Wines of the Rainbow Nation

By Tersina Shieh

Diversity, Individuality and Togetherness

With more than 360 years of winemaking history, South Africa is the oldest of the New World. The industry has gone through ups and downs, but it has now firmly crafted a place in the international wine world. South African wine thrives on diversity, individuality and togetherness.

Diversity is in our nature The Cape Winelands are located in the Cape Floral Kingdom, one of six such plant kingdoms in the world, and it is the smallest yet richest with over 10,000 plant species – more than in the whole of the northern hemisphere. The combination of soil, climate, geography, grape varieties and winemakers’ creativity makes it all possible to produce wine of many faces. Grape varieties are not confined to particular regions, and regions are not confined to particular wine styles. Diversity is the strength of South African wine.

Individuality matters In the past decade, South Africa’s reputation for trailblazing unusual and individualist winemaking has captured the wider public imagination. These free-spirited winemakers, what wine professionals refer to as the new-generation or new-wave winemakers, are passionate. Craig Hawkins from Testalonga experiments with various grape varieties including Harslevelü and Muscat d’Alexandrie in the remote north of Swartland. He uses powerful images and distinctive names that reflect the personality of the wine. Take ’I wish I was a Ninja’ as an example, the label is his friend dipping in a pool with a glass of wine in hand. The wine is a "Pet Nat" and it is all about having a good time. David Sadie from David & Nadia makes the most Pinot Noir-like Pinotage and two creative blends - Aristargos is Chenin Blanc based white blend with five other varieties; and Elpidios is the red blend of five varieties including Carignan, Syrah and Pinotage. Peter-Allen Finlayson from Crystallum, on the other hand, focuses only on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and sources grapes from Hemelen-Aarde, Overberg and Elandskloof to make both multivineyards blends and single-vineyard wines.

Together we are stronger When South Africa reconnected with the world after apartheid, producers understood they had to improve quality and rebuild their reputation in order to compete in the international markets. Like-minded producers, therefore, got together to raise the industry standard. Cap Classique Association was the first organised alliance founded by 14 producers in 1992. This was followed by the creation of the Pinotage Association in 1995 and later Chenin Blanc Association in 2000. Members share knowledge and support each other while the association teams communicate a bigger, more powerful message that successfully raises recognition of wines. The new generation winemakers with similar philosophy continue to form alliances - Swartland Independent Producers set up in 2011, The Zoo Cru in 2015 and The Whole Bunch in 2018 - are all making statements in the international world of wine.

The Rainbow Nation of Wine Like its country, the South African wine scene is vibrant and colourful. Stellenbosch is renowned for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style wine while Hemel-en- Aarde’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir stand up high against their international counterparts. Winemakers are passionate and visionary, but down-to-earth. Established producers keep abreast of the latest technology while the young guns revive old vine vineyards. It is no wonder that international critics including Jancis Robinson, Tim Atkin and Neal Martin praise South Africa as the most dynamic and exciting New World wine country.

Over the Rainbow fundraising campaign Covid-19 impacts everyone across the world, but South Africa is particularly hard hit. One of the measures that the South African government took to combat the pandemic was banning domestic alcohol sale. Some 50% of wine produced in South Africa is sold within the country. This ban has severely affected wineries, their employees, and all associated industries from F&B and retail to logistics. Wine lovers from around the world are responding to the industry’s appeal by buying more South African wines. These export sales will help them sustain the businesses and keep workers and farmers employed.

Fourteen Hong Kong wine merchants and wine shops took one step further to help. From mid-August to end of October, they donated HK$10 per bottle of every South African wine sold to two charity organisations in South Africa. Pebbles Project helps children and their families by providing support and intervention in five key areas: Education, Health, Nutrition, Community and Protection; while Anna Foundation addresses the educational and social needs of rural children, helps them to build positive self-worth and self-respect through its 3 Rs Programme: Reading, Running and Right-ing. The campaign is a good opportunity to introduce more exciting South African wines to consumers, and at the same time, bringing hope and smiles to South African children and their families.