Historic Scotland Spring 2017

The royal sisters hidden from view

44

EXCITING EVENTS

INSIDE

THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS SPRING 2017

Inspiring

DAYS OUT

INCLUDING

Linlithgow Palace Tantallon Castle Skara Brae Fort George Stirling Castle

JOUSTING!

Choose your champion at Caerlaverock Castle

DRESSED TO THRILL

Discover a colourful past at four splendid sites

Mozolowski & Murray Conservatories Orangeries

To find out more call us on

0345 050 5440 Visit our design centre or request a brochure.

Sun Lounges Garden Rooms

Mozolowski & Murray Conservatory Design Centre 57 Comiston Road Edinburgh EH10 6AG Open 7 days 10am to 5pm

www.mozmurray.co.uk

Welcome to

CLAIRE BOWIE Membership and CRM Manager

A FRIEND

Our properties bustle with activity in springtime, just as the coastlines, mountains and woodlands around them stir into life.

You never tire of the visual treats offered by more than 300 Historic Scotland locations, from prehistoric villages to grand castles. So, in the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology, what better way to reflect the vitality of our properties than with our annual photography competition?

An outstanding gallery of winning entries this year was inspired by properties including Blackness Castle, Melrose Abbey and Linlithgow Palace. Enjoy this striking glimpse into life in and around our sites on page 24.

As we take our part in an exciting year of activities celebrating our nation’s past, Nicki Scott delves into the history behind our biggest events, from Amazing Ages! to Spectacular Jousting. See page 38.

Find out the inside story behind one of our headlining days, the Siege on the Forth, as the intrepid Jonathan McIntosh spends a day as an events manager. Discover on page 42 how he coped with a mock 17th-century battle.

On page 32, Amy Blakeway tells the fascinating tale of three royal granddaughters hidden from public life because of mental ill health. Although born into positions of privilege and power, the sisters have little presence in the history books.

INTRODUCE

HISTORIC SCOTLAND

MALCOLM COCHRANE; JEREMY SUTTON!HIBBERT

Discover the secrets of the Marian hangings P4

2

Explore a lighthouse steeped in history P20

3

Visit the noble homes of forgotten sisters P32

4

Have a wild day out in Holyrood Park P52

5

Learn the skills of a Neolithic potter P53

AMY BLAKEWAY The gilded cage (p32) A lecturer in history at the University of Kent, Amy is the author of Regency in Sixteenth-Century Scotland

SEE PAGE 49

5 big things to see and do this issue 1

Contributors

NICKI SCOTT The time traveller (p38) A historian by trade, Nicki is a cultural resources adviser for Historic Environment Scotland

Go wild in Holyrood Park

JONATHAN MCINTOSH My day as... (p42) An editorial assistant on Historic Scotland, Jonathan writes for membership magazines and has an MSc in publishing

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 1

Historic Environment Scotland Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH 0131 668 8600 historicenvironment.scot Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999 members@hes.scot Editorial enquiries members@hes.scot Membership and CRM Manager Claire Bowie

LOOK INSIDE HISTORIC SCOTLAND SPRING 2017 42 | Could you handle the pace of events management?

Assistant Membership Manager Morag Paterson Membership Co-ordinator Pauline Brews Editor Kathleen Morgan kathleen.morgan@thinkpublishing.co.uk Deputy Editor Fiona McKinlay fiona.mckinlay@thinkpublishing.co.uk Design Matthew Ball, John Pender, Andrew Bell Sub-editors Sam Bartlett, Sian Campbell, Kirsty Fortune Editorial Assistant Jonathan McIntosh Advertising Sales Jamie Dawson jamie.dawson@thinkpublishing.co.uk 020 3771 7221 Publisher John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk Think Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA 0141 375 0504 Photography All images provided by Historic Environment Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785 or email images@hes.scot Historic Scotland is published quarterly and printed on paper made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials.

The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic Environment Scotland.

All information is correct at the time of going to press. Š Historic Environment Scotland.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager of Historic Environment Scotland.

JEREMY SUTTON!HIBBERT; SIMON MURPHY; BILL CUMMING; ANA BARRERA GORDILLO

Historic Environment Scotland (HES) is a Non Departmental Public Body established by the Historic Environment Scotland Act 2014.

HES has assumed the property, rights, liabilities and obligations of Historic Scotland and RCAHMS. Visit historicenvironment.scot/ about-us Scottish Charity No. SC045925.

Cover: Fort George

06 | Take a closer look at the carvings of Linlithgow Palace 2 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

32 | Why was Margaret Douglas hidden away at Kinneil House?

50

EVENTS

Step into spring with an action-packed schedule celebrating the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology

13 | St Andrews’ past on display

22 | Denise Mina’s heritage pick Shetland

24 | Things are looking up – photo competition winners and runners-up revealed

PLACES TO VISIT

THIS SPRING

Skara Brae P40

Kinnaird Head Castle Lighthouse P20

Fort George P38

Dallas Dhu Distillery P53

Dumbarton Castle P10

Aberdour Castle P36

Blackness Castle P42 New Abbey Corn Mill P15

04 | Unpick the truth of the captive Mary’s embroidery

REGULARS

4 THE SCRIPT News and updates from Historic Scotland sites around the country 49 MEMBERSHIP 50 EVENTS 56 GUESS THE YEAR FEATURES

22 NOVEL NOMINATION Crime writer Denise Mina shares her love of a particular bridge in Glasgow for the ‘What’s Your Heritage?’ campaign 24 REFLECTED GLORY Stunning scenes as the winners of the photo competition are unveiled 32 THE GILDED CAGE Meet the Douglas sisters – three royal descendants who

were hidden from the spotlight 38 THE TIME TRAVELLER Four major properties host events for the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology 42 MY DAY AS Jonathan McIntosh is thrust head first into the action-packed role of events manager at Blackness Castle’s Siege on the Forth

FIND US ON HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 3

SCRIPT

INCLUDING

The Linlithgow carvings demystified

THE

Scotland’s listed prisons go under the spotlight Bob Tevendale heralds an inconspicuous expert in survival

PEOPLE, PLACES, RESEARCH AND MORE …

Win an Outlander Fraser tartan lambswool scarf

A STITCH IN TIME

The Marian Hanging is underpinned by political intrigue

Replica embroidery hanging reveals the story of a captive Mary Queen of Scots

I

t has taken more than 7,337 hours of work by 33 volunteer stitchers.

Now, the replica of a hanging embroidered by Mary Queen of Scots during her years of imprisonment is to be unveiled.

The volunteer embroidery team, recruited from

Edinburgh and beyond, have helped recreate the Marian Hanging using traditional colours, tools and methods.

Visitors will be able to see the replica in the Royal Apartment at Edinburgh Castle from Easter.

The original work is one of a triptych

of hangings that has been at Oxburgh Hall, Norfolk, since 1761. Of the three

Oxburgh Hangings, the Marian Hanging is most closely associated with Mary.

Made up of 37 embroidered panels – 18 bearing the queen’s initials – Mapping out it is underpinned a panel for the replica hanging

4 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Volunteer stitchers work on the replica

by political intrigue and thwarted royal ambition.

Melissa Viguier, trustee of The School of Ancient Crafts, and founder of the replica project, says: “The Oxburgh Hangings were made by the imprisoned Mary Queen of Scots and Bess of Hardwick, the wife of her captor, George Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury. It is hard to imagine a more unusual friendship developing.

“Mary spent 19 years – nearly half of her lifetime – in custody. During her imprisonment she tried to communicate with her supporters, to plead her

case. She encrypted her correspondence to get past her captor, and of course her freedom in every sense was restricted, but through her embroidery she was able to express herself more freely.”

Melissa adds: “Some of her embroidery is so expressive it has been described as incriminating. The centre panel of the Marian Hanging depicts the hand of God holding a sickle. The sickle cuts off the sickly part of a vine, leaving the fruitful part to prosper. This panel was given to the Duke of Norfolk, Mary’s suitor, during her imprisonment.

“On the surface it looks like an agricultural scene – the panel is packed with animals and plants – but it was actually used as evidence in the trial of the Duke of Norfolk for treason.”

The Marian Hanging replica project began in 2014 with the launch of the Heritage Sewing Group. Melissa visited Oxburgh Hall to see the original before the group examined photographs of each panel and began mapping out the hanging.

“This is where needlework meets detective work,” says Melissa. “Our embroiderers had to select colours and make sense of damage, repairs and missing sections on the panels.”

Once the embroiderers were recruited, the intricate practical work began, along with a journey into the world of its ill-fated maker.

“The hanging is crammed full of information from the 16th century,” says Melissa.

“It’s like a textile time capsule – you can learn about sport, food, classical literature, wildlife, mythology and heraldry. But what makes it truly compelling is the story of the makers themselves.”

The replica of the Marian Hanging will be at Edinburgh Castle from Easter

BLAIRS MUSEUM ABERDEEN

EMBROIDERY BY NUMBERS

7,337

Hours needed to create the replica Marian Hanging

18

Panels in the Marian Hanging bearing Mary’s initials

THE MARIAN HANGING 5 FACTS The embroideries were made between 1569 and 1584

1

The panels were made by stitching coloured silk on to linen canvas using cross stitch and tent stitch

2

The hanging consists of a central panel plus eight octagonal and 28 smaller, cross-shaped panels depicting plants, birds, animals and fish, 18 of which bear Mary’s initials

3

“Virescit vulnere virtus” – virtue flourishes by wounding – is inscribed on the original embroideries, along with the royal arms of Scotland and Mary's initials. A version of this panel was sent to the Duke of Norfolk, who was planning to marry Mary and overthrow Queen Elizabeth.

He was executed in 1572

4

The motifs were chosen by Mary to express some of her most private thoughts at a time when her captors were scrutinising her correspondence

5

169

Stitches per square inch within each octagon panel

Memorial portrait of Mary Queen of Scots

THE SCRIPT

PIECES OF ROYAL PUZZLE REVEALED Researchers size up the mysterious sculptures of Linlithgow Palace

D

ETAILED inspections originally and what’s the and photographs story and significance of it? have been made of “We don’t even know carvings at Linlithgow Palace when much of it dates from, as the first stage of research and to make things even to learn more about what more complicated key items they are, what they mean, have been lost. The main who commissioned and characters are missing created them, and more. and only the supporting Historic Environment cast remains.”

Scotland (HES) staff, The pieces – of which there contractors and researchers are around 300 – are believed spent time at the palace last to date from the reign of year to gather information James I to that of James V, that will ultimately shape and could improve our new interpretation panels at understanding of those kings the site and influence future and how they wished to conservation work. be perceived.

Dr Sally Rush, senior Dr Rush adds: “We want to lecturer in history of art look at what their at the University of Glasgow, motivations were; what they was among those to get a wanted to say about close look at sculptures, themselves through the including some far from the decoration of their palaces. average visitor’s view. She “As at Stirling Castle, we was taken up on a cherry have almost no written picker at the east side of the sources to guide us. So the palace to examine intricate only way to approach the animal carvings. research is to decide what Dr Rush has been you think an item of commissioned by the visitor sculpture might represent experience, content and and look for other examples learning team to study elsewhere. You can the significance of the then use comparison sculptures. This to back up your follows a similar original idea.” project she Interpretation undertook at panels at Stirling Castle Linlithgow with great results.

Palace will be She explains: updated to “The main reflect some questions for of the me are what findings this did the summer.

The only remaining figure of three over the inside of sculpture Dr Rush the south entrance comprise of is also 6 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

East-side animal carvings

The research is like doing a jigsaw working with a visual team, lending her expertise on furniture, textile history and fashion to advise on illustrations.

The research will continue through 2017, as she compares evidence from the palace with anything that might offer clues to the story behind the sculptures.

“There’s a big face, a fragment that was found on site, and I’m quite convinced that it’s St Michael. There’s a surviving statue of St Michael on the church beside the palace, and when you compare its face to this one, I’m pretty sure that’s what we’ve got.

“It’s like doing a jigsaw puzzle. Once you’ve got a couple of pieces to fit, you can start building the rest of the puzzle.”

THE SCRIPT

Participants in the Great Hall, Stirling Castle

High resolution: photography can help unlock the carvings’ secrets

CARERS TAKE THE HIGH ROAD

Youngsters follow in drovers’ footsteps A GROUP of young carers took part in a ‘wilderness journey’ tracking the route of Highland castle drovers, in an initiative by life skills and mentoring charity Venture Trust and Historic Environment Scotland.

The group attended workshops before their journey, which took in Auchindrain, Loch Katrine and Doune Castle, and finished with a hands-on demonstration of stone

carving, a scaffold tour and certificate ceremony in the Great Hall at Stirling Castle.

The group, who walked an average of eight miles a day, learned about the essential role of the drovers in Highland life, as well as gaining new transferable skills.

A second group has now begun the programme, which was made possible by an award from the Heritage Lottery Fund.

MOONRISE KINGDOM

HISTORIC Scotland member Ann Armstrong has won the 2016 Draw History contest with this haunting painting of Doune Castle, inspired by the time-travelling drama Outlander.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 7

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A

wealth of heritage sites, ancient monuments, folklore and traditions graces Orkney and Shetland. In the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology, the islands are an ideal destination – and easy to reach with NorthLink Ferries.

Thought to date back to before 3,500 BC, the Ness of Brodgar excavation site is an extraordinary find beside the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site’s Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness.

Archaeologists travel from around the globe to join the dig at the site every summer.

Some of Orkney’s oldest structures are on Rousay.

With more than 160 archaeological sites, including cairns and burial tombs, the island has been nicknamed the Egypt of the North.

Maeshowe Chambered Cairn, on Orkney’s mainland, is around 5,000 years old and provides an insight into some of the earliest feats of structural engineering.

Down the road, with perfectly preserved stone beds, dressers and hearths, the world-famous village of Skara Brae also provides an amazing glimpse into Neolithic life.

Jarlshof, on Shetland’s mainland, is a multi-period

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8 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

settlement with artefacts spanning more than 4,000 years from the Neolithic era to the 17th century. The islands are also home to the Iron Age Mousa Broch – an almost fully intact 13m high fortress tower located on the uninhabited island of Mousa, which can be visited on daily sailings.

Britain’s northernmost castle is located on Unst.

Muness Castle is the impressive remains of a tower house dating back to the late 16th century.

Setting sail from Aberdeen or Scrabster on one of NorthLink Ferries’ state-ofthe-art ships, you can enjoy a range of food and drink, freshly prepared using locally sourced and Fairtrade produce from Orkney, Shetland and across the north of Scotland. From the deck you’ll have the chance to spot some of the islands’ stunning birdlife, including razorbills and guillemots, which soar above the waves and nest on the Old Man of Hoy. The famous sea stack can be seen while sailing past on MV Hamnavoe between Scrabster and Stromness in Orkney.

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THE SCRIPT

Edinburgh Castle is among the sites that will go dark for Earth Hour

Users can customise their Canmore map searches

TIME TRAVEL

BY MAP

Discover new ways to explore online

MAKE THE SWITCH Landmark properties to be part of Earth Hour action

A HOST of iconic Scottish landmarks will switch switch-off. As part of last year’s event off their lights on 25 March at 8.30pm for Historic Scotland marked Earth Hour on WWF’s Earth Hour. social media.

The charity’s global campaign A cuddly toy panda, Munro, was encourages organisations and photographed on a tour of sites individuals to take action across the country, with an against climate change. eager following on Twitter Participating Historic at #PassThePanda.

Scotland properties This year we are include Arbroath Abbey, delighted that Historic Dunkeld Cathedral, Environment Scotland has The team Linlithgow Palace and been named Public Body accept their Edinburgh Castle, which Champion by WWF WWF award will turn its floodlights to Scotland for its climategreen ahead of the change activity.

GLASGOW MUSEUMS COLLECTION

A scale model of the Iona I paddlesteamer

CANMORE, the web-based catalogue to Scotland’s archaeology, buildings, and industrial and maritime heritage, has expanded its search functions, allowing users to Uncover changes browse the over the years collection via historic Ordnance Survey maps.

A menu enables users to switch on different layers of data, giving extra context to photographs and other archived material. Maps dating from as far back as the 19th century come courtesy of the National Library of Scotland. canmore.org.uk/map

SHIPWRECK SITE PROTECTED

Designation for remains of rare Victorian vessel THE remains of Iona I, a Clyde-built paddlesteamer, have been designated as a Historic Marine Protected Area under the Marine (Scotland) Act 2010.

The shipwreck site in the Firth of Clyde off Gourock is of national importance as a

rare example of a Victorian passenger steamer which had been converted to be a Confederate blockade runner during the American Civil War (1861-1865).

Around 300 Clyde-built steamers were sold to Southern rebel forces.

Iona I was en route to the Bahamas on 2 October 1862 when it collided with another ship, and sank.

The wreck lies in almost 30m of water and includes parts of the hull, boilers, engines, paddle and crankshaft assemblies.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 9

THE SCRIPT

The damaged sentry turret

The west summit flagpole was struck

LIGHTNING STRIKES CASTLE Turret damaged at Dumbarton stronghold IT HAS survived the challenges of history – and been battered by the Scottish weather – but Dumbarton Castle has been damaged by a bolt of lightning.

This summer a team of masons and apprentices will begin work on an 18th-century turret and other parts of the castle hit by the lightning strike during the Christmas break.

Ian Lambie, district architect, said: “The main damage was to an early 18th-century pepper pot-

Masonry blocks have been secured

shaped sentry turret on the east summit of Dumbarton Rock.

“The masonry-domed roof of the turret suffered extensive damage. The incredible force of the lightning strike also displaced

the heavy masonry drum of the turret.

“The flagpole on the west summit – the White Tower Crag – was struck and the finial was shattered.”

The unstable masonry on the turret has been secured

and the damaged areas are being surveyed before reconstruction work gets under way.

“The conservation work will be an extremely interesting project for our staff and visitors,” added Ian.

LET’S GET GEOPHYSICAL

Archaeological surveys at Lochmaben Castle inspire continued community involvement

Village residents hear from cultural resources adviser Adrian Cox

10 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

LOCHMABEN residents enjoyed guided walks and talks on the castle’s history and archaeology during geophysics survey work carried out at the end of last year.

The research identified several ‘anomalies of potential interest’ that the cultural resources team is keen to investigate.

Built by Edward I and with links to the Bruce and Douglas families, as well as James IV, James V and Mary Queen of Scots, the fortress had a key role in the cross-border Wars of Independence.

Cultural resources adviser Adrian Cox said: “We hope that a programme of excavation this year will continue the involvement of local people through our partnership with the Castle Loch Lochmaben Community Trust.”

Digs are mooted for this summer

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THE SCRIPT

VICTORIAN VISIONS

Exhibition curated by St Andrews students aims to illuminate town’s past STUDENTS from the University of St Andrews are shedding light on the past by curating an exhibition featuring items from our collections and archives.

Victorian Visions: Discovery and Restoration in St Andrews explores the excavations, finds and preservation of the town between 1837 and 1901 through photographs, archaeological objects and drawings.

The students, who are working towards an MLitt in museum and gallery studies, curated the exhibition in partnership with Historic Environment Scotland as part of the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology.

The display is complemented by a programme of educational events for adults and children.

For more information on the exhibition, visit victorianvisions. wordpress.com

The breathtaking interior of St Peter's

Beat the crowds at Stirling Castle

SKIP THE QUEUE

Fast-track entry for members launched

The student curators behind Victorian Visions and, left, a medieval stone head of Christ found in the monastic latrine of St Andrews Cathedral in 1894

MEMBERS visiting Edinburgh and Stirling castles can access the sites more quickly with their barcoded membership cards. Forget the queue for the ticket office and head straight to the scanning area, where your barcode will get you in.

Life members bringing guests can also go straight to the scanning point with their barcoded card as the system recognises the guest allowance.

Your card will also be scanned for retail purchases to apply the 20% discount.

For more information, including the updated privacy notice, go to historicenvironment.scot/ member, contact members@hes.scot or call 0131 668 8999.

MODERNIST MASTERPIECE Book reveals the stories of Cardross seminary

ARCHITECTURAL historian Diane Watters explores the past of St Peter’s Seminary in a striking book featuring images from our collection. ‘St Peter’s, Cardross’ is available from Historic Scotland shops and online. historicenvironment.scot/shop/stpeters For 20% discount use code MEMBER1016

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 13

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THE SCRIPT

TAKE TWO

CELEBRATE NATIONAL MILLS WEEKEND

MILLS

NEWS IN BRIEF

Explore Scotland’s industrial history

13–14 May SEE PAGE 53

ONLINE BOOKING FOR LOCHLEVEN CASTLE l Visitors to Lochleven Castle can now book their sailing in advance online.

See historicenvironment. scot/lochleven-castle MAESHOWE BUS SERVICE l Access arrangements for Maeshowe have changed.

Visitors will be taken to the property by free shuttle bus as the car park at Tormiston Mill visitor centre remains closed. Booking is strongly recommended. See historicenvironment.scot/ maeshowe

EUAN ROBERTSON; SHUTTERSTOCK

CLIMATE CHANGE ADVICE IN SHORT GUIDE l A new publication looks at a range of methods to protect traditional buildings from the effects of climate change. Read Short Guide II: Climate Change Adaptation for Traditional Buildings at historicenvironment. scot/publications SAVE THE DATES l Watch out for two special dates within the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology. Stirling hosts History Live on Saturday 30 September and Sunday 1 October. Venues will include Stirling Castle and the Engine Shed. Friday 6 October marks Scotland's first Heritage Awareness Day, with activities across the country. Find out more and get involved at historic environment.scot/hha2017

STANLEY MILLS The cotton mill was built in 1786 at the beginning of the Industrial Revolution.

The nearby village of Stanley was established at around the same time.

Cotton, although a corn mill also operated there in the 18th century.

VS

WHEN

PRODUCED

NEW ABBEY CORN MILL The first mill on this site may date from the late 1200s.

The mill you can visit today was built in the 1790s.

Oatmeal, a staple in the Scottish diet until barely a century ago (and still, of course, enjoyed in many dishes).

The cotton process involves 'carding, drawing, roving, spinning, winding and warping'. Water-powered machinery and a staff made up mostly of women and children made it happen.

HOW IT WORKED

The mill, originally water-powered, was converted to steam, then electrical power. A long man-made channel (lade) brought water to the mill wheel, which turned to power the machinery.

The Bell Mill, with its round window, belfry and spire, and the carding room in the Mid Mill with its imposing machinery.

MUST!SEE

The restored mill is in full working order and can be seen in action at certain times from April to September.

WILDLIFE

The ponds surrounding the mill host frogs, toads, herons and kingfishers.

Otters and Atlantic salmon are found in the River Tay. Its waters were channelled to power the mills.

Huntingtower Castle, honeymoon destination of Mary Queen of Scots and Lord Darnley.

NEARBY

The Cistercian monks thought to have built the first mill on this site came from Sweetheart Abbey, around half a mile away.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 15

THE SCRIPT

The gateway to HMP Dumfries A pottery find in Caithness

A Victorian cell block at HMP Perth

ARCHAEOLOGY VOLUNTEERS WANTED A chance to dig in at sites in a range of locations

THE PAST UNLOCKED

A major review explores the history of Scotland’s listed prisons SCOTTISH prisons are in the spotlight as a report on listed buildings used for incarceration is published.

Historic Environment Scotland has teamed up with the Scottish Prison Service to review the designation of buildings at sites including HMP Perth,

16 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

built between 1810-12 by captives from the Napoleonic wars, and HMP Dumfries.

Elizabeth McCrone, head of designations, explains HMP Perth is of particular significance. Formerly the General Prison for Scotland, it played a pivotal role in creation of a national prison in the 19th century.

She said: “The A window in D Block of site of HMP HMP Perth Perth has its origins as The Depôt, Scotland’s principal place of internment for French prisoners of war. Designed

by Robert Reid

as a military prison, it was later chosen as the site for the General Prison for Scotland, constructed from 1839-42.

“The listed cell blocks, completed by architect Robert Matheson, are important examples of prison architecture. The prison used the pioneering separation system – a form of solitary confinement where prisoners were kept in separate cells and not allowed to talk to one another. These are the oldest cell blocks still in use.”

HMP Perth and HMP Dumfries are the only listed purpose-built prisons still used by the Scottish Prison Service.

For more information visit portal.historicenvironment.scot

See digit2017.com/events or archaeologyscotland. org.uk/events for details on these and other projects

SCAPE

The entrance gate to HMP Perth

PROJECTS across the country are seeking volunteers with a passion for history.

Northern Picts, based at the University of Aberdeen, aims to uncover traces of Pictish society in northern Scotland. With a number of excavations this summer, there are openings in field projects and in the labs. Contact project leader Dr Gordon Noble at g.noble@abdn.ac. uk if you are interested.

Meanwhile, SCAPE Trust works to research, promote and conserve coastal sites, particularly those under threat from erosion. Plans include an excavation at the possible site of one of James IV’s royal dockyards on the Forth near Airth and a survey ‘between the brochs’ at Skirza and Nybster in Caithness.

Contact info@scharp.co.uk or 01334 463017.

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Call Northumbria Travel 01670 829922 Visit www.northumbriatravel.com or email us at info@northumbriatravel.com 82 Front Street East, Bedlington, Northumberland NE22 5AB Prices are per person and based on two sharing the lowest grade stateroom available. Prices include booking discounts advertised and are subject to availability. All offers end 31st March 2017. Single supplements apply. Details shown above are correct at the time of going to print.*Restrictions apply. IMPORTANT: VISA REQUIRED A Russian visa must be arranged in advance at an approximate cost of £215 per person. Please note that current Russian visa regulations require a personal visit to the Russian Embassy in either London or Edinburgh to complete the application process, which is at your own cost. Please note that the cost and process to obtain a Russian visa can change at any time.

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SCOTLAND

2017 Tours 14th Annual Outlander Tour®

Based on the book series by Diana Gabaldon. Time travel, history, intrigue, passion, loyalty, and pride – the 18th-century Highlands.

3 Departures: May 14, September 17 • 7 Nights • $3,595 June 25-July 5 • 10 Nights • $4,595

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August 13-27, 2017 • 14 Nights • $5,995

2017 Tours Haunted Scotland

Rosslyn Chapel, Glamis Castle, Fyvie Castle, Elgin Cathedral, Culloden Battlefield, Clava Cairns, Eilean Donan Castle, Kilmartin Glen’s ancient monuments, Culzean Castle, and the Tam O’Shanter Experience with Rabbie Burns!

October 24-November 1 • 8 Nights • $3,595

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Ring in the New Year with a traditional Highland celebration at the award-winning 18th-century Culloden House. A five-star experience!

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Deluxe escorted tours• 18-guest maximum• E-mail Judy@celticjourneys.us for more information

Call us at 703.941.6455 • www.CelticJourneys.us

Glamis Castle_HS_Spr_17.indd 1

13/02/2017 16:12

THE THESCRIPT SCRIPT

WIN

TARTAN CHIC

The herald moth’s wing shape and colour help it evade detection

The herald of spring

SHUTTERSTOCK

This russet-coloured moth is an expert in survival, says natural history adviser Bob Tevendale

My favourite sign of spring – apart from the appearance in woodlands of wild garlic, which makes great pesto – is the herald moth. It is so named not because it signals the coming of spring, although it does, but for its lovely markings. Its deep russet colour and distinctively shaped wing patterns are reminiscent of the cloak a herald wears at the royal court. Similarly, in some places the goldfinch is called the ‘sheriff’s mail’ for its brilliant plumage.

The herald moth is a master at survival. Its wing shape and colour mimic an autumn leaf, helping it evade foraging birds. Long-lived, it hibernates to cope with the winter months when its food plants are not in bloom.

I often come across herald moths while surveying our sites for hibernating bats. There are more than 2,500 species of moth in the UK, some of which hibernate through the colder months. Many species spend winters as eggs or as pupae, but quite a number overwinter as adults. Why the herald should be the only one to spend winter in caves and mines is unclear.

Along with bats, these moths seek out cool, damp and dark places. Caves are ideal, but castle cellars or Iron Age souterrains are just as good.

Bats don’t hibernate but go into a state of torpor, waking from time to time. Scientists are unsure why – perhaps they need a comfort break – but when awake they will take the

VIEW FROM OUTDOORS

chance to feed if possible. Why, I am often asked, do they not pick off the moths? Although bats have excellent eyesight, the moths are camouflaged and by staying still and hugging the rock surface go undetected by a bat’s echolocation – the use of reflected sound to locate objects.

Come the spring when it takes to the wing, the herald moth has another trick up its sleeve. It has a rudimentary ear. This basic hearing organ is tuned to the frequency of a bat’s echolocation call. On hearing an approaching bat the moth performs an erratic flight, giving it a better chance of escape.

The herald moth’s nemesis, however, is the brown long-eared bat, which has evolved to get by with a faint echolocation call. It flies relatively slowly and has excellent eyesight so has less need than other species for advance warning of obstacles. Its enormous ears give it phenomenal hearing to listen for prey. Known as the whispering bat, its faint call means moths are unable to hear it coming.

The bat is able to pluck unsuspecting moths off leaves where they are resting. A commonly found sign of brown long-eared bat activity is a pile of discarded moth wings.

FACT: OUT AND ABOUT The herald moth has been spotted at St Margaret’s Well in Holyrood Park, Edinburgh and Hailes Castle, East Lothian.

This official Outlander scarf, inspired by the hit time-travel drama, could be yours. Wrap yourself in the 100% lambswool Fraser tartan scarf crafted by the Scottish firm Ingles Buchan and be transported on a Jacobite adventure. We have three Outlander scarves to give away. For your chance to win, answer the following: PRIZE QUESTION Who stars as Outlander hero Jamie Fraser?

Post your answer and details to HS Outlander Competition, Think, Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA, or email hscomps@ thinkpublishing.co.uk including “HS Outlander Competition” in the subject line. The closing date is 23 April.

BUY ME The Outlander scarf, price £37.50, is available from Historic Scotland shops including at Blackness, Doune and Edinburgh castles, or online at historicenvironment. scot/shop. For a 20% discount use the code MEMBER1016.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 19

THE SCRIPT

Spotlight on

KINNAIRD HEAD CASTLE LIGHTHOUSE

This northerly property has illuminating links to more than one well-known Scottish dynasty It is among the best-preserved structures of the ancient nine ‘castles of the knuckle’ dotted along the Buchan coastline in north-east Scotland.

Kinnaird Head Castle and the adjacent Wine Tower are believed to have been built by Alexander Fraser of Philorth in around 1570 to demonstrate the family’s dominance over the town of Fraserburgh, Sold to the Northern Lighthouse Board, the castle was converted into Scotland’s first mainland lighthouse, and first lit in 1787. The light was designed by Edinburgh engineer Thomas Smith.

The arrival in 1824 of Robert Stevenson – grandfather of Robert Louis Stevenson – marked the start of significant structural redesigns, including the circular lighthouse tower built up through the heart of the castle to support the lantern room and provide keepers’ accommodation.

The Stevenson dynasty, which built most of the

TIMELINE 1570 Kinnaird Castle and the Wine Tower are built, it is believed, by Alexander Fraser

20 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

lighthouses in Scotland, continued to play a significant role. Robert Stevenson’s son, Alan Stevenson (1807–1865), fitted the first lens light and built the first lighthouse keepers’ cottages in 1851. David A Stevenson (1854–1938) installed a new lens assembly and, in 1907, developed the cottages that stand today.

Additions to the lighthouse included a pneumatic foghorn, built in 1902 to provide an alternative warning signal in times of low visibility, and the first radio beacon in Scotland, constructed in 1929.

The last fog signal was in 1987 and the lighthouse was decommissioned in 1991 after an automatic light was built.

However, the Museum of Scottish Lighthouses provides a fascinating glimpse into a now-lost way of life, and the area is home to species such as guillemots, razorbills and eider ducks. The lighthouse is managed by HES, in partnership with the museum.

8. WINE TOWER Constructed in around 1570 by the Fraser family, the upper vaulted chamber contains seven stone-carved roof pendants depicting the Frasers’ family connections and commitment to the Catholic faith

7. LIGHTKEEPERS’ COTTAGE Built by David A Stevenson in 1907, these properties had gardens enclosed by protective walls, which offered keepers a practical and enjoyable hobby when off duty.

The Northern Lighthouse Board provided standardised furniture and it was only in 1974 that keepers began to be allowed to decorate their own homes

6. ENGINE ROOM This building housed the engines that powered the foghorn, and was built in 1902. The 44-horsepower Kelvin K2 engines were installed in 1950 to replace the original paraffin engines, with an 18-horsepower Ruston engine used as a standby

EXPLORE KINNAIRD HEAD CASTLE LIGHTHOUSE

ABERDEEN

KINNAIRD HEAD CASTLE LIGHTHOUSE The site is in Fraserburgh, a 70-minute drive north from Aberdeen. Visit lighthousemuseum.org. uk/tours for opening hours

1787

1824

The Northern Lighthouse Board constructs its first lighthouse at Kinnaird Head. Retired sea captain James Park becomes the country’s first official lighthouse keeper and is paid one shilling a night

Robert Stevenson drastically redesigns the facility, building a circular lighthouse tower to contain the new light

1. LIGHTHOUSE An adaptation of the original tower house building of the 1570s, Scotland’s first mainland lighthouse was constructed by the Northern Lighthouse Board in 1787 and significantly augmented in 1824.

2. NET)DRYING POSTS Once used to dry the fishing nets of the lighthouse compound 3. MUSEUM OF SCOTTISH LIGHTHOUSES Established in the 1990s during the automation programme of Scottish lighthouses, the museum houses a remarkable collection including ship models, lights, lenses and keepers’ uniforms

4. MODERN LIGHTHOUSE This small automatic lighthouse was built in 1991 and the old lighthouse decommissioned. It is controlled by the Northern Lighthouse Board in Edinburgh DID YOU KNOW? Robert Stevenson, the great lighthouse engineer, originally wanted to replace the tower with a purpose-built structure.

He modified his plans after an expedition with Sir Walter Scott

SHUTTERSTOCK

5. FOGHORN Constructed in 1902, the foghorn was a navigational aid during adverse conditions.

Powered by engines, Kinnaird Head’s fog signal was a seven-second blast every 75 seconds. Its use was discontinued in 1987

1902

1929

1987

1991

The enginepowered foghorn is installed as a navigational aid during treacherous conditions

Scotland’s first permanent radio beacon is introduced at Kinnaird Head

The foghorn signal is discontinued but its machinery and air tanks are preserved

Kinnaird Head Castle Lighthouse is decommissioned and replaced by an automatic structure controlled by the Northern Lighthouse Board

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 21

THE SCRIPT TEXT IN HERE

A NOVEL SUGGESTION

F

rom its six World Heritage Sites to its ancient battlefields and rich artistic traditions, Scotland has a cultural legacy renowned the world over.

To help celebrate the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology, we have launched an online and social media campaign to find the nation’s favourite place or building. What’s Your Heritage? asks people across the nation to choose their favourite corner of Scotland and help ensure it is enjoyed by generations to come.

Now, as the campaign reaches its final stage, crime writer Denise Mina nominates a quiet area of Glasgow treasured by her family.

HOW TO GET INVOLVED Visit historicenvironment. scot/whatsyourheritage and fill in the online survey to be in with a chance to win a year’s free Historic Scotland membership Join in on Twitter using the hashtag #MyHeritageIs

Kelvin Stevenson Memorial Church and Belmont Street Bridge

22 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

WHY I NOMINATE BELMONT STREET BRIDGE

By Denise Mina Belmont Street Bridge is such a startling sight, and one that is probably unfamiliar to many people in Glasgow.

Nestled in a corner of the city’s west end, it symbolises its Victorian excess, something that really struck me when I moved back to the city in the 1980s.

It’s quite a nostalgic place for me. The first time I stumbled across it my friends were in the middle of a furious argument, but I remember being totally taken aback at how it was teeming with wildlife, trees and plants.

The area changes

drastically with the seasons.

In the winter it can be a bit bleak but the imposing presence of the Kelvin Stevenson Memorial Church clinging on to the bridge above the steep incline to the River Kelvin below is like something ripped from the pages of a graphic novel. It’s just incredible.

In the spring and summer the area is so verdant and beautiful. It’s filled with gangs of dragonflies and flowering trees – there’s stuff just growing everywhere. The area is home to herons and a popular spot for fishermen to while away an afternoon. It feels very much like a wild garden within the city. My kids go to primary school nearby so it’s an exciting route for us all to explore.

It has become a really special place for me and my family, and I spend a lot of time here. Lots of people run here and it’s usually filled with loads of kids getting taught how to ride bikes because it’s quite flat. It’s just really lovely. The Kelvin Stevenson Memorial Church is well used too and houses the Boys’ Brigade and ballet

classes. It’s an intrinsic part of the community.

Lots of people are familiar with Kelvingrove Park but few are aware of the historic sites that splinter from it. It’s a great area to explore Belmont Street Bridge and teach kids about the industrial heritage of Glasgow, especially with the old flint mill nearby.

If I said to a stranger, ‘One of my favourite parts of Glasgow is a Victorian bridge that looms 50 feet over a river and which hardly anyone knows about’, they’d look at me funny. But what I love about Belmont Street Bridge is that the site isn’t precious. It’s living and breathing heritage. Whether you walk it, run it or cycle under it, you’re always startled by how impressive it looks.

The bridge hasn’t inspired any of my writings yet but maybe it will one day, who knows? At the moment, it’s a place for me to escape to.

There are loads of forgotten historical fragments and wee communities like this in Glasgow just waiting to be discovered.

VICTORIAN SPLENDOUR SPANS THE GENERATIONS Built in 1870 for the City of Glasgow Bank, Belmont Street Bridge was created to connect its North Woodside development land with Hillhead and Great Western Road.

The bank specified a ‘handsome stone

bridge’, leading to the creation of this grandiose Victorian structure, the imposing effect of which is heightened by the commanding presence of the adjacent Kelvin Stevenson Memorial Church.

The tall abutments are in rusticated stone, and there are elegant carved stone parapets at street level.

The Kelvin Walkway passes beneath, leading to the remains of North Woodside Mill, which was once used to

grind gunpowder for the Napoleonic Wars. It was decommissioned in the late 1950s.

The River Kelvin runs under Belmont Street Bridge and is home to a wide variety of wildlife such as Atlantic salmon, otters and kingfishers.

SIMON MURPHY

Crime writer Denise Mina joins the campaign to discover Scotland's favourite historic place

What I love about the bridge is that the site isn’t precious.

It’s living, breathing heritage

WWW.HISTORIC!SCOTLAND.GOV.UK 23

PHOTOGRAPHY

Reflected glory The winning images from the Historic Scotland photography competition give alluring glimpses of our sites

24 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

PHOTOGRAPHY

T

he judges were delighted to see some really striking and different photographs among this year’s entries, giving fresh perspectives on well-trodden sites.

After much deliberation, the panel settled on this shot as its winner in the properties category and overall.

On the following pages, you can see some of the panel’s other favourite entries across the properties, architecture, having fun and nature categories, and youth entries snapped by those aged under 16.

There were many worthy winners throughout, leading to hot debate on who to crown with the overall accolade.

OVERALL WINNER BLACKNESS CASTLE Jonathan Cruickshank This serene shot of the 15th-century castle inspired the judging panel, winning Jonathan an iPad mini and – as with all category winners – a year’s membership renewal

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 25

PROPERTIES

PHOTOGRAPHY

COMMENDED STIRLING CASTLE Richard Harris This jewel in Scotland’s crown is captured in a still, mesmerising scene SMAILHOLM TOWER FAR RIGHT Robert Shepherd This 15th-century towerhouse makes a great subject for an atmospheric image

COMMENDED LINLITHGOW PALACE Benn Isherwood The beauty of nature and a historic property come together in this image

26 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

ARCHITECTURE

PHOTOGRAPHY

WINNER BLACKNESS CASTLE ABOVE

Ana Barrera Gordillo Ana gives an unusual and attractive perspective on the 15th-century castle COMMENDED MELROSE ABBEY RIGHT Chris Harding This conveys the graceful design of an abbey beloved of Robert the Bruce SETON COLLEGIATE CHURCH RIGHT Jonathan Cruickshank Jonathan has captured the fine stonework of this medieval church

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 27

PHOTOGRAPHY

WINNER

HAVING FUN

STIRLING CASTLE Agnes Mitchell The drama of a siege is captured in this explosive image of re-enactors

COMMENDED BLACKNESS CASTLE RIGHT Norma Macleod Children absorbed in games of the past make a strong subject for this image STIRLING CASTLE BELOW Gordon Robertson A spontaneous and fun-filled

28 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

photograph conveys the joy of history LINLITHGOW PALACE BELOW RIGHT

Nicole Robert A mischievous moment is caught by Nicole during our Spectacular Jousting event

NATURE

PHOTOGRAPHY

WINNER BALVAIRD CASTLE ABOVE Fraser Hetherington The surroundings of the 15th-century towerhouse make for an enticing pastoral image COMMENDED EDINBURGH CASTLE LEFT Nicole Robert Edinburgh Castle is given a particularly Scottish feel in this imaginative shot DIRLETON CASTLE BELOW Wendy Sodergren A frenzy of activity in a corner of a herbaceous border is captured in this colour-infused photograph

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 29

YOUTH

PHOTOGRAPHY

WINNER DUNFERMLINE ABBEY Mairead McGuigan A woodland-wildlife moment is caught in this portrait of a grey squirrel COMMENDED ABERDOUR CASTLE AND GARDENS Jamie Robertson The fruits of the orchard are captured at one of Scotland’s oldest stone castles

TAKEN A GREAT SHOT? Historic Scotland’s 2017 photo competition will be launched in our next issue – but if you’ve got a corker you can’t wait to share, why not head to Twitter? @welovehistory

30 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

PAS T LI V E S

THE GILDED CAGE They were three royal granddaughters destined for power. So why were they hidden away in grand homes?

WORDS: AMY BLAKEWAY PHOTOGRAPH: BILL CUMMING

32 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

KINNEIL HOUSE The home of Margaret Douglas during a troubled marriage to the second earl of Arran

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 33

PAS T LI V E S

F

‘OWTE OF HIS WYTTE’ One family of social standing and proximity to royalty who faced these issues were the Douglas earls of Morton.

Margaret Douglas, her youngest sister Elizabeth, and their middle sibling Beatrix were granddaughters of James IV and all were affected by mental illness.

Their parents were James Douglas, the wealthy Earl of Morton, and Katherine Stewart, an illegitimate daughter of James IV. Probably born during the early 1530s, evidence for the sisters’ condition only dates from 1562. In this year, Margaret’s eldest son, James Hamilton, 3d Earl of Arran, had a public outburst that threatened the political stability of the Scottish court. Trying to explain this behaviour, the English ambassador to Scotland, Sir Thomas Randolph, wrote to William Cecil, secretary of Elizabeth I of England, that the young man was ‘owte of his wytte’, and that he shared his illness with his mother and two aunts.

Although Beatrix – who had married Lord Maxwell – was by this time dead, she, like her sisters, wrote Randolph, was at ‘certayne tymes or the most parte of the yere distempered with an unquiet humour’. This KINNEIL HOUSE PAINTINGS One of the stunning works thought to be by the court painter Walter Binning

34 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Regent Morton (left) and the 2nd Earl of Arran

chance comment also helps explain why Margaret and Elizabeth, whose husbands ruled Scotland as regents, are almost entirely invisible to historians.

ROYAL MINORITY In 1542 James V of Scotland died, leaving his heir, Mary Queen of Scots, monarch at only six days old. Scotland would wait 18 years before she was old enough to rule, so arrangements had to be made to govern the country during this period of royal minority. The Scots followed long-established tradition and appointed the next in line to the throne, James Hamilton, 2nd Earl of Arran, as regent.

As a descendant of King James II, and head of the powerful Hamilton family, Arran had been an eligible

young man and his marriage to Margaret in 1532 benefited both families. As her father the Earl of Morton had no sons when they married, there was a good chance that when he died Margaret would inherit his earldom. Margaret, for her part, was marrying the king’s closest cousin.

The young couple obtained a papal dispensation allowing them to marry despite being related. Margaret received Kinneil, by Bo’ness, as her conjunct fee house, meaning she had the right to use the property during the marriage and, if Arran died, until she remarried.

Sixteenth-century noble marriages were, of course, dynastic, and from this perspective the marriage was a huge success. We know of three daughters (Barbara, Jean and Anne) and four sons (James, John, David and Claude).

MARITAL LAW However, despite producing an heir and several spares, after ten wedded years all was not well. Tantalising hints in the records show that in March 1544 Arran tried to end his marriage. While the legal papers relating to the case do not survive, we know about this event from the payments to lawyers, witness expenses, and the ‘tax’, a sort of maintenance allowance, Arran paid to Margaret in the following months. As Catholics, the couple could not have

SHUTTERSTOCK; GEORGIOS KOLLIDAS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; CHRONICLE / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

or many individuals and families mental ill health can pose serious challenges. The same was true in the 16th century – and when the family in question was one of the most powerful in the land, these challenges were political as well as personal.

Although there is a mass of evidence indicating how society responded to mental illness following the ‘madness’ of King George III, who ruled from 1760 to 1820, little survives for earlier periods. It seems likely that the shame associated with these illnesses meant families tried to keep them secret. Terms such as ‘idiot’, ‘lunatick’ or ‘furious’ were used to describe mentally ill people and while to modern ears these sound cruel they reflect the contemporary lack of understanding of mental ill health and the anxiety it provoked.

TANTALLON CASTLE The formidable fortress hid Elizabeth Douglas from political life and once hosted Mary Queen of Scots

SHUTTERSTOCK

divorced; this tax shows the marriage was not annulled – declared to have been improperly conducted and so void – but that the couple were granted a separation.

Margaret continued to live as Arran’s wife, enjoying a visit to Edinburgh Castle and receiving a new yellow taffeta dress in October. They reconciled, at least temporarily, as on 9 June 1546 their youngest child, Anne, was born. It is possible Margaret’s inability to support her husband is why he initiated divorce proceedings, although he could have simply sought a more politically advantageous wife.

ARMS AND ART Even during Arran’s regency Margaret did not have a prominent role in public life, and is likely to have spent much of her time in Kinneil. In 1550 the property was renovated extensively, when the stunning wall paintings that can still be seen today were probably undertaken by the court painter Walter Binning.

Two layers of painting remain, but the paintings from Margaret’s time include images of the Good Samaritan, Saint Jerome and Mary Magdalene. This last image in particular is typically associated with women as patrons of art, and offers a hint that Margaret had a hand in the decorative scheme. Most prominent of

The power brokers Women in 16th-century Scotland We often think of women in the past as having been compliant and obedient to their fathers and husbands – waiting quietly in the wings, bringing up families and their voices now lost to historians.

The reality was very different.

Of course, it was dynastic chance which meant that Mary Queen of Scots ruled her own country and that her mother, Mary of Guise, and grandmother, Margaret Tudor, served as regents for their children.

More broadly, however, women occupied an important role in society, managing their husbands’ estates when they were absent from home, or dead,

Movers and shakers: Annas Keith (left) and Mary Queen of Scots

trading in Scotland’s burghs and, in the case of some noblewomen, taking a role in politics and diplomacy.

This independent role in society is reflected in the fact that in 16th-century Scotland women did not change their names when they married. There are even records of one Edinburgh woman, Janet Fockart, operating a successful money-lending business.

When they were

resident in Scotland, regents’ wives including Annas Keith – married to James Stewart, Regent Moray – typically had important public duties.

Annabelle, the wife of John Erskine, Regent Mar, ran the royal nursery in Stirling Castle.

Being without a wife who could run their estates would have been a serious disadvantage for Regent Arran and Regent Morton.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 35

PAS T LI V E S

ABERDOUR CASTLE A favourite home of Regent Morton while his wife, Elizabeth, was in Tantallon Castle

all, however, were the coats of arms of Margaret and her husband, proudly proclaiming their pedigree.

After Arran’s death in 1575 Margaret’s possession of Kinneil was confirmed.

She was there in 1579, when the family was accused of treason and their lands were seized by the crown. At this time her son James (and, by implication, his brother David) was deemed to be ‘an idiot, or altogidder furious’. Margaret died later that year.

FAMILY FORTUNES The man who had attacked Margaret’s family was none other than her brother in law, James Douglas, Regent Morton, the husband of her sister Elizabeth.

When he married Elizabeth in April 1543 Regent Morton’s father, the wily Sir George Douglas, drove a hard bargain.

Sir George negotiated not only a large dowry but a promise that if the earl of Morton died without a son it would be Elizabeth who inherited, not either of her two older sisters. After the death of their father that is just what happened, and the couple inherited the vast earldom. This included the beautiful house of Aberdour, with its famous gardens.

In 1572 Elizabeth’s husband became regent on behalf of the young James VI. After the civil war which had raged between 1567 and 1573 following Mary Queen of Scots’ deposition, Edinburgh was in disrepair, and Aberdour was one of the places where he held privy council meetings. But Elizabeth was not at his side: like her sister Margaret, Elizabeth’s role in public life was nonexistent.

In 1581, after Regent Morton’s execution for treason, a jury pronounced

that Elizabeth was an ‘idiot and prodigal’ and was ‘sa sik a woman’ that she was forbidden by law to manage her own affairs. Little is known about her life, but a later family historian, David Hume of Godscroft, recorded that Elizabeth was ‘distracted of her wits’ and did not recognise her husband, and that she gave birth to ten children, who, ‘died all young’.

NOBLE RETREAT After Elizabeth became mentally ill, Godscroft explained Morton treated her ‘as became her place, and [she] had her residence at Tantallon’. This east-coast fortress, with its views of the Bass Rock and fearsome fortifications, was the property of Morton’s nephew, the Earl of Angus. It is not known if Elizabeth was there when Mary Queen of Scots visited in 1566, but in general it kept her well away from political life.

As daughters of the Earl of Morton and cousins of James V, Elizabeth and Margaret Douglas had seemed poised for lives at the heart of Scottish politics but their mental illness, probably hereditary, prevented this. Although the nature of their illness is unknown, and many questions remain about their lives, we do know that at least in the splendour of Kinneil and Tantallon the sisters had homes befitting their noble status.

KINNEIL HOUSE The home of Margaret Douglas.

Part of the Hamilton family estate, this was Margaret’s main residence after her marriage to Arran. Such houses were part of a woman’s conjunct fee – the provisions made for her on her marriage.

Visit it for its rare, beautiful 16th-century wall paintings.

36 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

ABERDOUR CASTLE AND GARDENS Explore this impressive complex, with its striking walled garden and terraces.

One of Regent Morton’s favourite residences, Aberdour is one of Scotland’s oldest stone castles. The Douglases added

buildings and raised the height of the hall house.

New interpretation panels will be installed at the castle this spring, telling the story of a fire that swept through the property in 1710. Researchers recently unearthed first-hand accounts of the incident.

TANTALLON CASTLE Part of the earldom of Angus, this is where Elizabeth Douglas lived once she had become mentally ill. The castle was besieged by James IV in 1491, James V in 1528 and Oliver Cromwell’s forces in 1651.

Popular as a film location, it featured in Under the Skin, starring Scarlett Johansson.

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HISTORY

THE TIME TRAVELLER Discover the rich backstories of four sites taking centre stage in the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology WORDS: NICKI SCOTT

FORT GEORGE

1

Amazing Ages!

Taking the formidable Fort George by storm this year is Amazing Ages!, a multi-period event showcasing many of the thrilling tales from Scotland’s fascinating past. Music will be a definite focus, particularly

›

38 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Gaelic songs related to war and conflict.

Such topics are highly relevant to Fort George, a functioning army barracks since its completion in 1769.

Built near Inverness in the wake of the 1745 Jacobite Rising, the fort was intended to guard against future threats

to the Hanoverian dynasty.

By the time of its completion the Jacobites were no longer a serious threat, so it became a place for the recruiting and training of soldiers – many of whom came from the Highland families the fort was originally meant to defend against.

Fort George still plays host to soldiers on active service, being the home base of the Black Watch, 3rd Battalion the Royal Regiment of Scotland. While it lacks the comforts of more modern barracks, refurbishments over the years have at least provided more amenities

Look out for fascinating facts at Fort George

than experienced by the fort’s early occupants. One soldier remarked in 1797 that it was the coldest place he had ever been.

The renowned Gaelic singer Margaret Stewart, who has carried out research on songs directly related to Fort George, will

be at the event, helping to bring to life the experiences of those soldiers who found their lives connecting with this dramatic site.

‘The coldest place I’ve been,’ said one soldier billeted there

Amazing Ages! is at Fort George, 12–13 August.

Visit historicenvironment. scot/amazing HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 39

HISTORY

SKARA BRAE

2

World Heritage Day Skara Brae village is part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, one of six UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Scotland. Every year these internationally important sites are celebrated on World Heritage Day on 18 April.

Skara Brae is prehistoric – meaning before written history – so there are no text records to tell us what life was like. We are reliant on

›

archaeological evidence, the structures and the objects left by people who lived here nearly 5,000 years ago.

The Westray Wife, a simple figurine found at another Neolithic site – the Links of Noltland on the Orkney island of Westray – has become world famous. But more everyday artefacts are often invaluable in helping us piece together what life was like in the Neolithic era.

Among the thousands of objects found at Skara Brae

are bone and antler pins, stone tools and beads.

The remains of animals and plants found in the middens (rubbish heaps) around the houses tell us about what people here ate. We know they were farmers who kept cattle and sheep, and grew barley and wheat. They also ate fish and shellfish, and might have used limpets for bait.

Also discovered at Skara Brae were fragments of a highly decorated kind of pottery known as Grooved

Distinctive pottery has been found at Skara Brae

CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE

3

Spectacular Jousting Spectacular Jousting is one of our most popular annual events.

This year the action comes to Caerlaverock Castle as well as Linlithgow Palace. While being an entertainment spectacle, it has its roots in serious business.

Tournaments gained popularity across medieval Europe from the 1100s, but were originally markedly different from the stagemanaged displays so familiar to us today. The highlight of

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40 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

these early events was the mêlée, in which two teams of knights – sometimes numbering in the hundreds – fought in a way not far removed from a real battle.

Its primary purpose was to prepare soldiers for war and the only real difference was that the death of an opponent was usually accidental rather than an end goal.

Over time, tournaments became more regulated and focused on spectacle rather than training; filled with pageantry,

Cheer on your chosen knight at Caerlaverock

Ware. It is likely this was made on site. However, the spread of pottery made and decorated in the same style has enabled archaeologists to track extensive links between Orkney and the rest of Britain and Ireland.

Unlike the other buildings on site, which we think were homes, archaeologists suggest Skara Brae House 8 was used as a workshop because the debris left over from making stone tools was strewn across

The Heart of Neolithic Orkney is one of six UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Scotland

they were often held to mark special occasions, such as the birth of an heir.

A highlight of these tournaments was the joust, in which two opponents met in single combat on horseback.

Using blunted lances, they tried to unhorse one another.

The colourful heraldry so closely associated with these events was part of the display, and let audiences know which knight to support. This too has its roots in the practical needs of warfare.

With faces obscured by armour and distance, coats of arms enabled soldiers to distinguish friend from foe.

Heraldry was recorded in rolls of arms, such as the Roll of Caerlaverock; an important written source for the siege of the castle in 1300 by Edward I’s invading English forces.

At the event you’ll be encouraged to pick sides and cheer on your chosen knight as they test their skills in archery, swordplay and horsemanship.

Spectacular Jousting is at Linlithgow Palace, 1-2 July, and Caerlaverock Castle, 29-30 July. Visit historicenvironment. scot/jousting and historicenvironment.scot/ knights respectively

STIRLING CASTLE

4

The Big History Weekend Featuring in many of the key events from the nation’s history, Stirling Castle is the ideal location to launch our Even so, in the 1990s programme of events for archaeologists discovered the Year of History, Heritage the remains of an early and Archaeology.

The first known reference chapel, underneath the 16th-century palace. to the castle is from the late Beneath the floor were 1000s, its history ranging several skeletons from from royal residence to between the 1200s and world-class visitor early 1400s. Forensic attraction, reflecting the examination revealed importance of the a considerable nation’s past to its amount about the present economy. lives and deaths of In between, it some of these was a garrison individuals.

– the army At the Big occupied it History Weekend after James VI there will be a chance headed south to to meet some of the become king of experts who have England in 1603. helped uncover the Perhaps most famous many fascinating for its role in the Wars James VI of histories of Scotland, of Independence, the Scotland as told through our castle stood vigil over monuments, and to hear the Scottish victory at from those who help Stirling Bridge in 1297 and preserve them for future control of the site was the generations to enjoy. main motivation for the Battle of Bannockburn in The Big History Weekend is 1314. Damage done in the at Stirling Castle, 1-2 April. wars helps explain why See stirlingcastle.gov.uk/ nothing survives above whatson ground from this period.

›

Stirling Castle, a strategic site in the Wars of Independence

SHUTTERSTOCK

Links of the floor along with Noltland broken pottery.

By recreating A free event celebrating all prehistoric pottery and six of Scotland’s World tools, craft workers and Heritage Sites will be held at experimental archaeologists Kelvingrove Art Gallery and can better understand how the originals were made and Museum, Glasgow on 11 April.

See historicenvironment. so get closer to the people scot/worldheritageday who created and used them.

From 14-18 April you can World Heritage Day is on meet potter Graham Taylor Tuesday 18 April. Visit at Skara Brae and try digit2017.com/scotland-inmaking your own pots. See six for details of more events historicenvironment.scot/ at World Heritage sites prehistoric-potter

A Victorian depiction of the Battle of Stirling Bridge

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 41

BEHIND THE SCENES

MY DAY AS AN

EVENTS MANAGER

Putting his organisational prowess to the test, Jonathan McIntosh joins the events team at Blackness Castle PHOTOGRAPHS: JEREMY SUTTON#HIBBERT

10AM At this time on a Sunday morning I would ideally be dreaming about knights in shining armour. Instead, I’m wide awake and battle ready, having traversed the country to meet the people responsible for coordinating Siege on the Forth at Blackness Castle.

This is day two of an event that brings the 15th-century fortress to life for hundreds of visitors. As I make my way along the grassy path leading towards the garrison, flocks of redshanks peep noisily, taking advantage of the low tide and tucking into a feast of worms and crabs.

Reaching the castle grounds, I meet Fran Caine and Laura Gray, assistant events managers at Historic Environment Scotland (HES). Sporting sunglasses and huge grins, they explain that more than 700 visitors and an army of 40 re-enactors were welcomed to day one of the event.

“If you do your job right and prearrange everything, you can let the event play out 42 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

and watch visitors enjoy themselves,” explains Fran, who has overall responsibility for this event. “You can get involved with the day’s activities, chat to visitors and enjoy the shows while keeping an eye on schedule timing.”

With the mercury already rising past 20 degrees on this late summer day, today’s numbers are predicted to be even higher.

After presenting me with my red events team jacket – resurrecting childhood memories of Butlin’s holidays – Fran leads me on a tour of the castle.

10.45AM Built on a rocky promontory by Sir George Crichton in the 1440s, the imposing Blackness Castle is often described as ‘the ship that never sailed’. Seized by James II a few years after its completion, it remained in Crown ownership, primarily as a garrison fortress and state prison, becoming a munitions depot in the 1870s.

PROTÉGÉ JONATHAN McINTOSH learns how to get stuck in with a pike

MENTOR LAURA GRAY works out the logistics of a successful event

MENTOR FRAN CAINE takes visitors to another historical dimension

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 43

BEHIND THE SCENES

THREE OF THE BEST

Fran Caine reveals the events that most inspire him

1. SPECTACULAR JOUSTING Linlithgow Palace Our most popular event, and a fixture in our annual calendar. In 2016, it attracted a record-breaking 12,000 visitors over the course of the weekend – our busiest ever single weekend event.

Mel Secker, ensign of the Scottish 94th Regiment of Foot, heralds the Siege of the Forth event

2. CELEBRATION OF THE CENTURIES Fort George Our largest-scale event, featuring more than 200 performers, Spitfire aerial displays, and over 1,000 years of history.

This year’s event, called Amazing Ages!, will be equally spectacular.

3. THE ROCK OF AGES Dumbarton Castle Our second multi-period event and the only one that takes place in the west of Scotland. This event showcases 1,000 years of Scottish history in the west under the shadow of Dumbarton Rock.

44 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

As we walk along the battlements, we have unparalleled views of the Forth Bridges and Hopetoun House. On the castle grounds below, the living history camps begin to stir following a second night of camping. Filling the air is the aroma of breakfast – possibly a tonic to the previous evening’s refreshments.

“The living history camps create a totally immersive experience for audiences,” says Fran. “Visitors can talk to the re-enactors and get involved in activities as they pass by.”

After a brief glimpse of the great hall, we return to the castle grounds to learn more about today’s event.

11.15AM At least a year’s worth of planning goes into every event held at a Historic Scotland property, and this weekend is no exception. Siege on the Forth is the first multi-period event of its size at Blackness Castle since 2012, so the pressure is on. Fran explains how he and the team approach such a challenge.

“It took us roughly six hours on Friday to set everything up,” he says. “The performers do their own constructions

At least a year’s worth of planning goes into every event at our sites while the events team organises the parking, catering and craft tents. At every event I set up, the weather tends to be like this. Maybe it’s the sunglasses…”

11.45AM With the event soon to be declared open, I am charged with turning on the arena’s sound system, rounding up the re-enactors and providing the PA, Hugh Robertson, with his microphone.

Working his magic, Hugh introduces the crowds to Fran, Laura and me as the go-to people for all their event-based needs.

12PM Bringing history to life will be re-enactors from Medieval Realm, Erskine’s Regiment and the 94th Regiment of Foot. Erskine’s Regiment kick off the day with a serious bang. I stand guard at the arena entrance as they prepare to fire on the Medieval Realm

BEHIND THE SCENES

Fran and Jonathan contemplate military manoeuvres at Blackness Castle, and, below, re-enactors rally before the skirmish

re-enactors hiding in the castle’s spur, echoing Oliver Cromwell’s relentless onslaught on Blackness Castle in 1651.

“Even if you expect it to happen, the cannon fire always makes you jump,” says Fran. I struggle to believe this given the cannon’s diminutive size but, as Fran warned, its bang causes me to start.

12.15PM Medieval Realm showcases fashions spanning early to high medieval periods, including clergymen’s robes and high-society dresses. I am struggling with the heat in my events jacket so my sympathies are with the armoured knight.

12.45PM According to Fran, the best way to judge an event’s success is by immersing yourself in its activities, so I leave my arena duties to explore the Medieval, Covenanter and Napoleonic camps. The detail on show is incredible.

Medieval Realm’s tents are luxurious and I grimace at the torturer’s grisly tools, which include scalpels and saws.

Erskine’s Regiment prepare their muskets for battle while the 94th Regiment of Foot impress with their bright uniforms.

As well as rangers’ tours of the castle grounds and nearby shores, the Inner Forth Landscape Initiative is leading bird watching and nature walks throughout the day. I build Lego castles at the Bricks 4 Kids tent before trying soap carving and stone masonry.

“Immersive history helps visitors engage with the past while having fun, which is crucial when interpreting a site,” says Fran. “It’s great working with such wide-spanning groups because everyone has a passion for showcasing history in the most exciting way.”

1.30PM I head back to the arena to watch Medieval Realm recruit young, would-be warriors to serve under King James III. Scores of children armed with foam longswords rush the medieval warriors – perfect lunchtime viewing. We are halfway through the day and the event is already a success.

“Hosting events at historical sites is quite complex and we have to find solutions to overcome the constraints,” says Laura. “Even the placement of the toilets may seem insignificant, but things

like this are crucial. We have to implement car park routes and ensure access for those with mobility issues.”

1.45PM Erskine’s Regiment return to the arena brandishing their muskets. I’m losing count of how many times I’m asked where the bathroom is and, after pointing a group in the right direction, another visitor informs me that she’s seen a bat within the main tower. Clearly my jacket is helping me look the part.

2PM I stop to talk to Harry Brechin, the leader of Medieval Realm, after witnessing his impressive command of fledgling warriors earlier in the day.

Having been on site since 2.30pm on Friday, he discusses how the events team makes the lives of re-enactors easier.

“We’ve been doing events with this team for about eight years,” he says.

“I talk with Fran quite a bit about what he wants visitors to get from events, their themes and what our performances can bring. The events team are vital to helping us plan the practicalities of our camps.”

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 45

BEHIND THE SCENES

Jonathan grins and bears an 8ft pike during a mock 17th-century battle and, below, re-enactors suffer at the hands of child warriors wielding foam swords

2.45PM Erskine’s Regiment re-enactors tell the story of the siege of Blackness Castle in 1651. Following the defeat of the Scots navy at North Queensferry, Oliver Cromwell anchored English ships outside the castle and began his bombardment on 29 March. General Monck and the English army launched their assault on the

DEFENDER OF THE REALM

Blackness Castle served as a garrison long after most Scottish castles ceased to serve any useful military function

46 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

I pray no one spots my feeble attempts at being a fearsome warrior landward side a day later. The garrison surrendered on 1 April.

3.15PM The red uniforms of the 94th Regiment of Foot dazzle in the sunshine as they take the audience to the time of King George and the Napoleonic campaigns. Large crowds enjoy the final event and I ask Laura why today has been so popular. “From gunfights and crafting, to fashion and the living history camps, there’s something for everyone,” she says.

3.45PM With the day’s explosive finale imminent, Fran and I lead members of the 94th Regiment of Foot and Erskine’s Regiment to the top of the castle’s spur as they prepare for a tense gunfight against the invaders below. As the audience cheer,

1567–1573 During the war between the supporters of James VI and Mary Queen of Scots, Blackness Castle held out in support of Mary

1691 The castle was rearmed by Charles II in 1660. Thirty years later, its prisons were full of those who had resisted the accession of Protestants William and Mary

gunpowder smoke fills the air, signalling the end of the siege. For the events team, though, there is still plenty of work to do.

4.15PM Fran and Laura must ensure all camps and tents are dismantled and taken off site safely. I help Laura with the sound system before joining Fran to strip the arena. Packing up can take up to three hours, but with weekend visitor figures confirmed at 2,130, spirits are high.

“When events go as well as this, that’s when I really love my job because you can see people having fun and becoming really immersed in history,” says Fran.

4.45PM As I hang up my red jacket, I reflect on my day. The passion the events team have for interpreting history in fresh and engaging ways has been infectious and I leave Blackness Castle with a deeper appreciation of their dedication.

Siege on the Forth returns on Saturday 2 and Sunday 3 September 2017. For more information visit historicenvironment.scot/events

1651 Cromwell bombarded the castle from land and sea.

The garrison surrendered after 24 hours and the castle was left in ruins

1850 Coastal batteries were built along the Forth coast and on Inchkeith island in response to the threat of invasion by Napoleon III. Blackness was converted into an ammunition depot serving them

SHUTTERSTOCK

2.15 PM Suddenly my name booms over the sound system. Hugh’s microphone is giving up, so I return to the arena with spare batteries in time for Erskine’s Regiment’s pike drill. The pikemen are put through their paces before the commander scouts the audience for new recruits.

Feeling brave, I enter the arena, where I am handed one of the smaller pikes. I feel quietly confident wielding the weapon, but my smugness is short-lived as I am handed an 8ft pike. I stumble my way through the routine and almost hit the soldier next to me. We finally put down our weapons and I sneak out of the arena praying no one spotted my feeble attempts at being a fearsome warrior.

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SHOPPING

Highland romance JAMIE AND CLAIRE MUG Raise a cuppa to Outlander’s heroes £8.50

Take home a little Jacobite adventure

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Members receive a 20% discount by using the code MEMBER1016 at the checkout

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Based on the novels by Diana Gabaldon, the drama follows Claire Randall, a 48 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

combat nurse transported from 1943 to 1743, where she encounters civil war and Jamie Fraser, a passionate Scottish soldier.

The drama is shot on location at some of the best-loved Historic Scotland properties, from Blackness Castle to Linlithgow Palace.

Doune Castle stands in as the fictional Castle Leoch, home to Jamie’s uncle, of the MacKenzie clan.

To take home a little piece of Outlander, find our official collection at Doune Castle and our online shop.

Visit historicenvironment.scot/shop

L IA N T EC OU SP C IS D

FRIENDS AND FAMILY MEMBERSHIP OFFER

I

f you enjoy your Historic Scotland membership, now is the time to tell your friends and family about it. They can have great days out all year round, and our Member Get Member scheme means they will save 20% on their membership fee when they join. Paying by Direct Debit is great value too

and, with 20% off the annual cost, a concession membership is only £2.50 a month.

MEMBER GET MEMBER SCHEME There are two ways to take advantage of the Member Get Member scheme: l Ask your friend or family

member to call 0131 668 8999. Tell them to quote your membership number and mention the Member Get Member offer. We can then process their discounted-rate membership over the phone. l Go to any staffed Historic Scotland properties with your

friend or family member and show your membership card.

Your friend can sign up at the discounted rate.

Terms and conditions apply. For new annual membership only. Not available for renewals or life membership. For details visit historicenvironment.scot/member

FIVE REASONS TO BECOME A MEMBER

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Free entry to more than 70 of Scotland’s top paid-for heritage attractions

A personal copy of Historic Scotland magazine posted out four times a year direct to your door

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EVENTS A RANGE OF EXCITING ACTIVITIES ACROSS SCOTLAND

KEEP UP TO DATE Pick up your events guide at any of our properties or visit historicenvironment.scot/events DAYTIME EVENTS ARE FREE TO MEMBERS, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

MARCH!JUNE

SPRING INTO ACTION

With the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology in full swing, we marvel at the skills of jousting knights and learn about bygone battles at exciting events nationwide KEEP UP TO DATE WITH ALL OUR ACTIVITIES AT HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT/EVENTS

50 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

Toilets Restaurant/café Picnic area Reasonable wheelchair access Dogs not permitted

Gift shop Parking

Lances at the ready at Linlithgow Palace

Enjoy traditional music and more at Fort George

HIGHLIGHTS FOR THE YEAR AHEAD

DUMBARTON CASTLE

Sat 10–Sun 11 Jun; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/rock Join us in the shadow of the rock and watch our fearless warriors in thrilling clashes. Learn about battles and bravery from 2,000 years of west-coast history, find out how to make a bow or forge armour in the bustling encampments and experience life through the ages.

SPECTACULAR JOUSTING LINLITHGOW PALACE

Sat 1–Sun 2 Jul; 12.30–4.30pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/ jousting Step back into medieval times and cheer on your favourite chivalric knights astride their noble steeds as they put on an almighty display of courage and skill. Meet the knights, try your hand at hobbyhorse jousting and wander through the camps on the Peel to learn about life from the knights and their retinues.

SPECTACULAR JOUSTING CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE

Sat 29–Sun 30 Jul;

12.30-4.30pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/ knights Hear the thunder of hooves and clashing of lances as we welcome the annual jousting tournament at the medieval stronghold on the Solway shore. Watch as the noble knights battle it out to be crowned champion, wander through the medieval encampments, meet the retinues and join in the fun.

AMAZING AGES! FORT GEORGE

Sat 12–Sun 13 Aug; 11am–5pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/ amazing Immerse yourself in the past as hundreds of performers tell Scotland’s story. Visit the encampments and view dramatic re-enactments. Try your hand at traditional skills, meet the archaeologists and find out about the fascinating finds that help us piece together the puzzles of the past.

Celebrate Scottish culture with a programme of traditional music over the weekend featuring artists with strong Highland links. This new event is not to be missed.

VISITSCOTLAND / PAUL TOMKINS

THE ROCK OF AGES

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 51

MARCH

Colourful characters from the past at Stirling Castle

STANDING STONES OF STENNESS AND BARNHOUSE VILLAGE WALK STANDING STONES OF STENNESS

Every Wed, Mar–May; Mon, Wed and Fri, Jun; 10–11am 01856 841732 orkneyrangers@hes.scot Join the Ranger Service for a guided tour of our oldest stone circle and explore the fascinating links with the nearby Neolithic village of Barnhouse.

RING OF BRODGAR WALK RING OF BRODGAR

Every Thu, Mar–May; Jun daily; 1–2pm 01856 841732 orkney.rangers@hes.scot Explore the area around the Ring of Brodgar during our daily guided walk with a ranger and find out the special significance of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney.

APRIL

FLIGHTS INTO SCOTLAND’S PAST STIRLING CASTLE

Sat 1 Apr–Tue 31 Oct, 9.30am 01786 450000 stirlingcastle.gov.uk/events Kieran Baxter’s aerial photographs and visualisations offer a unique and transformative glimpse into Scotland’s historic monuments and landscapes, from Shetland to Galloway.

WATCH OUT, TOADS ABOUT HOLYROOD PARK

Sat 1 Apr; 8.30–10.30am Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Join the rangers for a walk up the High Road to Dunsapie, collecting the toads that got stranded on their way to the loch to spawn.

52 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

EGGS WILL ROLL

THE GREAT BIG HISTORY WEEKEND STIRLING CASTLE

Sat 1–Sun 2 Apr; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 stirlingcastle.gov.uk/ historyweekend A historical celebration not to be missed, this launches our event programme for the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology. Come to

our majestic castle and immerse yourself in a historical adventure. The weekend will be brimming with activities from virtual tours to meeting characters from our rich past.

EASTER EGGSPLORER TRAIL VARIOUS PROPERTIES

Fri 14–Mon 17 Apr; drop in throughout the day 0131 668 8885

WILD DAY OUT

ARTHUR’S SECRETS

HOLYROOD PARK

HOLYROOD PARK

Sat 1 Apr; 10am–4pm 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot

Tue 4 Apr and every following Tue until Aug; 1–3pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot

Enjoy a wild day out in our park with the RSPB and Historic Scotland. Learn more about the Royal Park’s wildlife and geology through walks and talks.

Join us on a guided walk to learn about the turbulent past of Arthur’s Seat, sculpted by fire and ice.

historicenvironment.scot/ eggsplorer Join our Easter trails at some of our most iconic properties. Can you find all the clues and complete the challenge? The trail takes place at Linlithgow Palace, Craigmillar Castle, Fort George, Dryburgh Abbey, Caerlaverock Castle, Aberdour Abbey, Dumbarton Castle, Stanley Mills, Dirleton Castle and Skara Brae. Come along to see what you can discover.

LINLITHGOW HOLIDAY CLUB: TRICKY, TRACKS AND TRAILS LINLITHGOW PEEL

Tue 4 Apr; 10.30am–12.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Get closer to our local wildlife and learn how to read the clues they leave behind to discover who

Toilets

makes the loch their home. Suitable for children aged eight to 12.

HOLYROOD HOLIDAY CLUB: VOLCANOES, WILDLIFE AND ADVENTURE HOLYROOD PARK

Wed 5 and Wed 12 Apr; 10am–2pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Have some holiday fun with our rangers and investigate what makes the park special.

Suitable for children aged 10-14.

DY CAMERON: THE SPIRIT OF LINE

Gift shop Reasonable wheelchair access Restaurant/café Picnic areaRestaurant/café Toilets Gift shop Picnic area Dogs not Reasonable permitted wheelchair Parking access Year of Innovation, Architecture and Design Dogs not permitted Parking

around Linlithgow Loch and take a closer look at some of its lesserknown inhabitants. Suitable for children aged eight to 12.

PREHISTORIC POTTER SKARA BRAE

Fri 14–Tue 18 Apr; drop in throughout the day 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/events Celebrate World Heritage Day and meet a Neolithic potter before trying your hand at creating your own artefacts to take home.

WHISKY GALORE DALLAS DHU

Sat 29–Sun 30 Apr; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/events

DUFF HOUSE

Sat 8 Apr–Sun 30 July, 11am 01261 818 181 historicenvironment.scot/events Celebrate the work of one of Scotland’s most influential and prolific artists, Sir David Young Cameron (1865 – 1945). The Spirit of Line focuses on his renowned work as a draughtsman, printmaker and leading member of the international etching revival at the turn of the 20th century.

FOR FREEDOM ALONE ARBROATH ABBEY

and tranquillity, but in 1322 the scene was very different. Come along to find out more about life in the 14th century and this significant year in the history of the abbey.

In Victorian Scotland, illicit stills peppered the Highlands. Join the excise man on his inspections.

MAY

MOSSTROOPER! DIRLETON CASTLE

Sat 6–Sun 7 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/events In 1650, Oliver Cromwell laid siege to Dirleton Castle. Inside were a band of marauding Covenanters – or mosstroopers – who had been disrupting supply lines after the

An interactive display at Stanley Mills

Battle of Dunbar. Come along and learn more about this side of Dirleton’s rich history.

SEASHORE FORAGE

COTTON AND STANLEY $ NATIONAL MILLS WEEKEND STANLEY MILLS

Sat 13–Sun 14 May; 12-4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/events Explore life in the mill during the Victorian era with costumed performances, craft activities and more.

BLACKNESS CASTLE

Sat 13 May; 1–3.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Explore the shore with Anna Canning from Floramedica and find out about some of the ancient natural remedies to be found on Blackness beach.

DRYBURGH 1322 DRYBURGH ABBEY

Sat 13–Sun 14 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/events The ruins of this beautiful borders abbey are known for their peace

Sat 8–Sun 9 Apr; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/events

WILD OATS AT NEW ABBEY $ NATIONAL MILLS WEEKEND NEW ABBEY CORN MILL

Sat 13–Sun 14 May; 10am-4.30pm historicenvironment.scot/events Join us to see the mill in action and learn more during a guided tour about how oatmeal was made.

CHRONICLE OF MELROSE MELROSE ABBEY

Sat 20 May; 11am-4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/events Learn about the Chronicle of Melrose written at the abbey during the 12th century. Take part in our illuminated letter activity and try to create writing as beautiful as the lettering in the chronicle.

Experience life in the Scottish Wars of Independence and find out about the events that led to the creation of the Declaration of Arbroath, one of the most famous documents in Scottish history.

TRADERS AND NORSEMEN DUNSTAFFNAGE CASTLE

LINLITHGOW HOLIDAY CLUB: LOCH LIFE

Sat 27–Sun 28 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/events

GEOFF WILLIAMS

LINLITHGOW PEEL

Tue 11 Apr; 10.30am–12.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Take a glimpse of the life in and

Whisky business at Dallas Dhu

It’s the 11th century and large parts of Scotland are under the control of Vikings. Come along to find out more about this little-known chapter in Scottish and Norse history.

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 53

Have you noticed the older you get the more light you need to read?

By the time you reach 60 your eyes need 3 TIMES as much light to see clearly as they did when you were 20.

OPENING 18 MAY 2017 Scotland is getting a new cultural landmark!

Come and explore the remarkable royal history and industrial heritage of Dunfermline, one of Scotland’s ancient capitals, as it is brought to life in this spectacular new museum and visitor attraction.

Designed by award-winning Richard Murphy Architects and linking superbly with the world’s first Carnegie Library, this impressive building provides experiences for everyone to enjoy including: the new museum, exhibition galleries, a local studies Reading Room, a modern children’s library and a mezzanine café with stunning views over the landscaped garden to Dunfermline Abbey (burial place of Robert The Bruce) and the Heritage Quarter.

ADMISSION FREE Open Daily (times vary see website for details)

www.onfife.com/onatdclg 1–7 Abbot Street, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7NL T 01383 602365 E dclg@onfife.com www.facebook.com/ONatDCLG Twitter @ONatDCLG Instagram @dclandg

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Toilets

Gift shop Reasonable wheelchair access Restaurant/café Picnic areaRestaurant/café Toilets Gift shop Picnic area Dogs not Reasonable permitted wheelchair Parking access Year of Innovation, Architecture and Design Dogs not permitted Parking

LINDSAY’S LEGACY

Take part in a city wide bioblitz centred around Duddingston and Holyrood Park. Find out what crawls, hops, wriggles, runs and grows in all corners of our capital.

EDZELL CASTLE

Sat 27–Sun 28 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/ events

JANE EYRE

Join the covenanting army as they are put through their paces in the beautiful surroundings of the castle.

STIRLING CASTLE

HIGH STEWARDS OF SCOTLAND DUNDONALD CASTLE

Sun 28 May; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/ events Explore the castle that has its roots firmly in the Stewart royal dynasty and find out more about this powerful family.

JUNE

D%DAY FORT GEORGE

Fri 2, Sat 3 and Sun 4 Jun; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885 historicenvironment.scot/events On the anniversary weekend of D-Day, meet World War II soldiers who will teach you about the important role the fort and the surrounding landscape played in the landings.

ARMS AND ARMOUR ABERDOUR CASTLE

Sat 3–Sun 4 Jun; 12–4pm 0131 668 8885

Meet 14th-century soldiers at Aberdour Castle

historicenvironment.scot/ events

0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot

Discover what life was like for soldiers in the 14th century and admire their impressive plate armour.

Join us for a challenging guided walk to learn about the turbulent past of Arthur’s Seat, created by fire and ice.

WILDFLOWER WANDER

ARTHUR’S AMBLE

HOLYROOD PARK

Sat 3 Jun; 1–3pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot Join a ranger on a guided walk to learn more about the flowers and plants of Holyrood Park.

ARTHUR’S ADVENTURE

HOLYROOD PARK

Wed 7, 14, 21 and 28 Jun; 1–2.30pm Booking essential 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot A gentle guided walk around Hunter’s Bog and St Margaret’s Loch to learn more about Arthur’s Seat.

BIOBLITZ

HOLYROOD PARK

HOLYROOD PARK

Mon 5, 12, 19 and 26 Jun; 1–4pm Booking essential

Sat 17 June, dawn till dusk 0131 652 8150 rangers@hes.scot

Learn from our archaeologists at a number of sites

Sat 17 Jun; 7.30pm Adult £15, concession £13, child £10, family (two adults, two children) £44 – 10% members’ discount 0131 668 8885 Tickets available from historicenvironment.scot/ member Chapterhouse Theatre Company presents the tale of a woman whose independence and bravery shaped her life. Orphaned in childhood, Jane endures loss, poverty and a bitter betrayal before finding the strength to follow her heart.

TWO HOUSES AND A CASTLE BLACKNESS CASTLE

Sun 18 Jun; 10am–3pm Booking essential £6 per person – buy tickets from Hopetoun Rangers Service 0131 319 3956 rangers@hopetoun.co.uk Explore the links between three of West Lothian’s most historic sites with a guided walk between Hopetoun, Blackness Castle and the House of the Binns.

UNEARTH THE PAST

ARCHAEOLOGY INSIGHT TOURS VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Our archaeologists across Scotland are working hard on a wide range of activities to celebrate this Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology.

From tours and talks to drop-in sessions detailing the processes behind archaeological

excavations, discover more about the fascinating finds that further our understanding of our properties and their rich history.

Most tours are included in the admission price but booking is recommended.

Keep up to date at historicenvironment. scot/archaeology

HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 55

GUESS THE YEAR WORK OUT THE MYSTERY YEAR AND WIN

WIN

HOW TO ENTER If you can identify the correct year from the options below, visit historicenvironment.scot/ guesstheyear or post the answer with your name, membership number and address to Guess the Year, Historic Scotland magazine, Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH by Friday 7 April. Visit historicenvironment. scot/member for terms and conditions.

WINNING PRIZE The winning entrant will receive a hamper from Scottish Hampers (scottishhampers.co.uk) containing a bottle of Bordeaux, Scottish cheese, crackers and flameroasted coffee, among other treats.

The competition is open only to members aged 18 or over.

JAMES VI OF SCOTLAND This July marks the anniversary of James VI being crowned King of Scotland at Stirling Castle. This work by the painter and goldsmith Rowland Lockey, after a portrait by Arnold van Bronckorst, shows the young king wearing a buff doublet and black hat with feathers, carrying a falcon on his left wrist.

MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS GAVE BIRTH TO JAMES IN THE ROYAL PALACE OF EDINBURGH CASTLE. SHE WAS FORCED TO ABDICATE IN FAVOUR OF HER INFANT SON, WHO LATER BECAME KING OF ENGLAND AND IRELAND

GUESS THE YEAR WINNERS The winter issue’s answer was: James Watt received his patent for the condenser that helped power the industrial revolution in 1769. Congratulations to Mr S Haigh from Livingston. The autumn issue’s answer was: Mary Stuart was crowned Queen of Scots in 1543.

Congratulations to Ms A Henderson from Edinburgh 56 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES

ANSWER THIS QUESTION In which year did James succeed his mother, Mary Queen of Scots, as monarch of Scotland? a) 1557 b) 1567 c) 1577

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