mes-

work to be a constant supply of happiness.

Hublot’s partnerships demonstrated the

sage of hope to every corner of the Earth,

Dreams really can come true. Meeting

brand’s seriousness about getting to the

connecting us and showcasing everything

Hublot’s ambassadors and discussing their

heart and soul of football.

that brings us together. Passion, fairness,

dreams, passions and how far these drivers

And the achievements didn’t stop there.

family. We’re so proud to be working with

can take you was very special. By interpret-

In advance of the tournament, Hublot

Mira Mikati, our Hublot ambassadors and

ing every player’s dream, with Hublot we

released a landmark timepiece — the Big

friends of the brand to tell this story. We’re

want to inspire others to dream just as big.

Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022. With

also thrilled to be the Official Timekeeper

Whether it’s playing for your country or

the tournament’s 129 official referees each

of the FIFA World Cup for a fourth time,

designing your own collection, we want to

sporting one of these special Big Bangs on

going back to the South Africa tournament

inspire the next generation to believe they

their wrists, they played an integral part

of 2010.”

can achieve anything.”

in the World Cup, both on the pitch as well

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

as at home. Fans were delighted with the

Stadium, just after the launch of the Big

tournament and enriching it for players,

‘match mode’ functionality and its circu-

Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022, marked

officials and fans alike.

lar ‘goal line’ timeline split into five sec-

the unveiling of the largest structure in

And when it came to the overall win-

tors around the outside of the dial, allow-

the Spatial metaverse and Hublot’s first

ner, Ricardo Guadalupe said it best when

ing viewers to follow the tournament’s 64

foray into this virtual world. Rolling out

opening the Buenos Aires boutique and

games’ progress through first half, half

VR experiences of this 90,000-seat art,

presenting Claudio Tapia with a special

time, second half and additional time. In

sport and digital event space modelled

‘Albiceleste’-inspired timepiece: “Football

case of extra time, a special mode auto-

around the shape of the new Big Bang

is part of Hublot’s culture, and sharing

matically activated and goal information,

timepiece that inspired it, Hublot took

this with strong footballing nations such

red and yellow card notifications, penalty

a roving exhibition to venues all over

as Argentina is important.”

animations and other features brought

the Middle East and Asia to allow fans a

the action home for those not lucky

chance to really get inside the action.

enough to be in the stadia.

Luckily for us all, Hublot took the chance to share its footballing spirit not

Not content to simply sit on the side-

just with winning footballing nations

However, there was one stadium that

lines as official timekeeper, Hublot took

but with the whole world — and long may

anyone in the world could access — and

its ‘art of fusion’ motto to the World Cup

#hublotlovesfootball continue to shine a

Hublot was behind that, too. The open-

in grand style, infusing its uniquely inno-

light on the most enjoyable parts of this

ing of the Hublot Loves Football Metaverse

vative and rule-breaking attitude into the

beautiful game.

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

59

Icon

MARIE DE PIMODAN

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

Carrera has been tearing up the tarmac for 60 years A racing fan, as well as a keen lover of architecture and design, Jack Heuer launched the Carrera chronograph in 1963. His vision was of legibility and functionality for this watchmaking icon which, 60 years later, drives on with undeniably daring panache.

60

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

TAG Heuer Carrera Red Dial Limited Edition

“1963 was one of the most significant years in my career in the watch industry as it was the year in which I designed my first Carrera chronograph.”

JACK HEUER

Jack Heuer & Joe Siffert

W

Heuer Carrera 2447S

hat are some of the most memorable high-

A ‘territory’ distilled into a timelessly elegant chrono with a

lights from 1963? The civil rights march

shock-resistant case and a visibly large dial thanks to the thin-

organised by Martin Luther King on the

ness of the bezel.

day he gave his historic “I have a dream”

In 1969, the collection shifted into high gear with the Carrera

speech; the assassination of President John

Chronomatic Calibre 11, one of the world’s first automatic chrono-

F. Kennedy in Dallas; Brigitte Bardot’s La Madrague and Serge Gains-

graphs. TAG Heuer negotiated this technical shift perfectly and at

bourg’s La Javanaise blaring out on French-language radio stations…

full speed. Witness the list of the illustrious racing drivers who have

But watchmaking history will remember this year for the birth of

adopted the Carrera across successive generations: Joe Siffert, Jackie

the now famous Carrera. This chronograph was the first model

Ickx, Clay Regazzoni, Mario Andretti, Jody Scheckter and, more

designed by Jack Heuer, the then CEO of the watch company.

recently, David Coulthard, Kimi Räikkönen, Fernando Alonso and Lewis Hamilton as well as Alain Prost.

INSPIRED BY RACING A devotee of clean, modern lines, a discerning aesthete as well as

ELEGANCE ON THE TRACK

a great admirer of the work of Charles Eames, Le Corbusier, Eero

In six decades, Carrera has remained part of the circuit. On the eve

Saarinen and Oscar Niemeyer, Jack Heuer was above all deter-

of its 60th anniversary, TAG Heuer has every intention of continuing

mined to create a chronograph combining aesthetic restraint

its legacy. The latest additions to this great family include a Carrera

with technical efficiency, along with at-a-glance readability. An

Red Dial in a 600-piece limited edition with a 39mm steel case fram-

ideal companion in the heat of the moment, especially when

ing a crimson red dial and powered by the high-precision automatic

driving a car. The moniker he chose owed nothing to chance, as

movement Calibre Heuer 2. Another version brings another style,

the chronograph was named after the Carrera Panamericana,

with a Carrera in a chic, all yellow gold livery. Its look is reminiscent

the most demanding and dangerous endurance rally in the world

of Reference 1158 CHN, the first yellow gold Carrera model launched

at the time.

in 1970 and known to be Jack Heuer’s favorite. With its 42mm case

“It was at Sebring that I first heard the Spanish word carrera”,

topped by a thin bezel as well as its deep black dial featuring two

said Jack Heuer in his autobiography The Times of my Life. “I loved

yellow gold counters, this Carrera is the epitome of sophistication.

not only its sexy sound but also its multiple meanings, includ-

It also flaunts a key trump card in the form of confidently asserted

ing road, race, course and career. All very much Heuer territory!”

timelessness — today and hopefully for a long time to come.

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PLACES RACHEL SILVESTRI

A sacred space A private haven and home to an influential community of creatives, entrepreneurs and thought leaders, The Arts Club Dubai carries on the grand tradition of its original London hub, which has served the UK capital’s elite since 1863. GMT GCC steps into this exclusive world to talk culture, connections and horological collections.

T

he concept of the oasis was one of the Middle East’s many gifts to the world. In essence, it is a fertile haven of lush vegetation surrounded by harsh desert, and oases — al wahat in Arabic — were traditionally places that sustained desert dwellers. Well protected by their local

populations, trees were often planted on the edges of oases to trap and protect their life-giving waters. It’s no surprise that many of the GCC’s most beautiful spots — the UAE’s Al Ain and Liwa, Saudi Arabia’s AlUla, Buraimi in Oman, amongst others — were once simple stop-offs for those seeking respite from the punishing emptiness of the desert.

Nowadays, well-to-do desert-dwellers still go in search of oases, but it’s no longer dehydration that drives them — rather, it’s a thirst for culture, art and beauty in the company of like-minded individuals in a place where, like the oases of old, the sheltered surroundings provide shade, comfort and seclusion from the strains of the world beyond. 

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With its opening in 2020, The Arts Club Dubai became such an oasis, its shelter in the form of 6,500 square metres of exquisite architecture and décor, laid out over five floors in the heart of Dubai’s financial centre. And the private member’s club’s offerings go well beyond quenching thirst, with a select combination of fine dining, bars, cultural and artistic programmes and meeting spots designed to nourish body, mind and spirit, in all aspects. Attracting a privileged and eclectic membership of entrepreneurs, artists, thinkers and leaders, The Arts Club Dubai is a place for connecting with others, no matter their walk of life.

“We wanted to build a place that provides connection, but is also a space that feels secluded and private, designed for like-minded people,” says Ajaz Sheikh, CEO of The Arts Club Dubai. “Dubai’s appeal to international visitors can be both positive and negative as the city can get very busy at times and I think our members appreciate knowing that their club remains a constant haven at the heart of what is a very busy city.

“We have lounges, a rooftop, seven bars and private spaces — if you

“We wanted to build a place that provides connection, but is also a space that feels secluded and private, designed for like-minded people”

want to be seen, you can be, and if you want to be private, you can too. We have high energy restaurants, slow dining restaurants, not forgetting our two cigar spaces that are very popular as they provide another meeting point for people with interests in common. Our strategy is very much focused on our members, offering experiences, concepts and spaces for them to feel at home in the club, but also to enjoy some of the city’s best art, culture, and events, all of which helps to create the inimitable community and value proposition of membership at The Arts Club Dubai,” he adds.

As the Club’s name suggests, art is at the very heart of its raison d’être and the lush collection of regional and international contemporary pieces and exhibitions that adorns its vast space is the perfect demonstration of this support for creativity. While the Club’s per-

Top Reception Bottom Brasserie Lounge Facing page, clockwise from top right: Library; Rooftop

Lounge; Boudoir; Staircase Lobby

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Ajaz Sheikh CEO of The Arts Club Dubai

manent collection continues to grow organically,

“As part of our cultural programme we invited

a programme of solo shows and group exhibitions

Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi into the club to

in a wide variety of mediums and styles is designed

host a talk on vintage watches from the ‘70s,” says

to broaden the horizons of members’ knowledge of

Ajaz. “He gave a presentation on the industry at

the arts, whether they’re experts or absolute begin-

that time as well as the aesthetic and he brought

ners. Expert-guided tours of galleries and events

some wonderful watches from his family collec-

such as Art Dubai also provide opportunities for

tion. You can hear the full talk on our podcast.”

members to engage with the artistic community beyond the Club’s walls.

Running the full gamut from breakfast to nightcaps in the wee small hours, The Arts Club Dubai

The Art Club Dubai’s concept of art isn’t merely

caters for its membership in spectacular fashion.

limited to what’s hanging on the walls — indeed, a

Charmingly seasonal Italian fare, all-day Mediter-

healthy programme of cultural and entertainment

ranean dining, a hip Nikkei concept and a clas-

events keeps the social calendar fresh, whatever

sic ‘club menu’ in the members’ lounges are all

members’ interests. From business panel discus-

accounted for, while rooftop cigar lounge Oscuro

sions and cigar festivals to DJ sets, the possibilities

neighbours nightclub Vega, all surrounded by an

are endless... Especially for watch lovers.

outdoor, cabana-dotted terrace. 

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“It’s been a fantastic journey from pre-opening to more than two years of operation,” says Ajaz. “The global pandemic is definitely something we hadn’t factored into our plans, which had some impact on the way in which we could implement programming for our members and the many guidelines we had to adhere to in order to safeguard our members and the community, so it is wonderful to now witness the club in full swing. We connect people through everything we do, from our restaurants and bars, our cultural programme, our music programme, not to mention the relationships and friendships that we’ve seen flourish during this time as members have made new connections with each other.”

It’s an intimate club to be part of — and it sounds as though its members really are getting the very best out of life in Dubai’s buzzing metropolis.

Top Oscuro Middle left Vega Middle right Watches of the ‘70s Bottom Sandhurst

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Ajaz Sheikh; Jaeger-

LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire; vintage Omega SeaMaster; MoonSwatch Bioceramic Mission to the Moon; A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moonphase

The Arts Club Dubai ICD Brookfield Place - DIFC Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire

Omega Vintage SeaMaster

A.Lange & Sohne Grand Lange 1 Moonphase

Omega x Swatch Mission to the Moon

RACHEL SILVESTRI

Ajaz Sheikh

CEO, The Arts Club Dubai It is said that a timepiece is a perfect conversation

I have a vintage Omega SeaMaster that was passed on to me

starter — what would you ask someone about their

by my grandfather that I hold particularly dear and that I

watch to start a conversation?

spent several years saving for when I was younger, in order

Paying someone a compliment is usually a great way to get

to undertake some of the necessary restorations to bring the

a conversation going. I like to pay attention to details so I

piece back to its former glory.

would ask someone about the watch they’re wearing, especially if it’s a watch that I’m not familiar with or that is not

What are your favourite conversation topics?

well recognised, in which case I will go out of my way to find

I’m very interested in current affairs and am an avid con-

out more.

sumer of the news so I’m often discussing something that I’ve heard or read about on my way into work. I’m also a

Can you share a special memory that relates to ‘time’?

huge fan of cars and Formula 1 and I like to race in my spare

As I get older, I’ve noticed that time is something that is

time — not to mention my interest in food and drink.

becoming more precious as I’m conscious of how finite it is, especially now that I have two young children in my life. I’m

Do you have your eye on any new watches that you might

constantly trying to find the best way to manage my time as

consider adding to your collection?

I work on my career, all the while continuing to be present

Having said that I’m mainly a fan of mechanical watches,

for my family.

I’ve been contemplating adding one of the MoonSwatch Bioceramics to my collection; I really like the Mission to the

What’s your favourite way to pass the time?

Moon. From a wish list perspective, I’ve been admiring the

With my family. When the weekend comes I try to switch

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1R; I spotted it a few years ago

off, spending time with either immediate or extended fam-

and it was love at first sight.

ily. We cook at home — I really enjoy cooking with my kids — or we go out to the beach if weather permits.

I’ve also coveted the JLC Duomètre Quantième Lunaire for a very long time — it’s a piece that encapsulates multiple high level complications, balanced with exquisite aesthetic.

What kind of watches do you like, or collect, and do you

I also have my eye on A. Lange & Söhne as a Maison — their

have a watch with particular meaning to you personally?

timepieces have a classic look that belies the mechanical

With the exception of a couple of digital watches, my col-

mastery they contain. If I had to pick one, it would be the

lection is entirely composed of watches that have in-house

Grand Lange 1 Moonphase; I’m missing a moon phase com-

mechanical movements as I really value the craftsmanship

plication in my collection, and this would serve as a very

and mastery that goes into creating mechanical timepieces.

pleasing addition.

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Decoding RACHEL SILVESTRI

Vacheron Constantin Self-winding satisfaction in a sleek package Heritage bursts from this regional collaboration between Vacheron Constantin and Mr Porter — a match made in green heaven.

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E

ven the name of the collection of timepieces

edition run of just 80 pieces — 50 of the 40mm and 30 of

says it best — Patrimony. As one of watch-

the 36.5mm — is quite the scoop.

making’s most historic Maisons, Vacheron

“Vacheron Constantin is one of the most celebrated

Constantin is an expert player when it comes to

Swiss watchmakers and we are honoured to collaborate

the heritage game. Its longevity is its currency, not only

with them on two elegant and exclusive Middle East

ensuring a rich mine of savoir faire passed on and built

edition timepieces,” says Dominic Weir, managing

on from generation to generation, but also cementing its

director of fine watches and jewellery for Net-A-Porter

place as one of watchmaking’s ‘holy trinity’ – a trio not

and Mr Porter. “We are excited to offer this watch in a

to be trifled with. And it is this patrimony, this inheri-

very limited run for local customers who will appreciate

tance, which makes it such a safe pair of hands when it

its bespoke design which speaks to the traditions and

comes to immortalising the heritage of others, too.

tastes of this region in a vibrant and stylish way.”

In a first-time collaboration with a retailer on a Middle East exclusive timepiece, Vacheron Constan-

So are they worth the hype? GMT GCC takes a closer look into the heart of a potential modern classic

tin has taken up with Mr Porter and Net-A-Porter on a pair of region-specific timepieces. An expansion of the Patrimony collection, this elegant and contemporary pair marks a new chapter in the manufacture’s rela-

Body

tionship with the GCC.

A masterclass in subtle elegance, there’s a reason why the

“Vacheron Constantin is honoured to dedicate a new

Patrimony collection, in its deliberate minimalism, is so

timeless signature of the Patrimony collection to our

enduring. The 18 carat white gold case, highly polished

clients in the Middle East, celebrating the long-stan-

and flowing gracefully into a pair of slim lugs, carries a

ding relationship between the Maison and the region

breezy, 1950s-style elegance that’s just the opposite of

that has existed since the very beginning of the 19th

try-hard. A transparent caseback adds interest for the

century,” says Christophe Ramel, Middle East brand

connoisseur, with the 40mm version making the most

director at Vacheron Constantin.

of its bezel’s uninterrupted high polish, and the 36.5mm

The collaboration is proving valuable for the retail partners too. After all, claiming exclusivity on a limited

enjoying the sparkle of 69 brilliant-cut diamonds — and one on the crown for good measure.

But there’s yet one more layer of meaning here — the barely-there engraved rail circling this timepiece’s bezel recalls the very jewel in Vacheron Constantin’s crown: the 1755 pocket watch held in its heritage collection, bearing the signature J.M. Vacheron on its movement. It’s the only known watch identifying the Maison’s founder Jean-Marc Vacheron by his first name, and the earliest example of his craftsmanship. And it, too, is perfectly circular with a subtly ringed bezel.

As is often the case with such pronounced simplicity, there is so much more than meets the eye. 

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69

Heart

Features

As with every timepiece that leaves the Vacheron Constantin manu-

When it comes to the Patrimony collection, simplicity

facture, these timepieces bear the Poinçon de Genève — the Geneva

is key — even in its adornments. In a subtle nod to the

Seal — which, since 1886, has stood as a symbol of excellence in

Arabian Gulf’s maritime history, the appliqué hour

watchmaking, right down to the tiniest component of each time-

markers are separated by a dainty white dotted minute

piece’s movement. Machining marks are removed, and instead

track, their form and sheen reminiscent of the pearls

intricate polishing adorns the surfaces, while any holes are bevelled

which once sustained the region’s economy. And then

to smooth perfection. The proprietary Vacheron Constantin calibre

there’s the date window — in a first for the collection,

2450 Q6 is the very essence of what the Poinçon de Genève aims to

the date numbers appear in Arabic, a pleasingly familiar

achieve. It may be a fairly standard self-winding hour, minute,

touch for anyone who makes the Peninsula their home.

central seconds and date window movement, but it’s executed with

As for the deep, velvety green of the sunburst dial and

such outstanding finesse that a transparent caseback is simply a

matching alligator strap, it’s yet another first for the col-

must. The 22 carat gold openworked oscillating weight, inspired by

lection: rich, earthy and soothing to the eye.

the Maltese cross, is so stunning that it would be a crime to let this level of craftsmanship lie undiscovered.

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Soul To those with only a passing knowledge of the Middle East, it’s a common misconception that the region is all about excess. And with the advent of Netflix show Dubai Bling as well as a reputation for seven-star luxe and goldleaf burgers, it’s understandable. But those with a more intimate relationship with the Gulf can appreciate the subtle, understated beauty that flourishes beneath the surface: an affection for heritage, history and craftsmanship that has always been a part of local culture. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Middle East Limited Edition may not be full of bells and whistles — but it doesn’t need to be. Like a night spent under the desert stars, or a dive into the waves of the Arabian Gulf, its beauty is in its simplicity. And that’s heritage which really will be passed down to the next generation.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Middle

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Middle

East Limited Edition – 40mm

East Limited Edition – 36.5mm

Case: 18 carat white gold, transparent case back Size:

Case: 18 carat white gold set with 68 diamonds, diamond

40mm, 8.55mm thick Movement: Self-winding Vache-

set crown, transparent case back Size: 36.5mm, 9.15mm

ron Constantin manufacture calibre 2450 Q6/3 with

thick Movement: Self-winding Vacheron Constan-

40-hour power reserve, 28,800 VPH Functions: Hours,

tin manufacture calibre 2450 Q6/3 with 40-hour power

minutes, central seconds, date Dial: Green sunburst

reserve, 28,800 VPH Functions: Hours, minutes, central

finish, convex external zone with ‘pearl’ minute track

seconds, date Dial: Green sunburst finish, convex exter-

Strap: Green alligator leather with 18 carat white gold

nal zone with ‘pearl’ minute track Strap: Green alligator

ardillon buckle

leather with 18 carat white gold ardillon buckle

Limited series of 50

Limited series of 30

Price: Dhs110,000

Price: Dhs132,752

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71

Art RACHEL SILVESTRI

Blooming marvellous In a flamboyant expression of the themes most dear to its heart, storied Parisian jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels has brought a message of love and beauty to the heart of Saudi Arabia — and the Kingdom has never been more ready to receive it.

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T

he best kind of growth happens when all the neces-

Arts. These talks surround themes pertinent to the historic

sary factors are present for it to last: a strong and

jeweller’s oeuvre, from appreciation of flora in artistic jewel-

nourishing foundation, care and loving attention,

lery to the secrets of sentimental jewels. A truly interactive

and — most importantly — the patience to let it all

experience, there’s much to learn from a visit to this one-of-

come together.

a-kind exhibition.

This was the principle behind Van Cleef & Arpels’s land-

Time, Nature, Love’s curator, Italian jewellery scholar and

mark Time, Nature, Love exhibition at the National Museum

expert Alba Cappellieri, is no stranger to the finer points of

of Saudi Arabia, a celebration not just of the Parisian haute

fine jewellery. She is a professor of jewellery and fashion

joailler’s achievements but also, in parallel, of how very far the

accessory design at the Politecnico di Milano, in the midst of

Kingdom’s dedication to artistry has come.

Italy’s fashion heartland, where she leads the International

With doors flinging wide open to the public in Riyadh last

Master in Fashion Accessories Design. She also heads up the

January, this immersive experience takes visitors on a jour-

Master of Brand and Product Management at the Milano

ney to the unique beauty of Van Cleef & Arpels’s whimsical

Fashion Institute, as well as being the director of the Museo

world, continuing to wow crowds until 15 April — at least.

del Gioiello Vicenza, Italy’s only museum dedicated entirely

A demonstration of the Kingdom’s support for fine arts, the

to jewellery. The perfect person, then, to tell the story of Van

prestigious museum venue plays host to a dynamic exhibi-

Cleef & Arpels in a dynamic and compelling way.

tion of more than 280 of Van Cleef & Arpels’s most distinctive

GMT GCC sat with her to find out more about her curation

creations, dating from the founding of the Maison in 1906

process and how working with designer Johanna Grawun-

right up to the present day, as well as a whole host of semi-

der’s unique take on an exhibition space propelled the instal-

nars, or ‘conversations’, guided by L’ECOLE School of Jewellery

lation into a true flight of fantasy... 

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GMT GCC: Time, Nature, Love – three themes perfectly captur-

How does your curation process look, when approaching an

ing so many of Van Cleef & Arpels’s motifs, features and his-

exhibition such as Time, Nature, Love?

tory. How did you decide on these sections?

For me, curation is a design practice. Just like designing a prod-

Alba: My idea of curation is like designing a product or writing

uct, the best design is based on a powerful story and for this rea-

a book, you need to create a powerful innovative story mixing

son, for me, curating is based on the intersection between sto-

the materiality of the artworks with the immateriality of the

rytelling and the narrative qualities of the artworks. Creations

Maison’s heritage and legacy. Enlightening and interpreting

can design stories, not just the ones intrinsic to their materials,

the brand’s glorious past with a contemporary perspective is my

gemstones or craftsmanship, but rather their semantic and con-

objective. This is the reason why I selected time, nature and love

textual characteristics. Curation is a way to innovate.

for Van Cleef & Arpels. They are the most important contemporary values and also very important values for the Maison.

Does working with a Maison as historic as Van Cleef & Arpels throw up any particular advantages, or challenges? How do

The Van Cleef & Arpels archives simply teem with incredible

you work with these particularities to your benefit?

creations. Does it make your job more difficult when you’re

Working for Van Cleef & Arpels exceeded my expectations by far.

so spoilt for choice?

It is a great Maison, with an extraordinary story and is guided

Definitely not. The extraordinary Van Cleef & Arpels patrimonial

by visionary and very talented people. I’ve learned a lot working

collection is a dream for any curator, with its great variety and

with them and this has been a privilege.

deep knowledge.

On a personal note, how did it feel to curate this particularly The pieces are displayed so beautifully in Johanna Grawun-

special exhibition?

der’s immersive space. How did your work and hers inter-

I feel extremely lucky and grateful. This exhibition changed my

twine? Did you work independently and make your selection

perspective forever.

in advance of seeing her design, or was there some give and take within both your processes?

What does Van Cleef & Arpels mean to you, not just as a pro-

Johanna’s design is one of the best scenographies I have ever

fessional, but also as a jewellery lover?

seen. We worked together in a very harmonious and collaborative

Van Cleef & Arpels is a model for everyone from different perspec-

way. We started from the concept and with the unique support

tives: the creations, the innovations, the design, the craftsman-

of [Van Cleef & Arpels director of patrimony and exhibitions] Lise

ship, the history, and after this exhibition for me they are also a

MacDonald, we created something unique.

model for the human relationship.

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75

Test Bench CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Dual Time

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I

ts arrival at the editorial office of your favorite

EXTERIOR

magazine did not go unnoticed. As soon as it

For once, the name of the watch clearly defines it. Heri-

was unpacked, the Heritage Dual Time singu-

tage tells us about the design inspiration, which also

larly enthused the people privileged to be pres-

lays claim to a modern character. The steel case mea-

ent at what almost amounted to a ceremony.

sures 42mm in diameter. It is fluid. It looks simple and

We all know the importance of a first impression and

it is harmoniously balanced. The size and positioning

we can safely state that the teams of the ‘Schaffhausen-

of the lugs are certainly one of the keys to this suc-

based watchmaker’ proved able to unite the opinions,

cess. The caseband is beadblasted in four symmetrically

tastes and sensibilities of each individual, resulting in a

arranged zones. It is impossible not to mention the

unanimously positive verdict. The brand’s smoked dials

dial when talking about a Moser: the emblematic fumé

are known to exercise a special magic charm that we

dials are unanimously appreciated and this burgundy

will try to resist in order to take you to the heart of this

colour surprises as much as it charms. Depending on

watch with our objectivity intact.

the angle of the light, but also on its temperature (type

The object of this Test Bench is all the more interest-

and intensity of light), the shade of the dial will vary

ing, as we see it, in that by arriving on the market with

significantly, as will the contrast of the smoked effect.

a steel watch positioned at a Dhs78,500 price point, H.

We like the elegance of the brand’s signature delicately

Moser & Cie. is going head-to-head with some univer-

engraved before the lacquering of the dial. The Arabic

sally known icons and best-sellers.

numerals are made of luminescent ceramic impregnated with Super-LumiNova — a patented process that gives more intensity and autonomy and also enables the vertical sides of the numerals to be lit up to ensure breathtaking legibility and aesthetics. The hands are on the same level as the hour markers and will never let you down. 

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77

MOVEMENT First of all, it is worth recalling that H. Moser & Cie. is one of the very few brands to produce its own dials, but also, and above all, the entire range of its movement components.

The Caliber HMC 809 driving this Heritage Dual Time is selfwinding. The automatic mechanism features a bidirectional pawlwinding system known for its efficiency and reliability that ensures 72 hours of power reserve for a frequency of 21,600 vph. The complications driving a central dual-time function and the date at six o’clock are housed in a dedicated module. The date is thus clearly visible directly under the dial. It should be noted that the ergonomics and the thinness of the module do not detract from the balance and the aesthetics of the watch. Fast adjustments of the dual-time and date indications are done very intelligently and simultaneously via the crown in its intermediate position. Above and beyond impeccable development, Caliber HMC809 features finishes that we would rate as superior for the segment and certainly exemplary.

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TESTS The function after which the watch is named is beautifully executed. Its legibility is perfect and it is simple and reliable to use.

Like the date, it can be adjusted without impacting the minutes and seconds. The size of the crown is to be commended both for its ergonomics and for the final touch it brings to the case design. As far as the base of the movement is concerned, its automatic winding is smooth and fast. The choice of the frequency-power reserve ratio offers a level of timekeeping precision doubtless optimized by the in-house mastery of the sensitive balance-and-spring tandem.

This is confirmed by the measurements, showing closely grouped rates and controlled amplitudes.

POSITIONS MEASUREMENTS 0Hrs: Fully wound

Rate (sec/day) Amplitude

287

294

243

257

247

242

24Hrs later

Rate (sec/day)

0.0

0.6

2.9

2.3

3.1

1.7

Amplitude

240

242

221

222

215

219

CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

Watchmaker

0.2

1.3

2.5

3.1

5.2

3.1

Whether or not one takes its competitors

technology, because the Schaffhausen technicians

into consideration, this Heritage Dual Time

are also capable of being innovative when neces-

excels in all areas and well beyond the first very

sary, as well as wisely opting for proven and reco-

good impression it made on us. While all too often

gnised solutions where appropriate. Just as with

brandished as an unconvincing marketing tool,

an ideal son-in-law, we would love to find a flaw

the combination of tradition and modernism is in

in this Heritage Dual Time. The hours and the days

this instance a paragon of style and (good) taste.

go by and we are still searching for one, while the

This is true not only for the design, but also for the

magic charm remains as strong as ever.

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79

EDITORS’ PICKS

Sélection Property BRICE LECHEVALIER RACHEL SILVESTRI

Crowning moment Is this really the world’s best hotel? GMT GCC takes a walk through Atlantis The Royal, and discovers how the majestic property is living up to its regal moniker.

A

tlantis The Royal has just opened

tions of the Atlantis Dubai resorts, speaking

in January 2020, overseeing Atlantis, The

— and it’s global news. But as

just seven days after the first guests arrived

Palm, Atlantis Aquaventure and the pre-

the buzz surrounding the bom-

at Atlantis The Royal. “Their experiences

opening of Atlantis The Royal. But then —

bastic opening, replete with

have been so wonderful that they cannot

as we all know — everything changed. So

royalty both traditional and celebrity (in the

find fault with anything. So that’s kudos

how did Covid impact his project?

form of Kendall Jenner and the inimitable

to the team — it’s quite an impressive feat

“Dubai came back relatively strong and

Beyoncé Knowles), begins to die down, it’s

to pull that level of service off right after

relatively quickly,” says Tom. “And as prob-

time to get to business as usual. And things

opening. And we are very fortunate to have

ably the only destination in the world where

are going swimmingly.

a phenomenal team that makes it happen —

the Covid crisis was handled in quite an

every single day.”

amazing way, I felt fortunate to live here

“The comment we have consistently

80

received over the past week is that guests

A very humble statement from the man

and to be working here during that time.

cannot believe that we have only just

who took this resort from construction to

From an operator point of view, we took

opened,” shares Tom Roelens, general

operation, and through a global pandemic

the opportunity to come out of this in a

manager and senior vice president, opera-

to boot. Tom took the reins of Atlantis Dubai

much better way. At Atlantis, The Palm we

GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES

renovated all of our conference facilities,

pens that they’re all in this collection here

we redid the Saffron restaurant, we did

at Atlantis, whether that’s Atlantis, The

upgrades to our Hakkasan restaurant, we

Palm or Atlantis The Royal and that’s quite

opened El Fuego, our new South American

unique. And then translating that to the

concept that was a result of the planning

Aquaventure waterpark, we built out the

that took place during that time. And we

tower and we now have over 100 slides and

continued to innovate and ensure that by

attractions, becoming the largest water-

the time we kind of came out of this, that

park in the world. We also went on a hiring

we would come out stronger.

spree to ensure that we could get the best in

“Nobu’s move to the top floors of Atlan-

the business for Atlantis The Royal. When

tis, The Palm would be another example.

no one was hiring, we were and so by the

Now we have a collection of over 50 restau-

time everybody else woke up and started

rants, and each of them could be considered

panicking about finding people, they were

freestanding restaurants. It just so hap-

already here!” 

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A truly gutsy move on Tom’s behalf — after

the largest collection of celebrity chefs in one

all, nobody knew when the pandemic would

place, anywhere on the planet. Then there’s

end, and somebody has to pay to keep all those

the wellness component with Awaken Spa

staff on board — but one that worked in his

and the AEON Clinic, and you have the enter-

favour and has ensured that all the post-open-

tainment side, whether that’s from all the

ing plaudits keep rolling in. So what about all

water features, and the fountain shows, and

those ‘best hotel in Dubai’ and, latterly, ‘best

the many surprising and delightful moments

hotel in the world’ comments? Does Tom place

around the resort.

much stock in them?

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“It’s a one-of-a-kind resort, there’s nothing

“Well, I think it’s up to the guests to make

like it anywhere else in the world, so we’ve

that decision,” he laughs. “I think ultimately,

been given the freedom to do things that are

it’s a wonderful and one-of-a-kind property

a bit more unique. We worked with Graff, for

from an architectural point of view. And from

example, to launch an exclusive amenity pro-

a restaurant point of view, where we now have

gramme. And again, there’s something that

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“You’re only as good as the last breakfast served. So we will keep listening to what the guests tell us.”

doesn’t exist anywhere else. We’re pushing

“Every room that we make available is sold,

the boundaries in terms of what the guests

so we certainly are seeing great interest,” says

can experience. Of course, we’ve been given

Tom. “Our Signature Suites are seeing phe-

all of the tools to be successful from a resort

nomenal interest, but really, there’s nothing

point of view. But then it’s also about the

like it anywhere else. In our Sky Pool Villas

intuitive service. Ultimately, that’s really

we’ve taken the concept of a villa and placed

what it’s about and so really playing into that

that in a vertical way as part of the hotel’s tow-

is key. And that’s really our big focus, every

ers. You have full privacy, phenomenal views

minute of the day at the moment.”

over the skyline of Dubai, or over the Gulf, and

Learning about each and every guest is a tall

you have terraces of up to 150 square metres,

order, especially in a property of 795 rooms.

with pools that are over the cantilever areas of

But Tom is confident in his team’s level of per-

the resort. You feel like you’re floating in the

sonal service, elevating the spectacular expe-

sky. These are products that the world hasn’t

rience of staying in one of the resort’s suites.

seen yet.”

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“It’s a one-of-a-kind resort, there’s nothing like it anywhere else in the world, so we’ve been given the freedom to do things that are a bit more unique.”

And if anyone knows about new develop-

extraordinary. And that journey continues. The

ments, it’s Tom. Earlier in his incredibly inter-

launch of Atlantis The Royal is a prime example

national career, he worked in Dubai’s first five-

of that exact kind of drive for excellence.”

star hotel in the mid-90s — “when Sheikh Zayed

So now that it’s all done and dusted, is it time

Road was just two lanes going to Abu Dhabi,”

for Tom to sit back, relax and enjoy the fruits of

he chuckles — so he’s one of the few hoteliers to

his labours? Perhaps not quite...

have seen the regional industry’s development from the very beginning.

Atlantis The Royal Crescent Road - Palm Jumeirah - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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“It’s a wonderful moment and a moment of pride for the team,” he smiles. “But you know

“If there’s one place in the world that has

what? You’re only as good as the last breakfast

seen this growth as a destination, that’s truly

served. So we will keep listening to what the

and consistently challenging itself to be better,

guests tell us.”

to improve, to grow and develop and push the boundaries, it’s Dubai,” Tom says. “That’s quite

And that attitude? That’s what ensures the real royal treatment.

On my watch RACHEL SILVESTRI

Tom Roelens

General Manager and SVP, operations — Atlantis Dubai Would you consider yourself a watch fan?

I would say yes. And my wife is the one that makes sure that the journey is somewhat tempered!

When did you first become aware of watches and watchmaking?

My very first watch was actually a gift from my great uncle. He found a golden watch on the tram railway tracks in the city of Antwerp when he was just a young boy and wore it his whole life. He gave it to me when I was in my early teens and so it’s a watch that I treasure dearly. It’s a beautiful watch. And I think that was kind of my first exposure to timepieces and it certainly brought my attention to that world.

What an amazing story! It’s a hand wound, I imagine?

Yes exactly — it’s a beautiful, beautiful watch. It’s one of those irreplaceable family pieces and it was handed to me, which is

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph

Tag Heuer Monaco

quite special. Then there’s the emotional connection — I was a big admirer of my uncle, and it’s a symbol of that bond.

Having opened Atlantis The Royal must be a huge personal milestone in your career. Do you intend to reward yourself

But such a special watch isn’t something you could wear every

with a nice gift?

day. What’s your day to day wrist style?

The gift of sleep is kind of what I’m going to give myself! I haven’t

I love Panerai as a brand, personally, and that’s really where my

slept much since last year. But there’s certainly some delayed shop-

attention typically sets. The one that I’m most proud of is a limited

ping opportunities that are in the works at the moment.

edition for the America’s Cup, which is quite unique.

And are there any particular brands that catch your eye, or are With the type of clientele that your properties attract, you

you quite a one-brand man?

must have some interesting wrists passing through your doors.

No, actually I have been watching a couple a couple of things. I have

Well certainly! Our guests are very discerning, and we see some gor-

been eyeing a Tag Heuer Monaco, and a couple of the Cartier Santos

geous watches around the resort. It’s definitely a passion of many

chronograph models. Patek Phillipe also has a couple of pieces that

of our guests.

I have my eye on, but, you know, I’m in the warming up process.

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Portfolio Jaquet Droz x Rolling Stones BRICE LECHEVALIER

I

n keeping with both its automata tradition and the new strategy of its CEO Alain Delamuraz, Jaquet Droz has created a series of 23 one-of-a-kind timepieces featuring the world of the Rolling Stones — one for each of the 23 albums recorded by the legendary rock band since 1971. For the first time, the instruments, stages and record covers are reproduced in the heart of an automaton interpreted in one-off versions. Its external disc spins up to eight times in a row, adorned with the albums that the collector himself will have selected for his unique timepiece, as well as personalising the gold rotor. Whether the exact shade of each instrument, the tweed finish of the amps, the pickguard of the guitars 0r the tolex of the speakers: each and every tiny detail is hand painted, including Mick Jagger's harmonica, intricately carved from a one millimetre gold block. Undoubtedly the most rock ‘n’ roll watch of the century.

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Within a 43mm red gold case, the artisans at Jaquet Droz have manually reproduced the Stones’ stage set to perfection. Portrayed from left to right are Ronnie Wood’s Stratocaster guitar in front of its amplifier stack, the minimalist drums of the late Charlie Watts, followed by more guitars from both Ronnie and Keith Richards.

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The guitars and their amps are individually handcrafted from an engraved and painted block of red gold. The cymbals are made of a gold disc shaped to reproduce the precise curvature.

The power reserve is indicated between eight and nine o’clock by a cam reproducing the articulated arm and stylus of a vinyl record player.

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Each collector will have their choice of album covers. They will be reproduced by hand by the Jaquet Droz artisans on a disc capable of rotating around the central stage on demand. The rotation lasts around 30 seconds and can be activated eight times in a row by means of the crown-integrated pusher at three o’clock.

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Icon JOLA CHUDY

Skull candy The Bell & Ross Cyber Skull Bronze is the latest phase in the brand’s love affair with this arresting symbol.

GMT GCC takes a deep dive into what makes this memento mori so appealing.

T

he skull is a motif whose symbolism has reverberated

tilage, the skull is a rich source of inspiration for creators,

through the ages — skulls have been part of humani-

makers and inventors.

ty’s language of art, culture, magic and ritual almost as long as our species has had them.

94

Watchmakers too, it seems, can’t resist a charismatic cranium. In the case of Bell & Ross, the fascination with the

From ancient civilisations drawing on skull imagery (and

eighth largest bone in our body has endured since 2009, when

often the skulls themselves) to 21st-century fashion designers

the company launched an entire collection in homage to this

borrowing from this 22-piece construction of bone and car-

most emblematic form.

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“This watch is a testament to the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking and incorporating modern technology and design into their creations.”

Let’s start with the most eye-catching aspect of this watch: the ‘cyber skull’. The Bell & Ross Cyber Skull Bronze features a bronze skull case, which is a nod to the brand’s heritage in creating high-quality, reliable instruments for aviation and military use.

The bronze used for the case has been treated to develop a unique patina, ensuring that no two watches will look exactly the same.

The skull itself is a modern interpretation of the classic skull symbol, also often associated with pirates and the occult. Arrr, indeed.

A symbol of death and rebirth, the skull has come to represent a wide range of ideas, from power and mortality to protection and good luck. But this watch is not just a statement piece talisman. It is also a highly functional timepiece, equipped with the BR-CAL.210 calibre. This movement is a 100 per cent manufacturer mechanism,

BR 01 CYBER SKULL BRONZE, 46 MM, Limited edition of 500 pieces MOVEMENT: BR-CAL.210. Manufacture. Hand-wound mechanical.

its manual winding activating an automaton element. By turning

FUNCTIONS: Hours and minutes. Moving skull jawbone when wound

the crown, the jaw of the skull comes alive and seems to almost

by hand. CASE: 45 mm x 46.7 mm. 13.70 mm thick. Satin-finished and

sneer — the Cyber Skull laughing in the face of death itself.

polished CuSn8 bronze. Sapphire and CuAI7Si2 bronze case back. DIAL:

The Skull family is the first Bell & Ross watch to feature an auto-

Skeletonised. Rose gold-plated brass skull (or bronze-coloured skull). Gilt metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands.

maton, a complication originating from the mechanisms that

Balance at 12 o’clock. CRYSTAL: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating

appeared in Europe in the 14th century. On the Cyber Skull Bronze,

WATER-RESISTANCE: 50 metres. STRAP: Black rubber. BUCKLE: Pin.

the skull is inserted between two sapphire crystal plates as if floa-

Satin-finished and polished CuAI7Si2 bronze

ting in the centre of the case, which itself evokes the angular fuselage of a stealth aircraft, invisible to radar. 

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“Time is often associated with mortality and the idea that life is fleeting, and the skull has been used as a symbol of death and the transience of existence.”

The BR-CAL.210 calibre is cleverly concealed behind the

of the importance of living life to the fullest and making

skull. Plates and bridges follow the shape of the skull and

the most of every moment. Whether viewed as a symbol

extend under the four femurs. Only a few interesting

of death or of life, the skull remains an enduring and

technical parts remain visible, in particular certain gear

powerful icon that captivates the human imagination.

trains and the spiral balance wheel. This element, loca-

One of the most famous examples of skulls in fashion

ted at 12 o’clock, symbolises the brain of this skull, full

is the skull print scarf designed by Alexander McQueen.

of life. In this sense, the skull serves as a reminder of the

This iconic piece of fashion history has been worn by

inevitability of death and the preciousness of life.

celebrities and style icons alike, becoming synonymous

However, the skull also represents a symbol of resi-

with McQueen’s edgy, rebellious aesthetic. In addition to

lience, strength, and survival. Despite its association

their use in fashion and accessories, skulls have also been

with death, it remains a symbol of life’s enduring spirit.

featured in luxury goods and homeware, such as skull-

In this sense, it’s a testament to the power of life, and

shaped candlesticks, vases, and even furniture. This use

the timeless cycle of birth, death and rebirth that is the

of skulls in luxury design highlights their versatility as

foundation of the human experience.

a symbol and their ability to add a touch of dark, gothic

In the realm of philosophy, the skull has been used as

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glamour to any space.

a metaphor for the idea that all things are fleeting and

Today, the new Cyber Skull Bronze takes up the square

that our time on earth is limited, acting as a reminder

case with sharp edges and bevelled corners in a bronze

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version. The golden skull gives a very rock ‘n’ roll look to this timepiece, which we could easily imagine on the wrist of a rock star.

While skulls have been used in fashion and luxury for many years, they continue to hold a powerful, if sometimes controversial, meaning. For some, the skull is a symbol of death and the macabre, while for others it represents power, strength, and the defiance of societal norms.

Regardless of the interpretation, one thing is clear: the skull remains a timeless and enduring symbol that continues to inspire designers and captivate audiences in the world of fashion and luxury. From ancient civilizations to contemporary designers, the skull has maintained its place in the annals of history as a powerful and enduring symbol of mortality, power, and rebellion.

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My time RACHEL SILVESTRI

Out of the box

It’s a truly global idea that’s taken haute horlogerie online and brought fine timepieces into people’s phones and living rooms the world over. GMT GCC catches up with WatchBox co-founder Justin Reis to find out what’s next for the company and why the Middle East continues to play such an important role in its web of luxury.

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S

o simple, yet so effective. When

expand into a truly international operation.

Tay Liam Wee, Danny Govberg and

With five physical boutiques in North Amer-

personal touch is still of great importance both to WatchBox’s founders and their cli-

Justin Reis got together to launch

ica, three in Asia, two in Switzerland and

ents alike.

WatchBox in 2017, to them, the gap

two in the Middle East — Dubai and Riyadh

“While our website represents an impor-

in the market they intended to fill was clear.

— there’s no shortage of places for globe-

tant segment of our business, the majority

“We saw a tremendous opportunity to

trotting watch lovers to have an in-person

of our sales today actually take place over the

elevate the pre-owned luxury watch space

pow-wow. Their online concept joins the

phone,” elaborates Justin. “We use our web-

across the world’s major watch markets,

dots by bringing their global inventory to

site and digital marketing strategies to help

and seeing this vision come to life in a sig-

one place, which is also the company’s real

drive leads, and then build relationships

nificant way has been an outstanding expe-

USP — they own every watch they sell and,

with our clients and support their collecting

rience,” says Reis, speaking in Dubai while

as one of the biggest buyers of pre-owned

behaviours over the phone and in-person —

showing

community

luxury timepieces in the world, their exper-

plus through educational initiatives such as

adventure, an exhibition of fine watchmak-

tise and passion for quality and authenticity

our library of thousands of hands-on video

ing by J.P. Journe and De Bethune. “I was

is unmatched.

reviews. Consumer behaviour may be shift-

WatchBox’s

latest

introduced to the watch industry through

A team of Swiss-trained watchmakers,

ing, but our business model is focusing that

my friend and fellow WatchBox co-founder

technicians and refinishers put each and

much more on how we can forge stronger

Tay Liam Wee, a close friend from Singapore

every timepiece thorough a rigorous process

and more personal relationships with all of

and a great mentor to me. He introduced me

of assessment and manufacture-standard

our collectors.”

to Danny Govberg, who he had more than a

servicing before it’s presented for sale. In

With community being such an impor-

25 year relationship with, and together the

addition, every watch carries a two-year

tant part of WatchBox’s strategy, GMT GCC

three of us launched WatchBox.”

WatchBox guarantee.

sat down with Justin to get a fuller under-

It was this coming together of like-

But it’s not just the online model that’s

minded friends that allowed WatchBox to

responsible for the company’s success — the

standing of just what they are planning to do next:

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99

RACHEL SILVESTRI

Justin Reis

Co-founder, WatchBox GMT GCC: Your business is truly a worldwide

Through our joint venture with the Seddiqi fam-

phenomenon — how does the Middle East fit into

ily, WatchBox Middle East has developed into an

WatchBox’s global community?

important pillar of our business. We’ve established

JUSTIN REIS: Our expansion strategy for WatchBox

relationships with collectors across the region,

targets regions with both a strong growth forecast

curated a dynamic inventory to meet the tastes of

for the luxury watch segment and a passionate com-

the local market, and expanded our presence to now

munity of collectors. The Middle East has consis-

include our storefront and private buying office in

tently been within the top markets for our category,

Dubai, as well as a location in Riyadh. We look for-

and long-established retailers like Ahmed Seddiqi &

ward to continuing to build the WatchBox commu-

Sons have done a remarkable job in building demand

nity across the region, appealing to a wider audience

and consumer interest in collectible watches.

of collectors and enthusiasts new to the space.

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Why have you chosen Dubai to present your F.P.

We recognise a growing appetite in the region for elite

Journe and DeBethune exhibition?

independent watchmaking, a category that is appreci-

Our retrospective exhibition is truly a global — and

ated and shared by a robust community of collectors.

shared — experience for the WatchBox community,

There’s a special sentiment across the watch community

which we’re thrilled to bring to collectors in the region.

built around knowledge exchange, making experiences

We launched the travelling exhibition in Zurich and

like our retrospective exhibition particularly in tune

Geneva in the autumn, hosted a series of events in Sin-

with the region.

gapore, Shanghai and Hong Kong in January, and will present the exhibition in New York and Los Angeles next

The Middle East has traditionally tended toward

month. Much of what connects our global ecosystem

‘personal’ or ‘in-person’ when it comes to both busi-

takes place remotely or digitally, and hosting this as a

ness and retail. Have times changed? Are Middle

tangible experience is really quite special.

Eastern collectors ready to buy online?

The exhibition celebrates collections from the last 20

Since we founded WatchBox, establishing trust across

years, presenting watches alongside that which came

our community has been of paramount importance.

before and that which follows in the collection lineage.

As we expand the WatchBox footprint, being closer to

The context afforded is an invaluable opportunity for

our community in order to deliver the highest quality

education, scholarship and shared enjoyment.

service and further relationships — through collector and community events, educational opportunities, special

How does the Middle Eastern buyer differ from the

experiences — is greatly important. Once a baseline of

rest of the world?

trust is established, we are able to support our commu-

There’s a phenomenal interest in high-end, collectible

nity through whatever means of communication is most

watches amongst our Middle Eastern collector commu-

convenient to them.

nity, with a strong baseline watch knowledge and appreciation for brands steeped in tradition and heritage.

How important is community to what WatchBox

Exclusivity, quality, and craftsmanship are important

does? What are you doing to foster this?

considerations — and collectors veer towards uniquely

Our community is at the heart of everything we do;

complicated yet classical aesthetics.

sharing in our clients’ collecting journeys, offering

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101

streamlined services, educational tools, an incredible

I’ve always admired and appreciated luxury watches, but

inventory, and bringing to life personal, high-touch

this level of passion — for the business of watches, the

experiences. For the last three years, we have been

people who collect them, and the mechanical instru-

dedicated to delivering access to both product and

ments themselves — came from completely immersing

educational information as we built and strengthened

myself in the sector. Watch collecting isn’t just looking

relationships across the global WatchBox community.

for your next watch. Watch collecting is reading about

Now that the world has reopened, our focus shifts to

watches, learning about watches, understanding the

experience — across each of our 12 locations worldwide.

dynamics in the market. It is meeting people who

For a watch collector, there is no better experience to

only want to talk about watches and people who ‘just’

further the love of horology than uniting with other col-

buy them. Watch collecting is obsessing over details,

lectors; engaging with people who can both further your

identifying what your niche is; and ultimately, the joy,

knowledge and share in your love of timepieces.

satisfaction, and even frustration, experienced along the

Through events such as our F.P. Journe and De Bet-

way. Throughout the last six years, my understanding,

hune retrospective exhibition, as well as informal gath-

appreciation of and love for watches has changed, and

erings across our global locations, WatchBox is fostering

I truly grasp what other hobbyists are drawn to. And as

environments to broaden one’s interests, dig deeper into

a co-founder of WatchBox and the driver of our global

the brands we’re most passionate about, and cultivate

strategy, this is invaluable as we grow and scale.

lasting connections across our community.

What’s your ‘grail watch’? Have you achieved it or are Let’s get personal — can you tell me a little bit

you still looking for it?

around your own journey in watches? When did you

I believe a ‘grail watch’ is an emotional and ever-chang-

first fall in love with timekeeping?

ing concept. The pursuit of a grail timepiece is not about

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On my watch Justin Reis, co-founder of WatchBox, walks us through his personal collection of horological favourites.

Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Pepsi’ This watch was a gift from my better half, representing the bridge between the business and personal realms of my life. Rolex permeates culture around the world, and I’ve travelled extensively with it on my wrist. As a tool watch, it is practical, legible, comfortable; and even as the ‘new’ Pepsi dominated the horological world, the 16710 still has a steadfast charm.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar with Regulator Display; Ref. 5235G I added this piece to my collection shortly after we launched WatchBox. It is an annual calendar with a regulator-style dial and is unlike anything in the Patek Philippe catalogue. This piece is contemporary while maintaining the classic design codes from Patek Philippe — it is a stunning reminder of what we’re building with WatchBox.

H. Moser & Cie Venturer Vantablack Concept watch To me, this brand represents forward motion in the industry, respect for tradition and commitment to innovation. It’s unique, especially the Vantablack Concept watches, which are cool and stark in design. There is zero complication other than the time; and with the black-on-black dial, I have to purposefully look to see the time.

acquiring a static object, but the journey of collecting,

Unbeknownst to me, he had bought the exact same

the circumstances surrounding each tangible or wish-

watch to give to me as a gift!

list acquisition, and the learning that accompanies it.

It’s about the history, the design, the craftsmanship,

What do you see in the future for WatchBox? Can

and the story behind the watch. It’s the feeling of

we expect more of these types of events in Dubai

satisfaction and fulfillment that comes from acquiring

and the wider Middle East?

whatever watch represents my current grail, and the

Recurring themes for WatchBox in 2023 will be com-

knowledge that a grail is a moving target. As long as

munity and curation, bringing exceptionally unique,

my interest in collecting and learning about horol-

complicated, rare and interesting watches to our col-

ogy continues to grow, so will my definition of what

lectors around the world. We recognize that there’s an

constitutes a grail timepiece.

insatiable appetite across the WatchBox community to

I do have a funny story about one of my first grail

learn, to forge relationships with fellow collectors as

watches. My twin brother and I both achieved some

well as emotional connections with these mechanical

sort of milestone early in our respective careers, and

pieces of art. This is still just the beginning, and we

I bought him a watch that I absolutely loved — the

look forward to bringing more events like this to the

Rolex Submariner ‘Kermit’ — to mark the occasion.

Middle East.

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Watch trends RACHEL SILVESTRI

On the red eye Chinese New Year may have come and gone, but for the bold, shades of scarlet bring luck all year round. Here’s GMT GCC’s pick of the best and brightest when it comes to showing your dangerous side.

CHOPARD IMPERIALE Its diminutive 28mm diameter, ethically-sourced 18 carat rose gold and charming aspect should make this new member of the Imperiale collection an absolute angel — but its devilishly daring colour scheme gives it a quite different edge altogether. Classic, feminine and subtle, this stainless steel and gold timepiece is nevertheless eye-catching for all the right reasons. The sunburst satin-brushed dial is complemented by a matching leather strap and red jewel in the lotus-shaped crown. An entirely in-house Chopard Calibre 09.01-C self-winding movement with 42-hour power reserve ensures that as well as style, this watch’s class extends to its workings too. It’s a bold new take on a tried-and-true style — and we are a little bit in love.

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GIRARD PERREGAUX LAURETO ABSOLUTE LIGHT & FIRE The translucency of its scarlet case, the architecture of its curves and lines and the complexity of its inner workings makes this Girard Perregaux timepiece a red-hot masterpiece. Flickering with light and limited to just 18 pieces, this reincarnation of the original 1975 Laureto is like a phoenix from its predecessors’ flames — all the class, while as modern as they come. At 44mm this is no shrinking violet, but with a skeletonised self-winding calibre this beautiful, and with only 18 pieces produced, why would you want to hide away?

Let them burn with envy.

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105

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER COLLECTION GRAND FEU ROSA MYSTICA A rose, by any other name, would still smell as sweet — and this delectable timepiece takes all its cues from that most romantic of flowers. The vibrant red grand feu enamel adorning the dial is mirrored by an engraved rose carrée on the caseback, the manually-wound minute repeater calibre with cathedral gongs hidden within. The front bezel, rear bezel and caseback sides are all diamond encrusted, interrupted only by the magnificence of a natural garnet cabochon on the crown, the perfect last word in this timepiece’s exquisite craftsmanship. A flight of romance to imagine something so lovely placed on one’s wrist? It’d be the sweetest rose of the bunch.

LUMINOR PANERAI LUNA ROSSA Taking up the trend for red doesn’t mean you have to go full-on stop sign. A flash of colour can be just enough to reference your fashionforward creds, and the go-faster stripe and super cute small seconds on this newly-launched and unmistakably nautical Luminor Panerai hits all the right notes. Named Luna Rossa, after the champion sailing team who recently took the Prada Cup at the most recent America’s Cup, it’s indeed a shining beacon of touchable simplicity, a red moon in the blackness of a night on the ocean. Sporting a high polish that contrasts with the brushed steel of the crown protection device, this special edition hand-wound has a three-day power reserve and is part of a run of 1,500 pieces. See if you can get one to dock in your port.

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ZENITH DEFY REVIVAL Intensely retro and a classic of its genre, the Zenith DEFY Revival is a faithful homage to its original 1971 model — and thank goodness for that. This second edition in the DEFY Revival collection, and the first one to join Zenith’s regular production instead of being a limited number, comes straight in with a punchy graduated red dial serving to make the most of its distinctively Space Age hour markers and vintage-cool octagonal case. The quirky placement of the date window at 4:30 and the 14-faceted bezel are all consistent with the original model, with updates such as display case back and Super-LumiNova highlights on the hands only serving to enhance its charms without veering into the cartoonish. A collector’s favourite, the DEFY is beloved of classic watch fans everywhere — and this affectionately-done reissue is sure to delight even the most strict of purists.

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Flash of inspiration We all love to live in vivid colour, and these eye-popping timepieces make the most of a super spectrum of vibrant shades. Last year may have been all about the ordered rainbow, but with these watches we are sending rays in every direction.

Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Ceramic Trilogy These watches may be named after the muted shade of their ceramic cases, but that’s far from the most important colour in their palette. Partnering with architect and horologer Alain Silberstein — known for his bold primary colours and geometric shapes — Bell & Ross have produced three new versions of their classic cockpit-inspired BR 03. A time-only plus date model, a chronograph and a diving watch complete this trifecta of almost childlike playfulness, resplendent in their outsized hands and infinitely touchable glossy buttons.

In order to reach this whimsical result, however, a year and a half of technical manoeuvring was needed to implement the two-tone bezel of the diving watch and ensure the lightness and therefore accuracy of the frankly cartoonish hands.

The result? Impeccably joyful and instantly covetable. Who wouldn’t want this carefree pop of colour on their wrist.

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Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Candy Shop Oh, what a delicious confection Chronoswiss has come up with this time. Hot on the heels of 2022’s neon goodness in the shape of the Chronoswiss Sugar Rush, the family-run horologer has done it again, and this time the doors of the candy shop have been flung wide open. Never afraid to be different, Chronoswiss has gone for a mouthwatering selection of colours for the top of the dial’s two-part construction, with the skeletonised train wheel bridges, hour and seconds displays in bold and clashing hues. But don’t let them distract you from the subtle stroke of genius sitting just beneath — the hand-guillochéd dial is also a hybrid module plate, supporting all the delectable workings right there for all to see. Tasty?

You bet.

Maurice de Mauriac L3 Purple Spheric DLC Continuing its adventures in colour, this Zurich-based family Maison has struck out with shades of deep purple — and what a vivid choice it is. The rich, graduated sheen of the dial lightens to almost pink in the centre, highlighting the aesthetically pleasing horizontal layout of the L3’s trio of dials, with the chronograph minute counter at three o’ clock, the chronograph half-hours at six o’ clock and the small seconds at nine o’ clock. With a 40.5mm diameter, this princely piece works for him or her, in a royal hue fit for a king or queen. Topped off by Super-LumiNova seconds and indices, and you’ve got an eye-catchingly colourful piece for all the right reasons.

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Hublot Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow Rainbow watches may be a well-established trend, but this pair of intricately gem-set Big Bangs have another colour dimension in the form of Hublot’s vibrant King Gold. Brushed, polished, and set with princesscut gems which leave more space for the gold to be glimpsed between them, Hublot is really giving the people what they asked for — in the most Hublot of ways. Integrated bracelets, manageable 42mm (for the chronograph) and 40mm (for the time-only) diameters — one could hardly call this pair of bombastic watches subtle, but they’re certainly one of Hublot’s most wearable new launches.

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Zenith DEFY Extreme Felipe Pantone Whichever way you look at it, this artful piece is brimming with colour, and it’s thanks to master of chromatics Argentine-Spanish op-artist Felipe Pantone.

The sculptural depth of the DEFY Extreme was a natural choice for Pantone’s unique brand of illusion, allowing the colourfully metallic elements and sharp lines to do the hard work when immersing the eye in its profundities. Shading, geometry and of course those pops of colour are the hallmark of this piece, with the El Primero 9004 movement ensuring the smooth running of the central chronograph, nine o’ clock small seconds, half-hour counter at three o’ clock, 60 second counter at six o’ clock and power reserve indicator at 12 o’ clock.

It’s a delightfully complex calibre all wrapped up in a pleasing package — a Pantone colour for everyone.

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Man and machine Military, utility, durability… Whatever you want to call this ultra-masculine trend, there’s one thing for certain — this level of muscle is not for shrinking violets.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date It’s hunky, chunky and made for action, and it can seemingly do everything and anything. If you’re not a fan of technologically advanced dials and masses of indices, look away now, because this beast is taking Audemars Piguet into the future of precision. The manufacturer’s first selfwinding split seconds flyback chronograph to be produced in series, this is a new chapter for Royal Oak Concept and one that fits perfectly with its focus on high-tech advancements. Sporty yet solid, the titanium case sports a robust profile and, at 43mm, is just the right side of hefty. It’s now 20 years since the Royal Oak Concept was first launched, and things are clearly going in the right direction.

Breitling Aerospace Red Arrows Special Edition One for the real military anoraks out there, this latest in a series of collaborations between Breitling and the UK’s Royal Air Force once again goes above and beyond. As the official sponsor of the Royal Air Force Aerobatic Team — more commonly called the Red Arrows — Breitling is the only luxury watch brand with permission to feature their distinctive emblems, and makes the most of them on this macho timepiece. Breitling’s special subject is military pilot watches, so this was always going to be a doozy, and from the titanium case and retro styling to the in-built tech and user-friendly controls it’s a watch that doesn’t disappoint. Chronograph, countdown timer, second time zone, alarm, minute repeater, calendar and backlit LCD display keep it practical, while the trademark ‘Diamond Nine’ formation allows for a certain amount of romance too. Top Gun? You betcha.

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Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI This watch may have the look of a trophy hunter’s favourite, but really it’s quite the opposite — Hublot has been a partner of SORAI, Save Our Rhinos Africa India, since 2019 and the proceeds raised by this latest timepiece will serve to help fund their work in preserving these magnificent animals from poachers. With its camo aesthetic painted in the shades of a savannah sunset, the 44mm rhino-grey ceramic caseback holds an openworked dial and the selfwinding in-house movement with 72 hour power reserve in a perfect demonstration of safari chic.

“If purchasing a watch can buy time, then it is a small gesture with huge implications,” says Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot. “When brand ambassador and former international cricketer Kevin Pietersen launched SORAI in 2018, we felt it was entirely natural to join forces with him in his race against time to beat the poachers.”

Panerai Submersible Forze Speciali The elite Italian Special Forces are the unmitigated muse for these two utilitarian timepieces, designed to endure and survive the same extreme situations as the soldiers who inspired them. The DLC-coated titanium cases clock in at an unmissable 47mm, and are fitted with unidirectional rotating ceramic bezels.

Solid blocks of Super-LumiNova form the ultra-legible indices, visible in all atmospheric conditions, and the small seconds and chronograph subdials at three o’ clock and nine o’ clock have the look of a bullseyestyle target. The P.9100/R movement powers a flyback chronograph, as well as a Time to Target countdown function, operated by a four o’ clock pusher. Whether with the blue bezel or the more flamboyant camouflage strap and military green bezel of the Experience Edition, both references have a muscular, practical presence that’s impossible to miss.

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Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat Back to Black It’s mean, evil and totally desirable. The Dark

challenge,” says Felix Baumgartner, co-founder

Knight of timepieces, this is the most digital

of Urwerk. “This UR-112 is pure madness in

of Urwerk’s creations yet and features jumping

terms of the mechanics and the finishes. The

hours, dragging minutes, digital seconds and

energy generated by the central engine is dis-

a whole truckload of attitude. The architecture

tributed in four directions along no less than 12

of the watch’s steel and titanium body is almost

axes. It’s mechanical lace. We will only be able

automotive, with a grooved and openworked

to make a very limited number of them, but this

bonnet revealing glimpses of the motor inside.

is sheer, unadulterated watchmaking pleasure!”

“Once again we’ve let our guts speak for us in making a spaceship, a UFO that is a technical

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Have you been looking for a mean machine?

You’ve found it.

Interview

JOLA CHUDY

My time

A life of passions He’s the CEO of Hole19 Group, director of Nigerian luxury lifestyle retailer Zakaa, and now Deremi Ajidahun finds himself at the helms of both GMT Africa and the newly-launched GMT GCC magazines. We find out what other tricks this dynamite man has up his sleeve.

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‘‘I don’t think there’s a place

that has more clubs — not just watches, but cars, fashion and so on — per square metre than we have here in the UAE.’’

I

t can be difficult to sum up the kind of mul-

curation of their offerings has helped to shape the

tiple threat that a person such as Deremi Aji-

very market it serves — a niche traditionally filled

dahun poses to the status quo. While to all

by the world’s most beloved and long-lived heri-

intents and purposes he appears to approach

tage retailers.

his passions in the most joyful and relaxed

How fitting, then, that his influence should go

of manners, nontheless this is a man who has

on to extend to the very heart of the industry, as

made his hobbies his business — literally. Cruising

a jury member of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de

through life from interest to pastime, at each step

Genève. The much-anticipated prize is a barome-

he has spotted opportunities and grabbed them with

ter of the industry, signalling trends and develop-

both hands. Which makes one wonder if his true

ments to the makers, buyers and wearers of fine

passion is one for business — and for creating disrup-

watches. As part of the prize’s jury, Deremi is now

tive ideas that push people and markets forward.

in a position to shape not just his home market,

Take, for instance, his role as the creator of luxe retailer Zakaa. Bringing high-end horology

but also the brands that he supplies it with — and such a role couldn’t be in better hands.

to a dynamic and ever-maturing Nigerian and

A bon vivant and entrepreneur with a new project

wider African market, it made sense for Deremi

constantly on the horizon, it’s this endless energy

to extend his personal love for fine watchmaking

that has got Deremi to where he is, and that will

into a sphere where he could meet a thirst for haute

hopefully continue to propel his important point of

timepieces from fellow collectors. But more than

view to the forefront of the watchmaking commu-

that, Deremi’s careful gathering of Maisons and

nity’s awareness. ▶▶

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For those who are meeting you or hearing about you for

You’ve built a number of companies over your career,

the first time, how would you describe yourself?

with great variety between them — can you let us in on

I’d describe myself as someone who is quite introverted

that journey?

despite appearing to be extraverted. I’m quietly confident,

All my businesses are about my passions, every single one,

friendly but not overly so. I’m quite conservative. I’ve been

and actually none have been directly related to my Mas-

described as enigmatic and charismatic, too. And I am

ter, which was International Affairs. The first company I

definitely entrepreneurial.

worked for was an IT company and I ended up winning a design award for the annual report of the year, two years

What was your early life like? Were your parents a big

running. So I thought ok, there’s something there. I star-

inspiration to you?

ted my own design company and from that company went

Yes they definitely were. My father was a shipping

into printing and publishing. My main business after that

magnate; as a teenager I would accompany him to the

— Hole19 — is related to golf. I had a friend who was an

ships in the port and work late nights with him. To be

ardent golfer who invited me to play. At first, as an ex-foot-

honest, I’m not sure about the exact nature of the work

ball player, I resisted. And then after eight months of wat-

that I was doing! However, it started me off on my path.

ching, I suddenly caught the bug. I bought a set of clubs in

When I came out of university I worked for three or four

California and I brought them back to Nigeria.

years in banking and then I went straight into running my

I wasn’t a particularly good golfer, but one day I was

own business and I’ve run my own businesses ever since.

being watched by some players and one of them insisted

My late father was my hero. I was just 17 when my father

on buying my golf clubs, because they weren’t available in

passed, but he achieved so much in the business world. He

Nigeria. And then it happened again, when I had bought

was a Christian, and my mother, who was an absolute dar-

a second set back from California. They were made by Cal-

ling, was very Muslim — Nigeria is a country where people

laway. And again, I thought — there’s something here.

live side by side, and I grew up with both these worlds. My

I took myself off to London. I had no appointment with

mother taught me courage and confidence. She always

them but I found the address of Callaway Golf in Lea-

protected me when I was naughty, as mothers do. She

therhead and knocked on their door. The lady at reception

taught me how to be tender, and caring.

said “Sorry, sir, there’s a three month wait for an appointment.” I said: “Please tell the MD that I’ve come all the way

Where is home for you now?

from Nigeria. I just need 10 minutes of his time.” It trans-

It’s 100 per cent Nigeria. I first left Nigeria when I was six

pired that the MD’s elder brother was in my class at school.

years old to go to school in England. My schooling was

Small world! Our 10 minutes turned into five hours and

between England and Switzerland, depending on where

dinner. And that’s how Hole19 started. 

my father was.

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117

From being the importer and distributor for Callaway Golf in

My business model works with independent brands who want a

Nigeria, the company grew to managing and creating tourna-

voice, and some of the bigger players don’t really have the energy

ments and managing, maintaining and redesigning golf courses.

or capacity to take care of some of the small brands who are not major hitters. It’s not a traditional retail model; it is more of an

The UAE is obviously close to your heart. What is it about the

experience and expression.

Emirates that you fell in love with?

This country started marketing golf packages to the UK in the

One of the things you mention quite a lot is community and

1980s; I think it was something like one week in the Rotana

how important that is to you.

hotel in Deira for GBP180, including airfare — it got on my radar,

Yes, community is very, very important. What I love here is that

and although I bought books about how to set up in the UAE, I

the community is very strong. The watch community is strong

never did. Not until many years later when my daughter — I have

back home too, but it’s more fractured. Here people are very

five children, three girls and two boys — said she wanted to go

happy to talk about their love of watches. You know, I guess it also

to school here. She found a school, got the application form and

comes with a certain amount of security. Even in England, I don’t

handed it to me. Fait accompli! When I was growing up, I didn’t see

think people want to talk about their huge collections and where

my father much as he was working a lot, and I want my daughter

they might be located and who they are! I don’t think there’s a

to see me in Dubai, so I decided to look for some work. And then

place that has more clubs — not just watches, but cars, fashion

my dear friend Brice Chevalier said “Well, why don’t you take over

and so on — per square metre than we have here in the UAE. So

GMT GCC?” And I said “Ok!”.

yes, community is very, very important.

I just love the people here. I love the local attitude and of course it’s a huge, international place. Very vibrant. It’s got a lot of

You’re the publisher of GMT Africa magazine, and now you’ve

things. It has its deficiencies like any other city in the world. But

launched the brand new GMT GCC for the Middle East. What

I have always been fascinated by the Emiratis, and their culture

do you hope that these publications will achieve in their res-

that is reserved and polite and kind. There is an attitude of fin-

pective markets? What’s your role as publisher?

ding solutions, instead of focusing on problems.

I remember attending a huge conference in Paris and the CEO of Bulgari was on stage. Somebody mentioned Nigeria and he was

You’ve also got a watch business. What got you into that?

proud to say how Nigerians were some of his best customers in

It was really my wife who said “you’re spending a lot of time,

Paris. And everybody clapped.

energy and money at watch fairs as a collector… Why not turn it

I stood up and asked him: “Nigerians are your best customers…

into a business?” Initially I didn’t do anything about it but then

Do you have a boutique in Nigeria?” And the answer was no. I said

I thought “That’s an interesting comment.” At my third visit to

“You have 17 boutiques in Hong Kong alone. Why don’t you close

Basel I tried to present myself as a potential retailer or distributor,

just one, and open another in Nigeria?”

and of course, the response was zero. Nobody was ready to listen

We will get there. The watch industry needs more representa-

to me whatsoever. Nigeria has its recognised retailers and distri-

tion from Africa — it’s still super white and super male! I always

butors and who was I, just some guy. But then I got one brand and

like to ask these kind of questions. Maybe it ruffles feathers, but

another… And that was the start. We’ve never looked back.

I always ask them.

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On my watch Do you have any early memories of time-

Can you let us in on some of the highlights of

pieces, or particular moments in your youth

your collection?

or childhood that paved the way for your love

My collection has always been about what just

of horology?

takes my fancy. It’s never been about money or

Back in the 1970s, I remember Steiner was the

price. I only started collecting Rolexes about five

owner of the Rolex franchise in Nigeria. Every

years ago; I’ve always been a fan of the Ulysse

day I’d pass the boutique and stand outside as

Nardin Freak. The concept was very nice from

a young boy, looking in through the window at

day one. The Nautilus is a watch that I enjoyed

all these watches. Of course, my father was a

many years ago. It’s not speaking to me the way

watch collector already back then. And one day

it used to, perhaps because everybody wants it.

he took my hand and he said “Get into my car.” I

I’ve always wanted to be different. A Patek might

was shaking like a leaf inside the car, I thought

not start a conversation the way it used to.

“What the hell have I done?” And we parked out-

A few nights ago I was wearing my Purnell

side the store, and went in and the next thing

which has the fastest tourbillon in the world. I

I know, he had bought me my first watch — an

was with a whole group of guys, many of them

Oris. So the passion really came from my rela-

wearing Richard Milles, Patek Philippes and so

tionship with my father.

forth. But everybody wanted to know what I was wearing, because they had never seen one in

What was your first significant horological

real life before.

purchase? What did it mean to you?

After the Oris, my father bought me a Longines

The launch of GMT GCC is a milestone in your

for my 16th birthday. And I wore that happily for

career — do you plan to reward yourself with

the longest time. Just before my 18th birthday, I

a horological gift? Any pieces you have your

bought my own watch and it was a Le Roy. And

heart set on?

then after that I bought a Cartier Santos. And

I turned 60 last year, and I commissioned two

the most expensive one that I bought after that

very special watches… Put it this way, they are

was a Cartier Santos in rose gold, which I bought

both very ‘difficult’ watches and I had to do a lot

in Switzerland, and it took me a very, very long

of arm twisting! I am hoping to receive them

time to save up for it!

both this year.

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Photo shoot PHOTOS : DENIS HAYOUN (STUDIO DIODE) TEXT: BRICE LECHEVALIER

A

THE DANCE OF MATERIALS

s luxury industries contemplate their place in the circular economy, photographer Denis Hayoun looked at recyclable materials and their possible use in watchmaking. These seven new releases, whether classic, sporty haute horlogerie or artistic craft watches, make for a visual feast that provides plenty of food for thought.

LOUIS VUITTON

Tambour Street Diver

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AUDEMARS PIGUET

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

1815 Rattrapante

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JAQUET DROZ

Dragon Automaton

TAG HEUER

Aquaracer GMT

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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

Tonda PF Automatic

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ULYSSE NARDIN

Diver Norrøna Arctic Night

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Watch focus RACHEL SILVESTRI

Speed machine The latest model to join Reservoir’s awardwinning Kanister collection, the 316 brings a new and modern look to this vintage line. Inspired by the legendary Porsche 356 Speedster, this is a Franco-Swiss timepiece for petrolheads, nostalgia lovers and watch fanatics alike.

I

f you close your eyes, you can almost be there. The gentle click of the door closing, the soft leather seat beneath you.

The pleasing smoothness and thinness of the classic wood steering wheel and, finally, the throaty noise and vibration of the revs, as you turn the engine over and punch the acce-

lerator. It’s enough to make your pulse race. But if you were to open your eyes, what would they land upon? The quivering needle of the RPM counter, rising and falling hypnotically in tandem with the pedal as the revs roar through the engine and into your heart.

The 356 Speedster captured the imagination of a generation of gearheads from the very moment it was launched in 1954. From the gentle curves of the bodywork right down to the ultra-legible RPM counter on the dash, it’s no wonder that this work of automotive art’s appeal has been so enduring. And it’s this iconic dial that served as the inspiration for Reservoir’s Kanister collection of timepieces. With its unique combination of jumping hours at six o’clock on an inner circle, retrograde minutes mimicking the motion of the

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Reservoir Kanister 316 Case: Brushed stainless steel, open caseback, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, screw-down crown Size: 41.5mm Movement: Calibre RSV-240, manufacture self-winding mechanical movement, patented proprietary 113-piece module, LJP G100 base, 56-hour power reserve Functions: Retrograde minute, jumping hour, power reserve Dial: Black or silver Strap: Stainless steel, 22mm width with butterfly folding clasp Price: Dhs18,680 (approx.)

RPM counter’s needle and retro-cool power reserve indicator ancho-

prietary three-complication module that’s coupled with a manu-

ring the whole dial, this arrestingly automotive look won a presti-

facture movement, the LJP-G100 by Swiss motor manufacturer

gious Red Dot award in 2022, proving its design creds.

Télôs Watch S.A. Since Reservoir’s creation in France in 2017, all

Building on the success of the first Kanister timepieces, Reservoir

the brand’s timepieces are equipped with Télôs modules, and this

is taking things one step further by adding a modern spin to the

Franco-Swiss partnership moved one step further in 2022 with the

vintage soul of the originals. The Kanister 316, in both black and

launch of Kanister and its specially-tailored calibre.

silver-dialled versions, brings a contemporary feel by swapping the

Developing movements in La Chaux-de-Fonds and assembling

leather stitched straps in favour of five-linked brushed stainless

them in Neuchâtel, Télôs has impeccable watchmaking providence.

steel bracelets. Matching the brushed steel of the watch’s case,

Combined with the distinctively inviting design of Reservoir’s

the effect gives the pastel green indices, red 45-50 minute zone and

Kanister collection, the partnership is undeniably one that works.

stark white minute indicator hand even more of a pop. The silver

Getting behind the wheel of a Speedster was the ultimate expres-

dial version, with its subtly contrasting grey and black accents,

sion of freedom in the late 1950s. Thought of as a decade of tightly-

makes for a homogenous effect that really is quite eye-catching on

laced baby boomers, it was also the era of teenagers, rock ‘n’ roll and

the wrist. It all comes wrapped up in a specially-designed wooden

rebellious spirit. This timepiece is a beautiful expression of all that

box — complete with additional black leather or taupe ostrich strap.

was pure and good about it. The wind in your hair, leaving all your

So what’s under the bonnet of this sporty little number? The

cares behind you — nothing between you and the horizon but a few

entire Kanister collection is powered by the calibre RSV-240, a pro-

jumps of the needle on the rev counter. Get your motor runnin’.

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12th Art BRICE LECHEVALIER

GPHG Honouring the winners

T

he 22nd Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards ceremony brought together the entire watch-

making community on 10 November 2022 at the Théâtre du Léman to reward the best of watchmaking creativity in 21 categories. Read a comprehensive analysis in the GPHG special feature on our WorldTempus.com website or by scanning the QR Code below.

MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo

Jean-Christophe Babin (CEO Bulgari Group, right), pictured applauding MAX BÜSSER (CEO MB&F) to whom he handed the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix awarded to Bulgari at the previous edition.

FULL RESULTS

CALENDAR AND ASTRONOMY WATCH PRIZE:

MECHANICAL CLOCK PRIZE:

AIGUILLE D’OR GRAND PRIX:

Krayon, Anywhere

Van Cleef & Arpels, Fontaine Aux

MB&F, Legacy Machine Sequential Evo

MECHANICAL EXCEPTION WATCH PRIZE:

Oiseaux Automaton

LADIES’ WATCH PRIZE:

Ferdinand Berthoud, FB 2RSM.2-1

INNOVATION PRIZE:

Parmigiani Fleurier, Tonda PF Automatic

CHRONOGRAPH WATCH PRIZE:

Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

LADIES’ COMPLICATION WATCH PRIZE:

Grönefeld, 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum

Hermès, Arceau Le Temps Voyageur

DIVER’S WATCH PRIZE:

AUDACITY PRIZE:

MEN’S WATCH PRIZE:

Tudor, Pelagos FXD

Bulgari, Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary

Akrivia, Chronomètre Contemporain II

JEWELLERY WATCH PRIZE:

CHRONOMETRY PRIZE:

MEN’S COMPLICATION WATCH PRIZE:

Bulgari, Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery

Grand Seiko, Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon

Hermès, Arceau Le Temps Voyageur

ARTISTIC CRAFTS WATCH PRIZE:

“HOROLOGICAL REVELATION” PRIZE:

Sylvain Pinaud, Origine

ICONIC WATCH PRIZE:

Voutilainen, Ji-Ku

TAG Heuer, Monaco X Gulf

PETITE AIGUILLE PRIZE:

SPECIAL JURY PRIZE:

TOURBILLON WATCH PRIZE:

Trilobe, Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition

François Junod, automaton-maker and sculptor

H. Moser & Cie, Pioneer Cylindrical

CHALLENGE WATCH PRIZE:

Tourbillon Skeleton

M.A.D. Editions, M.A.D.1 Red

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ANTOINE PIN

Managing Director of the Bulgari Watch Division

FRÉDÉRIC ARNAULT

CEO TAG Heuer Iconic Watch Prize: TAG HEUER, Monaco X Gulf

Jewellery Watch Prize: BULGARI, Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery

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LAURENT DORDET

CEO La Montre Hermès For the first time in the history of the GPHG, a brand received both the Ladies’ and Men’s Complication Watch Prizes for the same model interpreted in two different sizes: Hermès, Arceau Le Temps Voyageur

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: VOUTILAINEN, Ji-Ku

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KARL-FRIEDRICH SCHEUFELE

CEO Ferdinand Berthoud

GUIDO TERRENI

CEO Parmigiani Fleurier Ladies’ Watch Prize: PARMIGIANI FLEURIER,

Tonda PF Automatic

Mechanical Exception Prize: FERDINAND BERTHOUD,

FB 2RSM.2-1

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Innovation Prize: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS,

Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

EDOUARD & BERTRAND MEYLAN

H. Moser & Cie. Tourbillon Prize: H. MOSER & CIE., Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

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Deremi Ajidahun (GMT Africa, GMT GCC) and Geoffroy Ader (watchmaking expert) handed over the Petite Aiguille Prize to VOLCY BLOCH (CEO Trilobe) and GAUTIER MASSONNEAU (founder Trilobe)

REXHEP REXHEPI

CEO Akrivia Men’s Watch Prize: AKRIVIA, Chronomètre Contemporain II

Chronometry Prize: GRAND SEIKO, Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon

SIMON DEBARZ received the Prize for the Best

Young Student at the Geneva Watchmaking School – and could well have been awarded the Audacity Prize too!

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Petite Aiguille Prize: TRILOBE, Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition

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Atlantis Dubai’s grand reveal weekend It was worth the wait... The world came to the Emirates to celebrate the opening of this iconic new Dubai landmark.

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Atlantis The Royal’s party fit for a queen It was the biggest party Dubai has seen since the original Atlantis, The Palm’s record-breaking opening in 2008 — but instead of a Kylie Minogue concert, this time the emirate’s golden shores were blessed by the queen of the Beyhive herself, Beyoncé Knowles. A parade of wellknown faces both regional and international gathered to celebrate the opening of this landmark hotel and resort, once again affirming Dubai’s place on the luxury map.

Beyoncé’s first live performance since 2018 was the highlight of the weekend, sending ripples worldwide.

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A grand reopening The celebrations just kept coming, with lucky invitees being the first to glimpse Nobu Matsuhisa’s famed eatfor Nobu at Atlantis, ery’s new look. Kendall Jenner helped do the honours The Palm in a ceremony to inaugurate the new venue, which now sits on the famed bridge that straddles Atlantis,

The Palm’s towers, and includes a lounge and bar, and terrace with spectacular views.

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Hublot’s football-mad World Cup kick-off party As the excitement built toward the commencement of the FIFA World Cup 2022, Hublot marked the occasion with a colourful bash that hit all the right notes. BBC pundits Rio Ferdinand and Alan Shearer brought the footballing prowess, while Joelle Mardinian and Mahira Abdel Aziz showered the occasion in stylish sparkle.

Bubbling over with anticipation, it was the perfect beginning to what would be a truly special World Cup.

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A star-studded closing fiesta for #HUBLOTLOVESFOOTBALL A spectacular tournament deserved a spectacular send-off — and boy, does Hublot know how to party. With eight-time Olympic champion Usain Bolt, 21-time Grand Slam winner Novak Djokovic, and football legends Luis Figo, Marcel Desailly and David Trezeguet all in attendance, this who’s who of the sporting world’s royalty joined the celebrations of a truly memorable FIFA World Cup 2022

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A world of imagination at Van Cleef & Arpels’s Saudi Arabian exhibition The National Museum of Saudi Arabia in Riyadh played host to a timeless evening of music, borne on the magical atmosphere created by the unique surroundings of Van Cleef & Arpels’s landmark exhibition Time, Nature, Love.

Guests arrived to a fantastical dreamland at the opening gala, and were swept off their feet by the sweet strains of a performance by celebrated Egyptian mezzo-soprano Farrah El Dibany, accompanied by veteran pianist Jeff Cohen. As the first Egyptian and African singer to join the Paris Opera Academy, Farrah married the best of both worlds being represented that evening — the Parisian sophistication of Van Cleef & Arpels and the warm, Arab hospitality offered by the KSA — to magnificent effect.

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WatchBox exhibition stops off in Dubai High-end timepieces from independent watchmakers F.P. Journe and De Bethune appeared in Dubai to much admiration from the watch community, as part of a whistlestop world tour from dynamic luxury watch collecting platform WatchBox. Collectors, journalists and watch enthusiasts gathered to see the pieces represented in Two Decades of F.P. Journe & De Bethune — A Retrospective Exhibition, with De Bethune’s CEO Pierre Jacques on hand to share his insights into this celebration of the work of François-Paul Journe and Denis Flageollet.

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A sky full of stars at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s twinkling event GMT GCC’s Editor-in-Chief was dancing amongst the stars at the Dubai VIP opening of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s The Stellar Odyssey exhibition, with notable guests including British-Lebanese actress Razane Jammal and Arab Watch Guide’s Hassan Akhras, enjoying a live performance by DJ Amémé. Catherine Rénier, CEO of JaegerLeCoultre, hosted the chic gathering.

“The Stellar Odyssey is a deeply immersive experience, inviting you to explore the wonders that we can observe in our night sky and their symbiotic relationship with the art of watchmaking,” said Catherine. “Because the ancient cultures of the Middle East played a seminal role in the origins of time measurement, we are truly honoured to begin the world tour of this exhibition in Dubai.”

The exhibition, which explores the relationship between astronomical phenomena and time measurement, is staged in a breathtaking pavilion floating on the Dubai Fountain with the Burj Khalifa as its backdrop. It includes a debut of Guillaume Marmin’s Passengers: Through Time, an art installation that invites visitors to ponder the question of time, and a special menu of soft cocktails created by renowned mixologist Matthias Giroud. Both artists are collaborating with Jaeger-LeCoultre under its Made of Makers programme, which aims to explore and extend the dialogue between horology and art.

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Whatever floats your boat – Dubai International Boat Show had something for everyone Who doesn’t love a boat? After beautiful watches, I think admiring sleek yachts is one of my favourite things to do. And dream about. Each year, the Dubai International Boat Show reminds us that the maritime legacy of the United Arab Emirates as a strategic port lives on in the kind of boldly luxe, lavish and fabulous way that we’ve made our own.

This year’s ultra-prestigious event was a must-see on the global calendar for anyone with even a passing interest in big boats. GMT GCC’s team were among the first to step on to the berths to get a look at the superyachts and floating palaces that will be whetting the seafaring appetites and putting dents in the coffers of the world’s ocean-faring oligarchs. This year’s theme took a look at the latest technology from smart shipping to AI tech, innovative materials and more – just like our beloved watches, the world of yachts straddles rich heritage and the future with endless panache, creativity, vision and style.

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Rising to the occasion, GMT GCC’s own Deremi Ajidahun took the stage at the GPHG The 22nd Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève got underway amid great pomp and circumstance – helped in no small part by the presence of GMT GCC’s very own publisher Mr Deremi Ajidahun. Presenting the Petite Aguille award to Trilobe for their Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition, Deremi took his place among the 30 Jury members as the first Nigerian to hold such a position. A driving force in the market with more than 30 years of experience in the luxury industry, Deremi’s passion for and knowledge of the horological world earned him his place at the table – and at the glittering and much-anticipated ceremony.

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An evening spent appreciating the finer things in life, hosted by Officina Italiana at Blind Tiger The invitation said it would be ‘a fine evening with cigars and great conversations’ — and the event did not disappoint. This ‘gentlemen’s gathering’ was a truly refined boys’ night out, with all manner of elegant pastimes, hobbies and tastes distilled into one spectacular soirée of sharing and mutual appreciation. Friendships were renewed, connections made and the most luxurious of fun was had in the sumpuous surroundings of Jumeirah Al Naseem’s hidden gem Blind Tiger. With the tagline ‘hard to find, impossible to forget’ it’s certainly a special spot — and indeed created an unforgettable evening for the like-minded gents that the curator of rare, unique and niche accessories Officina Italiana brought together.

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Jet set BRICE LECHEVALIER & RACHEL SILVESTRI

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GOLDMUND: MINI SIZE, MAXI SOUND

At the very top of the acoustic art pyramid, prized by music lovers around the world for its generously designed, avant-garde speakers, audio hyper-specialist Goldmund is making its expertise more accessible with its new Pulp model. Still made in Geneva, the purity of wireless sound now comes in a minimalist format.

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BENTLEY & FLEXJET

Designed by Bentley Motors’ bespoke workshop, the Bacalar inspired Flexjet to use its design elements to create a customized Gulfstream G650 jet and Sikorsky S-76 helicopter. When bespoke takes off.

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THE CODE41 MECASCAPE

Boldly original, this pocket timepiece is neither a watch nor a clock, but tells the time mechanically in a format reimagined by CODE41’s founder Claudio d’Amore.

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BURJ BINGHATTI JACOB & CO. RESIDENCE

Based on the the idea of living inside a jewel, this ultra-luxurious skyscraper project initiated in Dubai by Binghatti and Jacob & Co. is aiming for the record of the world's highest residential tower.

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EAR MICRO & KLIPSCH AUDIO

A finalist in the Luxury Innovation Awards, the T10 is the first luxury connected earpiece, crafted by artisans using materials from the world of fine jewellery and haute watchmaking.

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GUERLAIN RÊVE D’AMOUR X NADINE KANSO

In addition to the heady mix of mandarin and white flower fragrance found inside this flacon, the collaboration between Parisian parfumier Guerlain and Middle Eastern artist Nadine Kanso has resulted in a 24 carat gold and 1,710 crystal reimagining of the classic Bee Bottle. Show some love.

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Headliner MARIE DE PIMODAN

Three things worth knowing about

Mark Ronson Audemars Piguet ambassador

1. He’s a serial hit-maker A DJ, multi-instrumentalist and brilliant record producer, Mark Ronson got his first taste of the magic potion of music at a young age by mixing tracks at hip hop parties. His name began to emerge on the international pop scene in 2006 with Amy Winehouse’s Back to Black album. He has been the king of cool and turntables ever since, assembling sounds like no one else and bringing his own personal signature to them: hip hop inspirations with a hint of brassy soul and a touch of 1980s synthesizer. Uptown Funk with Bruno Mars is his work, as is Shallow with Lady Gaga, winner of an Oscar for Best Original Song on the soundtrack of Bradley Cooper’s A Star is Born.

2. He wears a vintage Royal Oak He discovered Audemars Piguet by chance during a trip to Paris: “In Daft Punk’s entourage, the cool guys were wearing an Audemars Piguet. I asked them what this watch was: I don’t think I could even pronounce the name correctly at the time! A little while later, I managed to buy a vintage model through a friend. When I opened the box, it was like heaven right there before me!”

3. He feels a sense of affinity with Audemars Piguet’s savoir faire Since becoming an ambassador, Mark Ronson has been behind the scenes at Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus: “Being in the factory, I really noticed this attention to detail and this combination of analogue instruments and these soulful maestros who make these watches,” he said. “It is so similar to what we do in the studio with our heritage, in the sense of dedication and craft.”

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FAIL OR PREVAIL BUT

RESERVOIR Watch SAS - RCS Paris 821 693 520 - 2023 / @Getty. Credits :

MAKE IT BOLD

GT TOUR Unique design inspired by mechanical measuring instruments, RESERVOIR watches redefine boldness.

The Swiss Made movement offers a radical way to read time – retrograde minute, jumping hour, power reserve.

It transforms time into a precious resource, a faithful ally of adventure. Every 60 minutes, the single hand retrogrades and activates the next moment with the same intensity. To make every hour count.

reservoir-watch.com

Collections available to order at : Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons (United Arab Emirates) | Al Majed Jewellery & Watches (Qatar) | Bahrain Jewellery Center W.L.L (Kingdom Of Bahrain) | Al-Shahab (Kuwait) | Swiss Promotion Private Limited (India)

Exclusive Agent in GCC & MEA GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES 161 Bonus Eventus Phone/Mobile : 00971 58 511 3839 - 00971 55 225 5343 contact@reservoir-watch.com

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