Historic Scotland, Summer 2014

The First World War remembered 32 GREAT EVENTS

INSIDE

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS SUMMER 2014

YOUR SUMMER STARTS HERE

NORTHERN NEXUS

Exploring Orkney’s military past

THE LATEST COMPETITIONS AND NEWS

THE A TO Z VISITORS’ GUIDE

GO EXPLORE! From battling knights to brilliant days out

A DIFFERENT KIND OF MEMBERS CLUB The Royal Over-Seas League is a unique, not-for-profit, private membership organisation. For over 100 years we have encouraged international friendship and understanding through arts, social, music and humanitarian programmes. With membership benefits including accommodation and dining at our historic clubhouses in Edinburgh and London, and reciprocal arrangements with over 80 clubs around the world, we offer our members a home away from home.

HOW TO JOIN Call +44 (0)20 7408 0214 (ext. 214 & 216) and quote ‘HISTORIC SCOTLAND’ for special joining discounts, visit www.rosl.org.uk or email info@rosl.org.uk

Edinburgh Clubhouse Over-Seas House 100 Princes Street Edinburgh EH2 3AB London Clubhouse Over-Seas House Park Place St James’s Street London SW1A 1LR

Welcome to

The summer we’ve all been looking forward to is finally here, and with so many big events going on this season I hope you’ll find plenty of inspiration in this latest edition of Historic Scotland magazine.

While Glasgow gears up for the Commonwealth Games, it’s the perfect opportunity for us to look back at how Scotland’s sporting heritage has been played out in bricks and mortar.

As we commemorate the centenary of the start of the First World War this year, historian Allan Carswell reflects on how many buildings on the home front were pressed into active service by the conflict. The war’s legacy is still very much in evidence in Orkney, where the British Grand Fleet made its base at Scapa Flow. In this issue, Indira Mann charts an islandhopping course through Orcadian seafaring history, encountering a few Neolithic treasures and Norse kings en route.

Elsewhere, in a bid to channel something of those ancient mariners, Fiona McKinlay takes the helm of the passenger ferry to Lochleven Castle for the day.

Back on dry land we have a bumper A to Z of great activities and attractions, plus all the usual news and updates, including details of Stirling’s Big Weekend and an award for some fascinating archaeological discoveries on Orkney.

With so many historic attractions on your doorstep, all that’s left to say is: on your marks, get set, go!

CLAIRE BOWIE Membership & CRM Manager

INTRODUCE A FRIEND

HISTORIC SCOTLAND

SEE PAGE 47

MALCOLM COCHRANE

5 big things to see and do this issue 1

Enjoy a journey through time at Celebration of the Centuries P.49

2

Take a trip to Torphichen Preceptory P.14

3

Watch Bannockburn come to life at Stirling’s Big Weekend P.4

4

Set sail for an island castle P.28

5

Catch Fragments of Gold at Glasgow Cathedral P.53

Glasgow Cathedral

Contributors INDIRA MANN Ship to shore (P.42) A former archaeologist and interpretive planner, Indira is a journalist with a lifelong love of Scotland’s castles and wild places.

ALLAN CARSWELL Battle station Scotland (P.34) Since 2005, Allan has worked as a freelance curator and museum consultant specialising in British military history.

FIONA McKINLAY My day as a boatman (P.28) Fiona is a writer and photographer based in Central Scotland. Her work has appeared in many titles, including The Herald and Metro.

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 1

HISTORIC SCOTLAND

The First World War remembered 32 GREAT EVENTS

INSIDE

SUMMER 2014

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS SUMMER 2014

YOUR SUMMER STARTS HERE

LOOK INSIDE HISTORIC SCOTLAND SUMMER 2014

NORTHERN NEXUS

Exploring Orkney’s military past

THE LATEST COMPETITIONS AND NEWS

WWW.HISTORIC SCOTLAND.GOV.UK/MEMBER

THE A TO Z VISITORS’ GUIDE

GO EXPLORE! From battling knights to brilliant days out

00_HS_SUM14_COVERspine.indd 1

28/05/2014 14:34

Headquarters Historic Scotland Longmore House, Salisbury Place Edinburgh EH9 1SH www.historic-scotland.gov.uk Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999 hs.members@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Editorial enquiries hs.magazine@scotland.gsi.gov.uk Membership & CRM Manager Claire Bowie Assistant Membership Manager Morag Paterson Editor Jack Kibble-White jack@thinkpublishing.co.uk Deputy Editor Fiona McKinlay fiona.mckinlay@thinkpublishing. co.uk Design Matthew Ball, Alistair McGown Sub-editor Sian Campbell, Sam Bartlett Advertising Sales Daniel Haynes daniel.haynes@thinkpublishing. co.uk 0208 962 1257 Publisher John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk Think Woodside House, 20-23 Woodside Place Glasgow G3 7QF 0141 582 1280 Photography

All images provided by Historic Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785, email hs.images@ scotland.gsi.gov.uk, or visit www. historicscotlandimages.gov.uk Historic Scotland is an Agency within the Scottish Government and is directly responsible to Scottish Ministers for safeguarding the nation’s historic environment and promoting its understanding and enjoyment.

Historic Scotland is published four times a year, and is printed on UPM Finesse, which is made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials.

The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic Scotland. All information is correct at the time of going to press. Š Historic Scotland. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager and Historic Scotland.

Cover: Caerlaverock Castle

2 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

28 | On the water at Loch Leven

34 | Seaforth Highlanders

48

42 | The Earl’s Palace

EVENTS

With summer here, we bring you the best days out and attractions from right across Scotland

24 | Going for golf at St Andrews

19 | The Moray Firth REGULARS

PLACES TO VISIT

4 THE SCRIPT Catch up with news and what’s on, including Bannockburn Live 47 MEMBERSHIP 48 EVENTS 56 GUESS THE YEAR

Skara Brae P42

THIS SUMMER

FEATURES

Kilchurn Castle P17

Lochleven Castle P28

Arlington Baths Club P25 21 | Meet Renaissance Man

St Rule’s Tower P18

Edinburgh Castle P18 Greenknowe Tower P20

17 THE A to Z OF HISTORIC SCOTLAND Featuring the wonderful attractions found at our properties 24 GOING FOR GOLD With Glasgow hosting the Commonwealth Games this year, Scotland’s sporting buildings are put on a winners’ podium 28 MY DAY AS A BOATMAN Fiona McKinlay charts

a course over Loch Leven as skipper of the popular passenger ferry to the castle 34 BATTLE STATION SCOTLAND Allan Carswell reveals that things were not all quiet on the home front during the First World War 42 SHIP TO SHORE From Scapa Flow to Skara Brae, Indira Mann explores Orkney’s rich seafaring past WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 3

SCRIPT THE

PEOPLE, PLACES, RESEARCH, COMPETITIONS, AND MORE…

INCLUDING

The journey of Glasgow Cathedral’s construction materials Poaching: its lure and lore through the ages Great prizes to be won in our photography competition Improve your conservation skills at summer school

Bannockburn Live will take place on 28 and 29 June

STIRLING’S BIG WEEKEND

EVENTS Experience one of the most exciting weekends to take place in the Year of Homecoming 2014 BY the time you receive this issue of Historic Scotland, final preparations will be under way for a weekend of spectacular events in Stirling.

Kicking off the action in fine tune on Friday evening is a celebration of Scottish culture and heritage. Hundreds of pipers, drummers, Highland dancers and clan members, from Scotland and across 4 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

the world, will gather for Pipefest which starts with a parade from Stirling Castle Esplanade through the city.

Bannockburn Live will commemorate the 700th anniversary of the battle.

Hundreds of re-enactors from Scotland and across Europe will bring the battle to life with three electrifying performances each day.

And there’s a packed programme of cultural events, with Scottish singer and songwriter Dougie MacLean and Gaelic singer Julie Fowlis just two of the stars confirmed.

The Armed Forces Day National Event on Saturday 28 June will include flypasts by historic and modern aircraft, combat displays, marching

bands, military vehicles and much more.

There will also be a huge parade of serving personnel, cadets and veterans from Stirling Castle Esplanade to the events arena in the ancient royal parkland.

TO FIND OUT MORE www.pipefest.com www.bannockburnlive.com www.stirlingarmedforcesday.co.uk

THE FINAL FRAGMENT

EVENT

Enjoy afternoon tea at Edinburgh Castle

FEAST FOR 14 DAYS

EVENT Annual celebration of Scottish produce

Fragments of Red at Melrose Abbey

August sees the final event in the Fragments series take place at Glasgow Cathedral.

The Fragments project is a Year of Creative Scotland arts and music project for the Scottish Borders with its origins in the discovery of a rare and precious fragment of a medieval manuscript.

Led by Historic Scotland, in partnership with the Heart of Hawick Heritage Hub and with funding from Creative Scotland and Historic Scotland, the project has been taking inspiration from the words and music contained within the fragment.

Central to the project has been a series of events held at the great Border abbeys featuring new music created by renowned composers Michael Nyman and Grayston Ives.

The series comes to a close at Fragments of Gold at Glasgow Cathedral on Saturday 30 August and will feature a final composition from the internationally renowned artist Goldie.

For more, see page 53

SCOTTISH Food & Drink Fortnight takes place every September and is the annual celebration of Scotland’s fantastic produce.

To celebrate, on 14 September Historic Scotland is running a special four-course Homecoming Wine and Dine event at Edinburgh Castle.

On the menu will be delights such as braised Scottish lamb shank and Highland venison loin, not to mention specially chosen wines to accompany each course.

In addition, throughout September, Edinburgh Castle will play host to afternoon teas, offering up such delicacies as traditional Scottish macaroons and homemade scones with locally sourced clotted cream.

Meanwhile, the castle’s Redcoat Café and Jacobite Room have unveiled eyecatching new décor, including a display of quotes from Redcoat soldiers from with strong links to the castle.

The account of James Anton, QuartermasterSergeant, 42nd Royal

Highlanders, who was based at the castle in 1813, is illuminating, revealing that he ‘breakfasted about nine in the morning, on bread and milk; dined about two in the afternoon, on potatoes and a couple of salt herrings, boiled in the pot with the potatoes: a bottle of small-beer (commonly called swipes) and a slice of bread served for supper’.

TO FIND OUT MORE Scottish Food & Drink Fortnight runs from 6 to 21 September. For more information on the wine and dine and afternoon tea events at Edinburgh Castle, see page 55

YOU’VE GOT CHAIN MAIL

RESOURCE

HISTORIC Scotland has launched a brand new blog, The Chain Mail.

Regularly updated, it’s a visitors’ guide to the sights and sounds of Historic Scotland. It covers events, behind-the-scenes and the experience of going out and visiting our amazing locations. www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ blog

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 5

THE SCRIPT

WHERE GLASGOW CATHEDRAL CAME FROM

WOOD FORTHE ROOF (Luss)

Glasgow Cathedral

STONE (Lanarkshire)

ARCHITECTURE

With Glasgow Cathedral scheduled to play an important role in commemorating the 100th anniversary of the start of World War One, this magnificent 13th-century building is set to step into the spotlight once again. Historic Scotland’s Adrian Cox explains where some of the materials used in the construction of the cathedral originally came from.

BELL (Netherlands)

WINDOW GLASS (Munich)

THE CATHEDRAL’S SPECIAL MATERIALS

Stone

The cathedral is built from a type of carboniferous sandstone, locally known as ‘blond’ sandstone. This would have been quarried in the neighbourhood, or possibly in Lanarkshire. The dark colouration is due to a layer of pollutants from the city’s industrial past.

Wood for the roof

The original timbers may have come from the Loch Lomond area. In the late 13th century, the church arranged to fell and prepare timber in woodland around Luss. When the nave and choir roofs were restored to their present condition in the early 20th century, as much of the original oak as possible was reused.

Window glass

There are well over 100 windows in the cathedral, in a variety of shapes and sizes.

Much of the stained glass in the cathedral’s windows today was installed from the 1930s to the 1960s, replacing an earlier series of windows manufactured in the 1860s in Munich, Germany.

Old bell

A large bronze bell, the gift of Gavin Dunbar, Archbishop of Glasgow (1524-47) but recast in the 18th century, stands in the north-west corner of the nave, near the demolished tower in which it hung. An inscription says it was made in the Netherlands and ‘placed with great solemnity in the tower of the Cathedral’.

CONSERVATION SUMMER SCHOOL

EVENT Improve your conservation skills on this week-long course WOULD you like to increase your knowledge of traditional buildings? Historic Scotland’s Technical Conservation Summer School runs from 23 to 27 June at Forth Valley College Stirling Campus, and offers the opportunity to improve your skills by 6 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

obtaining specialist conservation training from leading experts. This weeklong course provides a solid introduction to traditional building materials and their repair and maintenance through a combination of lectures, field trips and hands-

on sessions. By the end of the week you will have insight into how to approach working with traditional buildings and their component materials.

FIND OUT MORE Discounted member tickets available by logging into www. historic-scotland.gov.uk/member

Summer school’s in

THE SCRIPT

THE CONNECTION

YOUNG MONARCHS

Poachers use a cleek and torch to hunt salmon

Alexander II

was born in Haddington, East Lothian, and took the throne at the age of 16 in 1214

David II

became King of Scots at only five years old when his father, Robert Bruce, died on 7 June 1329

SUPERSTOCK

James I

was just 11 and captive in England when his father died in 1406

Risks and rewards

Historic Scotland’s Natural Heritage Advisor, Bob Tevendale, on the history of illegal hunting for game and fish POACHING has a long and colourful history.

During the Middle Ages it was widely practised by impoverished peasants, seeking to augment a scanty diet – and at considerable personal risk. If you were caught, one punishment was the amputation of a hand. This barbaric penalty was later replaced with a fine – although the poacher’s dog would lose a paw.

Despite the hazards, poaching was seen as a necessary evil by ordinary folk, in a spirit akin to Robin Hood’s adventures. Peasants usually did not have the weapons, the skills or the free time to hunt – so they devised alternative ways to bring meat to their tables.

One simple technology was a snare – usually a loop of twine or wire staked to the ground. The unfortunate animal would inadvertently step into the loop, which would tighten around its leg when it attempted to move off, tethering it until the poacher returned.

One of the most ingenious methods I have heard of was employed for bagging partridge.

This made use of a dog with a lantern tied to its neck. The dog was

VIEW FROM OUTDOORS

sent into a field of stubble, where it would range quietly until it found some birds, then stand stiffly and point to where they lay. The light dazzled or frightened the birds, so it was not difficult to clap the net over them.

In the 1700s, as urban populations grew, subsistence poaching became a more specialised activity. Gangs of organised poachers often engaged in fierce battles with gamekeepers, and mantraps and spring guns were hidden in the underbrush to catch intruders.

This situation was the backdrop to the infamous Cumnock poaching riot of 1833. Poachers operating around the Ayrshire town of Cumnock sent much of their catch to Glasgow, but sold some of it from a local pub – much appreciated by the townsfolk.

When three members of the gang were apprehended by police and interred in Cumnock, the local populace rioted. The ‘mob’ forced its way into the room where the poachers were being held, and in the ensuing mêlée the gamekeeper’s gun went off, killing one of the constables guarding the men. Two of the rioters were jailed as a result, while the gamekeeper faced a criminal trial but was acquitted. Before long, the poachers freed during this escapade had resumed their illegal trade.

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 7

THE SCRIPT

WIN

A POCKET FULL OF HISTORY

FIRST WORLD WAR BOOK

APP The launch of Historic Scotland’s new app brings essential information to your fingertips HISTORIC Scotland has recently launched its mobile app, available on iPhones and Android smart phones. It’s your essential download for inspiration on great days out at Historic Scotland attractions and events.

You can find out which Historic Scotland locations are near you now,

search for properties by theme (looking for the best sites for peace and quiet?

The app has some suggestions!), and even peruse possible itineraries. It’s also a great way to keep up to date with Historic Scotland news.

Download the new app at your relevant app store, search for ‘Historic Scotland’.

WIN a copy of Carlton Books’ First World War Remembered by Gary Sheffield. The book captures the wide sweep of the conflict, describing the development of the fighting from 1914-18, and spotlighting some of the obscure but important actions as well as the major battles and the soldiers who fought them. For your chance to win a copy, answer the following question: PRIZE QUESTION What was the real name of Germany’s infamous pilot, The Red Baron?

Post your answer and details to First World War Remembered Competition, Think Scotland, 20-23 Woodside Place, Glasgow G3 7QF, or email hs.comps@ thinkpublishing.co.uk (with ‘First World War Remembered Competition’ in the subject line). The closing date for entries is 18 July.

WIN FOR ORCADIAN YOUNGSTERS’ JOINED-UP THINKING Teenagers from Orkney have been named the Sunday Mail Young Scot Awards Heritage Heroes 2014. The Connect Project, which won the award, is a group of young people who help preserve Scotland’s most valuable history, the memories, dialect and lives of its older generation.

8 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

SPRING COMPETITION ANSWER AND WINNER BIRLIN BOOKS The ship that carried Shackleton to his 1908 expedition of the Antarctic was called Nimrod. Congratulations to Sheila Cullander, Bexhill-on-Sea

SUNDAY MAIL

Connect Project members

5% DISCOUNT

F O R H I S T O R I C S C O T L A N D R E A D E R S , F A M I LY & F R I E N D S

2015 NOW ON SALE

AWARD-WINNING VIKING RIVER CRUISES FROM ONLY £1,145PP

Rhine Discovery

Romantic Danube

Elegant Elbe

Prices from only £1,195pp

Prices from only £1,145pp

Prices from only £1,695pp

8 days, 6 guided tours Amsterdam • Cologne • Basel Departing December 2015

8 days, 6 guided tours Passau • Vienna • Budapest Departing December 2015

10 days, 9 guided tours Berlin • Dresden • Prague Departing March 2015

SAVE £1,000 Portraits of Southern France

Prices from only £1,295pp 8 days, 6 guided tours Chalon-sur-Saône • Lyon • Avignon Departing November 2015

PER PERSON Fly from Edinburgh and Glasgow at no extra cost

Imperial Jewels of China

Prices from only £2,395pp 14 days, 11 guided tours Shanghai • Xian • Beijing Departing September 2015

Many more dates & itineraries available – call for details All Viking river cruises include: • • • •

Return scheduled economy class flights from the UK Fly from selected local airports at no extra cost Deluxe ensuite stateroom with river view All on board meals

• Specially-selected house wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner on board • Exciting excursion programme including visits to UNESCO World Heritage sites • All port charges, airport taxes and transfers

Book by 30 June 2014. For further information call Northumbria Travel on 01670 829922 Visit www.northumbriatravel.com or email us at info@northumbriatravel.com 82 Front Street East, Bedlington, Northumberland, NE22 5AB Terms and conditions: Holidays are subject to availability and can change without prior notice. All details correct at time of going to press. Prices shown are per person and based on two sharing the lowest grade stateroom. Prices quoted are including £1,000 per person discount, but excluding additional 5% discount. Gratuities are not included. Complimentary wine, beer and soft drinks served with lunch and dinner are not applicable to hotel stays. Some cruises also operate in the reverse direction. All bookings must be made by the 30 June 2014. A Chinese visa is required for Imperial Jewels of China. This can be arranged through Viking at an approximate cost of £109 per person. This price is subject to change. ABTA V924X, ATOL 3124. Single supplements apply.

THE SCRIPT

CURL UP WITH OUR NEW BOOK PUBLICATION Buildings title highlights sporting venues ABDIE Curling Club House Scotland’s Sporting is a small stone-built curling Buildings house on the edge of Lindores Loch in Fife.

It was constructed in 1871 for the Abdie Curling Club, and although its roof was originally thatched with reeds from the loch, the hut is now Bowling and Skittles roofed with corrugated iron.

The simple interior remains much as it was when first built, with a small fireplace, shelves for storing the The new Historic Scotland curling stones, a book features fantastic table and benches. sporting venues This remarkable B-listed building is a reminder of the popularity of curling in the FIND OUT MORE 19th century and is just one of For more on many amazing locations, Scotland’s sporting heritage and details on featured in Scotland’s how to order Sporting Buildings, a new Scotland’s Sporting Historic Scotland book.

Buildings, see page24 28 | bowling and skittles

Abdie Curling Hut

IN THIS YEAR

1898

ALAMY, NICK HAYNES

l Specialising in shortbread, Joseph Walker opens his bakery.

l The Culloden Viaduct opens, creating a direct route between Inverness and Aviemore.

l Colonel James Ogston acquires Kildrummy Castle and begins restoration work.

l At the height of the whisky boom, the Dallasmore distillery is built. It would be renamed Dallas Dhu in 1899.

REMEMBER… FOR reasons beyond our control we sometimes have to take a last-minute decision to close one of our properties for the day. For the latest status go to www.historicscotland.gov. uk/hsclosure or search Twitter using the hash tag #hsclosure

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 11

CluB, Burntisland Bowling Burntis 123 Kinghorn road, Listed Category B

the Burntislan Mr D. Ferguson designed Recreation Pavilion for the Burntisland 1893 and cost was opened on 2 August the three ten the pavilion also serviced green itse lay to the north. The bowling opened in July 1892.

w Every county town was provided of bowling-green for the diversion All classe in the summer evenings. and it w sented among the players, to take persons of different ranks fo game. A bowling-green usually of coun policy or pleasure grounds ladi these private bowling-greens rendering in the amusement, thus more attractive.

Thomas Somerville, Minister about 18141

of Je

single o It is impossible to trace a but the ancient sport of bowling, throu flat green bowls, as played in S is shaped by its development c the sixteenth to the nineteenth has winter cousin, curling, bowls acro of widespread participation variants and gender. Numerous the nineteenth century, includin

bulleting (distance road-bowling roun target), pennystanes (flat, rowbow a target on the ground), on a su allay bowlis (alley bowls mark or grass towards a feather to tles).2 The earliest reference to sport in Scotland is thought James iV played ‘lang bowlis’ Coun An Act of Edinburgh Town yairdi the playing of ‘bowling in gr James Vi created a bowling 15 Dunfermline Abbey in about Ga referred to his friend James Threnodi Muses his poem The Pal estimates for Dunfermline wark to the dismantling of ‘the all probably an indoor skittles Denmark.6 Royal enthusiasm had an impact on the widespr gent game by the nobility and seventeenth century. Almost c prestigious townhouse was

scotland’s spo

THE SCRIPT

SNAP TO IT!

PHOTOGRAPHY Announcing the 2014 Historic Scotland photo competition OUR popular photography competition is back for another year, giving you the chance to show off more of your incredible shots of Historic Scotland properties and their surroundings. Whether you like to fill the boot with L lenses before an outing, or just have a camera phone and a good eye, we want to see what you can do! We welcome entries from our younger members too.

HOW TO ENTER Please ensure each entry is labelled with your name, address, telephone number, membership number and email, and the name of the property where the photograph was taken. You must be 8 or over to enter and all entries by under-16s should be marked accordingly.

To enter email your photographs to hs.photos@

Inchcolm Abbey (Whitney Dooley) and Stirling Castle (Fraser Hetherington) from last year’s competition

thinkpublishing.co.uk, or send digital images on CD to Historic Scotland Photography Competition, Think Scotland, 20-23 Woodside Place, Glasgow G3 7QF. The closing date for entries is 17 October 2014. Images will be judged by a panel made up of the Historic Scotland membership and photographic teams, and the editor and publisher of Historic Scotland magazine.

CATEGORIES ■ JUNIOR Photographs taken in and around Historic Scotland properties by children under the age of 16.

■ PROPERTIES Shots of, or showing individual features of, castles, cathedrals, chapels, barracks, mills or any other properties under Historic Scotland’s care.

■ WILDLIFE Snaps of the natural world in and around our properties.

FIVE TIPS TO HELP YOU TAKE THE PERFECT SHOT GO WIDE Shoot wide angle and take a few steps back to let your landmark be elegantly framed by its surroundings. This will add context to your snap.

1

TAKE A RAIN CHECK The sky might not be your main focus, but it can change everything. A blue sky will brighten up any scene, and the sun can be your free fancy lighting set-up if you

2

12 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

catch it in the right spot. Stormy skies can look spectacular – just make sure you’re ready to run for cover.

MIRROR IMAGE Look for reflections in lochs, windows or even puddles – these can give you great, creative shots with a surreal and dreamy feel.

3

KNOW YOUR SUBJECT Soaking up knowledge

4

about the property you are visiting and hoping to memorably photograph can give a spark of unique inspiration that no amount of technical knowhow can produce.

RIGHT TIME, RIGHT PLACE They say the best camera is the one you have with you. Who knows when you might see a pair of squirrels in medieval dress jousting on ducks’ backs – so be prepared, even if you’re only wielding a well-worn camera phone.

5

WIN AN IPAD MINI Each category winner will receive a year’s renewal membership to Historic Scotland. The overall winner will also receive an iPad mini.

Some of the photographs taken by entrants to the competition may feature in a future Historic Scotland calendar.

The winners and runners-ups will be announced in the spring 2015 issue of Historic Scotland.

ORKNEY DIGS IN FOR THE WIN AWARD Noltland named Rescue Dig of the Year THE archaeological dig at the Links of Noltland on the coast of Orkney was named Rescue Dig of the Year at the Current Archaeology Awards in London.

The site has shed new light on life in prehistoric Orkney and comprises more than 20 buildings comparable to Skara Brae.

Archaeologists had to work in the face of rapid coastal and wind erosion that threatened to destroy the site’s secrets.

The dune system that has protected the site for millennia is depleting and in 2005 the Neolithic and Bronze Age settlement was

Alan AlanCowper’s Cowper’s picture pictureofofAberdour Aberdour Castle Castlewas wasaa runner-up runner-upinin2011 2011 RULES 1. An entrant can submit a maximum of three photographs.

2. Entries must be taken in or near Historic Scotland locations.

3. All images must be submitted as digital files.

4. Digital images should be high resolution and submitted by email or on CD. Each image should not exceed 6MB in size.

5. Images may be enhanced only to remove spots or scratches.

6. All entries are sent at the photographer’s risk and Historic Scotland cannot accept liability for damage or loss. Entries will not be returned to entrants. All photos must be legally obtained, with permission if appropriate.

7. Entrants must be the sole

author and owner of copyright for all images entered.

8. Copyright in all images submitted for this competition remains with the respective entrants. Where an image is used in the magazine or Historic Scotland calendar, the photographer will be credited. However, in consideration of entering the competition, each entrant grants Historic Scotland a licence to feature competition images on the website or in the publication or promotional material connected to Historic Scotland.

9. The competition is not open to employees of Historic Scotland or Think.

10. Winners will be notified by 10 April 2015.

11. Historic Scotland reserves the right to cancel this competition or alter any of the rules, if necessary.

Holding a find from the dig

revealed. In response, Historic Scotland launched a campaign of conservation works and rescue excavations tackled by EASE Archaeology.

Discoveries have included the ‘Orkney Venus’ as well as three other figurines, grooved ware pottery and numerous decorative and domestic objects.

Archaeologists at work on the Links of Noltland site

12. If the winner is unable to be contacted after reasonable attempts, Historic Scotland reserves the right to either offer the prize to a runner up or to reoffer the prize in any future competition.

13. These rules are governed by the laws of Scotland.

14. The decision of the judges is final.

15. The first prize includes an iPad mini. The prize is subject to availability. If, for any reason, it becomes unavailable we reserve the right to supply a suitable alternative prize of similar value.

16. Entrants must be a Historic Scotland member or, in the Junior category, their parent/guardian must be a Historic Scotland member.

17. Historic Scotland photos submitted for the competition may be featured in Historic Scotland’s calendars.

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 13

CUNINGAR The Scots term for a warren, the Hospitallers farmed rabbits on this rise, a very lucrative business in the medieval era

BELL TOWER Constructed in the 1400s, this was part of the church’s expansion as its lands grew

NAVE Converted into the local parish church during the Reformation in the 16th century, it was later destroyed to make way for a new kirk

SANCTUARY STONE This stone marks the centre of an ‘area of sanctuary’, which had a diameter of some two miles. The stone is thought to pre-date the preceptory, suggesting the area was an ancient place of religious importance

ALAMY, RCAHMS, AD MESKENS, KIM TRAYNOR

CLOISTER Part of the site’s 15th-century expansion - only the foundations remain

TIMELINE BEFORE 1153 David I grants Torphichen to the Hospitallers, who he invited to Scotland in 1132

14 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

1298

1312

William Wallace, Guardian of Scotland, stays here prior to the Battle of Falkirk

The Hospitallers are given property seized from the Knights Templar, allowing them to expand throughout the country

THE SCRIPT

SPOTLIGHT ON

TORPHICHEN PRECEPTORY

Scottish HQ of a holy order formed in 11th-century Jerusalem The preceptory’s remaining fabric includes its 15th-century bell tower

FARM The area was not just one of religious significance, and the farm was essential for the survival of the site, allowing it to provide for itself

LYING in the gently undulating countryside of West Lothian, Torphichen Preceptory was one of medieval Scotland’s great centres of power.

First built in the 1140s, the preceptory was constructed around an early medieval church.

Until the 1560s it was the home of the Scottish branch of the Knights Hospitaller of the Order of St John of Jerusalem.

Sir William Wallace, Guardian of Scotland, briefly took up residence at the preceptory, following victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge.

The Hospitallers had fled, having supported the English.

The order returned during Robert the Bruce’s reign and they continued to work, pray and administer their Scottish estates from there until 1564, when the Hospitallers disbanded in Scotland.

The last preceptor, Sir James Sandilands, gave up the property to Mary, Queen of Scots, who sold it back to him and made him Lord Torphichen.

The site then became a parish kirk, with the church rebuilt on the demolished nave.

1513

1564

1756

1947

James IV demands Scotland’s Hospitallers be independent of the order’s English section

The order is disbanded in Scotland. Sir James Sandilands, the last preceptor, is made Lord Torphichen

The nave and domestic buildings are destroyed, making way for a new kirk to be built on the site

The central tower is reroofed and the site passes into the care of Historic Scotland

EXPLORE

TORPHICHEN PRECEPTORY

EDINBURGH

Torphichen Preceptory is in West Lothian, off the B792 from the A706

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 15

THE

ABCDEF GHIJKLM NOPQRST UVWXYZ OF

HISTORIC

SCOTLAND

WITH SUMMER NOW HERE, WE TAKE YOU THE LENGTH AND BREADTH OF THE COUNTRY ON AN ALPHABETICAL TOUR OF ATTRACTIONS, ACTIVITIES, ANIMALS AND ARCHITECTURE WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 17

Kilchurn Castle

ABBOT’S HOUSE

The One o’Clock Gun, Edinburgh Castle

St Andrews

A

Famous for its association with a certain Declaration, Arbroath Abbey was founded in 1178 by King William I, ‘the Lion’.

It fell into ruin after the Reformation in 1560 but the Abbot’s House on the property is one of the most complete such residences in Britain.

BANG! The One o’Clock Gun is famously fired daily (except on Sundays, Good Friday and Christmas Day) at 1pm from Edinburgh Castle.

This tradition originated as a signal for ships two miles away in the Firth of Forth. Be ready for it, or that boom will give you the fright of your life!

18 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

CLIMB THE TOWER C

St Rule’s Tower, standing tall beside the ruins of St Andrews’ medieval cathedral, offers incredible views of the town, the shore and beyond.

The cathedral itself was the largest ever built in Scotland, but now lies largely in ruin.

SUPERSTOCK, SHUTTERSTOCK

B

SUMMER SIGHTS

ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE E

Kilchurn Castle’s setting on a rocky peninsula of Loch Awe is not the only thing that’s striking. In the mid18th century the castle was struck by lightning, and fell into ruin after significant storm damage. A turret tower was knocked over and still lies in the courtyard in which it fell.

The fascinating ruin was initially constructed in the 15th century, but saw many additions throughout its life.

For around a century

and a half, it was a base for Clan Campbell. During this time, the four fine angle-turrets on the top of the tower house were added.

Kilchurn Castle was later converted into a garrison stronghold, with the old tower house made into accommodation for two hundred men.

A barracks built along the north side of the courtyard remains largely intact, and is considered the oldest surviving purposebuilt barracks on the British mainland.

G

GARGOYLES

There are ornate gargoyles and other stone carvings aplenty at Melrose Abbey. One depicting a pig playing the bagpipes is a particular highlight.

Ring of Brodgar

HENGE H

St Andrews

DOLPHIN SPOTTING D

There may be plenty of scenery on offer at Fort George, north-east of Inverness, but why not enjoy a bit of local wildlife too? Bottlenose dolphins are often spotted in the Moray Firth, and the ramparts of Fort George are a great place from which to catch a glimpse.

FOR KING AND COUNTRY Charlotte of Mecklenburg

F

A five-sided artillery fort with bastions projecting from each corner, Fort Charlotte was built in 1665 to protect the Sound of Bressay in Shetland from the Dutch, but was taken by them and burned in 1673. The fort was rebuilt in 1781 and was named after George III’s queen.

Lochranza Castle

A roughly circular or oval-shaped flat area enclosed by a boundary earthwork, is called a ‘henge’.

Perhaps the most famous example is Stonehenge.

The third largest stone circle in the UK, the Ring of Brodgar and its associated henge stands proud within the Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site.

ISLAND CASTLE I

The isle of Arran, which is located 14 miles off the Ayrshire coast and is accessible by ferry from Ardrossan, boasts an impressive selection of Historic Scotland properties.

The grandest of all is Lochranza Castle – a 13th-century hall house with a 16th-century tower conversion.

It had two entrances – a ‘tradesman’s entrance’ at ground level and a ‘front door’ at a higher level, which was probably reached by ladder for protection.

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 19

Edzell Castle’s walled garden

JUPITER J

The walled garden at Edzell Castle contains carved panels depicting the Seven Cardinal Virtues, the Seven Liberal Arts and the Seven Planetary Deities – including Jupiter.

KEEPER OF THE LIGHT K

The Kinnaird Head Lighthouse was originally a fine 16th-century castle, converted in 1787 to incorporate the first lighthouse built by the Commissioners of the Northern Lighthouses. Mr James Park, Ship Master, was appointed the first ‘Keeper of the light’ at one shilling per night.

L-PLAN L

Properties built in the shape of an L (as seen from above), such as Greenknowe Tower in the Scottish Borders, are a Greenknowe Tower

20 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

common feature of Scotland’s historic landscape. One theory on this popular design is that it offers extra protection to the building entrance from wouldbe attackers.

MOAT M

Few castles look as majestic or magical in their moats than Caerlaverock.

The distinctively triangular medieval stronghold sits close to the border with England and, as such, was a common victim of conflict.

PREHISTORIC LIVING P

Well preserved by the sand that covered it for thousands of years, the prehistoric village at Skara Brae paints a vivid picture of Neolithic life. With stone furniture set in single-room houses made of tightly fitting stone slabs, multiple houses were linked by covered passages. Many artefacts were found, none of them weapons, suggesting a peaceful life for settlers here.

0

OIL Oil paintings from the National Galleries of Scotland are among the masterpieces on display at the magnificent Duff House mansion.

Jarlshof in Shetland

QUACK! Q

Ducks, swans and an array of other feathered friends can be seen (and heard) at Linlithgow Loch – the watery neighbour of Linlithgow Palace. The birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots was a popular calling point for 15th and 16th-century royals travelling between Edinburgh Castle and Stirling Castle.

After James VI’s coronation as James I of England, the royal residences moved to London and various properties in Scotland were suddenly used a lot less frequently than before. It fell into ruin after a fire in 1746.

The Palace provides a spectacular backdrop to the annual jousting event on Linlithgow Palace Peel.

RENAISSANCE MEN R

SHUTTERSTOCK

A royal stronghold from at least the early 1100s, Stirling Castle owes its current form to the work of three Stewart kings, James IV, James V and James VI, during the Renaissance era.

The elaborately carved stone walls of the Royal Palace, and its re-created colourful interior décor, were typical of this time.

NORSE SETTLEMENT N

The remarkable Viking Age settlement at Jarlshof in Shetland was discovered after a 19th-century storm tore away cliffs, revealing remains not only from that era, but from many others. Excavation unearthed various buildings and relics that reveal an impressive picture of the Norse settlers’ lives.

Thousands of years of island

history are told at the Jarlshof site, with remains of Neolithic, Bronze Age and Iron Age settlements painting a picture of pre-Viking times. Wander the site with an audio tour for maximum fulfilment.

The name Jarlshof actually originates from Walter Scott’s 1821 novel, The Pirate, and pre-dates the discovery of the Norse settlement at the site.

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 21

HISTORY

VIOLENT HISTORY V

In the 16th century, a nobleman attempting to regain control of Crossraguel Abbey used some questionable negotiation tactics to do so: capturing the commendator, binding and roasting him over a fire until he signed the deeds.

Y

YETT

WINTERFELL W

If castles were celebrities, Doune Castle would be on our A list. Playing the role of Camelot in Monty Python and the Holy Grail back in the 1970s, Doune also starred in the pilot episode of Game of Thrones, as Winterfell. It has recently been used as a location for new bigbudget sci-fi drama Outlander.

A feature predominantly found in Scottish castles (such as Balvenie), a yett is a wrought iron EXCAVATION X Visitors are welcome at gate or grille the award-winning used to protect archaeological excavation at doorways Links of Noltland in Orkney.

Historic Scotland is actively from attack.

STORNOWAY OF LIFE

Restored Blackhouse on Lewis

S

22 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

THOUSAND-YEAR LEGEND T

More than one thousand years ago, some believe the ancient rulers of Galloway made their home on Threave Island, but no evidence of their fortress remains. The tower that now stands in its place was built after 1369 for Sir Archibald Douglas, better known as Archibald ‘the Grim’.

UNICORN U

Few impressions of the majestic creature, popular in Celtic mythology and featured on the Kingdom of Scotland’s coat of arms, stand as tall and proud as the one atop the Preston Market Cross.

ZERO! Z

As a member, you pay nothing for admission to a Historic Scotland property.

Don’t forget, you can take advantage of special offers and discounts. In addition, new members can enjoy half-price entry to English Heritage, CADW: Heritage in Wales and Manx National Heritage attractions; renewal and life members can enjoy them all for free!

SHUTTERSTOCK

The preserved Blackhouse in Arnol is a fascinating relic of traditional island life.

Unlike most modern houses, a blackhouse would typically provide shelter for livestock as well as people. Constructed from stone with a thatched roof and a peat fire in the centre of the living room, Hebridean blackhouses like this one were still used as homes as recently as the 1960s.

Without a chimney, the thatched roof of a blackhouse would become thick with smoke. One advantage of this, though, was that it killed bugs.

A whitehouse – the name given to the new houses built in the early 20th century to replace blackhouses due to changes in housing regulations – can also be seen across the road.

involved in excavations at many of our sites.

NEW SCOTTISH BOOKS NEW

SAVE 45%

SAVE 30%

£3.50

£8.95

NEW & IN STOCK

NEW & IN STOCK

NEW & IN STOCK

SCOTLAND’S BEST CASTLES THE CASTLES OF GLASGOW AND STATELY HOMES AND THE CLYDE 2ND EDITION

272pp col + b&w illus maps pbk 216x138mm 96pp b&w illus maps pbk 180X110mm NEW. 85 of the best romantic ruins, iconic NEW. Informative wee book on Scotland’s castles, elegant palaces and magnificent greatest military victory – the Battle of Bannockburn on 23-24 June 1314. All about Sir mansions, all of which can be visited. 129 colour photos plus 174 b&w illustrations, images of William Wallace, Robert the Bruce and the run up inside and out. Architecture and ownership. to the battle. Battle plans and aftermath. Maps.

Visitor info and websites. Maps.

Places to visit with visitor info.

NEW

£8.95

NEW

NEW 1314: BATTLE OF BANNOCKBURN

SAVE 30%

272pp b&w illus maps pbk 216x138mm NEW. Greatly expanded and revised edition of this popular title. Crammed with information on 450 castles in Glasgow, Lanarkshire, Renfrewshire and Dunbartonshire. Many new sites. Detailed family and site histories.

85 b&w illus. Maps.

SAVE 30%

SAVE 50%

SAVE 45%

£8.95

£7.50

£7.50

NEW & IN STOCK

IN STOCK

IN STOCK

MARY, QUEEN OF SCOTS AND ALL HER GHOSTS

SCOTLAND THE GRAVE

HAUNTED PLACES OF SCOTLAND 2ND EDITION

96pp b&w illus pbk 180x110mm 192pp col + b&w illus maps pbk 216x138mm ALL THREE BOOKS FOR £7.50 IN TOTAL 328pp b&w illus maps pbk 216x138mm Scotland’s Ghastly Ghosts (intriguing NEW. Fascinating exploration into Mary’s tragic A gazetteer of 700+ haunted abbeys, churches, supernatural tales from contemporary sources), life, cruel death and enduring legacy, plus her battlefields, hotels, pubs, hospitals, theatres, Scotland’s Wicked Witches (fascinating accounts 20+ ghost stories. Sixteen pages of full-colour castles and stately homes. Detailed stories to portraits, death masks and photos. 58 b&w illus. from notorious trials), and Scotland’s Bloody Ballads fragmentary tales. Comprehensive indexes, ghost Sixty palaces, cathedrals, castles and hotels to (old ballads of untimely death and tragedy). walks and paranormal investigators.

AVAILABLE SINGLY FOR £3.95 EACH visit in Britain, with visitor info.

Useful visitor info.

HOW TO ORDER…

Simply send a cheque or postal order made out to Goblinshead with your name, delivery address and contact phone no./email, along with the titles you want, to:

GOBLINSHEAD 130B INVERESK ROAD MUSSELBURGH EH21 7AY T 0131 665 2894 E goblinshead@sol.co.uk

All titles in stock as of 7 May 2014. Usually dispatched within three working days. Prices quoted include postage & packing plus discount (to the UK only: overseas on request). Sorry, no credit, debit or charge cards (to keep book prices as low as possible).

O U R H E R I TA G E

GOING FOR GOLD 5 OF SCOTLAND’S STUNNING SPORTING STRUCTURES

ROYAL AND ANCIENT GOLF CLUB, ST ANDREWS Built 1853 Listed category A give plenty of scope for inspiration.

The R & A clubhouse is In 1866 the Perthshire architect not only special because John Laurie Fogo extended of its proud position in golfing history, but also for the main clubroom, the Big Room, adding a large bay window and the influence its architectural flanking cast-iron verandas (since design and facilities have had on removed) looking over the first tee clubhouses around the world. and 18th green - a feature that has A century and a half of alterations by numerous architects often been replicated elsewhere.

1

24 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

›

I

SUPERSTOCK, TOM DONALD, RCAHMS

n the year that Scotland plays host to the Commonwealth Games for the third time, Historic Scotland has unveiled the findings of Scotland’s Sporting Buildings, a study and celebration of the extraordinary range and outstanding quality of architecture on our sporting skyline.

A BRIEF HISTORY Many of Scotland’s oldest and most traditional sports can be traced to more popular and anarchic game-playing.

Early versions of golf, shinty and football were typically played in kirkyards, streets and on public commons in the 15th to 18th centuries.

Curling was particularly popular with farmers, masons and others whose work was disrupted by hard frost and freezing temperatures.

In the 19th century sporting societies proliferated and town populations swelled, prompting clubs to find spaces, acquire properties or build facilities.

Some of the country’s most iconic sporting buildings were designed in the 20th century for larger sporting events.

Edinburgh’s Royal Commonwealth Pool was initially built for the 1970 Commonwealth Games, but was always intended ultimately for public use.

ARLINGTON BATHS CLUB, GLASGOW Built 1871 Listed category A

2

The pool at the Arlington Baths is the oldest surviving private indoor pool in Britain. The Glasgow Swimming Bath Company was established in 1870 to construct the baths for

›

£1,700, and a swimming club was formed to lease the baths at 5 per cent of the capital cost per annum.

The architect was John Burnet Senior, the father of John James Burnet, who later designed the baths at Drumsheugh in Edinburgh.

A novel feature of the Arlington Baths, recorded in the Dundee Advertiser, was that ’by means of the boiler, the large swimming bath will be heated in winter, so that swimming can be practised at any time of the year’.

GALA FAIRYDEAN FOOTBALL CLUB STAND, GALASHIELS Built 1963-64 Listed category A

3

Gala Fairydean moved to its current ground at Nether Road in 1962, taking over the site from the Galashiels Rovers Rugby Club. It was another two years before the club managed to raise the necessary £25,000 for a 620-seat replacement stand.

The designer of this sculptural structure was the Yorkshire architect Peter Womersley, who for most of his career lived in Gattonside near Melrose. Ove Arup & Partners provided engineering expertise.

›

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 25

O U R H E R I TA G E

Grange’s pavilion was built in the late 19th century

GRANGE CRICKET CLUB PAVILION, EDINBURGH Built c.1892-95 Listed category A

4

Three members of the Speculative Society (an Edinburgh public speaking and literary society dating from 1764) – Edward Horsman, David Mure and James Moncrieff – founded Grange Cricket Club in 1832 on rough pasture belonging to Sir Thomas Dick Lauder at Grange House on the south side of Edinburgh.

By 1871 the club began the lease on its current ground off Raeburn Place and constructed a small brick pavilion.

›

ROYAL TENNIS COURT, FALKLAND PALACE Built 1539-41 Listed category A

5

Edinburgh’s Dean of Guild Court approved designs for a new pavilion by Cunningham, Blyth & Westland on 22 September 1892. Its estimated cost is recorded as £1,400.

The roofed viewing gallery overlooks the open-air court

Scotland’s earliest surviving work of sporting architecture and the oldest tennis court still in use anywhere in the world. The master of works records for James V’s remodelling of the palace identify the master mason John Brownhill in connection with the tennis court project.

The high walls of the court were never roofed, but it had a ‘toofall’, ‘penthouse’ or ‘pentice’ – a lean-to roofed viewing gallery along two sides of the interior.

The accounts detail the construction of hazards, which possibly include the four openings (‘lunes’) in the back wall.

›

The bridge carries the Kelvin Way across the River Kelvin within the area of Kelvingrove Park

Historic Scotland has published a book that celebrates the nation’s purpose-built sporting architecture and covers some of the country’s most ancient and popular sports, including golf, James V had a tennis court added

26 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

curling and horseracing. It is the first ever architectural guide to sporting buildings and tells the history of sports through the structures that were built for them.

Scotland’s Sporting Buildings

Scotland’s Sporting Buildings costs £11.99.

Members can receive a 20 per cent discount and free P&P through Booksource (0845 370 0067, orders@ booksource.net), quoting HISTORIC 20.

MADELON KORTENAAR

SPORTING BUILDINGS BROUGHT TO BOOK

season 2014 | 15

dramatic by nature

La Cenerentola

Rossini

Inés de Castro

James MacMillan

Orfeo ed Euridice Gluck

Jenůfa

Janáček

Il trovatore

Verdi

Macbeth Verdi

Madama Butterfly Puccini

WORLD PREMIERE

Anamchara – Songs of Friendship

Pippa Murphy & Alexander McCall Smith

Book now at

scottishopera.org.uk Registered in Scotland Number SCO37531 Scottish Charity Number SCO19787

TM

the future is electric

TM

Scottish Opera is core funded by

MALCOLM COCHRANE

28 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

BEHIND THE SCENES

9am

It’s almost time to head off, and I am scrabbling around the flat, filling an extra bag with miscellaneous items I somehow think I might need. Wellies?

Gloves? Spare shoes? A full change of clothes? How likely is it that I will fall overboard? And if that happens, do I really want my iPhone with me? I know, I’ll put it in one of those zip-lock food bags; that’ll protect it until the divers come to rescue it from the bottom of the loch. What, you don’t think they’d do that? But… but… it’s my iPhone!

9.30AM Packed and ready, I meet the photographer and we hit the road. He

has brought a change of shoes too, and seems genuinely interested in my innovative iPhone protection system.

Maybe I’m not completely crazy.

10.30AM We arrive in Kinross, and drive through the quiet backstreets to Lochleven Castle’s ticket office. Simon Lennox, the Monument Manager, is busy booking in a queue of passengers for the morning’s journeys. He has saved us a spot on the 11.15 service, and hands me a ticket. Although there’s a bit of a breeze, the forecast is looking good after a dreary weekend.

11.10AM Ray Twyford, a Historic Scotland steward and one of Lochleven Castle’s boatmen, arrives back at the jetty and starts to load his next lot of

passengers. The property has three boats (although the third is usually saved for emergencies) that can each take 12 visitors. The cargo for my first trip is three families with children aged between one and eight. Ray gives the full safety briefing and ensures the boat is evenly balanced before we set off.

‘Don’t try and touch the water,’ he announces. ‘I can tell you it’s cold and it’s wet.’

During the journey he begins my tuition: ‘Because the boat has a large cuddy (sheltered area), if the weather’s bad, everyone squeezes into it. Then it goes along like a submarine. This means it’s nose down. And this means it’s very difficult to stop and very difficult to steer.

MY DAY AS A

BOATMAN It’s a life on the waves for FIONA McKINLAY as she joins the stewards who ferry passengers from Kinross across the water to Lochleven Castle PHOTOS BY EUAN ROBERTSON

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 29

Lochleven Castle: small but with plenty to explore

A trip to the island takes just 10 minutes

The water comes over the top and I end up drenched. You ask people to move back to balance the boat, but as soon as they start getting wet, they crowd forward. Generally, my job’s about making sure we get across the loch safely and everyone enjoys themselves.’

11.15AM The 10-minute trip takes a dogleg route to avoid a shallow part of the loch. I take the steering wheel and follow Ray’s instructions, aiming for landmarks in the distance until reaching the appropriate point to turn inward. ‘If you can drive a car, you can drive a boat,’ he says. But I can’t drive a car…

He tells me: ‘I’m the only member of the crew who is a commercially certified skipper. I did that myself because I’ve got my own yacht and my own boat, so I’d done quite a lot of boaty-type stuff before.’

11.25AM We reach the island safely and Ray moors the boat. It looks like

Fiona models a ‘deployed’ lifejacket (left) before learning how to ‘drive’ a boat

BEHIND THE SCENES

Moored with a ‘round turn and two half hitches’

If you can drive a car, you can drive a boat… but I can’t drive a car

quite a physical task. It’s probably beyond my abilities, but I resolve to enquire later.

11.30AM The castle is small, but there are many nooks and crannies to explore. It’s hard to imagine from what’s left what it was like for Mary, Queen of Scots when she was imprisoned initially, in the Glassin Tower, but an illustration on an information sign shows how it would have looked fully furnished.

The Main Hall, says Simon, was where Mary Queen of Scots and John Knox debated the place of women in society and religion. It’s fascinating to imagine them discussing issues so long ago that are still pertinent today.

NOON I look out from the hall back towards the mainland and see Ray’s boat approaching. He comes up to the castle and shows me one of his favourite spots before we set sail again.

‘We do maintenance on the island a couple of times a week, and come out before any of the visitors are here. It’s great because you do all the things like picking up goose poo and cleaning the loos, but then you can find 10 minutes to sit here in the sunshine, and the peace and tranquillity, with your flask of coffee.’

The winds have picked up a little, but fortunately we avoid a complete soaking on the journey back.

12.30PM Simon gives me a tour of the ‘office’ and I try on a couple of lifejackets, including one that has been deployed.

Puffy is an understatement.

Simon talks me through the team: ‘There are five of us altogether, and three of us working on any given day. Each day everyone does at least one shift in the shop, and one shift on the island or the boat. We need to keep the castle tidy as well – it’s not just about blasting people back and forth.’

He also goes over some of the technical specifications of the fleet. All three are Chevertons, with diesel engines and space for 12 passengers.

They run at up to 6 knots – equivalent to around 7 miles per hour – and the same models are sometimes used by the navy for training.

We head out on a boat without passengers, for Simon to give me a more

Ray is a certified skipper and knowledgeable guide

The Cheverton boats have space for 12 passengers WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 31

BEHIND THE SCENES

detailed lesson. It’s great fun, far better than a happy land-dweller could have imagined. I joke about just sailing off into the distance, but we head back for lunch instead.

2PM Ray’s afternoon shift begins. Having worked on the boats this morning, he will be in the ticket office all afternoon.

This gives us a chance to chat, away from the noise of the boat engine.

‘I really enjoy driving the boat and chatting to the customers. Normally if they ask about the castle, I can give them the full history from 1300 and they get the story of Mary, Queen of Scots. If I get the timing right, I get to “and they chopped her head off” just at the right time for tying the ropes on.’

2.45PM It may only be the second week of the season, but the sun has brought visitors flocking today. Combined with a French school trip and Tuesday being the day the grass cutters come, the boats have been packed all day. An hour and a half before the final scheduled outward journey will set sail, Ray books in a family for the last four spots. ‘On busy days, we can be sold out by 11am. That’s one of the downsides. Sometimes you have to disappoint people.’

3PM I join Ray’s colleague Rob Symons on what will be my last sailing of the day. A line of visitors has formed on the island, waiting to be ferried home.

I ask Rob if I could pose for some shots later that look like I’m mooring the boat. He laughs. ‘Why fake it?!’

Once the passengers are safely dispatched, we do a quick loop and Rob shows me how to park. I tie up the boat on the jetty poorly, and he fixes it with ‘a round turn and two half hitches’. My days as a Girl Guide were clearly wasted.

Rainbow over Loch Leven

I think it’s one of the best jobs in the world.

I get to play with boats and blether to people 4PM I return to the ticket office to see how Ray’s afternoon has been progressing. Visitors have been in, buying postcards, a toy sword and guidebooks. I ask him what their most popular product is. ‘When we get groups of kids in, they’ll just dive on the armour there.’

A few people pop in hoping to visit the castle. Ray offers his apologies and advises them to come back tomorrow.

He and his colleagues love to help and hate to disappoint. They are passionate about what they do, and their enthusiasm is infectious. ‘I think it’s one of the best jobs in the world. I get to play with boats and blether to people,’ he says.

4.30PM With Simon and Rob ferrying the last visitors back from the island, and Ray cashing up, it’s time for me to go. As if on cue, a beautiful, bright rainbow appears, protruding from Lochleven Castle island – a stunning view to end a wonderful day.

A BRIEF GUIDE TO THE BOAT DASHBOARD Ray: ‘You have the throttle there in your right hand – that basically controls your speed – and you’ve got your steering wheel going left and right. As you move the throttle, you’ll see the rev

32 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

counter move: that tells you what speed the engine’s doing.

Alongside that you have an oil pressure gauge, which tells you that your engine is pumping sufficient oil so that it’s not going to seize

up. There is also a temperature gauge.

These boats are water cooled, so they take in loch water and pass it through the engine and exhaust system. If you go flat out on one of

the boats, it lifts up slightly and doesn’t pick up enough water. The other one is the voltmeter and that’s just telling you that you’re putting enough charge in the battery.’

VOUCHER MISSING? EMAIL: missingcard@realhealthco.com

Seaforth Highlanders snatch some respite

BATTLE STATION

SCOTLA A CENTURY AFTER THE OUTBREAK OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR, ALLAN CARSWELL UNCOVERS THE HISTORIC SCOTLAND PROPERTIES INVOLVED IN THE CONFLICT

HISTORY

FEATURING

STIRLING CASTLE

FORT GEORGE

ND

EDINBURGH CASTLE

DUMBARTON CASTLE

INCHCOLM ABBEY

BLACKNESS CASTLE

TRINITY HOUSE

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 35

GETTY, MARY EVANS

A

s thousands of Scots joined the army, and as the Royal Navy’s Grand Fleet sailed from its Scottish bases, the First World War took hold of many of Scotland’s most famous buildings. Given the country’s turbulent past, it was no coincidence that many of these had been in military use for centuries and their brief occupation between 1914 and 1918 was therefore just another layer to an already crowded history – one that was quickly covered over and largely forgotten.

That summer of 1914 had been a particularly busy time for the staff of the regimental depot of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders at Stirling Castle. Besides the usual comings and goings of recruits, the regiment’s permanent home had seen the appointment of a new regimental Royal Colonel-in-Chief – Princess Louise, the Duchess of Argyll, and Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter. In July, the officers of the depot were in attendance when her nephew, King George V, and Queen Mary visited Stirling Castle as part of a tour of Scotland. Meanwhile, events in Europe, which had begun at the end of June as a small cloud on the

ADVANCING THE HOME FRONT North Berwick pillbox

A recent survey has revealed wartime remains across Scotland and helped encourage a drive to record new sites, explains Senior Designations Officer Kevin Munro.

In 2013, Historic Scotland and the Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland (RCAHMS) commissioned Dr Gordon Barclay to carry out an audit of these remains.

The project brought to light almost 1,000 sites, ranging from coast artillery batteries, air stations and drill halls to hospitals and prisoner-of-war camps. A report on the project, ‘The Built Heritage of the First World War in Scotland’, is available to download from the National Monuments Record of Scotland,

36 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Ness Battery, Orkney (middle) and North Sutor (above)

Canmore database.

The project was a great success as a first step in identifying, recording and protecting wartime remains within Scotland. However, plans and records for many sites have been lost, while others have not yet had their wartime role identified. Local knowledge can help uncover information about known and

unknown sites – from new surveys through to analysis of personal diaries, letters and photographs to reveal fresh details of the history of these locations. To that end, Historic Scotland, RCAHMS, Archaeology Scotland and ALGAO Scotland are collaborating with the Council for British Archaeology (CBA) on the Home

Front Legacy 1914-18, a UK-wide volunteer project to record new sites and enhance the information available on places that played a role in the Great War. The project, launched in March by Dan Snow, President of the CBA, will run throughout the First World War centenary. It is an opportunity for local groups and others to learn more about their wartime heritage, and to share information with a much wider audience. The results will also become part of the Canmore database, and the local authority Historic Environment Records.

View the Canmore database at www. rcahms.gov.uk/ firstworldwar For details on the Home Front Legacy project, visit www. homefrontlegacy. org.uk

horizon, were accelerating into a fullblown crisis.

On 30 July, the depot was put on standby for a possible mobilisation of the army. All leave was cancelled and the stores at the castle, containing the weapons and clothing needed to kit out more than a thousand reservists, were checked and prepared.

However, the depot had other obligations that could not be broken.

The date of 4 August 1914 may now be remembered for Great Britain declaring war on Germany, but it was also the day of the castle’s annual garden party. In the laconic words of the depot’s official record of service, ‘As the last guest was leaving, the order to mobilise the 3rd (Reserve) Battalion and the Depot was received… Britain declared war on Germany at midnight August 4/5th’. The world would never be the same again.

The order to mobilise had also been received at Edinburgh Castle and Fort George where the 1st Battalion Cameron Highlanders and the 2nd Battalion Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders, respectively, were stationed. In under a week, both battalions had been brought up to their wartime strength of just over a thousand men and had left for France.

Soon, both garrisons, together with depots of all the Scottish regiments,

HISTORY

Men in training at Fort Charlotte in Lerwick, Shetland

were swamped by recruits responding to Field Marshal Kitchener’s initial appeal for 100,000 new troops.

Meanwhile, Scotland’s territorial units had also mobilised and many would soon be on their way to the front, while the rest moved to their war stations to guard Scotland’s coasts, especially around the naval bases at Rosyth, Cromarty and Scapa Flow.

STRATEGIC ROLE s the first flood of volunteers began to slow down, the military reassessed Scotland’s strategic situation. Three things were critical: the flow of manpower to the front had to be kept up, requiring more accommodation and training facilities; Scotland’s naval bases had to be better defended in the face of new threats, the deadliest of which was the submarine; and output from Scotland’s munitions industry had to be maintained and increased.

The first of these priorities led to a quick turnover of newly formed units coming and going from Scotland’s main garrisons. It also meant the arrival of the first overseas troops, men from Newfoundland who arrived at Fort George and Edinburgh Castle in the winter of 1914-15. The pressure for barrack accommodation also led to

Dumbarton Castle

SHETLAND MUSEUM AND ARCHIVES, GETTY

A

Inchcolm Island

older sites, such as Dumbarton Castle, being brought back into use, at least temporarily, and to the establishment of many provisional camps and training schools across the country.

The second wartime priority led to a massive increase in coastal fortifications. A spate of German naval attacks in 1914 had exposed the vulnerability of the east coast, forcing WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 37

The former Cunard liner Campania was converted into an aircraft carrier in 1915. She sank in the Firth of Forth after a collision in 1918

Bell tower of Cambuskenneth Abbey

WAR AND PEACE

MILESTONES ALONG THE TIMELINE OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR 4 AUGUST 1914 Great Britain declares war on Germany on the same day as Stirling Castle holds its annual garden party

19 FEBRUARY 1915 The 1st Battalion of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment moves from Fort George to Edinburgh Castle to carry out guard duties

1915 24 DECEMBER 1914 Springburn Hospital opens in the north of Glasgow It has 400 beds, an operating theatre and x-ray room as well as recreation areas, sitting rooms and bedrooms

38 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

22 MAY 1915 Members of the 7th Battalion of the Royal Scots are among those killed in a train crash at Quintinshill near Gretna

30 DECEMBER 1915 The Royal Navy cruiser HMS Natal explodes in the Cromarty Firth with the loss of around 400 lives

GETTY, MARY EVANS, ALAMY

1914

the navy to shift forces south from Scapa Flow in Orkney to the Forth. The peace of Inchcolm Island was shattered as artillery batteries and searchlight positions were constructed. Even the buildings of the old monastery were occupied as living accommodation for some of the hundreds of soldiers who arrived to man the defences. As the war wore on, the importance of the Forth as a naval base increased. A special research station was established nearby at Hawkcraig to develop ways of detecting enemy submarines through the use of listening devices, or ‘hydrophones’, and defences on Inchcolm were also heavily strengthened in 1916.

Other locations along the Forth were adapted to naval or military use. The pre-war ammunition depot at Blackness Castle was taken over by the navy for a period in 1916 before becoming an army driving school in 1919.

Many fishing vessels operating from the Forth were also pressed into service as tenders, minesweepers or armed trawlers. Local merchant ships were essential to the war effort, moving supplies and materials, with many lost to German submarines. A remarkable record of this aspect of the war can be seen in the collections at Trinity House in Leith and in the building’s memorial stained glass window.

APRIL 1916 The Mons Shell Factory at the Atlas Works of the North British Locomotive Company, Glasgow, is dedicated to producing war materials

1916 2 APRIL 1916 Unable to reach the Rosyth naval base due to the defences, Kapitan Alois Bocker and two Zeppelins bomb Edinburgh and Leith instead

Blackness Castle: used by the navy in 1916

Sir Spencer Ewart described the Forth as ‘the greatest and strongest naval base in the world’ In addition to manning the coastal fortifications, a significant number of troops were required to protect the naval bases from possible invasion and these were based around the firths of Forth, Tay and Cromarty. By 1918, the Commander-in-Chief of the army in Scotland, Lieutenant General Sir John Spencer Ewart, described the Forth, with justification, as ‘the greatest and strongest naval base in the world’.

The naval battles in the North Sea also brought in a steady stream of German prisoners, many of whom were held at Fort George and Edinburgh Castle. At the latter, the prisoners joined many

German civilians interned at the castle awaiting repatriation or long-term confinement, occupying the same vaults as French and American sailors a hundred years earlier.

By 1916 another of Edinburgh Castle’s former roles, that of state prison, had been reactivated. The enforcement of new working conditions, intended to increase munitions production, had led to strikes and political unrest, especially in the Glasgow area. A nervous government reacted, encouraging the military authorities to detain trade union leaders and known activists. At least two of these, John Maclean and David

9 JULY 1917 The HMS Vanguard is destroyed while anchored at Scapa Flow when the cordite in one of the magazines explodes by accident

15 MAY 1918 A German U-boat U90 fires off the Island of Hirta, St Kilda. It struck the naval signal station on the island

1917 1918 5 JUNE 1916 The HMS Hampshire sinks off Marwick Head after striking a German mine.

Field Marshal Earl Kitchener, the Minister of War, is one of the 600 fatalities

4 MARCH 1918 The Prince of Wales and Sir W Macewen visit wounded soldiers during a visit to Clydeside

21 NOVEMBER 1918 The German fleet surrenders to Admiral Beatty in the Forth

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 39

CHRONICLING SCOTS AT WAR

Scotland’s First World War

Kirkwood, spent time in the deepest cells in the castle in a none-too-subtle attempt at intimidation.

PUTTING THE PAST BEHIND US fter 1918, the physical evidence of much of this activity quickly began to disappear. There is no particular mystery to this – it happens at the end of all wars. There was, however, a sense of urgency in the need to obliterate any trace of the military’s presence from many sites referred to here. Scotland’s past was now to have no interface with the grim realities of modern war. It was to be neat and distinct, remote from the upheavals and traumas of the previous four years.

One by one, Inchcolm, Dumbarton and Blackness were heavily restored in the 1920s, becoming ‘ancient monuments’ – stripped back and stripped out. Of course, future generations have gained

A

40 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

much through this process, but perhaps something was lost along the way – a sense of their evolution, perhaps some outward sign of their untidy humanity.

At Edinburgh Castle, the process of ‘demilitarisation’ took a slightly different turn with the proposal in 1917 to create a national museum and a memorial to the war. However, this was never going to be about howitzers and trenches, like the new Imperial War Museum in London. Instead, the entire castle was to become a national shrine to Scotland’s past. In the end, this never happened, but the creators of the war memorial and its accompanying museum succeeded in subsuming the sacrifices of the war within an older military tradition, one of tartan, gold and scarlet, rather than khaki and battleship grey.

The 100th anniversary of the war has afforded the opportunity to revisit the recent history of these locations.

As well as providing a better understanding of their wartime role, it has underlined their continuing relevance to Scotland’s story.

Evidence of the First World War and the men and women who played a part in it can be found across Scotland, and this is the subject of Scotland’s First World War, a new book published by Historic Scotland.

Illustrated with previously forgotten and unpublished wartime plans, beautiful new photography and contemporary photographs and quotes, the book is one of the first to focus on Scotland’s built heritage of the war as a whole, from coast and air defences to hospitals and

prisoner-of-war camps.

Scotland’s First World War explores the places where a hundred years ago men and women joined and took part in the war effort. It examines where they trained, where they stood up for their rights, and where they defended their country against the enemy. It also looks at how major industries grew up to supply the front lines, where men recovered from their wounds before returning to the front and where some of them were finally laid to rest.

Scotland’s First World War is available from all good booksellers for £11.99. However, members can get a 20 per cent discount and free postage and packaging by ordering through Booksource. Phone 0845 370 0067 or email orders@booksource.net, quoting the code HISTORIC 20.

ALAMY

ABOVE National War Memorial for Scotland at Edinburgh Castle LEFT US troops march through Perth in 1918

TWO cONFlIcTS

TWO cENT ENTuRIES ENT cENTuRIES New Victoria by Heritage

TWO VERY DIFFERENT STORIES

ThE bRaVERY OF mEN IN WaR

Birlinn Limited Other Imprints – j o h n d o n a l d • p o l y g o n

www.birlinn.co.uk

your first choice for bathrooms sensational offers available in-store bathroom suites • showers & enclosures tiles & accessories • wet rooms • fitted furniture leading manufacturers • experienced staff free customer parking

FREE BATHROOM DESIGN SERVICE ABERDEEN 01224 335335 DUNDEE 01382 883555

INVERNESS 01463 245502 INVERURIE 01467 629853

EDINBURGH 0131 657 7703 ELGIN 01343 543181 FRASERBURGH 01346 514474

KIRKCALDY 01592 653295 KIRKWALL 01856 871282 PERTH 01738 638323 STORNOWAY 01851 704046

GLASGOW 0141 892 6010

www.williamwilson.co.uk

Ship shore TO

INDIRA MANN explores Orkney’s strategic maritime setting and the

rich, diverse and turbulent history that helped create it

Skara Brae

OUT & ABOUT ORKNE Y

INDIRA MANN is a former archaeologist and interpretive planner turned journalist with a lifelong love of Scotland's castles and wild places.

Indira is currently working for a research partnership based in Edinburgh

As I stepped on to dry land I experienced a sense of relief, and anticipation, which seafarers of old might have felt at journey’s end.

The big boat that brought me from Aberdeen to Kirkwall on Orkney’s Mainland had bucked and rolled in the swells created by a brisk southwesterly. It is one of many ships, over thousands of years, to have reached safe anchorage here. So how much has Orkney’s maritime setting shaped its past? I was about to find out.

Orkney, and Scapa Flow in particular, will be in many people’s minds this year as we commemorate the dark days of the First World War. The islands and their population were transformed when Britain’s Grand Fleet assembled its war machinery in and around this enormous natural harbour.

A nexus between the North Atlantic and the North Sea, it has, since at least Viking times, provided access to vital maritime routes from a secure shelter.

TOUR NOTES Indira took the ferry from Aberdeen to the Orkney Mainland

Scapa Flow The visitor centre documents the centuries of travel, trade and conflict on this stretch of water

Hackness Martello Tower Built between 1813 and 1815 to provide defence against privateers

The Bishop's and Earl's Palaces The palaces highlight Orkney’s diverse history

GETTY

Broch of Gurness The village at Gurness is the best preserved of all broch villages

Skara Brae Uncovered by a storm in 1850, Skara Brae presents a picture of life five thousand years ago

OUT & ABOUT ORKNE Y

Heading over Scapa Flow

SCAPA FLOW VISITOR CENTRE & MUSEUM headed first on another ferry to the island of Hoy. The landscape here is dotted with concrete pill boxes, gun emplacements and Nissen huts, many of these have survived since the Second World War. Some structures lie empty, while others have been put to new uses – including the First World War fuel pumping station at Lyness, which now houses the Scapa Flow Visitor Centre & Museum.

A muster point for artefacts and archival material, it includes salvaged items from the scuttled German First World War fleet. While peace talks rumbled on into 1919, Rear Admiral Von Reuter grew nervous about the fate of his warships, which were corralled there. On 21 June 1919, he ordered his men to open the seacocks and let the water pour in. One by one, 52 German warships sank to the seabed.

An ambitious salvage operation in the 1920s and 1930s recovered all but seven ships. Today, the wrecks of the three battleships, three light cruisers and a fast minelayer provide a unique underwater experience. Divers are, of course, encouraged to dive responsibly

I

ABOVE Kirkwall Harbour LEFT Hackness Martello Tower BELOW Indira at the top of the tower

and leave these wartime relics undisturbed given their status as scheduled monuments of national importance.

HACKNESS MARTELLO TOWER secure harbour is only as good as its defences, so First World War navy personnel were drafted in to operate booms – long cables stretched between ships – and anti-submarine nets that would deter

DIG IN! SCAPA FLOW 2013 MARINE ARCHAEOLOGY SURVEY PROJECT In 2013, Historic Scotland commissioned an archaeological survey of underwater sites within Scapa Flow and around the Churchill Barriers.

The archaeologists were to focus on 28 known sites, which 44 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

had not been recorded in detail.

The survey was to identify and assess the condition of sites of First and Second World War wrecks, salvages, and Second World War boom defences.

The Scapa Flow 2013 Marine

Historic Scotland has documented finds at Scapa Flow

Archaeology Survey Project is now complete, and the results have been uploaded to www. scapaflowwrecks. com. There is a host of new information on, for example, the blockships, which were sunk by the Admiralty to keep

German shipping out of Scapa Flow. There are also images of HMS Roedean, a converted minesweeper that hit a mine at Hoxa Head in 1915, and the Clestrain Hurdles installed during the First World War.

INDIRA MANN, SHUTTERSTOCK, PREVIOUS PAGE: SUPERSTOCK, CANMORE

A

ORKNEY THROUGH THE YEARS

The Earl's Palace

c.3100-2500 BC Skara Brae built

c.3100-2900 BC Stones of Stenness erected c.2600 BC Ring of Brodgar built c.600-100 BC Brochs built

c.AD 800 Vikings begin to arrive

enemy vessels from entering Scapa Flow. Some were billeted at Hackness Martello Tower, at the south-eastern tip of Hoy, which was my next port of call.

Begun in 1813, it was built to provide military muscle for convoys of merchant shipping against France (the Napoleonic Wars had two years to run) and the American Fenian Brotherhood, who were fighting for America’s independence.

These threats never materialised, but the defences are still impressive.

On my way to the tower’s rooftop, I noticed graffiti up the stairwell. Closer inspection revealed the names of the boom operators and signallers stationed here during the two world wars. The reality of conflict, and the people caught up in it, came into sharp focus.

Later that day, I drove to Scapa Bay where HMS Royal Oak lies beneath the water – a buoy marking its location. The sinking of the battleship by a German U-boat in 1939, with the loss of 834 lives, exposed gaps in the Royal Navy’s strategy. The Admiralty rued the day it had dismantled First World War defences, and set about building barriers to block access to the Flow. The Churchill Barriers, named after the wartime leader, were created from 10-tonne concrete blocks.

1263 Battle of Largs, King Haakon dies

1468 King Christian I of Denmark pledges Orkney to James III 1850 Storm reveals remains of Skara Brae

1919 Scuttling of German WW1 fleet in Scapa Flow 1940 WW2 under way, building of Churchill Barriers begins

BISHOP’S PALACE AND EARL’S PALACE he Orkney islands were once at the heart of trading routes linking Norway and Denmark to Scotland and Ireland. For centuries, Kirkwall was the capital of the Norse earldom known as the Nordreyjar, or Northern Isles. It was the perfect harbour for the Vikings, who favoured a shallow bay for their longships, and by the 11th century it had become a bustling, prosperous jarl’s (earl’s) residence with its own church and a marketplace facing the open sea.

Next to the beautiful St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall stand the Bishop’s Palace and Earl’s Palace. These neighbouring buildings were adapted over centuries to meet the needs of their inhabitants. The original palace is thought to have been built in the 12th century for William of Old, the bishop who would take charge of St Magnus Cathedral, also under construction at that time. It was extended in 1540.

I was intrigued by the Nordic flavour to place names and dialect, which cohabit easily with Scots turns of phrase. The suffix “quoy” in a street name is one throwback, apparently Old Norse for cattle pen. Despite centuries of Scottish rule, strong links between Scandinavia and Orkney endure. Norway’s Constitution Day in June is celebrated on the islands, and several Norwegian composers and musicians will cross the water for this year’s St Magnus Festival.

T

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 45

OUT & ABOUT ORKNE Y

BROCH OF GURNESS he weather gods were kind on the day I visited two of Orkney’s prehistoric jewels. I drove north-west from Kirkwall to the Broch of Gurness, a remarkable surviving

T

46 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

EXPLORE

4 5

3 2 1

1

HACKNESS MARTELLO TOWER is located on the island of Hoy, accessible by ferry from the mainland 2

SCAPA FLOW VISITOR CENTRE & MUSEUM in Lyness is also located on the island of Hoy. This is not run by Historic Scotland and is normally open from April to October 3

BISHOP’S PALACE AND EARL’S PALACE are in Kirkwall, a short distance from the ferry port and 3 miles from the airport 4

BROCH OF GURNESS is a 16-mile drive north-west from Kirkwall 5.

SKARA BRAE is 17 miles west of Kirkwall

TOP AND ABOVE Skara Brae BELOW Broch of Gurness

example of an Iron Age settlement overlooking Eynhallow Sound with what can only be described as a stronghold at its core. Yet is this a correct assessment?

Archaeological analysis alludes to Orkney being a centre of power and influence in north-west Europe.

Fragments of a Roman amphora have been found at Gurness, and that points to trade and transport. By sea, naturally.

The truth is that we will never know for certain, so it was wonderful to stand in that ancient landscape discussing our own theories about brochs and the people who lived in them.

SKARA BRAE y final destination was the Bay of Skaill and the Neolithic village of Skara Brae. One might be forgiven for thinking that these Neolithic people put down roots five thousand years ago on the shores of the Atlantic to make full use of its bounty.

But an interactive display in the visitor centre graphically showed how the ocean has eaten into a farming landscape with its freshwater lochs. Even before storms exposed the site to antiquarian eyes, some of the buildings had been washed away by coastal erosion. Today, Historic Scotland must perform a balancing act of allowing access for thousands of visitors while keeping the elements at bay to ensure the survival of this incomparable monument.

Tide and time wait for no man and, far too soon, I was seated on an aeroplane bound for Edinburgh. The islands were laid out like a map and I realised that I had only dipped a toe into their extraordinary past. As for the future, Orkney’s seas are poised to yield treasure of a different kind, in the form of renewable energy. The Northern Isles may have yet another role to play in Europe's fortunes.

M

SHUTTERSTOCK

The Northern Isles may have passed to Scotland, but their distance from Edinburgh meant the earls of Orkney held a firm grip on power. The Earl's Palace was created in the early 1600s

by Earl Patrick, whose father Earl Robert was gifted Orkney by his halfsister Mary Queen of Scots.. The upper levels are a wonderful vantage point, with views across the Peedie Sea to the north-west – where the Viking longships once came and went – and Scapa Flow to the south.

I admired many of the building's ornate features, but it was impossible to ignore the gun loops. This may have been a comfortable home, but it was also a defensive structure where Earl Patrick’s 50-strong bodyguard was housed.

Perhaps his flagrant use of “slave” labour earned him enemies – at his trial it was claimed that he put the inhabitants through 'all sorts of servile and painful labour, without either meat, drink or hire' – but when his son launched the doomed Kirkwall Rebellion of 1614 many Orcadians fell in behind him.

RECOMMEND US TO YOUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY

SPECIAL OFFER

I

f you enjoy your Historic Scotland membership, now’s the time to tell your friends and family. They can enjoy great days out all year round, and our Member Get Member scheme means they’ll save 20% on their membership fee when they join.

Paying by direct debit is great value

too, and with 20% off the annual cost a concession membership is only £2.43 a month.

MEMBER GET MEMBER SCHEME There are two ways to take advantage of the Member Get Member scheme: l Ask your friend or family

member to call 0131 668 8999.

Tell them to quote your membership number and mention the Member Get Member offer. We can then process their discounted-rate membership over the phone. l Go to any staffed Historic Scotland attraction with your

friend or family member and show your membership card.

Your friend can sign up at the discounted rate.

Terms and conditions apply. For new annual membership only. Not available for renewals or life membership. See www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/member for details.

FIVE REASONS TO BECOME A MEMBER

2

A personal copy of Historic Scotland magazine posted out four times a year direct to your door.

1

Free entry to more than 70 of Scotland’s top heritage attractions.

5

3

Discounts on Historic Scotland products and dining events.

Half-price entry into 500 heritage attractions in England, Wales and on the Isle of Man.

4

A chance to take part in member activities – including tours, lectures and lunches.

EVENTS LOTS OF EXCITING THINGS TO DO RIGHT ACROSS SCOTLAND

FOR FULL DETAILS Pick up your events guide at any of our properties or visit www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/events DAYTIME EVENTS ARE FREE TO MEMBERS, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

JUNE-SEPTEMBER

SUMMER A SPECIALS

s this massive year for the nation rolls on, Historic Scotland’s main summer contributions to Homecoming Scotland bring together heraldry and horsemanship with two stunning events that capture our history in vivid and entertaining ways.

FIND OUT MORE You can keep up to date with our Homecoming activity at www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/homecoming

48 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Toilets

Restaurant / cafĂŠ

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

Dogs not permitted

Parking

ABOVE Watch the thrills and spills of knightly combat at Linlithgow Palace

SPECTACULAR JOUSTING Celebration of the Centuries at Fort George will have a special focus on the First World War

CELEBRATION OF THE CENTURIES

LINLITHGOW PALACE

FORT GEORGE

Sat 5-Sun 6 July, 12.30pm-4.30pm 0131 668 8885, www.historicscotland.gov.uk/jousting

Sat 9-Sun 10 August, 11am-5pm 0131 668 8885, www.historicscotland.gov.uk/celebration

Our daring knights return to the magnificent setting of Linlithgow Palace Peel to stage an unforgettable display of horsemanship and skill. Hear the thunder of hooves and the crack of lances splintering as our knights battle it out in the arena.

Enjoy a full programme of supporting activities with shows and presentations in the Palace and on the Peel. Wander through the bustling camps and see the exciting foot combat and living history displays.

Set in one of the finest military fortifications in Europe the 2014 Celebration of the Centuries event will cover more than 2,000 years of Scottish history. This flagship event of Historic Scotland’s calendar presents visitors with a colourful, vibrant and immersive experience, including an aerial display and more than 250 performers.

As part of Homecoming Scotland 2014 the event will have special emphasis on marking the 100th anniversary of the outbreak of the First World War. WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 49

SPECIAL OFFER

£20 OFF PLUS FREE SHOWER HOSE WORTH £10 WITH EVERY ORDER

Boost the power of your shower and SAVE money too!

SAVE £20 WAS £49.95

NOW

£29.95

FREE P&P WHEN YOU ORDER 2

“We tried out five eco shower heads checking their flow rate and quality of experience. Our favourite is the Ecocamel Jetstorm, it felt powerful and invigorating.”

Robin Whitfield Jetstorm Designer & Inventor

BRITISH INVENTION AND DESIGN

GOOD HOUSEKEEPING INSTITUTE

A shower is an experience to help you wake up, wind down and get ready for whatever’s round the corner. As simple pleasures go, it’s hard to beat that welcome spray and force of bursting droplets on your skin. Agreed?

I

would like to introduce you to the Jetstorm – just one of the groundbreaking range of revolutionary water-efficient shower heads from Ecocamel. With several years of scientific research, we have been able to produce a shower head that instantly increases pressure and performance to create an exhilarating shower experience, whilst using significantly less water.

I’m so confident you’ll love your new powerful shower, we’re offering all readers a 30-DAY MONEY BACK GUARANTEE*.

So why not take a few seconds to unscrew your current showerhead and replace it with a new powerful Jetstorm – you’ve got nothing to lose!

FREE

WITH EVERY ORDER WORTH £10

SHOWER

“Definitely one of the simplest ways to make financial savings in the home without having to make too many changes to your routine.”

JUSTIN HARPER – DAILY MAIL

“Adding to the commercial benefit is the showering experience by an Ecocamel shower head, which has been commented on by many of our customers.”

HOSE

KAREN SAWBRIDGE – OPERATIONS DIRECTOR ALFA LEISUREPLEX HOLIDAY GROUP

MORE POWER FOR YOUR POUND

POWER IN THE SCIENCE This pioneering shower head is named the Jetstorm because of its patented dual valve ‘AirCore’ technology. Developed to infuse a storm of minute air bubbles into each droplet which are then blasted, jet-like, onto your skin… we guarantee you’ll increase your shower’s power instantly and reduce your water consumption considerably! What a feeling, the droplets – now bursting with air – are so much lighter than normal and, rather than just bouncing off you, they saturate and spread all over your body – giving you a senational shower experience. Choosing the right Jetstorm is easy... if you have a normal gravity, mainpressure or pump system buy the Jetstorm. If you use a lowpressure system or electric shower, ask for the Jetstorm E.

WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY:

You would think using less water would mean losing power... wouldn’t you? No, the Jetstorm not only uses less water it increases your showers performance! An independent, accredited UK testing house has proved it. Showing an average water saving of 20%-60% compared to other showerheads. Plus, for a limited time only we’re offering £20 off the RRP and a FREE shower hose (worth £10) – meaning even more money stays in your pocket! Quote your discount code HS276 at checkout.

Patented AIR-CORE Technology

Dual-valve for twice the POWER

SAVE WATER, ENERGY & MONEY! These are tough economic times – with energy prices soaring to an all time high, everyone is trying to reduce their outgoings.

The Jetstorm not only helps cut your water bills but reduces your energy bills too! Using less water means using less energy to heat it, saving you ££££s on your energy bills – SIMPLE!

Air

Air

INDEPENDENT TEST RESULTS Our claims are all backed by the most rigorous testing to make sure we meet the strictest water efficiency criteria.

Independent testing at an accredited UK testing house demonstrated average water savings of 20%-60% compared with 5 other shower brands available in High Street retail stores. This translates to a saving of around 10,000 litres of water a year for an average household. And businesses, such as hotels, can save much more!

Water

When ordering by phone, quote the discount code below to claim your FREE HOSE WORTH £10

Call 0208 211 3666 or visit www.ecocamel.com/hs276

Quoting HS276

Or fill out the order form below and send to: ECOCAMEL Ltd, 254 Belsize Road, Suite 16-17, Kilburn, London, NW6 4BT 30-DAY MONEY BACK GUARANTEE *If you are dissatisfied for any reason, then please return to us for a full refund.

YES please send me my: 1 Jetstorm + FREE HOSE £29.95 + £4.95 p&p = For standard systems

1 Jetstorm-E + FREE HOSE £29.95 + £4.95 p&p = For electric and low pressure systems

£34.90 BLUE

GREY

£34.90 BLUE

GREY

I enclose a Cheque/PO made payable to Ecocamel Ltd or pay by credit/debit card: Card No.

Start Date

2 Jetstorms + 2 FREE HOSES £49.95 + FREE P&P = £49.95 For standard systems – SAVE £10

BLUE

GREY

2 Jetstorm-Es + 2 FREE HOSES £49.95 + FREE P&P = £49.95 For electric and low pressure systems – SAVE £10

GRAND TOTAL:

BLUE

GREY

Security Code

/

Expiry Date

HS276 Name Address

/

Post Code Email

Signature

POST TO: ECOCAMEL Ltd, 254 Belsize Road, Suite 16-17, Kilburn, London, NW6 4BT

Telephone If you do NOT wish to receive further SPECIAL OFFERS from us, or from companies we recommend, please tick this box .

Toilets

Restaurant / café

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

Dogs not permitted

Parking

JUNE

OLIVIA IRVINE COMING HOME DUFF HOUSE

Daily until Sun 27 July 11am-5pm

In this year of Homecoming Scotland, Olivia Irvine’s exhibition will look at the theme of Coming Home. Her paintings are heavily influenced by rooms, gardens, holidays – places the artist has visited or in which she has lived.

RING OF BRODGAR WALK RING OF BRODGAR

Daily in June, July and August, every Thu in September, 1pm 01856 841 732 orkneyrangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk

Join a gentle guided walk around Hunter’s Bog and St Margaret’s Loch to learn more about Arthur’s Seat’s past. Find out about the people who lived and worked here, and the wildlife that makes the park so special. Booking essential.

DÜRER’S FAME DUFF HOUSE

Daily until Sun 13 July, 11am-5pm Costumes take centre stage in the Satire of the Three Estates exhibition, Stirling Castle

Explore the work of celebrated 16th-century German artist Albrecht Dürer. The exhibition at Duff House, with the National Galleries of Scotland, includes many of Dürer’s famous prints.

An easy walk around the Ring of Brodgar exploring the archaeology and natural environment. Discover wildlife and the significant role the area plays in the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site.

STANDING STONES OF STENNESS WALK STANDING STONES OF STENNESS

Every Mon, Wed and Fri in June, July and August, every Wed in September, 10am 01856 841 732 orkneyrangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk

Join an easy guided tour of our oldest stone circle and explore the fascinating links with the nearby Neolithic village of Barnhouse.

Discover the significant role the area plays in the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site.

ARTHUR’S AMBLE HOLYROOD PARK

Mon 2, 16 and 30 June, Mon 14 and 28 July, Mon 4 August, 1pm-2.30pm hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150

ARTHUR’S SECRETS HOLYROOD PARK

Dürer’s Fame at Duff House until 13 July

hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150

Every Tue in June and July, Mon 11 August, 1pm-3pm Join a ranger-led walk to learn more about Holyrood Park’s fascinating history and wildlife

Join a moderate guided walk to learn more about Arthur’s Seat’s turbulent past, created by fire and ice. Find out about the people who lived and worked here from 7,000 years ago to the present day, and more about the rare wildlife that lives in the park. Booking essential.

THE THREE ESTATES COSTUME EXHIBITION STIRLING CASTLE

Daily from Sat 7 June-Sun 28 September, 9.30am-6pm 0131 668 8885 or hs.events@ scotland.gsi.gov.uk

Admire the detail and mastery in the costumes created for last year’s performances of A Satire of the Three Estates. Gain an insight into Sir David Lyndsay’s epic political drama and the project that brought it back to life.

ARTHUR’S ADVENTURE HOLYROOD PARK

NATIONAL GALLERIES OF SCOTLAND

Mon 9 and 23 June, Mon 7, 21 July, 1pm-4pm hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150

Join us for a challenging guided walk to learn about the past of Arthur’s Seat. Find out who used the park in ancient times right up to today. This is a strenuous walk and will involve steep inclines and rough terrain. Booking essential.

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 51

MARTINS OF GLASGOW

The Mark of Heritage and Craftsmanship

The Jewellery, Watch and Clock repair company We are pleased to offer the following services: REPAIR OF QUALITY WATCHES Omega, Longines, Tag Heuer, Cartier, Jaeger, I.W.C., etc.

Also Seiko, Rotary, Avia and all other popular makes REPAIR & RESTORATION OF VINTAGE & ANTIQUE TIMEPIECES Pre-war wristwatches & all types of fob watches, Fusees, repeaters, automatons, etc

Cairncross has served the people of Perth since 1869, and it is with pride that we present the unique Perth kilt pin, beautifully crafted in silver.

REPAIR & RESTORATION OF QUALITY CLOCKS, BAROGRAPHS & ALL TYPES OF BAROMETERS Grandfather, grandmother, Regulators, Bracket and other wall & mantle clocks

The pin, featuring a flowing, Celtic inspired design to reflect the meandering River Tay, is topped by Perth’s emblem - the double headed imperial eagle.

REPAIR, RESTORATION & REMODELLING OF JEWELLERY Chain soldering, ring resizing, replacement of missing stones, pearl & bead restringing

Cairncross have been granted permission by the Edinburgh Assay Office to revive the town mark, which was used by Perth silversmiths in the 18th century and is now stamped on the reverse of these superb kilt pins.

REPAIR & RESTORATION OF ALL MANNER OF SILVER & PLATE Engraving service. Inscriptions on trophies or rings to family or clan seal engraving.

1158 MARYHILL ROAD, MARYHILL, GLASGOW G20 9TA Tel: +44 (0)141 946 6333 martin@martinsjewellers.co.uk www.martinsjewellers.co.uk

Available exclusively from

The British Watch and Clock Makers Guild

18 St John Street Perth (01738) 624367 info@cairncrossofperth.co.uk Send for our complimentary brochure.

tysons_NT_SCOTLANDadvert_Layout 1 09/04/2014 tysons_NT_SCOTLANDadvert_Layout 11:31 Page 1 1 09/04/2014 11:31 Page 1

Martins_HS_Spring13.indd 1

11/02/2013 17:28

THE ORIGINAL

THE ORIGINALSHOP IN ENGLANDSHOP

MENS

MENS

LADIES

LADIE

BARRACUDA

BARRACUDA

WANDA

WANDA

A GORE-TEX lined and GUARANTEED WATERPROOF shoe in brown or black leather. Deep tread soles and MEPHISTO air bag shock absorber in the heel for instant comfort. Sizes 5½ -13½, including ½ sizes. £159.95

RAINBOW

The MEPHISTO shoe we have sold for over 30 years.

Black or brown calf uppers, with shock absorbing mid-sole, cushioned heel seat, padded tongue and ankles add up to extreme comfort. Available in size range 5-12½, including ½ sizes. £149.95

ALLIGATOR

A sandal made for exceptional comfort due to the cushioned insole and the MEPHISTO shock absorbing sole and heel unit.

Available sizes 40 - 47, in brown. £89.95

A GORE-TEX lined and GUARANTEED WATERPROOF shoe in brown or black leather. Deep tread soles and MEPHISTO air bag shock absorber in the heel for instant comfort. Sizes 5½ -13½, HAND CRAFTED SHOES IN TOP including ½ sizes. £159.95

Cushioned mid-soles and the MEPHISTO AIRBAG shock absorber for the heel for extreme comfort. Available in black, navy, brown and burgundy leather with black trim.HAND Available in size range 3-9 IN TOP CRAFTED SHOES including ½ sizes. £125.00 ILLUSTRATED QUALITY LEATHERS.

QUALITY LEATHERS. ILLUSTRATED BROCHURE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST BROCHURE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST RAINBOW NIRO SinceMEPHISTO 1887 F.W. shoe Tyson have specialised in The we have sold for COUNTRY and MOUNTAIN footwear for the over 30 years. connoisseur.

Today the same ideas of high Blackand or brown calfservice uppers,are with shock as quality first class observed absorbing heelis fitted All footwear they were 127mid-sole, years ago.cushioned seat, tongue and ankles who add will up by padded our experienced staff, to extreme Available in size from recommend thecomfort. shoes or boots you require range 5-12½, including ½ sizes. the information you supply at the £149.95 time of purchase. With the demise of the British shoe ALLIGATOR industry we searched for a number of years for A sandal made for exceptional a range of country shoes that couldcomfort match the due to the cushioned insole and the standards we require for fit, comfort and wear.

MEPHISTO shock absorbing sole and heel unit.

Market Place, Ambleside, Cumbria LA22 9BU Available sizes 40 -Tel: 47, 015394 33329 inEmail: brown.Fwtyson@btinternet.com £89.95www.fwtyson.co.uk

Sincethan 1887a F.W. Lighter shoe,Tyson have specialised in COUNTRY MOUNTAIN footwear for the stronger thanand a sandal. connoisseur.

Todayuppers, the same ideas Soft suede and mesh with twoof high velcro to adjust widthare and length, as qualitystraps and first class for service observed and cushioned for extreme All footwear is fitted they were 127 foot yearsbeds ago.provide comfort, withexperienced a superb shock absorber in who will by our staff, the heel. Size sizes. from recommend therange shoes3-8 orincluding boots you½require Available in navy blue, orat white. £89.95 the information youblack supply the time of purchase. With the demise of the British shoe LAGOONA industry we searched for a number of years for With the three adjustable velcro straps, athis range of country shoes comfort. that could match the sandal gives extreme The standards we require fit,reduces comfort and wear. shock absorber in the for heel, the impact of walking on the joints, Market Ambleside, back and Place, legs. Available in Cumbria LA22 9BU black or white, Tel: 015394 33329 in size range Fwtyson@btinternet.com 36 - 42.

Email: £79.95

www.fwtyson.co.uk

For more Brochure styles online, on visitrequest www.fwtyson.co.uk For more styles online, visit www.fwtyson.co.uk FW Tyson_HS_Summer_14.indd 1

19/05/2014 10:24

Cushione the MEPH shock ab the heel comfort. brown an trim. Ava including

NIRO

Lighter th stronger t Soft sued velcro str and cushi comfort, the heel.

Available

LAGOO

With the this sanda shock abs impact of back and black or w in size ra £79.95

Toilets

Restaurant / café

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

Dogs not permitted

Parking

BANNOCKBURN TO BOTHWELL BOTHWELL CASTLE

Sun 15 June, 12pm-4pm

The day after the Battle of Bannockburn Edward Bruce arrived at Bothwell Castle to force the English commander Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford to surrender. Witness the outcome of this intense stand-off.

WILDFLOWER WANDER RING OF BRODGAR

Sun 15 June, Sun 13 and 27 July, 2.30pm 01856 841 732 orkneyrangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk

This easy guided walk around Brodgar’s beautiful wildflower meadow will explore how it is being cared for and managed.

THE RISE OF THE STEWARTS DUNDONALD CASTLE

Sun 22 June, 12pm-4pm 01563 851489

In the late 13th century Dundonald Castle lay in ruins but out of the ashes rose the Stewart family.

Hear about their influential role, experience daily medieval life and witness exciting combat displays.

WITHIN THESE WALLS HOLYROOD PARK

Sun 22 June, 27 July and 24 August, 12pm-3pm hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150

FRAGMENTS OF GOLD GLASGOW CATHEDRAL

Sat 30 August, 7pm Adults £15, concessions £13, children £10, 10% member discount 0131 668 8885 or hs.events@scotland.gsi.gov.uk

Join us for the world premiere of new music by internationally renowned artist Goldie, taking place in the magnificent surroundings of Glasgow Cathedral. This highly ambitious event is the conclusion of the Fragments Project, a journey that began in the great Borders abbeys with new music and art, all inspired by the recent discovery of a remarkable and precious piece of a 12th-century book: the Hawick Missal Fragment.

Built in the 1540s by James V of Scotland, the five miles of boundary wall has its own story to tell. Find out more about this fabulous location.

Booking essential.

SCOTTISH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA

Tickets range from £5 to £18, adult Historic Scotland members £15 Tickets from Albert Halls Box Office 01786 473544

OPEN DAY KINNEIL HOUSE

Bothwell Castle

It’s the first day of half-term and George’s grandma is coming to stay. She is horrible, so George creates a special concoction to give to her – with hilarious results.

Illyria returns with another Roald Dahl classic full of (literally) largerthan-life characters. Suitable for all ages 5+.

MACBETH ELGIN CATHEDRAL

The Scottish Chamber Orchestra presents an evening of joyous classical works, led by conductor Richard Egarr.

DUNBLANE CATHEDRAL

Fri 27 June, 8pm

Adults £12, concessions £10, children £8, family £35, 10% member discount Tickets from Duff House or at www.illyria.uk.com

Sat 28 June, Sun 31 August, 12pm- 3pm

Thu 17 July, doors 6.45pm for 7.30pm start Adults £14, concessions £12, children £10, family £42, 10% member discount Tickets from Elgin Cathedral or www.illyria.uk.com

A brave military hero, a devoted subject to his king, Macbeth is

Kinneil House opens its doors for some special tours.

JULY

GEORGE’S MARVELLOUS MEDICINE BY ROALD DAHL DUFF HOUSE

Fri 11 July, doors 5.45pm for 6.30pm start

Dunblane Cathedral plays host to the SCO WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 53

NEW in Paperback from EUP

Melfort Pier & Harbour

A Military History of Scotland

An ideal touring base for the historical sites for the Highlands and Islands.

Edited by Edward Spiers, Jeremy Crang and Matthew Strickland

Explore this picturesque area ,it has fjord-like sealochs and a diveristy of islands, linked by ferries. Visit Oban, Mull, Iona, Inveraray. Discover the birthplace of Scotland.

An unparalleled insight into the evolution of the Scottish military tradition over more than two millennia

Melfort Pier & Harbour, has 12 self catering houses scatted along the shore of Loch Melfort. One of the most beautiful Sea Loch on the West Coast of Scotland, where the Highlands come down to the sea.

Rent per night or per week.

June 2014 • 922pp Pb 978 0 7486 9449 5

We are open all year, 8 houses for the less mobile guests.

Pets very welcome.

Call for more information 01852 200 333 or visit www.mellowmelfort.com

£24.99

The Edinburgh Festivals Angela Bartie

A history of the formative years of The Edinburgh Festivals as the world’s largest arts festival May 2014 • 272pp Pb 978 0 7486 9405 1

www.euppublishing.com

£19.99

Toilets

Restaurant / café

Gift shop

Reasonable wheelchair access

assured of a bright future – until he hears a prophecy that causes the unravelling of a great man, and incites a chain of treachery, murder and destruction. Illyria takes on the great Shakespeare tragedy with a gripping story and dazzling swordplay.

EDINBURGH CASTLE

ABERDOUR CASTLE

Sat 19-Sun 20 July, 12pm-4pm

MEDIEVAL MAYHEM CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE

Fri 25-Sun 27 July, 12pm-4pm

Experience medieval life as this family day out returns. Bring along your little lords and ladies to test their skills at hobby-horse jousting, foam sword fighting and teach them how to dress for battle.

Homecoming Scotland’s Food and Drink Fortnight at Edinburgh Castle

HOMECOMING AFTERNOON TEA EDINBURGH CASTLE

Throughout September, £22 members £25 non-members To book log into the membersonly area of our website and follow link

BAT WALK

DUFF HOUSE

STIRLING CASTLE

SHUTTERSTOCK

Wed 30 July, 8pm Tickets range from £5 to £18, adult Historic Scotland members £15 Tickets from Albert Halls Box Office 01786 473544

The Scottish Chamber Orchestra returns for its annual summer concert with French conductor Alexandre Bloch. The orchestra will be joined by Scottish guitarist Sean Shibe.

Enjoy mouth-watering afternoon tea inspired by the very best of Scottish produce, including delicious Highland venison and Loch Duart salmon sandwiches, cakes such as traditional Scottish macaroon and homemade Edinburgh Castle scones, and a dram of whisky or glass of prosecco to toast the occasion!

Sun 14 September, 12.30pm for a 1pm start £58 members £65 non-members To book log into the membersonly area of our website and follow link www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ member

Join us for our special Wine and Dine event created especially to mark the year of Homecoming Scotland 2014. A delicious menu of Scottish themed courses awaits with suitable wine matching each course.

0131 652 8150

Sat 26 July-Sat 23 August, 11am-5pm

SCOTTISH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/ member

Join Chapterhouse Theatre Company for an evening of Regency wonderment.

KATY DOVE EXHIBITION

A new exhibition from Glasgowbased artist Katy Dove, part of GENERATION, a national programme of events featuring 100 international artists celebrating contemporary art in Scotland.

Parking

HOMECOMING WINE AND DINE

ABERDOUR 1300

Immerse yourself in 14th-century life during the time of the Wars of Independence. Wander through the medieval encampment and feel the weight of authentic arms and armour.

Dogs not permitted

HOLYROOD PARK

Fri 29 August, 8pm-10pm Adults £5, concessions £4, children £3, 10% member discount hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150

The write stuff: Sense and Sensibility

AUGUST

SENSE AND SENSIBILITY

BY JANE AUSTEN DUFF HOUSE

Join our rangers for a short talk followed by an easy-grade walk.

Listen to and look for the bats in the park. Booking essential.

RENAISSANCE REVELRY

STIRLING CASTLE

FIT FOR A QUEEN DOUNE CASTLE

Sun 7 September, 12pm-4pm

Informative costuming, food, musketry and archery displays throughout the day.

CELTIC CRAG HOLYROOD PARK

Sun 21 September, 9am-12pm, hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150

Sun 31 August, 12.30pm-4.30pm

Join a ranger for a guided walk to delve into the park’s rich Celtic past. Booking essential.

A day of music, dance and drama.

With presentations on life in a Renaissance palace.

ARCHAEOLOGY DAY

LINLITHGOW PALACE

Wed 6 August, 01261 818181 Thu 7 August, 01786 450000 doors 6.45pm for 7.30pm start Adults £14, concessions £12, children £10, families £42, 10% member discount. To receive your discount please purchase your tickets by telephoning the venue directly

Find out more about archaeological artefacts found in Holyrood Park. Booking essential.

SEPTEMBER

DIGGING UP THE PAST

HOLYROOD PARK

Sat 27 September, 11am-3pm, hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or 0131 652 8150

HOLYROOD PARK

Sat 6 September, 10am-2pm hs.rangers@scotland.gsi.gov.uk or

Discover what life was like in the Iron Age. Booking essential.

WWW.HISTORIC-SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 55

GUESS THE YEAR

WIN

WORK OUT THE MYSTERY YEAR AND WIN

HOW TO ENTER If you can identify the year from the options below, visit www. historic-scotland.gov.uk/ guesstheyear or post your answer, with your name, membership number and address, to Guess the Year, Historic Scotland magazine, Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH by Friday 18 July. See www.historicscotland.gov.uk/member for terms and conditions.

WINNING PRIZE The winning entry will receive a cheese and wine hamper from Scottish Hampers (www.scottishhampers.co.uk) containing a bottle of Bordeaux, Scottish cheese, crackers and flame-roasted coffee, among other treats. Please note: the competition is only open to members aged over 18.

THE PAINTING Albert Chevallier Tayler’s stirring portrait of Field-Marshal Douglas Haig, 1st Earl Haig was completed in 1920. Haig died eight years later and was buried in the north transept of Dryburgh Abbey (which is also the resting place of Sir Walter Scott). Tayler’s painting demonstrates the ‘square brush technique’, which involves laying the paint on the canvas straight from the palette using the square edge of the brush. The softened edges this creates produces a sense of atmosphere and light.

WHAT’S THE ANSWER In which year did Douglas Haig begin his officer training at Sandhurst?

A: 1884, B: 1887 or C: 1892

LAST ISSUE’S GUESS THE YEAR COMPETITION Mary Queen of Scots abdicated in 1567. Congratulations to Grace Ellis from Edinburgh 56 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

ALAMY

‘FIELD MARSHALL THE EARL HAIG’, BY ALBERT CHEVALLIER TAYLER (1862-1925), 1920, OIL ON CANVAS, PORTRAIT OF SIR DOUGLAS HAIG IN UNIFORM

Clean, waterproofed boots allow water vapour to escape and keep your feet dry

Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel

Nikwax waterproofers

is an effective, easy to use cleaner designed for outdoor footwear

add safe, high performance water repellency

ro F l u or o

Our aftercare is the only 100% WaterBased, non-flammable and fluorocarbon (PFC) free range available. We avoid using PFCs as we believe they are a risk to consumer health and the environment.

FR E w E

Dirt and soaked-in water stops sweat escaping so it stays in your boots

rbo n ( PF

ca

Water

Ze

Breathe Easy!

C)

sed Ba

Soggy Socks?

he N n IK ww you W w. pla AX /h nikw y ou SA sc a r ot x. W M lan co eb P d .uk Qu LE iz S

Easier, Safer, Drier