Wine Insider

Rex Leung, Head Sommelier of Hansik Goo and Whey, shares his secrets to building one of the city’s best wine lists.

What do you look for when choosing wines to be part of a wine list?

The first word that comes to mind is uniqueness. The sommelier’s priority is to make sure each guest’s experience is unique and memorable. Guests can obtain most wines themselves, no matter the price, where to buy, country of origin and so on simply by using a smart device. BYOB, however, is a practice that sommeliers hate! If guests are bringing their own wines, a sommelier must selfreflect and ask themselves—did I perform all aspects of my job as perfectly as possible, from sourcing and service to creating a special experience?

What are the latest trends on wine lists?

Balance is the key. Wine lists should include both safe and adventurous wines. Guests come to our restaurants for different occasions—guests at a business meeting don’t have much time to peruse the wine list, so they might prefer to order something safe (shiraz, chardonnay, pinot grigio, merlot) to ensure the meal is happy and the meeting runs smoothly. On the other hand, there are guests who come to be surprised and impressed. We need to wow these guests with great choices. Making sure sommeliers have a range of weapons in our arsenal is wiser than playing to only one type of guest.

What are Hongkongers ordering at restaurants?

People have started to drink different styles at home since the Covid-19 pandemic. As a result, their knowledge and palates have evolved and orders have become more challenging. At my former workplace, a couple came in and requested a recommendation; they wanted a French wine but a unique grape variety. Ultimately, it was a Corsica Sciacarello that made them happy. Another important trend is value for money, even with fine wines. Guests are happier to spend money on good wine when they see something great and it’s also value for money.

What is your approach to matching food and wine?

Food and wine pairing is a sommelier's signature. I am inspired by Mr. Wallace Lo AS, co-owner of the Somm Philosophy, who believes food and wine pairing should be something out of the box, adventurous but also romantic. Why should we play it safe or follow something that’s already written in a textbook? Why not pair a lightly-oaked Saumur-Champigny Rouge with poached Turbot in Beurre Cancalaise sauce? Or two South African reds with slowcooked lamb loin—the more commercial Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block alongside the Craven Cinsault which is a trendy natural wine. Both wines are beautiful and delicious; the side-by side tasting maximised the guest experience and let them vote for the one they liked more.

A sommelier is basically a walking talking drinking wine encyclopaedia. What do you see as the most important skills a sommelier should have besides beverage knowledge? Maximising guest enjoyment through our knowledge is way more important than memorising possible exam questions. Nothing is greater than guests who leave the restaurant happy and return regularly. Examine each guest’s needs and perform your role as a valuable, humble member of the service team.

What advice do you have for aspiring or new sommeliers?

Be humble and be honest. That is what my mentor Mr. John Chan, Director of Wine in the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, told me when we first met. Our reputations are enhanced by the people who work around us. No one wants to work with or for someone who is arrogant.

At the end of the day, we are a server. We can impart great stories about the wines we serve and suggest the best wines to pair with a meal. But we can also learn from every experience. Every guest is an opportunity to improve and grow as a great server.